文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月15日
Common on many plants and easily recognized, powdery mildew is a fungal disease found throughout the United States. It is caused by a variety of closely related fungal species, each with a limited host range. (The fungi attacking your roses are unlikely to spread to your lilacs). Low soil moisture combined with high humidity levels at the plant surface favors this disease.
Symptoms usually appear later in the growing season on outdoor plants. Powdery mildew starts on young leaves as raised blister-like areas that cause leaves to curl, exposing the lower leaf surface. Infected leaves become covered with a white to gray powdery growth, usually on the upper surface; unopened flower buds may be white with mildew and may never open. Leaves of severely infected plants turn brown and drop. The disease prefers young, succulent growth; mature leaves are usually not affected.
Fungal spores overwinter inside leaf buds and other plant debris. Wind, water and insects transmit the spores to other nearby plants. Zucchini, beans, cucumbers, squash, pumpkins, tomatoes, roses and zinnia are especially susceptible.
Treatment
Plant resistant cultivars in sunny locations whenever possible.
Prune or stake plants to improve air circulation. Make sure to disinfect your pruning tools (one part bleach to 4 parts water) after each cut.
Remove diseased foliage from the plant and clean up fallen debris on the ground.
Use a thick layer of mulch or organic compost to cover the soil after you have raked and cleaned it well. Mulch will prevent the disease spores from splashing back up onto the leaves.
Wash foliage occasionally to disrupt the daily spore-releasing cycle. Neem oil and PM Wash, used on a 7 day schedule, will prevent fungal attack on plants grown indoors.
Water in the morning, so plants have a chance to dry during the day. Drip irrigation and soaker hoses will help keep the foliage dry.
Use a slow-release, organic fertilizer on crops and avoid excess nitrogen. Soft, leafy, new growth is most susceptible.
Destroy all plant debris after harvest (see Fall Garden Cleanup). Do NOT compost.
If disease symptoms are observed, treat plants with one of the following approved organic fungicides:
Apply sulfur or copper-based fungicides to prevent infection of susceptible plants. For best results, apply early or at first sign of disease. Spray all plant parts thoroughly and repeat at 7-10 day intervals up to the day of harvest.
Green Cure Fungicide contains a patented formula of potassium bicarbonate — commonly used in food products — that kills many plant diseases on contact and provides up to 2 weeks of residual protection. At first sign of disease, mix 1-2 Tbsp/ gallon of water and apply to all exposed surfaces of the plant. Monterey® BI-CARB is a similar product containing micro-encapsulated potassium bicarbonate as the active ingredient. Mix 4 tsps in 2 gallons of water to thoroughly cover foliage.
Effectively treat fungal diseases with SERENADE Garden. This broad spectrum bio-fungicide uses a patented strain of Bacillus subtilis that is approved for organic gardening. Best of all, it’s safe to use — you can treat and pick crops the same day!
SNS 244 and Zero Tolerance Herbal Fungicide are made from 100% pure, food-grade ingredients that work fast to kill existing plant diseases and prevent new fungal problems from starting.
Indoor growers may want to consider using a Sulfur Burner/ Vaporizer which turns sulfur prills into a fine dust and changes the pH of leaf surfaces. Fungal spores and mold can’t get established on this plant coating. As an added benefit, studies have shown that this dust will eliminate spider mites.
Symptoms usually appear later in the growing season on outdoor plants. Powdery mildew starts on young leaves as raised blister-like areas that cause leaves to curl, exposing the lower leaf surface. Infected leaves become covered with a white to gray powdery growth, usually on the upper surface; unopened flower buds may be white with mildew and may never open. Leaves of severely infected plants turn brown and drop. The disease prefers young, succulent growth; mature leaves are usually not affected.
Fungal spores overwinter inside leaf buds and other plant debris. Wind, water and insects transmit the spores to other nearby plants. Zucchini, beans, cucumbers, squash, pumpkins, tomatoes, roses and zinnia are especially susceptible.
Treatment
Plant resistant cultivars in sunny locations whenever possible.
Prune or stake plants to improve air circulation. Make sure to disinfect your pruning tools (one part bleach to 4 parts water) after each cut.
Remove diseased foliage from the plant and clean up fallen debris on the ground.
Use a thick layer of mulch or organic compost to cover the soil after you have raked and cleaned it well. Mulch will prevent the disease spores from splashing back up onto the leaves.
Wash foliage occasionally to disrupt the daily spore-releasing cycle. Neem oil and PM Wash, used on a 7 day schedule, will prevent fungal attack on plants grown indoors.
Water in the morning, so plants have a chance to dry during the day. Drip irrigation and soaker hoses will help keep the foliage dry.
Use a slow-release, organic fertilizer on crops and avoid excess nitrogen. Soft, leafy, new growth is most susceptible.
Destroy all plant debris after harvest (see Fall Garden Cleanup). Do NOT compost.
If disease symptoms are observed, treat plants with one of the following approved organic fungicides:
Apply sulfur or copper-based fungicides to prevent infection of susceptible plants. For best results, apply early or at first sign of disease. Spray all plant parts thoroughly and repeat at 7-10 day intervals up to the day of harvest.
Green Cure Fungicide contains a patented formula of potassium bicarbonate — commonly used in food products — that kills many plant diseases on contact and provides up to 2 weeks of residual protection. At first sign of disease, mix 1-2 Tbsp/ gallon of water and apply to all exposed surfaces of the plant. Monterey® BI-CARB is a similar product containing micro-encapsulated potassium bicarbonate as the active ingredient. Mix 4 tsps in 2 gallons of water to thoroughly cover foliage.
Effectively treat fungal diseases with SERENADE Garden. This broad spectrum bio-fungicide uses a patented strain of Bacillus subtilis that is approved for organic gardening. Best of all, it’s safe to use — you can treat and pick crops the same day!
SNS 244 and Zero Tolerance Herbal Fungicide are made from 100% pure, food-grade ingredients that work fast to kill existing plant diseases and prevent new fungal problems from starting.
Indoor growers may want to consider using a Sulfur Burner/ Vaporizer which turns sulfur prills into a fine dust and changes the pH of leaf surfaces. Fungal spores and mold can’t get established on this plant coating. As an added benefit, studies have shown that this dust will eliminate spider mites.
0
0
文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月15日
Affecting a wide variety of horticultural and vegetable crops — roses, beans, tobacco, tomatoes, potatoes, cucumbers and peppers — mosaic is a viral diseases found throughout the United States.
Plant viruses can be difficult to detect as symptoms look similar to many nutrient deficiencies and vary depending on the age of the plant when infection occurs. Look for:
Yellow, white or green stripes/ streaks/ spots on foliage
Wrinkled, curled or small leaves
Pronounced yellowing only of veins
Stunted growth and reduced yields
Infected fruit appears mottled and develops raised “warty” areas
Mosaic virus overwinters on perennial weeds and is spread by insects that feed on them. Aphids, leafhoppers, whiteflies and cucumber beetles are common garden pests that can transmit this disease. Soil, seed, starter pots and containers can be infected and pass the virus to the plant. Cuttings or divisions from infected plants will also carry the virus.
Treatment
There are no cures for viral diseases such as mosaic once a plant is infected. As a result, every effort should be made to prevent the disease from entering your garden.
Fungicides will NOT treat this viral disease.
Plant resistant varieties when available or purchase transplants from a reputable source.
Do NOT save seed from infected crops.
Spot treat with least-toxic, natural pest control products, such as Safer Soap, Bon-Neem and diatomaceous earth, to reduce the number of disease carrying insects.
Harvest-Guard® row cover will help keep insect pests off vulnerable crops/ transplants and should be installed until bloom.
Remove all perennial weeds, using least-toxic herbicides, within 100 yards of your garden plot.
The virus can be spread through human activity, tools and equipment. Frequently wash your hands and disinfect garden tools, stakes, ties, pots, greenhouse benches, etc. (one part bleach to 4 parts water) to reduce the risk of contamination.
Avoid working in the garden during damp conditions (viruses are easily spread when plants are wet).
Avoid using tobacco around susceptible plants. Cigarettes and other tobacco products may be infected and can spread the virus.
Remove and destroy all infected plants (see Fall Garden Cleanup). Do NOT compost.
Plant viruses can be difficult to detect as symptoms look similar to many nutrient deficiencies and vary depending on the age of the plant when infection occurs. Look for:
Yellow, white or green stripes/ streaks/ spots on foliage
Wrinkled, curled or small leaves
Pronounced yellowing only of veins
Stunted growth and reduced yields
Infected fruit appears mottled and develops raised “warty” areas
Mosaic virus overwinters on perennial weeds and is spread by insects that feed on them. Aphids, leafhoppers, whiteflies and cucumber beetles are common garden pests that can transmit this disease. Soil, seed, starter pots and containers can be infected and pass the virus to the plant. Cuttings or divisions from infected plants will also carry the virus.
Treatment
There are no cures for viral diseases such as mosaic once a plant is infected. As a result, every effort should be made to prevent the disease from entering your garden.
Fungicides will NOT treat this viral disease.
Plant resistant varieties when available or purchase transplants from a reputable source.
Do NOT save seed from infected crops.
Spot treat with least-toxic, natural pest control products, such as Safer Soap, Bon-Neem and diatomaceous earth, to reduce the number of disease carrying insects.
Harvest-Guard® row cover will help keep insect pests off vulnerable crops/ transplants and should be installed until bloom.
Remove all perennial weeds, using least-toxic herbicides, within 100 yards of your garden plot.
The virus can be spread through human activity, tools and equipment. Frequently wash your hands and disinfect garden tools, stakes, ties, pots, greenhouse benches, etc. (one part bleach to 4 parts water) to reduce the risk of contamination.
Avoid working in the garden during damp conditions (viruses are easily spread when plants are wet).
Avoid using tobacco around susceptible plants. Cigarettes and other tobacco products may be infected and can spread the virus.
Remove and destroy all infected plants (see Fall Garden Cleanup). Do NOT compost.
0
0
文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月13日
Roses have a reputation for getting all kinds of diseases. While modern roses are a lot less prone to problems than the tea roses favored not so long ago, there will inevitably be seasonal rose problems to deal with.
Most rose diseases are caused by damp or humid weather. While you can't do anything to control the weather, you can give your rose bushes good air circulation, so they are able to dry off as best they can.
This will help avoid rose diseases to some degree, but not entirely. You will also need to keep tabs on your rose bushes so that you can remedy any bad situation before it gets out of hand.
Be sure to accurately identify the problem before reaching for a spray and start with the least toxic solution. You can read more about organic controls in An Overview of Some Common Organic Garden Pesticides.
The Big 4 of Rose Diseases
Black Spot: Black spot is a fungus that is very common during humid weather because it is a water-bourne disease. As its name implies, small black spots form on leaves and stems, eventually causing the leaves to drop and weakening the plant.
Treatment: Choose black spot resistant varieties and be meticulous about sanitation. Water the roots of the rose, avoiding the foliage. Water in the morning, so that splashed leaves have time to dry off. If Black Spot is an annual problem, try a dormant spray of lime sulfur at the end of the season and again in early summer. Once Black Spot appears, it is hard to stop. Neem oil and Sprays containing Potassium bicarbonate are somewhat effective.
Downy Mildew: Downy mildew is a very serious disease that spreads rapidly and can defoliate a rose plant in days. It is not as common as Black Spot and favors cool, wet weather. Purple spots with yellow edges form , often on the veins on the top side of the leaves and along the stems. Pale gray fuzz can form on the under side of the leaves. The leaves will eventually become brittle and fall.
Treatment: The good news is that Downy Mildew often clears up with the weather. To reduce the chance of Downy Mildew, practice good garden sanitation and keep the rose plants well pruned for air circulation. As with other diseases, a dormant spray may help.
Rust: A Rust infection is easy to spot. Small orange pustules spots form on the undersides of the leaves. This fungus can also cause defoliation. Rust is most prevalent when nights are cool.
Treatment: Treatment of Rust is similar to treatment of Black Spot, above: Good sanitation and a preventative dormant spray after pruning. Once infected, remove all infected leaves and try Neem oil for control.
Mosaic Virus: Once a rose is infected with Rose Mosaic Virus, there’s not much to be done except check with the nursery for a replacement. Rose Mosaic Virus shows up as yellow mottling on leaves and deformed new growth. It can stunt growth or it can be a mild infection. If there are only a few affected leaves, the plant may continue growing and blooming fine. The really good news is that it won’t spread to your other roses.
Read Rose Growing Problems - Prevent Rose Problems Before They Occur, for advice on avoiding these diseases and other problems.
Most rose diseases are caused by damp or humid weather. While you can't do anything to control the weather, you can give your rose bushes good air circulation, so they are able to dry off as best they can.
This will help avoid rose diseases to some degree, but not entirely. You will also need to keep tabs on your rose bushes so that you can remedy any bad situation before it gets out of hand.
Be sure to accurately identify the problem before reaching for a spray and start with the least toxic solution. You can read more about organic controls in An Overview of Some Common Organic Garden Pesticides.
The Big 4 of Rose Diseases
Black Spot: Black spot is a fungus that is very common during humid weather because it is a water-bourne disease. As its name implies, small black spots form on leaves and stems, eventually causing the leaves to drop and weakening the plant.
Treatment: Choose black spot resistant varieties and be meticulous about sanitation. Water the roots of the rose, avoiding the foliage. Water in the morning, so that splashed leaves have time to dry off. If Black Spot is an annual problem, try a dormant spray of lime sulfur at the end of the season and again in early summer. Once Black Spot appears, it is hard to stop. Neem oil and Sprays containing Potassium bicarbonate are somewhat effective.
Downy Mildew: Downy mildew is a very serious disease that spreads rapidly and can defoliate a rose plant in days. It is not as common as Black Spot and favors cool, wet weather. Purple spots with yellow edges form , often on the veins on the top side of the leaves and along the stems. Pale gray fuzz can form on the under side of the leaves. The leaves will eventually become brittle and fall.
Treatment: The good news is that Downy Mildew often clears up with the weather. To reduce the chance of Downy Mildew, practice good garden sanitation and keep the rose plants well pruned for air circulation. As with other diseases, a dormant spray may help.
Rust: A Rust infection is easy to spot. Small orange pustules spots form on the undersides of the leaves. This fungus can also cause defoliation. Rust is most prevalent when nights are cool.
Treatment: Treatment of Rust is similar to treatment of Black Spot, above: Good sanitation and a preventative dormant spray after pruning. Once infected, remove all infected leaves and try Neem oil for control.
Mosaic Virus: Once a rose is infected with Rose Mosaic Virus, there’s not much to be done except check with the nursery for a replacement. Rose Mosaic Virus shows up as yellow mottling on leaves and deformed new growth. It can stunt growth or it can be a mild infection. If there are only a few affected leaves, the plant may continue growing and blooming fine. The really good news is that it won’t spread to your other roses.
Read Rose Growing Problems - Prevent Rose Problems Before They Occur, for advice on avoiding these diseases and other problems.
0
0
文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月13日
What is Black Spot?
Black spot is a fungal disease (Diplocarpon rosae), that affects roses. It causes black spots on leaves, eventually causing the leaves to turn yellow and drop off. Besides looking unsightly, it can seriously weaken the rose plant. Ideal conditions include hot, humid or rainy summers and hot days with cool, damp nights.
Symptoms:
Somewhat circular black spots on leaves. They usually occur on the upper sides of leaves, but can also develop on the undersides.
The outer margins of the black circles are ragged or feathery and they are usually surrounded by a ring of yellow.
Spots begin on the lower foliage and move upward. They can appear as early as when the leaves first unfurl. These spots can enlarge and merge. Severally affected leaves often fall off the plants and left unchecked, the entire plant can defoliate.
The fungus can also infect young canes, causing dark purple or black blisters, and even the flowers may show some red spotting. Infected plants will set fewer flower buds and without leaves, the plant becomes stressed and is susceptible to even more problems.
Cultural Controls
Growing Conditions - Make the growing conditions less hospitable for black spot. Black spot is easier to prevent than to cure. The spores can remain in the soil and overwinter on leaves and stems, waiting for favorable conditions. They make contact with the rose by splashing up in drops of water.
Give the plant what it wants. This is true for avoiding any plant disease. A healthy, vigorous plant is less susceptible to problems. Roses prefer a sunny location with well-draining soil and regular weekly watering.
Air Flow - Provide good air circulation around and through your rose plants. Don't plant your roses too close to other plants. Prune to open the spaces between canes, if the plant gets too dense and air can not get through.
Proper Watering - Avoid getting the leaves wet, while watering. There's not much you can do about rain, but at least limit the time the leaves remain wet.
Plant resistant cultivars - Roses are often labeled for resistance, from highly resistant on down. While you are looking for black spot resistance, you might as well look for a rose that is also resistant to rust and powdery mildew. Rugosas, the newer shrub and ground cover roses and many of the Canadian Explorer Series, like John Cabot and William Baffin, show good resistance.
Sanitation - Remove any infected leaves and always do a thorough cleanup each fall. Remove and dispose of any remaining leaves, when you do your dormant pruning in late winter/early spring. Spores can remain on leaves and stems throughout and will reinfect whenever conditions are favorable. Within 10 days of the first symptoms, the disease has already started spreading. Spores can spread by water and wind.
Prune out any canes showing signs of infection. Prune 6 – 8 inches below the infection and only prune in dry weather. Disinfect your pruners with a 10% bleach solution or alcohol, between cuts.
Mulch - Apply a thick layer of mulch around the plants. Mulch will prevent water from splashing up on the plant and spreading spores.
Sprays for Treatment and Prevention
It is easier to prevent black spot than to cure it, but it is time-consuming.
If black spot is a reoccurring problem in your area, you may need to spray your plants weekly, starting in early spring.
Baking soda spray - Dissolve 1 teaspoon baking soda in 1-quart warm water. Add up to 1 teaspoon liquid soap. Spray leaves thoroughly. This mixture works better as a preventive than as a cure. Also offers some protection from powdery mildew.
Bordeaux Mix - This is a fungicide that contains copper sulfate and hydrated lime. It can be used as a powder or mixed with water and sprayed. Bordeaux mix also repels some insect pests, but it can burn plant leaves. It is generally used as a preventative in the spring, before plants leaf out.
Insecticidal soaps with added fungicide - These are basically some type of organic fungicide, often sulfur, added to regular insecticidal soap. The soap helps the fungicide adhere to the plant leaves and spread to coat them.
Neem Oil - Neem is an organic fungicide and pesticide, derived from the seeds of the neem tree. It gets inside the plant's system, so you don't need to worry about coating everything or reapplying after a rain. However, it can burn plant leaves in hot sun. You should not apply need oil within 2 weeks of using a product containing sulfur.
Sulfur - Sulfur both prevents and gets rid of fungus diseases. It is also used to control several insect pests. However it can be mildly toxic to humans and other animals. You should wear protective clothing when you spray it. It can also corrode metal, so use a plastic sprayer . And it can burn plants leaves in hot weather.
Sulfur comes as a finely ground powder. If you prefer to spray it on, look for one labeled as wettable, so that it will mix with water.
Black spot is a fungal disease (Diplocarpon rosae), that affects roses. It causes black spots on leaves, eventually causing the leaves to turn yellow and drop off. Besides looking unsightly, it can seriously weaken the rose plant. Ideal conditions include hot, humid or rainy summers and hot days with cool, damp nights.
Symptoms:
Somewhat circular black spots on leaves. They usually occur on the upper sides of leaves, but can also develop on the undersides.
The outer margins of the black circles are ragged or feathery and they are usually surrounded by a ring of yellow.
Spots begin on the lower foliage and move upward. They can appear as early as when the leaves first unfurl. These spots can enlarge and merge. Severally affected leaves often fall off the plants and left unchecked, the entire plant can defoliate.
The fungus can also infect young canes, causing dark purple or black blisters, and even the flowers may show some red spotting. Infected plants will set fewer flower buds and without leaves, the plant becomes stressed and is susceptible to even more problems.
Cultural Controls
Growing Conditions - Make the growing conditions less hospitable for black spot. Black spot is easier to prevent than to cure. The spores can remain in the soil and overwinter on leaves and stems, waiting for favorable conditions. They make contact with the rose by splashing up in drops of water.
Give the plant what it wants. This is true for avoiding any plant disease. A healthy, vigorous plant is less susceptible to problems. Roses prefer a sunny location with well-draining soil and regular weekly watering.
Air Flow - Provide good air circulation around and through your rose plants. Don't plant your roses too close to other plants. Prune to open the spaces between canes, if the plant gets too dense and air can not get through.
Proper Watering - Avoid getting the leaves wet, while watering. There's not much you can do about rain, but at least limit the time the leaves remain wet.
Plant resistant cultivars - Roses are often labeled for resistance, from highly resistant on down. While you are looking for black spot resistance, you might as well look for a rose that is also resistant to rust and powdery mildew. Rugosas, the newer shrub and ground cover roses and many of the Canadian Explorer Series, like John Cabot and William Baffin, show good resistance.
Sanitation - Remove any infected leaves and always do a thorough cleanup each fall. Remove and dispose of any remaining leaves, when you do your dormant pruning in late winter/early spring. Spores can remain on leaves and stems throughout and will reinfect whenever conditions are favorable. Within 10 days of the first symptoms, the disease has already started spreading. Spores can spread by water and wind.
Prune out any canes showing signs of infection. Prune 6 – 8 inches below the infection and only prune in dry weather. Disinfect your pruners with a 10% bleach solution or alcohol, between cuts.
Mulch - Apply a thick layer of mulch around the plants. Mulch will prevent water from splashing up on the plant and spreading spores.
Sprays for Treatment and Prevention
It is easier to prevent black spot than to cure it, but it is time-consuming.
If black spot is a reoccurring problem in your area, you may need to spray your plants weekly, starting in early spring.
Baking soda spray - Dissolve 1 teaspoon baking soda in 1-quart warm water. Add up to 1 teaspoon liquid soap. Spray leaves thoroughly. This mixture works better as a preventive than as a cure. Also offers some protection from powdery mildew.
Bordeaux Mix - This is a fungicide that contains copper sulfate and hydrated lime. It can be used as a powder or mixed with water and sprayed. Bordeaux mix also repels some insect pests, but it can burn plant leaves. It is generally used as a preventative in the spring, before plants leaf out.
Insecticidal soaps with added fungicide - These are basically some type of organic fungicide, often sulfur, added to regular insecticidal soap. The soap helps the fungicide adhere to the plant leaves and spread to coat them.
Neem Oil - Neem is an organic fungicide and pesticide, derived from the seeds of the neem tree. It gets inside the plant's system, so you don't need to worry about coating everything or reapplying after a rain. However, it can burn plant leaves in hot sun. You should not apply need oil within 2 weeks of using a product containing sulfur.
Sulfur - Sulfur both prevents and gets rid of fungus diseases. It is also used to control several insect pests. However it can be mildly toxic to humans and other animals. You should wear protective clothing when you spray it. It can also corrode metal, so use a plastic sprayer . And it can burn plants leaves in hot weather.
Sulfur comes as a finely ground powder. If you prefer to spray it on, look for one labeled as wettable, so that it will mix with water.
0
0
文章
Miss Chen
2017年08月29日
How to Revive Droopy-Headed Roses. Your sweetie has just spent a small fortune on roses for Valentine's Day. If this generous expression of love is in less than perfect condition and the buds are drooping at the top of the stems, try this simple way to revive these sentimental favorites.
Step 1
Remove the roses from the vase and set aside any greenery or baby's breath that accompanies the flowers.
Step 2
Separate the roses, but keep them in fresh water while you work.
Step 3
Make a fresh cut on each stem, about an inch or so up, while holding the stem under water. Cutting underwater allows a drop of water to adhere to the cut end while you move the flower; if you don't have this drop of water, air will enter the stem and cause the bud to droop.
Step 4
Roll each fresh-cut flower into a sheet of newspaper. The newspaper should be wrapped tightly to support the bud in line with the stem. Use rubber bands or tape so that the newspaper doesn't unroll.
Step 5
Submerge the wrapped rose in a deep, long container such as a bathtub or a sink. The rose should be completely under water.
Step 6
Roll, wrap and submerge the rest of the roses.
Step 7
Allow the roses to soak in their wrappers for several hours.
Step 8
Remove the wrapped roses from the submersion bath, unwrap each one and place in a vase filled with fresh water.
Step 1
Remove the roses from the vase and set aside any greenery or baby's breath that accompanies the flowers.
Step 2
Separate the roses, but keep them in fresh water while you work.
Step 3
Make a fresh cut on each stem, about an inch or so up, while holding the stem under water. Cutting underwater allows a drop of water to adhere to the cut end while you move the flower; if you don't have this drop of water, air will enter the stem and cause the bud to droop.
Step 4
Roll each fresh-cut flower into a sheet of newspaper. The newspaper should be wrapped tightly to support the bud in line with the stem. Use rubber bands or tape so that the newspaper doesn't unroll.
Step 5
Submerge the wrapped rose in a deep, long container such as a bathtub or a sink. The rose should be completely under water.
Step 6
Roll, wrap and submerge the rest of the roses.
Step 7
Allow the roses to soak in their wrappers for several hours.
Step 8
Remove the wrapped roses from the submersion bath, unwrap each one and place in a vase filled with fresh water.
2
1
文章
Miss Chen
2017年08月29日
How to Care for Roses. Roses have an undeserved reputation for being fussy, hard-to-care-for plants. But after all, they're just shrubs. Some roses do require more maintenance than others, but growing roses is something even a beginner can do.
Spring Rose Care
Step 1
Prune roses in early spring once the rose starts to show signs of new growth, usually in the form of tiny red buds swelling. These buds will become new branches.
Step 2
Cut out any obviously dead or damaged branches first. Then cut out all but four or five healthy stems, each ideally about as thick as a pencil.
Step 3
Cut the rose bush back by 1/3 to 1/2, depending on how tall you want it to be. Make these cuts right above an outward facing bud - that is, a red bud that's on the outside of the rose bush. This directs the bud to grow up and out, leaving the center of the rose bush open for a prettier shape and better air circulation.
Step 4
Fertilize roses regularly during the growing season. Roses are hungry plants, demanding lots of nutrients for best growth and flowering. Each rose grower has his or her own favorite method. One of the easiest is to buy a slow-release granular rose food and work it into the soil so it can feed the plant all season long. Otherwise, you'll want to fertilize the rose with a liquid fertilizer every three to four weeks during the growing season (stop in early autumn) or according to package directions.
Step 5
Water diligently. Roses need a steady source of water during the growing season, about 1 inch a week from rain or watering. In arid regions of the country, if you have several roses, consider installing a do-it-yourself drip irrigation system.
Summer Rose Care
Step 6
Mulch. Roses need less weeding and watering and have fewer diseases if you mulch. Lay down 1 to 2 inches of organic mulch, such as wood chips, pine needles, grass clippings or other biodegradable material.
Step 7
Deadhead. This simply means trimming spent roses off the shrub to encourage it to produce more. While some roses bloom only in one big flush in June, others are bred to keep producing off and on all season long.
Step 8
Spray. If your rose becomes diseased or has an insect infestation, you may want to deal with it by spraying. (However, first try simply trimming off the diseased portion of the plant and giving the plant a good strong blast from a hose.) If you choose to spray, first identify the problem by trimming off the diseased part and taking it to a reliable garden center, where the staff can prescribe the correct pesticide or herbicide.
Fall and Winter Rose Care
Step 9
Stop fertilizing roses in early autumn, at least one month before your region's first annual frost date. Fertilizing too long into autumn encourages roses to produce tender new growth that will get nipped by cold.
Step 10
Protect roses as needed in late autumn, after your region's first hard freeze. In regions where temperatures don't fall below 20 degrees F (USDA zone 9 and warmer), no additional winter protection is needed. In cooler regions where temperatures don't fall below 10 degrees below zero (zones 6 to 8), a simple mounding of several inches of soil over the base of the rose should suffice. In cold-winter regions where temperatures get colder than 10 degrees below zero (zone 5 and colder), mound to about a foot about a month after your region's last average frost date; additionally, two weeks later, the entire plant should be wrapped in burlap to protect the upper parts.
Spring Rose Care
Step 1
Prune roses in early spring once the rose starts to show signs of new growth, usually in the form of tiny red buds swelling. These buds will become new branches.
Step 2
Cut out any obviously dead or damaged branches first. Then cut out all but four or five healthy stems, each ideally about as thick as a pencil.
Step 3
Cut the rose bush back by 1/3 to 1/2, depending on how tall you want it to be. Make these cuts right above an outward facing bud - that is, a red bud that's on the outside of the rose bush. This directs the bud to grow up and out, leaving the center of the rose bush open for a prettier shape and better air circulation.
Step 4
Fertilize roses regularly during the growing season. Roses are hungry plants, demanding lots of nutrients for best growth and flowering. Each rose grower has his or her own favorite method. One of the easiest is to buy a slow-release granular rose food and work it into the soil so it can feed the plant all season long. Otherwise, you'll want to fertilize the rose with a liquid fertilizer every three to four weeks during the growing season (stop in early autumn) or according to package directions.
Step 5
Water diligently. Roses need a steady source of water during the growing season, about 1 inch a week from rain or watering. In arid regions of the country, if you have several roses, consider installing a do-it-yourself drip irrigation system.
Summer Rose Care
Step 6
Mulch. Roses need less weeding and watering and have fewer diseases if you mulch. Lay down 1 to 2 inches of organic mulch, such as wood chips, pine needles, grass clippings or other biodegradable material.
Step 7
Deadhead. This simply means trimming spent roses off the shrub to encourage it to produce more. While some roses bloom only in one big flush in June, others are bred to keep producing off and on all season long.
Step 8
Spray. If your rose becomes diseased or has an insect infestation, you may want to deal with it by spraying. (However, first try simply trimming off the diseased portion of the plant and giving the plant a good strong blast from a hose.) If you choose to spray, first identify the problem by trimming off the diseased part and taking it to a reliable garden center, where the staff can prescribe the correct pesticide or herbicide.
Fall and Winter Rose Care
Step 9
Stop fertilizing roses in early autumn, at least one month before your region's first annual frost date. Fertilizing too long into autumn encourages roses to produce tender new growth that will get nipped by cold.
Step 10
Protect roses as needed in late autumn, after your region's first hard freeze. In regions where temperatures don't fall below 20 degrees F (USDA zone 9 and warmer), no additional winter protection is needed. In cooler regions where temperatures don't fall below 10 degrees below zero (zones 6 to 8), a simple mounding of several inches of soil over the base of the rose should suffice. In cold-winter regions where temperatures get colder than 10 degrees below zero (zone 5 and colder), mound to about a foot about a month after your region's last average frost date; additionally, two weeks later, the entire plant should be wrapped in burlap to protect the upper parts.
2
1
文章
Miss Chen
2017年08月29日
Given ideal planting locations of full sun and well-drained soil, Knock Out roses (Rosa spp.) offer near-continuous blooms in exchange for minimal maintenance. From the original Knock Out rose (Rosa "Radrazz") to later varieties in the Knock Out group, simple, basic care keeps these roses looking their best.
Water Requirements
During their first year in the ground, Knock Out roses need regular water as roots become established. One inch of water per week from rainfall or supplemental watering sets a starting point, but a hands-on approach keeps watering on track. Test the soil about 3 inches down from the surface; it should be cool and damp. For established bushes, let the soil dry at that depth before you water. Knock Out leaves also give clear tips on when these drought-tolerant shrubs need a drink. Normally glossy, thirsty leaves lose their luster. Infrequent, thorough waterings suit these roses. A 2- to 3-inch layer of organic mulch helps keep roots cool and retains soil moisture.
Fertilizer Needs
Fertilizers are optional when it comes to Knock Out roses. Proper planting avoids added fertilizer in the hole, and normal garden soil meets their needs in future years. A 2- to 3-inch layer of organic compost added each spring provides gentle, long-lasting nutrition. If desired, a slow-release rose fertilizer can be used. For example, apply 3/4 cup of a granular, 3-4-3 rose fertilizer per Knock Out rose every six weeks during the active growing season. Gently work the fertilizer into the soil around the shrub's base, and water the area well. Avoid fast-release, high-nitrogen fertilizers; they spur lanky growth and reduce blooms. Stop fertilizing two months before your area's first frost so the roses prepare for winter.
Pruning Procedures
Known as self-cleaning roses, Knock Outs drop old blossoms on their own after blooming, eliminating the need for deadheading and preparing the way for the next flush of flowers. Knock Outs grow 3 to 4 feet tall and wide in most climates, tripling in height after an annual pruning. The roses aren't fussy about techniques. Cut them back to 12 inches in height or one-third of your desired size, just as new growth begins. Use sharp, bypass pruners or bypass loppers -- even hedging shears work with these roses. Sterilize your pruner blades with household disinfectant before and after each bush, and wear protective clothing, including gloves, long sleeves and safety eyewear.
Pest and Disease Control
Diseases and insects rarely trouble Knock Out roses. The shrubs resist common rose diseases, including black spot and mildew, and eliminate the need for disease control beyond proper siting and care. Common garden pests, such as aphids and spider mites, occasionally may appear. A strong burst of water from your garden hose dislodges these pests and sends them on their way. Aphids generally cluster on stems below the blossoms, while spider mites stay hidden on the undersides of leaves. Target your spray where the intruders lie, and that's all the pest control Knock Outs generally need.
Winter Protection
Knock Out roses are reliably hardy in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 5 through 11, with Sunny Knock Out (Rosa "Radsunny") hardy in USDA zone 4 as well. For gardeners pushing the envelope in cold climates with the Knock Out group, extra winter insulation helps protect the roses' crowns from winter damage. After the ground has frozen and the shrubs are dormant, mound mulch or oak leaves over their crowns to a depth of about 8 inches. Remove the mulch as soil warms in spring. Knock Out roses are grown on their own roots, so even when they die back to the ground in harsh winters, they spring back from the roots in their hardiness zones.
Water Requirements
During their first year in the ground, Knock Out roses need regular water as roots become established. One inch of water per week from rainfall or supplemental watering sets a starting point, but a hands-on approach keeps watering on track. Test the soil about 3 inches down from the surface; it should be cool and damp. For established bushes, let the soil dry at that depth before you water. Knock Out leaves also give clear tips on when these drought-tolerant shrubs need a drink. Normally glossy, thirsty leaves lose their luster. Infrequent, thorough waterings suit these roses. A 2- to 3-inch layer of organic mulch helps keep roots cool and retains soil moisture.
Fertilizer Needs
Fertilizers are optional when it comes to Knock Out roses. Proper planting avoids added fertilizer in the hole, and normal garden soil meets their needs in future years. A 2- to 3-inch layer of organic compost added each spring provides gentle, long-lasting nutrition. If desired, a slow-release rose fertilizer can be used. For example, apply 3/4 cup of a granular, 3-4-3 rose fertilizer per Knock Out rose every six weeks during the active growing season. Gently work the fertilizer into the soil around the shrub's base, and water the area well. Avoid fast-release, high-nitrogen fertilizers; they spur lanky growth and reduce blooms. Stop fertilizing two months before your area's first frost so the roses prepare for winter.
Pruning Procedures
Known as self-cleaning roses, Knock Outs drop old blossoms on their own after blooming, eliminating the need for deadheading and preparing the way for the next flush of flowers. Knock Outs grow 3 to 4 feet tall and wide in most climates, tripling in height after an annual pruning. The roses aren't fussy about techniques. Cut them back to 12 inches in height or one-third of your desired size, just as new growth begins. Use sharp, bypass pruners or bypass loppers -- even hedging shears work with these roses. Sterilize your pruner blades with household disinfectant before and after each bush, and wear protective clothing, including gloves, long sleeves and safety eyewear.
Pest and Disease Control
Diseases and insects rarely trouble Knock Out roses. The shrubs resist common rose diseases, including black spot and mildew, and eliminate the need for disease control beyond proper siting and care. Common garden pests, such as aphids and spider mites, occasionally may appear. A strong burst of water from your garden hose dislodges these pests and sends them on their way. Aphids generally cluster on stems below the blossoms, while spider mites stay hidden on the undersides of leaves. Target your spray where the intruders lie, and that's all the pest control Knock Outs generally need.
Winter Protection
Knock Out roses are reliably hardy in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 5 through 11, with Sunny Knock Out (Rosa "Radsunny") hardy in USDA zone 4 as well. For gardeners pushing the envelope in cold climates with the Knock Out group, extra winter insulation helps protect the roses' crowns from winter damage. After the ground has frozen and the shrubs are dormant, mound mulch or oak leaves over their crowns to a depth of about 8 inches. Remove the mulch as soil warms in spring. Knock Out roses are grown on their own roots, so even when they die back to the ground in harsh winters, they spring back from the roots in their hardiness zones.
1
1
文章
Miss Chen
2017年08月29日
Roses are edible flowers. From ancient times they have appeared at feasting tables as bouquets and as food. The flavor of roses is varied as the colors. The sweet, tart or spicy petals are easy to use and popular additions to any kitchen.
Step 1
Select fresh roses free of pesticides. Preferably the roses should be from your garden or an organic market. Light-color roses are more sweet or light in flavor. Darker roses have more aroma and flavor. Taste a rose petal to decide where it belongs on your menu.
Step 2
Wash roses by gently swishing them in cool water. Blot them gently with paper towels. Grasp the petals between the thumb and fingers of one hand and the blossom stem in the other hand. Pull out the petals. Discard any blemished petals. Use the petals immediately or store refrigerated in a plastic bag. Use within a few days for best flavor and freshness.
Step 3
Freeze rose petals in ice cubes. The fast way is fill the water trays and freeze until the ice is slushy, and then tuck in a petal or two. Freeze until solid. The more elegant way is to fill trays half full of water. Freeze. Drop in a rose petal for each cube. Cover petals with a spoonful of water and freeze again. Fill trays with water and freeze. Use rose cubes in lemonade, iced tea or punch.
Step 4
Make salad days rosy by sprinkling sweet-tasting fresh petals over fruit salads. Mix petals in whipped cream for fruit topping. Sprinkle spicy rose petals on green salads. Add and shake petals with vinegar-oil dressings for aroma and flavor.
Step 5
Prepare rose butter by mixing a half-cup to 1 cup of chopped rose petals in a cup of sweet unsalted butter. Let the blend stand at room temperature for 24 hours, then mix again and refrigerate to fully flavor the butter. Use this rose butter on bread or warm muffins. Substitute rose butter for regular butter in cookie or cake recipes. This butter refrigerates up to 2 weeks and freezes well.
Step 6
Infuse rose water by adding 2 cups rose petals to 1 quart water. Bring to a gentle boil, then turn off heat and let cool. Filter out the rose petals and bottle the water. Refrigerate the water for use in ice cubes or tea. Add rose water in place of regular water for gelatins and other desserts.
Step 7
Garnish with dried rose petals. Spread the petals on a microwave-safe dish or paper plate. Heat them for 1 or 2 minutes until dry. Scatter the small dry petals on everything from appetizers to desserts. Add a dusting of petals to top off vanilla pudding, brownies or ice cream. Sprinkle dry petals on frosted cakes or cupcakes. Have a rosy time in the kitchen!
Step 1
Select fresh roses free of pesticides. Preferably the roses should be from your garden or an organic market. Light-color roses are more sweet or light in flavor. Darker roses have more aroma and flavor. Taste a rose petal to decide where it belongs on your menu.
Step 2
Wash roses by gently swishing them in cool water. Blot them gently with paper towels. Grasp the petals between the thumb and fingers of one hand and the blossom stem in the other hand. Pull out the petals. Discard any blemished petals. Use the petals immediately or store refrigerated in a plastic bag. Use within a few days for best flavor and freshness.
Step 3
Freeze rose petals in ice cubes. The fast way is fill the water trays and freeze until the ice is slushy, and then tuck in a petal or two. Freeze until solid. The more elegant way is to fill trays half full of water. Freeze. Drop in a rose petal for each cube. Cover petals with a spoonful of water and freeze again. Fill trays with water and freeze. Use rose cubes in lemonade, iced tea or punch.
Step 4
Make salad days rosy by sprinkling sweet-tasting fresh petals over fruit salads. Mix petals in whipped cream for fruit topping. Sprinkle spicy rose petals on green salads. Add and shake petals with vinegar-oil dressings for aroma and flavor.
Step 5
Prepare rose butter by mixing a half-cup to 1 cup of chopped rose petals in a cup of sweet unsalted butter. Let the blend stand at room temperature for 24 hours, then mix again and refrigerate to fully flavor the butter. Use this rose butter on bread or warm muffins. Substitute rose butter for regular butter in cookie or cake recipes. This butter refrigerates up to 2 weeks and freezes well.
Step 6
Infuse rose water by adding 2 cups rose petals to 1 quart water. Bring to a gentle boil, then turn off heat and let cool. Filter out the rose petals and bottle the water. Refrigerate the water for use in ice cubes or tea. Add rose water in place of regular water for gelatins and other desserts.
Step 7
Garnish with dried rose petals. Spread the petals on a microwave-safe dish or paper plate. Heat them for 1 or 2 minutes until dry. Scatter the small dry petals on everything from appetizers to desserts. Add a dusting of petals to top off vanilla pudding, brownies or ice cream. Sprinkle dry petals on frosted cakes or cupcakes. Have a rosy time in the kitchen!
0
0
文章
Miss Chen
2017年08月29日
If you have roses that have been invaded by insects, there are a number of ways to get rid of these annoying garden pests. Some of the most common insects that attack rose bushes are aphids, spider mites and leafhoppers.Roses faced with an infestation should be tended to quickly. With some diligence, a once healthy rose bush can survive the attacks of insects. Take a minute to recognize and diagnose the infestation and you’ll discover with a little care and attention you can combat any insect invasion using the following methods.
Step 1
Establish a regular schedule for pest control. Take the time every two weeks to spray the plants with a soap and water solution. In a plastic spray bottle, mix about a tablespoon of liquid soap and tap water and spray roses with the solution.
Step 2
Encourage insect-eating birds such as bluebirds, robins, orioles and wrens to visit your rose garden by hanging a bird feeder nearby. You can buy a bird feeder at a local home and garden supply store where prices range from as little as $7.99 up to $39.99. Fill the feeder with wild birdseed and hang it near the rose garden. Not only will the birds eat the bugs off the rose bushes but they are a delightful asset to any garden.
Step 3
Purchase insect eating predators from gardening catalogs, the local garden center or go on-line to websites such as www.buglogical.com to order insects for the garden. Ladybugs and Praying mantis, the most popular garden predators, can help keep the population of aphids and other garden pests under control. Before they are released in the garden, insects should be stored in the refrigerator or in a cool place. When you are ready, thaw the package and release the insects in the garden. Let the food chain take its course.
Step 4
Prune any diseased leaves and canes and discard cuttings away from rose beds. Destroy any leaves and canes that can still harbor garden pests and insects that are still feeding on the cuttings. Destroy cuttings by throwing them into a plastic bag and sealing it shut. Or, if possible, burn the cuttings.
Step 5
Do a cleanup before your rose bushes go dormant for the season. You will have fewer insects if you thoroughly clean all debris from around the beds before the winter. Rake up any fallen leaves and dump them in the garbage away from the garden. Remove any old mulch and replace it with fresh mulch.
Step 1
Establish a regular schedule for pest control. Take the time every two weeks to spray the plants with a soap and water solution. In a plastic spray bottle, mix about a tablespoon of liquid soap and tap water and spray roses with the solution.
Step 2
Encourage insect-eating birds such as bluebirds, robins, orioles and wrens to visit your rose garden by hanging a bird feeder nearby. You can buy a bird feeder at a local home and garden supply store where prices range from as little as $7.99 up to $39.99. Fill the feeder with wild birdseed and hang it near the rose garden. Not only will the birds eat the bugs off the rose bushes but they are a delightful asset to any garden.
Step 3
Purchase insect eating predators from gardening catalogs, the local garden center or go on-line to websites such as www.buglogical.com to order insects for the garden. Ladybugs and Praying mantis, the most popular garden predators, can help keep the population of aphids and other garden pests under control. Before they are released in the garden, insects should be stored in the refrigerator or in a cool place. When you are ready, thaw the package and release the insects in the garden. Let the food chain take its course.
Step 4
Prune any diseased leaves and canes and discard cuttings away from rose beds. Destroy any leaves and canes that can still harbor garden pests and insects that are still feeding on the cuttings. Destroy cuttings by throwing them into a plastic bag and sealing it shut. Or, if possible, burn the cuttings.
Step 5
Do a cleanup before your rose bushes go dormant for the season. You will have fewer insects if you thoroughly clean all debris from around the beds before the winter. Rake up any fallen leaves and dump them in the garbage away from the garden. Remove any old mulch and replace it with fresh mulch.
1
1
文章
Miss Chen
2017年08月29日
Roses (Rosa spp.) are hardy in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 4 through 9, depending on the variety. Varieties include climbing or rambling, bush, hybrid and miniature. Some roses bloom on canes produced the previous year and others on the current year's growth. Pruning at the wrong time can lead to poor blossom production or make the plants susceptible to pests diseases and weather damage. Hard-prune hybrid, bush and miniature roses in spring just before they produce leaves, and hard-prune climbing roses right after their blooms fade in summer. About one-third of a rose bush remains after a hard prune. Trimming instead of hard-pruning, however, removes only enough growth to shape the bushes and to encourage new blooms. Trim all kinds of roses throughout the growing season for size control, additional flowering or to remove faded blooms and damaged branches.
Step 1
Remove rose bushes' dead canes any time you notice them. Cut back each dead portion of a cane to the green part of the cane, using pruning shears. Check whether or not the pith -- the center of the cane -- is white. If the pith is brown, prune back the cane to its part that has a white pith.
Step 2
Cut away branches that are smaller in diameter than a pencil throughout the growing season. Make each cut at a 45-degree angle away from an outward-facing stem bud.
Step 3
Trim back stems that cross each other or may grow into each other when you notice the problem. Cut such a stem back to the main cane, leaving about 1/4 inch of the stem remaining. Use loppers or pruning shears.
Step 4
Cut the stem of each spent flower just below the first set of a five-leaf leaflet. Cut just below a seven-leaf leaflet if you want to reduce a rose bush's height. Removing spent flowers is called deadheading.
Step 5
Remove two or three center, old canes at the base of a crowded or overgrown rose bush by using loppers. This technique opens the bush's center, providing it better air circulation during the growing season.
Step 1
Remove rose bushes' dead canes any time you notice them. Cut back each dead portion of a cane to the green part of the cane, using pruning shears. Check whether or not the pith -- the center of the cane -- is white. If the pith is brown, prune back the cane to its part that has a white pith.
Step 2
Cut away branches that are smaller in diameter than a pencil throughout the growing season. Make each cut at a 45-degree angle away from an outward-facing stem bud.
Step 3
Trim back stems that cross each other or may grow into each other when you notice the problem. Cut such a stem back to the main cane, leaving about 1/4 inch of the stem remaining. Use loppers or pruning shears.
Step 4
Cut the stem of each spent flower just below the first set of a five-leaf leaflet. Cut just below a seven-leaf leaflet if you want to reduce a rose bush's height. Removing spent flowers is called deadheading.
Step 5
Remove two or three center, old canes at the base of a crowded or overgrown rose bush by using loppers. This technique opens the bush's center, providing it better air circulation during the growing season.
1
1
文章
Miss Chen
2017年08月29日
Roses make a wonderful addition to any garden. If you are fortunate to come across a wild rose, you can easily transplant it to your own garden, adding beauty and uniqueness. With the right know-how and the proper tools, you can add this thriving plant to just about any setting.
Step 1
Find the plant you prefer. If you have a choice of multiple plants, look for one that is particularly healthy. Make sure you choose a plant that is the right size for your garden as well.
Step 2
Wait until the dormant season to transplant. Wild roses are best transplanted in their dormant season, sometime from November through February. You can of course try to transplant them during other parts of the year, but the dormant season gives the best results.
Step 3
Dig up the plant. Dig as deeply as you can to get as much of the long taproot as possible. Depending on the age of the plant, you may not be able to dig out the entire root. So long as you get most of the root, the plant should not suffer any damage if the root is cut. Wild roses also have numerous smaller roots. These can be trimmed if necessary.
Step 4
Transfer the plant to a large piece of plastic, a tarp or a large flower pot. Dig up some of the surrounding soil as well, and place it into the plastic or pot. This will help the rose acclimate to its new home.
Step 5
Dig a hole in your garden to accommodate the new rose. Dig deeply and add in some of the original soil and some humus or other organic material. This is very important for the rose's growth in the new growing season.
Step 6
Gently place the rose into the hole, and with a mixture of soil and organic material, fill the hole. Water the rose in well as this will help the transplant thrive. Add a mound of mulch around the base of the rose and wait until the spring for new growth.
Step 1
Find the plant you prefer. If you have a choice of multiple plants, look for one that is particularly healthy. Make sure you choose a plant that is the right size for your garden as well.
Step 2
Wait until the dormant season to transplant. Wild roses are best transplanted in their dormant season, sometime from November through February. You can of course try to transplant them during other parts of the year, but the dormant season gives the best results.
Step 3
Dig up the plant. Dig as deeply as you can to get as much of the long taproot as possible. Depending on the age of the plant, you may not be able to dig out the entire root. So long as you get most of the root, the plant should not suffer any damage if the root is cut. Wild roses also have numerous smaller roots. These can be trimmed if necessary.
Step 4
Transfer the plant to a large piece of plastic, a tarp or a large flower pot. Dig up some of the surrounding soil as well, and place it into the plastic or pot. This will help the rose acclimate to its new home.
Step 5
Dig a hole in your garden to accommodate the new rose. Dig deeply and add in some of the original soil and some humus or other organic material. This is very important for the rose's growth in the new growing season.
Step 6
Gently place the rose into the hole, and with a mixture of soil and organic material, fill the hole. Water the rose in well as this will help the transplant thrive. Add a mound of mulch around the base of the rose and wait until the spring for new growth.
1
1
文章
Miss Chen
2017年08月29日
If you live in a warm climate or in zones 8 through 11, you can prune your knockout roses in the winter. One season occurs in the spring and another in the fall. Pruning mature knockouts in the winter makes sense, but get expert advice from your local nursery or extension service. To prune knockouts in the winter, follow these suggestions.
Step 1
Prune only mature plants that are established and are 2 or 3 years old.
Step 2
Sharpen your clean pruning equipment and always cut at a 45-degree angle.
Step 3
Remove any thin canes or any diseased or damaged canes. If your temperature only rarely drops below freezing, you may have rose pests and eggs that do not die as they would in an area where it freezes hard. Be on the look out for insect damage and remove any canes that look questionable.
Step 4
Strip most of the leaves from the roses in the winter, which makes them vulnerable to pests, and spray with a horticultural oil.
Step 5
Activate the knockout into growth and blooming by pruning it back a little in the late winter before your first growing season in the spring.
Step 6
Keep the roses under control. If you want it smaller than the standard 3 x 4-foot tall size, prune it back in the late spring or early fall after it has bloomed. Be careful not to clip off flower buds.
Step 7
Remove dead or old canes during mild climates ideally, but this can be done at any time. Also cut very thin canes that might be coming up from the ground. You don't have to deadhead knockouts, but you can if you like to keep them looking groomed.
Step 8
Prune mature plants by using the 1/3 rule each year in the winter. Remove 1/3 of the oldest canes and any stems that are damaged, diseased or dead. This will keep the bush vibrant.
Step 1
Prune only mature plants that are established and are 2 or 3 years old.
Step 2
Sharpen your clean pruning equipment and always cut at a 45-degree angle.
Step 3
Remove any thin canes or any diseased or damaged canes. If your temperature only rarely drops below freezing, you may have rose pests and eggs that do not die as they would in an area where it freezes hard. Be on the look out for insect damage and remove any canes that look questionable.
Step 4
Strip most of the leaves from the roses in the winter, which makes them vulnerable to pests, and spray with a horticultural oil.
Step 5
Activate the knockout into growth and blooming by pruning it back a little in the late winter before your first growing season in the spring.
Step 6
Keep the roses under control. If you want it smaller than the standard 3 x 4-foot tall size, prune it back in the late spring or early fall after it has bloomed. Be careful not to clip off flower buds.
Step 7
Remove dead or old canes during mild climates ideally, but this can be done at any time. Also cut very thin canes that might be coming up from the ground. You don't have to deadhead knockouts, but you can if you like to keep them looking groomed.
Step 8
Prune mature plants by using the 1/3 rule each year in the winter. Remove 1/3 of the oldest canes and any stems that are damaged, diseased or dead. This will keep the bush vibrant.
0
0
文章
Miss Chen
2017年08月29日
Most cultivated rose varieties (Rosa spp.) are hybrids, rather than the natural "species" roses found growing in the wild. These wild rose species tend to grow vigorously, and require regular pruning to keep them in check. The best time for pruning wild roses is after they bloom. Wear gloves when pruning, because wild roses typically have many thorns.
Wild Roses
One wild rose so common it grows as a weed in some areas is the multiflora, or rambler, rose (Rosa multiflora). This plant grows in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 5 through 8, and may occasionally grow outside this range. It is considered an invasive plant, but can be kept under control by removing new canes that sprout up throughout the growing season. Other species roses that grow wild, but don't spread as fast, require less severe pruning. They may grow in USDA zones 2 through 11, depending on the species.
Pruning Goals
Most cultivated roses are grafted onto a host rootstock, but wild roses grow on their own roots and send up new canes directly from the soil rather than a graft union. When pruning these roses, the main goals are to remove dead or diseased canes and give the plant an attractive shape. To thin the rose clump, remove entire canes at soil level. To encourage new growth or shape the rose, cut canes at a 45-degree angle right above the place where a healthy leaf meets the cane. The leaf chosen should be growing outward from the center of the rose plant. When cutting flowers or pruning canes, remove only about 25 percent of the rose plant's height.
When to Prune
Most pruning for wild roses should be done after the plant flowers. This pruning focuses on removing unwanted shoots and choosing four to eight canes that will be allowed to grow and flower next year. Wild roses, including multiflora rose, bloom on last year's wood, so heavy pruning in the fall or spring would remove the canes that will produce blooms. In fall, remove spindly growth and root suckers that have developed over the summer. In spring, remove only canes that died over the winter.
Pruning Tips
Use a pair of clean, sharp pruning shears or a pruning knife when working with roses. After pruning, cover the cut ends with pruning paint or white glue to seal the ends of the canes, advises University of Illinois Extension. This helps prevent disease and insect infestation, particularly cane borers. It is a good precaution to disinfect pruning tools after each use, to prevent the spread of diseases among plants. Do this by soaking the tools in a solution of 1 part bleach to 3 parts water for five minutes. After soaking, rinse tools with clean water and allow them to air-dry before using or storing.
Wild Roses
One wild rose so common it grows as a weed in some areas is the multiflora, or rambler, rose (Rosa multiflora). This plant grows in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 5 through 8, and may occasionally grow outside this range. It is considered an invasive plant, but can be kept under control by removing new canes that sprout up throughout the growing season. Other species roses that grow wild, but don't spread as fast, require less severe pruning. They may grow in USDA zones 2 through 11, depending on the species.
Pruning Goals
Most cultivated roses are grafted onto a host rootstock, but wild roses grow on their own roots and send up new canes directly from the soil rather than a graft union. When pruning these roses, the main goals are to remove dead or diseased canes and give the plant an attractive shape. To thin the rose clump, remove entire canes at soil level. To encourage new growth or shape the rose, cut canes at a 45-degree angle right above the place where a healthy leaf meets the cane. The leaf chosen should be growing outward from the center of the rose plant. When cutting flowers or pruning canes, remove only about 25 percent of the rose plant's height.
When to Prune
Most pruning for wild roses should be done after the plant flowers. This pruning focuses on removing unwanted shoots and choosing four to eight canes that will be allowed to grow and flower next year. Wild roses, including multiflora rose, bloom on last year's wood, so heavy pruning in the fall or spring would remove the canes that will produce blooms. In fall, remove spindly growth and root suckers that have developed over the summer. In spring, remove only canes that died over the winter.
Pruning Tips
Use a pair of clean, sharp pruning shears or a pruning knife when working with roses. After pruning, cover the cut ends with pruning paint or white glue to seal the ends of the canes, advises University of Illinois Extension. This helps prevent disease and insect infestation, particularly cane borers. It is a good precaution to disinfect pruning tools after each use, to prevent the spread of diseases among plants. Do this by soaking the tools in a solution of 1 part bleach to 3 parts water for five minutes. After soaking, rinse tools with clean water and allow them to air-dry before using or storing.
0
0
文章
Miss Chen
2017年08月29日
Iceberg roses are one of the oldest and most beautiful of the climbing roses. The blooms are so white, they are almost blinding. However, they do not make good cut flowers for two reasons. Their stems are very thin, and they do not stand up well in a vase, and the blooms grow in clusters, so it is hard to cut without cutting off the new buds as well. But they make a spectacular display along a fence, on a trellis or over an arbor. These steps will help you with the pruning process.
Step 1
Understand that iceberg roses should be pruned in the spring, when there is no danger of frost. Iceberg roses are hardy in zones 4A to 9A, so the exact time will differ depending on where you live. Roses are resilient, but if frost gets into a new cut, the stem will die. In the worse cases, you could lose the whole plant. Iceberg roses then need to be pruned during the growing season, and once again in the fall when they are prepared for the winter.
Step 2
Keep in mind that spring pruning for iceberg roses is done in two different ways, depending on whether you want the roses to grow as shrubs about 3 to 4 feet tall, or grow taller as bushes. In order to make them grow as shrubs, you need to do hard pruning. This means cutting back the heavy wood more severely. But, this will keep the amount of flowers low.
Step 3
Know that if you use the one-third method, you will encourage the roses to grow taller. Remove just a third of the oldest growth. This will leave you enough woody growth for new shoots to sprout from. Now choose a third of the best from last year's growth to replace the old ones that you cut away and remove the rest.
Step 4
Remember that summer is the time to prune and shape the plant. Remove about a third of the flowering canes. Trim them short, to right above the five leaf section. There are two types of leaves on a rose plant. Some have three to a stem. Some have five. Look for the five. Also, remove the dead flowers, being careful not to cut off the close buds. Since iceberg roses grow in clusters, the new buds will be very close to the dead flowers. In the colder climates, do not prune too late in the summer. It will only make more growth, and you do not want it now.
Step 5
In warmer climates, you will need to do pruning in the winter as well. In late November or early December, cut them back to about 2 feet high if you want shrubs and 3 to 4 feet high if you want taller bushes. Always prune with the shape of the plant in mind.
Step 1
Understand that iceberg roses should be pruned in the spring, when there is no danger of frost. Iceberg roses are hardy in zones 4A to 9A, so the exact time will differ depending on where you live. Roses are resilient, but if frost gets into a new cut, the stem will die. In the worse cases, you could lose the whole plant. Iceberg roses then need to be pruned during the growing season, and once again in the fall when they are prepared for the winter.
Step 2
Keep in mind that spring pruning for iceberg roses is done in two different ways, depending on whether you want the roses to grow as shrubs about 3 to 4 feet tall, or grow taller as bushes. In order to make them grow as shrubs, you need to do hard pruning. This means cutting back the heavy wood more severely. But, this will keep the amount of flowers low.
Step 3
Know that if you use the one-third method, you will encourage the roses to grow taller. Remove just a third of the oldest growth. This will leave you enough woody growth for new shoots to sprout from. Now choose a third of the best from last year's growth to replace the old ones that you cut away and remove the rest.
Step 4
Remember that summer is the time to prune and shape the plant. Remove about a third of the flowering canes. Trim them short, to right above the five leaf section. There are two types of leaves on a rose plant. Some have three to a stem. Some have five. Look for the five. Also, remove the dead flowers, being careful not to cut off the close buds. Since iceberg roses grow in clusters, the new buds will be very close to the dead flowers. In the colder climates, do not prune too late in the summer. It will only make more growth, and you do not want it now.
Step 5
In warmer climates, you will need to do pruning in the winter as well. In late November or early December, cut them back to about 2 feet high if you want shrubs and 3 to 4 feet high if you want taller bushes. Always prune with the shape of the plant in mind.
0
0
文章
Miss Chen
2017年08月29日
Roses should be pruned each year to keep the plant healthy and promote the fullest and best blooms. If your rose bush has been neglected, it may not be too late to return it to a healthy status. Once you have cut out all of the old, dead or diseased canes, the plant gains increased air flow and you gain a healthy bush with blooms to enjoy throughout the growing season.
Preparation
Step 1
Put on a long-sleeved shirt to protect your arms from the thorns on the plant.
Step 2
Wear thorn-resistant gloves. Leather or coated gloves are good choices.
Step 3
Dip the blades of your pruning equipment into hydrogen peroxide to disinfect the blades before beginning.
Procedures
Step 4
Cut an area out of the side of the bush with hand pruners to allow access to the center of the plant.
Step 5
Reach into the center of the plant to cut out dead or dried-out canes.
Step 6
Cut out all dead canes at the base of the plant. Use the loppers for the thicker canes and the hand pruners for the smaller canes.
Step 7
Select one-third of the remaining strong canes to stay on the plant. The canes should be about the diameter of a pencil. Remove the rest of the canes using the hand pruners.
Step 8
Cut the remaining canes down by one-half to two-thirds of the plant. Cut the stems about 1/4 inch above an outward facing leaf bud at a 45-degree angle. The cut should slant away from the bud. Apply wood glue to the cut stems to seal them and prevent wood borers from getting inside the stems.
Step 9
Trim all leaves from the remaining stems. Dig down to the root to remove any suckers. Tear them off where they originate to prevent additional suckers from growing.
Step 10
Clean up any leaves that drop to the ground around the base of the plant to prevent the spread of fungal disease that may be present in the leaves. Apply rose plant food around the base of the plant.
Preparation
Step 1
Put on a long-sleeved shirt to protect your arms from the thorns on the plant.
Step 2
Wear thorn-resistant gloves. Leather or coated gloves are good choices.
Step 3
Dip the blades of your pruning equipment into hydrogen peroxide to disinfect the blades before beginning.
Procedures
Step 4
Cut an area out of the side of the bush with hand pruners to allow access to the center of the plant.
Step 5
Reach into the center of the plant to cut out dead or dried-out canes.
Step 6
Cut out all dead canes at the base of the plant. Use the loppers for the thicker canes and the hand pruners for the smaller canes.
Step 7
Select one-third of the remaining strong canes to stay on the plant. The canes should be about the diameter of a pencil. Remove the rest of the canes using the hand pruners.
Step 8
Cut the remaining canes down by one-half to two-thirds of the plant. Cut the stems about 1/4 inch above an outward facing leaf bud at a 45-degree angle. The cut should slant away from the bud. Apply wood glue to the cut stems to seal them and prevent wood borers from getting inside the stems.
Step 9
Trim all leaves from the remaining stems. Dig down to the root to remove any suckers. Tear them off where they originate to prevent additional suckers from growing.
Step 10
Clean up any leaves that drop to the ground around the base of the plant to prevent the spread of fungal disease that may be present in the leaves. Apply rose plant food around the base of the plant.
0
0
