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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月31日
Flat stems of feathery, blue-green foliage and ornamental bark combine to make Leyland cypress an appealing choice for medium to large landscapes. Leyland cypress trees grow three feet or more per year, making it an excellent choice for a quick specimen or lawn tree, or a privacy hedge. Information about Leyland cypress will help with growing healthy trees.
Information About Leyland Cypress
Leland cypress (x Cupressocyparis leylandii) is a rare, but successful, hybrid between two different genera: Cupressus and Chamaecyparis. Leyland cypress has a short lifespan for an evergreen tree, surviving for 10 to 20 years. This tall evergreen conifer is grown commercially in the Southeast as a Christmas tree. The tree grows to a height of 50 to 70 feet, and although the spread is only 12 to 15 feet, it may overwhelm small, residential properties. Therefore, larger areas are most suitable for growing a Leyland cypress tree. The tree is also useful in coastal landscapes where it tolerates salt spray.
How to Grow Leyland Cypress Trees
Leyland cypress trees need a location in full sun or partial shade and a rich, well-drained soil. Avoid windy sites where the tree may be blown over. Plant the tree so that the soil line on the tree is even with the surrounding soil in a hole about twice as wide as the root ball. Backfill the hole with the soil that you removed from it without amendments. Press down with your foot as you fill the hole to remove any air pockets that may be present.
Leyland Cypress Care
Leyland cypress trees need very little care. Water them deeply during prolonged drought, but avoid overwatering, which can lead to root rot. The tree doesn’t need regular fertilization. Watch for bagworms and, if possible, remove the bags before the larvae they contain have a chance to emerge.
Growing a Leyland Cypress Pruned Hedge
Its narrow, columnar growth pattern makes Leyland cypress ideal for use as a hedge to screen out unsightly views or protect your privacy. To form a pruned hedge, set out the trees with 3 feet of space between them. When they reach a height about a foot beyond the desired height of the hedge, top them to about 6 inches below that height. Prune the shrubs every year in midsummer to maintain the height and shape the hedge. Pruning during damp weather, however, can lead to disease.
Information About Leyland Cypress
Leland cypress (x Cupressocyparis leylandii) is a rare, but successful, hybrid between two different genera: Cupressus and Chamaecyparis. Leyland cypress has a short lifespan for an evergreen tree, surviving for 10 to 20 years. This tall evergreen conifer is grown commercially in the Southeast as a Christmas tree. The tree grows to a height of 50 to 70 feet, and although the spread is only 12 to 15 feet, it may overwhelm small, residential properties. Therefore, larger areas are most suitable for growing a Leyland cypress tree. The tree is also useful in coastal landscapes where it tolerates salt spray.
How to Grow Leyland Cypress Trees
Leyland cypress trees need a location in full sun or partial shade and a rich, well-drained soil. Avoid windy sites where the tree may be blown over. Plant the tree so that the soil line on the tree is even with the surrounding soil in a hole about twice as wide as the root ball. Backfill the hole with the soil that you removed from it without amendments. Press down with your foot as you fill the hole to remove any air pockets that may be present.
Leyland Cypress Care
Leyland cypress trees need very little care. Water them deeply during prolonged drought, but avoid overwatering, which can lead to root rot. The tree doesn’t need regular fertilization. Watch for bagworms and, if possible, remove the bags before the larvae they contain have a chance to emerge.
Growing a Leyland Cypress Pruned Hedge
Its narrow, columnar growth pattern makes Leyland cypress ideal for use as a hedge to screen out unsightly views or protect your privacy. To form a pruned hedge, set out the trees with 3 feet of space between them. When they reach a height about a foot beyond the desired height of the hedge, top them to about 6 inches below that height. Prune the shrubs every year in midsummer to maintain the height and shape the hedge. Pruning during damp weather, however, can lead to disease.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月30日
The names Colorado spruce, blue spruce and Colorado blue spruce tree all refer to the same magnificent tree—Pica pungens. Large specimens are imposing in the landscape because of their strong, architectural shape in the form of a pyramid and stiff, horizontal branches that form a dense canopy. The species grows up to 60 feet tall and looks best in open, arid landscapes, while smaller cultivars that grow 5 to 15 feet tall are right at home in lush gardens. Continue reading for information on how to grow a Colorado blue spruce.
Colorado Spruce Info
Colorado blue spruce is a Native American tree that originated on stream banks and crags of the western United States. This sturdy tree is grown in farmlands, pastures and large landscapes as a windbreak and doubles as a nesting site for birds. Dwarf species are attractive in home landscapes where they look great in shrub borders, as backdrops for borders and as specimen trees. Short, sharp needles that are square in shape and very stiff and sharp attach to the tree singly rather than in bunches, like pine needles. The tree produces 2- to 4-inch brown cones that fall to the ground in autumn. They are distinguished from other spruce trees by the bluish color of the needles, which can be quite striking on a sunny day.
Colorado Blue Spruce Planting Guide
Colorado blue spruce grows best in a sunny location with moist, well-drained, fertile soil. It tolerates dry wind and can adapt to dry soil. The tree is hardy in USDA plant hardiness zones 3 through 7. Plant Colorado blue spruce in a hole that is as deep as the root ball and two or three times as wide. When you set the tree in the hole, the top of the root ball should be even with the surrounding soil. You can check this by placing a yardstick or flat tool handle across the hole. After adjusting the depth, firm the bottom of the hole with your foot.
It’s best not to amend the soil at planting time, but if it is poor in organic matter, you can mix a little compost with the dirt that you removed from the hole before backfilling. Compost should make up no more than 15 percent of the fill dirt. Fill the hole half full with the fill dirt and then flood the hole with water. This removes air pockets and settles the soil. After the water has drained through, finish filling the hole and water thoroughly. If the soil settles, top it off with more dirt. Do not mound soil around the trunk.
Caring for Colorado Spruce
Caring for Colorado spruce is simple once the tree is established. Water it regularly to keep the soil moist through the first season and only during dry spells thereafter. The tree benefits from a 2-inch layer of organic mulch that extends just beyond the tips of the branches. Pull the mulch back a few inches from the base of the tree to prevent rot. Colorado blue spruce is susceptible to cankers and white pine weevils. The weevils cause the leaders to die back. Cut off dying leaders before the damage reaches the first ring of branches and choose another branch to train as a leader. Stake the new leader into an upright position.
Some insecticides remove the wax coating on the needles. Since the wax is what gives the tree its blue color, you want to avoid this if at all possible. Test insecticides on a small, inconspicuous part of the tree before spraying the entire tree.
Colorado Spruce Info
Colorado blue spruce is a Native American tree that originated on stream banks and crags of the western United States. This sturdy tree is grown in farmlands, pastures and large landscapes as a windbreak and doubles as a nesting site for birds. Dwarf species are attractive in home landscapes where they look great in shrub borders, as backdrops for borders and as specimen trees. Short, sharp needles that are square in shape and very stiff and sharp attach to the tree singly rather than in bunches, like pine needles. The tree produces 2- to 4-inch brown cones that fall to the ground in autumn. They are distinguished from other spruce trees by the bluish color of the needles, which can be quite striking on a sunny day.
Colorado Blue Spruce Planting Guide
Colorado blue spruce grows best in a sunny location with moist, well-drained, fertile soil. It tolerates dry wind and can adapt to dry soil. The tree is hardy in USDA plant hardiness zones 3 through 7. Plant Colorado blue spruce in a hole that is as deep as the root ball and two or three times as wide. When you set the tree in the hole, the top of the root ball should be even with the surrounding soil. You can check this by placing a yardstick or flat tool handle across the hole. After adjusting the depth, firm the bottom of the hole with your foot.
It’s best not to amend the soil at planting time, but if it is poor in organic matter, you can mix a little compost with the dirt that you removed from the hole before backfilling. Compost should make up no more than 15 percent of the fill dirt. Fill the hole half full with the fill dirt and then flood the hole with water. This removes air pockets and settles the soil. After the water has drained through, finish filling the hole and water thoroughly. If the soil settles, top it off with more dirt. Do not mound soil around the trunk.
Caring for Colorado Spruce
Caring for Colorado spruce is simple once the tree is established. Water it regularly to keep the soil moist through the first season and only during dry spells thereafter. The tree benefits from a 2-inch layer of organic mulch that extends just beyond the tips of the branches. Pull the mulch back a few inches from the base of the tree to prevent rot. Colorado blue spruce is susceptible to cankers and white pine weevils. The weevils cause the leaders to die back. Cut off dying leaders before the damage reaches the first ring of branches and choose another branch to train as a leader. Stake the new leader into an upright position.
Some insecticides remove the wax coating on the needles. Since the wax is what gives the tree its blue color, you want to avoid this if at all possible. Test insecticides on a small, inconspicuous part of the tree before spraying the entire tree.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月30日
Are you seeing dead needles appear on the outer edges of your cedars? This could be symptomatic of winter damage to cedars. Winter cold and ice can result in winter damage to trees and shrubs, including Blue Atlas cedar, deodar cedar and Lebanon cedar. But you may not see the evidence of freeze damage until after temperatures warm and growth starts up again. Read on for information about cedar trees and winter damage.
Cedar Trees and Winter Damage
Cedars are evergreen conifers with needle-like leaves that stay on the tree all winter long. The trees go through “hardening off” in the autumn to prepare them for winter’s worst. The trees close down growth and slow transpiration and consumption of nutrients. You need to think about cedar trees and winter damage after you experience a few warm days in winter. Winter damage to cedars occurs when cedars are warmed all day by winter sun. Cedar trees damaged in winter are those that receive enough sunshine to make the needle cells thaw.
Cedar Trees Damaged in Winter
Winter damage to trees and shrubs happens the same day the foliage thaws. The temperature drops at night and the needle cells freeze again. They burst as they refreeze and, in time, die off. This results in the winter damage to cedars you see in spring, like dead foliage. Read on for information about the steps you should take to begin repairing winter damage on cedar.
Repairing Winter Damage on Cedar Trees
You won’t be able to tell right away if the weather has caused winter damage to trees and shrubs, since all cedars lose some needles in fall. Don’t take any action to start repairing winter damage on cedar trees until you can inspect the new spring growth. Instead of pruning in spring, fertilize the trees with landscape tree food, then apply liquid feeder to the foliage daily during April and May. At some point in June, evaluate any winter damage that may be present. You can do this by scratching the stems of the cedars to see if the tissue beneath is green. Prune back any branches where the tissue is brown. Cut back each branch to healthy stems with green tissue.
Once you have removed winter damage in trees and shrubs, prune the cedars to shape them. Cedars usually grow in an uneven pyramid shape and, as you cut, you should follow that shape. Leave the low branches long, then shorten the branch length as you move toward the top of the tree.
Cedar Trees and Winter Damage
Cedars are evergreen conifers with needle-like leaves that stay on the tree all winter long. The trees go through “hardening off” in the autumn to prepare them for winter’s worst. The trees close down growth and slow transpiration and consumption of nutrients. You need to think about cedar trees and winter damage after you experience a few warm days in winter. Winter damage to cedars occurs when cedars are warmed all day by winter sun. Cedar trees damaged in winter are those that receive enough sunshine to make the needle cells thaw.
Cedar Trees Damaged in Winter
Winter damage to trees and shrubs happens the same day the foliage thaws. The temperature drops at night and the needle cells freeze again. They burst as they refreeze and, in time, die off. This results in the winter damage to cedars you see in spring, like dead foliage. Read on for information about the steps you should take to begin repairing winter damage on cedar.
Repairing Winter Damage on Cedar Trees
You won’t be able to tell right away if the weather has caused winter damage to trees and shrubs, since all cedars lose some needles in fall. Don’t take any action to start repairing winter damage on cedar trees until you can inspect the new spring growth. Instead of pruning in spring, fertilize the trees with landscape tree food, then apply liquid feeder to the foliage daily during April and May. At some point in June, evaluate any winter damage that may be present. You can do this by scratching the stems of the cedars to see if the tissue beneath is green. Prune back any branches where the tissue is brown. Cut back each branch to healthy stems with green tissue.
Once you have removed winter damage in trees and shrubs, prune the cedars to shape them. Cedars usually grow in an uneven pyramid shape and, as you cut, you should follow that shape. Leave the low branches long, then shorten the branch length as you move toward the top of the tree.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月30日
The Atlas cedar (Cedrus atlantica) is a true cedar that takes its name from the Atlas Mountains of Northern Africa, its native range. Blue Atlas (Cedrus atlantica ‘Glauca’) is among the most popular cedar cultivars in this country, with its beautiful powdery blue needles. The weeping version, ‘Glauca Pendula,’ can be trained to grow like a vast umbrella of tree limbs. Read on for more information about Blue Atlas cedar trees and care.
Blue Atlas Cedar Care
The Blue Atlas cedar is a stately and majestic evergreen with a strong, vertical trunk and open, almost horizontal limbs. With its stiff, blue-green needles, it makes an exceptional specimen tree for big backyards.
Blue Atlas cedar care starts with selecting an appropriate planting location. If you decide to plant a Blue Atlas cedar, give it plenty of room to spread out. The trees don’t thrive in restricted space. They are also most attractive if they have sufficient room for their branches to fully extend and if you don’t remove their lower branches. Plant these cedars in the sun or in partial shade. They thrive in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 6 through 8. In California or Florida, they can also be planted in zone 9. The trees grow fast at first and then slower as they age. Select a growing site sufficiently large for the tree to get to 60 feet tall and 40 feet wide.
Caring for Weeping Blue Atlas Cedars
Nurseries create weeping Blue Atlas cedar trees by grafting the ‘Glauca Pendula’ cultivar onto the Cedrus atlantica species rootstock. While weeping Blue Atlas cedars have the same powdery blue-green needles as upright Blue Atlas, the branches on the weeping cultivars droop unless you tie them up on stakes. Planting a weeping Blue Atlas cedar, with its drooping, twisted branches, gives you an unusual and spectacular specimen tree. This cultivar is likely to grow about 10 feet high and twice as wide, depending on how you decide to train it.
Consider planting weeping Blue Atlas cedars in a rock garden. Rather than staking the branches to create a shape, you can allow them to mound and spread. If you take care when planting, caring for a weeping Blue Atlas cedar should not be too difficult. The trees only require abundant irrigation the first year, and are drought tolerant when mature. Think through how you want to train the tree before you plant it. You’ll have to stake and train weeping Blue Atlas cedar trees from the time you plant them to create the form you have selected.
For best results, try planting in full sun in well-draining, loamy soil. Feed weeping blue Atlas cedars in early spring with a balanced fertilizer.
Blue Atlas Cedar Care
The Blue Atlas cedar is a stately and majestic evergreen with a strong, vertical trunk and open, almost horizontal limbs. With its stiff, blue-green needles, it makes an exceptional specimen tree for big backyards.
Blue Atlas cedar care starts with selecting an appropriate planting location. If you decide to plant a Blue Atlas cedar, give it plenty of room to spread out. The trees don’t thrive in restricted space. They are also most attractive if they have sufficient room for their branches to fully extend and if you don’t remove their lower branches. Plant these cedars in the sun or in partial shade. They thrive in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 6 through 8. In California or Florida, they can also be planted in zone 9. The trees grow fast at first and then slower as they age. Select a growing site sufficiently large for the tree to get to 60 feet tall and 40 feet wide.
Caring for Weeping Blue Atlas Cedars
Nurseries create weeping Blue Atlas cedar trees by grafting the ‘Glauca Pendula’ cultivar onto the Cedrus atlantica species rootstock. While weeping Blue Atlas cedars have the same powdery blue-green needles as upright Blue Atlas, the branches on the weeping cultivars droop unless you tie them up on stakes. Planting a weeping Blue Atlas cedar, with its drooping, twisted branches, gives you an unusual and spectacular specimen tree. This cultivar is likely to grow about 10 feet high and twice as wide, depending on how you decide to train it.
Consider planting weeping Blue Atlas cedars in a rock garden. Rather than staking the branches to create a shape, you can allow them to mound and spread. If you take care when planting, caring for a weeping Blue Atlas cedar should not be too difficult. The trees only require abundant irrigation the first year, and are drought tolerant when mature. Think through how you want to train the tree before you plant it. You’ll have to stake and train weeping Blue Atlas cedar trees from the time you plant them to create the form you have selected.
For best results, try planting in full sun in well-draining, loamy soil. Feed weeping blue Atlas cedars in early spring with a balanced fertilizer.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月30日
Ovoid to nearly heart shaped, covered in knobby gray/blue/green hues that look almost like scales on the outside and inside, sections of glistening, creamy-white flesh with a shockingly pleasant aroma. What are we talking about? Sugar apples. What exactly is sugar apple fruit and can you grow sugar apples in the garden? Read on to find out about growing sugar apple trees, sugar apple uses and other information.
What is Sugar Apple Fruit?
Sugar apples (Annona squamosa) are the fruit of one of the most commonly grown Annona trees. Depending upon where you find them, they go by a plethora of names, amongst them include sweetsop, custard apple and the apropos scaly custard apple.
The sugar apple tree varies in height from 10-20 feet with an open habit of irregular, zigzagging twigs. Foliage is alternate, dull green on top and pale green on the underside. Crushed leaves have an aromatic scent, as do the fragrant flowers which may be single or in clusters of 2-4. They are yellow-green with a pale yellow interior borne off of long drooping stalks. Fruit of sugar apple trees is as about 2 ½ to 4 inches long. Each fruit segment typically contains a ½-inch long black to dark brown seed, of which there may be up to 40 per sugar apple. Most sugar apples have green skins, but a dark red variety is attaining some popularity. Fruit ripens 3-4 months after flowering in the spring.
Sugar Apple Information
No one is exactly sure where sugar apples hail from, but they are commonly cultivated in tropical South America, southern Mexico, the West Indies, Bahamas and Bermuda. Cultivation is most extensive in India and is wildly popular in the interior of Brazil. It can be found growing wild in Jamaica, Puerto Rico, Barbados and in the drier regions of North Queensland, Australia. It’s likely that Spanish explorers brought seeds from the New World to the Philippines, while the Portuguese are thought to have brought the seeds to southern India prior to 1590. In Florida, a “seedless” variety, ‘Seedless Cuban,’ was introduced for cultivation in 1955. It does have vestigial seeds and has a less developed flavor than other cultivars, grown primarily as a novelty.
Sugar Apple Uses
The fruit of the sugar apple tree is eaten out of hand, separating the fleshy segments from the outer peel and spitting the seeds out. In some countries, the pulp is pressed to eliminate the seeds and then added to ice cream or combined with milk for a refreshing beverage. Sugar apples are never used cooked. The seeds of the sugar apple are poisonous, as are the leaves and bark. In fact, powdered seeds or dried fruit has been used as a fish poison and insecticide in India. A seed paste has also been used pasted on the scalp to rid people of lice. The oil derived from the seeds has also been used as a pesticide. Conversely, the oil from sugar apple’s leaves has a history of use in perfumes. In India, the crushed leaves are snorted to treat hysteria and fainting spells and topically applied to wounds. A leaf decoction is used throughout tropical America to treat a multitude of symptoms, as too is the fruit.
Can You Grow Sugar Apple Trees?
Sugar apples need a tropical to near tropical climate (73-94 degrees F. or 22-34 C.) and are unsuited to most areas of the United States with the exception of some areas of Florida, although they are cold tolerant to 27 degrees F. (-2 C.). They thrive in dry areas except during pollination where high atmospheric humidity seems to be an important factor. So can you grow a sugar apple tree? If you are within that climactic range, then yes. Also, sugar apple trees do well in containers in greenhouses. The trees do well in a variety of soils, provided they have good drainage. When growing sugar apple trees, propagation is generally from seeds that may take 30 days or longer to germinate. To hasten germination, scarify the seeds or soak them for 3 days prior to planting.
If you live in a tropical zone and wish to plant your sugar apples in the soil, plant them in full sun and 15-20 feet away from other trees or buildings. Feed young trees every 4-6 weeks during the growing season with a complete fertilizer. Apply a 2- to 4-inch layer of mulch around the tree to within 6 inches of the trunk to retain moisture and regulate soil temperature.
What is Sugar Apple Fruit?
Sugar apples (Annona squamosa) are the fruit of one of the most commonly grown Annona trees. Depending upon where you find them, they go by a plethora of names, amongst them include sweetsop, custard apple and the apropos scaly custard apple.
The sugar apple tree varies in height from 10-20 feet with an open habit of irregular, zigzagging twigs. Foliage is alternate, dull green on top and pale green on the underside. Crushed leaves have an aromatic scent, as do the fragrant flowers which may be single or in clusters of 2-4. They are yellow-green with a pale yellow interior borne off of long drooping stalks. Fruit of sugar apple trees is as about 2 ½ to 4 inches long. Each fruit segment typically contains a ½-inch long black to dark brown seed, of which there may be up to 40 per sugar apple. Most sugar apples have green skins, but a dark red variety is attaining some popularity. Fruit ripens 3-4 months after flowering in the spring.
Sugar Apple Information
No one is exactly sure where sugar apples hail from, but they are commonly cultivated in tropical South America, southern Mexico, the West Indies, Bahamas and Bermuda. Cultivation is most extensive in India and is wildly popular in the interior of Brazil. It can be found growing wild in Jamaica, Puerto Rico, Barbados and in the drier regions of North Queensland, Australia. It’s likely that Spanish explorers brought seeds from the New World to the Philippines, while the Portuguese are thought to have brought the seeds to southern India prior to 1590. In Florida, a “seedless” variety, ‘Seedless Cuban,’ was introduced for cultivation in 1955. It does have vestigial seeds and has a less developed flavor than other cultivars, grown primarily as a novelty.
Sugar Apple Uses
The fruit of the sugar apple tree is eaten out of hand, separating the fleshy segments from the outer peel and spitting the seeds out. In some countries, the pulp is pressed to eliminate the seeds and then added to ice cream or combined with milk for a refreshing beverage. Sugar apples are never used cooked. The seeds of the sugar apple are poisonous, as are the leaves and bark. In fact, powdered seeds or dried fruit has been used as a fish poison and insecticide in India. A seed paste has also been used pasted on the scalp to rid people of lice. The oil derived from the seeds has also been used as a pesticide. Conversely, the oil from sugar apple’s leaves has a history of use in perfumes. In India, the crushed leaves are snorted to treat hysteria and fainting spells and topically applied to wounds. A leaf decoction is used throughout tropical America to treat a multitude of symptoms, as too is the fruit.
Can You Grow Sugar Apple Trees?
Sugar apples need a tropical to near tropical climate (73-94 degrees F. or 22-34 C.) and are unsuited to most areas of the United States with the exception of some areas of Florida, although they are cold tolerant to 27 degrees F. (-2 C.). They thrive in dry areas except during pollination where high atmospheric humidity seems to be an important factor. So can you grow a sugar apple tree? If you are within that climactic range, then yes. Also, sugar apple trees do well in containers in greenhouses. The trees do well in a variety of soils, provided they have good drainage. When growing sugar apple trees, propagation is generally from seeds that may take 30 days or longer to germinate. To hasten germination, scarify the seeds or soak them for 3 days prior to planting.
If you live in a tropical zone and wish to plant your sugar apples in the soil, plant them in full sun and 15-20 feet away from other trees or buildings. Feed young trees every 4-6 weeks during the growing season with a complete fertilizer. Apply a 2- to 4-inch layer of mulch around the tree to within 6 inches of the trunk to retain moisture and regulate soil temperature.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月30日
Mazus ground cover is a very tiny perennial plant, growing only two inches tall. It forms a dense mat of foliage that stays green throughout spring and summer, and well into fall. In the summer, it is dotted with tiny blue flowers. Learn to grow mazus in this article.
Mazus Reptans Information
Mazus (Mazus reptans) spreads quickly by means of creeping stems that take root where they touch the ground. Even though the plants spread aggressively to fill in bare spots, they aren’t considered invasive because they don’t become a problem in wild areas.
Native to Asia, Mazus reptans is a tiny perennial that can make a big impact in the landscape. It’s the perfect, quick-growing groundcover for small areas. Plant it at the rate of six plants per square yard for the fastest coverage. You can also grow it in shaped patches with the aid of barriers to stop the spread. Mazus grows well in rock gardens and in the gaps between the rocks in a rock wall. It tolerates light foot traffic so you can plant it in between stepping stones too.
Mazus Reptans Care
Creeping mazus plants need a location in full sun or partial shade. It tolerates moderate to high moisture levels, but the roots shouldn’t stand in water. It can live in soil with low fertility, but the ideal location has fertile, loamy soil. It is suitable for U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 5 through 7 or 8. To grow mazus where you now have a lawn, first remove the grass. Mazus will not outcompete lawn grass, so you need to make sure you take up all the grass and get as much of the roots as possible. You can do this with a flat shovel that has a fairly sharp edge.
Mazus may not require annual fertilization. This is especially true if the soil is rich. Spring is the best time to fertilize the plants if necessary, however. Apply 1 to 1.5 pounds of 12-12-12 fertilizer per 100 square feet. Rinse the leaves thoroughly after applying fertilizer to prevent leaf burn. Growing Mazus reptans is made easy by the fact that it seldom suffers from disease or insect infestation.
Mazus Reptans Information
Mazus (Mazus reptans) spreads quickly by means of creeping stems that take root where they touch the ground. Even though the plants spread aggressively to fill in bare spots, they aren’t considered invasive because they don’t become a problem in wild areas.
Native to Asia, Mazus reptans is a tiny perennial that can make a big impact in the landscape. It’s the perfect, quick-growing groundcover for small areas. Plant it at the rate of six plants per square yard for the fastest coverage. You can also grow it in shaped patches with the aid of barriers to stop the spread. Mazus grows well in rock gardens and in the gaps between the rocks in a rock wall. It tolerates light foot traffic so you can plant it in between stepping stones too.
Mazus Reptans Care
Creeping mazus plants need a location in full sun or partial shade. It tolerates moderate to high moisture levels, but the roots shouldn’t stand in water. It can live in soil with low fertility, but the ideal location has fertile, loamy soil. It is suitable for U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 5 through 7 or 8. To grow mazus where you now have a lawn, first remove the grass. Mazus will not outcompete lawn grass, so you need to make sure you take up all the grass and get as much of the roots as possible. You can do this with a flat shovel that has a fairly sharp edge.
Mazus may not require annual fertilization. This is especially true if the soil is rich. Spring is the best time to fertilize the plants if necessary, however. Apply 1 to 1.5 pounds of 12-12-12 fertilizer per 100 square feet. Rinse the leaves thoroughly after applying fertilizer to prevent leaf burn. Growing Mazus reptans is made easy by the fact that it seldom suffers from disease or insect infestation.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月29日
What is Lithodora? Botanically known as Lithodora diffusa, this plant is a hardy ground cover that produces masses of tiny, intensely blue, star-shaped flowers from late spring throughout most of summer. What to know more about growing Lithodora ground cover? Read on to find out.
Lithodora Plant Information
Lithodora planted in gardens reaches heights of only 6 to 10 inches (15-25 cm.), but a single plant can eventually spread 24 to 36 inches (61-91 cm.). You can easily grow Lithodora in gardens in USDA plant hardiness zones 6 through 10. In the more southern ranges, the dense covering of narrow, dark-green leaves remain green year round.
Lithodora ground cover is a great choice for rock gardens. It also works well in window boxes or containers. Lithodora is relatively easy to find in garden centers. Otherwise, plant Lithodora seeds directly in the garden, or start them indoors a few weeks ahead of time. You can also propagate cuttings from established plants in mid- to late summer.
Growing Lithodora Ground Cover
Acidic, well-drained soil is best for growing Lithodora in gardens. Sandy soil is fine, but the plant won’t tolerate heavy clay soil. Although Lithodora thrives in full sunlight, partial shade isn’t a problem. Afternoon shade is best in hot climates. As for the care of Lithodora, water the plant regularly and don’t allow the soil to become bone dry. However, beware of overwatering and avoid soggy, waterlogged soil. Apply mulch in autumn if you live in a cooler region. Prune Lithodora lightly if it looks straggly, or if the leaves are damaged by winter cold.
Lithodora generally requires no fertilizer unless the leaves turn pale greenish-yellow. If this occurs, provide a fertilizer for rhododendron, azalea or other acid-loving plants in late winter or very early spring. If you notice aphids, treat the plant with insecticidal soap spray. Otherwise, pests are usually not a problem.
Lithodora Plant Information
Lithodora planted in gardens reaches heights of only 6 to 10 inches (15-25 cm.), but a single plant can eventually spread 24 to 36 inches (61-91 cm.). You can easily grow Lithodora in gardens in USDA plant hardiness zones 6 through 10. In the more southern ranges, the dense covering of narrow, dark-green leaves remain green year round.
Lithodora ground cover is a great choice for rock gardens. It also works well in window boxes or containers. Lithodora is relatively easy to find in garden centers. Otherwise, plant Lithodora seeds directly in the garden, or start them indoors a few weeks ahead of time. You can also propagate cuttings from established plants in mid- to late summer.
Growing Lithodora Ground Cover
Acidic, well-drained soil is best for growing Lithodora in gardens. Sandy soil is fine, but the plant won’t tolerate heavy clay soil. Although Lithodora thrives in full sunlight, partial shade isn’t a problem. Afternoon shade is best in hot climates. As for the care of Lithodora, water the plant regularly and don’t allow the soil to become bone dry. However, beware of overwatering and avoid soggy, waterlogged soil. Apply mulch in autumn if you live in a cooler region. Prune Lithodora lightly if it looks straggly, or if the leaves are damaged by winter cold.
Lithodora generally requires no fertilizer unless the leaves turn pale greenish-yellow. If this occurs, provide a fertilizer for rhododendron, azalea or other acid-loving plants in late winter or very early spring. If you notice aphids, treat the plant with insecticidal soap spray. Otherwise, pests are usually not a problem.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月28日
Hostas are a perennial favorite among gardeners and with 2,500 varieties to choose from, there’s a hosta for every garden need, from ground cover to giant specimen. They come in leaf colors that range from almost white to a deep, dark, blue-green. They reach their full maturity in four to eight years and given good care and the right growing conditions, can outlive their owners. They’re a great plant to share with neighbors and friends and are prime candidates for transplanting. Hostas are easily moved once you know how. To transplant hosta plants, you’ll need a good shovel, nutritious additives for the soil, and, for larger specimens in particular, a means to move your plant.
When to Transplant Hostas
Before we discuss how to transplant hostas, we need to talk about when to transplant hostas and that involves both time of day and time of year. The best time to transplant hostas is in the spring, but that’s really because it’s easier on you, the gardener, than on the transplant. Hosta plants always need plenty of water and the trauma of transplant, no matter how slight, increases that need. So, the best time to transplant hostas is when Mother Nature is more likely to do the watering for you. It’s also easier to see the new shoots, without risk of leaf damage. If you have a choice in deciding when to transplant hostas, don’t do it in high summer when the ground is hard and the air is dry.
How to Transplant Hostas
Before transplanting hostas, it’s best to prepare their new home. Remember, when you’re thinking about the best time to transplant hostas, you should also be thinking about the best place to transplant hosta plants. They could be living there for the next fifty years. Dig the new hole wider and deeper than the old. Mix plenty of organic enrichments into the refill dirt and add some time release fertilizer, not only to help get your plants off to a good start, but to give it a healthy future as well. Dig all around the hosta clump and, using a garden shovel or fork, pop the clump out of the ground. Rinse as much of the old soil off as you can without damaging the roots and then move your hosta to its new home. Beware, hosta clumps are heavy! If you’re thinking about dividing your plants, now’s the time to do it.
Have a wheelbarrow handy or a tarp that you can use to drag the clump to its new home. Keep the roots damp and shaded, particularly if there will be a delay in when to transplant. Hosta plants depend on their root’s rapid adjustment to their new environment. Set the clump in its new home a little above the depth it was in the old. Fill in around it with the enriched soil, mounding the soil around the clump until it’s covered to a little over the depth it was before. When the soil settles over time, the clump will rest at its original depth. Keep the clump well watered for the next six to eight weeks and watch it carefully in the weeks thereafter for signs of wilt due to lack of moisture. Be aware that the first season after transplanting hosta may yield smaller leaves due to trauma, but the following year will see your plant happy and healthy once again.
When to Transplant Hostas
Before we discuss how to transplant hostas, we need to talk about when to transplant hostas and that involves both time of day and time of year. The best time to transplant hostas is in the spring, but that’s really because it’s easier on you, the gardener, than on the transplant. Hosta plants always need plenty of water and the trauma of transplant, no matter how slight, increases that need. So, the best time to transplant hostas is when Mother Nature is more likely to do the watering for you. It’s also easier to see the new shoots, without risk of leaf damage. If you have a choice in deciding when to transplant hostas, don’t do it in high summer when the ground is hard and the air is dry.
How to Transplant Hostas
Before transplanting hostas, it’s best to prepare their new home. Remember, when you’re thinking about the best time to transplant hostas, you should also be thinking about the best place to transplant hosta plants. They could be living there for the next fifty years. Dig the new hole wider and deeper than the old. Mix plenty of organic enrichments into the refill dirt and add some time release fertilizer, not only to help get your plants off to a good start, but to give it a healthy future as well. Dig all around the hosta clump and, using a garden shovel or fork, pop the clump out of the ground. Rinse as much of the old soil off as you can without damaging the roots and then move your hosta to its new home. Beware, hosta clumps are heavy! If you’re thinking about dividing your plants, now’s the time to do it.
Have a wheelbarrow handy or a tarp that you can use to drag the clump to its new home. Keep the roots damp and shaded, particularly if there will be a delay in when to transplant. Hosta plants depend on their root’s rapid adjustment to their new environment. Set the clump in its new home a little above the depth it was in the old. Fill in around it with the enriched soil, mounding the soil around the clump until it’s covered to a little over the depth it was before. When the soil settles over time, the clump will rest at its original depth. Keep the clump well watered for the next six to eight weeks and watch it carefully in the weeks thereafter for signs of wilt due to lack of moisture. Be aware that the first season after transplanting hosta may yield smaller leaves due to trauma, but the following year will see your plant happy and healthy once again.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月28日
Gardeners go for hosta plants because of their lush greenery and shade tolerance. These popular shade plants offer an entrancing variety of foliage, from smooth leaves to puckered leaves, green or yellow or blue leaves, and leaves the size of a quarter to leaves as big as a plate. But pests can attack foliage and make it ragged. And come winter, the foliage of these perennials wilt and die back. These are the times to sanitize your pruners and get to cutting back hosta plants. Read on for information on how to prune hostas.
Can You Cut Back Hostas?
Can you cut back hostas? Yes, there’s no law against pruning hosta plants, and if you decide to undertake the task, your garden will thank you. For example, you can begin cutting back hosta plants if you don’t want the hosta flowers.
It may seem odd to snip off the flowers from an ornamental, but keep in mind that the glory of hostas is their foliage. Some find that the blossoms distract from the glorious mound of overlapping leaves. These gardeners snip off the flowers stems as they appear. On the other hand, the blossoms are delicate and some smell heavenly. If you decide to let the plants flower, don’t snip them off until they begin to wilt.
When to Cut Back a Hosta
When to cut back a hosta depends on why you are cutting back hosta plants. You may have noticed that pests love hosta as much as you do: snails, slugs, rabbits and even deer dine on it occasionally, leaving the plant unsightly. You’ll want to start pruning hosta plants as soon as you notice any pest damage. Cleaning up dead leaves helps prevent further damage from slugs and snails, and makes the munched plant look better.
How to Prune Hostas in the Winter
In autumn, hosta leaves turn shades of yellow and gold, then fade. This is the beginning of the plant’s dormant season, so you won’t see any more pretty foliage until spring. This is the time to get rid of dead leaves, so you’ll want to learn how to prune hostas in early winter. Dead leaves are pest friendly, so you’ll do well to start pruning hosta plants as the foliage fades. Trim back all the leaves and foliage at ground level, then back it up and dispose of it. That helps things look neat in the garden and keeps bugs from overwintering snugly in the dead leaves.
Can You Cut Back Hostas?
Can you cut back hostas? Yes, there’s no law against pruning hosta plants, and if you decide to undertake the task, your garden will thank you. For example, you can begin cutting back hosta plants if you don’t want the hosta flowers.
It may seem odd to snip off the flowers from an ornamental, but keep in mind that the glory of hostas is their foliage. Some find that the blossoms distract from the glorious mound of overlapping leaves. These gardeners snip off the flowers stems as they appear. On the other hand, the blossoms are delicate and some smell heavenly. If you decide to let the plants flower, don’t snip them off until they begin to wilt.
When to Cut Back a Hosta
When to cut back a hosta depends on why you are cutting back hosta plants. You may have noticed that pests love hosta as much as you do: snails, slugs, rabbits and even deer dine on it occasionally, leaving the plant unsightly. You’ll want to start pruning hosta plants as soon as you notice any pest damage. Cleaning up dead leaves helps prevent further damage from slugs and snails, and makes the munched plant look better.
How to Prune Hostas in the Winter
In autumn, hosta leaves turn shades of yellow and gold, then fade. This is the beginning of the plant’s dormant season, so you won’t see any more pretty foliage until spring. This is the time to get rid of dead leaves, so you’ll want to learn how to prune hostas in early winter. Dead leaves are pest friendly, so you’ll do well to start pruning hosta plants as the foliage fades. Trim back all the leaves and foliage at ground level, then back it up and dispose of it. That helps things look neat in the garden and keeps bugs from overwintering snugly in the dead leaves.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月28日
Grasses add drama to the garden and accentuate and complement other garden specimens. If you are looking for an attractive ornamental grass with a unique color, look no farther than ornamental blue oat grass. Read on to see how to grow this blue hued ornamental oat grass variety.
What is Blue Oat Grass?
Native to Europe, ornamental blue oat grass (Avena sempervirens syn. Helictotrichon sempervirens) is a perennial grass with a dense, clumping habit of foot long stiff, blue green foliage about ½ inch wide and tapering down to a point. Blue oat grass resembles blue fescue although it is larger; the plant grows 18-30 inches tall.
Flowers are borne from the tips of the tapered leaves tipped with golden oat-like seed heads. Beige panicles are produced June through August, eventually achieving a light brown hue by fall. Blue oat grass maintains its attractive light brown fall color through the winter. Blue oat grass is good as an accent plant of in mass plantings. The blue/green foliage with a silvery cast is an excellent eye catcher and accents the green foliage of other plants.
How to Grow Blue Oat Grass
Ornamental blue oat grass is cool season grass. United States Department of Agriculture zones 4-9 are suitable for growing ornamental blue oat grass. The grass likes moist, well-drained soil in full to part shade. It prefers fertile soils but will tolerate less fertile as well as sandy and heavy clay soil. Plants are usually set two feet apart to form a solid mass of foliage. Additional plants can be propagated by division in the spring or fall. Blue oat grass does not spread via rhizomes or stolons like other grasses so it is a less invasive option for the landscape. New seedlings will pop up of their own accord, however, and can be removed or moved to another area of the garden.
Blue Oat Grass Care
Blue oat grass care is minimal, as it is a forgiving and hearty grass. Heavy shade and little air circulation foster foliar disease on blue oat grass but, otherwise, the plant has few problems. It does tend to get rusty looking, especially when it is overly humid and wet, usually if it is in a shaded area. No more than yearly feeding is needed to keep the plants thriving and they should last for years with very little care. Growing blue oat grass can be pruned back in the fall to remove old leaves or at any time they are looking a bit peaked and need some rejuvenation.
Of ornamental oat grass varieties, A. sempervirens is the most common, but another cultivar ‘Sapphire’ or ‘Saphirsprudel’ has an even more pronounced blue hue and is more rust resistant than A. sempervirens.
What is Blue Oat Grass?
Native to Europe, ornamental blue oat grass (Avena sempervirens syn. Helictotrichon sempervirens) is a perennial grass with a dense, clumping habit of foot long stiff, blue green foliage about ½ inch wide and tapering down to a point. Blue oat grass resembles blue fescue although it is larger; the plant grows 18-30 inches tall.
Flowers are borne from the tips of the tapered leaves tipped with golden oat-like seed heads. Beige panicles are produced June through August, eventually achieving a light brown hue by fall. Blue oat grass maintains its attractive light brown fall color through the winter. Blue oat grass is good as an accent plant of in mass plantings. The blue/green foliage with a silvery cast is an excellent eye catcher and accents the green foliage of other plants.
How to Grow Blue Oat Grass
Ornamental blue oat grass is cool season grass. United States Department of Agriculture zones 4-9 are suitable for growing ornamental blue oat grass. The grass likes moist, well-drained soil in full to part shade. It prefers fertile soils but will tolerate less fertile as well as sandy and heavy clay soil. Plants are usually set two feet apart to form a solid mass of foliage. Additional plants can be propagated by division in the spring or fall. Blue oat grass does not spread via rhizomes or stolons like other grasses so it is a less invasive option for the landscape. New seedlings will pop up of their own accord, however, and can be removed or moved to another area of the garden.
Blue Oat Grass Care
Blue oat grass care is minimal, as it is a forgiving and hearty grass. Heavy shade and little air circulation foster foliar disease on blue oat grass but, otherwise, the plant has few problems. It does tend to get rusty looking, especially when it is overly humid and wet, usually if it is in a shaded area. No more than yearly feeding is needed to keep the plants thriving and they should last for years with very little care. Growing blue oat grass can be pruned back in the fall to remove old leaves or at any time they are looking a bit peaked and need some rejuvenation.
Of ornamental oat grass varieties, A. sempervirens is the most common, but another cultivar ‘Sapphire’ or ‘Saphirsprudel’ has an even more pronounced blue hue and is more rust resistant than A. sempervirens.
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