文章
Miss Chen
2017年08月29日
Climbing roses are a great way to add new dimension--and height--to your yard or garden. They are typically easier to care for and more vigorous than other roses. If you have grown roses before, understand that caring for climbing roses is not exactly the same as caring for other types of roses. Although some of their requirements are similar, many things are different.
Step 1
Plant climbers in an area that receives plenty of sun. While some climbers will do well in partial shade--even up to half a day of shade--most need plenty of light. In general, lighter colored climbing roses will be more tolerant to shade the darker-colored roses.
Step 2
Amend clay and sandy soils with compost, manure, mulch or peat moss. Or plant the roses in an area that has rich, loamy soil with good drainage.
Step 3
Cover soil with 2 to 4 inches of organic mulch such as straw, pine needles, buckwheat hulIs, ground corn cobs, peat moss, wood chips, shredded bark, cottonseed/cocoa bean hulls, chopped leaves, peat nuggets or grass clippings. This will keep the soil moist and the roots cool. Mulch in the spring while the rose bush is still dormant.
Step 4
Water climbing roses, if necessary, so that they get at least 1 inch of water per week and 2 inches of water if planted in sandy soil. Water in the morning and avoid wetting the leaves to prevent fungus problems.
Step 5
Fertilize in the spring after pruning. Use a dry, commercial rose fertilizer that has a slow release form of nitrogen. Apply about 1/2-cup to the soil. During the summer, apply a foliar spray of diluted liquid fertilizer (50 percent strength) every 3 to 4 weeks up until 6 weeks before the first frost is expected.
Step 6
Support climbing roses by tying the canes to a trellis, frame or similar structure. Tie them loosely with string, soft cloth or plastic. Climbing roses do not have tendrils or suckers like vines, so they require external supports to grow vigorous. If possible, allow your roses to grow horizontally, than vertically, as they will produce more flowers.
Step 7
Prune roses once they are at least 3 to 4 years old. In the spring, remove any dead wood, weak canes and any canes to avoid overcrowding or crossing. You will only need to prune every other year, although hardy climbers can be pruned every year. Your goal in pruning is to keep the roses in the area you want and ensure that only strong canes remain, not to limit its growth. Use only sharp, clean pruning shears and make slanting cuts about 1/4 inch above a growth bud.
Step 8
Deadhead roses by removing any spent flowers. Cut back the stem to a leaflet or a bud with 5 leaves.
Step 9
Protect climbing roses in the winter if you live in an area where temperatures frequently get and stay below freezing. For the best results, remove the canes from their support and cover them with soil. If you can't remove them from their supports, make sure they are securely tied and cover them with a burlap screen or similar material. Also, cover the base of the plant with soil or mulch.
Step 1
Plant climbers in an area that receives plenty of sun. While some climbers will do well in partial shade--even up to half a day of shade--most need plenty of light. In general, lighter colored climbing roses will be more tolerant to shade the darker-colored roses.
Step 2
Amend clay and sandy soils with compost, manure, mulch or peat moss. Or plant the roses in an area that has rich, loamy soil with good drainage.
Step 3
Cover soil with 2 to 4 inches of organic mulch such as straw, pine needles, buckwheat hulIs, ground corn cobs, peat moss, wood chips, shredded bark, cottonseed/cocoa bean hulls, chopped leaves, peat nuggets or grass clippings. This will keep the soil moist and the roots cool. Mulch in the spring while the rose bush is still dormant.
Step 4
Water climbing roses, if necessary, so that they get at least 1 inch of water per week and 2 inches of water if planted in sandy soil. Water in the morning and avoid wetting the leaves to prevent fungus problems.
Step 5
Fertilize in the spring after pruning. Use a dry, commercial rose fertilizer that has a slow release form of nitrogen. Apply about 1/2-cup to the soil. During the summer, apply a foliar spray of diluted liquid fertilizer (50 percent strength) every 3 to 4 weeks up until 6 weeks before the first frost is expected.
Step 6
Support climbing roses by tying the canes to a trellis, frame or similar structure. Tie them loosely with string, soft cloth or plastic. Climbing roses do not have tendrils or suckers like vines, so they require external supports to grow vigorous. If possible, allow your roses to grow horizontally, than vertically, as they will produce more flowers.
Step 7
Prune roses once they are at least 3 to 4 years old. In the spring, remove any dead wood, weak canes and any canes to avoid overcrowding or crossing. You will only need to prune every other year, although hardy climbers can be pruned every year. Your goal in pruning is to keep the roses in the area you want and ensure that only strong canes remain, not to limit its growth. Use only sharp, clean pruning shears and make slanting cuts about 1/4 inch above a growth bud.
Step 8
Deadhead roses by removing any spent flowers. Cut back the stem to a leaflet or a bud with 5 leaves.
Step 9
Protect climbing roses in the winter if you live in an area where temperatures frequently get and stay below freezing. For the best results, remove the canes from their support and cover them with soil. If you can't remove them from their supports, make sure they are securely tied and cover them with a burlap screen or similar material. Also, cover the base of the plant with soil or mulch.
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文章
Miss Chen
2017年08月29日
Miniature roses may look delicate with their tiny blooms, but they are a surprisingly hardy plant. Although they have been bred specifically to curtail their size, they retain much of the hardiness of rose bushes that tower over them in size. Many can be grown outside year round in zones 6 through 10 and will survive to zone 4 if heavily mulched and protected from winter weather. Their size makes them ideal as houseplants that thrive on sunny windowsills.
Step 1
Plant miniature roses in all-purpose potting soil. Provide adequate drainage by covering the drainage holes with pebbles or broken shards from clay pots.
Step 2
Grow on a sunny windowsill. Some require supplemental lighting. Watch your roses for signs of inadequate light. If the stems stretch leaving bare spaces between leaves, it may be an indication that the rose bush is reaching for more light. A miniature rose should be short and compact with full foliage.
Step 3
Pinch out new growth to encourage the plant to bush out. This creates a full plant with abundant foliage. If the plant still stretches for light, you may need to add supplemental lighting. You can purchase grow lights for plants at your local hardware or garden supply store.
Step 4
Place the pot on a pebble tray. Add water to cover the pebbles. The bottom of the pot should rest above the water level. As the water evaporates, it will provide your miniature rose with the added humidity it desires.
Step 5
Keep the soil moist, but avoid soggy soil. Allow the soil to dry slightly between waterings.
Step 6
Fertilize with a water-soluble fertilizer designed for roses. Mix the solution to quarter-strength and use to water the rose every seven to 10 days from March until November. Allow the plant to rest during the winter months and resume fertilizing in the spring.
Step 7
Deadhead spent blooms to encourage the rose bush to continue blooming. Removing the flowers before they can set seed; this tricks the plant into thinking it has not produced enough blooms.
Step 1
Plant miniature roses in all-purpose potting soil. Provide adequate drainage by covering the drainage holes with pebbles or broken shards from clay pots.
Step 2
Grow on a sunny windowsill. Some require supplemental lighting. Watch your roses for signs of inadequate light. If the stems stretch leaving bare spaces between leaves, it may be an indication that the rose bush is reaching for more light. A miniature rose should be short and compact with full foliage.
Step 3
Pinch out new growth to encourage the plant to bush out. This creates a full plant with abundant foliage. If the plant still stretches for light, you may need to add supplemental lighting. You can purchase grow lights for plants at your local hardware or garden supply store.
Step 4
Place the pot on a pebble tray. Add water to cover the pebbles. The bottom of the pot should rest above the water level. As the water evaporates, it will provide your miniature rose with the added humidity it desires.
Step 5
Keep the soil moist, but avoid soggy soil. Allow the soil to dry slightly between waterings.
Step 6
Fertilize with a water-soluble fertilizer designed for roses. Mix the solution to quarter-strength and use to water the rose every seven to 10 days from March until November. Allow the plant to rest during the winter months and resume fertilizing in the spring.
Step 7
Deadhead spent blooms to encourage the rose bush to continue blooming. Removing the flowers before they can set seed; this tricks the plant into thinking it has not produced enough blooms.
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文章
Miss Chen
2017年08月29日
Rose bushes (Rosa spp.) must be pruned at least once or twice each year. Heavy pruning is done in winter or, in some climates, early spring. Roses are hardy in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 2 through 11, depending on the species. Prune the roses again in summer or fall right after they bloom to tidy them up and encourage new cane growth. Roses that produce flowers in spring and again in fall bloom more profusely in fall when pruned right after their spring bloom cycle.
The Right Pruning Tool
Use sharp, scissor-type hand pruners to prune roses. Pour household disinfectant over the open hand pruner blades, and let it sit on them for a few minutes to sterilize them, preventing the spread of plant diseases. Rinse off the disinfectant with clear water, and dry the blades with a clean towel. Disinfectant can harm rose stem tissue.
Basics for All Roses
Deadhead, or remove, all remaining faded blooms. Do so by cutting each faded flower's stem ¼ inch above the first set of five leaflets. A flower stem cut higher than that point produces weak new stem growth that either will not have flowers or will have flowers that are smaller than normal.
Prune off all dead, diseased or crossing stems whenever you notice them throughout the growing season. Make each of those cuts at the base of a stem.
Make each pruning cut on a healthy rose cane or stem ¼ inch above a growth bud, which is usually where there are five leaflets. Also make each cut at a 45-degree angle parallel to the growth bud. Buds facing outward produce stems that grow away from the bush's center. Buds facing inward produce stems that grow toward the bush's center. Do not make a cut at too sharp of an angle or too close to the growth bud. A bud damaged by pruning does not grow a new stem.
Insect and Disease Protections
Seal the cut ends of stems that are wider than a pencil by using white household glue to keep out boring insects. Throw dead flowers and stem trimmings in the trash. Leaving them in the garden provides a growing environment for fungal and bacterial diseases that can infect rose bushes.
Shrub and Old Garden Roses
Shrub roses and antique or old garden roses should be trimmed to about two-thirds their heights when they finish blooming. This method is especially important for roses that bloom only once annually, in spring or summer. They bloom on "old wood," or stems that grew the previous year. Pruning them later in the growing season results in less stem growth and reduced blooming the following year.
Climbing Roses
Climbing roses should not be pruned until they are 2 to 3 years old. The stems that produce flowers on climbing roses are called lateral stems. After a climber finishes blooming, use hand pruners to cut each lateral stem ¼ inch above the second or third growth bud. Ever-blooming climbers need to have their old, woody canes completely removed. Those canes are 2 to 3 years old and brown or tan at their bases. Adjust the position of the remaining canes so they are spread evenly across the bushes' support structure. Once-blooming climbers and ramblers need to have their dead, weak or unproductive canes cut back to healthy, white tissue.
All Other Types of Roses
All other roses, including hybrid teas, should be trimmed only lightly after they bloom. Remove their spent blooms with disinfected hand pruners. Trim all their stems about only a few inches, just enough to give the bushes a neater appearance.
The Right Pruning Tool
Use sharp, scissor-type hand pruners to prune roses. Pour household disinfectant over the open hand pruner blades, and let it sit on them for a few minutes to sterilize them, preventing the spread of plant diseases. Rinse off the disinfectant with clear water, and dry the blades with a clean towel. Disinfectant can harm rose stem tissue.
Basics for All Roses
Deadhead, or remove, all remaining faded blooms. Do so by cutting each faded flower's stem ¼ inch above the first set of five leaflets. A flower stem cut higher than that point produces weak new stem growth that either will not have flowers or will have flowers that are smaller than normal.
Prune off all dead, diseased or crossing stems whenever you notice them throughout the growing season. Make each of those cuts at the base of a stem.
Make each pruning cut on a healthy rose cane or stem ¼ inch above a growth bud, which is usually where there are five leaflets. Also make each cut at a 45-degree angle parallel to the growth bud. Buds facing outward produce stems that grow away from the bush's center. Buds facing inward produce stems that grow toward the bush's center. Do not make a cut at too sharp of an angle or too close to the growth bud. A bud damaged by pruning does not grow a new stem.
Insect and Disease Protections
Seal the cut ends of stems that are wider than a pencil by using white household glue to keep out boring insects. Throw dead flowers and stem trimmings in the trash. Leaving them in the garden provides a growing environment for fungal and bacterial diseases that can infect rose bushes.
Shrub and Old Garden Roses
Shrub roses and antique or old garden roses should be trimmed to about two-thirds their heights when they finish blooming. This method is especially important for roses that bloom only once annually, in spring or summer. They bloom on "old wood," or stems that grew the previous year. Pruning them later in the growing season results in less stem growth and reduced blooming the following year.
Climbing Roses
Climbing roses should not be pruned until they are 2 to 3 years old. The stems that produce flowers on climbing roses are called lateral stems. After a climber finishes blooming, use hand pruners to cut each lateral stem ¼ inch above the second or third growth bud. Ever-blooming climbers need to have their old, woody canes completely removed. Those canes are 2 to 3 years old and brown or tan at their bases. Adjust the position of the remaining canes so they are spread evenly across the bushes' support structure. Once-blooming climbers and ramblers need to have their dead, weak or unproductive canes cut back to healthy, white tissue.
All Other Types of Roses
All other roses, including hybrid teas, should be trimmed only lightly after they bloom. Remove their spent blooms with disinfected hand pruners. Trim all their stems about only a few inches, just enough to give the bushes a neater appearance.
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文章
Miss Chen
2017年08月29日
True black roses do not exist in nature. Although many roses carry the word "black" in their name, such as Black Jade and Black Prince, they are really just roses that are a very deep, dark red in color. The most popular type of "black" rose is the Black Jade. For tips on how to grow a Black Jade, follow the tips below. For tips on how to make your roses really black, check out the "Tips" section at the end of the article.
Step 1
Plant your rose bush in sandy soil that has been loosened. If your soil is heavy with clay, add some sand or organic mulch. The location should be in partial shade. Dig a hole about 4 inches wider than the root ball and as deep as the top of the base of the plant. Pack the soil loosely around the plant and water.
Step 2
Keep the soil just barely moist. During hot weather, water at least three times per week. Do not let water stand, as this could lead to mold growth.
Step 3
Add a fertilizer made especially for roses as per the directions on the bag. Most fertilizers are used at the start of the growing season (early spring) and once in the middle of the growing season (mid-summer).
Step 4
Prune your rose bush in the winter. January or February is best. Prune all the way down so that there are only 4 to 6 inches left on each stem.
Step 5
Watch for brown spots on the petals or leaves. These roses are quite fragile and vulnerable to fungus. Remove any spotted leaves and treat with a fungicide immediately.
Step 1
Plant your rose bush in sandy soil that has been loosened. If your soil is heavy with clay, add some sand or organic mulch. The location should be in partial shade. Dig a hole about 4 inches wider than the root ball and as deep as the top of the base of the plant. Pack the soil loosely around the plant and water.
Step 2
Keep the soil just barely moist. During hot weather, water at least three times per week. Do not let water stand, as this could lead to mold growth.
Step 3
Add a fertilizer made especially for roses as per the directions on the bag. Most fertilizers are used at the start of the growing season (early spring) and once in the middle of the growing season (mid-summer).
Step 4
Prune your rose bush in the winter. January or February is best. Prune all the way down so that there are only 4 to 6 inches left on each stem.
Step 5
Watch for brown spots on the petals or leaves. These roses are quite fragile and vulnerable to fungus. Remove any spotted leaves and treat with a fungicide immediately.
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文章
Miss Chen
2017年08月29日
If you're wondering whether your rose bush (Rosa spp.) is dead or alive, you're not alone. Roses go dormant over winter, and most look fairly dead by the time spring rolls around. Even if all of a rose's stems, or canes, look dry and black, the rose still might be alive.
Roses are hardy in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 2 through 11, depending on the variety, and many survive winter even if part of them dies back. Several methods can be used to check whether or not a rose bush is still alive in spring. You can also use these methods if you wonder whether or not a rose was killed by a disease or other problem.
Wait for Leaves
The simplest way to determine whether a rose is alive or dead is to wait to see if it sprouts leaves. Watch the plant carefully to see if leaf buds form along the stems. If they do, then you'll know what parts of the plant are dead and what parts are alive. Once you can see swollen leaf buds, begin spring pruning to remove dead wood.
Check for Green
If you don't want to wait for leaves to sprout or you haven't noticed signs of the rose's life in spring, then check whether or not any parts of the rose canes are still alive. First, pull away any winter protection from the base of the plant. Starting midway down a cane, use a sterilized pruning knife to scrape away the outer layer of bark. If the cane is alive, you'll see a green layer under the bark. If the cane is dead, the inner layer will be brown. Keep using the knife periodically down the cane until you either find a green layer or reach the base of the plant. If you don't find green on any canes, then the rose bush is most likely dead.
Inspect Roots
Even if their upper canes are dead, some roses can come back from the roots. This fact depends on whether or not the roses are grafted. Some rose bush tops are grafted onto more vigorous root stocks to provide increased hardiness. Grafted roses include many hybrid roses, such as the cultivar 'Hotel California' (Rosa 'Hotel California,' USDA zones 5 through 9). Other roses are grown on their own roots. They include the Knock Out rose 'Radrazz' (Rosa 'Radrazz', USDA zones 4 through 9).
A grafted rose is considered dead if all the stems above the graft union are dead. The rose may still sprout from the roots, but it will not be the same kind of rose bush it was previously. Instead, it will be whatever rose species was used as its root stock, and it may not even bloom. Roses growing on their own roots, however, can still come back from the roots. Before removing those plants, wait until late spring or early summer to see if they sprout new shoots.
Roses are hardy in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 2 through 11, depending on the variety, and many survive winter even if part of them dies back. Several methods can be used to check whether or not a rose bush is still alive in spring. You can also use these methods if you wonder whether or not a rose was killed by a disease or other problem.
Wait for Leaves
The simplest way to determine whether a rose is alive or dead is to wait to see if it sprouts leaves. Watch the plant carefully to see if leaf buds form along the stems. If they do, then you'll know what parts of the plant are dead and what parts are alive. Once you can see swollen leaf buds, begin spring pruning to remove dead wood.
Check for Green
If you don't want to wait for leaves to sprout or you haven't noticed signs of the rose's life in spring, then check whether or not any parts of the rose canes are still alive. First, pull away any winter protection from the base of the plant. Starting midway down a cane, use a sterilized pruning knife to scrape away the outer layer of bark. If the cane is alive, you'll see a green layer under the bark. If the cane is dead, the inner layer will be brown. Keep using the knife periodically down the cane until you either find a green layer or reach the base of the plant. If you don't find green on any canes, then the rose bush is most likely dead.
Inspect Roots
Even if their upper canes are dead, some roses can come back from the roots. This fact depends on whether or not the roses are grafted. Some rose bush tops are grafted onto more vigorous root stocks to provide increased hardiness. Grafted roses include many hybrid roses, such as the cultivar 'Hotel California' (Rosa 'Hotel California,' USDA zones 5 through 9). Other roses are grown on their own roots. They include the Knock Out rose 'Radrazz' (Rosa 'Radrazz', USDA zones 4 through 9).
A grafted rose is considered dead if all the stems above the graft union are dead. The rose may still sprout from the roots, but it will not be the same kind of rose bush it was previously. Instead, it will be whatever rose species was used as its root stock, and it may not even bloom. Roses growing on their own roots, however, can still come back from the roots. Before removing those plants, wait until late spring or early summer to see if they sprout new shoots.
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文章
Miss Chen
2017年08月29日
White spots on roses are caused by fungal disease and insect activity. The white spots are usually visible on the surface of flower, leaves or stem, but sometimes they are not so apparent. That is why it is important to look on the underside of leaves. Sometimes, insects hide at the base of the flower. Gardeners should discard diseased or damaged plant material and maintain good air circulation, according to "American Horticultural Society Practical Guides: Roses" by Linden Hawthorne (see Resources).
Mildew
White spots on roses are often caused by powdery mildew, a fungus disease that affects the surface of leaves. The white mildew is spread by the wind and develops during humid periods, according to the University of Illinois Extension website. Mildew is reduced with water, sanitation, fungicide spray and pruning.
Aphids
Some forms of aphids take on a waxy cast that make them appear as white spots on roses. Integrated Pest Management at the University of California says aphids suck the sap from plants and are usually harmless. If too many aphids are present on the rose plants, they can cause the leaves to turn yellow and curl, so check plants often.
Scale
Other insects called scale can cause white spots on roses. Scale looks like oyster shell and appear white as eggs and nymphs. Pruning of damaged branches is recommended by Plant Answers.
Leaf Hopper
The Leaf Hopper is a grey, green or yellow insect that measures 1/4 to 1/2 inch in length. Some forms of the bug feed on the underside of leaves that causes a white stippling pattern, according to the Texas Agriculture Extension Service.
Sun Scorch
White spots can appear on roses when the plants receive too much sunlight or heat. The Master Gardeners of The Southwest View News describe the problem as sun scorch, a form of sun bleaching that can kill leaves. Climbing roses are also susceptible to sun scorch when excess heat radiates off support walls and hits the back of plants.
Mildew
White spots on roses are often caused by powdery mildew, a fungus disease that affects the surface of leaves. The white mildew is spread by the wind and develops during humid periods, according to the University of Illinois Extension website. Mildew is reduced with water, sanitation, fungicide spray and pruning.
Aphids
Some forms of aphids take on a waxy cast that make them appear as white spots on roses. Integrated Pest Management at the University of California says aphids suck the sap from plants and are usually harmless. If too many aphids are present on the rose plants, they can cause the leaves to turn yellow and curl, so check plants often.
Scale
Other insects called scale can cause white spots on roses. Scale looks like oyster shell and appear white as eggs and nymphs. Pruning of damaged branches is recommended by Plant Answers.
Leaf Hopper
The Leaf Hopper is a grey, green or yellow insect that measures 1/4 to 1/2 inch in length. Some forms of the bug feed on the underside of leaves that causes a white stippling pattern, according to the Texas Agriculture Extension Service.
Sun Scorch
White spots can appear on roses when the plants receive too much sunlight or heat. The Master Gardeners of The Southwest View News describe the problem as sun scorch, a form of sun bleaching that can kill leaves. Climbing roses are also susceptible to sun scorch when excess heat radiates off support walls and hits the back of plants.
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文章
Miss Chen
2017年08月29日
As one of the most celebrated flowering shrubs of all time, roses (Rosa spp.) come in a wide assortment, boasting blooms of almost every color. Depending on the cultivar, roses are hardy in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 2 through 10. They bloom year after year if growers follow pruning guidelines that keep the plants healthy. Pruning, or cutting back the bushes, encourages blooming and promotes new growth.
Pruning Cues
A rose bush's class determines when the bush should be pruned. The two classes of roses are those that repeatedly bloom all summer and those that bloom once.
Repeat-blooming roses require an annual pruning between mid-February and mid-April, based on their location. Rosarians suggest pruning roses when forsythia bushes (Forsythia spp.) start blooming. An alternate rule of thumb is to start pruning when new rose buds form and begin to swell.
Old-fashioned and climbing roses bloom once each year and need pruning after they bloom sometime in early summer. This class of roses produces blossoms on existing stems rather than new growth.
Apart from annual pruning, any stem or wood that is diseased or dying should be removed immediately throughout the year.
Pruning Necessities
Several tools and other items are needed for pruning roses. Ensure each tool's cutting blade is sharp and sterilized with 70 percent rubbing alcohol. Dip small tools in a container filled with rubbing alcohol, and then dry the tools with a clean cloth. Wipe large tools thoroughly with a soft cloth soaked with rubbing alcohol, and use a clean cloth to dry them.
The tools and items needed for pruning are: • Bypass pruning shears that cut like scissors. • Long-handled lopping shears. • Pruning saw for thick, old stems. • Heavy gloves to protect your hands. • White, water-based school glue.
Pruning Techniques
Some pruning tasks are applicable to all roses. For example, make 45-degree angle cuts each time, and periodically sterilize your tools with alcohol as you prune. Also:
• Remove damaged wood stems by cutting each at least 1 inch below darkened wood, leaving green wood with a white center. If the center is tan, continue cutting down the branch until the pith is white. The cut also should be ¼ inch above a bud that faces outward rather than toward the bush's center. • Remove branches that grow toward the center of the bush. This technique opens the center for air and light, and reduces the chances for diseases. • Identify branches that cross each other or rub together. Remove the weakest branch of two such branches. • Remove all branches that are smaller in diameter than a pencil. • Remove suckers from the root base. Dig into the soil to find where suckers originate, and remove them. • Seal all cuts with a thin layer of white, water-based school glue to prevent borers from attacking.
On Oct. 1, all pruning tasks should cease so that rose plants have the opportunity to harden off for winter.
Pruning for Blooms
Repeat-blooming roses can be pruned to a uniform height of 12 to 24 inches. Leave nine to 12 healthy stems that are at least ½ inch in diameter. If you want larger blooms for cut flowers, then prune the bushes to no taller than 15 inches; the plants will produce fewer flowers, but the flowers will be larger. Cut off the spent blooms of repeat-blooming roses throughout summer, cutting each faded bloom down to the first outward-facing rosebud with five leaflets. Removing spent blooms is called deadheading.
Once-blooming roses, such as old-fashioned and most climbing varieties, do not require severe pruning. Do not remove more than one-third of each plant. Cut away only dead, damaged and unproductive stems. The remaining branches will produce next year's blooms. Deadhead once-blooming roses by removing only their spent petals, leaving their rose hips intact.
Rose hips come from rose blossoms. They are small, round fruits that mature in fall, turning red, orange, burgundy, scarlet or yellow. They are edible for humans and wildlife and offer a showy display in winter.
Pruning Cues
A rose bush's class determines when the bush should be pruned. The two classes of roses are those that repeatedly bloom all summer and those that bloom once.
Repeat-blooming roses require an annual pruning between mid-February and mid-April, based on their location. Rosarians suggest pruning roses when forsythia bushes (Forsythia spp.) start blooming. An alternate rule of thumb is to start pruning when new rose buds form and begin to swell.
Old-fashioned and climbing roses bloom once each year and need pruning after they bloom sometime in early summer. This class of roses produces blossoms on existing stems rather than new growth.
Apart from annual pruning, any stem or wood that is diseased or dying should be removed immediately throughout the year.
Pruning Necessities
Several tools and other items are needed for pruning roses. Ensure each tool's cutting blade is sharp and sterilized with 70 percent rubbing alcohol. Dip small tools in a container filled with rubbing alcohol, and then dry the tools with a clean cloth. Wipe large tools thoroughly with a soft cloth soaked with rubbing alcohol, and use a clean cloth to dry them.
The tools and items needed for pruning are: • Bypass pruning shears that cut like scissors. • Long-handled lopping shears. • Pruning saw for thick, old stems. • Heavy gloves to protect your hands. • White, water-based school glue.
Pruning Techniques
Some pruning tasks are applicable to all roses. For example, make 45-degree angle cuts each time, and periodically sterilize your tools with alcohol as you prune. Also:
• Remove damaged wood stems by cutting each at least 1 inch below darkened wood, leaving green wood with a white center. If the center is tan, continue cutting down the branch until the pith is white. The cut also should be ¼ inch above a bud that faces outward rather than toward the bush's center. • Remove branches that grow toward the center of the bush. This technique opens the center for air and light, and reduces the chances for diseases. • Identify branches that cross each other or rub together. Remove the weakest branch of two such branches. • Remove all branches that are smaller in diameter than a pencil. • Remove suckers from the root base. Dig into the soil to find where suckers originate, and remove them. • Seal all cuts with a thin layer of white, water-based school glue to prevent borers from attacking.
On Oct. 1, all pruning tasks should cease so that rose plants have the opportunity to harden off for winter.
Pruning for Blooms
Repeat-blooming roses can be pruned to a uniform height of 12 to 24 inches. Leave nine to 12 healthy stems that are at least ½ inch in diameter. If you want larger blooms for cut flowers, then prune the bushes to no taller than 15 inches; the plants will produce fewer flowers, but the flowers will be larger. Cut off the spent blooms of repeat-blooming roses throughout summer, cutting each faded bloom down to the first outward-facing rosebud with five leaflets. Removing spent blooms is called deadheading.
Once-blooming roses, such as old-fashioned and most climbing varieties, do not require severe pruning. Do not remove more than one-third of each plant. Cut away only dead, damaged and unproductive stems. The remaining branches will produce next year's blooms. Deadhead once-blooming roses by removing only their spent petals, leaving their rose hips intact.
Rose hips come from rose blossoms. They are small, round fruits that mature in fall, turning red, orange, burgundy, scarlet or yellow. They are edible for humans and wildlife and offer a showy display in winter.
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文章
Miss Chen
2017年08月29日
Tree roses are not trees but roses that have been grafted onto a trunk that has been grafted onto a rose rootstock. While they look exotic, tree roses have the same growing requirements as regular roses and are bothered by the same pests and diseases. Tree roses come in two shapes, a compact lollipop or a weeping form. The grafts of both forms need to be protected from swaying in strong winds and winter damage because of freezing temperatures. Tree roses create an interesting look in an otherwise blah area of your garden, and with care, can thrive for years.
Growing a tree rose
Step 1
Select a tree rose cultivar hardy in your zone. If you don't live in a hardiness area, tree roses may be grown in containers and overwintered indoors. Tree roses should be planted in spring after the danger of frost has passed.
Step 2
Choose a spot of well-drained soil with a pH of 6.0 to 7.0. The site should receive at least six hours of full sun a day. Eastern exposure is best as the morning sun evaporates dew from the leaves, but a southern or western exposure also will work. Avoid northern exposures.
Step 3
Dig a hole twice as wide and deep as your tree rose's root ball. Mix the soil removed from the hole with compost until you have a 50/50 mix of soil and compost. Refill the hole with the compost-soil mix until it is just large enough to accommodate the root ball and places the graft between the rootstock and the trunk stock 2 to 3 inches above the soil.
Step 4
Place the tree rose in the hole and backfill with soil. Make sure the tree rose remains straight as you fill the hole.
Step 5
Insert a stake into the soil just outside the root ball. Attach the tree rose to the stake with at least two elasticized tree ties. Place the ties 2 to 4 inches above the graft between the root stock and the trunk stock and 1 to 2 inches below the graft between the trunk stock and the rose.
Step 6
Apply mulch 1 to 3 inches deep around your tree rose. Pull it back from the trunk to prevent damage. Make sure the mulch does not cover the graft between the root stock and the trunk stock.
Step 7
If you are growing your tree rose in a container, place rocks or pieces of broken clay pots in the bottom of the container. Fill the container, sized for your mature tree rose, with a general-use potting soil. Plant and stake the tree rose as you would in the garden.
Step 8
Deadhead your tree rose when blooms fade. In the spring, just after bud break, prune off dead and broken branches. Prune back foliage that has powdery mildew or black spot.
Step 9
Give your tree rose a deep watering three to four times a week. Water the soil around the tree rose. Do not get the foliage wet as this will promote powdery mildew and black spot.
Step 10
Fertilize your tree rose three times a year -- in early spring when flower buds are swelling, again just after your tree rose begins to flower and then in late summer after most of the blooms have faded. Use a liquid rose food; follow package directions for rate of application.
Step 11
When your tree rose loses its leaves in the fall, wrap the entire plant with burlap, leave the top open and secure with twine. Or you can just dig up your tree rose and store it in dampened peat moss in a warm garage or basement. If your tree rose is planted in a container, bring the container inside for the winter.
Growing a tree rose
Step 1
Select a tree rose cultivar hardy in your zone. If you don't live in a hardiness area, tree roses may be grown in containers and overwintered indoors. Tree roses should be planted in spring after the danger of frost has passed.
Step 2
Choose a spot of well-drained soil with a pH of 6.0 to 7.0. The site should receive at least six hours of full sun a day. Eastern exposure is best as the morning sun evaporates dew from the leaves, but a southern or western exposure also will work. Avoid northern exposures.
Step 3
Dig a hole twice as wide and deep as your tree rose's root ball. Mix the soil removed from the hole with compost until you have a 50/50 mix of soil and compost. Refill the hole with the compost-soil mix until it is just large enough to accommodate the root ball and places the graft between the rootstock and the trunk stock 2 to 3 inches above the soil.
Step 4
Place the tree rose in the hole and backfill with soil. Make sure the tree rose remains straight as you fill the hole.
Step 5
Insert a stake into the soil just outside the root ball. Attach the tree rose to the stake with at least two elasticized tree ties. Place the ties 2 to 4 inches above the graft between the root stock and the trunk stock and 1 to 2 inches below the graft between the trunk stock and the rose.
Step 6
Apply mulch 1 to 3 inches deep around your tree rose. Pull it back from the trunk to prevent damage. Make sure the mulch does not cover the graft between the root stock and the trunk stock.
Step 7
If you are growing your tree rose in a container, place rocks or pieces of broken clay pots in the bottom of the container. Fill the container, sized for your mature tree rose, with a general-use potting soil. Plant and stake the tree rose as you would in the garden.
Step 8
Deadhead your tree rose when blooms fade. In the spring, just after bud break, prune off dead and broken branches. Prune back foliage that has powdery mildew or black spot.
Step 9
Give your tree rose a deep watering three to four times a week. Water the soil around the tree rose. Do not get the foliage wet as this will promote powdery mildew and black spot.
Step 10
Fertilize your tree rose three times a year -- in early spring when flower buds are swelling, again just after your tree rose begins to flower and then in late summer after most of the blooms have faded. Use a liquid rose food; follow package directions for rate of application.
Step 11
When your tree rose loses its leaves in the fall, wrap the entire plant with burlap, leave the top open and secure with twine. Or you can just dig up your tree rose and store it in dampened peat moss in a warm garage or basement. If your tree rose is planted in a container, bring the container inside for the winter.
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Miss Chen
2017年08月29日
Selecting Your Roses
Roses are one of the most celebrated and recognized flowers in the world. With a little research or a visit to your local garden store, you will be able to determine which roses grow best in your area. How long it takes to grow roses depends upon the type of roses you select, the climate and soil quality in your garden. Roses are generally planted in the ground in early Spring in most areas but may be planted in late Fall in mild climates. Most roses will be ready for their first blooms in the summer. Floribunda, hybrid tea and shrub/hedge roses usually bloom six to eight weeks after planting. Climbing roses generally have a limited bloom during the first season but have a large bloom by the second year after planting.
Purchasing and Planting Your Roses
There are many different types of roses and their rate of growth is dependent upon the climate as well as the care they receive. To achieve maximum growth and blooms, select roses that are recommended for your area. If you purchased bare root roses through the mail, plant them as soon as possible. When you are ready to plant, fill a bucket with room-temperature water. Carefully unwrap the bare root plants from their packaging and then soak the root system in the water for approximately one hour prior to planting. Dig a cone-shaped hole 18 inches deep and spread the roots evenly. Remove any damaged, dead or broken roots and stems prior to planting. Add a mixture of soil combined up to a maximum of 25 percent compost and manure. Pack soil mixture firmly to fill in the hole and water.
Potted roses should be watered and placed in a sunny location. If you are planning to plant the potted roses in your garden, remove any damaged, dead or broken stems prior to planting. Dig a hole, place the rose bush into the hole and add a combination the soil, compost and manure mixture which has been mixed with loose soil from the container. Water lightly.
Growth of Popular Roses
Producing the classic long stemmed roses commonly sold by florists, Hybrid Teas are one of those most popular variety of roses. Mature Hybrid Tea plants can grow up to five feet high. Also growing up to five feet and with similar blooms, Grandifloras produce clusters of hybrid-tea roses but with shorter stems.
Climbing roses can be trained to entwine a trellis, a wall or an arbor but they frequently do not reach full blooming capacity until the second year of growth. Although they are usually between ten to twelve feet tall or wide, some climbing roses can grow up to twenty feet.
Floribundas are easy to grow roses which generally bloom continuously from June until the first hard frost. Averaging between two and four feet tall, Floribundas feature clusters of flowers on short stems.
Shrub roses are very hardy and will tolerate cool climates. Ranging between two to five feet tall, shrub roses will bloom heavily and frequently throughout the season. Due to their productivity, they have a large quantity of rose hips that need to be pruned regularly.
Mini roses feature petite blooms and are available in a variety of colors. Most mini rose plants average approximately fourteen inches high but these hardy roses can reach a height of up to three feet.
Roses are one of the most celebrated and recognized flowers in the world. With a little research or a visit to your local garden store, you will be able to determine which roses grow best in your area. How long it takes to grow roses depends upon the type of roses you select, the climate and soil quality in your garden. Roses are generally planted in the ground in early Spring in most areas but may be planted in late Fall in mild climates. Most roses will be ready for their first blooms in the summer. Floribunda, hybrid tea and shrub/hedge roses usually bloom six to eight weeks after planting. Climbing roses generally have a limited bloom during the first season but have a large bloom by the second year after planting.
Purchasing and Planting Your Roses
There are many different types of roses and their rate of growth is dependent upon the climate as well as the care they receive. To achieve maximum growth and blooms, select roses that are recommended for your area. If you purchased bare root roses through the mail, plant them as soon as possible. When you are ready to plant, fill a bucket with room-temperature water. Carefully unwrap the bare root plants from their packaging and then soak the root system in the water for approximately one hour prior to planting. Dig a cone-shaped hole 18 inches deep and spread the roots evenly. Remove any damaged, dead or broken roots and stems prior to planting. Add a mixture of soil combined up to a maximum of 25 percent compost and manure. Pack soil mixture firmly to fill in the hole and water.
Potted roses should be watered and placed in a sunny location. If you are planning to plant the potted roses in your garden, remove any damaged, dead or broken stems prior to planting. Dig a hole, place the rose bush into the hole and add a combination the soil, compost and manure mixture which has been mixed with loose soil from the container. Water lightly.
Growth of Popular Roses
Producing the classic long stemmed roses commonly sold by florists, Hybrid Teas are one of those most popular variety of roses. Mature Hybrid Tea plants can grow up to five feet high. Also growing up to five feet and with similar blooms, Grandifloras produce clusters of hybrid-tea roses but with shorter stems.
Climbing roses can be trained to entwine a trellis, a wall or an arbor but they frequently do not reach full blooming capacity until the second year of growth. Although they are usually between ten to twelve feet tall or wide, some climbing roses can grow up to twenty feet.
Floribundas are easy to grow roses which generally bloom continuously from June until the first hard frost. Averaging between two and four feet tall, Floribundas feature clusters of flowers on short stems.
Shrub roses are very hardy and will tolerate cool climates. Ranging between two to five feet tall, shrub roses will bloom heavily and frequently throughout the season. Due to their productivity, they have a large quantity of rose hips that need to be pruned regularly.
Mini roses feature petite blooms and are available in a variety of colors. Most mini rose plants average approximately fourteen inches high but these hardy roses can reach a height of up to three feet.
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Miss Chen
2017年08月29日
Roses are a favorite flower in America, gracing gardens across the country. When leaves start turning yellow, though, gardeners must diagnose and respond quickly if they want to keep their beauties blooming. Yellowing leaves can be a symptom of several maladies.
Soil
Roses like a slightly acidic soil with a pH near 6.7 and require nutrients to grow and produce well. A soil that is too alkaline or deficient in iron may cause general yellowing. Soil with excess phosphorus or potassium may need nitrogen to "green up" leaves.
Culture
Crowding can deny leaves the sunlight and air they crave, and they might start to yellow. Over-watering and too much fertilizer can also damage leaves, turning them yellow.
Herbicides
Pre-emergent herbicides used on lawns in the spring can damage roots of nearby plants, such as rose bushes, causing the leaves to turn yellow, and glyphosate spray, a common summer broad-leaf weed killer, may cause yellowing from the point of contact.
Pests
Aphids, spider mites, rose scales and leaf hoppers can cause yellow spots and patches on leaves. Use pesticides formulated for the particular insect infecting your roses.
Fungus
Fungi are transmitted by rain, wind, insects and gardening tools. Black spot is surrounded by a yellow "halo" and rust makes yellow patches with orange or black spores on the underside of the leaf. Prune the affected parts out of your rose bush.
Virus
Mosaic virus is a disease transmitted from a parent plant or by insects. It starts with yellow streaks on leaves.
Soil
Roses like a slightly acidic soil with a pH near 6.7 and require nutrients to grow and produce well. A soil that is too alkaline or deficient in iron may cause general yellowing. Soil with excess phosphorus or potassium may need nitrogen to "green up" leaves.
Culture
Crowding can deny leaves the sunlight and air they crave, and they might start to yellow. Over-watering and too much fertilizer can also damage leaves, turning them yellow.
Herbicides
Pre-emergent herbicides used on lawns in the spring can damage roots of nearby plants, such as rose bushes, causing the leaves to turn yellow, and glyphosate spray, a common summer broad-leaf weed killer, may cause yellowing from the point of contact.
Pests
Aphids, spider mites, rose scales and leaf hoppers can cause yellow spots and patches on leaves. Use pesticides formulated for the particular insect infecting your roses.
Fungus
Fungi are transmitted by rain, wind, insects and gardening tools. Black spot is surrounded by a yellow "halo" and rust makes yellow patches with orange or black spores on the underside of the leaf. Prune the affected parts out of your rose bush.
Virus
Mosaic virus is a disease transmitted from a parent plant or by insects. It starts with yellow streaks on leaves.
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Miss Chen
2017年08月29日
Knock Out roses are hardy down to USDA Zone 5. They can be planted outdoors in USDA Zone 7 (average annual minimum temperature range of 0 degrees F to 10 degrees F) in the spring after the last hard frost and in the fall, up to six weeks before the first hard frost. There are advantages and disadvantages to be weighed for the timing of planting that largely depend on your climate. In any case, it's best to avoid the heat stress of the peak of summer or the cold temperatures and hard-to-work soil of winter in most climates.
Spring Planting
Plant Knock Out roses in Zone 7 in early spring, after the last hard frost has passed. Spring soil is often wet and muddy, and rainy conditions weigh against spring planting. In climates where there are minimal spring rains, this is of little concern; in climates where spring rains are heavy, planting can be done on a dry day. Spring planting as early as possible (without frost) makes for a long growing and blooming season for Knock Outs, which will continue to bloom in cycles until the first hard frost of winter. Spring-planted Knock Outs will begin to grow again in two to three weeks after planting and come into bloom in six to eight weeks after that. Because spring-planted Knock Outs have the entire summer and fall to establish their root systems, they're well poised to survive winter undamaged.
Fall Planting
Plant Knock Out roses in the early fall in Zone 7. Planting Knock Outs in September, October and even the first week of November can be done safely. This allows the roots to become settled before the cold of winter. Fall planting also holds the advantage of a drier climate and better soil condition, which can reduce mildew and rust on the rose--though Knock Outs are known to be fairly disease resistant anyway. Roses planted in the fall are also more likely to bloom earlier in the spring because they're already well established. The downside of fall planting can be that the selection of roses available in your garden center and direct from growers is much smaller, unless you reserved or pre-ordered them.
Spring Planting
Plant Knock Out roses in Zone 7 in early spring, after the last hard frost has passed. Spring soil is often wet and muddy, and rainy conditions weigh against spring planting. In climates where there are minimal spring rains, this is of little concern; in climates where spring rains are heavy, planting can be done on a dry day. Spring planting as early as possible (without frost) makes for a long growing and blooming season for Knock Outs, which will continue to bloom in cycles until the first hard frost of winter. Spring-planted Knock Outs will begin to grow again in two to three weeks after planting and come into bloom in six to eight weeks after that. Because spring-planted Knock Outs have the entire summer and fall to establish their root systems, they're well poised to survive winter undamaged.
Fall Planting
Plant Knock Out roses in the early fall in Zone 7. Planting Knock Outs in September, October and even the first week of November can be done safely. This allows the roots to become settled before the cold of winter. Fall planting also holds the advantage of a drier climate and better soil condition, which can reduce mildew and rust on the rose--though Knock Outs are known to be fairly disease resistant anyway. Roses planted in the fall are also more likely to bloom earlier in the spring because they're already well established. The downside of fall planting can be that the selection of roses available in your garden center and direct from growers is much smaller, unless you reserved or pre-ordered them.
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Miss Chen
2017年08月29日
Knockout roses are flowering bushes that produce large, bright flowers. The fragrance produced is not as strong as other varieties of roses, and the flowers do not typically last as long after being cut. However, the knockout rose is exceptionally easy to care for, and is resistant to drought and many diseases. The flowers can be pink, red or yellow, and will bloom throughout most of the year in warm climates.
Planting
Plant knockout roses in a location that receives between six and eight hours of direct sunlight each day. Ensure the soil is fertile and has high drainage; additional organic compost can be added if necessary. Plant the roses in late April, after the last frost of the season and when the soil has warmed to a workable temperature.
Dig a hole 2 feet wide by 2 feet deep to plant each knockout rose. Transplant the bush directly into the hole and cover with soil. Water thoroughly after planting to compact the soil and collapse any air pockets.
Watering
Water the knockout roses two to three times a week until they become established. This will promote root growth, and help the plant create more food for developing leaves and blossoms. Reduce watering to about 1 inch per week after the first three months. Never allow the leaves to get wet, as this can cause disease. Water the roses as early in the day as possible, so any leaves that do become moist will dry out before the temperature drops in the evening.
Mulching and Fertilizing
Spread a 2- to 3-inch layer of mulch directly around the base of the knockout roses. This will help conserve water, maintain a constant soil temperature, add additional nutrients to the soil and discourage the growth of weeds. Replace the mulch after two or three months, or when it is visibly deteriorating.
Feed the knockout roses with a balanced fertilizer with 10-10-10 NPK or similar. Spread between ½ and 1 cup of fertilizer directly around the base of the plants in late April. Continue feeding every four to five weeks until late August. Prevent root burn by watering the roses before and after applying the fertilizer.
Pruning
Prune knockout roses once yearly in late March. Remove any stems that are dead, dying or diseased. Cut back all other stems to a length between one and two feet. This will provide more air circulation and light to penetrate to the inner portions of the bush, reducing the chance of fungi or diseases.
Planting
Plant knockout roses in a location that receives between six and eight hours of direct sunlight each day. Ensure the soil is fertile and has high drainage; additional organic compost can be added if necessary. Plant the roses in late April, after the last frost of the season and when the soil has warmed to a workable temperature.
Dig a hole 2 feet wide by 2 feet deep to plant each knockout rose. Transplant the bush directly into the hole and cover with soil. Water thoroughly after planting to compact the soil and collapse any air pockets.
Watering
Water the knockout roses two to three times a week until they become established. This will promote root growth, and help the plant create more food for developing leaves and blossoms. Reduce watering to about 1 inch per week after the first three months. Never allow the leaves to get wet, as this can cause disease. Water the roses as early in the day as possible, so any leaves that do become moist will dry out before the temperature drops in the evening.
Mulching and Fertilizing
Spread a 2- to 3-inch layer of mulch directly around the base of the knockout roses. This will help conserve water, maintain a constant soil temperature, add additional nutrients to the soil and discourage the growth of weeds. Replace the mulch after two or three months, or when it is visibly deteriorating.
Feed the knockout roses with a balanced fertilizer with 10-10-10 NPK or similar. Spread between ½ and 1 cup of fertilizer directly around the base of the plants in late April. Continue feeding every four to five weeks until late August. Prevent root burn by watering the roses before and after applying the fertilizer.
Pruning
Prune knockout roses once yearly in late March. Remove any stems that are dead, dying or diseased. Cut back all other stems to a length between one and two feet. This will provide more air circulation and light to penetrate to the inner portions of the bush, reducing the chance of fungi or diseases.
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Miss Chen
2017年08月29日
If your breakfast includes bananas and a cup of joe, you'll have enough nutritional scraps to feed your roses (Rosa spp.) too. Banana fruits and peels, composted first or not, add phosphorus and potassium to rose soil, and coffee grounds provide pinches of nitrogen, calcium and magnesium.
Rosy Dreams
Vibrant, healthy rose bushes fight off diseases and produce the best blossoms, so a gardener does what she can to make her roses strong. You give your roses some of the ingredients for healthy living, like sunlight and air, by selecting a good planting site. Mother nature provides both water and nutrients, but just as you add irrigation when needed, you can supplement nutrients by adding fertilizer to the soil. Consider both coffee grounds and banana peels in that category.
Feeding Soil
When you add compost or fertilizer, you feed the soil, not the rose plant growing in it. Plants produce their own food, taking up nutrients in the soil and converting them into sugars by the magic of photosynthesis. When you add material to the soil, you replace the nutrients your roses have used, providing them with a steady supply. This should be done every month or so throughout the growing season. The three primary nutrients required for rose growth and health are nitrogen, potassium and phosphorus. Between coffee grounds and bananas, you'll add all three to the soil.
Coffee Grounds for Nitrogen
Coffee grounds are 2 percent nitrogen, so from the get-go they increase the nitrogen level of the soil. According to the Oregon State University Extension service, they are an excellent source of nitrogen for composting. Keep the grounds to 25 percent or less of the pile. Rose gardeners can also spread several inches of coffee grounds directly on the rose bed soil. Either work the grounds into the soil or else cover a thin layer with several inches of dried leaves to prevent them from drying out.
Banana Peels
Banana fruit and peels are rich in phosphorus and the peels in potassium as well. Roses need potassium for vigor and phosphorus to bloom, so bananas and roses are a match made in plant heaven. Some gardeners prefer to chop up bananas and compost them in the bin but other simply bury fruit or peels at the base of the plants. If you add uncomposted organic material directly to the soil, it's a good idea to toss in a few tablespoons of nitrogen fertilizer at the same time, since it takes nitrogen to break down the material.
Rosy Dreams
Vibrant, healthy rose bushes fight off diseases and produce the best blossoms, so a gardener does what she can to make her roses strong. You give your roses some of the ingredients for healthy living, like sunlight and air, by selecting a good planting site. Mother nature provides both water and nutrients, but just as you add irrigation when needed, you can supplement nutrients by adding fertilizer to the soil. Consider both coffee grounds and banana peels in that category.
Feeding Soil
When you add compost or fertilizer, you feed the soil, not the rose plant growing in it. Plants produce their own food, taking up nutrients in the soil and converting them into sugars by the magic of photosynthesis. When you add material to the soil, you replace the nutrients your roses have used, providing them with a steady supply. This should be done every month or so throughout the growing season. The three primary nutrients required for rose growth and health are nitrogen, potassium and phosphorus. Between coffee grounds and bananas, you'll add all three to the soil.
Coffee Grounds for Nitrogen
Coffee grounds are 2 percent nitrogen, so from the get-go they increase the nitrogen level of the soil. According to the Oregon State University Extension service, they are an excellent source of nitrogen for composting. Keep the grounds to 25 percent or less of the pile. Rose gardeners can also spread several inches of coffee grounds directly on the rose bed soil. Either work the grounds into the soil or else cover a thin layer with several inches of dried leaves to prevent them from drying out.
Banana Peels
Banana fruit and peels are rich in phosphorus and the peels in potassium as well. Roses need potassium for vigor and phosphorus to bloom, so bananas and roses are a match made in plant heaven. Some gardeners prefer to chop up bananas and compost them in the bin but other simply bury fruit or peels at the base of the plants. If you add uncomposted organic material directly to the soil, it's a good idea to toss in a few tablespoons of nitrogen fertilizer at the same time, since it takes nitrogen to break down the material.
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文章
Miss Chen
2017年08月29日
Rose trees are hybrid roses that have been grown to look like a tree. They range in size from 3 feet to 6 feet tall and come in many colors; there are even weeping rose trees. Rose trees require most of the same care of a regular rose bush. Due to their unique shape, however, they also have some unique requirements of their own.
Step 1
Prepare the site for the rose tree. They need full sunlight and rich soil that retains moisture. Dig up the site, remove weeds, rocks and other garden debris and add generous amounts of compost or decayed manure several weeks before planting.
Step 2
Plant the rose tree. Dig a hole that is 2 feet deep and 2 feet wide; put the garden soil in a wheelbarrow or on a tarp. Mix the garden soil with equal amounts of mulch, peat moss and potting soil. Fill the hole half full with this soil mixture. Fill the hole with water and stir with the shovel, creating a slurry with the soil mixture. Place the rose in the hole and have someone hold it in place while add soil mixture until the hole is completely filled and the slurry is firm. Rose trees are susceptible to wind damage and should be staked using tree stakes.
Step 3
Water a newly planted rose tree every day until it is established and new growth appears. Water regularly and deeply; roses need about 1 to 2 inches of water each week. This causes the roots to grow deep and protects the plant during periods of drought.
Step 4
Feed the rose tree once new growth has appeared. You can use a complete plant food. Doug Green at Simple Gift Farms recommends using compost to feed the roses; spread two to three shovel-full of compost around the rose tree's base in early spring and in mid summer.
Step 5
Watch for rose diseases, such as black spot or mildew and treat promptly. Remove the infected leaves and treat with a fungicide. Roses attract aphids, spider mites and Japanese beetles; treat with a pesticide to control these problems. Bayer Advanced All-in-One Rose and Flower Care is a systemic pesticide, fungicide and plant food that is used once a month.
Step 6
Deadhead spent flowers on the rose tree. Remove the faded flower by locating the next leaf set below the bud; you will cut approximately ¼ inch above this leaf set. Hold the pruning shears at a 45 degree angle, so that the angle faces away from the center of the bush. Clean up all fallen rose leaves and petals beneath the rose tree and throw them away; do not add to the compost as it will encourage disease and pests.
Step 7
Prepare the rose tree in late fall for the coming winter. You can build a cage of mesh wire around the 'trunk' of the rose tree and fill the cage with mulch. Doug Green at Simple Gifts Farm offers an alternate method. Wrap a sheet of flexible Styrofoam around the trunk of the rose and cover that with burlap. Secure the burlap with duct tape and mound mulch around the base of the rose tree.
Step 8
Prune the rose tree in the spring. Remove any dead part of the canes; healthy canes have a green ting to the bark and white pith inside. Cut off the dead part until you see the healthy pith; if there is no healthy pith, remove the entire cane. Remove about 1/3 of the length of the healthy canes, shaping the rose tree for balance, both for appearance and to prevent uneven weight on one side.
Step 1
Prepare the site for the rose tree. They need full sunlight and rich soil that retains moisture. Dig up the site, remove weeds, rocks and other garden debris and add generous amounts of compost or decayed manure several weeks before planting.
Step 2
Plant the rose tree. Dig a hole that is 2 feet deep and 2 feet wide; put the garden soil in a wheelbarrow or on a tarp. Mix the garden soil with equal amounts of mulch, peat moss and potting soil. Fill the hole half full with this soil mixture. Fill the hole with water and stir with the shovel, creating a slurry with the soil mixture. Place the rose in the hole and have someone hold it in place while add soil mixture until the hole is completely filled and the slurry is firm. Rose trees are susceptible to wind damage and should be staked using tree stakes.
Step 3
Water a newly planted rose tree every day until it is established and new growth appears. Water regularly and deeply; roses need about 1 to 2 inches of water each week. This causes the roots to grow deep and protects the plant during periods of drought.
Step 4
Feed the rose tree once new growth has appeared. You can use a complete plant food. Doug Green at Simple Gift Farms recommends using compost to feed the roses; spread two to three shovel-full of compost around the rose tree's base in early spring and in mid summer.
Step 5
Watch for rose diseases, such as black spot or mildew and treat promptly. Remove the infected leaves and treat with a fungicide. Roses attract aphids, spider mites and Japanese beetles; treat with a pesticide to control these problems. Bayer Advanced All-in-One Rose and Flower Care is a systemic pesticide, fungicide and plant food that is used once a month.
Step 6
Deadhead spent flowers on the rose tree. Remove the faded flower by locating the next leaf set below the bud; you will cut approximately ¼ inch above this leaf set. Hold the pruning shears at a 45 degree angle, so that the angle faces away from the center of the bush. Clean up all fallen rose leaves and petals beneath the rose tree and throw them away; do not add to the compost as it will encourage disease and pests.
Step 7
Prepare the rose tree in late fall for the coming winter. You can build a cage of mesh wire around the 'trunk' of the rose tree and fill the cage with mulch. Doug Green at Simple Gifts Farm offers an alternate method. Wrap a sheet of flexible Styrofoam around the trunk of the rose and cover that with burlap. Secure the burlap with duct tape and mound mulch around the base of the rose tree.
Step 8
Prune the rose tree in the spring. Remove any dead part of the canes; healthy canes have a green ting to the bark and white pith inside. Cut off the dead part until you see the healthy pith; if there is no healthy pith, remove the entire cane. Remove about 1/3 of the length of the healthy canes, shaping the rose tree for balance, both for appearance and to prevent uneven weight on one side.
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文章
Miss Chen
2017年08月29日
Rose trees are hybrid roses that have been grafted on rootstock to look like a tree. Rose trees need the same care-planting, watering, feeding, protection from pests and diseases-as regular rose bushes. Like regular rose bushes, they also need to be pruned in early spring. Due to their unusual shape, rose trees need to be pruned differently from their bush counterparts.
Step 1
Use clean and sharp tools when pruning a rose tree. Using a dull shear to prune a rose will tear the cane instead of cut it, which damages the cane. Pruning tools can be cleaned using an old toothbrush and water and sterilized in a solution of 1 part household bleach and 10 parts water; allow the sterilized tools to air dry. Clean and sterilize the pruning tools after each use.The Weekend Gardener has extra tips for sharpening and cleaning pruning tools.
Step 2
Hold the pruning tools properly for pruning roses and rose trees. Hold the shears at a 45 degree angle; direct the angle so that it faces away from the center of the rose. This will cause new growth to grow away from the center of the rose, allowing air flow, which reduces the chance for diseases.
Step 3
Remove any canes that look dead. A healthy cane will have a greenish cast to the bark and white pith on the inside. Cut away the dead part of the cane until you come to healthy white pith.
Step 4
Remove any canes that are not a pencil width thick. These canes are not strong enough to support the blooms when they open. Remove woody old canes; saw them off as close to the rose tree trunk as possible. Remove any 'sucker' canes, that grow from the roots below the bud union.
Step 5
Shape the healthy canes on the rose tree. Prune 1/3 of the length from the canes. Work towards a balance when pruning a rose tree; not only does it look prettier, uneven pruning will cause an uneven weight distribution on the rose.
Step 6
Seal the pruned canes by smearing household glue on the cuts. This acts as a bandage on the cane and will keep insects and disease from entering through the cut.
Step 7
Clean up all rose cuttings, fallen leaves and petals from around the base of the rose tree. Throw these in the trash. Do not add them to the compost as they will encourage pests and diseases.
Step 1
Use clean and sharp tools when pruning a rose tree. Using a dull shear to prune a rose will tear the cane instead of cut it, which damages the cane. Pruning tools can be cleaned using an old toothbrush and water and sterilized in a solution of 1 part household bleach and 10 parts water; allow the sterilized tools to air dry. Clean and sterilize the pruning tools after each use.The Weekend Gardener has extra tips for sharpening and cleaning pruning tools.
Step 2
Hold the pruning tools properly for pruning roses and rose trees. Hold the shears at a 45 degree angle; direct the angle so that it faces away from the center of the rose. This will cause new growth to grow away from the center of the rose, allowing air flow, which reduces the chance for diseases.
Step 3
Remove any canes that look dead. A healthy cane will have a greenish cast to the bark and white pith on the inside. Cut away the dead part of the cane until you come to healthy white pith.
Step 4
Remove any canes that are not a pencil width thick. These canes are not strong enough to support the blooms when they open. Remove woody old canes; saw them off as close to the rose tree trunk as possible. Remove any 'sucker' canes, that grow from the roots below the bud union.
Step 5
Shape the healthy canes on the rose tree. Prune 1/3 of the length from the canes. Work towards a balance when pruning a rose tree; not only does it look prettier, uneven pruning will cause an uneven weight distribution on the rose.
Step 6
Seal the pruned canes by smearing household glue on the cuts. This acts as a bandage on the cane and will keep insects and disease from entering through the cut.
Step 7
Clean up all rose cuttings, fallen leaves and petals from around the base of the rose tree. Throw these in the trash. Do not add them to the compost as they will encourage pests and diseases.
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