文章
Miss Chen
2021年09月06日
Autumn Sage (Salvia greggii) is a native perennial shrub that blooms prolifically from mid-summer to mid-fall. During this time it will be attracting bees, birds, and butterflies. Hummingbirds are especially drawn to the flowers' typical red color.
This hummingbird magnet is a bushy shrub. The two-lipped flowers are usually red, though some offer shades of purple, pink, yellow, white, or violet. They bloom in whirls atop foliage that smells of mint and the small, downy green leaves are each about two inches long.
A versatile and lasting perennial, sometimes flowering starts with the autumn sage as early as spring and continues until the first frost. While flowering may decrease in the heat of summer, it will pick back up again in the fall.
Growing rapidly up to two to three feet tall and wide, this species mingles well in wildflower gardens or in conventional floral landscapes.
Botanical Name Salvia greggii
Common Name Autumn Sage, Cherry Sage, Gregg Salvia
Plant Type Native perennial flowering shrub
Mature Size 3 ft. tall, 3 ft. wide
Sun Exposure Full sun
Soil Type Moist; well-draining; chalk, loam, or sand
Soil pH Neutral
Bloom Time Mid-summer to mid-fall
Flower Color Pink, Rose/Mauve, Red, Yellow, White/Near White, Violet
Hardiness Zones 6-9, USDA
Native Area Mexico; North America (Southwest, specifically southern Texas and New Mexico)
Autumn Sage Care
Plant this small flowering shrub in a perennial border or as a low hedge. Welcome to beds, patios, and containers in a city or courtyard garden, a coastal garden, a gravel and rock garden, or among a more informal setting of a cottage-style flower patch.
Dig a hole twice as wide and deep as the root ball of the purchased or propagated plant. Set it in the hole and gently place soil into the hole.
Light
Select a site with full sun. Autumn Sage can benefit from a sheltered position, though, generally, it needs a lot of light.
Soil
Give the plant moderately fertile, well-drained soil.
Water
Water regularly after planting. Once established, plants require only average watering. Do not overwater; rainfall is usually enough.
Like most types of salvia, Autumn Sage does not do well with excess moisture. If the ground does not meet this need, consider planting in a container or in a xeriscape landscape.
Temperature & Humidity
Native to southern Texas, New Mexico, and Mexico, this type of salvia is tolerant to heat, humidity, and drought. Autumn Sage is generally hardy to about 15 degrees Fahrenheit (-9 Celsius). Any lower temperatures may cause damage or the plants to be completely lost. It can last as an evergreen in warmer climates.
Pruning
Cut individual stems at their main branch throughout the growing season, and prolong flowering by deadheading. Remove spent blooms at the stem. Gently pinch or pull the flower from its sepal, and toss it in the compost. Only let flowers drop on the soil if you want volunteer plants next season.
One way of pruning is shearing. This encourages new woody growth. If done once every two or three growing seasons, you will be rewarded with an exceptionally bushy plant.
Prune the shrub in its dormant months, before or after flowering, to prevent overcrowding. Cut off all the branches of the shrub down to its root, as close to the ground as possible. Do this at the end of each growing season, closer to the final flowering, to stimulate new growth.
Propagating Autumn Sage
Cuttings or transplants will produce a plant truer to its original type, as compared to seeds which may produce differences. In spring or early summer, propagate by basal cuttings or softwood cuttings. In late summer or autumn, propagate by semi-ripe cuttings. The rootball can also be divided into separate plants. Or, allow pods to dry on the plant and break them open to collect and properly clean the seeds. Sow seeds indoors before the last frost and outdoors directly after the last frost.
Common Pests/Diseases
Keep an eye out for leafhoppers, slugs and snails, and rosemary beetles. Being nearly disease-free and deer resistant, the Autumn Sage plant is overall easy to maintain. Welcome this flowering shrub into your sunny garden and watch the flowers flourish for a long growing season.
This hummingbird magnet is a bushy shrub. The two-lipped flowers are usually red, though some offer shades of purple, pink, yellow, white, or violet. They bloom in whirls atop foliage that smells of mint and the small, downy green leaves are each about two inches long.
A versatile and lasting perennial, sometimes flowering starts with the autumn sage as early as spring and continues until the first frost. While flowering may decrease in the heat of summer, it will pick back up again in the fall.
Growing rapidly up to two to three feet tall and wide, this species mingles well in wildflower gardens or in conventional floral landscapes.
Botanical Name Salvia greggii
Common Name Autumn Sage, Cherry Sage, Gregg Salvia
Plant Type Native perennial flowering shrub
Mature Size 3 ft. tall, 3 ft. wide
Sun Exposure Full sun
Soil Type Moist; well-draining; chalk, loam, or sand
Soil pH Neutral
Bloom Time Mid-summer to mid-fall
Flower Color Pink, Rose/Mauve, Red, Yellow, White/Near White, Violet
Hardiness Zones 6-9, USDA
Native Area Mexico; North America (Southwest, specifically southern Texas and New Mexico)
Autumn Sage Care
Plant this small flowering shrub in a perennial border or as a low hedge. Welcome to beds, patios, and containers in a city or courtyard garden, a coastal garden, a gravel and rock garden, or among a more informal setting of a cottage-style flower patch.
Dig a hole twice as wide and deep as the root ball of the purchased or propagated plant. Set it in the hole and gently place soil into the hole.
Light
Select a site with full sun. Autumn Sage can benefit from a sheltered position, though, generally, it needs a lot of light.
Soil
Give the plant moderately fertile, well-drained soil.
Water
Water regularly after planting. Once established, plants require only average watering. Do not overwater; rainfall is usually enough.
Like most types of salvia, Autumn Sage does not do well with excess moisture. If the ground does not meet this need, consider planting in a container or in a xeriscape landscape.
Temperature & Humidity
Native to southern Texas, New Mexico, and Mexico, this type of salvia is tolerant to heat, humidity, and drought. Autumn Sage is generally hardy to about 15 degrees Fahrenheit (-9 Celsius). Any lower temperatures may cause damage or the plants to be completely lost. It can last as an evergreen in warmer climates.
Pruning
Cut individual stems at their main branch throughout the growing season, and prolong flowering by deadheading. Remove spent blooms at the stem. Gently pinch or pull the flower from its sepal, and toss it in the compost. Only let flowers drop on the soil if you want volunteer plants next season.
One way of pruning is shearing. This encourages new woody growth. If done once every two or three growing seasons, you will be rewarded with an exceptionally bushy plant.
Prune the shrub in its dormant months, before or after flowering, to prevent overcrowding. Cut off all the branches of the shrub down to its root, as close to the ground as possible. Do this at the end of each growing season, closer to the final flowering, to stimulate new growth.
Propagating Autumn Sage
Cuttings or transplants will produce a plant truer to its original type, as compared to seeds which may produce differences. In spring or early summer, propagate by basal cuttings or softwood cuttings. In late summer or autumn, propagate by semi-ripe cuttings. The rootball can also be divided into separate plants. Or, allow pods to dry on the plant and break them open to collect and properly clean the seeds. Sow seeds indoors before the last frost and outdoors directly after the last frost.
Common Pests/Diseases
Keep an eye out for leafhoppers, slugs and snails, and rosemary beetles. Being nearly disease-free and deer resistant, the Autumn Sage plant is overall easy to maintain. Welcome this flowering shrub into your sunny garden and watch the flowers flourish for a long growing season.
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文章
Miss Chen
2021年08月31日
Aubrieta, a cheerful ground cover, is a great candidate for edging your paths or tucking into stone walls if your site meets some basic growing requirements. When the profuse magenta flowers have faded, the grayish-green foliage maintains a handsome mat that covers bare areas under leggy roses or between paving stones on a garden path. These plants are far more common in Europe than in North America. The genus name derives from Claude Aubriet, a European landscape artist from the 17th century.
Botanical Name Aubrieta spp.
Common Name Aubrieta, false rock cress
Plant Type Herbaceous perennial
Mature Size 4 to 6 inches tall; 12-to 24-inch spread
Sun Exposure Full sun to part shade
Soil Type Lean, rocky soil
Soil pH 6.5 to 7.5 (slightly acidic to alkaline)
Bloom Time April, May
Flower Color Pink, purple, white
Hardiness Zones 4 to 9 (USDA)
Native Area Rocky regions of southwestern Europe
How to Grow Aubrieta
Aubrieta thrives best when planted in well-draining, alkaline soil in a full sun location. In midsummer, the foliage tends to die back and will benefit from a hard shearing. As a member of the mustard family, this is a tough plant that requires little care. Once established, it has a good tolerance for drought, and it resists nibbling by deer.
Aubrieta is rarely bothered by insect pests. Plants growing in damp, shady areas may experience downy mildew.1 Prevent this fungal disease by providing enough light and spacing for air circulation.
Light
Aubrieta plants shine in full sun, but will also grow in part shade. For best results, grow plants where they will receive at least a half-day of sun. Plants that grow in too much shade will lose their compact, mounded appearance, take on a leggy look, and have sparse flowers.
Soil
Aubrietas like a rocky, alkaline soil, which mimics the soil found in their native alpine habitats. If the pH is low, increase it with the addition of lime. Good drainage is important to prevent root rot.2 Use gravel, vermiculite, or another non-organic soil amendment that will help drainage without lowering soil pH.
Water
Aubrieta plants need a moderate amount of water, but they don't like wet feet. Rocky soils that prevent standing water will keep healthy root systems on your aubrieta plants.
Temperature and Humidity
Aubrieta plants grow best in areas with cool summers that mirror their alpine climate. Periods of high humidity are fine; in fact, the cool, damp climate of Great Britain or Washington state is where you are most likely to find extraordinary specimens of aubrieta plants.
Fertilizer
Aubrietas grow in lean soil and need no supplemental fertilizer to make beautiful blooms. At most, occasional watering with compost tea is all the feeding aubrieta plants need.
Being Grown in Containers
Aubrieta complements the container garden as a trailing plant, softening container edges. Plant it as a companion to other rock garden flowers with similar growing needs, like dianthus.
Potting and Repotting
Pot up your aubrieta plants with a lightweight all-purpose potting soil. A potting mix meant for cacti is also appropriate for aubrieta plants. Take care not to bury the foliage when potting up aubrieta. There are a few inches of brown stem beneath the foliage, and this is the working area of the plant when repotting. Lift the foliage, and carefully mound soil around the stems and roots to secure the plant in its place.
Pruning
Aubrieta can get a bit scraggly after blooming. Keep it tidy by trimming plants back after flowering. Use shears, and trim no more than half the plant's growth at any one time.
Propagating Aubrieta
You can divide aubrieta in early fall to increase your stock. Dig the plant, and tease the clump apart with your hands or a garden fork. Replant the divisions 12 inches apart.
Growing From Seeds
Aubrieta can be hard to find as nursery plants, so it is often grown from seed. Sow aubrieta seeds on top of sterile potting mix. The seeds need light for germination, so press seeds down but don't cover them. Keep seeds moist at about 68 degrees Fahrenheit. Germination will occur in two to three weeks.
Varieties of Aubrieta
'Rokey's Purple' is among the most commonly seen aubrieta in gardens; it features bright violet flowers.
'Doctor Mules Variegated' aubrieta offers a completely different look; it's important to know, however, that variegated types may revert to green, so prune away any all-green stems that form.
'Snowdrift' is a popular all-white cultivar.
Aubrieta vs. Creeping Phlox
The flowers and form of aubrieta and creeping phlox (Phlox subulata) are so similar as to be indistinguishable at first glance. Both plants grow as a creeping mat, spreading across the border's edge or trailing down walls. However, creeping phlox plants are more heat- and drought-tolerant than aubrieta, which may account for its preference in American gardens.
Landscape Uses
Spring-blooming aubrieta makes a perfect pocket plant for garden walls and rock gardens. The plants have a very small footprint and can establish a deep root system in the soil behind a retaining wall, while foliage and flowers can spread up to 18 inches or more, giving the appearance of a living wall. Aubrieta plants also provide good erosion control on hillsides and attract butterflies with their prolific spring flowers.
Botanical Name Aubrieta spp.
Common Name Aubrieta, false rock cress
Plant Type Herbaceous perennial
Mature Size 4 to 6 inches tall; 12-to 24-inch spread
Sun Exposure Full sun to part shade
Soil Type Lean, rocky soil
Soil pH 6.5 to 7.5 (slightly acidic to alkaline)
Bloom Time April, May
Flower Color Pink, purple, white
Hardiness Zones 4 to 9 (USDA)
Native Area Rocky regions of southwestern Europe
How to Grow Aubrieta
Aubrieta thrives best when planted in well-draining, alkaline soil in a full sun location. In midsummer, the foliage tends to die back and will benefit from a hard shearing. As a member of the mustard family, this is a tough plant that requires little care. Once established, it has a good tolerance for drought, and it resists nibbling by deer.
Aubrieta is rarely bothered by insect pests. Plants growing in damp, shady areas may experience downy mildew.1 Prevent this fungal disease by providing enough light and spacing for air circulation.
Light
Aubrieta plants shine in full sun, but will also grow in part shade. For best results, grow plants where they will receive at least a half-day of sun. Plants that grow in too much shade will lose their compact, mounded appearance, take on a leggy look, and have sparse flowers.
Soil
Aubrietas like a rocky, alkaline soil, which mimics the soil found in their native alpine habitats. If the pH is low, increase it with the addition of lime. Good drainage is important to prevent root rot.2 Use gravel, vermiculite, or another non-organic soil amendment that will help drainage without lowering soil pH.
Water
Aubrieta plants need a moderate amount of water, but they don't like wet feet. Rocky soils that prevent standing water will keep healthy root systems on your aubrieta plants.
Temperature and Humidity
Aubrieta plants grow best in areas with cool summers that mirror their alpine climate. Periods of high humidity are fine; in fact, the cool, damp climate of Great Britain or Washington state is where you are most likely to find extraordinary specimens of aubrieta plants.
Fertilizer
Aubrietas grow in lean soil and need no supplemental fertilizer to make beautiful blooms. At most, occasional watering with compost tea is all the feeding aubrieta plants need.
Being Grown in Containers
Aubrieta complements the container garden as a trailing plant, softening container edges. Plant it as a companion to other rock garden flowers with similar growing needs, like dianthus.
Potting and Repotting
Pot up your aubrieta plants with a lightweight all-purpose potting soil. A potting mix meant for cacti is also appropriate for aubrieta plants. Take care not to bury the foliage when potting up aubrieta. There are a few inches of brown stem beneath the foliage, and this is the working area of the plant when repotting. Lift the foliage, and carefully mound soil around the stems and roots to secure the plant in its place.
Pruning
Aubrieta can get a bit scraggly after blooming. Keep it tidy by trimming plants back after flowering. Use shears, and trim no more than half the plant's growth at any one time.
Propagating Aubrieta
You can divide aubrieta in early fall to increase your stock. Dig the plant, and tease the clump apart with your hands or a garden fork. Replant the divisions 12 inches apart.
Growing From Seeds
Aubrieta can be hard to find as nursery plants, so it is often grown from seed. Sow aubrieta seeds on top of sterile potting mix. The seeds need light for germination, so press seeds down but don't cover them. Keep seeds moist at about 68 degrees Fahrenheit. Germination will occur in two to three weeks.
Varieties of Aubrieta
'Rokey's Purple' is among the most commonly seen aubrieta in gardens; it features bright violet flowers.
'Doctor Mules Variegated' aubrieta offers a completely different look; it's important to know, however, that variegated types may revert to green, so prune away any all-green stems that form.
'Snowdrift' is a popular all-white cultivar.
Aubrieta vs. Creeping Phlox
The flowers and form of aubrieta and creeping phlox (Phlox subulata) are so similar as to be indistinguishable at first glance. Both plants grow as a creeping mat, spreading across the border's edge or trailing down walls. However, creeping phlox plants are more heat- and drought-tolerant than aubrieta, which may account for its preference in American gardens.
Landscape Uses
Spring-blooming aubrieta makes a perfect pocket plant for garden walls and rock gardens. The plants have a very small footprint and can establish a deep root system in the soil behind a retaining wall, while foliage and flowers can spread up to 18 inches or more, giving the appearance of a living wall. Aubrieta plants also provide good erosion control on hillsides and attract butterflies with their prolific spring flowers.
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文章
Miss Chen
2021年08月23日
If you have not seen an Ashe's magnolia in a garden or its native setting you are not alone. The diminutive magnolia with the larger than life leaves and flowers is a rarity.
Magnolia ashei is a species of magnolia that baffles botanists to this day. The tree is so perplexing that scientists continuously research why it has not spread past its restrained native range of only six northwest Florida Panhandle counties.
The good news is that this stunner is finally catching on and people are learning how to responsibly propagate the Ashe's magnolia for use in the nursery trade. It has gained so much popularity that it was named 2017 plant of the year by the Garden Club of America.
When looking for a tree to purchase or research, you might be directed to the bigleaf magnolia (Magnolia macrophylla). Depending on what botanist is classifying the plant, this is left open for interpretation. Some call Magnolia ashei a subspecies of Magnolia macrophylla. The difference is evident when you see the two next to each other. The tall, M. macrophylla, towers over its stout cousin. The bigleaf magnolia averages 30-40 feet. An Ashe magnolia grows 15-25 feet. As you can imagine, that is not a mistake you want to make.
The Ashe's magnolia has interesting traits that make it desirable to seek out for a garden project, even if it does take a little searching. It is shrubby in form and only grows to about 25 feet but obtains the same width.
The tree flowers in a relatively short time after establishing itself, sometimes as little as two years, and is even known to produce flowers in one-gallon containers. It will flower much more if its lateral roots are given room to grow.
The tree is also light adaptable in that it possesses unique leaves that allow their size to expand or contract if it is in a lower or higher light area. The leaves grow to a wow-inducing 24 inches long by 10 inches across. Then the tree starts to produce the sweet-smelling blooms that are creamy-white with purple centers. The blooms can reach up to 15 inches across with 9 lazily drooping tepals (petals on a magnolia tree).
In nature, you will typically find an Ashe's magnolia in ravine slopes and mixed hardwood forests of those six Florida counties. Here they number in the thousands not hundreds of thousands or millions.
Sadly, the Ashe's magnolia has been declared endangered. Researchers are worried that the tree is not replenishing its own population and that has them concerned for the Ashe's magnolia’s future in the wild. Adding this tree to your landscape would not just be a great idea aesthetically, it would add horticulture interest and be ecologically friendly too!
Botanical Name Magnolia ashei
Common Name Ashe's Magnolia, Ashe Magnolia
Plant Type Tree
Mature Size 25 ft. tall
Sun Exposure Full Sun, Partial Shade
Soil Type Fertile, Well-drained
Soil pH Acid, Neutral, Alkaline
Bloom Time Spring, Summer
Flower Color White
Hardiness Zones 6-9, USA
Native Range Florida
Ashe's Magnolia Care
For a rare plant, the Ashe's magnolia is incredibly unpretentious. It has been known to grow quite happily in gardens that experience New England winters, while still thriving as it does in its native range. It can be grown with the help of fertilizer in a container on a patio or in the sweltering Midwest summers. Truly the only area where it will not grow in is the harsh deserts of the Southwest United States.
The key to success is giving the Ashe's Magnolia room for roots to grow laterally, a good amount of light, good soil and you will have success.
The Ashe magnolia is pretty easy-going and does not give you many excuses to think twice about including it in your landscape design.
The tree grows as wide as it does high and its roots grow out laterally quite far. So, when planting, it might be a good idea to give it a spot by itself with nothing around it. It deserves a place of pride. The more light it gets, the bigger and the more blooms it puts off.
The Ashe's magnolia will be a small plant when you get it from the nursery, most likely in a one to three-gallon container. The first thing you need to do is dig a hole as deep as the container then expand the diameter to three times the width of the container. Fill the hole with water and add a root stimulator. Place your tree in the hole keeping it straight and upright, replace the soil and tamp it down. Lightly mulch the tree without touching the trunk to a depth of three inches. Water the tree weekly for the first year until established.
Light
Light is not a major concern to the health of the Ashe's magnolia and will only effect blooms and form. Without full sun, the form of the tree will be spindly and have intermittent blooms. The limbs are heliotropic, the plant moves towards the sun, and its form will be affected greatly by that.
Otherwise, there will be no negative health effects. In nature, this is an understory tree and it normally gets dappled sunlight. When it gets an abundance of light it really excels.
Soil
The Ashe magnolia thrives in deep sandy soil types that are well-drained and rich in humus. In its native Florida, there is an abundance of clay and limestone in the soil, so it will really take to soils that mimic those conditions. You do not need to worry about pH unless you are growing your plant in a container.
Water
Like most other magnolias, once you have helped it get established with a weekly soaking, you can let nature do what it does best. The only time you might need to be concerned is if you are growing your Ashe's magnolia in a container. Then weekly watering is in order if there are dry or drought conditions.
Temperature and Humidity
The Ashe's magnolia is adaptable to a range of climates but does not do well in hot and dry conditions.
Fertilizer
The Ashe's Magnolia will not need to be fertilized unless you grow it in a container. If you have used a container, then use a slow-release fertilizer. Look for a fertilizer that consists of 15-30-8.
Growing Ashe's Magnolia in a Container
Putting your Ashe magnolia in a container on a patio is a great idea if you are lacking room or just prefer having it on your deck or as an accent. What you need to remember is that this plant will need a lot of root space to grow.
If your tree comes in one-gallon container, then buy the largest possible planter you can and plant your magnolia in the pot close to the surface and let the roots do their work.
The soil you plant in should be a good organic mix of humus, vermiculite, perlite, peat, and compost. Check the pH to make sure it is on the acidic side. You can make the environment perfect for your tree since you are building its home.
Magnolia ashei is a species of magnolia that baffles botanists to this day. The tree is so perplexing that scientists continuously research why it has not spread past its restrained native range of only six northwest Florida Panhandle counties.
The good news is that this stunner is finally catching on and people are learning how to responsibly propagate the Ashe's magnolia for use in the nursery trade. It has gained so much popularity that it was named 2017 plant of the year by the Garden Club of America.
When looking for a tree to purchase or research, you might be directed to the bigleaf magnolia (Magnolia macrophylla). Depending on what botanist is classifying the plant, this is left open for interpretation. Some call Magnolia ashei a subspecies of Magnolia macrophylla. The difference is evident when you see the two next to each other. The tall, M. macrophylla, towers over its stout cousin. The bigleaf magnolia averages 30-40 feet. An Ashe magnolia grows 15-25 feet. As you can imagine, that is not a mistake you want to make.
The Ashe's magnolia has interesting traits that make it desirable to seek out for a garden project, even if it does take a little searching. It is shrubby in form and only grows to about 25 feet but obtains the same width.
The tree flowers in a relatively short time after establishing itself, sometimes as little as two years, and is even known to produce flowers in one-gallon containers. It will flower much more if its lateral roots are given room to grow.
The tree is also light adaptable in that it possesses unique leaves that allow their size to expand or contract if it is in a lower or higher light area. The leaves grow to a wow-inducing 24 inches long by 10 inches across. Then the tree starts to produce the sweet-smelling blooms that are creamy-white with purple centers. The blooms can reach up to 15 inches across with 9 lazily drooping tepals (petals on a magnolia tree).
In nature, you will typically find an Ashe's magnolia in ravine slopes and mixed hardwood forests of those six Florida counties. Here they number in the thousands not hundreds of thousands or millions.
Sadly, the Ashe's magnolia has been declared endangered. Researchers are worried that the tree is not replenishing its own population and that has them concerned for the Ashe's magnolia’s future in the wild. Adding this tree to your landscape would not just be a great idea aesthetically, it would add horticulture interest and be ecologically friendly too!
Botanical Name Magnolia ashei
Common Name Ashe's Magnolia, Ashe Magnolia
Plant Type Tree
Mature Size 25 ft. tall
Sun Exposure Full Sun, Partial Shade
Soil Type Fertile, Well-drained
Soil pH Acid, Neutral, Alkaline
Bloom Time Spring, Summer
Flower Color White
Hardiness Zones 6-9, USA
Native Range Florida
Ashe's Magnolia Care
For a rare plant, the Ashe's magnolia is incredibly unpretentious. It has been known to grow quite happily in gardens that experience New England winters, while still thriving as it does in its native range. It can be grown with the help of fertilizer in a container on a patio or in the sweltering Midwest summers. Truly the only area where it will not grow in is the harsh deserts of the Southwest United States.
The key to success is giving the Ashe's Magnolia room for roots to grow laterally, a good amount of light, good soil and you will have success.
The Ashe magnolia is pretty easy-going and does not give you many excuses to think twice about including it in your landscape design.
The tree grows as wide as it does high and its roots grow out laterally quite far. So, when planting, it might be a good idea to give it a spot by itself with nothing around it. It deserves a place of pride. The more light it gets, the bigger and the more blooms it puts off.
The Ashe's magnolia will be a small plant when you get it from the nursery, most likely in a one to three-gallon container. The first thing you need to do is dig a hole as deep as the container then expand the diameter to three times the width of the container. Fill the hole with water and add a root stimulator. Place your tree in the hole keeping it straight and upright, replace the soil and tamp it down. Lightly mulch the tree without touching the trunk to a depth of three inches. Water the tree weekly for the first year until established.
Light
Light is not a major concern to the health of the Ashe's magnolia and will only effect blooms and form. Without full sun, the form of the tree will be spindly and have intermittent blooms. The limbs are heliotropic, the plant moves towards the sun, and its form will be affected greatly by that.
Otherwise, there will be no negative health effects. In nature, this is an understory tree and it normally gets dappled sunlight. When it gets an abundance of light it really excels.
Soil
The Ashe magnolia thrives in deep sandy soil types that are well-drained and rich in humus. In its native Florida, there is an abundance of clay and limestone in the soil, so it will really take to soils that mimic those conditions. You do not need to worry about pH unless you are growing your plant in a container.
Water
Like most other magnolias, once you have helped it get established with a weekly soaking, you can let nature do what it does best. The only time you might need to be concerned is if you are growing your Ashe's magnolia in a container. Then weekly watering is in order if there are dry or drought conditions.
Temperature and Humidity
The Ashe's magnolia is adaptable to a range of climates but does not do well in hot and dry conditions.
Fertilizer
The Ashe's Magnolia will not need to be fertilized unless you grow it in a container. If you have used a container, then use a slow-release fertilizer. Look for a fertilizer that consists of 15-30-8.
Growing Ashe's Magnolia in a Container
Putting your Ashe magnolia in a container on a patio is a great idea if you are lacking room or just prefer having it on your deck or as an accent. What you need to remember is that this plant will need a lot of root space to grow.
If your tree comes in one-gallon container, then buy the largest possible planter you can and plant your magnolia in the pot close to the surface and let the roots do their work.
The soil you plant in should be a good organic mix of humus, vermiculite, perlite, peat, and compost. Check the pH to make sure it is on the acidic side. You can make the environment perfect for your tree since you are building its home.
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文章
Miss Chen
2021年08月20日
Calla lilies are gracefully-shaped flowers that are sought after for both special occasion bouquets and beautiful home gardens. The blooms are truly timeless, and calla lilies have a storied history, including mentions in Greek and Roman mythology, where they were tied to both Hera, the goddess of marriage and birth, and Venus, the goddess of love and beauty.
Native to Africa, calla lilies also grow in other tropical climates, but can sometimes be considered invasive, specifically in Western Australia and some areas of the southern United States. The blooms come in a range of colors, from white and pale pink to deep burgundy, with some recent hybrids in dramatic colors like bright orange and black. They are a long-lasting cut flower and are popular in floral arrangements for this reason, especially when it comes to weddings.
When growing calla lilies for yourself, be sure to plant them in the springtime. They will grow moderately fast, often producing flowers by early-to-mid-summer and blooming throughout the season until early fall.
Botanical Name Zantedeschia aethiopica
Common Name Calla lily, arum lily
Plant Type Rhizome
Mature Size 2–3 ft. tall, 1–2 ft. wide
Sun Exposure Full sun, partial shade
Soil Type Moist but well-drained
Soil pH Acidic
Bloom Time Summer
Flower Color White, pink, coral, maroon, orange, yellow
Hardiness Zones 8 to 10
Native Areas Southern Africa, South Africa, Swaziland
Toxicity Toxic to dogs and cats
Calla Lily Care
Calla lilies are easy to grow outside, as long as you live in USDA hardiness zones 8 through 10. They grow from a rhizome, not from a bulb, which is a key indicator that they're not actually true lilies. Calla lilies will die back in summer and regrow each year, but in colder zones, you can plant calla lilies as an annual. By doing so, you'll have to either dig up and overwinter the rhizomes or buy new rhizomes each growing season.
Light
True to their tropical nature, calla lilies thrive in a warm environment, which includes plenty of light. If you live in an area that boasts hot and humid summer weather, your calla lilies will probably do better in a spot that experiences partial shade, while calla lilies grown in a slightly more temperate summer climate can handle full sunlight.
Soil
A rich, moist, well-drained soil is best to keep calla lilies blooming. Calla lilies often do well growing alongside ponds and can happily tolerate a moist soil location, though you should avoid allowing them to become waterlogged, which can lead to root rot. To increase the nutritional density of your soil, you can amend it with organic matter before planting your flowers.
Water
Don't water your calla lilies too heavily, especially after initially planting them. Once the rhizomes are established, you can water the plants once a week, or more frequently if experiencing especially hot or drought-like conditions. Calla lily plants potted indoors will need constant moisture, as pots will dry out sooner than ground plantings.
Temperature and Humidity
Calla lilies like a fairly warm environment and temperatures that range between 60 and 80 degrees Fahrenheit are ideal for them. They also enjoy a decent amount of humidity and moisture, so humid summers keep the flowers blooming just fine. If temperatures go much below 50 degrees Fahrenheit, the plants will tend to go dormant. If you want to dig up your rhizomes for overwintering, do so before temperatures go below freezing in your area in the fall.
Fertilizer
Calla lilies need feeding upon planting, and again every spring at the beginning of their growing season, in order to promote bountiful flowering. Most well-balanced fertilizers will work just fine, but avoid choosing a blend with too much nitrogen, which can reduce the plant's flowering.
Potting and Repotting Calla Lily
One indication that your calla lilies are ready for a bigger pot is if the roots look slightly crowded. Root-bound plants are not likely to thrive, so you should replant your blooms if you notice an issue with their roots.
Repotting calla lilies is actually pretty easy—to do so, carefully lift the flowers out of their smaller pot and gently place them into the larger one taking care not to damage the delicate roots. Fill the new pot with soil up to about an inch from the pot's rim. Calla lilies need to be kept moist for a few days after repotting, so make sure to keep an eye on the soil's moisture levels.
Propagating Calla Lily
Calla lilies can be propagated from rhizomes by dividing plants that have been growing outdoors. Over time, calla lilies grown outdoors will form large clumps that can be easily divided into smaller units and planted that way. After several years these divisions tend to lose vigor, so most people who want to grow them outdoors will invest in new divisions (available from catalogs) or nursery plants.
Common Pests/Diseases
There are several issues you may have to contend with when growing calla lilies, most notably bacterial soft rot, which affects the rhizomes,1 and botrytis, which is a fungal disease that causes a filmy grey mold to grow over the plant's petals, stems, and leaves.2 To reduce the risk of fungal diseases, be mindful of watering frequency, and be sure to plant your calla lilies far enough apart so that they have ample air circulation.
Various pests can also be an issue for calla lilies, including insects like aphids, slugs, and spider mites.3 To combat these issues, treat the plants with a mild insecticidal soap or horticultural oil like neem oil.
Native to Africa, calla lilies also grow in other tropical climates, but can sometimes be considered invasive, specifically in Western Australia and some areas of the southern United States. The blooms come in a range of colors, from white and pale pink to deep burgundy, with some recent hybrids in dramatic colors like bright orange and black. They are a long-lasting cut flower and are popular in floral arrangements for this reason, especially when it comes to weddings.
When growing calla lilies for yourself, be sure to plant them in the springtime. They will grow moderately fast, often producing flowers by early-to-mid-summer and blooming throughout the season until early fall.
Botanical Name Zantedeschia aethiopica
Common Name Calla lily, arum lily
Plant Type Rhizome
Mature Size 2–3 ft. tall, 1–2 ft. wide
Sun Exposure Full sun, partial shade
Soil Type Moist but well-drained
Soil pH Acidic
Bloom Time Summer
Flower Color White, pink, coral, maroon, orange, yellow
Hardiness Zones 8 to 10
Native Areas Southern Africa, South Africa, Swaziland
Toxicity Toxic to dogs and cats
Calla Lily Care
Calla lilies are easy to grow outside, as long as you live in USDA hardiness zones 8 through 10. They grow from a rhizome, not from a bulb, which is a key indicator that they're not actually true lilies. Calla lilies will die back in summer and regrow each year, but in colder zones, you can plant calla lilies as an annual. By doing so, you'll have to either dig up and overwinter the rhizomes or buy new rhizomes each growing season.
Light
True to their tropical nature, calla lilies thrive in a warm environment, which includes plenty of light. If you live in an area that boasts hot and humid summer weather, your calla lilies will probably do better in a spot that experiences partial shade, while calla lilies grown in a slightly more temperate summer climate can handle full sunlight.
Soil
A rich, moist, well-drained soil is best to keep calla lilies blooming. Calla lilies often do well growing alongside ponds and can happily tolerate a moist soil location, though you should avoid allowing them to become waterlogged, which can lead to root rot. To increase the nutritional density of your soil, you can amend it with organic matter before planting your flowers.
Water
Don't water your calla lilies too heavily, especially after initially planting them. Once the rhizomes are established, you can water the plants once a week, or more frequently if experiencing especially hot or drought-like conditions. Calla lily plants potted indoors will need constant moisture, as pots will dry out sooner than ground plantings.
Temperature and Humidity
Calla lilies like a fairly warm environment and temperatures that range between 60 and 80 degrees Fahrenheit are ideal for them. They also enjoy a decent amount of humidity and moisture, so humid summers keep the flowers blooming just fine. If temperatures go much below 50 degrees Fahrenheit, the plants will tend to go dormant. If you want to dig up your rhizomes for overwintering, do so before temperatures go below freezing in your area in the fall.
Fertilizer
Calla lilies need feeding upon planting, and again every spring at the beginning of their growing season, in order to promote bountiful flowering. Most well-balanced fertilizers will work just fine, but avoid choosing a blend with too much nitrogen, which can reduce the plant's flowering.
Potting and Repotting Calla Lily
One indication that your calla lilies are ready for a bigger pot is if the roots look slightly crowded. Root-bound plants are not likely to thrive, so you should replant your blooms if you notice an issue with their roots.
Repotting calla lilies is actually pretty easy—to do so, carefully lift the flowers out of their smaller pot and gently place them into the larger one taking care not to damage the delicate roots. Fill the new pot with soil up to about an inch from the pot's rim. Calla lilies need to be kept moist for a few days after repotting, so make sure to keep an eye on the soil's moisture levels.
Propagating Calla Lily
Calla lilies can be propagated from rhizomes by dividing plants that have been growing outdoors. Over time, calla lilies grown outdoors will form large clumps that can be easily divided into smaller units and planted that way. After several years these divisions tend to lose vigor, so most people who want to grow them outdoors will invest in new divisions (available from catalogs) or nursery plants.
Common Pests/Diseases
There are several issues you may have to contend with when growing calla lilies, most notably bacterial soft rot, which affects the rhizomes,1 and botrytis, which is a fungal disease that causes a filmy grey mold to grow over the plant's petals, stems, and leaves.2 To reduce the risk of fungal diseases, be mindful of watering frequency, and be sure to plant your calla lilies far enough apart so that they have ample air circulation.
Various pests can also be an issue for calla lilies, including insects like aphids, slugs, and spider mites.3 To combat these issues, treat the plants with a mild insecticidal soap or horticultural oil like neem oil.
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文章
Miss Chen
2021年08月01日
The common name "anemone" is a collective label used for a number of different species in the Anemone genus of plants. Many gardeners know the plants as windflowers, so named because the delicate poppy-like flowers sway in the lightest breezes. (The Greek word "anemos" translates as "wind.") Gardeners who love the look of the exotic Himalayan blue poppy but are unsuccessful in growing it should try the much more forgiving anemone flower.
The flowers of these spring- or fall-blooming plants are a hot trend in wedding bouquets, and also make the garden come alive in vibrant red, white, pink, yellow, and purple shades. Anemone flowers have a simple, daisy-like shape and lobed foliage. Some anemone varieties feature double flowers, similar to a frilly, oversized mum.
The Ranunculaceae family in which the anemone genus fits is a generous contributor to flower gardens. In addition to the Anemone, other members of the family include delphinium, clematis, and ranunculus.
Botanical Name Anemone spp.
Common Names Anemone, windflower, Grecian windflower, poppy windflower
Plant Type Herbaceous perennial
Mature Size 6 inches to 4 feet (depends on species and variety)
Sun Exposure Full sun to part shade
Soil Type Rich, moist soil
Soil pH 5.6 to 7.5 (slightly acidic to neutral); varies by species
Bloom Time Spring, fall
Flower Color Red, orange, yellow-green, blue, purple, red-purple, white, ivory, and pink
Hardiness Zones 5 to 10 (USDA); varies by species
Native Area Temperate zones worldwide; many species are native to North America
Toxicity Toxic to humans, toxic to pets
How to Grow Anemones
Choose your planting time based on the blooming cycle of your chosen species. Plant spring bloomers in the fall, and fall bloomers in the spring. Different species of anemones have different types of root structures, and the planting method varies a bit from type to type. Normally, anemones are planted from bare rootstocks purchased from online or mail-order retailers.
Some species, such as A. coronaria (often known as poppy anemone) have roots that resemble bulb-like corms. The small corms are planted in groups, like tulips or daffodils. Place them in clusters spaces about 1 inch apart, 2 inches deep. Let nature dictate the spreading of the cluster. With corm-types, leave the foliage in place to replenish the corms until it turns brown
Other species, including A. blanda (sometimes known as Grecian windflower) have tuberous or rhizomatous roots that are planted like dahlia or tuberous iris roots, in small groups 3 to 6 inches deep. It helps to soak the dried tubers in water overnight to soften them before planting.
Whatever the species of Anemone, these plants generally like at least four hours of sun each day and well-drained soil that is relatively moist. Once planted, they are relatively care-free plants. Those types with rhizomatous roots will need to be lifted and divided every three years or so. When foliage turns brown in late fall, cut it away to ground level.
Light
Anemones should be placed where they can receive at least half a day of sunlight. Some varieties thrive more in partial shade.
Soil
Plant anemones in well-drained soil. Before planting, you can improve the soil by adding compost, leaf mold, or other organic matter. Anemones aren't fussy about soil pH, but will thrive best in slightly acidic soil.
Water
Water the plants regularly when it does not rain. Try to keep the soil lightly moist. Water slowly, allowing the soil to absorb as much water as possible. Some varieties have special water needs; for example, wood anemone (A. nemorosa) dies to the ground in midsummer and does not need water until it regrows in fall.
Temperature and Humidity
The recommended temperatures for growing anemones is 58 to 65 degrees Fahrenheit during the day and 42 to 50 degrees at night. For some species, the optimum temperature for efficient flower initiation may be lower than 54 degrees.
Fertilizer
If desired, you can add some bone meal to the soil in the fall for spring bloomers or in the spring for fall bloomers to give the bulbs a nutrient boost.
Pruning
The fading foliage of spring bloomers is usually insignificant enough to wither away unnoticed, so you will not need to prune it for a tidy looking garden. Taller fall-blooming varieties may look shabby after the first frost, so shear off dead growth during early winter clean up.
Propagating Anemones
Though the different species of anemones have different root structures, all can be propagated by digging up the corms/ tubers, dividing them into pieces, then replanting. A common practice is to routinely dig up and divide the roots in the fall, then store them over winter for spring replanting. Make sure to inspect the roots and discard any that are diseased or soft with rot. Lifting the roots in fall for winter storage can be a good idea if your garden experiences wet soil over the winter.
Unlike many bulbs that have a distinct shape that indicates how you should orient them in the planting hole, anemones corms/tubers are lumpy and irregular. They will grow properly no matter how you orient them in the ground. If you have stored the roots over winter, it's a good idea to soak them overnight before planting.
Be generous when you plant the petite spring anemones; these low-growing plants that range from 3 to 15 inches in height look best when planted in groups of 50 or more.
Varieties of Anemone
There are several good species of Anemone available, each with several named cultivars to choose from:
Anemone blanda adapts well outdoors and is hardy in zones 5 through 9. This plant is sometimes known as Grecian windflower.
Anemone coronaria, has poppy-like blooms with black centers. These are popular in floral arrangements. This species, sometimes known as poppy anemone, is reliably hardy only in zones 8 through 10.
Anemone hupehensis var. japonica, the Japanese anemone, blooms abundantly from mid-summer to late fall, giving gardeners a shade-loving alternative to the sun-drenched mums and asters of autumn. It is grown in zones 4 to 8.
Anemone sylvestris (sometimes known as snowdrop windflower) is an early spring bloomer that does not have time to attain great heights; it belongs at the front of the border. You can grow it in zones 4 to 8.
Landscape Uses
Plant several dozen spring-blooming anemones around your tulips and daffodils, or plant large drifts of anemones in wooded areas, where they can naturalize undisturbed. Place your spring-blooming anemones near the front of your borders or at the edges of paths, and do not worry about browsing deer, which generally find this flower unpalatable. Fall-blooming anemones are good for filling in gaps between mounding chrysanthemum plants.
Common Pests/ Diseases
Although there are no truly serious pest or disease problems with Anemones, they can be stricken with foliar nematodes that feed inside the leaves. These microscopic soil worms can cause distorted leaves and flowers through damage to the plant cells. Treatment is difficult, but removing plants and heating the soil through solarization sometimes gets rid of nematodes. All plant material in the afflicted area will need to be removed and disposed of. Periodically churning up the soil and allowing it to bake in the sun may rid the area of nematodes.
A variety of fungal leaf spots, down mildew, and powdery mildew may appear on Anemones, though the diseases are rarely serious.
Taller Anemones may need to be staked to prevent them from flopping, especially when grown in shady areas.
The flowers of these spring- or fall-blooming plants are a hot trend in wedding bouquets, and also make the garden come alive in vibrant red, white, pink, yellow, and purple shades. Anemone flowers have a simple, daisy-like shape and lobed foliage. Some anemone varieties feature double flowers, similar to a frilly, oversized mum.
The Ranunculaceae family in which the anemone genus fits is a generous contributor to flower gardens. In addition to the Anemone, other members of the family include delphinium, clematis, and ranunculus.
Botanical Name Anemone spp.
Common Names Anemone, windflower, Grecian windflower, poppy windflower
Plant Type Herbaceous perennial
Mature Size 6 inches to 4 feet (depends on species and variety)
Sun Exposure Full sun to part shade
Soil Type Rich, moist soil
Soil pH 5.6 to 7.5 (slightly acidic to neutral); varies by species
Bloom Time Spring, fall
Flower Color Red, orange, yellow-green, blue, purple, red-purple, white, ivory, and pink
Hardiness Zones 5 to 10 (USDA); varies by species
Native Area Temperate zones worldwide; many species are native to North America
Toxicity Toxic to humans, toxic to pets
How to Grow Anemones
Choose your planting time based on the blooming cycle of your chosen species. Plant spring bloomers in the fall, and fall bloomers in the spring. Different species of anemones have different types of root structures, and the planting method varies a bit from type to type. Normally, anemones are planted from bare rootstocks purchased from online or mail-order retailers.
Some species, such as A. coronaria (often known as poppy anemone) have roots that resemble bulb-like corms. The small corms are planted in groups, like tulips or daffodils. Place them in clusters spaces about 1 inch apart, 2 inches deep. Let nature dictate the spreading of the cluster. With corm-types, leave the foliage in place to replenish the corms until it turns brown
Other species, including A. blanda (sometimes known as Grecian windflower) have tuberous or rhizomatous roots that are planted like dahlia or tuberous iris roots, in small groups 3 to 6 inches deep. It helps to soak the dried tubers in water overnight to soften them before planting.
Whatever the species of Anemone, these plants generally like at least four hours of sun each day and well-drained soil that is relatively moist. Once planted, they are relatively care-free plants. Those types with rhizomatous roots will need to be lifted and divided every three years or so. When foliage turns brown in late fall, cut it away to ground level.
Light
Anemones should be placed where they can receive at least half a day of sunlight. Some varieties thrive more in partial shade.
Soil
Plant anemones in well-drained soil. Before planting, you can improve the soil by adding compost, leaf mold, or other organic matter. Anemones aren't fussy about soil pH, but will thrive best in slightly acidic soil.
Water
Water the plants regularly when it does not rain. Try to keep the soil lightly moist. Water slowly, allowing the soil to absorb as much water as possible. Some varieties have special water needs; for example, wood anemone (A. nemorosa) dies to the ground in midsummer and does not need water until it regrows in fall.
Temperature and Humidity
The recommended temperatures for growing anemones is 58 to 65 degrees Fahrenheit during the day and 42 to 50 degrees at night. For some species, the optimum temperature for efficient flower initiation may be lower than 54 degrees.
Fertilizer
If desired, you can add some bone meal to the soil in the fall for spring bloomers or in the spring for fall bloomers to give the bulbs a nutrient boost.
Pruning
The fading foliage of spring bloomers is usually insignificant enough to wither away unnoticed, so you will not need to prune it for a tidy looking garden. Taller fall-blooming varieties may look shabby after the first frost, so shear off dead growth during early winter clean up.
Propagating Anemones
Though the different species of anemones have different root structures, all can be propagated by digging up the corms/ tubers, dividing them into pieces, then replanting. A common practice is to routinely dig up and divide the roots in the fall, then store them over winter for spring replanting. Make sure to inspect the roots and discard any that are diseased or soft with rot. Lifting the roots in fall for winter storage can be a good idea if your garden experiences wet soil over the winter.
Unlike many bulbs that have a distinct shape that indicates how you should orient them in the planting hole, anemones corms/tubers are lumpy and irregular. They will grow properly no matter how you orient them in the ground. If you have stored the roots over winter, it's a good idea to soak them overnight before planting.
Be generous when you plant the petite spring anemones; these low-growing plants that range from 3 to 15 inches in height look best when planted in groups of 50 or more.
Varieties of Anemone
There are several good species of Anemone available, each with several named cultivars to choose from:
Anemone blanda adapts well outdoors and is hardy in zones 5 through 9. This plant is sometimes known as Grecian windflower.
Anemone coronaria, has poppy-like blooms with black centers. These are popular in floral arrangements. This species, sometimes known as poppy anemone, is reliably hardy only in zones 8 through 10.
Anemone hupehensis var. japonica, the Japanese anemone, blooms abundantly from mid-summer to late fall, giving gardeners a shade-loving alternative to the sun-drenched mums and asters of autumn. It is grown in zones 4 to 8.
Anemone sylvestris (sometimes known as snowdrop windflower) is an early spring bloomer that does not have time to attain great heights; it belongs at the front of the border. You can grow it in zones 4 to 8.
Landscape Uses
Plant several dozen spring-blooming anemones around your tulips and daffodils, or plant large drifts of anemones in wooded areas, where they can naturalize undisturbed. Place your spring-blooming anemones near the front of your borders or at the edges of paths, and do not worry about browsing deer, which generally find this flower unpalatable. Fall-blooming anemones are good for filling in gaps between mounding chrysanthemum plants.
Common Pests/ Diseases
Although there are no truly serious pest or disease problems with Anemones, they can be stricken with foliar nematodes that feed inside the leaves. These microscopic soil worms can cause distorted leaves and flowers through damage to the plant cells. Treatment is difficult, but removing plants and heating the soil through solarization sometimes gets rid of nematodes. All plant material in the afflicted area will need to be removed and disposed of. Periodically churning up the soil and allowing it to bake in the sun may rid the area of nematodes.
A variety of fungal leaf spots, down mildew, and powdery mildew may appear on Anemones, though the diseases are rarely serious.
Taller Anemones may need to be staked to prevent them from flopping, especially when grown in shady areas.
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0
文章
Miss Chen
2021年07月23日
The giant amaryllis flowers commonly grown as winter-blooming houseplants are generally carefully bred hybrids derived from various species in the Hippeastrum genus, a group of tropical plants from Central and South America. These plants have strappy leaves and huge flowers shaped like trumpet lilies. The blooms are typically are a deep red, pink, white, or blend of these colors. You can expect your amaryllis to bloom for seven weeks or longer.
There is also a true amaryllis genus containing just two species native to South Africa. These are not, however, the plants cultivated in the U.S. as amaryllis.
Controlling Bloom Time
If grown in a frost-free garden (zones 8 to 10), amaryllis will naturally bloom in March, April, and May, with fall rebloom possible. But amaryllis bulbs are often purchased to grow as potted plants for holiday bloom, which is only possible if you plant the dormant bulbs at precisely the right time—about 10 to 12 weeks before desired bloom time. When you buy commercial bulbs from a grower for Christmas bloom, these are dormant bulbs that should be kept cool until the right planting time.
If you already have potted amaryllis plants, future blooms can be controlled by setting the plant outdoors to grow through the summer, then bringing it indoors and forcing them into a short period of dormancy by withholding water and fertilizer for several weeks, then restarting the bulbs.
Botanical Name Hippeastrum (Group)
Common Name Amaryllis
Plant Type Perennial bulb
Mature Size 1 to 2 feet tall; 9- to 12-inch spread
Sun Exposure Full sun to part shade
Soil Type Rich, well-drained soil (outdoors); rich potting mix (indoors)
Soil pH 6.0 to 6.5 (slightly acidic)
Bloom Time Seasonal bloomer
Flower Color Red, pink, white with spots and bands
Hardiness Zones 8 to 10 (USDA)
Native Area Central and South America
Toxicity Mildly toxic
Amaryllis Care
The techniques for growing amaryllis vary, depending on whether you're growing it indoors or outdoors, and when you want it to bloom.
As a New Indoor Plant for Seasonal Blooms
Partially fill a 5- to 7-inch pot with a good-quality, well-draining potting mix, then plant the amaryllis bulb so the top one-third is exposed when you fill in the rest of the pot with potting mix. The bulbs should be planted 10 to 12 weeks before you want them to bloom.
Place a bamboo stalk alongside the bulb. The flowers can get top-heavy, and inserting the stake now will help you avoid damaging the bulb and roots later.
Water well, then place the pot in bright, indirect light and keep the soil moist, but not wet. A thick flower stalk should shoot up within a few weeks. The flat leaves will follow as the flower stalk matures. Turn the pot every few days, so the flower stalk gets uniform exposure on all sides and grows straight.
Forcing an Existing Plant Into Holiday Bloom
To force a potted amaryllis to bloom for the winter holidays, cut back the flower stalk after blooming stops, but allow the foliage to continue growing. You can place your plant outdoors for summer, if you like, in partial shade. Keep the watered so the soil is moist, but not wet.
Stop feeding in August. When it’s time to bring plants indoors, in September or October, move your amaryllis to a cool (55 to 60 degrees Fahrenheit), dry spot, and stop watering it. The foliage will already be dying back. If you want your amaryllis to bloom at a specific time, such as Thanksgiving or Christmas, count backward about 10 to 12 weeks, to determine when to stop watering.
The lack of foliage and water will induce the amaryllis to send out another flower stalk. Resume watering at this time and move the plant to a warm, sunny spot. Leaves will appear shortly followed by blooms. When the flowers fade, start the process over.
Allowing Potted Plants to Re-bloom Naturally
To allow your potted amaryllis to re-bloom naturally, cut off the flower stalk after blooming ceases, but let the foliage continue to grow as long as it can. Keep it in bright light, indoors or out. Keep the plant watered so the soil is moist, but not wet.
Stop feeding the plant in August. Bring it indoors before a frost hits it and place the pot in a cool spot in indirect, bright light. The leaves will start to yellow and drop around December. Keep watering as usual and new flower stalks should appear in a month or two. Resume feeding at this time and move the plant to a warm, sunny spot. Leaves will appear shortly, followed by blooms.
When the flowers fade, start the process over. Allowing the plant to bloom naturally in this way will result in larger plants and flowers.
As a Garden Plant
In zones 8 to 10, amaryllis bulbs can be planted in the garden. If your area is entirely frost-free, plant the bulbs with their necks at, or slightly above, ground level. In areas where frost is possible, set the bulbs with 5 to 6 inches of soil above them, followed by 5 to 6 inches of mulch. Water thoroughly after planting, but then water only when the top 2 inches of soil is dry.
After leaves appear, feed with a balanced fertilizer once each month until April. Garden amaryllis generally bloom in March, April, and May. When flowering is complete, remove the flower stalks, but leave the foliage to continue growing. If any leaves turn yellow, cut them off.
From June to September, water the plants only during dry periods. In fall, apply a layer of winter mulch if your area will see winter frost. The plants typically go dormant over winter.
Light
Amaryllis will grow in full sun to part shade conditions. Outdoors, bright shade is the best environment. Grown as potted plants indoors, they prefer morning sun but bright shade in the afternoon.
Soil
Outdoors, grow amaryllis bulbs in well-drained, fertile soil. When growing potted bulbs, use a good-quality, well-draining sandy loam potting mix.
Water
During the growing/ flowering period, water your amaryllis whenever the top 2 inches of soil become dry. Amaryllis requires a dry rest period immediately after flowering in order to reset the bulbs for future blooms. Forcing amaryllis into seasonal bloom requires careful manipulation of the watering schedule (see above).
Temperature and Humidity
Amaryllis are tropical plants that prefer warm temperatures. Outdoors, they are hardy to zone 8, and zone 7 gardeners can sometimes overwinter them in the garden if the ground is heavily mulched.
Fertilizer
During the growth period, feed your amaryllis with a half-strength water-soluble fertilizer every two to three weeks. After flowering, withhold feeding to induce the dormancy needed to reset the bulbs.
Varieties of Amaryllis
There are dozens of different amaryllis varieties, and the choice really depends on what flower color most appeals to you. Some recommended choices include:
'Samba': This variety has large red ruffled blooms with white markings.
'Apple Blossom': This popular variety has blooms that mix pink and white, with green throats.
'Faro': This plant has delicate flowers in pale salmon and white. The blooms are smaller and more delicate than with most varieties.
'Summertime': This plant has large 7-inch blooms in a unique watermelon pink to dark rose hue, with greenish centers.
'Matterhorn': This is a good choice for a pure white amaryllis. The throats are yellow-green.
Pruning
When the flowers fade, cut the flower stalk back to just above the bulb. Keep watering the plant until it goes dormant in the fall. You can move the amaryllis outdoors for the summer, placing it in a part-shade location.
Propagating Amaryllis
Amaryllis bulbs will produce side bulbs, like daffodils. Carefully remove these bulbils and pot them up to produce more plants. Give them a few seasons of growth before expecting flowers.
Common Pests and Diseases
Keep on the lookout for spider mites and mealybugs, which can be treated with horticultural oil. Outdoor plants may be feasted upon by slugs and snails.
If your amaryllis doesn't bloom, it is often because it received no rest period after the last bloom, or because it is not receiving adequate light.
There is also a true amaryllis genus containing just two species native to South Africa. These are not, however, the plants cultivated in the U.S. as amaryllis.
Controlling Bloom Time
If grown in a frost-free garden (zones 8 to 10), amaryllis will naturally bloom in March, April, and May, with fall rebloom possible. But amaryllis bulbs are often purchased to grow as potted plants for holiday bloom, which is only possible if you plant the dormant bulbs at precisely the right time—about 10 to 12 weeks before desired bloom time. When you buy commercial bulbs from a grower for Christmas bloom, these are dormant bulbs that should be kept cool until the right planting time.
If you already have potted amaryllis plants, future blooms can be controlled by setting the plant outdoors to grow through the summer, then bringing it indoors and forcing them into a short period of dormancy by withholding water and fertilizer for several weeks, then restarting the bulbs.
Botanical Name Hippeastrum (Group)
Common Name Amaryllis
Plant Type Perennial bulb
Mature Size 1 to 2 feet tall; 9- to 12-inch spread
Sun Exposure Full sun to part shade
Soil Type Rich, well-drained soil (outdoors); rich potting mix (indoors)
Soil pH 6.0 to 6.5 (slightly acidic)
Bloom Time Seasonal bloomer
Flower Color Red, pink, white with spots and bands
Hardiness Zones 8 to 10 (USDA)
Native Area Central and South America
Toxicity Mildly toxic
Amaryllis Care
The techniques for growing amaryllis vary, depending on whether you're growing it indoors or outdoors, and when you want it to bloom.
As a New Indoor Plant for Seasonal Blooms
Partially fill a 5- to 7-inch pot with a good-quality, well-draining potting mix, then plant the amaryllis bulb so the top one-third is exposed when you fill in the rest of the pot with potting mix. The bulbs should be planted 10 to 12 weeks before you want them to bloom.
Place a bamboo stalk alongside the bulb. The flowers can get top-heavy, and inserting the stake now will help you avoid damaging the bulb and roots later.
Water well, then place the pot in bright, indirect light and keep the soil moist, but not wet. A thick flower stalk should shoot up within a few weeks. The flat leaves will follow as the flower stalk matures. Turn the pot every few days, so the flower stalk gets uniform exposure on all sides and grows straight.
Forcing an Existing Plant Into Holiday Bloom
To force a potted amaryllis to bloom for the winter holidays, cut back the flower stalk after blooming stops, but allow the foliage to continue growing. You can place your plant outdoors for summer, if you like, in partial shade. Keep the watered so the soil is moist, but not wet.
Stop feeding in August. When it’s time to bring plants indoors, in September or October, move your amaryllis to a cool (55 to 60 degrees Fahrenheit), dry spot, and stop watering it. The foliage will already be dying back. If you want your amaryllis to bloom at a specific time, such as Thanksgiving or Christmas, count backward about 10 to 12 weeks, to determine when to stop watering.
The lack of foliage and water will induce the amaryllis to send out another flower stalk. Resume watering at this time and move the plant to a warm, sunny spot. Leaves will appear shortly followed by blooms. When the flowers fade, start the process over.
Allowing Potted Plants to Re-bloom Naturally
To allow your potted amaryllis to re-bloom naturally, cut off the flower stalk after blooming ceases, but let the foliage continue to grow as long as it can. Keep it in bright light, indoors or out. Keep the plant watered so the soil is moist, but not wet.
Stop feeding the plant in August. Bring it indoors before a frost hits it and place the pot in a cool spot in indirect, bright light. The leaves will start to yellow and drop around December. Keep watering as usual and new flower stalks should appear in a month or two. Resume feeding at this time and move the plant to a warm, sunny spot. Leaves will appear shortly, followed by blooms.
When the flowers fade, start the process over. Allowing the plant to bloom naturally in this way will result in larger plants and flowers.
As a Garden Plant
In zones 8 to 10, amaryllis bulbs can be planted in the garden. If your area is entirely frost-free, plant the bulbs with their necks at, or slightly above, ground level. In areas where frost is possible, set the bulbs with 5 to 6 inches of soil above them, followed by 5 to 6 inches of mulch. Water thoroughly after planting, but then water only when the top 2 inches of soil is dry.
After leaves appear, feed with a balanced fertilizer once each month until April. Garden amaryllis generally bloom in March, April, and May. When flowering is complete, remove the flower stalks, but leave the foliage to continue growing. If any leaves turn yellow, cut them off.
From June to September, water the plants only during dry periods. In fall, apply a layer of winter mulch if your area will see winter frost. The plants typically go dormant over winter.
Light
Amaryllis will grow in full sun to part shade conditions. Outdoors, bright shade is the best environment. Grown as potted plants indoors, they prefer morning sun but bright shade in the afternoon.
Soil
Outdoors, grow amaryllis bulbs in well-drained, fertile soil. When growing potted bulbs, use a good-quality, well-draining sandy loam potting mix.
Water
During the growing/ flowering period, water your amaryllis whenever the top 2 inches of soil become dry. Amaryllis requires a dry rest period immediately after flowering in order to reset the bulbs for future blooms. Forcing amaryllis into seasonal bloom requires careful manipulation of the watering schedule (see above).
Temperature and Humidity
Amaryllis are tropical plants that prefer warm temperatures. Outdoors, they are hardy to zone 8, and zone 7 gardeners can sometimes overwinter them in the garden if the ground is heavily mulched.
Fertilizer
During the growth period, feed your amaryllis with a half-strength water-soluble fertilizer every two to three weeks. After flowering, withhold feeding to induce the dormancy needed to reset the bulbs.
Varieties of Amaryllis
There are dozens of different amaryllis varieties, and the choice really depends on what flower color most appeals to you. Some recommended choices include:
'Samba': This variety has large red ruffled blooms with white markings.
'Apple Blossom': This popular variety has blooms that mix pink and white, with green throats.
'Faro': This plant has delicate flowers in pale salmon and white. The blooms are smaller and more delicate than with most varieties.
'Summertime': This plant has large 7-inch blooms in a unique watermelon pink to dark rose hue, with greenish centers.
'Matterhorn': This is a good choice for a pure white amaryllis. The throats are yellow-green.
Pruning
When the flowers fade, cut the flower stalk back to just above the bulb. Keep watering the plant until it goes dormant in the fall. You can move the amaryllis outdoors for the summer, placing it in a part-shade location.
Propagating Amaryllis
Amaryllis bulbs will produce side bulbs, like daffodils. Carefully remove these bulbils and pot them up to produce more plants. Give them a few seasons of growth before expecting flowers.
Common Pests and Diseases
Keep on the lookout for spider mites and mealybugs, which can be treated with horticultural oil. Outdoor plants may be feasted upon by slugs and snails.
If your amaryllis doesn't bloom, it is often because it received no rest period after the last bloom, or because it is not receiving adequate light.
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文章
Miss Chen
2021年07月19日
Sweet alyssum is a colorful carpet of tiny flowers that can be used to blanket your garden or landscape. Native to Europe, the low-growing foliage grows quickly, covering the ground with tiny cross-shaped, four-petal flowers within two months of being planted. Its gray-green leaves are slightly hairy, narrow, and lance-shaped.
Easy to grow from plant or seed, sweet alyssum is a cool-season flower that can be set out in early spring once all danger of frost has passed (in frost-free climates, sweet alyssum can also be grown throughout the fall and winter). Most varieties will fade in the heat but bloom again in the fall.
Botanical Name Lobularia maritima
Common Names Sweet alyssum, alyssum, carpet flower
Plant Type Herbaceous perennial
Mature Size 3–9 in. tall, 6–12 in. wide
Sun Exposure Full sun, partial shade
Soil Type Moist but well-drained
Soil pH Neutral to acidic
Bloom Time Spring, Fall
Flower Color White, pink, purple
Hardiness Zones 5–9 (USDA)
Native Areas Europe
Toxicity Non-toxic
Sweet Alyssum Care
Sweet alyssum is nearly unmatched when it comes to ease of care, and is hardy to both heat and drought. The flowers have a lively, honey-like fragrance and are actually members of the mustard family—they will self-sow and can provide bright color year-after-year, especially in milder climates. Sweet alyssum is generally problem-free, although aphids can become a pest, especially when the plants are under stress.
As sweet alyssum plants spread, they create a living mulch under taller plants. You can use sweet alyssum along edges, in the garden, or to fill nooks and crannies on walkways and walls. The tight, free-flowering plants are also great in hanging baskets and containers.
Light
Sweet alyssum loves full sun, but it does not like prolonged dry periods. If your region is especially hot and dry, a slightly shaded area will work best for this plant, though you should keep in mind that it can get stem rot or leaf blight if too much shade prevents the leaves and soil from completely drying out. Generally, you should aim to plant your sweet alyssum somewhere where it can get six to eight hours of sunlight a day.
Soil
Sweet alyssum plants prefer soils that are of medium moisture and well-draining. They're tolerant of many different planting locations and can even be found on sandy beaches and dunes—though they can also grow on cultivated fields, walls, slopes, and even in cracks in sidewalks or walls. The plants will do poorly in boggy soil or where drainage is a particular problem.
Water
Provide your sweet alyssum plants with at least an inch of water every week, watering them more frequently during hot or dry spells. Make sure the water drains well, otherwise the plant is susceptible to rot. If you plant your sweet alyssum atop stone (or anywhere that dries out quickly), you will need to provide extra water—the same holds true of hot or dry weather.
Temperature and Humidity
In temperate weather, gardeners may be able to grow sweet alyssum all year long, though the actual plants themselves are short-lived. Typically, they self-seed so much that while it seems as though the same plants are surviving all year long, the reality is that new seedlings are filling in. Sweet alyssum plants repeat bloom, although many varieties tend to stop flowering in heat, only to often pick back up again in the fall. In areas of high humidity, you should compensate by reducing the amount of water given to plants.
Fertilizer
Typically, in-ground sweet alyssum plants do not need any fertilizer unless your soil is poor. Plants grown in containers will need monthly feedings using a water-soluble fertilizer for the container plants.
Sweet Alyssum Varieties
There are several common varieties of sweet alyssum:
'Easter Bonnet': An early blooming variety, typically found in lavender or white
'New Carpet of Snow': A low-growing variety, covered in petite white flowers
'Pastel Carpet': A varietal whose blooms blend pink, lavender, and cream
'Snow Crystals': A tidy, mounding variety with translucent white flowers
How to Grow Sweet Alyssum From Seed
You can start sweet alyssum from seed or plant, both of which are widely available at nurseries (though some new cultivars are not available as seeds). To start from seed, simply scatter the seeds atop the soil and press them down lightly so they make good contact with the dirt but are still exposed to light. Keep the soil moist until germination, then water whenever the soil feels dry.
You can direct seed outdoors once the soil feels warm to the touch or start alyssum seed indoors about eight weeks before your last frost date (do not transplant until after all danger of frost). Alyssum is somewhat frost-tolerant once established, but tender transplants are not hardy enough for frost.
Pruning
Deadheading sweet alyssum will keep the plants flowering—they will set new buds quickly. If you have a large drift of plants, shearing them by one-third would be an easier option than deadheading. Some varieties will readily re-seed themselves, but the plants tend to revert to the somewhat gangly species, so pruning will aid in that.
Easy to grow from plant or seed, sweet alyssum is a cool-season flower that can be set out in early spring once all danger of frost has passed (in frost-free climates, sweet alyssum can also be grown throughout the fall and winter). Most varieties will fade in the heat but bloom again in the fall.
Botanical Name Lobularia maritima
Common Names Sweet alyssum, alyssum, carpet flower
Plant Type Herbaceous perennial
Mature Size 3–9 in. tall, 6–12 in. wide
Sun Exposure Full sun, partial shade
Soil Type Moist but well-drained
Soil pH Neutral to acidic
Bloom Time Spring, Fall
Flower Color White, pink, purple
Hardiness Zones 5–9 (USDA)
Native Areas Europe
Toxicity Non-toxic
Sweet Alyssum Care
Sweet alyssum is nearly unmatched when it comes to ease of care, and is hardy to both heat and drought. The flowers have a lively, honey-like fragrance and are actually members of the mustard family—they will self-sow and can provide bright color year-after-year, especially in milder climates. Sweet alyssum is generally problem-free, although aphids can become a pest, especially when the plants are under stress.
As sweet alyssum plants spread, they create a living mulch under taller plants. You can use sweet alyssum along edges, in the garden, or to fill nooks and crannies on walkways and walls. The tight, free-flowering plants are also great in hanging baskets and containers.
Light
Sweet alyssum loves full sun, but it does not like prolonged dry periods. If your region is especially hot and dry, a slightly shaded area will work best for this plant, though you should keep in mind that it can get stem rot or leaf blight if too much shade prevents the leaves and soil from completely drying out. Generally, you should aim to plant your sweet alyssum somewhere where it can get six to eight hours of sunlight a day.
Soil
Sweet alyssum plants prefer soils that are of medium moisture and well-draining. They're tolerant of many different planting locations and can even be found on sandy beaches and dunes—though they can also grow on cultivated fields, walls, slopes, and even in cracks in sidewalks or walls. The plants will do poorly in boggy soil or where drainage is a particular problem.
Water
Provide your sweet alyssum plants with at least an inch of water every week, watering them more frequently during hot or dry spells. Make sure the water drains well, otherwise the plant is susceptible to rot. If you plant your sweet alyssum atop stone (or anywhere that dries out quickly), you will need to provide extra water—the same holds true of hot or dry weather.
Temperature and Humidity
In temperate weather, gardeners may be able to grow sweet alyssum all year long, though the actual plants themselves are short-lived. Typically, they self-seed so much that while it seems as though the same plants are surviving all year long, the reality is that new seedlings are filling in. Sweet alyssum plants repeat bloom, although many varieties tend to stop flowering in heat, only to often pick back up again in the fall. In areas of high humidity, you should compensate by reducing the amount of water given to plants.
Fertilizer
Typically, in-ground sweet alyssum plants do not need any fertilizer unless your soil is poor. Plants grown in containers will need monthly feedings using a water-soluble fertilizer for the container plants.
Sweet Alyssum Varieties
There are several common varieties of sweet alyssum:
'Easter Bonnet': An early blooming variety, typically found in lavender or white
'New Carpet of Snow': A low-growing variety, covered in petite white flowers
'Pastel Carpet': A varietal whose blooms blend pink, lavender, and cream
'Snow Crystals': A tidy, mounding variety with translucent white flowers
How to Grow Sweet Alyssum From Seed
You can start sweet alyssum from seed or plant, both of which are widely available at nurseries (though some new cultivars are not available as seeds). To start from seed, simply scatter the seeds atop the soil and press them down lightly so they make good contact with the dirt but are still exposed to light. Keep the soil moist until germination, then water whenever the soil feels dry.
You can direct seed outdoors once the soil feels warm to the touch or start alyssum seed indoors about eight weeks before your last frost date (do not transplant until after all danger of frost). Alyssum is somewhat frost-tolerant once established, but tender transplants are not hardy enough for frost.
Pruning
Deadheading sweet alyssum will keep the plants flowering—they will set new buds quickly. If you have a large drift of plants, shearing them by one-third would be an easier option than deadheading. Some varieties will readily re-seed themselves, but the plants tend to revert to the somewhat gangly species, so pruning will aid in that.
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文章
Miss Chen
2021年07月15日
Rose of Sharon (Hibiscus syriacus) bears many blooms, and its attractive flowers are its main selling point. As with other types of hibiscus, its flowers bear a striking stamen. Another feature giving the shrub value is its relatively late period of blooming (in many northern climates, it blooms in August). Rose of Sharon is thus able to offer white, red, lavender, or light blue blooms when many flowering shrubs have long since ceased blooming. Late-summer flowering shrubs can help gardeners manage the sequence of bloom in their landscapes.
Rose of Sharon is classified by botanists as a shrub, but it can be pruned to form one main trunk so that it grows more like a tree. It can also be used for espalier. Its natural shrub form is multi-stemmed and vase-shaped. It has toothed green leaves that do not provide fall color. It can grow up to 24 inches each year and can be planted in spring or fall.
Botanical Name Hibiscus syriacus
Common Name Rose of Sharon, althea, Korean rose, rose mallow, Chinese hibiscus
Plant Type Shrub
Mature Size 8-12 ft. tall, 6-10 ft. wide
Sun Exposure Full sun to part shade
Soil Type Moist
Soil pH Neutral to acidic, alkaline
Bloom Time Late summer, early fall
Flower Color White, red, lavender, light blue
Hardiness Zones 5 to 9 (USDA)
Native Area China, India
Toxicity Non-toxic
Rose of Sharon Care
Rose of Sharon is tolerant of air pollution, heat, humidity, poor soil, and drought.1 This species has naturalized well in many areas and can become invasive if its growth is not monitored.
This shrub is primarily used as a specimen plant, hedge plant, and foundation shrub. Its attractive and plentiful blooms make it fully capable of holding its own as a specimen. The ability to shape rose of Sharon also makes the shrub a prime candidate for hedges. But since this bush is deciduous, it is an effective privacy hedge only in summer (select one of the evergreen shrubs to gain privacy all year).
Light
Rose of Sharon prefers full sun. Older bushes may fall prey to fungal damage if they are grown in shaded areas where moisture is likely to be high.2
Soil
This plant thrives in rich soil. It can tolerate many soil types, including sand, clay, chalk, and loam. It prefers nutrient-rich soil but can survive in poor soil, too. Rose of Sharon thrives in a wide range of soil pH from 5.5 to 7.5.
Water
The plant is reasonably drought-tolerant. In fact, if your rose of Sharon has yellow leaves, it could be due to overwatering, rather than to a lack of water.3
Temperature and Humidity
A heat lover, this shrub is also prized by growers in the southeastern U.S. who seek plants that can stand up to summer's heat. It is also tolerant of a wide range of humidity conditions.
Fertilizer
Fertilizer is recommended (although not mandatory for established shrubs). Use a slow-release fertilizer for shrubs and trees, feeding in late winter or early spring. If you wish to grow organically, work compost gently into the soil around the root zone and water it into the earth.
Rose of Sharon Varieties
Rose of Sharon can be found in a number of different colors. These are some popular varieties:
'Blue Chiffon': This cultivar has double flowers with a purple-blue tinge (they're not really blue) that bloom from mid-summer into autumn. What makes the flower so beautiful is the presence of inner petals that surround the stamen, giving the flowers a frilly look. It grows 8 to 12 feet tall, with a spread of 6 to 10 feet.
'Sugar Tip': The name of this cultivar refers to its variegated leaves with creamy-white edging. It has pink double flowers and grows six to eight feet tall and four to six feet wide.
'White Chiffon': This variety is graced with white flowers that are solid: they have no distinct center, or throat, because the petal is totally white. The shrub grows 6 to 8 feet tall and 4 to 6 feet wide.
'Red Heart': This shrub's flowers are ruffled and have a bicolored look with white petals and dark red centers. Lovers of low-maintenance landscaping will be glad to hear that this is a sterile cultivar, so there will not be any seedlings to remove.
Propagating Rose of Sharon
The best way to propagate rose of Sharon plants is by making stem cuttings and potting them.
Cut several pencil-wide branches of rose of Sharon that have several leaves or leaf buds. Cut the stems 4 to 6 inches long and remove the leaves from the bottom half of the stem.
Dip the end of the stem in rooting hormone. Plant the bottom third or bottom half of each stem.
Place a piece of clear plastic over the top of each pot. Water well.
Put your pots in a spot with shade or indirect light. Remove the plastic in seven days. Check the pots every few days to make sure the potting mixture remains moist. Add more water if needed, but do not let the soil get soggy.
Check the cuttings for roots in one to two months. Pull gently on each stem; if it resists, the stem has rooted. You also should also see new leaves form on the branch stems that have rooted.
Grow them larger, at least 2 inches of growth, before planting them in the garden.
Pruning
Although naturally a multi-stemmed shrub, this plant can be trained through pruning to have just one main trunk; thus, some people refer to it as the rose of Sharon "tree." Prune in late winter or early spring, since this is one of the shrubs that blooms on the current season's growth. It is easiest to give rose of Sharon its desired shape by pruning it accordingly during its first two seasons. It can also be trained for espalier (grown flat against a supporting structure).
Also, do not give up on rose of Sharon, thinking it is dead just because it has not leafed out by early summer. This shrub not only blooms late but leaves out late as well, so be patient.
Common Pests/Diseases
The chief pest problem for this bush is Japanese beetle infestations.4 Japanese beetles are somewhat easier to control than many other insect pests because they are large enough to spot immediately before they have done too much damage to your plants. The easiest and safest way to kill them is to pick or shake them off by hand, dropping them into a container filled with soapy water. The insect breathes through its skin, so a coating of soap over its body effectively suffocates it.
Rose of Sharon is classified by botanists as a shrub, but it can be pruned to form one main trunk so that it grows more like a tree. It can also be used for espalier. Its natural shrub form is multi-stemmed and vase-shaped. It has toothed green leaves that do not provide fall color. It can grow up to 24 inches each year and can be planted in spring or fall.
Botanical Name Hibiscus syriacus
Common Name Rose of Sharon, althea, Korean rose, rose mallow, Chinese hibiscus
Plant Type Shrub
Mature Size 8-12 ft. tall, 6-10 ft. wide
Sun Exposure Full sun to part shade
Soil Type Moist
Soil pH Neutral to acidic, alkaline
Bloom Time Late summer, early fall
Flower Color White, red, lavender, light blue
Hardiness Zones 5 to 9 (USDA)
Native Area China, India
Toxicity Non-toxic
Rose of Sharon Care
Rose of Sharon is tolerant of air pollution, heat, humidity, poor soil, and drought.1 This species has naturalized well in many areas and can become invasive if its growth is not monitored.
This shrub is primarily used as a specimen plant, hedge plant, and foundation shrub. Its attractive and plentiful blooms make it fully capable of holding its own as a specimen. The ability to shape rose of Sharon also makes the shrub a prime candidate for hedges. But since this bush is deciduous, it is an effective privacy hedge only in summer (select one of the evergreen shrubs to gain privacy all year).
Light
Rose of Sharon prefers full sun. Older bushes may fall prey to fungal damage if they are grown in shaded areas where moisture is likely to be high.2
Soil
This plant thrives in rich soil. It can tolerate many soil types, including sand, clay, chalk, and loam. It prefers nutrient-rich soil but can survive in poor soil, too. Rose of Sharon thrives in a wide range of soil pH from 5.5 to 7.5.
Water
The plant is reasonably drought-tolerant. In fact, if your rose of Sharon has yellow leaves, it could be due to overwatering, rather than to a lack of water.3
Temperature and Humidity
A heat lover, this shrub is also prized by growers in the southeastern U.S. who seek plants that can stand up to summer's heat. It is also tolerant of a wide range of humidity conditions.
Fertilizer
Fertilizer is recommended (although not mandatory for established shrubs). Use a slow-release fertilizer for shrubs and trees, feeding in late winter or early spring. If you wish to grow organically, work compost gently into the soil around the root zone and water it into the earth.
Rose of Sharon Varieties
Rose of Sharon can be found in a number of different colors. These are some popular varieties:
'Blue Chiffon': This cultivar has double flowers with a purple-blue tinge (they're not really blue) that bloom from mid-summer into autumn. What makes the flower so beautiful is the presence of inner petals that surround the stamen, giving the flowers a frilly look. It grows 8 to 12 feet tall, with a spread of 6 to 10 feet.
'Sugar Tip': The name of this cultivar refers to its variegated leaves with creamy-white edging. It has pink double flowers and grows six to eight feet tall and four to six feet wide.
'White Chiffon': This variety is graced with white flowers that are solid: they have no distinct center, or throat, because the petal is totally white. The shrub grows 6 to 8 feet tall and 4 to 6 feet wide.
'Red Heart': This shrub's flowers are ruffled and have a bicolored look with white petals and dark red centers. Lovers of low-maintenance landscaping will be glad to hear that this is a sterile cultivar, so there will not be any seedlings to remove.
Propagating Rose of Sharon
The best way to propagate rose of Sharon plants is by making stem cuttings and potting them.
Cut several pencil-wide branches of rose of Sharon that have several leaves or leaf buds. Cut the stems 4 to 6 inches long and remove the leaves from the bottom half of the stem.
Dip the end of the stem in rooting hormone. Plant the bottom third or bottom half of each stem.
Place a piece of clear plastic over the top of each pot. Water well.
Put your pots in a spot with shade or indirect light. Remove the plastic in seven days. Check the pots every few days to make sure the potting mixture remains moist. Add more water if needed, but do not let the soil get soggy.
Check the cuttings for roots in one to two months. Pull gently on each stem; if it resists, the stem has rooted. You also should also see new leaves form on the branch stems that have rooted.
Grow them larger, at least 2 inches of growth, before planting them in the garden.
Pruning
Although naturally a multi-stemmed shrub, this plant can be trained through pruning to have just one main trunk; thus, some people refer to it as the rose of Sharon "tree." Prune in late winter or early spring, since this is one of the shrubs that blooms on the current season's growth. It is easiest to give rose of Sharon its desired shape by pruning it accordingly during its first two seasons. It can also be trained for espalier (grown flat against a supporting structure).
Also, do not give up on rose of Sharon, thinking it is dead just because it has not leafed out by early summer. This shrub not only blooms late but leaves out late as well, so be patient.
Common Pests/Diseases
The chief pest problem for this bush is Japanese beetle infestations.4 Japanese beetles are somewhat easier to control than many other insect pests because they are large enough to spot immediately before they have done too much damage to your plants. The easiest and safest way to kill them is to pick or shake them off by hand, dropping them into a container filled with soapy water. The insect breathes through its skin, so a coating of soap over its body effectively suffocates it.
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文章
Miss Chen
2021年06月21日
The Aerangis genus comprises many tropical orchids which can be distinguished by their lovely white, star-shaped flowers. The genus contains about 50 plants, and though they mostly originate in tropical regions of Africa, a few are also native to the islands of the Indian ocean. Aerangis orchids, though uncommon in cultivation, are not overly difficult to grow, even by novices. However, they don't react well to sudden environmental changes, and like all orchids, plants are often lost to sudden changes in temperature or humidity.
Typically, these orchids are epiphytes—plants that grow attached to trees rather than in soil—and they’re often grown in hanging baskets filled with bark chip/ sphagnum moss mixture. The best and most distinctive feature of an Aerangis plant is its waxy flowers, which are usually white or yellow and shaped like five-pointed stars. Not only do these flowers give off a pleasant aroma, but they also bloom with regularity.
A single Aerangis specimen can bear many flowers at once. Their leaves are evergreen, and their spurs contain nectar that is pleasing to birds. Despite their relative rarity, several species of Aerangis plants, such as A. citrata, are sometimes grown by hobbyists, and there are also a few hybrids available to orchid aficionados and botanical experts. Gardeners who can mimic the tropical conditions in which the Aerangis orchid thrives will want to consider this understated and pleasant genus.
Botanical Name Aerangis spp.
Common Name Aerangis orchids
Plant Type Epiphytic orchids
Mature Size 6–24 inches (varies by species)
Sun Exposure Part sun, bright filtered light
Soil Type Orchid potting mix
Soil pH 5.5 to 6.0 (acidic)
Bloom Time Spring to fall (varies by species)
Flower Color White, yellow
Hardiness Zones 10–11 (USDA)
Native Area Tropical Africa, Madagascar
Toxicity Non-toxic
Aerangis Orchid Care
As is true of most tropical orchids, successfully growing Aerangis plants depends on maintaining a proper balance of the various elements on which they depend. They need a well-aerated environment, lots of sunlight, and lots of moisture in the air. Remember to feed them regularly, and if their blooms are insufficient you can always increase the fertilizer levels.
Aerangis plants are especially well-suited to grow vertically on a hard surface, so certainly consider mounting your plant if you grow one. These are fairly simple orchids that beginners should be able to grow with a little effort; just watch out for common orchid pests, like scale and aphids, that may prey on your plants.
Light
These tropical orchids need lots of bright indirect light in order to thrive, but they don't care for direct sunlight. They prefer a bit more shade than other orchids, and the best environment will simulate the light of an open location location on a brightly overcast day.
Soil
A well-draining epiphyte mix is best, such as chopped sphagnum moss with styrofoam or wood chips. A standard orchid mix works well when growing these plants in hanging baskets. Good drainage is essential, as standing water will kill these plants.
Water
Aerangis orchids need a very moist environment, especially when grown epiphytically. Keep them well-watered at all times. A thorough misting every day is often required.
Temperature and Humidity
These plants require warm tropical temperatures above 50 degrees Fahrenheit. These plants are not frost-tolerant, and they don't react well to sudden changes in temperature. In native locations, many of these species grow at higher altitudes in tropical zones, so they don't necessarily need the deep heat of jungle bottomlands. Nighttime temps in the 50- to 60-degree range and daytime temps from 70 to 80 degrees Fahrenheit are ideal.
These plants like humidity levels of at least 75 percent, so they will grow best in a greenhouse or terrarium environment. If grown in an open environment, plan on misting them every day with room-temperature water (not cold water).
Fertilizer
Feed regularly with a balanced, diluted fertilizer during the growing season in spring and summer. Their fertilizer can be scaled back during the dormant season in fall and winter.
Aerangis Orchid Varieties
One relatively popular Aerangis is A. citrata, a variant from Madagascar with yellowish flowers. It’s from those flowers that it derives its name, which means “lemon-colored”.
Some other popular species include A. articulata, A. biloba, A. fastuosa, A. flabellifolia, A. mystacidii, and A. somasticta.
Also popular with collectors are the several hybrids, developed by crossing Aerangis with other orchid genera—the Aerangis genus hybridizes easily with Angraecum, Aeranthes, and several other orchid variants.
Potting and Repotting
Many people mount Aerangis plants on a sheer, vertical surface, like cork or hardwood. If you choose to grow your plants this way, repotting them won’t be necessary. However, they are often grown hanging baskets filled with a typical orchid mix that blends sphagnum moss and fine wood chips. In this case, it’s a good idea to change out the container once every few years. Lift the plant as a whole and try not to damage its root systems, which are fairly fragile.
Propagating Aerangis Orchids
These epiphytes can be propagated by division. Cut away a large section from the stem and replant it in warm, moist conditions. Many gardeners cover new divisions with bags in order to seal in moisture, and you can also treat the cuttings with rooting hormone. Be patient: It can take a little while for tropical orchids to root in a new environment.
Common Pests/Diseases
Orchids can be temperamental plants, susceptible to many pests and diseases, which are more likely to occur when plants are in less-than-ideal cultural conditions.
Mites, mealybugs, and scale insects are common pests, best treated by dabbing them with a swab soaked in isopropyl alcohol.
Fungal or bacterial leaf spots often occur when the plant is too wet or too cold. Affected spots on leaves should be carefully cut away with a razor blade, with the cut edges of the leaves treated with a fungicide powder. These plants have sparse foliage, so this is usually not a difficult task. Viral infections can cause serious distortion of leaves, and affected plants will need to be destroyed.
Flower bud drop can be caused by too much or too little water, or temps that are too low or too high. Getting these conditions just right is the biggest challenge when growing orchids.
Typically, these orchids are epiphytes—plants that grow attached to trees rather than in soil—and they’re often grown in hanging baskets filled with bark chip/ sphagnum moss mixture. The best and most distinctive feature of an Aerangis plant is its waxy flowers, which are usually white or yellow and shaped like five-pointed stars. Not only do these flowers give off a pleasant aroma, but they also bloom with regularity.
A single Aerangis specimen can bear many flowers at once. Their leaves are evergreen, and their spurs contain nectar that is pleasing to birds. Despite their relative rarity, several species of Aerangis plants, such as A. citrata, are sometimes grown by hobbyists, and there are also a few hybrids available to orchid aficionados and botanical experts. Gardeners who can mimic the tropical conditions in which the Aerangis orchid thrives will want to consider this understated and pleasant genus.
Botanical Name Aerangis spp.
Common Name Aerangis orchids
Plant Type Epiphytic orchids
Mature Size 6–24 inches (varies by species)
Sun Exposure Part sun, bright filtered light
Soil Type Orchid potting mix
Soil pH 5.5 to 6.0 (acidic)
Bloom Time Spring to fall (varies by species)
Flower Color White, yellow
Hardiness Zones 10–11 (USDA)
Native Area Tropical Africa, Madagascar
Toxicity Non-toxic
Aerangis Orchid Care
As is true of most tropical orchids, successfully growing Aerangis plants depends on maintaining a proper balance of the various elements on which they depend. They need a well-aerated environment, lots of sunlight, and lots of moisture in the air. Remember to feed them regularly, and if their blooms are insufficient you can always increase the fertilizer levels.
Aerangis plants are especially well-suited to grow vertically on a hard surface, so certainly consider mounting your plant if you grow one. These are fairly simple orchids that beginners should be able to grow with a little effort; just watch out for common orchid pests, like scale and aphids, that may prey on your plants.
Light
These tropical orchids need lots of bright indirect light in order to thrive, but they don't care for direct sunlight. They prefer a bit more shade than other orchids, and the best environment will simulate the light of an open location location on a brightly overcast day.
Soil
A well-draining epiphyte mix is best, such as chopped sphagnum moss with styrofoam or wood chips. A standard orchid mix works well when growing these plants in hanging baskets. Good drainage is essential, as standing water will kill these plants.
Water
Aerangis orchids need a very moist environment, especially when grown epiphytically. Keep them well-watered at all times. A thorough misting every day is often required.
Temperature and Humidity
These plants require warm tropical temperatures above 50 degrees Fahrenheit. These plants are not frost-tolerant, and they don't react well to sudden changes in temperature. In native locations, many of these species grow at higher altitudes in tropical zones, so they don't necessarily need the deep heat of jungle bottomlands. Nighttime temps in the 50- to 60-degree range and daytime temps from 70 to 80 degrees Fahrenheit are ideal.
These plants like humidity levels of at least 75 percent, so they will grow best in a greenhouse or terrarium environment. If grown in an open environment, plan on misting them every day with room-temperature water (not cold water).
Fertilizer
Feed regularly with a balanced, diluted fertilizer during the growing season in spring and summer. Their fertilizer can be scaled back during the dormant season in fall and winter.
Aerangis Orchid Varieties
One relatively popular Aerangis is A. citrata, a variant from Madagascar with yellowish flowers. It’s from those flowers that it derives its name, which means “lemon-colored”.
Some other popular species include A. articulata, A. biloba, A. fastuosa, A. flabellifolia, A. mystacidii, and A. somasticta.
Also popular with collectors are the several hybrids, developed by crossing Aerangis with other orchid genera—the Aerangis genus hybridizes easily with Angraecum, Aeranthes, and several other orchid variants.
Potting and Repotting
Many people mount Aerangis plants on a sheer, vertical surface, like cork or hardwood. If you choose to grow your plants this way, repotting them won’t be necessary. However, they are often grown hanging baskets filled with a typical orchid mix that blends sphagnum moss and fine wood chips. In this case, it’s a good idea to change out the container once every few years. Lift the plant as a whole and try not to damage its root systems, which are fairly fragile.
Propagating Aerangis Orchids
These epiphytes can be propagated by division. Cut away a large section from the stem and replant it in warm, moist conditions. Many gardeners cover new divisions with bags in order to seal in moisture, and you can also treat the cuttings with rooting hormone. Be patient: It can take a little while for tropical orchids to root in a new environment.
Common Pests/Diseases
Orchids can be temperamental plants, susceptible to many pests and diseases, which are more likely to occur when plants are in less-than-ideal cultural conditions.
Mites, mealybugs, and scale insects are common pests, best treated by dabbing them with a swab soaked in isopropyl alcohol.
Fungal or bacterial leaf spots often occur when the plant is too wet or too cold. Affected spots on leaves should be carefully cut away with a razor blade, with the cut edges of the leaves treated with a fungicide powder. These plants have sparse foliage, so this is usually not a difficult task. Viral infections can cause serious distortion of leaves, and affected plants will need to be destroyed.
Flower bud drop can be caused by too much or too little water, or temps that are too low or too high. Getting these conditions just right is the biggest challenge when growing orchids.
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文章
Miss Chen
2021年05月28日
Distribution and habitat: Haworthia is a genus of small succulent plants endemic to Southern Africa. Like the Aloes, they are members of the subfamily Asphodeloideae and they generally resemble miniature aloes, except in their flowers, which are characteristic in appearance. They are popular garden and container plants.
Haworthia pumila occurs in a winter rainfall area, which experiences mild frost, -2°C (28°F). Summers are hot, up to 44°C (111°F). Rainfall varies from 150mm (6 inch) (Worcester area) to 350mm (14 inch) (Montagu area). Haworthia pumila is not an endangered plant.
Description: Haworthia pumila is one of the most impressive and eventually large species of the genus. Haworthia pumila has triangular, rather tough, dark green leaves thickly spotted with pearly white warts. Stems are very short and the many leaved rosettes, which can attain a diameter of 15cm (6 inch) and a height of 7-10cm (3-4 inch), appears to be stemless. A cluster of rosettes form quickly (within about a year). The lower, older leaves of each rosette stand erect, but younger ones toward of the rosette centre curve inward. The 7mm (0.3 inch) thick leaves are about 9cm (3 inch) long and 3cm (1 inch) wide at the base. Leaf upper surfaces are flat, while the undersides are keeled toward the tips.
The flowers are somewhat larger than in other species, greenish to brownish-white in colour and waxy in texture (usually Haworthia flowers are white, but not in this case). The booming season is early summer and seed ripens in autumn.
Houseplant care: Haworthia pumila are classified as succulent – which means that they can cope with relatively harsh waterless hot environments. They are however not frost hardy, which means that for cultivation they need over the winter season either a sunny windowsill or preferably a greenhouse.
They are relatively slow-growing plants that offsets to form small clusters with time.
Light: Never place Haworthia pumila in direct sunlight. If exposed to summer sun, foliage will shrivel. Medium light suits this plant at all times. When the plants are provided with enough light, than the white tubercles from the leaves became more attractive.
It is recommended to move these house plants outdoors for the summer months. Place them in light shaded area, but out of direct sun which can scorch its leaves.
Temperature: Normal room temperatures 18-24°C (65-75°F) spring through fall. They have a rest period from mid-winter to late spring and can survive temperatures down to 4-5°C (39-41°F). In winter, if possible, keep Haworthia pumila cooler – around 15°C (59°F) is the optimum winter temperature for this plant.
Water: During the active growth period water moderately, enough to make the potting mixture moist throughout but allowing the top centimeter (0.4 inch) or so to dry out between waterings. During the rest period water only enough to prevent the potting mixture from drying out completely. Never let the potting mixture become completely dry, however. Although Haworthia pumila are succulent plants, they cannot survive total drought.
Feeding: It is neither necessary nor advisable to feed Haworthia pumila .
Longevity: Haworthia pumila plants live for about 30 to 40 years if they are cultivated properly.
Potting and repotting: Use a porous potting mixture composed of one part of coarse sand or perlite to two parts of standard soil-based mixture. Since Haworthia pumila plants are shallow rooted, half-pots are best suited to the clustering habit of the plants. In potting a specimen always leave a 4-5cm (1.5-2 inch) space between the edges of the cluster and the rim of the pot to allow room for new growth.
Repot in spring at the start of the growth period. After pulling or cutting off any dead or shriveled leaves, move each plant into a larger pot only if the rosette cluster covers the entire surface of the potting mixture. The largest pot size needed will be 12-15cm (5-6 inch). A plant that has grown beyond that size should be split up.
Gardening: Although the plant will survive mild frost if kept dry – hardy as low -2°C (28°F) – it should be protected from severe cold and prolonged frost conditions.
Position: Haworthia pumila requires light shade to bright light, protected from strong midday sun. In shade the body colour will remain mostly green, while full sun will darken it and give it red/brown body colour.
The amount of sunlight it can withstand without scorching depends upon the how hot it becomes in the summer in the locale in which it is planted. It will have more colour if it receives more light. During the spring it may be able to take full sun until the heat arrives at the end of spring. In an area that has hot afternoon sun, it may be able to take full morning sun, but requires afternoon shade or afternoon light shade. Can be sunburned if moved from shade/greenhouse into full sun too quickly.
Soil: Haworthia pumila are tolerant of a wide range of soils and habitats, but prefer a very porous potting mix to increase drainage. A non-acid soil is ideal.
Irrigation: Watering varies depending on the plants position and temperature. Water them frequently when it is warm and dry (but not at the very peak of the heat- they seem to go through a period of summer dormancy at this time) and less to not at all in winter when it is cold. However, Haworthia pumila plants or pots with succulent plants communities are sitting under the grey skies of winter storms and get a lot of rainwater at a time when they are probably mostly dormant. It seems that it is not be a problem for these plants.
Individual plants in smaller pots demand more attention. Water ideally when soil is getting dry and not if wet. When in doubt, best to skip watering as too much is worse than too little. Some pots dry out faster than others, too (if glazed, unglazed terracotta, metal, glass etc – all dry out at different rates).
Fertilising: Do NOT fertilize newly potted plants for the first year. After that, fertilize once in spring, once in fall with diluted fertiliser at half the recommended strength. Avoid summer fertilizing as plant is in a short rest period.
Propagation: Remove the offsets in summer; they should pull away easily. Pot up immediately any offset with roots already attached and treat it as a mature plant.
Allow an offset without roots to dry for three days, however, then press it into the potting mixture. At this stage it should be possible to treat the new plant as an adult Haworthia pumila.
To propagate by leaf cuttings, remove a leaf and let it lie for about one month, giving the wound time to heal. Then lay the leaf on its side with the basal part buried in the soil. This leaf should root within a month or two, and small plants will form at the leaf base.
Haworthia pumila grow readily from seed. These plants have a tendency to hybridize so easily, however, that the results are likely to be unpredictable. Haworthia pumila grows relatively slowly from seed and it takes about 5 years for a plant to reach flowering maturity.
Problems: Given correct treatment, this plant is generally trouble free.
Stunted growth may indicate mealy bags infestation.
Treatment: Occasional watering with systemic insecticides based on Imidacloprid will keep the plants free of mealy bugs.
Rot is only a minor problem with Haworthia if the plants are watered and “aired” correctly. Haworthia species can lose their roots periodically. They can rot with too much moisture, especially when there is a sudden temperature drop.
Treatment: There are two ways to handle this:
1. Simply leave the plant on its side and when ‘bumps’ which are the new roots start to appear (It may take a few weeks), pot the plant in soil and water normally. Mist it occasionally for encouragement.
2. The second method is more like how it happens in nature and is my preferred method. Be sure the plant is in well-draining soil and water normally. In a month or so, gently tug and feel the roots taking hold–if the roots are not holding, don’t worry. Just put the plant back in the soil and wait a little longer.
If the plant has lost its roots and is severely dehydrated at the same time, it may be too far gone to save. But always it is worth a try.
When watering, avoid getting the leaves wet. Like other succulents, it is prone to rot if its leaves get too wet. If they are not, fungicides won’t help all that much. Care must be given in watering, keeping them warm and wet while growing and cooler and dry when dormant.
Reddish colour can mean many things besides root loss. Many of Haworthia turn red when the temperature drops or when they get too much sunlight. A plant can loose their reddish colour turning in green later as the environment condition are changed.
Uses and display: Haworthia pumila can grow easily on window sills, verandas and in miniature succulent gardens where they are happy to share their habitat with other smaller succulent plants or in outdoor rockeries.
Haworthias are small, making them beautiful additions to succulent and cactus dish gardens.
Haworthia pumila occurs in a winter rainfall area, which experiences mild frost, -2°C (28°F). Summers are hot, up to 44°C (111°F). Rainfall varies from 150mm (6 inch) (Worcester area) to 350mm (14 inch) (Montagu area). Haworthia pumila is not an endangered plant.
Description: Haworthia pumila is one of the most impressive and eventually large species of the genus. Haworthia pumila has triangular, rather tough, dark green leaves thickly spotted with pearly white warts. Stems are very short and the many leaved rosettes, which can attain a diameter of 15cm (6 inch) and a height of 7-10cm (3-4 inch), appears to be stemless. A cluster of rosettes form quickly (within about a year). The lower, older leaves of each rosette stand erect, but younger ones toward of the rosette centre curve inward. The 7mm (0.3 inch) thick leaves are about 9cm (3 inch) long and 3cm (1 inch) wide at the base. Leaf upper surfaces are flat, while the undersides are keeled toward the tips.
The flowers are somewhat larger than in other species, greenish to brownish-white in colour and waxy in texture (usually Haworthia flowers are white, but not in this case). The booming season is early summer and seed ripens in autumn.
Houseplant care: Haworthia pumila are classified as succulent – which means that they can cope with relatively harsh waterless hot environments. They are however not frost hardy, which means that for cultivation they need over the winter season either a sunny windowsill or preferably a greenhouse.
They are relatively slow-growing plants that offsets to form small clusters with time.
Light: Never place Haworthia pumila in direct sunlight. If exposed to summer sun, foliage will shrivel. Medium light suits this plant at all times. When the plants are provided with enough light, than the white tubercles from the leaves became more attractive.
It is recommended to move these house plants outdoors for the summer months. Place them in light shaded area, but out of direct sun which can scorch its leaves.
Temperature: Normal room temperatures 18-24°C (65-75°F) spring through fall. They have a rest period from mid-winter to late spring and can survive temperatures down to 4-5°C (39-41°F). In winter, if possible, keep Haworthia pumila cooler – around 15°C (59°F) is the optimum winter temperature for this plant.
Water: During the active growth period water moderately, enough to make the potting mixture moist throughout but allowing the top centimeter (0.4 inch) or so to dry out between waterings. During the rest period water only enough to prevent the potting mixture from drying out completely. Never let the potting mixture become completely dry, however. Although Haworthia pumila are succulent plants, they cannot survive total drought.
Feeding: It is neither necessary nor advisable to feed Haworthia pumila .
Longevity: Haworthia pumila plants live for about 30 to 40 years if they are cultivated properly.
Potting and repotting: Use a porous potting mixture composed of one part of coarse sand or perlite to two parts of standard soil-based mixture. Since Haworthia pumila plants are shallow rooted, half-pots are best suited to the clustering habit of the plants. In potting a specimen always leave a 4-5cm (1.5-2 inch) space between the edges of the cluster and the rim of the pot to allow room for new growth.
Repot in spring at the start of the growth period. After pulling or cutting off any dead or shriveled leaves, move each plant into a larger pot only if the rosette cluster covers the entire surface of the potting mixture. The largest pot size needed will be 12-15cm (5-6 inch). A plant that has grown beyond that size should be split up.
Gardening: Although the plant will survive mild frost if kept dry – hardy as low -2°C (28°F) – it should be protected from severe cold and prolonged frost conditions.
Position: Haworthia pumila requires light shade to bright light, protected from strong midday sun. In shade the body colour will remain mostly green, while full sun will darken it and give it red/brown body colour.
The amount of sunlight it can withstand without scorching depends upon the how hot it becomes in the summer in the locale in which it is planted. It will have more colour if it receives more light. During the spring it may be able to take full sun until the heat arrives at the end of spring. In an area that has hot afternoon sun, it may be able to take full morning sun, but requires afternoon shade or afternoon light shade. Can be sunburned if moved from shade/greenhouse into full sun too quickly.
Soil: Haworthia pumila are tolerant of a wide range of soils and habitats, but prefer a very porous potting mix to increase drainage. A non-acid soil is ideal.
Irrigation: Watering varies depending on the plants position and temperature. Water them frequently when it is warm and dry (but not at the very peak of the heat- they seem to go through a period of summer dormancy at this time) and less to not at all in winter when it is cold. However, Haworthia pumila plants or pots with succulent plants communities are sitting under the grey skies of winter storms and get a lot of rainwater at a time when they are probably mostly dormant. It seems that it is not be a problem for these plants.
Individual plants in smaller pots demand more attention. Water ideally when soil is getting dry and not if wet. When in doubt, best to skip watering as too much is worse than too little. Some pots dry out faster than others, too (if glazed, unglazed terracotta, metal, glass etc – all dry out at different rates).
Fertilising: Do NOT fertilize newly potted plants for the first year. After that, fertilize once in spring, once in fall with diluted fertiliser at half the recommended strength. Avoid summer fertilizing as plant is in a short rest period.
Propagation: Remove the offsets in summer; they should pull away easily. Pot up immediately any offset with roots already attached and treat it as a mature plant.
Allow an offset without roots to dry for three days, however, then press it into the potting mixture. At this stage it should be possible to treat the new plant as an adult Haworthia pumila.
To propagate by leaf cuttings, remove a leaf and let it lie for about one month, giving the wound time to heal. Then lay the leaf on its side with the basal part buried in the soil. This leaf should root within a month or two, and small plants will form at the leaf base.
Haworthia pumila grow readily from seed. These plants have a tendency to hybridize so easily, however, that the results are likely to be unpredictable. Haworthia pumila grows relatively slowly from seed and it takes about 5 years for a plant to reach flowering maturity.
Problems: Given correct treatment, this plant is generally trouble free.
Stunted growth may indicate mealy bags infestation.
Treatment: Occasional watering with systemic insecticides based on Imidacloprid will keep the plants free of mealy bugs.
Rot is only a minor problem with Haworthia if the plants are watered and “aired” correctly. Haworthia species can lose their roots periodically. They can rot with too much moisture, especially when there is a sudden temperature drop.
Treatment: There are two ways to handle this:
1. Simply leave the plant on its side and when ‘bumps’ which are the new roots start to appear (It may take a few weeks), pot the plant in soil and water normally. Mist it occasionally for encouragement.
2. The second method is more like how it happens in nature and is my preferred method. Be sure the plant is in well-draining soil and water normally. In a month or so, gently tug and feel the roots taking hold–if the roots are not holding, don’t worry. Just put the plant back in the soil and wait a little longer.
If the plant has lost its roots and is severely dehydrated at the same time, it may be too far gone to save. But always it is worth a try.
When watering, avoid getting the leaves wet. Like other succulents, it is prone to rot if its leaves get too wet. If they are not, fungicides won’t help all that much. Care must be given in watering, keeping them warm and wet while growing and cooler and dry when dormant.
Reddish colour can mean many things besides root loss. Many of Haworthia turn red when the temperature drops or when they get too much sunlight. A plant can loose their reddish colour turning in green later as the environment condition are changed.
Uses and display: Haworthia pumila can grow easily on window sills, verandas and in miniature succulent gardens where they are happy to share their habitat with other smaller succulent plants or in outdoor rockeries.
Haworthias are small, making them beautiful additions to succulent and cactus dish gardens.
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文章
Miss Chen
2021年04月15日
1. Chunhua is not in a hurry to leave the room
In early spring, the temperature is extremely unstable. Generally, potted flowers should be around Qingming when they are out of the house. Some potted flowers must be around Guyu, such as Bailanhua, Jasmine, Milan, etc.;
Some even before Guyu to Lixia, such as cactus, cactus, fairy mountain, lingjian lotus and so on.
Under normal circumstances, when the temperature is from Qingming to Guyu, the temperature will not change much, and the temperature difference will not be too low or too high. It is relatively stable. At this time, it is more suitable to leave the room. Before leaving the room, you must first "Refining seedlings" indoors.
You can choose a sunny day to open the doors and windows to let them ventilate. The time ranges from short to long. If you encounter sunny and warm weather, you can also move outside to bask in the sun. You should move indoors early in the afternoon to allow it to initially adapt to the external environment.
2. Do not rush to open windows for ventilation
In early spring, the potted flowers have just awakened, and they have little resistance and lack the ability to withstand the harsh weather outside. Some people think that spring is here and they feel very warm, so they open the doors and windows at will to let them ventilate, completely forgetting the damage to the potted flowers by the dry and cold wind in spring.
The new buds that have just germinated, encounter the attack of dry and cold wind, the young leaves of the new buds will be frozen, and in severe cases, even the plants will be frozen to death. Therefore, in spring to prevent cold wind from attacking the potted flowers, you should not rush to open the windows to let the wind out.
3. Do not rush to move the potted plants outdoors
The sun is shining in spring, and some people are eager to remove the potted flowers outside to bask in the sun. Due to the strong light at noon, the temperature around the potted flowers can often reach about 20°C.
However, when I moved indoors in the afternoon, the temperature was too low due to the low temperature, so that the potted plant could not adapt to it for a while, and even suffered from a "severe cold."
Fourth, do not rush to expose the basin surface to night
In spring, although the temperature gradually rises and the weather is relatively warm, the temperature is still so cold from night to early morning, and there will even be frost (more bright frost), and there will be invisible dark frost.
If a potted flower that is not hardy is attacked by dark frost, the flowers and leaves will all scorch and it will be difficult to recover. Therefore, it is safer to take the flowers back indoors at night when they are out of the house, and strive to leave early and return late to avoid death of potted flowers due to frost.
Therefore, when there is no dark frost, it can be placed outdoors overnight to allow the potted flowers to dew at night, otherwise they must be covered to prevent frost at night to ensure that the potted flowers are safe and the branches and leaves are not damaged.
Five, do not rush to fertilize too early
There are five taboos for potted flower fertilization: avoid growing fertilizer, thick fertilizer, heavy fertilizer, hot fertilizer, sitting fertilizer, and early fertilizer.
But some people don’t understand this reason, they are eager to grow flowers, and they are eager to fertilize when they leave the house in spring, and the fertilizer applied is some unrotten fermented raw fertilizer, thick fertilizer, heavy fertilizer, how can this make potted flowers just germinate shoot Can Xinye bear it?
It can only be seen that these potted flowers are "burned to death" by being fat, thick and heavy. Applying thin fertilizers diligently and gradually, so that the potted plants grow full of branches and leaves, and after the plants are strong, they have a certain degree of fertility tolerance and then fertilization is the correct and scientific method to fertilize spring flowers.
Sixth, do not rush to water the potted flowers
The weather has just turned warm in spring, and the roots of potted plants are sprouting new roots and growing new leaves, but the old roots are weak in water absorption. If too much watering, it is easy to rot the wet plants in the potted soil.
Besides, the evaporative power of potted flowers is not strong at this time, so watering the flowers should "see dry and wet, water when watering, not dry without water" as the principle, this is the dialectical scientific watering method.
In early spring, the temperature is extremely unstable. Generally, potted flowers should be around Qingming when they are out of the house. Some potted flowers must be around Guyu, such as Bailanhua, Jasmine, Milan, etc.;
Some even before Guyu to Lixia, such as cactus, cactus, fairy mountain, lingjian lotus and so on.
Under normal circumstances, when the temperature is from Qingming to Guyu, the temperature will not change much, and the temperature difference will not be too low or too high. It is relatively stable. At this time, it is more suitable to leave the room. Before leaving the room, you must first "Refining seedlings" indoors.
You can choose a sunny day to open the doors and windows to let them ventilate. The time ranges from short to long. If you encounter sunny and warm weather, you can also move outside to bask in the sun. You should move indoors early in the afternoon to allow it to initially adapt to the external environment.
2. Do not rush to open windows for ventilation
In early spring, the potted flowers have just awakened, and they have little resistance and lack the ability to withstand the harsh weather outside. Some people think that spring is here and they feel very warm, so they open the doors and windows at will to let them ventilate, completely forgetting the damage to the potted flowers by the dry and cold wind in spring.
The new buds that have just germinated, encounter the attack of dry and cold wind, the young leaves of the new buds will be frozen, and in severe cases, even the plants will be frozen to death. Therefore, in spring to prevent cold wind from attacking the potted flowers, you should not rush to open the windows to let the wind out.
3. Do not rush to move the potted plants outdoors
The sun is shining in spring, and some people are eager to remove the potted flowers outside to bask in the sun. Due to the strong light at noon, the temperature around the potted flowers can often reach about 20°C.
However, when I moved indoors in the afternoon, the temperature was too low due to the low temperature, so that the potted plant could not adapt to it for a while, and even suffered from a "severe cold."
Fourth, do not rush to expose the basin surface to night
In spring, although the temperature gradually rises and the weather is relatively warm, the temperature is still so cold from night to early morning, and there will even be frost (more bright frost), and there will be invisible dark frost.
If a potted flower that is not hardy is attacked by dark frost, the flowers and leaves will all scorch and it will be difficult to recover. Therefore, it is safer to take the flowers back indoors at night when they are out of the house, and strive to leave early and return late to avoid death of potted flowers due to frost.
Therefore, when there is no dark frost, it can be placed outdoors overnight to allow the potted flowers to dew at night, otherwise they must be covered to prevent frost at night to ensure that the potted flowers are safe and the branches and leaves are not damaged.
Five, do not rush to fertilize too early
There are five taboos for potted flower fertilization: avoid growing fertilizer, thick fertilizer, heavy fertilizer, hot fertilizer, sitting fertilizer, and early fertilizer.
But some people don’t understand this reason, they are eager to grow flowers, and they are eager to fertilize when they leave the house in spring, and the fertilizer applied is some unrotten fermented raw fertilizer, thick fertilizer, heavy fertilizer, how can this make potted flowers just germinate shoot Can Xinye bear it?
It can only be seen that these potted flowers are "burned to death" by being fat, thick and heavy. Applying thin fertilizers diligently and gradually, so that the potted plants grow full of branches and leaves, and after the plants are strong, they have a certain degree of fertility tolerance and then fertilization is the correct and scientific method to fertilize spring flowers.
Sixth, do not rush to water the potted flowers
The weather has just turned warm in spring, and the roots of potted plants are sprouting new roots and growing new leaves, but the old roots are weak in water absorption. If too much watering, it is easy to rot the wet plants in the potted soil.
Besides, the evaporative power of potted flowers is not strong at this time, so watering the flowers should "see dry and wet, water when watering, not dry without water" as the principle, this is the dialectical scientific watering method.
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0
文章
Miss Chen
2021年04月13日
Succulent flowering, will it die?
There are always rumors in the rivers and lakes that succulent flowering will die and you must cut flowers and arrows. In fact, there are not many succulents of this kind, such as Sempervivum and Valpine, although they will die, but they will multiply young cubs before flowering.
Another example is the mage of the lotus palm. Although the flowers will die after failure, only the flowering branches will die. After the flowers fail, the stems can be cut off, but if the flowers bloom collectively, they must be dealt with early.
Therefore, whether to make succulents bloom, we can decide according to its variety and robustness, but if you encounter the following situations, it is recommended to cut flowers and arrows quickly.
What kind of succulent flowers must be cut?
The first is the succulents that die if the flower fails. It is recommended to cut the flower arrows as soon as possible, such as Wasong, Mountain Rose, Guanyin Lotus, Longevity Grass, Xiaorenji, Zichilianhua, Black Master, etc.
The second is the weak growth and the fleshy stems and leaves that are not full. Cut the flowers and arrows as soon as possible. If they are allowed to continue to bloom, they will consume a lot of nutrients for the fleshy and ultimately exhausted.
Finally, note that during the flowering period of succulents, the sweet nectar on the flowers can easily attract aphids and scale insects. If you find bugs on the flower buds, cut off the flower arrows in time.
Succulent long flower arrows, pruning position is particular!
When trimming succulent flowers and arrows, prepare a clean pair of scissors, wipe and disinfect with alcohol in advance, hold the scissors against the base of the flowers and arrows, and cut off the 1cm shaft.
If there is water flowing out of the cut flower arrow section, you can dip it with a clean paper towel to prevent wound infection. After the remaining 1cm flower arrow dries up, gently pull it off with your hands, or you can use carbendazim to sterilize it.
Autumn is a very suitable time to raise more meat, and carbendazim disinfection is naturally indispensable. Flower friends can take advantage of the autumn to stock up more carbendazim~
The cut flowers and arrows can be cut with leaves!
Don’t throw the cut flowers and arrows, find a clean glass bottle at home, insert the flowers and arrows into the bottle, add water to the bottom of the flowers and arrows, usually the water is muddy and change the water, the flowers and arrows can continue to bloom~
If the flowers and arrows are full of small leaves, this kind of small leaves can still be broken off the leaf inserts and thrown on the soil to keep the soil moist, and they can take root and sprout in less than half a month~
Succulents that have bloomed, fertilize water during flowering!
If the succulents are growing and healthy, we can keep the flowers and arrows, but we need to pour potassium dihydrogen phosphate once every 15 days, usually 2,000 times with water, and add nutrients to the succulents after dilution.
If the succulents grow flowers and arrows, but before they bloom, the flowers and arrows wilt and die. This shows that the succulents are insufficient in nutrients and self-regulate. Just cut the flowers and arrows in time.
Succulent after flower failure, fertilization renews and rejuvenates!
Succulent flowering will consume a lot of nutrients, and some succulents will not even lose half their life after blooming. Therefore, after the flower is defeated, the flowers and arrows must be cut off in time to add a comprehensive fertilizer of nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium.
Put the potted plants in a place with sufficient sunlight, and wait for the soil to dry up and replenish water in time to promote the renewal and rejuvenation of the succulents. In autumn, the temperature difference between day and night will increase, and the succulents will soon be colored.
There are always rumors in the rivers and lakes that succulent flowering will die and you must cut flowers and arrows. In fact, there are not many succulents of this kind, such as Sempervivum and Valpine, although they will die, but they will multiply young cubs before flowering.
Another example is the mage of the lotus palm. Although the flowers will die after failure, only the flowering branches will die. After the flowers fail, the stems can be cut off, but if the flowers bloom collectively, they must be dealt with early.
Therefore, whether to make succulents bloom, we can decide according to its variety and robustness, but if you encounter the following situations, it is recommended to cut flowers and arrows quickly.
What kind of succulent flowers must be cut?
The first is the succulents that die if the flower fails. It is recommended to cut the flower arrows as soon as possible, such as Wasong, Mountain Rose, Guanyin Lotus, Longevity Grass, Xiaorenji, Zichilianhua, Black Master, etc.
The second is the weak growth and the fleshy stems and leaves that are not full. Cut the flowers and arrows as soon as possible. If they are allowed to continue to bloom, they will consume a lot of nutrients for the fleshy and ultimately exhausted.
Finally, note that during the flowering period of succulents, the sweet nectar on the flowers can easily attract aphids and scale insects. If you find bugs on the flower buds, cut off the flower arrows in time.
Succulent long flower arrows, pruning position is particular!
When trimming succulent flowers and arrows, prepare a clean pair of scissors, wipe and disinfect with alcohol in advance, hold the scissors against the base of the flowers and arrows, and cut off the 1cm shaft.
If there is water flowing out of the cut flower arrow section, you can dip it with a clean paper towel to prevent wound infection. After the remaining 1cm flower arrow dries up, gently pull it off with your hands, or you can use carbendazim to sterilize it.
Autumn is a very suitable time to raise more meat, and carbendazim disinfection is naturally indispensable. Flower friends can take advantage of the autumn to stock up more carbendazim~
The cut flowers and arrows can be cut with leaves!
Don’t throw the cut flowers and arrows, find a clean glass bottle at home, insert the flowers and arrows into the bottle, add water to the bottom of the flowers and arrows, usually the water is muddy and change the water, the flowers and arrows can continue to bloom~
If the flowers and arrows are full of small leaves, this kind of small leaves can still be broken off the leaf inserts and thrown on the soil to keep the soil moist, and they can take root and sprout in less than half a month~
Succulents that have bloomed, fertilize water during flowering!
If the succulents are growing and healthy, we can keep the flowers and arrows, but we need to pour potassium dihydrogen phosphate once every 15 days, usually 2,000 times with water, and add nutrients to the succulents after dilution.
If the succulents grow flowers and arrows, but before they bloom, the flowers and arrows wilt and die. This shows that the succulents are insufficient in nutrients and self-regulate. Just cut the flowers and arrows in time.
Succulent after flower failure, fertilization renews and rejuvenates!
Succulent flowering will consume a lot of nutrients, and some succulents will not even lose half their life after blooming. Therefore, after the flower is defeated, the flowers and arrows must be cut off in time to add a comprehensive fertilizer of nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium.
Put the potted plants in a place with sufficient sunlight, and wait for the soil to dry up and replenish water in time to promote the renewal and rejuvenation of the succulents. In autumn, the temperature difference between day and night will increase, and the succulents will soon be colored.
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文章
Miss Chen
2021年03月31日
Summer came quietly,
In order to add a beautiful scenery to the windowsill
Many friends around
Start a gust of wind
Growing succulents
Or some plants that can be grown on the balcony.
Today
Just share it with everyone
How to protect flowers??
1. White vinegar cures yellow leaves
Applicable species: Camellia, azalea, frangipani, osmanthus, Milan, gardenia, jasmine and other acid-loving plants.
When growing flowers, flowers and leaves are often withered. If it is not for lack of water, it may be yellowing disease.
White vinegar and water are diluted in a ratio of 1:500 and placed in a small spray bottle, and sprayed on the leaves in the morning, spraying once every 2 days.
2. Beer to promote flowers
Applicable species: Foliage plants such as green radish, Brazilian ironwood, monstera, geranium, Chlorophytum, Dieffenbachia.
Wiping the leaves with beer can make the leaves green and bright, and watering on the roots can also make the plants grow vigorously and bloom in time.
Dilute the water and beer in a certain proportion, mix them evenly, and pour them on the roots of foliage plants. Twice a month, the flowers can be fresh and bright.
Pour a little beer in the vase when arranging flowers to make the colors of the flowers radiant.
3. Use waste oil to grow flowers
Applicable species: night flower, rose, clivia, longevity flower, honeysuckle and other fertilizer-loving plants.
Every time you clean the range hood, don't throw away the waste oil in the oil collecting cup. It is a good partner for plant-loving plants.
Insert holes at the edge of the flowerpot. Generally, insert two holes in the pot with a diameter of 15 cm, and three holes with a diameter of 25 cm. Pour waste oil into the hole and cover it with soil. The fertilizer effect can be maintained for two to three months.
4. Soapy water kills insects
Applicable species: all insect-bearing plants.
When there are pests on plants, try soapy water. It can kill many soft-shell pests, such as aphids, red spiders, and ants.
Dissolve the soap with rainwater, well water, cold boiled water, etc., and keep the concentration below 1%. Spray the solution on the leaf surface and back of diseased leaves in the morning, and don't spray it if there is no insect damage.
Soapy water tends to make the soil alkaline, so it is generally not used for watering flowers, but the insecticidal effect is not bad.
The above method is the secret recipe that Xiaon tried. Dear friends, you can choose the right method according to your flower type!
In order to add a beautiful scenery to the windowsill
Many friends around
Start a gust of wind
Growing succulents
Or some plants that can be grown on the balcony.
Today
Just share it with everyone
How to protect flowers??
1. White vinegar cures yellow leaves
Applicable species: Camellia, azalea, frangipani, osmanthus, Milan, gardenia, jasmine and other acid-loving plants.
When growing flowers, flowers and leaves are often withered. If it is not for lack of water, it may be yellowing disease.
White vinegar and water are diluted in a ratio of 1:500 and placed in a small spray bottle, and sprayed on the leaves in the morning, spraying once every 2 days.
2. Beer to promote flowers
Applicable species: Foliage plants such as green radish, Brazilian ironwood, monstera, geranium, Chlorophytum, Dieffenbachia.
Wiping the leaves with beer can make the leaves green and bright, and watering on the roots can also make the plants grow vigorously and bloom in time.
Dilute the water and beer in a certain proportion, mix them evenly, and pour them on the roots of foliage plants. Twice a month, the flowers can be fresh and bright.
Pour a little beer in the vase when arranging flowers to make the colors of the flowers radiant.
3. Use waste oil to grow flowers
Applicable species: night flower, rose, clivia, longevity flower, honeysuckle and other fertilizer-loving plants.
Every time you clean the range hood, don't throw away the waste oil in the oil collecting cup. It is a good partner for plant-loving plants.
Insert holes at the edge of the flowerpot. Generally, insert two holes in the pot with a diameter of 15 cm, and three holes with a diameter of 25 cm. Pour waste oil into the hole and cover it with soil. The fertilizer effect can be maintained for two to three months.
4. Soapy water kills insects
Applicable species: all insect-bearing plants.
When there are pests on plants, try soapy water. It can kill many soft-shell pests, such as aphids, red spiders, and ants.
Dissolve the soap with rainwater, well water, cold boiled water, etc., and keep the concentration below 1%. Spray the solution on the leaf surface and back of diseased leaves in the morning, and don't spray it if there is no insect damage.
Soapy water tends to make the soil alkaline, so it is generally not used for watering flowers, but the insecticidal effect is not bad.
The above method is the secret recipe that Xiaon tried. Dear friends, you can choose the right method according to your flower type!
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文章
莹723
2021年02月21日
Whether you're growing fruits and veggies or herbs and flowers, edging is the finishing touch for any type of garden. By placing edging around garden beds full of annual flowers and perennials, they'll look more polished and your mulch will stay in place. Plus, it will add character and charm to your home's curb appeal.
Installing garden edging also takes some effort! Get your tools together first, including gardening gloves, an edging shovel, garden spade, rake and kneeler pad.
Here are some of the best materials for edging your garden beds.
1.Paver Stones
Pavers made from concrete are nearly indestructible. But they're heavy to handle and time-consuming to install, so plan on a few days of heavy carrying and digging. You can make paths with pavers, or just use them for edging beds.
Pros: Lasts forever and very attractive
Cons: Time-consuming to install
2.Woven Willow
Also called "wattle," this natural edge is perfect for English or country gardens. It's used extensively in Europe.
Pros: Beautiful in the right setting
Cons: Easily damaged and pricey for large areas
3.Natural Rock
Rocks are available in an array of sizes, colors, and shapes, and creeping flowers look amazing tumbling over them! Simply line the edges of each bed, but opt for rocks that are the size of a soft ball or larger for the most visual impact. Visit a nursery or garden center for options.
Pros: Lasts forever
Cons: Takes time to fit them together in a pleasing way
4.Brick
Lay bricks in a shallow trench on their side with the wide side down, or stand them upright. The hardest part is getting everything level. Hint: Use a rubber mallet and line level on a string.
Pros: Lasts forever, relatively inexpensive
Cons: Labor-intensive to install
5.Poured Concrete
This is typically not a DIY job for newbies, as you must build a form, then mix and pour concrete into the mold. Consider hiring an expert, because mistakes are not easily fixed.
Pros: Lasts a long time
Cons: Can’t easily adjust the layout of the planting bed in future years
6.Recycled Rubber Edging
A few companies now make rubber edging that’s pounded into place. It’s nearly indestructible, as it’s usually made from recycled tires.
Pros: Lasts a lifetime
Cons: Doesn’t look great in formal or cottage gardens
7.Landscape Timber
If you’re handy with a saw, landscape timbers are a cost-effective method of edging. They're often pressure-treated to prevent rotting. You’ll need to level the ground and cut sections as needed.
Pros: Inexpensive and long-lasting
Cons: Cannot be used to create curved borders
8.Decorative Fence
Small sections of fence are super-easy for lining a garden perimeter. Many different types and sizes exist including metal, wood, and plastic, so you’ll find the one that suits your garden’s style.
Pros: Easy to place
Cons: Easily damaged, doesn't hold mulch in place
Installing garden edging also takes some effort! Get your tools together first, including gardening gloves, an edging shovel, garden spade, rake and kneeler pad.
Here are some of the best materials for edging your garden beds.
1.Paver Stones
Pavers made from concrete are nearly indestructible. But they're heavy to handle and time-consuming to install, so plan on a few days of heavy carrying and digging. You can make paths with pavers, or just use them for edging beds.
Pros: Lasts forever and very attractive
Cons: Time-consuming to install
2.Woven Willow
Also called "wattle," this natural edge is perfect for English or country gardens. It's used extensively in Europe.
Pros: Beautiful in the right setting
Cons: Easily damaged and pricey for large areas
3.Natural Rock
Rocks are available in an array of sizes, colors, and shapes, and creeping flowers look amazing tumbling over them! Simply line the edges of each bed, but opt for rocks that are the size of a soft ball or larger for the most visual impact. Visit a nursery or garden center for options.
Pros: Lasts forever
Cons: Takes time to fit them together in a pleasing way
4.Brick
Lay bricks in a shallow trench on their side with the wide side down, or stand them upright. The hardest part is getting everything level. Hint: Use a rubber mallet and line level on a string.
Pros: Lasts forever, relatively inexpensive
Cons: Labor-intensive to install
5.Poured Concrete
This is typically not a DIY job for newbies, as you must build a form, then mix and pour concrete into the mold. Consider hiring an expert, because mistakes are not easily fixed.
Pros: Lasts a long time
Cons: Can’t easily adjust the layout of the planting bed in future years
6.Recycled Rubber Edging
A few companies now make rubber edging that’s pounded into place. It’s nearly indestructible, as it’s usually made from recycled tires.
Pros: Lasts a lifetime
Cons: Doesn’t look great in formal or cottage gardens
7.Landscape Timber
If you’re handy with a saw, landscape timbers are a cost-effective method of edging. They're often pressure-treated to prevent rotting. You’ll need to level the ground and cut sections as needed.
Pros: Inexpensive and long-lasting
Cons: Cannot be used to create curved borders
8.Decorative Fence
Small sections of fence are super-easy for lining a garden perimeter. Many different types and sizes exist including metal, wood, and plastic, so you’ll find the one that suits your garden’s style.
Pros: Easy to place
Cons: Easily damaged, doesn't hold mulch in place
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文章
莹723
2021年01月27日
Sowing seed is a simple and inexpensive way of growing new flowers and vegetables for your garden. You can start the growing year much earlier than if sowing outside. When growing salad and vegetable crops, it’s a good idea to sow a small amount of seed every two weeks, to ensure you have a long season of fresh produce to eat throughout summer. This is called ‘successional sowing’.
You don’t need a lot of kit to sow seeds. Many gardeners buy expensive propagators but a seed tray or a few plastic pots, will do the job. If you don’t have plastic pots then try using old yoghurt pots with holes punched in the bottom, or tomato or mushroom punnets instead of a seed tray. Any vessel that can hold compost and allow water to drain freely is suitable.
To maintain an even temperature and keep the soil moist, it’s a good idea to cover the soil with a clear piece of plastic. A bespoke propagator will come with its own clear plastic lid, but you can use cling film, old freezer bags or any clear plastic bag. Use cellotape or an elastic band to fix it to the pot.
Follow our step-by-step guide to sowing seed indoors, below.
You Will Need
• Seeds
• Multi-purpose, peat-free compost
• Seed trays or pots
• Plant labels
• Pencil or waterproof pen
• Watering can with rose attachment
• Polythene bag
• Sheet of glass, or a propagator
Step 1
Fill small pots or seed trays with compost. Use a watering can fitted with a fine rose to thoroughly wet the compost, and leave to drain.
Step 2
Sprinkle seeds evenly and thinly over the surface of the compost, leaving approx 2cm – 3cm between each one, if possible. Some seed is very small, making this impossible. Cover seeds with a thin layer of compost, about the same depth as the size of the seed (the smaller the seed, the thinner the layer of compost).
Step 3
Cover the pot with a clear polythene bag or piece of glass or clear plastic, to maintain an even temperature for germination, and keep the compost moist. Place the pot of seeds on a well-lit windowsill or in a heated propagator.
Step 4
Remove the plastic or glass cover as soon as the seeds have germinated and you can see the seedlings growing out of the compost. Grow them on in a warm place indoors – if growing them on a windowsill you may need to move them at night as temperatures can drop dramatically. The young plants will ready to be ‘pricked’ out when the second pair of leaves, known as ‘true’ leaves, emerges.
Step 5
When pricking out seedlings, handle them only by their leaves, not the stem. Fill a seed tray with compost and plant seedlings about 5cm apart, burying the seedling up to the base of the first set of leaves.
Step 6s
After a couple of weeks, the young plants will be large enough to pot individually into 7.5cm pots, or planted outside in well-prepared soil. Handle plants gently, firm compost around them and water well. Don’t allow the soil or compost to dry out.
You don’t need a lot of kit to sow seeds. Many gardeners buy expensive propagators but a seed tray or a few plastic pots, will do the job. If you don’t have plastic pots then try using old yoghurt pots with holes punched in the bottom, or tomato or mushroom punnets instead of a seed tray. Any vessel that can hold compost and allow water to drain freely is suitable.
To maintain an even temperature and keep the soil moist, it’s a good idea to cover the soil with a clear piece of plastic. A bespoke propagator will come with its own clear plastic lid, but you can use cling film, old freezer bags or any clear plastic bag. Use cellotape or an elastic band to fix it to the pot.
Follow our step-by-step guide to sowing seed indoors, below.
You Will Need
• Seeds
• Multi-purpose, peat-free compost
• Seed trays or pots
• Plant labels
• Pencil or waterproof pen
• Watering can with rose attachment
• Polythene bag
• Sheet of glass, or a propagator
Step 1
Fill small pots or seed trays with compost. Use a watering can fitted with a fine rose to thoroughly wet the compost, and leave to drain.
Step 2
Sprinkle seeds evenly and thinly over the surface of the compost, leaving approx 2cm – 3cm between each one, if possible. Some seed is very small, making this impossible. Cover seeds with a thin layer of compost, about the same depth as the size of the seed (the smaller the seed, the thinner the layer of compost).
Step 3
Cover the pot with a clear polythene bag or piece of glass or clear plastic, to maintain an even temperature for germination, and keep the compost moist. Place the pot of seeds on a well-lit windowsill or in a heated propagator.
Step 4
Remove the plastic or glass cover as soon as the seeds have germinated and you can see the seedlings growing out of the compost. Grow them on in a warm place indoors – if growing them on a windowsill you may need to move them at night as temperatures can drop dramatically. The young plants will ready to be ‘pricked’ out when the second pair of leaves, known as ‘true’ leaves, emerges.
Step 5
When pricking out seedlings, handle them only by their leaves, not the stem. Fill a seed tray with compost and plant seedlings about 5cm apart, burying the seedling up to the base of the first set of leaves.
Step 6s
After a couple of weeks, the young plants will be large enough to pot individually into 7.5cm pots, or planted outside in well-prepared soil. Handle plants gently, firm compost around them and water well. Don’t allow the soil or compost to dry out.
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