文章
Miss Chen
2021年06月15日
Selecting the Cuttings
SELECT THE BEST POSSIBLE STOCK PLANTS
The best stock plants produce the best cuttings used for propagation. During each growing cycle, growers must select plants that exhibit the best growth characteristics; these are selected as ‘stock plants’. ‘Off-shore’ cuttings are from selected and maintained stock plants. The same selection process can be done at one’s own growing facility.
JUVENILE CUTTINGS
Cuttings taken from the newer juvenile parts of many plants root better than older mature parts. Shoots at the tops of the plant are physiologically older (more mature) than the shoots at the bottom of the plant (more juvenile). The top shoots have the characteristics of the more mature parts of the plant from which they originate. Juvenile cuttings require lower plant rooting hormone rates compared to the ‘older’ cuttings.
To maintain juvenality, annual and perennial cuttings should be taken from young stock plants. These stock plants, often a half year old, are used to produce the next generation stock plants from current cuttings. For woody plants ‘hedging’ can be done.
THE 'BEST' TIME TO TAKE CUTTINGS
Some plants, especially those which go dormant, have different rooting ability at different times of the year. Timing of a few weeks in taking of cuttings may have success or failure. After maturing to a certain age, often years, cuttings taken from certain plants may not be able to produce roots.
TYPICAL TIMING TO TAKE CUTTINGS
• Herbaceous cuttings from greenhouse crops, annual and tropical plants: anytime.
• Deciduous and evergreen plant cuttings: early summer through early fall.
• Dormant hardwood cuttings: fall or winter.
PREPARATION AND CARE OF CUTTINGS
Before taking cuttings, stock plants must be provided with good light and fertilization. This will boost stored carbohydrates used to feed the newly formed roots.
• Herbaceous plant cuttings should be treated and stuck soon after being taken. To prevent heat damage, in hot climates cuttings are put in coolers soon after being cut. Perennial and annual cutting suppliers may have offshore stock plant nurseries. When shipped, cuttings from these nurseries are kept chilled during transit using special cartons that protect the cuttings from temperature variation. The cuttings are packed in plastic bags to assure continued hydration. Shipping time is kept short, assuring prompt arrival at the rooting facility. Certain plants do not ship well; to assure propagation success, those stock plants should be grown near the rooting faculty.
• Winter woody cuttings taken in the fall can be treated with rooting hormones, kept in plastic, stored in cold storage, then planted-out in the spring.
• Growers usually take plant shoot cuttings from plant growth of the current growing season. Generally, thin cuttings will root more easily than thick cuttings. No one cutting type is useful to propagate all plants.
TYPES OF CUTTINGS
STEM CUTTINGS
‘Stem cuttings’ are the out-growing stems, mature sprouts or tip cuttings. Growers may take many types of stem cuttings.
• SOFTWOOD & HERBACEOUS CUTTINGS:
these are the fast growing soft tips of stems, usually taken in the spring. Herbaceous cuttings, sometimes called ‘tip cuttings’ or ‘shoot cuttings’, are taken from the young soft tips of stems.
Softwood and Herbaceous cuttings have many variations. Cuttings taken from annuals, herbaceous perennials, tropical plants and house plants are easier to propagate from cuttings than more hardened cuttings.
• HARDWOOD CUTTINGS:
these are taken from the fully mature stems of deciduous shrubs and trees. Stock plants for these cuttings require careful selection and preparation before growers take the cuttings. Pruning of the stock plants allow them to produce new growth early in the growing season. The new growth can produce roots. Growers take these cuttings at the end of the growing season or during the dormant season.
• GREENWOOD CUTTINGS:
these are the soft tips or stems after the spring growth has slowed. The stem is harder and woodier than the soft wood cutting.
• SEMI-RIPE CUTTINGS:
these are taken during the late summer after the annual growth has slowed. The stem is harder than softwood or green wood cuttings.
Other Types of Cuttings
SCION CUTTINGS
‘Scion cuttings’ are dormant 'ligneous' woody twigs.
EYE CUTTINGS
‘Eye cuttings’ are pieces of foliated or defoliated stalks with one or more eyes.
ROOT CUTTINGS
‘Root cuttings’ are parts of the root, usually annual. Growers take these from certain plants which have the capacity to regenerate stems from root parts.
LEAF CUTTINGS
‘Leaf cuttings’ are parts of the leaf. New roots develop at the base or veins of the cutting. Dry powder rooting hormones are usually used to treat these cuttings.
HANDLING UN-ROOTED CUTTIGS
• After taking cuttings, stick as soon as possible.
• USE PLANT ROOTING HORMONES.
• Do inspection.
• Reduce wilting during rooting.
• Maintain the appropriate environmental controls.
• Practice good sanitation.
HANDLING OFF-SHORE UN-ROOTED CUTTINGS
After receiving cuttings from off-shore sources, open all boxes immediately. Inspect the un-rooted cuttings for damage, dehydration, heat or freeze damage, breakage or rot. Report any missing items or damaged cuttings to the vendor. Do not allow the boxes to remain in sunny or hot places, or below freezing temperatures. Growers should stick the un-rooted cuttings into pre-moistened, well drained, soil-less media with 5.5- 6.5 pH. If it not possible to stick the un-rooted cuttings immediately they can be held for several days in a cooler between 35-45°F. The cuttings will deteriorate rapidly at warm temperatures.
WOUNDING
• Hardwood cuttings may root better if a 1/2 to 3/4 inch long notch, “wound,” is made at the basal end before applying the plant rooting hormone.
• Tropical and other herbaceous cuttings are not 'wounded'.
MEDIA
Stick cuttings as soon as possible after either taking cuttings or receiving off-shore cuttings. Use pre-moistened, well drained, soil-less media with 5.5- 6.5 pH. ‘Airy’ media allows oxygen to stimulate root growth. (See page 45 for notes.)
STICKING DEPTH
Stick the cuttings just deep enough that the medium anchors them. Thin cutting may be stuck 1/4-1/2 inch deep.
TRAY SIZE AND DIRECT STICKING
Tray sizes range from 36 to 128 cell. Larger cells are used for cuttings scheduled to remain in the starting tray longer. Un-rooted cuttings can also direct stick in the finishing container or sometimes beds.
ROOTING SOLUTIONS AND ROOTING POWDERS
Hortus IBA Water Soluble Salts & Rhizopon AA dry powder rooting hormones are applied to cuttings from ‘easy-to-root’ to ‘difficult-to-root’. Treated cuttings quickly form new uniform roots, strong root mass and homogenous propagation crops.
CONTROL OF THE GROWING AREA
Raising selected stock plants under controlled conditions is important. When growers give their stock plants proper care, the plants will produce the best cuttings. ‘Just taking’ cuttings from random ‘field plants’ leads to marginal results. The same way, control of the propagation house is equally important to the propagation of new plants.
Before production, always perform trials on selected plants, within the same facility.
INSPECTION
Growers must inspect their crops regularly to observe both intended and undesired results. Records should be kept that include information of the methods, materials, and plants used, and the quality of stock plants and cuttings.
ROOTED CUTTING CARE
Early stage treatment of the cutting crop is essential to produce high quality finished plants. Do not allow the rooted cuttings to become over-rooted, dried-out, crowded or under-fertilized. These situations may reduce plant growth.
PROVIDING THE BEST POSSIBLE CONDITIONS FOR ROOTING
Cuttings given less than optimal rooting conditions will waste energy. The result will be inferior root systems. To produce its own store of carbohydrates a plant needs the raw materials of light, water, carbon dioxide and oxygen.
LIGHT
Growers should regulate the propagation house so that the cuttings are not under direct sunlight. The effect of direct sunlight and the resultant heat will cause stress to the cuttings. Light is necessary for photosynthesis. Un-rooted cuttings are not able to engage in much photosynthesis; a small amount of light, 100-125 um PAR light, during the rooting process is sufficient. It is important at this stage is to provide a long period of light. A photo-period of 16-18 hours is adequate. Artificial lights are useful to extend natural daylight hours. Natural lighting or artificial lights may cause a rise in ambient temperature. Growers must control the growing area to avoid high temperatures from light sources.
WATER CONTENT OF THE MEDIA
A plant must have a good root system in order for it to absorb water. Water is crucial while the cuttings begin to form roots. If the substrate that is too dry, the plant will have cell death. Dead cells increase the risk of rot. A very dry substrate encourages callus formation. Although many believe that callus is beneficial for root formation, this is not true. The callus hinders and slows root formation. Growers measure how much moisture in the soil with a tensiometer. For best rooting, the meter should display a reading between moist and wet. Another way is to weigh the trays regularly. By trial, the growers determine if the trays have the proper weight for the “the proper moisture level,” then provide water based on these observations.
CARBON DIOXIDE (CO2) IN AIR & OXYGEN IN MEDIA
Photosynthesis is important for cuttings. Photosynthesis requires sufficient carbon dioxide (CO2), light, and water. An advantage of an increased level of CO2 in the air is that it reduces the transpiration, loss of water, through the plant. Cuttings in an environment with sufficient light and an increased CO2 level (800-1000 ppm) will form better roots. CO2 can be controlled using special generators. Oxygen is necessary for cell division and crucial for root formation. Growers must stick the cuttings into a substrate that has a structure which is sufficiently open to allow air, containing oxygen, to reach the developing roots. Dense media inhibits oxygen stimulation.
AIR CIRCULATION & TEMPERATURE CONTROL
Good air circulation is necessary when rooting un-rooted cuttings. Shade to approximately 50% light conditions, or as required, to reduce temperature during high heat periods.
TEMPERATURE
• Soil Temperature
Soil temperature has a direct influence on the speed of rooting. A soil temperature ranging between 68-77°F is ideal during the initial rooting stage. After this initial stage, growers can allow the temperature to drop a few degrees.
• Air Temperature
To prevent excess transpiration, controlling the temperature is important. To reduce aerial growth, air temperature should be a bit lower than soil temperature. The cuttings should be encouraged to use their energy mainly for developing roots. Above ground growth will come later.
• Light and Temperature Relationship
During the winter, when there is a low level of natural light, with no artificial lights, use a lower temperature. For example, cuttings will die if kept at temperatures near 74°F, short day and low light levels. Rooting activity in the soil will outpace its ability to do photosynthesis induced by the light.
FERTILIZATION
Follow fertilizer label instructions. Growers should fertilize un-rooted cuttings during propagation. Apply a complete N-P-K fertilizer. For many plants, use a fertilizer containing 300 ppm of nitrogen approximately two to three times a week. Start on the third day after sticking or when the callus is starting to form. Quality can suffer if the roots become rootbound. Fertilize the cuttings when planting. Apply liquid fertilizer solutions at a rate of 300 to 400 ppm immediately after planting.
INSECT AND DISEASE CONTROL
Good cultural practices and clean, well-ventilated growing space are your best defense against disease. Botrytis, the chief fungal threat, thrives in a moist, stagnant environment. Good air circulation and adequate light will reduce its harmful effects. Apply appropriate fungicides, insecticides, and other control products following label instructions.
HUMIDITY
Un-rooted cuttings must receive the highest amount of humidity. Temperature influences the ambient humidity. When the first roots appear, the humidity can be lowered; the rooted cuttings can adapt to the surroundings better.
MISTING GUIDELINES
Apply mist immediately and frequently to maintain turgidity and minimize wilting while roots develop. Extended days of high humidity may cause some plant cuttings to form aerial roots.
SELECT THE BEST POSSIBLE STOCK PLANTS
The best stock plants produce the best cuttings used for propagation. During each growing cycle, growers must select plants that exhibit the best growth characteristics; these are selected as ‘stock plants’. ‘Off-shore’ cuttings are from selected and maintained stock plants. The same selection process can be done at one’s own growing facility.
JUVENILE CUTTINGS
Cuttings taken from the newer juvenile parts of many plants root better than older mature parts. Shoots at the tops of the plant are physiologically older (more mature) than the shoots at the bottom of the plant (more juvenile). The top shoots have the characteristics of the more mature parts of the plant from which they originate. Juvenile cuttings require lower plant rooting hormone rates compared to the ‘older’ cuttings.
To maintain juvenality, annual and perennial cuttings should be taken from young stock plants. These stock plants, often a half year old, are used to produce the next generation stock plants from current cuttings. For woody plants ‘hedging’ can be done.
THE 'BEST' TIME TO TAKE CUTTINGS
Some plants, especially those which go dormant, have different rooting ability at different times of the year. Timing of a few weeks in taking of cuttings may have success or failure. After maturing to a certain age, often years, cuttings taken from certain plants may not be able to produce roots.
TYPICAL TIMING TO TAKE CUTTINGS
• Herbaceous cuttings from greenhouse crops, annual and tropical plants: anytime.
• Deciduous and evergreen plant cuttings: early summer through early fall.
• Dormant hardwood cuttings: fall or winter.
PREPARATION AND CARE OF CUTTINGS
Before taking cuttings, stock plants must be provided with good light and fertilization. This will boost stored carbohydrates used to feed the newly formed roots.
• Herbaceous plant cuttings should be treated and stuck soon after being taken. To prevent heat damage, in hot climates cuttings are put in coolers soon after being cut. Perennial and annual cutting suppliers may have offshore stock plant nurseries. When shipped, cuttings from these nurseries are kept chilled during transit using special cartons that protect the cuttings from temperature variation. The cuttings are packed in plastic bags to assure continued hydration. Shipping time is kept short, assuring prompt arrival at the rooting facility. Certain plants do not ship well; to assure propagation success, those stock plants should be grown near the rooting faculty.
• Winter woody cuttings taken in the fall can be treated with rooting hormones, kept in plastic, stored in cold storage, then planted-out in the spring.
• Growers usually take plant shoot cuttings from plant growth of the current growing season. Generally, thin cuttings will root more easily than thick cuttings. No one cutting type is useful to propagate all plants.
TYPES OF CUTTINGS
STEM CUTTINGS
‘Stem cuttings’ are the out-growing stems, mature sprouts or tip cuttings. Growers may take many types of stem cuttings.
• SOFTWOOD & HERBACEOUS CUTTINGS:
these are the fast growing soft tips of stems, usually taken in the spring. Herbaceous cuttings, sometimes called ‘tip cuttings’ or ‘shoot cuttings’, are taken from the young soft tips of stems.
Softwood and Herbaceous cuttings have many variations. Cuttings taken from annuals, herbaceous perennials, tropical plants and house plants are easier to propagate from cuttings than more hardened cuttings.
• HARDWOOD CUTTINGS:
these are taken from the fully mature stems of deciduous shrubs and trees. Stock plants for these cuttings require careful selection and preparation before growers take the cuttings. Pruning of the stock plants allow them to produce new growth early in the growing season. The new growth can produce roots. Growers take these cuttings at the end of the growing season or during the dormant season.
• GREENWOOD CUTTINGS:
these are the soft tips or stems after the spring growth has slowed. The stem is harder and woodier than the soft wood cutting.
• SEMI-RIPE CUTTINGS:
these are taken during the late summer after the annual growth has slowed. The stem is harder than softwood or green wood cuttings.
Other Types of Cuttings
SCION CUTTINGS
‘Scion cuttings’ are dormant 'ligneous' woody twigs.
EYE CUTTINGS
‘Eye cuttings’ are pieces of foliated or defoliated stalks with one or more eyes.
ROOT CUTTINGS
‘Root cuttings’ are parts of the root, usually annual. Growers take these from certain plants which have the capacity to regenerate stems from root parts.
LEAF CUTTINGS
‘Leaf cuttings’ are parts of the leaf. New roots develop at the base or veins of the cutting. Dry powder rooting hormones are usually used to treat these cuttings.
HANDLING UN-ROOTED CUTTIGS
• After taking cuttings, stick as soon as possible.
• USE PLANT ROOTING HORMONES.
• Do inspection.
• Reduce wilting during rooting.
• Maintain the appropriate environmental controls.
• Practice good sanitation.
HANDLING OFF-SHORE UN-ROOTED CUTTINGS
After receiving cuttings from off-shore sources, open all boxes immediately. Inspect the un-rooted cuttings for damage, dehydration, heat or freeze damage, breakage or rot. Report any missing items or damaged cuttings to the vendor. Do not allow the boxes to remain in sunny or hot places, or below freezing temperatures. Growers should stick the un-rooted cuttings into pre-moistened, well drained, soil-less media with 5.5- 6.5 pH. If it not possible to stick the un-rooted cuttings immediately they can be held for several days in a cooler between 35-45°F. The cuttings will deteriorate rapidly at warm temperatures.
WOUNDING
• Hardwood cuttings may root better if a 1/2 to 3/4 inch long notch, “wound,” is made at the basal end before applying the plant rooting hormone.
• Tropical and other herbaceous cuttings are not 'wounded'.
MEDIA
Stick cuttings as soon as possible after either taking cuttings or receiving off-shore cuttings. Use pre-moistened, well drained, soil-less media with 5.5- 6.5 pH. ‘Airy’ media allows oxygen to stimulate root growth. (See page 45 for notes.)
STICKING DEPTH
Stick the cuttings just deep enough that the medium anchors them. Thin cutting may be stuck 1/4-1/2 inch deep.
TRAY SIZE AND DIRECT STICKING
Tray sizes range from 36 to 128 cell. Larger cells are used for cuttings scheduled to remain in the starting tray longer. Un-rooted cuttings can also direct stick in the finishing container or sometimes beds.
ROOTING SOLUTIONS AND ROOTING POWDERS
Hortus IBA Water Soluble Salts & Rhizopon AA dry powder rooting hormones are applied to cuttings from ‘easy-to-root’ to ‘difficult-to-root’. Treated cuttings quickly form new uniform roots, strong root mass and homogenous propagation crops.
CONTROL OF THE GROWING AREA
Raising selected stock plants under controlled conditions is important. When growers give their stock plants proper care, the plants will produce the best cuttings. ‘Just taking’ cuttings from random ‘field plants’ leads to marginal results. The same way, control of the propagation house is equally important to the propagation of new plants.
Before production, always perform trials on selected plants, within the same facility.
INSPECTION
Growers must inspect their crops regularly to observe both intended and undesired results. Records should be kept that include information of the methods, materials, and plants used, and the quality of stock plants and cuttings.
ROOTED CUTTING CARE
Early stage treatment of the cutting crop is essential to produce high quality finished plants. Do not allow the rooted cuttings to become over-rooted, dried-out, crowded or under-fertilized. These situations may reduce plant growth.
PROVIDING THE BEST POSSIBLE CONDITIONS FOR ROOTING
Cuttings given less than optimal rooting conditions will waste energy. The result will be inferior root systems. To produce its own store of carbohydrates a plant needs the raw materials of light, water, carbon dioxide and oxygen.
LIGHT
Growers should regulate the propagation house so that the cuttings are not under direct sunlight. The effect of direct sunlight and the resultant heat will cause stress to the cuttings. Light is necessary for photosynthesis. Un-rooted cuttings are not able to engage in much photosynthesis; a small amount of light, 100-125 um PAR light, during the rooting process is sufficient. It is important at this stage is to provide a long period of light. A photo-period of 16-18 hours is adequate. Artificial lights are useful to extend natural daylight hours. Natural lighting or artificial lights may cause a rise in ambient temperature. Growers must control the growing area to avoid high temperatures from light sources.
WATER CONTENT OF THE MEDIA
A plant must have a good root system in order for it to absorb water. Water is crucial while the cuttings begin to form roots. If the substrate that is too dry, the plant will have cell death. Dead cells increase the risk of rot. A very dry substrate encourages callus formation. Although many believe that callus is beneficial for root formation, this is not true. The callus hinders and slows root formation. Growers measure how much moisture in the soil with a tensiometer. For best rooting, the meter should display a reading between moist and wet. Another way is to weigh the trays regularly. By trial, the growers determine if the trays have the proper weight for the “the proper moisture level,” then provide water based on these observations.
CARBON DIOXIDE (CO2) IN AIR & OXYGEN IN MEDIA
Photosynthesis is important for cuttings. Photosynthesis requires sufficient carbon dioxide (CO2), light, and water. An advantage of an increased level of CO2 in the air is that it reduces the transpiration, loss of water, through the plant. Cuttings in an environment with sufficient light and an increased CO2 level (800-1000 ppm) will form better roots. CO2 can be controlled using special generators. Oxygen is necessary for cell division and crucial for root formation. Growers must stick the cuttings into a substrate that has a structure which is sufficiently open to allow air, containing oxygen, to reach the developing roots. Dense media inhibits oxygen stimulation.
AIR CIRCULATION & TEMPERATURE CONTROL
Good air circulation is necessary when rooting un-rooted cuttings. Shade to approximately 50% light conditions, or as required, to reduce temperature during high heat periods.
TEMPERATURE
• Soil Temperature
Soil temperature has a direct influence on the speed of rooting. A soil temperature ranging between 68-77°F is ideal during the initial rooting stage. After this initial stage, growers can allow the temperature to drop a few degrees.
• Air Temperature
To prevent excess transpiration, controlling the temperature is important. To reduce aerial growth, air temperature should be a bit lower than soil temperature. The cuttings should be encouraged to use their energy mainly for developing roots. Above ground growth will come later.
• Light and Temperature Relationship
During the winter, when there is a low level of natural light, with no artificial lights, use a lower temperature. For example, cuttings will die if kept at temperatures near 74°F, short day and low light levels. Rooting activity in the soil will outpace its ability to do photosynthesis induced by the light.
FERTILIZATION
Follow fertilizer label instructions. Growers should fertilize un-rooted cuttings during propagation. Apply a complete N-P-K fertilizer. For many plants, use a fertilizer containing 300 ppm of nitrogen approximately two to three times a week. Start on the third day after sticking or when the callus is starting to form. Quality can suffer if the roots become rootbound. Fertilize the cuttings when planting. Apply liquid fertilizer solutions at a rate of 300 to 400 ppm immediately after planting.
INSECT AND DISEASE CONTROL
Good cultural practices and clean, well-ventilated growing space are your best defense against disease. Botrytis, the chief fungal threat, thrives in a moist, stagnant environment. Good air circulation and adequate light will reduce its harmful effects. Apply appropriate fungicides, insecticides, and other control products following label instructions.
HUMIDITY
Un-rooted cuttings must receive the highest amount of humidity. Temperature influences the ambient humidity. When the first roots appear, the humidity can be lowered; the rooted cuttings can adapt to the surroundings better.
MISTING GUIDELINES
Apply mist immediately and frequently to maintain turgidity and minimize wilting while roots develop. Extended days of high humidity may cause some plant cuttings to form aerial roots.
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文章
Miss Chen
2021年06月11日
Basics of taking plant cuttings
Plant shoot cuttings are usually taken from plant growth of the current growing season. Cuttings may be taken from various stages of plant growth. The range of cuttings is from succulent to hardwood. It is not possible to state one type of cutting which is useful for all plants.
Adjust the timing to take cuttings based upon the locale.
Cutting for most plants propagated in the greenhouse can usually be taken at any time. Cuttings from deciduous plants are usually taken in early summer. Cutting should not usually be taken from the end of a branch nor the top part, rather, in between. Testing and experience will allow you to select at what stage of maturity each type of plant will root best.
Select the 'best' time to take cuttings from the stock plant
Seasonal Variation
Some cutting from the same stock plant may root while others may not. There may be a 'best time' to take cuttings from the plant. Rooting of cuttings is affected by many variables. Some plants have different rooting ability at different times of the year. A few weeks difference in taking of cuttings may produce success or failure. Woody plants are especially influenced by timing. After a certain age, often years, some plants may even have difficulty producing cutting viable to produce roots.
Juvenile cuttings
Some plants produce better rooting when cuttings are taken from juvenile parts of the plant. When taking shoot cuttings from the same stock plant at the same time some cuttings may have different rooting ability. While a cutting may be young in growth age they may be old relative to the stem from which the cutting is taken. Physically young cuttings taken from the top of a two year old tree branch may exhibit root initiation performance as if they were two year old cuttings.
Cuttings taken from near the base of the plant may exhibit rooting characteristics similar to the real age of the cuttings; months old rather than years old. One reason may be the position of the shoots on the plant. Current years shoots may root different from second year shoots. Shoots from the lower part of the plant may have less sunlight than the upper shoots. The upper shoots may be a few weeks older than the lower shoots. Younger shoots need less stimulation, to root than older shoots; use a lower Rhizopon AA or Hortus IBA Water Soluble Salts concentration. The younger shoots require a more stable propagation environment.
Sometimes it is beneficial to induce juvenility by maintaining relatively young mother plants or to hedge the young mother plants. Pruning of the mother plants should be limited since the mother plant must constantly produce energy to produce new shoots. Change the mother plants frequently to induce better quality cuttings.
An excellent short description of juvenile plants, taken from 'Donor Plant Maturation and Adventitious Root Formation' by Wesley Hackett in Adventitious Root Formation in Cuttings, is reprinted in the DISCUSSION FORUM
Keep good notes
When taking cuttings it is important to keep notes. Include data such as the number of days after a key repeatable event, such as the flowering of forsythia to account for seasonal variation. Also note the origin of the cutting, the time and weather when the cuttings were taken and time of sticking, the date, etc.
Care of cuttings before Rhizopon AA or Hortus IBA Water Soluble Salts treatment
Plant cuttings to be rooted should be propagated soon after being taken from the stock plant. Cuttings of some plants may be kept fresh by keeping the basal end wrapped in moist fabric until ready to treat and plant. Do not keep unused cutting for an extended period. Stored in plastic, some cuttings, such as prunus root stocks, can be kept fresh by storing in a cool place. Keep the cuttings for a day or so in cold storage (about 40F) with a high relative humidity (95%) to give the cuttings a good turgor. Tropical plants are often stored at room temperature.
Wounding: notching the cuttings before treatment
Some plant cuttings, such as hardwood cuttings, root more easily if a small notch or wound is made at the basal end before treating with Rhizopon AA and Hortus IBA Water Soluble Salts. The cuts often 1/2-3/4 inch long made with a 'v' cut. Tropical and other herbaceous plants are usually not 'wounded'.
Treatment
Treat the cuttings with the Rhizopon and Hortus IBA Water Soluble Salts rooting products according to the need of the plant and the desired method.
Selection of media for rooting of cuttings
Different kinds of media are used for rooting cuttings of different species of plants. The grower should select the media appropriate for the plant. Some media variations commonly used are all peat moss, combinations of peat with sand, all sand, rockwool, and pearlite or vermiculite with soil mixes. When you use media, such as rockwool, which have no retention properties you must lower the Rhizopon AA or Hortus IBA Water Soluble Salts concentration.
Plant shoot cuttings are usually taken from plant growth of the current growing season. Cuttings may be taken from various stages of plant growth. The range of cuttings is from succulent to hardwood. It is not possible to state one type of cutting which is useful for all plants.
Adjust the timing to take cuttings based upon the locale.
Cutting for most plants propagated in the greenhouse can usually be taken at any time. Cuttings from deciduous plants are usually taken in early summer. Cutting should not usually be taken from the end of a branch nor the top part, rather, in between. Testing and experience will allow you to select at what stage of maturity each type of plant will root best.
Select the 'best' time to take cuttings from the stock plant
Seasonal Variation
Some cutting from the same stock plant may root while others may not. There may be a 'best time' to take cuttings from the plant. Rooting of cuttings is affected by many variables. Some plants have different rooting ability at different times of the year. A few weeks difference in taking of cuttings may produce success or failure. Woody plants are especially influenced by timing. After a certain age, often years, some plants may even have difficulty producing cutting viable to produce roots.
Juvenile cuttings
Some plants produce better rooting when cuttings are taken from juvenile parts of the plant. When taking shoot cuttings from the same stock plant at the same time some cuttings may have different rooting ability. While a cutting may be young in growth age they may be old relative to the stem from which the cutting is taken. Physically young cuttings taken from the top of a two year old tree branch may exhibit root initiation performance as if they were two year old cuttings.
Cuttings taken from near the base of the plant may exhibit rooting characteristics similar to the real age of the cuttings; months old rather than years old. One reason may be the position of the shoots on the plant. Current years shoots may root different from second year shoots. Shoots from the lower part of the plant may have less sunlight than the upper shoots. The upper shoots may be a few weeks older than the lower shoots. Younger shoots need less stimulation, to root than older shoots; use a lower Rhizopon AA or Hortus IBA Water Soluble Salts concentration. The younger shoots require a more stable propagation environment.
Sometimes it is beneficial to induce juvenility by maintaining relatively young mother plants or to hedge the young mother plants. Pruning of the mother plants should be limited since the mother plant must constantly produce energy to produce new shoots. Change the mother plants frequently to induce better quality cuttings.
An excellent short description of juvenile plants, taken from 'Donor Plant Maturation and Adventitious Root Formation' by Wesley Hackett in Adventitious Root Formation in Cuttings, is reprinted in the DISCUSSION FORUM
Keep good notes
When taking cuttings it is important to keep notes. Include data such as the number of days after a key repeatable event, such as the flowering of forsythia to account for seasonal variation. Also note the origin of the cutting, the time and weather when the cuttings were taken and time of sticking, the date, etc.
Care of cuttings before Rhizopon AA or Hortus IBA Water Soluble Salts treatment
Plant cuttings to be rooted should be propagated soon after being taken from the stock plant. Cuttings of some plants may be kept fresh by keeping the basal end wrapped in moist fabric until ready to treat and plant. Do not keep unused cutting for an extended period. Stored in plastic, some cuttings, such as prunus root stocks, can be kept fresh by storing in a cool place. Keep the cuttings for a day or so in cold storage (about 40F) with a high relative humidity (95%) to give the cuttings a good turgor. Tropical plants are often stored at room temperature.
Wounding: notching the cuttings before treatment
Some plant cuttings, such as hardwood cuttings, root more easily if a small notch or wound is made at the basal end before treating with Rhizopon AA and Hortus IBA Water Soluble Salts. The cuts often 1/2-3/4 inch long made with a 'v' cut. Tropical and other herbaceous plants are usually not 'wounded'.
Treatment
Treat the cuttings with the Rhizopon and Hortus IBA Water Soluble Salts rooting products according to the need of the plant and the desired method.
Selection of media for rooting of cuttings
Different kinds of media are used for rooting cuttings of different species of plants. The grower should select the media appropriate for the plant. Some media variations commonly used are all peat moss, combinations of peat with sand, all sand, rockwool, and pearlite or vermiculite with soil mixes. When you use media, such as rockwool, which have no retention properties you must lower the Rhizopon AA or Hortus IBA Water Soluble Salts concentration.
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文章
Miss Chen
2021年06月01日
Use of plant rooting hormones with other growing agents
To save time, sometimes growers want to apply the rooting solution with a water based fungicide, or other growing agents, together. Selected rates for each product is used. Hortus USA does not recommend mixing Hortus IBA Water Soluble Salts solutions with other plant growth agents. There are many compatibility variables. The grower assumes all responsibility for mixing; evaluation trials must be made on small lots before any production lots are treated.
The method of application determines where the solution acts on the plant cuttings. Basal applications only are to the basal area; the cutting basal end is then stuck below the soil level. Foliar spray drip down application is done after the cuttings have been stuck in media; the solution only reaches the portion of the cutting above the media. Foliar total immerse application has the solution reach all parts of the cutting. Consideration should be made which parts of the cutting are intended to be treated.
Media
When propagating plants from cuttings consideration of individual plant needs relative to the media selected. Some requirements for media selection are pH, the need for water retention, and the absolute necessity of air oxygen to the cuttings. Pond or bog plant cuttings need a media that retains large amounts of water. Succulent plant cuttings need media that allows air flow while retaining little amounts of water.
Most terrestrial plant cuttings from woody plants, annual or perennials need different types of media. Media selection will allow needed oxygen to reach the cuttings. Cleanliness, sometimes sterilization, is essential to avoid pathogen introduction to the cuttings. Media combinations, with sand or pearlite, promote air getting to the cuttings..
Control the temperature
Temperature influences the speed to root cuttings. Higher temperature produces faster effect. If possible keep the temperature between 65-70F. High temperature accelerates fungus and bacterial growth above 70F. High temperature of the ambient air stimulates the growth of shoots at the expense of roots. Keep the air temperature lower than the soil temperature.
Control the light
After Rhizopon AA or Hortus IBA Water Soluble Salt treatment and planting in media the cuttings need light and water. For cuttings with leaves light is required for photo-synthesis to develop natural foods in the form of carbohydrates. Provide shade on bright, hot days to avoid scalding the cuttings. Cuttings without leaves do not require light for rooting; they depend upon stored carbohydrates.
Control the humidity
To prevent the cuttings from dehydrating through the leaves and stems the cuttings are often propagated under mist systems in controlled greenhouses or tunnels, in cutting trays covered with plastic.
Control hardening off
After root initiation harden off slowly by reducing the temperature and humidity. Frequently observe the growing environment and take action to assure that there are no fungus, insects, pathogens, etc. After the cuttings are rooted control the environment to bring the temperature and humidity to the ambient level.
Control the carbon dioxide
Maintain the carbon dioxide at about 1000 ppm.
Testing is essential
The condition of the cuttings or the rooted plant and the resultant rooting potency varies from season to season. Check the results regularly. Adjust the dosage, timing and method of application of Rhizopon AA or Hortus IBA Water Soluble Salt rooting products and other propagation materials. Fluctuation in the climate of the propagation area, varying light intensity, humidity, wetness of the media, type of media, frequency of watering, fungus growth, insect infestation, etc., will affect results. Carrying out a few tests will not take much time. The tests will keep you up to date with results. Tests go along with your normal growing operations and allow you to make timely corrective actions.
To save time, sometimes growers want to apply the rooting solution with a water based fungicide, or other growing agents, together. Selected rates for each product is used. Hortus USA does not recommend mixing Hortus IBA Water Soluble Salts solutions with other plant growth agents. There are many compatibility variables. The grower assumes all responsibility for mixing; evaluation trials must be made on small lots before any production lots are treated.
The method of application determines where the solution acts on the plant cuttings. Basal applications only are to the basal area; the cutting basal end is then stuck below the soil level. Foliar spray drip down application is done after the cuttings have been stuck in media; the solution only reaches the portion of the cutting above the media. Foliar total immerse application has the solution reach all parts of the cutting. Consideration should be made which parts of the cutting are intended to be treated.
Media
When propagating plants from cuttings consideration of individual plant needs relative to the media selected. Some requirements for media selection are pH, the need for water retention, and the absolute necessity of air oxygen to the cuttings. Pond or bog plant cuttings need a media that retains large amounts of water. Succulent plant cuttings need media that allows air flow while retaining little amounts of water.
Most terrestrial plant cuttings from woody plants, annual or perennials need different types of media. Media selection will allow needed oxygen to reach the cuttings. Cleanliness, sometimes sterilization, is essential to avoid pathogen introduction to the cuttings. Media combinations, with sand or pearlite, promote air getting to the cuttings..
Control the temperature
Temperature influences the speed to root cuttings. Higher temperature produces faster effect. If possible keep the temperature between 65-70F. High temperature accelerates fungus and bacterial growth above 70F. High temperature of the ambient air stimulates the growth of shoots at the expense of roots. Keep the air temperature lower than the soil temperature.
Control the light
After Rhizopon AA or Hortus IBA Water Soluble Salt treatment and planting in media the cuttings need light and water. For cuttings with leaves light is required for photo-synthesis to develop natural foods in the form of carbohydrates. Provide shade on bright, hot days to avoid scalding the cuttings. Cuttings without leaves do not require light for rooting; they depend upon stored carbohydrates.
Control the humidity
To prevent the cuttings from dehydrating through the leaves and stems the cuttings are often propagated under mist systems in controlled greenhouses or tunnels, in cutting trays covered with plastic.
Control hardening off
After root initiation harden off slowly by reducing the temperature and humidity. Frequently observe the growing environment and take action to assure that there are no fungus, insects, pathogens, etc. After the cuttings are rooted control the environment to bring the temperature and humidity to the ambient level.
Control the carbon dioxide
Maintain the carbon dioxide at about 1000 ppm.
Testing is essential
The condition of the cuttings or the rooted plant and the resultant rooting potency varies from season to season. Check the results regularly. Adjust the dosage, timing and method of application of Rhizopon AA or Hortus IBA Water Soluble Salt rooting products and other propagation materials. Fluctuation in the climate of the propagation area, varying light intensity, humidity, wetness of the media, type of media, frequency of watering, fungus growth, insect infestation, etc., will affect results. Carrying out a few tests will not take much time. The tests will keep you up to date with results. Tests go along with your normal growing operations and allow you to make timely corrective actions.
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文章
Miss Chen
2021年05月24日
Distribution and habitat: Kalanchoe tomentosa is a succulent sub-shrub native of Madagascar. It is found on granite rocks, growing up to 45cm (1.5 feet) tall.
The dense covering of hairs performs a vital function for the plant as water conservation adaptation. In the dry environment in which it lives, the plant must conserve what little water it can absorb from the soil. The dense mat of hairs growing from the leaf retards the movement of air directly across the leaf surface, thereby reducing water vapor loss due to transpiration process. In the same time, this unventilated space created by the numerous trichomes insulates the leaf from its harsh external environment, too. In addition, the white-silver appearance of the leaves reflects light, lessening the chances of the leaves overheating.
Description: The Kalanchoe tomentosa is a very handsome foliage species. It has loose rosette of oval leaves borne on woody stems up to 45cm (1.5 feet) high. The 3-8cm (1-3 inch) long leaves are covered with fine, bristly hairs, which are silvered-coloured except in patches at the edge, where they change to rusty orange on young leaves or chocolate brown on older ones.
The thick stem produces branches and many groups of leaves, once it matures. When they are pruned well they have a kind of tree or bush look and can produce branches growing below pot level – therefore, this plant is suitable for growing in a hanging at this stage. The leaves are mainly oval shaped, although it is likely to have few leaves randomly grow in whatever shape and form.
Although this plant can flower within its natural habitat, producing fuzzy, bell-shaped flowers in spring and summer – it is rare to see flowers bloom indoors, so it is grown for primarily its foliage within homes or offices.
Proper care: Kalanchoe tomentosa is a fairly easy succulent plant species to care for and maintain.
If the furry leaves of this plant need to be cleaned, brush them gently with a soft, dry brush, such as a small paintbrush.
Light: Kalanchoe tomentosa is – like many other succulents loves growing in bright light and sunshine. This plant prefers a mixture of direct and indirect sunlight or shade.
Temperature: Temperatures between 15-23ºC (60-75ºF) are advised. Like most plants, Kalanchoe tomentosa will benefit from good ventilation, but should not be exposed to prolonged draughts.
Normal room humidity is fine and it may also tolerate dry air.
Watering: Only water Kalanchoe tomentosa once the soil has become dry and then soak the soil, but do not leave water in the bottom tray. During the winter this plant needs less water.
Because Kalanchoe tomentosa is a succulent – it stores water within its leaves – even if it is neglected for a period of time the plant will survive.
Water from the bottom or water the potting mix. Avoid getting the furry leaves of this plant wet because they’ll easily rot.
Feeding: Feed Kalanchoe tomentosa once every four weeks with a diluted fertiliser, from spring until the end of summer. Do not fertilise this plant during the rest period.
Potting and repotting: Use a cacti and succulent potting mixture or a soil based potting mixture with the addition of a small amount of coarse sand. Good drainage is important; have a shallow layer of clay-pot fragments at the bottom of the pot. Kalanchoe tomentosa plant is a slow grower which will only need repotting into pots one size larger once every two years and then less once it matures. The maximum pot size needed should be about 13cm (5 inch).
Gardening: Kalanchoe tomentosa is one of the easiest-to-grow succulents and looks wonderful mass planted in a hot spot in the garden. It needs dry conditions and is not suited to outdoor planting in high rainfall areas.
Kalanchoe tomentosa branches freely to make a prostrate clump. After a while, it can become straggly and should be clipped back to keep it in check and make it neat and tidy.
They need warm temperature and should be kept at a minimum of 10°C (50°F). Protect them from frost. These plants come from very warm areas and may develop rot if kept too cool.
Position: Kalanchoe tomentosa plants need light shade or shade in summer. Bright light will give the plant a woolliest appearance. However, it should not be subjected to the direct sun of midday.
Soil: Kalanchoe tomentosa needs a porous soil containing about one third grit with adequate drainage. Soil mix consisting of 2 parts sand to 1 part loam, with small gravel added to increase drainage
Irrigation: Kalanchoe tomentosa plants are drought tolerant, but came from damper climates than most succulents and like more water in the summer. Plants are watered and allow to dry thoroughly before watering again.
Fertilise: Fertilise only during the growing season (Spring and Summer) with a balanced cactus food or a liquid fertiliser diluted to half the strength recommended on the label.
Propagation: Leaf cuttings can be taken and planted in new soil during spring. Give the leaf cutting a week of drying out before re-potting, then they are expect to begin rooting within 4 weeks.
Propagation: It is propagated by stem cutting or by leaf cuttings in spring or summer. The trimmings resulted from shaping the plant, make ideal cuttings. Allow cuttings to dry out before repotting. These cuttings root easily in 8cm pots (3 inch) filled with a mixture of peat moss and sand. Place the pots in a warm position in bright filtered light. Water the mixture whenever the top 1-2cm (0.4-0.8 inch) dries out. The cuttings usually will produce roots in about 4 weeks. When roots have formed and new growth appears, move each young plant into a pot of standard mixture. Make sure that the pot is large enough to hold the roots. Thereafter, it should be possible to treat the plant as a mature Kalanchoe tomentosa.
Problems: Kalanchoe tomentosa, like most members of the Crassulaceae family, have succulent leaves which are a great attraction for pests such as mealy bugs. While this species is no more prone to attack than others, because of the silvery-white hairy leaves, it is easy to miss the first signs of these pests. Treatment: A regular, careful inspection is sensible. Occasional watering with systemic insecticides based on Imidacloprid will keep the plants free of mealy bugs.
If rot affects the plant, it normally starts at the root.
Treatment: If spotted early, cuttings can be made easily from the tips of the stems to make new plants.
Recommended varieties:
Kalanchoe tomentosa cv. Chocolate Soldier: Individual leaves are more red-brown all around the edges and thinner and longer than for the standard species. It also grows a bit faster with more of a clumping habit.
Toxicity: All parts of Kalanchoe tomentosa plant are poisonous if ingested.
Uses and display: Once the Kalanchoe tomentosa plants matures, they look fantastic placed within a hanging basket or sitting in a conservatory. A conservatory is ideal because they do like their bright light and some sun. Whilst they are still small and growing, then near windows and on shelves which receive enough sunlight are good spots for displaying them.
Grow this Kalanchoe tomentosa in a rock garden or on a rock wall in mild climates. In cold areas, this heat-loving plant is grown as indoor plant or it is planted outdoors as an annual.
Kalanchoe tomentosa is drought-tolerant, therefore it is suitable for xeriscaping.
SUMMARY:
CHARACTERISTICS:
Foliage – green
Features – flowers
Shape – bushy
Height: 45cm (1.5 feet)
PROPER CARE:
Watering in active growth period – sparingly
Light – direct
Temperature in active growth period – min 16°C max 24°C (61-75°F)
Humidity – low
Hardiness zone: 9b-11
The dense covering of hairs performs a vital function for the plant as water conservation adaptation. In the dry environment in which it lives, the plant must conserve what little water it can absorb from the soil. The dense mat of hairs growing from the leaf retards the movement of air directly across the leaf surface, thereby reducing water vapor loss due to transpiration process. In the same time, this unventilated space created by the numerous trichomes insulates the leaf from its harsh external environment, too. In addition, the white-silver appearance of the leaves reflects light, lessening the chances of the leaves overheating.
Description: The Kalanchoe tomentosa is a very handsome foliage species. It has loose rosette of oval leaves borne on woody stems up to 45cm (1.5 feet) high. The 3-8cm (1-3 inch) long leaves are covered with fine, bristly hairs, which are silvered-coloured except in patches at the edge, where they change to rusty orange on young leaves or chocolate brown on older ones.
The thick stem produces branches and many groups of leaves, once it matures. When they are pruned well they have a kind of tree or bush look and can produce branches growing below pot level – therefore, this plant is suitable for growing in a hanging at this stage. The leaves are mainly oval shaped, although it is likely to have few leaves randomly grow in whatever shape and form.
Although this plant can flower within its natural habitat, producing fuzzy, bell-shaped flowers in spring and summer – it is rare to see flowers bloom indoors, so it is grown for primarily its foliage within homes or offices.
Proper care: Kalanchoe tomentosa is a fairly easy succulent plant species to care for and maintain.
If the furry leaves of this plant need to be cleaned, brush them gently with a soft, dry brush, such as a small paintbrush.
Light: Kalanchoe tomentosa is – like many other succulents loves growing in bright light and sunshine. This plant prefers a mixture of direct and indirect sunlight or shade.
Temperature: Temperatures between 15-23ºC (60-75ºF) are advised. Like most plants, Kalanchoe tomentosa will benefit from good ventilation, but should not be exposed to prolonged draughts.
Normal room humidity is fine and it may also tolerate dry air.
Watering: Only water Kalanchoe tomentosa once the soil has become dry and then soak the soil, but do not leave water in the bottom tray. During the winter this plant needs less water.
Because Kalanchoe tomentosa is a succulent – it stores water within its leaves – even if it is neglected for a period of time the plant will survive.
Water from the bottom or water the potting mix. Avoid getting the furry leaves of this plant wet because they’ll easily rot.
Feeding: Feed Kalanchoe tomentosa once every four weeks with a diluted fertiliser, from spring until the end of summer. Do not fertilise this plant during the rest period.
Potting and repotting: Use a cacti and succulent potting mixture or a soil based potting mixture with the addition of a small amount of coarse sand. Good drainage is important; have a shallow layer of clay-pot fragments at the bottom of the pot. Kalanchoe tomentosa plant is a slow grower which will only need repotting into pots one size larger once every two years and then less once it matures. The maximum pot size needed should be about 13cm (5 inch).
Gardening: Kalanchoe tomentosa is one of the easiest-to-grow succulents and looks wonderful mass planted in a hot spot in the garden. It needs dry conditions and is not suited to outdoor planting in high rainfall areas.
Kalanchoe tomentosa branches freely to make a prostrate clump. After a while, it can become straggly and should be clipped back to keep it in check and make it neat and tidy.
They need warm temperature and should be kept at a minimum of 10°C (50°F). Protect them from frost. These plants come from very warm areas and may develop rot if kept too cool.
Position: Kalanchoe tomentosa plants need light shade or shade in summer. Bright light will give the plant a woolliest appearance. However, it should not be subjected to the direct sun of midday.
Soil: Kalanchoe tomentosa needs a porous soil containing about one third grit with adequate drainage. Soil mix consisting of 2 parts sand to 1 part loam, with small gravel added to increase drainage
Irrigation: Kalanchoe tomentosa plants are drought tolerant, but came from damper climates than most succulents and like more water in the summer. Plants are watered and allow to dry thoroughly before watering again.
Fertilise: Fertilise only during the growing season (Spring and Summer) with a balanced cactus food or a liquid fertiliser diluted to half the strength recommended on the label.
Propagation: Leaf cuttings can be taken and planted in new soil during spring. Give the leaf cutting a week of drying out before re-potting, then they are expect to begin rooting within 4 weeks.
Propagation: It is propagated by stem cutting or by leaf cuttings in spring or summer. The trimmings resulted from shaping the plant, make ideal cuttings. Allow cuttings to dry out before repotting. These cuttings root easily in 8cm pots (3 inch) filled with a mixture of peat moss and sand. Place the pots in a warm position in bright filtered light. Water the mixture whenever the top 1-2cm (0.4-0.8 inch) dries out. The cuttings usually will produce roots in about 4 weeks. When roots have formed and new growth appears, move each young plant into a pot of standard mixture. Make sure that the pot is large enough to hold the roots. Thereafter, it should be possible to treat the plant as a mature Kalanchoe tomentosa.
Problems: Kalanchoe tomentosa, like most members of the Crassulaceae family, have succulent leaves which are a great attraction for pests such as mealy bugs. While this species is no more prone to attack than others, because of the silvery-white hairy leaves, it is easy to miss the first signs of these pests. Treatment: A regular, careful inspection is sensible. Occasional watering with systemic insecticides based on Imidacloprid will keep the plants free of mealy bugs.
If rot affects the plant, it normally starts at the root.
Treatment: If spotted early, cuttings can be made easily from the tips of the stems to make new plants.
Recommended varieties:
Kalanchoe tomentosa cv. Chocolate Soldier: Individual leaves are more red-brown all around the edges and thinner and longer than for the standard species. It also grows a bit faster with more of a clumping habit.
Toxicity: All parts of Kalanchoe tomentosa plant are poisonous if ingested.
Uses and display: Once the Kalanchoe tomentosa plants matures, they look fantastic placed within a hanging basket or sitting in a conservatory. A conservatory is ideal because they do like their bright light and some sun. Whilst they are still small and growing, then near windows and on shelves which receive enough sunlight are good spots for displaying them.
Grow this Kalanchoe tomentosa in a rock garden or on a rock wall in mild climates. In cold areas, this heat-loving plant is grown as indoor plant or it is planted outdoors as an annual.
Kalanchoe tomentosa is drought-tolerant, therefore it is suitable for xeriscaping.
SUMMARY:
CHARACTERISTICS:
Foliage – green
Features – flowers
Shape – bushy
Height: 45cm (1.5 feet)
PROPER CARE:
Watering in active growth period – sparingly
Light – direct
Temperature in active growth period – min 16°C max 24°C (61-75°F)
Humidity – low
Hardiness zone: 9b-11
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文章
Miss Chen
2021年03月31日
Summer came quietly,
In order to add a beautiful scenery to the windowsill
Many friends around
Start a gust of wind
Growing succulents
Or some plants that can be grown on the balcony.
Today
Just share it with everyone
How to protect flowers??
1. White vinegar cures yellow leaves
Applicable species: Camellia, azalea, frangipani, osmanthus, Milan, gardenia, jasmine and other acid-loving plants.
When growing flowers, flowers and leaves are often withered. If it is not for lack of water, it may be yellowing disease.
White vinegar and water are diluted in a ratio of 1:500 and placed in a small spray bottle, and sprayed on the leaves in the morning, spraying once every 2 days.
2. Beer to promote flowers
Applicable species: Foliage plants such as green radish, Brazilian ironwood, monstera, geranium, Chlorophytum, Dieffenbachia.
Wiping the leaves with beer can make the leaves green and bright, and watering on the roots can also make the plants grow vigorously and bloom in time.
Dilute the water and beer in a certain proportion, mix them evenly, and pour them on the roots of foliage plants. Twice a month, the flowers can be fresh and bright.
Pour a little beer in the vase when arranging flowers to make the colors of the flowers radiant.
3. Use waste oil to grow flowers
Applicable species: night flower, rose, clivia, longevity flower, honeysuckle and other fertilizer-loving plants.
Every time you clean the range hood, don't throw away the waste oil in the oil collecting cup. It is a good partner for plant-loving plants.
Insert holes at the edge of the flowerpot. Generally, insert two holes in the pot with a diameter of 15 cm, and three holes with a diameter of 25 cm. Pour waste oil into the hole and cover it with soil. The fertilizer effect can be maintained for two to three months.
4. Soapy water kills insects
Applicable species: all insect-bearing plants.
When there are pests on plants, try soapy water. It can kill many soft-shell pests, such as aphids, red spiders, and ants.
Dissolve the soap with rainwater, well water, cold boiled water, etc., and keep the concentration below 1%. Spray the solution on the leaf surface and back of diseased leaves in the morning, and don't spray it if there is no insect damage.
Soapy water tends to make the soil alkaline, so it is generally not used for watering flowers, but the insecticidal effect is not bad.
The above method is the secret recipe that Xiaon tried. Dear friends, you can choose the right method according to your flower type!
In order to add a beautiful scenery to the windowsill
Many friends around
Start a gust of wind
Growing succulents
Or some plants that can be grown on the balcony.
Today
Just share it with everyone
How to protect flowers??
1. White vinegar cures yellow leaves
Applicable species: Camellia, azalea, frangipani, osmanthus, Milan, gardenia, jasmine and other acid-loving plants.
When growing flowers, flowers and leaves are often withered. If it is not for lack of water, it may be yellowing disease.
White vinegar and water are diluted in a ratio of 1:500 and placed in a small spray bottle, and sprayed on the leaves in the morning, spraying once every 2 days.
2. Beer to promote flowers
Applicable species: Foliage plants such as green radish, Brazilian ironwood, monstera, geranium, Chlorophytum, Dieffenbachia.
Wiping the leaves with beer can make the leaves green and bright, and watering on the roots can also make the plants grow vigorously and bloom in time.
Dilute the water and beer in a certain proportion, mix them evenly, and pour them on the roots of foliage plants. Twice a month, the flowers can be fresh and bright.
Pour a little beer in the vase when arranging flowers to make the colors of the flowers radiant.
3. Use waste oil to grow flowers
Applicable species: night flower, rose, clivia, longevity flower, honeysuckle and other fertilizer-loving plants.
Every time you clean the range hood, don't throw away the waste oil in the oil collecting cup. It is a good partner for plant-loving plants.
Insert holes at the edge of the flowerpot. Generally, insert two holes in the pot with a diameter of 15 cm, and three holes with a diameter of 25 cm. Pour waste oil into the hole and cover it with soil. The fertilizer effect can be maintained for two to three months.
4. Soapy water kills insects
Applicable species: all insect-bearing plants.
When there are pests on plants, try soapy water. It can kill many soft-shell pests, such as aphids, red spiders, and ants.
Dissolve the soap with rainwater, well water, cold boiled water, etc., and keep the concentration below 1%. Spray the solution on the leaf surface and back of diseased leaves in the morning, and don't spray it if there is no insect damage.
Soapy water tends to make the soil alkaline, so it is generally not used for watering flowers, but the insecticidal effect is not bad.
The above method is the secret recipe that Xiaon tried. Dear friends, you can choose the right method according to your flower type!
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文章
莹723
2021年03月16日
March is a busy time on the allotment – the days are lengthening and getting warmer, and the growing season is getting underway. Unfortunately that includes weeds and weeding is a very important job in early spring – get on top of them now and you’ll save yourself a lot of work later in the year.
You can also begin to sow and plant out – see our handy guide vegetable seeds to sow in March, but only do this if the weather is good. The weather can be fickle at this time of year – some days are warm and sunny, while others are still cold and if the weather is bad, wait until better weather is forecast. In the meantime, you could warm the soil on part of the plot for early sowings.
Here are some key allotment jobs for March.
1.Weed your plot
Dig out any problem weeds, especially perennial weeds – if you get on top of them now, they’ll be easier to control for the rest of the year. Hoe regularly to prevent annual weed seedlings growing.
2.Protect plants from pests
Slugs can start to be a problem in warmer, wet weather, so take steps to protect your plants. Protect brassicas from hungry pigeons by covering them with fleece. Look out for grey mould and downy mildew on brassicas. You might spot some aphids, too.
3.Warm the soil and force early crops
Cover beds with cloches or black plastic to warm the soil for early sowings. Encourage an early crop of strawberries in early summer by covering a row or two with a cloche. You can continue to force rhubarb, too, by covering it with a forcer or upturned dustbin or bucket.
4.Feed brassicas and fruit
Feed cabbages and other brassicas with pelleted chicken manure or other nitrogen-rich fertiliser. You could also feed fruit trees and bushes, including cherries and plums.
5.Order or buy young veg plants
Buy trays of young veg plants that you don’t have the time or space to grow from seed. Buy them by mail order or look for them at the garden centre.
6.Sow seeds
Sow beetroot, broad beans, salads and Swiss chard direct into well-prepared soil. You could also make early sowings of carrots, peas, spinach and radishes if the soil is warm enough. You can also start off aubergines, chillies and peppers, plus tomatoes, under cover.
7.Get planting
Planting onions in a row
March is the last month for planting bare-root fruit trees and bushes. You can also plant bare-root strawberry runners, asparagus crowns and Jerusalem artichokes and plant out garlic, shallots and onion sets.
You can also begin to sow and plant out – see our handy guide vegetable seeds to sow in March, but only do this if the weather is good. The weather can be fickle at this time of year – some days are warm and sunny, while others are still cold and if the weather is bad, wait until better weather is forecast. In the meantime, you could warm the soil on part of the plot for early sowings.
Here are some key allotment jobs for March.
1.Weed your plot
Dig out any problem weeds, especially perennial weeds – if you get on top of them now, they’ll be easier to control for the rest of the year. Hoe regularly to prevent annual weed seedlings growing.
2.Protect plants from pests
Slugs can start to be a problem in warmer, wet weather, so take steps to protect your plants. Protect brassicas from hungry pigeons by covering them with fleece. Look out for grey mould and downy mildew on brassicas. You might spot some aphids, too.
3.Warm the soil and force early crops
Cover beds with cloches or black plastic to warm the soil for early sowings. Encourage an early crop of strawberries in early summer by covering a row or two with a cloche. You can continue to force rhubarb, too, by covering it with a forcer or upturned dustbin or bucket.
4.Feed brassicas and fruit
Feed cabbages and other brassicas with pelleted chicken manure or other nitrogen-rich fertiliser. You could also feed fruit trees and bushes, including cherries and plums.
5.Order or buy young veg plants
Buy trays of young veg plants that you don’t have the time or space to grow from seed. Buy them by mail order or look for them at the garden centre.
6.Sow seeds
Sow beetroot, broad beans, salads and Swiss chard direct into well-prepared soil. You could also make early sowings of carrots, peas, spinach and radishes if the soil is warm enough. You can also start off aubergines, chillies and peppers, plus tomatoes, under cover.
7.Get planting
Planting onions in a row
March is the last month for planting bare-root fruit trees and bushes. You can also plant bare-root strawberry runners, asparagus crowns and Jerusalem artichokes and plant out garlic, shallots and onion sets.
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文章
莹723
2021年03月07日
There are lots of vegetable crops that can be sown in March, when the days are beginning to lengthen and become warmer.
Some crops, such as chillies and tomatoes, need to be sown early in the year in order to give them the long growing season they need. Others, such as fast-growing beetroot and salads can be started off early so that you can enjoy them in late spring and early summer – keep sowing them every few weeks to extend the harvest.
Tender crops like aubergines need to be sown under glass, either in a greenhouse or on a sunny windowsill. Hardier crops like beetroot and broad beans can be sown directly into the ground outdoors, just don’t sow if the ground is frosty or covered in snow.
Find out which crops you can sow in March, below.
1.Aubergines, chillies and tomatoes
In the unpredictable British climate, tomatoes, chillies and aubergines need a long growing season in order to produce a good crop – so start them off early. Sow under glass for the best results.
2.Broad beans
Broad beans are a welcome crop in early summer, and can be sown outdoors in March. Watch out for blackfly as the plants grow – pinch out the growing tip, where they congregate.
3.Beetroot
Beetroot will germinate in low temperatures, so can be sown direct outdoors in March. Harvest when the beets have reached golf ball size.
4.Swiss chard
Swiss chard is a beautiful crop for a sunny or partially shaded spot. Sow direct outside from March onwards.
5.Salad
Start sowing salads from March onwards, and you’ll be enjoying tasty leaves for months to come. In March, they are best sown indoors.
Some crops, such as chillies and tomatoes, need to be sown early in the year in order to give them the long growing season they need. Others, such as fast-growing beetroot and salads can be started off early so that you can enjoy them in late spring and early summer – keep sowing them every few weeks to extend the harvest.
Tender crops like aubergines need to be sown under glass, either in a greenhouse or on a sunny windowsill. Hardier crops like beetroot and broad beans can be sown directly into the ground outdoors, just don’t sow if the ground is frosty or covered in snow.
Find out which crops you can sow in March, below.
1.Aubergines, chillies and tomatoes
In the unpredictable British climate, tomatoes, chillies and aubergines need a long growing season in order to produce a good crop – so start them off early. Sow under glass for the best results.
2.Broad beans
Broad beans are a welcome crop in early summer, and can be sown outdoors in March. Watch out for blackfly as the plants grow – pinch out the growing tip, where they congregate.
3.Beetroot
Beetroot will germinate in low temperatures, so can be sown direct outdoors in March. Harvest when the beets have reached golf ball size.
4.Swiss chard
Swiss chard is a beautiful crop for a sunny or partially shaded spot. Sow direct outside from March onwards.
5.Salad
Start sowing salads from March onwards, and you’ll be enjoying tasty leaves for months to come. In March, they are best sown indoors.
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文章
莹723
2021年02月21日
Whether you're growing fruits and veggies or herbs and flowers, edging is the finishing touch for any type of garden. By placing edging around garden beds full of annual flowers and perennials, they'll look more polished and your mulch will stay in place. Plus, it will add character and charm to your home's curb appeal.
Installing garden edging also takes some effort! Get your tools together first, including gardening gloves, an edging shovel, garden spade, rake and kneeler pad.
Here are some of the best materials for edging your garden beds.
1.Paver Stones
Pavers made from concrete are nearly indestructible. But they're heavy to handle and time-consuming to install, so plan on a few days of heavy carrying and digging. You can make paths with pavers, or just use them for edging beds.
Pros: Lasts forever and very attractive
Cons: Time-consuming to install
2.Woven Willow
Also called "wattle," this natural edge is perfect for English or country gardens. It's used extensively in Europe.
Pros: Beautiful in the right setting
Cons: Easily damaged and pricey for large areas
3.Natural Rock
Rocks are available in an array of sizes, colors, and shapes, and creeping flowers look amazing tumbling over them! Simply line the edges of each bed, but opt for rocks that are the size of a soft ball or larger for the most visual impact. Visit a nursery or garden center for options.
Pros: Lasts forever
Cons: Takes time to fit them together in a pleasing way
4.Brick
Lay bricks in a shallow trench on their side with the wide side down, or stand them upright. The hardest part is getting everything level. Hint: Use a rubber mallet and line level on a string.
Pros: Lasts forever, relatively inexpensive
Cons: Labor-intensive to install
5.Poured Concrete
This is typically not a DIY job for newbies, as you must build a form, then mix and pour concrete into the mold. Consider hiring an expert, because mistakes are not easily fixed.
Pros: Lasts a long time
Cons: Can’t easily adjust the layout of the planting bed in future years
6.Recycled Rubber Edging
A few companies now make rubber edging that’s pounded into place. It’s nearly indestructible, as it’s usually made from recycled tires.
Pros: Lasts a lifetime
Cons: Doesn’t look great in formal or cottage gardens
7.Landscape Timber
If you’re handy with a saw, landscape timbers are a cost-effective method of edging. They're often pressure-treated to prevent rotting. You’ll need to level the ground and cut sections as needed.
Pros: Inexpensive and long-lasting
Cons: Cannot be used to create curved borders
8.Decorative Fence
Small sections of fence are super-easy for lining a garden perimeter. Many different types and sizes exist including metal, wood, and plastic, so you’ll find the one that suits your garden’s style.
Pros: Easy to place
Cons: Easily damaged, doesn't hold mulch in place
Installing garden edging also takes some effort! Get your tools together first, including gardening gloves, an edging shovel, garden spade, rake and kneeler pad.
Here are some of the best materials for edging your garden beds.
1.Paver Stones
Pavers made from concrete are nearly indestructible. But they're heavy to handle and time-consuming to install, so plan on a few days of heavy carrying and digging. You can make paths with pavers, or just use them for edging beds.
Pros: Lasts forever and very attractive
Cons: Time-consuming to install
2.Woven Willow
Also called "wattle," this natural edge is perfect for English or country gardens. It's used extensively in Europe.
Pros: Beautiful in the right setting
Cons: Easily damaged and pricey for large areas
3.Natural Rock
Rocks are available in an array of sizes, colors, and shapes, and creeping flowers look amazing tumbling over them! Simply line the edges of each bed, but opt for rocks that are the size of a soft ball or larger for the most visual impact. Visit a nursery or garden center for options.
Pros: Lasts forever
Cons: Takes time to fit them together in a pleasing way
4.Brick
Lay bricks in a shallow trench on their side with the wide side down, or stand them upright. The hardest part is getting everything level. Hint: Use a rubber mallet and line level on a string.
Pros: Lasts forever, relatively inexpensive
Cons: Labor-intensive to install
5.Poured Concrete
This is typically not a DIY job for newbies, as you must build a form, then mix and pour concrete into the mold. Consider hiring an expert, because mistakes are not easily fixed.
Pros: Lasts a long time
Cons: Can’t easily adjust the layout of the planting bed in future years
6.Recycled Rubber Edging
A few companies now make rubber edging that’s pounded into place. It’s nearly indestructible, as it’s usually made from recycled tires.
Pros: Lasts a lifetime
Cons: Doesn’t look great in formal or cottage gardens
7.Landscape Timber
If you’re handy with a saw, landscape timbers are a cost-effective method of edging. They're often pressure-treated to prevent rotting. You’ll need to level the ground and cut sections as needed.
Pros: Inexpensive and long-lasting
Cons: Cannot be used to create curved borders
8.Decorative Fence
Small sections of fence are super-easy for lining a garden perimeter. Many different types and sizes exist including metal, wood, and plastic, so you’ll find the one that suits your garden’s style.
Pros: Easy to place
Cons: Easily damaged, doesn't hold mulch in place
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文章
莹723
2021年02月08日
Even if your "garden" is a few pots on a balcony or patio, growing things is good for us! Besides adding zest to our cooking, many modern drugs, such as aspirin, are derived from plants. "Over time, we've found many plants are effective for nutrition, for adding spice to foods, and also for healing us,” says vice president for botanical science at the New York Botanical Garden, Michael Balick, PhD. “There’s also a positive mental health aspect to gardening.” More and more studies show that gardening can help you deal with anxiety and depression, manage weight, and control blood pressure. Plus, who doesn't need more fresh air and sunshine, especially these days?
The great thing about most herbs is that most do just as well in pots as in ground. Some healing plants are perennial, which means they'll return year after year. In many parts of the country, even the snowy North, you'll be able to harvest the hardier herbs for much of the year. Many are easy to dry or freeze so you can use them year-round in cooking.
1．Chamomile
Roman chamomile is a low-growing perennial, while German chamomile is an annual that can become two feet tall. Chamomile likes full sun to part shade and needs well-drained soils.
How to use: Both types are used interchangeably. When the flowers begin to open, harvest them and spread out to dry. Chop the dried flowers, add about one tablespoon per cup of hot water, and steep five minutes to make a tea to aid sleep or digestion. Or place the chopped flowers in a small muslin bag with a drawstring to make a tea bag. Bonus: Use this after it cools to soothe red, puffy eyes!
2．Mint
There are hundreds of varieties of mint, with flavors varying from peppermint to chocolate. Mint is one of the easiest herbs to grow. In fact, keep it in a pot or it will take over your garden! Make sure to plant in full sun (6 hours or more direct sun per day).
How to use: Mint relaxes the smooth muscles of the GI tract, so it’s long been used for digestive issues. When you have tummy trouble or feel nauseated, make a tea for sipping. Strip about a dozen leaves (peppermint and spearmint are especially good) and steep in one cup of boiling water until it takes on a yellowish hue.
3．Rosemary
Rosemary originates in the Mediterranean, so it needs full sun and prefers sandy or rocky soil. It’s drought tolerant and perennial in warmer climates. In cold climates, pot it up and bring it indoors for the winter, giving it tons of light.
How to use: Make a hair rinse (good for oily hair) by placing one teaspoon dried rosemary or a handful of fresh rosemary in a cup of boiling water; add one tablespoon lemon juice, and let steep for 10 minutes. Strain, let the infusion cool, and pour through freshly shampooed hair. Add it to dishes such as focaccia, sauces, and roasted meats.
4．Lavender
Lavender likes full sun in well-drained soil, but make sure you choose a variety that will thrive in your zone.
How to use: Harvest the leaves and flowers just as the flower spikes begin to open, chop them up and put them in a small sachet to tuck a few under your pillow to reduce anxiety and help you sleep better. It's also delicious in baked goods such as scones!
5.Lemon Balm
Lemon balm is very easy to grow in full sun and well-drained soil. Keep it in a container so it doesn’t spread rampantly throughout the garden.
How to use: Pour one cup boiling water over five or six fresh leaves. Steep for five minutes, strain and sweeten. Drink several times a day for an upset tummy.
6.Aloe Vera
Grow aloe vera indoors in bright light. Don’t keep it too wet because it retains moisture. It doesn't mind being overcrowded in the pot, so don't worry about repotting unless you want to make new baby plants.
How to use: Aloe vera is a great topical home remedy for skin irritation because compounds in the leaves have anti-inflammatory properties. Cut off the largest outermost leaves, peel and squeeze the gel-like substance onto minor burns or poison ivy or poison oak rashes.
7.Basil
Basil needs full sun and well-drained soil. Pinch off the flowers as soon as they begin to form to encourage branching and the growth of more leaves.
How to use: Basil has antiseptic and antibacterial properties. Crush a few leaves and apply to mosquito bites. Leave on for a few minutes to relieve itching. It's the star ingredient in many Mediterranean dishes including sauces, soups, and pesto. It also freezes well if you have an abundance (toss leaves in a blender with water or olive oil, blend until mostly smooth, then freeze in ice cube trays!).
8．Calendula
These pretty orange and yellow flowers, also known as French pot marigold, like full sun. It’s an annual that blooms from summer until frost, and it's not difficult to grow from seed.
How to use: Pick the flowers when they're fully opened, but not yet gone to seed. Pour one cup boiling water over two teaspoons of petals. Steep for 10 minutes, strain, and let cool. Use as a mouthwash or gargle to relieve inflammation.
9．Thyme
Thyme likes hot, dry conditions and soil that isn’t too rich. It’s incredibly easy to grow in full sun (it even tolerates some shade), and most varieties spread quickly.
How to use: Thyme’s antimicrobial activity may help relieve coughs and cold symptoms. Make a tea by pouring a cup of boiling water over a tablespoon of fresh leaves, and steep for 10 minutes. Drink several times a day. It's lovely in sauces and chicken dishes.
10．Sage
Sage needs full sun and well-drained soil. It’s a perennial in most climates.
How to use: Sage’s antimicrobial properties may relieve upper respiratory symptoms. Chop up about one teaspoon of the leaves and steep in a cup of boiling hot water for 10 minutes. Cool, and use as a gargle for sore throats. It's also delish in stuffing, chicken, and pork dishes.
The great thing about most herbs is that most do just as well in pots as in ground. Some healing plants are perennial, which means they'll return year after year. In many parts of the country, even the snowy North, you'll be able to harvest the hardier herbs for much of the year. Many are easy to dry or freeze so you can use them year-round in cooking.
1．Chamomile
Roman chamomile is a low-growing perennial, while German chamomile is an annual that can become two feet tall. Chamomile likes full sun to part shade and needs well-drained soils.
How to use: Both types are used interchangeably. When the flowers begin to open, harvest them and spread out to dry. Chop the dried flowers, add about one tablespoon per cup of hot water, and steep five minutes to make a tea to aid sleep or digestion. Or place the chopped flowers in a small muslin bag with a drawstring to make a tea bag. Bonus: Use this after it cools to soothe red, puffy eyes!
2．Mint
There are hundreds of varieties of mint, with flavors varying from peppermint to chocolate. Mint is one of the easiest herbs to grow. In fact, keep it in a pot or it will take over your garden! Make sure to plant in full sun (6 hours or more direct sun per day).
How to use: Mint relaxes the smooth muscles of the GI tract, so it’s long been used for digestive issues. When you have tummy trouble or feel nauseated, make a tea for sipping. Strip about a dozen leaves (peppermint and spearmint are especially good) and steep in one cup of boiling water until it takes on a yellowish hue.
3．Rosemary
Rosemary originates in the Mediterranean, so it needs full sun and prefers sandy or rocky soil. It’s drought tolerant and perennial in warmer climates. In cold climates, pot it up and bring it indoors for the winter, giving it tons of light.
How to use: Make a hair rinse (good for oily hair) by placing one teaspoon dried rosemary or a handful of fresh rosemary in a cup of boiling water; add one tablespoon lemon juice, and let steep for 10 minutes. Strain, let the infusion cool, and pour through freshly shampooed hair. Add it to dishes such as focaccia, sauces, and roasted meats.
4．Lavender
Lavender likes full sun in well-drained soil, but make sure you choose a variety that will thrive in your zone.
How to use: Harvest the leaves and flowers just as the flower spikes begin to open, chop them up and put them in a small sachet to tuck a few under your pillow to reduce anxiety and help you sleep better. It's also delicious in baked goods such as scones!
5.Lemon Balm
Lemon balm is very easy to grow in full sun and well-drained soil. Keep it in a container so it doesn’t spread rampantly throughout the garden.
How to use: Pour one cup boiling water over five or six fresh leaves. Steep for five minutes, strain and sweeten. Drink several times a day for an upset tummy.
6.Aloe Vera
Grow aloe vera indoors in bright light. Don’t keep it too wet because it retains moisture. It doesn't mind being overcrowded in the pot, so don't worry about repotting unless you want to make new baby plants.
How to use: Aloe vera is a great topical home remedy for skin irritation because compounds in the leaves have anti-inflammatory properties. Cut off the largest outermost leaves, peel and squeeze the gel-like substance onto minor burns or poison ivy or poison oak rashes.
7.Basil
Basil needs full sun and well-drained soil. Pinch off the flowers as soon as they begin to form to encourage branching and the growth of more leaves.
How to use: Basil has antiseptic and antibacterial properties. Crush a few leaves and apply to mosquito bites. Leave on for a few minutes to relieve itching. It's the star ingredient in many Mediterranean dishes including sauces, soups, and pesto. It also freezes well if you have an abundance (toss leaves in a blender with water or olive oil, blend until mostly smooth, then freeze in ice cube trays!).
8．Calendula
These pretty orange and yellow flowers, also known as French pot marigold, like full sun. It’s an annual that blooms from summer until frost, and it's not difficult to grow from seed.
How to use: Pick the flowers when they're fully opened, but not yet gone to seed. Pour one cup boiling water over two teaspoons of petals. Steep for 10 minutes, strain, and let cool. Use as a mouthwash or gargle to relieve inflammation.
9．Thyme
Thyme likes hot, dry conditions and soil that isn’t too rich. It’s incredibly easy to grow in full sun (it even tolerates some shade), and most varieties spread quickly.
How to use: Thyme’s antimicrobial activity may help relieve coughs and cold symptoms. Make a tea by pouring a cup of boiling water over a tablespoon of fresh leaves, and steep for 10 minutes. Drink several times a day. It's lovely in sauces and chicken dishes.
10．Sage
Sage needs full sun and well-drained soil. It’s a perennial in most climates.
How to use: Sage’s antimicrobial properties may relieve upper respiratory symptoms. Chop up about one teaspoon of the leaves and steep in a cup of boiling hot water for 10 minutes. Cool, and use as a gargle for sore throats. It's also delish in stuffing, chicken, and pork dishes.
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文章
莹723
2021年01月27日
Sowing seed is a simple and inexpensive way of growing new flowers and vegetables for your garden. You can start the growing year much earlier than if sowing outside. When growing salad and vegetable crops, it’s a good idea to sow a small amount of seed every two weeks, to ensure you have a long season of fresh produce to eat throughout summer. This is called ‘successional sowing’.
You don’t need a lot of kit to sow seeds. Many gardeners buy expensive propagators but a seed tray or a few plastic pots, will do the job. If you don’t have plastic pots then try using old yoghurt pots with holes punched in the bottom, or tomato or mushroom punnets instead of a seed tray. Any vessel that can hold compost and allow water to drain freely is suitable.
To maintain an even temperature and keep the soil moist, it’s a good idea to cover the soil with a clear piece of plastic. A bespoke propagator will come with its own clear plastic lid, but you can use cling film, old freezer bags or any clear plastic bag. Use cellotape or an elastic band to fix it to the pot.
Follow our step-by-step guide to sowing seed indoors, below.
You Will Need
• Seeds
• Multi-purpose, peat-free compost
• Seed trays or pots
• Plant labels
• Pencil or waterproof pen
• Watering can with rose attachment
• Polythene bag
• Sheet of glass, or a propagator
Step 1
Fill small pots or seed trays with compost. Use a watering can fitted with a fine rose to thoroughly wet the compost, and leave to drain.
Step 2
Sprinkle seeds evenly and thinly over the surface of the compost, leaving approx 2cm – 3cm between each one, if possible. Some seed is very small, making this impossible. Cover seeds with a thin layer of compost, about the same depth as the size of the seed (the smaller the seed, the thinner the layer of compost).
Step 3
Cover the pot with a clear polythene bag or piece of glass or clear plastic, to maintain an even temperature for germination, and keep the compost moist. Place the pot of seeds on a well-lit windowsill or in a heated propagator.
Step 4
Remove the plastic or glass cover as soon as the seeds have germinated and you can see the seedlings growing out of the compost. Grow them on in a warm place indoors – if growing them on a windowsill you may need to move them at night as temperatures can drop dramatically. The young plants will ready to be ‘pricked’ out when the second pair of leaves, known as ‘true’ leaves, emerges.
Step 5
When pricking out seedlings, handle them only by their leaves, not the stem. Fill a seed tray with compost and plant seedlings about 5cm apart, burying the seedling up to the base of the first set of leaves.
Step 6s
After a couple of weeks, the young plants will be large enough to pot individually into 7.5cm pots, or planted outside in well-prepared soil. Handle plants gently, firm compost around them and water well. Don’t allow the soil or compost to dry out.
You don’t need a lot of kit to sow seeds. Many gardeners buy expensive propagators but a seed tray or a few plastic pots, will do the job. If you don’t have plastic pots then try using old yoghurt pots with holes punched in the bottom, or tomato or mushroom punnets instead of a seed tray. Any vessel that can hold compost and allow water to drain freely is suitable.
To maintain an even temperature and keep the soil moist, it’s a good idea to cover the soil with a clear piece of plastic. A bespoke propagator will come with its own clear plastic lid, but you can use cling film, old freezer bags or any clear plastic bag. Use cellotape or an elastic band to fix it to the pot.
Follow our step-by-step guide to sowing seed indoors, below.
You Will Need
• Seeds
• Multi-purpose, peat-free compost
• Seed trays or pots
• Plant labels
• Pencil or waterproof pen
• Watering can with rose attachment
• Polythene bag
• Sheet of glass, or a propagator
Step 1
Fill small pots or seed trays with compost. Use a watering can fitted with a fine rose to thoroughly wet the compost, and leave to drain.
Step 2
Sprinkle seeds evenly and thinly over the surface of the compost, leaving approx 2cm – 3cm between each one, if possible. Some seed is very small, making this impossible. Cover seeds with a thin layer of compost, about the same depth as the size of the seed (the smaller the seed, the thinner the layer of compost).
Step 3
Cover the pot with a clear polythene bag or piece of glass or clear plastic, to maintain an even temperature for germination, and keep the compost moist. Place the pot of seeds on a well-lit windowsill or in a heated propagator.
Step 4
Remove the plastic or glass cover as soon as the seeds have germinated and you can see the seedlings growing out of the compost. Grow them on in a warm place indoors – if growing them on a windowsill you may need to move them at night as temperatures can drop dramatically. The young plants will ready to be ‘pricked’ out when the second pair of leaves, known as ‘true’ leaves, emerges.
Step 5
When pricking out seedlings, handle them only by their leaves, not the stem. Fill a seed tray with compost and plant seedlings about 5cm apart, burying the seedling up to the base of the first set of leaves.
Step 6s
After a couple of weeks, the young plants will be large enough to pot individually into 7.5cm pots, or planted outside in well-prepared soil. Handle plants gently, firm compost around them and water well. Don’t allow the soil or compost to dry out.
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文章
莹723
2021年01月13日
Nasturtium (Tropaeolum majus) is one of the easiest hardy annual flowers to grow, producing masses of vividly coloured blooms through summer and autumn. They’re perfect for growing with children. Nasturtiums come in both bushy and climbing varieties, which makes them splendidly versatile.
Some varieties have attractively marbled or mottled leaves. Nasturtiums not only look spectacular but the flowers, leaves and seeds are edible too. Bees love the colourful nasturtium blooms, and caterpillars of the large and small white butterflies feed on the leaves.
Being annuals, nasturtiums complete their lifecycle in one growing season.
——How to grow nasturtiums
Nasturtiums are ideal for lots of different sunny spots around the garden, including pots. Climbing varieties of nasturtium can be trained up vertical supports and are great to twine through other plants too.
Nasturtiums that are climbers can also be used as trailers – to spread across gravel or cascade down a slope or bank. Free-draining soil is essential for nasturtiums and, unlike many other flowers, they thrive on poor soils.
——Where to grow nasturtiums
Nasturtiums must have sun for at least half the day in order to grow well and do best in sites sheltered from winds. A free-draining soil is essential, and nasturtiums flower best in poor soils (that are low in fertility) as a fertile soil results in lots of leafy growth at the expense of flowers. Hence there’s no need to add fertilizer before sowing.
Nasturtiums do well in gravelly or stony ground or growing on banks. In containers, mix two-thirds peat-free multi-purpose compost with one third fine gravel or grit, to reduce fertility and ensure good drainage.
——How to plant nasturtiums
For best results, sow nasturtium directly where they are to flower, as they’re fast-growing and there’s no need to bother about transplanting. Sow the seed 1.5 cm deep into moist soil to speed germination, so water before planting if conditions are dry.
The first seeds can be sown in mid-spring and you can carry on sowing until mid-summer to ensure flowers right up to the first frosts. Thin the seedlings to 30 cm apart.
However, sowing in pot also works – simply sow one seed per pot and transplant outside when all risk of frost has passed.
——How to care for nasturtiums
Nasturtiums are easy-care and need little maintenance. Plants growing in containers should be watered to keep the compost evenly moist, but not fed. Removing the dead flower heads of nasturtiums will encourage more blooms to be produced for a longer period.
——How to propagate nasturtiums
Nasturtium seeds can be collected when ripe and saved to sow next year. In mild areas, nasturtiums are also likely to self-sow, so you may get seedlings springing up in future years. These can be easily pulled up if not wanted.
——How to harvest and use nasturtiums
Nasturtium leaves, flowers and seeds are all edible. The flowers make a brightly coloured garnish to salads and other uncooked dishes. Nasturtium leaves have a peppery taste and should be picked when young to incorporate in salads. Nasturtium seeds can be used as a substitute for capers and should be picked when mature but still green, for pickling in vinegar.
——Growing nasturtiums: problem solving
Nasturtiums are likely to attract large and small white butterflies (known as cabbage white butterflies) which lay their large greenish eggs on the leaf undersides, which hatch into caterpillars that eat the leaves. This can be useful to deter caterpillars from eating brassica crops but not desirable if you’re growing nasturtiums for flowers. The best method of control is to inspect plants regularly and squash the eggs or young caterpillars, or move them on to plants you don’t mind being eaten.
Nasturtiums are also attractive to aphids, particularly blackfly. By planting nasturtiums alongside bean crops you can lure aphids away from your crop, but you may not appreciate aphids on nasturtiums you’re growing for leaves and flowers. Spray them off with a jet of water or let ladybirds, hoverflies and lacewings remove them for you – all three lay their eggs on aphid colonies and their young quickly eat them up.
——Nasturtium varieties to grow
Choose from mixed flower colours or opt for individually coloured varieties to create coordinated planted schemes.
• Nasturtium ‘Alaska’ – flowers in yellow, orange and red are shown off against cream and green marbled leaves. Bushy, 30 cm high.
• Nasturtium ‘Empress of India’ – crimson-red flowers and dark reddish leaves. 25 cm high.
• Nasturtium ‘Milkmaid’ – Creamy-white flowers on climbing/trailing stems. 180 cm high.
• Nasturtium ‘Paintbox Mixed’ – a mix of brightly coloured flowers that are more upward facing and hence visible than most. 30 cm high.
• Nasturtium ‘Salmon Baby’. Bright salmon pink flowers. 30 cm high.
• Nasturtium ‘Tip Top Velvet’. Dark red blooms that show off well against fresh green foliage. 30 cm high.
• Nasturtium ‘Trailing Mixed’, ‘Tall Mixed’. Masses of orange, yellow and red blooms on long stems that can climb or trail. 180 cm high.
Some varieties have attractively marbled or mottled leaves. Nasturtiums not only look spectacular but the flowers, leaves and seeds are edible too. Bees love the colourful nasturtium blooms, and caterpillars of the large and small white butterflies feed on the leaves.
Being annuals, nasturtiums complete their lifecycle in one growing season.
——How to grow nasturtiums
Nasturtiums are ideal for lots of different sunny spots around the garden, including pots. Climbing varieties of nasturtium can be trained up vertical supports and are great to twine through other plants too.
Nasturtiums that are climbers can also be used as trailers – to spread across gravel or cascade down a slope or bank. Free-draining soil is essential for nasturtiums and, unlike many other flowers, they thrive on poor soils.
——Where to grow nasturtiums
Nasturtiums must have sun for at least half the day in order to grow well and do best in sites sheltered from winds. A free-draining soil is essential, and nasturtiums flower best in poor soils (that are low in fertility) as a fertile soil results in lots of leafy growth at the expense of flowers. Hence there’s no need to add fertilizer before sowing.
Nasturtiums do well in gravelly or stony ground or growing on banks. In containers, mix two-thirds peat-free multi-purpose compost with one third fine gravel or grit, to reduce fertility and ensure good drainage.
——How to plant nasturtiums
For best results, sow nasturtium directly where they are to flower, as they’re fast-growing and there’s no need to bother about transplanting. Sow the seed 1.5 cm deep into moist soil to speed germination, so water before planting if conditions are dry.
The first seeds can be sown in mid-spring and you can carry on sowing until mid-summer to ensure flowers right up to the first frosts. Thin the seedlings to 30 cm apart.
However, sowing in pot also works – simply sow one seed per pot and transplant outside when all risk of frost has passed.
——How to care for nasturtiums
Nasturtiums are easy-care and need little maintenance. Plants growing in containers should be watered to keep the compost evenly moist, but not fed. Removing the dead flower heads of nasturtiums will encourage more blooms to be produced for a longer period.
——How to propagate nasturtiums
Nasturtium seeds can be collected when ripe and saved to sow next year. In mild areas, nasturtiums are also likely to self-sow, so you may get seedlings springing up in future years. These can be easily pulled up if not wanted.
——How to harvest and use nasturtiums
Nasturtium leaves, flowers and seeds are all edible. The flowers make a brightly coloured garnish to salads and other uncooked dishes. Nasturtium leaves have a peppery taste and should be picked when young to incorporate in salads. Nasturtium seeds can be used as a substitute for capers and should be picked when mature but still green, for pickling in vinegar.
——Growing nasturtiums: problem solving
Nasturtiums are likely to attract large and small white butterflies (known as cabbage white butterflies) which lay their large greenish eggs on the leaf undersides, which hatch into caterpillars that eat the leaves. This can be useful to deter caterpillars from eating brassica crops but not desirable if you’re growing nasturtiums for flowers. The best method of control is to inspect plants regularly and squash the eggs or young caterpillars, or move them on to plants you don’t mind being eaten.
Nasturtiums are also attractive to aphids, particularly blackfly. By planting nasturtiums alongside bean crops you can lure aphids away from your crop, but you may not appreciate aphids on nasturtiums you’re growing for leaves and flowers. Spray them off with a jet of water or let ladybirds, hoverflies and lacewings remove them for you – all three lay their eggs on aphid colonies and their young quickly eat them up.
——Nasturtium varieties to grow
Choose from mixed flower colours or opt for individually coloured varieties to create coordinated planted schemes.
• Nasturtium ‘Alaska’ – flowers in yellow, orange and red are shown off against cream and green marbled leaves. Bushy, 30 cm high.
• Nasturtium ‘Empress of India’ – crimson-red flowers and dark reddish leaves. 25 cm high.
• Nasturtium ‘Milkmaid’ – Creamy-white flowers on climbing/trailing stems. 180 cm high.
• Nasturtium ‘Paintbox Mixed’ – a mix of brightly coloured flowers that are more upward facing and hence visible than most. 30 cm high.
• Nasturtium ‘Salmon Baby’. Bright salmon pink flowers. 30 cm high.
• Nasturtium ‘Tip Top Velvet’. Dark red blooms that show off well against fresh green foliage. 30 cm high.
• Nasturtium ‘Trailing Mixed’, ‘Tall Mixed’. Masses of orange, yellow and red blooms on long stems that can climb or trail. 180 cm high.
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文章
莹723
2020年11月04日
Bottle gardens, or terrariums, are enjoying a revival, and they’re easy to create.The key is to combine small plants that thrive in similar growing conditions – usually either damp shade or drought.
You can plant a bottle garden in virtually any glass vessel, though closed ones are best for moisture lovers and open ones best for plants used to drier conditions. Don’t worry if you can’t find what we used – look in charity shops, garden centres, your kitchen cupboard or on the internet for something that appeals.
You Will Need
•Vintage glass bottle
•Horticultural grit
•Peat free houseplant compost
•Moss, (from the lawn)
•Spathiphyllum 'Chopin'
•Fittonia verschaffeltii
•Syngonium 'White Butterfly'
•Chlorophytum comosum 'Ocean'
•Peperomia rotundifolia
Total time:
20 minutes
Step 1
Put 5cm of horticultural grit in the bottom of the bottle for drainage. Add houseplant compost till the bottle is about a third full – breaking up any lumps with your hands. Choose lush foliage plants that thrive in low light and humidity.
Step 2
Position the plants one at a time, planting them as you would in a container – firm the compost around them. Fill gaps between plants with a layer of moss.
Step 3
Water sparingly down the sides of the bottle as the curved sides will prevent a lot of evaporation. Ensure the compost doesn’t dry out or become saturated with water. Place in a bright spot out of direct sunlight.
Alternative plants for a bottle garden
• Maidenhair fern (Adiantum raddianum)
• Golden polypody (Phlebodium aureum)
• Hares foot fern (Humata tyermannii)
• Mind-your-own-business (Soleirolia soleirolii)
• Centella (Centella asiatica)
• Cacti and succulents
You can plant a bottle garden in virtually any glass vessel, though closed ones are best for moisture lovers and open ones best for plants used to drier conditions. Don’t worry if you can’t find what we used – look in charity shops, garden centres, your kitchen cupboard or on the internet for something that appeals.
You Will Need
•Vintage glass bottle
•Horticultural grit
•Peat free houseplant compost
•Moss, (from the lawn)
•Spathiphyllum 'Chopin'
•Fittonia verschaffeltii
•Syngonium 'White Butterfly'
•Chlorophytum comosum 'Ocean'
•Peperomia rotundifolia
Total time:
20 minutes
Step 1
Put 5cm of horticultural grit in the bottom of the bottle for drainage. Add houseplant compost till the bottle is about a third full – breaking up any lumps with your hands. Choose lush foliage plants that thrive in low light and humidity.
Step 2
Position the plants one at a time, planting them as you would in a container – firm the compost around them. Fill gaps between plants with a layer of moss.
Step 3
Water sparingly down the sides of the bottle as the curved sides will prevent a lot of evaporation. Ensure the compost doesn’t dry out or become saturated with water. Place in a bright spot out of direct sunlight.
Alternative plants for a bottle garden
• Maidenhair fern (Adiantum raddianum)
• Golden polypody (Phlebodium aureum)
• Hares foot fern (Humata tyermannii)
• Mind-your-own-business (Soleirolia soleirolii)
• Centella (Centella asiatica)
• Cacti and succulents
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文章
ritau
2020年08月16日
1. Choose a lettuce variety that thrives indoors. Although most lettuce plants can stay healthy indoors, you'll have better success with some varieties over others. Buy any of these lettuce varieties, which are known for growing well inside, from a garden center or plant nursery:
-Garden Babies
-Merlot
-Baby Oakleaf
-Salad Bowl
-Lollo Rosa
-Black-Seeded Simpson
-Tom Thumb
-Red Deer Tongue
2. Fill a pot with a seed starting soil mix. Seed starting mixes are lightweight, they help your plants’ roots grow, and they're well-draining to prevent overwatering. If you cannot find a seed starting mix, you can also create a soil made from equal parts peat moss or coir, vermiculite, and sand.
-Each lettuce plant requires 4–6 in (10–15 cm) of space and a depth of about 8 inches (20 cm). Choose a pot that can accommodate these measurements.
-Purchase pots with drainage holes on the bottom. Place a saucer underneath the pot to catch draining water.
-You can buy seed starting soil mixes from most plant nurseries or garden centers.
3. Plant your seeds approximately 1 in (2.5 cm) apart. Dig a 4–6 in (10–15 cm) deep hole and place your seeds inside at about 1 in (2.5 cm) apart. Limit your seeds to 4 per pot to avoid overcrowding the lettuce as it grows. If you want to plant more than 4 seeds, prepare several pots ahead of time.
4. Sprinkle your seeds lightly with potting soil and water. Take a handful of potting soil and gently sprinkle it over the newly-planted seeds. Fill a spray bottle with water and gently mist the seeds to avoid washing them away.
5. Plant lettuce seedlings if you don't want to wait for seeds to sprout. If you don't want to wait for seeds to sprout, you can plant lettuce seedlings instead. Use the same technique as you would for lettuce seedlings, planting no more than 4 per pot.
-You can buy lettuce seedlings at many plant nurseries or garden centers
6. Mist your seeds daily until they sprout into seedlings. When they sprout, give your lettuce at least 1 in (2.5 cm) of water per week. Poke your finger in the soil once or twice a day and water your lettuce whenever the soil feels dry.
-The soil should be moist but not waterlogged.
-Another way to test the moisture level of soil is lifting up the pot. If it feels heavy, the soil is saturated with water.
7. Grow your lettuce in room temperature conditions. Lettuce grows best at temperatures around 65–70 °F (18–21 °C). Turn on the air conditioner or heater as needed to keep your plants at an even, sustainable temperature.
-If the weather is warm or cool enough outside, you can move your plants outdoors periodically to get fresh air.
8. Place your lettuce plant near a sunny window or a fluorescent grow light. Lettuce plants grow best with direct sunlight. If you're in a climate with very little sun, purchase a grow light from a plant nursery and position it about 12 inches (30 cm) overhead.
Lettuce plants need at least 12 hours of direct sunlight a day, with 14-16 hours the preferred amount.
Keep in mind that plants grown under a grow light generally need more time under the light than they would with natural sunlight. Aim closer to 14-16 hours instead of 12+ hours if you're using a grow light.
9. Water your lettuce whenever the leaves wilt. Lettuce plant leaves visibly wilt when they are thirsty. If your plant's leaves droop, water the lettuce until its soil is moist, but not soaking wet or waterlogged.
-The hotter the temperatures, the more often you will need to water your lettuce
10. Fertilize your lettuce 3 weeks after planting it. Lettuce needs nitrogen-rich soil to grow, so spray a liquid fertilizer on the plant 3 weeks after you planted it, or when the first leaves grow on the plant. Spray the fertilizer mainly near the soil, avoiding the lettuce leaves to prevent burning them.
-Use a liquid fertilizer. Granular fertilizers need to be mixed into the soil.
-Organic alfalfa meal or a nitrogen-rich, slow-release fertilizer both work well with lettuce.
-You can also use fish or seaweed emulsion fertilizers but they can emit a strong odor and are less recommended for indoor lettuce plants
11. Begin harvesting your lettuce 30-45 days after planting. On average, lettuce takes about 30-45 days after you plant the seeds to mature. Make a note on your calendar to begin harvesting after about 30 days has passed.
-Indoor lettuce plants grow and mature continually, so you can continue harvesting your plant after you've picked it for the first time.
-Mature indoor lettuce usually grows to about 4 inches (10 cm) tall.
-See How to Harvest Romaine Lettuce for specific instructions relating to this type of lettuce.
12. Harvest your lettuce in the morning. Morning is when your plant's most hydrated and at its strongest. If possible, harvest your plant before the late morning or afternoon to attain a healthier yield.
-If you can't harvest in the morning, avoid mid-to-late afternoon, which is when your plant's least hydrated.
13. Cut off the outer leaves. Do not harvest your indoor lettuce plant all at once. As long as you continue taking care of it, you can harvest it for several months. Cut 3-4 of the outer leaves at a time with garden shears or scissors, leaving the rest of the plant to heal and grow back later on.
-Avoid picking the lettuce's crown or center. Limit yourself to the outer leaves to boost its overall harvesting yield.
14. Refrigerate your lettuce for 5-8 days after harvesting. Depending on the variety, lettuce can last anywhere between 3-10 days in the refrigerator. Check how long your specific variety lasts for and, after placing the lettuce in the fridge, plan to use it by its expiration date.
-If you don't think you'll use your lettuce in 5-8 days, wait a few days before harvesting your plant.
15. Harvest your lettuce again in about 2 weeks. Your plant requires about 2 weeks to heal and grow more leaves before it is ready to harvest again. After your first time harvesting, wait 2 weeks in-between harvesting to keep your plant healthy and able to grow more leaves.
-Wait at least 2 weeks before harvesting young plants, which may take time to grow strong after being harvested.
-Sow additional seeds every 2 weeks to extend your harvest.
-Garden Babies
-Merlot
-Baby Oakleaf
-Salad Bowl
-Lollo Rosa
-Black-Seeded Simpson
-Tom Thumb
-Red Deer Tongue
2. Fill a pot with a seed starting soil mix. Seed starting mixes are lightweight, they help your plants’ roots grow, and they're well-draining to prevent overwatering. If you cannot find a seed starting mix, you can also create a soil made from equal parts peat moss or coir, vermiculite, and sand.
-Each lettuce plant requires 4–6 in (10–15 cm) of space and a depth of about 8 inches (20 cm). Choose a pot that can accommodate these measurements.
-Purchase pots with drainage holes on the bottom. Place a saucer underneath the pot to catch draining water.
-You can buy seed starting soil mixes from most plant nurseries or garden centers.
3. Plant your seeds approximately 1 in (2.5 cm) apart. Dig a 4–6 in (10–15 cm) deep hole and place your seeds inside at about 1 in (2.5 cm) apart. Limit your seeds to 4 per pot to avoid overcrowding the lettuce as it grows. If you want to plant more than 4 seeds, prepare several pots ahead of time.
4. Sprinkle your seeds lightly with potting soil and water. Take a handful of potting soil and gently sprinkle it over the newly-planted seeds. Fill a spray bottle with water and gently mist the seeds to avoid washing them away.
5. Plant lettuce seedlings if you don't want to wait for seeds to sprout. If you don't want to wait for seeds to sprout, you can plant lettuce seedlings instead. Use the same technique as you would for lettuce seedlings, planting no more than 4 per pot.
-You can buy lettuce seedlings at many plant nurseries or garden centers
6. Mist your seeds daily until they sprout into seedlings. When they sprout, give your lettuce at least 1 in (2.5 cm) of water per week. Poke your finger in the soil once or twice a day and water your lettuce whenever the soil feels dry.
-The soil should be moist but not waterlogged.
-Another way to test the moisture level of soil is lifting up the pot. If it feels heavy, the soil is saturated with water.
7. Grow your lettuce in room temperature conditions. Lettuce grows best at temperatures around 65–70 °F (18–21 °C). Turn on the air conditioner or heater as needed to keep your plants at an even, sustainable temperature.
-If the weather is warm or cool enough outside, you can move your plants outdoors periodically to get fresh air.
8. Place your lettuce plant near a sunny window or a fluorescent grow light. Lettuce plants grow best with direct sunlight. If you're in a climate with very little sun, purchase a grow light from a plant nursery and position it about 12 inches (30 cm) overhead.
Lettuce plants need at least 12 hours of direct sunlight a day, with 14-16 hours the preferred amount.
Keep in mind that plants grown under a grow light generally need more time under the light than they would with natural sunlight. Aim closer to 14-16 hours instead of 12+ hours if you're using a grow light.
9. Water your lettuce whenever the leaves wilt. Lettuce plant leaves visibly wilt when they are thirsty. If your plant's leaves droop, water the lettuce until its soil is moist, but not soaking wet or waterlogged.
-The hotter the temperatures, the more often you will need to water your lettuce
10. Fertilize your lettuce 3 weeks after planting it. Lettuce needs nitrogen-rich soil to grow, so spray a liquid fertilizer on the plant 3 weeks after you planted it, or when the first leaves grow on the plant. Spray the fertilizer mainly near the soil, avoiding the lettuce leaves to prevent burning them.
-Use a liquid fertilizer. Granular fertilizers need to be mixed into the soil.
-Organic alfalfa meal or a nitrogen-rich, slow-release fertilizer both work well with lettuce.
-You can also use fish or seaweed emulsion fertilizers but they can emit a strong odor and are less recommended for indoor lettuce plants
11. Begin harvesting your lettuce 30-45 days after planting. On average, lettuce takes about 30-45 days after you plant the seeds to mature. Make a note on your calendar to begin harvesting after about 30 days has passed.
-Indoor lettuce plants grow and mature continually, so you can continue harvesting your plant after you've picked it for the first time.
-Mature indoor lettuce usually grows to about 4 inches (10 cm) tall.
-See How to Harvest Romaine Lettuce for specific instructions relating to this type of lettuce.
12. Harvest your lettuce in the morning. Morning is when your plant's most hydrated and at its strongest. If possible, harvest your plant before the late morning or afternoon to attain a healthier yield.
-If you can't harvest in the morning, avoid mid-to-late afternoon, which is when your plant's least hydrated.
13. Cut off the outer leaves. Do not harvest your indoor lettuce plant all at once. As long as you continue taking care of it, you can harvest it for several months. Cut 3-4 of the outer leaves at a time with garden shears or scissors, leaving the rest of the plant to heal and grow back later on.
-Avoid picking the lettuce's crown or center. Limit yourself to the outer leaves to boost its overall harvesting yield.
14. Refrigerate your lettuce for 5-8 days after harvesting. Depending on the variety, lettuce can last anywhere between 3-10 days in the refrigerator. Check how long your specific variety lasts for and, after placing the lettuce in the fridge, plan to use it by its expiration date.
-If you don't think you'll use your lettuce in 5-8 days, wait a few days before harvesting your plant.
15. Harvest your lettuce again in about 2 weeks. Your plant requires about 2 weeks to heal and grow more leaves before it is ready to harvest again. After your first time harvesting, wait 2 weeks in-between harvesting to keep your plant healthy and able to grow more leaves.
-Wait at least 2 weeks before harvesting young plants, which may take time to grow strong after being harvested.
-Sow additional seeds every 2 weeks to extend your harvest.
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文章
ritau
2020年07月27日
1. Obtain coffee grounds. Growing mushrooms from coffee grounds is a fun project which helps to use up coffee grounds that would otherwise go to waste. Coffee grounds are a fantastic growing medium for mushrooms (oyster mushrooms in particular) as they are already sterilized thanks to the coffee brewing process and are full of nutrients.
For 500 g (17.6 oz) of mushroom spawn, you will need 2.5 kg (88 oz) of fresh coffee grounds. The best way to get this amount of fresh coffee grounds (brewed that day) is to go to a cafe and ask nicely. They're usually more than happy to give it away.
2. Find a container for the mushrooms. The best thing to use is a filter patch grow bag, which can usually be purchased along with the mushroom spawn. Otherwise you can use a large, sealable freezer bag or a sterilized milk carton or ice cream tub, with four small holes poked into the sides.
3. Transfer the spawn into the container. Wash your hands thoroughly with anti-bacterial soap, then mix the mushroom spawn into the coffee grounds, breaking them up with your hands to ensure that they are evenly distributed. Place the inoculated coffee grinds into the plastic bag or container and seal tightly.
4. Put the mushrooms in the right environment. Place the bag or container in a warm, dark location, somewhere between 64 and 77°F (18 to 25°C), like in an airing cupboard or under the sink. Leave it here for two to four weeks or until it turns entirely white — this due to the mycelia colonizing the coffee grinds.
-Again, cut out any dark spots of green or brown that develop on the colonizing substrate, as this can make you sick.
5. Relocate the mushrooms. Once the bag or container's contents have turned completely white, move it to a bright area (but not into direct sunlight) and cut a 2" by 2" hole at the top. Mist the contents of the container with water twice daily to prevent it from drying out — the mushrooms won't grow in too-dry conditions.
6. Harvest the mushrooms. Over the next five to seven days, tiny mushrooms will begin to sprout. Continue to mist them with water and they should double in size each day. When the cups of the mushrooms have started to turn slightly upwards, they are ready to harvest.
When the mushrooms have stopped sprouting, plant the coffee grinds outdoors under bark mulch or compost and new mushrooms may develop, depending on the weather.
For 500 g (17.6 oz) of mushroom spawn, you will need 2.5 kg (88 oz) of fresh coffee grounds. The best way to get this amount of fresh coffee grounds (brewed that day) is to go to a cafe and ask nicely. They're usually more than happy to give it away.
2. Find a container for the mushrooms. The best thing to use is a filter patch grow bag, which can usually be purchased along with the mushroom spawn. Otherwise you can use a large, sealable freezer bag or a sterilized milk carton or ice cream tub, with four small holes poked into the sides.
3. Transfer the spawn into the container. Wash your hands thoroughly with anti-bacterial soap, then mix the mushroom spawn into the coffee grounds, breaking them up with your hands to ensure that they are evenly distributed. Place the inoculated coffee grinds into the plastic bag or container and seal tightly.
4. Put the mushrooms in the right environment. Place the bag or container in a warm, dark location, somewhere between 64 and 77°F (18 to 25°C), like in an airing cupboard or under the sink. Leave it here for two to four weeks or until it turns entirely white — this due to the mycelia colonizing the coffee grinds.
-Again, cut out any dark spots of green or brown that develop on the colonizing substrate, as this can make you sick.
5. Relocate the mushrooms. Once the bag or container's contents have turned completely white, move it to a bright area (but not into direct sunlight) and cut a 2" by 2" hole at the top. Mist the contents of the container with water twice daily to prevent it from drying out — the mushrooms won't grow in too-dry conditions.
6. Harvest the mushrooms. Over the next five to seven days, tiny mushrooms will begin to sprout. Continue to mist them with water and they should double in size each day. When the cups of the mushrooms have started to turn slightly upwards, they are ready to harvest.
When the mushrooms have stopped sprouting, plant the coffee grinds outdoors under bark mulch or compost and new mushrooms may develop, depending on the weather.
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文章
ritau
2020年05月28日
Fasciation (from the Latin root meaning "band" or "stripe"), also known as cresting, is a relatively rare condition of abnormal growth in vascular plants in which the apical meristem (growing tip), which normally is concentrated around a single point and produces approximately cylindrical tissue, instead becomes elongated perpendicularly to the direction of growth, thus producing flattened, ribbon-like, crested (or "cristate"), or elaborately contorted, tissue. Fasciation may also cause plant parts to increase in weight and volume in some instances.The phenomenon may occur in the stem, root, fruit, or flower head. Some plants are grown and prized aesthetically for their development of fasciation. Any occurrence of fasciation has several possible causes, including hormonal, genetic, bacterial, fungal, viral and environmental causes.
Although fasciation is rare overall, it has been observed in over 100 plant species, including members of the genera Acer, Aloe, Acanthosicyos, Cannabis, Celosia, Cycas, Delphinium, Digitalis, Euphorbia, Forsythia, Glycine max (specifically, soybean plants), Primula, Prunus, Salix and many genera of the cactus family, Cactaceae. Cresting results in undulating folds instead of the typical "arms" found on mature saguaro cactus.
Some varieties of Celosia are raised especially for their dependably fasciated flower heads, for which they are called "cockscomb". The Japanese fantail willow (Salix sachalinensis 'Sekka') is another plant that is valued for its fasciations.
Fasciation that is caused by damage to genetic material and by bacteria can be controlled by not using fasciated plants and disposing of fasciated plants. Avoiding injury to plant bases and keeping them dry can reduce the spread of bacteria. Avoidance of grafting fasciated plants and the pruning of fasciated matter can also reduce the spread of bacteria.
Although fasciation is rare overall, it has been observed in over 100 plant species, including members of the genera Acer, Aloe, Acanthosicyos, Cannabis, Celosia, Cycas, Delphinium, Digitalis, Euphorbia, Forsythia, Glycine max (specifically, soybean plants), Primula, Prunus, Salix and many genera of the cactus family, Cactaceae. Cresting results in undulating folds instead of the typical "arms" found on mature saguaro cactus.
Some varieties of Celosia are raised especially for their dependably fasciated flower heads, for which they are called "cockscomb". The Japanese fantail willow (Salix sachalinensis 'Sekka') is another plant that is valued for its fasciations.
Fasciation that is caused by damage to genetic material and by bacteria can be controlled by not using fasciated plants and disposing of fasciated plants. Avoiding injury to plant bases and keeping them dry can reduce the spread of bacteria. Avoidance of grafting fasciated plants and the pruning of fasciated matter can also reduce the spread of bacteria.
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