文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月27日
Perennial blue eyed grass wildflower is a member of the Iris family, but it is not a grass at all. It is native to North America and forms clumps of slender long foliage topped in spring with small periwinkle flowers. The plant is a bright addition to any location in the garden. Almost any garden soil is where to plant blue eyed grass and it will attract bees and feed wild birds throughout the years.
What is Blue Eyed Grass?
The gardener looking for a substitute for iris or other bulb flowers should explore the blue-eyed grass plant (Sisyrinchium spp.). So what is blue eyed grass and is it a suitable plant for the garden? This plant is clumping and can get 4 to 16 inches tall and equally wide. Blue eyed grass wildflower grows from hardy rhizomes that send out tall, blade-like foliage, much like grass blades and this is where the “grass” in its name derives.
The nearly foot tall foliage bears wiry stems topped with the brilliant blue flowers but may also be white or violet and have a yellow “eye” in the center. This yellow corolla earns the plant its colorful name. USDA zones 4 to 9 are suitable locations for growing blue eyed grass. Blue eyed grass wildflower is useful in rock gardens, borders, containers and as part of a wildflower meadow. Growing blue eyed grass is an excellent way to introduce native plant life to your garden. This promotes natural landscaping and helps wild animals with food and nesting materials.
Where to Plant Blue Eyed Grass
Knowing where to plant blue eyed grass is important for its overall health. So when growing blue eyed grass, choose a partially sunny location. While the plant can grow in full sun, it performs best in low light situations. It is tolerant of any soil pH as long as it drains well. Blue eyed grass will thrive in moist to average garden soil. The plant is easy to propagate by dividing plantlets away from the parent plant. Break off or cut the rhizomes away from the main plant, including the slender foliage of the young plants that form at the base. Plant them as individual specimens for increased spring beauty. The clump will get large year by year but you can dig it up and cut it into sections for new plants. Divide the plant in late winter every two to three years, and you will have a scattering of the pretty flowers across the landscape. In addition to propagation by division, the flowers will produce seed in spring. Seeds spread easily in gardens with adequate moisture.
Blue Eyed Grass Care
Growing blue eyed grass care isn’t difficult. Allow the leaves to remain on the plant after the blooms fade in summer. This gives the foliage time to gather energy to store in the rhizomes for the following season’s bloom. After they turn brown, cut them back to just above the crown. Mulch around the plants with organic material to provide nutrients and help protect the plants during freezing temperatures. In zones below 4 or where hard freezes last all winter, dig up the plant in fall and pot up in garden soil. Move the plant to a low light location where temperatures are above freezing. When soils are workable, replant in spring and enjoy blue eyed grass wildflowers until summer.
What is Blue Eyed Grass?
The gardener looking for a substitute for iris or other bulb flowers should explore the blue-eyed grass plant (Sisyrinchium spp.). So what is blue eyed grass and is it a suitable plant for the garden? This plant is clumping and can get 4 to 16 inches tall and equally wide. Blue eyed grass wildflower grows from hardy rhizomes that send out tall, blade-like foliage, much like grass blades and this is where the “grass” in its name derives.
The nearly foot tall foliage bears wiry stems topped with the brilliant blue flowers but may also be white or violet and have a yellow “eye” in the center. This yellow corolla earns the plant its colorful name. USDA zones 4 to 9 are suitable locations for growing blue eyed grass. Blue eyed grass wildflower is useful in rock gardens, borders, containers and as part of a wildflower meadow. Growing blue eyed grass is an excellent way to introduce native plant life to your garden. This promotes natural landscaping and helps wild animals with food and nesting materials.
Where to Plant Blue Eyed Grass
Knowing where to plant blue eyed grass is important for its overall health. So when growing blue eyed grass, choose a partially sunny location. While the plant can grow in full sun, it performs best in low light situations. It is tolerant of any soil pH as long as it drains well. Blue eyed grass will thrive in moist to average garden soil. The plant is easy to propagate by dividing plantlets away from the parent plant. Break off or cut the rhizomes away from the main plant, including the slender foliage of the young plants that form at the base. Plant them as individual specimens for increased spring beauty. The clump will get large year by year but you can dig it up and cut it into sections for new plants. Divide the plant in late winter every two to three years, and you will have a scattering of the pretty flowers across the landscape. In addition to propagation by division, the flowers will produce seed in spring. Seeds spread easily in gardens with adequate moisture.
Blue Eyed Grass Care
Growing blue eyed grass care isn’t difficult. Allow the leaves to remain on the plant after the blooms fade in summer. This gives the foliage time to gather energy to store in the rhizomes for the following season’s bloom. After they turn brown, cut them back to just above the crown. Mulch around the plants with organic material to provide nutrients and help protect the plants during freezing temperatures. In zones below 4 or where hard freezes last all winter, dig up the plant in fall and pot up in garden soil. Move the plant to a low light location where temperatures are above freezing. When soils are workable, replant in spring and enjoy blue eyed grass wildflowers until summer.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月27日
Ajuga (Ajuga spp.), also known as carpet bugle or bugleweed, is an adaptable, low growing plant that forms a thick carpet of foliage, often with a grayish-green, bronze or reddish tint. The plant is covered with springtime blooms of blue, purple, violet, white or pink, depending on the variety. Although most varieties are relatively well-behaved, Ajuga reptans is a rambunctious cultivar that spreads by long runners. It tends to escape its boundaries and invades flower beds and lawns if it isn’t carefully contained. Ajuga weed control is tricky, and tackling ajuga plants in lawns is especially challenging. Read on for more information about getting rid of bugleweed.
How to Control Ajuga
Below are the most effective methods for treating bugleweeds that have become invasive. Hand pulling – It’s always best to manage unwanted plants without use of chemicals whenever possible. If you want to remove ajuga in an environmentally friendly manner, the best solution is pulling – and a lot of it. Watering the area the day before will make ajuga easier to pull, as will loosening the soil around the plants with a spade or garden fork. Use a weeding fork to dig deep under the roots for more thorough ajuga weed control. Take your time and remove as many roots as possible because even small pieces that remain in the soil can take root and spread. Keep a careful watch on the area and pull new plants as soon as they appear. It will take time, but if you are persistent, you will eventually gain the upper hand.
Dispose of the plants properly and don’t toss them on your compost pile; they’ll take root and you’ll be back at square one – or worse. Homemade herbicide – Another option for getting rid of bugleweed is to create a homemade, environmentally friendly herbicide by mixing equal parts very hot water and vinegar. Stir in a small amount of salt and a few drops of liquid dish soap. Apply the solution with a spray bottle or a garden sprayer. Black plastic – If the ajuga isn’t in your lawn, you may be able to smother large patches with black plastic. Secure the plastic with bricks or rocks and leave it alone for two weeks so the sun can “bake” the ajuga. If the plants are still alive, leave the plastic in place for an additional two weeks. Chemical herbicides – If all else fails, ajuga weed control may require an herbicide such as Round-up. If the ajuga is in your lawn, read the label carefully and be sure to use a non-selective herbicide that will kill the ajuga without harming your lawn.
How to Control Ajuga
Below are the most effective methods for treating bugleweeds that have become invasive. Hand pulling – It’s always best to manage unwanted plants without use of chemicals whenever possible. If you want to remove ajuga in an environmentally friendly manner, the best solution is pulling – and a lot of it. Watering the area the day before will make ajuga easier to pull, as will loosening the soil around the plants with a spade or garden fork. Use a weeding fork to dig deep under the roots for more thorough ajuga weed control. Take your time and remove as many roots as possible because even small pieces that remain in the soil can take root and spread. Keep a careful watch on the area and pull new plants as soon as they appear. It will take time, but if you are persistent, you will eventually gain the upper hand.
Dispose of the plants properly and don’t toss them on your compost pile; they’ll take root and you’ll be back at square one – or worse. Homemade herbicide – Another option for getting rid of bugleweed is to create a homemade, environmentally friendly herbicide by mixing equal parts very hot water and vinegar. Stir in a small amount of salt and a few drops of liquid dish soap. Apply the solution with a spray bottle or a garden sprayer. Black plastic – If the ajuga isn’t in your lawn, you may be able to smother large patches with black plastic. Secure the plastic with bricks or rocks and leave it alone for two weeks so the sun can “bake” the ajuga. If the plants are still alive, leave the plastic in place for an additional two weeks. Chemical herbicides – If all else fails, ajuga weed control may require an herbicide such as Round-up. If the ajuga is in your lawn, read the label carefully and be sure to use a non-selective herbicide that will kill the ajuga without harming your lawn.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月27日
Ajuga – also known as bugleweed – is a tough, low-growing ground cover. It offers bright, semi-evergreen foliage and showy flower spikes in amazing shades of blue. The vigorous plant grows in a carpet of shiny foliage and massed flowers, swiftly forming dense mats that require little maintenance. Ajuga plant propagation is so easy that the plants easily become invasive, rambling across the lawn and into places in the garden reserved for other plants. Read on for information about propagating ajuga plants.
Propagation of Ajuga Plants
Growing ajuga is easier than getting rid of it, so take its rapid growth into account before you decide on ajuga plant propagation. You’ll first want to prepare a garden space to plant your new ajuga. You’ll succeed best at ajuga plant propagation if you select a sunny area or one that is in light shade for the plant’s new home. Ajuga won’t flower well in full shade. Ajuga plants do best in moist, fertile soil. It’s a good idea to work in humus or other organic material to the soil before planting time.
How to Propagate Bugleweed
You can start propagating ajuga plants from plant seeds or by division.
Seeds
One way to start propagating ajuga plants is by planting seeds. If you decide to do this, sow ajuga plant seeds in containers in fall or spring. Just cover the seeds with a thin layer of compost and keep the soil moist. The seeds germinate in a month or less. Prick out the individual plants and place in larger containers. In summer, move the young plants to your garden beds.
Division
Ajuga spread by underground runners called stolons. These runners root the plant in nearby soil and form clumps. The ajuga clumps will eventually get crowded and begin to lose vigor. This is the time to lift and divide them in order to obtain additional ajuga plants.Propagation of ajuga by division is an operation for early spring or fall. It’s a simple process. All you have to do is dig out the clumps and pull or cut them apart into smaller sections, then replant them in another location. You can also simply cut out big sections of plant mats – like lawn sod – and move them to a new location.
Propagation of Ajuga Plants
Growing ajuga is easier than getting rid of it, so take its rapid growth into account before you decide on ajuga plant propagation. You’ll first want to prepare a garden space to plant your new ajuga. You’ll succeed best at ajuga plant propagation if you select a sunny area or one that is in light shade for the plant’s new home. Ajuga won’t flower well in full shade. Ajuga plants do best in moist, fertile soil. It’s a good idea to work in humus or other organic material to the soil before planting time.
How to Propagate Bugleweed
You can start propagating ajuga plants from plant seeds or by division.
Seeds
One way to start propagating ajuga plants is by planting seeds. If you decide to do this, sow ajuga plant seeds in containers in fall or spring. Just cover the seeds with a thin layer of compost and keep the soil moist. The seeds germinate in a month or less. Prick out the individual plants and place in larger containers. In summer, move the young plants to your garden beds.
Division
Ajuga spread by underground runners called stolons. These runners root the plant in nearby soil and form clumps. The ajuga clumps will eventually get crowded and begin to lose vigor. This is the time to lift and divide them in order to obtain additional ajuga plants.Propagation of ajuga by division is an operation for early spring or fall. It’s a simple process. All you have to do is dig out the clumps and pull or cut them apart into smaller sections, then replant them in another location. You can also simply cut out big sections of plant mats – like lawn sod – and move them to a new location.
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成长记
Katrina
2017年08月26日
I new added a "Senecio Vitalis: Serpents Blue Chalk Fingers" in my "garden"
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月26日
Pickerel rush (Pontederia cordata) is a native North American plant with a wide zone range in USDA plant hardiness zones 3 to 10. The plant may become invasive due to a rhizomous rooting system, but it is an attractive plant that bears blue spiked flowers from early summer well into fall. Pickerel rush care is easy and the tenacious plant is an unusual addition to riparian zones and along home ponds. Few tips are necessary to learn how to grow pickerel rush, but this semi-aquatic plant is worth a try if you plant it in a submerged pot to prevent unwanted spreading.
About Pickerelweed Plants
Pickerelweed plants are rushes that are closely related to grasses. The plants are in the family Pontederia, named after an 18th century botany professor. These plants grow in clumps with thick to flat stems. The foliage is glossy and dark green with a heart-shaped leaf and grows 24 to 30 inches high. Stems on mature plants arch gracefully on water grown plants. The flower spires are a deep to soft blue and rise several inches above the body of the rush. Decorative and useful plants for around the home water feature should include pickerel rush for ponds because of its ease of care and hardiness. When the plant is partially submerged, the floating leaves provide important shade to prevent excess algae growth. They also form a network of foliage in which fish can hide.
How to Grow Pickerel Rush
You can share new starts of the plant with friends easily. Divide the rhizomes in late winter to early spring. Simply dig up the plant or remove it from its pot. Use a clean sharp soil knife or pruners to cut apart the roots, leaving each piece with several healthy leaves and thick rhizomes. Replant the new clumps and they will take off quickly, increasing your pickerel weed inventory. You can also save and dry the seeds from the plant to start inside in flats in late winter. Seeded plants can take several seasons to produce the bright flowers. Caring for pickerelweeds once the seeds have germinated just requires consistent moisture and bright sunlight. Plant outside in spring.
Pickerel Rush Care
Negligence is the word of the day in caring for pickerelweed plants. These unfussy little rushes can tolerate almost anything except full shade and drought. Pickerels should be kept in deep pots where the roots can remain moist. You can also submerge the entire pot and just let the broad leaves float out around the plant. Pickerel rush for ponds performs best when soils are heavy and rich. Loamy soils with moderate to slightly acidic pH create the best growing conditions for the plant. Pickerelweed plants that are grown in pots thrive in potting mix blended with a good quality topsoil and peat.
About Pickerelweed Plants
Pickerelweed plants are rushes that are closely related to grasses. The plants are in the family Pontederia, named after an 18th century botany professor. These plants grow in clumps with thick to flat stems. The foliage is glossy and dark green with a heart-shaped leaf and grows 24 to 30 inches high. Stems on mature plants arch gracefully on water grown plants. The flower spires are a deep to soft blue and rise several inches above the body of the rush. Decorative and useful plants for around the home water feature should include pickerel rush for ponds because of its ease of care and hardiness. When the plant is partially submerged, the floating leaves provide important shade to prevent excess algae growth. They also form a network of foliage in which fish can hide.
How to Grow Pickerel Rush
You can share new starts of the plant with friends easily. Divide the rhizomes in late winter to early spring. Simply dig up the plant or remove it from its pot. Use a clean sharp soil knife or pruners to cut apart the roots, leaving each piece with several healthy leaves and thick rhizomes. Replant the new clumps and they will take off quickly, increasing your pickerel weed inventory. You can also save and dry the seeds from the plant to start inside in flats in late winter. Seeded plants can take several seasons to produce the bright flowers. Caring for pickerelweeds once the seeds have germinated just requires consistent moisture and bright sunlight. Plant outside in spring.
Pickerel Rush Care
Negligence is the word of the day in caring for pickerelweed plants. These unfussy little rushes can tolerate almost anything except full shade and drought. Pickerels should be kept in deep pots where the roots can remain moist. You can also submerge the entire pot and just let the broad leaves float out around the plant. Pickerel rush for ponds performs best when soils are heavy and rich. Loamy soils with moderate to slightly acidic pH create the best growing conditions for the plant. Pickerelweed plants that are grown in pots thrive in potting mix blended with a good quality topsoil and peat.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月26日
Catmint is an aromatic herb that is commonly grown in the garden. It produces clusters of lavender-blue flowers amid mounds of gray-green foliage. This easily grown plant has an interesting history regarding its various uses in the landscape. For example, the herb is thought to have been first cultivated in the Roman town of Nepeti, where it was used as herbal tea and insect repellent. This is also believed to be the origin of its genus name, Nepeta.
Difference Between Catnip and Catmint
Many people wonder what is the difference between catnip and catmint. While basically considered the same plant that shares many of the same characteristics, there are differences between the two species. Catnip (Nepeta cataria) has less ornamental value in the garden than its catmint (Nepeta mussinii) counterpart. Catnip is also found to be highly attractive to cats, with many of them exhibiting a naturally induced euphoria around the plant. They may nibble on it or even roll around in the foliage. This type is most suitable for “cat friendly” gardens. If you don’t want your garden overrun with felines, plant catmint instead, which is much less attractive to them.
How to Grow Catmint
Catmint herb is easy to grow. These plants are good for mass planting or edging and are suitable near vegetables as an insect deterrent—especially aphids and Japanese beetles. Catmint can be grown in sun or partial shade with average, well-draining soil. They are even heat and drought tolerant, making them excellent plants for dry garden areas. Catmint is most often grown by seed or through division.
How & When to Plant Catmint
The seeds or divisions of catmint plant are planted in spring. They require plenty of space too and should be spaced (or thinned) to at least a foot or so apart. Overcrowded plants can lead to powdery mildew or leaf spot, especially in hot, humid climates. Caution is needed when planting some types of catmint plants, as they can be aggressive growers. Therefore, you may want to add some edging around them. Likewise, catmint can be planted and grown in containers.
Care of Catmint
Basic care of catmint is easy. Water catmint plants regularly until they become well established. Mulch will help retain moisture and keep down weeds. Once plants are a few inches tall, pinch them back to promote bushier growth. Catmint blooms throughout summer and fall. Deadheading spent blooms promotes additional flowering. It can also help prevent reseeding. Faassen’s catmint (Nepeta x faassenii) is sterile however, and doesn’t require deadheading. Shear the plants back to half their size in fall or following harvest.
Harvesting and Uses of Catmint Herb
Catmint can be used fresh, dried, or frozen for both culinary and herbal use. Harvest leaves as flowers begin to bloom, cutting top leaves, stems, and flowers if desired. Spread out to dry in a cool, ventilated area and store the dried herb in an airtight container or bag to preserve its potency. The leaves and shoots can be added to soups and sauces. Tea made from the leaves and flowers can be used for calming nerves and relieving coughs, congestion, and menstrual cramps.
Difference Between Catnip and Catmint
Many people wonder what is the difference between catnip and catmint. While basically considered the same plant that shares many of the same characteristics, there are differences between the two species. Catnip (Nepeta cataria) has less ornamental value in the garden than its catmint (Nepeta mussinii) counterpart. Catnip is also found to be highly attractive to cats, with many of them exhibiting a naturally induced euphoria around the plant. They may nibble on it or even roll around in the foliage. This type is most suitable for “cat friendly” gardens. If you don’t want your garden overrun with felines, plant catmint instead, which is much less attractive to them.
How to Grow Catmint
Catmint herb is easy to grow. These plants are good for mass planting or edging and are suitable near vegetables as an insect deterrent—especially aphids and Japanese beetles. Catmint can be grown in sun or partial shade with average, well-draining soil. They are even heat and drought tolerant, making them excellent plants for dry garden areas. Catmint is most often grown by seed or through division.
How & When to Plant Catmint
The seeds or divisions of catmint plant are planted in spring. They require plenty of space too and should be spaced (or thinned) to at least a foot or so apart. Overcrowded plants can lead to powdery mildew or leaf spot, especially in hot, humid climates. Caution is needed when planting some types of catmint plants, as they can be aggressive growers. Therefore, you may want to add some edging around them. Likewise, catmint can be planted and grown in containers.
Care of Catmint
Basic care of catmint is easy. Water catmint plants regularly until they become well established. Mulch will help retain moisture and keep down weeds. Once plants are a few inches tall, pinch them back to promote bushier growth. Catmint blooms throughout summer and fall. Deadheading spent blooms promotes additional flowering. It can also help prevent reseeding. Faassen’s catmint (Nepeta x faassenii) is sterile however, and doesn’t require deadheading. Shear the plants back to half their size in fall or following harvest.
Harvesting and Uses of Catmint Herb
Catmint can be used fresh, dried, or frozen for both culinary and herbal use. Harvest leaves as flowers begin to bloom, cutting top leaves, stems, and flowers if desired. Spread out to dry in a cool, ventilated area and store the dried herb in an airtight container or bag to preserve its potency. The leaves and shoots can be added to soups and sauces. Tea made from the leaves and flowers can be used for calming nerves and relieving coughs, congestion, and menstrual cramps.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月24日
Most rosemary plants have blue to purple flowers, but not pink flowering rosemary. This beauty is as easy to grow as its blue and purple cousins, has the same fragrant qualities but with different hued blossoms. Thinking about growing rosemary with pink flowers? Read on for information about growing pink rosemary plants.
Pink Flowering Rosemary Plants
Rosemary(Rosemarinus officinalis) is an aromatic, perennial evergreen shrub that is steeped in history. The ancient Romans and Greeks used rosemary and associated it with love of their deities Eros and Aphrodite. You are likely to love it as well for its delicious flavor, scent and ease of growing.
Rosemary is in the mint family, Labiatae, and is native to the Mediterranean hills, Portugal, and northwestern Spain. While rosemary is primarily used in culinary dishes, in ancient times, the herb was associated with remembrance, memory and fidelity. Roman students wore sprigs of rosemary woven into their hair to improve memory. It was once also woven into a bridal wreath to remind the new couples of their wedding vows. It was even said that just a light touch of rosemary could render one hopelessly in love. Pink flowering rosemary (Rosmarinus officinalis var. roseus) has a semi-weeping habit with typically small, needle-like, resinous leaves. With no pruning, pink flowering rosemary sprawls attractively or it can be tidily pruned. The pale pink blossoms bloom from spring into summer. It may be found under names such as ‘Majorca Pink,’ ‘Majorca,’ ‘Roseus,’ or ‘Roseus-Cozart.’
Growing Pink Rosemary
Pink flowering rosemary, like all rosemary plants, thrives in full sun and is drought tolerant and hardy down to 15 degrees F. (-9 C.). The shrub will grow to about three feet in height depending upon pruning and is hardy to USDA zones 8-11. This fragrant ornamental has few pest issues, although the usual culprits (aphids, mealybugs, scalesand spider mites) might be attracted to it. Root rot and botrytisare the most common diseases that afflict rosemary, but other than that the plant is susceptible to few diseases. The number one problem resulting in plant decline or even death is overwatering. Once the plant is established, it requires very little care. Water only when the weather has been extremely dry.
Prune the plant as desired. To harvest for use in food, only take 20% of the growth at any one time and don’t cut into the woody parts of the plant unless you are pruning and shaping it. Cut sprigs in the morning before the plant has flowered for the best flavor. The sprigs can then be dried or the leaves stripped from the woody stem and used fresh.
Pink Flowering Rosemary Plants
Rosemary(Rosemarinus officinalis) is an aromatic, perennial evergreen shrub that is steeped in history. The ancient Romans and Greeks used rosemary and associated it with love of their deities Eros and Aphrodite. You are likely to love it as well for its delicious flavor, scent and ease of growing.
Rosemary is in the mint family, Labiatae, and is native to the Mediterranean hills, Portugal, and northwestern Spain. While rosemary is primarily used in culinary dishes, in ancient times, the herb was associated with remembrance, memory and fidelity. Roman students wore sprigs of rosemary woven into their hair to improve memory. It was once also woven into a bridal wreath to remind the new couples of their wedding vows. It was even said that just a light touch of rosemary could render one hopelessly in love. Pink flowering rosemary (Rosmarinus officinalis var. roseus) has a semi-weeping habit with typically small, needle-like, resinous leaves. With no pruning, pink flowering rosemary sprawls attractively or it can be tidily pruned. The pale pink blossoms bloom from spring into summer. It may be found under names such as ‘Majorca Pink,’ ‘Majorca,’ ‘Roseus,’ or ‘Roseus-Cozart.’
Growing Pink Rosemary
Pink flowering rosemary, like all rosemary plants, thrives in full sun and is drought tolerant and hardy down to 15 degrees F. (-9 C.). The shrub will grow to about three feet in height depending upon pruning and is hardy to USDA zones 8-11. This fragrant ornamental has few pest issues, although the usual culprits (aphids, mealybugs, scalesand spider mites) might be attracted to it. Root rot and botrytisare the most common diseases that afflict rosemary, but other than that the plant is susceptible to few diseases. The number one problem resulting in plant decline or even death is overwatering. Once the plant is established, it requires very little care. Water only when the weather has been extremely dry.
Prune the plant as desired. To harvest for use in food, only take 20% of the growth at any one time and don’t cut into the woody parts of the plant unless you are pruning and shaping it. Cut sprigs in the morning before the plant has flowered for the best flavor. The sprigs can then be dried or the leaves stripped from the woody stem and used fresh.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月24日
Evergreen rosemary is an attractive evergreen shrub with needle-like leaves and brilliant blue flowers. The flowers of evergreen rosemary persist through spring and summer, filling the air with a nice piney fragrance. This beautiful herb, mostly used for seasoning dishes, is also commonly used as ornamental plantings in the landscape. The scientific name for rosemary plant is Rosmarinus officinalis, which translates to “mist of the sea,” as its gray-green foliage is thought to resemble mist against the sea cliffs of the Mediterranean, where the plant originates.
Evergreen Rosemary Plant Care
Rosemary plant care is easy. When growing rosemary plants, provide them with well-drained, sandy soil and at least six to eight hours of sunlight. These plants thrive in warm, humid environments and cannot take extremely cold temperatures. Since rosemary cannot withstand winters below 30 F. (-1C.), it’s often better when growing rosemary plants to put them in containers, which can be placed in ground and easily moved indoors during winter. Rosemary prefers to remain somewhat on the dry side; therefore, terra cotta pots are a good choice when selecting suitable containers. These pots allow the plant to dry out faster. Thoroughly water rosemary plants when the soil is dry to the touch but allow the plants to dry out between watering intervals. Even indoors, rosemary plants will require lots of light, at least six hours, so place the plant in a suitable location free of drafts.
Trimming Rosemary
Pruning rosemary will help make a bushier plant. Most herbs thrive on being trimmed every now and then, especially those used for flavorings. Snip sprigs just as you would when cutting back a houseplant, trimming rosemary once blooming has ceased. The general rule for trimming rosemary is not to take more than one-third of the plant at any time and make cuts just above a leaf joint. These can then be dried like any other herb by hanging tied bundles upside down in a cool, dry place.
Evergreen Rosemary Propagation
Rosemary plants are usually propagated by cuttings, as it can be tricky getting evergreen rosemary seeds to germinate. Successfully growing rosemary plants from seeds comes only when the seeds are very fresh and when planted in optimum growing conditions. Start new rosemary plants with cuttings from existing evergreen plants. Cut stems that are about 2 inches long and remove leaves on the bottom two-thirds of the cutting. Place the cuttings in a mixture of perlite and peat moss, spraying with water until roots begin to grow. Once roots have developed, you can plant the cuttings as you would with any rosemary plant. Rosemary plants are prone to becoming root bound and should be repotted at least once a year. Yellowing of the lower foliage is an early indication that it’s time to repot.
Evergreen Rosemary Plant Care
Rosemary plant care is easy. When growing rosemary plants, provide them with well-drained, sandy soil and at least six to eight hours of sunlight. These plants thrive in warm, humid environments and cannot take extremely cold temperatures. Since rosemary cannot withstand winters below 30 F. (-1C.), it’s often better when growing rosemary plants to put them in containers, which can be placed in ground and easily moved indoors during winter. Rosemary prefers to remain somewhat on the dry side; therefore, terra cotta pots are a good choice when selecting suitable containers. These pots allow the plant to dry out faster. Thoroughly water rosemary plants when the soil is dry to the touch but allow the plants to dry out between watering intervals. Even indoors, rosemary plants will require lots of light, at least six hours, so place the plant in a suitable location free of drafts.
Trimming Rosemary
Pruning rosemary will help make a bushier plant. Most herbs thrive on being trimmed every now and then, especially those used for flavorings. Snip sprigs just as you would when cutting back a houseplant, trimming rosemary once blooming has ceased. The general rule for trimming rosemary is not to take more than one-third of the plant at any time and make cuts just above a leaf joint. These can then be dried like any other herb by hanging tied bundles upside down in a cool, dry place.
Evergreen Rosemary Propagation
Rosemary plants are usually propagated by cuttings, as it can be tricky getting evergreen rosemary seeds to germinate. Successfully growing rosemary plants from seeds comes only when the seeds are very fresh and when planted in optimum growing conditions. Start new rosemary plants with cuttings from existing evergreen plants. Cut stems that are about 2 inches long and remove leaves on the bottom two-thirds of the cutting. Place the cuttings in a mixture of perlite and peat moss, spraying with water until roots begin to grow. Once roots have developed, you can plant the cuttings as you would with any rosemary plant. Rosemary plants are prone to becoming root bound and should be repotted at least once a year. Yellowing of the lower foliage is an early indication that it’s time to repot.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月22日
Hyssop (Hysoppus officinalis) is an attractive flowering herb commonly grown for its flavorful leaves. Growing a hyssop plant is easy and makes a lovely addition to the garden. The spikes of blue, pink, or red flowers are great for attracting important pollinators to the landscape as well.
Growing Hyssop as a Garden Plant
Although most hyssop plants are grown in herb gardens, they also have their place in flower gardens as border plants. Hyssop makes a great edging plant when grown in masses as well, but did you know that hyssop plants can also be grown in containers? When you grow hyssop in containers, make sure the pot is large enough to accommodate the large root systems. Hyssop plants prefer to be grown in areas with full sun or partial shade. They need well-drained soil, a bit on the dry side, amended with organic matter.
How to Plant Hyssop Seed
The most common way to plant hyssop is by sowing seeds. Sow hyssop seeds indoors or directly in the garden about eight to 10 weeks before the last frost. Plant hyssop just beneath the soil’s surface or about a quarter inch deep. Hyssop seeds usually take between 14 and 21 days to germinate and can be transplanted (if sown indoors) in the garden after the threat of frost has ended in spring. Space hyssop plants about 6 to 12 inches apart. Once blooming has ceased and seed capsules have completely dried, they can be collected and stored for growing hyssop the next season. In some areas, however, hyssop plants will self-seed readily. In addition, the plants can be divided in fall.
Harvesting & Pruning Hyssop Plants
If growing hyssop for use in the kitchen, it is best used fresh. However, it can be dried or frozen and stored for later use. When harvesting a hyssop plant, cut it in the morning hours once any dew has dried. Hang the plants upside down in small bunches to dry in a dark, well-ventilated area. Alternatively, you can place the leaves in a plastic bag after removing them from the stems and place in the freezer until ready to use. When you grow hyssop as a garden plant, trim back established hyssop plants heavily in early spring and again after flowering to prevent them from becoming too spindly. Cutting back the foliage also encourages bushier plants. Growing hyssop as a garden plant is not only easy but can also attract wildlife like butterflies and hummingbirds to the garden. In addition, hyssop leaves can be harvested for use in salads, soups and other dishes.
Growing Hyssop as a Garden Plant
Although most hyssop plants are grown in herb gardens, they also have their place in flower gardens as border plants. Hyssop makes a great edging plant when grown in masses as well, but did you know that hyssop plants can also be grown in containers? When you grow hyssop in containers, make sure the pot is large enough to accommodate the large root systems. Hyssop plants prefer to be grown in areas with full sun or partial shade. They need well-drained soil, a bit on the dry side, amended with organic matter.
How to Plant Hyssop Seed
The most common way to plant hyssop is by sowing seeds. Sow hyssop seeds indoors or directly in the garden about eight to 10 weeks before the last frost. Plant hyssop just beneath the soil’s surface or about a quarter inch deep. Hyssop seeds usually take between 14 and 21 days to germinate and can be transplanted (if sown indoors) in the garden after the threat of frost has ended in spring. Space hyssop plants about 6 to 12 inches apart. Once blooming has ceased and seed capsules have completely dried, they can be collected and stored for growing hyssop the next season. In some areas, however, hyssop plants will self-seed readily. In addition, the plants can be divided in fall.
Harvesting & Pruning Hyssop Plants
If growing hyssop for use in the kitchen, it is best used fresh. However, it can be dried or frozen and stored for later use. When harvesting a hyssop plant, cut it in the morning hours once any dew has dried. Hang the plants upside down in small bunches to dry in a dark, well-ventilated area. Alternatively, you can place the leaves in a plastic bag after removing them from the stems and place in the freezer until ready to use. When you grow hyssop as a garden plant, trim back established hyssop plants heavily in early spring and again after flowering to prevent them from becoming too spindly. Cutting back the foliage also encourages bushier plants. Growing hyssop as a garden plant is not only easy but can also attract wildlife like butterflies and hummingbirds to the garden. In addition, hyssop leaves can be harvested for use in salads, soups and other dishes.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月22日
Agastache is a perennial plant with lovely flower spires that bloom all season long. The Agastache flower is commonly found in purple to lavender but may also bloom in pink, rose, blue, white and orange. Growing Agastache as a drought-loving perennial actually produces the best plants. Agastache plant is tolerant of low water and poor nutrient conditions but provides you with a color display and enduring greenery for months. Learning how to grow Agastache requires no special skills or care.
What is Agastache Plant?
Agastache is in the Hyssop family of herbs and makes a flavorful tea. It is a striking plant that has many varieties, some of which are hardy and others that are frost tender and grown as annuals in most cooler climates. Growing Agastache requires sun and well drained soil. The leaves resemble catmint and are a dull green with heavy veining. The plants can grow 2 to 6 feet tall and produce the showy Agastache flowers until the first frost. Agastache flowers come in a variety of colors and rise up off of stiff triangular stems. The blooms have the appearance of being coated with fuzz because they are comprised of many tiny florets. The entire flower may be 3 to 4 inches long and begin to bloom from the top down. This means that the florets at the crown of the flower die out first, leaving tips that look slightly burnt. This just adds more interest to the Agastache plant.
How to Grow Agastache
Growing Agastache can be done indoors as starts or you may direct seed into the garden in spring. Flowers will be produce quickly on plants that are started indoors in May and transplanted in early summer. Agastache plant is hardy in USDA plant hardiness zones 4 to 10. Most plants can survive temperatures down to 10 F. (-12 C.) if heavily mulched. Provide plenty of water when plants are establishing but they can mostly fend for themselves thereafter.
Agastache Varieties
There are many types of Agastache. The genus represents 30 different plants, each with different flower color, height, foliage, aroma and hardiness. Giant hyssop is a perennial garden favorite that tops 6 feet in height. Anise hyssop or Anise Agastache (Agastache foeniculum) is a licorice flavored and scented plant that makes an excellent tea. There is even a bubble gum scented cultivar. ‘Golden Jubilee’ bears golden yellow foliage with blue flowers. There are new cultivars of Agastache flowers bred every year. It is easy to find Agastache varieties for every garden.
Agastache Uses
Agastache are usually tall plants and their lengthy stalks show best at the back of a perennial border or lining a fence. They can be used in container gardens or in cut flower gardens, as the Agastache flowers are long lasting. Growing Agastache in the butterfly garden not only attracts those beautiful insects but pollinators and hummingbirds. Deer and rabbits do not seem to enjoy Agastache, which makes it ideal for the woodland garden.
What is Agastache Plant?
Agastache is in the Hyssop family of herbs and makes a flavorful tea. It is a striking plant that has many varieties, some of which are hardy and others that are frost tender and grown as annuals in most cooler climates. Growing Agastache requires sun and well drained soil. The leaves resemble catmint and are a dull green with heavy veining. The plants can grow 2 to 6 feet tall and produce the showy Agastache flowers until the first frost. Agastache flowers come in a variety of colors and rise up off of stiff triangular stems. The blooms have the appearance of being coated with fuzz because they are comprised of many tiny florets. The entire flower may be 3 to 4 inches long and begin to bloom from the top down. This means that the florets at the crown of the flower die out first, leaving tips that look slightly burnt. This just adds more interest to the Agastache plant.
How to Grow Agastache
Growing Agastache can be done indoors as starts or you may direct seed into the garden in spring. Flowers will be produce quickly on plants that are started indoors in May and transplanted in early summer. Agastache plant is hardy in USDA plant hardiness zones 4 to 10. Most plants can survive temperatures down to 10 F. (-12 C.) if heavily mulched. Provide plenty of water when plants are establishing but they can mostly fend for themselves thereafter.
Agastache Varieties
There are many types of Agastache. The genus represents 30 different plants, each with different flower color, height, foliage, aroma and hardiness. Giant hyssop is a perennial garden favorite that tops 6 feet in height. Anise hyssop or Anise Agastache (Agastache foeniculum) is a licorice flavored and scented plant that makes an excellent tea. There is even a bubble gum scented cultivar. ‘Golden Jubilee’ bears golden yellow foliage with blue flowers. There are new cultivars of Agastache flowers bred every year. It is easy to find Agastache varieties for every garden.
Agastache Uses
Agastache are usually tall plants and their lengthy stalks show best at the back of a perennial border or lining a fence. They can be used in container gardens or in cut flower gardens, as the Agastache flowers are long lasting. Growing Agastache in the butterfly garden not only attracts those beautiful insects but pollinators and hummingbirds. Deer and rabbits do not seem to enjoy Agastache, which makes it ideal for the woodland garden.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月22日
Agastache, or anise hyssop, is an aromatic, culinary, cosmetic and medicinal herb. It has a long history of use and provides a splash of deepest blue across the perennial garden. Anise hyssop also adds a light licorice scent to the garden patch. This easy to grow herb gets woody square stems and may grow up to 3 feet tall. It needs no special attention and is, in fact, fairly self-maintaining once established. Light trimming will keep the plant looking its best. In this article, we will discuss when and how to prune Agastache for best results and a healthy plant.
Agastache Pruning Info
Many of our native perennial herbs are designed by nature to thrive without any human intervention. That being said, even a hardy specimen like anise hyssop can benefit from some minor meddling. Pruning anise hyssop when it is young in early spring will help force a bushier plant. Cutting back anise hyssop in late winter will allow the fresh new stems to come up unimpeded. The plant can also do quite well without any trimming but if you choose to cut, know when to prune Agastache for the most effective maintenance experience.
In most regions of North America, anise hyssop will brown and die back for winter. You may choose to leave it just as it is with the addition of a bit more mulch around the root zone, and no harm will come to this hardy plant. You may also want to remove the dead plant material just to tidy up the area and allow the plant’s new growth to shine through in spring. The choice is yours and neither is strictly wrong or right. It just depends upon what kind of landscape you like to maintain. Pruning anise hyssop will enhance its appearance, force new compact growth and may increase blooms if deadheaded.
When to Prune Agastache
Herbaceous plants do best if trimmed back in early spring just as new growth is about to appear. Anise hyssop can also be deadheaded and shaped lightly from spring until mid-summer. Suspend any trimming thereafter, as it may force tender new growth that can be damaged when cool weather appears. Such light pruning will allow you to remove spent flowers and prevent seed heads and prolific self-seeding. Dig up the plant and divide it every 3 to 5 years to help prevent center die-out and rejuvenate the plant.
How to Prune Agastache
How to prune Agastache is just as important as when to prune it. Always use sanitized pruning shears or loppers that are nice and sharp. To deadhead anise hyssop, simply cut off the dead flowering stems. If you wish to force new growth and shape the plant, cut back up to 1/3 of the woody material. Make cuts at a slight angle to force moisture away from the stem. Remove plant material just above a viable bud node. Heavily cutting back anise hyssop to rejuvenate the plant can be done by removing the stems to within 6 to 12 inches from the ground.
Agastache Pruning Info
Many of our native perennial herbs are designed by nature to thrive without any human intervention. That being said, even a hardy specimen like anise hyssop can benefit from some minor meddling. Pruning anise hyssop when it is young in early spring will help force a bushier plant. Cutting back anise hyssop in late winter will allow the fresh new stems to come up unimpeded. The plant can also do quite well without any trimming but if you choose to cut, know when to prune Agastache for the most effective maintenance experience.
In most regions of North America, anise hyssop will brown and die back for winter. You may choose to leave it just as it is with the addition of a bit more mulch around the root zone, and no harm will come to this hardy plant. You may also want to remove the dead plant material just to tidy up the area and allow the plant’s new growth to shine through in spring. The choice is yours and neither is strictly wrong or right. It just depends upon what kind of landscape you like to maintain. Pruning anise hyssop will enhance its appearance, force new compact growth and may increase blooms if deadheaded.
When to Prune Agastache
Herbaceous plants do best if trimmed back in early spring just as new growth is about to appear. Anise hyssop can also be deadheaded and shaped lightly from spring until mid-summer. Suspend any trimming thereafter, as it may force tender new growth that can be damaged when cool weather appears. Such light pruning will allow you to remove spent flowers and prevent seed heads and prolific self-seeding. Dig up the plant and divide it every 3 to 5 years to help prevent center die-out and rejuvenate the plant.
How to Prune Agastache
How to prune Agastache is just as important as when to prune it. Always use sanitized pruning shears or loppers that are nice and sharp. To deadhead anise hyssop, simply cut off the dead flowering stems. If you wish to force new growth and shape the plant, cut back up to 1/3 of the woody material. Make cuts at a slight angle to force moisture away from the stem. Remove plant material just above a viable bud node. Heavily cutting back anise hyssop to rejuvenate the plant can be done by removing the stems to within 6 to 12 inches from the ground.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月22日
There is a fun little plant with vibrant bluish purple flowers and leaves that change colors. Cerinthe is the grown-up name, but it is also called the Pride of Gibraltar and the blue shrimp plant. What is Cerinthe? Cerinthe is a Mediterranean species perfect for moderate environments. Growing Cerinthe plants require USDA plant hardiness zones 7 to 10. This versatile little guy might be the right choice to brighten up your garden.
What is Cerinthe?
In addition to its other names, Cerinthe is also known as honeywort or wax flower from the Greek ‘keros’ for wax and ‘anthos’ for flower. The plant is an herb related to borage, but the foliage is not as thickly haired. Instead, Cerinthe has thick greenish-gray foliage with softly rounded edges. New leaves are marbled with white, which disappears after the leaves mature. The leaves alternate in whorls up the stem in an attractive pattern. The Cerinthe blue shrimp plant (Cerinthe major ‘Purpurascens’) may be an annual in colder climes, or a half hardy perennial. The flowers are tiny and insignificant but are covered by colorful bracts. The bracts deepen into a bluer hue as nighttime temperatures cool. During the day they are a lighter purple tone. These herbs grow 2 to 4 feet tall and are perfect in beds, borders and pots.
Growing Cerinthe Plants
The Cerinthe blue shrimp plant is easy to start from seed. Soak the seeds overnight and start them indoors four to six weeks before the last frost. Plant the herb outside in April in most zones. Cerinthe plant care includes a well drained site, full to partial sun and moderate water. Potted plants require more water than in-ground plants. The herb is slightly drought tolerant but produces the best flower display when the plant is kept moist but not soggy.
Caring for Cerinthe
This is an easy-to-grow plant and Cerinthe plant care rates on the low to moderate scale. This herb will even flourish in rich soil with little to no maintenance. Once you have an established plant, self-seeding ensures a ready supply of plants every year. Outdoor plants will tend to reseed or you can collect seeds, dry them and save them for the next season. Harvest seeds in fall and save them in envelopes until early spring. You can trim back rangy stems, if you wish, to force a more compact plant. Stake tall plants or use a peony ring to keep stems upright. Once the plant experiences a hard freeze, it will die. In more temperate zones, remove the parent plant in winter and lightly mulch over the seeds. Fluff the soil in spring and the seeds should germinate and produce a new batch of Cerinthe blue shrimp plants. Use a diluted plant food once a month when caring for Cerinthe in pots.
What is Cerinthe?
In addition to its other names, Cerinthe is also known as honeywort or wax flower from the Greek ‘keros’ for wax and ‘anthos’ for flower. The plant is an herb related to borage, but the foliage is not as thickly haired. Instead, Cerinthe has thick greenish-gray foliage with softly rounded edges. New leaves are marbled with white, which disappears after the leaves mature. The leaves alternate in whorls up the stem in an attractive pattern. The Cerinthe blue shrimp plant (Cerinthe major ‘Purpurascens’) may be an annual in colder climes, or a half hardy perennial. The flowers are tiny and insignificant but are covered by colorful bracts. The bracts deepen into a bluer hue as nighttime temperatures cool. During the day they are a lighter purple tone. These herbs grow 2 to 4 feet tall and are perfect in beds, borders and pots.
Growing Cerinthe Plants
The Cerinthe blue shrimp plant is easy to start from seed. Soak the seeds overnight and start them indoors four to six weeks before the last frost. Plant the herb outside in April in most zones. Cerinthe plant care includes a well drained site, full to partial sun and moderate water. Potted plants require more water than in-ground plants. The herb is slightly drought tolerant but produces the best flower display when the plant is kept moist but not soggy.
Caring for Cerinthe
This is an easy-to-grow plant and Cerinthe plant care rates on the low to moderate scale. This herb will even flourish in rich soil with little to no maintenance. Once you have an established plant, self-seeding ensures a ready supply of plants every year. Outdoor plants will tend to reseed or you can collect seeds, dry them and save them for the next season. Harvest seeds in fall and save them in envelopes until early spring. You can trim back rangy stems, if you wish, to force a more compact plant. Stake tall plants or use a peony ring to keep stems upright. Once the plant experiences a hard freeze, it will die. In more temperate zones, remove the parent plant in winter and lightly mulch over the seeds. Fluff the soil in spring and the seeds should germinate and produce a new batch of Cerinthe blue shrimp plants. Use a diluted plant food once a month when caring for Cerinthe in pots.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月22日
A warm season annual native to the Mediterranean, borage is easily recognized by its bristly, grey-green leaves and five-petaled, star-shaped blooms, which are usually intense blue. However, less common varieties with white or pale blue blooms are also available. If you don’t have space in your garden, or if you’re concerned about the plant’s rambunctious growth habit, consider growing borage in containers.
Borage Growing Conditions
This beautiful herb definitely isn’t fussy. Borage prefers full sunlight but tolerates light shade. In the ground, borage thrives in rich, well-drained soil. However, potted borage plants do fine in any well-drained commercial potting soil.
Growing Borage in Pots
Borage reaches heights of 2 to 3 feet and the taproot is long and sturdy. Therefore, potted borage plants need a sturdy container with a depth and width of at least 12 inches. Although you can grow borage from seed, most gardeners prefer to start with bedding plants, which are generally available in garden centers or specialty herb stores. If you are adventurous, plant seeds directly in the container soon after the last frost in spring, or start the seeds indoors a few weeks earlier. Keep in mind that because of its long taproot, borage doesn’t transplant well. Starting the plant in its permanent home can save you trouble down the road.
Caring for Container Grown Borage
Water borage deeply whenever the top 1 to 2 inches of potting media feels dry to the touch, then let the pot drain. Check often during hot, dry weather, as containerized plants dry quickly, but be careful not to let the soil become soggy, which promotes rot. Borage in containers generally requires no fertilizer. If you decide to feed the plant, use a diluted solution of a water-soluble fertilizer. Avoid overfeeding, which often promotes lush foliage but few blooms.
Borage tends to be relatively pest resistant, but the plant is sometimes bugged by aphids. If you notice the tiny pests, spray the plant with insecticidal soap spray. Pinch tips of young plants to keep borage compact and bushy, and snip the leaves as needed for use in the kitchen. You can also trim the plant if it looks overgrown in mid-summer. Be sure to deadhead blooms as soon as they wilt. Otherwise, the plant will go to seed and blooming will end early. The plant may also need stakes to keep it upright.
Borage Growing Conditions
This beautiful herb definitely isn’t fussy. Borage prefers full sunlight but tolerates light shade. In the ground, borage thrives in rich, well-drained soil. However, potted borage plants do fine in any well-drained commercial potting soil.
Growing Borage in Pots
Borage reaches heights of 2 to 3 feet and the taproot is long and sturdy. Therefore, potted borage plants need a sturdy container with a depth and width of at least 12 inches. Although you can grow borage from seed, most gardeners prefer to start with bedding plants, which are generally available in garden centers or specialty herb stores. If you are adventurous, plant seeds directly in the container soon after the last frost in spring, or start the seeds indoors a few weeks earlier. Keep in mind that because of its long taproot, borage doesn’t transplant well. Starting the plant in its permanent home can save you trouble down the road.
Caring for Container Grown Borage
Water borage deeply whenever the top 1 to 2 inches of potting media feels dry to the touch, then let the pot drain. Check often during hot, dry weather, as containerized plants dry quickly, but be careful not to let the soil become soggy, which promotes rot. Borage in containers generally requires no fertilizer. If you decide to feed the plant, use a diluted solution of a water-soluble fertilizer. Avoid overfeeding, which often promotes lush foliage but few blooms.
Borage tends to be relatively pest resistant, but the plant is sometimes bugged by aphids. If you notice the tiny pests, spray the plant with insecticidal soap spray. Pinch tips of young plants to keep borage compact and bushy, and snip the leaves as needed for use in the kitchen. You can also trim the plant if it looks overgrown in mid-summer. Be sure to deadhead blooms as soon as they wilt. Otherwise, the plant will go to seed and blooming will end early. The plant may also need stakes to keep it upright.
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