文章
Miss Chen
2017年08月10日
Roses add beauty to any living space, but when their blooms begin to droop you have to act fast to prevent further damage to your plants. As beautiful as roses may be, they are not without problems. Roses are susceptible to pests and disease and even something as simple as an environmental change could seriously threaten the health of your roses.
Disease
Verticillium wilt causes drooping, as well as yellowing or pale foliage and dying stems. Botrytis blight makes buds droop and causes lesions on the plant as well as decay of buds. Management of these diseases often includes trimming away any damaged foliage or flowers, transplanting the plant in an uninfested area, and treating it with fungicides to kill off any lingering disease. Never leave a diseased rose around healthy roses or you risk infesting those roses with a droop-inducing disease.
Pests
Pests may also cause roses to droop. Drooping canes, or stems, of roses may be caused by pests called borers. Borers are the larvae of insects. Types of borers include rose stem sawfly, rose stem girdler and raspberry cane borer. These larvae dig their way into the stems of rose bushes, producing a wilt or droop in the foliage, stems and new growth on the plants. Borers are treated by pruning away areas of the plant affected with pests or covering openings on the plant's stems with paint or putty to prevent reentry. Insect pests called thrips infest flowers of roses, causing drooping flowers. Treat thrips with insecticide.
Water
Dehydration causes blooms and foliage to droop. Roses need to stay hydrated, so water thoroughly two to four times weekly. Keep soil moist, never soggy, as overwatering also causes roses to droop. Allow soil to dry out slightly between waterings. Water roses in the morning to prevent diseases such as powdery mildew. As a general rule, do not wet the rose's flowers or foliage, as this also increases risk of disease. Once weekly, spray the rose bush with water in the morning to wash away any dust, pests or mildew. Do this on a sunny day allowing the rose plenty of time to dry out.
Roses in Vases
If you choose to enjoy cut roses indoors, it is quite disappointing to discover your fresh roses have begun to droop. This occurs because roses are cut too soon or left out of water too long before being placed into a vase. To rescue your roses, remove your roses from the vase and place them into fresh, lukewarm water. Separate the roses while they are in this water. Cut 1 inch off of the stem of each rose, while keeping the stem in the water. Roll each individual flower in its own sheet of newspaper, holding it closed with a rubber band. Place the individually wrapped roses into a tub of water, allowing them to soak for two to four hours. Remove the roses from the water, then unwrap and place into a vase of fresh warm water.
Disease
Verticillium wilt causes drooping, as well as yellowing or pale foliage and dying stems. Botrytis blight makes buds droop and causes lesions on the plant as well as decay of buds. Management of these diseases often includes trimming away any damaged foliage or flowers, transplanting the plant in an uninfested area, and treating it with fungicides to kill off any lingering disease. Never leave a diseased rose around healthy roses or you risk infesting those roses with a droop-inducing disease.
Pests
Pests may also cause roses to droop. Drooping canes, or stems, of roses may be caused by pests called borers. Borers are the larvae of insects. Types of borers include rose stem sawfly, rose stem girdler and raspberry cane borer. These larvae dig their way into the stems of rose bushes, producing a wilt or droop in the foliage, stems and new growth on the plants. Borers are treated by pruning away areas of the plant affected with pests or covering openings on the plant's stems with paint or putty to prevent reentry. Insect pests called thrips infest flowers of roses, causing drooping flowers. Treat thrips with insecticide.
Water
Dehydration causes blooms and foliage to droop. Roses need to stay hydrated, so water thoroughly two to four times weekly. Keep soil moist, never soggy, as overwatering also causes roses to droop. Allow soil to dry out slightly between waterings. Water roses in the morning to prevent diseases such as powdery mildew. As a general rule, do not wet the rose's flowers or foliage, as this also increases risk of disease. Once weekly, spray the rose bush with water in the morning to wash away any dust, pests or mildew. Do this on a sunny day allowing the rose plenty of time to dry out.
Roses in Vases
If you choose to enjoy cut roses indoors, it is quite disappointing to discover your fresh roses have begun to droop. This occurs because roses are cut too soon or left out of water too long before being placed into a vase. To rescue your roses, remove your roses from the vase and place them into fresh, lukewarm water. Separate the roses while they are in this water. Cut 1 inch off of the stem of each rose, while keeping the stem in the water. Roll each individual flower in its own sheet of newspaper, holding it closed with a rubber band. Place the individually wrapped roses into a tub of water, allowing them to soak for two to four hours. Remove the roses from the water, then unwrap and place into a vase of fresh warm water.
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文章
Miss Chen
2017年08月10日
All roses must be pollinated in order to produce fruit and seeds, although they can also be propagated from stem cuttings. Pollination involves the movement of pollen from one flower to the next, or between the sexual organs of the same flower. Vectors for moving pollen include wind, birds and insects. Gardeners can also pollinate roses by hand, with the proper tools and timing.
Insect Pollination
Bees and butterflies are the primary insect pollinators for many plants, including roses. As a bee takes nectar from a flower, pollen sticks to its legs and body hair. When it moves to the next flower, some of the pollen rubs off and sticks to the female sex organ of the rose, pollinating it. A butterfly has a long proboscis that probes for nectar. As a butterfly climbs through a flower, it collects pollen on its legs and wings, transferring it when it flits to the next flower. Butterflies and bees are most attracted to yellow, fragrant roses.
Bird Pollination
Birds are most attracted to red and orange roses because they see these colors best. Hummingbirds in particular are excellent pollinators. Because they hover as they feed, their wings stir up pollen, moving it from flower to flower. Many other types of birds come to feed on seeds when fruit develops after pollination, and seeds are dispersed in their droppings.
Wind Pollination
Air currents are another important pollinator for roses. Space rosebushes so that they have plenty of ventilation between them. Overcrowding can lead to disease and insect problems, and it can also decrease pollination if air can't move freely. A breeze can pick up releasing pollen, dispersing it over a wide area. Some of it can't help but land on the sticky surfaces where pollination occurs.
Artificial Pollination
Roses can also be pollinated and hybridized by human hands. When the rose is fully open, collect the anthers, or filaments, from the center of the rose with your fingers. Lay them on a piece of paper to dry for 24 hours, then seal them in an airtight jar until you're ready to pollinate. Gently brush pollen onto the stigma of the flower with a pipe cleaner or artist's paintbrush.
Insect Pollination
Bees and butterflies are the primary insect pollinators for many plants, including roses. As a bee takes nectar from a flower, pollen sticks to its legs and body hair. When it moves to the next flower, some of the pollen rubs off and sticks to the female sex organ of the rose, pollinating it. A butterfly has a long proboscis that probes for nectar. As a butterfly climbs through a flower, it collects pollen on its legs and wings, transferring it when it flits to the next flower. Butterflies and bees are most attracted to yellow, fragrant roses.
Bird Pollination
Birds are most attracted to red and orange roses because they see these colors best. Hummingbirds in particular are excellent pollinators. Because they hover as they feed, their wings stir up pollen, moving it from flower to flower. Many other types of birds come to feed on seeds when fruit develops after pollination, and seeds are dispersed in their droppings.
Wind Pollination
Air currents are another important pollinator for roses. Space rosebushes so that they have plenty of ventilation between them. Overcrowding can lead to disease and insect problems, and it can also decrease pollination if air can't move freely. A breeze can pick up releasing pollen, dispersing it over a wide area. Some of it can't help but land on the sticky surfaces where pollination occurs.
Artificial Pollination
Roses can also be pollinated and hybridized by human hands. When the rose is fully open, collect the anthers, or filaments, from the center of the rose with your fingers. Lay them on a piece of paper to dry for 24 hours, then seal them in an airtight jar until you're ready to pollinate. Gently brush pollen onto the stigma of the flower with a pipe cleaner or artist's paintbrush.
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文章
Miss Chen
2017年08月10日
Roses (Rosa spp.) produce showy, fragrant blooms that make them popular not only with gardeners, but also with various insect pests that enjoy feeding on the foliage. One common pest is the rose slug, which will feed on any rose species, including the Carolina rose (Rosa carolina) and the Knock Out rose (Rosa Radrazz), both of which grow in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 4 through 9. You can choose from various control methods to kill rose slugs and keep your rose plants looking fabulous and smelling great.
About Rose Slugs
Despite their name, rose slugs aren't actually slugs. Instead, they are the larvae of rose sawflies, non-stinging, flying insects that belong to the wasp family (Tenthredinidae). Three species commonly appear on rose plants: the rose slug (Endelomyia aethiops), the curled rose slug sawfly (Allantus cinctus) and the bristly rose slug (Cladius difformis). Adult sawflies have yellowish-green bodies that reach 1/4 to 3/4 inch in length, while the larvae have 1/2- to 3/4-inch long, yellow-green bodies, yellow to yellowish-orange heads and several caterpillar-like legs. Although the three species look similar when it comes to size and coloring, bristly rose slugs have wiry hairs covering their bodies, while curled rose slug sawflies curl up when resting. All three rose slug species inflict similar damage and require the same treatment methods.
Young rose slugs feed on soft leaf tissue, leaving just veins and a papery, see-through surface material behind. Mature rose slugs frequently chew big holes in the foliage. Although mild infestations might make plants look unattractive, the roses suffer no lasting damage. Severe infestations not only make leaves curl and turn brown, but can also cause severe defoliation, which leaves plants weak and vulnerable to diseases and other insect pests.
Nonchemical Control Measures
If you detect rose slug problems early on, you can often get rid of the pests using simple nonchemical control measures. Start inspecting your rose plants about mid-spring and continue throughout the entire growing season. Search the tops and undersides of leaves for the small slugs, picking off the pests you find and dropping them into a pail of soapy water. Pruning off infested foliage and discarding it in a covered garbage can destroys sawfly larvae, as does spraying your plant with a strong jet of water from a garden hose.
Chemical Treatments
Consider treating a severe rose slug infestation with an insecticidal soap solution. This less-toxic option desiccates and kills the pests without harming people, pets or most beneficial insects, with the exception of predatory mites. As always, carefully read and follow the instructions on the manufacturer's label. A typical mix is 4 teaspoons of insecticidal soap concentrate with every 1 quart of water. Use a handheld trigger sprayer or small garden sprayer to completely cover all foliage, including the tops and undersides of leaves, as well as the soil beneath the infested rose plant. Insecticidal soaps have no residual action, so the solution must make direct contact with rose slugs in order to be effective. Repeat treatment every seven to 14 days until you spot no more rose sawfly larvae on your plants.
Staying Safe
Although nontoxic to humans, insecticidal soap can still cause eye and skin irritation on contact. Reduce the risk of exposure by wearing goggles, long sleeves, pants, waterproof gloves, a face mask and shoes with socks whenever mixing or spraying a soap solution. Avoid spraying insecticidal soap mixtures on fully sunny days or you risk burning the leaves. Spraying your roses in the early morning or around dusk helps prevent foliage injury while allowing you to avoid harming honeybees and other pollinating insects.
About Rose Slugs
Despite their name, rose slugs aren't actually slugs. Instead, they are the larvae of rose sawflies, non-stinging, flying insects that belong to the wasp family (Tenthredinidae). Three species commonly appear on rose plants: the rose slug (Endelomyia aethiops), the curled rose slug sawfly (Allantus cinctus) and the bristly rose slug (Cladius difformis). Adult sawflies have yellowish-green bodies that reach 1/4 to 3/4 inch in length, while the larvae have 1/2- to 3/4-inch long, yellow-green bodies, yellow to yellowish-orange heads and several caterpillar-like legs. Although the three species look similar when it comes to size and coloring, bristly rose slugs have wiry hairs covering their bodies, while curled rose slug sawflies curl up when resting. All three rose slug species inflict similar damage and require the same treatment methods.
Young rose slugs feed on soft leaf tissue, leaving just veins and a papery, see-through surface material behind. Mature rose slugs frequently chew big holes in the foliage. Although mild infestations might make plants look unattractive, the roses suffer no lasting damage. Severe infestations not only make leaves curl and turn brown, but can also cause severe defoliation, which leaves plants weak and vulnerable to diseases and other insect pests.
Nonchemical Control Measures
If you detect rose slug problems early on, you can often get rid of the pests using simple nonchemical control measures. Start inspecting your rose plants about mid-spring and continue throughout the entire growing season. Search the tops and undersides of leaves for the small slugs, picking off the pests you find and dropping them into a pail of soapy water. Pruning off infested foliage and discarding it in a covered garbage can destroys sawfly larvae, as does spraying your plant with a strong jet of water from a garden hose.
Chemical Treatments
Consider treating a severe rose slug infestation with an insecticidal soap solution. This less-toxic option desiccates and kills the pests without harming people, pets or most beneficial insects, with the exception of predatory mites. As always, carefully read and follow the instructions on the manufacturer's label. A typical mix is 4 teaspoons of insecticidal soap concentrate with every 1 quart of water. Use a handheld trigger sprayer or small garden sprayer to completely cover all foliage, including the tops and undersides of leaves, as well as the soil beneath the infested rose plant. Insecticidal soaps have no residual action, so the solution must make direct contact with rose slugs in order to be effective. Repeat treatment every seven to 14 days until you spot no more rose sawfly larvae on your plants.
Staying Safe
Although nontoxic to humans, insecticidal soap can still cause eye and skin irritation on contact. Reduce the risk of exposure by wearing goggles, long sleeves, pants, waterproof gloves, a face mask and shoes with socks whenever mixing or spraying a soap solution. Avoid spraying insecticidal soap mixtures on fully sunny days or you risk burning the leaves. Spraying your roses in the early morning or around dusk helps prevent foliage injury while allowing you to avoid harming honeybees and other pollinating insects.
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文章
Miss Chen
2017年08月10日
Acidic soils can cause nutritional problems for many plants, including a plant's inability to absorb phosphorous, nitrogen and potassium. However, many species tolerate or even require mildly acidic conditions to grow well. Roses do well in a slight-to-moderate acid soil, but even these acid-loving plants can't tolerate high acidic locations.
Acid Soils
Abundant rain often creates acidic soil conditions, because rainwater itself is slightly acid. Other factors that encourage acidic soil include heavy local forest cover or large amounts of decaying organic matter, such as compost. Acid soils can increase the risk of some plant problems, such as slow growth or dead tissue at the edges of leaves. Roses grown in highly acid soils may have yellowed, spotty leaves. They also suffer from zinc, manganese, iron and aluminum toxicity and show reduced flowering.
Rose Soil Preferences
Roses grow best in slightly acid soil, with a pH of 6.5 to 6.8. This allows for the best uptake of major nutrients. However, many varieties will still grow well in soils as acid as pH 5.5. Excessively alkaline soils can cause manganese and iron deficiencies.
Raising pH
In areas where the soil pH is too low, or acidic, add alkaline soil amendments to create conditions where roses grow successfully. Raise soil pH by adding ground limestone directly to the surface of the soil around the plant. You can also mix agricultural lime or wood ash into the soil around your roses. These materials are more alkaline and can cause "burn" damage to rosebushes if applied too heavily. Apply these soil amendments only every other year.
Lowering pH
Excessively alkaline soils, such as those found in prairie areas and arid regions, or in areas where the soil contains large amounts of natural limestone, may need acidic soil amendments for roses to thrive. Add shredded leaves, sawdust, peat or pine needles to your soil before planting. This decaying organic material will decrease the pH of the soil. Organic material takes time to work, however. Apply sulfur soil additives around existing rosebushes for a more significant effect.
Acid Soils
Abundant rain often creates acidic soil conditions, because rainwater itself is slightly acid. Other factors that encourage acidic soil include heavy local forest cover or large amounts of decaying organic matter, such as compost. Acid soils can increase the risk of some plant problems, such as slow growth or dead tissue at the edges of leaves. Roses grown in highly acid soils may have yellowed, spotty leaves. They also suffer from zinc, manganese, iron and aluminum toxicity and show reduced flowering.
Rose Soil Preferences
Roses grow best in slightly acid soil, with a pH of 6.5 to 6.8. This allows for the best uptake of major nutrients. However, many varieties will still grow well in soils as acid as pH 5.5. Excessively alkaline soils can cause manganese and iron deficiencies.
Raising pH
In areas where the soil pH is too low, or acidic, add alkaline soil amendments to create conditions where roses grow successfully. Raise soil pH by adding ground limestone directly to the surface of the soil around the plant. You can also mix agricultural lime or wood ash into the soil around your roses. These materials are more alkaline and can cause "burn" damage to rosebushes if applied too heavily. Apply these soil amendments only every other year.
Lowering pH
Excessively alkaline soils, such as those found in prairie areas and arid regions, or in areas where the soil contains large amounts of natural limestone, may need acidic soil amendments for roses to thrive. Add shredded leaves, sawdust, peat or pine needles to your soil before planting. This decaying organic material will decrease the pH of the soil. Organic material takes time to work, however. Apply sulfur soil additives around existing rosebushes for a more significant effect.
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文章
Miss Chen
2017年08月10日
It's natural for petals to fall off your roses when blossoms die away at the end of a bloom period. Yet if you discover your roses are continually dropping petals before the flower has completely bloomed or soon afterward, it can indicate a problem. Petals might be falling off your roses for several reasons, but once you identify the cause, you can take steps to address the issue, and therefore ensure your rose bushes are healthy and produce quality blooms all season long.
Changing Weather Conditions
If weather conditions change rapidly from cool and damp to hot and dry, it can affect roses and cause petals to drop. Blossoms might partially open and then wilt and fall off when exposed to irregular weather patterns. All-American Rose Selections suggests providing rose bushes an additional layer of mulch and applying a potash-rich fertilizer or phosphate rock and green sand to lessen the impact of fluctuating temperatures and to fortify your rose bushes.
Thrips
Thrips are small insects with extended bodies that eat bud bases and petals. They prevent buds from opening, cause blooms to be misshaped as petals weaken and fall. Although they can be found on any rose bush variety, they frequently infest light-colored roses, such as white and pastels. Check the petals for yellow-brown lines and tiny dark dots or bumps to confirm the pest's presence. Prune buds affected with thrips. Apply an insecticide to the entire bush to eliminate the insect. More than one application might be required to eradicate them from your rose bush entirely.
Rose Midges
Rose midges are a pest that impacts roses. It impacts rose buds and prevents buds from opening, so they eventually brown and fall off. Look for very small white fly larvae that resemble a caterpillar near the base of the bud. Midges can also be found among petals and sepals on an infected bush. Remove and dispose of all buds infested with midges. Spray the entire rose bush with an insecticide that contains either neem or spinosad, notes the All-American Rose Selections Pest Matrix. Both of these products will effectively eliminate midges from your rose bush.
Botrytis Blight
Botrytis blight is a fungal disease that affects rose bush flowers. The disease generally affects rose bushes during periods of cool, damp weather. The infection thwarts buds from opening and over time the buds become brown or shadowy gray in color and petals fall. Cut off infected buds; there is no treatment for the disease. As weather conditions change and turn hot and dry, the remaining, healthy flowers should dry and eventually open.
Changing Weather Conditions
If weather conditions change rapidly from cool and damp to hot and dry, it can affect roses and cause petals to drop. Blossoms might partially open and then wilt and fall off when exposed to irregular weather patterns. All-American Rose Selections suggests providing rose bushes an additional layer of mulch and applying a potash-rich fertilizer or phosphate rock and green sand to lessen the impact of fluctuating temperatures and to fortify your rose bushes.
Thrips
Thrips are small insects with extended bodies that eat bud bases and petals. They prevent buds from opening, cause blooms to be misshaped as petals weaken and fall. Although they can be found on any rose bush variety, they frequently infest light-colored roses, such as white and pastels. Check the petals for yellow-brown lines and tiny dark dots or bumps to confirm the pest's presence. Prune buds affected with thrips. Apply an insecticide to the entire bush to eliminate the insect. More than one application might be required to eradicate them from your rose bush entirely.
Rose Midges
Rose midges are a pest that impacts roses. It impacts rose buds and prevents buds from opening, so they eventually brown and fall off. Look for very small white fly larvae that resemble a caterpillar near the base of the bud. Midges can also be found among petals and sepals on an infected bush. Remove and dispose of all buds infested with midges. Spray the entire rose bush with an insecticide that contains either neem or spinosad, notes the All-American Rose Selections Pest Matrix. Both of these products will effectively eliminate midges from your rose bush.
Botrytis Blight
Botrytis blight is a fungal disease that affects rose bush flowers. The disease generally affects rose bushes during periods of cool, damp weather. The infection thwarts buds from opening and over time the buds become brown or shadowy gray in color and petals fall. Cut off infected buds; there is no treatment for the disease. As weather conditions change and turn hot and dry, the remaining, healthy flowers should dry and eventually open.
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文章
Miss Chen
2017年08月10日
Companion planting helps protect roses against insect pests by masking the scent of roses and steering intruders to other hosts or directing them out of the garden entirely. Certain herbs make ideal companions for the rose garden by inviting beneficial insects into the landscape. Companion planting also creates a garden that invites compliments through skillful use of texture and color, fashioning an ideal year-round retreat from the hustle and bustle of everyday life.
Protect Against Rose Beetles
Italian parsley( Vaccinium neapolitanum), Okayama Prefecture, Honshu, Japan
credit: YOSHIHARU NUGA/a.collectionRF/amana images/Getty Images
plant parsley to protect against pests
When planted with roses, parsley protects against the Fuller rose beetle. Rose beetle adults feed on the foliage of roses. The larvae feed on the rose's roots, chewing off the root hairs when young and girdling lateral roots as they grow. The damage done by the rose beetle causes death of the plant during severe drought and makes the rose especially susceptible to fungal infestation. The Fuller rose beetle, found in 30 states and Mexico, also attacks citrus, strawberries, beans, peaches, rhubarb and potatoes.
Protect Against Aphids
feverfew is a member of the sunflower family
Aphids feed on the sap secreted by roses, attacking the undersides of leaves. A severe infestation causes leaves to wilt and turn yellow. Interplanting feverfew may ward off these soft-bodied invaders. Feverfew is a member of the sunflower family native to Europe. This short perennial produces yellow flowers reminiscent of daisies, which bloom from July to October and exude a strong, bitter odor that repels aphids. Although an aphid attack makes the rose's appearance less than desirable, the good news is the aphid infestation does not do serious harm to established rose bushes.
Roses with Dwarf Conifers
roses stand out against evergreens
When companion planting for visual interest alone, look to dwarf conifers. Roses planted in front of dwarf conifers complement them by bestowing striking color and an interesting contrast in overall appearance against the background created by the evergreen plants. Plant a shrub rose like Carefree Beauty in front of a dwarf blue spruce. This medium-pink rose is hardy from U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zone 4 to zone 9, blooms from June through frost and produces large, bright orange hips in winter.
Considerations
marigolds also repel pests
Marigolds have long been used to repel garden pests. Plant a double row of these fragrant annuals around the rose garden. The marigold's strong odor confuses pests and a substance given off by their root system drives back nematodes. Invite beneficial insects like ladybugs and praying mantis by planting savory, chamomile and thyme. Roses require a lot of water, well-drained soil, sun and timely fertilization. When choosing companion plants, look for those that do not compete with roses for these essentials. Also look for plants with harmonizing colors and low-growth habits that disguise the rose's lower, bare branches. Steer clear of plants, such as nasturtiums, that attract aphids. Unfortunately, no companion plants have been found that protect roses from Japanese beetles. According to a study published in the "Journal of Economic Entomology," planting aromatic herbs such as garlic and fennel among roses may lead to an increase in Japanese beetle damage.
Protect Against Rose Beetles
Italian parsley( Vaccinium neapolitanum), Okayama Prefecture, Honshu, Japan
credit: YOSHIHARU NUGA/a.collectionRF/amana images/Getty Images
plant parsley to protect against pests
When planted with roses, parsley protects against the Fuller rose beetle. Rose beetle adults feed on the foliage of roses. The larvae feed on the rose's roots, chewing off the root hairs when young and girdling lateral roots as they grow. The damage done by the rose beetle causes death of the plant during severe drought and makes the rose especially susceptible to fungal infestation. The Fuller rose beetle, found in 30 states and Mexico, also attacks citrus, strawberries, beans, peaches, rhubarb and potatoes.
Protect Against Aphids
feverfew is a member of the sunflower family
Aphids feed on the sap secreted by roses, attacking the undersides of leaves. A severe infestation causes leaves to wilt and turn yellow. Interplanting feverfew may ward off these soft-bodied invaders. Feverfew is a member of the sunflower family native to Europe. This short perennial produces yellow flowers reminiscent of daisies, which bloom from July to October and exude a strong, bitter odor that repels aphids. Although an aphid attack makes the rose's appearance less than desirable, the good news is the aphid infestation does not do serious harm to established rose bushes.
Roses with Dwarf Conifers
roses stand out against evergreens
When companion planting for visual interest alone, look to dwarf conifers. Roses planted in front of dwarf conifers complement them by bestowing striking color and an interesting contrast in overall appearance against the background created by the evergreen plants. Plant a shrub rose like Carefree Beauty in front of a dwarf blue spruce. This medium-pink rose is hardy from U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zone 4 to zone 9, blooms from June through frost and produces large, bright orange hips in winter.
Considerations
marigolds also repel pests
Marigolds have long been used to repel garden pests. Plant a double row of these fragrant annuals around the rose garden. The marigold's strong odor confuses pests and a substance given off by their root system drives back nematodes. Invite beneficial insects like ladybugs and praying mantis by planting savory, chamomile and thyme. Roses require a lot of water, well-drained soil, sun and timely fertilization. When choosing companion plants, look for those that do not compete with roses for these essentials. Also look for plants with harmonizing colors and low-growth habits that disguise the rose's lower, bare branches. Steer clear of plants, such as nasturtiums, that attract aphids. Unfortunately, no companion plants have been found that protect roses from Japanese beetles. According to a study published in the "Journal of Economic Entomology," planting aromatic herbs such as garlic and fennel among roses may lead to an increase in Japanese beetle damage.
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文章
Miss Chen
2017年08月10日
Roses have a long history of human cultivation. Evidence suggests the ancient Chinese grew roses as far back as 3,000 B.C. People in the Roman Empire used the rose as a medical herb. During the 1600s, roses were even used as legal currency and in bartering, according to the University of Illinois Extension.
Roses
Roses, the plants of the genus rosa, reproduce by generating seeds contained in a bowl-shaped fruit called a rose hip. The rose hip actually holds a small shell called an anchene. The anchene, commonly mistaken for the seed itself, envelops a single rose seed. Roses therefore fall under the angiosperm classification, since they protect their seeds within a fruit, or in this case, two fruits.
Angiosperms
One of the primary ways scientists by which classify plants is how the plant reproduces itself. Plants that reproduce themselves by creating seeds that grow inside of an ovule are called angiosperms. The ovule typically develops into a fruit that protects the seed from harm. The majority of the world's plant life, an estimated 80 percent of all the known species, reproduce from seeds using this method. Angiosperms come in an enormous variety of shapes and sizes, from flowering plants less than 1 inch long to trees that grow to 100 feet high.
Gymnosperms
Gymnosperms, in contrast to angiosperms, produce seeds that are not enclosed inside a fruit. These are called "naked seeds" because they have little protection from the elements. Instead of a fruit, gymnosperms typically produce cones. A cone carries a seed between its scales, and as it matures, the scales expand, releasing the seed. Gymnosperms are not as diverse as angiosperms, and trees account for the majority of the group.
Other Methods
Although roses belong to the angiosperm group and reproduce naturally by means of seeds, human beings have cultivated the plants for many years and reproduce them using other methods. Most modern garden roses are hybrids created by grafting cuttings onto rootstock. You can also plant cuttings of some types of roses without grafting them. The best chance for success comes when taking a cutting of a stem's tip just as the hip begins to form, advises Texas A&M University.
Roses
Roses, the plants of the genus rosa, reproduce by generating seeds contained in a bowl-shaped fruit called a rose hip. The rose hip actually holds a small shell called an anchene. The anchene, commonly mistaken for the seed itself, envelops a single rose seed. Roses therefore fall under the angiosperm classification, since they protect their seeds within a fruit, or in this case, two fruits.
Angiosperms
One of the primary ways scientists by which classify plants is how the plant reproduces itself. Plants that reproduce themselves by creating seeds that grow inside of an ovule are called angiosperms. The ovule typically develops into a fruit that protects the seed from harm. The majority of the world's plant life, an estimated 80 percent of all the known species, reproduce from seeds using this method. Angiosperms come in an enormous variety of shapes and sizes, from flowering plants less than 1 inch long to trees that grow to 100 feet high.
Gymnosperms
Gymnosperms, in contrast to angiosperms, produce seeds that are not enclosed inside a fruit. These are called "naked seeds" because they have little protection from the elements. Instead of a fruit, gymnosperms typically produce cones. A cone carries a seed between its scales, and as it matures, the scales expand, releasing the seed. Gymnosperms are not as diverse as angiosperms, and trees account for the majority of the group.
Other Methods
Although roses belong to the angiosperm group and reproduce naturally by means of seeds, human beings have cultivated the plants for many years and reproduce them using other methods. Most modern garden roses are hybrids created by grafting cuttings onto rootstock. You can also plant cuttings of some types of roses without grafting them. The best chance for success comes when taking a cutting of a stem's tip just as the hip begins to form, advises Texas A&M University.
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文章
Miss Chen
2017年08月10日
Knockout roses are a favorite rose variety for many gardeners because they are available in a wide range of colors and are relatively easy to grow. Although bred for disease resistance, knockout roses are susceptible to several rose-specific diseases and fungi. They also require proper watering habits and fertilizer to thrive. When knockout roses turn brown, they require intervention to correct the problem.
Drought
Roses need plenty of water, sometimes up to twice a day on the hottest days of the summer. Without enough water, the rose blooms will die prematurely and turn brown. The tips of the blooms turn brown first before the entire bloom loses its color, withers and falls. In severe drought conditions, the leaves will turn brown. If you do not rehydrate the plant, the entire plant will die. Remove the brown leaves, blooms and buds, and saturate the ground with water daily until the rose recovers.
Pest Infestations
Japanese beetles, aphids and thrips, as well as other insects, enjoy nesting and feeding on roses. To remove pest insects, use a commercially available insecticide labeled as safe for roses. You can pluck beetles and large insects from the bush to remove them, but they often come back. Thrips are small, so they often go unnoticed until the plant suffers. The best defense against insect infestations is a healthy plant that can withstand the attack on its own.
Fungi
Several types of fungi attack roses. The most common that cause the bush to turn brown are botrytis and black spot. Knockout roses are extremely resistant to black spot, but they can become infected. Botrytis causes the tips of blooms to turn brown. Black spot manifests as brown to black fuzzy spots on the leaves that eventually turns the leaf yellow.
Fertilizer
Proper fertilizing increases the overall health of the roses and helps them naturally fight infections and infestations. Always use fertilizer specifically formulated and labeled for use on roses and follow the manufacturer's instructions explicitly. Brown-tipped leaves on the bush with new leaves developing that are red may signal a potassium deficiency in the soil. Add rose fertilizer to the soil that contains potassium to correct the problem.
Drought
Roses need plenty of water, sometimes up to twice a day on the hottest days of the summer. Without enough water, the rose blooms will die prematurely and turn brown. The tips of the blooms turn brown first before the entire bloom loses its color, withers and falls. In severe drought conditions, the leaves will turn brown. If you do not rehydrate the plant, the entire plant will die. Remove the brown leaves, blooms and buds, and saturate the ground with water daily until the rose recovers.
Pest Infestations
Japanese beetles, aphids and thrips, as well as other insects, enjoy nesting and feeding on roses. To remove pest insects, use a commercially available insecticide labeled as safe for roses. You can pluck beetles and large insects from the bush to remove them, but they often come back. Thrips are small, so they often go unnoticed until the plant suffers. The best defense against insect infestations is a healthy plant that can withstand the attack on its own.
Fungi
Several types of fungi attack roses. The most common that cause the bush to turn brown are botrytis and black spot. Knockout roses are extremely resistant to black spot, but they can become infected. Botrytis causes the tips of blooms to turn brown. Black spot manifests as brown to black fuzzy spots on the leaves that eventually turns the leaf yellow.
Fertilizer
Proper fertilizing increases the overall health of the roses and helps them naturally fight infections and infestations. Always use fertilizer specifically formulated and labeled for use on roses and follow the manufacturer's instructions explicitly. Brown-tipped leaves on the bush with new leaves developing that are red may signal a potassium deficiency in the soil. Add rose fertilizer to the soil that contains potassium to correct the problem.
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文章
Miss Chen
2017年08月10日
Perennials are plants that live for more than three years, returning each spring as the weather warms up to once again brighten the landscape. With more than 150 species, roses have been in existence for more than 35 million years. While roses in the home garden may not last quite that long, proper site selection, planting, care and pruning will ensure that perennial roses do continue to bloom every year.
Roses are perennials that need the right care to bloom from year to year.
Site Selection
When purchasing roses for the garden, select varieties that are hardy to the U.S. Department of Agriculture hardiness zone for the area. Roses need full sun, well-drained soil and good air circulation. Morning sun is beneficial as it helps to dry the leaves and prevent possible disease, and some afternoon shade will prolong the quality of the blooms. Roses will adapt to most soil types but prefer a fertile spot. When planting, enhance the area with organic material like compost or manure to increase the soil quality. The ideal soil pH for roses is 6.0 to 7.0; ensure the bed is properly prepared before planting.
Planting Roses
Dig the hole deep and wide enough to accommodate plant roots, keeping the bud union level with the soil. Place the plant in the hole, fill two-thirds with soil, and add water, creating a muddy mix that gets through the roots. After the water has drained, add more soil and repeat the mud process until reaching the original soil level.
Fertilization
Roses need 1 inch of water per week and sandy soil, and dry spells will require an increased watering frequency. Soaker hoses are ideal for roses because they deliver consistent moisture while keeping the leaves dry. Use a 10-10-10 fertilizer early in the season and again in mid-June, surrounding the plant 6 inches out. For roses that bloom repeatedly, apply another light fertilization in the middle of July, but do not apply any more after mid-August as it may promote growth that will not survive the winter.
Winter Care
Keeping roses consistently cold and frozen rather than experiencing freezing and thawing numerous times is key to winter survival. As winter approaches, mound roses with 12 inches of a soil/compost mix, pruning any tall plants to prevent stem damage. Once the mound freezes, cover with evergreen cuttings or straw to help insulate the plant. A rose that goes into winter healthy has a good chance of coming out of the winter healthy so good summer care is essential.
Pruning
Pruning requirements vary depending on the type of rose, but all roses share the same pruning basics. Use clean, sharp pruners and cut at a 45-degree angle. Remove all dead wood or any canes that are thin, not growing well or weak, and deadhead any spent flowers at an outward-facing bud above a group of five or seven leaflets.
Roses are perennials that need the right care to bloom from year to year.
Site Selection
When purchasing roses for the garden, select varieties that are hardy to the U.S. Department of Agriculture hardiness zone for the area. Roses need full sun, well-drained soil and good air circulation. Morning sun is beneficial as it helps to dry the leaves and prevent possible disease, and some afternoon shade will prolong the quality of the blooms. Roses will adapt to most soil types but prefer a fertile spot. When planting, enhance the area with organic material like compost or manure to increase the soil quality. The ideal soil pH for roses is 6.0 to 7.0; ensure the bed is properly prepared before planting.
Planting Roses
Dig the hole deep and wide enough to accommodate plant roots, keeping the bud union level with the soil. Place the plant in the hole, fill two-thirds with soil, and add water, creating a muddy mix that gets through the roots. After the water has drained, add more soil and repeat the mud process until reaching the original soil level.
Fertilization
Roses need 1 inch of water per week and sandy soil, and dry spells will require an increased watering frequency. Soaker hoses are ideal for roses because they deliver consistent moisture while keeping the leaves dry. Use a 10-10-10 fertilizer early in the season and again in mid-June, surrounding the plant 6 inches out. For roses that bloom repeatedly, apply another light fertilization in the middle of July, but do not apply any more after mid-August as it may promote growth that will not survive the winter.
Winter Care
Keeping roses consistently cold and frozen rather than experiencing freezing and thawing numerous times is key to winter survival. As winter approaches, mound roses with 12 inches of a soil/compost mix, pruning any tall plants to prevent stem damage. Once the mound freezes, cover with evergreen cuttings or straw to help insulate the plant. A rose that goes into winter healthy has a good chance of coming out of the winter healthy so good summer care is essential.
Pruning
Pruning requirements vary depending on the type of rose, but all roses share the same pruning basics. Use clean, sharp pruners and cut at a 45-degree angle. Remove all dead wood or any canes that are thin, not growing well or weak, and deadhead any spent flowers at an outward-facing bud above a group of five or seven leaflets.
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文章
Miss Chen
2017年08月10日
Knock out roses are prized for being tough. They're named Earth Kind roses because they are disease-resistant, drought-tolerant, hardy and relatively hassle free. Their plentiful blooms, mounding shape and self-cleaning habit -- they drop their spent blooms -- make them an ideal landscape plant. A few things cause damage to these roses, including holes in the leaves.
Insects
Rose slugs are actually not slugs, but the larvae of sawflies. Still, they're aptly named, and will chew holes in rose leaves. Get rid of them by treating the roses with insecticidal soap. Leaf cutter bees also plague knock out rose leaves when they're cutting away holes in the leaves to use in building their nests. They rarely take much from the plants, however, and their season is short. Knock out roses usually spring back well from this damage.
Diseases
While knock out roses are highly prized for their disease resistance, it is not impossible for them to become infected. If black spots on the leaves precede the holes, the problem is likely black spot disease, a plague of many rose varieties. The fungus Diplocarpon rosae causes the disease, and you can usually treat it with anti-fungal sprays.
Chemical Damage
Granular fertilizers are concentrated mixes of necessary plant nutrients, such as nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium. But these fertilizers also tend to have a high salt concentration, and coupled with the nitrogen content it will cause burns the shape of the granular pellets on knock out rose leaves if it is left there. After time, the damaged areas might crumble away, leaving only holes.
Considerations
Other random sources of holes in knock out rose bush leaves are harder to pin. It might be a combination of high winds and a neighboring thorny plant, or perhaps cats are chewing on the lower leaves -- they often like to rub and taste leaves as they pass. Search first for the other three problems because insect, disease and chemical damage are potentially life threatening for knock out roses.
Insects
Rose slugs are actually not slugs, but the larvae of sawflies. Still, they're aptly named, and will chew holes in rose leaves. Get rid of them by treating the roses with insecticidal soap. Leaf cutter bees also plague knock out rose leaves when they're cutting away holes in the leaves to use in building their nests. They rarely take much from the plants, however, and their season is short. Knock out roses usually spring back well from this damage.
Diseases
While knock out roses are highly prized for their disease resistance, it is not impossible for them to become infected. If black spots on the leaves precede the holes, the problem is likely black spot disease, a plague of many rose varieties. The fungus Diplocarpon rosae causes the disease, and you can usually treat it with anti-fungal sprays.
Chemical Damage
Granular fertilizers are concentrated mixes of necessary plant nutrients, such as nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium. But these fertilizers also tend to have a high salt concentration, and coupled with the nitrogen content it will cause burns the shape of the granular pellets on knock out rose leaves if it is left there. After time, the damaged areas might crumble away, leaving only holes.
Considerations
Other random sources of holes in knock out rose bush leaves are harder to pin. It might be a combination of high winds and a neighboring thorny plant, or perhaps cats are chewing on the lower leaves -- they often like to rub and taste leaves as they pass. Search first for the other three problems because insect, disease and chemical damage are potentially life threatening for knock out roses.
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文章
Miss Chen
2017年08月10日
Black spot, or diplocarpon rosae, is one of the most dreaded diseases of roses. Black spots form on leaves and stems causing them to yellow and drop. A serious infection can cause complete defoliation of the plant. Adopting a regular schedule of applying fungicidal sprays can greatly reduce the scope and damage the fungus can do to your roses. You do not have to buy expensive potions from the garden center. Just mix up one of these proven recipes from ingredients you may have on hand at home.
Black Spot Spray Using Baking Soda
1 heaping tsp. baking soda 1 tbsp. horticultural dormant oil or vegetable oil 1 tsp. insecticidal soap or dish soap 1 gallon water 1 gallon-sized jug with cap for mixing and storage 1 quart spray bottle
Cornell University led the research years ago for using common baking soda as an anti-fungal agent. They found that the addition of oil is essential to the effectiveness of the recipe. Many other versions of the original recipe add a little dish soap, or insecticidal soap, to help the solution cling to the leaves, and to help control insect pests. If you want to keep the recipe organic, use dish soap instead of insecticidal soap.
Black Spot Spray Using Milk
1 cup of milk, any type 2 cups of water 1 quart spray bottle
Milk is a folk home-remedy for black spot on roses, but modern testing has proved it is an effective deterrent for fungus. The downside to using it is that it can get smelly, when applied too thickly, from decomposition of the milk fats.
Black Spot Spray with Mouthwash
1 tsp. vegetable oil 1 gallon water 1 tbsp. apple cider vinegar 1 tsp. unflavored antiseptic mouthwash, such as Listerine 1 tsp. liquid dish soap 1 ½ tsp .baking soda 1 quart spray bottle
Mouthwash is formulated to retard the growth of bacteria and fungus in the mouth. When combined with the other known fungicides like baking soda and vinegar, it becomes a powerful weapon in your arsenal against black spot.
Instructions for Making the Recipes and Applying Fungicidal Sprays for Black Spot
Combine all ingredients in the gallon-sized jug and secure the cap. Shake vigorously until ingredients are thoroughly mixed. Pour enough of the mixture from the gallon jug into the spray bottle to fill it up. Spray the roses weekly, in the morning, wetting them completely with the spray.
Tips for Battling Black Spot on Roses
Water roses well a day or two in advance of spray treatment. Start spraying in spring, when the leaves first emerge, and continue until frost. Reapply after rain. Avoid spraying in the heat of the day or at night. Remove and destroy any leaves or stems that show signs of black spot. Buy disease resistant varieties of roses. Do not allow plants to become crowded. Decreased air circulation will encourage the formation of black spot. Keep them pruned and trimmed for optimal air circulation.
Black Spot Spray Using Baking Soda
1 heaping tsp. baking soda 1 tbsp. horticultural dormant oil or vegetable oil 1 tsp. insecticidal soap or dish soap 1 gallon water 1 gallon-sized jug with cap for mixing and storage 1 quart spray bottle
Cornell University led the research years ago for using common baking soda as an anti-fungal agent. They found that the addition of oil is essential to the effectiveness of the recipe. Many other versions of the original recipe add a little dish soap, or insecticidal soap, to help the solution cling to the leaves, and to help control insect pests. If you want to keep the recipe organic, use dish soap instead of insecticidal soap.
Black Spot Spray Using Milk
1 cup of milk, any type 2 cups of water 1 quart spray bottle
Milk is a folk home-remedy for black spot on roses, but modern testing has proved it is an effective deterrent for fungus. The downside to using it is that it can get smelly, when applied too thickly, from decomposition of the milk fats.
Black Spot Spray with Mouthwash
1 tsp. vegetable oil 1 gallon water 1 tbsp. apple cider vinegar 1 tsp. unflavored antiseptic mouthwash, such as Listerine 1 tsp. liquid dish soap 1 ½ tsp .baking soda 1 quart spray bottle
Mouthwash is formulated to retard the growth of bacteria and fungus in the mouth. When combined with the other known fungicides like baking soda and vinegar, it becomes a powerful weapon in your arsenal against black spot.
Instructions for Making the Recipes and Applying Fungicidal Sprays for Black Spot
Combine all ingredients in the gallon-sized jug and secure the cap. Shake vigorously until ingredients are thoroughly mixed. Pour enough of the mixture from the gallon jug into the spray bottle to fill it up. Spray the roses weekly, in the morning, wetting them completely with the spray.
Tips for Battling Black Spot on Roses
Water roses well a day or two in advance of spray treatment. Start spraying in spring, when the leaves first emerge, and continue until frost. Reapply after rain. Avoid spraying in the heat of the day or at night. Remove and destroy any leaves or stems that show signs of black spot. Buy disease resistant varieties of roses. Do not allow plants to become crowded. Decreased air circulation will encourage the formation of black spot. Keep them pruned and trimmed for optimal air circulation.
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文章
Miss Chen
2017年08月10日
Roses can experience two major types of flies: syrphid flies and rose midges. One of these is actually a beneficial insect and the other means big trouble for rose plants. Flies pass by rose plants because they're a naturally occurring outdoor insect, but if you notice flies hanging around your rose plants repeatedly, you may have a problem.
Cause
Plants that are neglected or are not receiving adequate care tend to experience more pests than those that receive better care, but there is no guarantee that your plant will have a fly-free season. Unfortunately, flies and other garden pests are natural. However, providing your rose with the right care and treating the flies can reduce any problems.
Types
The rose midge is a destructive fly that can greatly harm rose plants. Adult rose midges lay eggs in the flowers; hatched larvae munch on flower buds. The affected flowers can wither and turn black. Larvae pupate in the soil beneath the plant, leading to a new generation of flies near the roses. If you don't break the cycle, your plants will suffer. Syrphid flies also enjoy roses, but these insects are beneficial since they eat aphids, another rose pest. These flies look like wasps, not flies, and feed on rose nectar. If you see these flies, there's nothing to worry about.
Treatment
Control rose midges with insecticides. Look for an insecticide that is approved for use in your area and apply the insecticide per the manufacturer's instructions. If you prefer natural pest control, use beneficial insects to eat the flies. Purchase predatory wasps online or at your local nursery. Placing landscape cloth below your roses means the rose midge larvae will fall onto the cloth to pupate. You can scoop up the cloth and throw it out, reducing your midge population.
Care
Good care cuts down on pests. Prune off dead branches and deadhead spent blossoms to maintain a neat bush. Water roses when the soil feels dry to the touch, until the soil becomes saturated. Watch for signs of diseases or pests so you can take action quickly and reduce potential harm to your rose.
Cause
Plants that are neglected or are not receiving adequate care tend to experience more pests than those that receive better care, but there is no guarantee that your plant will have a fly-free season. Unfortunately, flies and other garden pests are natural. However, providing your rose with the right care and treating the flies can reduce any problems.
Types
The rose midge is a destructive fly that can greatly harm rose plants. Adult rose midges lay eggs in the flowers; hatched larvae munch on flower buds. The affected flowers can wither and turn black. Larvae pupate in the soil beneath the plant, leading to a new generation of flies near the roses. If you don't break the cycle, your plants will suffer. Syrphid flies also enjoy roses, but these insects are beneficial since they eat aphids, another rose pest. These flies look like wasps, not flies, and feed on rose nectar. If you see these flies, there's nothing to worry about.
Treatment
Control rose midges with insecticides. Look for an insecticide that is approved for use in your area and apply the insecticide per the manufacturer's instructions. If you prefer natural pest control, use beneficial insects to eat the flies. Purchase predatory wasps online or at your local nursery. Placing landscape cloth below your roses means the rose midge larvae will fall onto the cloth to pupate. You can scoop up the cloth and throw it out, reducing your midge population.
Care
Good care cuts down on pests. Prune off dead branches and deadhead spent blossoms to maintain a neat bush. Water roses when the soil feels dry to the touch, until the soil becomes saturated. Watch for signs of diseases or pests so you can take action quickly and reduce potential harm to your rose.
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文章
Miss Chen
2017年08月10日
The classic flower for the wedding bouquet is the white rose. Eventually the white roses in your bouquet, corsage or floral arrangement will begin to turn brown, a natural occurrence as the blossom starts to fade. While this happens to all roses, the browning is more evident in white roses, as there is no color to conceal the evidence of the transformation. Taking special care when handling your roses can delay the process, allowing you to enjoy the flowers longer.
Step 1
Don't touch the blossom petals, to avoid bruising and browning the flower.
Step 2
Keep the roses in a cool location, away from heat sources, and avoid sudden changes of temperature or drafts of cold or hot air.
Step 3
Cut 1/2 inch from the stem, if it is a stemmed white rose, before placing it in a vase of water. Remove any leaves that will be covered with water when placed in the vase. Add the floral preservative that comes with the flower to the water, following the directions on the package.
Step 4
Keep the corsage or bouquet in the florist box until you are ready to wear it. This includes when you are traveling to your destination site.
Step 5
Wear the corsage blossom up, stem down.
Step 6
Store the florist box of white roses in the bottom shelf of the refrigerator.
Step 7
Add water to the foam of the corsage daily.
Step 1
Don't touch the blossom petals, to avoid bruising and browning the flower.
Step 2
Keep the roses in a cool location, away from heat sources, and avoid sudden changes of temperature or drafts of cold or hot air.
Step 3
Cut 1/2 inch from the stem, if it is a stemmed white rose, before placing it in a vase of water. Remove any leaves that will be covered with water when placed in the vase. Add the floral preservative that comes with the flower to the water, following the directions on the package.
Step 4
Keep the corsage or bouquet in the florist box until you are ready to wear it. This includes when you are traveling to your destination site.
Step 5
Wear the corsage blossom up, stem down.
Step 6
Store the florist box of white roses in the bottom shelf of the refrigerator.
Step 7
Add water to the foam of the corsage daily.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月06日
BOTANICAL NAME: Rosa
PLANT TYPE: Flower
SOIL TYPE: Loamy
BLOOM TIME: SpringSummerFall
Rose bushes come in a variety of forms, from climbing roses to miniature rose plants, blooming mainly in early summer and fall.. One way to group roses into classes is according to their date of introduction:
Old roses—also called “old-fashioned roses” and “heirloom roses”—are those introduced prior to 1867. These are the lush, invariably fragrant roses found in old masters’ paintings. There are hundreds of old rose varieties—whose hardiness varies—providing choices for both warm and mild climates.
Modern hybrid roses are sturdy, long-blooming, extremely hardy and disease-resistant, and bred for color, shape, size, and fragrance.
Species, or wild, are those that have been growing wild for many thousands of years. These wild roses have been adapted to modern gardens and usually bloom in the spring.
PLANTING
Preparing the Soil
Roses prefer a near-neutral pH range of 5.5–7.0. A pH of 6.5 is just about right for most home gardens (slightly acidic to neutral).
An accurate soil test will tell you where your pH currently stands. Acidic (sour) soil is counteracted by applying finely ground limestone, and alkaline (sweet) soil is treated with ground sulfur.
Before you plant, be sure that you choose varieties proven in your climate. When in doubt, All-America Rose Selections winners are good bets. Or check with your local nursery.
Ordering Plants
If you order roses from a mail-order company, order early, in January or February (March at the latest). They are usually shipped in the spring as bare roots when plants are fully dormant, well before they have leafed out. They’ll look like a bundle of sticks on arrival. Note that they are not dead—simply dormant.
If you are buying container-grown roses (vs. bare-root roses), plant them by May or early June for best results.
Planting Tips
Plant roses where they will receive a minimum of 5 to 6 hours of full sun per day. Roses grown in weak sun may not die at once, but they weaken gradually. Give them plenty of organic matter when planting and don’t crowd them.
Wear sturdy gloves to protect your hands from prickly thorns. Have a hose or bucket of water and all your planting tools nearby. Keep your bare-root rose in water until you are ready to place it in the ground.
Roses can be cut back and moved in either spring or fall, but not in midsummer, as they might suffer and die in the heat. Large rose canes can be cut back by as much as two thirds, and smaller ones to within 6 to 12 inches of the ground.
When you transplant your roses, be sure to dig a much bigger hole than you think you need (for most types, the planting hole should be about 15 to 18 inches wide) and add plenty of organic matter such as compost or aged manure.
Some old-timers recommend placing a 4-inch square of gypsum wallboard and a 16-penny nail in the hole to provide calcium and iron, both appreciated by roses.
CARE
Watering Roses
Diligently water your roses. Soak the entire root zone at least twice a week in dry summer weather. Avoid frequent shallow sprinklings, which won’t reach the deeper roots and may encourage fungus. Roses do best with 90 inches of rain per year, so unless you live in a rain forest, water regularly.
Roses love water—but don’t drown them. That is, they don’t like to sit in water, and they’ll die if the soil is too wet in winter. The ideal soil is rich and loose, with good drainage. One of the worst mistakes you can make is to not provide adequate drainage.
Use mulch. To help conserve water, reduce stress, and encourage healthy growth, apply a 2- to 4-inch layer of chopped and shredded leaves, grass clippings, or shredded bark around the base of your roses. Allow about an inch of space between the mulch and the base stem of the plant.
Feeding Roses
Feed roses on a regular basis before and throughout the blooming cycle (avoid chemical fertilizers and pesticides if you’re harvesting for the kitchen).
Once a month between April and July, apply a balanced granular fertilizer (5-10-5 or 5-10-10). Allow ¾ to 1 cup for each bush, and sprinkle it around the drip line, not against the stem. See our fertilizer guide for more information.
In May and June, scratch in an additional tablespoon of Epsom salts along with your fertilizer; the magnesium sulfate will encourage new growth from the bottom of the bush.
Pruning Roses
Prune roses every spring and destroy all old or diseased plant material. Wear elbow-length gloves that are thick enough to protect your hands from thorns or a clumsy slip, but flexible enough to allow you to hold your tools. Always wear safety goggles; branches can whip back when released.
Start with pruning shears for smaller growth. Use loppers, which look like giant, long-handle shears, for growth that is more than half an inch thick. A small pruning saw is handy, as it cuts on both the push and the pull.
Deadhead religiously and keep beds clean. Every leaf has a growth bud, so removing old flower blossoms encourages the plant to make more flowers instead of using the energy to make seeds. Clean away from around the base of the rosebushes any trimmed debris that can harbor disease and insects.
Late in the season, stop deadheading rugosas so that hips will form on the plants; these can be harvested and dried on screens, away from sunlight, then stored in an airtight container. Stop deadheading all your rose plants 3 to 4 weeks before the first hard frost so as not to encourage new growth at a time when new shoots may be damaged by the cold.
Winterizing Roses
Do not prune roses in the fall. Simply cut off any dead or diseased canes.
Stop fertilizing 6 weeks before the first frost but continue watering during dry autumn weather to help keep plants fortified during the dry winter.
Mound, mulch, or add compost after a few frosts but before the ground freezes. Where temperatures stay below freezing during winter, enclose the plant with a sturdy mesh cylinder, filling the enclosure with compost, mulch, dry wood chips, pine needles, or chopped leaves.
Don’t use heavy, wet, maple leaves for mulch. Mulch instead with oak leaves, pine needles, compost, or straw.
Clean up the rose beds to prevent overwintering of diseases. One last spray for fungus with a dormant spray is a good idea.
PESTS/DISEASES
Good gardening practices such as removing dead leaves and canes will help reduce pests. Find out which pests are most prevalent in your area by checking with your local nursery. Here are some of the more common problems:
Japanese Beetles
Aphids: To keep aphids away from roses, plant garlic and mint around the roses.
Black Spot: Rose plant leaves with black spots that eventually turn yellow have black spot, often caused by water splashing on leaves, especially in rainy weather. Leaves may require a protective fungicide coating, which would start in the summer before leaf spots started until first frost. Thoroughly clean up debris in the fall, and prune out all diseased canes.
Powdery Mildew: If leaves, buds, and stems are covered with a white powdery coating, this is a mildew disease; mildew develops rapidly during warm, humid weather. During new growth, prevent mildew by spraying or dusting canes and leaf surfaces with fungicide. Prevent mildew by pruning out all dead or diseased canes in the spring. Destroy all diseased parts during the growing season.
Botrytis Blight: If the rose’s flower buds droop, stay closed, or turn brown, it has this grey fungus. Prune off all infected blossoms and remove any dead material. Fungicide application may be necessary.
Spider Mites
Thrips
Rust
Stem Borers
Deer: Roses are a delectable tidbit, so try planting lavender near your roses. Not only will you have the makings of a nice potpourri, but the scent of lavender will discourage browsers. You can also spread human or dog hair around the garden area or check our list of deer-resistant plants to protect your roses.
In general, avoid rose issues by buying disease-resistant varieties and cleaning up debris, weeds, fallen leaves and any diseased plant material as soon as possible.
PLANT TYPE: Flower
SOIL TYPE: Loamy
BLOOM TIME: SpringSummerFall
Rose bushes come in a variety of forms, from climbing roses to miniature rose plants, blooming mainly in early summer and fall.. One way to group roses into classes is according to their date of introduction:
Old roses—also called “old-fashioned roses” and “heirloom roses”—are those introduced prior to 1867. These are the lush, invariably fragrant roses found in old masters’ paintings. There are hundreds of old rose varieties—whose hardiness varies—providing choices for both warm and mild climates.
Modern hybrid roses are sturdy, long-blooming, extremely hardy and disease-resistant, and bred for color, shape, size, and fragrance.
Species, or wild, are those that have been growing wild for many thousands of years. These wild roses have been adapted to modern gardens and usually bloom in the spring.
PLANTING
Preparing the Soil
Roses prefer a near-neutral pH range of 5.5–7.0. A pH of 6.5 is just about right for most home gardens (slightly acidic to neutral).
An accurate soil test will tell you where your pH currently stands. Acidic (sour) soil is counteracted by applying finely ground limestone, and alkaline (sweet) soil is treated with ground sulfur.
Before you plant, be sure that you choose varieties proven in your climate. When in doubt, All-America Rose Selections winners are good bets. Or check with your local nursery.
Ordering Plants
If you order roses from a mail-order company, order early, in January or February (March at the latest). They are usually shipped in the spring as bare roots when plants are fully dormant, well before they have leafed out. They’ll look like a bundle of sticks on arrival. Note that they are not dead—simply dormant.
If you are buying container-grown roses (vs. bare-root roses), plant them by May or early June for best results.
Planting Tips
Plant roses where they will receive a minimum of 5 to 6 hours of full sun per day. Roses grown in weak sun may not die at once, but they weaken gradually. Give them plenty of organic matter when planting and don’t crowd them.
Wear sturdy gloves to protect your hands from prickly thorns. Have a hose or bucket of water and all your planting tools nearby. Keep your bare-root rose in water until you are ready to place it in the ground.
Roses can be cut back and moved in either spring or fall, but not in midsummer, as they might suffer and die in the heat. Large rose canes can be cut back by as much as two thirds, and smaller ones to within 6 to 12 inches of the ground.
When you transplant your roses, be sure to dig a much bigger hole than you think you need (for most types, the planting hole should be about 15 to 18 inches wide) and add plenty of organic matter such as compost or aged manure.
Some old-timers recommend placing a 4-inch square of gypsum wallboard and a 16-penny nail in the hole to provide calcium and iron, both appreciated by roses.
CARE
Watering Roses
Diligently water your roses. Soak the entire root zone at least twice a week in dry summer weather. Avoid frequent shallow sprinklings, which won’t reach the deeper roots and may encourage fungus. Roses do best with 90 inches of rain per year, so unless you live in a rain forest, water regularly.
Roses love water—but don’t drown them. That is, they don’t like to sit in water, and they’ll die if the soil is too wet in winter. The ideal soil is rich and loose, with good drainage. One of the worst mistakes you can make is to not provide adequate drainage.
Use mulch. To help conserve water, reduce stress, and encourage healthy growth, apply a 2- to 4-inch layer of chopped and shredded leaves, grass clippings, or shredded bark around the base of your roses. Allow about an inch of space between the mulch and the base stem of the plant.
Feeding Roses
Feed roses on a regular basis before and throughout the blooming cycle (avoid chemical fertilizers and pesticides if you’re harvesting for the kitchen).
Once a month between April and July, apply a balanced granular fertilizer (5-10-5 or 5-10-10). Allow ¾ to 1 cup for each bush, and sprinkle it around the drip line, not against the stem. See our fertilizer guide for more information.
In May and June, scratch in an additional tablespoon of Epsom salts along with your fertilizer; the magnesium sulfate will encourage new growth from the bottom of the bush.
Pruning Roses
Prune roses every spring and destroy all old or diseased plant material. Wear elbow-length gloves that are thick enough to protect your hands from thorns or a clumsy slip, but flexible enough to allow you to hold your tools. Always wear safety goggles; branches can whip back when released.
Start with pruning shears for smaller growth. Use loppers, which look like giant, long-handle shears, for growth that is more than half an inch thick. A small pruning saw is handy, as it cuts on both the push and the pull.
Deadhead religiously and keep beds clean. Every leaf has a growth bud, so removing old flower blossoms encourages the plant to make more flowers instead of using the energy to make seeds. Clean away from around the base of the rosebushes any trimmed debris that can harbor disease and insects.
Late in the season, stop deadheading rugosas so that hips will form on the plants; these can be harvested and dried on screens, away from sunlight, then stored in an airtight container. Stop deadheading all your rose plants 3 to 4 weeks before the first hard frost so as not to encourage new growth at a time when new shoots may be damaged by the cold.
Winterizing Roses
Do not prune roses in the fall. Simply cut off any dead or diseased canes.
Stop fertilizing 6 weeks before the first frost but continue watering during dry autumn weather to help keep plants fortified during the dry winter.
Mound, mulch, or add compost after a few frosts but before the ground freezes. Where temperatures stay below freezing during winter, enclose the plant with a sturdy mesh cylinder, filling the enclosure with compost, mulch, dry wood chips, pine needles, or chopped leaves.
Don’t use heavy, wet, maple leaves for mulch. Mulch instead with oak leaves, pine needles, compost, or straw.
Clean up the rose beds to prevent overwintering of diseases. One last spray for fungus with a dormant spray is a good idea.
PESTS/DISEASES
Good gardening practices such as removing dead leaves and canes will help reduce pests. Find out which pests are most prevalent in your area by checking with your local nursery. Here are some of the more common problems:
Japanese Beetles
Aphids: To keep aphids away from roses, plant garlic and mint around the roses.
Black Spot: Rose plant leaves with black spots that eventually turn yellow have black spot, often caused by water splashing on leaves, especially in rainy weather. Leaves may require a protective fungicide coating, which would start in the summer before leaf spots started until first frost. Thoroughly clean up debris in the fall, and prune out all diseased canes.
Powdery Mildew: If leaves, buds, and stems are covered with a white powdery coating, this is a mildew disease; mildew develops rapidly during warm, humid weather. During new growth, prevent mildew by spraying or dusting canes and leaf surfaces with fungicide. Prevent mildew by pruning out all dead or diseased canes in the spring. Destroy all diseased parts during the growing season.
Botrytis Blight: If the rose’s flower buds droop, stay closed, or turn brown, it has this grey fungus. Prune off all infected blossoms and remove any dead material. Fungicide application may be necessary.
Spider Mites
Thrips
Rust
Stem Borers
Deer: Roses are a delectable tidbit, so try planting lavender near your roses. Not only will you have the makings of a nice potpourri, but the scent of lavender will discourage browsers. You can also spread human or dog hair around the garden area or check our list of deer-resistant plants to protect your roses.
In general, avoid rose issues by buying disease-resistant varieties and cleaning up debris, weeds, fallen leaves and any diseased plant material as soon as possible.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月04日
Caring for Roses Is Easier than You Think
The last thing you need in your hectic day is a high-maintenance flower in your garden. Fortunately, caring for roses is not as complicated as it is often thought to be. With a little extra attention to feeding, watering and pruning, roses will transform and elevate your garden, whether you're working with easy-to-grow miniature roses, shrubs or the more challenging climbing varieties.
Watering Your Roses
Roses crave sunlight and generous helpings of food and water. In most climates, provide at least six hours of sunlight per day. If you live in a very hot climate, plant them where they are shaded from the hot afternoon sun. When watering, water at the base of the plant, and provide about an inch of water per week. Using a soaker hose is ideal for roses because it delivers water directly to the roots and keeps the leaves dry. It's also best to water in the morning, so if the leaves do get wet they will have plenty of time to dry.
Feeding Your Roses
Roses should be fed in the early spring just as their leaves begin to grow. Roses that bloom continuously are hungry and benefit from nourishment, so feed your roses every 2 weeks with a water soluble rose food, such as Miracle-Gro® Water Soluble Rose Food. Or, for a longer lasting solution, use a continuous release plant food, such as Miracle-Gro® Shake 'n Feed® Continuous Release Rose Plant Food, which will feed for up to 3 months.
Pruning Your Roses
For roses that bloom continuously, removing faded blossoms will encourage your rose bushes to produce more flowers. Snip off the spent flowers below the bloom just above the first leaflet. Since leaves are the energy factories for your roses, leaving the foliage intact will result in more flowers. Stop removing faded blooms in early fall to encourage your rose bush to prepare for winter. If you grow roses that flower in clusters, like the grandiflora or floribunda types, you?ll notice a center bud that tends to dominate the cluster and flower first. If you remove it, the result will be a full floral spray without a hole in the center. Removing the center bud also helps prevent fungal diseases. On the other hand, if you grow hybrid tea roses, removing the buds that form below the flower bud at the top of stem will produce a larger flower.
Retain Moisture With Mulch
You can keep more moisture in the ground and also help block weeds with a 3-inch covering of mulch, such as Scotts® Nature Scapes® Advanced Color Enhanced Mulch. Do not apply mulch within 6 inches of the base of your rose plants. And, ideally, the mulch used around roses should be completely replaced each spring to help control disease problems.
Protecting Your Roses In Winter
Roses need a little time to prepare for winter. Stop feeding them in late summer and removing faded blooms in early fall. This will encourage them to slow their growth and enter the dormant stage before winter. After a hard frost has caused most of the leaves to fall of the plant, cover the base of your rose bushes with a 10 to 12 inch layer of well-drained compost or mulch. If you live in a particularly cold climate, you can also wrap your rose bushes in burlap or cover them with extruded-foam caps (also known as rose cones) to help protect your roses during the winter. The key is to not cover your roses too early ? wait until the temperatures stay cold.
The last thing you need in your hectic day is a high-maintenance flower in your garden. Fortunately, caring for roses is not as complicated as it is often thought to be. With a little extra attention to feeding, watering and pruning, roses will transform and elevate your garden, whether you're working with easy-to-grow miniature roses, shrubs or the more challenging climbing varieties.
Watering Your Roses
Roses crave sunlight and generous helpings of food and water. In most climates, provide at least six hours of sunlight per day. If you live in a very hot climate, plant them where they are shaded from the hot afternoon sun. When watering, water at the base of the plant, and provide about an inch of water per week. Using a soaker hose is ideal for roses because it delivers water directly to the roots and keeps the leaves dry. It's also best to water in the morning, so if the leaves do get wet they will have plenty of time to dry.
Feeding Your Roses
Roses should be fed in the early spring just as their leaves begin to grow. Roses that bloom continuously are hungry and benefit from nourishment, so feed your roses every 2 weeks with a water soluble rose food, such as Miracle-Gro® Water Soluble Rose Food. Or, for a longer lasting solution, use a continuous release plant food, such as Miracle-Gro® Shake 'n Feed® Continuous Release Rose Plant Food, which will feed for up to 3 months.
Pruning Your Roses
For roses that bloom continuously, removing faded blossoms will encourage your rose bushes to produce more flowers. Snip off the spent flowers below the bloom just above the first leaflet. Since leaves are the energy factories for your roses, leaving the foliage intact will result in more flowers. Stop removing faded blooms in early fall to encourage your rose bush to prepare for winter. If you grow roses that flower in clusters, like the grandiflora or floribunda types, you?ll notice a center bud that tends to dominate the cluster and flower first. If you remove it, the result will be a full floral spray without a hole in the center. Removing the center bud also helps prevent fungal diseases. On the other hand, if you grow hybrid tea roses, removing the buds that form below the flower bud at the top of stem will produce a larger flower.
Retain Moisture With Mulch
You can keep more moisture in the ground and also help block weeds with a 3-inch covering of mulch, such as Scotts® Nature Scapes® Advanced Color Enhanced Mulch. Do not apply mulch within 6 inches of the base of your rose plants. And, ideally, the mulch used around roses should be completely replaced each spring to help control disease problems.
Protecting Your Roses In Winter
Roses need a little time to prepare for winter. Stop feeding them in late summer and removing faded blooms in early fall. This will encourage them to slow their growth and enter the dormant stage before winter. After a hard frost has caused most of the leaves to fall of the plant, cover the base of your rose bushes with a 10 to 12 inch layer of well-drained compost or mulch. If you live in a particularly cold climate, you can also wrap your rose bushes in burlap or cover them with extruded-foam caps (also known as rose cones) to help protect your roses during the winter. The key is to not cover your roses too early ? wait until the temperatures stay cold.
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