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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月20日
Dummer. ゛☀
Disocactus is a genus of epiphytic cacti in the tribe Hylocereeae found in Central America, the Caribbean and northern South America. It should not be confused with Discocactus, which is a different genus. Species of Disocactus grow in tropical regions either on trees as epiphytes or on rocks as lithophytes. They have two distinct growth habits. Species such as D. phyllanthoides have stems which are round at the base but then become flattened and leaf-like. Other species, such as D. flagelliformis have stems which are round throughout their length. Many of the cultivated plants known as Epiphyllum hybrids or just Epiphyllums are derived from crosses between species of Disocactus (rather than Epiphyllum) and other genera in the Hylocereeae. [图片]Growing Conditions Light: Like all cacti, give them lots of direct sunlight, especially during the summer. Water: During the growing period the plants need frequent watering; from October to March and waterings should be rather abundant, so that the soil becomes completely soaked, but let dry between watering. Keep relatively dry in winter or when night temperatures remain below 10° C. Soil: Well-drained soil is best, and most Disocactus perform well in a soil that contains some organic material. [图片]Propagation Disocactus can be reproduced both by seeds and cuttings. [图片]Grower’s Tips Disocactus should be grown in a rich but still well draining soil. They should be watered regularly and fertilized as well. This is essential for good growth and flowering. Disocactus dislike extreme heat and cold, so they are best green-housed during the depth of winter and heat of summer in hot dry climates. They also prefer shade to sun, and like a little extra humidity in the air. Flowering in spring and summer the flower color varies from white, yellow red or purple depending on species.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月20日
Dummer. ゛☀
Orostachys is an Asian genus of monocarpic, rosette-forming succulents, similar in appearance to Echeveria, and Sempervivum, but it looks most similar to Aeonium. One of the major visible differences between Aeonium and Orostachys is that each leaf is tipped with a spine. It is a fast-growing succulent, with grey or green leaves forming small, globular rosettes. The small bell-shaped flowers are usually white or pink and grow densely packed on a conical inflorescense (which are really quite amazing to see, up to 12 inches (30 cm) tall). Natively, the plant lives in Korea, China, Mongolia, and Northern Japan. Some species show amazing symmetry of the rosette. Orostachys spinosa is of note, as the leaf pattern follows a Fibonacci sequence. [图片]Growing Conditions As with most similar genera of Crassulaceae, Orostachys survive in fairly poor soil, so long as it is well draining. This genera is very cold-hardy and can survive temperatures to -30° F (-34° C). Allow soil to dry to the touch between waterings, and avoid getting water on the rosettes. Orostachys requires some bright light. This plant doesn’t tolerate high humidity well. Orostachys grows actively in spring and summer. Propagation Orostachys self-propagates through offshoots, and given time one plant will form a dense mat of many. Propagation is primarily through offset separation. To separate an offset, remove soil from the base of the offset to find the stolon (thick root which attaches the pup to the mother plant). It is best to use an offset which has already established some roots of its own. Cut the stolon close to the pup (to discourage roots growing from the stolon). Place the offset into a small pot with well-draining, sandy soil. Do not water until new growth is noted. [图片]General Care Pruning: In general, this is a good plant to forget about. Leave it in a bright sunny location and water very sparingly. Water in the morning so as to prevent water from remaining on the leaves during the night. Remove any dead leaves from rosettes, as dead leaves invite rot and insects. When a rosette has flowered, it will die shortly. Problems: In the event of an unhealthy plant, the first thing to examine is your watering habits. The most common problem is root rot due to overwatering. If the soil is too wet, don’t hope it will safely dry out so long as you don’t water it for a while. Replace the soil immediately. [图片]One of the most common pests to houseplants is the mealybug, and your Orostachys may fall prey to this pest. However, due to the tightly packed leaves, more often than not the mealybugs will attack the roots. This makes them far less visible than mealybugs which attack leaf-stem junctions. The symptoms of a root mealybug infestation is slowed or stopped growth (though in winter this is a normal sign of dormancy). If this occurs without apparent cause, remove the plant from the pot and examine the roots. A white cottony substance on the roots and in the soil is a sure sign of mealybug infestation. Remove all soil and wash the roots gently. Remove any roots which appear damaged with a sharp sterile knife or scissors. Let them dry very throroughly before replanting.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月20日
Dummer. ゛☀
Are you one of those people who hangs his head in shame whenever we tout succulents as the easiest plants to grow? You’re not alone, trust me. Succulents, plants adapted to survive long periods with very little water, play by their own rule book. Here are some tips to help you keep your babies alive. [图片]1. Give Them Breathing Room While there are a few succulent types that do well indoors (including Aloe and Kalanchoe), the vast majority of these plants hail from warm, arid climates and depend on good air circulation to breathe. So while that succulent terrarium looks adorable, forget about it. You’ll have way more luck keeping your plants outdoors, exposed to the elements. 2. Provide Some Shade Despite widespread belief, most succulents do not thrive if blasted with the hottest temps and the fullest sun exposure. While they appreciate a lot of light (and very few survive in full shade), most succulents need sun protection, especially if the temperature hits the 90-degree-mark, or if they’re small. Varieties that are solid green, pale, or variegated are most in danger of sun burn. If you are planning to blast your plants with the brightest sun possible, opt for plants that are red, gray, blue, or covered densely with spines (which help to reflect the sun’s rays). 3. Start with the Right Soil Use a fast-draining cactus mix. Or, if you’re of the DIY persuasion, amend a traditional potting soil with coarse perlite, crushed lava, or pumice. A good recipe is one part amendment and four parts potting mix. 4. Low-water isn’t No-water Perhaps you’ve killed your succulents by overwatering them (far more common than under-watering) which causes rot. But maybe you’ve already gotten the memo, are diligently dehydrating your plants, and wonder why they are dying. Well, newsflash—they need some water. Succulents like it when soil approaches dry before being watered. But what does this mean, you ask? It means you’ll likely be a-ok if, during dry times, if you water small pots about once a week and large pots about every two weeks. [图片]5. Include Drainage Remember—succulent roots hate excess water. Be sure there’s drainage in your container. Ok, ok—you’ve caught me in a lie. We sometimes create pretty centerpieces in pots with no drainage. But listen—you’ve got to water these compositions especially lightly. And you have to follow all of the other rules. 6. Succulents Need Food, Too A once-yearly feeding is enough. Use any well-balanced organic fertilizer, cut the dose in half, and feed at the beginning of the plant’s growing season for best results. 7. Rethink Propagation While you might be accustomed to plucking a stem of your favorite geranium, rosemary bush, or houseplant and dunking it in water to watch roots grow, that won’t work for propagating succulents. You can actually practice the exact opposite method. When you’ve got a plant you like, pluck a stem and let it dry out in the shade for at least 3 days. This process, known as healing, helps form a callus, preventing rot. Place your new stem in the soil mix mentioned above, and you should be good to go. [图片]8. Beware of Frost While some succulents, including certain types of Sedum and Sempervivum, can withstand freezing temps, most cannot. When in doubt, assume that any drop below freezing will call damage or death to your plant. The easiest solution for frost protection is to keep plants in containers that are light enough to move indoors or under awnings when a cold snap is predicted. Also, unlike the rest of your garden, succulents actually have a greater chance of survival if they’re dry before a cold snap, not wet.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月20日
Dummer. ゛☀
Succulents are popular plants in both containers and in the landscape—and for good reason. They are low maintenance, drought-tolerant and super easy to maintain. Even “brown thumb” types can keep a succulent alive. Succulents are also popular because they are so beautiful in their own surreal way. Succulents may come from all over the world, but most of them look like they come from outer space—or from deep beneath the sea. Their strong, architectural forms, gorgeous colors and intriguing textures will bring out your inner artist–and their seemingly infinite variety will tempt you to become a collector. Very few people can stop after just one succulent! [图片]Soil All succulents require excellent soil drainage—this means the water should run through the pot fast, so the plant’s roots don’t get waterlogged. Succulents can die from being planted in ordinary potting soil. When potting succulents, use a bagged soil labeled as being especially for Cacti and Succulents—this is easily found at most nurseries. If you want to mix your own soil, you will find many recipes available in books and on the Internet, and will have to decide which one works best for you. Some of the most common recommendations are mixing potting soil 1:1 with perlite. You could also mix ordinary potting soil 1:1 with sharp sand (also called builder’s sand). Or you could try 2 parts potting soil to 1 part perlite to 1 part tiny gravel. If you squeeze a handful of moist soil in your fist and let it go, it should not hold shape but fall apart. [图片]Water Succulents are adapted to survive in harsh, dry conditions by storing water in their flesh. However, this doesn’t mean that they don’t like water when they can get it. (They’re a little like camels in this way!) The one major tip for growing succulents is simply that they don’t like being soggy. You are far more likely to kill your succulent by overwatering it than by under-watering it. It’s important that you let the soil in the pot dry out a little between waterings. In general you’d want to give your plants just enough water to keep their leaves plump, and no more. It’s hard to generalize, but this may mean giving potted plants a drink once every week or so, depending on conditions. A pot on a hot patio may appreciate more water than one kept indoors. A small pot dries out faster than a big pot. Plants need more water in summer than in winter. Touch the soil to find out if it’s dry or not. Succulents in the ground will want water every two weeks or so, again, depending on conditions. Remember it’s better to let them get a little dehydrated than to overwater them. When you water, water until the water soaks through and comes out the bottom of the pot. It’s important to have fast draining soil and drainage at the bottom of the pot so the bottom of the pot doesn’t get waterlogged. Signs of over-watering: Leaves become squishy and change color, becoming paler, even white, or perhaps brown. If you lift the plant out of its pot you will see rot in the roots. To rescue the situation, cut off the healthiest looking parts, and repot them in dryer soil. Signs of under watering: When stressed for water, succulents begin to use the water in their leaves and stems, giving them a thin, wrinkled appearance. This is not as serious as the rot from overwatering. They will plump up again after a good watering. They are amazingly resilient—but they’re not indestructible, and if they go too long without water, they will drop all their leaves. Note: Some succulents go dormant during portions of the year and do not want to be watered during this time. Succulents, like Dudleyas go dormant in the summer, growing only in winter, in conjunction with the rains. They’d rather not be watered in the summer. [图片]Light Succulents evolved in dry climates, but shouldn’t be confused with tough desert cactus. Generally speaking, full sun outdoors is okay for Aloes and Agaves, but Echeverias (many of the rose or cabbage shaped succulents are Echeverias) prefer a bit of shade, or dappled sunlight. Most succulents appreciate some shade during the hottest part of the day. You can keep potted succulents indoors, but they don’t do well in dim light situations. Try to find a sunny window for them, and give them “sun vacations” outdoors. Signs a plant is getting too much light: The leaves may scorch, have brown, black or white patches, or just look burnt or withered. Green succulents may turn pretty shades of red and yellow when stressed by bright sun. This is attractive, but also a signal that you should be paying close attention to make sure they don’t get too stressed. Consider moving the pot to a less sunny location. Sign a plant is getting too little light: A plant desperate for sun will reach or lean toward the light. Sometimes it will throw a lot of energy into elongating its stem to as if it would stretch all the way out the window to better light. This is what is called “getting leggy.” Legginess is a sure sign of light starvation. Leggy plants can be trimmed into a more attractive form and repotted, then moved somewhere brighter. Light deprived plants can also become just generally sickly, and will be more susceptible to insect infestation. If you do decide to move a pot to brighter light, particularly if you’re moving it from indoors to outdoors, give it some time to adjust. Let it spend its first couple of days outdoors in the shade, then in dappled sun. Moving it straight into full sun might shock the plant, and cause it to burn. [图片]Pests Succulents are pretty tough, but they can still have problems with insects and other pests: snails and mealy bugs are two common foes. [图片]Containers Succulents adapt well to many types of containers, from fancy ceramics to funky found art objects. They are shallow rooted as a rule, so can thrive in containers too shallow for regular plants. The one important rule for containers is that they should have drainage holes. It’s trendy these days to pop succulents into all sorts of containers, like canning jars or antique vases, but if the container does not have a drainage hole at the bottom, you will be at high risk for overwatering your plants. The good news is that you can make a drainage hole in almost anything with an electric drill — there are specialty drill bits different materials, including glass and ceramics. Ask at your local hardware store for a bit which will match your container. While you’re at the hardware store, buy some 3 in1 oil—use this on ceramic bits to keep them from smoking. Metal containers are perhaps the easiest to work with: you can make holes in tin cans and old metal containers with just a hammer and nail. If you decide to skip the drainage hole, water sparingly and hope for the best. In such cases, taller containers work better than shallow ones, because the water tends to gather in the low parts of the pot, so short-rooted succulents have some hope of keeping their feet dry if all the water sinks to the bottom of a deep pot. It’s also okay to treat your succulents more like cut flowers, and put together arrangements which are meant to be temporary—a table centerpiece, for instance. In these cases you don’t have to worry about drainage, or light, or anything else. [图片]Temperature Your outdoor plants should be fine down to 40°F (4.5°C) or a bit lower. Freezing temperatures can damage succulents, with the exception of certain Stonecrops and Sempervivums, which are cold tolerant. If you hear there is going to be a frost, bring your potted succulents inside, or into shelter, like a garage. In places with frosty winters succulents need to be potted up and moved to shelter from the entire winter.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月20日
Dummer. ゛☀
Portulaca is a genus of the flowering plant family Portulacaceae, comprising about 40-100 species found in the tropics and warm temperate regions. They are also known as Purslane, Sun Plant, Rose Moss and Wax Pink. Common Purslane (P. oleracea) is widely considered an edible plant, and in some areas an invasive type of weed. Purslane can be eaten raw or cooked, and lends itself to stir fry dishes. Members of the Portulaca genus are relatively easy to grow hardy or half hardy annuals that reach from 6 to 18 inches (15 to 45 cm) in height. They carry succulent leaves and bloom from summer to the second half of autumn and carry cup shaped flowers; these may be of yellow, red, pink or white. [图片]Growing Conditions Light: Full sunlight Water: During the growing period the plants need frequent watering, but let dry between watering. Portulaca does not like wet conditions and will rot in constantly wet soil. Soil: Well-drained soil is the best. Fertilizer: An application of a balanced slow release fertilize with minor elements every 6 months. [图片]General Care Portulaca plants tolerate many kinds of soil but prefer sandy, well-drained soil and love the full sunlight. These plants are excellent for high heat and drought tolerance, and will seed and spread themselves very well. Some control methods may be needed to keep Portulaca plants from becoming invasive to areas where they are not wanted. These wonderful plants do spread easily and very well. Portulaca species such as Purslane require no attention at all when growing and flowering; however you should remove them from the garden before Portulaca have chance to set seed as they may take over the garden. You do not need to water often for proper Portulaca care. The cylindrical foliage of the Portulaca plants retains moisture very well, thus, regular watering is not needed. When they are watered, just a light watering will do, as their root zone is very shallow. The seeds of Purslane and other Portulaca members should be sown on the soil surface following the last frost of spring. Ideally Purslane should be grown in a sunny part of the garden and Portulaca genus members thrive in hot areas. The soil that Purslane grows in should be sandy and poor with a pH of 5.5 to 7. [图片]If starting Purslane indoors then start about one and a half months in advance. You first need to imbibe Purslane seeds by placing within soil in a plastic bag and placing in the fridge for about 15 days. Once finished, place the soil /seeds in light and germinate at 70 to 86 degrees Fahrenheit (21 to 30 degrees Celsius). It typically takes about one to three weeks for Purslane seeds to germinate. Once ready transfer into the garden at from 6 to 24 inches (15 to 60 cm) apart (depending on the size of the Portulaca species). This should be done towards the end of spring.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月20日
Dummer. ゛☀
Conophytum are a group of miniature succulents prized by enthusiasts for their wide variety of forms, textures, and colors. Typically, they form clusters or grow in mats but some species are solitary. Bodies can be conical, oblong, or cylindrical, spotted or lined, velvety, warty, or windowed, and range in color from various shades of green and blue-green to brown and red. Some species are mistaken for Lithops. Anatomically, they are distinguished by conically united leaves and by their petals, which are fused into a basal tube, unlike most mesembs. Most conos flower in the autumn and display a rainbow range of colors. They can be divided into night-blooming, twilight-blooming, and day-blooming species. The flowers of some species are also scented. [图片]Growing Conditions Light: The Conophytum require a very bright environment and even a few hours of full sun, in cooler moments of the day to avoid sunburn. At the end of the dormant season the plants must gradually accustomed to the increase of brightness. Water: After they bloom in October/November mist every other week. When active growth resumes in late spring water about once per week until summer. Plants may go dormant in heat, water no more than every three weeks. During active growth, if leaves start to retract into soil or wrinkle, it needs watering. Soil: The types of soil suitable to this genus are various and different for each species because of the great diversity of different specimens; the common feature is, however, the high drainage capacity and good porosity. Fertilizer: Light feeders, may not need fertilizer for three years after potting or at all if you repot every two years. Fertilize at the beginning of the growth period and just before flowering. [图片]General Care Conophytums are usually grown in dish gardens where they spread slowly but make good ornamental plants for window gardening. They also do well in rockeries where they can be grown in crevices. The Conophytum vegetate during the winter season. They must then be kept dry during hot, gradually wet upon autumn arrival: the moisture stimulate the release of new root hairs and the plant will grow for the entire winter season, foliar issuing new pairs from inside the existing ones. Flowering usually occurs in autumn and the color of the flowers is extremely variable from species to species. The cultivation is quite easy, but care must be taken to avoid excess water and to prevent rot: the plants themselves communicate their water needings with a slight wrinkling of the epidermis. They do not particularly fear the cold weather and can resist also at temperatures of 23°F (-5°C), as long as the soil is completely dry and the temperature returns rapidly to rise. [图片]Propagation Propagation can be made from seed or by cuttings: seed germination is quite easy (see the germination rate of our seeds), but the young seedlings are very sensitive to humidity and need a special and constant care and constant to raise them correctly.
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玲儿
2017年09月20日
玲儿
リクニス・コロナリアの育て方・栽培方法 育て方のポイント 栽培環境・日当たり・置き場 日当たりと水はけのよい場所で育てます。耐寒性と耐暑性が強く、土質もあまり選ばず、乾燥にも耐えるので栽培は容易です。傾斜地や一段高いところなど乾燥しやすい場所でもよく育ちます。土の湿り気が多いところでは、レイズドベッドにするか、軽石などを混ぜて土壌改良を行ってから植えつけます。 本来は多年草ですが、梅雨期の長雨や日照不足、多湿で株が弱り、古株になるほど枯れやすくなるので、高温多湿が続くような地域では通常二年草扱いとします。春まき、秋まきいずれも開花は翌年となり、開花させるには冬に低温にあわせます。 [图片]水やり 庭植えではほとんど水やりの必要はありません。鉢植えでは、多湿に注意し、用土が乾いて葉が少ししおれるくらいになったら、たっぷりと水を与えます。 タネから苗を育てるときや、春の蕾ができる時期には十分な水分を必要とするので、しおれないようにしっかりと水やりをします。 肥料 庭植えではほとんど必要ありません。ただし、秋に少量施して冬までに株を大きくしておくと、翌年の花数がより多くなります。 鉢植えの場合、根詰まりや肥料切れを起こすと花数が少なくなるので、植え替えや植え直しを行うと同時に、秋と早春に肥料を施します。10月から11月に置き肥なら2～3回、液体肥料なら5～6回施し、3月から4月も同様に施します。 [图片]病気と害虫 病気：高温期の多肥多湿に注意すれば、ほとんど見られません。 害虫：ほとんど見られません。 用土（鉢植え） 市販の草花用培養土が利用できます。夏越しさせる場合は、できるだけ水はけがよくなるように、山砂や鹿沼土などを3割くらい混ぜると確実です。 植えつけ、 植え替え 植えつけ：適期は秋10月ごろですが、春に出回る開花苗を植えつけることもできます。 植え替え：古株ほど枯れやすく、タネまきやさし芽で株を更新していくのが確実です。夏越しができた株は、秋に涼しくなったら植え替え、株を若返らせます。 [图片]ふやし方 株分け：八重咲きでタネができない品種や、気に入った花色の株をふやしたいときに行います。秋が適期ですが、冷涼地では春にもできます。 さし芽：地際の芽をかき取ってさす方法と、伸びた茎の節を利用してさす方法があります。いずれも秋に行い、節をさす場合は、節に芽があるものを選んでさします。 タネまき：こぼれダネが自然に芽生えて育つほどで、花壇に直まきして育てることもできます。確実に苗をつくるには、春や秋にポットや育苗箱などにタネをまき、本葉4枚くらいで移植して育てます。秋のタネまきは遅れると翌年咲かず、開花がその次の年になるので、早めにまいて冬までにしっかりした苗にしておくことが大切です。 主な作業 花がら摘み：ほとんど放任でもよいくらい手のかからない花ですが、タネとりに必要な分だけ残して花がらを切り取っておくと、すっきりと見栄えもよく、株も長もちします。
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玲儿
2017年09月20日
玲儿
リクニス・コロナリアの基本情報 学名：Lychnis coronaria（Silene coronaria） 和名：スイセンノウ（酔仙翁）　　その他の名前：フランネルソウ、ローズキャンピオン 科名 / 属名：ナデシコ科 / センノウ属 特徴 リクニス・コロナリアは「フランネルソウ」とも呼ばれ、白い綿毛に覆われた、柔らかくて厚みのある葉が特徴です。花色は濃いローズのものがポピュラーで、花弁にもビロードのような質感があります。日本へは江戸末期に入りました。乾燥したやせ地でもよく育つ多年草で、性質も強いのですが、高温多湿の蒸れに弱く、環境条件によっては寿命が短くなるため二年草として扱うことがあります。しかし、タネがよく実り、場所によってはタネで自然にふえるほどタネからの栽培が容易です。 [图片]白い茎葉と赤い花とのコントラストが際立ち、すらりとした草姿で草丈も高く、枝分かれしながら次々と咲き続けるので、花壇に立体感や動きを出すのによい材料です。1株植えてあるだけでもアクセントになりますが、点々と散らせたり、まとめて植えたりするなど、さまざまに利用できます。草丈の低い草花と組み合わせてリズム感を表現したり、花壇後方の背景としたりするのもよいものです。品種に白花や桃花があるほか、個体によっても花色の濃淡に幅が見られます。 常緑性で、冬も観葉として利用できます。斑入り葉の品種もあります。 種類（原種、園芸品種） ‘アボッツウッド・ローズ Lychnis coronaria ‘Abbotswood Rose’ 花は濃紅色。 [图片]‘エンジェル・ブラッシュ’ Lychnis coronaria ‘Angel’s Blush’ 花は白に中心が桃色の2色咲き。 ‘ガーデナーズ・ワールド’ Lychnis coronaria ‘Gardener’s World’ 花は濃紅色の八重咲き。タネができないので、株を維持する場合は株分けかさし芽をする。 [图片]
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玲儿
2017年09月20日
玲儿
ラムズイヤーの育て方・栽培方法 育て方のポイント 栽培環境・日当たり・置き場 風通し、水はけのよい場所で育てます。日なたを好みますが、高温多湿は苦手なので、真夏はよく茂る木陰に植えるか、鉢植えであれば、夏は半日陰となる涼しい場所に移動させます。梅雨時期は鉢を雨の当たらない軒下などに移動させるとよいでしょう。酸性土壌を嫌うので、植えつけ前に苦土石灰を適量混ぜて耕します。 水やり 庭植えの場合、根がよく張ったらほとんど不要です。鉢植えの場合は、乾かし気味に管理し、土が乾いたらたっぷり与えます。 [图片]肥料 元肥として緩効性化成肥料を土に混ぜておきます。庭植えの場合、追肥は不要ですが、鉢植えには、3月下旬から5月の間に、液体肥料を施します。 病気と害虫 病気：根腐れ 病気ではありませんが、過湿による根腐れが出やすいので注意します。 害虫：アブラムシ 風通しが悪いときなど、アブラムシが発生することがあります。風通しをよくし、アブラムシを見つけたら速やかに駆除します。 用土（鉢植え） 水はけと通気性のよい土が適しています。市販の草花用培養土を利用するか、または赤玉土6、腐葉土3、軽石1の割合で配合したものを用いるとよいでしょう。 [图片]植えつけ、 植え替え 3月上旬から5月下旬か、9月中旬から10月下旬に行います。庭植えは3～4年くらいすると、株が混み合って蒸れやすくなるので、株分けを兼ねて植え替えを行います。鉢植え株も、鉢いっぱいになったら、株分けをして植え替えるとよいでしょう。 ふやし方 株分け、さし芽、タネまきでふやします。 株分け、さし芽：3月上旬から4月中旬か、9月中旬から10月下旬に、株分けやさし芽でふやします。株を掘り上げ、地下茎が分かれるところで、1～3株をつけて分割します。できるだけ新根をつけて分けるとよいのですが、切れてしまってもさし芽ができます。 タネまき：タネをまいてふやすこともできます。適期は春と秋です。 [图片]主な作業 花がら摘み：花が終わったら、花茎をつけ根から切り取ります。ドライフラワーにする場合は早めに切り、風通しのよい半日陰に吊るして乾かします。 特徴
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玲儿
2017年09月20日
玲儿
ラムズイヤーの基本情報 学名：Stachys byzantina 和名：ワタチョロギ　　 科名 / 属名：シソ科 / イヌゴマ属（スタキス属） 特徴 ラムズイヤーの白い毛で覆われた葉は、ぬいぐるみのように心地よく、柔らかな手触りで、lamb's ear（羊の耳）の名前にぴったりです。葉には、香りがあり、生葉や乾燥させた花をクラフトなどに利用できます。初夏に薄紫色の花を咲かせます。夏の高温多湿が苦手で、株元が蒸れて腐ることがしばしばありますが、環境さえ合えば、地表にマット状に広がります。混み合ってきた株は、株分けやさし芽で更新して、株が蒸れないようにしましょう。特に、花穂が上がる梅雨時期は、風通しが悪くなるので要注意です。 [图片]種類（原種、園芸品種） ‘シルキー・フリース’ Stachys byzantina ‘Silky Fleece’ 葉が小さく、花色が濃い。 ‘プリムローズ・ヘロン’ Stachys byzantina ‘Primrose Heron’ 基本種よりも葉の緑がやや濃い。性質が弱く、やや育てにくい。
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