Blue第12页 - 绿手指 - 养花技巧、花生病了怎么办、花园打理和设计

2017年10月01日

Scientific Name
Sedum caeruleum L.

Common Names
Azure Stonecrop, Blue Stonecrop, Sky Stone Crop, Baby-blue Stone Crop, Red Leaf, Barbary Stones
Synonyms
Anacampseros caerulescens, Oreosedum caeruleum, Sedum azureum, Sedum coeruleum, Sedum heptapetalum
Scientific Classification
Family: Crassulaceae
Subfamily: Sedoideae
Tribe: Sedeae
Subtribe: Sedinae
Genus: Sedum

Description
Sedum caeruleum is an annual, succulent, bushy herb, simple or much branched from the base, erect, up to 6 inches (15 cm) tall. The leaves are green, narrowly oblong and usually tinted red, up to 1 inch (2.5 cm) long. It produces cymes of pale blue or white (rarely pinkish), many-stellate flowers from July to September.

How to Grow and Care
When growing Sedum, keep in mind that Sedum plants need very little attention or care. They will thrive in conditions that many other plants thrive in, but will do just as well in less hospitable areas. They are ideal for that part of your yard that gets too much sun or too little water to grow anything else. A common name for Sedum is Stonecrop, due to the fact that many gardeners joke that only stones need less care and live longer.

Sedum is easily planted. For shorter varieties, simply laying the plant on the ground where you want it to grow is normally enough to get the Sedum plant started there. They will send out roots from wherever the stem is touching the ground and root itself. If you would like to further ensure that the plant will start there, you can add a very thin covering of soil over the plant. For taller Sedum varieties, you can break off one of the stems and push it into the ground where you would like to grow it.

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Scientific Name
Puya berteroniana Mez

Common Names
Blue Puya, Turquoise Puya, Aqua Sapphire Tower
Scientific Classification
Family: Bromeliaceae
Subfamily: Pitcairnioideae
Genus: Puya

Flower
Color: Blue
Bloom Time: October to November
Description
Puya berteroniana is a perennial plant with leaves in tight rosettes. The leaves are long, thin, bent, up to 40 inches (1 m) long, up to 1 inch (2.5 cm) wide, silvery-green in color and have hard spines on the edges. The aqua-blue or blue-green colored flowers are arranged like spikes. Flowers from October to November.

How to Grow and Care
You can get Blue Puya seed and start the plants yourself in a greenhouse. Puya are slow to germinate and require temperatures of at least 70 degrees Fahrenheit (21 degrees Celsius). Use a well-drained potting soil in a seed flat. Keep the seeds moderately moist until they sprout. Once you see seedlings, move the flat to a brightly lit area with protection from the harsh light of midday.
Transplant the seedlings when they have formed a rosette. Plants can tolerate a crowded pot. In USDA zones 8 to 11, you can transplant rosettes to the garden but in other zones they will have to be moved indoors in winter. Up until the cold temperatures appear, Blue Puya makes a great patio specimen.
Water Puya plants in the ground once per week in summer. Potted plants should be watered when the top couple of inches of soil have dried out. Water the plant only once per month in winter when the plant is dormant. Fertilize with a diluted succulent food or indoor plant food in spring. Remove spent foliage from the rosettes for best appearance.
Origin
Endemic to Chile.

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Miss Chen

Blue tulips are not a natural phenomenon. To create blue tulips, white tulips may be dyed to achieve the right color. Hybrid tulip species in shades of violet and lilac may also be created to make blue blossoms. Tulip flowers. which are often associated with Holland, grow naturally in a wide variety of shades. Deep violet tulips are often commonly called blue tulips.

Features
Blue tulips, like other tulip flowers, grow in an upright, bell-like shape. Tulips grow eight to 28 inches in height, with leaves that grow in a gray-blue shade. Blue tulips are short, the flowers blue-violet or lilac in color. Many types of violet and deep purple tulips are available to gardeners. Breeder, Darwin, Parrot, Cottage, Lily-flowered and Early tulips are the most popular varieties of blue-purple tulips. Blue tulips are also called pasque flower, wild crocus, lion's beard and prairie anemone.

Origins
Tulips originate from Persia and Turkey. In Turkey, tulip flowers were used as an adornment on turbans. Because of the fashion trend, Europeans named the flowers after the Persian word for turban. Popularity for the flower spread into the Netherlands, giving cultivated varieties of the plant the nickname "Dutch tulips." Available in a wide range of colors, tulips today are a popular choice among brides, gardeners and florists.

Meaning of Flowers
The Language of Flowers was invented during the Victorian Era, when it became fashionable to exchange messages by giving flowers. Each flower has its own meaning, with different flower colors often representing new shades of meaning. Through flowers, it's possible to express love, desire, sorrow, friendship and many other emotions.

Meaning of Blue Flowers
The color blue is symbolic of tranquility, sleep and calm. Dark blue is said to stand for truth. Blue flowers often grow with shades of purple, creating indigo, violent and lilac blooms. Blue flowers were used as the main symbol of Romanticism, a school of philosophy that flourished during the latter half of the Victorian Age. The blue flower conveys love and desire.

Meaning of Blue Tulips
Blue tulips are thought to symbolize tranquility and peace because of the blue color. When given to someone else, the flowers convey a message of trust and loyalty. In general, tulips are thought to send a message of perfect love, though red tulips are most strongly associated with the emotion.

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Scientific Name
Passiflora caerulea L.

Common Names
Blue Passion Flower, Blue Crown Passion Flower, Common Passion Flower, Hardy Passion Flower, Passion Vine
Synonyms
Passiflora loureiroi, Passiflora selloi
Scientific Classification
Family: Passifloraceae
Genus: Passiflora

Flower
Color: White and blue or violet
Bloom Time: Mid summer to early fall
Description
Passiflora caerulea is a woody vine capable of growing up to 65 feet (20 m) high where supporting trees are available. The leaves are alternate, palmately, five-lobed, like a spread hand (sometimes 3 or 7 lobes), up to 7 inches (18 cm) long and wide. The base of each leaf has a flagellate-twining tendril up to 4 inches (10 cm) long, which twines around supporting vegetation to hold the plant up. The flower is complex, up to 4 inches (10 cm) in diameter, with the 5 sepals and petals similar in appearance, whitish in color, surmounted by a corona of filaments, then 5 greenish-yellow stamens and three purple stigmas. The fruit is an oval, orange-yellow berry up to 2.4 inches (6 cm) long and up to 1.6 inches (4 cm) in diameter, containing numerous seeds.
Hardiness
USDA hardiness zone 6a to 10b: from −10 °F (−23.3 °C) to 40 °F (+4.4 °C).

How to Grow and Care
Their vibrant colors and heady fragrance make the Passion Flower a welcome addition to any garden. Unfortunately, because of its origins, most species of Passion Flower plant can’t overwinter in many gardens in the United States, although there are a few that will survive up to USDA plant hardiness zone 5. Most varieties will grow in Zones 7-10.
Because they are vines, the best place for growing Passion Flower is along a trellis or fence. The tops will be killed off during winter, but if you mulch deeply, your Passion Flower plant will return with new shoots in the spring. Since growing Passion Flowers can reach 20 feet (6 m) in a single season, this die back will help keep the vine under control.
Tropical Passion Flowers need full sun and well drained soil. Two applications of a well-balanced fertilizer per year, once in early spring and one in midsummer is all the Passion Flower care you’ll need.
Origin
Native to South America (Argentina, Chile, Paraguay, Uruguay and Brazil).

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Scientific Name
Ferocactus glaucescens (DC.) Britton & Rose

Common Names
Blue Barrel Cactus, Glaucous Barrel Cactus
Synonyms
Bisnaga glaucescens, Echinocactus glaucescens, Echinocactus pfeifferi, Ferocactus pfeifferi
Scientific Classification
Family: Cactaceae
Subfamily: Cactoideae
Tribe: Cacteae
Genus: Ferocactus

Flower
Color: Yellow
Bloom Time: Late spring and summer
Description
Ferocactus glaucescens is a generally solitary, barrel cactus with bluish green stems up to 22 inches (55 cm) tall and 20 inches (50 cm) in diameter, 11 to 15 ribs, 0 or 1 central spine, and straight, light yellow 6 or 7 radial spines, up to 1.6 inches (4 cm) long. The flowers are lemon yellow, funnel-shaped and up to 1.6 inches (4 cm) in diameter. The plants start flowering when about 5 inches (12.5 cm) in diameter. The fruits are white, 0.8 inch (2 cm) long with the remnants of the flowers attached.

How to Grow and Care
Choose a planting location that receives direct sun during all or most of the day. Water the cactus at the time of planting to anchor it into the soil. Plant your Barrel Cactus in early spring before new roots begin to form in late June and early July. The roots may appear dry, but that is typical before new growth begins. Dig a hole deep enough for the plant’s roots and amend it as needed to provide fast-draining soil.
A good soil mixture includes 10 percent native soil, 45 percent washed sand or pumice and 45 percent compost. Ferocactus thrives in poor and arid soil. Water the cactus at the time of planting to anchor it into the soil. Water again only if the weather in your area is unseasonably dry and if normal spring or winter rainfall doesn’t occur.
Origin
Native to eastern Central Mexico.

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Borage (Borago) is a freely seeding, easy growing annual plant with vivid blue flowers and leaves with the flavor of cucumbers. It is consider an herb, but is often grown as a flower in vegetable gardens where it attracts pollinating bees and is considered a good companion plant for tomatoes, squash and strawberries. It’s even supposed to deter tomato hornworms and improve the flavor of tomatoes growing nearby.

Borage can bloom from late spring through summer. Staggering your planting times will give you a longer period of bloom and provide a longer harvest time.
Borage is actually a somewhat gangly plant, but you barely notice it because the star-shaped flowers are so vibrant. They’re a true blue, hanging in downward facing clusters. Even the fuzzy white buds are attractive. Both the flowers and the leaves are edible, with a cucumber-like flavor. Use the leaves while they are young, because as the plant matures, the stalks and leaves become covered with a prickly fuzz.

Design Suggestions
Borage is often grown in the vegetable or herb garden because it is such a bee magnet and because it is considered a good growing companion for other plants. However, it is equally beautiful in a cottage style flower garden, where it has room to self-seed. Harvesting or deadheading will keep it in bloom longer.
Growing Tips
Borage grows best if direct seeded. Barely cover the seeds with soil and keep well watered. They are tolerant of any type soil, even poor dry soil. However a sunny location with rich, well draining soil is optimal.

If you choose to start seedlings, transplant before they become pot bound. Plan to start seedlings about 3-4 weeks before the last expected frost and don’t transplant outdoors until the soil has warmed. Once seedling are about 2 to 3 inches (5 to 7.5 cm) tall, thin to approximately 12 inches (40 cm) apart.
Maintenance: Plants in poor soil will benefit from periodic feeding with any fertilizer labeled for use on edible plants. Something with a high phosphorous number (the middle number on a fertilizer package) will help keep them in flower. Plants can be pinched or pruned, to encourage branching and to keep them shorter.

Harvesting: Harvest leaves and flowers as needed. Older leaves will get prickly, making harvesting anything on the plant a bit unpleasant. However, the flowers do add a bit of flavor and a great deal of color to salads, soups, dips & spreads, open face sandwiches, beverages and ice cubes. As with all edible flowers, use sparingly until you know how they effect you. Borage is said to have a mild laxative effect.

Borage is open pollinated and it is very easy to collect and save the seed from flowers allowed to remain on the plant and turn brown. Borage self-seeds readily, if allowed to go to seed naturally. Excess plants are fairly easy to remove from the garden.

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Blue Puya, or Turquoise Puya, is a bromeliad and closely related to the pineapple. The plant is a rare specimen that hails from Chile in the Andes Mountains. It is part of several cactus and succulent plant collections but is not found wild in North America. Seeds are available to order or you may be able to get a hold of a division if you are lucky. These are the two main ways of propagating Puya plants and enjoying for yourself the majestic flower spires and classic rosettes of this succulent.

Read on to learn how to grow Blue Puya and astound your friends and make fellow gardeners envious with the daring and bold form.
Puya berteroniana is an arid climate terrestrial bromeliad. The plant is sold under the name Aqua Sapphire Tower which is an appropriate description for the infrequent colossal flower clusters it produces when mature. The Blue Puya plant is found in the upper elevations of arid Chile. It is a hardy plant that grows 3 to 4 feet (0.9 to 1.2 m) in height from a basal rosette form of silvery gray leaves with toothed edges. The flower stalks may be up to 6 to 7 feet (1.8 to 2.1 m) in height and are decorated with magnificent turquoise flowers with deeply orange anthers. The effect is quite impressive and unique in the plant world but it may take 6 to 8 years for flowers to appear. Over time the plant will form offsets or pups. These are easily divided up as an easy way of propagating Puya plants.

Growing Conditions and General Care
You can get Puya seed and start the plants yourself in a greenhouse. Puya are slow to germinate and require temperatures of at least 70 degrees Fahrenheit (21 degrees Celsius). Use a well-drained potting soil in a seed flat. Keep the seeds moderately moist until they sprout. Once you see seedlings, move the flat to a brightly lit area with protection from the harsh light of midday.
Transplant the seedlings when they have formed a rosette. Plants can tolerate a crowded pot. In USDA zones 8 to 11, you can transplant rosettes to the garden but in other zones they will have to be moved indoors in winter. Up until the cold temperatures appear, Blue Puya makes a great patio specimen.

Water Puya plants in the ground once per week in summer. Potted plants should be watered when the top couple of inches of soil have dried out. Water the plant only once per month in winter when the plant is dormant. Fertilize with a diluted succulent food or indoor plant food in spring. Remove spent foliage from the rosettes for best appearance. The pups can be cut away with a sharp, sterile knife and potted up for a new supply of the plants. Blue Puya care is easy as long as you have well-drained soil, a fairly sunny location and warm temperatures. The plants are even drought tolerant for short periods once established.

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Greater Celandine (Chelidonium majus) is alovely shade loving perennial plant that is ideal for woodland settings. Will naturalize in woodlands and bring them to life in late spring with a mass of bright yellow flowers floating in blue-green foliage.

Once established these plants take little or no maintenance. It is a short lived perennial hardy to zone 6 but it will self seed in suitable surroundings and may take over an area if not watched. It likes a good moist soil, which is most often found in woodlands, but it will also grow on semi shaded walls and rock gardens. Ideal for rocky wooded locations. Due to the alkaloid content this plant is not eaten by deer or rabbits. All parts of the plant will exude a yellow/orange sap when broken. This can cause skin problems in some people. The plant is considered to be mildly poisonous.

It is reported that the leaves can be eaten if boiled well and water changed several times.
Greater Celandine has a long history of use in herbal medicine. The leaves and the sap are used most often as a mild sedative detoxifying and antispasmodic especially for relaxing the bronchial tubes, intestines and muscles as well as whooping cough, asthma, jaundice, gallstones and gallbladder pains. Caution should be taken when using this herb internally since it contains the many alkaloids that are considered toxic. The orange sap is used externally to treat warts, ringworm and corns as well as films from the cornea of the eye. The roots are also used and research has shown them to have possible anticancer properties.

Growing Conditions and General Care
Greater Celandine will grow in almost any soil except waterlogged but it does like a reasonable amount of water. Ideal plant for part or full shade but it will grow in full sun in lower zones (6 and 7) provided it has moisture. Prefers a rich woodland soil in semi shade with decent moisture. It is an excellent choice for growing on partially shaded walls or in rock gardens provided there is a pocket of soil to establish its roots. It is a short lived perennial but it will self seed in suitable locations, sometimes aggressively and will take over thin woodland areas if left alone.

Growing from Seed
Germination can be slow and erratic with some seeds taking up to twelve months to sprout. Can be sown in place in early spring or late fall. If choosing this approach keep weeds in the area to a minimum to allow seeds time to germinate and plants to establish. Once the first ones are established they often self seed and proliferate, but this can take several years to achieve. Seeds and also be started in pots. Individual pots with several seeds per pot or cell flats are recommended so seedlings can be removed as they grow without disturbing other seeds. Some will often germinate rapidly but others may not so patience is needed. Start indoors in later winter and remove plants as they become large enough to transplant. Place rest of growing medium outside in a semi shaded area and continue to water throughout the year picking out seedlings as they appear. It is best if they pots/flat are placed on a bench or shelf to reduce weed seed introduction to the growing medium. Trays can be left out over winter if all the seeds have still not germinated.

Harvesting
Greater Celandine plants are harvested during the spring when they begin to bloom. Herb can be used fresh or dried for later use. Roots are harvested in the fall when they are at their peak. These can also be dried for later use. It is highly recommended that gloves be worn when harvesting any of this plant from leaves, roots or seeds. The latex is mildly toxic and many people have a allergic reaction that can cause rashes and skin.

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Forget-Me-Not (Myosotis sylvatica) make excellent indoor container plants, requiring little care to maintain their gray-green foliage and clusters of tiny, light-blue flowers that appear throughout spring and early summer. The plants perform best in moist but well-drained soil. So a light, standard potting mix works well. Because Forget-Me-Not require plenty of air circulation, grow each plant individually in its own 12-inch/-30 cm-diameter container with bottom drainage holes. The plants are pest-resistant and even grow in nutrient-poor soil. So fertilizing them isn’t necessary. Forget-Me-Not is hardy in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 3 through 8.

Growing Conditions and General Care
Place Forget-Me-Not in a south or east-facing window, where they receive full or partial sunlight.
Water the soil deeply when its top 3 inches (7.5 cm) feels dry to your touch, watering until the water drips through the bottom of the pots. Don’t allow the plants to stand in water. Reduce watering to about once or twice each month in winter, while the plants are dormant. Resume normal watering in spring.

Remove the plants’ spent, or old, flowers, at their stems, pinching them off with your fingernails. Throw away the removed flowers. Removing spent flowers encourages new blooms to form.
Fertilize the Forget-Me-Not once each month only if their leaves appear wilted or yellow or the plants grow very slowly during spring or summer. Mix 1 teaspoon of 5-10-10, water-soluble fertilizer with 1 gallon of water, and use the mixture to fertilize the plants in place of one watering session, applying only the amount you normally would use to water the plants. Don’t fertilize during winter while the plants are dormant.
Trim off all dead foliage and dead stems throughout the growing season as well as during winter after the plants die back. Use pruning shears or scissors for the task.

Propagation
If starting off Forget-Me-Not and other Myosotis plants indoors then start about 2 months in advance. The seeds of Forget-Me-Not should be sown in vermiculite. It will take from one to four weeks to germinate at 64 to 68 degrees Fahrenheit (18 to 20 degrees Celsius) in the dark. It is necessary to water the Forget-Me-Nots from below to stop them rotting. Once seedlings are ready transplant into the garden and grow about 6 to 8 inches (15 to 20 cm) apart.

Pests and Diseases
Insects and disease are not too common. If problems arise, treat early with insecticides or fungicides as appropriate.

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2017年09月27日

Aster is a large genus of 250 species of annuals, biennials, perennials, and subshrubs from many different kinds of habitats, mainly in North America. The flowers resemble small daisies, with yellow disk florets, and white, pink, blue, or purple ray florets. The leaves are generally alternate, simple, and lance-shaped. There is an Aster for most any type of garden, including borders, rock gardens, waterside plantings, dry areas, and wildflower gardens.

Care for your Asters with some basic rules of thumb, and be rewarded with spectacular blossoms in a variety of colors. Planting these wonderful stars (aster is Greek for star) will uplift and brighten your fall garden. Ranging from 8 inches to almost 8 feet (20 cm to almost 2.4 m), these flowers make good border plants, but be careful of mildew diseases that attack them.

Growing Conditions and General Care
Divide mature plants in spring, just as the new shoots begin to grow. This should be done every few years to avoid crowding of plants.
As with many other flowering plants, dead head (cut back spent flowers) to make room for newer blossoms. This will extend the health and flowering of your plants. Be sure to dead head early on in the blooming season. Blooming will be reduced if done too late. This will also restrain unwanted reseeding which will cause plant overcrowding.
Remember, Asters are prone to mildew so be careful to plant them in areas with good circulation and good sun exposure.
As with other flowering plants, do not allow water to saturate leaves. Be sure to water at the plant’s roots to prevent mildew and mold. Drip irrigation and utilization of a soaker hose work very well in watering these plants.

Propagating
Asters can be grown indoors or may be sown into the garden directly (providing danger of frost is well past). Plant them in early spring, preparing gardens with a tiller to loosen soil. Sow the seeds approximately 1 foot (30 cm) deep into a mixture of compost and garden soil. Germination usually occurs after approximately 1 month.
Plant in well-drained, moist soil in either partial shade or morning sun. Some varieties can be planted in full sun, but this varies, so be sure to check planting instructions. Compost, peat moss or mulch will retain moisture, control weeds and ensure plants have sufficient nutrients.
Your hole for transplanting asters should be twice as wide and deep as the plant’s container. Plant the crown of the aster even with the ground level. Plant and thin plants to at least 18 inches (45 cm) apart to avoid overcrowding.

Strategies
In addition to accenting rock gardens, grow your Asters in succession, so that have an ongoing blooming season. Planting Asters will also deter some insects in your garden. Plant them throughout your garden to limit pesticide use.
Asters attract butterflies, which will enhance the beauty of your garden.

Unlike marigolds and similar plants, Aster seedlings are unlike the parent plant and may not be desirable to allow to reproduce. Remove the flower stems before they set seed to prevent this cycle from occurring.
Water Asters as directed, but remember that they are considered a “drought tolerant” plant and do not like standing water.

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Scientific Name
Euphorbia myrsinites L.

Common Names
Myrtle Spurge, Myrtle Euphorbia, Donkey Tail Spruge, Donkey Tail, Blue Spurge, Broad-Leaved Glaucous Spurge, Creeping Spruge
Synonyms
Euphorbia myrsinites subsp. myrsinites, Endoisila myrsinites, Euphorbion myrsinitum, Galarhoeus myrsinites, Murtekias myrsinites, Tithymalus myrsinites
Scientific Classification
Family: Euphorbiaceae
Subfamily: Euphorbioideae
Tribe: Euphorbieae
Subtribe: Euphorbiinae
Genus: Euphorbia

Description
Euphorbia myrsinites is an attractive low growing succulent evergreen perennial. It has sprawling stems growing up to 16 inches (40 cm) long. The leaves are spirally arranged, fleshy, pale glaucous bluish-green, up to 1 inch (2.5 cm) long. The flowers and their subtending bracts are initially greenish-yellow but deepen to a red hue by summer.

How to Grow and Care
Euphorbias are very easy to care for. They require a little pampering to become established, but once they are, they are self-sufficient. In fact, more die from too much care and watering than from neglect. Euphorbias need well-draining soil and lots of sunlight. They are not particular about soil pH, but they cannot tolerant wet soil. Unlike most succulents, Euphorbia does not handle long periods of drought well. It may need weekly watering during the summer. Water whenever the soil is dry several inches below the surface. Water deeply, but don’t let them sit in wet soil, which can cause root rot. Add some organic matter or fertilizer to the planting hole. If you are growing them in containers or your soil is poor, feed with a half-strength fertilizer monthly.
Origin
Native to southeastern Europe and Asia Minor, from Italy east through the Balkans to the Crimea and Turkey.

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Scientific Name
Myosotis azorica H.C.Watson

Common Names
Azorean Forget-me-not, Azorean Mouse Ear
Synonyms
Myosotis maritima
Scientific Classification
Family: Boraginaceae
Subfamily: Boraginoideae
Genus: Myosotis

Flower
Color: Deep blue
Bloom Time: Spring to early summer
Description
Myosotis azorica is a perennial herb with decumbent stems up to 12 inches (30 cm) tall. Leaves are lanceolate, clasping the stem, with numerous soft flexible hairs. Flowers are borne on spirally curving stems resembling a scorpion’s tail or a half-unfurled fiddlehead fern leaf. Flowers are deep blue-purple with a yellow center.
Hardiness
USDA hardiness zone 3a to 8b: from −40 °F (−40 °C) to 20 °F (−6.7 °C).

How to Grow and Care
Place Forget-Me-Not in a south or east-facing window, where they receive full or partial sunlight.
Water the soil deeply when its top 3 inches (7.5 cm) feels dry to your touch, watering until the water drips through the bottom of the pots. Don’t allow the plants to stand in water. Reduce watering to about once or twice each month in winter, while the plants are dormant. Resume normal watering in spring.
Remove the plants’ spent, or old, flowers, at their stems, pinching them off with your fingernails. Throw away the removed flowers. Removing spent flowers encourages new blooms to form.
Fertilize the Forget-Me-Not once each month only if their leaves appear wilted or yellow or the plants grow very slowly during spring or summer. Mix 1 teaspoon of 5-10-10, water-soluble fertilizer with 1 gallon of water, and use the mixture to fertilize the plants in place of one watering session, applying only the amount you normally would use to water the plants. Don’t fertilize during winter while the plants are dormant.
Origin
It is endemic to the Azores Islands in the North Atlantic Ocean.

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Scientific Name
Meconopsis horridula Hook. f. & Thomson

Common Names
Prickly Blue Poppy, Tibetan Poppy
Scientific Classification
Family: Papaveraceae
Subfamily: Papaveroideae
Tribe: Papavereae
Genus: Meconopsis

Flower
Color: Blue or reddish blue
Bloom Time: Late spring to early summer
Description
Meconopsis horridula is a flowering plant with basal leaves, up to 10 inches (25 cm) long, arranged in a rosette. The stem and pedicels have straw-colored spines on their surface. The leaves are elliptical or narrow-oblong shaped, tapering into the petiole. The leaf margin is entire or slightly lobed or toothed. The surface of the leaf is covered with yellowish or purplish spines that grow from purple wart-like structures. In some cases they are covered with bristles. The upper leaves are smaller and bract-like. The open-faced flowers are usually in shades of blue or reddish blue, but rarely white. The flowers are up to 3 inches (7.5 cm) in size. The stalk is up to 9 inches (22.5 cm) long. The stalk that bears the flower is bent, so the flower is not held upright and is droopy.

How to Grow and Care
Full sunlight (cool areas only); full or partial shade. Acidic soil. Add grit to heavy soils. Nutrient-rich soil, add manure, leaf matter or compost if necessary. Moist soil. Supply mulch of manure of bark chippings when planting to help maintain moisture; do not cover the crowns. Regular watering during dry periods in summer to keep the soil moist. No need to water in the winter as the plant prefers a dry soil whilst resting. Cut back to the ground in autumn. Replace regularly as Meconopsis do not live for long time.
When growing Meconopsis plants in the garden it is very important to keep the soil moist in the summer. Once the growing period has finished, cut back Meconopsis plant to ground level (autumn). If you require more plants then they can be propagated by division at the start of spring.
The seeds of the Meconopsis should be sown on the surface; this can wither be done just before the last frost of spring or towards the end of autumn. Blue Poppies prefer to grow in a shady or partially shady part of the gardens but can tolerate sunny areas in milder climates. They like a rich acidic soil, ideally the soil should be kept moist in the summer, but allowed to dry in the winter.
Origin
Native to China (Tibet).

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