文章
Miss Chen
2021年11月22日
The Buxus genus includes about 70 species of slow-growing broadleaf evergreens. Most of the garden forms are cultivars or hybrids of two species— B. sempervirens (common box) and B. microphylla (Japanese box). Boxwoods are typically large shrubs or small trees, but most of the varieties used in modern landscaping are dwarf varieties, such as B. sempervirens 'Suffruticosa', a popular plant for hedges and topiaries. Another dwarf variety is the Korean (Buxus sinica var. insularis). It reaches a mature height of just two feet tall (with a slightly greater spread). These dwarf boxwood shrubs are prized for their densely packed, light-green leaves and rounded, compact growth habit.
Botanical Name Buxus spp.
Common Names Boxwood, English boxwood, box
Plant Type Broadleaf evergreen shrub
Mature Size Varies by species; dwarf varieties are typically 2 to 8 feet tall
Sun Exposure Full sun to part shade
Soil Type Medium moisture loamy soil
Soil pH 6.8 to 7.5
Bloom Time April to May
Flower Color Green to creamy yellow (flowers are not significant)
Hardiness Zones 5 to 9 (depends on species and variety)
Native Area Southern Europe, Asia
Toxicity Toxic to pets
How to Grow Boxwood Shrubs
Boxwoods are best planted in loamy soil in a full-sun to part-shade location, preferably in an area somewhat sheltered from winds. Their roots are shallow, so the soil must be protected from the heat. Maintain a layer of organic garden mulch, three inches thick, around each plant. Start mulching 2 inches out from the trunk—as a general rule, it is bad to mulch right up against the trunk of a bush or tree, because it invites pests and diseases—and work your way about one foot outwards, around the whole circumference, space permitting.
When grown as a hedge or formal screen, the primary maintenance for the shrubs will be in regular pruning, though this will not be necessary if you are using them as specimen plantings.
Light
Boxwoods will take full sun to partial shade, but planting them in an area bathed in dappled shade for the hottest part of the afternoon is preferable. When sheltered by trees, the roots of dwarf boxwoods will profit from the cooler soil temperatures.
Soil
Boxwood shrubs require well-drained soils, or they will suffer from root rot. Although they may tolerate soils with a lower pH, certified soil scientist, Victoria Smith notes that they prefer a soil pH in the 6.8 to 7.5 range.
Water
For the first two years, boxwoods require deep weekly watering. Avoid shallow watering, since moisture will not reach the deepest roots. Mature plants will thrive with a deep watering every 2 to 4 weeks.
Temperature and Humidity
Boxwoods typically thrive in the climate conditions in zones 6 to 8. In very hot summer weather, the shrubs will appreciate more water and shade. Zone 5 gardeners may find that stem tips die back in cold weather.
Fertilizer
Fertilize with an all-purpose fertilizer in spring prior to the emergence of new growth.
Propagating Boxwood Shrubs
Boxwood is best propagated by rooting some stem cuttings. In midsummer, cut 3- to 4-inch lengths of stem tips of new growth. Remove the lower leaves and scape the bark from one side of the cutting. Bury the ends of the cuttings in a pot filled with a mixture of sand, peat moss, and vermiculite. Moisten the potting medium, place the pot in a sealed plastic bag, and set it in a bright location. Check the moisture daily, and mist whenever the cutting is dry. Check for roots every few days by tugging on the cutting.
When the roots are sufficiently developed, remove the pot from the plastic bag and transplant the cutting into another container filled with a rich potting mix. Continue to grow the plant in a sunny window until outdoor planting time the following spring.
Pruning Boxwood Shrubs
Although they are known for their tolerance for hard pruning, most boxwoods will form a nice informal shape without much pruning at all. Only occasional pruning is required to clean out dead branches or those that are twisted together.
When pruning hard for shape, the trimming can be done almost any time during the growing season, though it should be avoided in late fall to avoid winter bronzing.
Varieties of Boxwood
There are many kinds of boxwoods, and the best plant for you depends on your particular landscaping needs.
Buxus sempervirons 'Suffruticosa' cultivars are favored in gardens because they grow more slowly. The growth habit is tighter and more compact than the 'Arborescens' cultivars. These shrubs grow to 2 to 3 feet in height with a 2- to 4-foot spread.
B sempervirens' Arborescens' is a considerably larger, faster-growing plant, growing as tall as 20 feet with a spread of 8 to 10 feet.
B. sempervirens 'Monrue Green Tower' is a columnar form, 9 feet tall and 1 to 2 feet in spread. It is great for a tall screen or for sculpting topiary use. Two plants can be used to flank an entryway.
Buxus microphylla var. japonica, the Japanese boxwood, is one of the most popular shrubs for low hedges. It is also preferred where a more drought-tolerant shrub is needed. It is for zones 6 to 9 and has mature dimensions of 6 to 8 feet tall by 10 to 15 feet wide. Japanese boxwoods figure prominently at a number of historic sites in the Far East.
B. microphylla japonica 'Winter Gem' is 4 to 6 feet tall with a similar spread. The cultivar name comes from the pleasing gold and bronze tinges of its foliage in winter.
B. microphylla japonica 'Golden Triumph' is 2 to 3 feet tall and 3 to 4 feet wide; it is valued for its variegated leaves.
Common Pests/Diseases
A common problem for boxwood shrubs is "winter bronzing," a shift to reddish-brown or yellowish foliage color caused by winter exposure to wind and sun. One way to address the problem is to spray an anti-desiccant on the shrubs in late November and again in late January and to make sure your plants are watered sufficiently throughout the growing season. Also, you can build a structure around your bushes to shelter them from the wind and sun in winter. But some gardeners do not mind—or even actually value—the winter bronzing on the foliage.
Leafminer, boxwood mite, and boxwood psyllid are common pests. The damage is disfiguring but not fatal, and the pests can be treated with horticultural oils. In the deep South, nematodes are of concern.
Boxwoods can be susceptible to fungal blights and leaf spot, and root rot can also be a problem in poorly-drained soils.
In the northern part of the hardiness range, new growth is susceptible to winter damage.
Landscape Uses
While people occasionally use boxwood shrubs as specimen plants in their landscape-design work, they are more often grouped together in foundation plantings or to form hedges. Dwarf boxwoods are famous for their use in formal landscape design. They respond well to pruning, which makes them popular as knot-garden plants, as topiary plants, and as bonsai plants. Wall germander (Teucrium chamaedrys) is used in a similar way.
Other uses for these bushes extend beyond the life of the plant. As a cut evergreen for the holiday season, sprigs of it are used in wreaths, garlands, kissing balls, and topiary "tree" arrangements.
Botanical Name Buxus spp.
Common Names Boxwood, English boxwood, box
Plant Type Broadleaf evergreen shrub
Mature Size Varies by species; dwarf varieties are typically 2 to 8 feet tall
Sun Exposure Full sun to part shade
Soil Type Medium moisture loamy soil
Soil pH 6.8 to 7.5
Bloom Time April to May
Flower Color Green to creamy yellow (flowers are not significant)
Hardiness Zones 5 to 9 (depends on species and variety)
Native Area Southern Europe, Asia
Toxicity Toxic to pets
How to Grow Boxwood Shrubs
Boxwoods are best planted in loamy soil in a full-sun to part-shade location, preferably in an area somewhat sheltered from winds. Their roots are shallow, so the soil must be protected from the heat. Maintain a layer of organic garden mulch, three inches thick, around each plant. Start mulching 2 inches out from the trunk—as a general rule, it is bad to mulch right up against the trunk of a bush or tree, because it invites pests and diseases—and work your way about one foot outwards, around the whole circumference, space permitting.
When grown as a hedge or formal screen, the primary maintenance for the shrubs will be in regular pruning, though this will not be necessary if you are using them as specimen plantings.
Light
Boxwoods will take full sun to partial shade, but planting them in an area bathed in dappled shade for the hottest part of the afternoon is preferable. When sheltered by trees, the roots of dwarf boxwoods will profit from the cooler soil temperatures.
Soil
Boxwood shrubs require well-drained soils, or they will suffer from root rot. Although they may tolerate soils with a lower pH, certified soil scientist, Victoria Smith notes that they prefer a soil pH in the 6.8 to 7.5 range.
Water
For the first two years, boxwoods require deep weekly watering. Avoid shallow watering, since moisture will not reach the deepest roots. Mature plants will thrive with a deep watering every 2 to 4 weeks.
Temperature and Humidity
Boxwoods typically thrive in the climate conditions in zones 6 to 8. In very hot summer weather, the shrubs will appreciate more water and shade. Zone 5 gardeners may find that stem tips die back in cold weather.
Fertilizer
Fertilize with an all-purpose fertilizer in spring prior to the emergence of new growth.
Propagating Boxwood Shrubs
Boxwood is best propagated by rooting some stem cuttings. In midsummer, cut 3- to 4-inch lengths of stem tips of new growth. Remove the lower leaves and scape the bark from one side of the cutting. Bury the ends of the cuttings in a pot filled with a mixture of sand, peat moss, and vermiculite. Moisten the potting medium, place the pot in a sealed plastic bag, and set it in a bright location. Check the moisture daily, and mist whenever the cutting is dry. Check for roots every few days by tugging on the cutting.
When the roots are sufficiently developed, remove the pot from the plastic bag and transplant the cutting into another container filled with a rich potting mix. Continue to grow the plant in a sunny window until outdoor planting time the following spring.
Pruning Boxwood Shrubs
Although they are known for their tolerance for hard pruning, most boxwoods will form a nice informal shape without much pruning at all. Only occasional pruning is required to clean out dead branches or those that are twisted together.
When pruning hard for shape, the trimming can be done almost any time during the growing season, though it should be avoided in late fall to avoid winter bronzing.
Varieties of Boxwood
There are many kinds of boxwoods, and the best plant for you depends on your particular landscaping needs.
Buxus sempervirons 'Suffruticosa' cultivars are favored in gardens because they grow more slowly. The growth habit is tighter and more compact than the 'Arborescens' cultivars. These shrubs grow to 2 to 3 feet in height with a 2- to 4-foot spread.
B sempervirens' Arborescens' is a considerably larger, faster-growing plant, growing as tall as 20 feet with a spread of 8 to 10 feet.
B. sempervirens 'Monrue Green Tower' is a columnar form, 9 feet tall and 1 to 2 feet in spread. It is great for a tall screen or for sculpting topiary use. Two plants can be used to flank an entryway.
Buxus microphylla var. japonica, the Japanese boxwood, is one of the most popular shrubs for low hedges. It is also preferred where a more drought-tolerant shrub is needed. It is for zones 6 to 9 and has mature dimensions of 6 to 8 feet tall by 10 to 15 feet wide. Japanese boxwoods figure prominently at a number of historic sites in the Far East.
B. microphylla japonica 'Winter Gem' is 4 to 6 feet tall with a similar spread. The cultivar name comes from the pleasing gold and bronze tinges of its foliage in winter.
B. microphylla japonica 'Golden Triumph' is 2 to 3 feet tall and 3 to 4 feet wide; it is valued for its variegated leaves.
Common Pests/Diseases
A common problem for boxwood shrubs is "winter bronzing," a shift to reddish-brown or yellowish foliage color caused by winter exposure to wind and sun. One way to address the problem is to spray an anti-desiccant on the shrubs in late November and again in late January and to make sure your plants are watered sufficiently throughout the growing season. Also, you can build a structure around your bushes to shelter them from the wind and sun in winter. But some gardeners do not mind—or even actually value—the winter bronzing on the foliage.
Leafminer, boxwood mite, and boxwood psyllid are common pests. The damage is disfiguring but not fatal, and the pests can be treated with horticultural oils. In the deep South, nematodes are of concern.
Boxwoods can be susceptible to fungal blights and leaf spot, and root rot can also be a problem in poorly-drained soils.
In the northern part of the hardiness range, new growth is susceptible to winter damage.
Landscape Uses
While people occasionally use boxwood shrubs as specimen plants in their landscape-design work, they are more often grouped together in foundation plantings or to form hedges. Dwarf boxwoods are famous for their use in formal landscape design. They respond well to pruning, which makes them popular as knot-garden plants, as topiary plants, and as bonsai plants. Wall germander (Teucrium chamaedrys) is used in a similar way.
Other uses for these bushes extend beyond the life of the plant. As a cut evergreen for the holiday season, sprigs of it are used in wreaths, garlands, kissing balls, and topiary "tree" arrangements.
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文章
Miss Chen
2021年11月14日
Bonsai is the ancient Japanese art form of growing ornamental miniature or artificially dwarfed trees in containers using cultivation techniques to mimic the shape and scale of full-sized trees.
Pine trees are among the most common types of trees used for bonsai worldwide, although they are usually enjoyed by bonsai enthusiasts as they are not a great beginner option. Since pines grow in many different shapes, sizes, and colors, pine bonsai can be shaped into nearly every known bonsai style successfully. Several different species of pine can be successfully used for bonsai cultivation.
9 Popular Types of Bonsai Trees
Botanical Name Pinus Bonsai
Common Name Bonsai pine
Plant Type Evergreen, coniferous tree
Mature Size 60-80 inches (or desired)
Sun Exposure Full sun
Soil Type Well-draining, bonsai soil
Soil pH 5.5 - 6.5
Bloom Time Does not flower
Flower Color Does not flower
Native Area North America, China, South-East Asia, Russia, Europe
Pine Bonsai Care
Pine bonsais are often considered to be a more advanced type of bonsai that are not ideal for beginners. They are one of the most difficult types of bonsai to understand, style, and prune since factors such as individual climate can greatly affect the requirements of the tree.
An important part of growing and shaping a healthy pine bonsai tree is proper wiring. Wiring is the practice of wrapping a wire around the branches of the bonsai tree in order to bend and reposition the branches to achieve the desired shape.
Wiring also promotes energy distribution throughout the tree. Avoid doing too much wiring at one time with pine bonsais so as to not damage the tree. Wiring is best done in the winter months from early autumn to early spring.
Light
For best growth, pine bonsai trees require full sun for several hours each day. The more light the tree receives, the shorter and more compact the needles will be. Leggy, elongated needles on a pine bonsai are indicative of the tree needing more sunlight.
Soil
As with most bonsai species, pine bonsai require well-draining potting mediums. Commercially available bonsai soils/mixes are usually best. These contain a mixture of akadama (clay granulate mined in Japan), pumice, organic potting compost, and fine gravel/grit. Pine bonsais appreciate a soil pH between 5.5-6.5.
Water
Pine bonsai trees prefer to be kept consistently moist, but they cannot tolerate being waterlogged. As a general rule of thumb, water whenever the top inch or two of soil is dry.
Temperature and Humidity
Pine bonsai are not suitable for growing indoors and should be grown outside year-round. Pines are hardy, frost-tolerant trees, although, when planted in containers, they should be placed in a sheltered location so they are protected from the worst of the winter weather.
As with most bonsai, pine bonsai appreciate moisture and can benefit from regular misting if your climate is not naturally humid.
Fertilizer
Healthy pine bonsai trees require regular fertilization to achieve the best growth and appearance. Fertilize a pine bonsai from early spring to late autumn with an organic bonsai fertilizer for best results. Avoid fertilizers that are nitrogen-rich.
Varieties of Pine for Bonsai
The Pinus genus is extensive with over 100 different species. The following are some of the most popular for bonsai cultivation:
Pinus thunbergii (Japanese black pine)
Pinus mugo (Mountain pine)
Pinus sylvestris (Scots pine)
Pinus parviflora (Japanese white pine)
Pruning
Proper pruning is essential to the aesthetic and health of a bonsai tree. It is necessary to begin shaping pine bonsai from an early age to establish a strong branch structure.
In general, pine tree species are apically dominant in terms of their growth habit - meaning that they grow vigorously at the top and outer reaches of the tree. A poorly pruned pine bonsai will become top-heavy at the expense of the lower branches, and it will also establish fuller growth around the outer edges of the branches - which is unsuitable for the aesthetic of bonsai.
In the spring and summer, elongated candles should be shortened and excess old needles should be plucked from any areas with dense growth. Reserve any heavy pruning of the main branches for the fall months to avoid excess sap loss in the spring and summer.
Potting and Repotting
Regular repotting is not a requirement for pine bonsai. Depending on the age of the tree, pine bonsai usually only require repotting every 2-5 years. This will be to refresh the soil and root prune to prevent the tree from becoming root-bound. Repotting pine bonsai is best done in the early spring, just after the buds begin to swell.
When choosing a new pot for your bonsai tree, there are several things to take into consideration. According to the rules of bonsai, a pot's height and width should not be more than ⅔ that of the tree, both for function (root restriction) and for aesthetic and design. Color is another important factor in choosing a bonsai pot, and the general rule is that the color of the pot should appear somewhere in the tree. The overall goal is to create harmony between the tree and its pot.
Whether you decide to follow the traditional rules of bonsai or not, bonsai trees can technically be grown in many different containers. Keep in mind that the pot should offer adequate drainage, and the size and depth of the pot relative to the tree are important in controlling its size.
Common Pests/Diseases
Unfortunately, pine bonsai species are susceptible to a number of common pests and diseases. Keep an eye out for aphids, spider mites, scale, and caterpillars, along with common diseases such as root rot (usually due to overwatering or lack of proper drainage), as well as fungal diseases.
Pine trees are among the most common types of trees used for bonsai worldwide, although they are usually enjoyed by bonsai enthusiasts as they are not a great beginner option. Since pines grow in many different shapes, sizes, and colors, pine bonsai can be shaped into nearly every known bonsai style successfully. Several different species of pine can be successfully used for bonsai cultivation.
9 Popular Types of Bonsai Trees
Botanical Name Pinus Bonsai
Common Name Bonsai pine
Plant Type Evergreen, coniferous tree
Mature Size 60-80 inches (or desired)
Sun Exposure Full sun
Soil Type Well-draining, bonsai soil
Soil pH 5.5 - 6.5
Bloom Time Does not flower
Flower Color Does not flower
Native Area North America, China, South-East Asia, Russia, Europe
Pine Bonsai Care
Pine bonsais are often considered to be a more advanced type of bonsai that are not ideal for beginners. They are one of the most difficult types of bonsai to understand, style, and prune since factors such as individual climate can greatly affect the requirements of the tree.
An important part of growing and shaping a healthy pine bonsai tree is proper wiring. Wiring is the practice of wrapping a wire around the branches of the bonsai tree in order to bend and reposition the branches to achieve the desired shape.
Wiring also promotes energy distribution throughout the tree. Avoid doing too much wiring at one time with pine bonsais so as to not damage the tree. Wiring is best done in the winter months from early autumn to early spring.
Light
For best growth, pine bonsai trees require full sun for several hours each day. The more light the tree receives, the shorter and more compact the needles will be. Leggy, elongated needles on a pine bonsai are indicative of the tree needing more sunlight.
Soil
As with most bonsai species, pine bonsai require well-draining potting mediums. Commercially available bonsai soils/mixes are usually best. These contain a mixture of akadama (clay granulate mined in Japan), pumice, organic potting compost, and fine gravel/grit. Pine bonsais appreciate a soil pH between 5.5-6.5.
Water
Pine bonsai trees prefer to be kept consistently moist, but they cannot tolerate being waterlogged. As a general rule of thumb, water whenever the top inch or two of soil is dry.
Temperature and Humidity
Pine bonsai are not suitable for growing indoors and should be grown outside year-round. Pines are hardy, frost-tolerant trees, although, when planted in containers, they should be placed in a sheltered location so they are protected from the worst of the winter weather.
As with most bonsai, pine bonsai appreciate moisture and can benefit from regular misting if your climate is not naturally humid.
Fertilizer
Healthy pine bonsai trees require regular fertilization to achieve the best growth and appearance. Fertilize a pine bonsai from early spring to late autumn with an organic bonsai fertilizer for best results. Avoid fertilizers that are nitrogen-rich.
Varieties of Pine for Bonsai
The Pinus genus is extensive with over 100 different species. The following are some of the most popular for bonsai cultivation:
Pinus thunbergii (Japanese black pine)
Pinus mugo (Mountain pine)
Pinus sylvestris (Scots pine)
Pinus parviflora (Japanese white pine)
Pruning
Proper pruning is essential to the aesthetic and health of a bonsai tree. It is necessary to begin shaping pine bonsai from an early age to establish a strong branch structure.
In general, pine tree species are apically dominant in terms of their growth habit - meaning that they grow vigorously at the top and outer reaches of the tree. A poorly pruned pine bonsai will become top-heavy at the expense of the lower branches, and it will also establish fuller growth around the outer edges of the branches - which is unsuitable for the aesthetic of bonsai.
In the spring and summer, elongated candles should be shortened and excess old needles should be plucked from any areas with dense growth. Reserve any heavy pruning of the main branches for the fall months to avoid excess sap loss in the spring and summer.
Potting and Repotting
Regular repotting is not a requirement for pine bonsai. Depending on the age of the tree, pine bonsai usually only require repotting every 2-5 years. This will be to refresh the soil and root prune to prevent the tree from becoming root-bound. Repotting pine bonsai is best done in the early spring, just after the buds begin to swell.
When choosing a new pot for your bonsai tree, there are several things to take into consideration. According to the rules of bonsai, a pot's height and width should not be more than ⅔ that of the tree, both for function (root restriction) and for aesthetic and design. Color is another important factor in choosing a bonsai pot, and the general rule is that the color of the pot should appear somewhere in the tree. The overall goal is to create harmony between the tree and its pot.
Whether you decide to follow the traditional rules of bonsai or not, bonsai trees can technically be grown in many different containers. Keep in mind that the pot should offer adequate drainage, and the size and depth of the pot relative to the tree are important in controlling its size.
Common Pests/Diseases
Unfortunately, pine bonsai species are susceptible to a number of common pests and diseases. Keep an eye out for aphids, spider mites, scale, and caterpillars, along with common diseases such as root rot (usually due to overwatering or lack of proper drainage), as well as fungal diseases.
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文章
Miss Chen
2021年10月18日
Bird's nest ferns (Asplenium nidus) are naturally epiphytic, meaning they grow on the surface of other plants. In their rainforest homes, they can be found growing high in the crooks of trees. They form a series of erect, spoon-shaped, bright green fronds that rise from a central rosette. Healthy plants can have fronds up to 5 feet long, but bird's nest ferns kept as houseplants typically have fronds that grow only about 2 feet long. These ferns have a slow growth rate. They're best planted in the spring, though houseplants generally can be started year-round.
Common Name Bird's nest fern, nest fern
Botanical Name Asplenium nidus
Family Aspleniaceae
Plant Type Perennial
Mature Size 3–5 ft. tall, 2–3 ft. wide
Sun Exposure Partial, shade
Soil Type Loamy, moist, well-drained
Soil pH Acidic
Bloom Time None
Flower Color None
Hardiness Zones 11–12, USA
Native Area Asia, Australia, Africa
Bird's Nest Fern Care
The key to a healthy bird's nest fern is providing it with ample warmth, humidity, and moisture. When growing it as a houseplant, one of the best places to situate a bird's nest fern is near a shower or tub in a bathroom where it will receive optimal humidity and warmth, though it must have a light source as well.
New leaves will constantly emerge from the central area of the plant, which resembles a bird's nest. Do not touch, move, or handle the new, delicate fronds as they emerge from the center. They are extremely fragile, and if you touch them, there is a high chance of them becoming damaged or deformed.
Light
Bird’s nest ferns grow well in filtered sunlight to a moderate amount of shade. Don’t expose them to direct sunlight other than the very early morning sun. Harsh direct sunlight can burn the leaves. Indoors, an east- or north-facing window is ideal.
Soil
These plants like soil that’s loose and rich in organic matter with excellent drainage. A peat-based potting mix is good for container plants.
Water
The ferns prefer a consistent amount of soil moisture, but they don’t do well sitting in soggy soil. Water whenever the top inch of soil is dry. Avoid watering directly into the center of the plant, as this can encourage mold growth and rot in the dense nest. Aim water at the soil to avoid wetting the fern's fronds.
Temperature and Humidity
The bird’s nest fern thrives in warmth with temperatures between 60 and 80 degrees Fahrenheit. It can tolerate temperatures down to 50 degrees, but anything colder than that can harm the plant, especially with prolonged exposure. Indoors, be sure to protect your plant from cool drafts, such as air blowing from an air-conditioning vent.
This fern prefers high humidity and moist environments, such as a bathroom, greenhouse, or terrarium. To raise the humidity around a bird’s nest fern, you can use a humidifier. Or you can set its pot on a tray filled with pebbles and water. But make sure the bottom of the pot isn’t sitting in the water because that can lead to root rot.
Fertilizer
During the fern's active growing season (April through September), fertilize once a month with a balanced liquid fertilizer that's diluted to half strength. Make sure to apply the fertilizer to the soil and not the fronds, as direct contact with fertilizer can burn foliage. Withhold fertilizer for the rest of the year because too much food can cause the fronds to have an abnormal shape or take on a yellowish or brownish color.
Types of Bird's Nest Fern
There are only a handful of varieties of bird’s nest ferns, which typically feature different leaf shapes. They include:
Asplenium nidus 'Crispy Wave': Sword-shaped ruffled leaves
Asplenium nidus 'Osaka': Narrow, strap-like leaves with rippled edges
Asplenium nidus 'Antiquum': Wavy leaf margins
Asplenium nidus 'Victoria': Long, wavy, tongue-shaped fronds
Propagating Bird's Nest Fern
Bird’s nest ferns can be tricky to propagate for beginner gardeners. Many people opt to purchase nursery plants instead, though propagating them yourself will save you some money. Propagation occurs via spores, which look like fuzzy brown spots on the undersides of fronds. When they look especially plump and fuzzy, that's when it's time to propagate.
To collect the spores, cut off a frond with these spots and place it in a paper bag for a few days. The spores will drop into the bag. Next, add the spores on top of a container of sphagnum moss that’s placed in a water dish, so the moss will soak up the water. The moss should be moist throughout but not waterlogged. Cover the container with plastic wrap to keep the environment moist, and place it in a warm, shaded spot. Keep the dish filled with water, and mist the moss if it doesn't feel moist. Germination should occur in a few weeks.
Potting and Repotting Bird's Nest Fern
Bird's nest ferns must be potted in a container with ample drainage holes. As an epiphytic plant, bird's nest ferns are accustomed to growing with minimal potting media. So your plant generally won’t need repotting because its roots have run out of space. Instead, these ferns will need repotting once they’ve grown so large that they’re unstable in their pot and need a larger container to attach themselves to. This will typically occur every two to three years, and spring is the best time to repot. When it’s time to repot, select a container that's large enough to keep your plant stable. A clay container is often better than plastic to anchor the plant. Carefully loosen your plant from its previous pot, set it in the new pot at the same depth as it was before, and fill around it with fresh potting mix.
Common Pests
No serious disease or pest problems affect bird's nest ferns, though they can be affected by some insects common to houseplants, such as scale. Natural insecticidal soaps are the best solution to combat pest issues, since chemical pesticides will damage this plant's fragile leaves.
Common Problems With Bird's Nest Fern
Bird's nest ferns are generally healthy plants, but they can be prone to a few issues that largely have to do with an improper environment.
Leaves Turning Yellow
Too much sun can cause the foliage of a bird's nest fern to turn yellow. Likewise, too much fertilizer also can cause yellowing. Check your plant throughout the day to make sure it's always in proper sunlight conditions. And adjust fertilization if necessary.
Browning Tips
Fronds naturally turn brown as they die and are replaced with fresh growth. But browning along the edges of a frond is often due to drafts hitting the plant. Move your fern away from air-conditioning vents and any drafty windows or doors.
Common Name Bird's nest fern, nest fern
Botanical Name Asplenium nidus
Family Aspleniaceae
Plant Type Perennial
Mature Size 3–5 ft. tall, 2–3 ft. wide
Sun Exposure Partial, shade
Soil Type Loamy, moist, well-drained
Soil pH Acidic
Bloom Time None
Flower Color None
Hardiness Zones 11–12, USA
Native Area Asia, Australia, Africa
Bird's Nest Fern Care
The key to a healthy bird's nest fern is providing it with ample warmth, humidity, and moisture. When growing it as a houseplant, one of the best places to situate a bird's nest fern is near a shower or tub in a bathroom where it will receive optimal humidity and warmth, though it must have a light source as well.
New leaves will constantly emerge from the central area of the plant, which resembles a bird's nest. Do not touch, move, or handle the new, delicate fronds as they emerge from the center. They are extremely fragile, and if you touch them, there is a high chance of them becoming damaged or deformed.
Light
Bird’s nest ferns grow well in filtered sunlight to a moderate amount of shade. Don’t expose them to direct sunlight other than the very early morning sun. Harsh direct sunlight can burn the leaves. Indoors, an east- or north-facing window is ideal.
Soil
These plants like soil that’s loose and rich in organic matter with excellent drainage. A peat-based potting mix is good for container plants.
Water
The ferns prefer a consistent amount of soil moisture, but they don’t do well sitting in soggy soil. Water whenever the top inch of soil is dry. Avoid watering directly into the center of the plant, as this can encourage mold growth and rot in the dense nest. Aim water at the soil to avoid wetting the fern's fronds.
Temperature and Humidity
The bird’s nest fern thrives in warmth with temperatures between 60 and 80 degrees Fahrenheit. It can tolerate temperatures down to 50 degrees, but anything colder than that can harm the plant, especially with prolonged exposure. Indoors, be sure to protect your plant from cool drafts, such as air blowing from an air-conditioning vent.
This fern prefers high humidity and moist environments, such as a bathroom, greenhouse, or terrarium. To raise the humidity around a bird’s nest fern, you can use a humidifier. Or you can set its pot on a tray filled with pebbles and water. But make sure the bottom of the pot isn’t sitting in the water because that can lead to root rot.
Fertilizer
During the fern's active growing season (April through September), fertilize once a month with a balanced liquid fertilizer that's diluted to half strength. Make sure to apply the fertilizer to the soil and not the fronds, as direct contact with fertilizer can burn foliage. Withhold fertilizer for the rest of the year because too much food can cause the fronds to have an abnormal shape or take on a yellowish or brownish color.
Types of Bird's Nest Fern
There are only a handful of varieties of bird’s nest ferns, which typically feature different leaf shapes. They include:
Asplenium nidus 'Crispy Wave': Sword-shaped ruffled leaves
Asplenium nidus 'Osaka': Narrow, strap-like leaves with rippled edges
Asplenium nidus 'Antiquum': Wavy leaf margins
Asplenium nidus 'Victoria': Long, wavy, tongue-shaped fronds
Propagating Bird's Nest Fern
Bird’s nest ferns can be tricky to propagate for beginner gardeners. Many people opt to purchase nursery plants instead, though propagating them yourself will save you some money. Propagation occurs via spores, which look like fuzzy brown spots on the undersides of fronds. When they look especially plump and fuzzy, that's when it's time to propagate.
To collect the spores, cut off a frond with these spots and place it in a paper bag for a few days. The spores will drop into the bag. Next, add the spores on top of a container of sphagnum moss that’s placed in a water dish, so the moss will soak up the water. The moss should be moist throughout but not waterlogged. Cover the container with plastic wrap to keep the environment moist, and place it in a warm, shaded spot. Keep the dish filled with water, and mist the moss if it doesn't feel moist. Germination should occur in a few weeks.
Potting and Repotting Bird's Nest Fern
Bird's nest ferns must be potted in a container with ample drainage holes. As an epiphytic plant, bird's nest ferns are accustomed to growing with minimal potting media. So your plant generally won’t need repotting because its roots have run out of space. Instead, these ferns will need repotting once they’ve grown so large that they’re unstable in their pot and need a larger container to attach themselves to. This will typically occur every two to three years, and spring is the best time to repot. When it’s time to repot, select a container that's large enough to keep your plant stable. A clay container is often better than plastic to anchor the plant. Carefully loosen your plant from its previous pot, set it in the new pot at the same depth as it was before, and fill around it with fresh potting mix.
Common Pests
No serious disease or pest problems affect bird's nest ferns, though they can be affected by some insects common to houseplants, such as scale. Natural insecticidal soaps are the best solution to combat pest issues, since chemical pesticides will damage this plant's fragile leaves.
Common Problems With Bird's Nest Fern
Bird's nest ferns are generally healthy plants, but they can be prone to a few issues that largely have to do with an improper environment.
Leaves Turning Yellow
Too much sun can cause the foliage of a bird's nest fern to turn yellow. Likewise, too much fertilizer also can cause yellowing. Check your plant throughout the day to make sure it's always in proper sunlight conditions. And adjust fertilization if necessary.
Browning Tips
Fronds naturally turn brown as they die and are replaced with fresh growth. But browning along the edges of a frond is often due to drafts hitting the plant. Move your fern away from air-conditioning vents and any drafty windows or doors.
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文章
Miss Chen
2021年10月13日
You may not be familiar with the term bidens plant, but there is a good chance you’ve spotted this prolific growing plant with daisy-like blooms. Part of the aster family, there are more than 200 species of bidens plants with native types in such farflung places as Hawaii, Mexico, and Europe. In the United States, these plants are considered a native species in every state except Wyoming. If you encounter wild-growing bidens, you’ll recognize them for the tiny, sticky seeds that cling to your clothing or in your dog’s fur. The good news is that most commercially-available bidens have been cultivated to avoid the sticky seed problem.
These flowering plants typically have blooms in yellow or orange, but newer varieties include pink, gold, and white blossoms. In warmer climates where winter temperatures stay above 40 degrees Fahrenheit, bidens are a perennial plant. Though they lose their blooms in late fall and winter, the beautiful foliage of this plant stays green all year long. In northern climates where winter temperatures fall below freezing, they are considered an annual and need to be replanted each year.
Botanical Name Bidens
Common Name Bidens
Plant Type Annual or perennial
Mature Size 6-12 inches tall, 1-3 feet wide
Sun Exposure Medium to full sun
Soil Type Rich and well-drained
Soil pH Slightly acidic to neutral
Bloom Time Summer
Flower Color Yellow, Gold, White, Pink, Orange
Hardiness Zones 8 to 11
Native Area Americas, Africa, Polynesia, Europe, Asia
How to Grow Bidens
Growing virtually all types of bidens is relatively easy. These plants have abundant greenery growth and produce many blooms—as long as they have rich soil and sufficient drainage. They tolerate drought and heat relatively well and require part to full sun.
You won’t need to deadhead the plant for it to continue blooming during its long flowering season of May to October. In the winter, the plant will die off if temperatures fall below freezing. Otherwise, it will retain its greenery through the winter months and rejuvenate in the spring.
Popular in both gardens and in containers, bidens are considered an excellent choice as a spiller plant.
Light
Bidens can grow in partial sun conditions, but for the biggest and best blooms, full sun is preferred. Any location you choose to plant bidens should receive at least 4 hours of direct sunlight per day. Without adequate light, the plant will still grow but may not produce as many blooms and is likely to be leggier.
Soil
Whether you’re planting bidens in an outdoor garden or a container, ensure that they have well-drained soil to avoid problems with root rot. In addition, this abundantly blooming plant thrives in rich, humus soil. It can tolerate a variety of pH levels in soil, but is generally considered to do best in neutral to slightly acidic soil types.
Water
These plants are considered fairly drought-resistant. However, they do require regular watering for their best appearance and longevity. An inch of water per week is typically sufficient; water before wilting begins.
Temperature and Humidity
Warm temperatures don’t put a damper on the growth and blooming of most varieties of bidens. With many of these plants being native to warm weather locales like Hawaii, Mexico, and Polynesia, it’s safe to say that they won’t mind a little heat and humidity!
The drought resistant quality of this plant also helps it to endure hot, dry conditions. However, if such a spell of dry weather persists, it’s best to provide these plants with regular watering to offset the impact of the heat on the plant’s foliage and blooms.
On the other hand, if temperatures dip too low, bidens plants will suffer. These plants are not frost-resistant and will die under 40 degrees Fahrenheit. In climates that keep above this threshold, the plant will return year after year as a perennial. Otherwise, it will need to be re-planted as an annual each year.
Fertilizer
To flourish, the abundantly flowering bidens plant will require nutrient-rich soil. How much fertilizer to use and what type is generally specified by the specific type of bidens plant you’re growing.
It’s generally recommended to supplement this plant with a general-purpose fertilizer or to use a timed-release fertilizer when planting. Fertilizer is especially important if you are growing bidens in a container.
Propagating Bidens
It’s relatively easy to turn one bidens plant into many, since these plants can be propagated by seed, cuttings, or through dividing.
To propagate by seed, you should plan to sow the seeds at the end of winter or beginning of spring. Keep in mind that this plant prefers warm weather, so wait until after the last frost if you’re sowing seed in an outdoor location.
If you want to propagate by cuttings, take an actively growing stem with a node from the plant. Plant it in moist, rich potting soil and water generously and often until new growth emerges.
Finally, you can divide bidens plants to create more of these flowering beauties. For bidens growing as perennials in southern regions, wait to divide the plants until the spring.
Varieties of Bidens
Bidens alba – Resembling a daisy, this bidens plant variety features white petals and a bright yellow center. It’s also sometimes referred to as beggarticks or Spanish needles.
Bidens 'Campfire Burst' – This variety of bidens is hard to miss, thanks to the brightly hued flowers crowning each plant. The tri-colored petals are shaded inward from a deep red to a blazing orange and a zippy yellow. They flower abundantly from the summer into the fall and are a great colorful addition to any landscape design.
Bidens ferulifolia 'Golden Nugget' – With yellow petals that resemble a star and an orange center, the Golden Nugget variety is one of the most eye-catching bidens plants. It’s a native of Mexico and is also called the Apache beggartick or fern-leaved beggartick, courtesy of its fine, soft foliage.
Pruning
Bidens are easy to maintain and don’t need to be pruned or deadheaded. However, in favorable growing conditions, you might choose to prune the plant back if it becomes too large.
Being Grown in Containers
While bidens are a popular pick for gardens and landscaping, they also make an excellent choice for container gardening. The abundant foliage and flowers are well-suited to flower boxes or hanging planters.
Much of the care of bidens grown in containers remains the same, however it will be important to fertilize these plants since they require rich soil for flowering and overall vitality.
These flowering plants typically have blooms in yellow or orange, but newer varieties include pink, gold, and white blossoms. In warmer climates where winter temperatures stay above 40 degrees Fahrenheit, bidens are a perennial plant. Though they lose their blooms in late fall and winter, the beautiful foliage of this plant stays green all year long. In northern climates where winter temperatures fall below freezing, they are considered an annual and need to be replanted each year.
Botanical Name Bidens
Common Name Bidens
Plant Type Annual or perennial
Mature Size 6-12 inches tall, 1-3 feet wide
Sun Exposure Medium to full sun
Soil Type Rich and well-drained
Soil pH Slightly acidic to neutral
Bloom Time Summer
Flower Color Yellow, Gold, White, Pink, Orange
Hardiness Zones 8 to 11
Native Area Americas, Africa, Polynesia, Europe, Asia
How to Grow Bidens
Growing virtually all types of bidens is relatively easy. These plants have abundant greenery growth and produce many blooms—as long as they have rich soil and sufficient drainage. They tolerate drought and heat relatively well and require part to full sun.
You won’t need to deadhead the plant for it to continue blooming during its long flowering season of May to October. In the winter, the plant will die off if temperatures fall below freezing. Otherwise, it will retain its greenery through the winter months and rejuvenate in the spring.
Popular in both gardens and in containers, bidens are considered an excellent choice as a spiller plant.
Light
Bidens can grow in partial sun conditions, but for the biggest and best blooms, full sun is preferred. Any location you choose to plant bidens should receive at least 4 hours of direct sunlight per day. Without adequate light, the plant will still grow but may not produce as many blooms and is likely to be leggier.
Soil
Whether you’re planting bidens in an outdoor garden or a container, ensure that they have well-drained soil to avoid problems with root rot. In addition, this abundantly blooming plant thrives in rich, humus soil. It can tolerate a variety of pH levels in soil, but is generally considered to do best in neutral to slightly acidic soil types.
Water
These plants are considered fairly drought-resistant. However, they do require regular watering for their best appearance and longevity. An inch of water per week is typically sufficient; water before wilting begins.
Temperature and Humidity
Warm temperatures don’t put a damper on the growth and blooming of most varieties of bidens. With many of these plants being native to warm weather locales like Hawaii, Mexico, and Polynesia, it’s safe to say that they won’t mind a little heat and humidity!
The drought resistant quality of this plant also helps it to endure hot, dry conditions. However, if such a spell of dry weather persists, it’s best to provide these plants with regular watering to offset the impact of the heat on the plant’s foliage and blooms.
On the other hand, if temperatures dip too low, bidens plants will suffer. These plants are not frost-resistant and will die under 40 degrees Fahrenheit. In climates that keep above this threshold, the plant will return year after year as a perennial. Otherwise, it will need to be re-planted as an annual each year.
Fertilizer
To flourish, the abundantly flowering bidens plant will require nutrient-rich soil. How much fertilizer to use and what type is generally specified by the specific type of bidens plant you’re growing.
It’s generally recommended to supplement this plant with a general-purpose fertilizer or to use a timed-release fertilizer when planting. Fertilizer is especially important if you are growing bidens in a container.
Propagating Bidens
It’s relatively easy to turn one bidens plant into many, since these plants can be propagated by seed, cuttings, or through dividing.
To propagate by seed, you should plan to sow the seeds at the end of winter or beginning of spring. Keep in mind that this plant prefers warm weather, so wait until after the last frost if you’re sowing seed in an outdoor location.
If you want to propagate by cuttings, take an actively growing stem with a node from the plant. Plant it in moist, rich potting soil and water generously and often until new growth emerges.
Finally, you can divide bidens plants to create more of these flowering beauties. For bidens growing as perennials in southern regions, wait to divide the plants until the spring.
Varieties of Bidens
Bidens alba – Resembling a daisy, this bidens plant variety features white petals and a bright yellow center. It’s also sometimes referred to as beggarticks or Spanish needles.
Bidens 'Campfire Burst' – This variety of bidens is hard to miss, thanks to the brightly hued flowers crowning each plant. The tri-colored petals are shaded inward from a deep red to a blazing orange and a zippy yellow. They flower abundantly from the summer into the fall and are a great colorful addition to any landscape design.
Bidens ferulifolia 'Golden Nugget' – With yellow petals that resemble a star and an orange center, the Golden Nugget variety is one of the most eye-catching bidens plants. It’s a native of Mexico and is also called the Apache beggartick or fern-leaved beggartick, courtesy of its fine, soft foliage.
Pruning
Bidens are easy to maintain and don’t need to be pruned or deadheaded. However, in favorable growing conditions, you might choose to prune the plant back if it becomes too large.
Being Grown in Containers
While bidens are a popular pick for gardens and landscaping, they also make an excellent choice for container gardening. The abundant foliage and flowers are well-suited to flower boxes or hanging planters.
Much of the care of bidens grown in containers remains the same, however it will be important to fertilize these plants since they require rich soil for flowering and overall vitality.
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文章
Miss Chen
2021年10月08日
The beet plant (Beta vulgaris) is a fast-growing vegetable that can be grown just about anywhere. Although beets are known as a root crop, all parts of the beet plant are edible. Tender beet greens can be harvested when thinning a row of beets, and mature leaves make good greens when it's time to pull up the whole plant. The most commonly known root beets are red, but golden and striped varieties are also available.
Beets are a cool-season vegetable crop, so you might be able to get both an early crop planted in the spring as well as a crop planted in the summer or fall. Most beet varieties are ready to harvest about two months after planting.
Common Name Beet, beetroot
Botanical Name Beta vulgaris
Family Amaranthaceae
Plant Type Annual, vegetable
Size 12–18 in. tall, 18–24 in. wide
Sun Exposure Full sun, part sun
Soil Type Loamy, moist, well-drained
Soil pH Acidic, neutral (6.0–7.0)
Bloom Time Seasonal
Hardiness Zones 2–11 (USDA)
Native Area Europe
How to Plant Beets
When to Plant
When planting in the spring, wait until the soil has warmed to at least 50 degrees Fahrenheit. You can sow successive plantings roughly every two to three weeks as long as the daytime temperature isn't above 75 degrees Fahrenheit. If you plant your beets in the summer or fall, be sure to leave at least a month before your first expected frost from your last seeding. In warm climates, you might even be able to plant in the fall for a winter harvest.
Selecting a Planting Site
Beets are easy to grow from seed in the ground or in containers. They need a sunny spot with good soil drainage. Aim to plant them somewhere away from Swiss chard and spinach, as the plants are relatives susceptible to the same pest and disease issues.
Spacing, Depth, and Support
Plant seeds about 1 to 2 inches apart, and space rows about a foot apart. The seeds should only be about 1/2 inch deep. When seedlings reach 3 to 4 inches tall, thin them to around 4 inches apart. A support structure won’t be necessary.
Beet Plant Care
Light
Beets prefer to grow in full sun, meaning at least six hours of direct sunlight on most days. However, they can tolerate some light shade.
Soil
A light, rich, well-draining soil with a slightly acidic to neutral pH is best. Rocks, clay, weeds, and anything else that can interfere with root development should be removed. Moreover, beets need boron in the soil to prevent black heart, a condition that causes deformed leaves and corky black spots on the roots. You can provide boron by using compost or seaweed extract as a soil amendment.
Water
Provide at least 1 inch of water every week. Mulching will help to keep the soil from drying out and getting too warm.
Temperature and Humidity
Beets are not quite as cold-tolerant as some cool-season vegetables, such as broccoli, but they can tolerate a light frost. Temperatures between 50 and 85 degrees Fahrenheit are ideal. Humidity also typically isn't an issue as long as proper soil moisture is maintained and there's air flow around the plants to help inhibit fungal growth.
Fertilizer
If your soil is not rich in organic matter, supplemental feeding will be necessary starting about two weeks after the beets emerge. Any good vegetable fertilizer will do, following label instructions.
Pollination
Beets are primarily pollinated by the wind, with flowers not appearing until the plant's second year as it completes its life cycle. As most gardeners grow beets as annuals, not biennials, pollination is not a factor.
Types of Beets
'Burpee Golden' beets have a beautiful yellow-orange color but are relatively temperamental when growing.
'Chioggia' is an heirloom beet with concentric red and white circles.
'Detroit Dark Red' is great for fresh eating or canning and pickling.
'Mini Ball' produces individual-sized beets and is great for growing in containers.
Beets vs. Radishes
Radishes and beets look like they could be varieties of one another. However, they are two entirely different species. While both are round and typically red or purple in color, beets are generally much larger than radishes. Beets also have a bumpier texture. Taste-wise, beets have a bittersweet, earthy flavor while radishes are more peppery.
Harvesting Beets
Beets take around 55 to 70 days after planting to mature. You can start harvesting beet greens once the plants reach around 3 to 4 inches tall. The greens are most tender before they reach 6 inches, and they can be eaten raw or cooked. Be sure to leave some leaves on the plants, as they’re necessary for root development. Beetroots are ready to harvest when they’re around 1 1/2 to 2 inches in diameter. Larger roots will be tougher and more fibrous.
Harvest the beetroots by loosening the soil and gently pulling them out. Leave at least 1 inch of the stem to avoid bleeding during cooking.
Beets are ideal root cellar vegetables and can be stored for three to four months packed in sand or sawdust in a cool, dry spot. Beets can also be canned, pickled, or frozen. Fresh beets will keep in the refrigerator for up to a week.
How to Grow Beets in Pots
Their compact growth habit makes beets a good choice for containers. And container growth is a good option if you don't have the garden space or the right soil conditions to successfully grow beets. The pot should be at least 12 inches deep and 12 to 24 inches wide across the top. Make sure it has holes in the bottom to provide good drainage. Small varieties of beets, including 'Mini Ball' and 'Baby Ball', do particularly well in containers.
Pruning
Pruning isn't necessary for beet plants beyond thinning seedlings and trimming off leaves as needed to eat. Also, trim off any broken leaves that are dragging on the ground, as they can introduce pests and diseases to the plant.
Propagating Beets
Beets are one of the many vegetables than can be propagated via scraps. This is an inexpensive, quick, and easy way to get a second harvest of leaves. However, you won’t get bulb regrowth from it. Here’s how:
Remove the leaves from the beet, and use them for cooking. Also, remove most of the beetroot, but save the top part (no more than a third of the beet overall).
Put the top part in a shallow dish of water with the cut side facing down. Place the dish by a sunny window.
Change the water every day or two. You should see new leaf growth in a few days.
Start harvesting leaves in about a week as needed. The beet will keep growing leaves for several weeks.
How to Grow Beets From Seed
The beet seeds that come in packets are really clumps of four to six seeds. You can plant the whole clump and thin the seedlings when they are a few inches tall, or you can try to separate the clumps into individual seeds before planting. The safest way to do this is to gently run a rolling pin over the clumps—but be careful not to crush the seeds. Most gardeners find it easier to simply thin the young greens. You can eat the thinned leaves in salads. To prevent damage to the roots of the plants staying in the ground, thin seedlings by cutting them at the soil line with scissors or shears; do not pull them up.
Beet seeds can be slow to germinate because of their tough outer shell. Soaking the seed clusters overnight will help to soften the shell and speed germination. Germination will take about a week in soil above 50 degrees Fahrenheit or up to three weeks in cooler soil.
Potting and Repotting Beets
A potting mix formulated especially for vegetables is ideal for beets. It's best to pot beets in a container that will accommodate their mature size to avoid having to repot. That way, you won't have to disturb the sensitive roots.
Overwintering
Beets are most commonly grown as annuals, so no overwintering is necessary. In zones 9 and above, they often can be grown over the winter months.
Common Pests and Plant Diseases
Many of the common problems with beets are shared by other root vegetables, such as potatoes. In addition to black heart, caused by a boron deficiency (described above), be on the lookout for:
Bacterial infections: A variety of soil bacteria can cause discolored spots on leaves, which can gradually infect the roots. Affected plants should be removed, and rotate crops the next season. Do not plant beets in garden space previously occupied by potatoes.
Viral infections: Various viruses, often transmitted by leafhopper insects, can cause twisted, distorted leaves. Combat viruses by planting resistant varieties and fighting leafhoppers with pesticides.
Fungal infections: Similar to bacteria, fungal infections cause small brown or gray spots to cover the leaves. To prevent, rotate crops every two to three years. At the first sign of infection, apply a fungicide.
Root rot: Usually caused by the Fusarium fungus, root rot causes the above-ground foliate to wilt, as though in need of water, while the underground roots begin to rot away. Root rot tends to appear in cycles; two or three disease-free years might be followed by a bad season where many plants are affected. Root rot can be minimized by keeping your garden weed-free and by avoiding overwatering. Affected plants should be removed.
Insect pests: Watch for leaf miners, leafhoppers, flea beetles, aphids, and caterpillars. Pests usually are identified by ragged holes left when they feed on leaves. Use an appropriate pesticide, or pick off pests by hand.
Beets are a cool-season vegetable crop, so you might be able to get both an early crop planted in the spring as well as a crop planted in the summer or fall. Most beet varieties are ready to harvest about two months after planting.
Common Name Beet, beetroot
Botanical Name Beta vulgaris
Family Amaranthaceae
Plant Type Annual, vegetable
Size 12–18 in. tall, 18–24 in. wide
Sun Exposure Full sun, part sun
Soil Type Loamy, moist, well-drained
Soil pH Acidic, neutral (6.0–7.0)
Bloom Time Seasonal
Hardiness Zones 2–11 (USDA)
Native Area Europe
How to Plant Beets
When to Plant
When planting in the spring, wait until the soil has warmed to at least 50 degrees Fahrenheit. You can sow successive plantings roughly every two to three weeks as long as the daytime temperature isn't above 75 degrees Fahrenheit. If you plant your beets in the summer or fall, be sure to leave at least a month before your first expected frost from your last seeding. In warm climates, you might even be able to plant in the fall for a winter harvest.
Selecting a Planting Site
Beets are easy to grow from seed in the ground or in containers. They need a sunny spot with good soil drainage. Aim to plant them somewhere away from Swiss chard and spinach, as the plants are relatives susceptible to the same pest and disease issues.
Spacing, Depth, and Support
Plant seeds about 1 to 2 inches apart, and space rows about a foot apart. The seeds should only be about 1/2 inch deep. When seedlings reach 3 to 4 inches tall, thin them to around 4 inches apart. A support structure won’t be necessary.
Beet Plant Care
Light
Beets prefer to grow in full sun, meaning at least six hours of direct sunlight on most days. However, they can tolerate some light shade.
Soil
A light, rich, well-draining soil with a slightly acidic to neutral pH is best. Rocks, clay, weeds, and anything else that can interfere with root development should be removed. Moreover, beets need boron in the soil to prevent black heart, a condition that causes deformed leaves and corky black spots on the roots. You can provide boron by using compost or seaweed extract as a soil amendment.
Water
Provide at least 1 inch of water every week. Mulching will help to keep the soil from drying out and getting too warm.
Temperature and Humidity
Beets are not quite as cold-tolerant as some cool-season vegetables, such as broccoli, but they can tolerate a light frost. Temperatures between 50 and 85 degrees Fahrenheit are ideal. Humidity also typically isn't an issue as long as proper soil moisture is maintained and there's air flow around the plants to help inhibit fungal growth.
Fertilizer
If your soil is not rich in organic matter, supplemental feeding will be necessary starting about two weeks after the beets emerge. Any good vegetable fertilizer will do, following label instructions.
Pollination
Beets are primarily pollinated by the wind, with flowers not appearing until the plant's second year as it completes its life cycle. As most gardeners grow beets as annuals, not biennials, pollination is not a factor.
Types of Beets
'Burpee Golden' beets have a beautiful yellow-orange color but are relatively temperamental when growing.
'Chioggia' is an heirloom beet with concentric red and white circles.
'Detroit Dark Red' is great for fresh eating or canning and pickling.
'Mini Ball' produces individual-sized beets and is great for growing in containers.
Beets vs. Radishes
Radishes and beets look like they could be varieties of one another. However, they are two entirely different species. While both are round and typically red or purple in color, beets are generally much larger than radishes. Beets also have a bumpier texture. Taste-wise, beets have a bittersweet, earthy flavor while radishes are more peppery.
Harvesting Beets
Beets take around 55 to 70 days after planting to mature. You can start harvesting beet greens once the plants reach around 3 to 4 inches tall. The greens are most tender before they reach 6 inches, and they can be eaten raw or cooked. Be sure to leave some leaves on the plants, as they’re necessary for root development. Beetroots are ready to harvest when they’re around 1 1/2 to 2 inches in diameter. Larger roots will be tougher and more fibrous.
Harvest the beetroots by loosening the soil and gently pulling them out. Leave at least 1 inch of the stem to avoid bleeding during cooking.
Beets are ideal root cellar vegetables and can be stored for three to four months packed in sand or sawdust in a cool, dry spot. Beets can also be canned, pickled, or frozen. Fresh beets will keep in the refrigerator for up to a week.
How to Grow Beets in Pots
Their compact growth habit makes beets a good choice for containers. And container growth is a good option if you don't have the garden space or the right soil conditions to successfully grow beets. The pot should be at least 12 inches deep and 12 to 24 inches wide across the top. Make sure it has holes in the bottom to provide good drainage. Small varieties of beets, including 'Mini Ball' and 'Baby Ball', do particularly well in containers.
Pruning
Pruning isn't necessary for beet plants beyond thinning seedlings and trimming off leaves as needed to eat. Also, trim off any broken leaves that are dragging on the ground, as they can introduce pests and diseases to the plant.
Propagating Beets
Beets are one of the many vegetables than can be propagated via scraps. This is an inexpensive, quick, and easy way to get a second harvest of leaves. However, you won’t get bulb regrowth from it. Here’s how:
Remove the leaves from the beet, and use them for cooking. Also, remove most of the beetroot, but save the top part (no more than a third of the beet overall).
Put the top part in a shallow dish of water with the cut side facing down. Place the dish by a sunny window.
Change the water every day or two. You should see new leaf growth in a few days.
Start harvesting leaves in about a week as needed. The beet will keep growing leaves for several weeks.
How to Grow Beets From Seed
The beet seeds that come in packets are really clumps of four to six seeds. You can plant the whole clump and thin the seedlings when they are a few inches tall, or you can try to separate the clumps into individual seeds before planting. The safest way to do this is to gently run a rolling pin over the clumps—but be careful not to crush the seeds. Most gardeners find it easier to simply thin the young greens. You can eat the thinned leaves in salads. To prevent damage to the roots of the plants staying in the ground, thin seedlings by cutting them at the soil line with scissors or shears; do not pull them up.
Beet seeds can be slow to germinate because of their tough outer shell. Soaking the seed clusters overnight will help to soften the shell and speed germination. Germination will take about a week in soil above 50 degrees Fahrenheit or up to three weeks in cooler soil.
Potting and Repotting Beets
A potting mix formulated especially for vegetables is ideal for beets. It's best to pot beets in a container that will accommodate their mature size to avoid having to repot. That way, you won't have to disturb the sensitive roots.
Overwintering
Beets are most commonly grown as annuals, so no overwintering is necessary. In zones 9 and above, they often can be grown over the winter months.
Common Pests and Plant Diseases
Many of the common problems with beets are shared by other root vegetables, such as potatoes. In addition to black heart, caused by a boron deficiency (described above), be on the lookout for:
Bacterial infections: A variety of soil bacteria can cause discolored spots on leaves, which can gradually infect the roots. Affected plants should be removed, and rotate crops the next season. Do not plant beets in garden space previously occupied by potatoes.
Viral infections: Various viruses, often transmitted by leafhopper insects, can cause twisted, distorted leaves. Combat viruses by planting resistant varieties and fighting leafhoppers with pesticides.
Fungal infections: Similar to bacteria, fungal infections cause small brown or gray spots to cover the leaves. To prevent, rotate crops every two to three years. At the first sign of infection, apply a fungicide.
Root rot: Usually caused by the Fusarium fungus, root rot causes the above-ground foliate to wilt, as though in need of water, while the underground roots begin to rot away. Root rot tends to appear in cycles; two or three disease-free years might be followed by a bad season where many plants are affected. Root rot can be minimized by keeping your garden weed-free and by avoiding overwatering. Affected plants should be removed.
Insect pests: Watch for leaf miners, leafhoppers, flea beetles, aphids, and caterpillars. Pests usually are identified by ragged holes left when they feed on leaves. Use an appropriate pesticide, or pick off pests by hand.
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文章
Miss Chen
2021年10月01日
Growing Batik German iris is all about the mesmerizing color pattern on the flower petals. The royal purple flowers are streaked with irregular blotches of white (a patterning sometimes termed "broken color"). Its flowers, produced over a period of about one month, are also fragrant. Batik German iris is truly a show-stopper for the flower border.
Botanical Name Iris germanica 'Batik'
Common Name Batik iris, Batik German iris, Batik bearded iris
Plant Type Herbaceous perennial
Mature Size 24 inches in height
Sun Exposure Full sun
Soil Type Friable, evenly moist, and well-drained
Soil pH Neutral
Bloom Time May
Flower Color Royal purple, with white blotches
Hardiness Zones 4 to 9
Native Area The eastern Mediterranean
How to Grow Batik German Iris
Plant the rhizomes of Batik German iris no deeper than one inch down into the soil. This perennial is notorious for preferring a shallow planting depth.
After blooming, deadhead by removing flower stems right down to ground level.
To avoid bacterial and fungal diseases, be fastidious in cleaning up a bed in which you are growing Batik German irises. After a hard frost in autumn, clean up any debris around the plants. Some experts recommend that you cut the leaves down to ground level at this time.
This is a deer-resistant perennial. In spite of Bambi's disdain for it, it is a plant that attracts butterflies; you can also use it as a flower to attract hummingbirds.
Dividing in August every four years or so will prevent overcrowding and rejuvenate your clumps of Batik German iris.
Light
Batik German iris tolerates light shade, but it will flower best when grown in full sun.
Soil
Work humus into the soil to promote good drainage.
Water
Keep the soil of Batik German iris evenly moist. But the plant does not like soggy soil, so make sure that the ground drains well. It is a moderately drought-tolerant perennial once established.
Fertilizer
For fertilizer (which some gardeners apply twice a year), use a product high in phosphorus (the middle number in the NPK sequence).
Batik, Border, Bearded, German: What the Names Mean
You probably recognize the germanica in the botanical name as the source for the "German" in the common name. I. germanica also goes by the common name of "bearded iris," due to the presence on the flowers of small hairs reminiscent of the hairs in a beard just beginning to grow.
Like other genera brimming with hordes of different species, this genus has a lingo all its own, meant to help in classifying plants and facilitating descriptions of plant parts. For example, you will see Batik German iris listed as a "border" type. Among other qualifications, a border type will, by definition, attain a height of from 16 to 27.5 inches, according to the American Iris Society (AIS). Since Batik German irises have a height of 24 inches, they meet this qualification.
The cultivar name of 'Batik' refers to an ancient artistic technique, whereby select portions of a medium are made resistant by applying wax to them, after which the surface is dyed. The dye-resistant areas retain their original color, whereas the rest of the surface assumes the color of the dye.
Apparently, whoever named the plant thought of the batiking process when gazing upon the flower's purple-and-white coloration. The pattern could easily suggest an original color of white, made resistant with wax, over which a purple dye was applied (or vice versa).
Usually associated with fabric, the concept can readily be applied elsewhere, as well. The batiking process is popular in artwork done on hardshell gourds (Lagenaria spp.), for example.
Other Iris
Batik is one of the many hybrid bearded irises available, but there are various types of irises. They come in many colors and sizes (including flower sizes), and they can differ substantially in growing requirements. Examples include:
Reticulated iris (Iris reticulata): This is a much smaller species (both in height and in flower size). It also blooms earlier.
Blue flag (Iris versicolor): Being native to eastern North America, the blue flag is a good alternative for gardeners in that region who crave native gardens. It works well around water features.
Japanese iris (Iris ensata): Another choice well-suited for planting around water features. Both this iris and blue flag require more water than Batik German iris, and they tolerate wet soil.
Uses for Batik German Iris in the Landscape
Batik German iris, being of intermediate height for a perennial, is a good plant for the middle row of a layered perennial flower bed. Alternatively, use it as an edging plant. It is a good cut flower, too.
The plant exhibits a clumping growth habit, growing from a base of rhizomes. Its leaves are sword-shaped. Combined with its tall flower spikes, the leaves inject a vertical element in your flower borders that allows you to create contrasts in plant form.
Botanical Name Iris germanica 'Batik'
Common Name Batik iris, Batik German iris, Batik bearded iris
Plant Type Herbaceous perennial
Mature Size 24 inches in height
Sun Exposure Full sun
Soil Type Friable, evenly moist, and well-drained
Soil pH Neutral
Bloom Time May
Flower Color Royal purple, with white blotches
Hardiness Zones 4 to 9
Native Area The eastern Mediterranean
How to Grow Batik German Iris
Plant the rhizomes of Batik German iris no deeper than one inch down into the soil. This perennial is notorious for preferring a shallow planting depth.
After blooming, deadhead by removing flower stems right down to ground level.
To avoid bacterial and fungal diseases, be fastidious in cleaning up a bed in which you are growing Batik German irises. After a hard frost in autumn, clean up any debris around the plants. Some experts recommend that you cut the leaves down to ground level at this time.
This is a deer-resistant perennial. In spite of Bambi's disdain for it, it is a plant that attracts butterflies; you can also use it as a flower to attract hummingbirds.
Dividing in August every four years or so will prevent overcrowding and rejuvenate your clumps of Batik German iris.
Light
Batik German iris tolerates light shade, but it will flower best when grown in full sun.
Soil
Work humus into the soil to promote good drainage.
Water
Keep the soil of Batik German iris evenly moist. But the plant does not like soggy soil, so make sure that the ground drains well. It is a moderately drought-tolerant perennial once established.
Fertilizer
For fertilizer (which some gardeners apply twice a year), use a product high in phosphorus (the middle number in the NPK sequence).
Batik, Border, Bearded, German: What the Names Mean
You probably recognize the germanica in the botanical name as the source for the "German" in the common name. I. germanica also goes by the common name of "bearded iris," due to the presence on the flowers of small hairs reminiscent of the hairs in a beard just beginning to grow.
Like other genera brimming with hordes of different species, this genus has a lingo all its own, meant to help in classifying plants and facilitating descriptions of plant parts. For example, you will see Batik German iris listed as a "border" type. Among other qualifications, a border type will, by definition, attain a height of from 16 to 27.5 inches, according to the American Iris Society (AIS). Since Batik German irises have a height of 24 inches, they meet this qualification.
The cultivar name of 'Batik' refers to an ancient artistic technique, whereby select portions of a medium are made resistant by applying wax to them, after which the surface is dyed. The dye-resistant areas retain their original color, whereas the rest of the surface assumes the color of the dye.
Apparently, whoever named the plant thought of the batiking process when gazing upon the flower's purple-and-white coloration. The pattern could easily suggest an original color of white, made resistant with wax, over which a purple dye was applied (or vice versa).
Usually associated with fabric, the concept can readily be applied elsewhere, as well. The batiking process is popular in artwork done on hardshell gourds (Lagenaria spp.), for example.
Other Iris
Batik is one of the many hybrid bearded irises available, but there are various types of irises. They come in many colors and sizes (including flower sizes), and they can differ substantially in growing requirements. Examples include:
Reticulated iris (Iris reticulata): This is a much smaller species (both in height and in flower size). It also blooms earlier.
Blue flag (Iris versicolor): Being native to eastern North America, the blue flag is a good alternative for gardeners in that region who crave native gardens. It works well around water features.
Japanese iris (Iris ensata): Another choice well-suited for planting around water features. Both this iris and blue flag require more water than Batik German iris, and they tolerate wet soil.
Uses for Batik German Iris in the Landscape
Batik German iris, being of intermediate height for a perennial, is a good plant for the middle row of a layered perennial flower bed. Alternatively, use it as an edging plant. It is a good cut flower, too.
The plant exhibits a clumping growth habit, growing from a base of rhizomes. Its leaves are sword-shaped. Combined with its tall flower spikes, the leaves inject a vertical element in your flower borders that allows you to create contrasts in plant form.
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文章
Miss Chen
2021年09月08日
Growing avocados outdoors as productive fruit trees can be tricky, but growing them as houseplants is fun and easy, resulting in a seedling that will eventually turn into an attractive little specimen with glossy, oval leaves 4 to 8 inches long. True, it's unlikely your tree will ever bear fruit (unless you give it about 10 years), and even if it does, the fruit from the offspring most likely won't resemble the original. But as an indoor plant, an avocado has plenty of merit as a decorative novelty. Keep in mind that all parts of the avocado plant are toxic to animals.1
Common Name Avocado
Botanical Name Persea americana
Family Lauraceae
Plant Type Broadleaf evergreen fruit tree
Mature Size 30 to 60 ft. in the landscape; potted plants can be pruned to remain small
Sun Exposure Full sun
Soil Type General-purpose potting soil
Soil pH 6.0 to 6.5, tolerates acidic or alkaline soil
Bloom Time Seasonal bloomer
Flower Color Greenish-yellow
Hardiness Zones 10-12 (USDA), any zone as a houseplant
Native Area Mexico
Toxicity Toxic to dogs, birds, and horses
Avocado Plant Care
When avocado is grown as a houseplant, it is often grown from seed (the fruit pits) that can be sprouted in water or directly in potting soil.
Established plants will do best in sunny windows. Fertilize them regularly in spring and summer with a balanced granular fertilizer.
Avocados grown indoors are mostly novelty plants. If you want it to bear fruit and turn into the tree it really is, you'll have to move your avocado outside, but this may only work if you live in a warmer climate.
Light
Like banana trees, avocado plants thrive in full sun. They will tolerate some shade, but potted indoor plants generally need the brightest spot you can find. If you're starting from a seed, the seed can be kept on a bright windowsill until roots form, and the first leaves emerge.
Water
Avocado plants should be kept continuously moist, but adequate drainage is essential. Watch for leaf yellowing, which is a sign of too much water.
Temperature
Avocado plants prefer warm growing seasons, but can take winter temperatures down to 50 degrees Fahrenheit, when growth will slow.
Soil
A rich, fast-draining potting soil mix is ideal.
Fertilizer
Fertilize abundantly during the growing season with a balanced fertilizer.
Types of Avocado Plants
Although there are about 1,000 varieties of avocado, the one most likely to find its way into your home is the Haas avocado, which is grown in tremendous quantities in California and throughout Latin America. These are small, pebbly avocados with high-fat content and delicious flesh. Larger, lighter green Florida avocados are also found in season. These have less fat and are sometimes marketed as health-conscious avocados. You'll find plenty of healthy pits inside any of these types of avocados that you can use to grow your plants.
Pruning
The first serious trimming should occur when the plant is only 12 inches tall. At that time, cut it back to 6 inches and allow for new leaves and stems to form.
As it gets taller, pinch off new growth throughout the summer to force new branches to form, because avocado fruit develops on new growth. Keeping the new growth pinched off will also keep the plant bushy while controlling its size.
Propagating Avocado Plants
Avocado can be propagated in a number of ways., but is usually done for avocado trees planted in the landscape. Professionals graft desirable avocado varieties onto disease-resistant root-stock to produce a disease-resistant tree with the desired kind of fruit or preferred size.
They can also be propagated by air-layering: Encouraging roots to grow by scarring a tree branch, wrapping the wounded area with a small amount of rooting medium, and allowing a bundle of roots to develop while the branch is still on the tree. Once a network of roots are developed, the branch is snipped off and planted in soil.
How to Grow Avocado Plants From Seed
For houseplants, propagate an avocado plant with the seed of the fruit. The seed of an avocado is the large brown pit. Here's how to grow your avocado houseplant:
To sprout an avocado seed, insert three toothpicks into the seed and suspend it with the broad end down over a glass of water.
Cover about an inch of the seed with water.
Keep it in a warm place, but not in direct sunlight.
The seed should sprout in two to six weeks. Let the young plant grow to six inches, then cut it back to three inches to encourage stronger root growth.
When the roots have grown thick and the stem has new leaves again, plant in soil in a pot about 10 inches in diameter, leaving half the seed still exposed above the soil. Make sure the pot has a drainage hole.
Potting and Repotting Avocado Plants
Repot your avocado every spring when the plant begins to grow again. For the first few years, trimming your avocado is necessary to encourage a bushy plant. You can place the avocado outside during summer, and bring it inside before first frost.
Overwintering
Bring your plants inside if it's going to be below 50 degrees Fahrenheit. Winter's lack of humidity may cause your plant to lose leaves, but they will come back when the weather is warm.
Common Pests & Plant Diseases
Look for symptoms like leaf yellowing, which can indicate too much water or sluggish drainage. They may develop root rot in overly wet potting soil. Also, keep an eye out for a white crust on the soil, this means an excess of salt build-up from the fertilizer. Flush the pot regularly.2
When grown outdoors, avocado trees are threatened by laurel wilt, caused by the Raffaelea lauricola fungus. It is transmitted by several different species of ambrosia beetle. Infected trees usually succumb within 4 to 8 weeks.
Common Name Avocado
Botanical Name Persea americana
Family Lauraceae
Plant Type Broadleaf evergreen fruit tree
Mature Size 30 to 60 ft. in the landscape; potted plants can be pruned to remain small
Sun Exposure Full sun
Soil Type General-purpose potting soil
Soil pH 6.0 to 6.5, tolerates acidic or alkaline soil
Bloom Time Seasonal bloomer
Flower Color Greenish-yellow
Hardiness Zones 10-12 (USDA), any zone as a houseplant
Native Area Mexico
Toxicity Toxic to dogs, birds, and horses
Avocado Plant Care
When avocado is grown as a houseplant, it is often grown from seed (the fruit pits) that can be sprouted in water or directly in potting soil.
Established plants will do best in sunny windows. Fertilize them regularly in spring and summer with a balanced granular fertilizer.
Avocados grown indoors are mostly novelty plants. If you want it to bear fruit and turn into the tree it really is, you'll have to move your avocado outside, but this may only work if you live in a warmer climate.
Light
Like banana trees, avocado plants thrive in full sun. They will tolerate some shade, but potted indoor plants generally need the brightest spot you can find. If you're starting from a seed, the seed can be kept on a bright windowsill until roots form, and the first leaves emerge.
Water
Avocado plants should be kept continuously moist, but adequate drainage is essential. Watch for leaf yellowing, which is a sign of too much water.
Temperature
Avocado plants prefer warm growing seasons, but can take winter temperatures down to 50 degrees Fahrenheit, when growth will slow.
Soil
A rich, fast-draining potting soil mix is ideal.
Fertilizer
Fertilize abundantly during the growing season with a balanced fertilizer.
Types of Avocado Plants
Although there are about 1,000 varieties of avocado, the one most likely to find its way into your home is the Haas avocado, which is grown in tremendous quantities in California and throughout Latin America. These are small, pebbly avocados with high-fat content and delicious flesh. Larger, lighter green Florida avocados are also found in season. These have less fat and are sometimes marketed as health-conscious avocados. You'll find plenty of healthy pits inside any of these types of avocados that you can use to grow your plants.
Pruning
The first serious trimming should occur when the plant is only 12 inches tall. At that time, cut it back to 6 inches and allow for new leaves and stems to form.
As it gets taller, pinch off new growth throughout the summer to force new branches to form, because avocado fruit develops on new growth. Keeping the new growth pinched off will also keep the plant bushy while controlling its size.
Propagating Avocado Plants
Avocado can be propagated in a number of ways., but is usually done for avocado trees planted in the landscape. Professionals graft desirable avocado varieties onto disease-resistant root-stock to produce a disease-resistant tree with the desired kind of fruit or preferred size.
They can also be propagated by air-layering: Encouraging roots to grow by scarring a tree branch, wrapping the wounded area with a small amount of rooting medium, and allowing a bundle of roots to develop while the branch is still on the tree. Once a network of roots are developed, the branch is snipped off and planted in soil.
How to Grow Avocado Plants From Seed
For houseplants, propagate an avocado plant with the seed of the fruit. The seed of an avocado is the large brown pit. Here's how to grow your avocado houseplant:
To sprout an avocado seed, insert three toothpicks into the seed and suspend it with the broad end down over a glass of water.
Cover about an inch of the seed with water.
Keep it in a warm place, but not in direct sunlight.
The seed should sprout in two to six weeks. Let the young plant grow to six inches, then cut it back to three inches to encourage stronger root growth.
When the roots have grown thick and the stem has new leaves again, plant in soil in a pot about 10 inches in diameter, leaving half the seed still exposed above the soil. Make sure the pot has a drainage hole.
Potting and Repotting Avocado Plants
Repot your avocado every spring when the plant begins to grow again. For the first few years, trimming your avocado is necessary to encourage a bushy plant. You can place the avocado outside during summer, and bring it inside before first frost.
Overwintering
Bring your plants inside if it's going to be below 50 degrees Fahrenheit. Winter's lack of humidity may cause your plant to lose leaves, but they will come back when the weather is warm.
Common Pests & Plant Diseases
Look for symptoms like leaf yellowing, which can indicate too much water or sluggish drainage. They may develop root rot in overly wet potting soil. Also, keep an eye out for a white crust on the soil, this means an excess of salt build-up from the fertilizer. Flush the pot regularly.2
When grown outdoors, avocado trees are threatened by laurel wilt, caused by the Raffaelea lauricola fungus. It is transmitted by several different species of ambrosia beetle. Infected trees usually succumb within 4 to 8 weeks.
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文章
Miss Chen
2021年08月31日
Aubrieta, a cheerful ground cover, is a great candidate for edging your paths or tucking into stone walls if your site meets some basic growing requirements. When the profuse magenta flowers have faded, the grayish-green foliage maintains a handsome mat that covers bare areas under leggy roses or between paving stones on a garden path. These plants are far more common in Europe than in North America. The genus name derives from Claude Aubriet, a European landscape artist from the 17th century.
Botanical Name Aubrieta spp.
Common Name Aubrieta, false rock cress
Plant Type Herbaceous perennial
Mature Size 4 to 6 inches tall; 12-to 24-inch spread
Sun Exposure Full sun to part shade
Soil Type Lean, rocky soil
Soil pH 6.5 to 7.5 (slightly acidic to alkaline)
Bloom Time April, May
Flower Color Pink, purple, white
Hardiness Zones 4 to 9 (USDA)
Native Area Rocky regions of southwestern Europe
How to Grow Aubrieta
Aubrieta thrives best when planted in well-draining, alkaline soil in a full sun location. In midsummer, the foliage tends to die back and will benefit from a hard shearing. As a member of the mustard family, this is a tough plant that requires little care. Once established, it has a good tolerance for drought, and it resists nibbling by deer.
Aubrieta is rarely bothered by insect pests. Plants growing in damp, shady areas may experience downy mildew.1 Prevent this fungal disease by providing enough light and spacing for air circulation.
Light
Aubrieta plants shine in full sun, but will also grow in part shade. For best results, grow plants where they will receive at least a half-day of sun. Plants that grow in too much shade will lose their compact, mounded appearance, take on a leggy look, and have sparse flowers.
Soil
Aubrietas like a rocky, alkaline soil, which mimics the soil found in their native alpine habitats. If the pH is low, increase it with the addition of lime. Good drainage is important to prevent root rot.2 Use gravel, vermiculite, or another non-organic soil amendment that will help drainage without lowering soil pH.
Water
Aubrieta plants need a moderate amount of water, but they don't like wet feet. Rocky soils that prevent standing water will keep healthy root systems on your aubrieta plants.
Temperature and Humidity
Aubrieta plants grow best in areas with cool summers that mirror their alpine climate. Periods of high humidity are fine; in fact, the cool, damp climate of Great Britain or Washington state is where you are most likely to find extraordinary specimens of aubrieta plants.
Fertilizer
Aubrietas grow in lean soil and need no supplemental fertilizer to make beautiful blooms. At most, occasional watering with compost tea is all the feeding aubrieta plants need.
Being Grown in Containers
Aubrieta complements the container garden as a trailing plant, softening container edges. Plant it as a companion to other rock garden flowers with similar growing needs, like dianthus.
Potting and Repotting
Pot up your aubrieta plants with a lightweight all-purpose potting soil. A potting mix meant for cacti is also appropriate for aubrieta plants. Take care not to bury the foliage when potting up aubrieta. There are a few inches of brown stem beneath the foliage, and this is the working area of the plant when repotting. Lift the foliage, and carefully mound soil around the stems and roots to secure the plant in its place.
Pruning
Aubrieta can get a bit scraggly after blooming. Keep it tidy by trimming plants back after flowering. Use shears, and trim no more than half the plant's growth at any one time.
Propagating Aubrieta
You can divide aubrieta in early fall to increase your stock. Dig the plant, and tease the clump apart with your hands or a garden fork. Replant the divisions 12 inches apart.
Growing From Seeds
Aubrieta can be hard to find as nursery plants, so it is often grown from seed. Sow aubrieta seeds on top of sterile potting mix. The seeds need light for germination, so press seeds down but don't cover them. Keep seeds moist at about 68 degrees Fahrenheit. Germination will occur in two to three weeks.
Varieties of Aubrieta
'Rokey's Purple' is among the most commonly seen aubrieta in gardens; it features bright violet flowers.
'Doctor Mules Variegated' aubrieta offers a completely different look; it's important to know, however, that variegated types may revert to green, so prune away any all-green stems that form.
'Snowdrift' is a popular all-white cultivar.
Aubrieta vs. Creeping Phlox
The flowers and form of aubrieta and creeping phlox (Phlox subulata) are so similar as to be indistinguishable at first glance. Both plants grow as a creeping mat, spreading across the border's edge or trailing down walls. However, creeping phlox plants are more heat- and drought-tolerant than aubrieta, which may account for its preference in American gardens.
Landscape Uses
Spring-blooming aubrieta makes a perfect pocket plant for garden walls and rock gardens. The plants have a very small footprint and can establish a deep root system in the soil behind a retaining wall, while foliage and flowers can spread up to 18 inches or more, giving the appearance of a living wall. Aubrieta plants also provide good erosion control on hillsides and attract butterflies with their prolific spring flowers.
Botanical Name Aubrieta spp.
Common Name Aubrieta, false rock cress
Plant Type Herbaceous perennial
Mature Size 4 to 6 inches tall; 12-to 24-inch spread
Sun Exposure Full sun to part shade
Soil Type Lean, rocky soil
Soil pH 6.5 to 7.5 (slightly acidic to alkaline)
Bloom Time April, May
Flower Color Pink, purple, white
Hardiness Zones 4 to 9 (USDA)
Native Area Rocky regions of southwestern Europe
How to Grow Aubrieta
Aubrieta thrives best when planted in well-draining, alkaline soil in a full sun location. In midsummer, the foliage tends to die back and will benefit from a hard shearing. As a member of the mustard family, this is a tough plant that requires little care. Once established, it has a good tolerance for drought, and it resists nibbling by deer.
Aubrieta is rarely bothered by insect pests. Plants growing in damp, shady areas may experience downy mildew.1 Prevent this fungal disease by providing enough light and spacing for air circulation.
Light
Aubrieta plants shine in full sun, but will also grow in part shade. For best results, grow plants where they will receive at least a half-day of sun. Plants that grow in too much shade will lose their compact, mounded appearance, take on a leggy look, and have sparse flowers.
Soil
Aubrietas like a rocky, alkaline soil, which mimics the soil found in their native alpine habitats. If the pH is low, increase it with the addition of lime. Good drainage is important to prevent root rot.2 Use gravel, vermiculite, or another non-organic soil amendment that will help drainage without lowering soil pH.
Water
Aubrieta plants need a moderate amount of water, but they don't like wet feet. Rocky soils that prevent standing water will keep healthy root systems on your aubrieta plants.
Temperature and Humidity
Aubrieta plants grow best in areas with cool summers that mirror their alpine climate. Periods of high humidity are fine; in fact, the cool, damp climate of Great Britain or Washington state is where you are most likely to find extraordinary specimens of aubrieta plants.
Fertilizer
Aubrietas grow in lean soil and need no supplemental fertilizer to make beautiful blooms. At most, occasional watering with compost tea is all the feeding aubrieta plants need.
Being Grown in Containers
Aubrieta complements the container garden as a trailing plant, softening container edges. Plant it as a companion to other rock garden flowers with similar growing needs, like dianthus.
Potting and Repotting
Pot up your aubrieta plants with a lightweight all-purpose potting soil. A potting mix meant for cacti is also appropriate for aubrieta plants. Take care not to bury the foliage when potting up aubrieta. There are a few inches of brown stem beneath the foliage, and this is the working area of the plant when repotting. Lift the foliage, and carefully mound soil around the stems and roots to secure the plant in its place.
Pruning
Aubrieta can get a bit scraggly after blooming. Keep it tidy by trimming plants back after flowering. Use shears, and trim no more than half the plant's growth at any one time.
Propagating Aubrieta
You can divide aubrieta in early fall to increase your stock. Dig the plant, and tease the clump apart with your hands or a garden fork. Replant the divisions 12 inches apart.
Growing From Seeds
Aubrieta can be hard to find as nursery plants, so it is often grown from seed. Sow aubrieta seeds on top of sterile potting mix. The seeds need light for germination, so press seeds down but don't cover them. Keep seeds moist at about 68 degrees Fahrenheit. Germination will occur in two to three weeks.
Varieties of Aubrieta
'Rokey's Purple' is among the most commonly seen aubrieta in gardens; it features bright violet flowers.
'Doctor Mules Variegated' aubrieta offers a completely different look; it's important to know, however, that variegated types may revert to green, so prune away any all-green stems that form.
'Snowdrift' is a popular all-white cultivar.
Aubrieta vs. Creeping Phlox
The flowers and form of aubrieta and creeping phlox (Phlox subulata) are so similar as to be indistinguishable at first glance. Both plants grow as a creeping mat, spreading across the border's edge or trailing down walls. However, creeping phlox plants are more heat- and drought-tolerant than aubrieta, which may account for its preference in American gardens.
Landscape Uses
Spring-blooming aubrieta makes a perfect pocket plant for garden walls and rock gardens. The plants have a very small footprint and can establish a deep root system in the soil behind a retaining wall, while foliage and flowers can spread up to 18 inches or more, giving the appearance of a living wall. Aubrieta plants also provide good erosion control on hillsides and attract butterflies with their prolific spring flowers.
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文章
Miss Chen
2021年08月25日
Asparagus is one of the first vegetables that is ready to harvest in the spring and also one of the few perennial vegetables grown in the garden. Since it will be in the same spot for years, it's important to find a spot where it will have all the growing conditions it needs. Asparagus plants are slow to mature, taking three to five years to really fill in and mature, but it's worth the wait. Once they start hitting their stride, you will be harvesting asparagus spears for more than a month every spring.
The asparagus spears are straight young shoots of the plant, with scale-like tips. Later in the season, the foliage matures into an airy, light-green, fern-like cloud, which changes to a golden color in the fall. This perennial is typically planted from roots, or crowns, in early spring.
Botanical Name Asparagus officinalis
Common Name Asparagus
Plant Type Perennial vegetable
Mature Size 5 feet tall, 3 feet wide
Sun Exposure Full sun
Soil Type Sandy, loamy
Soil pH Acidic to neutral (6.0 to 7.0)
Bloom Time Spring, summer, fall, winter
Flower Color Pale yellow, greenish
Hardiness Zones 4 to 9
Native Area Europe, Africa
How to Plant Asparagus
Since you won't be harvesting for three years, asparagus requires some patience and preparation. Because asparagus is a perennial, you'll need to pick an out-of-the-way spot in the vegetable garden without competing plants. Asparagus also needs space, about 4 to 5 feet for each plant. They won’t spread out much the first couple of years, but once established they will quickly fill in. Heirloom varieties need extra space, as there are both males and female plants, meaning they will produce seeds and will self-sow. Newer hybrid varieties are bred to produce only male plants that don't produce seeds, so they need a little less space, as they'll spread only through the growth of the existing crown.
Plants can be started from seed about four weeks before the last expected frost. However, seeds will add several years to your wait. Most people find it easier to grow asparagus from crowns, which are widely available in the spring. They look like a worn out string mop, but they are very much alive. Unlike many plants, the roots of asparagus crowns can withstand some air exposure, and you will usually find them for sale loose. They should look firm and fresh, not withered or mushy.
The most common way to plant asparagus crowns is in a trench. In the spring, dig a trench about 12 inches deep and 12 inches wide. Combine your compost, fertilizer, or other organic matter, and create mounds with it about 18 inches apart. Set the crown on top of the mound, spreading the roots down the sides. The top of the crown should be about 6 inches below the soil line. Cover the crown with soil, and water well. As shoots appear, add more soil to fill the trench until it's ultimately filled and flush with the soil line.
Remove weeds when preparing the bed, and keep weeding while the asparagus plants are young. Asparagus roots form a tightly woven mat, from which it is challenging to remove weeds. Add mulch to the asparagus bed to control weeds. Do not add any other plants to the asparagus bed—they dislike any competition for nutrients.
Asparagus Care
Light
Asparagus plants grow best in full sun. Without enough daily sunlight, you will wind up with thin spears and weak plants that are prone to problems.
Soil
For a long-lived perennial like asparagus, it pays to take the time to improve your soil before you plant it. Work in plenty of organic matter and make sure the soil pH is in the neutral 6.5 to 7.0 range. Also get rid of any weeds and large stones in the area before planting. The soil must drain well so the plants are never sitting in water.
Water
Asparagus needs regular watering, especially while young; give it 1 to 2 inches of water per week during its first two growing seasons; give older plants about 1 inch per week. If you give them a good start when you first plant them, and you'll have fewer problems in future years. Consider adding drip irrigation or a soaker hose to the asparagus bed.
Temperature and Humidity
During the growing season, asparagus prefers a temperature of 70 to 85 degrees Fahrenheit during the day and 60 to 70 degrees at night. In the spring, it will begin to grow shoots when the soil temperature reaches 50 degrees. Any frost after the shoots start growing will cause discoloration. You may see slow growth with temperatures above 85 or below 55 degrees.
Fertilizer
When preparing your asparagus bed, add compost and an all-purpose organic fertilizer to the trench, as well as rock phosphate, a natural mineral powder that promotes root growth. These nutrients will help your asparagus develop a good, strong root system. To keep the soil rich and help feed the asparagus plants, top dress the soil annually with compost. You can do this in early spring before the shoots appear, or in the fall after the fronds have died back and been cut to the ground. Asparagus is a heavy feeder, and you should also give it a dose of fertilizer in mid-spring when it is actively growing.
Varieties of Asparagus
The newer cultivars are bred to be all male, which means they will put all their energy into growing the plant, not setting seed. Some popular choices include:
'Mary Washington': The most commonly found variety; bred for rust-resistance
'Jersey Giant': Yields early and is resistant to rust and fusarium wilt
'Brock Imperial': Prized for its high yield
'Princeville': Does well in warmer climates
'Purple Passion': A sweet purple variety
Green vs. White Asparagus
White asparagus is the same plant as green asparagus, but it is made white through a process called blanching, which deprives the plant of light so it does not photosynthesize. This is accomplished by covering the growing spears with either soil or plastic tunnels. The final product is smooth, white and virtually fiber-free, provided the harvested spears are immediately chilled to prevent the fiber from forming.
Harvesting
You should not begin harvesting your asparagus spears until the third year after they are planted. They need that time to become established and build up their root systems. This is especially true the first year of planting, when the shoots aren't large. For healthy, well-established asparagus plants, patience is key.
You can harvest a few spears in the third year of growth. The plants are not fully mature, so harvest for two weeks, then let the new spears grow undisturbed after that initial harvest. Fronds will unfurl from the spears, creating the pretty, airy foliage that feeds the plant.
In the fourth year, begin harvesting spears that are 5 to 7 inches long before the tip becomes loose (diameter doesn't matter). You can either snap off the spears or cut them with a knife, just above the soil line. If you use a knife, be careful you don't also slice the later shoots that are still underground and haven't yet poked through. Your harvest time can extend to three weeks.
Harvest for about four to six weeks in the fifth year. In subsequent years, the shoots will continue emerging from the soil throughout the spring. After you've been harvesting for more than a month and the weather starts to warm, the shoots will begin to get spindly. At this point, allow the plants to grow into their mature ferny foliage, which will feed the roots for next year's crop. Asparagus plants can continue producing for 20 to 30 years and can be divided or transplanted if they become overcrowded or could benefit from a move.
Overwintering
Asparagus plants need to be cut to the ground each year before new growth starts. You can do this in late winter or fall. Removing the dead foliage in the fall offers the advantage of preventing problems, like asparagus beetles, from over-wintering in them. However, some gardeners like to leave the foliage for winter interest.
Common Pests
Asparagus does not have too many problems in the garden. Fusarium wilt can be a problem with older varieties, but you can avoid it by planting resistant hybrid varieties.1 The biggest pest is the asparagus beetle.2 Keep watch for them as the spears emerge in spring. They're most active in the afternoon. Hand pick the beetles and drop them in a bucket of soapy water when there are only a few. Otherwise, diluted Neem oil should keep them under control.
The asparagus spears are straight young shoots of the plant, with scale-like tips. Later in the season, the foliage matures into an airy, light-green, fern-like cloud, which changes to a golden color in the fall. This perennial is typically planted from roots, or crowns, in early spring.
Botanical Name Asparagus officinalis
Common Name Asparagus
Plant Type Perennial vegetable
Mature Size 5 feet tall, 3 feet wide
Sun Exposure Full sun
Soil Type Sandy, loamy
Soil pH Acidic to neutral (6.0 to 7.0)
Bloom Time Spring, summer, fall, winter
Flower Color Pale yellow, greenish
Hardiness Zones 4 to 9
Native Area Europe, Africa
How to Plant Asparagus
Since you won't be harvesting for three years, asparagus requires some patience and preparation. Because asparagus is a perennial, you'll need to pick an out-of-the-way spot in the vegetable garden without competing plants. Asparagus also needs space, about 4 to 5 feet for each plant. They won’t spread out much the first couple of years, but once established they will quickly fill in. Heirloom varieties need extra space, as there are both males and female plants, meaning they will produce seeds and will self-sow. Newer hybrid varieties are bred to produce only male plants that don't produce seeds, so they need a little less space, as they'll spread only through the growth of the existing crown.
Plants can be started from seed about four weeks before the last expected frost. However, seeds will add several years to your wait. Most people find it easier to grow asparagus from crowns, which are widely available in the spring. They look like a worn out string mop, but they are very much alive. Unlike many plants, the roots of asparagus crowns can withstand some air exposure, and you will usually find them for sale loose. They should look firm and fresh, not withered or mushy.
The most common way to plant asparagus crowns is in a trench. In the spring, dig a trench about 12 inches deep and 12 inches wide. Combine your compost, fertilizer, or other organic matter, and create mounds with it about 18 inches apart. Set the crown on top of the mound, spreading the roots down the sides. The top of the crown should be about 6 inches below the soil line. Cover the crown with soil, and water well. As shoots appear, add more soil to fill the trench until it's ultimately filled and flush with the soil line.
Remove weeds when preparing the bed, and keep weeding while the asparagus plants are young. Asparagus roots form a tightly woven mat, from which it is challenging to remove weeds. Add mulch to the asparagus bed to control weeds. Do not add any other plants to the asparagus bed—they dislike any competition for nutrients.
Asparagus Care
Light
Asparagus plants grow best in full sun. Without enough daily sunlight, you will wind up with thin spears and weak plants that are prone to problems.
Soil
For a long-lived perennial like asparagus, it pays to take the time to improve your soil before you plant it. Work in plenty of organic matter and make sure the soil pH is in the neutral 6.5 to 7.0 range. Also get rid of any weeds and large stones in the area before planting. The soil must drain well so the plants are never sitting in water.
Water
Asparagus needs regular watering, especially while young; give it 1 to 2 inches of water per week during its first two growing seasons; give older plants about 1 inch per week. If you give them a good start when you first plant them, and you'll have fewer problems in future years. Consider adding drip irrigation or a soaker hose to the asparagus bed.
Temperature and Humidity
During the growing season, asparagus prefers a temperature of 70 to 85 degrees Fahrenheit during the day and 60 to 70 degrees at night. In the spring, it will begin to grow shoots when the soil temperature reaches 50 degrees. Any frost after the shoots start growing will cause discoloration. You may see slow growth with temperatures above 85 or below 55 degrees.
Fertilizer
When preparing your asparagus bed, add compost and an all-purpose organic fertilizer to the trench, as well as rock phosphate, a natural mineral powder that promotes root growth. These nutrients will help your asparagus develop a good, strong root system. To keep the soil rich and help feed the asparagus plants, top dress the soil annually with compost. You can do this in early spring before the shoots appear, or in the fall after the fronds have died back and been cut to the ground. Asparagus is a heavy feeder, and you should also give it a dose of fertilizer in mid-spring when it is actively growing.
Varieties of Asparagus
The newer cultivars are bred to be all male, which means they will put all their energy into growing the plant, not setting seed. Some popular choices include:
'Mary Washington': The most commonly found variety; bred for rust-resistance
'Jersey Giant': Yields early and is resistant to rust and fusarium wilt
'Brock Imperial': Prized for its high yield
'Princeville': Does well in warmer climates
'Purple Passion': A sweet purple variety
Green vs. White Asparagus
White asparagus is the same plant as green asparagus, but it is made white through a process called blanching, which deprives the plant of light so it does not photosynthesize. This is accomplished by covering the growing spears with either soil or plastic tunnels. The final product is smooth, white and virtually fiber-free, provided the harvested spears are immediately chilled to prevent the fiber from forming.
Harvesting
You should not begin harvesting your asparagus spears until the third year after they are planted. They need that time to become established and build up their root systems. This is especially true the first year of planting, when the shoots aren't large. For healthy, well-established asparagus plants, patience is key.
You can harvest a few spears in the third year of growth. The plants are not fully mature, so harvest for two weeks, then let the new spears grow undisturbed after that initial harvest. Fronds will unfurl from the spears, creating the pretty, airy foliage that feeds the plant.
In the fourth year, begin harvesting spears that are 5 to 7 inches long before the tip becomes loose (diameter doesn't matter). You can either snap off the spears or cut them with a knife, just above the soil line. If you use a knife, be careful you don't also slice the later shoots that are still underground and haven't yet poked through. Your harvest time can extend to three weeks.
Harvest for about four to six weeks in the fifth year. In subsequent years, the shoots will continue emerging from the soil throughout the spring. After you've been harvesting for more than a month and the weather starts to warm, the shoots will begin to get spindly. At this point, allow the plants to grow into their mature ferny foliage, which will feed the roots for next year's crop. Asparagus plants can continue producing for 20 to 30 years and can be divided or transplanted if they become overcrowded or could benefit from a move.
Overwintering
Asparagus plants need to be cut to the ground each year before new growth starts. You can do this in late winter or fall. Removing the dead foliage in the fall offers the advantage of preventing problems, like asparagus beetles, from over-wintering in them. However, some gardeners like to leave the foliage for winter interest.
Common Pests
Asparagus does not have too many problems in the garden. Fusarium wilt can be a problem with older varieties, but you can avoid it by planting resistant hybrid varieties.1 The biggest pest is the asparagus beetle.2 Keep watch for them as the spears emerge in spring. They're most active in the afternoon. Hand pick the beetles and drop them in a bucket of soapy water when there are only a few. Otherwise, diluted Neem oil should keep them under control.
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文章
Miss Chen
2021年08月06日
'Angelina' stonecrop (Sedum rupestre 'Angelina') is a perennial, evergreen plant with succulent foliage that forms a low-growing mat. The name "stonecrop" comes from Middle English and refers to the plant's ability to grow in rocky, gravelly areas. The 'Angelina' cultivar of S. rupestre features chartreuse or golden needle-like foliage, depending on how much sun it gets (more sun results in more golden leaves). It sports tiny yellow flowers throughout the summer. And in the fall, the foliage takes on an orange or rust tone.
Sunshine and good drainage are key to this plant's success. Because of its chartreuse or golden color, it looks especially good when combined with plants that have dark foliage. Mass the plants together for use as a ground cover or perennial border. 'Angelina' also makes for a nice rock garden plant and can be placed between stones in a retaining wall. It can also be planted in patio containers and hanging baskets.
'Angelina' is generally planted in the spring, but this tough plant can really be planted almost any time. It has a moderately fast growth rate, but it may take a year or two before it flowers.
Botanical Name Sedum rupestre 'Angelina'
Common Name Angelina stonecrop
Plant Type Herbaceous perennial
Mature Size 4–6 inches tall, 1– 3-feet wide
Sun Exposure Full sun to part shade
Soil Type Average, dry to medium moisture, well-draining
Soil pH 6.0 to 7.0 (slightly acidic to neutral)
Bloom Time Summer
Flower Color Yellow
Hardiness Zones 3 to 9 (USDA)
Native Area Europe, Asia
'Angelina' Stonecrop Care
Ideally, you should plant 'Angelina' in a full-sun location, in dry to medium-moisture soil that is well-drained. The plant has a good tolerance for gravelly or sandy soils. Space the plants 8 to 12 inches apart, as they will quickly spread. 'Angelina' stonecrop is a fast-growing ground cover that stays short (around 6 inches tall) and quickly spreads to form a mat.
Once established, this plant requires little in the way of watering or feeding. Just make sure it doesn't sit in soggy soil. Like most stonecrops, 'Angelina' is relatively free of pest and disease problems, although slugs and snails may eat the foliage. Scale insects also sometimes appear.
Light
Grow 'Angelina' stonecrop in full sun if possible, though it will tolerate some shade. Its golden foliage will show best color if it is grown full sun.
Soil
This plant prefers a well-draining soil with a neutral pH. It does well in sandy and gravelly soils that aren’t very fertile. Its roots are shallow, but they’re able to spread through small crevices in rocky terrain.
Water
'Angelina' needs regular watering after you first plant it. But it is a drought-tolerant ground cover once established. Heavy clay soil or other waterlogged sites can kill the plant. However, plants grown in a container might need more frequent waterings than those planted in the ground.
Temperature and Humidity
Suitable for USDA zones 5 to 8, 'Angelina' stonecrop is somewhat tolerant to cold weather during the growing season. It can handle temperatures several degrees below freezing and still bounce back just fine. It also tolerates high heat and humidity well, as long as it’s not stuck in standing water.
Fertilizer
Stonecrop plants generally prefer lean soil, so fertilizer usually won't be necessary for this plant. Chemical fertilizer can cause 'Angelina' to stretch and flop. If your soil is lacking nutrients, consider using compost instead of chemical fertilizer
Related Stonecrop Varieties
There are several other varieties of stonecrop that are easy to grow in the garden:
Dragon's Blood sedum (Sedum spurium 'Fuldaglut'): This is another good groundcover plant, growing 3 to 5 inches tall with plentiful rose-red flowers.
Blue spruce stonecrop: (Sedum 'Blue Spruce'): This cultivar has bluish foliage that grows around 6 to 9 inches tall with a 1- to 1 1/2-foot spread. Small, star-shaped, yellow flowers emerge in June and July. It adapts to many soil conditions, as long as there is good drainage.
Purple emperor stonecrop (Sedum 'Purple Emperor’): This is a hybrid stonecrop with dark purple foliage. It grows upright at a little more than 1 foot in height and spread. And it sports tiny masses of pinkish-purple flowers from around July to September.
Autumn joy stonecrop (Hylotelephium 'Herbstfreude'): This stonecrop—no longer classified in the Sedum genus—also grows in average, well-draining soil with dry to medium moisture. It reaches around 18 to 24 inches in height and spread. And it features fall blooms that start out pink and gradually turn to a rose red.
Propagating 'Angelina' Stonecrop
'Angelina' stonecrop plants are easy to propagate by rooting. In fact, stems that break off from the main plant fall to the ground often root all by themselves. If you're looking for a plant that's well-behaved and doesn't spread into neighboring garden areas, this might not be the best choice for you.
To purposely propagate' Angelina', snip off a piece of stem 2 to 5 inches. Then, plant it in a well-draining potting mix and keep the soil moist while you’re waiting for roots to take hold. After around two to three weeks, you should feel resistance when you gently tug on the stem, meaning it has rooted. At this point, it’s ready for planting in the garden. Propagating with this method usually is successful at any point during the growing season, thanks to the plant's hardiness, but it's best done in late spring or early summer.
Pruning
Most gardeners prune 'Angelina' stonecrop plants only if they feel the plants have become too large. Using hand pruners, simply trim off any overgrown stems from where you don’t want them to shape the plant. Also, remove any dead or diseased material whenever you spot it. Pruning typically can be done at any time of year without harming the plant. But as a precaution, avoid pruning during extreme hot or cold temperatures.
Furthermore, your plant might not bloom during its first year. But whenever it does bloom, it will produce clusters of star-shaped yellow flowers on tall stalks. These yellow flower clusters, which arise in the summer, are reasonably attractive. However, some gardeners find the flower stalks to be awkwardly tall. And once the blooms fade, you are left with rather ugly brown stalks, which you can prune whenever you like.
Sunshine and good drainage are key to this plant's success. Because of its chartreuse or golden color, it looks especially good when combined with plants that have dark foliage. Mass the plants together for use as a ground cover or perennial border. 'Angelina' also makes for a nice rock garden plant and can be placed between stones in a retaining wall. It can also be planted in patio containers and hanging baskets.
'Angelina' is generally planted in the spring, but this tough plant can really be planted almost any time. It has a moderately fast growth rate, but it may take a year or two before it flowers.
Botanical Name Sedum rupestre 'Angelina'
Common Name Angelina stonecrop
Plant Type Herbaceous perennial
Mature Size 4–6 inches tall, 1– 3-feet wide
Sun Exposure Full sun to part shade
Soil Type Average, dry to medium moisture, well-draining
Soil pH 6.0 to 7.0 (slightly acidic to neutral)
Bloom Time Summer
Flower Color Yellow
Hardiness Zones 3 to 9 (USDA)
Native Area Europe, Asia
'Angelina' Stonecrop Care
Ideally, you should plant 'Angelina' in a full-sun location, in dry to medium-moisture soil that is well-drained. The plant has a good tolerance for gravelly or sandy soils. Space the plants 8 to 12 inches apart, as they will quickly spread. 'Angelina' stonecrop is a fast-growing ground cover that stays short (around 6 inches tall) and quickly spreads to form a mat.
Once established, this plant requires little in the way of watering or feeding. Just make sure it doesn't sit in soggy soil. Like most stonecrops, 'Angelina' is relatively free of pest and disease problems, although slugs and snails may eat the foliage. Scale insects also sometimes appear.
Light
Grow 'Angelina' stonecrop in full sun if possible, though it will tolerate some shade. Its golden foliage will show best color if it is grown full sun.
Soil
This plant prefers a well-draining soil with a neutral pH. It does well in sandy and gravelly soils that aren’t very fertile. Its roots are shallow, but they’re able to spread through small crevices in rocky terrain.
Water
'Angelina' needs regular watering after you first plant it. But it is a drought-tolerant ground cover once established. Heavy clay soil or other waterlogged sites can kill the plant. However, plants grown in a container might need more frequent waterings than those planted in the ground.
Temperature and Humidity
Suitable for USDA zones 5 to 8, 'Angelina' stonecrop is somewhat tolerant to cold weather during the growing season. It can handle temperatures several degrees below freezing and still bounce back just fine. It also tolerates high heat and humidity well, as long as it’s not stuck in standing water.
Fertilizer
Stonecrop plants generally prefer lean soil, so fertilizer usually won't be necessary for this plant. Chemical fertilizer can cause 'Angelina' to stretch and flop. If your soil is lacking nutrients, consider using compost instead of chemical fertilizer
Related Stonecrop Varieties
There are several other varieties of stonecrop that are easy to grow in the garden:
Dragon's Blood sedum (Sedum spurium 'Fuldaglut'): This is another good groundcover plant, growing 3 to 5 inches tall with plentiful rose-red flowers.
Blue spruce stonecrop: (Sedum 'Blue Spruce'): This cultivar has bluish foliage that grows around 6 to 9 inches tall with a 1- to 1 1/2-foot spread. Small, star-shaped, yellow flowers emerge in June and July. It adapts to many soil conditions, as long as there is good drainage.
Purple emperor stonecrop (Sedum 'Purple Emperor’): This is a hybrid stonecrop with dark purple foliage. It grows upright at a little more than 1 foot in height and spread. And it sports tiny masses of pinkish-purple flowers from around July to September.
Autumn joy stonecrop (Hylotelephium 'Herbstfreude'): This stonecrop—no longer classified in the Sedum genus—also grows in average, well-draining soil with dry to medium moisture. It reaches around 18 to 24 inches in height and spread. And it features fall blooms that start out pink and gradually turn to a rose red.
Propagating 'Angelina' Stonecrop
'Angelina' stonecrop plants are easy to propagate by rooting. In fact, stems that break off from the main plant fall to the ground often root all by themselves. If you're looking for a plant that's well-behaved and doesn't spread into neighboring garden areas, this might not be the best choice for you.
To purposely propagate' Angelina', snip off a piece of stem 2 to 5 inches. Then, plant it in a well-draining potting mix and keep the soil moist while you’re waiting for roots to take hold. After around two to three weeks, you should feel resistance when you gently tug on the stem, meaning it has rooted. At this point, it’s ready for planting in the garden. Propagating with this method usually is successful at any point during the growing season, thanks to the plant's hardiness, but it's best done in late spring or early summer.
Pruning
Most gardeners prune 'Angelina' stonecrop plants only if they feel the plants have become too large. Using hand pruners, simply trim off any overgrown stems from where you don’t want them to shape the plant. Also, remove any dead or diseased material whenever you spot it. Pruning typically can be done at any time of year without harming the plant. But as a precaution, avoid pruning during extreme hot or cold temperatures.
Furthermore, your plant might not bloom during its first year. But whenever it does bloom, it will produce clusters of star-shaped yellow flowers on tall stalks. These yellow flower clusters, which arise in the summer, are reasonably attractive. However, some gardeners find the flower stalks to be awkwardly tall. And once the blooms fade, you are left with rather ugly brown stalks, which you can prune whenever you like.
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文章
Miss Chen
2021年08月04日
Angel's trumpet (Datura inoxia), which also goes by the common name of pricklyburr, is a perennial flower that is native to warm climates. In cooler climates, it’s often grown as an annual. The plant has a small, shrub-like appearance, growing wider than it is tall. It features dark green, oval leaves that can reach up to 8 inches long and have a soft texture. And it blooms sporadically with fragrant, upward-facing, trumpet-shaped flowers in the summer and fall that can grow up to 7 inches long and 4 inches at their widest part.
The plant is closely related to the Brugmansia genus, which also features trumpet-shaped flowers and uses the common name of angel’s trumpet. However, Brugmansia flowers are generally larger and last longer than Datura flowers. Angel’s trumpet should be planted in the spring after the danger of frost has passed and the ground has warmed. The plant has a fairly rapid growth rate.
Botanical Name Datura inoxia
Common Names Angel’s trumpet, pricklyburr, downy thorn apple, desert thorn apple, Indian apple, moonflower, sacred datura
Plant Type Herbaceous, perennial
Mature Size 2–3 ft. tall, 3–6 ft. wide
Sun Exposure Full
Soil Type Loamy, well-drained
Soil pH Neutral, alkaline
Bloom Time Summer, fall
Flower Color Cream, pink, lavender
Hardiness Zones 9–10 (USDA)
Native Area North America, Central America, South America
Toxicity Toxic to people and animals
Angel's Trumpet Care
Angel’s trumpet plants are fairly easy to care for. You can either purchase nursery plants in the spring or start seeds indoors roughly seven weeks before your area’s projected last frost date. Transplant young plants into the garden once spring temperatures are reliably warm. Be sure to space your plants at least a few feet apart to account for their mature size, as crowded angel’s trumpet plants often produce fewer blooms. Select a planting site that gets a lot of sunlight, a key to healthy growth for angel's trumpet.
There is no need to deadhead (remove spent blooms) your angel’s trumpet plant, but you can if you wish to keep the plant looking tidy and prevent it from self-seeding. Deadheading also can help to stretch out the plant’s overall blooming period. Pruning typically isn’t necessary, but you can lightly trim the plant at any point during the growing season to keep its shape neat and growth in check. Prune off any dead, damaged, or diseased stems as they arise. Angel’s trumpet usually doesn’t have any major issues with pests or diseases. But it can be afflicted by some common plant pests, including whiteflies, mealybugs, and spider mites. Treat any issues with an insecticide or a natural remedy as soon as you spot them.
Light
Angel’s trumpet does best growing in full sun, meaning at least six hours of direct sunlight on most days. It can grow in partial shade, but this often will cause the plant to be leggier and produce fewer flowers.
Soil
The plant can survive in a variety of soil types. But it prefers a rich, loamy soil with sharp drainage. A neutral or slightly alkaline soil pH is best, and it can even tolerate very alkaline soil. For container plants, a loose all-purpose potting mix is generally fine.
Water
This flower has moderate moisture needs. During its first growing season, water regularly to keep the soil evenly moist but not soggy. Standing water can lead to root rot on a plant. Mature plants have some drought tolerance but still prefer a weekly watering during spells without rainfall and/or during the warmest parts of the year. Water whenever the soil has dried out about an inch down. Reduce watering in the winter; only water to prevent the soil from completely drying out.
Temperature and Humidity
Angel’s trumpet prefers warm temperatures. It has good heat tolerance as long as its moisture needs are met. But it’s not very cold hardy, and frost and freezing temperatures can damage or kill it. Ideally it should be kept in temperatures above 50 degrees Fahrenheit. Humidity typically isn’t an issue for the plant with proper watering. It’s possible to bring angel’s trumpet indoors for the winter in areas outside of its growing zones. Place it by a bright window, and protect it from drafts. But many growers prefer simply to start new plants in the spring.
Fertilizer
If you have rich soil, supplemental fertilization might not be necessary. But if you need to give your plant a boost, feed it in the spring with a fertilizer made for flowering plants, following label instructions. Compost mixed into the soil in the spring can also be beneficial.
Angel's Trumpet Varieties
There are several other Datura species that also use the common name of angel’s trumpet, including:
Datura metel: This species is slightly more cold-tolerant than Datura inoxia but otherwise is very similar to the plant.
Datura ferox: Also known as the long-spined thorn apple, this species sports intimidatingly large spines on its seed pods.
Datura stramonium: Commonly called thorn apple or jimsonweed, this plant also is notable for its small, prickly seed capsules, as well as its trumpet-shaped flowers.
The plant is closely related to the Brugmansia genus, which also features trumpet-shaped flowers and uses the common name of angel’s trumpet. However, Brugmansia flowers are generally larger and last longer than Datura flowers. Angel’s trumpet should be planted in the spring after the danger of frost has passed and the ground has warmed. The plant has a fairly rapid growth rate.
Botanical Name Datura inoxia
Common Names Angel’s trumpet, pricklyburr, downy thorn apple, desert thorn apple, Indian apple, moonflower, sacred datura
Plant Type Herbaceous, perennial
Mature Size 2–3 ft. tall, 3–6 ft. wide
Sun Exposure Full
Soil Type Loamy, well-drained
Soil pH Neutral, alkaline
Bloom Time Summer, fall
Flower Color Cream, pink, lavender
Hardiness Zones 9–10 (USDA)
Native Area North America, Central America, South America
Toxicity Toxic to people and animals
Angel's Trumpet Care
Angel’s trumpet plants are fairly easy to care for. You can either purchase nursery plants in the spring or start seeds indoors roughly seven weeks before your area’s projected last frost date. Transplant young plants into the garden once spring temperatures are reliably warm. Be sure to space your plants at least a few feet apart to account for their mature size, as crowded angel’s trumpet plants often produce fewer blooms. Select a planting site that gets a lot of sunlight, a key to healthy growth for angel's trumpet.
There is no need to deadhead (remove spent blooms) your angel’s trumpet plant, but you can if you wish to keep the plant looking tidy and prevent it from self-seeding. Deadheading also can help to stretch out the plant’s overall blooming period. Pruning typically isn’t necessary, but you can lightly trim the plant at any point during the growing season to keep its shape neat and growth in check. Prune off any dead, damaged, or diseased stems as they arise. Angel’s trumpet usually doesn’t have any major issues with pests or diseases. But it can be afflicted by some common plant pests, including whiteflies, mealybugs, and spider mites. Treat any issues with an insecticide or a natural remedy as soon as you spot them.
Light
Angel’s trumpet does best growing in full sun, meaning at least six hours of direct sunlight on most days. It can grow in partial shade, but this often will cause the plant to be leggier and produce fewer flowers.
Soil
The plant can survive in a variety of soil types. But it prefers a rich, loamy soil with sharp drainage. A neutral or slightly alkaline soil pH is best, and it can even tolerate very alkaline soil. For container plants, a loose all-purpose potting mix is generally fine.
Water
This flower has moderate moisture needs. During its first growing season, water regularly to keep the soil evenly moist but not soggy. Standing water can lead to root rot on a plant. Mature plants have some drought tolerance but still prefer a weekly watering during spells without rainfall and/or during the warmest parts of the year. Water whenever the soil has dried out about an inch down. Reduce watering in the winter; only water to prevent the soil from completely drying out.
Temperature and Humidity
Angel’s trumpet prefers warm temperatures. It has good heat tolerance as long as its moisture needs are met. But it’s not very cold hardy, and frost and freezing temperatures can damage or kill it. Ideally it should be kept in temperatures above 50 degrees Fahrenheit. Humidity typically isn’t an issue for the plant with proper watering. It’s possible to bring angel’s trumpet indoors for the winter in areas outside of its growing zones. Place it by a bright window, and protect it from drafts. But many growers prefer simply to start new plants in the spring.
Fertilizer
If you have rich soil, supplemental fertilization might not be necessary. But if you need to give your plant a boost, feed it in the spring with a fertilizer made for flowering plants, following label instructions. Compost mixed into the soil in the spring can also be beneficial.
Angel's Trumpet Varieties
There are several other Datura species that also use the common name of angel’s trumpet, including:
Datura metel: This species is slightly more cold-tolerant than Datura inoxia but otherwise is very similar to the plant.
Datura ferox: Also known as the long-spined thorn apple, this species sports intimidatingly large spines on its seed pods.
Datura stramonium: Commonly called thorn apple or jimsonweed, this plant also is notable for its small, prickly seed capsules, as well as its trumpet-shaped flowers.
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文章
Miss Chen
2021年07月27日
The American elderberry (Sambucus canadensis) is a deciduous shrub that comes from North America. It is also known as the pie elder, American elder, black elderberry, elder-blow, sweet elder, or just elderberry. In late June, this fast-growing plant is covered with clusters of tiny white flowers that are followed by purplish-black fruit.
The botanical name associated with this shrub is Sambucus canadensis and it is in the Adoxaceae family or Caprofoliaceae, depending on the botanist. Some consider this to be a subspecies of the common elderberry and write the name as Sambucus nigra subsp. canadensis. It should be planted in the spring.
Botanical Name Sambucus canadensis
Common Name American Elderberry
Plant Type Shrub
Mature Size 10–15 feet
Sun Exposure Full sun to partial shade
Soil Type Rich, well-draining, loamy
Soil pH Acidic
Bloom Time Spring
Flower Color White
Hardiness Zones 3–10
Native Area North America
Toxicity Toxic to people and pets; fruit is non-toxic to people once cooked
American Elderberry Care
American elderberry shrubs are prolific in the wild, so it's no surprise that when planted in a garden, they're easy to maintain and tolerate a wide variety of growing conditions. Once established, elderberry shrubs will be with you for the long haul.
American elderberry shrubs are 10 to 15 feet tall and wide, growing into a rounded shape. They're an excellent addition to a wildlife garden since birds love to eat the fruit. Its flowers will also attract butterflies. If you have a stream or pond on your property, elderberries can provide erosion control when planted on the banks.
Although they will usually thrive even when neglected, if you're growing elderberry shrubs for fruit, you can maximize your harvest by following the guidelines outlined below.
Light
Elderberry shrubs need full sun exposure to partial shade.
Soil
The American elderberry is a good choice if you have a location that tends to be moist or wet. That said, the site should also drain well to discourage root rot. Elderberry shrubs are able to handle a pH range from acidic to alkaline, but do best in slightly acidic soil.
Water
Elderberries need a lot of water, but as long as the roots have had a chance to anchor themselves, the shrub can handle periods of drought. The soil around an elderberry shrub should be moist, but not waterlogged.
Temperature and Humidity
American elderberry shrubs' easygoing nature extends to temperature and humidity as well. While elderberries thrive in zones 3–11, they're deciduous through zone 8, and evergreen in zones 9–11, where there is no frost.
Fertilizer
Before planting American elderberry shrubs, turn the soil with compost. Then, fertilize annually with additional compost in the springtime.
American Elderberry Varieties
'Aurea' cultivar': a shrub with yellow leaves, and red fruit instead of black
'Variegata': for foliage with variegation
'Laciniata': offers lacy dissected leaves
'Adams No. 1,' 'Adams No. 2,' 'York,' and 'Johns': produce an abundance of large drupes, and are cultivars most used if you're cooking the fruit
Pruning
This shrub does tend to form a lot of suckers. This can be a beneficial characteristic if you're trying to populate a native garden inexpensively, for instance, but it can be annoying otherwise. It may even become invasive in some areas. Your local garden center should know if this is the case.
You can make the shrubs into a standard (small tree) form by choosing and developing a central leader. Otherwise, it is usually a multi-trunked shrub.
Plan on removing dead, damaged and diseased canes (flexible branches) at the start of spring. You should also remove canes that are over three years old since younger ones produce better and this pruning will encourage new growth. Pruning can also be used to make a shrub's appearance neater, as it can become a bit lanky.
Propagating American Elderberries
Elderberry can be propagated by taking cuttings and rooting them. Use rooting hormone, to protect them from bacteria and fungus. Keep cuttings in a jar filled with clean water, for at least two months. Refill the water as needed, mist occasionally. Once strong roots have grown, you can plant them directly into your garden, in a well-draining area with partial shade.
Elderberry can be grown from seeds but it's a tricky process. Seeds can take a couple of years to germinate, requiring something called stratification. Guidance for soaking and the need to refrigerate seeds varies, but according to the University of California, seeds can be collected from berries that have been mashed and covered in cold water for 24 hours. Skim off pulp and floating seeds, drain, and then strain and wash seeds left at the bottom of the soaking container. Dry seeds. To stratify, spread seeds on moist paper towels, and place in plastic storage bags. Refrigerate, Keep seeds moist for the 60-90 day period it takes to germinate, and check on them periodically to see if this has happened. Once germinated, plant immediately.
Potting and Repotting American Elderberries
Elderberries have shallow roots, making them perfect for container planting. It's best to pot in spring, in an oversized pot, at least 2 feet wide and 20 inches deep. Make sure it has drainage holes (or create your own using a drill). Use a rich potting soil, with a ph of 5.5 to 6.5. Mulch the surface with compost and water frequently so they never dry out.
Common Pests/Diseases
Potential problems include aphids, birds, cecropia moth caterpillars (Hyalophora cecropia), currant borers, elder shoot borer (Achatodes zeae), Eriophyid mites, fall webworms, grape mealybugs, potato flea beetles, rose chafers, San Jose scales, sap beetles, sawfly larvae, spider mites, and thrips. For all pests, remove infested shoots and canes—and destroy all prunings—and use insecticidal soap if needed.
You may see cankers, dieback, leaf spots, powdery mildew, root rots, thread blight, tomato ringspot virus and Verticillium wilt on this elderberry species. Most diseases, other than tomato ringspot virus, can be remedied by reducing overhead watering, and pruning away infected branches.
Because elderberries have shallow roots, weeds can be a problem—when weeds are abundant, they can compete with the elderberry for water and nutrients. Manually remove weeds when you see them or use mulch, like hay or bark chips, as a natural weed control.
The botanical name associated with this shrub is Sambucus canadensis and it is in the Adoxaceae family or Caprofoliaceae, depending on the botanist. Some consider this to be a subspecies of the common elderberry and write the name as Sambucus nigra subsp. canadensis. It should be planted in the spring.
Botanical Name Sambucus canadensis
Common Name American Elderberry
Plant Type Shrub
Mature Size 10–15 feet
Sun Exposure Full sun to partial shade
Soil Type Rich, well-draining, loamy
Soil pH Acidic
Bloom Time Spring
Flower Color White
Hardiness Zones 3–10
Native Area North America
Toxicity Toxic to people and pets; fruit is non-toxic to people once cooked
American Elderberry Care
American elderberry shrubs are prolific in the wild, so it's no surprise that when planted in a garden, they're easy to maintain and tolerate a wide variety of growing conditions. Once established, elderberry shrubs will be with you for the long haul.
American elderberry shrubs are 10 to 15 feet tall and wide, growing into a rounded shape. They're an excellent addition to a wildlife garden since birds love to eat the fruit. Its flowers will also attract butterflies. If you have a stream or pond on your property, elderberries can provide erosion control when planted on the banks.
Although they will usually thrive even when neglected, if you're growing elderberry shrubs for fruit, you can maximize your harvest by following the guidelines outlined below.
Light
Elderberry shrubs need full sun exposure to partial shade.
Soil
The American elderberry is a good choice if you have a location that tends to be moist or wet. That said, the site should also drain well to discourage root rot. Elderberry shrubs are able to handle a pH range from acidic to alkaline, but do best in slightly acidic soil.
Water
Elderberries need a lot of water, but as long as the roots have had a chance to anchor themselves, the shrub can handle periods of drought. The soil around an elderberry shrub should be moist, but not waterlogged.
Temperature and Humidity
American elderberry shrubs' easygoing nature extends to temperature and humidity as well. While elderberries thrive in zones 3–11, they're deciduous through zone 8, and evergreen in zones 9–11, where there is no frost.
Fertilizer
Before planting American elderberry shrubs, turn the soil with compost. Then, fertilize annually with additional compost in the springtime.
American Elderberry Varieties
'Aurea' cultivar': a shrub with yellow leaves, and red fruit instead of black
'Variegata': for foliage with variegation
'Laciniata': offers lacy dissected leaves
'Adams No. 1,' 'Adams No. 2,' 'York,' and 'Johns': produce an abundance of large drupes, and are cultivars most used if you're cooking the fruit
Pruning
This shrub does tend to form a lot of suckers. This can be a beneficial characteristic if you're trying to populate a native garden inexpensively, for instance, but it can be annoying otherwise. It may even become invasive in some areas. Your local garden center should know if this is the case.
You can make the shrubs into a standard (small tree) form by choosing and developing a central leader. Otherwise, it is usually a multi-trunked shrub.
Plan on removing dead, damaged and diseased canes (flexible branches) at the start of spring. You should also remove canes that are over three years old since younger ones produce better and this pruning will encourage new growth. Pruning can also be used to make a shrub's appearance neater, as it can become a bit lanky.
Propagating American Elderberries
Elderberry can be propagated by taking cuttings and rooting them. Use rooting hormone, to protect them from bacteria and fungus. Keep cuttings in a jar filled with clean water, for at least two months. Refill the water as needed, mist occasionally. Once strong roots have grown, you can plant them directly into your garden, in a well-draining area with partial shade.
Elderberry can be grown from seeds but it's a tricky process. Seeds can take a couple of years to germinate, requiring something called stratification. Guidance for soaking and the need to refrigerate seeds varies, but according to the University of California, seeds can be collected from berries that have been mashed and covered in cold water for 24 hours. Skim off pulp and floating seeds, drain, and then strain and wash seeds left at the bottom of the soaking container. Dry seeds. To stratify, spread seeds on moist paper towels, and place in plastic storage bags. Refrigerate, Keep seeds moist for the 60-90 day period it takes to germinate, and check on them periodically to see if this has happened. Once germinated, plant immediately.
Potting and Repotting American Elderberries
Elderberries have shallow roots, making them perfect for container planting. It's best to pot in spring, in an oversized pot, at least 2 feet wide and 20 inches deep. Make sure it has drainage holes (or create your own using a drill). Use a rich potting soil, with a ph of 5.5 to 6.5. Mulch the surface with compost and water frequently so they never dry out.
Common Pests/Diseases
Potential problems include aphids, birds, cecropia moth caterpillars (Hyalophora cecropia), currant borers, elder shoot borer (Achatodes zeae), Eriophyid mites, fall webworms, grape mealybugs, potato flea beetles, rose chafers, San Jose scales, sap beetles, sawfly larvae, spider mites, and thrips. For all pests, remove infested shoots and canes—and destroy all prunings—and use insecticidal soap if needed.
You may see cankers, dieback, leaf spots, powdery mildew, root rots, thread blight, tomato ringspot virus and Verticillium wilt on this elderberry species. Most diseases, other than tomato ringspot virus, can be remedied by reducing overhead watering, and pruning away infected branches.
Because elderberries have shallow roots, weeds can be a problem—when weeds are abundant, they can compete with the elderberry for water and nutrients. Manually remove weeds when you see them or use mulch, like hay or bark chips, as a natural weed control.
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文章
Miss Chen
2021年07月19日
Sweet alyssum is a colorful carpet of tiny flowers that can be used to blanket your garden or landscape. Native to Europe, the low-growing foliage grows quickly, covering the ground with tiny cross-shaped, four-petal flowers within two months of being planted. Its gray-green leaves are slightly hairy, narrow, and lance-shaped.
Easy to grow from plant or seed, sweet alyssum is a cool-season flower that can be set out in early spring once all danger of frost has passed (in frost-free climates, sweet alyssum can also be grown throughout the fall and winter). Most varieties will fade in the heat but bloom again in the fall.
Botanical Name Lobularia maritima
Common Names Sweet alyssum, alyssum, carpet flower
Plant Type Herbaceous perennial
Mature Size 3–9 in. tall, 6–12 in. wide
Sun Exposure Full sun, partial shade
Soil Type Moist but well-drained
Soil pH Neutral to acidic
Bloom Time Spring, Fall
Flower Color White, pink, purple
Hardiness Zones 5–9 (USDA)
Native Areas Europe
Toxicity Non-toxic
Sweet Alyssum Care
Sweet alyssum is nearly unmatched when it comes to ease of care, and is hardy to both heat and drought. The flowers have a lively, honey-like fragrance and are actually members of the mustard family—they will self-sow and can provide bright color year-after-year, especially in milder climates. Sweet alyssum is generally problem-free, although aphids can become a pest, especially when the plants are under stress.
As sweet alyssum plants spread, they create a living mulch under taller plants. You can use sweet alyssum along edges, in the garden, or to fill nooks and crannies on walkways and walls. The tight, free-flowering plants are also great in hanging baskets and containers.
Light
Sweet alyssum loves full sun, but it does not like prolonged dry periods. If your region is especially hot and dry, a slightly shaded area will work best for this plant, though you should keep in mind that it can get stem rot or leaf blight if too much shade prevents the leaves and soil from completely drying out. Generally, you should aim to plant your sweet alyssum somewhere where it can get six to eight hours of sunlight a day.
Soil
Sweet alyssum plants prefer soils that are of medium moisture and well-draining. They're tolerant of many different planting locations and can even be found on sandy beaches and dunes—though they can also grow on cultivated fields, walls, slopes, and even in cracks in sidewalks or walls. The plants will do poorly in boggy soil or where drainage is a particular problem.
Water
Provide your sweet alyssum plants with at least an inch of water every week, watering them more frequently during hot or dry spells. Make sure the water drains well, otherwise the plant is susceptible to rot. If you plant your sweet alyssum atop stone (or anywhere that dries out quickly), you will need to provide extra water—the same holds true of hot or dry weather.
Temperature and Humidity
In temperate weather, gardeners may be able to grow sweet alyssum all year long, though the actual plants themselves are short-lived. Typically, they self-seed so much that while it seems as though the same plants are surviving all year long, the reality is that new seedlings are filling in. Sweet alyssum plants repeat bloom, although many varieties tend to stop flowering in heat, only to often pick back up again in the fall. In areas of high humidity, you should compensate by reducing the amount of water given to plants.
Fertilizer
Typically, in-ground sweet alyssum plants do not need any fertilizer unless your soil is poor. Plants grown in containers will need monthly feedings using a water-soluble fertilizer for the container plants.
Sweet Alyssum Varieties
There are several common varieties of sweet alyssum:
'Easter Bonnet': An early blooming variety, typically found in lavender or white
'New Carpet of Snow': A low-growing variety, covered in petite white flowers
'Pastel Carpet': A varietal whose blooms blend pink, lavender, and cream
'Snow Crystals': A tidy, mounding variety with translucent white flowers
How to Grow Sweet Alyssum From Seed
You can start sweet alyssum from seed or plant, both of which are widely available at nurseries (though some new cultivars are not available as seeds). To start from seed, simply scatter the seeds atop the soil and press them down lightly so they make good contact with the dirt but are still exposed to light. Keep the soil moist until germination, then water whenever the soil feels dry.
You can direct seed outdoors once the soil feels warm to the touch or start alyssum seed indoors about eight weeks before your last frost date (do not transplant until after all danger of frost). Alyssum is somewhat frost-tolerant once established, but tender transplants are not hardy enough for frost.
Pruning
Deadheading sweet alyssum will keep the plants flowering—they will set new buds quickly. If you have a large drift of plants, shearing them by one-third would be an easier option than deadheading. Some varieties will readily re-seed themselves, but the plants tend to revert to the somewhat gangly species, so pruning will aid in that.
Easy to grow from plant or seed, sweet alyssum is a cool-season flower that can be set out in early spring once all danger of frost has passed (in frost-free climates, sweet alyssum can also be grown throughout the fall and winter). Most varieties will fade in the heat but bloom again in the fall.
Botanical Name Lobularia maritima
Common Names Sweet alyssum, alyssum, carpet flower
Plant Type Herbaceous perennial
Mature Size 3–9 in. tall, 6–12 in. wide
Sun Exposure Full sun, partial shade
Soil Type Moist but well-drained
Soil pH Neutral to acidic
Bloom Time Spring, Fall
Flower Color White, pink, purple
Hardiness Zones 5–9 (USDA)
Native Areas Europe
Toxicity Non-toxic
Sweet Alyssum Care
Sweet alyssum is nearly unmatched when it comes to ease of care, and is hardy to both heat and drought. The flowers have a lively, honey-like fragrance and are actually members of the mustard family—they will self-sow and can provide bright color year-after-year, especially in milder climates. Sweet alyssum is generally problem-free, although aphids can become a pest, especially when the plants are under stress.
As sweet alyssum plants spread, they create a living mulch under taller plants. You can use sweet alyssum along edges, in the garden, or to fill nooks and crannies on walkways and walls. The tight, free-flowering plants are also great in hanging baskets and containers.
Light
Sweet alyssum loves full sun, but it does not like prolonged dry periods. If your region is especially hot and dry, a slightly shaded area will work best for this plant, though you should keep in mind that it can get stem rot or leaf blight if too much shade prevents the leaves and soil from completely drying out. Generally, you should aim to plant your sweet alyssum somewhere where it can get six to eight hours of sunlight a day.
Soil
Sweet alyssum plants prefer soils that are of medium moisture and well-draining. They're tolerant of many different planting locations and can even be found on sandy beaches and dunes—though they can also grow on cultivated fields, walls, slopes, and even in cracks in sidewalks or walls. The plants will do poorly in boggy soil or where drainage is a particular problem.
Water
Provide your sweet alyssum plants with at least an inch of water every week, watering them more frequently during hot or dry spells. Make sure the water drains well, otherwise the plant is susceptible to rot. If you plant your sweet alyssum atop stone (or anywhere that dries out quickly), you will need to provide extra water—the same holds true of hot or dry weather.
Temperature and Humidity
In temperate weather, gardeners may be able to grow sweet alyssum all year long, though the actual plants themselves are short-lived. Typically, they self-seed so much that while it seems as though the same plants are surviving all year long, the reality is that new seedlings are filling in. Sweet alyssum plants repeat bloom, although many varieties tend to stop flowering in heat, only to often pick back up again in the fall. In areas of high humidity, you should compensate by reducing the amount of water given to plants.
Fertilizer
Typically, in-ground sweet alyssum plants do not need any fertilizer unless your soil is poor. Plants grown in containers will need monthly feedings using a water-soluble fertilizer for the container plants.
Sweet Alyssum Varieties
There are several common varieties of sweet alyssum:
'Easter Bonnet': An early blooming variety, typically found in lavender or white
'New Carpet of Snow': A low-growing variety, covered in petite white flowers
'Pastel Carpet': A varietal whose blooms blend pink, lavender, and cream
'Snow Crystals': A tidy, mounding variety with translucent white flowers
How to Grow Sweet Alyssum From Seed
You can start sweet alyssum from seed or plant, both of which are widely available at nurseries (though some new cultivars are not available as seeds). To start from seed, simply scatter the seeds atop the soil and press them down lightly so they make good contact with the dirt but are still exposed to light. Keep the soil moist until germination, then water whenever the soil feels dry.
You can direct seed outdoors once the soil feels warm to the touch or start alyssum seed indoors about eight weeks before your last frost date (do not transplant until after all danger of frost). Alyssum is somewhat frost-tolerant once established, but tender transplants are not hardy enough for frost.
Pruning
Deadheading sweet alyssum will keep the plants flowering—they will set new buds quickly. If you have a large drift of plants, shearing them by one-third would be an easier option than deadheading. Some varieties will readily re-seed themselves, but the plants tend to revert to the somewhat gangly species, so pruning will aid in that.
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文章
Miss Chen
2021年07月11日
Bugleweed (Ajuga reptans), also called common bugleweed, is a fast-growing herbaceous perennial ground cover (the species name reptans means "creeping"). Although it produces beautiful flower spikes and is available in several different cultivars that work well in landscaping, it can also make quite a nuisance of itself through its aggressive spreading via underground runners (called stolens). However, there are a few situations in which its good qualities will be enough reason for some gardeners to grow it.
Bugleweed excels at filling in large, shady areas where lawns are difficult to grow, and it can work well on banks or slopes or planted around trees and shrubs. It forms a dense mat that will choke out weeds, and it is known to be fairly deer-resistant. It is so tough that it can even grow under black walnut trees (Juglans nigra), which produces a chemical that discourages most plants. However, avoid planting bugleweed near lawn areas because it can quickly spread into turf grass.
Bugleweed has shiny, dark green leaves and produces blue, violet, or purple flower spikes in mid- to late-spring that can reach 8 to 10 inches tall, although the flower spikes on some cultivars are shorter. Several cultivars offer variegated foliage colors and patterns.
Botanical Name Ajuga reptans
Common Name Bugleweed, common bugleweed, ajuga, carpet bugle, blue bugle, carpetweed, carpenter's herb
Plant Type Herbaceous perennial
Mature Size 6 to 9 inches tall and 6 to 12 inches wide
Sun Exposure Full sun to part shade
Soil Type Medium-moisture, well-drained
Soil pH 3.7 to 6.5
Bloom Time May to June
Flower Color Blue, violet
Hardiness Zones 3 to 10
Native Area Europe, northern Africa, southwestern Asia
How to Grow Bugleweed
Plant bugleweed in an area where air circulation is good, spacing the plants about 1 foot apart. Cut off the flower spikes in late summer after the flowers have faded. To shear back a large area of bugleweed, use a lawnmower set to a high blade height. To keep the plant under control, rigorously prune runners twice a year. Be sure to remove any runners escaping the desired planting area.
If the planting area becomes crowded, thin out the plants in the fall by digging up the entire clump and replanting half of the roots. Water thoroughly after replanting.
Because bugleweed spreads aggressively via runners, that fact should alert you to its potential to be invasive. To control it in your planting beds, you'll have to be faithful about pulling it out from where it doesn't belong. If you're not vigilant about controlling it, it will soon gain a toehold and become a pest.
Light
Bugleweed does well in full sun to part shade locations. Foliage color is most vibrant when the plant receives at least three to four hours of sunlight daily.
Soil
Bugleweed prefers medium moisture, well-drained soils with a good amount of organic matter. It will tolerate moderately dry soil. In the South, watch out for crown rot, also called "Southern blight," which is caused by a fungus (Sclerotium rolfsii).1 You can help prevent crown rot by assuring the soil drains well.
Water
Water bugleweed weekly while plants are getting established, then once every two to three weeks when they're established. Water whenever the top 1 to 2 inches of soil become dry.
Temperature and Humidity
Bugleweed does well in a wide range of temperatures, but in very hot, humid areas, it requires good air circulation to prevent crown rot.
Fertilizer
Feeding is rarely necessary unless the plant is growing in poor soil. When it is needed, apply an all-purpose granular fertilizer. Or, use a water-soluble fertilizer at a rate of 1 tablespoon per 1 gallon of water. Morning feeding is best, and make sure to rinse off any fertilizer granules from the leaves.
Propagating Bugleweed
Ajuga is one of the easiest plants to propagate. It spreads by underground runners that form clumps surrounding the parent plant. At the point where these clumps begin to get crowded, you can dig them up and transplant them. This is best done in spring or fall when there is no chance of frost.
Dig up the entire mother plant and surrounding clumps, then separate them by hand or with a knife. Discard brown or withered clumps, and plant the individual plants in new locations.
Varieties of Bugleweed
A. reptans 'Atropurpureum' has bronze-purple foliage.
A. reptans 'Chocolate Chip' has darker leaves than the species plant, including a hint of chocolate brown.
A. reptans 'Burgundy Glow' has burgundy tri-colored variegated foliage (white, pink, and green).
A. reptans 'Dixie Chip' is another variety with tri-color variegated foliage (creamy-white, deep-rose, and green) and produces a mat 2 to 4 inches tall.
A. reptans 'Black Scallop' has perhaps the darkest foliage of all cultivars with almost-black, scalloped leaves and deep blue flower spikes. It produces a mat 3 to 6 inches tall. The darkest foliage color is achieved when plants are located in full sun.
Growing From Seed
Start bugleweed seed indoors in pots filled with a seed-starter mix. Cover the seeds with a thin layer of compost; they will sprout within a month. When the seedlings are viable, pot them up into larger containers. Once robust, transplant the seedlings into the garden.
Bugleweed excels at filling in large, shady areas where lawns are difficult to grow, and it can work well on banks or slopes or planted around trees and shrubs. It forms a dense mat that will choke out weeds, and it is known to be fairly deer-resistant. It is so tough that it can even grow under black walnut trees (Juglans nigra), which produces a chemical that discourages most plants. However, avoid planting bugleweed near lawn areas because it can quickly spread into turf grass.
Bugleweed has shiny, dark green leaves and produces blue, violet, or purple flower spikes in mid- to late-spring that can reach 8 to 10 inches tall, although the flower spikes on some cultivars are shorter. Several cultivars offer variegated foliage colors and patterns.
Botanical Name Ajuga reptans
Common Name Bugleweed, common bugleweed, ajuga, carpet bugle, blue bugle, carpetweed, carpenter's herb
Plant Type Herbaceous perennial
Mature Size 6 to 9 inches tall and 6 to 12 inches wide
Sun Exposure Full sun to part shade
Soil Type Medium-moisture, well-drained
Soil pH 3.7 to 6.5
Bloom Time May to June
Flower Color Blue, violet
Hardiness Zones 3 to 10
Native Area Europe, northern Africa, southwestern Asia
How to Grow Bugleweed
Plant bugleweed in an area where air circulation is good, spacing the plants about 1 foot apart. Cut off the flower spikes in late summer after the flowers have faded. To shear back a large area of bugleweed, use a lawnmower set to a high blade height. To keep the plant under control, rigorously prune runners twice a year. Be sure to remove any runners escaping the desired planting area.
If the planting area becomes crowded, thin out the plants in the fall by digging up the entire clump and replanting half of the roots. Water thoroughly after replanting.
Because bugleweed spreads aggressively via runners, that fact should alert you to its potential to be invasive. To control it in your planting beds, you'll have to be faithful about pulling it out from where it doesn't belong. If you're not vigilant about controlling it, it will soon gain a toehold and become a pest.
Light
Bugleweed does well in full sun to part shade locations. Foliage color is most vibrant when the plant receives at least three to four hours of sunlight daily.
Soil
Bugleweed prefers medium moisture, well-drained soils with a good amount of organic matter. It will tolerate moderately dry soil. In the South, watch out for crown rot, also called "Southern blight," which is caused by a fungus (Sclerotium rolfsii).1 You can help prevent crown rot by assuring the soil drains well.
Water
Water bugleweed weekly while plants are getting established, then once every two to three weeks when they're established. Water whenever the top 1 to 2 inches of soil become dry.
Temperature and Humidity
Bugleweed does well in a wide range of temperatures, but in very hot, humid areas, it requires good air circulation to prevent crown rot.
Fertilizer
Feeding is rarely necessary unless the plant is growing in poor soil. When it is needed, apply an all-purpose granular fertilizer. Or, use a water-soluble fertilizer at a rate of 1 tablespoon per 1 gallon of water. Morning feeding is best, and make sure to rinse off any fertilizer granules from the leaves.
Propagating Bugleweed
Ajuga is one of the easiest plants to propagate. It spreads by underground runners that form clumps surrounding the parent plant. At the point where these clumps begin to get crowded, you can dig them up and transplant them. This is best done in spring or fall when there is no chance of frost.
Dig up the entire mother plant and surrounding clumps, then separate them by hand or with a knife. Discard brown or withered clumps, and plant the individual plants in new locations.
Varieties of Bugleweed
A. reptans 'Atropurpureum' has bronze-purple foliage.
A. reptans 'Chocolate Chip' has darker leaves than the species plant, including a hint of chocolate brown.
A. reptans 'Burgundy Glow' has burgundy tri-colored variegated foliage (white, pink, and green).
A. reptans 'Dixie Chip' is another variety with tri-color variegated foliage (creamy-white, deep-rose, and green) and produces a mat 2 to 4 inches tall.
A. reptans 'Black Scallop' has perhaps the darkest foliage of all cultivars with almost-black, scalloped leaves and deep blue flower spikes. It produces a mat 3 to 6 inches tall. The darkest foliage color is achieved when plants are located in full sun.
Growing From Seed
Start bugleweed seed indoors in pots filled with a seed-starter mix. Cover the seeds with a thin layer of compost; they will sprout within a month. When the seedlings are viable, pot them up into larger containers. Once robust, transplant the seedlings into the garden.
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文章
Miss Chen
2021年06月19日
Aeonium is a genus including about 35 succulent plant species with unusually glossy, waxy leaves arranged in rosettes. The species range from the low-growing A. tabuliforme and A. smithii, just a few inches across, to large species several feet across, such as A. arboreum, A. valverdense, and A. holochrysum. The leaves and structure of the plant are so perfect that these species are sometimes mistaken for artificial plants.
The leaves of Aeoniums are typically rounded and arranged in rosettes around center hubs at the end of stems. The foliage can be a solid color, or variegated in white, yellow, red, and green. Small, star-like flowers grow in clusters from the center of the rosettes, but they are not particularly showy. The fleshy leaves make these plants quite similar to several other succulent plants, most noticeably Echeveria and Sempervivum—the popular hens and chicks.
Aeoniums can be planted in the garden at any time. These are rather slow-growing plants, and it may take as much as five years before they bloom.
Latin Name Aeonium spp.
Common Names Aeonium
Plant Type Perennial succulent
Mature Size 2–60 inches (depending on species and variety)
Sun Exposure Full sun to part shade
Soil Type Sandy loam
Soil pH 5.6–6.0 (slightly acidic)
Bloom Time Late winter or spring
Flower Color Pink (flowering is rare, occurring only in mature plants)
Hardiness Zones 9–11(USDA); often grown as potted plants brought indoors for winter
Native Area Canary Islands, Africa
Toxicity Non-toxic
Aeonium Care
In warmer climates, Aeoniums can be grown as in the ground as perennials, but it is also common to grow them as potted plants on decks or patios. In colder regions, they should be grown in containers and taken inside before frost. When grown in the garden, Aeoniums command the most attention when grouped in masses. Tall varieties can look like bonsai when they get shrubby; you can trim them if they get too leggy. The cuttings will readily root and make new plants, helping you fill out your planting area.
If you have the proper growing conditions, Aeoniums require very little pampering. Otherwise, your major task will be moving them from hot sun to shade and back again, watering, and moving them indoors when the temperature drops too low.
Aeoniums have shallow root systems since they store their water in their leaves and stems. Unlike other succulents, which prefer dry soil, Aeoniums prefer soil that is moist but not wet. They can produce roots along their stems, which you may notice if the plant gets pot bound or the stems fall and touch the soil. Make sure these roots do not dry out. The stem roots will quickly turn the fallen pieces into new plants. Leggy branches do tend to fall over and snap off from the weight of the rosettes. If this happens, you can re-plant the broken stem.
Keep an eye out for pests on Aeoniums. Slugs can do some damage, and aphids, mealybugs, and ants also enjoy Aeoniums. Treat the plant with a spray of water or mild insecticidal soap to remove these pests.
Light
As with most succulents, Aeonium plants grow best in full sun to part shade. In hot summers and desert conditions, light shade may be necessary. Indoors, give them bright indirect light.
Soil
A sandy loam or regular potting mix amended with perlite is better than a mix specifically for succulents and cacti since Aeoniums need some moisture. If grown in garden beds with dense soil, it may be necessary to amend with peat moss to improve soil porosity.
Water
In the winter, water whenever the top inch of soil has dried out. Test by poking your finger down into the soil an inch or two. These plants do like more moisture than many other succulents, but too much moisture or allowing them to sit in wet soil will cause root rot.
Temperature and Humidity
These plants prefer a Mediterranean climate—not too hot, not too cold, not too dry. Most Aeonium varieties are only hardy in USDA Zones 9 to 11. Growing Aeoniums in moist shade will keep them growing in high heat, but their true growth season is winter to spring, when temperatures are cool (65 to 75 degrees Fahrenheit) and damp. They may go dormant in summer and do not require excessive watering, except in excessively dry conditions. In extreme heat, their leaves will curl to prevent excessive water loss.
Fertilizer
Feed during the growing season with a half-strength balanced fertilizer every month or so. Do not feed while dormant.
Aeonium Varieties
Aeonium arboreum: This widely available plant has bright green rosettes on a branching stem. It has a shrubby form and can grow as tall as 6 feet in the garden, or 3 feet in containers.
Aeonium arboreum 'Atropurpureum': This 3- to 5-foot tall cultivar has maroon leaves if grown in bright light.
Aeonium arboreum 'Zwartkop': This cultivar has very dark, almost black leaves. It, too, is a fairly large plant.
Aeonium 'Garnet': A hybrid cross of A. 'Zwarkop' and A. tabuliforme, this variety's leaves are green toward the middle and tipped with dark red.
Aeonium davidbramwelli 'Sunburst': This variety is a shorter, 1- to 2-foot tall plant but has rosettes up to 1 foot across with pale yellow, white and green stripes, and pink tips.
Aeonium haworthii 'Tricolor' or 'Kiwi': An easy growing 2- to 3-foot plant, it has 4-inch flowers that have pale yellow centers when young, maturing to red and green.
Potting and Repotting
Needing so little soil, Aeoniums are great for growing in containers, where you can get a closer look at their unique features and have better control over their growing conditions. In high humidity or rainy areas, you may not need to water them at all. Choose a container with a drainage hole to avoid standing water and root rot. To help maintain the necessary moisture levels, use a regular potting mix rather than a fast-draining succulent/cactus mix.
If you are growing Aeoniums in containers, re-pot every 2 to 3 years with fresh potting soil.
Propagating Aeoniums
Like many succulents, Aeoniums are very easy to propagate from cuttings. Even stem pieces that fall off the plant may readily take root in the surrounding soil.
Cut off a stem piece containing a leaf rosette. Place the cutting in shade and allow the cut end to heal for about three days.
Fill a small pot with drainage holes with a mixture of half regular potting soil and half cactus/succulent potting mix. Place the severed end of the cutting into the potting mix, just deep enough to hold it upright. Place the pot in bright indirect light and water it lightly once each week.
Once the plant has developed strong roots, allow the top 2 inches of soil to dry out before watering. Re-pot into a larger container as needed.
Most Aeoniums are monocarpic, meaning that the mother plant dies after flowering. However, if the plant has produced side shoots, those side shoots will live on. If not, the entire plant will die off. That's why it is nice to start new plants from cuttings periodically. You can also start new plants from the seed.
The leaves of Aeoniums are typically rounded and arranged in rosettes around center hubs at the end of stems. The foliage can be a solid color, or variegated in white, yellow, red, and green. Small, star-like flowers grow in clusters from the center of the rosettes, but they are not particularly showy. The fleshy leaves make these plants quite similar to several other succulent plants, most noticeably Echeveria and Sempervivum—the popular hens and chicks.
Aeoniums can be planted in the garden at any time. These are rather slow-growing plants, and it may take as much as five years before they bloom.
Latin Name Aeonium spp.
Common Names Aeonium
Plant Type Perennial succulent
Mature Size 2–60 inches (depending on species and variety)
Sun Exposure Full sun to part shade
Soil Type Sandy loam
Soil pH 5.6–6.0 (slightly acidic)
Bloom Time Late winter or spring
Flower Color Pink (flowering is rare, occurring only in mature plants)
Hardiness Zones 9–11(USDA); often grown as potted plants brought indoors for winter
Native Area Canary Islands, Africa
Toxicity Non-toxic
Aeonium Care
In warmer climates, Aeoniums can be grown as in the ground as perennials, but it is also common to grow them as potted plants on decks or patios. In colder regions, they should be grown in containers and taken inside before frost. When grown in the garden, Aeoniums command the most attention when grouped in masses. Tall varieties can look like bonsai when they get shrubby; you can trim them if they get too leggy. The cuttings will readily root and make new plants, helping you fill out your planting area.
If you have the proper growing conditions, Aeoniums require very little pampering. Otherwise, your major task will be moving them from hot sun to shade and back again, watering, and moving them indoors when the temperature drops too low.
Aeoniums have shallow root systems since they store their water in their leaves and stems. Unlike other succulents, which prefer dry soil, Aeoniums prefer soil that is moist but not wet. They can produce roots along their stems, which you may notice if the plant gets pot bound or the stems fall and touch the soil. Make sure these roots do not dry out. The stem roots will quickly turn the fallen pieces into new plants. Leggy branches do tend to fall over and snap off from the weight of the rosettes. If this happens, you can re-plant the broken stem.
Keep an eye out for pests on Aeoniums. Slugs can do some damage, and aphids, mealybugs, and ants also enjoy Aeoniums. Treat the plant with a spray of water or mild insecticidal soap to remove these pests.
Light
As with most succulents, Aeonium plants grow best in full sun to part shade. In hot summers and desert conditions, light shade may be necessary. Indoors, give them bright indirect light.
Soil
A sandy loam or regular potting mix amended with perlite is better than a mix specifically for succulents and cacti since Aeoniums need some moisture. If grown in garden beds with dense soil, it may be necessary to amend with peat moss to improve soil porosity.
Water
In the winter, water whenever the top inch of soil has dried out. Test by poking your finger down into the soil an inch or two. These plants do like more moisture than many other succulents, but too much moisture or allowing them to sit in wet soil will cause root rot.
Temperature and Humidity
These plants prefer a Mediterranean climate—not too hot, not too cold, not too dry. Most Aeonium varieties are only hardy in USDA Zones 9 to 11. Growing Aeoniums in moist shade will keep them growing in high heat, but their true growth season is winter to spring, when temperatures are cool (65 to 75 degrees Fahrenheit) and damp. They may go dormant in summer and do not require excessive watering, except in excessively dry conditions. In extreme heat, their leaves will curl to prevent excessive water loss.
Fertilizer
Feed during the growing season with a half-strength balanced fertilizer every month or so. Do not feed while dormant.
Aeonium Varieties
Aeonium arboreum: This widely available plant has bright green rosettes on a branching stem. It has a shrubby form and can grow as tall as 6 feet in the garden, or 3 feet in containers.
Aeonium arboreum 'Atropurpureum': This 3- to 5-foot tall cultivar has maroon leaves if grown in bright light.
Aeonium arboreum 'Zwartkop': This cultivar has very dark, almost black leaves. It, too, is a fairly large plant.
Aeonium 'Garnet': A hybrid cross of A. 'Zwarkop' and A. tabuliforme, this variety's leaves are green toward the middle and tipped with dark red.
Aeonium davidbramwelli 'Sunburst': This variety is a shorter, 1- to 2-foot tall plant but has rosettes up to 1 foot across with pale yellow, white and green stripes, and pink tips.
Aeonium haworthii 'Tricolor' or 'Kiwi': An easy growing 2- to 3-foot plant, it has 4-inch flowers that have pale yellow centers when young, maturing to red and green.
Potting and Repotting
Needing so little soil, Aeoniums are great for growing in containers, where you can get a closer look at their unique features and have better control over their growing conditions. In high humidity or rainy areas, you may not need to water them at all. Choose a container with a drainage hole to avoid standing water and root rot. To help maintain the necessary moisture levels, use a regular potting mix rather than a fast-draining succulent/cactus mix.
If you are growing Aeoniums in containers, re-pot every 2 to 3 years with fresh potting soil.
Propagating Aeoniums
Like many succulents, Aeoniums are very easy to propagate from cuttings. Even stem pieces that fall off the plant may readily take root in the surrounding soil.
Cut off a stem piece containing a leaf rosette. Place the cutting in shade and allow the cut end to heal for about three days.
Fill a small pot with drainage holes with a mixture of half regular potting soil and half cactus/succulent potting mix. Place the severed end of the cutting into the potting mix, just deep enough to hold it upright. Place the pot in bright indirect light and water it lightly once each week.
Once the plant has developed strong roots, allow the top 2 inches of soil to dry out before watering. Re-pot into a larger container as needed.
Most Aeoniums are monocarpic, meaning that the mother plant dies after flowering. However, if the plant has produced side shoots, those side shoots will live on. If not, the entire plant will die off. That's why it is nice to start new plants from cuttings periodically. You can also start new plants from the seed.
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