文章
Miss Chen
2022年06月13日
Cotton rose (Hibiscus mutabilis) is a large flowering shrub with bright green, lobed, hairy leaves that stretch roughly 3 to 6 inches long and wide. The stems can grow tall and wide enough to become tree-like. But the plant's flowers are its real show-stopping feature.
They begin blooming in the summertime, starting off as a white or light pink color. Typically within one to three days, the color changes to a magenta pink and then a dark pink to red. The blooms then last for several more days. The shrub usually will have flowers at various stages of the color-change process on it all at once, providing exceptional visual interest. Fuzzy seed pods, whose cotton-like appearance gives the plant its common name, follow the flowers.
Cotton rose shrubs have a fast growth rate and should be planted in the spring.
Common Name Cotton rose
Botanical Name Hibiscus mutabilis
Family Malvaceae
Plant Type Shrub
Mature Size 6–15 ft. tall, 6–10 ft. wide
Sun Exposure Full, partial
Soil Type Loamy, well-drained
Soil pH Neutral, alkaline
Bloom Time Summer, fall
Flower Color White, pink, red
Hardiness Zones 7–11 (USDA)
Native Area Asia
Cotton Rose Care
Cotton rose can provide lots of drama in the landscape, yet it requires minimal maintenance. It’s not overly picky about its soil as long as there’s good drainage, and it can tolerate some drought. It’s even known to be deer-resistant.
You’ll typically have to prune annually, though the shrub usually doesn’t need extensive pruning. And plan to water and fertilize during the growing season.
Light
For best growth, plant your cotton rose in a spot that gets full sun, meaning at least six hours of direct sunlight on most days. The shrub also can tolerate partial shade, though it might not flower as profusely.
Soil
This shrub can grow in most soils with good drainage. But it does best in a loamy soil that’s rich in organic matter. A neutral to slightly alkaline soil pH is ideal.
Water
While cotton rose can tolerate some drought, it’s best to maintain a moderate amount of moisture during the growing season. A good rule of thumb is to water when the top 2 inches of soil dry out. Water minimally during the winter—just enough to prevent the soil from fully drying out. Try to avoid getting the foliage wet when watering, as this can promote fungal growth.
Temperature and Humidity
This is not a cold-hardy shrub. Frost will cause it to drop its leaves in the fall and enter dormancy. Then, it can tolerate temperatures slightly below freezing over the winter, but anything colder might damage or kill the shrub. Humidity typically isn’t a factor as long as adequate soil moisture and good air circulation around the shrub are maintained.
Fertilizer
Fertilizer isn't essential unless you have poor soil, but it can help to speed growth. Use a balanced fertilizer during the growing season, following label instructions.
Types of Cotton Rose
There are several types of cotton rose, including:
'Cotton Rose Nagoya': This cultivar features white flowers.
'Plenus': This cultivar is known for its double blooms.
'Rubra': Red flowers are the trademark of this cultivar.
Pruning
Prune your cotton rose in the late winter or early spring. Remove any damaged or diseased stems as they arise. Usually only a light pruning is necessary to shape growth. But if your shrub has become leggy and unsightly, you can cut it back almost to the ground. New shoots will quickly grow to fill in the space.
Propagating Cotton Rose
Cotton rose can be propagated by stem cuttings. Not only is this a cheap and easy way to get new plants, but it also allows you to put any stems that you pruned off to good use. The best time to take cuttings is in the late winter to early spring. Here’s how:
Trim off a piece of healthy stem that’s around 1 to 1.5 feet long. Cut just below a leaf node, and make your cut at a 45-degree angle.
Dip the cut end in rooting hormone.
Plant the cutting in a moist soilless potting mix. Use a 1-gallon container with drainage holes.
Place the container in a bright, south-facing window or in a sheltered area that gets partial sun outside if you live in a warmer climate.
Keep the soil lightly moist but never waterlogged, and roots should form in roughly four to six weeks.
How to Grow Cotton Rose From Seed
Direct sow cotton rose seeds in the spring; they germinate best when the temperatures are between roughly 55 and 65 degrees Fahrenheit. Plant them about 1/4 inch deep, and keep the soil moist but not waterlogged. You should see germination within a week or two, and plants can even flower in their first year if they're started early enough.
Potting and Repotting Cotton Rose
It’s possible to grow cotton rose in a pot, but this likely will stunt the shrub’s growth and diminish its blooms. Also, note that container plants generally need more frequent watering than those grown in the ground.
Use a quality all-purpose potting mix with good drainage. And select a container that allows for at least a few inches of extra space on all sides of the plant’s root ball. The container also should have drainage holes. Unglazed clay is a good material to allow excess soil moisture to evaporate through its walls. But you might want to consider using a grow bag because it will be lighter to move.
When you see roots coming out of the drainage holes and popping up from the soil line, it’s time to repot. It’s best to do this in the spring. Choose a container size up, and add fresh soil around the root ball.
Overwintering
In the colder parts of cotton rose's growing zones, the stems often naturally die back over the winter. But the shrub still should produce fresh growth in the spring. Plan to prune off the stems that have died back in the late winter to early spring. If you do it earlier as part of your garden's overwintering maintenance, this can damage the shrub.
If you’re growing your cotton rose in a container and live in the cooler parts of its growing zones, bring it into an unheated garage or shed over the winter. This will help to prevent the container soil from getting too cold and damaging the plant's roots.
Common Pests & Plant Diseases
Cotton rose is susceptible to some common garden pests, including aphids, mealybugs, whiteflies, spider mites, and scale. Infestations often can be treated with insecticidal soaps or even a strong spray of water.
Common diseases include leaf spot, southern stem blight, and powdery mildew. Remove any stems with signs of fungal growth. Also, aim to prevent fungal diseases by watering only at the base of the plant and maintaining good air flow around it.
How to Get Cotton Rose to Bloom
Cotton rose flowers are a saucer shape with four to five petals each. They stretch around 3 to 6 inches across. Blooming typically begins in the late summer and stretches into fall. The flowers won't provide fragrance for your garden, but they will attract many beneficial pollinators.
It's not essential to deadhead, or remove the spent blooms, but it can help to promote further blooming. However, this plant will typically bloom profusely on its own as well. Just make sure it has sufficient sunlight, moisture, and organic matter in the soil to support flowering.
Common Problems With Cotton Rose
When grown in the conditions it likes, cotton rose isn’t prone to serious problems. However, an inadequate environment can lead to some common issues.
Leaves Turning Yellow
Yellowing leaves can often be a sign of overwatering or underwatering. Make sure the soil is never waterlogged. But on the flip side, plan to water a little extra in hot weather.
Plant Leaves Falling Off
In the warmest parts of its growing zones, this shrub often holds onto its leaves year-round. But during the winter months in its cooler zones, it will naturally drop some or all of its leaves. This isn’t cause for concern, as it will regrow come spring. However, leaf drop during the growing season can be a sign of inadequate watering or disease.
FAQ
What's the difference between cotton roses and roses?
While they share a common name, cotton roses are actually members of the Hibiscus genus while roses are of the Rosa genus. However, both plants’ showy blooms do somewhat resemble each other.
Where should I place cotton rose outside my house?
The cotton rose can make for a dramatic specimen planting, providing a showy floral display toward the end of the growing season when many other plants have already wrapped up their blooming period. It also can be grown as a shrub border.
Can cotton rose be grown indoors?
It is not ideal to try to grow cotton rose shrubs indoors. They require direct sunlight to grow and bloom at their best. And they generally become too large to be a houseplant.
They begin blooming in the summertime, starting off as a white or light pink color. Typically within one to three days, the color changes to a magenta pink and then a dark pink to red. The blooms then last for several more days. The shrub usually will have flowers at various stages of the color-change process on it all at once, providing exceptional visual interest. Fuzzy seed pods, whose cotton-like appearance gives the plant its common name, follow the flowers.
Cotton rose shrubs have a fast growth rate and should be planted in the spring.
Common Name Cotton rose
Botanical Name Hibiscus mutabilis
Family Malvaceae
Plant Type Shrub
Mature Size 6–15 ft. tall, 6–10 ft. wide
Sun Exposure Full, partial
Soil Type Loamy, well-drained
Soil pH Neutral, alkaline
Bloom Time Summer, fall
Flower Color White, pink, red
Hardiness Zones 7–11 (USDA)
Native Area Asia
Cotton Rose Care
Cotton rose can provide lots of drama in the landscape, yet it requires minimal maintenance. It’s not overly picky about its soil as long as there’s good drainage, and it can tolerate some drought. It’s even known to be deer-resistant.
You’ll typically have to prune annually, though the shrub usually doesn’t need extensive pruning. And plan to water and fertilize during the growing season.
Light
For best growth, plant your cotton rose in a spot that gets full sun, meaning at least six hours of direct sunlight on most days. The shrub also can tolerate partial shade, though it might not flower as profusely.
Soil
This shrub can grow in most soils with good drainage. But it does best in a loamy soil that’s rich in organic matter. A neutral to slightly alkaline soil pH is ideal.
Water
While cotton rose can tolerate some drought, it’s best to maintain a moderate amount of moisture during the growing season. A good rule of thumb is to water when the top 2 inches of soil dry out. Water minimally during the winter—just enough to prevent the soil from fully drying out. Try to avoid getting the foliage wet when watering, as this can promote fungal growth.
Temperature and Humidity
This is not a cold-hardy shrub. Frost will cause it to drop its leaves in the fall and enter dormancy. Then, it can tolerate temperatures slightly below freezing over the winter, but anything colder might damage or kill the shrub. Humidity typically isn’t a factor as long as adequate soil moisture and good air circulation around the shrub are maintained.
Fertilizer
Fertilizer isn't essential unless you have poor soil, but it can help to speed growth. Use a balanced fertilizer during the growing season, following label instructions.
Types of Cotton Rose
There are several types of cotton rose, including:
'Cotton Rose Nagoya': This cultivar features white flowers.
'Plenus': This cultivar is known for its double blooms.
'Rubra': Red flowers are the trademark of this cultivar.
Pruning
Prune your cotton rose in the late winter or early spring. Remove any damaged or diseased stems as they arise. Usually only a light pruning is necessary to shape growth. But if your shrub has become leggy and unsightly, you can cut it back almost to the ground. New shoots will quickly grow to fill in the space.
Propagating Cotton Rose
Cotton rose can be propagated by stem cuttings. Not only is this a cheap and easy way to get new plants, but it also allows you to put any stems that you pruned off to good use. The best time to take cuttings is in the late winter to early spring. Here’s how:
Trim off a piece of healthy stem that’s around 1 to 1.5 feet long. Cut just below a leaf node, and make your cut at a 45-degree angle.
Dip the cut end in rooting hormone.
Plant the cutting in a moist soilless potting mix. Use a 1-gallon container with drainage holes.
Place the container in a bright, south-facing window or in a sheltered area that gets partial sun outside if you live in a warmer climate.
Keep the soil lightly moist but never waterlogged, and roots should form in roughly four to six weeks.
How to Grow Cotton Rose From Seed
Direct sow cotton rose seeds in the spring; they germinate best when the temperatures are between roughly 55 and 65 degrees Fahrenheit. Plant them about 1/4 inch deep, and keep the soil moist but not waterlogged. You should see germination within a week or two, and plants can even flower in their first year if they're started early enough.
Potting and Repotting Cotton Rose
It’s possible to grow cotton rose in a pot, but this likely will stunt the shrub’s growth and diminish its blooms. Also, note that container plants generally need more frequent watering than those grown in the ground.
Use a quality all-purpose potting mix with good drainage. And select a container that allows for at least a few inches of extra space on all sides of the plant’s root ball. The container also should have drainage holes. Unglazed clay is a good material to allow excess soil moisture to evaporate through its walls. But you might want to consider using a grow bag because it will be lighter to move.
When you see roots coming out of the drainage holes and popping up from the soil line, it’s time to repot. It’s best to do this in the spring. Choose a container size up, and add fresh soil around the root ball.
Overwintering
In the colder parts of cotton rose's growing zones, the stems often naturally die back over the winter. But the shrub still should produce fresh growth in the spring. Plan to prune off the stems that have died back in the late winter to early spring. If you do it earlier as part of your garden's overwintering maintenance, this can damage the shrub.
If you’re growing your cotton rose in a container and live in the cooler parts of its growing zones, bring it into an unheated garage or shed over the winter. This will help to prevent the container soil from getting too cold and damaging the plant's roots.
Common Pests & Plant Diseases
Cotton rose is susceptible to some common garden pests, including aphids, mealybugs, whiteflies, spider mites, and scale. Infestations often can be treated with insecticidal soaps or even a strong spray of water.
Common diseases include leaf spot, southern stem blight, and powdery mildew. Remove any stems with signs of fungal growth. Also, aim to prevent fungal diseases by watering only at the base of the plant and maintaining good air flow around it.
How to Get Cotton Rose to Bloom
Cotton rose flowers are a saucer shape with four to five petals each. They stretch around 3 to 6 inches across. Blooming typically begins in the late summer and stretches into fall. The flowers won't provide fragrance for your garden, but they will attract many beneficial pollinators.
It's not essential to deadhead, or remove the spent blooms, but it can help to promote further blooming. However, this plant will typically bloom profusely on its own as well. Just make sure it has sufficient sunlight, moisture, and organic matter in the soil to support flowering.
Common Problems With Cotton Rose
When grown in the conditions it likes, cotton rose isn’t prone to serious problems. However, an inadequate environment can lead to some common issues.
Leaves Turning Yellow
Yellowing leaves can often be a sign of overwatering or underwatering. Make sure the soil is never waterlogged. But on the flip side, plan to water a little extra in hot weather.
Plant Leaves Falling Off
In the warmest parts of its growing zones, this shrub often holds onto its leaves year-round. But during the winter months in its cooler zones, it will naturally drop some or all of its leaves. This isn’t cause for concern, as it will regrow come spring. However, leaf drop during the growing season can be a sign of inadequate watering or disease.
FAQ
What's the difference between cotton roses and roses?
While they share a common name, cotton roses are actually members of the Hibiscus genus while roses are of the Rosa genus. However, both plants’ showy blooms do somewhat resemble each other.
Where should I place cotton rose outside my house?
The cotton rose can make for a dramatic specimen planting, providing a showy floral display toward the end of the growing season when many other plants have already wrapped up their blooming period. It also can be grown as a shrub border.
Can cotton rose be grown indoors?
It is not ideal to try to grow cotton rose shrubs indoors. They require direct sunlight to grow and bloom at their best. And they generally become too large to be a houseplant.
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文章
Miss Chen
2022年06月07日
Cosmos are freely flowering annuals that are easy to grow by sprinkling some seeds in the garden after any danger of frost has passed. These quintessential cottage garden flowers reach full maturity in about two months. Cosmos can be slower to germinate, but it blooms quickly after that and continues to flower through the fall. The flowers sit atop long slender stems and form a cloud of attractive color all summer that attracts bees, butterflies, and birds to your garden. Cosmos flowers look a lot like daisies. They come in a broad range of colors, with more cultivars developed every year. The leaves grow opposite on stems and are deeply lobed, pinnate, or bipinnate and feathery-looking depending on the type. If you plan to have cosmos and live in the southern U.S., consider keeping them as potted plants since they tend to be invasive there.1
Common Name Cosmos, Mexican aster, cut-leaf cosmos
Botanical Name Cosmos sulphureus, Cosmos bipinnatus
Family Asteraceae
Plant Type Annual
Mature Size 1-6 ft. tall, 1-3 ft. wide
Sun Exposure Full
Soil Type Well-draining soil
Soil pH 6.0–6.8 (Acidic)
Bloom Time Summer through fall
Flower Color Golden yellow, white, pink, magenta, orange, yellow, red, chocolate
Hardiness Zones 2–11 (USDA)
Native Area northern South America, Central America, and southern North America
Cosmos Care
Cosmos grow easily in beds and make great cut flowers. When established, the plants can handle drought, poor soil conditions, and general neglect. They even self-sow. This is a truly low-maintenance plant.
While some pests, like aphids, flea beetles, and thrips feed on cosmos, they're easy to control with a strong spray of water or insecticidal soap. Aster yellows, bacterial wilt, and powdery mildew may also affect cosmos.2 Space plants accordingly to ensure good airflow to avoid diseases.
Taller varieties look good in the middle or rear of the border with goat's beard, coneflowers, and black-eyed Susans. Shorter varieties make very colorful, airy edging plants.
WARNING
Cosmos sulphureus is invasive in the southeast United States.1 Check with representatives from your local extension office to learn about any restrictions in your area.
Light
For the best flowering, choose a site that gets full sun. Cosmos will grow in partial shade but will have fewer blooms and be less vigorous when planted in shady areas. These plants will also thrive under uninterrupted full sun in the hottest conditions, much like their native habitat: the arid regions of Mexico and Central America.
Soil
Cosmos plants prefer a neutral soil with a pH of 6.0 to 8.0, although they will grow in poor soil where many flowering plants languish. They perform best in medium moisture, well-drained soils, but they will perform adequately in dry soils. Avoid planting in a rich soil; it can cause the plants to get too tall and flop over. You can prevent drooping by staking the plants or growing them close to other plants that can support them.
Water
Once established, you will not need to water your cosmos plants unless there is a prolonged drought. Where water is limited, these are the last plants that require irrigation.
Temperature and Humidity
Hot weather is ideal for cosmos, and they thrive in any humidity level.
Fertilizer
Fertilizing can negatively impact cosmos. Cosmos can handle poor soil. Too much fertilizer can often lead to strong plants with lots of foliage but few blooms. Unless your plants seem to be struggling, these plants do not need fertilizer.
Types of Cosmos
There are over 25 species of cosmos. However, three species are most commonly used in gardens and landscaping. Cosmos sulphureus is native to Mexico, Central America, and northern South America. With golden yellow blooms, it is very drought tolerant and loves hot weather. The plant grows 2 to 6 feet tall and comes in double and semi-double flowers. Some of the more recent cultivars tend to be shorter, more orangy, and with smaller flowers.
Cosmos bipinnatus are colorful daisy-like flowers that come in white, pinks, reds, and orange. At 1 to 4 feet in height, they are shorter than C. suphureus and are available in several popular hybrid series. Although they are not quite as heat tolerant as C. sulphureus, C. bipinnatus will grow well in just about any sunny space.
Chocolate cosmos are a separate species: Cosmos atrosanguineus. The dark red flowers smell like chocolate. This perennial is hardy to USDA zone 7, but it is higher maintenance than annual cosmos. Like dahlias, it grows from tubers.
Other common cosmos cultivars include:
'Bright Lights' mix: This variety boasts a blend of exuberant yellows, oranges, and reds.
'Cosmic Orange': This brilliant, semi-double orange flower has great drought tolerance.
'Peppermint Candy': An award-winning variety, the petals are splashed in magenta and white.
'Sea Shells' series: A pretty mix of pastel colors, it has distinctive tubular petals.
'Ladybird': This cosmos is a shorter variety that blooms in red, yellow, orange, or gold, averaging 18 to 24 inches tall. Light
For the best flowering, choose a site that gets full sun. Cosmos will grow in partial shade but will have fewer blooms and be less vigorous when planted in shady areas. These plants will also thrive under uninterrupted full sun in the hottest conditions, much like their native habitat: the arid regions of Mexico and Central America.
Soil
Cosmos plants prefer a neutral soil with a pH of 6.0 to 8.0, although they will grow in poor soil where many flowering plants languish. They perform best in medium moisture, well-drained soils, but they will perform adequately in dry soils. Avoid planting in a rich soil; it can cause the plants to get too tall and flop over. You can prevent drooping by staking the plants or growing them close to other plants that can support them.
Water
Once established, you will not need to water your cosmos plants unless there is a prolonged drought. Where water is limited, these are the last plants that require irrigation.
Temperature and Humidity
Hot weather is ideal for cosmos, and they thrive in any humidity level.
Fertilizer
Fertilizing can negatively impact cosmos. Cosmos can handle poor soil. Too much fertilizer can often lead to strong plants with lots of foliage but few blooms. Unless your plants seem to be struggling, these plants do not need fertilizer.
Types of Cosmos
There are over 25 species of cosmos. However, three species are most commonly used in gardens and landscaping. Cosmos sulphureus is native to Mexico, Central America, and northern South America. With golden yellow blooms, it is very drought tolerant and loves hot weather. The plant grows 2 to 6 feet tall and comes in double and semi-double flowers. Some of the more recent cultivars tend to be shorter, more orangy, and with smaller flowers.
Cosmos bipinnatus are colorful daisy-like flowers that come in white, pinks, reds, and orange. At 1 to 4 feet in height, they are shorter than C. suphureus and are available in several popular hybrid series. Although they are not quite as heat tolerant as C. sulphureus, C. bipinnatus will grow well in just about any sunny space.
Chocolate cosmos are a separate species: Cosmos atrosanguineus. The dark red flowers smell like chocolate. This perennial is hardy to USDA zone 7, but it is higher maintenance than annual cosmos. Like dahlias, it grows from tubers.
Other common cosmos cultivars include:
'Bright Lights' mix: This variety boasts a blend of exuberant yellows, oranges, and reds.
'Cosmic Orange': This brilliant, semi-double orange flower has great drought tolerance.
'Peppermint Candy': An award-winning variety, the petals are splashed in magenta and white.
'Sea Shells' series: A pretty mix of pastel colors, it has distinctive tubular petals.
'Ladybird': This cosmos is a shorter variety that blooms in red, yellow, orange, or gold, averaging 18 to 24 inches tall.
Pruning
The only real maintenance cosmos plants need is deadheading which will prolong the flowering season. If you fall behind, shear the plants by about one-third, when most flowers have faded. This kind of pruning produces a second flush of leaves and flowers. By the end of the season, you can cut off the plants at ground level or pull them up, roots and all. However, if you leave the plants in place, they may self-seed for the following growing season.
Propagating Cosmos
Cosmos plants readily self-seed. It's best to propagate these plants after the threat of frost is gone. Although sowing seeds is the best and easiest way to propagate this plant, you can also propagate via stem cutting. When you take stem trimmings, it stimulates more leaf and flower growth. Besides seed, stem cutting is the best way to propagate this plant. Here's how you do it:
You'll need sterile pruning shears or scissors and a pot of sterile, well-draining potting soil.
Fill a small 3-inch container with moistened potting soil. Using a pencil tip, push straight down in the soil about 1 to 2 inches deep, making a shallow hole.
Look for a cosmos shoot that has 3 to 5 leaf nodes on the stem. Cut under the last leaf node. At the last leaf node, carefully cut off the leaves, leaving the node intact for new growth.
Bury the cut tip of the stem in the pencil-made hole. Make sure that the last leaf node is above the soil line. Push down the soil around the stem, compacting the soil to keep the stem upright and in place.
Water generously and keep moist. You should notice new leaf growth within three weeks. If you do, you can gently pull the root ball out of the container, Transplant the root ball to its new location.
How to Grow Cosmos From Seeds
Start seeds indoors, four to six weeks before the last frost. Or if you can sow cosmos outdoors directly in the garden well after the threat of frost is gone. Cosmos grow very quickly but can be killed by a late frost, so don't rush it. They typically germinate in 7 to 21 days at 75 degrees Fahrenheit, followed by flowering in about 50 to 60 days.
Loosen the soil to a depth of 8 inches. Plant the seeds and cover them with 1/4 inch of fine soil. Seed packets usually recommend precise spacing, such as at 2-foot intervals, or you can scatter the seeds and let the plants support each other as they grow. You can always thin them out later, moving the extra plants to another part of the garden.
Potting and Repotting Cosmos
When growing cosmos in pots, make sure the container has bottom drainage holes. Cosmos can't handle overly wet, soggy soil. Plan on growing one cosmos plant per gallon of your container. If growing in pots, do not enrich the soil, it makes the plants grow tall, leggy, and droopy. Also, tall varieties will need staking in containers. At the very least, plan on using at least a heavy, 12-inch diameter container.
Overwintering
Cosmos is an annual. If left outside in frosty temperatures, they will die. However, at the end of the growing season, if you allow the dead flower heads to drop their seeds, cosmos seeds will go dormant and sprout when the soil warms up again in the spring.
If you have a potted cosmos in a container and want to keep your cosmos alive over the winter season, you will need a bright full sun growing lamp for at least 7 hours a day. You will need to snip off any blooms as they form. This plant's life cycle ends with flowering when it drops its seeds for the next growing season.
How to Get Cosmos to Bloom
Cosmos plants need full sun to bloom. Even the hint of shade, can restrict flowering. Also, to encourage more blooms, you need to deadhead the old blooms. For faster blooms, prune between the main stem and a leaf. The lower you cut in the stem, the longer it takes to grow more flowers.
Common Problems With Cosmos
Cosmos are easy to grow and maintain over the growing season. They are usually resistant to disease, and most insects; however, some pests can become a nuisance and affect their growth.3
Wilting or Leaf Discoloration
If your plant has ample water and is not wilting from a lack of hydration, there are two possible causes.
A plant that is wilting with leaf discoloration might have a common fusarium fungal infection.4 If you dig up the plant and notice a pink mass on the roots, then the plant likely has fusarium. The whole plant is beyond help, will die, and should be disposed of to stop the fungus spread.
If you dig up the roots and they look healthy, the plant may have a bacterial wilt infection.5 The bacteria cause the stems to wilt at their base. This plant will die and should be disposed of.
Yellowing Leaves and Leaf Drop
Powdery mildew mainly affects plants in the shade.6 Fungus spores fly through the air and attach to a host plant in a shady spot. It creates a powdery white coating on leaves and causes leaves to yellow and fall off. To prevent powdery mildew, provide your plants good circulation, bright light, and avoid getting water on the leaves. If your plant has fungus, use a horticultural fungicide according to the package instructions.
Flowers Distorting or Stunting in Growth
As a member of the aster family, cosmos can get aster yellows, a disease spread by leafhoppers (a tiny grasshopper-looking insect).7 The leaves will get yellow mottling on the leaves, and the flowers will appear distorted or stunted. Dispose of these plants since there is nothing you can do help them recover.
FAQ
Are cosmos easy to care for?
Cosmos are easy to care for, germinate, and will self-seed for the following growing season.
How fast do cosmos grow?
Cosmos generally take 7 to 21 days to germinate and will flower within 50 to 60 days of germination.
How long can cosmos live?
Cosmos is an annual that germinates, flowers, and drops seed in preparation for the following growing season. Cosmos will languish and eventually die after flowering.
What's the difference between a Cosmos sulphureus and Cosmos bipinnatus?
C. bipinnatus are bushy plants that grow to an average height of about 1 to 4 feet. The flowers come in red, pink, and white. The leaves are spaced apart along the stem and cut into thread-like segments. The outer rays of the flowers surround the yellow-colored, clustered central disc of florets. Meanwhile, C.sulphureus can grow to a height of 2 to 6 feet. The flowers come in shades of orange, yellow, and red. It has hairy stems, and the daisy-like flowers have yellow rays and discs.
Common Name Cosmos, Mexican aster, cut-leaf cosmos
Botanical Name Cosmos sulphureus, Cosmos bipinnatus
Family Asteraceae
Plant Type Annual
Mature Size 1-6 ft. tall, 1-3 ft. wide
Sun Exposure Full
Soil Type Well-draining soil
Soil pH 6.0–6.8 (Acidic)
Bloom Time Summer through fall
Flower Color Golden yellow, white, pink, magenta, orange, yellow, red, chocolate
Hardiness Zones 2–11 (USDA)
Native Area northern South America, Central America, and southern North America
Cosmos Care
Cosmos grow easily in beds and make great cut flowers. When established, the plants can handle drought, poor soil conditions, and general neglect. They even self-sow. This is a truly low-maintenance plant.
While some pests, like aphids, flea beetles, and thrips feed on cosmos, they're easy to control with a strong spray of water or insecticidal soap. Aster yellows, bacterial wilt, and powdery mildew may also affect cosmos.2 Space plants accordingly to ensure good airflow to avoid diseases.
Taller varieties look good in the middle or rear of the border with goat's beard, coneflowers, and black-eyed Susans. Shorter varieties make very colorful, airy edging plants.
WARNING
Cosmos sulphureus is invasive in the southeast United States.1 Check with representatives from your local extension office to learn about any restrictions in your area.
Light
For the best flowering, choose a site that gets full sun. Cosmos will grow in partial shade but will have fewer blooms and be less vigorous when planted in shady areas. These plants will also thrive under uninterrupted full sun in the hottest conditions, much like their native habitat: the arid regions of Mexico and Central America.
Soil
Cosmos plants prefer a neutral soil with a pH of 6.0 to 8.0, although they will grow in poor soil where many flowering plants languish. They perform best in medium moisture, well-drained soils, but they will perform adequately in dry soils. Avoid planting in a rich soil; it can cause the plants to get too tall and flop over. You can prevent drooping by staking the plants or growing them close to other plants that can support them.
Water
Once established, you will not need to water your cosmos plants unless there is a prolonged drought. Where water is limited, these are the last plants that require irrigation.
Temperature and Humidity
Hot weather is ideal for cosmos, and they thrive in any humidity level.
Fertilizer
Fertilizing can negatively impact cosmos. Cosmos can handle poor soil. Too much fertilizer can often lead to strong plants with lots of foliage but few blooms. Unless your plants seem to be struggling, these plants do not need fertilizer.
Types of Cosmos
There are over 25 species of cosmos. However, three species are most commonly used in gardens and landscaping. Cosmos sulphureus is native to Mexico, Central America, and northern South America. With golden yellow blooms, it is very drought tolerant and loves hot weather. The plant grows 2 to 6 feet tall and comes in double and semi-double flowers. Some of the more recent cultivars tend to be shorter, more orangy, and with smaller flowers.
Cosmos bipinnatus are colorful daisy-like flowers that come in white, pinks, reds, and orange. At 1 to 4 feet in height, they are shorter than C. suphureus and are available in several popular hybrid series. Although they are not quite as heat tolerant as C. sulphureus, C. bipinnatus will grow well in just about any sunny space.
Chocolate cosmos are a separate species: Cosmos atrosanguineus. The dark red flowers smell like chocolate. This perennial is hardy to USDA zone 7, but it is higher maintenance than annual cosmos. Like dahlias, it grows from tubers.
Other common cosmos cultivars include:
'Bright Lights' mix: This variety boasts a blend of exuberant yellows, oranges, and reds.
'Cosmic Orange': This brilliant, semi-double orange flower has great drought tolerance.
'Peppermint Candy': An award-winning variety, the petals are splashed in magenta and white.
'Sea Shells' series: A pretty mix of pastel colors, it has distinctive tubular petals.
'Ladybird': This cosmos is a shorter variety that blooms in red, yellow, orange, or gold, averaging 18 to 24 inches tall. Light
For the best flowering, choose a site that gets full sun. Cosmos will grow in partial shade but will have fewer blooms and be less vigorous when planted in shady areas. These plants will also thrive under uninterrupted full sun in the hottest conditions, much like their native habitat: the arid regions of Mexico and Central America.
Soil
Cosmos plants prefer a neutral soil with a pH of 6.0 to 8.0, although they will grow in poor soil where many flowering plants languish. They perform best in medium moisture, well-drained soils, but they will perform adequately in dry soils. Avoid planting in a rich soil; it can cause the plants to get too tall and flop over. You can prevent drooping by staking the plants or growing them close to other plants that can support them.
Water
Once established, you will not need to water your cosmos plants unless there is a prolonged drought. Where water is limited, these are the last plants that require irrigation.
Temperature and Humidity
Hot weather is ideal for cosmos, and they thrive in any humidity level.
Fertilizer
Fertilizing can negatively impact cosmos. Cosmos can handle poor soil. Too much fertilizer can often lead to strong plants with lots of foliage but few blooms. Unless your plants seem to be struggling, these plants do not need fertilizer.
Types of Cosmos
There are over 25 species of cosmos. However, three species are most commonly used in gardens and landscaping. Cosmos sulphureus is native to Mexico, Central America, and northern South America. With golden yellow blooms, it is very drought tolerant and loves hot weather. The plant grows 2 to 6 feet tall and comes in double and semi-double flowers. Some of the more recent cultivars tend to be shorter, more orangy, and with smaller flowers.
Cosmos bipinnatus are colorful daisy-like flowers that come in white, pinks, reds, and orange. At 1 to 4 feet in height, they are shorter than C. suphureus and are available in several popular hybrid series. Although they are not quite as heat tolerant as C. sulphureus, C. bipinnatus will grow well in just about any sunny space.
Chocolate cosmos are a separate species: Cosmos atrosanguineus. The dark red flowers smell like chocolate. This perennial is hardy to USDA zone 7, but it is higher maintenance than annual cosmos. Like dahlias, it grows from tubers.
Other common cosmos cultivars include:
'Bright Lights' mix: This variety boasts a blend of exuberant yellows, oranges, and reds.
'Cosmic Orange': This brilliant, semi-double orange flower has great drought tolerance.
'Peppermint Candy': An award-winning variety, the petals are splashed in magenta and white.
'Sea Shells' series: A pretty mix of pastel colors, it has distinctive tubular petals.
'Ladybird': This cosmos is a shorter variety that blooms in red, yellow, orange, or gold, averaging 18 to 24 inches tall.
Pruning
The only real maintenance cosmos plants need is deadheading which will prolong the flowering season. If you fall behind, shear the plants by about one-third, when most flowers have faded. This kind of pruning produces a second flush of leaves and flowers. By the end of the season, you can cut off the plants at ground level or pull them up, roots and all. However, if you leave the plants in place, they may self-seed for the following growing season.
Propagating Cosmos
Cosmos plants readily self-seed. It's best to propagate these plants after the threat of frost is gone. Although sowing seeds is the best and easiest way to propagate this plant, you can also propagate via stem cutting. When you take stem trimmings, it stimulates more leaf and flower growth. Besides seed, stem cutting is the best way to propagate this plant. Here's how you do it:
You'll need sterile pruning shears or scissors and a pot of sterile, well-draining potting soil.
Fill a small 3-inch container with moistened potting soil. Using a pencil tip, push straight down in the soil about 1 to 2 inches deep, making a shallow hole.
Look for a cosmos shoot that has 3 to 5 leaf nodes on the stem. Cut under the last leaf node. At the last leaf node, carefully cut off the leaves, leaving the node intact for new growth.
Bury the cut tip of the stem in the pencil-made hole. Make sure that the last leaf node is above the soil line. Push down the soil around the stem, compacting the soil to keep the stem upright and in place.
Water generously and keep moist. You should notice new leaf growth within three weeks. If you do, you can gently pull the root ball out of the container, Transplant the root ball to its new location.
How to Grow Cosmos From Seeds
Start seeds indoors, four to six weeks before the last frost. Or if you can sow cosmos outdoors directly in the garden well after the threat of frost is gone. Cosmos grow very quickly but can be killed by a late frost, so don't rush it. They typically germinate in 7 to 21 days at 75 degrees Fahrenheit, followed by flowering in about 50 to 60 days.
Loosen the soil to a depth of 8 inches. Plant the seeds and cover them with 1/4 inch of fine soil. Seed packets usually recommend precise spacing, such as at 2-foot intervals, or you can scatter the seeds and let the plants support each other as they grow. You can always thin them out later, moving the extra plants to another part of the garden.
Potting and Repotting Cosmos
When growing cosmos in pots, make sure the container has bottom drainage holes. Cosmos can't handle overly wet, soggy soil. Plan on growing one cosmos plant per gallon of your container. If growing in pots, do not enrich the soil, it makes the plants grow tall, leggy, and droopy. Also, tall varieties will need staking in containers. At the very least, plan on using at least a heavy, 12-inch diameter container.
Overwintering
Cosmos is an annual. If left outside in frosty temperatures, they will die. However, at the end of the growing season, if you allow the dead flower heads to drop their seeds, cosmos seeds will go dormant and sprout when the soil warms up again in the spring.
If you have a potted cosmos in a container and want to keep your cosmos alive over the winter season, you will need a bright full sun growing lamp for at least 7 hours a day. You will need to snip off any blooms as they form. This plant's life cycle ends with flowering when it drops its seeds for the next growing season.
How to Get Cosmos to Bloom
Cosmos plants need full sun to bloom. Even the hint of shade, can restrict flowering. Also, to encourage more blooms, you need to deadhead the old blooms. For faster blooms, prune between the main stem and a leaf. The lower you cut in the stem, the longer it takes to grow more flowers.
Common Problems With Cosmos
Cosmos are easy to grow and maintain over the growing season. They are usually resistant to disease, and most insects; however, some pests can become a nuisance and affect their growth.3
Wilting or Leaf Discoloration
If your plant has ample water and is not wilting from a lack of hydration, there are two possible causes.
A plant that is wilting with leaf discoloration might have a common fusarium fungal infection.4 If you dig up the plant and notice a pink mass on the roots, then the plant likely has fusarium. The whole plant is beyond help, will die, and should be disposed of to stop the fungus spread.
If you dig up the roots and they look healthy, the plant may have a bacterial wilt infection.5 The bacteria cause the stems to wilt at their base. This plant will die and should be disposed of.
Yellowing Leaves and Leaf Drop
Powdery mildew mainly affects plants in the shade.6 Fungus spores fly through the air and attach to a host plant in a shady spot. It creates a powdery white coating on leaves and causes leaves to yellow and fall off. To prevent powdery mildew, provide your plants good circulation, bright light, and avoid getting water on the leaves. If your plant has fungus, use a horticultural fungicide according to the package instructions.
Flowers Distorting or Stunting in Growth
As a member of the aster family, cosmos can get aster yellows, a disease spread by leafhoppers (a tiny grasshopper-looking insect).7 The leaves will get yellow mottling on the leaves, and the flowers will appear distorted or stunted. Dispose of these plants since there is nothing you can do help them recover.
FAQ
Are cosmos easy to care for?
Cosmos are easy to care for, germinate, and will self-seed for the following growing season.
How fast do cosmos grow?
Cosmos generally take 7 to 21 days to germinate and will flower within 50 to 60 days of germination.
How long can cosmos live?
Cosmos is an annual that germinates, flowers, and drops seed in preparation for the following growing season. Cosmos will languish and eventually die after flowering.
What's the difference between a Cosmos sulphureus and Cosmos bipinnatus?
C. bipinnatus are bushy plants that grow to an average height of about 1 to 4 feet. The flowers come in red, pink, and white. The leaves are spaced apart along the stem and cut into thread-like segments. The outer rays of the flowers surround the yellow-colored, clustered central disc of florets. Meanwhile, C.sulphureus can grow to a height of 2 to 6 feet. The flowers come in shades of orange, yellow, and red. It has hairy stems, and the daisy-like flowers have yellow rays and discs.
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Miss Chen
2022年05月30日
The corkscrew vine, corkscrew flower, or snail flower (vigna caracalla) is a rapid-growing, twining, perennial vine with fragrant flowers. This member of the pea family is native to the tropical areas of Central and South America, and it thrives in regions that replicate these types of conditions.
The corkscrew vine has also naturalized--and sometimes aggressively self-seeds and spreads--in parts of California.
It's an evergreen, deciduous plant when grown in frost-free regions, and known for its ornamental attractiveness. Its showy flowers twist spirally on the vine, so it looks like a corkscrew. The flower gets its "snail" moniker thanks to the fact that the way its flowers curl closely around resembles a mollusc shell.
From July to October, and up until the first frost, the corkscrew vine blooms highly fragrant white and lilac/purple flowers, and they are sometimes marked with yellow and cream colors. Its spiraling flowers are about two inches long and grow in erect clusters, known as racemes, that can reach up to a foot long. Its vines sprout green leaves, which each have three leaflets about three to five inches long.
The flowers are accompanied by dangling, narrow bean-like pods that are six to seven inches long and one-inch wide, and contain round brown seeds.
Botanical Name Vigna caracalla
Common Name Corkscrew vine
Plant Type Vine
Mature Size 12-30 feet
Sun Exposure Full sun
Soil Type Moist, well-drained
Soil pH 6-8
Bloom Time Late summer/Fall
Flower Color White, purple
Hardiness Zones 9-12
Native Area Central and South America
Corkscrew Vine Plant Care
The fast-growing corkscrew vine is relatively easy to grow from seed, however, its vine-like structure means it will need a support structure on which to grow. They may be grown as either a perennial or an annual, and as a cover for a fence, arbor, wall, or trellis.
Just be aware that once it's established, the corkscrew vine is a very fast grower and may very well take over your entire garden, and even the rest of your backyard, so be sure to closely monitor its growth and spread.
These plants are not associated with any significant insect or disease problems and are known to attract both birds and butterflies. The corkscrew vine's flowers are primarily pollinated by ants.
Light
Corkscrew vine plants will grow best when planted in full sunlight. They can also tolerate partial shade.
Soil
When growing corkscrew vine plants, the soil should be fertile, moist, and well-drained.
Water
You'll want to make sure the corkscrew vine's soil never becomes overly soggy. Water the vines only when they appear dry, and keep the water at soil level. You should also allow the excess moisture to seep away after watering. Applying a three-inch layer of mulch can help maintain soil moisture.
Temperature and Humidity
These plants love heat and humidity, and will always grow best in tropical climates. They can be grown in northern climates but will have to be moved indoors well before the first frost of the winter. corkscrew vines will not do well once temperatures dip below 50 degrees Fahrenheit.
Fertilizer
Though the corkscrew vine doesn't necessarily require fertilizer, you can use an organically-sourced and balanced granular fertilizer to promote its growth.
Propagating Corkscrew Vine
The corkscrew vine plant can be propagated by seed and is usually started indoors, as it handles transplanting well. Try using toenail clippers to clip the seed coat about at least halfway around the edge of the seed to encourage successful germination.
Be sure to sow the seeds with only a light covering of soil on top. They will take up to six days to germinate depending on the temperature of the soil and whether or not the seed coat is scarified.
Pruning
In addition to monitoring its spread to prevent it from taking over your garden, once your corkscrew vine has matured, you'll want to cut back its leaves and tendrils. This will help promote more significant flowering.
Growing in Containers
The corkscrew vine can be grown in containers and then brought indoors in northern climates and other regions where the plant is not winter hardy. Just be sure there is excellent drainage within the pots and that you place it in front of a sunny window.
The corkscrew vine has also naturalized--and sometimes aggressively self-seeds and spreads--in parts of California.
It's an evergreen, deciduous plant when grown in frost-free regions, and known for its ornamental attractiveness. Its showy flowers twist spirally on the vine, so it looks like a corkscrew. The flower gets its "snail" moniker thanks to the fact that the way its flowers curl closely around resembles a mollusc shell.
From July to October, and up until the first frost, the corkscrew vine blooms highly fragrant white and lilac/purple flowers, and they are sometimes marked with yellow and cream colors. Its spiraling flowers are about two inches long and grow in erect clusters, known as racemes, that can reach up to a foot long. Its vines sprout green leaves, which each have three leaflets about three to five inches long.
The flowers are accompanied by dangling, narrow bean-like pods that are six to seven inches long and one-inch wide, and contain round brown seeds.
Botanical Name Vigna caracalla
Common Name Corkscrew vine
Plant Type Vine
Mature Size 12-30 feet
Sun Exposure Full sun
Soil Type Moist, well-drained
Soil pH 6-8
Bloom Time Late summer/Fall
Flower Color White, purple
Hardiness Zones 9-12
Native Area Central and South America
Corkscrew Vine Plant Care
The fast-growing corkscrew vine is relatively easy to grow from seed, however, its vine-like structure means it will need a support structure on which to grow. They may be grown as either a perennial or an annual, and as a cover for a fence, arbor, wall, or trellis.
Just be aware that once it's established, the corkscrew vine is a very fast grower and may very well take over your entire garden, and even the rest of your backyard, so be sure to closely monitor its growth and spread.
These plants are not associated with any significant insect or disease problems and are known to attract both birds and butterflies. The corkscrew vine's flowers are primarily pollinated by ants.
Light
Corkscrew vine plants will grow best when planted in full sunlight. They can also tolerate partial shade.
Soil
When growing corkscrew vine plants, the soil should be fertile, moist, and well-drained.
Water
You'll want to make sure the corkscrew vine's soil never becomes overly soggy. Water the vines only when they appear dry, and keep the water at soil level. You should also allow the excess moisture to seep away after watering. Applying a three-inch layer of mulch can help maintain soil moisture.
Temperature and Humidity
These plants love heat and humidity, and will always grow best in tropical climates. They can be grown in northern climates but will have to be moved indoors well before the first frost of the winter. corkscrew vines will not do well once temperatures dip below 50 degrees Fahrenheit.
Fertilizer
Though the corkscrew vine doesn't necessarily require fertilizer, you can use an organically-sourced and balanced granular fertilizer to promote its growth.
Propagating Corkscrew Vine
The corkscrew vine plant can be propagated by seed and is usually started indoors, as it handles transplanting well. Try using toenail clippers to clip the seed coat about at least halfway around the edge of the seed to encourage successful germination.
Be sure to sow the seeds with only a light covering of soil on top. They will take up to six days to germinate depending on the temperature of the soil and whether or not the seed coat is scarified.
Pruning
In addition to monitoring its spread to prevent it from taking over your garden, once your corkscrew vine has matured, you'll want to cut back its leaves and tendrils. This will help promote more significant flowering.
Growing in Containers
The corkscrew vine can be grown in containers and then brought indoors in northern climates and other regions where the plant is not winter hardy. Just be sure there is excellent drainage within the pots and that you place it in front of a sunny window.
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文章
Miss Chen
2022年05月26日
The coral honeysuckle produces beautiful trumpet-shaped flowers in red, coral, orange, or yellow. Despite the invasive reputation of common honeysuckle, coral honeysuckle is native to the southeast United States and is a perfect alternative to its invasive cousins. The flowers attract hummingbirds and butterflies, while its red berries in the fall attract songbirds.
This vine has oblong, paired leaves. Leaves located at the upper ends of the vines are connected, creating the appearance of one leaf. Mature vines have papery, orange-brown bark that complements the orange-red flowers. This stunning plant is evergreen in warm climates, though in colder climates it is a perennial vine. When planting, it is best to do so in the spring or fall, as the summer heat will stress a new plant. Alternatively, the coral honeysuckle can also be grown in large containers.
Botanical Name Lonicera sempervirens
Common Name Coral honeysuckle, trumpet honeysuckle
Plant Type Evergreen, perennial, vine
Mature Size 15-25 ft. tall, 15-25 ft. wide
Sun Exposure Full, partial
Soil Type Loamy, sandy, clay, well-drained
Soil pH Acidic, neutral
Bloom Time Spring, summer
Flower Color Red, pink, orange, yellow
Hardiness Zones 4-11, USA
Native Area North America
Toxicity Toxic to pets
Coral Honeysuckle Care
The coral honeysuckle has easy care requirements. These plants are easy to maintain, since they prove adaptable to many conditions. It needs well-draining soil and full to partial sunshine. Good air circulation will help prevent disease. Aside from pruning vines that have ventured too far, coral honeysuckle thrives when left to weave and wind on its own.
Providing a trellis is a great way to display the abundant flowers of this plant. To do this, gently help the vine wrap around the trellis as it grows, or lightly tie it to the trellis with twine. This climbing vine can also be allowed to creep along the ground as ground cover. Though honeysuckle is often looked at as an invasive species in the US, coral honeysuckle is actually native in to the southeast US. Japanese honeysuckle, on the other hand, is very invasive. The coral honeysuckle is not often troubled by pests or diseases, but they may encounter aphids or powdery mildew.
Light
Providing this plant with full sun will produce the best blooms. Though it can be grown in part shade, the plant will not flower as abundantly.
Soil
Coral honeysuckle needs well-draining soil. As long as this need is met, this plant can adapt to a variety of soil conditions. If the soil does not drain well enough, adding compost can resolve the issue. Coral honeysuckle prefers acidic to neutral soil pH.
Water
Established plants are very drought tolerant. Regular watering will help promote healthy blooming and is most important for young, establishing plants. Depending on your area, natural rainfall may provide enough water for these plants.
Temperature and Humidity
These plants are both heat tolerant and cold tolerant. Coral honeysuckle can withstand hard frosts and cold temperatures down to USDA zone 4. It prefers medium humidity levels, as high humidity can encourage powdery mildew.
Fertilizer
Coral honeysuckle appreciates a balanced fertilizer during its growing seasons. It does not require large amounts of fertilizer, so adding some to the soil in spring is enough to keep this plant healthy.
Pruning Coral Honeysuckle
The only pruning required of coral honeysuckle is any trimming required to maintain a desired shape or size. Pruning is best done after the first big bloom. This will prevent the removal of blossoms that have not bloomed.
Propagating Coral Honeysuckle
Propagation is easily done with softwood cuttings in late spring or summer. Take note of these instructions:
Using sharp garden snips, trim a softwood vine that is around 6 inches long.
Remove the bottom sets of leaves. It is best to have around 2 exposed nodes near the cut end and two sets of leaves at the tip of the cutting.
At this point, either dip the cut end into rooting hormone and place the cutting in moist soil or place the cutting in water.
Place the cutting in indirect sunlight. If kept in water, be sure to change the water regularly. When roots appear, plant in well-drained potting soil, and continue to grow until large enough for planting in the garden.
As new growth appears and root growth is apparent (tug gently to check for resistance), transfer to your desired planting location.
How to Grow Coral Honeysuckle from Seed
Propagation by seed is another way to grow coral honeysuckle. Here is how to gather and plant seeds:
Remove the berry flesh and place the seeds in the refrigerator for around 3 months for cold stratification.
After this, plant the seeds and cover lightly with well-draining, moist soil.
Place a plastic bag or tray over the seeds to retain moisture.
Keep the soil moist and remove the cover once seedlings appear.
Potting and Repotting Coral Honeysuckle
To grow coral honeysuckle in containers, be sure to choose a container with good drainage holes. Fill it with a well-draining soil mix and keep it in a sunny location. When the honeysuckle fills the pot and no longer has room to grow, gently tip the pot onto its side to work the plant and its root system free. Place the plant in a slightly larger pot and fill it with fresh soil.
Overwintering Coral Honeysuckle
Because coral honeysuckle plants are cold tolerant and can withstand hard frost, there is not much required to overwinter these plants. Planting them near structures such as fences or trellises will help shelter them from cold winds. Additionally, adding mulch in the fall will help to insulate the root system from excessively cold temperatures. If growing in a container that is not winterproof, bring the plant inside to grow as a houseplant during the winter.
This vine has oblong, paired leaves. Leaves located at the upper ends of the vines are connected, creating the appearance of one leaf. Mature vines have papery, orange-brown bark that complements the orange-red flowers. This stunning plant is evergreen in warm climates, though in colder climates it is a perennial vine. When planting, it is best to do so in the spring or fall, as the summer heat will stress a new plant. Alternatively, the coral honeysuckle can also be grown in large containers.
Botanical Name Lonicera sempervirens
Common Name Coral honeysuckle, trumpet honeysuckle
Plant Type Evergreen, perennial, vine
Mature Size 15-25 ft. tall, 15-25 ft. wide
Sun Exposure Full, partial
Soil Type Loamy, sandy, clay, well-drained
Soil pH Acidic, neutral
Bloom Time Spring, summer
Flower Color Red, pink, orange, yellow
Hardiness Zones 4-11, USA
Native Area North America
Toxicity Toxic to pets
Coral Honeysuckle Care
The coral honeysuckle has easy care requirements. These plants are easy to maintain, since they prove adaptable to many conditions. It needs well-draining soil and full to partial sunshine. Good air circulation will help prevent disease. Aside from pruning vines that have ventured too far, coral honeysuckle thrives when left to weave and wind on its own.
Providing a trellis is a great way to display the abundant flowers of this plant. To do this, gently help the vine wrap around the trellis as it grows, or lightly tie it to the trellis with twine. This climbing vine can also be allowed to creep along the ground as ground cover. Though honeysuckle is often looked at as an invasive species in the US, coral honeysuckle is actually native in to the southeast US. Japanese honeysuckle, on the other hand, is very invasive. The coral honeysuckle is not often troubled by pests or diseases, but they may encounter aphids or powdery mildew.
Light
Providing this plant with full sun will produce the best blooms. Though it can be grown in part shade, the plant will not flower as abundantly.
Soil
Coral honeysuckle needs well-draining soil. As long as this need is met, this plant can adapt to a variety of soil conditions. If the soil does not drain well enough, adding compost can resolve the issue. Coral honeysuckle prefers acidic to neutral soil pH.
Water
Established plants are very drought tolerant. Regular watering will help promote healthy blooming and is most important for young, establishing plants. Depending on your area, natural rainfall may provide enough water for these plants.
Temperature and Humidity
These plants are both heat tolerant and cold tolerant. Coral honeysuckle can withstand hard frosts and cold temperatures down to USDA zone 4. It prefers medium humidity levels, as high humidity can encourage powdery mildew.
Fertilizer
Coral honeysuckle appreciates a balanced fertilizer during its growing seasons. It does not require large amounts of fertilizer, so adding some to the soil in spring is enough to keep this plant healthy.
Pruning Coral Honeysuckle
The only pruning required of coral honeysuckle is any trimming required to maintain a desired shape or size. Pruning is best done after the first big bloom. This will prevent the removal of blossoms that have not bloomed.
Propagating Coral Honeysuckle
Propagation is easily done with softwood cuttings in late spring or summer. Take note of these instructions:
Using sharp garden snips, trim a softwood vine that is around 6 inches long.
Remove the bottom sets of leaves. It is best to have around 2 exposed nodes near the cut end and two sets of leaves at the tip of the cutting.
At this point, either dip the cut end into rooting hormone and place the cutting in moist soil or place the cutting in water.
Place the cutting in indirect sunlight. If kept in water, be sure to change the water regularly. When roots appear, plant in well-drained potting soil, and continue to grow until large enough for planting in the garden.
As new growth appears and root growth is apparent (tug gently to check for resistance), transfer to your desired planting location.
How to Grow Coral Honeysuckle from Seed
Propagation by seed is another way to grow coral honeysuckle. Here is how to gather and plant seeds:
Remove the berry flesh and place the seeds in the refrigerator for around 3 months for cold stratification.
After this, plant the seeds and cover lightly with well-draining, moist soil.
Place a plastic bag or tray over the seeds to retain moisture.
Keep the soil moist and remove the cover once seedlings appear.
Potting and Repotting Coral Honeysuckle
To grow coral honeysuckle in containers, be sure to choose a container with good drainage holes. Fill it with a well-draining soil mix and keep it in a sunny location. When the honeysuckle fills the pot and no longer has room to grow, gently tip the pot onto its side to work the plant and its root system free. Place the plant in a slightly larger pot and fill it with fresh soil.
Overwintering Coral Honeysuckle
Because coral honeysuckle plants are cold tolerant and can withstand hard frost, there is not much required to overwinter these plants. Planting them near structures such as fences or trellises will help shelter them from cold winds. Additionally, adding mulch in the fall will help to insulate the root system from excessively cold temperatures. If growing in a container that is not winterproof, bring the plant inside to grow as a houseplant during the winter.
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Miss Chen
2022年05月14日
Rue is a short-lived perennial herb with a small, shrub-like growth habit. It features aromatic, blue-green foliage with a fern-like appearance. And in the summertime, it sports clusters of small yellow flowers that attract butterflies and other pollinators to the garden, as well as parasitic wasps. The ornamental herb has a moderate growth rate and should be planted in the spring after danger of frost has passed. Be aware that despite their past as a traditional use as a medicinal herb, rue leaves are toxic both to people1 and pets2.
Common Name Rue, common rue, garden rue, herb of grace
Botanical Name Ruta graveolens
Family Rutaceae
Plant Type Perennial, herb
Size 2–3 feet tall and wide
Sun Exposure Full sun
Soil Type Well-drained
Soil pH Acidic, neutral, alkaline (6.5 to 8.5)
Bloom Time Summer
Hardiness Zones 4–10 (USDA)
Native Area Europe
Toxicity Toxic to people, toxic to pets
How to Plant Rue
When to Plant
Rue is normally planted from potted nursery starts or from seeds in the garden once spring soil temperatures reach around 70 degrees Fahrenheit. Seeds will germinate in one to four weeks.
Selecting a Planting Site
If you choose a sunny site with good drainage for your rue plants, they almost certainly will thrive with virtually no care. Rue flowers are good candidates for tough sites and will even grow in gravel. If your garden has heavy or wet soil, consider container culture. Avoid putting the plants near walkways or other areas where you might come in contact with them, as the sap can cause skin irritation.3
Spacing, Depth, and Support
Smooth the soil of your garden site prior to planting, and break up any soil clumps. Then, simply scatter the seeds over the moist soil surface and slightly press them in, as they need light to germinate. Space plants around 1 to 2 feet apart. Do not allow seedlings to dry out. A support structure typically won’t be necessary, as rue naturally has an upright growth habit.
Rue Plant Care
Light
Rue grows best in full sun, meaning at least six hours of direct sunlight on most days. But partial shade is also tolerated. However, plants will produce fewer flowers in the shade.
Soil
Sharp drainage is important for healthy rue plants. Add sand, perlite, or vermiculite to the soil to help drainage. Or use raised beds with prepared soil in gardens where heavy clay dominates. Rue likes a moderately rich soil but can tolerate poor soils. And it can grow in a slightly acidic to slightly alkaline soil pH.
Water
Once established, common rue is very drought tolerant and is a good candidate for a xeriscape or rock garden. You won't need to water except for periods of extensive dry weather. Avoid overwatering, which can cause root rot.
Temperature and Humidity
Rue plants thrive in hot weather and low humidity, similar to their native habitat of Greece, Turkey, and Italy. However, the plants are tolerant of humidity as long as they have good soil drainage and air circulation around them.
Fertilizer
Do not fertilize rue plants. Excess nutrients will cause the plants to produce more foliage at the expense of the flowers.
Pollination
Garden pollinators, including bees and butterflies, are highly attracted to rue and assist it in its pollination.
Types of Rue
There are several varieties of rue, including:
‘Blue Beauty’: This plant has especially vivid blue-green leaves.
‘Jackman’s Blue’: This variety features a strong blue color and a potent aroma.
‘Variegata’: The leaves on this variety have some white in them.
Rue vs. Fenugreek
As another bitter herb that bears small yellow flowers, it's easy to confuse fenugreek (Trigonella foenum-graecum) with rue. Fenugreek, however, is an annual legume and does not have some of the toxic properties that rue flowers do. You can grow fenugreek in the sunny garden after all danger of frost has passed and use the ground seeds in curries or the leaves in salads.
Harvesting Rue
Rue is often harvested to use as dried flowers. And some people make sachets out of rue and use them to deter pests, including fleas and ants. Wear gloves and long sleeves when working with rue to protect your skin. Cut a mature plant at ground level with pruners. Then, hang it in a dark, dry place to dry until the leaves become brittle. Keep the fully dried rue in an airtight container until you’re ready to use it for sachets or other purposes.
How to Grow Rue in Pots
If you don’t have garden space or have heavy soil, container growth is a good option for rue. Choose a pot that’s around 12 to 16 inches wide and deep, and make sure it has drainage holes. An unglazed clay container is ideal because it will allow excess soil moisture to escape through its walls.
Pruning
Rue is a semi-woody perennial that flowers on new growth. To keep the plant vigorous and looking its best, cut stems back to around 6 inches in the early spring. Don’t wait too long, or you’ll end up pruning off some flower buds. You also can prune in the fall after flowering is finished.
Propagating Rue
It's easy to make new rue plants via stem cuttings. This is a quick and inexpensive way to replace mature plants that are nearing the end of their life cycle, as rue plants only live around five years. The best time to take cuttings is in the late summer from new growth, but be sure to wear protective clothing during the process. Here's how:
Cut roughly a 6-inch piece of stem from new growth.
Remove any foliage on the lower half of the cutting.
Plant the cutting in a container of moistened soilless potting mix.
Place in a clear bag to maintain moisture.
Keep the mix moist but not soggy. Once you feel resistance when you gently tug on the stem, you'll know roots have developed.
How to Grow Rue From Seed
Rue is easy to start from seeds in the garden or in trays. The soil must be at least 68 degrees Fahrenheit for germination, and some light must reach the seeds. When the seedlings develop at least two sets of true leaves, they can be transplanted into larger pots. Harden off seedlings before planting in the garden.
Rue plants will self-seed, sometimes aggressively, in warm regions. You can collect the brown seed capsules in late summer after flowering to plant elsewhere.
Potting and Repotting Rue
You can use any well-draining potting mix for rue in containers. Repotting is necessary when you see roots coming out of the drainage holes of the pot. Remember to wear protective clothing when repotting.
The bluish foliage of rue plants marries well with plants that have golden foliage, such as the gold cultivars of oregano, sage, or thyme. These herbs all like the same sunny, dry conditions and well-drained soil that rue thrives in, so they blend well in mixed containers.
Overwintering
In the northern portion of rue’s growing zones, add a layer of mulch around the plants to protect them over the winter. Aim to do this before frost hits in the fall.
Common Pests and Plant Diseases
Rue doesn’t have any major pest or disease issues. In fact, if you see caterpillars feeding on your rue plants, don't spray them. It's likely they are swallowtail butterfly caterpillars, which use rue as a host plant and benefit your entire garden. The primary disease issue that can affect rue is root rot from wet soils. So ensure that your plants are never waterlogged.
FAQ
Is rue easy to grow?
Rue requires very little maintenance as long as it has a sunny spot with well-draining soil.
How long does it take to grow rue?
Rue has a moderate growth rate and will germinate in one to four weeks.
Does rue come back every year?
Rue is a perennial, coming back every year, but it doesn't tend to be long-lived. However, it will self-seed to produce new plants in the garden.
Common Name Rue, common rue, garden rue, herb of grace
Botanical Name Ruta graveolens
Family Rutaceae
Plant Type Perennial, herb
Size 2–3 feet tall and wide
Sun Exposure Full sun
Soil Type Well-drained
Soil pH Acidic, neutral, alkaline (6.5 to 8.5)
Bloom Time Summer
Hardiness Zones 4–10 (USDA)
Native Area Europe
Toxicity Toxic to people, toxic to pets
How to Plant Rue
When to Plant
Rue is normally planted from potted nursery starts or from seeds in the garden once spring soil temperatures reach around 70 degrees Fahrenheit. Seeds will germinate in one to four weeks.
Selecting a Planting Site
If you choose a sunny site with good drainage for your rue plants, they almost certainly will thrive with virtually no care. Rue flowers are good candidates for tough sites and will even grow in gravel. If your garden has heavy or wet soil, consider container culture. Avoid putting the plants near walkways or other areas where you might come in contact with them, as the sap can cause skin irritation.3
Spacing, Depth, and Support
Smooth the soil of your garden site prior to planting, and break up any soil clumps. Then, simply scatter the seeds over the moist soil surface and slightly press them in, as they need light to germinate. Space plants around 1 to 2 feet apart. Do not allow seedlings to dry out. A support structure typically won’t be necessary, as rue naturally has an upright growth habit.
Rue Plant Care
Light
Rue grows best in full sun, meaning at least six hours of direct sunlight on most days. But partial shade is also tolerated. However, plants will produce fewer flowers in the shade.
Soil
Sharp drainage is important for healthy rue plants. Add sand, perlite, or vermiculite to the soil to help drainage. Or use raised beds with prepared soil in gardens where heavy clay dominates. Rue likes a moderately rich soil but can tolerate poor soils. And it can grow in a slightly acidic to slightly alkaline soil pH.
Water
Once established, common rue is very drought tolerant and is a good candidate for a xeriscape or rock garden. You won't need to water except for periods of extensive dry weather. Avoid overwatering, which can cause root rot.
Temperature and Humidity
Rue plants thrive in hot weather and low humidity, similar to their native habitat of Greece, Turkey, and Italy. However, the plants are tolerant of humidity as long as they have good soil drainage and air circulation around them.
Fertilizer
Do not fertilize rue plants. Excess nutrients will cause the plants to produce more foliage at the expense of the flowers.
Pollination
Garden pollinators, including bees and butterflies, are highly attracted to rue and assist it in its pollination.
Types of Rue
There are several varieties of rue, including:
‘Blue Beauty’: This plant has especially vivid blue-green leaves.
‘Jackman’s Blue’: This variety features a strong blue color and a potent aroma.
‘Variegata’: The leaves on this variety have some white in them.
Rue vs. Fenugreek
As another bitter herb that bears small yellow flowers, it's easy to confuse fenugreek (Trigonella foenum-graecum) with rue. Fenugreek, however, is an annual legume and does not have some of the toxic properties that rue flowers do. You can grow fenugreek in the sunny garden after all danger of frost has passed and use the ground seeds in curries or the leaves in salads.
Harvesting Rue
Rue is often harvested to use as dried flowers. And some people make sachets out of rue and use them to deter pests, including fleas and ants. Wear gloves and long sleeves when working with rue to protect your skin. Cut a mature plant at ground level with pruners. Then, hang it in a dark, dry place to dry until the leaves become brittle. Keep the fully dried rue in an airtight container until you’re ready to use it for sachets or other purposes.
How to Grow Rue in Pots
If you don’t have garden space or have heavy soil, container growth is a good option for rue. Choose a pot that’s around 12 to 16 inches wide and deep, and make sure it has drainage holes. An unglazed clay container is ideal because it will allow excess soil moisture to escape through its walls.
Pruning
Rue is a semi-woody perennial that flowers on new growth. To keep the plant vigorous and looking its best, cut stems back to around 6 inches in the early spring. Don’t wait too long, or you’ll end up pruning off some flower buds. You also can prune in the fall after flowering is finished.
Propagating Rue
It's easy to make new rue plants via stem cuttings. This is a quick and inexpensive way to replace mature plants that are nearing the end of their life cycle, as rue plants only live around five years. The best time to take cuttings is in the late summer from new growth, but be sure to wear protective clothing during the process. Here's how:
Cut roughly a 6-inch piece of stem from new growth.
Remove any foliage on the lower half of the cutting.
Plant the cutting in a container of moistened soilless potting mix.
Place in a clear bag to maintain moisture.
Keep the mix moist but not soggy. Once you feel resistance when you gently tug on the stem, you'll know roots have developed.
How to Grow Rue From Seed
Rue is easy to start from seeds in the garden or in trays. The soil must be at least 68 degrees Fahrenheit for germination, and some light must reach the seeds. When the seedlings develop at least two sets of true leaves, they can be transplanted into larger pots. Harden off seedlings before planting in the garden.
Rue plants will self-seed, sometimes aggressively, in warm regions. You can collect the brown seed capsules in late summer after flowering to plant elsewhere.
Potting and Repotting Rue
You can use any well-draining potting mix for rue in containers. Repotting is necessary when you see roots coming out of the drainage holes of the pot. Remember to wear protective clothing when repotting.
The bluish foliage of rue plants marries well with plants that have golden foliage, such as the gold cultivars of oregano, sage, or thyme. These herbs all like the same sunny, dry conditions and well-drained soil that rue thrives in, so they blend well in mixed containers.
Overwintering
In the northern portion of rue’s growing zones, add a layer of mulch around the plants to protect them over the winter. Aim to do this before frost hits in the fall.
Common Pests and Plant Diseases
Rue doesn’t have any major pest or disease issues. In fact, if you see caterpillars feeding on your rue plants, don't spray them. It's likely they are swallowtail butterfly caterpillars, which use rue as a host plant and benefit your entire garden. The primary disease issue that can affect rue is root rot from wet soils. So ensure that your plants are never waterlogged.
FAQ
Is rue easy to grow?
Rue requires very little maintenance as long as it has a sunny spot with well-draining soil.
How long does it take to grow rue?
Rue has a moderate growth rate and will germinate in one to four weeks.
Does rue come back every year?
Rue is a perennial, coming back every year, but it doesn't tend to be long-lived. However, it will self-seed to produce new plants in the garden.
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文章
Miss Chen
2022年05月05日
If you are looking for a flower to add to a charming cottage garden, look no further than the common hollyhock (Alcea rosea). This traditional garden favorite can grow up to 8 feet tall with large, heart-shaped foliage and long-blooming ornamental flowers. This biennial herbaceous plant adds plenty of interest, and readily self-seeds to provide new growth year after year. You can plant hollyhocks in late summer when growing from seed, and they will bloom the following year.
Botanical Name Alcea rosea
Common Name Common hollyhock
Family Malvaceae
Plant Type Biennial, Herbaceous
Mature Size 6-8 ft. tall, 1 to 2 ft. wide
Sun Exposure Full sun
Soil Type Moist, Well-drained
Soil pH Acid, Neutral, Alkaline
Bloom Time Summer
Flower Color White, Pink, Red, Yellow, Lavender
Hardiness Zones 2-10, USA
Native Area Turkey
How to Grow and Care for Aloe
Common Hollyhock Care
These adaptable plants can grow in a range of conditions but aren't fans of wet winter soils. Hollyhocks grow on strong, sturdy stems which will stay upright without staking when planted in a sheltered spot. With large, showy blooms in a range of colors, this old-fashioned favorite is eye-catching when planted at the back of a border or along a fence or wall. Space your common hollyhocks far enough apart when planting to promote good air circulation and reduce problems with the fungal disease rust. Positioning them about 18 inches apart should be adequate.
Light
Although common hollyhocks can tolerate partial shade, they prefer a warm, full sun position. Too much shade will result in these tall plants flopping over, but excessively hot, dry weather can cause lower leaves to wither and die.
Soil
Part of the appeal of common hollyhocks is their ability to succeed in most soils. They prefer fertile, heavy soils, but, providing you enrich poor soils with organic matter, your plants should still do well.
Water
Common hollyhocks prefer evenly moist conditions, but wet winter soils are problematic. If your soil is not draining well during a wet winter, you could amend it with compost to improve air circulation and drainage. Water the roots and not the leaves of this plant, as wet leaves promote problems with the fungal diseases these plants are susceptible to.
Temperature and Humidity
Hardy down to about 5 degrees Fahrenheit, hollyhocks are pretty cold tolerant. However, early frosts can damage the flowers. Ideal daytime temperatures for flowering plants are around 65 to 70 degrees Fahrenheit.
Excessive humidity can result in problems with the fungal disease hollyhock rust.
Fertilizer
In terms of maintenance, one of the most important considerations for common hollyhocks is their nutrient levels. These plants love fertile conditions and are heavy feeders. Adding organic matter to your soil in the spring and applying an organic flower fertilizer or fish emulsion that is high in nitrogen every few weeks during the bloom period will result in bigger flowers and healthier foliage. Poor nutrient levels can result in yellowing of the plant's leaves and disappointing blooms.
Propagating Common Hollyhock
You can propagate common hollyhocks through division in the fall or spring when the plants are not flowering. Take root cuttings in winter (around Decembe, and you can propagate basal cuttings at any time of the year. Make sure to select rust-free plants.
How to Grow Common Hollyhock From Seed
Common hollyhocks are easy to grow from seeds. Sow seeds around late spring or late summer. The ideal temperature for germination is around 60 degrees Fahrenheit. After danger of frost, direct sow in the garden bed about 1/4 inch deep and 18 to 20 inches apart. Cover lightly with soil. If you plan to start your seeds in pots, start about 2 weeks prior to the last frost. Select deep pots and transplant outdoors as soon as true leaves emerge. Hollyhocks have a deep taproot which, once established, may not transplant well. Regardless of where you start your hollyhock seeds, be patient: they typically take around two weeks to germinate.
Common Pests & Plant Diseases
The fungal disease rust can be a major problem for the foliage and it can quickly spread resulting in premature leaf drop and stunted growth. Removing the leaves on the lower part of the plant stem, cutting the plants back in the fall, and promptly removing the debris will help to minimize fungus problems and spread.
You might also find that Japanese beetles and spider mites are attracted to your common hollyhock, and young growth tends to be a tasty treat for slugs.
How to Get Common Hollyhocks to Bloom
The flowers of the common hollyhock are large (around 4 to 5 inches in diameter), face outwards on the long central stem, and come in various colors, including white, pink, red, yellow, and lavender. Some say the flowers resemble those of opium poppies (Papaver somniferum).
Although these plants are typically grown as biennials, meaning there will only be one flowering season, they have a long bloom period, lasting from mid-summer to early fall. A fertile soil with lots of nutrients, consistent moisture, and deadheading wilted blooms will encourage abundant, large, healthy blooms.
FAQ
Are common hollyhocks easy to grow?
Although the common hollyhock grows from seed easily, they need the right amount of nutrients, spacing, and moisture levels to encourage healthy blooms and minimize problems with the fungal disease rust.
How long can common hollyhocks live?
This species is a short-lived perennial that is typically grown as a biennial. This means the plant takes two years to complete it's life cycle. Look for a leafy rosette the first year, followed by a sturdy central stock with blooms the second year. With the right care and conditions, you may get an additional year of flowering from your common hollyhock.
Where can I grow common hollyhock in my garden?
These tall cottage garden favorites are well suited to be grown against walls or fences or as a stunning backdrop in beds and borders.
Botanical Name Alcea rosea
Common Name Common hollyhock
Family Malvaceae
Plant Type Biennial, Herbaceous
Mature Size 6-8 ft. tall, 1 to 2 ft. wide
Sun Exposure Full sun
Soil Type Moist, Well-drained
Soil pH Acid, Neutral, Alkaline
Bloom Time Summer
Flower Color White, Pink, Red, Yellow, Lavender
Hardiness Zones 2-10, USA
Native Area Turkey
How to Grow and Care for Aloe
Common Hollyhock Care
These adaptable plants can grow in a range of conditions but aren't fans of wet winter soils. Hollyhocks grow on strong, sturdy stems which will stay upright without staking when planted in a sheltered spot. With large, showy blooms in a range of colors, this old-fashioned favorite is eye-catching when planted at the back of a border or along a fence or wall. Space your common hollyhocks far enough apart when planting to promote good air circulation and reduce problems with the fungal disease rust. Positioning them about 18 inches apart should be adequate.
Light
Although common hollyhocks can tolerate partial shade, they prefer a warm, full sun position. Too much shade will result in these tall plants flopping over, but excessively hot, dry weather can cause lower leaves to wither and die.
Soil
Part of the appeal of common hollyhocks is their ability to succeed in most soils. They prefer fertile, heavy soils, but, providing you enrich poor soils with organic matter, your plants should still do well.
Water
Common hollyhocks prefer evenly moist conditions, but wet winter soils are problematic. If your soil is not draining well during a wet winter, you could amend it with compost to improve air circulation and drainage. Water the roots and not the leaves of this plant, as wet leaves promote problems with the fungal diseases these plants are susceptible to.
Temperature and Humidity
Hardy down to about 5 degrees Fahrenheit, hollyhocks are pretty cold tolerant. However, early frosts can damage the flowers. Ideal daytime temperatures for flowering plants are around 65 to 70 degrees Fahrenheit.
Excessive humidity can result in problems with the fungal disease hollyhock rust.
Fertilizer
In terms of maintenance, one of the most important considerations for common hollyhocks is their nutrient levels. These plants love fertile conditions and are heavy feeders. Adding organic matter to your soil in the spring and applying an organic flower fertilizer or fish emulsion that is high in nitrogen every few weeks during the bloom period will result in bigger flowers and healthier foliage. Poor nutrient levels can result in yellowing of the plant's leaves and disappointing blooms.
Propagating Common Hollyhock
You can propagate common hollyhocks through division in the fall or spring when the plants are not flowering. Take root cuttings in winter (around Decembe, and you can propagate basal cuttings at any time of the year. Make sure to select rust-free plants.
How to Grow Common Hollyhock From Seed
Common hollyhocks are easy to grow from seeds. Sow seeds around late spring or late summer. The ideal temperature for germination is around 60 degrees Fahrenheit. After danger of frost, direct sow in the garden bed about 1/4 inch deep and 18 to 20 inches apart. Cover lightly with soil. If you plan to start your seeds in pots, start about 2 weeks prior to the last frost. Select deep pots and transplant outdoors as soon as true leaves emerge. Hollyhocks have a deep taproot which, once established, may not transplant well. Regardless of where you start your hollyhock seeds, be patient: they typically take around two weeks to germinate.
Common Pests & Plant Diseases
The fungal disease rust can be a major problem for the foliage and it can quickly spread resulting in premature leaf drop and stunted growth. Removing the leaves on the lower part of the plant stem, cutting the plants back in the fall, and promptly removing the debris will help to minimize fungus problems and spread.
You might also find that Japanese beetles and spider mites are attracted to your common hollyhock, and young growth tends to be a tasty treat for slugs.
How to Get Common Hollyhocks to Bloom
The flowers of the common hollyhock are large (around 4 to 5 inches in diameter), face outwards on the long central stem, and come in various colors, including white, pink, red, yellow, and lavender. Some say the flowers resemble those of opium poppies (Papaver somniferum).
Although these plants are typically grown as biennials, meaning there will only be one flowering season, they have a long bloom period, lasting from mid-summer to early fall. A fertile soil with lots of nutrients, consistent moisture, and deadheading wilted blooms will encourage abundant, large, healthy blooms.
FAQ
Are common hollyhocks easy to grow?
Although the common hollyhock grows from seed easily, they need the right amount of nutrients, spacing, and moisture levels to encourage healthy blooms and minimize problems with the fungal disease rust.
How long can common hollyhocks live?
This species is a short-lived perennial that is typically grown as a biennial. This means the plant takes two years to complete it's life cycle. Look for a leafy rosette the first year, followed by a sturdy central stock with blooms the second year. With the right care and conditions, you may get an additional year of flowering from your common hollyhock.
Where can I grow common hollyhock in my garden?
These tall cottage garden favorites are well suited to be grown against walls or fences or as a stunning backdrop in beds and borders.
0
0
文章
Miss Chen
2022年05月03日
Common bleeding heart (Lamprocapnos spectabilis) is a spring-blooming herbaceous perennial plant that grows arching stems from rhizomatous roots and produces sprays of small heart-shaped flowers of pink and white. The plant is a fast grower that typically reaches 2 or 3 feet in height within 60 days or so. Though it flourishes best outdoors, growing it indoors is entirely possible and rewarding.
Common bleeding heart contains isoquinolone alkaloids, which can be toxic to humans and some animals.
FEATURED VIDEO
How to Grow and Care for Aloe
Botanical Name Lamprocapnos spectabilis (formerly Dicentra spectabilis)
Common Names Common bleeding heart, bleeding heart
Plant Type Herbaceous perennial flower
Toxicity Toxic to people, toxic to pets
Can You Grow Common Bleeding Heart Inside?
The need for partial or full shade, as well as the plant's love of moderate to cooler temperatures, makes this a fantastic option for growing indoors. An ambient temperature of 65 degrees Fahrenheit or less is ideal. Though it might grow faster outdoors, the use of excellent potting soil and proper placement away from windows will help it grow. Give it the proper conditions and you won't have to give it much attention beyond regular watering. Keep in mind that it will need a larger pot, at least 12 inches in diameter, to truly thrive.
How to Grow Common Bleeding Heart Indoors
Sunlight
Grow this plant in partial shade to full shade. In partial shade, Lamprocapnos spectabilis will need approximately 6 to 8 hours of sunlight. It will tolerate some sun, especially in cooler climates. Watch to make sure it does not become overheated. This could result in a lack of flowering.
Temperature and Humidity
The bleeding heart likes relatively cool conditions and will not do well with too much sun, especially in the southern part of the hardiness range. It tolerates a wide range of humidity levels. The ideal growing temperature for common bleeding heart is 65 degrees Fahrenheit; this makes them especially well-suited to the indoor environment.
Watering
Keep the soil moist but the foliage dry. These plants need a full 1 inch of water each week. However, do not allow the roots of bleeding heart to soak in water, as this can lead to rot.
Fertilizer
Mix compost or peat moss into the soil before planting, then feed each month with a slow-release, granular fertilizer mixed into the soil around the base of the plant.
Pruning and Maintenance
No pruning is required for common bleeding heart. Cut back dying foliage for a better appearance. When stems die, cut them down as close to the base as possible. Keep in mind that the plant might go dormant, even under the best of indoor conditions, but it will rebloom.
Container and Size
Since common bleeding heart can reach several feet in height, it is imperative to pot it in a container that accommodates the growing roots. Start with a container at least 12 inches in diameter. The material doesn't matter as long as the container has good drainage.
Potting Soil and Drainage
Moist, well-drained soil with a high-level of organic humus is best for this plant. It prefers a slightly acidic to neutral soil pH.
Potting and Repotting Common Bleeding Heart
Common bleeding heart can grow for four or five years in a large pot until it must be divided and repotted. When repotting, make sure to leave 2 to 3 inches of growing room around the root ball and fill the pot with fresh soil.
Moving Common Bleeding Heart Outdoors for the Summer
Bleeding heart can easily move outdoors during the summer months. Keep in mind, however, that the optimum growing temperature is about 65 degrees Fahrenheit; this means springtime is great for moving it outside, but the summer months might be warm enough to make the plant go dormant.
Considerations
Ensure that your plant is kept in partial to full shade. When the temperature ticks up beyond 65 degrees Fahrenheit, the plant might go dormant. Watch the sky to ensure the plant doesn't receive too much water.
When to Bring Common Bleeding Heart Back Inside
Before bringing the plant inside, make sure it is free of garden pests. Though there is no need to acclimate it to the indoor atmosphere, keep in mind that if it was subjected to temperatures higher than 65 degrees Fahrenheit while outside, it might go dormant regardless of the care you give it indoors.
FAQ
Is it easy to propagate common bleeding heart?
To propagate, dig up the roots in the early spring, and divide them into pieces. Discard any dried pieces, then replant the segments.
How do you force common bleeding heart to bloom indoors?
It should bloom easily in the right conditions, including indirect sunlight and good humidity levels during the winter season. Keep in mind the life cycle of the common bleeding heart means it will go dormant during cooler weather.
Common bleeding heart contains isoquinolone alkaloids, which can be toxic to humans and some animals.
FEATURED VIDEO
How to Grow and Care for Aloe
Botanical Name Lamprocapnos spectabilis (formerly Dicentra spectabilis)
Common Names Common bleeding heart, bleeding heart
Plant Type Herbaceous perennial flower
Toxicity Toxic to people, toxic to pets
Can You Grow Common Bleeding Heart Inside?
The need for partial or full shade, as well as the plant's love of moderate to cooler temperatures, makes this a fantastic option for growing indoors. An ambient temperature of 65 degrees Fahrenheit or less is ideal. Though it might grow faster outdoors, the use of excellent potting soil and proper placement away from windows will help it grow. Give it the proper conditions and you won't have to give it much attention beyond regular watering. Keep in mind that it will need a larger pot, at least 12 inches in diameter, to truly thrive.
How to Grow Common Bleeding Heart Indoors
Sunlight
Grow this plant in partial shade to full shade. In partial shade, Lamprocapnos spectabilis will need approximately 6 to 8 hours of sunlight. It will tolerate some sun, especially in cooler climates. Watch to make sure it does not become overheated. This could result in a lack of flowering.
Temperature and Humidity
The bleeding heart likes relatively cool conditions and will not do well with too much sun, especially in the southern part of the hardiness range. It tolerates a wide range of humidity levels. The ideal growing temperature for common bleeding heart is 65 degrees Fahrenheit; this makes them especially well-suited to the indoor environment.
Watering
Keep the soil moist but the foliage dry. These plants need a full 1 inch of water each week. However, do not allow the roots of bleeding heart to soak in water, as this can lead to rot.
Fertilizer
Mix compost or peat moss into the soil before planting, then feed each month with a slow-release, granular fertilizer mixed into the soil around the base of the plant.
Pruning and Maintenance
No pruning is required for common bleeding heart. Cut back dying foliage for a better appearance. When stems die, cut them down as close to the base as possible. Keep in mind that the plant might go dormant, even under the best of indoor conditions, but it will rebloom.
Container and Size
Since common bleeding heart can reach several feet in height, it is imperative to pot it in a container that accommodates the growing roots. Start with a container at least 12 inches in diameter. The material doesn't matter as long as the container has good drainage.
Potting Soil and Drainage
Moist, well-drained soil with a high-level of organic humus is best for this plant. It prefers a slightly acidic to neutral soil pH.
Potting and Repotting Common Bleeding Heart
Common bleeding heart can grow for four or five years in a large pot until it must be divided and repotted. When repotting, make sure to leave 2 to 3 inches of growing room around the root ball and fill the pot with fresh soil.
Moving Common Bleeding Heart Outdoors for the Summer
Bleeding heart can easily move outdoors during the summer months. Keep in mind, however, that the optimum growing temperature is about 65 degrees Fahrenheit; this means springtime is great for moving it outside, but the summer months might be warm enough to make the plant go dormant.
Considerations
Ensure that your plant is kept in partial to full shade. When the temperature ticks up beyond 65 degrees Fahrenheit, the plant might go dormant. Watch the sky to ensure the plant doesn't receive too much water.
When to Bring Common Bleeding Heart Back Inside
Before bringing the plant inside, make sure it is free of garden pests. Though there is no need to acclimate it to the indoor atmosphere, keep in mind that if it was subjected to temperatures higher than 65 degrees Fahrenheit while outside, it might go dormant regardless of the care you give it indoors.
FAQ
Is it easy to propagate common bleeding heart?
To propagate, dig up the roots in the early spring, and divide them into pieces. Discard any dried pieces, then replant the segments.
How do you force common bleeding heart to bloom indoors?
It should bloom easily in the right conditions, including indirect sunlight and good humidity levels during the winter season. Keep in mind the life cycle of the common bleeding heart means it will go dormant during cooler weather.
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0
文章
Miss Chen
2022年04月19日
Named after its resemblance to the comb on a rooster, cockscomb boasts brightly-colored blooms with a unique comb-like shape. These flowers are part of the Amaranthaceae family under the Celosia genus. The Cristata Group has taken the common name of cockscomb and features alternating, lance-like leaves that can be found in green or bronze, while its blooms can be red, pink, yellow, or white. The velvety, large flowers keep their colors even when dried, making them a perfect addition to wreaths or dried flower arrangements. Though often planted as an annual, cockscomb can be used as a perennial in warm climates.
Botanical Name Celosia argentea var. cristata
Common Name Cockscomb
Plant Type Annual, perennial
Mature Size 12 in. tall, 12 in. wide
Sun Exposure Full, partial
Soil Type Loamy, moist but well-drained
Soil pH Acidic, neutral
Bloom Time Summer, fall
Flower Color Red, pink, orange, yellow, white
Hardiness Zones 9-12, USA
Native Area South America, Central America, Asia, Africa
Cockscomb Care
Cockscomb is a great, low-maintenance plant that offers a huge burst of color in the garden. It thrives in warm temperatures but can still be used as an annual in areas with cold winters. Place this plant in an area with lots of sunshine and rich, moist, well-draining soil.
To encourage more flowers to bloom, deadhead the spent blooms throughout its growing season. If allowed to go to seed, these plants will readily reseed themselves, producing plenty of flowers the following year. To prevent this, simply trim away spent blooms before they go to seed. Cockscomb is resistant to pests and most diseases, though fungal diseases can be an issue.
Light
Full sun will encourage plentiful growth of cockscomb. These plants can tolerate some shade, but shaded areas can harbor too much moisture and contribute to fungus or rot. At least 8 hours of direct sunlight will keep these plants healthy.
Soil
Cockscomb thrives in rich, nutrient-dense soil conditions and prefers neutral to slightly acidic pH levels. Well-draining soil is essential since it helps to ward off issues with fungal diseases.
Water
A regular watering schedule will keep these plants healthy, as they prefer evenly moist soil. However, be sure not to overwater. To avoid this, water once the top inch or two of the soil feels dry. Water at the base of the plant to avoid getting the leaves wet.
Temperature and Humidity
Cockscomb thrives in warm climates but can still be planted as an annual in areas with cold winters. In zones 9-11, it can be kept as a perennial. This plant can withstand both low and high humidity levels.
Fertilizer
Before planting a cockscomb plant, amend the soil with compost. This will enrich the soil with needed nutrients as well as help the soil drain excess water. During its growing season, apply liquid fertilizer monthly to support blooming.
Propagating Cockscomb
Propagate cockscomb by means of cuttings:
Using clean garden snips, cut a stem that is at least a few inches tall.
Remove the bottom sets of leaves, making sure the cutting has around two sets of healthy leaves near its tip.
Dip stem in rooting hormone to help ensure root development.
Plant the cutting into well-draining soil in a pot. Cuttings should root in 3 or 4 weeks. Tug on the plant gently--if you feel resistance, it has rooted. Transplant in the garden after hardening off, if you've grown the cutting inside.
How to Grow Cockscomb from Seed
When growing cockscomb from seeds, be sure to start the seeds around 8 to 10 weeks before your last frost date for planting. For cold climates where this plant grows as an annual, seed starting will need to be done indoors. For warm climates, this can be done directly in the garden. Here’s how:
Very gently press the seeds into warm, moist, well-draining soil. The seeds need light to germinate, so don't cover with soil.
Keep the soil moist. A plastic cover may be used to retain moisture. If so, air out the plants daily and mist the soil. Seedlings should appear in one to two weeks.
Once seedlings appear, remove the plastic cover. Be sure the seedlings are in an area with abundant light. If kept indoors, they may require a grow light. Seedlings need 12 to 16 hours of light.
Once the seedlings begin producing leaves true leaves (not the cotyledon, or first "seed" leaves), thin out each plant to one per pot. If in the garden, thin them out to around 10 inches apart.
Once indoor seedlings are around a month old and have several sets of strong leaves, harden them off. Hardening off slowly and correctly is important, as changing conditions can stunt this plant’s growth. Make sure outdoor conditions are warm, and there's no chance of frost.
Plant your seedling in their permanent location, keeping the soil line at the same height. Burying them too deeply can cause stem rot, while not burying deep enough can cause the plants to dry out.
Potting and Repotting Cockscomb
Because of this plant's compact size, cockscomb is a good option for adding bursts of color on patios or in container gardens. Just be sure the pot has good drainage holes to prevent an accumulation of too much moisture.
These plants should not need repotting very often, and it is best to avoid it. Cockscomb does not handle transplanting or changes in its environment very well, so leaving it in its pot unless absolutely necessary will spare this plant from additional stress. If you must repot, gently remove the plant and try not to disturb the root system. Place in a large pot and fill it in with rich, well-draining potting soil, not garden soil, as potting soil drains better. Be sure to bury the plant at the same depth as before.
Overwintering
The cockscomb cannot handle cold temperatures and is kept as an annual in areas with cold winters. If kept in a container, cockscomb can be brought indoors during the winter if it is provided with enough light. For areas with warm winters, no extra care is required for outdoor plants as cockscomb thrives in warm temperatures.
Botanical Name Celosia argentea var. cristata
Common Name Cockscomb
Plant Type Annual, perennial
Mature Size 12 in. tall, 12 in. wide
Sun Exposure Full, partial
Soil Type Loamy, moist but well-drained
Soil pH Acidic, neutral
Bloom Time Summer, fall
Flower Color Red, pink, orange, yellow, white
Hardiness Zones 9-12, USA
Native Area South America, Central America, Asia, Africa
Cockscomb Care
Cockscomb is a great, low-maintenance plant that offers a huge burst of color in the garden. It thrives in warm temperatures but can still be used as an annual in areas with cold winters. Place this plant in an area with lots of sunshine and rich, moist, well-draining soil.
To encourage more flowers to bloom, deadhead the spent blooms throughout its growing season. If allowed to go to seed, these plants will readily reseed themselves, producing plenty of flowers the following year. To prevent this, simply trim away spent blooms before they go to seed. Cockscomb is resistant to pests and most diseases, though fungal diseases can be an issue.
Light
Full sun will encourage plentiful growth of cockscomb. These plants can tolerate some shade, but shaded areas can harbor too much moisture and contribute to fungus or rot. At least 8 hours of direct sunlight will keep these plants healthy.
Soil
Cockscomb thrives in rich, nutrient-dense soil conditions and prefers neutral to slightly acidic pH levels. Well-draining soil is essential since it helps to ward off issues with fungal diseases.
Water
A regular watering schedule will keep these plants healthy, as they prefer evenly moist soil. However, be sure not to overwater. To avoid this, water once the top inch or two of the soil feels dry. Water at the base of the plant to avoid getting the leaves wet.
Temperature and Humidity
Cockscomb thrives in warm climates but can still be planted as an annual in areas with cold winters. In zones 9-11, it can be kept as a perennial. This plant can withstand both low and high humidity levels.
Fertilizer
Before planting a cockscomb plant, amend the soil with compost. This will enrich the soil with needed nutrients as well as help the soil drain excess water. During its growing season, apply liquid fertilizer monthly to support blooming.
Propagating Cockscomb
Propagate cockscomb by means of cuttings:
Using clean garden snips, cut a stem that is at least a few inches tall.
Remove the bottom sets of leaves, making sure the cutting has around two sets of healthy leaves near its tip.
Dip stem in rooting hormone to help ensure root development.
Plant the cutting into well-draining soil in a pot. Cuttings should root in 3 or 4 weeks. Tug on the plant gently--if you feel resistance, it has rooted. Transplant in the garden after hardening off, if you've grown the cutting inside.
How to Grow Cockscomb from Seed
When growing cockscomb from seeds, be sure to start the seeds around 8 to 10 weeks before your last frost date for planting. For cold climates where this plant grows as an annual, seed starting will need to be done indoors. For warm climates, this can be done directly in the garden. Here’s how:
Very gently press the seeds into warm, moist, well-draining soil. The seeds need light to germinate, so don't cover with soil.
Keep the soil moist. A plastic cover may be used to retain moisture. If so, air out the plants daily and mist the soil. Seedlings should appear in one to two weeks.
Once seedlings appear, remove the plastic cover. Be sure the seedlings are in an area with abundant light. If kept indoors, they may require a grow light. Seedlings need 12 to 16 hours of light.
Once the seedlings begin producing leaves true leaves (not the cotyledon, or first "seed" leaves), thin out each plant to one per pot. If in the garden, thin them out to around 10 inches apart.
Once indoor seedlings are around a month old and have several sets of strong leaves, harden them off. Hardening off slowly and correctly is important, as changing conditions can stunt this plant’s growth. Make sure outdoor conditions are warm, and there's no chance of frost.
Plant your seedling in their permanent location, keeping the soil line at the same height. Burying them too deeply can cause stem rot, while not burying deep enough can cause the plants to dry out.
Potting and Repotting Cockscomb
Because of this plant's compact size, cockscomb is a good option for adding bursts of color on patios or in container gardens. Just be sure the pot has good drainage holes to prevent an accumulation of too much moisture.
These plants should not need repotting very often, and it is best to avoid it. Cockscomb does not handle transplanting or changes in its environment very well, so leaving it in its pot unless absolutely necessary will spare this plant from additional stress. If you must repot, gently remove the plant and try not to disturb the root system. Place in a large pot and fill it in with rich, well-draining potting soil, not garden soil, as potting soil drains better. Be sure to bury the plant at the same depth as before.
Overwintering
The cockscomb cannot handle cold temperatures and is kept as an annual in areas with cold winters. If kept in a container, cockscomb can be brought indoors during the winter if it is provided with enough light. For areas with warm winters, no extra care is required for outdoor plants as cockscomb thrives in warm temperatures.
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文章
Miss Chen
2022年04月01日
Gardeners deemed Rehmannia elata to be 'Chinese foxglove' because the tubular flowers bear a resemblance to digitalis, the foxglove plant. The two plants, however, are actually unrelated. With fast-growing, small Chinese foxglove, spikes of dangling, bell-shaped, rose-pink blossoms poke up from scalloped, glossy green leaves. Unlike traditional foxglove, however, Chinese foxglove petals of the bell-lip flare open and outward.
Spring-planted seeds may not bloom the first year, but to get around this frustration, you can plant the seeds in the fall for gorgeous flowers the following summer. Although Chinese foxglove is not as hardy as its lookalike, digitalis, it is more versatile, growing well in shade and is even fairly drought-tolerant.
Botanical Name Rehmannia elata
Common Name Chinese foxglove
Plant Type Herbaceous perennial
Mature Size 2-3 ft. wide, 1.5-3 ft. wide
Sun Exposure Full sun, partial shade
Soil Type Well-draining, rich soil
Soil pH 6.5-7
Bloom Time Summer, fall
Flower Color Pink, purple
Hardiness Zones 7-10
Native Area China
Toxicity Toxic to humans and animals
Chinese Foxglove Care
The prolific blooms are long-lasting and will repeat bloom for three to four months, unlike traditional foxglove. The plants might flop over as the older blooms make way for younger blossoms, so you can stake them to keep them upright if desired.
Chinese foxgloves help to light up shade gardens and that is where they grow happiest. They begin blooming as spring woodland flowers fade. They provide a nice accent to hosta, and the glossy leaves and nodding blossoms contrast well with astilbe. Because the plants can be fairly wide, give them some space when planting in a garden. Chinese foxglove can become invasive in certain areas, particularly when grown in moist, rich soil. If your plant starts to become aggressive, cut back on either food or water, to stress the plants and slow their growth.
Light
You can grow Chinese foxglove in full sun to partial shade. Although the plant prefers sun, they will still flower quite well in shade and can even handle dry shade. In full sun, they will need extra water during hot spells.
Soil
Chinese foxglove are not particular about soil pH, although they do best in a neutral pH of about 6.5-7.0. However, they do need well-draining soil: The roots will rot in soil that remains wet for extended periods. Poor-draining soil can also cause problems during the colder, winter months.
Water
For best results, water daily by using a soaker hose or drip irrigation, especially during the first year. Once established, Chinese foxglove has good drought-tolerance, but mostly in the shade. The plant can tolerate being watered just once a week, but the flowers won't be as prolific as if it is watered every day.
Temperature and Humidity
Chinese foxgloves are only hardy in USDA hardiness zones 7-10, though they grow as a perennial in zones 8-10. In zone 7, it's unpredictable and is more likely to grow as an annual.
Fertilizer
A side dressing with compost or monthly feedings will also help promote flowering. Feed the plant with liquid fertilizer during the summer months to keep the blooms growing.
Pruning
Chinese foxglove are fairly low-maintenance. Plants should be deadheaded for continual bloom.
Propagating Chinese Foxgloves
You can divide your plants in the spring, but because they spread so readily, you probably won't need to. You'll have plenty of plants and if some die out, new ones fill in.
How to Grow Chinese Foxgloves From Seed
Start Chinese foxglove seeds indoors for best results. Although they can be sown outdoors once the risk of frost has passed, the plant's small seeds can be easily overwhelmed. Sow the seeds in good potting soil in small pots, seed trays, or plug trays. Expect germination within 15-30 days, depending on temperature, and then transplant out when the plants are at least 6-inches high. You can expect the plant to bloom about 70 days after germination if conditions are right.
Overwintering
In areas colder than zone 7, you can try starting over-wintering plants indoors or grow your Chinese foxgloves in containers and move the containers to a sheltered and protected spot for winter. Make sure the containers get periodic water and allow them to drain. Lifting the container off the ground with a couple of bricks will ensure the drainage holes are not blocked by frozen ground.
In warmer climates where there will still be infrequent freezing temperatures, Chinese foxglove should be given some protection, like a thick layer of mulch, during cold winters.
Common Pests and Diseases
Although Chinese foxgloves are generally pest free, slugs and snails may munch on its leaves. Both can be treated by leaving small containers of beer around your garden.
Spring-planted seeds may not bloom the first year, but to get around this frustration, you can plant the seeds in the fall for gorgeous flowers the following summer. Although Chinese foxglove is not as hardy as its lookalike, digitalis, it is more versatile, growing well in shade and is even fairly drought-tolerant.
Botanical Name Rehmannia elata
Common Name Chinese foxglove
Plant Type Herbaceous perennial
Mature Size 2-3 ft. wide, 1.5-3 ft. wide
Sun Exposure Full sun, partial shade
Soil Type Well-draining, rich soil
Soil pH 6.5-7
Bloom Time Summer, fall
Flower Color Pink, purple
Hardiness Zones 7-10
Native Area China
Toxicity Toxic to humans and animals
Chinese Foxglove Care
The prolific blooms are long-lasting and will repeat bloom for three to four months, unlike traditional foxglove. The plants might flop over as the older blooms make way for younger blossoms, so you can stake them to keep them upright if desired.
Chinese foxgloves help to light up shade gardens and that is where they grow happiest. They begin blooming as spring woodland flowers fade. They provide a nice accent to hosta, and the glossy leaves and nodding blossoms contrast well with astilbe. Because the plants can be fairly wide, give them some space when planting in a garden. Chinese foxglove can become invasive in certain areas, particularly when grown in moist, rich soil. If your plant starts to become aggressive, cut back on either food or water, to stress the plants and slow their growth.
Light
You can grow Chinese foxglove in full sun to partial shade. Although the plant prefers sun, they will still flower quite well in shade and can even handle dry shade. In full sun, they will need extra water during hot spells.
Soil
Chinese foxglove are not particular about soil pH, although they do best in a neutral pH of about 6.5-7.0. However, they do need well-draining soil: The roots will rot in soil that remains wet for extended periods. Poor-draining soil can also cause problems during the colder, winter months.
Water
For best results, water daily by using a soaker hose or drip irrigation, especially during the first year. Once established, Chinese foxglove has good drought-tolerance, but mostly in the shade. The plant can tolerate being watered just once a week, but the flowers won't be as prolific as if it is watered every day.
Temperature and Humidity
Chinese foxgloves are only hardy in USDA hardiness zones 7-10, though they grow as a perennial in zones 8-10. In zone 7, it's unpredictable and is more likely to grow as an annual.
Fertilizer
A side dressing with compost or monthly feedings will also help promote flowering. Feed the plant with liquid fertilizer during the summer months to keep the blooms growing.
Pruning
Chinese foxglove are fairly low-maintenance. Plants should be deadheaded for continual bloom.
Propagating Chinese Foxgloves
You can divide your plants in the spring, but because they spread so readily, you probably won't need to. You'll have plenty of plants and if some die out, new ones fill in.
How to Grow Chinese Foxgloves From Seed
Start Chinese foxglove seeds indoors for best results. Although they can be sown outdoors once the risk of frost has passed, the plant's small seeds can be easily overwhelmed. Sow the seeds in good potting soil in small pots, seed trays, or plug trays. Expect germination within 15-30 days, depending on temperature, and then transplant out when the plants are at least 6-inches high. You can expect the plant to bloom about 70 days after germination if conditions are right.
Overwintering
In areas colder than zone 7, you can try starting over-wintering plants indoors or grow your Chinese foxgloves in containers and move the containers to a sheltered and protected spot for winter. Make sure the containers get periodic water and allow them to drain. Lifting the container off the ground with a couple of bricks will ensure the drainage holes are not blocked by frozen ground.
In warmer climates where there will still be infrequent freezing temperatures, Chinese foxglove should be given some protection, like a thick layer of mulch, during cold winters.
Common Pests and Diseases
Although Chinese foxgloves are generally pest free, slugs and snails may munch on its leaves. Both can be treated by leaving small containers of beer around your garden.
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文章
Miss Chen
2022年03月30日
The flowering quince (Chaenomeles speciosa) is a thorny, multi-stemmed deciduous shrub with a somewhat messy growth habit but beautiful red, orange, white, or pink flowers to go with shiny, dark green foliage. Related to roses, flowering quince has a thorny habit and easy-to-grow nature that makes it a good choice for barrier or border plantings.
The shrub is a dense mound of gray-brown spiny twigs with five-petal flowers about 2 inches in diameter. The flowers last for about 10 to 14 days and are followed by yellowish-green fruits that can be used in preserves and jellies. The oval leaves with serrated edges are a glossy dark green, growing to a maximum of about 3.5 inches. Flowering quince is typically planted in the winter months and watered consistently until the roots are established.
Botanical Name Chaenomeles speciosa
Common Names Flowering quince, Chinese flowering quince
Plant Type Deciduous shrub
Mature Size 6-10 ft. tall, 6-10 ft. wide
Sun Exposure Full
Soil Type Loamy
Soil pH Neutral to acidic
Bloom Time Late winter, early spring
Flower Color White, orange, red, or pink
Hardiness Zones 4 to 9 (USDA)
Native Area Asia
Flowering Quince Care
Most gardeners find flowering quince to be easy to grow and care for. It grows adequately in most soil types other than alkaline clay, and pruning is necessary only if you decide to shape the shrub.
Its dense, thorny growth habit makes flowering quince a good low-maintenance option where a dense, impenetrable hedge, shrub, or border is required. If you don't want the shrub to spread, then make sure to remove suckers at ground level as they appear.
With its thorny habit and relatively short bloom season, flowering quince is not a great specimen plant, but it works well planted in mass along borders or as an informal barrier hedge. In large mixed borders, it can provide an early-spring accent. The fruit from quince shrubs (especially the related C. japonica) can be used in jams and jellies. Flowering quinces are known to be plants that attract hummingbirds.
Light
Grow flowering quince shrubs in full sun. It can grow in partial sun, but the flower display will be better if the plant is exposed to full sunlight.
Soil
Plant flowering quince shrubs in well-drained loam soil for the best flowering display. An overly alkaline soil pH can lead to problems with chlorosis, so keep the soil pH slightly acidic or neutral.1
These plants can be grown in clay and sandy soils but may be less vigorous.
Water
Mulch the base of the shrubs to suppress weeds and retain soil moisture. While these are reasonably drought-tolerant shrubs once established, young plants will need to be watered at times. Water in the morning so excess moisture has time to dry before evening. Sprayed water can cause leaf spots, and leaves may drop if the foliage stays wet.
Temperature and Humidity
Maintaining an even temperature and humidity are crucial for propagating flowering quince via stem cuttings. Temperature also plays a big part in growing this plant from seeds. Once flowering quince is established, though, the plant is quite forgiving of a wide range of temperature and humidity levels. This shrub is quite cold-hardy, tolerating temperatures as low as minus 25 degrees Fahrenheit.
Fertilizer
Feed flowering quince with a slow-release, all-purpose fertilizer in early spring before new growth occurs, or apply compost as a soil amendment. Scatter the fertilizer carefully on the soil around the plant; do not let it touch the foliage, as it can scorch the leaves. Follow with a deep watering to distribute the fertilizer around the roots.
Flowering Quince Varieties
Flowering quince is a member of the rose family as evidenced by its thorny stems and flowers and leaves that resemble those of roses. It is one of the oldest of all landscape plants, having been cultivated for thousands of years in Asia.
In natural environments, the different varieties of the native species grow six to 10 feet high with a similar spread. Several cultivars of flowering quince are commonly sold at garden centers, and there are also hybrid crosses of other Chaenomeles species. These are a few of the smaller-sized varieties:
Chaenomeles x superba 'Jet Trail' grows 3 to 4 feet tall with white flowers.
Chaenomeles speciosa 'Orange Delight' has bright orange double blooms that make for a gorgeous spring display.
Double Take series: 'Scarlet Storm,' 'Orange Storm,' and 'Pink Storm' grow to 5 feet high with double flowers of scarlet, orange, or pink. They are grown in USDA hardiness zones 5 to 8. This series is deer-resistant, but they are not resistant to rabbits.
Propagating Flowering Quince
Propagating flowering quince is done through stem rooting or seeds.
Seeds: In order for seeds to germinate, they must go through stratification or a freeze and thaw cycle. You can mimic the winter cold by putting the seeds in the refrigerator for 60 to 90 days; then remove them, plant in soil, water, and cover with plastic until germination occurs. Transplant seedlings into separate containers once two sets of true leaves develop. Keep the soil moist but not damp. Continue growing the plants until they reach a height of about 12 inches, then transplant.
Cuttings: Cut several stem clippings (about 6 inches long) from the previous year's growth. The diameter of the stems should be that of a pencil. Leave the top leaves intact, but remove the rest of the leaves. Score the bottom section of each stem cutting to reveal the cambium layer beneath the bark. Dip the cutting in a rooting hormone, then embed it in a well-watered, sandy, general-purpose soil. Cover with plastic and set it in a spot with bright light but not direct sun. After a month, check to see if the cutting has rooted by gently tugging the stem. If the stem resists pulling, then it is rooting properly. Wait one more month and then transplant outdoors.
Pruning
Prune just after blooming is over since the bushes bloom on old wood. Pruning should be fairly light, but when done immediately after blooming it will stimulate new growth that makes for more profuse blooming the following spring.
Common Pests/Diseases
Flowering quince is susceptible to fungal leaf spot. Fireblight and scab can sometimes occur. Aphids can badly damage new growth but the damage is not life-threatening. Other insect pests include scale and mites. Chlorosis (yellowing of the foliage) can occur in high pH (alkaline) soils.
The shrub is a dense mound of gray-brown spiny twigs with five-petal flowers about 2 inches in diameter. The flowers last for about 10 to 14 days and are followed by yellowish-green fruits that can be used in preserves and jellies. The oval leaves with serrated edges are a glossy dark green, growing to a maximum of about 3.5 inches. Flowering quince is typically planted in the winter months and watered consistently until the roots are established.
Botanical Name Chaenomeles speciosa
Common Names Flowering quince, Chinese flowering quince
Plant Type Deciduous shrub
Mature Size 6-10 ft. tall, 6-10 ft. wide
Sun Exposure Full
Soil Type Loamy
Soil pH Neutral to acidic
Bloom Time Late winter, early spring
Flower Color White, orange, red, or pink
Hardiness Zones 4 to 9 (USDA)
Native Area Asia
Flowering Quince Care
Most gardeners find flowering quince to be easy to grow and care for. It grows adequately in most soil types other than alkaline clay, and pruning is necessary only if you decide to shape the shrub.
Its dense, thorny growth habit makes flowering quince a good low-maintenance option where a dense, impenetrable hedge, shrub, or border is required. If you don't want the shrub to spread, then make sure to remove suckers at ground level as they appear.
With its thorny habit and relatively short bloom season, flowering quince is not a great specimen plant, but it works well planted in mass along borders or as an informal barrier hedge. In large mixed borders, it can provide an early-spring accent. The fruit from quince shrubs (especially the related C. japonica) can be used in jams and jellies. Flowering quinces are known to be plants that attract hummingbirds.
Light
Grow flowering quince shrubs in full sun. It can grow in partial sun, but the flower display will be better if the plant is exposed to full sunlight.
Soil
Plant flowering quince shrubs in well-drained loam soil for the best flowering display. An overly alkaline soil pH can lead to problems with chlorosis, so keep the soil pH slightly acidic or neutral.1
These plants can be grown in clay and sandy soils but may be less vigorous.
Water
Mulch the base of the shrubs to suppress weeds and retain soil moisture. While these are reasonably drought-tolerant shrubs once established, young plants will need to be watered at times. Water in the morning so excess moisture has time to dry before evening. Sprayed water can cause leaf spots, and leaves may drop if the foliage stays wet.
Temperature and Humidity
Maintaining an even temperature and humidity are crucial for propagating flowering quince via stem cuttings. Temperature also plays a big part in growing this plant from seeds. Once flowering quince is established, though, the plant is quite forgiving of a wide range of temperature and humidity levels. This shrub is quite cold-hardy, tolerating temperatures as low as minus 25 degrees Fahrenheit.
Fertilizer
Feed flowering quince with a slow-release, all-purpose fertilizer in early spring before new growth occurs, or apply compost as a soil amendment. Scatter the fertilizer carefully on the soil around the plant; do not let it touch the foliage, as it can scorch the leaves. Follow with a deep watering to distribute the fertilizer around the roots.
Flowering Quince Varieties
Flowering quince is a member of the rose family as evidenced by its thorny stems and flowers and leaves that resemble those of roses. It is one of the oldest of all landscape plants, having been cultivated for thousands of years in Asia.
In natural environments, the different varieties of the native species grow six to 10 feet high with a similar spread. Several cultivars of flowering quince are commonly sold at garden centers, and there are also hybrid crosses of other Chaenomeles species. These are a few of the smaller-sized varieties:
Chaenomeles x superba 'Jet Trail' grows 3 to 4 feet tall with white flowers.
Chaenomeles speciosa 'Orange Delight' has bright orange double blooms that make for a gorgeous spring display.
Double Take series: 'Scarlet Storm,' 'Orange Storm,' and 'Pink Storm' grow to 5 feet high with double flowers of scarlet, orange, or pink. They are grown in USDA hardiness zones 5 to 8. This series is deer-resistant, but they are not resistant to rabbits.
Propagating Flowering Quince
Propagating flowering quince is done through stem rooting or seeds.
Seeds: In order for seeds to germinate, they must go through stratification or a freeze and thaw cycle. You can mimic the winter cold by putting the seeds in the refrigerator for 60 to 90 days; then remove them, plant in soil, water, and cover with plastic until germination occurs. Transplant seedlings into separate containers once two sets of true leaves develop. Keep the soil moist but not damp. Continue growing the plants until they reach a height of about 12 inches, then transplant.
Cuttings: Cut several stem clippings (about 6 inches long) from the previous year's growth. The diameter of the stems should be that of a pencil. Leave the top leaves intact, but remove the rest of the leaves. Score the bottom section of each stem cutting to reveal the cambium layer beneath the bark. Dip the cutting in a rooting hormone, then embed it in a well-watered, sandy, general-purpose soil. Cover with plastic and set it in a spot with bright light but not direct sun. After a month, check to see if the cutting has rooted by gently tugging the stem. If the stem resists pulling, then it is rooting properly. Wait one more month and then transplant outdoors.
Pruning
Prune just after blooming is over since the bushes bloom on old wood. Pruning should be fairly light, but when done immediately after blooming it will stimulate new growth that makes for more profuse blooming the following spring.
Common Pests/Diseases
Flowering quince is susceptible to fungal leaf spot. Fireblight and scab can sometimes occur. Aphids can badly damage new growth but the damage is not life-threatening. Other insect pests include scale and mites. Chlorosis (yellowing of the foliage) can occur in high pH (alkaline) soils.
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文章
Miss Chen
2022年03月26日
Chinese evergreen is an attractive decorative plant native to Asia with several interesting varietals. They all have large, narrow, and glossy oval leaves on short stems, and flowers (on older plants) that bloom in spring or summer. The Chinese evergreen is one of the most popular houseplants and its color variations—from dark green and silver to red—add personality to your home's decor. Chinese evergreens are slow-growing and make excellent indoor foliage plants that can be potted and cared for year-round. Take care if you have pets because the plant is toxic to dogs and cats.1
Common Name Chinese evergreen, Philippine evergreen
Botanical Name Aglaonema commutatum
Family Araceae
Plant Type Herbaceous perennial
Mature Size 1–2 ft. tall, 1–2 ft. wide
Sun Exposure Partial shade, full shade
Soil Type Peaty, well-drained
Soil pH Acidic
Bloom Time Spring, summer
Flower Color White
Hardiness Zones 10–12 (USDA)
Native Area Asia
Toxicity Toxic to dogs and cats
Chinese Evergreen Care
If you're looking for a beautiful, easy-to-care-for houseplant, a Chinese evergreen may be the way to go. Beloved for its (nearly) hands-free care, the plant is simple to nurture, provided you follow one simple rule: The lighter the variegation on the plant's leaves, the more sunlight it will need. Once you understand how that applies to your specific Chinese evergreen, you should have no problem helping it thrive. Beyond that, keep your plant warm and moist, and you'll be rewarded with a long-lasting, stable houseplant that will not outgrow its pot anytime soon.
Light
Darker green varieties of Chinese evergreens can grow in near-shade, while the variegated varieties require a bit more bright light. Take care not to expose any of the plants (no matter the variety) to direct sunlight, as the harsh rays can easily burn the delicate leaves.
Soil
Ultimately, the Chinese evergreen isn't particularly picky when it comes to the soil it's planted in. Typically, a well-drained, slightly acidic potting soil is perfect for the plant. If you find that your chosen soil is retaining too much water, try mixing in sand or perlite to aid in drainage. You should also make sure to plant your Chinese evergreen in a pot with ample drainage holes at its base.
Water
The Chinese evergreen plant thrives in moist but not water-logged soil. To achieve this balance, water your plant thoroughly, then allow it to dry out before watering again. You can maintain this cadence through the spring, summer, and fall, tapering off in the winter (but never letting the plant dry out completely).
Temperature and Humidity
These plants do not like cold drafts or temperatures below 65 degrees Fahrenheit. Be sure to keep your Chinese evergreen away from windows or vents that blast in cool temperatures—the warmer the spot you can find, the better.
Due to its high humidity requirements, some growers consider Chinese evergreen to be a greenhouse plant. It will do best in the warm, humid, and bright environment of a greenhouse, but it can be successfully grown indoors by coming as close as possible to these conditions. To increase the humidity levels around your plant, mist it frequently, and consider placing it in a humidity-prone area of your home, like your kitchen or bathroom. If your home is particularly dry, you can invest in a small space humidifier to put near your plant.
Fertilizer
For best results, feed your Chinese evergreen with slow-release pellets or liquid fertilizer twice a year, at the beginning and end of its growing season.
Propagating Chinese Evergreen
Chinese evergreens can be propagated using stem cuttings or by dividing the plants during repotting. Wait until the middle of the summer when the weather is warmest to propagate Chinese evergreen.
To propagate with stem cuttings:
Use a disinfected, sharp cutting tool to take a stem from the mother plant that's several inches long.
Dip the bottom end in root hormone and put the cutting in a glass of water placed in indirect sunlight. Roots should form in three to four weeks.
Carefully and gently transfer your cutting to a pot filled with well-draining potting soil and keep moist.
To propagate by division:
Lay the pot carefully on its side. Use a trowel to loosen the soil on the sides of the container. Gently take the plant and soil out of the pot.
Lightly shake the dirt from the roots. Carefully tease apart the roots (this plant likes to be a bit root bound so move slowly) to separate a clump for repotting.
Repot the clump in a pot filled with well-draining potting soil.
Keep both the original plant and the divided plant a bit extra moist for a few weeks until they are both established and less stressed.
Common Pests and Plant Diseases
While not terribly susceptible to pests or diseases, the Chinese evergreen can occasionally pick up a common houseplant issue like scale, mealybugs, or spider mites. These can be treated with an insecticide or neem oil.
Most other issues arise because the plant is kept too moist, and fungal problems (and root rot) are typical of an over-watered Chinese evergreen.
Common Problems With Chinese Evergreen
There's really one problem that you may find with the otherwise hardy and easy-going Chinese evergreen houseplant: curling or wavy leaves. Once the problem is solved, the plant should recover. Besides the common pests already mentioned, here are a few reasons why your plant's leaves may do this:
Age: This is a normal occurrence in an older plant. Just remove the affected leaf.
Too much light: Direct sunlight can cause leaf scorch. Remove burned leaves and move the plant to a bright area that is not in direct sunlight.
Temperature changes: The plant prefers warm, draft-free spots.
Low humidity: You may need to increase the humidity in the air around your plant with misting.
Underwatering: Overly dry soil will affect the leaves. Slowly water the plant so the leaves can recover. Remove dry, crisp leaves.
Overwatering: These plants prefer drier to overly moist soil. Let the top inch of soil dry out before watering to prevent root rot. If the pot is larger (around 10 to 12 inches in diameter), let more of the soil dry out—about halfway down.
FAQ
Is Chinese evergreen easy to care for?
They are very easy houseplants to grow. Best of all, they don't like full sun, so they're perfect for almost any room in your home, especially if window light is a commodity.
How fast does Chinese evergreen grow?
Chinese evergreen is a slow-growing plant, which means you rarely have to worry about repotting.
What is the difference between Chinese evergreen and dieffenbachia?
Chinese evergreen and dieffenbachia are often confused because their leaves look alike though there are subtle differences. Chinese evergreens will have more of a silvery look to their variegated leaves. But the dieffenbachia's leaves may be much larger and wider than a Chinese evergreen's smaller and more oval leaves.
Common Name Chinese evergreen, Philippine evergreen
Botanical Name Aglaonema commutatum
Family Araceae
Plant Type Herbaceous perennial
Mature Size 1–2 ft. tall, 1–2 ft. wide
Sun Exposure Partial shade, full shade
Soil Type Peaty, well-drained
Soil pH Acidic
Bloom Time Spring, summer
Flower Color White
Hardiness Zones 10–12 (USDA)
Native Area Asia
Toxicity Toxic to dogs and cats
Chinese Evergreen Care
If you're looking for a beautiful, easy-to-care-for houseplant, a Chinese evergreen may be the way to go. Beloved for its (nearly) hands-free care, the plant is simple to nurture, provided you follow one simple rule: The lighter the variegation on the plant's leaves, the more sunlight it will need. Once you understand how that applies to your specific Chinese evergreen, you should have no problem helping it thrive. Beyond that, keep your plant warm and moist, and you'll be rewarded with a long-lasting, stable houseplant that will not outgrow its pot anytime soon.
Light
Darker green varieties of Chinese evergreens can grow in near-shade, while the variegated varieties require a bit more bright light. Take care not to expose any of the plants (no matter the variety) to direct sunlight, as the harsh rays can easily burn the delicate leaves.
Soil
Ultimately, the Chinese evergreen isn't particularly picky when it comes to the soil it's planted in. Typically, a well-drained, slightly acidic potting soil is perfect for the plant. If you find that your chosen soil is retaining too much water, try mixing in sand or perlite to aid in drainage. You should also make sure to plant your Chinese evergreen in a pot with ample drainage holes at its base.
Water
The Chinese evergreen plant thrives in moist but not water-logged soil. To achieve this balance, water your plant thoroughly, then allow it to dry out before watering again. You can maintain this cadence through the spring, summer, and fall, tapering off in the winter (but never letting the plant dry out completely).
Temperature and Humidity
These plants do not like cold drafts or temperatures below 65 degrees Fahrenheit. Be sure to keep your Chinese evergreen away from windows or vents that blast in cool temperatures—the warmer the spot you can find, the better.
Due to its high humidity requirements, some growers consider Chinese evergreen to be a greenhouse plant. It will do best in the warm, humid, and bright environment of a greenhouse, but it can be successfully grown indoors by coming as close as possible to these conditions. To increase the humidity levels around your plant, mist it frequently, and consider placing it in a humidity-prone area of your home, like your kitchen or bathroom. If your home is particularly dry, you can invest in a small space humidifier to put near your plant.
Fertilizer
For best results, feed your Chinese evergreen with slow-release pellets or liquid fertilizer twice a year, at the beginning and end of its growing season.
Propagating Chinese Evergreen
Chinese evergreens can be propagated using stem cuttings or by dividing the plants during repotting. Wait until the middle of the summer when the weather is warmest to propagate Chinese evergreen.
To propagate with stem cuttings:
Use a disinfected, sharp cutting tool to take a stem from the mother plant that's several inches long.
Dip the bottom end in root hormone and put the cutting in a glass of water placed in indirect sunlight. Roots should form in three to four weeks.
Carefully and gently transfer your cutting to a pot filled with well-draining potting soil and keep moist.
To propagate by division:
Lay the pot carefully on its side. Use a trowel to loosen the soil on the sides of the container. Gently take the plant and soil out of the pot.
Lightly shake the dirt from the roots. Carefully tease apart the roots (this plant likes to be a bit root bound so move slowly) to separate a clump for repotting.
Repot the clump in a pot filled with well-draining potting soil.
Keep both the original plant and the divided plant a bit extra moist for a few weeks until they are both established and less stressed.
Common Pests and Plant Diseases
While not terribly susceptible to pests or diseases, the Chinese evergreen can occasionally pick up a common houseplant issue like scale, mealybugs, or spider mites. These can be treated with an insecticide or neem oil.
Most other issues arise because the plant is kept too moist, and fungal problems (and root rot) are typical of an over-watered Chinese evergreen.
Common Problems With Chinese Evergreen
There's really one problem that you may find with the otherwise hardy and easy-going Chinese evergreen houseplant: curling or wavy leaves. Once the problem is solved, the plant should recover. Besides the common pests already mentioned, here are a few reasons why your plant's leaves may do this:
Age: This is a normal occurrence in an older plant. Just remove the affected leaf.
Too much light: Direct sunlight can cause leaf scorch. Remove burned leaves and move the plant to a bright area that is not in direct sunlight.
Temperature changes: The plant prefers warm, draft-free spots.
Low humidity: You may need to increase the humidity in the air around your plant with misting.
Underwatering: Overly dry soil will affect the leaves. Slowly water the plant so the leaves can recover. Remove dry, crisp leaves.
Overwatering: These plants prefer drier to overly moist soil. Let the top inch of soil dry out before watering to prevent root rot. If the pot is larger (around 10 to 12 inches in diameter), let more of the soil dry out—about halfway down.
FAQ
Is Chinese evergreen easy to care for?
They are very easy houseplants to grow. Best of all, they don't like full sun, so they're perfect for almost any room in your home, especially if window light is a commodity.
How fast does Chinese evergreen grow?
Chinese evergreen is a slow-growing plant, which means you rarely have to worry about repotting.
What is the difference between Chinese evergreen and dieffenbachia?
Chinese evergreen and dieffenbachia are often confused because their leaves look alike though there are subtle differences. Chinese evergreens will have more of a silvery look to their variegated leaves. But the dieffenbachia's leaves may be much larger and wider than a Chinese evergreen's smaller and more oval leaves.
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文章
Miss Chen
2022年03月24日
If you are looking for a plant that boasts dramatic, vibrant flowers, you may want to consider tropical hibiscus. The trumpet-shaped blooms are typically 3 to 8 inches in diameter with dramatic protruding stamens.
Native to Asia, tropical hibiscus plants produce flowers constantly, but each blossom only lasts one day. The shrub is fast-growing and can add up to 24 inches per year, eventually reaching heights of up 15 feet when growing under the ideal conditions. In colder climates, they are often planted as container specimens that are either replanted annually or brought indoors during the cold months. Start new plants in spring, whether in the ground or containers.
Common Name Tropical hibiscus, Chinese hibiscus, China rose
Botanical Name Hibiscus rosa-sinensis
Family Malvaceae
Plant Type Evergreen shrub
Mature Size 4–10 ft. tall, 5–8 ft. wide
Sun Exposure Full sun, partial shade
Sun Type Moist but well-drained
Soil pH Neutral to acidic
Bloom Time Summer to fall in containers; year-round outdoors in tropical climates
Flower Color White, red, pink, orange, yellow, peach, and purple
Hardiness Zones 9–11 (USDA)
Native Area Asia
Tropical Hibiscus Care
No matter where you live, there's a way for to you enjoy a hibiscus plant, at least for part of the year. In warmer climates, tropical hibiscus plants are grown as perennial garden plants and used as shrubs for hedges and screens. Meanwhile, in colder climates, they're often planted in large containers as patio or deck specimens. With dozens of colors of flowers to choose from, the plants will reward your garden and home with days and days of vibrant blooms reminiscent of a vacation in the tropics.
Light
While you may assume that a tropical plant like the hibiscus loves the sun, it's more nuanced than that. In northern climates, your hibiscus plants will probably be happiest in full sun. However, if you live somewhere that's more hot and dry, you're better off putting your plant in a location that gets partial shade.
If your outdoor plant is consistently producing hibiscus flowers, it is happy, so keep doing what you're doing. If your plant is not producing buds and flowers, try moving it into an area that has more sunlight.
Soil
If you're growing your hibiscus plant in a container, use a well-drained potting mix as the soil, preferably one formulated for tropical plants. Outdoors, your soil should have lots of organic matter. The soil in both grow locations should be well-draining, to help avoid the risk of root rot.
Water
Tropical hibiscus is a thirsty plant and will thrive and produce blossoms only if it is given enough water. Depending on the heat, wind, and humidity in your environment, your plant may need to be watered daily, or even twice a day in extremely dry conditions. Typically, tropical hibiscus plants thrive best with 1 to 2 inches of water per week.
Temperature and Humidity
The tropical hibiscus plant prefers average temperatures between 55 and 70 degrees Fahrenheit. The plant can be killed by even a few nights below 50 degrees Fahrenheit, so plan to move it inside if cold weather is in the forecast.
Fertilizer
When you buy a potted hibiscus, it likely has a slow-release fertilizer mixed into the soil, so it will not require additional feeding in the first few months. After that, regular feeding with a diluted fish emulsion fertilizer will keep it blooming vigorously.
Types of Tropical Hibiscus
Hibiscus rosa-sinensis 'Bonjour': This varietal constantly blooms with a mixture of red and pink flowers. It can grow 4 to 6 feet high.
Hibiscus sinensis 'Magic Moment': This plant varietal boasts 10-inch flowers in hues of peach, orange, pink, and light purple, on plants growing up to 8 feet tall.
Hibiscus rosa-sinensis 'Cajun Cocktail': This unique varietal has lovely variegated blooms that are around 6 inches wide, with no two blooms exactly alike.
Pruning
The best time for pruning tropical hibiscus is in the fall for both garden and container plants. Pruning will help keep your tropical hibiscus flowering as buds form on the new growth that has been stimulated by pruning, and removing some branches can let in some much-needed light. Give any hibiscus plants that are potted in containers a hard pruning before bringing them indoors for the winter season.
Propagating Tropical Hibiscus
Propagating tropical hibiscus using cuttings can give you the exact same plant as the parent. Propagate your tropical hibiscus from soft-stem cuttings taken in late spring or early summer after the plant has begun active growth for the season. Here's how to propagate this plant using cuttings:
Choose a stem with a greenish cast that's 4 to 6 inches long. Use a sterile, sharp cutting tool to cut the stem. Remove all but the top set of leaves from the stem.
Trim the bottom of the stem just below the bottom leaf node and dip the end in a rooting hormone.
Put the cutting in a pot of well-draining soil that's half potting soil and half perlite.
Moisten the soil and push a hole into the dirt in which you place the cutting.
Put a clear plastic bag over the plant, but make sure it does not touch the leaves. Bagging the cutting preserves moisture and retains heat while it establishes roots.
Keep the cuttings out of direct sunlight and in partial shade until they are actively growing, at which time you can repot them in a larger container.
Potting and Repotting Tropical Hibiscus
You will likely need to repot your plant every one to two years. Regular repotting helps ensure that the soil provides sufficient nutrition for the plant.
For consistent flower production in container plantings, avoid very deep containers, which can cause the plant to spend its energy on root development at the expense of producing flowers. The ideal pot shape is quite wide but relatively shallow. The best pot will be an unglazed clay material and have several draining holes (not just one). Unglazed clay pots are porous and let water and air easily flow through the plant.
Overwintering
If you live in a northern climate, it is possible to overwinter hibiscus indoors, as long as you can provide two to three hours of direct sunlight daily. Your plant will also need less water in the winter, but dry indoor heat can be hard on tropical plants, so you will need frequent shallow waterings, as well as daily misting (if the air is dry).
If you see any buds form on the plant, remove them—you don't want your hibiscus to waste any energy by flowering in the winter. In the spring, cut the plant back and put it outside once the nighttime temperatures are consistently above 50 degrees Fahrenheit.
Common Pests & Plant Diseases
Tropical hibiscus is generally free of pests and diseases, but you may encounter spider mites and aphids, especially if you bring the plant indoors.1 You should also try to remove all insects currently residing on the plant using neem oil, a liquid detergent, or by spraying the plant forcefully with water.
Hibiscus plants can also develop bacterial diseases due to transmission from insects, rain, and fog—symptoms of such can include leaf wilt, dwarfing, stem rot, and distortion of leaves.2
Common Problems With Tropical Hibiscus
There will be telltale signs that your tropical hibiscus plant may not be very happy. Here are a two common issues to watch for.
Dropping Leaves
If your plant has dropping leaves, appears stressed, or hasn't been growing well, there are three main reasons:
Your plant needs to be repotted.
It's overheated from living in prolonged heat that's over 85 degrees Fahrenheit.
It's being underwatered.
Yellowing Leaves
If you're seeing yellowing leaves at the top of the plant, chances are it's not getting enough water. Likewise, if your hibiscus has yellowing leaves in the middle or toward the bottom of the plant, it's probably drowning in too much water.
FAQ
Are tropical hibiscus plants easy to care for?
Tropical hibiscus plants are relatively easy to care for as long as they get enough light and water.
Why do tropical hibiscus blooms only last a day?
It takes a lot of energy for a plant to create a beautiful hibiscus bloom. However, once the bloom fades, a new one immediately takes its place. Cooler weather may yield slightly longer blooms and newer hybrids have blooms that can last three days.
How long will tropical hibiscus live?
Many traditional varieties of tropical hibiscus can live for over 50 years, but newer hybrids have a lifespan of up to 10 years.
Native to Asia, tropical hibiscus plants produce flowers constantly, but each blossom only lasts one day. The shrub is fast-growing and can add up to 24 inches per year, eventually reaching heights of up 15 feet when growing under the ideal conditions. In colder climates, they are often planted as container specimens that are either replanted annually or brought indoors during the cold months. Start new plants in spring, whether in the ground or containers.
Common Name Tropical hibiscus, Chinese hibiscus, China rose
Botanical Name Hibiscus rosa-sinensis
Family Malvaceae
Plant Type Evergreen shrub
Mature Size 4–10 ft. tall, 5–8 ft. wide
Sun Exposure Full sun, partial shade
Sun Type Moist but well-drained
Soil pH Neutral to acidic
Bloom Time Summer to fall in containers; year-round outdoors in tropical climates
Flower Color White, red, pink, orange, yellow, peach, and purple
Hardiness Zones 9–11 (USDA)
Native Area Asia
Tropical Hibiscus Care
No matter where you live, there's a way for to you enjoy a hibiscus plant, at least for part of the year. In warmer climates, tropical hibiscus plants are grown as perennial garden plants and used as shrubs for hedges and screens. Meanwhile, in colder climates, they're often planted in large containers as patio or deck specimens. With dozens of colors of flowers to choose from, the plants will reward your garden and home with days and days of vibrant blooms reminiscent of a vacation in the tropics.
Light
While you may assume that a tropical plant like the hibiscus loves the sun, it's more nuanced than that. In northern climates, your hibiscus plants will probably be happiest in full sun. However, if you live somewhere that's more hot and dry, you're better off putting your plant in a location that gets partial shade.
If your outdoor plant is consistently producing hibiscus flowers, it is happy, so keep doing what you're doing. If your plant is not producing buds and flowers, try moving it into an area that has more sunlight.
Soil
If you're growing your hibiscus plant in a container, use a well-drained potting mix as the soil, preferably one formulated for tropical plants. Outdoors, your soil should have lots of organic matter. The soil in both grow locations should be well-draining, to help avoid the risk of root rot.
Water
Tropical hibiscus is a thirsty plant and will thrive and produce blossoms only if it is given enough water. Depending on the heat, wind, and humidity in your environment, your plant may need to be watered daily, or even twice a day in extremely dry conditions. Typically, tropical hibiscus plants thrive best with 1 to 2 inches of water per week.
Temperature and Humidity
The tropical hibiscus plant prefers average temperatures between 55 and 70 degrees Fahrenheit. The plant can be killed by even a few nights below 50 degrees Fahrenheit, so plan to move it inside if cold weather is in the forecast.
Fertilizer
When you buy a potted hibiscus, it likely has a slow-release fertilizer mixed into the soil, so it will not require additional feeding in the first few months. After that, regular feeding with a diluted fish emulsion fertilizer will keep it blooming vigorously.
Types of Tropical Hibiscus
Hibiscus rosa-sinensis 'Bonjour': This varietal constantly blooms with a mixture of red and pink flowers. It can grow 4 to 6 feet high.
Hibiscus sinensis 'Magic Moment': This plant varietal boasts 10-inch flowers in hues of peach, orange, pink, and light purple, on plants growing up to 8 feet tall.
Hibiscus rosa-sinensis 'Cajun Cocktail': This unique varietal has lovely variegated blooms that are around 6 inches wide, with no two blooms exactly alike.
Pruning
The best time for pruning tropical hibiscus is in the fall for both garden and container plants. Pruning will help keep your tropical hibiscus flowering as buds form on the new growth that has been stimulated by pruning, and removing some branches can let in some much-needed light. Give any hibiscus plants that are potted in containers a hard pruning before bringing them indoors for the winter season.
Propagating Tropical Hibiscus
Propagating tropical hibiscus using cuttings can give you the exact same plant as the parent. Propagate your tropical hibiscus from soft-stem cuttings taken in late spring or early summer after the plant has begun active growth for the season. Here's how to propagate this plant using cuttings:
Choose a stem with a greenish cast that's 4 to 6 inches long. Use a sterile, sharp cutting tool to cut the stem. Remove all but the top set of leaves from the stem.
Trim the bottom of the stem just below the bottom leaf node and dip the end in a rooting hormone.
Put the cutting in a pot of well-draining soil that's half potting soil and half perlite.
Moisten the soil and push a hole into the dirt in which you place the cutting.
Put a clear plastic bag over the plant, but make sure it does not touch the leaves. Bagging the cutting preserves moisture and retains heat while it establishes roots.
Keep the cuttings out of direct sunlight and in partial shade until they are actively growing, at which time you can repot them in a larger container.
Potting and Repotting Tropical Hibiscus
You will likely need to repot your plant every one to two years. Regular repotting helps ensure that the soil provides sufficient nutrition for the plant.
For consistent flower production in container plantings, avoid very deep containers, which can cause the plant to spend its energy on root development at the expense of producing flowers. The ideal pot shape is quite wide but relatively shallow. The best pot will be an unglazed clay material and have several draining holes (not just one). Unglazed clay pots are porous and let water and air easily flow through the plant.
Overwintering
If you live in a northern climate, it is possible to overwinter hibiscus indoors, as long as you can provide two to three hours of direct sunlight daily. Your plant will also need less water in the winter, but dry indoor heat can be hard on tropical plants, so you will need frequent shallow waterings, as well as daily misting (if the air is dry).
If you see any buds form on the plant, remove them—you don't want your hibiscus to waste any energy by flowering in the winter. In the spring, cut the plant back and put it outside once the nighttime temperatures are consistently above 50 degrees Fahrenheit.
Common Pests & Plant Diseases
Tropical hibiscus is generally free of pests and diseases, but you may encounter spider mites and aphids, especially if you bring the plant indoors.1 You should also try to remove all insects currently residing on the plant using neem oil, a liquid detergent, or by spraying the plant forcefully with water.
Hibiscus plants can also develop bacterial diseases due to transmission from insects, rain, and fog—symptoms of such can include leaf wilt, dwarfing, stem rot, and distortion of leaves.2
Common Problems With Tropical Hibiscus
There will be telltale signs that your tropical hibiscus plant may not be very happy. Here are a two common issues to watch for.
Dropping Leaves
If your plant has dropping leaves, appears stressed, or hasn't been growing well, there are three main reasons:
Your plant needs to be repotted.
It's overheated from living in prolonged heat that's over 85 degrees Fahrenheit.
It's being underwatered.
Yellowing Leaves
If you're seeing yellowing leaves at the top of the plant, chances are it's not getting enough water. Likewise, if your hibiscus has yellowing leaves in the middle or toward the bottom of the plant, it's probably drowning in too much water.
FAQ
Are tropical hibiscus plants easy to care for?
Tropical hibiscus plants are relatively easy to care for as long as they get enough light and water.
Why do tropical hibiscus blooms only last a day?
It takes a lot of energy for a plant to create a beautiful hibiscus bloom. However, once the bloom fades, a new one immediately takes its place. Cooler weather may yield slightly longer blooms and newer hybrids have blooms that can last three days.
How long will tropical hibiscus live?
Many traditional varieties of tropical hibiscus can live for over 50 years, but newer hybrids have a lifespan of up to 10 years.
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0
文章
Miss Chen
2022年02月23日
The gloriosa lily is not a true lily, but it has lily-like flowers and this is how it got its common name. This plant belongs to the same family as autumn crocuses, Colchicaceae, but it does not look like a crocus either—it is a slender, tall vine that grows up to eight feet tall.
In the spring, the gloriosa lily sends out tall stems from its thick, tuberous roots. The stems grow quickly and from mid-summer to fall develop flowers that can be nodding or opening upwards. After the bloom, the stems die back.
Two words of caution about this plant. Firstly, the tubers spread vigorously and in Australia and several Pacific islands, gloriosa lily is classified as invasive. While it has not been classified as invasive by any US state, it has escaped cultivation in several areas. Due to its highly invasive potential, it is recommended to grow gloriosa lily in pots only.
Botanical Name Gloriosa superba
Common Name Gloriosa lily, glory lily, fire lily, flame lily, climbing lily, creeping lily, cat’s claw, tiger’s claw
Plant Type Perennial
Mature Size Six to eight feet height, one to three feet width
Sun Exposure Full sun, partial shade
Soil Type Sandy, loamy
Soil pH 5.8 to 6.5
Bloom Time Mid-summer to fall
Flower Color Red, orange, yellow, pink
Hardiness Zones 8-12, USA
Native Area Tropical and sub-Saharan Africa, Indian subcontinent, southern China and southeast tropical Asia
Toxicity Toxic to humans and animals
Gloriosa Lily Care
As a native of subtropical and tropical areas in Africa and Asia, Gloriosa lily is not frost-resistant and can only be grown as a perennial in a warm climate. In a cool climate zone, you can still grow it as a summer annual. Just dig the tubers out in the fall before the first frost and overwinter them indoors, then replant them in the spring.
When the stalks start growing in the spring, have the support in place, such as a light wire trellis, so the leaf tendrils have something to latch onto.
Light
Gloriosa lily grows in full sun to partial shade. Especially in hot, dry climates, it does better with some protection from the hot afternoon sun, such as dappled shade from nearby taller plants.
Soil
The soil should be rich and provide excellent drainage. Sandy or loamy types will work best. To enrich the soil, amend it with organic matter.
Gloriosa lily grows well in neutral to slightly acidic soil.
Water
Gloriosa lily needs even moisture during the growing season from spring to fall. In the absence of rain, water it regularly while making sure there is good drainage, so the plant never sits in soggy, wet soil.
Temperature and Humidity
Gloriosa lily grows in elevations up to 2,000 feet, where the daytime temperature is moderate, around 70 degrees, and nights are cool, around 60 degrees F. It does not do well in hot, arid climates.
In high humidity, on the other hand, gloriosa lily is in its element—think monsoon season in its native habitat.
Fertilizer
Fertilize gloriosa lily about once a month with a diluted complete fertilizer during the growing season, less frequently when the soil is very rich. Too much fertilizer will not necessarily lead to a better bloom and can instead encourage the growth of foliage.
Propagating Gloriosa Lily
Gloriosa lily is grown from tubers, which remain dormant during the winter. Store the tubers in a dry, cool, frost-free location until you are ready to plant in the spring when the danger of frost is past. The growth will be slow at first and pick up as the weather gets warmer.
Gloriosa lily can be divided every three years at the maximum.
Varieties of Gloriosa Lily
There are several cultivars of gloriosa lily with different colored flowers ranging from yellow to golden, orange, red or pink. One of the most popular cultivars is ‘Rothschildiana’ with bright red flowers and yellow margins.
Growing Gloriosa Lily in Containers
Growing gloriosa lily in containers is a good idea for several reasons. First, it’s the only way you can grow it in a cool climate with subzero winters. Second, you avoid the risk that it will spread uncontrolled and become invasive. And lastly, the tubers are very brittle and break easily so the less you are handling them the better (and because of their toxicity, handling them requires special precautions).
Therefore, the best option is to plant the tubers in containers where you leave them year-round. In containers, they will need more frequent watering and a sunny patio is usually too hot for the plant. Alternatively, you can bury the containers in garden soil and dig them out again in the fall before the first frost.
Common Pests/Diseases
Gloriosa lily can be affected by aphids, anthracnose, the cucumber mosaic virus and other viruses, as well as root rot.
Leaves that turn dry and pale are not a disease but a sign of too much sun exposure.
In the spring, the gloriosa lily sends out tall stems from its thick, tuberous roots. The stems grow quickly and from mid-summer to fall develop flowers that can be nodding or opening upwards. After the bloom, the stems die back.
Two words of caution about this plant. Firstly, the tubers spread vigorously and in Australia and several Pacific islands, gloriosa lily is classified as invasive. While it has not been classified as invasive by any US state, it has escaped cultivation in several areas. Due to its highly invasive potential, it is recommended to grow gloriosa lily in pots only.
Botanical Name Gloriosa superba
Common Name Gloriosa lily, glory lily, fire lily, flame lily, climbing lily, creeping lily, cat’s claw, tiger’s claw
Plant Type Perennial
Mature Size Six to eight feet height, one to three feet width
Sun Exposure Full sun, partial shade
Soil Type Sandy, loamy
Soil pH 5.8 to 6.5
Bloom Time Mid-summer to fall
Flower Color Red, orange, yellow, pink
Hardiness Zones 8-12, USA
Native Area Tropical and sub-Saharan Africa, Indian subcontinent, southern China and southeast tropical Asia
Toxicity Toxic to humans and animals
Gloriosa Lily Care
As a native of subtropical and tropical areas in Africa and Asia, Gloriosa lily is not frost-resistant and can only be grown as a perennial in a warm climate. In a cool climate zone, you can still grow it as a summer annual. Just dig the tubers out in the fall before the first frost and overwinter them indoors, then replant them in the spring.
When the stalks start growing in the spring, have the support in place, such as a light wire trellis, so the leaf tendrils have something to latch onto.
Light
Gloriosa lily grows in full sun to partial shade. Especially in hot, dry climates, it does better with some protection from the hot afternoon sun, such as dappled shade from nearby taller plants.
Soil
The soil should be rich and provide excellent drainage. Sandy or loamy types will work best. To enrich the soil, amend it with organic matter.
Gloriosa lily grows well in neutral to slightly acidic soil.
Water
Gloriosa lily needs even moisture during the growing season from spring to fall. In the absence of rain, water it regularly while making sure there is good drainage, so the plant never sits in soggy, wet soil.
Temperature and Humidity
Gloriosa lily grows in elevations up to 2,000 feet, where the daytime temperature is moderate, around 70 degrees, and nights are cool, around 60 degrees F. It does not do well in hot, arid climates.
In high humidity, on the other hand, gloriosa lily is in its element—think monsoon season in its native habitat.
Fertilizer
Fertilize gloriosa lily about once a month with a diluted complete fertilizer during the growing season, less frequently when the soil is very rich. Too much fertilizer will not necessarily lead to a better bloom and can instead encourage the growth of foliage.
Propagating Gloriosa Lily
Gloriosa lily is grown from tubers, which remain dormant during the winter. Store the tubers in a dry, cool, frost-free location until you are ready to plant in the spring when the danger of frost is past. The growth will be slow at first and pick up as the weather gets warmer.
Gloriosa lily can be divided every three years at the maximum.
Varieties of Gloriosa Lily
There are several cultivars of gloriosa lily with different colored flowers ranging from yellow to golden, orange, red or pink. One of the most popular cultivars is ‘Rothschildiana’ with bright red flowers and yellow margins.
Growing Gloriosa Lily in Containers
Growing gloriosa lily in containers is a good idea for several reasons. First, it’s the only way you can grow it in a cool climate with subzero winters. Second, you avoid the risk that it will spread uncontrolled and become invasive. And lastly, the tubers are very brittle and break easily so the less you are handling them the better (and because of their toxicity, handling them requires special precautions).
Therefore, the best option is to plant the tubers in containers where you leave them year-round. In containers, they will need more frequent watering and a sunny patio is usually too hot for the plant. Alternatively, you can bury the containers in garden soil and dig them out again in the fall before the first frost.
Common Pests/Diseases
Gloriosa lily can be affected by aphids, anthracnose, the cucumber mosaic virus and other viruses, as well as root rot.
Leaves that turn dry and pale are not a disease but a sign of too much sun exposure.
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文章
Miss Chen
2022年02月15日
Carrots are biennial vegetables, though they are typically harvested in their first year of growth, before they overwinter, and set flowers the following year. Carrot foliage is finely dissected, with fern-like compound leaves. Carrot flowers have five petals and sepals, and are born in compound umbels. Most roots are about 1 inch in diameter and anywhere from one inch to more than 12 inches long. Carrots are best known for long, orange roots, but they actually come in several colors and shapes.
Plant in the spring and seeds will germinate in 10 to 21 days. From seed to harvest typically takes 50 to 75 days.
Common Name Carrot
Botanical Name Daucus carota
Family Apiaceae
Plant Type Vegetable
Size 6-in. root, 1-ft foliage height; 9-in. spread
Sun Exposure Full sun to part shade
Soil Type Loose, well-draining soil
Soil pH Slightly acidic (6.0–6.8)
Bloom Time Spring (second growing season)
Hardiness Zones 3–10 (biennial grown as an annual)
Native Area Europe, Southwestern Asia
How to Plant Carrots
When to Plant
Carrots grow well in cool weather. You can begin planting carrot seedlings or sowing carrot seeds as soon as the soil can be worked in the spring, even two to three weeks before the last frost. You can succession plant carrots every couple of weeks throughout the spring. In warmer climates, you may have better luck growing carrots in the fall, through the winter.
Selecting a Site
Carrots will do well in a spot that's sunny six to eight hours a day or with a little shade. The soil should be loose, sandy, and well-drained because carrots will mature very slowly with rough roots if they are forced to grow in heavy soil. Growing carrots in raised beds with fluffy soil is the ideal situation.
Spacing, Depth, and Support
Correctly spacing carrots is most important to harvesting a healthy crop, but it's not always easy and requires plenty of thinning. Plant seeds 1/4 inch below the surface of the soil as evenly as possible 2 to 3 inches apart. Seedlings will be fine if some of them sprout 1/2 inch apart, but as they grow, they typically require about 3 inches of space between them. Snipping or pinching the seedlings off at the soil line is the best way to avoid hurting the remaining roots. Carrots don't need support; But, they don't like to be transplanted or disturbed, either.
Carrot Care
Light
Even though the roots are growing underground, the foliage needs full sun to part shade for the carrot roots to grow quickly and develop their sugars.
Soil
Carrots need loose, well-draining soil. Rocks and clumps will cause the carrot roots to split and deform. Carrots prefer a slightly acidic soil—in the range of 6.0 to 6.8.
Water
Water your carrots with at least 1 inch of water every week. Mulching will help conserve water and keep the soil cool.
Temperature and Humidity
These biennials are typically grown as annuals in all zones and in all climates. However, they grow best and are tastiest when nighttime temperatures average about 55 degrees Fahrenheit and daytime temperatures average 75 degrees Fahrenheit. In warmer climates, carrots are sometimes planted as a late fall and winter crop.
Fertilizer
If your soil is not rich in organic matter, supplemental feeding will be necessary about two weeks after the carrot tops emerge. Any good vegetable fertilizer will do. Because they are grown for their roots, don't go overboard with nitrogen fertilizer, which mostly aids foliage growth
Types of Carrots
There is a seemingly endless number of carrot varieties in an array of sizes and colors. Some notable varieties to try include:
'Danver's Half Long': early, sweet, and easy growing
'Imperator': a long variety that keeps its sweetness and crunch in storage
'Little Finger': a sweet three-inch "baby" carrot
'Paris Market'/'Thumbelina': plump, round, and bite-sized
Carrots vs. Parsnips
Carrots can often be confused with parsnips. That's because not all carrots are orange, and many types of carrots and parsnips are the same color and shape. Carrots and parsnips (Pastinaca sativa) also share the same family. The biggest difference between the two is their taste; Carrots are sweet and parsnips have a spicy bite. Often they are both used in the same recipe to bring full flavor to a dish.
Harvesting Carrots
Growing carrots (Daucus carota)—or any root vegetable, for that matter—can be a bit of a gamble since you can't see how well they're doing until you harvest. When to harvest your carrots will depend on the variety you are growing, but the average is about 50 to 75 days from seed.
Use the days to harvest on your seed packet as a guide for knowing when to start picking. Test to see if the tops of your carrot plants have filled out to the expected diameter by feeling just below the soil line. The only true test is to lift one of the carrots and taste it.
Don't try and harvest too soon, thinking you will get sweet baby carrots. Small carrots in the store are either a particular variety that matures small or large carrots that have been ground down to baby-size. Immature carrots will be bland because they have not had time to develop their full sweetness.
If your soil is very soft, you can twist and pull the carrots from the soil. To be on the safe side, it is wise to loosen the soil slightly before harvesting, making sure not to stab the carrots in the process. Remove the leaves immediately after harvesting. The leaves will continue to take energy and moisture from the roots, leaving them limp, and lessening the sweetness of your carrots.
How to Grow Carrots in Pots
Carrots require loose well-drained soil. They will fork and deform if they meet with the slightest resistance, such as a rock or hard soil in the garden. If you can't provide loose soil in your vegetable garden, consider growing carrots in a container using potting soil premixed especially for potted vegetables. The shorter finger-types or small round carrots, like 'Paris Market', or other types with roots that grow and mature to 2 to 3 inches long, are ideal for containers.
Make sure your container (any material is fine) is at least 12 to 24 inches in diameter, at least 12 inches deep, and with plenty of drainage holes. Container carrots will require more water than crops in the ground; Water the container deeply once a week.
Pruning
To prevent deformed roots, keep the area free of weeds as the carrots are growing. If you need to thin again later, you can use the tiny carrots in salads. When you've finished thinning, your carrots should be far enough apart that they won't rub shoulders when mature.
How to Plant Carrots From Seed
Carrots can be planted from nursery-grown seedlings, but the more common method is to plant seeds directly into the garden, beginning as soon as the soil is workable in the spring. But, carrot seeds are tiny, making it difficult to plant them evenly. They may take as long as three weeks to sprout.
Till the soil at least a foot deep to make sure it is light and can drain extremely well.
Sprinkle the seeds in a row 2 to 3 inches apart, 1/4 inch deep, and keep rows a foot apart from each other. It's tough to space carrot seeds evenly, so you will likely need to thin them out as they grow.
Give seeds 1 inch of water a week.
When the seedlings are 1 to 2 inches tall, make sure they are thinned out to a spacing of 3 inches apart.
Overwintering
You can leave carrot plants in place over the winter. Make sure you thoroughly weed the area before the first frost. Heavily mulch the area with about 3 inches of straw or leaves. The carrot tops will die but the roots will continue gathering their sugar to survive the cold weather. Even if left in the ground into winter, the roots can still be quite delicious. Harvest these carrots before the early spring arrives or they will flower.
Common Pests and Plant Diseases
The biggest pest is the carrot rust fly. It lays its eggs in the soil near the carrot top. When the eggs hatch, the larvae work their way down into the soil and then into the carrot's roots, where they feed and create tunnels through the carrot. Carrot weevils can do similar damage. You can foil some pests by rotating where you plant each year, but the easiest method is to grow your carrots under row covers (garden fabric).
Nematodes, microscopic worms, can become a problem later in the season, causing badly deformed roots. Heating the soil through solarization can kill nematodes. If you are struggling with carrot nematodes in a particular spot, rotate to another crop and plant carrots elsewhere.
Even if they don't notice the roots growing below the soil surface, there are plenty of animals that will want to eat the tops of your carrots and a few that will dig deeper. Deer, groundhogs, rabbits, opossum, and several others will need to be kept out of the garden—fencing is really the only effective method.
A handful of leaf spot and bacterial diseases can affect carrots, like Alternaria leaf blight, carrot yellows, and bacterial soft rot. There is not much you can do once the plants are infected. Keep a close watch and remove any plants showing signs of disease. Clean up all debris at the end of the season and move your carrots to a different section of the garden next year, as the microorganisms can persist in the soil.
Plant in the spring and seeds will germinate in 10 to 21 days. From seed to harvest typically takes 50 to 75 days.
Common Name Carrot
Botanical Name Daucus carota
Family Apiaceae
Plant Type Vegetable
Size 6-in. root, 1-ft foliage height; 9-in. spread
Sun Exposure Full sun to part shade
Soil Type Loose, well-draining soil
Soil pH Slightly acidic (6.0–6.8)
Bloom Time Spring (second growing season)
Hardiness Zones 3–10 (biennial grown as an annual)
Native Area Europe, Southwestern Asia
How to Plant Carrots
When to Plant
Carrots grow well in cool weather. You can begin planting carrot seedlings or sowing carrot seeds as soon as the soil can be worked in the spring, even two to three weeks before the last frost. You can succession plant carrots every couple of weeks throughout the spring. In warmer climates, you may have better luck growing carrots in the fall, through the winter.
Selecting a Site
Carrots will do well in a spot that's sunny six to eight hours a day or with a little shade. The soil should be loose, sandy, and well-drained because carrots will mature very slowly with rough roots if they are forced to grow in heavy soil. Growing carrots in raised beds with fluffy soil is the ideal situation.
Spacing, Depth, and Support
Correctly spacing carrots is most important to harvesting a healthy crop, but it's not always easy and requires plenty of thinning. Plant seeds 1/4 inch below the surface of the soil as evenly as possible 2 to 3 inches apart. Seedlings will be fine if some of them sprout 1/2 inch apart, but as they grow, they typically require about 3 inches of space between them. Snipping or pinching the seedlings off at the soil line is the best way to avoid hurting the remaining roots. Carrots don't need support; But, they don't like to be transplanted or disturbed, either.
Carrot Care
Light
Even though the roots are growing underground, the foliage needs full sun to part shade for the carrot roots to grow quickly and develop their sugars.
Soil
Carrots need loose, well-draining soil. Rocks and clumps will cause the carrot roots to split and deform. Carrots prefer a slightly acidic soil—in the range of 6.0 to 6.8.
Water
Water your carrots with at least 1 inch of water every week. Mulching will help conserve water and keep the soil cool.
Temperature and Humidity
These biennials are typically grown as annuals in all zones and in all climates. However, they grow best and are tastiest when nighttime temperatures average about 55 degrees Fahrenheit and daytime temperatures average 75 degrees Fahrenheit. In warmer climates, carrots are sometimes planted as a late fall and winter crop.
Fertilizer
If your soil is not rich in organic matter, supplemental feeding will be necessary about two weeks after the carrot tops emerge. Any good vegetable fertilizer will do. Because they are grown for their roots, don't go overboard with nitrogen fertilizer, which mostly aids foliage growth
Types of Carrots
There is a seemingly endless number of carrot varieties in an array of sizes and colors. Some notable varieties to try include:
'Danver's Half Long': early, sweet, and easy growing
'Imperator': a long variety that keeps its sweetness and crunch in storage
'Little Finger': a sweet three-inch "baby" carrot
'Paris Market'/'Thumbelina': plump, round, and bite-sized
Carrots vs. Parsnips
Carrots can often be confused with parsnips. That's because not all carrots are orange, and many types of carrots and parsnips are the same color and shape. Carrots and parsnips (Pastinaca sativa) also share the same family. The biggest difference between the two is their taste; Carrots are sweet and parsnips have a spicy bite. Often they are both used in the same recipe to bring full flavor to a dish.
Harvesting Carrots
Growing carrots (Daucus carota)—or any root vegetable, for that matter—can be a bit of a gamble since you can't see how well they're doing until you harvest. When to harvest your carrots will depend on the variety you are growing, but the average is about 50 to 75 days from seed.
Use the days to harvest on your seed packet as a guide for knowing when to start picking. Test to see if the tops of your carrot plants have filled out to the expected diameter by feeling just below the soil line. The only true test is to lift one of the carrots and taste it.
Don't try and harvest too soon, thinking you will get sweet baby carrots. Small carrots in the store are either a particular variety that matures small or large carrots that have been ground down to baby-size. Immature carrots will be bland because they have not had time to develop their full sweetness.
If your soil is very soft, you can twist and pull the carrots from the soil. To be on the safe side, it is wise to loosen the soil slightly before harvesting, making sure not to stab the carrots in the process. Remove the leaves immediately after harvesting. The leaves will continue to take energy and moisture from the roots, leaving them limp, and lessening the sweetness of your carrots.
How to Grow Carrots in Pots
Carrots require loose well-drained soil. They will fork and deform if they meet with the slightest resistance, such as a rock or hard soil in the garden. If you can't provide loose soil in your vegetable garden, consider growing carrots in a container using potting soil premixed especially for potted vegetables. The shorter finger-types or small round carrots, like 'Paris Market', or other types with roots that grow and mature to 2 to 3 inches long, are ideal for containers.
Make sure your container (any material is fine) is at least 12 to 24 inches in diameter, at least 12 inches deep, and with plenty of drainage holes. Container carrots will require more water than crops in the ground; Water the container deeply once a week.
Pruning
To prevent deformed roots, keep the area free of weeds as the carrots are growing. If you need to thin again later, you can use the tiny carrots in salads. When you've finished thinning, your carrots should be far enough apart that they won't rub shoulders when mature.
How to Plant Carrots From Seed
Carrots can be planted from nursery-grown seedlings, but the more common method is to plant seeds directly into the garden, beginning as soon as the soil is workable in the spring. But, carrot seeds are tiny, making it difficult to plant them evenly. They may take as long as three weeks to sprout.
Till the soil at least a foot deep to make sure it is light and can drain extremely well.
Sprinkle the seeds in a row 2 to 3 inches apart, 1/4 inch deep, and keep rows a foot apart from each other. It's tough to space carrot seeds evenly, so you will likely need to thin them out as they grow.
Give seeds 1 inch of water a week.
When the seedlings are 1 to 2 inches tall, make sure they are thinned out to a spacing of 3 inches apart.
Overwintering
You can leave carrot plants in place over the winter. Make sure you thoroughly weed the area before the first frost. Heavily mulch the area with about 3 inches of straw or leaves. The carrot tops will die but the roots will continue gathering their sugar to survive the cold weather. Even if left in the ground into winter, the roots can still be quite delicious. Harvest these carrots before the early spring arrives or they will flower.
Common Pests and Plant Diseases
The biggest pest is the carrot rust fly. It lays its eggs in the soil near the carrot top. When the eggs hatch, the larvae work their way down into the soil and then into the carrot's roots, where they feed and create tunnels through the carrot. Carrot weevils can do similar damage. You can foil some pests by rotating where you plant each year, but the easiest method is to grow your carrots under row covers (garden fabric).
Nematodes, microscopic worms, can become a problem later in the season, causing badly deformed roots. Heating the soil through solarization can kill nematodes. If you are struggling with carrot nematodes in a particular spot, rotate to another crop and plant carrots elsewhere.
Even if they don't notice the roots growing below the soil surface, there are plenty of animals that will want to eat the tops of your carrots and a few that will dig deeper. Deer, groundhogs, rabbits, opossum, and several others will need to be kept out of the garden—fencing is really the only effective method.
A handful of leaf spot and bacterial diseases can affect carrots, like Alternaria leaf blight, carrot yellows, and bacterial soft rot. There is not much you can do once the plants are infected. Keep a close watch and remove any plants showing signs of disease. Clean up all debris at the end of the season and move your carrots to a different section of the garden next year, as the microorganisms can persist in the soil.
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文章
Miss Chen
2022年02月11日
Carnations, known as dianthus (Dianthus caryophyllus), are a perennial grown widely for use as cut flowers. Who among us hasn't been gifted with a carnation corsage, boutonniere, or bouquet? Carnations are a variety of dianthus, also known as pinks, because their natural color range includes many shades of pink, white, coral, and red. White carnations are frequently dyed various colors for holidays (like green for Saint Patrick's Day or pastel colors for Easter). True carnations have a ruffly appearance that holds its own in flower arrangements, and they have a distinctive, spicy, faintly clove-like scent loved by many.
The dianthus has been widely cultivated for more than two thousand years, based on its mention in ancient Greek texts. Pinning down its native locale is difficult, but some botanists theorize it originated somewhere in the Mediterranean. Dianthus translates from the Greek for "divine flower," while "carnation" is a Latin word meaning "crown" or "garland."
Botanical Name Dianthus caryophyllus
Common Name Carnation, pinks
Plant Type Flowering perennial
Mature Size 12-18 inches
Sun Exposure Full sun to partial shade
Soil Type Alkaline, fertile, well drained
Soil pH 7-8
Bloom Time late spring; reblooms
Flower Color white, pink, red
Hardiness Zones USDA 7-10
Native Areas Italy, Spain, Greece, Croatia
Carnation Care
Dianthus are fairly easy to grow and care for. Dianthus carophyllus does best in USDA hardiness Zones 7 to 10, so it is not quite as cold hardy as other dianthus varieties. Although dianthus are sometimes known as a short-lived perennial, if they have the right conditions, you can expect years of beauty and fragrance from them. They're a beautiful choice for the cottage garden with their vibrant colors and easy seasonal care. Deadheading them after first bloom helps insure re-blooming later in the season. They do best without mulch, but if you do mulch use a natural mulch instead of dyed mulches. Carnations, like all dianthus, are deer resistant, but rabbits may enjoy nibbling on the leaves.
Soil
Carnations require excellent drainage and an alkaline soil, also referred to as "sweet" soil. Alkaline soil tends to have slightly higher concentrations of calcium, magnesium, and sodium. If your soil tends to be acidic, adding a bit of lime when planting carnations will get them off to a good start.
Light
Although they do best in full sun, carnations are fine with some partial shade. Too much bright afternoon sun might cause the petals of brightly colored carnations to fade. Plant your carnations where they'll get morning sun rather than afternoon sun, if possible, to keep the flowers looking fresh and the colors bright.
Water
Dianthus carophyllus are relatively drought tolerant but they need regular water in spring when their flower buds are forming. During dry spells in summer they may need an extra drink of water. Water at the base of the plant. However, be careful not to over water, or the leaves may yellow and the flower petals may droop or fall off.
Temperature and Humidity
Carnations like a warm environment, but will wilt in extreme heat. They do best in low humidity. However, an occasional light spritz of cool water during very hot weather may help cool them down a bit.
In cats, carnation leaves can be a source of mild toxicity if ingested, causing vomiting and/or diarrhea. Depending on how much of the plant your cat has ingested, they may vomit more than once. Symptoms following vomiting may include mild dehydration or loss of appetite; these should resolve within a few hours. Make sure there is fresh water available. Carnations also contain compounds that can cause mild skin irritation, which may cause redness or swelling around the mouth area if your cat eats them. If more serious symptoms are present, or your cat is not on the mend after 8 hours, consult your veterinarian. In dogs, poisoning from carnations presents as dermatitis and digestive problems.
Carnation Varieties
There are three basic types of carnation available to the home grower: large-flowered carnations (also known as standard carnations), dwarf-flowered carnations, and spray or miniature carnations. The following cultivars are a very small sample of the thousands of varieties available.
Chabaud carnations: these large standard carnations come in a variety of cultivars including "Jeanne Dionis" (white), "Benigna" (picotee white edged with magenta), "Aurora" (range of medium to dark pink), "Orange Sherbet" (warm, deep coral), and "La France" (classic pale pink)
Spray carnation cultivars include "Elegance" (white edged pink), "Exquisite" (white edged purple), and "Rony" (scarlet red).
Some excellent smaller varieties with full double-petaled flowers include "Appleblossom Burst" (shades of pink with deep red centers), "Double Bubble" (bright bubble gum pink), "Grace Bay" (founded cream flower heads edged in magenta) and "Rosy Cheeks" (medium pink with orange centers).
How to Grow Carnations from Seed
If you want to plant carnations from seed, be sure to select cultivars suitable for your growing zone. You can start them indoors in a sunny window, six to eight weeks before the last frost date for your area. Plant them in potting soil, sprinkling seeds over the surface, and covering very lightly with soil. Keep them moist with a mist sprayer, and wrap the planting container loosely with plastic to create a greenhouse effect. Seedlings should germinate within three days. Once they form two or three leaves, put them in their own containers, and let them get at least four to five inches tall before transplanting outside, once frost danger has passed. You may also sow carnations outdoors after frost season has ended, but it's unlikely they will bloom that first year. Do this only if your growing zone is at least USDA 6, to be sure they will survive the winter as a perennial.
The dianthus has been widely cultivated for more than two thousand years, based on its mention in ancient Greek texts. Pinning down its native locale is difficult, but some botanists theorize it originated somewhere in the Mediterranean. Dianthus translates from the Greek for "divine flower," while "carnation" is a Latin word meaning "crown" or "garland."
Botanical Name Dianthus caryophyllus
Common Name Carnation, pinks
Plant Type Flowering perennial
Mature Size 12-18 inches
Sun Exposure Full sun to partial shade
Soil Type Alkaline, fertile, well drained
Soil pH 7-8
Bloom Time late spring; reblooms
Flower Color white, pink, red
Hardiness Zones USDA 7-10
Native Areas Italy, Spain, Greece, Croatia
Carnation Care
Dianthus are fairly easy to grow and care for. Dianthus carophyllus does best in USDA hardiness Zones 7 to 10, so it is not quite as cold hardy as other dianthus varieties. Although dianthus are sometimes known as a short-lived perennial, if they have the right conditions, you can expect years of beauty and fragrance from them. They're a beautiful choice for the cottage garden with their vibrant colors and easy seasonal care. Deadheading them after first bloom helps insure re-blooming later in the season. They do best without mulch, but if you do mulch use a natural mulch instead of dyed mulches. Carnations, like all dianthus, are deer resistant, but rabbits may enjoy nibbling on the leaves.
Soil
Carnations require excellent drainage and an alkaline soil, also referred to as "sweet" soil. Alkaline soil tends to have slightly higher concentrations of calcium, magnesium, and sodium. If your soil tends to be acidic, adding a bit of lime when planting carnations will get them off to a good start.
Light
Although they do best in full sun, carnations are fine with some partial shade. Too much bright afternoon sun might cause the petals of brightly colored carnations to fade. Plant your carnations where they'll get morning sun rather than afternoon sun, if possible, to keep the flowers looking fresh and the colors bright.
Water
Dianthus carophyllus are relatively drought tolerant but they need regular water in spring when their flower buds are forming. During dry spells in summer they may need an extra drink of water. Water at the base of the plant. However, be careful not to over water, or the leaves may yellow and the flower petals may droop or fall off.
Temperature and Humidity
Carnations like a warm environment, but will wilt in extreme heat. They do best in low humidity. However, an occasional light spritz of cool water during very hot weather may help cool them down a bit.
In cats, carnation leaves can be a source of mild toxicity if ingested, causing vomiting and/or diarrhea. Depending on how much of the plant your cat has ingested, they may vomit more than once. Symptoms following vomiting may include mild dehydration or loss of appetite; these should resolve within a few hours. Make sure there is fresh water available. Carnations also contain compounds that can cause mild skin irritation, which may cause redness or swelling around the mouth area if your cat eats them. If more serious symptoms are present, or your cat is not on the mend after 8 hours, consult your veterinarian. In dogs, poisoning from carnations presents as dermatitis and digestive problems.
Carnation Varieties
There are three basic types of carnation available to the home grower: large-flowered carnations (also known as standard carnations), dwarf-flowered carnations, and spray or miniature carnations. The following cultivars are a very small sample of the thousands of varieties available.
Chabaud carnations: these large standard carnations come in a variety of cultivars including "Jeanne Dionis" (white), "Benigna" (picotee white edged with magenta), "Aurora" (range of medium to dark pink), "Orange Sherbet" (warm, deep coral), and "La France" (classic pale pink)
Spray carnation cultivars include "Elegance" (white edged pink), "Exquisite" (white edged purple), and "Rony" (scarlet red).
Some excellent smaller varieties with full double-petaled flowers include "Appleblossom Burst" (shades of pink with deep red centers), "Double Bubble" (bright bubble gum pink), "Grace Bay" (founded cream flower heads edged in magenta) and "Rosy Cheeks" (medium pink with orange centers).
How to Grow Carnations from Seed
If you want to plant carnations from seed, be sure to select cultivars suitable for your growing zone. You can start them indoors in a sunny window, six to eight weeks before the last frost date for your area. Plant them in potting soil, sprinkling seeds over the surface, and covering very lightly with soil. Keep them moist with a mist sprayer, and wrap the planting container loosely with plastic to create a greenhouse effect. Seedlings should germinate within three days. Once they form two or three leaves, put them in their own containers, and let them get at least four to five inches tall before transplanting outside, once frost danger has passed. You may also sow carnations outdoors after frost season has ended, but it's unlikely they will bloom that first year. Do this only if your growing zone is at least USDA 6, to be sure they will survive the winter as a perennial.
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