文章
Miss Chen
2022年07月04日
IN THIS ARTICLE
Care
Types
Pruning
Propagating
Growing From Seed
Potting
Overwintering
Pests & Diseases
Bloom
Common Problems
Frequently Asked Questions
Creeping mazus (Mazus reptans) is a fast-spreading, semi-evergreen perennial that works well as a ground cover in USDA zones 5 to 8. In warmer climates, the dense, lush foliage remains green throughout the year, and it features clusters of beautiful little purple-blue flowers that blossom in late spring and summer. The tiny thumbnail-sized flowers form a dense mat and can be mowed in much the same way as turf grass.
Creeping mazus is usually planted from potted nursery starts or from root divisions in the spring. It is a fast-growing plant that will quickly fill in to create a uniform ground cover.
Common Name Creeping mazus
Botanical Name Mazus reptans or Mazus miquelii
Family Mazaceae
Plant Type Herbaceous perennial
Mature Size 2–3 in. tall, 6–12 in. wide
Sun Exposure Full, partial
Soil Type Moist, well drained
Soil pH Acidic to alkaline (5.5–8.0)
Bloom Time Summer
Flower Color White to blue-violet
Hardiness Zones 5–8 (USDA)
Native Area Central Asia (Himalayas)
Creeping Mazus Care
Creeping mazus prefers relatively moist fertile soil in a full-sun location, but it is an adaptable plant that tolerates almost any soil type and will grow adequately in partial shade. In shady conditions, it will grow more slowly with fewer flowers.
Light
Creeping mazus sees rapid growth in full sun or partial shade positions. In very hot regions, a location that is shaded during the peak of the afternoon is best.
Soil
Creeping mazus prefers fertile, moist, loamy soil, but it is a robust species that tolerates a variety of soil types. If the soil is too hard-packed, the delicate rooting system will struggle to become established. It grows equally well in acidic, neutral, and alkaline soils. With soils that are too dry, adding mulch will help with moisture retention.
Water
This plant prefers to remain moist but not constantly wet. Make sure it isn't exposed to over-watering, as standing water will cause root rot. Weekly watering, especially in hot and dry conditions will ensure your creeping mazus continues to flourish. If it stays dry too long, the foliage will begin to wilt and die.
Temperature and Humidity
Creeping mazus copes well across a wide range of temperatures and is reliably hardy in USDA zones 5 to 8. It prefers a warm and moist environment, and in warmer climates it is evergreen. In colder zones, the foliage may turn red and go dormant in the winter months. Hard frost may kill individual plants, though a colony usually fills in again when mild spring weather returns.
Fertilizer
You won't have to worry about feeding creeping mazus if it's planted in a rich and fertile soil. An annual light feeding of a slow-release variety in the spring, however, could promote better growth for plants that are in dry, poor-quality soil.
Types of Creeping Mazus
Mazus reptans has no widely available named cultivars—the species type is the one normally sold in the horticulture trade. However, there is a related species, Mazus miquelli, that is also sometimes known by the common name creeping mazus. However, M. miquelli, a native to Japan and China, is considered an invasive plant in the Northeast U.S., and it is rarely, if ever, deliberately used as a landscape plant.
Pruning
Although pruning is not required, creeping mazus responds well to shearing with a mower when used as a replacement for turf grass in ground-cover situations.
Propagating Creeping Mazus
Creeping mazus spreads naturally as its roaming stems root themselves in soil. It is an easy matter to dig up some of these offshoots and transplant them. Here's how:
In spring after an established plant is actively growing, use a sharp knife or trowel to separate an offshoot stem that has rooted itself and lift it free of the mother plant.
Immediately plant the offshoot in a new garden location and water it well. If planting with the intent of creating a new ground cover, space the plants 8 to 12 inches apart, as they will quickly spread to fill the space.
How to Grow Creeping Mazus From Seed
Creeping mazus spreads so quickly that it's generally planted via nursery seedling flats, with plants spaced 8 to 12 inches apart and then allowed to fill in to create a carpet of greenery. However, if you are covering large areas with creeping mazus, it is possible to plant from bulk seeds sown over the area, much the way lawn seed is sown. However, if you're seeding an area previously covered with grass, make sure to remove as much grass as possible, including the roots. This will give creeping mazus the best chance of thriving, as it can't outcompete the tenacious roots of turfgrasses.
Allow a decent amount of space between sown seeds, too. Remember, this plant has a fast-spreading, close-to-the-surface, sprawling root system. You don't want the area to become overcrowded, as this can impact growth.
Potting and Repotting Creeping Mazus
Although it's not a common way to grow creeping mazus, this plant can be grown in containers filled with standard potting mix. The low-growing trailing habit can make it a good "spiller" plant for the edges of a mixed container garden. A container of any type will do, provided it is well draining.
Overwintering
This plant generally requires no special winter preparation, though gardeners in colder zones may find that a layer of leaf mulch over the plants will prevent winter kill. Any covering should be raked off the plants as soon as the weather warms in the spring.
Common Pests and Plant Diseases
Creeping mazus is not a victim of any common serious pests or diseases, but it can be subject to damage from slugs and snails. These pests are best handled by removing them by hand, or with snail/slug baits placed in the garden.
How to Get Creeping Mazus to Bloom
It's rare for creeping mazus to withhold blooms during its normal flowering period, late spring though mid-summer. If it does not bloom adequately, it may be because it is not getting enough sunlight or water—both of which are necessary for profuse blooming. If both these cultural needs are adequate, then feeding the plant with balanced fertilizer may give the plants a needed nutritional boost.
An old, overgrown patch of creeping mazus may stop blooming because the plants become too crowded. In this case, rejuvenate the colony by digging up the plants, dividing the roots, and replanting the pieces 8 to 12 inches apart. The colony usually responds quickly with vigorous growth and ample flowering.
Common Problems With Creeping Mazus
There are very few cultural problems with creeping mazus if it's grown in its established hardiness range, but occasionally you may notice brown patches appearing in the otherwise uniform carpet of green. In the colder end of the hardiness range, this can be a symptom of winter kill caused by hard frost. Unless the frost is very hard and prolonged, winter kill usually corrects itself in the spring as surrounding plants fill in to replace dead patches.
Brown patches can also be caused by soil that is too dry. Creeping mazus plants like plenty of moisture, and may die back if allowed to become too dry during hot months.
FAQ
How is this plant best used in the landscape?
Creeping mazus is a popular aground cover alternative in locations that are too moist for turfgrass to grow well—such as the banks along streams or water gardens. It also works well to fill in gaps in between flagstones or walls, and it is a favored addition in rock gardens, where it helps reduce weed growth. This species also looks lovely dangling over the edges of hanging baskets or containers.
Is there a similar plant that works well in colder zones?
Scotch moss can be a good alternative to creeping mazus for zones 3 and 4. It is a good plant for moist areas, and it accepts a fair amount of foot traffic without incurring permanent damage.
How do I replace a turf grass lawn with creeping mazus?
Creeping mazus cannot simply be overseeded in a turf grass lawn, as turf grasses are considerably more aggressive and will win the rooting battle. If you do want to replace an area of turf grass, you must first kill off or remove all the grass. Turf grass can be removed with a sharp, flat shovel, but a more effective method is to kill it off with glyphosate herbicide before replanting with creeping mazus.
Care
Types
Pruning
Propagating
Growing From Seed
Potting
Overwintering
Pests & Diseases
Bloom
Common Problems
Frequently Asked Questions
Creeping mazus (Mazus reptans) is a fast-spreading, semi-evergreen perennial that works well as a ground cover in USDA zones 5 to 8. In warmer climates, the dense, lush foliage remains green throughout the year, and it features clusters of beautiful little purple-blue flowers that blossom in late spring and summer. The tiny thumbnail-sized flowers form a dense mat and can be mowed in much the same way as turf grass.
Creeping mazus is usually planted from potted nursery starts or from root divisions in the spring. It is a fast-growing plant that will quickly fill in to create a uniform ground cover.
Common Name Creeping mazus
Botanical Name Mazus reptans or Mazus miquelii
Family Mazaceae
Plant Type Herbaceous perennial
Mature Size 2–3 in. tall, 6–12 in. wide
Sun Exposure Full, partial
Soil Type Moist, well drained
Soil pH Acidic to alkaline (5.5–8.0)
Bloom Time Summer
Flower Color White to blue-violet
Hardiness Zones 5–8 (USDA)
Native Area Central Asia (Himalayas)
Creeping Mazus Care
Creeping mazus prefers relatively moist fertile soil in a full-sun location, but it is an adaptable plant that tolerates almost any soil type and will grow adequately in partial shade. In shady conditions, it will grow more slowly with fewer flowers.
Light
Creeping mazus sees rapid growth in full sun or partial shade positions. In very hot regions, a location that is shaded during the peak of the afternoon is best.
Soil
Creeping mazus prefers fertile, moist, loamy soil, but it is a robust species that tolerates a variety of soil types. If the soil is too hard-packed, the delicate rooting system will struggle to become established. It grows equally well in acidic, neutral, and alkaline soils. With soils that are too dry, adding mulch will help with moisture retention.
Water
This plant prefers to remain moist but not constantly wet. Make sure it isn't exposed to over-watering, as standing water will cause root rot. Weekly watering, especially in hot and dry conditions will ensure your creeping mazus continues to flourish. If it stays dry too long, the foliage will begin to wilt and die.
Temperature and Humidity
Creeping mazus copes well across a wide range of temperatures and is reliably hardy in USDA zones 5 to 8. It prefers a warm and moist environment, and in warmer climates it is evergreen. In colder zones, the foliage may turn red and go dormant in the winter months. Hard frost may kill individual plants, though a colony usually fills in again when mild spring weather returns.
Fertilizer
You won't have to worry about feeding creeping mazus if it's planted in a rich and fertile soil. An annual light feeding of a slow-release variety in the spring, however, could promote better growth for plants that are in dry, poor-quality soil.
Types of Creeping Mazus
Mazus reptans has no widely available named cultivars—the species type is the one normally sold in the horticulture trade. However, there is a related species, Mazus miquelli, that is also sometimes known by the common name creeping mazus. However, M. miquelli, a native to Japan and China, is considered an invasive plant in the Northeast U.S., and it is rarely, if ever, deliberately used as a landscape plant.
Pruning
Although pruning is not required, creeping mazus responds well to shearing with a mower when used as a replacement for turf grass in ground-cover situations.
Propagating Creeping Mazus
Creeping mazus spreads naturally as its roaming stems root themselves in soil. It is an easy matter to dig up some of these offshoots and transplant them. Here's how:
In spring after an established plant is actively growing, use a sharp knife or trowel to separate an offshoot stem that has rooted itself and lift it free of the mother plant.
Immediately plant the offshoot in a new garden location and water it well. If planting with the intent of creating a new ground cover, space the plants 8 to 12 inches apart, as they will quickly spread to fill the space.
How to Grow Creeping Mazus From Seed
Creeping mazus spreads so quickly that it's generally planted via nursery seedling flats, with plants spaced 8 to 12 inches apart and then allowed to fill in to create a carpet of greenery. However, if you are covering large areas with creeping mazus, it is possible to plant from bulk seeds sown over the area, much the way lawn seed is sown. However, if you're seeding an area previously covered with grass, make sure to remove as much grass as possible, including the roots. This will give creeping mazus the best chance of thriving, as it can't outcompete the tenacious roots of turfgrasses.
Allow a decent amount of space between sown seeds, too. Remember, this plant has a fast-spreading, close-to-the-surface, sprawling root system. You don't want the area to become overcrowded, as this can impact growth.
Potting and Repotting Creeping Mazus
Although it's not a common way to grow creeping mazus, this plant can be grown in containers filled with standard potting mix. The low-growing trailing habit can make it a good "spiller" plant for the edges of a mixed container garden. A container of any type will do, provided it is well draining.
Overwintering
This plant generally requires no special winter preparation, though gardeners in colder zones may find that a layer of leaf mulch over the plants will prevent winter kill. Any covering should be raked off the plants as soon as the weather warms in the spring.
Common Pests and Plant Diseases
Creeping mazus is not a victim of any common serious pests or diseases, but it can be subject to damage from slugs and snails. These pests are best handled by removing them by hand, or with snail/slug baits placed in the garden.
How to Get Creeping Mazus to Bloom
It's rare for creeping mazus to withhold blooms during its normal flowering period, late spring though mid-summer. If it does not bloom adequately, it may be because it is not getting enough sunlight or water—both of which are necessary for profuse blooming. If both these cultural needs are adequate, then feeding the plant with balanced fertilizer may give the plants a needed nutritional boost.
An old, overgrown patch of creeping mazus may stop blooming because the plants become too crowded. In this case, rejuvenate the colony by digging up the plants, dividing the roots, and replanting the pieces 8 to 12 inches apart. The colony usually responds quickly with vigorous growth and ample flowering.
Common Problems With Creeping Mazus
There are very few cultural problems with creeping mazus if it's grown in its established hardiness range, but occasionally you may notice brown patches appearing in the otherwise uniform carpet of green. In the colder end of the hardiness range, this can be a symptom of winter kill caused by hard frost. Unless the frost is very hard and prolonged, winter kill usually corrects itself in the spring as surrounding plants fill in to replace dead patches.
Brown patches can also be caused by soil that is too dry. Creeping mazus plants like plenty of moisture, and may die back if allowed to become too dry during hot months.
FAQ
How is this plant best used in the landscape?
Creeping mazus is a popular aground cover alternative in locations that are too moist for turfgrass to grow well—such as the banks along streams or water gardens. It also works well to fill in gaps in between flagstones or walls, and it is a favored addition in rock gardens, where it helps reduce weed growth. This species also looks lovely dangling over the edges of hanging baskets or containers.
Is there a similar plant that works well in colder zones?
Scotch moss can be a good alternative to creeping mazus for zones 3 and 4. It is a good plant for moist areas, and it accepts a fair amount of foot traffic without incurring permanent damage.
How do I replace a turf grass lawn with creeping mazus?
Creeping mazus cannot simply be overseeded in a turf grass lawn, as turf grasses are considerably more aggressive and will win the rooting battle. If you do want to replace an area of turf grass, you must first kill off or remove all the grass. Turf grass can be removed with a sharp, flat shovel, but a more effective method is to kill it off with glyphosate herbicide before replanting with creeping mazus.
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文章
Miss Chen
2022年06月21日
IN THIS ARTICLE
Care
Pruning
Propagating
Growing From Seed
Potting and Repotting
Overwintering
Bloom
Common Problems
Frequently Asked Questions
BACK TO TOP
Creeping speedwell is a spreading perennial ground cover plant adorned with dainty flowers. Veronica filiformis is a trailing perennial that only reaches up to 5 inches in height and produces small, singular flowers. The blooms are composed of four rounded petals seen in shades of pink, purple or blue and appear in the spring and summer. The foliage is scallop-shaped and is evergreen in warm areas.
These plants spread quickly, creating mats that can reach up to 30 inches wide. This spreading nature, though good for covering large areas, can spread outside of their intended growing areas. The species is considered an invasive weed in some areas.1
Common Name Creeping Speedwell, Slender Speedwell
Botanical Name Veronica filiformis
Family Plantaginaceae
Plant Type Perennial, groundcover
Mature Size 2-5 in. tall, 20-30 in. wide
Sun Exposure Full, partial
Soil Type Loamy, sandy, clay, moist but well-drained
Soil pH Neutral
Bloom Time Spring, summer
Flower Color Pink, blue, purple
Hardiness Zones 3-9, USA
Native Area Europe, Asia
Creeping Speedwell Care
Creeping speedwell is very easy to care for and is often found growing wild in lawns, fields, or meadows. It is quite hardy and handles mowing and foot traffic well. In fact, cut pieces blown by a mower easily take root, spreading the plant further. These plants make excellent additions to rock gardens or around pathways.
Creeping speedwell are deer and rabbit resistant. They are susceptible to root rot or other fungal problems if the soil is kept too wet.2 Take note that the dense mats created by the plants may harbor ticks and fleas.
Because of its hardy nature and rapid spread, creeping speedwell is considered invasive in some areas. For example, according to the Center for Invasive Species and Ecosystem Health, Veronica filiformis is considered invasive in the state of West Virginia.1 Be sure to do thorough research before planting this species in your area.
Light
Creeping speedwell can be grown in both full sun and shade. However, full sun can be too intense for creeping speedwell when it is grown in warm climates. Plants grown in full shade often do not flower well. For the best growth and bloom, it is ideal to plant creeping speedwell in an area with partial shade, particularly in the afternoon.
Soil
Creeping speedwell is a hardy plant frequently found growing in lawns, fields, and meadows. It prefers loamy, sandy, well-draining, and moist soil, but can also tolerate some clay. These plants grow best in soil with a neutral pH level, though they can tolerate slightly acidic and slightly alkaline soils.
Water
Once established, creeping speedwell is considered drought-tolerant. To avoid problems with soggy soil, only water these plants when the top inch or so of the soil begins to dry out. For young, newly planted speedwells, it is best to water more often until they are established. An inch of water per week is plenty to keep established plants healthy.
Temperature and Humidity
This groundcover plant is adaptable to a wide range of temperature and humidity levels, as long as it is grown within USDA hardiness zones 3 to 9. Keep in mind that the plant will remain evergreen in warm weather climates, but not in places where more seasonal changes in temperature are expected.
Fertilizer
Creeping speedwell is a light feeder and can even be grown in poor soil conditions, so regular fertilizing is not necessary. However, you can work compost or a well-balanced fertilizer into the soil in early spring if you want to ensure the plant receives needed nutrients.
Pruning
Pruning is not necessary, though it may be desired to keep the plant from spreading. Simply trim the plant with garden snips to do this. For large areas of creeping speedwell used as ground cover, a lawnmower is the best way to make quick work of the job. However, if you do not want the pruned pieces to take root, it is best to use a collection bag when mowing these plants.
Stop pruning in late summer, especially for plants grown in areas with cold winters. This allows the plants to create enough mature foliage to be protected through the winter. Pruning too late in the year will result in new growth that is too tender to survive the winter.
Propagating Creeping Speedwell
The spreading nature of creeping speedwell makes these plants easy to propagate. It can be accomplished by means of division, cuttings, or layering.
Division is a great option for plants whose centers begin to look bare or scraggly. To divide the plant, you will need a garden shovel, a hand shovel, a pair of snips, and a pair of gardening gloves. Then follow these instructions:
In early spring, use the garden shovel to gently dig around the plant, loosening the roots. Do this until the plant and its root system can be lifted from the ground.
Gently lift the plant out of the ground.
Using the shovels and the snips, divide the plant into however many sections you wish. Just be sure each section has healthy foliage and roots. Discard any bare areas.
Plant each section in its desired location.
To take cuttings, you will need a sharp pair of snips, moist, well-drained soil, and a small pot. Then follow these instructions:
Using the snips, cut a stem below a leaf node. Trim a section that is around 6 inches long.
Remove the leaves on the lower half of the cutting.
Bury the stripped end into moist soil. Make sure several nodes are buried, as this is where roots will form.
Keep the soil moist, but not soggy. Place the cuttings in bright, indirect light until roots form.
Check for roots by gently tugging on the cutting. If there is resistance, roots have formed. Once this happens, harden the cutting off and move it to its permanent location.
To layer, you will need a pair of garden gloves, a hand shovel, and a pair of snips. Then follow these instructions:
Find a node along the stem where you would like to propagate the plant.
Bury the node in the soil. Wait a few weeks for roots to form.
Check for roots by gently tugging on the buried node. Resistance means that roots have formed. At this point you may leave the node in place or cut the stem connecting it to the rest of the plant and dig up the new root system, planting it where you wish.
How to Grow Creeping Speedwell From Seed
Creeping speedwell can also be grown from seeds, started either indoors and outdoors. For indoor growth, start the seeds eight to 10 weeks before the last frost. You will need small pots, bright, indirect lighting, and a moist, well-draining seed starting mix, such as a peat moss mixture. Then follow these instructions:
Fill the pots with the seed starting mix and dampen the mixture.
Lightly sprinkle the tiny seeds onto the damp mixture and gently press them onto it. Do not bury them as they need light to germinate.
Place the pots in an area that receives bright, indirect light.
Keep the soil consistently moist.
Once the threat of frost is gone, harden off your seedlings. Then plant them into their permanent garden spaces.
To start seeds outdoors, follow these instructions:
Wait until the threat of frost is gone, then clear the area of weeds and work in organic material, such as compost. It is best to choose a spot that is protected from wind, as the seeds are very small and can be blown about.
Lightly sprinkle the seeds across the soil and gently tap them onto the soil to settle them in place. Do not bury them, as they need light to germinate.
Keep the soil moist as the seeds germinate and sprout. Once the plants become larger and more established, slowly reduce watering.
Potting and Repotting Creeping Speedwell
An easy way to contain creeping speedwell is by growing it in a pot. When choosing a container, be sure it has free-flowing drainage holes, as soggy soil can cause fungal problems. Since creeping speedwell will spread and fill the pot, at some point you will need to divide the plant or place it in a larger pot. When this time comes, tip the pot onto its side and tap it on all sides in order to loosen the roots. Slide the plant out when possible and either place it into a larger pot with loamy, well-draining soil, or divide the plant with a shovel or a pair of snips.
Overwintering
When grown in its appropriate growing zones, creeping speedwell does not require extra attention to survive the winter. Just be sure the soil does not get too wet, as this can lead to problems that may kill off the plant. If the winter is especially wet, you may want to cover the plant with plastic to keep some of the water out.
How to Get Creeping Speedwell to Bloom
Creeping speedwells produce small, four-petaled flowers seen in blue, purple, and pink. They often have white centers. Unlike other species of Veronica plants, creeping speedwell produces one flower per stalk as opposed to a spiky raceme covered in flowers. Still, these tiny flowers are attractive to pollinators such as butterflies and bees.
Because of their hardy nature, creeping speedwells do not often need much help to bloom. To encourage blooming, be sure to choose a planting spot that receives a few hours of sunlight each day. An area that receives morning sun and afternoon shade is ideal. Deadheading spent flower blooms will encourage more flowers to form.
Common Problems With Creeping Speedwell
Creeping speedwell is a very hardy plant and does not present many problems. In fact, it is more likely to challenge the gardener with problems of overgrowth. However, even extremely hardy plants may occasionally face problems. The biggest issues for creeping speedwell plants occur when the soil is too wet or too dry, manifesting in the form of wilting, soggy, or yellowing foliage.
Wilting Foliage
This is often seen in hot climates where the soil dries out quickly. If this is the case, try to plant your creeping speedwell in an area that receives afternoon shade. Increase the amount of water and frequency of watering times to ensure the plant receives enough.
Soggy, Wilting, and Yellowing Foliage
This is a sign of too much water and may point to root rot.2 If this is the case, cut back on watering and only water when the first inch or so of the soil is dry. If root rot is suspected, dig up the plant and cut away any infected roots and foliage. Amend the soil with a well-draining material such as sand or compost before replanting.
FAQ
Is creeping speedwell invasive?
Creeping speedwell is considered to be an invasive weed in some areas.1 Even in areas where it is not technically considered invasive, this plant has invasive qualities and can quickly spread outside its intended growing area.
Is creeping speedwell a perennial?
Yes, creeping speedwell is a perennial flowering plant. In areas with warm winters, this ground cover plant is also an evergreen.
How fast does creeping speedwell grow?
This ground cover is a fast grower and a quick spreader. This rapid growth makes containing the plant an important consideration for most gardeners.
Care
Pruning
Propagating
Growing From Seed
Potting and Repotting
Overwintering
Bloom
Common Problems
Frequently Asked Questions
BACK TO TOP
Creeping speedwell is a spreading perennial ground cover plant adorned with dainty flowers. Veronica filiformis is a trailing perennial that only reaches up to 5 inches in height and produces small, singular flowers. The blooms are composed of four rounded petals seen in shades of pink, purple or blue and appear in the spring and summer. The foliage is scallop-shaped and is evergreen in warm areas.
These plants spread quickly, creating mats that can reach up to 30 inches wide. This spreading nature, though good for covering large areas, can spread outside of their intended growing areas. The species is considered an invasive weed in some areas.1
Common Name Creeping Speedwell, Slender Speedwell
Botanical Name Veronica filiformis
Family Plantaginaceae
Plant Type Perennial, groundcover
Mature Size 2-5 in. tall, 20-30 in. wide
Sun Exposure Full, partial
Soil Type Loamy, sandy, clay, moist but well-drained
Soil pH Neutral
Bloom Time Spring, summer
Flower Color Pink, blue, purple
Hardiness Zones 3-9, USA
Native Area Europe, Asia
Creeping Speedwell Care
Creeping speedwell is very easy to care for and is often found growing wild in lawns, fields, or meadows. It is quite hardy and handles mowing and foot traffic well. In fact, cut pieces blown by a mower easily take root, spreading the plant further. These plants make excellent additions to rock gardens or around pathways.
Creeping speedwell are deer and rabbit resistant. They are susceptible to root rot or other fungal problems if the soil is kept too wet.2 Take note that the dense mats created by the plants may harbor ticks and fleas.
Because of its hardy nature and rapid spread, creeping speedwell is considered invasive in some areas. For example, according to the Center for Invasive Species and Ecosystem Health, Veronica filiformis is considered invasive in the state of West Virginia.1 Be sure to do thorough research before planting this species in your area.
Light
Creeping speedwell can be grown in both full sun and shade. However, full sun can be too intense for creeping speedwell when it is grown in warm climates. Plants grown in full shade often do not flower well. For the best growth and bloom, it is ideal to plant creeping speedwell in an area with partial shade, particularly in the afternoon.
Soil
Creeping speedwell is a hardy plant frequently found growing in lawns, fields, and meadows. It prefers loamy, sandy, well-draining, and moist soil, but can also tolerate some clay. These plants grow best in soil with a neutral pH level, though they can tolerate slightly acidic and slightly alkaline soils.
Water
Once established, creeping speedwell is considered drought-tolerant. To avoid problems with soggy soil, only water these plants when the top inch or so of the soil begins to dry out. For young, newly planted speedwells, it is best to water more often until they are established. An inch of water per week is plenty to keep established plants healthy.
Temperature and Humidity
This groundcover plant is adaptable to a wide range of temperature and humidity levels, as long as it is grown within USDA hardiness zones 3 to 9. Keep in mind that the plant will remain evergreen in warm weather climates, but not in places where more seasonal changes in temperature are expected.
Fertilizer
Creeping speedwell is a light feeder and can even be grown in poor soil conditions, so regular fertilizing is not necessary. However, you can work compost or a well-balanced fertilizer into the soil in early spring if you want to ensure the plant receives needed nutrients.
Pruning
Pruning is not necessary, though it may be desired to keep the plant from spreading. Simply trim the plant with garden snips to do this. For large areas of creeping speedwell used as ground cover, a lawnmower is the best way to make quick work of the job. However, if you do not want the pruned pieces to take root, it is best to use a collection bag when mowing these plants.
Stop pruning in late summer, especially for plants grown in areas with cold winters. This allows the plants to create enough mature foliage to be protected through the winter. Pruning too late in the year will result in new growth that is too tender to survive the winter.
Propagating Creeping Speedwell
The spreading nature of creeping speedwell makes these plants easy to propagate. It can be accomplished by means of division, cuttings, or layering.
Division is a great option for plants whose centers begin to look bare or scraggly. To divide the plant, you will need a garden shovel, a hand shovel, a pair of snips, and a pair of gardening gloves. Then follow these instructions:
In early spring, use the garden shovel to gently dig around the plant, loosening the roots. Do this until the plant and its root system can be lifted from the ground.
Gently lift the plant out of the ground.
Using the shovels and the snips, divide the plant into however many sections you wish. Just be sure each section has healthy foliage and roots. Discard any bare areas.
Plant each section in its desired location.
To take cuttings, you will need a sharp pair of snips, moist, well-drained soil, and a small pot. Then follow these instructions:
Using the snips, cut a stem below a leaf node. Trim a section that is around 6 inches long.
Remove the leaves on the lower half of the cutting.
Bury the stripped end into moist soil. Make sure several nodes are buried, as this is where roots will form.
Keep the soil moist, but not soggy. Place the cuttings in bright, indirect light until roots form.
Check for roots by gently tugging on the cutting. If there is resistance, roots have formed. Once this happens, harden the cutting off and move it to its permanent location.
To layer, you will need a pair of garden gloves, a hand shovel, and a pair of snips. Then follow these instructions:
Find a node along the stem where you would like to propagate the plant.
Bury the node in the soil. Wait a few weeks for roots to form.
Check for roots by gently tugging on the buried node. Resistance means that roots have formed. At this point you may leave the node in place or cut the stem connecting it to the rest of the plant and dig up the new root system, planting it where you wish.
How to Grow Creeping Speedwell From Seed
Creeping speedwell can also be grown from seeds, started either indoors and outdoors. For indoor growth, start the seeds eight to 10 weeks before the last frost. You will need small pots, bright, indirect lighting, and a moist, well-draining seed starting mix, such as a peat moss mixture. Then follow these instructions:
Fill the pots with the seed starting mix and dampen the mixture.
Lightly sprinkle the tiny seeds onto the damp mixture and gently press them onto it. Do not bury them as they need light to germinate.
Place the pots in an area that receives bright, indirect light.
Keep the soil consistently moist.
Once the threat of frost is gone, harden off your seedlings. Then plant them into their permanent garden spaces.
To start seeds outdoors, follow these instructions:
Wait until the threat of frost is gone, then clear the area of weeds and work in organic material, such as compost. It is best to choose a spot that is protected from wind, as the seeds are very small and can be blown about.
Lightly sprinkle the seeds across the soil and gently tap them onto the soil to settle them in place. Do not bury them, as they need light to germinate.
Keep the soil moist as the seeds germinate and sprout. Once the plants become larger and more established, slowly reduce watering.
Potting and Repotting Creeping Speedwell
An easy way to contain creeping speedwell is by growing it in a pot. When choosing a container, be sure it has free-flowing drainage holes, as soggy soil can cause fungal problems. Since creeping speedwell will spread and fill the pot, at some point you will need to divide the plant or place it in a larger pot. When this time comes, tip the pot onto its side and tap it on all sides in order to loosen the roots. Slide the plant out when possible and either place it into a larger pot with loamy, well-draining soil, or divide the plant with a shovel or a pair of snips.
Overwintering
When grown in its appropriate growing zones, creeping speedwell does not require extra attention to survive the winter. Just be sure the soil does not get too wet, as this can lead to problems that may kill off the plant. If the winter is especially wet, you may want to cover the plant with plastic to keep some of the water out.
How to Get Creeping Speedwell to Bloom
Creeping speedwells produce small, four-petaled flowers seen in blue, purple, and pink. They often have white centers. Unlike other species of Veronica plants, creeping speedwell produces one flower per stalk as opposed to a spiky raceme covered in flowers. Still, these tiny flowers are attractive to pollinators such as butterflies and bees.
Because of their hardy nature, creeping speedwells do not often need much help to bloom. To encourage blooming, be sure to choose a planting spot that receives a few hours of sunlight each day. An area that receives morning sun and afternoon shade is ideal. Deadheading spent flower blooms will encourage more flowers to form.
Common Problems With Creeping Speedwell
Creeping speedwell is a very hardy plant and does not present many problems. In fact, it is more likely to challenge the gardener with problems of overgrowth. However, even extremely hardy plants may occasionally face problems. The biggest issues for creeping speedwell plants occur when the soil is too wet or too dry, manifesting in the form of wilting, soggy, or yellowing foliage.
Wilting Foliage
This is often seen in hot climates where the soil dries out quickly. If this is the case, try to plant your creeping speedwell in an area that receives afternoon shade. Increase the amount of water and frequency of watering times to ensure the plant receives enough.
Soggy, Wilting, and Yellowing Foliage
This is a sign of too much water and may point to root rot.2 If this is the case, cut back on watering and only water when the first inch or so of the soil is dry. If root rot is suspected, dig up the plant and cut away any infected roots and foliage. Amend the soil with a well-draining material such as sand or compost before replanting.
FAQ
Is creeping speedwell invasive?
Creeping speedwell is considered to be an invasive weed in some areas.1 Even in areas where it is not technically considered invasive, this plant has invasive qualities and can quickly spread outside its intended growing area.
Is creeping speedwell a perennial?
Yes, creeping speedwell is a perennial flowering plant. In areas with warm winters, this ground cover plant is also an evergreen.
How fast does creeping speedwell grow?
This ground cover is a fast grower and a quick spreader. This rapid growth makes containing the plant an important consideration for most gardeners.
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文章
Miss Chen
2022年06月19日
Creeping phlox (Phlox stolonifera) is a low-growing, mat-forming plant that is often seen spreading as a ground cover, in rock gardens, and even in crevices of stone walls. It blooms in the late spring to summer with clusters of fragrant, five-petal flowers that stretch almost an inch across. These flowers tend to attract butterflies and other pollinators to a garden. And after they’re done blooming, the creeping phlox foliage still remains green and attractive for much of the year before dying back in the winter. Plant your creeping phlox in the spring after the danger of frost has passed. The plant has a moderate growth rate.
Common Name Creeping phlox, moss phlox, star rock phlox
Botanical Name Phlox stolonifera
Family Polemoniaceae
Plant Type Herbaceous, perennial
Mature Size 6–12 in. tall, 9–18 in. wide
Sun Exposure Full, partial
Soil Type Loamy, well-drained
Soil pH Acidic, neutral, alkaline
Bloom Time Spring, summer
Flower Color Purple, pink, white
Hardiness Zones 5–9, USA
Native Area North America
Creeping Phlox Care
Creeping phlox is a fairly low-maintenance plant. It requires watering if you have a week or two without rainfall, along with an annual feeding. Plus, mature plants might need a bit of pruning maintenance to keep them looking tidy unless you'd like for your phlox to naturally spread and blanket a large area.
As with many ground covers, grass and weeds growing up through the phlox can be a nuisance. And they will compete with your phlox for soil nutrients and moisture. It's best to start managing weeds early in the spring before the phlox blooms and its foliage is at its fullest. Hand-pulling is the most effective method for removing weeds. If you let the weeds get out of control, it might be easiest to dig up the phlox (keeping its roots intact), clear the area of grass and weeds, and then replant the phlox.
Light
This plant grows best in full sun to partial shade. Too much shade can impede flower production.
Soil
Creeping phlox likes soil that is rich in organic matter. It prefers a slightly acidic soil pH but also can tolerate neutral and slightly alkaline soil. Moreover, it needs a well-drained soil.
Water
This plant requires a moderate amount of soil moisture, though mature plants do have some drought tolerance. Unless you have rainfall, it will generally need watering weekly, especially during the heat of the summer.
Temperature and Humidity
Creeping phlox plants are fairly hardy in their growing zones. They tolerate heat well and can handle some frost, though prolonged exposure to temperatures below 40 degrees Fahrenheit can damage the plants. Moreover, humidity is typically not an issue for the plants.
Fertilizer
Fertilizing in the late winter or early spring will promote growth and support a more robust bloom for your creeping phlox. Feed it with a general slow-release fertilizer suitable for flowering plants, following label instructions.
Types of Creeping Phlox
There are many varieties of creeping phlox, including:
Phlox stolonifera ‘Fran’s Purple’: This phlox features deep green leaves and rich purple flowers.
Phlox stolonifera ‘Home Fires’: Bright pink flowers adorn this variety.
Phlox stolonifera ‘Pink Ridge’: This variety has flowers that are similar in color to ‘Home Fires’.
Phlox stolonifera ‘Sherwood Purple’: Blue-purple flowers are featured on this plant.
Pruning
Pruning is optional on these plants. After the blooming period is over, you can trim back the foliage to create a neater form. This also will promote denser foliage, enhancing the phlox's beauty as a ground cover. Alternatively, you can skip the pruning and let the plants grow naturally.
Propagating Creeping Phlox
Creeping phlox is best propagated via division. Not only is this a cost-effective way to get a new plant, but it also helps to rejuvenate mature and overgrown phlox. Typically, you can divide a plant every two to three years without seriously weakening it. Here's how:
Dig up the entire plant immediately after it's done blooming, being careful to keep the root ball intact.
Cut through the roots with a sterile, sharp spade to divide them roughly in half.
Replant each half in an appropriate growing site, and water to lightly moisten the soil.
Common Pests
Creeping phlox is less susceptible to the powdery mildew that plagues other phlox species, but spider mites can be an issue is hot, dry climates. Insecticidal soaps are often helpful for this problem. Another option is to spray the plants regularly with a hard stream of water to dislodge the mites and keep them under control.
These plants also can be susceptible to foliar nematodes in wet, humid weather. Nematodes cause lesions on the leaves of the plants that turn brown and then black. These soil organisms are hard to control. So diseased plants must be removed and destroyed, and the ground should be kept clean of debris.
How to Get Creeping Phlox to Bloom
Creeping phlox will start blooming in the late spring to early summer, depending on its climate. And it will stay in bloom for several weeks with profuse clusters of sweetly fragrant flowers. The five-petal flowers have rounded, notched lobes, and they are overall fairly flat.
Proper light conditions and a regular fertilization schedule will encourage the best blooming on creeping phlox year after year. You do not need to deadhead these plants (remove the spent blooms), though in some cases this can extend the blooming period. Don't do any pruning on your phlox until it's done blooming to avoid removing the flower buds.
Common Problems
Creeping phlox isn't prone to many problems when grown in the conditions it likes. But an improper environment can result in some common issues.
Leaves Turning Yellow
Yellowing foliage can be a sign of multiple issues, including diseases. But often it's an environmental issue, especially too little light and overwatering. Watch your phlox throughout the day to make sure it's not being shaded for too long. And make sure it has adequate soil drainage. The plant might need to be moved if it's not in suitable conditions.
Poor Blooming
Environmental issues also can result in poor blooming on a creeping phlox plant, especially too little light. Also, the soil might be too high in nitrogen, which promotes foliage growth at the expense of flower buds. In addition, if flowering has diminished on a mature plant, that's often a sign it needs to be divided to become rejuvenated and bloom profusely again.
FAQ
Does creeping phlox like sun or shade?
Creeping phlox prefers full sun or partial shade, meaning at least roughly four hours of direct sunlight on most days.
Is creeping phlox easy to grow?
Creeping phlox is easy to grow and care for, requiring fairly regular watering and minimal feeding and pruning.
How fast does creeping phlox grow?
Creeping phlox has a moderate growth rate and will spread to form a mat over the ground.
Common Name Creeping phlox, moss phlox, star rock phlox
Botanical Name Phlox stolonifera
Family Polemoniaceae
Plant Type Herbaceous, perennial
Mature Size 6–12 in. tall, 9–18 in. wide
Sun Exposure Full, partial
Soil Type Loamy, well-drained
Soil pH Acidic, neutral, alkaline
Bloom Time Spring, summer
Flower Color Purple, pink, white
Hardiness Zones 5–9, USA
Native Area North America
Creeping Phlox Care
Creeping phlox is a fairly low-maintenance plant. It requires watering if you have a week or two without rainfall, along with an annual feeding. Plus, mature plants might need a bit of pruning maintenance to keep them looking tidy unless you'd like for your phlox to naturally spread and blanket a large area.
As with many ground covers, grass and weeds growing up through the phlox can be a nuisance. And they will compete with your phlox for soil nutrients and moisture. It's best to start managing weeds early in the spring before the phlox blooms and its foliage is at its fullest. Hand-pulling is the most effective method for removing weeds. If you let the weeds get out of control, it might be easiest to dig up the phlox (keeping its roots intact), clear the area of grass and weeds, and then replant the phlox.
Light
This plant grows best in full sun to partial shade. Too much shade can impede flower production.
Soil
Creeping phlox likes soil that is rich in organic matter. It prefers a slightly acidic soil pH but also can tolerate neutral and slightly alkaline soil. Moreover, it needs a well-drained soil.
Water
This plant requires a moderate amount of soil moisture, though mature plants do have some drought tolerance. Unless you have rainfall, it will generally need watering weekly, especially during the heat of the summer.
Temperature and Humidity
Creeping phlox plants are fairly hardy in their growing zones. They tolerate heat well and can handle some frost, though prolonged exposure to temperatures below 40 degrees Fahrenheit can damage the plants. Moreover, humidity is typically not an issue for the plants.
Fertilizer
Fertilizing in the late winter or early spring will promote growth and support a more robust bloom for your creeping phlox. Feed it with a general slow-release fertilizer suitable for flowering plants, following label instructions.
Types of Creeping Phlox
There are many varieties of creeping phlox, including:
Phlox stolonifera ‘Fran’s Purple’: This phlox features deep green leaves and rich purple flowers.
Phlox stolonifera ‘Home Fires’: Bright pink flowers adorn this variety.
Phlox stolonifera ‘Pink Ridge’: This variety has flowers that are similar in color to ‘Home Fires’.
Phlox stolonifera ‘Sherwood Purple’: Blue-purple flowers are featured on this plant.
Pruning
Pruning is optional on these plants. After the blooming period is over, you can trim back the foliage to create a neater form. This also will promote denser foliage, enhancing the phlox's beauty as a ground cover. Alternatively, you can skip the pruning and let the plants grow naturally.
Propagating Creeping Phlox
Creeping phlox is best propagated via division. Not only is this a cost-effective way to get a new plant, but it also helps to rejuvenate mature and overgrown phlox. Typically, you can divide a plant every two to three years without seriously weakening it. Here's how:
Dig up the entire plant immediately after it's done blooming, being careful to keep the root ball intact.
Cut through the roots with a sterile, sharp spade to divide them roughly in half.
Replant each half in an appropriate growing site, and water to lightly moisten the soil.
Common Pests
Creeping phlox is less susceptible to the powdery mildew that plagues other phlox species, but spider mites can be an issue is hot, dry climates. Insecticidal soaps are often helpful for this problem. Another option is to spray the plants regularly with a hard stream of water to dislodge the mites and keep them under control.
These plants also can be susceptible to foliar nematodes in wet, humid weather. Nematodes cause lesions on the leaves of the plants that turn brown and then black. These soil organisms are hard to control. So diseased plants must be removed and destroyed, and the ground should be kept clean of debris.
How to Get Creeping Phlox to Bloom
Creeping phlox will start blooming in the late spring to early summer, depending on its climate. And it will stay in bloom for several weeks with profuse clusters of sweetly fragrant flowers. The five-petal flowers have rounded, notched lobes, and they are overall fairly flat.
Proper light conditions and a regular fertilization schedule will encourage the best blooming on creeping phlox year after year. You do not need to deadhead these plants (remove the spent blooms), though in some cases this can extend the blooming period. Don't do any pruning on your phlox until it's done blooming to avoid removing the flower buds.
Common Problems
Creeping phlox isn't prone to many problems when grown in the conditions it likes. But an improper environment can result in some common issues.
Leaves Turning Yellow
Yellowing foliage can be a sign of multiple issues, including diseases. But often it's an environmental issue, especially too little light and overwatering. Watch your phlox throughout the day to make sure it's not being shaded for too long. And make sure it has adequate soil drainage. The plant might need to be moved if it's not in suitable conditions.
Poor Blooming
Environmental issues also can result in poor blooming on a creeping phlox plant, especially too little light. Also, the soil might be too high in nitrogen, which promotes foliage growth at the expense of flower buds. In addition, if flowering has diminished on a mature plant, that's often a sign it needs to be divided to become rejuvenated and bloom profusely again.
FAQ
Does creeping phlox like sun or shade?
Creeping phlox prefers full sun or partial shade, meaning at least roughly four hours of direct sunlight on most days.
Is creeping phlox easy to grow?
Creeping phlox is easy to grow and care for, requiring fairly regular watering and minimal feeding and pruning.
How fast does creeping phlox grow?
Creeping phlox has a moderate growth rate and will spread to form a mat over the ground.
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文章
Miss Chen
2022年06月05日
Unlike most varieties of mint, which grow aggressively and often invasively, Corsican mint is somewhat challenging to grow. It is a low-growing herb, with tiny rounded glossy green leaves on very short stems, barely growing more than a quarter of an inch tall. In the right growing conditions, Corsican mint can be an effective, attractive ground cover. It can also be grown in containers with other herbs or flowers. Native to Corsica , Montecristo, and Sardinia, it has also been naturalized in other parts of Europe, including Portugal and the British Isles.
Corsican mint, also known as Mentha requienii, is perennial in warmer zones, from 7 to 11. It bears very tiny pale purple flowers in summer, somewhat similar in appearance to creeping thyme. Also like creeping thyme, the tiny leaves of this herb make it suitable for growing around stepping stones or walkways where it provides a fresh burst of scent when stepped on. Unlike creeping thyme, which likes full sun, Corsican mint thrives in shady spots. In addition to having a strong mint fragrance, Corsican mint is known to have a strong mint flavor and has traditionally been used to make creme de menthe, a bright green liqueur. It also has traditional medicinal uses for indigestion and as an antiseptic.
The strong scent of Corsican mint makes it a useful companion plant for brassicas, as it repels pests that like to munch on cabbages, broccoli and cauliflower. The smell of mint can also be a deterrent to rodents and planting it near entrances or in containers in the garden can help deter mice and other pests.
In the United States, Corsican mint is considered an invasive species in the southeast where it has naturalized as a perennial. Most gardeners are familiar with the aggressive, invasive qualities of mint plants, but Corsican mint has proved itself to be enough of a nuisance that its cultivation is prohibited in some areas.
Botanical Name Mentha requienii
Common Name Corsican mint
Plant Type Perennial
Mature Size 1/4 in. tall
Sun Exposure Full sun to part shade
Soil Type Well-drained
Soil pH 5.6 to 7.0 (acidic to neutral)
Bloom Time June through August
Flower Color Light purple
Hardiness Zones 7 to 11 (USDA)
Native Areas Sardinia, Corsica, Italy, France
Toxicity Toxic to dogs in large amounts
Coriscan Mint Care
Corsican mint needs a bit more effort and care than most garden varieties of mint, which are so low care they can become invasive with very little effort. Corsican mint is a good choice for those who like a strongly scented and flavored mint for culinary use. To help control spread grow this, and other mints, in containers. A pot on the patio or outside the kitchen door is also handy for the chef. If you are looking to cover a bare spot in the landscape or an area difficult to maintain such as a slope or bank, go ahead and plant in the ground but keep a close eye on continued spread.
WARNING
Corsican mint is classified as an invasive species in the southeastern part of the United States. Consult with your local extension office to determine if you can plant Corsican mint in your garden.
Light
This mint adapts to a range of light conditions, from full sun to partial shade. Partial shade may prove to be a better location where summers are hotter.
Soil
Corsican mint grows best in well-drained soil, with some organic matter to hold moisture. It also tolerates acidic soil.
Water
Corsican mint needs ample moisture to thrive, but too much water will lead to root rot. It does require regular watering, however, and is not very drought tolerant, so maintaining this balance can be somewhat tricky. The best approach to seasonal watering is to let the soil surface of the planting area dry out before watering.
Temperature and Humidity
Corsican mint is fairly sensitive to temperature and will only naturalize within the narrow growing zone range of 7 to 11 in the United States. It likes consistent but not constant moisture, and if it gets too wet its leaves may turn into a black and slimy unsightly mess.
Propagating
The easiest way to propagate Corsican mint is by division. In a suitable climate, it will self-seed and continue to spread, and can become invasive. Once established, you can easily divide the plants to share or plant elsewhere.
How to Grow Corsican Mint from Seed
If you can obtain seeds, Corsican mint can be planted indoors 4 to 6 weeks before the last frost date. If sowing seeds outdoors, soil should have reached a consistent temperature of at least 65 degrees Fahrenheit. Press seeds lightly into the soil surface and mist lightly with water. They should germinate in 7 to 14 days.
Overwintering
This plant is not really suitable for overwintering outdoors if your growing zone is below 7. But you can grow it indoors in containers in the winter time. Give it plenty of indirect light near a sunny window.
Corsican mint, also known as Mentha requienii, is perennial in warmer zones, from 7 to 11. It bears very tiny pale purple flowers in summer, somewhat similar in appearance to creeping thyme. Also like creeping thyme, the tiny leaves of this herb make it suitable for growing around stepping stones or walkways where it provides a fresh burst of scent when stepped on. Unlike creeping thyme, which likes full sun, Corsican mint thrives in shady spots. In addition to having a strong mint fragrance, Corsican mint is known to have a strong mint flavor and has traditionally been used to make creme de menthe, a bright green liqueur. It also has traditional medicinal uses for indigestion and as an antiseptic.
The strong scent of Corsican mint makes it a useful companion plant for brassicas, as it repels pests that like to munch on cabbages, broccoli and cauliflower. The smell of mint can also be a deterrent to rodents and planting it near entrances or in containers in the garden can help deter mice and other pests.
In the United States, Corsican mint is considered an invasive species in the southeast where it has naturalized as a perennial. Most gardeners are familiar with the aggressive, invasive qualities of mint plants, but Corsican mint has proved itself to be enough of a nuisance that its cultivation is prohibited in some areas.
Botanical Name Mentha requienii
Common Name Corsican mint
Plant Type Perennial
Mature Size 1/4 in. tall
Sun Exposure Full sun to part shade
Soil Type Well-drained
Soil pH 5.6 to 7.0 (acidic to neutral)
Bloom Time June through August
Flower Color Light purple
Hardiness Zones 7 to 11 (USDA)
Native Areas Sardinia, Corsica, Italy, France
Toxicity Toxic to dogs in large amounts
Coriscan Mint Care
Corsican mint needs a bit more effort and care than most garden varieties of mint, which are so low care they can become invasive with very little effort. Corsican mint is a good choice for those who like a strongly scented and flavored mint for culinary use. To help control spread grow this, and other mints, in containers. A pot on the patio or outside the kitchen door is also handy for the chef. If you are looking to cover a bare spot in the landscape or an area difficult to maintain such as a slope or bank, go ahead and plant in the ground but keep a close eye on continued spread.
WARNING
Corsican mint is classified as an invasive species in the southeastern part of the United States. Consult with your local extension office to determine if you can plant Corsican mint in your garden.
Light
This mint adapts to a range of light conditions, from full sun to partial shade. Partial shade may prove to be a better location where summers are hotter.
Soil
Corsican mint grows best in well-drained soil, with some organic matter to hold moisture. It also tolerates acidic soil.
Water
Corsican mint needs ample moisture to thrive, but too much water will lead to root rot. It does require regular watering, however, and is not very drought tolerant, so maintaining this balance can be somewhat tricky. The best approach to seasonal watering is to let the soil surface of the planting area dry out before watering.
Temperature and Humidity
Corsican mint is fairly sensitive to temperature and will only naturalize within the narrow growing zone range of 7 to 11 in the United States. It likes consistent but not constant moisture, and if it gets too wet its leaves may turn into a black and slimy unsightly mess.
Propagating
The easiest way to propagate Corsican mint is by division. In a suitable climate, it will self-seed and continue to spread, and can become invasive. Once established, you can easily divide the plants to share or plant elsewhere.
How to Grow Corsican Mint from Seed
If you can obtain seeds, Corsican mint can be planted indoors 4 to 6 weeks before the last frost date. If sowing seeds outdoors, soil should have reached a consistent temperature of at least 65 degrees Fahrenheit. Press seeds lightly into the soil surface and mist lightly with water. They should germinate in 7 to 14 days.
Overwintering
This plant is not really suitable for overwintering outdoors if your growing zone is below 7. But you can grow it indoors in containers in the winter time. Give it plenty of indirect light near a sunny window.
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文章
Miss Chen
2022年05月30日
The corkscrew vine, corkscrew flower, or snail flower (vigna caracalla) is a rapid-growing, twining, perennial vine with fragrant flowers. This member of the pea family is native to the tropical areas of Central and South America, and it thrives in regions that replicate these types of conditions.
The corkscrew vine has also naturalized--and sometimes aggressively self-seeds and spreads--in parts of California.
It's an evergreen, deciduous plant when grown in frost-free regions, and known for its ornamental attractiveness. Its showy flowers twist spirally on the vine, so it looks like a corkscrew. The flower gets its "snail" moniker thanks to the fact that the way its flowers curl closely around resembles a mollusc shell.
From July to October, and up until the first frost, the corkscrew vine blooms highly fragrant white and lilac/purple flowers, and they are sometimes marked with yellow and cream colors. Its spiraling flowers are about two inches long and grow in erect clusters, known as racemes, that can reach up to a foot long. Its vines sprout green leaves, which each have three leaflets about three to five inches long.
The flowers are accompanied by dangling, narrow bean-like pods that are six to seven inches long and one-inch wide, and contain round brown seeds.
Botanical Name Vigna caracalla
Common Name Corkscrew vine
Plant Type Vine
Mature Size 12-30 feet
Sun Exposure Full sun
Soil Type Moist, well-drained
Soil pH 6-8
Bloom Time Late summer/Fall
Flower Color White, purple
Hardiness Zones 9-12
Native Area Central and South America
Corkscrew Vine Plant Care
The fast-growing corkscrew vine is relatively easy to grow from seed, however, its vine-like structure means it will need a support structure on which to grow. They may be grown as either a perennial or an annual, and as a cover for a fence, arbor, wall, or trellis.
Just be aware that once it's established, the corkscrew vine is a very fast grower and may very well take over your entire garden, and even the rest of your backyard, so be sure to closely monitor its growth and spread.
These plants are not associated with any significant insect or disease problems and are known to attract both birds and butterflies. The corkscrew vine's flowers are primarily pollinated by ants.
Light
Corkscrew vine plants will grow best when planted in full sunlight. They can also tolerate partial shade.
Soil
When growing corkscrew vine plants, the soil should be fertile, moist, and well-drained.
Water
You'll want to make sure the corkscrew vine's soil never becomes overly soggy. Water the vines only when they appear dry, and keep the water at soil level. You should also allow the excess moisture to seep away after watering. Applying a three-inch layer of mulch can help maintain soil moisture.
Temperature and Humidity
These plants love heat and humidity, and will always grow best in tropical climates. They can be grown in northern climates but will have to be moved indoors well before the first frost of the winter. corkscrew vines will not do well once temperatures dip below 50 degrees Fahrenheit.
Fertilizer
Though the corkscrew vine doesn't necessarily require fertilizer, you can use an organically-sourced and balanced granular fertilizer to promote its growth.
Propagating Corkscrew Vine
The corkscrew vine plant can be propagated by seed and is usually started indoors, as it handles transplanting well. Try using toenail clippers to clip the seed coat about at least halfway around the edge of the seed to encourage successful germination.
Be sure to sow the seeds with only a light covering of soil on top. They will take up to six days to germinate depending on the temperature of the soil and whether or not the seed coat is scarified.
Pruning
In addition to monitoring its spread to prevent it from taking over your garden, once your corkscrew vine has matured, you'll want to cut back its leaves and tendrils. This will help promote more significant flowering.
Growing in Containers
The corkscrew vine can be grown in containers and then brought indoors in northern climates and other regions where the plant is not winter hardy. Just be sure there is excellent drainage within the pots and that you place it in front of a sunny window.
The corkscrew vine has also naturalized--and sometimes aggressively self-seeds and spreads--in parts of California.
It's an evergreen, deciduous plant when grown in frost-free regions, and known for its ornamental attractiveness. Its showy flowers twist spirally on the vine, so it looks like a corkscrew. The flower gets its "snail" moniker thanks to the fact that the way its flowers curl closely around resembles a mollusc shell.
From July to October, and up until the first frost, the corkscrew vine blooms highly fragrant white and lilac/purple flowers, and they are sometimes marked with yellow and cream colors. Its spiraling flowers are about two inches long and grow in erect clusters, known as racemes, that can reach up to a foot long. Its vines sprout green leaves, which each have three leaflets about three to five inches long.
The flowers are accompanied by dangling, narrow bean-like pods that are six to seven inches long and one-inch wide, and contain round brown seeds.
Botanical Name Vigna caracalla
Common Name Corkscrew vine
Plant Type Vine
Mature Size 12-30 feet
Sun Exposure Full sun
Soil Type Moist, well-drained
Soil pH 6-8
Bloom Time Late summer/Fall
Flower Color White, purple
Hardiness Zones 9-12
Native Area Central and South America
Corkscrew Vine Plant Care
The fast-growing corkscrew vine is relatively easy to grow from seed, however, its vine-like structure means it will need a support structure on which to grow. They may be grown as either a perennial or an annual, and as a cover for a fence, arbor, wall, or trellis.
Just be aware that once it's established, the corkscrew vine is a very fast grower and may very well take over your entire garden, and even the rest of your backyard, so be sure to closely monitor its growth and spread.
These plants are not associated with any significant insect or disease problems and are known to attract both birds and butterflies. The corkscrew vine's flowers are primarily pollinated by ants.
Light
Corkscrew vine plants will grow best when planted in full sunlight. They can also tolerate partial shade.
Soil
When growing corkscrew vine plants, the soil should be fertile, moist, and well-drained.
Water
You'll want to make sure the corkscrew vine's soil never becomes overly soggy. Water the vines only when they appear dry, and keep the water at soil level. You should also allow the excess moisture to seep away after watering. Applying a three-inch layer of mulch can help maintain soil moisture.
Temperature and Humidity
These plants love heat and humidity, and will always grow best in tropical climates. They can be grown in northern climates but will have to be moved indoors well before the first frost of the winter. corkscrew vines will not do well once temperatures dip below 50 degrees Fahrenheit.
Fertilizer
Though the corkscrew vine doesn't necessarily require fertilizer, you can use an organically-sourced and balanced granular fertilizer to promote its growth.
Propagating Corkscrew Vine
The corkscrew vine plant can be propagated by seed and is usually started indoors, as it handles transplanting well. Try using toenail clippers to clip the seed coat about at least halfway around the edge of the seed to encourage successful germination.
Be sure to sow the seeds with only a light covering of soil on top. They will take up to six days to germinate depending on the temperature of the soil and whether or not the seed coat is scarified.
Pruning
In addition to monitoring its spread to prevent it from taking over your garden, once your corkscrew vine has matured, you'll want to cut back its leaves and tendrils. This will help promote more significant flowering.
Growing in Containers
The corkscrew vine can be grown in containers and then brought indoors in northern climates and other regions where the plant is not winter hardy. Just be sure there is excellent drainage within the pots and that you place it in front of a sunny window.
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文章
Miss Chen
2022年04月03日
The Pilea peperomioides is a popular houseplant thanks to its attractive coin-shaped foliage and ease of care. This flowering perennial in the nettle family (Urticaceae) is native to southern China, growing naturally along the base of the Himalayan mountains.
The Pilea peperomioides has many different common names and may also be referred to as the Chinese money plant, coin plant, pancake plant, and UFO plant.
It is grown primarily for its unique foliage - and although it can produce small, white flowers throughout the spring months, the Pilea peperomioides often does not flower when grown indoors. Learn how to grow this attractive houseplant!
Botanical Name Pilea peperomioides
Common Name Chinese money plant, coin plant, pancake plant, UFO plant
Plant Type Evergreen perennial
Mature Size 12 inches tall
Sun Exposure Bright indirect light
Soil Type Well-draining, rich
Soil pH 6.0-7.0
Bloom Time Spring
Flower Color White
Native Area China
Pilea Peperomioides Care
Although this popular houseplant may be difficult to get your hands on, once you have one it is surprisingly easy to care for. Provide your Pilea peperomioides with bright light, semi-regular watering, and some light feeding in the spring and summer months and it will thrive. Plus, Chinese money plants are easy to propagate, and a healthy plant will produce plenty of offshoots which you can easily separate to create more plants. Share them with friends, or keep them for yourself - once you have a Chinese money plant, you will never need to buy another one!
Light
The Pilea peperomioides thrives in medium to bright indirect light. Rotate your plant regularly to keep it looking symmetrical. Avoid locations that receive harsh, direct light as it will burn the delicate leaves.
While this plant can adapt to lower light conditions; it will become leggy, grow fewer offshoots, and the coin-shaped leaves may become smaller. Overall, this plant is healthiest and most attractive when grown in bright light conditions.
Soil
Plant your Pilea peperomioides in rich, well-draining soil. A high-quality organic potting mix that is peat-based or coir-based is best. Amend the soil with perlite to increase the drainage and ensure the soil does not become waterlogged. A soil pH between 6.0-7.0 is best for this plant.
Water
This evergreen perennial is considered to have medium water needs. Allow the plant to nearly dry out between waterings and then water well. The leaves of a Pilea peperomioides will begin to droop when it dries out, which is a good indication that it’s time for watering.
Temperature and Humidity
The average household temperature and humidity are fine for the Pilea peperomioides. Where possible, avoid overly dry conditions - which usually means keeping the plant away from heating vents or baseboards.
The Chinese money plant is hardy to freezing temperatures, but when kept indoors avoid exposing it to temperatures below 50 degrees Fahrenheit (10 degrees Celsius). However, a short period of cold exposure in the winter months may help to encourage blooming.
Fertilizer
The Pilea peperomioides benefits from monthly fertilization in the spring and summer months. Use a balanced, all-purpose fertilizer for best results. Avoid fertilizing during the fall and winter months when the plant has gone into dormancy.
Potting and Repotting Pilea Peperomioides
When properly cared for a Pilea peperomioides is fast-growing and can quickly fill its pot with roots and offshoots. Yearly repotting in the early spring or summer months to refresh the soil, remove offshoots (if you wish), and upgrade the pot size is recommended.
When choosing a pot for your Chinese money plant the most important thing to take into consideration is proper drainage. In short, ensure that the pot has a drainage hole!
The plant adapts well to plastic, ceramic, and terracotta pots, although, if you choose a terracotta pot, be aware that you may need to water your Pilea more frequently as terracotta absorbs water from the soil.
Propagating Pilea Peperomioides
Fondly nicknamed the “sharing plant,” a healthy Pilea peperomioides is very easy to propagate as it will grow offshoots readily. These offshoots grow up from the root system, but can also grow from the nodes along the stem of the mother plant, usually in places where old leaves have fallen off.
Once the offshoots are a couple of inches tall, it is safe to separate them from the mother plant if you wish. If you want a plant with a fuller, bushier look you can also leave these offshoots on the mother plant.
To separate an offshoot from the roots of the mother plant, gently dig around in the soil to expose the roots of the offshoot, and with a clean knife or pruning shears, cut the main root an inch or two below the soil. Immediately move the separated cutting into some moist soil in a separate potting container. Keep the soil moist (but not waterlogged) until the new plant has established a root system in the new pot, and then resume a regular watering and fertilization schedule.
Common Pests/Diseases
The Pilea peperomioides is not prone to any particular pests or diseases, but when grown indoors it is susceptible to a variety of common houseplant pests. Keep an eye out for mealybugs, scale, fungus gnats, and spider mites and treat accordingly if you notice an infestation starting.
The Pilea peperomioides has many different common names and may also be referred to as the Chinese money plant, coin plant, pancake plant, and UFO plant.
It is grown primarily for its unique foliage - and although it can produce small, white flowers throughout the spring months, the Pilea peperomioides often does not flower when grown indoors. Learn how to grow this attractive houseplant!
Botanical Name Pilea peperomioides
Common Name Chinese money plant, coin plant, pancake plant, UFO plant
Plant Type Evergreen perennial
Mature Size 12 inches tall
Sun Exposure Bright indirect light
Soil Type Well-draining, rich
Soil pH 6.0-7.0
Bloom Time Spring
Flower Color White
Native Area China
Pilea Peperomioides Care
Although this popular houseplant may be difficult to get your hands on, once you have one it is surprisingly easy to care for. Provide your Pilea peperomioides with bright light, semi-regular watering, and some light feeding in the spring and summer months and it will thrive. Plus, Chinese money plants are easy to propagate, and a healthy plant will produce plenty of offshoots which you can easily separate to create more plants. Share them with friends, or keep them for yourself - once you have a Chinese money plant, you will never need to buy another one!
Light
The Pilea peperomioides thrives in medium to bright indirect light. Rotate your plant regularly to keep it looking symmetrical. Avoid locations that receive harsh, direct light as it will burn the delicate leaves.
While this plant can adapt to lower light conditions; it will become leggy, grow fewer offshoots, and the coin-shaped leaves may become smaller. Overall, this plant is healthiest and most attractive when grown in bright light conditions.
Soil
Plant your Pilea peperomioides in rich, well-draining soil. A high-quality organic potting mix that is peat-based or coir-based is best. Amend the soil with perlite to increase the drainage and ensure the soil does not become waterlogged. A soil pH between 6.0-7.0 is best for this plant.
Water
This evergreen perennial is considered to have medium water needs. Allow the plant to nearly dry out between waterings and then water well. The leaves of a Pilea peperomioides will begin to droop when it dries out, which is a good indication that it’s time for watering.
Temperature and Humidity
The average household temperature and humidity are fine for the Pilea peperomioides. Where possible, avoid overly dry conditions - which usually means keeping the plant away from heating vents or baseboards.
The Chinese money plant is hardy to freezing temperatures, but when kept indoors avoid exposing it to temperatures below 50 degrees Fahrenheit (10 degrees Celsius). However, a short period of cold exposure in the winter months may help to encourage blooming.
Fertilizer
The Pilea peperomioides benefits from monthly fertilization in the spring and summer months. Use a balanced, all-purpose fertilizer for best results. Avoid fertilizing during the fall and winter months when the plant has gone into dormancy.
Potting and Repotting Pilea Peperomioides
When properly cared for a Pilea peperomioides is fast-growing and can quickly fill its pot with roots and offshoots. Yearly repotting in the early spring or summer months to refresh the soil, remove offshoots (if you wish), and upgrade the pot size is recommended.
When choosing a pot for your Chinese money plant the most important thing to take into consideration is proper drainage. In short, ensure that the pot has a drainage hole!
The plant adapts well to plastic, ceramic, and terracotta pots, although, if you choose a terracotta pot, be aware that you may need to water your Pilea more frequently as terracotta absorbs water from the soil.
Propagating Pilea Peperomioides
Fondly nicknamed the “sharing plant,” a healthy Pilea peperomioides is very easy to propagate as it will grow offshoots readily. These offshoots grow up from the root system, but can also grow from the nodes along the stem of the mother plant, usually in places where old leaves have fallen off.
Once the offshoots are a couple of inches tall, it is safe to separate them from the mother plant if you wish. If you want a plant with a fuller, bushier look you can also leave these offshoots on the mother plant.
To separate an offshoot from the roots of the mother plant, gently dig around in the soil to expose the roots of the offshoot, and with a clean knife or pruning shears, cut the main root an inch or two below the soil. Immediately move the separated cutting into some moist soil in a separate potting container. Keep the soil moist (but not waterlogged) until the new plant has established a root system in the new pot, and then resume a regular watering and fertilization schedule.
Common Pests/Diseases
The Pilea peperomioides is not prone to any particular pests or diseases, but when grown indoors it is susceptible to a variety of common houseplant pests. Keep an eye out for mealybugs, scale, fungus gnats, and spider mites and treat accordingly if you notice an infestation starting.
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文章
Miss Chen
2022年04月01日
Gardeners deemed Rehmannia elata to be 'Chinese foxglove' because the tubular flowers bear a resemblance to digitalis, the foxglove plant. The two plants, however, are actually unrelated. With fast-growing, small Chinese foxglove, spikes of dangling, bell-shaped, rose-pink blossoms poke up from scalloped, glossy green leaves. Unlike traditional foxglove, however, Chinese foxglove petals of the bell-lip flare open and outward.
Spring-planted seeds may not bloom the first year, but to get around this frustration, you can plant the seeds in the fall for gorgeous flowers the following summer. Although Chinese foxglove is not as hardy as its lookalike, digitalis, it is more versatile, growing well in shade and is even fairly drought-tolerant.
Botanical Name Rehmannia elata
Common Name Chinese foxglove
Plant Type Herbaceous perennial
Mature Size 2-3 ft. wide, 1.5-3 ft. wide
Sun Exposure Full sun, partial shade
Soil Type Well-draining, rich soil
Soil pH 6.5-7
Bloom Time Summer, fall
Flower Color Pink, purple
Hardiness Zones 7-10
Native Area China
Toxicity Toxic to humans and animals
Chinese Foxglove Care
The prolific blooms are long-lasting and will repeat bloom for three to four months, unlike traditional foxglove. The plants might flop over as the older blooms make way for younger blossoms, so you can stake them to keep them upright if desired.
Chinese foxgloves help to light up shade gardens and that is where they grow happiest. They begin blooming as spring woodland flowers fade. They provide a nice accent to hosta, and the glossy leaves and nodding blossoms contrast well with astilbe. Because the plants can be fairly wide, give them some space when planting in a garden. Chinese foxglove can become invasive in certain areas, particularly when grown in moist, rich soil. If your plant starts to become aggressive, cut back on either food or water, to stress the plants and slow their growth.
Light
You can grow Chinese foxglove in full sun to partial shade. Although the plant prefers sun, they will still flower quite well in shade and can even handle dry shade. In full sun, they will need extra water during hot spells.
Soil
Chinese foxglove are not particular about soil pH, although they do best in a neutral pH of about 6.5-7.0. However, they do need well-draining soil: The roots will rot in soil that remains wet for extended periods. Poor-draining soil can also cause problems during the colder, winter months.
Water
For best results, water daily by using a soaker hose or drip irrigation, especially during the first year. Once established, Chinese foxglove has good drought-tolerance, but mostly in the shade. The plant can tolerate being watered just once a week, but the flowers won't be as prolific as if it is watered every day.
Temperature and Humidity
Chinese foxgloves are only hardy in USDA hardiness zones 7-10, though they grow as a perennial in zones 8-10. In zone 7, it's unpredictable and is more likely to grow as an annual.
Fertilizer
A side dressing with compost or monthly feedings will also help promote flowering. Feed the plant with liquid fertilizer during the summer months to keep the blooms growing.
Pruning
Chinese foxglove are fairly low-maintenance. Plants should be deadheaded for continual bloom.
Propagating Chinese Foxgloves
You can divide your plants in the spring, but because they spread so readily, you probably won't need to. You'll have plenty of plants and if some die out, new ones fill in.
How to Grow Chinese Foxgloves From Seed
Start Chinese foxglove seeds indoors for best results. Although they can be sown outdoors once the risk of frost has passed, the plant's small seeds can be easily overwhelmed. Sow the seeds in good potting soil in small pots, seed trays, or plug trays. Expect germination within 15-30 days, depending on temperature, and then transplant out when the plants are at least 6-inches high. You can expect the plant to bloom about 70 days after germination if conditions are right.
Overwintering
In areas colder than zone 7, you can try starting over-wintering plants indoors or grow your Chinese foxgloves in containers and move the containers to a sheltered and protected spot for winter. Make sure the containers get periodic water and allow them to drain. Lifting the container off the ground with a couple of bricks will ensure the drainage holes are not blocked by frozen ground.
In warmer climates where there will still be infrequent freezing temperatures, Chinese foxglove should be given some protection, like a thick layer of mulch, during cold winters.
Common Pests and Diseases
Although Chinese foxgloves are generally pest free, slugs and snails may munch on its leaves. Both can be treated by leaving small containers of beer around your garden.
Spring-planted seeds may not bloom the first year, but to get around this frustration, you can plant the seeds in the fall for gorgeous flowers the following summer. Although Chinese foxglove is not as hardy as its lookalike, digitalis, it is more versatile, growing well in shade and is even fairly drought-tolerant.
Botanical Name Rehmannia elata
Common Name Chinese foxglove
Plant Type Herbaceous perennial
Mature Size 2-3 ft. wide, 1.5-3 ft. wide
Sun Exposure Full sun, partial shade
Soil Type Well-draining, rich soil
Soil pH 6.5-7
Bloom Time Summer, fall
Flower Color Pink, purple
Hardiness Zones 7-10
Native Area China
Toxicity Toxic to humans and animals
Chinese Foxglove Care
The prolific blooms are long-lasting and will repeat bloom for three to four months, unlike traditional foxglove. The plants might flop over as the older blooms make way for younger blossoms, so you can stake them to keep them upright if desired.
Chinese foxgloves help to light up shade gardens and that is where they grow happiest. They begin blooming as spring woodland flowers fade. They provide a nice accent to hosta, and the glossy leaves and nodding blossoms contrast well with astilbe. Because the plants can be fairly wide, give them some space when planting in a garden. Chinese foxglove can become invasive in certain areas, particularly when grown in moist, rich soil. If your plant starts to become aggressive, cut back on either food or water, to stress the plants and slow their growth.
Light
You can grow Chinese foxglove in full sun to partial shade. Although the plant prefers sun, they will still flower quite well in shade and can even handle dry shade. In full sun, they will need extra water during hot spells.
Soil
Chinese foxglove are not particular about soil pH, although they do best in a neutral pH of about 6.5-7.0. However, they do need well-draining soil: The roots will rot in soil that remains wet for extended periods. Poor-draining soil can also cause problems during the colder, winter months.
Water
For best results, water daily by using a soaker hose or drip irrigation, especially during the first year. Once established, Chinese foxglove has good drought-tolerance, but mostly in the shade. The plant can tolerate being watered just once a week, but the flowers won't be as prolific as if it is watered every day.
Temperature and Humidity
Chinese foxgloves are only hardy in USDA hardiness zones 7-10, though they grow as a perennial in zones 8-10. In zone 7, it's unpredictable and is more likely to grow as an annual.
Fertilizer
A side dressing with compost or monthly feedings will also help promote flowering. Feed the plant with liquid fertilizer during the summer months to keep the blooms growing.
Pruning
Chinese foxglove are fairly low-maintenance. Plants should be deadheaded for continual bloom.
Propagating Chinese Foxgloves
You can divide your plants in the spring, but because they spread so readily, you probably won't need to. You'll have plenty of plants and if some die out, new ones fill in.
How to Grow Chinese Foxgloves From Seed
Start Chinese foxglove seeds indoors for best results. Although they can be sown outdoors once the risk of frost has passed, the plant's small seeds can be easily overwhelmed. Sow the seeds in good potting soil in small pots, seed trays, or plug trays. Expect germination within 15-30 days, depending on temperature, and then transplant out when the plants are at least 6-inches high. You can expect the plant to bloom about 70 days after germination if conditions are right.
Overwintering
In areas colder than zone 7, you can try starting over-wintering plants indoors or grow your Chinese foxgloves in containers and move the containers to a sheltered and protected spot for winter. Make sure the containers get periodic water and allow them to drain. Lifting the container off the ground with a couple of bricks will ensure the drainage holes are not blocked by frozen ground.
In warmer climates where there will still be infrequent freezing temperatures, Chinese foxglove should be given some protection, like a thick layer of mulch, during cold winters.
Common Pests and Diseases
Although Chinese foxgloves are generally pest free, slugs and snails may munch on its leaves. Both can be treated by leaving small containers of beer around your garden.
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文章
Miss Chen
2022年03月13日
Bonsai is the ancient Japanese art form of growing ornamental miniature or artificially dwarfed trees in containers using cultivation techniques to mimic the shape and scale of full-sized trees.
The stunning blossoms and delicate foliage of the cherry tree make it a favorite among bonsai enthusiasts and amateur growers alike.
While cherry trees are technically native to China, their blossoms have become a symbol of Japan and it is generally believed that cherry trees symbolize friendship.
Beyond their alluring appearance, cherry trees lend themselves well to the art of bonsai. They adapt well to pruning and training and are generally low-maintenance specimens.
Botanical Name Prunus Bonsai
Common Name Cherry tree bonsai
Plant Type Deciduous tree
Mature Size 10-15 inches tall
Sun Exposure Partial sun
Soil Type Well-draining, bonsai soil
Soil pH 5.5 - 6.5
Bloom Time Spring
Flower Color Pink, white
Native Area China
Cherry Tree Bonsai Care
Compared to other bonsai specimens, cherry tree bonsai require less light, and they adapt very well to training and shaping. An important part of growing and shaping a healthy pine bonsai tree is proper wiring. Wiring is the practice of wrapping a wire around the branches of the bonsai tree in order to reposition the branches to achieve a desired shape.
Cherry tree bonsai can be wired at any time of the year, although it is best done in the fall or winter months so as to not damage the delicate buds and new growth in the spring or summer months. The wiring should never be left on for more than six months at a time.
Light
Cherry tree bonsai appreciate partial sun and cannot tolerate full sun conditions as the delicate blooms and leaves can be easily burnt. A location that receives dappled morning and evening light, but is protected from the afternoon sun is best.
Soil
When it comes to the soil for cherry tree bonsai, above all else, adequate drainage is of the utmost importance. Using a commercially available bonsai soil is usually best as these potting mixtures are formulated especially for bonsai trees. Cherry tree bonsai appreciate soil that is slightly acidic with a pH between 5.5 and 6.5
Water
Cherry tree bonsai require consistently moist and humid conditions and benefit from being watered with distilled water rather than hard tap water. The soil should be kept evenly moist but never waterlogged. As a general rule, allow the top inch of soil to dry out slightly between waterings.
These trees will need to be watered more frequently during the spring and summer months when they are in their active growing period. Never allow a cherry tree bonsai to dry out completely.
Temperature and Humidity
Generally, cherry tree bonsai appreciate warm spring and summer temperatures, humidity, and cool winter temperatures. For that reason, as with most bonsai species, they are best grown outdoors throughout the year.
While they are considered moderately frost-tolerant and can tolerate short periods of freezing conditions, these trees should be protected from intense frost and harsh winter climates.
Fertilizer
Feed your cherry tree bonsai every two weeks throughout the growing season (spring and summer) with a balanced fertilizer. Older trees may require less frequent fertilizing than younger trees that are still developing. In the fall and winter, they will only need to be fertilized once throughout each season.
Pruning
Regular pruning and shaping are extremely important for the health and overall aesthetic of the cherry tree bonsai. Wait until the tree has finished blooming to begin pruning - usually in the summer months.
Pinch back any fresh shoots to shape and encourage branching, and reserve any heavy pruning of main branches or stems for the winter months.
While you want to prune the new growth, be careful that you aren’t removing all of it. Some of the new shoots should always be left to ensure that the tree can continue growing. Keep in mind that heavy pruning may cause the following year’s bloom to suffer.
Potting and Repotting
Cherry tree bonsai should be repotted every two years, although older trees can be repotted every three to five years. Repotting is best done in the spring months before the tree has bloomed.
When choosing a new pot for your cherry tree bonsai, there are several things to consider. Bonsai pots are designed to complement the appearance of the tree, provide adequate drainage, restrict root growth, and they even have wiring holes to aid in wiring the branches.
Keep in mind that, according to the rules of bonsai, a pot's height and width should not be more than ⅔ that of the tree, both for function (root restriction) and for aesthetic and design.
After you have repotted a cherry tree bonsai, ensure that it is kept in a partially sheltered location until the tree has become established. Freshly repotted cherry tree bonsai are especially susceptible to over-exposure.
Varieties of Cherry Trees for Bonsai
There are many different varieties of cherry trees that can be used for bonsai, although the most famous variety that is most associated with the stunning cherry blossoms of Japan is the Prunus serrulata (commonly called sakura). Other popular varieties include:
Prunus x yedoensis (Yoshino cherry)
Prunus ‘Kanzan’
Common Pests/Diseases
Healthy cherry tree bonsai are not susceptible to many common pests or diseases. However, keep an eye out for aphids and caterpillars, which may travel to the tree from other plants in your garden. Although they are rare, watch for diseases such as peach leaf curl, blossom wilt, and taphrina wiesneri.
The stunning blossoms and delicate foliage of the cherry tree make it a favorite among bonsai enthusiasts and amateur growers alike.
While cherry trees are technically native to China, their blossoms have become a symbol of Japan and it is generally believed that cherry trees symbolize friendship.
Beyond their alluring appearance, cherry trees lend themselves well to the art of bonsai. They adapt well to pruning and training and are generally low-maintenance specimens.
Botanical Name Prunus Bonsai
Common Name Cherry tree bonsai
Plant Type Deciduous tree
Mature Size 10-15 inches tall
Sun Exposure Partial sun
Soil Type Well-draining, bonsai soil
Soil pH 5.5 - 6.5
Bloom Time Spring
Flower Color Pink, white
Native Area China
Cherry Tree Bonsai Care
Compared to other bonsai specimens, cherry tree bonsai require less light, and they adapt very well to training and shaping. An important part of growing and shaping a healthy pine bonsai tree is proper wiring. Wiring is the practice of wrapping a wire around the branches of the bonsai tree in order to reposition the branches to achieve a desired shape.
Cherry tree bonsai can be wired at any time of the year, although it is best done in the fall or winter months so as to not damage the delicate buds and new growth in the spring or summer months. The wiring should never be left on for more than six months at a time.
Light
Cherry tree bonsai appreciate partial sun and cannot tolerate full sun conditions as the delicate blooms and leaves can be easily burnt. A location that receives dappled morning and evening light, but is protected from the afternoon sun is best.
Soil
When it comes to the soil for cherry tree bonsai, above all else, adequate drainage is of the utmost importance. Using a commercially available bonsai soil is usually best as these potting mixtures are formulated especially for bonsai trees. Cherry tree bonsai appreciate soil that is slightly acidic with a pH between 5.5 and 6.5
Water
Cherry tree bonsai require consistently moist and humid conditions and benefit from being watered with distilled water rather than hard tap water. The soil should be kept evenly moist but never waterlogged. As a general rule, allow the top inch of soil to dry out slightly between waterings.
These trees will need to be watered more frequently during the spring and summer months when they are in their active growing period. Never allow a cherry tree bonsai to dry out completely.
Temperature and Humidity
Generally, cherry tree bonsai appreciate warm spring and summer temperatures, humidity, and cool winter temperatures. For that reason, as with most bonsai species, they are best grown outdoors throughout the year.
While they are considered moderately frost-tolerant and can tolerate short periods of freezing conditions, these trees should be protected from intense frost and harsh winter climates.
Fertilizer
Feed your cherry tree bonsai every two weeks throughout the growing season (spring and summer) with a balanced fertilizer. Older trees may require less frequent fertilizing than younger trees that are still developing. In the fall and winter, they will only need to be fertilized once throughout each season.
Pruning
Regular pruning and shaping are extremely important for the health and overall aesthetic of the cherry tree bonsai. Wait until the tree has finished blooming to begin pruning - usually in the summer months.
Pinch back any fresh shoots to shape and encourage branching, and reserve any heavy pruning of main branches or stems for the winter months.
While you want to prune the new growth, be careful that you aren’t removing all of it. Some of the new shoots should always be left to ensure that the tree can continue growing. Keep in mind that heavy pruning may cause the following year’s bloom to suffer.
Potting and Repotting
Cherry tree bonsai should be repotted every two years, although older trees can be repotted every three to five years. Repotting is best done in the spring months before the tree has bloomed.
When choosing a new pot for your cherry tree bonsai, there are several things to consider. Bonsai pots are designed to complement the appearance of the tree, provide adequate drainage, restrict root growth, and they even have wiring holes to aid in wiring the branches.
Keep in mind that, according to the rules of bonsai, a pot's height and width should not be more than ⅔ that of the tree, both for function (root restriction) and for aesthetic and design.
After you have repotted a cherry tree bonsai, ensure that it is kept in a partially sheltered location until the tree has become established. Freshly repotted cherry tree bonsai are especially susceptible to over-exposure.
Varieties of Cherry Trees for Bonsai
There are many different varieties of cherry trees that can be used for bonsai, although the most famous variety that is most associated with the stunning cherry blossoms of Japan is the Prunus serrulata (commonly called sakura). Other popular varieties include:
Prunus x yedoensis (Yoshino cherry)
Prunus ‘Kanzan’
Common Pests/Diseases
Healthy cherry tree bonsai are not susceptible to many common pests or diseases. However, keep an eye out for aphids and caterpillars, which may travel to the tree from other plants in your garden. Although they are rare, watch for diseases such as peach leaf curl, blossom wilt, and taphrina wiesneri.
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文章
Miss Chen
2022年03月07日
The Celebrity tomato is a hybrid cultivar prized for its strong plants, disease and pest resistance, and robust production of fruit. If you've ever struggled growing garden or patio tomatoes that become vulnerable to pests or just don't produce very many tomatoes, the Celebrity may be a game changer for you. These tomatoes usually weigh in at half a pound each or more, and measure four inches across: the perfect size for a slicer! Its meaty texture and smooth globe shape make it a perfect sandwich tomato, but it can also be used in salads or in sauces, or chopped and simmered with fresh herbs to serve over pasta.
Among tomato-growing aficionados, this variety is known as a "semi determinate" plant, because after reaching its full height of 3-4 feet, it continues to produce fruit until frost (unlike determinate tomatoes that have a "bush" habit and finite fruiting period/single crop, or indeterminate tomato plants that continue to sprawl and produce fruit throughout their growth season (like cherry tomatoes)
Because they produce such an abundance of large fruits, these plants definitely need cages or stakes to keep them upright. Even with cages, you may find you want to use some plant ties for extra support, especially as fruits grow larger. If the vines seem too heavy with fruit you can always pluck some tomatoes just before they fully ripen, and finish ripening them in a sunny windowsill (indoors, or squirrels might start snacking on them).
Scientific Name Solanum lycopersicum, cultivar 'Celebrity'
Common Name Celebrity tomato
Plant Type Annual
Mature Size 3 to 4 ft. tall
Sun Exposure Full sun
Soil Type Fertile, well-drained
Soil pH 6.2 to 6.8
Bloom Time Early summer, fruits appear through fall
Flower Color Yellow
Hardiness Zones 5 to 8 (USDA)
Native Areas Native to Central and South America
Toxicity Green parts of plant may be toxic to dogs or cats
Growing Celebrity Tomatoes
Even inexperienced tomato growers may find this variety to be relatively trouble free. It's resistant to many pests and diseases, and has a robust growth habit. It also can be grown easily in containers, Use a large container that's at least five gallons, to give your plants plenty of root space, and make sure the container has good drainage.
Soil
Tomatoes like a rich, well-drained soil. It's important to add new soil and amendments to the garden area where tomatoes are grown each season, and to rotate nightshade crops, to benefit from optimal soil nutrition. The Celebrity tomato does best in a slightly acidic soil. You may also want to consider companion plantings best for tomatoes.
Light
Two words: full sun. Celebrity tomatoes should be grown in full sun.
Water
Watering at the base of the plant with a watering can or drip hose, instead of using a sprinkler or hose from above, is recommended to help prevent spread of blight or disease. (Rain is good too!) Water in the morning or evening on dry days, and avoid watering during the hottest part of the day in summer. Tomatoes like plenty of water, but they do not like wet feet. If your tomato plants are pot grown they will need to be watered more often. Good drainage is essential to prevent root rot and overwatering may cause leaves to turn yellow.
Temperature and Humidity
The ideal temperature for tomato plants to blossom, fruit and ripen falls in the 70 to 85 degree F. range.1 Being such a hardy plant, variations in temperature probably won't do too much damage to Celebrity tomato plants, but if a heat wave crops up, be sure to water with cool water in the morning and again in the evening so the foliage doesn't dry out. Too much humidity may increase susceptibility to mold or mildew, but the Celebrity has been bred to resist such problems. Even though Celebrity is more a bush type of plant, it is important to leave plenty of space between tomatoes planted in a row in the garden. Good air circulation will help prevent many of the disease problems that plague your plants.
Common Pests and Diseases
This hardy hybrid plant is resistant to verticillium wilt, fusarium wilt, and tobacco mosaic virus, as well as nematodes. Tomato fruits are tempting to birds and small wildlife, so you may need to protect them with netting if this is a problem in your garden.
Growing Celebrity Tomatoes from Seed
With the right set up, growing tomatoes from seed is fairly straightforward. Germination will be dependent on light, heat and moisture but most tomato seeds have a good germination rate. Use a seed starting mix and follow the instructions on the seed packet. A greenhouse is ideal for starting seeds for the vegetable and flower gardens but you can grow tomatoes from seed in a sunny windowsill. Once the seedlings emerge, they will begin to reach for the sun, so remember to turn the pots regularly to keep the plants from becoming leggy.
You will need to harden off your tomato seedlings before planting them in the garden. You can accomplish this by exposing them to outdoor temperatures for increasingly longer periods of time over a week or several days. Choose good-sized containers for transplanting your seedlings, or plant in your garden once the seedlings are at least six inches tall, and all danger of frost has passed.
Potting and Repotting
Most tomatoes grow easily in containers, with a few simple guidelines to follow, and Celebrity tomatoes are no exception. The most important tip for growing tomatoes in pots is to make sure the pots are big enough! Tomato root systems require a good amount of space and good drainage. Once transplanted a light watering will help avoid transplant shock. When you are ready to plant out in the garden, dig a deep hole and remove the seed leaves and up to several sets of lower leaves depending on the size of your seedlings. You can bury up to a third of the plant in the soil which encourages a strong root system and helps the roots take up available water.
Among tomato-growing aficionados, this variety is known as a "semi determinate" plant, because after reaching its full height of 3-4 feet, it continues to produce fruit until frost (unlike determinate tomatoes that have a "bush" habit and finite fruiting period/single crop, or indeterminate tomato plants that continue to sprawl and produce fruit throughout their growth season (like cherry tomatoes)
Because they produce such an abundance of large fruits, these plants definitely need cages or stakes to keep them upright. Even with cages, you may find you want to use some plant ties for extra support, especially as fruits grow larger. If the vines seem too heavy with fruit you can always pluck some tomatoes just before they fully ripen, and finish ripening them in a sunny windowsill (indoors, or squirrels might start snacking on them).
Scientific Name Solanum lycopersicum, cultivar 'Celebrity'
Common Name Celebrity tomato
Plant Type Annual
Mature Size 3 to 4 ft. tall
Sun Exposure Full sun
Soil Type Fertile, well-drained
Soil pH 6.2 to 6.8
Bloom Time Early summer, fruits appear through fall
Flower Color Yellow
Hardiness Zones 5 to 8 (USDA)
Native Areas Native to Central and South America
Toxicity Green parts of plant may be toxic to dogs or cats
Growing Celebrity Tomatoes
Even inexperienced tomato growers may find this variety to be relatively trouble free. It's resistant to many pests and diseases, and has a robust growth habit. It also can be grown easily in containers, Use a large container that's at least five gallons, to give your plants plenty of root space, and make sure the container has good drainage.
Soil
Tomatoes like a rich, well-drained soil. It's important to add new soil and amendments to the garden area where tomatoes are grown each season, and to rotate nightshade crops, to benefit from optimal soil nutrition. The Celebrity tomato does best in a slightly acidic soil. You may also want to consider companion plantings best for tomatoes.
Light
Two words: full sun. Celebrity tomatoes should be grown in full sun.
Water
Watering at the base of the plant with a watering can or drip hose, instead of using a sprinkler or hose from above, is recommended to help prevent spread of blight or disease. (Rain is good too!) Water in the morning or evening on dry days, and avoid watering during the hottest part of the day in summer. Tomatoes like plenty of water, but they do not like wet feet. If your tomato plants are pot grown they will need to be watered more often. Good drainage is essential to prevent root rot and overwatering may cause leaves to turn yellow.
Temperature and Humidity
The ideal temperature for tomato plants to blossom, fruit and ripen falls in the 70 to 85 degree F. range.1 Being such a hardy plant, variations in temperature probably won't do too much damage to Celebrity tomato plants, but if a heat wave crops up, be sure to water with cool water in the morning and again in the evening so the foliage doesn't dry out. Too much humidity may increase susceptibility to mold or mildew, but the Celebrity has been bred to resist such problems. Even though Celebrity is more a bush type of plant, it is important to leave plenty of space between tomatoes planted in a row in the garden. Good air circulation will help prevent many of the disease problems that plague your plants.
Common Pests and Diseases
This hardy hybrid plant is resistant to verticillium wilt, fusarium wilt, and tobacco mosaic virus, as well as nematodes. Tomato fruits are tempting to birds and small wildlife, so you may need to protect them with netting if this is a problem in your garden.
Growing Celebrity Tomatoes from Seed
With the right set up, growing tomatoes from seed is fairly straightforward. Germination will be dependent on light, heat and moisture but most tomato seeds have a good germination rate. Use a seed starting mix and follow the instructions on the seed packet. A greenhouse is ideal for starting seeds for the vegetable and flower gardens but you can grow tomatoes from seed in a sunny windowsill. Once the seedlings emerge, they will begin to reach for the sun, so remember to turn the pots regularly to keep the plants from becoming leggy.
You will need to harden off your tomato seedlings before planting them in the garden. You can accomplish this by exposing them to outdoor temperatures for increasingly longer periods of time over a week or several days. Choose good-sized containers for transplanting your seedlings, or plant in your garden once the seedlings are at least six inches tall, and all danger of frost has passed.
Potting and Repotting
Most tomatoes grow easily in containers, with a few simple guidelines to follow, and Celebrity tomatoes are no exception. The most important tip for growing tomatoes in pots is to make sure the pots are big enough! Tomato root systems require a good amount of space and good drainage. Once transplanted a light watering will help avoid transplant shock. When you are ready to plant out in the garden, dig a deep hole and remove the seed leaves and up to several sets of lower leaves depending on the size of your seedlings. You can bury up to a third of the plant in the soil which encourages a strong root system and helps the roots take up available water.
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文章
Miss Chen
2022年02月26日
Catmint (Nepeta) is a perennial herb that is a member of the mint family. It is an extremely easy-growing plant with few pests or problems. Nepeta has slightly aromatic gray-green foliage with a delicate, lacy appearance. Its billowing foliage is topped with spikes of flowers in early summer, with repeat blooms throughout the season. The flowers can be white, pink, or lavender-blue.
Most catmint varieties have a somewhat sprawling growth habit, making them nice plants for edging planting areas and for running along paths. However, there are a few tall-growing varieties, like ‘Six Hills Giant’, with a more upright habit. As with many scented, gray-foliage plants, catmint is deer-resistant. It grows quickly and, in most climates, can be planted from spring to early fall.
Botanical Name Nepeta spp.
Common Name Catmint
Plant Type Perennial
Mature Size 10 to 24 inches tall, 1 to 2 feet wide
Sun Exposure Full sun to part shade
Soil Type Dry, well-draining
Soil pH Acidic to alkaline (5.0 to 8.0)
Bloom Time Late spring, summer
Flower Color Blue, white, pink
Hardiness Zones 4 to 8 (USDA)
Native Area Europe, Asia, Africa
How to Plant Catmint
Catmint is one of those plants that thrives on neglect. Many of the newer varieties of Nepeta are sterile and produce no viable seeds. This is a plus if you don’t like the weedy, self-seeding habit of older catmint varieties, but it means you will need to either buy plants or make plants from divisions or cuttings.
Choose a sunny spot with well-draining soil. A lean soil and somewhat dry growing conditions will encourage both more flowers and a stronger scent. Too much fertilizer will only make the plant grow lots of flimsy foliage.
As with most plants, the mature size of catmint depends on the variety you are growing. Most catmints are floppy, bushy plants that mature at about 10 to 24 inches tall and 12 to 24 inches wide. However, there are some varieties that are more compact, and there are others that will grow 4 feet tall and 3 feet wide. New catmint varieties are being introduced regularly, so the best thing to do is to shop around and read the plant description before you buy.
Expect your Nepeta to start blooming in early summer with repeat blooms throughout the growing season. Deadheading or shearing your plants will give you stockier plants and a lush second bloom.
Light
You will get the best flowering if you plant your catmint in full sun, however, the plants will also grow well in partial shade.
Soil
Humus-rich, well-draining soil is ideal. Many species grow easily in a wide range of soil types, including dry clay and sandy or rocky soil.
Water
First-year plants need frequent watering, but once rooted, catmints are drought-tolerant.
Temperature and Humidity
Catmints like cool temperatures and benefit from afternoon shade in warm climates. They are often not tolerant of high heat and humidity.
Fertilizer
Add compost to the plant’s base in the fall, but once rooted it needs no further fertilization.
Catmint Varieties
'Six Hills Giant’Nepeta x faassenii is one of the tallest-growing Nepetas and has lavender-blue flowers. It grows up to 36 inches tall and 30 inches wide, so be sure to give it plenty of room in your garden.
Nepeta subsessilis ‘Sweet Dreams' features pink flowers with burgundy bracts. This variety likes a bit more water than most Nepetas. It grows to 2 feet tall and 3 feet wide.
Nepeta racemosa ‘Walker’s Low’ has lavender-blue flowers with 8-inch spikes. This 2007 Perennial Plant of the Year reaches 2 feet tall and 2 feet wide and is one of the hardiest and most reliable Nepetas.
Nepeta recemosa 'Little Titch' is a dwarf variety with pale blue flowers. It is just as long-blooming as many of its larger cousins, but its growth stops at about 8 to 10 inches tall and 15 inches wide.
Catmint vs. Catnip
Catnip (Nepeta cataria) is a type of catmint and is arguably the best-known species in the Nepeta genus, at least among home gardeners. It's not the only type of catmint that makes cats loopy, but it's your best bet if that's your goal. Catnip has similar growing and care needs to other catmint plants and matures at 2 to 4 feet tall and 2 to 3 feet wide. It blooms from May to September and has white flowers spotted with pale purple. Catnip is relatively cold-hardy and grows well in zones 3 to 9.
Pruning
Most catmints will repeat-bloom if they are sheared back after their initial flowering. Some won’t provide much of a second show, but their foliage will be refreshed and tidied by the shearing.
Propagating Catmint
Catmint plants will continue to grow and bloom well for years. But if you’d like to divide them to make more plants, all Nepeta varieties respond well to division in the spring. Find a section of the plant with undeveloped shoots and a good root system, and slice it vertically with a spade. Replant the division, and keep watering it until it becomes established.
Landscape Uses for Catmint
Catmint is a classic choice for planting under roses. The pale colors of catmint complement most roses, and the soft, frilly foliage hides the ugly "knees" of the rose bush. Catmint is also a wonderful plant for edging, where it softens hard lines. Catmint plants will gracefully spill over walls and walkways and are great for providing contrast to spiky plants like iris and yucca.
The pastel blues of many catmint flowers pair well with pink and yellow flowers, such as those of daylilies and yarrow (Achillea). Because of its similarity to lavender plants, catmint is often used as a replacement in areas where lavender does not grow well.
Most catmint varieties have a somewhat sprawling growth habit, making them nice plants for edging planting areas and for running along paths. However, there are a few tall-growing varieties, like ‘Six Hills Giant’, with a more upright habit. As with many scented, gray-foliage plants, catmint is deer-resistant. It grows quickly and, in most climates, can be planted from spring to early fall.
Botanical Name Nepeta spp.
Common Name Catmint
Plant Type Perennial
Mature Size 10 to 24 inches tall, 1 to 2 feet wide
Sun Exposure Full sun to part shade
Soil Type Dry, well-draining
Soil pH Acidic to alkaline (5.0 to 8.0)
Bloom Time Late spring, summer
Flower Color Blue, white, pink
Hardiness Zones 4 to 8 (USDA)
Native Area Europe, Asia, Africa
How to Plant Catmint
Catmint is one of those plants that thrives on neglect. Many of the newer varieties of Nepeta are sterile and produce no viable seeds. This is a plus if you don’t like the weedy, self-seeding habit of older catmint varieties, but it means you will need to either buy plants or make plants from divisions or cuttings.
Choose a sunny spot with well-draining soil. A lean soil and somewhat dry growing conditions will encourage both more flowers and a stronger scent. Too much fertilizer will only make the plant grow lots of flimsy foliage.
As with most plants, the mature size of catmint depends on the variety you are growing. Most catmints are floppy, bushy plants that mature at about 10 to 24 inches tall and 12 to 24 inches wide. However, there are some varieties that are more compact, and there are others that will grow 4 feet tall and 3 feet wide. New catmint varieties are being introduced regularly, so the best thing to do is to shop around and read the plant description before you buy.
Expect your Nepeta to start blooming in early summer with repeat blooms throughout the growing season. Deadheading or shearing your plants will give you stockier plants and a lush second bloom.
Light
You will get the best flowering if you plant your catmint in full sun, however, the plants will also grow well in partial shade.
Soil
Humus-rich, well-draining soil is ideal. Many species grow easily in a wide range of soil types, including dry clay and sandy or rocky soil.
Water
First-year plants need frequent watering, but once rooted, catmints are drought-tolerant.
Temperature and Humidity
Catmints like cool temperatures and benefit from afternoon shade in warm climates. They are often not tolerant of high heat and humidity.
Fertilizer
Add compost to the plant’s base in the fall, but once rooted it needs no further fertilization.
Catmint Varieties
'Six Hills Giant’Nepeta x faassenii is one of the tallest-growing Nepetas and has lavender-blue flowers. It grows up to 36 inches tall and 30 inches wide, so be sure to give it plenty of room in your garden.
Nepeta subsessilis ‘Sweet Dreams' features pink flowers with burgundy bracts. This variety likes a bit more water than most Nepetas. It grows to 2 feet tall and 3 feet wide.
Nepeta racemosa ‘Walker’s Low’ has lavender-blue flowers with 8-inch spikes. This 2007 Perennial Plant of the Year reaches 2 feet tall and 2 feet wide and is one of the hardiest and most reliable Nepetas.
Nepeta recemosa 'Little Titch' is a dwarf variety with pale blue flowers. It is just as long-blooming as many of its larger cousins, but its growth stops at about 8 to 10 inches tall and 15 inches wide.
Catmint vs. Catnip
Catnip (Nepeta cataria) is a type of catmint and is arguably the best-known species in the Nepeta genus, at least among home gardeners. It's not the only type of catmint that makes cats loopy, but it's your best bet if that's your goal. Catnip has similar growing and care needs to other catmint plants and matures at 2 to 4 feet tall and 2 to 3 feet wide. It blooms from May to September and has white flowers spotted with pale purple. Catnip is relatively cold-hardy and grows well in zones 3 to 9.
Pruning
Most catmints will repeat-bloom if they are sheared back after their initial flowering. Some won’t provide much of a second show, but their foliage will be refreshed and tidied by the shearing.
Propagating Catmint
Catmint plants will continue to grow and bloom well for years. But if you’d like to divide them to make more plants, all Nepeta varieties respond well to division in the spring. Find a section of the plant with undeveloped shoots and a good root system, and slice it vertically with a spade. Replant the division, and keep watering it until it becomes established.
Landscape Uses for Catmint
Catmint is a classic choice for planting under roses. The pale colors of catmint complement most roses, and the soft, frilly foliage hides the ugly "knees" of the rose bush. Catmint is also a wonderful plant for edging, where it softens hard lines. Catmint plants will gracefully spill over walls and walkways and are great for providing contrast to spiky plants like iris and yucca.
The pastel blues of many catmint flowers pair well with pink and yellow flowers, such as those of daylilies and yarrow (Achillea). Because of its similarity to lavender plants, catmint is often used as a replacement in areas where lavender does not grow well.
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文章
Miss Chen
2022年02月21日
The cast-iron plant (Aspidistra elatior) has earned its reputation as a hard-to-kill houseplant, along with being a beautiful outdoor foliage plant within its growing zones. This plant can survive lots of neglect and growing conditions that will kill many other plants, such as low light conditions. It has arching, lance-shaped, deep green, glossy leaves that can reach around 2 feet long and 4 inches wide. When grown outdoors, it sometimes produces insignificant cream and purple flowers near the base of the plant, but the blossoms usually do not appear when the plant is grown indoors. The cast-iron plant has a fairly slow growth rate, and spring is generally the best time to plant it.
Common Name Cast-iron plant, bar room plant
Botanical Name Aspidistra elatior
Family Asparagaceae
Plant Type Perennial, herbaceous
Mature Size 2–3 ft. tall, 1–2 ft. wide
Sun Exposure Partial, shade
Soil Type Well-drained
Soil pH Acidic, neutral
Bloom Time Spring, summer
Flower Color White/purple
Hardiness Zones 8–10, USA
Native Area Asia
Cast-Iron Plant Care
For a gardener with a brown thumb, this sturdy, long-lasting plant can be used in areas where all else fails. It is always green and can handle deep shade under deck stairs or along foundations that receive almost no sunlight. Plus, insects usually leave it alone, and it very rarely is bothered by disease.
Cast-iron plants require very simple maintenance: watering when the soil dries out and fertilizing for part of the year. Most mistakes that occur with these plants involve overwatering (they dislike waterlogged soil) or placing them in direct sunlight. With cast-iron plants, a fairly hands-off approach is typically best.
Light
Keep cast-iron plants away from direct sunlight, which can bleach and burn the leaves. If you're keeping one as a houseplant, a north-facing window is ideal. Set it slightly back from windows that get strong light to avoid direct sun. When growing cast-iron plants outdoors, place them in a shady area with indirect sunlight.
Soil
Cast-iron plants tolerate a wide range of soils, as long as they have good drainage. They prefer organically rich soil with a slightly acidic to neutral soil pH. Outdoors, they can grow in sandy, loamy, and even clay soils. For container plants, simply use a standard quality potting mix.
Water
While these plants have some drought tolerance, they like a moderate amount of soil moisture. Water young cast-iron plants regularly to keep the soil lightly moist but not soggy. Soil that remains wet for too long can cause root rot. Water established plants deeply, and then let the soil dry out a few inches down before watering again. A good general rule is to water when you can stick your finger in the soil and not feel any dampness.
Temperature and Humidity
Cast-iron plants prefer temperatures between 60 and 75 degrees Fahrenheit. They are not hardy to cold, and temperatures that drop below 50 degrees Fahrenheit can damage or kill them. So if you're growing your plant in a container outdoors, be sure to take it inside well before the threat of frost. Moreover, cast-iron plants like a moderate humidity level, but it's not a necessity for healthy growth.
Fertilizer
Feed your cast-iron plant once a month with an all-purpose liquid fertilizer during the spring and summer months, following label instructions, or use a slow-release fertilizer in the spring. It's not necessary to fertilize during the fall and winter months. Only apply fertilizer after watering the plant to avoid burning the roots.
Types of Cast-Iron Plants
There are several varieties of cast-iron plants, including:
'Variegata': This cultivar features green leaves with white stripes.
'Asahi': This variety's green leaves develop white tips as they grow.
'Hoshi-zora': This plant's name translates to starry sky, and its green leaves are speckled with yellow to white dots.
'Lennon's Song': The leaves on this variety have light green or yellow stripes.
Propagating Cast-Iron Plants
Cast-iron plants can be propagated by division. Not only does this give you a new plant for less than it would cost at a nursery, but division also prevents mature plants from becoming overcrowded.
To start a new plant, take a piece of the rhizome (underground stem) that includes at least two leaves. Plant this piece either in a pot with fresh potting mix or directly in the ground. Keep the soil lightly moist, but ensure that it has good drainage. Also, make sure the new plant stays warm but isn't in direct sunlight. Once you see new shoots develop, you'll know your new cast-iron plant has developed its root system and its hardiness. Then, you can begin to treat it like an established plant.
Potting and Repotting Cast-Iron Plants
When growing cast-iron plants in containers, it's key to use a pot with ample drainage holes. An unglazed clay container also is ideal because it will allow excess soil moisture to escape through its walls. Select a pot that's just slightly larger than the root ball to start, as these slow-growing plants won't outgrow their containers quickly.
Once you see roots growing out of the soil, you'll know it's time to repot your cast-iron plant into something slightly larger. This might not happen for three to five years. Ideally, try to repot in the springtime, and select one container size up. Gently remove your plant from its old pot, and place it at the same depth in the new pot with fresh potting mix.
Common Pests
Cast-iron plants do not often succumb to pest or disease problems, especially when grown in their natural environment. As houseplants, they can be slightly susceptible to common houseplant pests, including mites and scale. Rinsing the foliage can help to dislodge the pests and control a minor infestation. For more severe infestations, consider an insecticidal soap or horticultural oil.
Common Problems With Cast-Iron Plants
Cast-iron plants have very few problems as long as they're grown in their preferred conditions. But some common issues can arise when the environment isn't to their liking.
Browning Tips
Brown leaf tips are commonly due to overwatering or underwatering, especially with cast-iron plants grown in containers. Always check the soil moisture before watering, and wait to water until the soil is dry a few inches down. Also, ensure that excess water is able to drain out of the container.
Leaves Turning Brown
Parts of or even entire leaves turning brown on cast-iron plants is often the result of too much sunlight. Check your plant throughout the day to make sure direct sun is never hitting it, and relocate it if necessary. Drafts indoors, especially from air-conditioning vents, and cold temperatures outdoors also can cause browning foliage. Make sure your plant is protected from temperature extremes.
FAQ
Do cast-iron plants need sun?
Cast-iron plants must stay out of direct sunlight, but they do need some indirect sun to grow.
Are cast-iron plants easy to care for?
Cast-iron plants are extremely hardy and require little maintenance to keep them looking their best.
How fast do cast-iron plants grow?
The cast-iron plant grows slowly and can take several years to reach its mature size.
Common Name Cast-iron plant, bar room plant
Botanical Name Aspidistra elatior
Family Asparagaceae
Plant Type Perennial, herbaceous
Mature Size 2–3 ft. tall, 1–2 ft. wide
Sun Exposure Partial, shade
Soil Type Well-drained
Soil pH Acidic, neutral
Bloom Time Spring, summer
Flower Color White/purple
Hardiness Zones 8–10, USA
Native Area Asia
Cast-Iron Plant Care
For a gardener with a brown thumb, this sturdy, long-lasting plant can be used in areas where all else fails. It is always green and can handle deep shade under deck stairs or along foundations that receive almost no sunlight. Plus, insects usually leave it alone, and it very rarely is bothered by disease.
Cast-iron plants require very simple maintenance: watering when the soil dries out and fertilizing for part of the year. Most mistakes that occur with these plants involve overwatering (they dislike waterlogged soil) or placing them in direct sunlight. With cast-iron plants, a fairly hands-off approach is typically best.
Light
Keep cast-iron plants away from direct sunlight, which can bleach and burn the leaves. If you're keeping one as a houseplant, a north-facing window is ideal. Set it slightly back from windows that get strong light to avoid direct sun. When growing cast-iron plants outdoors, place them in a shady area with indirect sunlight.
Soil
Cast-iron plants tolerate a wide range of soils, as long as they have good drainage. They prefer organically rich soil with a slightly acidic to neutral soil pH. Outdoors, they can grow in sandy, loamy, and even clay soils. For container plants, simply use a standard quality potting mix.
Water
While these plants have some drought tolerance, they like a moderate amount of soil moisture. Water young cast-iron plants regularly to keep the soil lightly moist but not soggy. Soil that remains wet for too long can cause root rot. Water established plants deeply, and then let the soil dry out a few inches down before watering again. A good general rule is to water when you can stick your finger in the soil and not feel any dampness.
Temperature and Humidity
Cast-iron plants prefer temperatures between 60 and 75 degrees Fahrenheit. They are not hardy to cold, and temperatures that drop below 50 degrees Fahrenheit can damage or kill them. So if you're growing your plant in a container outdoors, be sure to take it inside well before the threat of frost. Moreover, cast-iron plants like a moderate humidity level, but it's not a necessity for healthy growth.
Fertilizer
Feed your cast-iron plant once a month with an all-purpose liquid fertilizer during the spring and summer months, following label instructions, or use a slow-release fertilizer in the spring. It's not necessary to fertilize during the fall and winter months. Only apply fertilizer after watering the plant to avoid burning the roots.
Types of Cast-Iron Plants
There are several varieties of cast-iron plants, including:
'Variegata': This cultivar features green leaves with white stripes.
'Asahi': This variety's green leaves develop white tips as they grow.
'Hoshi-zora': This plant's name translates to starry sky, and its green leaves are speckled with yellow to white dots.
'Lennon's Song': The leaves on this variety have light green or yellow stripes.
Propagating Cast-Iron Plants
Cast-iron plants can be propagated by division. Not only does this give you a new plant for less than it would cost at a nursery, but division also prevents mature plants from becoming overcrowded.
To start a new plant, take a piece of the rhizome (underground stem) that includes at least two leaves. Plant this piece either in a pot with fresh potting mix or directly in the ground. Keep the soil lightly moist, but ensure that it has good drainage. Also, make sure the new plant stays warm but isn't in direct sunlight. Once you see new shoots develop, you'll know your new cast-iron plant has developed its root system and its hardiness. Then, you can begin to treat it like an established plant.
Potting and Repotting Cast-Iron Plants
When growing cast-iron plants in containers, it's key to use a pot with ample drainage holes. An unglazed clay container also is ideal because it will allow excess soil moisture to escape through its walls. Select a pot that's just slightly larger than the root ball to start, as these slow-growing plants won't outgrow their containers quickly.
Once you see roots growing out of the soil, you'll know it's time to repot your cast-iron plant into something slightly larger. This might not happen for three to five years. Ideally, try to repot in the springtime, and select one container size up. Gently remove your plant from its old pot, and place it at the same depth in the new pot with fresh potting mix.
Common Pests
Cast-iron plants do not often succumb to pest or disease problems, especially when grown in their natural environment. As houseplants, they can be slightly susceptible to common houseplant pests, including mites and scale. Rinsing the foliage can help to dislodge the pests and control a minor infestation. For more severe infestations, consider an insecticidal soap or horticultural oil.
Common Problems With Cast-Iron Plants
Cast-iron plants have very few problems as long as they're grown in their preferred conditions. But some common issues can arise when the environment isn't to their liking.
Browning Tips
Brown leaf tips are commonly due to overwatering or underwatering, especially with cast-iron plants grown in containers. Always check the soil moisture before watering, and wait to water until the soil is dry a few inches down. Also, ensure that excess water is able to drain out of the container.
Leaves Turning Brown
Parts of or even entire leaves turning brown on cast-iron plants is often the result of too much sunlight. Check your plant throughout the day to make sure direct sun is never hitting it, and relocate it if necessary. Drafts indoors, especially from air-conditioning vents, and cold temperatures outdoors also can cause browning foliage. Make sure your plant is protected from temperature extremes.
FAQ
Do cast-iron plants need sun?
Cast-iron plants must stay out of direct sunlight, but they do need some indirect sun to grow.
Are cast-iron plants easy to care for?
Cast-iron plants are extremely hardy and require little maintenance to keep them looking their best.
How fast do cast-iron plants grow?
The cast-iron plant grows slowly and can take several years to reach its mature size.
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文章
Miss Chen
2022年01月23日
Growing cannas in your garden is an easy way to create instant tropical flair. Cannas are tropical and subtropical flowering plants with large, banana-like leaves. Cannas' popularity and active hybridizing have resulted in a dazzling array of cannas to choose from, many with large, showy flowers and variegated leaves that look like stained glass when the sun shines through them.
Striking flowers notwithstanding, cannas are often grown for their foliage alone. The large, paddle-like leaves come in a range of greens and blue-greens and can have variegation and stripes. Somewhat tubular and lily-like, Canna flowers come in shades and combinations of yellow, orange, red, and pink and are borne on tall stalks poking out of the foliage. Rhizomes planted in spring after the last frost will take a few weeks to sprout but will then grow at a rapid pace and may even flower in the first year.
Because most Cannas sold today are the result of many crosses, Cannas are rarely classified and are simply considered hybrids.
Botanical Name Canna × generalis
Common Name Canna lily
Plant Type Annual flower (in most zones)
Mature Size 18 inches to 10 feet tall and 1.5 to 6 feet wide
Sun Exposure Full sun
Soil Type Rich, moist
Soil pH 6.0 to 6.5
Bloom Time Summer
Flower Color Yellow, orange, red, pink
Hardiness Zones 8 to 11
Native Area Tropics
How to Grow Canna Plants
In planting zones 8 and up, cannas will repeat-bloom throughout summer, and throughout the year in zones 9 and above. For everyone else, there are three options: You can let them die off each fall and start with fresh rhizomes in the spring; you can pot the plants and bring them indoors to live as houseplants; or you can dig up and store the rhizomes for the winter (and replant them in spring).
Canna leaves are covered with a waxy substance that repels water and protects against fungus. They may be bothered by rust or bacterial blight especially in poorly drained soils. Pest problems can include leaf rollers and caterpillars while slugs and snails may munch on the leaves.
Light
Cannas do best in full sun. This means they may need more water in really hot climates, but they need heat to spur their growth. In the hottest area, some afternoon shade helps flowers last longer.
Soil
Plant cannas in rich, moist soil, ideally with a slightly acid to neutral soil pH.
Water
Cannas need consistent water and evenly moist soil. Water often, especially in extreme heat. Insufficient water will cause the leaves to tear or crack.
Temperature and Humidity
Blooming depends on the climate and weather. In areas with cool springs, the plants may be slow to get started. Potting them up indoors, before your last frost date, and moving them out while they are already growing, will help them bloom earlier. As tropical plants, cannas prefer humid air but can tolerate relative dryness, especially if they are properly watered.
Fertilizer
In addition to needing lots of water, cannas are hungry plants, although they store some food in their rhizomes. Feed them in early spring and midsummer, using a balanced fertilizer.
Propagating Canna Plants
Since most of the newer varieties are hybrids, canna lilies are generally grown from rhizomes rather than seed. If you live in a climate with frost and would like to preserve outdoor plants for the next season, cut the foliage and stem to 6 inches. Then, dig the rhizomes and let them dry in a protected, shady spot. When dry, shake off the excess soil, wrap the rhizomes in newspaper, and store them in a dark, cool location until spring. Check on them periodically to make sure they are not rotting or drying out.
The size and amount of blooms of cannas are linked to the number of "eyes" on a rhizome. The more eyes, the bigger plant and better blooms. Look for rhizomes with 3-5 eyes, and plant them in spring with the eyes facing up 4 to 5 inches deep. Or, if you'd like to get a head start on the season, pot them up indoors, four to six weeks before your last frost, and move them out once the temperature warms. Keep the rhizomes moist but not soaking wet.
Varieties of Cannas
'Lucifer': red flowers with yellow borders; green leaves; 2 feet tall
'The President': scarlet blossoms; green leaves; 3 to 3.5 feet tall
'Pretoria' ('Bengal Tiger'): orange flowers; yellow and green striped foliage; 4 to 6 feet tall
'Stuttgart': orange flowers; green and white variegated foliage; 3 to 4 feet tall
'Tropicanna': dark variegated leaves with large, orange flowers; also comes in Black and Gold; 4 to 6 feet tall
Pruning
To keep your plants flowering throughout the season, deadhead them as the blooms start to fade. If you prefer to grow cannas for their foliage alone, you can cut back the flower stalks before they even have a chance to bloom.
Landscape Uses
Cannas can't help but be focal points. A single specimen can anchor a circle garden. Planted in a mass, they can look both tropical and Victorian. The colors and tropical feel combine well with other "hot" colors.
There's even a variety of canna that grows in extremely wet soil--or even in water gardens. This plant is a hybrid of Canna glauca. They look gorgeous in bog gardens, or can be planted in baskets in water gardens.
Striking flowers notwithstanding, cannas are often grown for their foliage alone. The large, paddle-like leaves come in a range of greens and blue-greens and can have variegation and stripes. Somewhat tubular and lily-like, Canna flowers come in shades and combinations of yellow, orange, red, and pink and are borne on tall stalks poking out of the foliage. Rhizomes planted in spring after the last frost will take a few weeks to sprout but will then grow at a rapid pace and may even flower in the first year.
Because most Cannas sold today are the result of many crosses, Cannas are rarely classified and are simply considered hybrids.
Botanical Name Canna × generalis
Common Name Canna lily
Plant Type Annual flower (in most zones)
Mature Size 18 inches to 10 feet tall and 1.5 to 6 feet wide
Sun Exposure Full sun
Soil Type Rich, moist
Soil pH 6.0 to 6.5
Bloom Time Summer
Flower Color Yellow, orange, red, pink
Hardiness Zones 8 to 11
Native Area Tropics
How to Grow Canna Plants
In planting zones 8 and up, cannas will repeat-bloom throughout summer, and throughout the year in zones 9 and above. For everyone else, there are three options: You can let them die off each fall and start with fresh rhizomes in the spring; you can pot the plants and bring them indoors to live as houseplants; or you can dig up and store the rhizomes for the winter (and replant them in spring).
Canna leaves are covered with a waxy substance that repels water and protects against fungus. They may be bothered by rust or bacterial blight especially in poorly drained soils. Pest problems can include leaf rollers and caterpillars while slugs and snails may munch on the leaves.
Light
Cannas do best in full sun. This means they may need more water in really hot climates, but they need heat to spur their growth. In the hottest area, some afternoon shade helps flowers last longer.
Soil
Plant cannas in rich, moist soil, ideally with a slightly acid to neutral soil pH.
Water
Cannas need consistent water and evenly moist soil. Water often, especially in extreme heat. Insufficient water will cause the leaves to tear or crack.
Temperature and Humidity
Blooming depends on the climate and weather. In areas with cool springs, the plants may be slow to get started. Potting them up indoors, before your last frost date, and moving them out while they are already growing, will help them bloom earlier. As tropical plants, cannas prefer humid air but can tolerate relative dryness, especially if they are properly watered.
Fertilizer
In addition to needing lots of water, cannas are hungry plants, although they store some food in their rhizomes. Feed them in early spring and midsummer, using a balanced fertilizer.
Propagating Canna Plants
Since most of the newer varieties are hybrids, canna lilies are generally grown from rhizomes rather than seed. If you live in a climate with frost and would like to preserve outdoor plants for the next season, cut the foliage and stem to 6 inches. Then, dig the rhizomes and let them dry in a protected, shady spot. When dry, shake off the excess soil, wrap the rhizomes in newspaper, and store them in a dark, cool location until spring. Check on them periodically to make sure they are not rotting or drying out.
The size and amount of blooms of cannas are linked to the number of "eyes" on a rhizome. The more eyes, the bigger plant and better blooms. Look for rhizomes with 3-5 eyes, and plant them in spring with the eyes facing up 4 to 5 inches deep. Or, if you'd like to get a head start on the season, pot them up indoors, four to six weeks before your last frost, and move them out once the temperature warms. Keep the rhizomes moist but not soaking wet.
Varieties of Cannas
'Lucifer': red flowers with yellow borders; green leaves; 2 feet tall
'The President': scarlet blossoms; green leaves; 3 to 3.5 feet tall
'Pretoria' ('Bengal Tiger'): orange flowers; yellow and green striped foliage; 4 to 6 feet tall
'Stuttgart': orange flowers; green and white variegated foliage; 3 to 4 feet tall
'Tropicanna': dark variegated leaves with large, orange flowers; also comes in Black and Gold; 4 to 6 feet tall
Pruning
To keep your plants flowering throughout the season, deadhead them as the blooms start to fade. If you prefer to grow cannas for their foliage alone, you can cut back the flower stalks before they even have a chance to bloom.
Landscape Uses
Cannas can't help but be focal points. A single specimen can anchor a circle garden. Planted in a mass, they can look both tropical and Victorian. The colors and tropical feel combine well with other "hot" colors.
There's even a variety of canna that grows in extremely wet soil--or even in water gardens. This plant is a hybrid of Canna glauca. They look gorgeous in bog gardens, or can be planted in baskets in water gardens.
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Miss Chen
2022年01月07日
Calibrachoa, also known as million bells, is one of the most popular plants for growing outdoors in containers. It comes in a rainbow of colors, in solids and two-tones, stripes, patterns, and stunning double blooms. Calibrachoa is a prolific bloomer and produces 1-inch blossoms that resemble tiny petunias. The compact leaves are oval-shaped and a bit sticky.
In most growing zones, million bells is best planted or repotted in the spring. It can bloom continuously through the growing season, and its flowers attract butterflies and hummingbirds. It's also a fast grower and quickly reaches toward the ground as a "spiller" when grown as a container plant. Because of its trailing habit, it looks great in hanging baskets, bowls, or mixed containers.
Common Name Calibrachoa, million bells, trailing petunia, mini petunia
Botanical Name Calibrachoa group
Family Solanaceae
Plant Type Herbaceous perennial flower often grown as an annual
Mature Size 6–12 in. tall, 12–24 in. wide
Sun Exposure Full sun to part shade
Soil Type Moist, rich, well-drained
Soil pH 5.0–6.5 (acidic)
Bloom Time Spring to fall
Flower Color Coral, yellow, orange, red, pink, blue, purple, burgundy, lavender, cream
Hardiness Zones 9–11 (USDA); grown as an annual in all zones
Native Area South America
Calibrachoa Care
Although it is a short-lived perennial in very warm climates, Calibrachoa is grown almost everywhere as an annual. The plant is not hard to care for, but paying attention to its needs will keep it blooming from spring well into fall. While it can be planted in garden beds, the plant fares much better in containers.
This is considered a “self-cleaning” plant, meaning it doesn’t need to be deadheaded to keep blooming; however, it will benefit from a serious cutting back toward the end of summer. Deer don't seem very interested in Calibrachoa, although it is not classified as deer-resistant.
Light
The plant blooms best with at least six hours of full sun, but it can tolerate partial shade—especially in warmer areas, where plants that get some shade are likelier to survive through the summer months. Insufficient sun exposure typically results in reduced blooming.
Soil
Calibrachoa likes fast-draining potting soil, so make sure your pot has good drainage. When planting in garden beds, amend with organic material to ensure richness, and make sure the soil drains well. Mulch is recommended to keep the soil moist and the root system cool.
Water
Calibrachoa needs to be kept well hydrated but not water-logged. Add water only after the top inch or so of the soil dries out. To check if your plant needs water, stick your finger into the soil up to the second knuckle. If the soil feels dry at your fingertip, water deeply until it drains out of the bottom of your pot. Don’t water again until the soil dries out again.
Heat, wind, and lack of humidity can cause your soil to dry out quickly. Depending on your conditions, you may have to water as often as twice a day. Check the soil frequently, especially at the beginning of the season, until you get to know your plant's needs; watering requirements may change as the summer heats up. Take care not to overwater the plant, as this can encourage root rot.
Temperature and Humidity
The plant is pretty drought- and heat-tolerant, and even cold-tolerant, but to get the best blooms, don’t let it dry out repeatedly. It prefers temperatures between 55 and 65 degrees Fahrenheit. A hardened-off plant can be brought outdoors in the spring months and it can tolerate a mild frost. At the other end of the spectrum, hot weather and dryness can be stressful to the plant. You can revive wilted foliage with a daily misting, but be careful not to mist in direct sun, as this can burn the leaves.
Fertilizer
This plant is a heavy feeder that can be fed with a slow-release fertilizer and/or a diluted liquid fertilizer regularly. For example, you can start with an organic, slow-release fertilizer mixed into your potting medium, and then give the plant a diluted liquid every couple of weeks throughout the season. Feeding is particularly necessary near the end of the season to promote late blooms. Be careful not to over-fertilize—follow the directions on the label of the plant food closely. Leaves turning light green or yellowish is a sign that the plant needs fertilizer, or possibly more sun.
Types of Calibrachoa
There are 28 different species in the Calibrachoa genus, but those used for garden cultivation are generally complicated hybrids derived from crossing various species. There are dozens of varieties of Calibrachoa available in a vast array of colors, including:
Calibrachoa 'Cabaret Hot Pink' produces loads of bright pink flowers on trailing stems up to 8 inches long.
C. 'Cabaret Purple Glow' grows 12 inches wide and trails to 8 inches.
C. 'Million Bells Terra Cotta' has orange flowers streaked with red and gold on stems trailing to 8 inches.
C. 'MiniFamous Double Blue' has double flowers of deep blue-purple on a trailing plant with 10-inch-long stems.
C. 'Superbells Pomegranate Punch' has velvety-red flowers that get darker toward the center and grows 8 inches tall.
C. 'Kabloom' is a series of hybrid plants that can be grown from seed and they are available in pink, white, red, yellow, and deep blue.
Propagating Calibrachoa
Calibrachoa plants grown in gardens are hybrids that produce few seeds. And because many of the varieties are trademarked hybrids, vegetative propagation through cuttings is technically illegal. If you do attempt to propagate through cuttings, the process is as follows:
Try to find a stem that has small buds but no flowers on it. Using a clean, sharp cutting tool, cut off the stem at least 6 inches from the tip, then remove any lower leaves.
Place your cuttings in an equal mix of half potting soil and half peat moss. Water well.
Set the pot under bright light, and keep the cuttings moist and warm (about 70 degrees Fahrenheit). Roots should begin to develop within a couple of weeks.
Potting and Repotting Calibrachoa
Most million bells plants are badly root-bound when you buy them—so much so that there is very little soil left in the pot. This means that your margin of error for watering is very slim and there isn’t much nutrition for the plants to use. If you repot the plant from its original container, be sure to loosen the root ball and add a slow-release fertilizer into a general-purpose potting mix. These are short-lived plants that won't require any more repotting. These spiller plants can live in a container of any material, but make sure there are plenty of drainage holes.
Common Pests
Calibrachoa plants are extremely susceptible to aphids. Spray aphids off the plant with water, a water and dish detergent mix, or neem oil.
Common Problems With Million Bells
Besides battling aphids, the most common problem you'll encounter with the otherwise easy-going Calibrachoa plant is yellowing leaves. There are a few reasons for yellowing leaves:
Iron deficiency (new growth will yellow)
Nitrogen deficiency (old growth will yellow)
Root rot
Root rot or mold infection can set in if these plants are overwatered. (Plants that wilt after watering may be suffering from root rot.) The best defense is to prevent these issues through good air circulation, proper water management, and good soil porosity.Light
The plant blooms best with at least six hours of full sun, but it can tolerate partial shade—especially in warmer areas, where plants that get some shade are likelier to survive through the summer months. Insufficient sun exposure typically results in reduced blooming.
Soil
Calibrachoa likes fast-draining potting soil, so make sure your pot has good drainage. When planting in garden beds, amend with organic material to ensure richness, and make sure the soil drains well. Mulch is recommended to keep the soil moist and the root system cool.
Water
Calibrachoa needs to be kept well hydrated but not water-logged. Add water only after the top inch or so of the soil dries out. To check if your plant needs water, stick your finger into the soil up to the second knuckle. If the soil feels dry at your fingertip, water deeply until it drains out of the bottom of your pot. Don’t water again until the soil dries out again.
Heat, wind, and lack of humidity can cause your soil to dry out quickly. Depending on your conditions, you may have to water as often as twice a day. Check the soil frequently, especially at the beginning of the season, until you get to know your plant's needs; watering requirements may change as the summer heats up. Take care not to overwater the plant, as this can encourage root rot.
Temperature and Humidity
The plant is pretty drought- and heat-tolerant, and even cold-tolerant, but to get the best blooms, don’t let it dry out repeatedly. It prefers temperatures between 55 and 65 degrees Fahrenheit. A hardened-off plant can be brought outdoors in the spring months and it can tolerate a mild frost. At the other end of the spectrum, hot weather and dryness can be stressful to the plant. You can revive wilted foliage with a daily misting, but be careful not to mist in direct sun, as this can burn the leaves.
Fertilizer
This plant is a heavy feeder that can be fed with a slow-release fertilizer and/or a diluted liquid fertilizer regularly. For example, you can start with an organic, slow-release fertilizer mixed into your potting medium, and then give the plant a diluted liquid every couple of weeks throughout the season. Feeding is particularly necessary near the end of the season to promote late blooms. Be careful not to over-fertilize—follow the directions on the label of the plant food closely. Leaves turning light green or yellowish is a sign that the plant needs fertilizer, or possibly more sun.
Types of Calibrachoa
There are 28 different species in the Calibrachoa genus, but those used for garden cultivation are generally complicated hybrids derived from crossing various species. There are dozens of varieties of Calibrachoa available in a vast array of colors, including:
Calibrachoa 'Cabaret Hot Pink' produces loads of bright pink flowers on trailing stems up to 8 inches long.
C. 'Cabaret Purple Glow' grows 12 inches wide and trails to 8 inches.
C. 'Million Bells Terra Cotta' has orange flowers streaked with red and gold on stems trailing to 8 inches.
C. 'MiniFamous Double Blue' has double flowers of deep blue-purple on a trailing plant with 10-inch-long stems.
C. 'Superbells Pomegranate Punch' has velvety-red flowers that get darker toward the center and grows 8 inches tall.
C. 'Kabloom' is a series of hybrid plants that can be grown from seed and they are available in pink, white, red, yellow, and deep blue.
Propagating Calibrachoa
Calibrachoa plants grown in gardens are hybrids that produce few seeds. And because many of the varieties are trademarked hybrids, vegetative propagation through cuttings is technically illegal. If you do attempt to propagate through cuttings, the process is as follows:
Try to find a stem that has small buds but no flowers on it. Using a clean, sharp cutting tool, cut off the stem at least 6 inches from the tip, then remove any lower leaves.
Place your cuttings in an equal mix of half potting soil and half peat moss. Water well.
Set the pot under bright light, and keep the cuttings moist and warm (about 70 degrees Fahrenheit). Roots should begin to develop within a couple of weeks.
Potting and Repotting Calibrachoa
Most million bells plants are badly root-bound when you buy them—so much so that there is very little soil left in the pot. This means that your margin of error for watering is very slim and there isn’t much nutrition for the plants to use. If you repot the plant from its original container, be sure to loosen the root ball and add a slow-release fertilizer into a general-purpose potting mix. These are short-lived plants that won't require any more repotting. These spiller plants can live in a container of any material, but make sure there are plenty of drainage holes.
Common Pests
Calibrachoa plants are extremely susceptible to aphids. Spray aphids off the plant with water, a water and dish detergent mix, or neem oil.
Common Problems With Million Bells
Besides battling aphids, the most common problem you'll encounter with the otherwise easy-going Calibrachoa plant is yellowing leaves. There are a few reasons for yellowing leaves:
Iron deficiency (new growth will yellow)
Nitrogen deficiency (old growth will yellow)
Root rot
Root rot or mold infection can set in if these plants are overwatered. (Plants that wilt after watering may be suffering from root rot.) The best defense is to prevent these issues through good air circulation, proper water management, and good soil porosity.
In most growing zones, million bells is best planted or repotted in the spring. It can bloom continuously through the growing season, and its flowers attract butterflies and hummingbirds. It's also a fast grower and quickly reaches toward the ground as a "spiller" when grown as a container plant. Because of its trailing habit, it looks great in hanging baskets, bowls, or mixed containers.
Common Name Calibrachoa, million bells, trailing petunia, mini petunia
Botanical Name Calibrachoa group
Family Solanaceae
Plant Type Herbaceous perennial flower often grown as an annual
Mature Size 6–12 in. tall, 12–24 in. wide
Sun Exposure Full sun to part shade
Soil Type Moist, rich, well-drained
Soil pH 5.0–6.5 (acidic)
Bloom Time Spring to fall
Flower Color Coral, yellow, orange, red, pink, blue, purple, burgundy, lavender, cream
Hardiness Zones 9–11 (USDA); grown as an annual in all zones
Native Area South America
Calibrachoa Care
Although it is a short-lived perennial in very warm climates, Calibrachoa is grown almost everywhere as an annual. The plant is not hard to care for, but paying attention to its needs will keep it blooming from spring well into fall. While it can be planted in garden beds, the plant fares much better in containers.
This is considered a “self-cleaning” plant, meaning it doesn’t need to be deadheaded to keep blooming; however, it will benefit from a serious cutting back toward the end of summer. Deer don't seem very interested in Calibrachoa, although it is not classified as deer-resistant.
Light
The plant blooms best with at least six hours of full sun, but it can tolerate partial shade—especially in warmer areas, where plants that get some shade are likelier to survive through the summer months. Insufficient sun exposure typically results in reduced blooming.
Soil
Calibrachoa likes fast-draining potting soil, so make sure your pot has good drainage. When planting in garden beds, amend with organic material to ensure richness, and make sure the soil drains well. Mulch is recommended to keep the soil moist and the root system cool.
Water
Calibrachoa needs to be kept well hydrated but not water-logged. Add water only after the top inch or so of the soil dries out. To check if your plant needs water, stick your finger into the soil up to the second knuckle. If the soil feels dry at your fingertip, water deeply until it drains out of the bottom of your pot. Don’t water again until the soil dries out again.
Heat, wind, and lack of humidity can cause your soil to dry out quickly. Depending on your conditions, you may have to water as often as twice a day. Check the soil frequently, especially at the beginning of the season, until you get to know your plant's needs; watering requirements may change as the summer heats up. Take care not to overwater the plant, as this can encourage root rot.
Temperature and Humidity
The plant is pretty drought- and heat-tolerant, and even cold-tolerant, but to get the best blooms, don’t let it dry out repeatedly. It prefers temperatures between 55 and 65 degrees Fahrenheit. A hardened-off plant can be brought outdoors in the spring months and it can tolerate a mild frost. At the other end of the spectrum, hot weather and dryness can be stressful to the plant. You can revive wilted foliage with a daily misting, but be careful not to mist in direct sun, as this can burn the leaves.
Fertilizer
This plant is a heavy feeder that can be fed with a slow-release fertilizer and/or a diluted liquid fertilizer regularly. For example, you can start with an organic, slow-release fertilizer mixed into your potting medium, and then give the plant a diluted liquid every couple of weeks throughout the season. Feeding is particularly necessary near the end of the season to promote late blooms. Be careful not to over-fertilize—follow the directions on the label of the plant food closely. Leaves turning light green or yellowish is a sign that the plant needs fertilizer, or possibly more sun.
Types of Calibrachoa
There are 28 different species in the Calibrachoa genus, but those used for garden cultivation are generally complicated hybrids derived from crossing various species. There are dozens of varieties of Calibrachoa available in a vast array of colors, including:
Calibrachoa 'Cabaret Hot Pink' produces loads of bright pink flowers on trailing stems up to 8 inches long.
C. 'Cabaret Purple Glow' grows 12 inches wide and trails to 8 inches.
C. 'Million Bells Terra Cotta' has orange flowers streaked with red and gold on stems trailing to 8 inches.
C. 'MiniFamous Double Blue' has double flowers of deep blue-purple on a trailing plant with 10-inch-long stems.
C. 'Superbells Pomegranate Punch' has velvety-red flowers that get darker toward the center and grows 8 inches tall.
C. 'Kabloom' is a series of hybrid plants that can be grown from seed and they are available in pink, white, red, yellow, and deep blue.
Propagating Calibrachoa
Calibrachoa plants grown in gardens are hybrids that produce few seeds. And because many of the varieties are trademarked hybrids, vegetative propagation through cuttings is technically illegal. If you do attempt to propagate through cuttings, the process is as follows:
Try to find a stem that has small buds but no flowers on it. Using a clean, sharp cutting tool, cut off the stem at least 6 inches from the tip, then remove any lower leaves.
Place your cuttings in an equal mix of half potting soil and half peat moss. Water well.
Set the pot under bright light, and keep the cuttings moist and warm (about 70 degrees Fahrenheit). Roots should begin to develop within a couple of weeks.
Potting and Repotting Calibrachoa
Most million bells plants are badly root-bound when you buy them—so much so that there is very little soil left in the pot. This means that your margin of error for watering is very slim and there isn’t much nutrition for the plants to use. If you repot the plant from its original container, be sure to loosen the root ball and add a slow-release fertilizer into a general-purpose potting mix. These are short-lived plants that won't require any more repotting. These spiller plants can live in a container of any material, but make sure there are plenty of drainage holes.
Common Pests
Calibrachoa plants are extremely susceptible to aphids. Spray aphids off the plant with water, a water and dish detergent mix, or neem oil.
Common Problems With Million Bells
Besides battling aphids, the most common problem you'll encounter with the otherwise easy-going Calibrachoa plant is yellowing leaves. There are a few reasons for yellowing leaves:
Iron deficiency (new growth will yellow)
Nitrogen deficiency (old growth will yellow)
Root rot
Root rot or mold infection can set in if these plants are overwatered. (Plants that wilt after watering may be suffering from root rot.) The best defense is to prevent these issues through good air circulation, proper water management, and good soil porosity.Light
The plant blooms best with at least six hours of full sun, but it can tolerate partial shade—especially in warmer areas, where plants that get some shade are likelier to survive through the summer months. Insufficient sun exposure typically results in reduced blooming.
Soil
Calibrachoa likes fast-draining potting soil, so make sure your pot has good drainage. When planting in garden beds, amend with organic material to ensure richness, and make sure the soil drains well. Mulch is recommended to keep the soil moist and the root system cool.
Water
Calibrachoa needs to be kept well hydrated but not water-logged. Add water only after the top inch or so of the soil dries out. To check if your plant needs water, stick your finger into the soil up to the second knuckle. If the soil feels dry at your fingertip, water deeply until it drains out of the bottom of your pot. Don’t water again until the soil dries out again.
Heat, wind, and lack of humidity can cause your soil to dry out quickly. Depending on your conditions, you may have to water as often as twice a day. Check the soil frequently, especially at the beginning of the season, until you get to know your plant's needs; watering requirements may change as the summer heats up. Take care not to overwater the plant, as this can encourage root rot.
Temperature and Humidity
The plant is pretty drought- and heat-tolerant, and even cold-tolerant, but to get the best blooms, don’t let it dry out repeatedly. It prefers temperatures between 55 and 65 degrees Fahrenheit. A hardened-off plant can be brought outdoors in the spring months and it can tolerate a mild frost. At the other end of the spectrum, hot weather and dryness can be stressful to the plant. You can revive wilted foliage with a daily misting, but be careful not to mist in direct sun, as this can burn the leaves.
Fertilizer
This plant is a heavy feeder that can be fed with a slow-release fertilizer and/or a diluted liquid fertilizer regularly. For example, you can start with an organic, slow-release fertilizer mixed into your potting medium, and then give the plant a diluted liquid every couple of weeks throughout the season. Feeding is particularly necessary near the end of the season to promote late blooms. Be careful not to over-fertilize—follow the directions on the label of the plant food closely. Leaves turning light green or yellowish is a sign that the plant needs fertilizer, or possibly more sun.
Types of Calibrachoa
There are 28 different species in the Calibrachoa genus, but those used for garden cultivation are generally complicated hybrids derived from crossing various species. There are dozens of varieties of Calibrachoa available in a vast array of colors, including:
Calibrachoa 'Cabaret Hot Pink' produces loads of bright pink flowers on trailing stems up to 8 inches long.
C. 'Cabaret Purple Glow' grows 12 inches wide and trails to 8 inches.
C. 'Million Bells Terra Cotta' has orange flowers streaked with red and gold on stems trailing to 8 inches.
C. 'MiniFamous Double Blue' has double flowers of deep blue-purple on a trailing plant with 10-inch-long stems.
C. 'Superbells Pomegranate Punch' has velvety-red flowers that get darker toward the center and grows 8 inches tall.
C. 'Kabloom' is a series of hybrid plants that can be grown from seed and they are available in pink, white, red, yellow, and deep blue.
Propagating Calibrachoa
Calibrachoa plants grown in gardens are hybrids that produce few seeds. And because many of the varieties are trademarked hybrids, vegetative propagation through cuttings is technically illegal. If you do attempt to propagate through cuttings, the process is as follows:
Try to find a stem that has small buds but no flowers on it. Using a clean, sharp cutting tool, cut off the stem at least 6 inches from the tip, then remove any lower leaves.
Place your cuttings in an equal mix of half potting soil and half peat moss. Water well.
Set the pot under bright light, and keep the cuttings moist and warm (about 70 degrees Fahrenheit). Roots should begin to develop within a couple of weeks.
Potting and Repotting Calibrachoa
Most million bells plants are badly root-bound when you buy them—so much so that there is very little soil left in the pot. This means that your margin of error for watering is very slim and there isn’t much nutrition for the plants to use. If you repot the plant from its original container, be sure to loosen the root ball and add a slow-release fertilizer into a general-purpose potting mix. These are short-lived plants that won't require any more repotting. These spiller plants can live in a container of any material, but make sure there are plenty of drainage holes.
Common Pests
Calibrachoa plants are extremely susceptible to aphids. Spray aphids off the plant with water, a water and dish detergent mix, or neem oil.
Common Problems With Million Bells
Besides battling aphids, the most common problem you'll encounter with the otherwise easy-going Calibrachoa plant is yellowing leaves. There are a few reasons for yellowing leaves:
Iron deficiency (new growth will yellow)
Nitrogen deficiency (old growth will yellow)
Root rot
Root rot or mold infection can set in if these plants are overwatered. (Plants that wilt after watering may be suffering from root rot.) The best defense is to prevent these issues through good air circulation, proper water management, and good soil porosity.
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文章
Miss Chen
2021年12月09日
You might also know Common Cattails (Typha latifolia) as bulrushes. These perennial aquatic plants are widely associated with growing in shallow waters in boggy marshes and wetland areas across temperate regions in North America.
Cattails have an upright growth habit with basal leaves, a long, narrow upright stem, and a tall cylindrical inflorescence. With the right conditions, these plants can grow up to three meters tall. They have a rhizomatous root system and spread rapidly to form attractive thick clumps.
Cattails are monoecious, so the male and female flowers grow on the same plant. The male flowers, which are a shade of yellow, form at the top, and the female ones develop underneath in shades of green. The flowers appear during the summer, and in the fall, the tip of the stalk becomes bare when the male blooms drop off. The female flowers change to a brown shade, and this is when the iconic sausage-shaped spike is visible. It might be stretching it somewhat, but the common name from these plants comes from the fact that it could be said the mature flowering plant looks a bit like a kitties tail!
Cattails can spread rather aggressively, but aside from this, they are known to be a beneficial plant in their natural habitat. The tall, dense clumps provide cover and nutrition for wildlife. Birds often create nesting areas within cattail growing areas.
Over the years, cattail roots have also been used as a starchy food source and the stems have been harvested for making thatch materials, paper, furniture, headwear, and more. Known for being an effective biomass source, they are often added to compost heaps and used as fuel.
In garden landscapes, cattails are well suited to being grown around pounds, in water gardens, or in areas prone to flooding - they can easily grow in water up to ten inches deep. They can also be a good choice for erosion control on wet slopes, and they make a great privacy screen too. The attractive stems are frequently added to flower arrangements in fresh or dried form.
It's great that these plants are so easy-to-grow, but their fast spreading habit means they can quickly overtake the areas they are grown in. If you have limited space or are worried about them choking out other species, your cattails would be best kept in containers.
Botanical Name Typha latifolia
Common Name Common cattail, Broadleaf cattail, Bulrush
Plant Type Perennial, Herbaceous
Mature Size Up to 10 ft. tall
Sun Exposure Full Sun, Partial Shade
Soil Type Moist
Soil pH Acid, Neutral, Alkaline
Bloom Time Summer
Flower Color Brown
Hardiness Zones 3 - 10, USA
Native Area Much of the Northern Hemisphere
Cattail Plant Care
With the right conditions, you can develop a cattail colony in no time at all. They are fast-growing and require little maintenance. They do, of course, need the right amount of moisture, though, and they can become invasive if not kept in check in bottomless containers or something similar. Their spreading rhizomes can be tough to get rid of once established. However, they are a great choice in boggy environments where other plants struggle to survive.
Light
Cattails need a full sun or partial shade position to thrive. They can't survive in full shade.
Soil
These plants benefit from a rich, loamy soil that contains plenty of organic matter. They can, however, grow in most soil types.
Water
As you would expect from a marshland species, cattails need a lot of moisture to thrive, and this is the most vital element of their care. The soil should be kept wet, and this is why they do best in areas where this can happen naturally. These plants can grow in standing water, with some reports suggesting they will still survive even if this is as much as two feet deep.
Temperature and Humidity
Cattails are most commonly found in temperate regions of North America, but they can also grow in subtropical and elevated tropical regions.
Although young shoots don't cope with frost well, established cattails can handle harsh winters in their dormant state.
Fertilizer
Fertilizing cattails isn't generally required or recommended.
Propagating Cattail Plants
Cattails can self-seed freely and spread through their rhizomes. These rhizomes also make it easy to propagate if you want to add a new cluster of plants to a different large landscape area. Young shoots can also be divided in the spring when they are between five and ten inches tall. Just make sure a decent amount of undamaged root is attached.
How to Grow Common Cattail Plants From Seed
If growing cattails from seeds, they need a lot of water for successful germination. They should be sown on the surface of the soil and kept very moist, to the point of being soggy.v
Cattails have an upright growth habit with basal leaves, a long, narrow upright stem, and a tall cylindrical inflorescence. With the right conditions, these plants can grow up to three meters tall. They have a rhizomatous root system and spread rapidly to form attractive thick clumps.
Cattails are monoecious, so the male and female flowers grow on the same plant. The male flowers, which are a shade of yellow, form at the top, and the female ones develop underneath in shades of green. The flowers appear during the summer, and in the fall, the tip of the stalk becomes bare when the male blooms drop off. The female flowers change to a brown shade, and this is when the iconic sausage-shaped spike is visible. It might be stretching it somewhat, but the common name from these plants comes from the fact that it could be said the mature flowering plant looks a bit like a kitties tail!
Cattails can spread rather aggressively, but aside from this, they are known to be a beneficial plant in their natural habitat. The tall, dense clumps provide cover and nutrition for wildlife. Birds often create nesting areas within cattail growing areas.
Over the years, cattail roots have also been used as a starchy food source and the stems have been harvested for making thatch materials, paper, furniture, headwear, and more. Known for being an effective biomass source, they are often added to compost heaps and used as fuel.
In garden landscapes, cattails are well suited to being grown around pounds, in water gardens, or in areas prone to flooding - they can easily grow in water up to ten inches deep. They can also be a good choice for erosion control on wet slopes, and they make a great privacy screen too. The attractive stems are frequently added to flower arrangements in fresh or dried form.
It's great that these plants are so easy-to-grow, but their fast spreading habit means they can quickly overtake the areas they are grown in. If you have limited space or are worried about them choking out other species, your cattails would be best kept in containers.
Botanical Name Typha latifolia
Common Name Common cattail, Broadleaf cattail, Bulrush
Plant Type Perennial, Herbaceous
Mature Size Up to 10 ft. tall
Sun Exposure Full Sun, Partial Shade
Soil Type Moist
Soil pH Acid, Neutral, Alkaline
Bloom Time Summer
Flower Color Brown
Hardiness Zones 3 - 10, USA
Native Area Much of the Northern Hemisphere
Cattail Plant Care
With the right conditions, you can develop a cattail colony in no time at all. They are fast-growing and require little maintenance. They do, of course, need the right amount of moisture, though, and they can become invasive if not kept in check in bottomless containers or something similar. Their spreading rhizomes can be tough to get rid of once established. However, they are a great choice in boggy environments where other plants struggle to survive.
Light
Cattails need a full sun or partial shade position to thrive. They can't survive in full shade.
Soil
These plants benefit from a rich, loamy soil that contains plenty of organic matter. They can, however, grow in most soil types.
Water
As you would expect from a marshland species, cattails need a lot of moisture to thrive, and this is the most vital element of their care. The soil should be kept wet, and this is why they do best in areas where this can happen naturally. These plants can grow in standing water, with some reports suggesting they will still survive even if this is as much as two feet deep.
Temperature and Humidity
Cattails are most commonly found in temperate regions of North America, but they can also grow in subtropical and elevated tropical regions.
Although young shoots don't cope with frost well, established cattails can handle harsh winters in their dormant state.
Fertilizer
Fertilizing cattails isn't generally required or recommended.
Propagating Cattail Plants
Cattails can self-seed freely and spread through their rhizomes. These rhizomes also make it easy to propagate if you want to add a new cluster of plants to a different large landscape area. Young shoots can also be divided in the spring when they are between five and ten inches tall. Just make sure a decent amount of undamaged root is attached.
How to Grow Common Cattail Plants From Seed
If growing cattails from seeds, they need a lot of water for successful germination. They should be sown on the surface of the soil and kept very moist, to the point of being soggy.v
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文章
Miss Chen
2021年11月23日
Water Hyssop, also known as Bacopa monnieri or herb-of-grace, is a creeping, low-growing perennial herb that is native to wetland environments. This means it lends itself well to ornamental aquariums and ponds and, with its little white flowers, it also looks lovely in hanging baskets.
Given its origins, it does best in moist soils. Fast-growing, Water Hyssop can be invasive if you're not careful about pruning it back regularly. If you live in an area that hosts White Peacock Butterflies, this plant may appeal as it's known to attract the caterpillar of this beautiful species.
Don't opt for Water Hyssop if you love a fragrant garden—its flowers are non-aromatic. Despite its name, this plant isn't related to the Hyssop (which is part of the mint family). Instead, the Water Hyssop is part of the Plantaginaceae (Plantain) family.
Botanical Name Bacopa monnieri
Common Name Water Hyssop, Brahmi, Herb of Grace
Plant Type Perennial herb
Mature Size Up to 12 inches
Sun Exposure Full Sun/Part Sun
Soil Type Moist clay, loam or sand, and in standing water
Soil pH Can grow in a wide range of ph levels but, ideally, between 5 - 7
Bloom Time Late Spring to Early Fall
Flower Color White to light pink flowers and evergreen, succulent leaves
Hardiness Zones 8 to 11
Native Area Found in warm wetlands on most continents
How to Grow Water Hyssop
Water Hyssop is a low-growing herb that quickly spreads like a mat across the ground or in ponds. The root system is vast, and you'll need to allow for this when considering where to plant it.
It would help if you also trimmed it back regularly when it's in full growth to prevent it from spreading across any other plants in the area.
Light
This plant does well in full sun or partially shaded areas. It can cope with hot weather conditions, providing you make sure that its generous moisture needs are met.
Positioning your Water Hyssop in a sunnier location will encourage fuller growth. If it's located in an overly shaded area, the leaves will be more spread out, and the plant will have a sparser appearance.
Soil
Water Hyssop isn't too fussy when it comes to soil types providing they're moist. Their capable of growing in acid, alkaline and neutral soils that are sandy, loamy or clay-like.
Water
Water Hyssop is, unsurprisingly, not a drought-resistant plant, and its succulent leaves need a lot of water to thrive.
Temperature and Humidity
Water Hyssop does well in warm and tropical conditions. Humid temperatures are not a problem as this plant needs moisture to thrive. If you frequently experience cold snaps or temperatures that are generally below 60 degrees Fahrenheit, then this won't be the plant to opt for.
Fertilizer
When this herb is planted in the ground or in baskets, half strength, slow-release fertilizer will be enough to encourage rapid and healthy growth.
If your Water Hyssop is in an aquatic setting, you shouldn't use fertilizer unless it's specifically designed for this type of environment. It can encourage the rapid growth of algae.
Propagating Water Hyssop
This fast-growing and long-lived plant is easy to propagate. You can take cuttings any time between late spring and early summer or divide the root for replanting in spring or fall.
Pop the five to ten centimeter cuttings into water and then enclose them in a humidity bag until you notice the roots have grown visibly.
Harvesting
The leaves of Water Hyssop are edible and can be consumed raw or cooked. Although not one of the most popular or flavorsome herbs, it's well known for its medicinal properties. It's recognized as being beneficial for the nervous system.
It's best to harvest the leaves just as the little flowers are starting to bloom in the summer, but they can be picked right through the fall too.
Being Grown in Containers
Water Hyssop needs a deep container to accommodate the sprawling roots. Make sure you select a sealed bottom pot as you want the soil to remain moist. If you're keeping the container indoors, select a well-lit and warm area for best growth. It'll do best in a humid environment, so if the air in your home is dry, the results may not be as impressive.
Growing From Seeds
Generally, propagation rather than seed growth is recommended. The seeds are very small, and successful germination can be hard to achieve.
If you do wish to try growing Water Hyssop from seeds, because it's fast-growing and has a complex root system, in spring, you should plant the seeds at least six inches apart.
The seeds should be sown close to the surface, and ideally in sunny conditions. The soil should be kept moist.
The seedlings are small and delicate, and it's better to let them grow considerably first if you plan to pot them into containers or reposition them.
Given its origins, it does best in moist soils. Fast-growing, Water Hyssop can be invasive if you're not careful about pruning it back regularly. If you live in an area that hosts White Peacock Butterflies, this plant may appeal as it's known to attract the caterpillar of this beautiful species.
Don't opt for Water Hyssop if you love a fragrant garden—its flowers are non-aromatic. Despite its name, this plant isn't related to the Hyssop (which is part of the mint family). Instead, the Water Hyssop is part of the Plantaginaceae (Plantain) family.
Botanical Name Bacopa monnieri
Common Name Water Hyssop, Brahmi, Herb of Grace
Plant Type Perennial herb
Mature Size Up to 12 inches
Sun Exposure Full Sun/Part Sun
Soil Type Moist clay, loam or sand, and in standing water
Soil pH Can grow in a wide range of ph levels but, ideally, between 5 - 7
Bloom Time Late Spring to Early Fall
Flower Color White to light pink flowers and evergreen, succulent leaves
Hardiness Zones 8 to 11
Native Area Found in warm wetlands on most continents
How to Grow Water Hyssop
Water Hyssop is a low-growing herb that quickly spreads like a mat across the ground or in ponds. The root system is vast, and you'll need to allow for this when considering where to plant it.
It would help if you also trimmed it back regularly when it's in full growth to prevent it from spreading across any other plants in the area.
Light
This plant does well in full sun or partially shaded areas. It can cope with hot weather conditions, providing you make sure that its generous moisture needs are met.
Positioning your Water Hyssop in a sunnier location will encourage fuller growth. If it's located in an overly shaded area, the leaves will be more spread out, and the plant will have a sparser appearance.
Soil
Water Hyssop isn't too fussy when it comes to soil types providing they're moist. Their capable of growing in acid, alkaline and neutral soils that are sandy, loamy or clay-like.
Water
Water Hyssop is, unsurprisingly, not a drought-resistant plant, and its succulent leaves need a lot of water to thrive.
Temperature and Humidity
Water Hyssop does well in warm and tropical conditions. Humid temperatures are not a problem as this plant needs moisture to thrive. If you frequently experience cold snaps or temperatures that are generally below 60 degrees Fahrenheit, then this won't be the plant to opt for.
Fertilizer
When this herb is planted in the ground or in baskets, half strength, slow-release fertilizer will be enough to encourage rapid and healthy growth.
If your Water Hyssop is in an aquatic setting, you shouldn't use fertilizer unless it's specifically designed for this type of environment. It can encourage the rapid growth of algae.
Propagating Water Hyssop
This fast-growing and long-lived plant is easy to propagate. You can take cuttings any time between late spring and early summer or divide the root for replanting in spring or fall.
Pop the five to ten centimeter cuttings into water and then enclose them in a humidity bag until you notice the roots have grown visibly.
Harvesting
The leaves of Water Hyssop are edible and can be consumed raw or cooked. Although not one of the most popular or flavorsome herbs, it's well known for its medicinal properties. It's recognized as being beneficial for the nervous system.
It's best to harvest the leaves just as the little flowers are starting to bloom in the summer, but they can be picked right through the fall too.
Being Grown in Containers
Water Hyssop needs a deep container to accommodate the sprawling roots. Make sure you select a sealed bottom pot as you want the soil to remain moist. If you're keeping the container indoors, select a well-lit and warm area for best growth. It'll do best in a humid environment, so if the air in your home is dry, the results may not be as impressive.
Growing From Seeds
Generally, propagation rather than seed growth is recommended. The seeds are very small, and successful germination can be hard to achieve.
If you do wish to try growing Water Hyssop from seeds, because it's fast-growing and has a complex root system, in spring, you should plant the seeds at least six inches apart.
The seeds should be sown close to the surface, and ideally in sunny conditions. The soil should be kept moist.
The seedlings are small and delicate, and it's better to let them grow considerably first if you plan to pot them into containers or reposition them.
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