文章
Miss Chen
2022年01月29日
Cape honeysuckle flowers are a blazing orange hue, sure to brighten up your tropical garden. It is used as either a shrub or liana and its color and sweet nectar attract hummingbirds. Not only is it versatile in looks, but it also is easy to maintain, making it a perfect idea for a splash of uniqueness in your garden.
The name "Cape honeysuckle" came about because the native region for this shrub is in South Africa, by the Cape of Good Hope. It is a bit misleading: This is not true honeysuckle. Real honeysuckles belong to the Caprifoliaceae family and are found in the Lonicera genus. Other members include the desert willow, northern and southern catalpa, and jacaranda.
How to Grow and Care for a Peperomia Plant
Each pinnately compound leaf is made up of five to nine diamond-shaped leaflets. Whether they are evergreen or deciduous depends on how cool the climate gets in winter. Cape honeysuckle is a fast-grower that can gain anywhere from 13- to 25-inches tall in its first year after a successful spring planting.
Botanical Name Tecoma capensis
Common Name Cape honeysuckle
Plant Type Flowering evergreen shrub
Mature Size 3-10 ft. tall as a shrub; 25-30 ft. long as a vine
Sun Exposure Full sun to partial shade
Soil Type Well drained
Soil pH 5.6-8.5
Bloom Time Fall, winter, spring
Flower Color Orange to orange-red
Hardiness Zone 9-11 (USDA); it can survive in zone 8 with some protection.
Native Area South Africa
Cape Honeysuckle Care
The shape of this plant depends entirely on how you let it grow, as it can either be a shrub or vine. As a shrub, it can be anywhere from 3- to 10-feet tall, depending on how consistently you prune it. In vine form it will travel a lot farther, reaching lengths of 25-30 feet or more. Usually, the cape honeysuckle is treated as a shrub and clipped into a box shape. However, this plant also likes to vine, so consider it for your trellis or pergola.
During the fall through spring (possibly the entire year), the Cape honeysuckle will be covered with an abundance of orange (sometimes reddish or yellow, depending on variety) trumpet-shaped blooms. Once the flowers have been pollinated, long capsule fruits are produced.
There aren't many problems with this plant. If your zone gets some frost, this can cause damage to the leaves and branches. You may run across problems with too little or too many nutrients, which is usually most apparent in the foliage. There may be other environmental problems like leaf scorch. Overall, though, this shrub should stay happy and healthy over its lifetime with little maintenance.
Light
Cape honeysuckle is a tropical plant and does prefer full sun. Some light shade, however, is acceptable, though shaded plants will produce fewer blooms.
Soil
Don't fret about the pH of your soil too much, as this plant can handle both acidic and alkaline soils. It also grows in salty locations like coastal regions and can handle gusts of wind.
Water
Water your Cape honeysuckle weekly if you are growing it in full sun, or just once or twice a month if it is in shade. After a year of regular watering, the roots should be established enough to provide drought tolerance.
Temperature and Humidity
Cape honeysuckle is a tropical plant that thrives in hardiness zones 9–11. It is heat and drought tolerant, but its branches and leaves tend to die back at temperatures under 25 degrees Fahrenheit.
Fertilizer
If you've tested the soil and detected a lack of nutrients, go ahead and use some fertilizer. It is usually not needed, though. It is a good idea to mulch your cape honeysuckle if there is a predicted frost.
Cape Honeysuckle Varieties
'Aurea' features golden-yellow flowers.
'Coccinea' has blooms that are bright red or scarlet.
'Salmonea' produces orange or pink flowers.
Pruning
Pruning your Cape honeysuckle depends on the shape you've chosen for it. If you're going for a hedge, trimming may be required on a regular basis since this grows fast. Cut it back to the ground every three to four years in the spring (or as needed) to help keep it from sprawling. You should also prune away branches that were damaged by frost at the start of spring.
This plant does produce suckers. Clip them away if you don't want them to spread. Less maintenance will be needed if you are using it like a vine. You will just need to keep it trained on its support system.
Propagating Cape Honeysuckle
You can easily propagate Cape honeysuckle with softwood cuttings, which should start producing new roots within two to 14 weeks.
How to Grow Cape Honeysuckle From Seed
Cape honeysuckle grows well from stratified seeds; plant them in shallow trays and covered in sand or seed-starting mix. Seeds will germinate in six to 21 days. Plant seedlings when they feel sturdy; Cape honeysuckle will bloom in the second year.
Potting and Repotting Cape Honeysuckle
Cape honeysuckle makes for great container plants if you live outside the tropical weather they crave. Plant them pots with good-sized drainage holes, in standard potting mix, and increase the container size by 2-inches each time you repot. Bring these pots indoors in colder months, to protect them for next season.
Common Pests & Diseases
Cape honeysuckle attracts aphids and scale insects, both of which enjoy the plant's new growth and foliage. You can rid your plant of these pests with insecticidal soap.
The name "Cape honeysuckle" came about because the native region for this shrub is in South Africa, by the Cape of Good Hope. It is a bit misleading: This is not true honeysuckle. Real honeysuckles belong to the Caprifoliaceae family and are found in the Lonicera genus. Other members include the desert willow, northern and southern catalpa, and jacaranda.
How to Grow and Care for a Peperomia Plant
Each pinnately compound leaf is made up of five to nine diamond-shaped leaflets. Whether they are evergreen or deciduous depends on how cool the climate gets in winter. Cape honeysuckle is a fast-grower that can gain anywhere from 13- to 25-inches tall in its first year after a successful spring planting.
Botanical Name Tecoma capensis
Common Name Cape honeysuckle
Plant Type Flowering evergreen shrub
Mature Size 3-10 ft. tall as a shrub; 25-30 ft. long as a vine
Sun Exposure Full sun to partial shade
Soil Type Well drained
Soil pH 5.6-8.5
Bloom Time Fall, winter, spring
Flower Color Orange to orange-red
Hardiness Zone 9-11 (USDA); it can survive in zone 8 with some protection.
Native Area South Africa
Cape Honeysuckle Care
The shape of this plant depends entirely on how you let it grow, as it can either be a shrub or vine. As a shrub, it can be anywhere from 3- to 10-feet tall, depending on how consistently you prune it. In vine form it will travel a lot farther, reaching lengths of 25-30 feet or more. Usually, the cape honeysuckle is treated as a shrub and clipped into a box shape. However, this plant also likes to vine, so consider it for your trellis or pergola.
During the fall through spring (possibly the entire year), the Cape honeysuckle will be covered with an abundance of orange (sometimes reddish or yellow, depending on variety) trumpet-shaped blooms. Once the flowers have been pollinated, long capsule fruits are produced.
There aren't many problems with this plant. If your zone gets some frost, this can cause damage to the leaves and branches. You may run across problems with too little or too many nutrients, which is usually most apparent in the foliage. There may be other environmental problems like leaf scorch. Overall, though, this shrub should stay happy and healthy over its lifetime with little maintenance.
Light
Cape honeysuckle is a tropical plant and does prefer full sun. Some light shade, however, is acceptable, though shaded plants will produce fewer blooms.
Soil
Don't fret about the pH of your soil too much, as this plant can handle both acidic and alkaline soils. It also grows in salty locations like coastal regions and can handle gusts of wind.
Water
Water your Cape honeysuckle weekly if you are growing it in full sun, or just once or twice a month if it is in shade. After a year of regular watering, the roots should be established enough to provide drought tolerance.
Temperature and Humidity
Cape honeysuckle is a tropical plant that thrives in hardiness zones 9–11. It is heat and drought tolerant, but its branches and leaves tend to die back at temperatures under 25 degrees Fahrenheit.
Fertilizer
If you've tested the soil and detected a lack of nutrients, go ahead and use some fertilizer. It is usually not needed, though. It is a good idea to mulch your cape honeysuckle if there is a predicted frost.
Cape Honeysuckle Varieties
'Aurea' features golden-yellow flowers.
'Coccinea' has blooms that are bright red or scarlet.
'Salmonea' produces orange or pink flowers.
Pruning
Pruning your Cape honeysuckle depends on the shape you've chosen for it. If you're going for a hedge, trimming may be required on a regular basis since this grows fast. Cut it back to the ground every three to four years in the spring (or as needed) to help keep it from sprawling. You should also prune away branches that were damaged by frost at the start of spring.
This plant does produce suckers. Clip them away if you don't want them to spread. Less maintenance will be needed if you are using it like a vine. You will just need to keep it trained on its support system.
Propagating Cape Honeysuckle
You can easily propagate Cape honeysuckle with softwood cuttings, which should start producing new roots within two to 14 weeks.
How to Grow Cape Honeysuckle From Seed
Cape honeysuckle grows well from stratified seeds; plant them in shallow trays and covered in sand or seed-starting mix. Seeds will germinate in six to 21 days. Plant seedlings when they feel sturdy; Cape honeysuckle will bloom in the second year.
Potting and Repotting Cape Honeysuckle
Cape honeysuckle makes for great container plants if you live outside the tropical weather they crave. Plant them pots with good-sized drainage holes, in standard potting mix, and increase the container size by 2-inches each time you repot. Bring these pots indoors in colder months, to protect them for next season.
Common Pests & Diseases
Cape honeysuckle attracts aphids and scale insects, both of which enjoy the plant's new growth and foliage. You can rid your plant of these pests with insecticidal soap.
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文章
Miss Chen
2022年01月27日
Canterbury bells is a biennial that has been popular for many years in European and North American landscapes. It is a medium-sized specimen with an upright plant form. Its best feature is the numerous, bell-shaped flowers it produces.
Botanical Name Campanula medium
Common Name Canterbury bells, cups and saucers
Plant Type Biennial
Mature Size 20 to 26 inches tall and 12 to 18 inches wide
Sun Exposure Full sun
to
partial shade
Soil Type Rich, well-drained, and kept evenly moist
Soil pH Neutral to slightly acidic or slightly alkaline
Bloom Time Early summer, on average
Flower Color Pink, white, purple, and blue
Hardiness Zones 5 to 8
Native Area Southern Europe
How to Grow Canterbury Bells
Indigenous to the Mediterranean climate of southern Europe, Canterbury bells do poorly in the humid climate of regions such as the southeastern United States but perform well in all but the coldest portions of the northern United States.
As a biennial, Canterbury bells takes two years to bloom, after which time it will die. The best way to grow a crop of them is to start them by seed. Here's how:
Sow the seed in a tray filled with potting soil in late winter.
Sprinkle a light covering of vermiculite over the seeds.
Using a spray bottle full of water, spray the vermiculite lightly to keep it evenly moist but not soggy.
Maintain a consistent temperature of 65 to 70 degrees Fahrenheit.
When the seedlings emerge (three to four weeks), put the tray in a sunny window and keep the soil evenly moist.
In mid-spring, begin hardening off the seedlings.
Transplant the seedlings into the spot in the garden that you have selected for them once the danger of frost has passed.
You will have only leaves the first year. The next year, you will have flowers.
Light
Although it will survive in partial shade, Canterbury bells flower better when planted in full sun.
Soil
Mix compost into the ground where you plant your Canterbury bells. This will not only increase fertility but will also improve soil drainage.
Water
Water regularly during the growing season. The goal is to keep the soil consistently moist but not soggy.
Fertilizer
Fertilize in late spring with a balanced fertilizer. Hose down the soil thoroughly afterward so that the fertilizer goes down to the roots.
Varieties of Canterbury Bells
Canterbury bells come in a number of cultivars and seed mixes, including:
Campanula medium var. calycanthema alba: 24 to 36 inches tall; white flowers
Campanula medium Bells of Holland: 18 inches tall; pink, purple, or white flowers
Campanula medium Champion Pink: 2 feet tall; pink flowers
Campanula medium Dwarf Bella Mix: 14 inches tall; blue, lilac, pink, or white flowers
Campanula medium Double Melton Mix: 3 feet tall; flowers dark pink, light pink, or purple; double blooms
Common Pests/Diseases
Common pests and diseases include aphids, mites, slugs, snails, powdery mildew, and rust. Given the height of the plant, it is helpful to provide support by staking it.
The Bellflower Family
Canterbury bells is a member of the bellflower family, so-called for the bell shape of the flowers. Members of the family typically have "bell" in their common names, such as harebell (Campanula rotundifolia).
The Campanula genus is diverse, having not only upright plants such as Canterbury bells but also plants that behave more like ground covers. An example of the latter is Dalmatian bellflower (Campanula portenschlagiana). Such shorter plants are well suited for use in rock gardens.
North American gardeners interested in growing native plant gardens can use a Campanula native to their region. It is aptly named Campanula americana (the common name is tall bellflower). This herbaceous perennial reaches 3 to 6 feet in height and 1 to 2 feet in width and has blue flowers. Grow it in zones 4 to 7 in full sun to partial shade.
Landscape Uses for Canterbury Bells
Canterbury bells are not known to be poisonous, either to people or to pets. It does well in containers. These facts make it a great choice when you need a plant to grow in an urn or whiskey barrel on a deck or a patio where kids will be playing or where pets will be basking in the sun.
More commonly, Canterbury bells are grown in flower beds, where its medium height makes it just about right for the second row in a bed of three rows, staggered according to height. It is also wonderful massed together in border plantings. It is a classic cottage garden plant.
Botanical Name Campanula medium
Common Name Canterbury bells, cups and saucers
Plant Type Biennial
Mature Size 20 to 26 inches tall and 12 to 18 inches wide
Sun Exposure Full sun
to
partial shade
Soil Type Rich, well-drained, and kept evenly moist
Soil pH Neutral to slightly acidic or slightly alkaline
Bloom Time Early summer, on average
Flower Color Pink, white, purple, and blue
Hardiness Zones 5 to 8
Native Area Southern Europe
How to Grow Canterbury Bells
Indigenous to the Mediterranean climate of southern Europe, Canterbury bells do poorly in the humid climate of regions such as the southeastern United States but perform well in all but the coldest portions of the northern United States.
As a biennial, Canterbury bells takes two years to bloom, after which time it will die. The best way to grow a crop of them is to start them by seed. Here's how:
Sow the seed in a tray filled with potting soil in late winter.
Sprinkle a light covering of vermiculite over the seeds.
Using a spray bottle full of water, spray the vermiculite lightly to keep it evenly moist but not soggy.
Maintain a consistent temperature of 65 to 70 degrees Fahrenheit.
When the seedlings emerge (three to four weeks), put the tray in a sunny window and keep the soil evenly moist.
In mid-spring, begin hardening off the seedlings.
Transplant the seedlings into the spot in the garden that you have selected for them once the danger of frost has passed.
You will have only leaves the first year. The next year, you will have flowers.
Light
Although it will survive in partial shade, Canterbury bells flower better when planted in full sun.
Soil
Mix compost into the ground where you plant your Canterbury bells. This will not only increase fertility but will also improve soil drainage.
Water
Water regularly during the growing season. The goal is to keep the soil consistently moist but not soggy.
Fertilizer
Fertilize in late spring with a balanced fertilizer. Hose down the soil thoroughly afterward so that the fertilizer goes down to the roots.
Varieties of Canterbury Bells
Canterbury bells come in a number of cultivars and seed mixes, including:
Campanula medium var. calycanthema alba: 24 to 36 inches tall; white flowers
Campanula medium Bells of Holland: 18 inches tall; pink, purple, or white flowers
Campanula medium Champion Pink: 2 feet tall; pink flowers
Campanula medium Dwarf Bella Mix: 14 inches tall; blue, lilac, pink, or white flowers
Campanula medium Double Melton Mix: 3 feet tall; flowers dark pink, light pink, or purple; double blooms
Common Pests/Diseases
Common pests and diseases include aphids, mites, slugs, snails, powdery mildew, and rust. Given the height of the plant, it is helpful to provide support by staking it.
The Bellflower Family
Canterbury bells is a member of the bellflower family, so-called for the bell shape of the flowers. Members of the family typically have "bell" in their common names, such as harebell (Campanula rotundifolia).
The Campanula genus is diverse, having not only upright plants such as Canterbury bells but also plants that behave more like ground covers. An example of the latter is Dalmatian bellflower (Campanula portenschlagiana). Such shorter plants are well suited for use in rock gardens.
North American gardeners interested in growing native plant gardens can use a Campanula native to their region. It is aptly named Campanula americana (the common name is tall bellflower). This herbaceous perennial reaches 3 to 6 feet in height and 1 to 2 feet in width and has blue flowers. Grow it in zones 4 to 7 in full sun to partial shade.
Landscape Uses for Canterbury Bells
Canterbury bells are not known to be poisonous, either to people or to pets. It does well in containers. These facts make it a great choice when you need a plant to grow in an urn or whiskey barrel on a deck or a patio where kids will be playing or where pets will be basking in the sun.
More commonly, Canterbury bells are grown in flower beds, where its medium height makes it just about right for the second row in a bed of three rows, staggered according to height. It is also wonderful massed together in border plantings. It is a classic cottage garden plant.
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0
文章
Miss Chen
2022年01月21日
Cannas (Canna spp.) are a genus of beautiful, easy-to-grow tropical and sub-tropical plants with showy flowers that come in red, pink, yellow, orange, and cream. Their flowers are very attractive to hummingbirds. Canna leaves are wide and long (resembling banana leaves) in green, bronze, or multicolored patterns. Most cannas grow up to 6 feet tall and occasionally as tall as 8 feet. These plants grow from rhizomes, modified stems that store nutrients and send up shoots.
Throughout their hardiness zone, cannas can remain in the ground as true perennials. In colder climates, the rhizomes can be lifted in the fall, stored over winter, and replanted in the spring. Best planted from rhizomes in the early spring, cannas can take a few weeks to sprout. After sprouting, they grow at a fairly quick pace and typically flower in their first year.
How to Grow and Care for Avocados as Houseplants
Botanical Name Canna
Common Name Canna, canna lily
Plant Type Flowering perennial (annual in colder zones)
Mature Size 1 1/2– 8 feet tall, 1 1/2–6 feet wide
Sun Exposure Full sun
Soil Type Rich, moist, well-draining
Soil pH 6.0 to 6.5 (slightly acidic)
Bloom Time Summer
Flower Color Red, orange, yellow, pink, cream, white; solid color or with contrasting spots
Hardiness Zones 7 to 10 ( USDA); rhizomes must be dug and stored over winter in colder climates
Native Areas South America, Central America, West Indies, Mexico, southeastern United States
Canna Care
In the garden, plant canna rhizomes horizontally in a planting hole four to six inches deep, fill the planting hole with soil and then add a thick layer of mulch. Space rhizomes 18 to 24 inches apart. These plants don't like to be crowded, and if other plants encroach they might refuse to bloom.
In colder climates, after the first frost in fall, cut the canna back to the ground. Carefully dig up the rhizome clumps and store them through the winter in peat moss or vermiculite in a location that doesn't fall below 40 degrees Fahrenheit. Spray the rhizomes with water infrequently to prevent them from drying out, but don't allow them to sit in a consistently damp medium. You can bring container-grown plants indoors in their pots.
Canna leaves have a waxy coating that helps resist fungal diseases. They are also generally resistant to pest problems, although you might find caterpillars or grasshoppers eating the leaves—remove them by hand.
Light
These plants prefer full sun to grow vibrant leaves and flowers, but they can survive in partial sun. Just make sure that the soil doesn't become overly moist.
Soil
Cannas can tolerate a variety of soils with proper drainage. They prefer rich soils that are high in organic matter. A soil pH of roughly 6.5 is ideal, but cannas can handle a wide range of acidic to alkaline soils.
Water
Water your canna once or twice a week. The soil should be kept uniformly moist but not soggy. Otherwise, this can lead to rot.
Temperature and Humidity
Cannas are sensitive to cold temperatures and frost, but they thrive in temperatures up to 90 degrees Fahrenheit. In areas that have relatively cool springtime temperatures, canna growth might start slowly.
In cooler climates, Zones 7 and lower, you can get a head start on the growing season by starting them indoors in pots and then move them outdoors once they are actively growing and all danger of frost has passed.
These plants are native to tropical zones, so they also do well in warm and humid conditions. If you live in a dry climate, you can raise the humidity around a container plant by placing it on a dish filled with water and pebbles, making sure the bottom of the pot isn't touching the water.
Fertilizer
Cannas are heavy feeders. So use plenty of compost or organic fertilizer to keep the plant happy. If you are using organic materials, you cannot overfertilize a canna. Feed monthly throughout the growing season, starting in the early spring, with a balanced fertilizer.
Canna Varieties
There are hundreds of varieties of cannas, ranging in color and size. Some popular varieties include:
'King Humbert': an older variety with dark bronze-purple foliage and large red to orange-red flowers
'Shenandoah': bears deep pink flowers with burgundy leaves
'Tropicana': produces orange flowers with leaves striped with burgundy, gold, yellow, pink, and green
'Pretoria' ('Bengal Tiger'): bicolored orange flowers and yellow and green striped foliage
'The President': very large scarlet flowers provide striking contrast with its deep green foliage
'Stuttgart': produces orange flowers and is distinguished by its bold striped green-and-white foliage
Pruning
Cannas generally do not need pruning, but deadheading the flowers (once they have faded) will produce more blooms. If you prize the foliage of your cannas over their flowers, you can cut off the flower stalks before they bloom to enable the plants to direct their energy toward the foliage.
Propagating Cannas
Cannas are readily propagated by digging up the rhizomes and dividing them for replanting. Do this early in the spring or in the fall.
Carefully dig up the entire plant, taking care not to damage the rhizomes or the roots of the mother plant. Trim the above-ground growth so only about 1 inch extends from the crown (where the stems meet the rhizomes).
Clean excess soil from the rhizomes and note where the old rhizomes meet the new; cut along these joints to separate the rhizomes, making sure each piece has one or more eyes. If dividing in the fall, store them for the winter, then replant in the spring.
Plant each rhizome division in prepared soil at a depth of four to six inches.
Growing Cannas in Containers
Cannas are large plants, so bigger is better in terms of choosing an appropriate container. Choose a container that is no smaller than 16 inches in diameter with adequate drainage holes. A large container is not only important for aesthetic reasons of scale, A large container also gives the plant space to grow a strong and healthy root system, and prevents the container from becoming top heavy and tipping over as the plant matures.
Make sure the container has good drainage, and fill it with quality potting soil. Because cannas are heavy feeders, mix some slow-release fertilizer into your potting soil before you plant.
If you live in a cold-winter climate and have saved rhizomes from last year's plants, you can get a head start on the next growing season by potting up the rhizomes indoors four to six weeks before the last frost in spring. Maintain adequate moisture but do not make the soil overly wet. Move the pots outdoors or plant in the ground after the danger of frost has passed.
Common Pests/ Diseases
Slugs, snails, and Japanese beetles delight in chewing holes in canna leaves and flowers. But the worst pest is a caterpillar known as the canna leaf roller. The canna leaf roller moth lays its eggs in the bud of a growing stalk, and the hatching caterpillars leave a sticky webbing that prevents the leaf from unfurling. Remove a leaf if you see that it's unable to unfurl, and consider spraying the plant with insecticidal soap if pests are present
Cannas also are susceptible to rust fungus, canna mosaic virus, and aster yellows. Observe foliage that appears sickly and discolored. With rust fungus, you often can simply remove the affected leaves. But with canna mosaic virus and aster yellows, you often have to dispose of the entire plant.
Throughout their hardiness zone, cannas can remain in the ground as true perennials. In colder climates, the rhizomes can be lifted in the fall, stored over winter, and replanted in the spring. Best planted from rhizomes in the early spring, cannas can take a few weeks to sprout. After sprouting, they grow at a fairly quick pace and typically flower in their first year.
How to Grow and Care for Avocados as Houseplants
Botanical Name Canna
Common Name Canna, canna lily
Plant Type Flowering perennial (annual in colder zones)
Mature Size 1 1/2– 8 feet tall, 1 1/2–6 feet wide
Sun Exposure Full sun
Soil Type Rich, moist, well-draining
Soil pH 6.0 to 6.5 (slightly acidic)
Bloom Time Summer
Flower Color Red, orange, yellow, pink, cream, white; solid color or with contrasting spots
Hardiness Zones 7 to 10 ( USDA); rhizomes must be dug and stored over winter in colder climates
Native Areas South America, Central America, West Indies, Mexico, southeastern United States
Canna Care
In the garden, plant canna rhizomes horizontally in a planting hole four to six inches deep, fill the planting hole with soil and then add a thick layer of mulch. Space rhizomes 18 to 24 inches apart. These plants don't like to be crowded, and if other plants encroach they might refuse to bloom.
In colder climates, after the first frost in fall, cut the canna back to the ground. Carefully dig up the rhizome clumps and store them through the winter in peat moss or vermiculite in a location that doesn't fall below 40 degrees Fahrenheit. Spray the rhizomes with water infrequently to prevent them from drying out, but don't allow them to sit in a consistently damp medium. You can bring container-grown plants indoors in their pots.
Canna leaves have a waxy coating that helps resist fungal diseases. They are also generally resistant to pest problems, although you might find caterpillars or grasshoppers eating the leaves—remove them by hand.
Light
These plants prefer full sun to grow vibrant leaves and flowers, but they can survive in partial sun. Just make sure that the soil doesn't become overly moist.
Soil
Cannas can tolerate a variety of soils with proper drainage. They prefer rich soils that are high in organic matter. A soil pH of roughly 6.5 is ideal, but cannas can handle a wide range of acidic to alkaline soils.
Water
Water your canna once or twice a week. The soil should be kept uniformly moist but not soggy. Otherwise, this can lead to rot.
Temperature and Humidity
Cannas are sensitive to cold temperatures and frost, but they thrive in temperatures up to 90 degrees Fahrenheit. In areas that have relatively cool springtime temperatures, canna growth might start slowly.
In cooler climates, Zones 7 and lower, you can get a head start on the growing season by starting them indoors in pots and then move them outdoors once they are actively growing and all danger of frost has passed.
These plants are native to tropical zones, so they also do well in warm and humid conditions. If you live in a dry climate, you can raise the humidity around a container plant by placing it on a dish filled with water and pebbles, making sure the bottom of the pot isn't touching the water.
Fertilizer
Cannas are heavy feeders. So use plenty of compost or organic fertilizer to keep the plant happy. If you are using organic materials, you cannot overfertilize a canna. Feed monthly throughout the growing season, starting in the early spring, with a balanced fertilizer.
Canna Varieties
There are hundreds of varieties of cannas, ranging in color and size. Some popular varieties include:
'King Humbert': an older variety with dark bronze-purple foliage and large red to orange-red flowers
'Shenandoah': bears deep pink flowers with burgundy leaves
'Tropicana': produces orange flowers with leaves striped with burgundy, gold, yellow, pink, and green
'Pretoria' ('Bengal Tiger'): bicolored orange flowers and yellow and green striped foliage
'The President': very large scarlet flowers provide striking contrast with its deep green foliage
'Stuttgart': produces orange flowers and is distinguished by its bold striped green-and-white foliage
Pruning
Cannas generally do not need pruning, but deadheading the flowers (once they have faded) will produce more blooms. If you prize the foliage of your cannas over their flowers, you can cut off the flower stalks before they bloom to enable the plants to direct their energy toward the foliage.
Propagating Cannas
Cannas are readily propagated by digging up the rhizomes and dividing them for replanting. Do this early in the spring or in the fall.
Carefully dig up the entire plant, taking care not to damage the rhizomes or the roots of the mother plant. Trim the above-ground growth so only about 1 inch extends from the crown (where the stems meet the rhizomes).
Clean excess soil from the rhizomes and note where the old rhizomes meet the new; cut along these joints to separate the rhizomes, making sure each piece has one or more eyes. If dividing in the fall, store them for the winter, then replant in the spring.
Plant each rhizome division in prepared soil at a depth of four to six inches.
Growing Cannas in Containers
Cannas are large plants, so bigger is better in terms of choosing an appropriate container. Choose a container that is no smaller than 16 inches in diameter with adequate drainage holes. A large container is not only important for aesthetic reasons of scale, A large container also gives the plant space to grow a strong and healthy root system, and prevents the container from becoming top heavy and tipping over as the plant matures.
Make sure the container has good drainage, and fill it with quality potting soil. Because cannas are heavy feeders, mix some slow-release fertilizer into your potting soil before you plant.
If you live in a cold-winter climate and have saved rhizomes from last year's plants, you can get a head start on the next growing season by potting up the rhizomes indoors four to six weeks before the last frost in spring. Maintain adequate moisture but do not make the soil overly wet. Move the pots outdoors or plant in the ground after the danger of frost has passed.
Common Pests/ Diseases
Slugs, snails, and Japanese beetles delight in chewing holes in canna leaves and flowers. But the worst pest is a caterpillar known as the canna leaf roller. The canna leaf roller moth lays its eggs in the bud of a growing stalk, and the hatching caterpillars leave a sticky webbing that prevents the leaf from unfurling. Remove a leaf if you see that it's unable to unfurl, and consider spraying the plant with insecticidal soap if pests are present
Cannas also are susceptible to rust fungus, canna mosaic virus, and aster yellows. Observe foliage that appears sickly and discolored. With rust fungus, you often can simply remove the affected leaves. But with canna mosaic virus and aster yellows, you often have to dispose of the entire plant.
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文章
Miss Chen
2022年01月17日
Candy corn plant is a small semi-woody evergreen shrub that derives its name from the color and shape of the flowers, which closely mimic the familiar bulk candy by the same name. These are clumping plants with narrow leaves that cover upright red stems, from which bloom the yellow and red tubular flowers that resemble kernels of candy corn.
Candy corn plant (Cuphea micropetala) is member of the Cuphea genus containing more than 250 perennials and semi-woody shrubs native to tropical and temperate regions. This species is perennial in warm climate zones (8 to 12), but it is often grown as an annual in cooler climates. It is frequently planted in border beds and cottage gardens, or as an edging plant along walkways, and can also be used as a container plant on decks and patios. This plant is also great for attracting butterflies and other pollinators.
How to Grow a Zebra Plant Indoors
Botanical Name Cuphea micropetala
Common Name Candy corn plant
Plant Type Semi-woody shrub, often planted as an annual
Mature Size 3 feet tall, with a 2-foot spread
Sun Exposure Full sun to part shade
Soil Type Average, well-drained soil
Soil pH 5.5 to 6.5; slightly acidic to neutral
Bloom Time Summer to fall
Flower Color Orange and yellow
Hardiness Zones 8 to 11, USDA
Native Area Mexico
How to Grow Candy Corn Plants
Gardeners who have experienced a mature candy corn plant will tell you it's a centerpiece in any pollinator garden, attracting scores of butterflies and hummingbirds with its tubular, nectar-rich blossoms. Candy corn plants are easy for beginners, as they require little care beyond proper sitting in a warm, sunny garden. They do best in ordinary, well-drained soil.
These plants may become leggy as the growing season progresses, and pinching them back can rejuvenate them and improve the blooms.
Light
Full sun will reward you with the highest bloom count on your candy corn plants. Plants will also grow in partial sun, though with fewer blooms.
Soil
In spite of its delicate blooms, candy corn plant is a tough species that will tolerate clay soil as well as the salty conditions of a beachside garden. Candy corn plants do not grow well in wet or boggy soils.
Water
Once candy corn plants are established, they are drought-tolerant plants. An inch of water per week in the growing season is adequate to keep plants thriving.
Temperature and Humidity
As natives of Mexico, candy corn plants relish hot weather. They aren't picky about humidity, and will grow in both dry or humid climates.
Fertilizer
Candy corn plants are known for their rugged nature and their ability to thrive in poor soils. Supplemental fertilizer isn't necessary, and may cause plants to produce excessive foliage at the expense of fewer blooms. However, spreading 1 inch of good compost around the plants each spring does improve the vigor and blooming of the plants.
Propagating Candy Corn Plant
Increase your candy corn plant collection by taking softwood cuttings from plants in the spring. Cut about 4 inches from a non-blooming stem, and insert the stem into moist potting soil. Place in a partially shady location, and keep constantly moist until roots develop, which takes about six weeks.
If you live in a warm region and your candy corn plant survives from past seasons, you can propagate it by division. This also rejuvenates plants that get too woody after a few years in the same location.
Pruning
Because the flowers grow all along the stems of candy corn plants, you can prune the plant to give it a tidy shape without sacrificing any flowers during the growing season. Cut the plants back hard in late winter to encourage a new flush of growth in the spring.
Growing in Containers
Candy corn plants can grow in large containers or urns outdoors, using an all-purpose potting soil. (They are generally too large to grow in pots as indoor plants.) Choose a container at least 18 inches to accommodate these large plants. Repotting isn't necessary for plants grown as annuals, but when growing them as perennials in warmer climates, it may help to repot them every few years as they fill their pots with dense roots.
Growing From Seeds
As candy corn plant flowers fade, look for papery seed capsules and collect the brownish-green seeds. Seeds won't grow in temperatures lower than 70 degrees F. Seeds need light to germinate, so press lightly on the soil surface. Keep moist until germination occurs, usually within two weeks.
Compared With Cigar Plant, Candy Corn Vine
Candy corn plant is closely related genetically to the cigar plant (Cuphea ignea), with whom it shares a similar size and flower shape. The difference is principally the flower color. As the name suggests, cigar flower resembles the glowing embers of a burning cigar, with a warm red color and none of the yellow hues found in the blooms of candy corn plant.
Candy corn plant is also frequently mistaken for candy corn vine (Manettia luteorubra). Although they are entirely different species from unrelated genera, the flower resemblance is quite close; however, candy corn vine (sometimes called firecracker vine) is a twining, climbing plant. The two plants can make pleasing companions in a sunny landscape, and are sometimes planted together.
Candy corn plant (Cuphea micropetala) is member of the Cuphea genus containing more than 250 perennials and semi-woody shrubs native to tropical and temperate regions. This species is perennial in warm climate zones (8 to 12), but it is often grown as an annual in cooler climates. It is frequently planted in border beds and cottage gardens, or as an edging plant along walkways, and can also be used as a container plant on decks and patios. This plant is also great for attracting butterflies and other pollinators.
How to Grow a Zebra Plant Indoors
Botanical Name Cuphea micropetala
Common Name Candy corn plant
Plant Type Semi-woody shrub, often planted as an annual
Mature Size 3 feet tall, with a 2-foot spread
Sun Exposure Full sun to part shade
Soil Type Average, well-drained soil
Soil pH 5.5 to 6.5; slightly acidic to neutral
Bloom Time Summer to fall
Flower Color Orange and yellow
Hardiness Zones 8 to 11, USDA
Native Area Mexico
How to Grow Candy Corn Plants
Gardeners who have experienced a mature candy corn plant will tell you it's a centerpiece in any pollinator garden, attracting scores of butterflies and hummingbirds with its tubular, nectar-rich blossoms. Candy corn plants are easy for beginners, as they require little care beyond proper sitting in a warm, sunny garden. They do best in ordinary, well-drained soil.
These plants may become leggy as the growing season progresses, and pinching them back can rejuvenate them and improve the blooms.
Light
Full sun will reward you with the highest bloom count on your candy corn plants. Plants will also grow in partial sun, though with fewer blooms.
Soil
In spite of its delicate blooms, candy corn plant is a tough species that will tolerate clay soil as well as the salty conditions of a beachside garden. Candy corn plants do not grow well in wet or boggy soils.
Water
Once candy corn plants are established, they are drought-tolerant plants. An inch of water per week in the growing season is adequate to keep plants thriving.
Temperature and Humidity
As natives of Mexico, candy corn plants relish hot weather. They aren't picky about humidity, and will grow in both dry or humid climates.
Fertilizer
Candy corn plants are known for their rugged nature and their ability to thrive in poor soils. Supplemental fertilizer isn't necessary, and may cause plants to produce excessive foliage at the expense of fewer blooms. However, spreading 1 inch of good compost around the plants each spring does improve the vigor and blooming of the plants.
Propagating Candy Corn Plant
Increase your candy corn plant collection by taking softwood cuttings from plants in the spring. Cut about 4 inches from a non-blooming stem, and insert the stem into moist potting soil. Place in a partially shady location, and keep constantly moist until roots develop, which takes about six weeks.
If you live in a warm region and your candy corn plant survives from past seasons, you can propagate it by division. This also rejuvenates plants that get too woody after a few years in the same location.
Pruning
Because the flowers grow all along the stems of candy corn plants, you can prune the plant to give it a tidy shape without sacrificing any flowers during the growing season. Cut the plants back hard in late winter to encourage a new flush of growth in the spring.
Growing in Containers
Candy corn plants can grow in large containers or urns outdoors, using an all-purpose potting soil. (They are generally too large to grow in pots as indoor plants.) Choose a container at least 18 inches to accommodate these large plants. Repotting isn't necessary for plants grown as annuals, but when growing them as perennials in warmer climates, it may help to repot them every few years as they fill their pots with dense roots.
Growing From Seeds
As candy corn plant flowers fade, look for papery seed capsules and collect the brownish-green seeds. Seeds won't grow in temperatures lower than 70 degrees F. Seeds need light to germinate, so press lightly on the soil surface. Keep moist until germination occurs, usually within two weeks.
Compared With Cigar Plant, Candy Corn Vine
Candy corn plant is closely related genetically to the cigar plant (Cuphea ignea), with whom it shares a similar size and flower shape. The difference is principally the flower color. As the name suggests, cigar flower resembles the glowing embers of a burning cigar, with a warm red color and none of the yellow hues found in the blooms of candy corn plant.
Candy corn plant is also frequently mistaken for candy corn vine (Manettia luteorubra). Although they are entirely different species from unrelated genera, the flower resemblance is quite close; however, candy corn vine (sometimes called firecracker vine) is a twining, climbing plant. The two plants can make pleasing companions in a sunny landscape, and are sometimes planted together.
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文章
Miss Chen
2021年12月21日
Move over common moth orchids (Phalaenopsis) - it’s time for the Psychopsis orchids to shine! These hardy, unique-looking orchids are the perfect addition to any home or orchid collection. The striking appearance of the Psychopsis flowers led to its common nickname - the “butterfly orchid” as they closely resemble large brightly-colored butterflies. The flowers have long, thin petals that look like antennas and brightly colored sepals that resemble butterfly wings.
In fact, Psychopsis orchids evolved to trick insects into pollinating them through pseudocopulation, meaning that male insects attempt to mate with the flowers thinking they are female insects of the same species. During this process, the flowers are inadvertently pollinated. This deception is used by many other orchid (Orchidaceae) species as well including the fly orchid (Ophrys insectifera) and the bee orchid (Ophrys apifera).
Botanical Name Psychopsis
Common Name Psychopsis orchid, butterfly orchid
Plant Type Orchid
Mature Size 12-16" tall
Sun Exposure Bright, indirect light
Soil Type Sphagnum moss, bark mix
Soil pH 5.5 - 6.5
Bloom Time Varies
Flower Color Yellow, orange, pink, red.
Native Area Central America, Southern America
How to Grow Psychopsis Orchids
Psychopsis is a unique genus of sympodial orchids native to the wet rainforests and upland forest habitats of Central and South America. In their native habitat, Psychopsis orchids are epiphytic - meaning they grow on the surface of plants and trees and derive most of their nutrients and moisture from the air around them. However, Psychopsis orchids are well-adapted to indoor growing as well and are generally considered to be a hardy genus of orchids.
When grown in the right conditions, Psychopsis orchids can flower at regular intervals throughout the entire year. Mature and healthy Psychopsis can have several inflorescences with more than one flower per inflorescence. In fact, they can flower continuously on the same inflorescence for up to 10 years! So once the flowers on your Psychopsis fall off, be sure not to remove the inflorescence until it falls off naturally. Unlike some other orchid species, Psychopsis orchids do not require a well-defined rest period to stimulate flowering.
Light
Choose a location that receives bright, indirect light for your Psychopsis orchid. Psychopsis orchids can tolerate direct morning and/or evening sun but must be shielded from the intense midday sun.
Too much light can result in smaller, paler flowers while conditions that are too shady will result in fewer flowers (or no flowers at all) that are small and brightly colored. Ideally, Psychopsis orchids should receive at least 10 hours of daylight, which may require grow lights to achieve depending on your location and the time of year.
Soil
Since Psychopsis orchids grow as epiphytes in their natural habitat, they typically do best when grown in soilless potting mediums. Sphagnum moss or a mixture of bark and organic matter are popular choices for Psychopsis orchids.
Ensuring that the roots receive adequate airflow is important, so keep this in mind when choosing a potting medium for your Psychopsis orchid. Alternatively, if you want to take the guesswork out of choosing an appropriate potting mix, many greenhouses and nurseries offer pre-made orchid potting mixes.
Water
Like most orchids, Psychopsis orchids thrive in moist conditions and appreciate frequent and abundant waterings. However, they should be allowed to nearly dry out between waterings and should never remain waterlogged. Do not allow stagnant water to sit around the delicate roots of the Psychopsis orchid - during watering excess water should flow freely from the bottom of the pot. Psychopsis orchids also benefit from having their potting medium regularly flushed out with pure, filtered water to ensure that the delicate roots are not burned by any salt present in unfiltered water.
Temperature and Humidity
Psychopsis orchids are native to the humid regions of South America and Central America, and as such, they require consistent humidity in order to thrive, and especially to bloom. Additionally, Psychopsis orchids require adequate air movement, as they do not tolerate stale conditions well.
In terms of temperatures, Psychopsis orchids grow well indoors as they require consistently warm temperatures. Temperatures should be kept above 60 degrees Fahrenheit during the evenings, and up to 90 degrees Fahrenheit during the day.
Fertilizer
Fertilizing Psychopsis orchids on a regular basis will help them to grow well and flower consistently. Experienced orchid growers use the “weekly, weakly” rule of thumb when it comes to feeding orchids which states that adding diluted fertilizer into regular waterings is better than feeding a full dose once a month. Apply a balanced fertilizer diluted to half or a quarter strength once per week for the best results.
In fact, Psychopsis orchids evolved to trick insects into pollinating them through pseudocopulation, meaning that male insects attempt to mate with the flowers thinking they are female insects of the same species. During this process, the flowers are inadvertently pollinated. This deception is used by many other orchid (Orchidaceae) species as well including the fly orchid (Ophrys insectifera) and the bee orchid (Ophrys apifera).
Botanical Name Psychopsis
Common Name Psychopsis orchid, butterfly orchid
Plant Type Orchid
Mature Size 12-16" tall
Sun Exposure Bright, indirect light
Soil Type Sphagnum moss, bark mix
Soil pH 5.5 - 6.5
Bloom Time Varies
Flower Color Yellow, orange, pink, red.
Native Area Central America, Southern America
How to Grow Psychopsis Orchids
Psychopsis is a unique genus of sympodial orchids native to the wet rainforests and upland forest habitats of Central and South America. In their native habitat, Psychopsis orchids are epiphytic - meaning they grow on the surface of plants and trees and derive most of their nutrients and moisture from the air around them. However, Psychopsis orchids are well-adapted to indoor growing as well and are generally considered to be a hardy genus of orchids.
When grown in the right conditions, Psychopsis orchids can flower at regular intervals throughout the entire year. Mature and healthy Psychopsis can have several inflorescences with more than one flower per inflorescence. In fact, they can flower continuously on the same inflorescence for up to 10 years! So once the flowers on your Psychopsis fall off, be sure not to remove the inflorescence until it falls off naturally. Unlike some other orchid species, Psychopsis orchids do not require a well-defined rest period to stimulate flowering.
Light
Choose a location that receives bright, indirect light for your Psychopsis orchid. Psychopsis orchids can tolerate direct morning and/or evening sun but must be shielded from the intense midday sun.
Too much light can result in smaller, paler flowers while conditions that are too shady will result in fewer flowers (or no flowers at all) that are small and brightly colored. Ideally, Psychopsis orchids should receive at least 10 hours of daylight, which may require grow lights to achieve depending on your location and the time of year.
Soil
Since Psychopsis orchids grow as epiphytes in their natural habitat, they typically do best when grown in soilless potting mediums. Sphagnum moss or a mixture of bark and organic matter are popular choices for Psychopsis orchids.
Ensuring that the roots receive adequate airflow is important, so keep this in mind when choosing a potting medium for your Psychopsis orchid. Alternatively, if you want to take the guesswork out of choosing an appropriate potting mix, many greenhouses and nurseries offer pre-made orchid potting mixes.
Water
Like most orchids, Psychopsis orchids thrive in moist conditions and appreciate frequent and abundant waterings. However, they should be allowed to nearly dry out between waterings and should never remain waterlogged. Do not allow stagnant water to sit around the delicate roots of the Psychopsis orchid - during watering excess water should flow freely from the bottom of the pot. Psychopsis orchids also benefit from having their potting medium regularly flushed out with pure, filtered water to ensure that the delicate roots are not burned by any salt present in unfiltered water.
Temperature and Humidity
Psychopsis orchids are native to the humid regions of South America and Central America, and as such, they require consistent humidity in order to thrive, and especially to bloom. Additionally, Psychopsis orchids require adequate air movement, as they do not tolerate stale conditions well.
In terms of temperatures, Psychopsis orchids grow well indoors as they require consistently warm temperatures. Temperatures should be kept above 60 degrees Fahrenheit during the evenings, and up to 90 degrees Fahrenheit during the day.
Fertilizer
Fertilizing Psychopsis orchids on a regular basis will help them to grow well and flower consistently. Experienced orchid growers use the “weekly, weakly” rule of thumb when it comes to feeding orchids which states that adding diluted fertilizer into regular waterings is better than feeding a full dose once a month. Apply a balanced fertilizer diluted to half or a quarter strength once per week for the best results.
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文章
Miss Chen
2021年12月01日
The show-stopping hanging bugle-shaped flowers of brugmansia make this plant a delight for any garden. Grown either as a woody shrub or small tree, brugmansia is a tropical plant native to Central and South America. Brugmansia is best planted in mid-spring when temperatures outdoors no longer drop below 50 degrees at night. The plant will grow very quickly, often growing between 24 to 36 inches a year. All parts of the brugmansia plant are toxic to humans, dogs, and cats.1 It is also an invasive plant in Australia, New Zealand, Central America, the Caribbean, and the Pacific Islands.
Common Name Brugmansia, trumpet of death
Botanical Name Brugmansia
Family Solanaceae
Plant Type Perennial, shrub
Mature Size 6–20 ft. tall, 3–15 ft. wide
Sun Exposure Full
Soil Type Moist but well-drained
Soil pH Acidic
Bloom Time Summer, fall
Flower Color White, yellow, orange, pink, peach
Hardiness Zones 8–10 (USDA)
Native Area South America, Central America
Toxicity Toxic to people, toxic to pets
Brugmansia Care
Brugmansia can take the form of a shrub or small tree, depending on the area in which it's grown. Its leaves are 6 to 8 inches long, arranged alternately on the stems, and it's known for its spectacular drooping flowers, which can grow up to 20 inches long.
In cooler zones, brugmansia can be grown as a container plant and brought indoors when temperatures drop. The flowers produce a strong, fragrant scent, most noticeable at night. Hummingbirds are also drawn to its flowers and fragrance.
Light
Generally, brugmansia does well in a spot that boasts full sun. However, in especially hot or dry environments, it can stand to have a bit of shade, especially during the warmer afternoon hours. Regardless of the location, though, you should aim to allow the plant between six and eight hours of sunlight daily for it to thrive.
Soil
Brugmansia is perhaps least picky about the soil it grows in. It can exist happily in almost any blend, from sand and clay to loam and richly organic mixtures. The most important factor lies in the soil's drainage. Brugmansia does not like to be waterlogged but prefers consistently moist soil, so there's a delicate balance. If growing in pots, brugmansia will typically do well in a potting mix designed for azaleas and camellias.
Water
This is a very thirsty plant that needs to be watered well—and often. If growing brugmansia in a pot, ensure there are ample drainage holes at the base so the plant doesn't get waterlogged. Root rot can occur if the soil becomes soggy. The exact watering cadence for your plant will depend on the weather and the method of planting (container vs. in ground). Brugmansia needs more water when the weather is warm. Plants housed in a container may need to be watered twice a day during the peak of summer. Ultimately, never let the soil dry out, and you should aim to grant your plant at least three inches of water a week.
Temperature and Humidity
Generally, brugmansia can withstand moderate to warm temperatures and should not be kept outdoors if the temperatures dip below 40 degrees Fahrenheit. If you live in an environment where fall or winter gets cold, plant your brugmansia in a container that you can move to a dark, frost-free place (like a garage) before the first frost of the season. You can allow it to go dormant.
Fertilizer
Like many other plants with large, spectacular blooms, brugmansia should be fertilized at least once a week (larger plants can even be fertilized two to three times a week). Use a water-soluble fertilizer, and avoid slow-release formulas, as these do not work fast enough for the plant. Bloom-boosting fertilizers, such as 15-30-15 or 10-50-10 mixture, are best.
Types of Brugmansia
Brugmansia species have distinctive, drooping flowers, and most have sweetly scented blooms at night. The biggest difference between species is color.
Brugmansia suaveolens: Native to Brazil; this cream-colored blooming plant is one of the most popular species.
Brugmansia aurea: This plant sports yellow blooms and is often called a golden trumpet. It's native to Ecuador and Venezuela.
Brugmansia sanguine: This red-flowering species lacks a scent and is commonly pollinated by long-billed hummingbirds. It is native to Colombia and Chile.
Brugmansia vulcanicola: Native to the Andean Mountains range from Colombia to Ecuador, this salmon-colored specimen is considered the rarest of the brugmansia. Its 'Rosa Lila' hybrid is a rose-colored cultivar.
Brugmansia arborea: This plant features the shortest trumpet flowers, often a whiter cream color than most. This plant is native to the countries along the Andes Mountains range.
Pruning
Although they do not require pruning, trimming brugmansia will keep the plant producing flowers constantly. If growing it as a small tree, begin to prune when the main trunk forms its first "Y" and choose a central leader as the trunk. Systematically prune away older branches and stems to encourage the plant to produce more branches. Flowers will eventually appear on the terminal ends of the stems. The best time to prune brugmansia is typically in the fall. Keep at least six to 10 nodes on the branches.
If your shrub is getting too tall, you can easily train a container-grown brugmansia tree into a smaller shrub size. Pruning your container brugmansia to a desired height or shape will not affect the size or frequency of the flowers.
Propagating Brugmansia
Brugmansia can be propagated through seeds and cuttings. The best time to get a stem cutting is in the morning. Attempt propagation in the spring for the best success. Stem cuttings are the best method because the plant matures quicker than from seed. Here's how to propagate from stem cutting:
You will need potting soil, a pot, gloves, pruning shears, and optionally, rooting hormone.
Don the gloves and cut a stem, measuring back 10 inches from the tip of the selected cutting. Make a cut 1/4-inch below a set of leaves using the pruning shears. Strip off the bottom set of leaves just above the cut to expose the leaf nodes.
Apply rooting hormone to the cut end and bury the cut end in moistened potting soil. Firmly pack the soil around the stem to hold it up.
Put the pot in a slightly shady spot, and cover the pot with plastic. Water the plant from the bottom by placing the pot with its bottom-set drainage holes in a tray of water.
After a few weeks, the cutting will develop a good root system and be transplanted into the garden or a larger pot.
How to Grow Brugmansia From Seed
Moisten a quality potting mix in a pot and lay the seed on the soil surface. Cover with about a quarter to one-half inch of soil. Keep the soil moist. Place the pot in a warm place and look for signs of germination. Germination can take from two weeks to several months, but most seedlings will emerge within a month.
Potting and Repotting Brugmansia
Brugmansias can grow well in containers and are the way to go if you plan to keep it outdoors in a non-tropical zone. You will need to bring it if the temperatures drop lower than 50 F. Plant brugmansia in a 24-inch diameter container. Keep your potted brugmansia thoroughly watered while outside. Potted plants need more water than in-ground plants. Expect to water your outdoor brugmansia at least twice a day at the height of the season's hot, sunny days. Most brugmansias will not grow to their full height if they are grown in a container. At the most, the typical container-grown brugmansia will reach about 12 feet. Keep the plant pruned to maintain that size. Potted brugmansia should be gradually repotted as it grows to its final container—about 20 gallons in size.
Overwintering
Once winter sets in and outdoor temps drop below 50 F, bring in your brugmansia. You can treat it as a houseplant or allow it to go into dormancy. As a houseplant, give it light and water. Water it when the soil dries out, like any other houseplant. It may not flower while inside, but the foliage will look nice.
If you decide to allow it to go dormant, place it in a dark garage, basement, or closet (not colder than 50 F). You can trim it back by one-third and not harm the plant. Only water it sparingly about once a month. It may lose its leaves and look dead, but as long as the trunk is green, it's still alive. As spring approaches, about a month before you can reintroduce the plant to the outdoors, gradually increase watering (about once a week). Put the plant in a sunny spot or give it a grow light for at least 8 hours. In about one week, you should notice some new leaves or branch growth. After you put the plant back outside, its growth will boom, and you will notice its signature flowers within weeks.
Common Pests
Whiteflies are a big problem for brugmansia.3 Cabbage worms, spider mites, and aphids are also common. Other pests that may appear include cucumber beetles (in the midwestern United States), slugs and snails, fungus gnats (inside), and mealybugs. To treat these pest infestations, use isopropyl (rubbing) alcohol on a cotton ball or cotton swab to dab the insects. Another option, make a spray solution of equal parts water and isopropyl alcohol and spray the plant. You can also treat the plant with neem oil or insecticidal soap to repel pests.
How to Get Brugmansia to Bloom
Only a mature brugmansia will bloom. If you started your plant from seeds, it could take up to five years before you see blooms. If you started your brugmansia from a cutting, it might speed up the process, but it can still take about four years. Brugmansia needs ample water to produce blooms and good drainage for good root health. Brugmansia is also a heavy feeder, requiring fertilizer regularly. If all of these factors are met, make sure that it's not root-bound. If it's in too small a container, it may not produce flowers. Move it to a larger container, water, and feed it.
Common Problems With Brugmansia
This plant requires little care and eventually yields some of the most noteworthy blossoms, however, brugmansia is susceptible to pests and diseases that can compromise the health and longevity of the plant.
Stunted Plant Growth and Blotches
Mosaic virus and tomato spotted wilt are common viruses that affect plants in the Solanaceae family. They both can cause stunted plant growth and irregular streaking or blotches. Though the plant may survive and bounce back with proper care, these viruses are permanent and cannot be cured. Avoid planting angel trumpets next to heirloom tomatoes or tobacco plants (Nicotiana spp.) to prevent these viruses.
Wilting Leaves
Fusarium and verticillium wilt are two fungal infections. Both fungi affect the roots and travel up the stem, stopping water from entering the plant and causes wilted foliage. Fusarium wilt usually occurs in warm weather, while verticillium is more common in cooler temperatures. There is no cure; you can only manage the disease. The fungi can live in the soil for a long time. The best bet is to start with new plants and new soil.
Blackening Leaves and Smelly Odor
Root rot is a common fungal disease caused by excessive watering. You can prevent root rot by keeping the potting mix moist but never soggy. Decrease watering when temperatures drop in late summer or autumn. Root rot can be deadly, but if caught early enough, you might be able to save the plant. Pull the root ball out of the container; cut away rotten, mushy roots; sterilize the potting container; and plant the healthy portion of root in fresh, well-draining soil.
Common Name Brugmansia, trumpet of death
Botanical Name Brugmansia
Family Solanaceae
Plant Type Perennial, shrub
Mature Size 6–20 ft. tall, 3–15 ft. wide
Sun Exposure Full
Soil Type Moist but well-drained
Soil pH Acidic
Bloom Time Summer, fall
Flower Color White, yellow, orange, pink, peach
Hardiness Zones 8–10 (USDA)
Native Area South America, Central America
Toxicity Toxic to people, toxic to pets
Brugmansia Care
Brugmansia can take the form of a shrub or small tree, depending on the area in which it's grown. Its leaves are 6 to 8 inches long, arranged alternately on the stems, and it's known for its spectacular drooping flowers, which can grow up to 20 inches long.
In cooler zones, brugmansia can be grown as a container plant and brought indoors when temperatures drop. The flowers produce a strong, fragrant scent, most noticeable at night. Hummingbirds are also drawn to its flowers and fragrance.
Light
Generally, brugmansia does well in a spot that boasts full sun. However, in especially hot or dry environments, it can stand to have a bit of shade, especially during the warmer afternoon hours. Regardless of the location, though, you should aim to allow the plant between six and eight hours of sunlight daily for it to thrive.
Soil
Brugmansia is perhaps least picky about the soil it grows in. It can exist happily in almost any blend, from sand and clay to loam and richly organic mixtures. The most important factor lies in the soil's drainage. Brugmansia does not like to be waterlogged but prefers consistently moist soil, so there's a delicate balance. If growing in pots, brugmansia will typically do well in a potting mix designed for azaleas and camellias.
Water
This is a very thirsty plant that needs to be watered well—and often. If growing brugmansia in a pot, ensure there are ample drainage holes at the base so the plant doesn't get waterlogged. Root rot can occur if the soil becomes soggy. The exact watering cadence for your plant will depend on the weather and the method of planting (container vs. in ground). Brugmansia needs more water when the weather is warm. Plants housed in a container may need to be watered twice a day during the peak of summer. Ultimately, never let the soil dry out, and you should aim to grant your plant at least three inches of water a week.
Temperature and Humidity
Generally, brugmansia can withstand moderate to warm temperatures and should not be kept outdoors if the temperatures dip below 40 degrees Fahrenheit. If you live in an environment where fall or winter gets cold, plant your brugmansia in a container that you can move to a dark, frost-free place (like a garage) before the first frost of the season. You can allow it to go dormant.
Fertilizer
Like many other plants with large, spectacular blooms, brugmansia should be fertilized at least once a week (larger plants can even be fertilized two to three times a week). Use a water-soluble fertilizer, and avoid slow-release formulas, as these do not work fast enough for the plant. Bloom-boosting fertilizers, such as 15-30-15 or 10-50-10 mixture, are best.
Types of Brugmansia
Brugmansia species have distinctive, drooping flowers, and most have sweetly scented blooms at night. The biggest difference between species is color.
Brugmansia suaveolens: Native to Brazil; this cream-colored blooming plant is one of the most popular species.
Brugmansia aurea: This plant sports yellow blooms and is often called a golden trumpet. It's native to Ecuador and Venezuela.
Brugmansia sanguine: This red-flowering species lacks a scent and is commonly pollinated by long-billed hummingbirds. It is native to Colombia and Chile.
Brugmansia vulcanicola: Native to the Andean Mountains range from Colombia to Ecuador, this salmon-colored specimen is considered the rarest of the brugmansia. Its 'Rosa Lila' hybrid is a rose-colored cultivar.
Brugmansia arborea: This plant features the shortest trumpet flowers, often a whiter cream color than most. This plant is native to the countries along the Andes Mountains range.
Pruning
Although they do not require pruning, trimming brugmansia will keep the plant producing flowers constantly. If growing it as a small tree, begin to prune when the main trunk forms its first "Y" and choose a central leader as the trunk. Systematically prune away older branches and stems to encourage the plant to produce more branches. Flowers will eventually appear on the terminal ends of the stems. The best time to prune brugmansia is typically in the fall. Keep at least six to 10 nodes on the branches.
If your shrub is getting too tall, you can easily train a container-grown brugmansia tree into a smaller shrub size. Pruning your container brugmansia to a desired height or shape will not affect the size or frequency of the flowers.
Propagating Brugmansia
Brugmansia can be propagated through seeds and cuttings. The best time to get a stem cutting is in the morning. Attempt propagation in the spring for the best success. Stem cuttings are the best method because the plant matures quicker than from seed. Here's how to propagate from stem cutting:
You will need potting soil, a pot, gloves, pruning shears, and optionally, rooting hormone.
Don the gloves and cut a stem, measuring back 10 inches from the tip of the selected cutting. Make a cut 1/4-inch below a set of leaves using the pruning shears. Strip off the bottom set of leaves just above the cut to expose the leaf nodes.
Apply rooting hormone to the cut end and bury the cut end in moistened potting soil. Firmly pack the soil around the stem to hold it up.
Put the pot in a slightly shady spot, and cover the pot with plastic. Water the plant from the bottom by placing the pot with its bottom-set drainage holes in a tray of water.
After a few weeks, the cutting will develop a good root system and be transplanted into the garden or a larger pot.
How to Grow Brugmansia From Seed
Moisten a quality potting mix in a pot and lay the seed on the soil surface. Cover with about a quarter to one-half inch of soil. Keep the soil moist. Place the pot in a warm place and look for signs of germination. Germination can take from two weeks to several months, but most seedlings will emerge within a month.
Potting and Repotting Brugmansia
Brugmansias can grow well in containers and are the way to go if you plan to keep it outdoors in a non-tropical zone. You will need to bring it if the temperatures drop lower than 50 F. Plant brugmansia in a 24-inch diameter container. Keep your potted brugmansia thoroughly watered while outside. Potted plants need more water than in-ground plants. Expect to water your outdoor brugmansia at least twice a day at the height of the season's hot, sunny days. Most brugmansias will not grow to their full height if they are grown in a container. At the most, the typical container-grown brugmansia will reach about 12 feet. Keep the plant pruned to maintain that size. Potted brugmansia should be gradually repotted as it grows to its final container—about 20 gallons in size.
Overwintering
Once winter sets in and outdoor temps drop below 50 F, bring in your brugmansia. You can treat it as a houseplant or allow it to go into dormancy. As a houseplant, give it light and water. Water it when the soil dries out, like any other houseplant. It may not flower while inside, but the foliage will look nice.
If you decide to allow it to go dormant, place it in a dark garage, basement, or closet (not colder than 50 F). You can trim it back by one-third and not harm the plant. Only water it sparingly about once a month. It may lose its leaves and look dead, but as long as the trunk is green, it's still alive. As spring approaches, about a month before you can reintroduce the plant to the outdoors, gradually increase watering (about once a week). Put the plant in a sunny spot or give it a grow light for at least 8 hours. In about one week, you should notice some new leaves or branch growth. After you put the plant back outside, its growth will boom, and you will notice its signature flowers within weeks.
Common Pests
Whiteflies are a big problem for brugmansia.3 Cabbage worms, spider mites, and aphids are also common. Other pests that may appear include cucumber beetles (in the midwestern United States), slugs and snails, fungus gnats (inside), and mealybugs. To treat these pest infestations, use isopropyl (rubbing) alcohol on a cotton ball or cotton swab to dab the insects. Another option, make a spray solution of equal parts water and isopropyl alcohol and spray the plant. You can also treat the plant with neem oil or insecticidal soap to repel pests.
How to Get Brugmansia to Bloom
Only a mature brugmansia will bloom. If you started your plant from seeds, it could take up to five years before you see blooms. If you started your brugmansia from a cutting, it might speed up the process, but it can still take about four years. Brugmansia needs ample water to produce blooms and good drainage for good root health. Brugmansia is also a heavy feeder, requiring fertilizer regularly. If all of these factors are met, make sure that it's not root-bound. If it's in too small a container, it may not produce flowers. Move it to a larger container, water, and feed it.
Common Problems With Brugmansia
This plant requires little care and eventually yields some of the most noteworthy blossoms, however, brugmansia is susceptible to pests and diseases that can compromise the health and longevity of the plant.
Stunted Plant Growth and Blotches
Mosaic virus and tomato spotted wilt are common viruses that affect plants in the Solanaceae family. They both can cause stunted plant growth and irregular streaking or blotches. Though the plant may survive and bounce back with proper care, these viruses are permanent and cannot be cured. Avoid planting angel trumpets next to heirloom tomatoes or tobacco plants (Nicotiana spp.) to prevent these viruses.
Wilting Leaves
Fusarium and verticillium wilt are two fungal infections. Both fungi affect the roots and travel up the stem, stopping water from entering the plant and causes wilted foliage. Fusarium wilt usually occurs in warm weather, while verticillium is more common in cooler temperatures. There is no cure; you can only manage the disease. The fungi can live in the soil for a long time. The best bet is to start with new plants and new soil.
Blackening Leaves and Smelly Odor
Root rot is a common fungal disease caused by excessive watering. You can prevent root rot by keeping the potting mix moist but never soggy. Decrease watering when temperatures drop in late summer or autumn. Root rot can be deadly, but if caught early enough, you might be able to save the plant. Pull the root ball out of the container; cut away rotten, mushy roots; sterilize the potting container; and plant the healthy portion of root in fresh, well-draining soil.
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文章
Miss Chen
2021年11月26日
The bridal wreath spirea (Spirae aprunifolia) is a medium-sized deciduous shrub with an upright arching habit, featuring thick sprays of white double flowers that create a focal point in the landscape. Fully hardy in USDA hardiness zones 5-9, this is an easy-to-grow shrub that, once established, requires little care.
The Spiraea genus is found within the Rosaceae family of plants, and it bears some similarity to rose bushes, especially the shape of the leaves and the spiny stems. The species name, prunifolia, indicates that the leaves are similar to those of Prunus, the group that contains many of the familiar stone fruits such as cherries, plums, and peaches.
In spring blooming season, bridal wreath spireas create a cascading waterfall of white, with clusters of small white flowers that bloom all the way down the arching branches. Each leaf is 1- to 3-inches long with an ovate or elliptical shape. The spring flower display is followed by another show in the fall when the leaves turn to hues of red, orange, and yellow.
Spirea is a fast-growing shrub, and within a single growing season, it usually achieves full size. Like most shrubs, bridal wreath spirea is best planted early in the growing season, which will allow the shrub's root system plenty of time to become established before winter. If you must plant in the fall (this sometimes is when nurseries are discounting available stock), try to do it with enough time so the shrub's roots can settle in and begin growing before winter weather sets in.
Botanical Name Spiraea prunifolia
Common Name Spirea, bridal wreath, bridal veil spirea
Plant Type Deciduous shrub
Mature Size 4-8 ft. tall and wide
Sun Exposure Full sun
Soil Type Any well-draining soil
Soil pH 6.0-7.0 (slightly acidic to neutral)
Bloom Time Early spring
Flower Color White
Hardiness Zones 5-9, (USDA)
Native Area China, Korea, and Taiwan
Bridal Wreath Spirea Care
This shrub is very easy to grow in any average soil in a full sun location. It will tolerate some shade, and once established, it has a decent tolerance for occasional drought. Like most shrubs, it should be planted in a carefully prepared hole, at the same depth it was growing in its nursery pot. If planting in a row or mass, space the plant at least 3-feet apart, or 4- to 6-feet apart for a looser mass.
Bridal wreath spirea makes a great specimen plant, or it can be planted as a hedge or in masses as a screening plant. It also works well in foundation plantings. It is excellent when planted in the sunny margins abutting woodland areas, similar to the way azaleas are often used.
The bridal wreath spirea attracts butterflies, but its prickly stems repel grazing by deer. Make sure to plant this shrub where it will not scratch human passers-by—unless you are planting it to discourage intruders.
There are no serious pest or disease problems for the bridal wreath spirea, but they can be susceptible to many of the diseases and insects that attack other members of the rose family. This includes leaf spot, fire blight, powdery mildew, root rot, aphids, leaf roller, and scale.
Some varieties of spirea can escape gardens and become invasive in parts of the U.S., so before planting, check with your local extension office agent.1
Learn About Gold Mound Spirea
Light
This shrub will do best in a spot in your garden that receives full sun; it will tolerate part shade, though with slightly reduced flowering. When planting young bridal wreath spirea shrubs, make sure to provide plenty of room between them: They will grow and can block each other's light if planted too close together.
Soil
This plant is not picky about the soil it's planted in, and can thrive in clay, loam, and even acidic soils. Its biggest need is soil that's well-draining, so the roots never sit in water.
Water
Bridal wreath spirea prefers to grow in well-drained moist soil, though it is able to withstand some periods of drought. Water the plants once a week during the summer whenever rainfall is less than 1 inch. Keep the plants well-watered as they are becoming established.
Temperature and Humidity
This plant is quite hardy, surviving both cold winter and hot summer temperatures in its defined range. It thrives in any climate conditions within its hardiness zones (5-9).
Fertilizer
Every spring, add a 2-inch layer of compost over the soil under the shrub. This is usually sufficient to feed the plant, and it will also help to retain moisture and prevent weeds.
Bridal Wreath Spirea Varieties
‘Fire Light’ has pink flowers that show in summer, and fiery red fall color.
‘Anthony Waterer’ boasts carmine-red flowers and purple fall foliage.
‘Tor’ features tiny white flowers and dark green oval leaves that turn orange, red, and purple in fall.
‘Snowmound’ offers white flowers, attractive arching stems, and dark, blue-green foliage.
Pruning
This plant tends to spread through suckering, so ground suckers will need to be trimmed off if you want to keep the shrubs confined.
If desired, the shrubs can be pruned for shape or size immediately after the spring flowering period. Always use a clean, sharp gardening shear. A good pruning routine is to remove all dead wood, as well as some of the oldest stems all the way to ground level. This will open up the center of the shrub to sunlight, which will reinvigorate it. Tips of branches can also be trimmed to control the size of the shrub.
Propagating Bridal Wreath Spirea
The best way to propagate bridal wreath spirea shrubs is by rooting softwood cuttings. To do so, cut segments of flexible stem tips 6- to 8-inches long. Remove the bottom leaves from these trimmed segments. Dip the cut end into powdered rooting hormone.
Fill a 6-inch pot with moist potting mix, then plant four or five prepared stems around the inner edge of the pot, embedding the exposed nodes into the potting mix. Cover the pot with a large plastic bag and seal it. Place the pot in a dappled shade location and allow the cuttings to root over the next few weeks. Check periodically to make sure the potting mix remains moist.
After about four weeks, you should see new, green growth on the stems, indicating that roots are forming. At this point, repot the cuttings into their own individual containers, then tuck the pots into a sheltered location and allow them to continue growing until they go dormant in winter. The next spring, transplant the rooted cuttings into the garden.
The Spiraea genus is found within the Rosaceae family of plants, and it bears some similarity to rose bushes, especially the shape of the leaves and the spiny stems. The species name, prunifolia, indicates that the leaves are similar to those of Prunus, the group that contains many of the familiar stone fruits such as cherries, plums, and peaches.
In spring blooming season, bridal wreath spireas create a cascading waterfall of white, with clusters of small white flowers that bloom all the way down the arching branches. Each leaf is 1- to 3-inches long with an ovate or elliptical shape. The spring flower display is followed by another show in the fall when the leaves turn to hues of red, orange, and yellow.
Spirea is a fast-growing shrub, and within a single growing season, it usually achieves full size. Like most shrubs, bridal wreath spirea is best planted early in the growing season, which will allow the shrub's root system plenty of time to become established before winter. If you must plant in the fall (this sometimes is when nurseries are discounting available stock), try to do it with enough time so the shrub's roots can settle in and begin growing before winter weather sets in.
Botanical Name Spiraea prunifolia
Common Name Spirea, bridal wreath, bridal veil spirea
Plant Type Deciduous shrub
Mature Size 4-8 ft. tall and wide
Sun Exposure Full sun
Soil Type Any well-draining soil
Soil pH 6.0-7.0 (slightly acidic to neutral)
Bloom Time Early spring
Flower Color White
Hardiness Zones 5-9, (USDA)
Native Area China, Korea, and Taiwan
Bridal Wreath Spirea Care
This shrub is very easy to grow in any average soil in a full sun location. It will tolerate some shade, and once established, it has a decent tolerance for occasional drought. Like most shrubs, it should be planted in a carefully prepared hole, at the same depth it was growing in its nursery pot. If planting in a row or mass, space the plant at least 3-feet apart, or 4- to 6-feet apart for a looser mass.
Bridal wreath spirea makes a great specimen plant, or it can be planted as a hedge or in masses as a screening plant. It also works well in foundation plantings. It is excellent when planted in the sunny margins abutting woodland areas, similar to the way azaleas are often used.
The bridal wreath spirea attracts butterflies, but its prickly stems repel grazing by deer. Make sure to plant this shrub where it will not scratch human passers-by—unless you are planting it to discourage intruders.
There are no serious pest or disease problems for the bridal wreath spirea, but they can be susceptible to many of the diseases and insects that attack other members of the rose family. This includes leaf spot, fire blight, powdery mildew, root rot, aphids, leaf roller, and scale.
Some varieties of spirea can escape gardens and become invasive in parts of the U.S., so before planting, check with your local extension office agent.1
Learn About Gold Mound Spirea
Light
This shrub will do best in a spot in your garden that receives full sun; it will tolerate part shade, though with slightly reduced flowering. When planting young bridal wreath spirea shrubs, make sure to provide plenty of room between them: They will grow and can block each other's light if planted too close together.
Soil
This plant is not picky about the soil it's planted in, and can thrive in clay, loam, and even acidic soils. Its biggest need is soil that's well-draining, so the roots never sit in water.
Water
Bridal wreath spirea prefers to grow in well-drained moist soil, though it is able to withstand some periods of drought. Water the plants once a week during the summer whenever rainfall is less than 1 inch. Keep the plants well-watered as they are becoming established.
Temperature and Humidity
This plant is quite hardy, surviving both cold winter and hot summer temperatures in its defined range. It thrives in any climate conditions within its hardiness zones (5-9).
Fertilizer
Every spring, add a 2-inch layer of compost over the soil under the shrub. This is usually sufficient to feed the plant, and it will also help to retain moisture and prevent weeds.
Bridal Wreath Spirea Varieties
‘Fire Light’ has pink flowers that show in summer, and fiery red fall color.
‘Anthony Waterer’ boasts carmine-red flowers and purple fall foliage.
‘Tor’ features tiny white flowers and dark green oval leaves that turn orange, red, and purple in fall.
‘Snowmound’ offers white flowers, attractive arching stems, and dark, blue-green foliage.
Pruning
This plant tends to spread through suckering, so ground suckers will need to be trimmed off if you want to keep the shrubs confined.
If desired, the shrubs can be pruned for shape or size immediately after the spring flowering period. Always use a clean, sharp gardening shear. A good pruning routine is to remove all dead wood, as well as some of the oldest stems all the way to ground level. This will open up the center of the shrub to sunlight, which will reinvigorate it. Tips of branches can also be trimmed to control the size of the shrub.
Propagating Bridal Wreath Spirea
The best way to propagate bridal wreath spirea shrubs is by rooting softwood cuttings. To do so, cut segments of flexible stem tips 6- to 8-inches long. Remove the bottom leaves from these trimmed segments. Dip the cut end into powdered rooting hormone.
Fill a 6-inch pot with moist potting mix, then plant four or five prepared stems around the inner edge of the pot, embedding the exposed nodes into the potting mix. Cover the pot with a large plastic bag and seal it. Place the pot in a dappled shade location and allow the cuttings to root over the next few weeks. Check periodically to make sure the potting mix remains moist.
After about four weeks, you should see new, green growth on the stems, indicating that roots are forming. At this point, repot the cuttings into their own individual containers, then tuck the pots into a sheltered location and allow them to continue growing until they go dormant in winter. The next spring, transplant the rooted cuttings into the garden.
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文章
Miss Chen
2021年11月23日
Water Hyssop, also known as Bacopa monnieri or herb-of-grace, is a creeping, low-growing perennial herb that is native to wetland environments. This means it lends itself well to ornamental aquariums and ponds and, with its little white flowers, it also looks lovely in hanging baskets.
Given its origins, it does best in moist soils. Fast-growing, Water Hyssop can be invasive if you're not careful about pruning it back regularly. If you live in an area that hosts White Peacock Butterflies, this plant may appeal as it's known to attract the caterpillar of this beautiful species.
Don't opt for Water Hyssop if you love a fragrant garden—its flowers are non-aromatic. Despite its name, this plant isn't related to the Hyssop (which is part of the mint family). Instead, the Water Hyssop is part of the Plantaginaceae (Plantain) family.
Botanical Name Bacopa monnieri
Common Name Water Hyssop, Brahmi, Herb of Grace
Plant Type Perennial herb
Mature Size Up to 12 inches
Sun Exposure Full Sun/Part Sun
Soil Type Moist clay, loam or sand, and in standing water
Soil pH Can grow in a wide range of ph levels but, ideally, between 5 - 7
Bloom Time Late Spring to Early Fall
Flower Color White to light pink flowers and evergreen, succulent leaves
Hardiness Zones 8 to 11
Native Area Found in warm wetlands on most continents
How to Grow Water Hyssop
Water Hyssop is a low-growing herb that quickly spreads like a mat across the ground or in ponds. The root system is vast, and you'll need to allow for this when considering where to plant it.
It would help if you also trimmed it back regularly when it's in full growth to prevent it from spreading across any other plants in the area.
Light
This plant does well in full sun or partially shaded areas. It can cope with hot weather conditions, providing you make sure that its generous moisture needs are met.
Positioning your Water Hyssop in a sunnier location will encourage fuller growth. If it's located in an overly shaded area, the leaves will be more spread out, and the plant will have a sparser appearance.
Soil
Water Hyssop isn't too fussy when it comes to soil types providing they're moist. Their capable of growing in acid, alkaline and neutral soils that are sandy, loamy or clay-like.
Water
Water Hyssop is, unsurprisingly, not a drought-resistant plant, and its succulent leaves need a lot of water to thrive.
Temperature and Humidity
Water Hyssop does well in warm and tropical conditions. Humid temperatures are not a problem as this plant needs moisture to thrive. If you frequently experience cold snaps or temperatures that are generally below 60 degrees Fahrenheit, then this won't be the plant to opt for.
Fertilizer
When this herb is planted in the ground or in baskets, half strength, slow-release fertilizer will be enough to encourage rapid and healthy growth.
If your Water Hyssop is in an aquatic setting, you shouldn't use fertilizer unless it's specifically designed for this type of environment. It can encourage the rapid growth of algae.
Propagating Water Hyssop
This fast-growing and long-lived plant is easy to propagate. You can take cuttings any time between late spring and early summer or divide the root for replanting in spring or fall.
Pop the five to ten centimeter cuttings into water and then enclose them in a humidity bag until you notice the roots have grown visibly.
Harvesting
The leaves of Water Hyssop are edible and can be consumed raw or cooked. Although not one of the most popular or flavorsome herbs, it's well known for its medicinal properties. It's recognized as being beneficial for the nervous system.
It's best to harvest the leaves just as the little flowers are starting to bloom in the summer, but they can be picked right through the fall too.
Being Grown in Containers
Water Hyssop needs a deep container to accommodate the sprawling roots. Make sure you select a sealed bottom pot as you want the soil to remain moist. If you're keeping the container indoors, select a well-lit and warm area for best growth. It'll do best in a humid environment, so if the air in your home is dry, the results may not be as impressive.
Growing From Seeds
Generally, propagation rather than seed growth is recommended. The seeds are very small, and successful germination can be hard to achieve.
If you do wish to try growing Water Hyssop from seeds, because it's fast-growing and has a complex root system, in spring, you should plant the seeds at least six inches apart.
The seeds should be sown close to the surface, and ideally in sunny conditions. The soil should be kept moist.
The seedlings are small and delicate, and it's better to let them grow considerably first if you plan to pot them into containers or reposition them.
Given its origins, it does best in moist soils. Fast-growing, Water Hyssop can be invasive if you're not careful about pruning it back regularly. If you live in an area that hosts White Peacock Butterflies, this plant may appeal as it's known to attract the caterpillar of this beautiful species.
Don't opt for Water Hyssop if you love a fragrant garden—its flowers are non-aromatic. Despite its name, this plant isn't related to the Hyssop (which is part of the mint family). Instead, the Water Hyssop is part of the Plantaginaceae (Plantain) family.
Botanical Name Bacopa monnieri
Common Name Water Hyssop, Brahmi, Herb of Grace
Plant Type Perennial herb
Mature Size Up to 12 inches
Sun Exposure Full Sun/Part Sun
Soil Type Moist clay, loam or sand, and in standing water
Soil pH Can grow in a wide range of ph levels but, ideally, between 5 - 7
Bloom Time Late Spring to Early Fall
Flower Color White to light pink flowers and evergreen, succulent leaves
Hardiness Zones 8 to 11
Native Area Found in warm wetlands on most continents
How to Grow Water Hyssop
Water Hyssop is a low-growing herb that quickly spreads like a mat across the ground or in ponds. The root system is vast, and you'll need to allow for this when considering where to plant it.
It would help if you also trimmed it back regularly when it's in full growth to prevent it from spreading across any other plants in the area.
Light
This plant does well in full sun or partially shaded areas. It can cope with hot weather conditions, providing you make sure that its generous moisture needs are met.
Positioning your Water Hyssop in a sunnier location will encourage fuller growth. If it's located in an overly shaded area, the leaves will be more spread out, and the plant will have a sparser appearance.
Soil
Water Hyssop isn't too fussy when it comes to soil types providing they're moist. Their capable of growing in acid, alkaline and neutral soils that are sandy, loamy or clay-like.
Water
Water Hyssop is, unsurprisingly, not a drought-resistant plant, and its succulent leaves need a lot of water to thrive.
Temperature and Humidity
Water Hyssop does well in warm and tropical conditions. Humid temperatures are not a problem as this plant needs moisture to thrive. If you frequently experience cold snaps or temperatures that are generally below 60 degrees Fahrenheit, then this won't be the plant to opt for.
Fertilizer
When this herb is planted in the ground or in baskets, half strength, slow-release fertilizer will be enough to encourage rapid and healthy growth.
If your Water Hyssop is in an aquatic setting, you shouldn't use fertilizer unless it's specifically designed for this type of environment. It can encourage the rapid growth of algae.
Propagating Water Hyssop
This fast-growing and long-lived plant is easy to propagate. You can take cuttings any time between late spring and early summer or divide the root for replanting in spring or fall.
Pop the five to ten centimeter cuttings into water and then enclose them in a humidity bag until you notice the roots have grown visibly.
Harvesting
The leaves of Water Hyssop are edible and can be consumed raw or cooked. Although not one of the most popular or flavorsome herbs, it's well known for its medicinal properties. It's recognized as being beneficial for the nervous system.
It's best to harvest the leaves just as the little flowers are starting to bloom in the summer, but they can be picked right through the fall too.
Being Grown in Containers
Water Hyssop needs a deep container to accommodate the sprawling roots. Make sure you select a sealed bottom pot as you want the soil to remain moist. If you're keeping the container indoors, select a well-lit and warm area for best growth. It'll do best in a humid environment, so if the air in your home is dry, the results may not be as impressive.
Growing From Seeds
Generally, propagation rather than seed growth is recommended. The seeds are very small, and successful germination can be hard to achieve.
If you do wish to try growing Water Hyssop from seeds, because it's fast-growing and has a complex root system, in spring, you should plant the seeds at least six inches apart.
The seeds should be sown close to the surface, and ideally in sunny conditions. The soil should be kept moist.
The seedlings are small and delicate, and it's better to let them grow considerably first if you plan to pot them into containers or reposition them.
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文章
Miss Chen
2021年11月08日
Whether you know it as blue beard or blue mist, Caryopteris x clandonensis is one of the few plants that produce genuinely blue flowers. This plant originated as an accidental hybrid of C. incana and C. mongholica and has since been bred to produce several popular cultivars. The compact size and soft gray foliage make blue beard plants a good choice in any size garden.
Depending on the climate, these plants are grown either as deciduous shrubs or woody perennials that die back to the ground each winter. Growing from neat low mounds, the narrow silvery-gray leaves resemble those of willow. Ideally, the plant should be planted in the spring or fall, provided that your area doesn't get too cold. Clandonensis hybrids typically grow between 18 and 30 inches annually.
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Fun Fact
The plant's common names come from the hue of the flowers. The blue or purplish blooms, appearing are mid-to-late summer, are clustered in panicles above the foliage in small feathery puffs.
Botanical Name Caryopteris × clandonensis
Common Names Blue beard, blue mist
Plant Type Deciduous shrub or woody perennial
Mature Size 2 to 4 feet tall with a similar spread
Sun Exposure Full sun
Soil Type Medium moisture, well-drained soil
Soil pH 6.5 to 7.5 (slightly acidic to slightly alkaline)
Bloom Time Mid-to-late summer
Flower Color Blue, purple; pink cultivars available
Hardiness Zones 5 to 9 (USDA)
Native Area Parent species are native to East Asia
Blue Beard Care
The compact size and soft gray foliage make blue beard plants a good choice in any size garden. This is a versatile plant, equally at home in perennial borders, shrub borders, or as a small hedge plant. It is very effective planted in mass and is highly valued for its late summer flowers when few other shrubs are blooming.
Blue beard plants are low-maintenance—they tolerate both drought and shade, and they don't need much fertilizer, if any. However, like all other plants, blue beards have their preferences, so you should plant them in full sun and with medium-moisture soil if you want them to thrive.
Light
Caryopteris plants should be sited in full sun for best blooms. They will tolerate some shade, although flowering will be somewhat reduced. Blue beard may bloom later in the season when they are planted in a shady location.
Soil
Caryopteris prefers a medium-moisture, well-draining soil, though it tolerates fairly moist soil. It does not tolerate wet, poorly drained soils. They thrive best with a neutral soil pH, but will accept slightly acidic or slightly alkaline conditions.
Water
Blue bears are drought-tolerant, but water the plants regularly when young. Once established, they don’t require any supplemental watering unless you are having a particularly dry season.
Temperature and Humidity
Blue beard is reliably hardy in USDA zones 5 to 9; however, in the northern part of the range (zones 5 and 6), it may die back to ground level in winter. This is not a problem, though, because this is a fast-growing shrub that blooms on new growth from the current year.
Fertilizer
These plants are not heavy feeders, so some organic matter mixed into the planting hole should be all the food they need. Side dressing with compost is preferred over fertilizing Caryopteris plants. Too much fertilizer makes for a leafy plant with fewer blooms.
Varieties of Blue Beard
Caryopteris x clandonensis : The original hybrid is one of the hardiest forms available and still one of the most popular.
'Dark Knight': This variety has the darkest blue flowers, but it is a bit more temperamental to grow.
'Sunshine Blue': This cultivar has deep blue flowers offset by yellow foliage.
‘Pink Chablis’: This Proven Winners introduction has pink flowers.
‘Longwood Blue’: This variety has sky-blue fragrant blooms and has a taller stature that's about 4 feet high.
‘Worchester Gold’: This cultivar has golden foliage and lavender flowers.
Pruning
To keep the plant shaped and flowering, Caryopteris plants should be cut down by at least half in the early spring. You can cut them back to 12 to 18 inches without harm. As the plants age, you will get some dead wood in the center. Prune this out as needed. If the plants die back in winter, remove the dead stalks in spring as new growth is beginning.
Tip
Blue beard is slow to leaf out in the spring, so don’t panic if yours looks like a dead twig. Be patient.
Propagating Blue Beard Plants
Blue beard may self seed, and the volunteers can be transplanted as you wish. You can also propagate by soft-wood cuttings in late spring. Cut 6-inch segments off new-growth stems, then remove the lower pairs of leaves. Dip the ends of the cuttings in rooting hormone, then plant them in potting mix. Keep the cuttings in bright indirect light and make sure they are well-watered until they have developed good root systems.
Common Pests/Diseases
Caryopteris can be bothered by the four-line plant bug in June. The foliage will get mottled, but it doesn’t harm the plant and the bug moves on quickly enough. If the bugs disturb you, insecticidal soap, horticultural oil, or neem oil will control them.
Depending on the climate, these plants are grown either as deciduous shrubs or woody perennials that die back to the ground each winter. Growing from neat low mounds, the narrow silvery-gray leaves resemble those of willow. Ideally, the plant should be planted in the spring or fall, provided that your area doesn't get too cold. Clandonensis hybrids typically grow between 18 and 30 inches annually.
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Fun Fact
The plant's common names come from the hue of the flowers. The blue or purplish blooms, appearing are mid-to-late summer, are clustered in panicles above the foliage in small feathery puffs.
Botanical Name Caryopteris × clandonensis
Common Names Blue beard, blue mist
Plant Type Deciduous shrub or woody perennial
Mature Size 2 to 4 feet tall with a similar spread
Sun Exposure Full sun
Soil Type Medium moisture, well-drained soil
Soil pH 6.5 to 7.5 (slightly acidic to slightly alkaline)
Bloom Time Mid-to-late summer
Flower Color Blue, purple; pink cultivars available
Hardiness Zones 5 to 9 (USDA)
Native Area Parent species are native to East Asia
Blue Beard Care
The compact size and soft gray foliage make blue beard plants a good choice in any size garden. This is a versatile plant, equally at home in perennial borders, shrub borders, or as a small hedge plant. It is very effective planted in mass and is highly valued for its late summer flowers when few other shrubs are blooming.
Blue beard plants are low-maintenance—they tolerate both drought and shade, and they don't need much fertilizer, if any. However, like all other plants, blue beards have their preferences, so you should plant them in full sun and with medium-moisture soil if you want them to thrive.
Light
Caryopteris plants should be sited in full sun for best blooms. They will tolerate some shade, although flowering will be somewhat reduced. Blue beard may bloom later in the season when they are planted in a shady location.
Soil
Caryopteris prefers a medium-moisture, well-draining soil, though it tolerates fairly moist soil. It does not tolerate wet, poorly drained soils. They thrive best with a neutral soil pH, but will accept slightly acidic or slightly alkaline conditions.
Water
Blue bears are drought-tolerant, but water the plants regularly when young. Once established, they don’t require any supplemental watering unless you are having a particularly dry season.
Temperature and Humidity
Blue beard is reliably hardy in USDA zones 5 to 9; however, in the northern part of the range (zones 5 and 6), it may die back to ground level in winter. This is not a problem, though, because this is a fast-growing shrub that blooms on new growth from the current year.
Fertilizer
These plants are not heavy feeders, so some organic matter mixed into the planting hole should be all the food they need. Side dressing with compost is preferred over fertilizing Caryopteris plants. Too much fertilizer makes for a leafy plant with fewer blooms.
Varieties of Blue Beard
Caryopteris x clandonensis : The original hybrid is one of the hardiest forms available and still one of the most popular.
'Dark Knight': This variety has the darkest blue flowers, but it is a bit more temperamental to grow.
'Sunshine Blue': This cultivar has deep blue flowers offset by yellow foliage.
‘Pink Chablis’: This Proven Winners introduction has pink flowers.
‘Longwood Blue’: This variety has sky-blue fragrant blooms and has a taller stature that's about 4 feet high.
‘Worchester Gold’: This cultivar has golden foliage and lavender flowers.
Pruning
To keep the plant shaped and flowering, Caryopteris plants should be cut down by at least half in the early spring. You can cut them back to 12 to 18 inches without harm. As the plants age, you will get some dead wood in the center. Prune this out as needed. If the plants die back in winter, remove the dead stalks in spring as new growth is beginning.
Tip
Blue beard is slow to leaf out in the spring, so don’t panic if yours looks like a dead twig. Be patient.
Propagating Blue Beard Plants
Blue beard may self seed, and the volunteers can be transplanted as you wish. You can also propagate by soft-wood cuttings in late spring. Cut 6-inch segments off new-growth stems, then remove the lower pairs of leaves. Dip the ends of the cuttings in rooting hormone, then plant them in potting mix. Keep the cuttings in bright indirect light and make sure they are well-watered until they have developed good root systems.
Common Pests/Diseases
Caryopteris can be bothered by the four-line plant bug in June. The foliage will get mottled, but it doesn’t harm the plant and the bug moves on quickly enough. If the bugs disturb you, insecticidal soap, horticultural oil, or neem oil will control them.
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文章
Miss Chen
2021年10月27日
Gaillardia, also known as blanket flower, is an easy-to-grow, short-lived perennial with richly colored, daisy-like flowers. The plant forms a slowly spreading mound and the common name may be a reference to how they can slowly spread and "blanket" an area. The plants grow to about 24 inches in height with about a 20-inch spread. Blanket flowers are fast-growers and will bloom in their first year. This garden favorite puts out large showy blossoms in shades of reds and yellows throughout the warm season months.
These short-lived perennials are usually planted from nursery starts, but they also grow easily from seeds planted directly in the garden after the last frost date (or started indoors about 4 to 6 weeks early). Take note that blanket flower is slightly toxic to humans.1
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Common Names Gallardia, blanket flower
Botanical Name Gaillardia x Grandiflora
Family Asteraceae
Plant Type Herbaceous perennial
Mature Size 12 to 18 in. tall; 12- to 24-in. spread
Sun Exposure Full sun
Soil Type Any well-draining soil (avoid clay soil)
Soil pH 6.1 to 6.5 (slightly acidic)
Bloom Time Repeat bloomer, summer through fall
Flower Color Various shades of red, yellow, orange, or peach
Hardiness Zones 3-10 (USDA); varies by variety
Native Area Cultivated hybrid; parents are native North American wildflowers
Toxicity Slightly toxic to humans
Blanket Flower Care
Gaillardia X Grandiflora is fully hardy in USDA Zones 4 to 8. Due to extensive hybridizing you will likely be able to find a variety to fit your zone and climate conditions. The flower can reseed and easily sprawl through your garden. Since the original plants are hybrids, expect some variation from self-seeding.
Gaillardias are such long bloomers that they work equally well in borders and containers. Blanket flowers do well with other heat-loving plants that thrive in full sun. The bold, daisy-like flowers blend especially well with soft textures, like thread-leaf Coreopsis and cosmos, as well as airy ornamental grasses. For more contrast, plant them with spiky plants like Kniphofia, Crocosmia, or daylilies. 'Burgundy' contrasts well with blue flowers, like Salvia and veronica. All the Gaillardia varieties make excellent cut flowers.
Light
These plants thrive best in full sun. The blanket flower can handle some partial shade, particularly in hot climates, but they will get a bit floppy and will not flower as profusely.
Soil
Gaillardia is not particular about soil pH, but it does need well-draining soil. It will grow in somewhat moist conditions, but heavy clay soil will probably kill it.
Water
Immediately after planting, water frequently (every other day or so) until you see the flowers. Once established, Gaillardia is extremely drought tolerant. It can go without watering unless there are extremely hot and dry conditions, then it's best to water the bed once or twice per week. Avoid overwatering.
Temperature and Humidity
Blanket flowers thrive in full sun and can withstand hot summer temperatures. They do not require a humid environment and do better in hot, dry climates over cool, moist ones. In cooler climates, protect your overwintering blanket flowers with a thick layer of mulch.
Fertilizer
Poor soils seem to encourage more flowering than rich soils, so go easy on (or avoid) the fertilizer.
Types of Blanket Flower
There are over two dozen species in the Gaillardia genus and most are native to some areas of North America. Gaillardia pulchella, which is native from the southeastern U.S. through to Colorado and south into Mexico, was cross-bred with Gaillardia aristata, a prairie flower, to create Gaillardia X Grandiflora, which is the most common garden form.
Here are other popular types:
Gaillardia 'Arizona Sun': A 2005 All-America Selections Winner, these 3- to 4- inch flowers have a red center surrounded by yellow.
G. 'Burgundy': These flowers feature wine-red petals with a yellow center disk that ages to burgundy.
G. 'Fanfare': This variety produces trumpet-shaped flowers that shade from soft red through yellow radiate from a rosy center disk.
G. 'Goblin': This is a very hardy variety with large green leaves that are veined in maroon.
G. 'Mesa Yellow': The 2010 All-America Selections Winner is known for its striking yellow flowers.
Pruning
Blanket flower does not require deadheading to keep blooming, but the plants will look better and be fuller if you do cut the stems back when the flowers start to fade. You will also get more continuous flowering with deadheading, so don't be shy about it. Deadheading isn't mandatory, but it may stimulate additional blooms. If the plant languishes in the heat of summer, cutting it back dramatically may reinvigorate it for good fall blooming.
Propagating Blanket Flowers
There are seeds for many Gaillardia x Grandiflora varieties. You can sow them in the spring, but they may not flower the first year. Get a head start by sowing in late summer and protecting the young plants over the winter. Since the plants can be short-lived and they don't grow true from seed, it is best to divide the plants every two to three years in the spring to try to keep them going. Follow these steps to divide blanket flowers:
Use a spade to dig a circle about 6 inches to 8 inches around the mound of blanket flowers that need dividing. Dig down about a foot to release the root ball.
Lift the root ball from the soil using the spade. Shake the root ball slightly to remove some of the dirt to expose the roots.
Gently tease roots apart with your fingers and divide into two or three clumps. Each clump should include a few shoots of foliage.
Replant divisions in a prepared area that will allow the roots to spread.
Once roots are covered with soil, water thoroughly to moisten the roots.
Keep the soil moist, but not soggy, until you see the plant is no longer stressed, and then cut back on watering as you would with established blanket flowers.
Common Pests & Plant Diseases
Blanket flower plants are usually problem-free, but they are susceptible to aster yellows, a virus-like disease that can stunt their growth and cause the flowers to be green.2 Plants that do contract aster yellows should be destroyed. They will not recover and the disease can continue to spread.
Aster yellows are spread by leaf-hoppers and aphids, so the best thing to do is to encourage predators, like ladybugs.3 Hopefully, you will have enough natural predators around to keep them in check. Otherwise, spray with insecticidal soap which helps ward off the pests.
These short-lived perennials are usually planted from nursery starts, but they also grow easily from seeds planted directly in the garden after the last frost date (or started indoors about 4 to 6 weeks early). Take note that blanket flower is slightly toxic to humans.1
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7 Tips for Every Gardener
Common Names Gallardia, blanket flower
Botanical Name Gaillardia x Grandiflora
Family Asteraceae
Plant Type Herbaceous perennial
Mature Size 12 to 18 in. tall; 12- to 24-in. spread
Sun Exposure Full sun
Soil Type Any well-draining soil (avoid clay soil)
Soil pH 6.1 to 6.5 (slightly acidic)
Bloom Time Repeat bloomer, summer through fall
Flower Color Various shades of red, yellow, orange, or peach
Hardiness Zones 3-10 (USDA); varies by variety
Native Area Cultivated hybrid; parents are native North American wildflowers
Toxicity Slightly toxic to humans
Blanket Flower Care
Gaillardia X Grandiflora is fully hardy in USDA Zones 4 to 8. Due to extensive hybridizing you will likely be able to find a variety to fit your zone and climate conditions. The flower can reseed and easily sprawl through your garden. Since the original plants are hybrids, expect some variation from self-seeding.
Gaillardias are such long bloomers that they work equally well in borders and containers. Blanket flowers do well with other heat-loving plants that thrive in full sun. The bold, daisy-like flowers blend especially well with soft textures, like thread-leaf Coreopsis and cosmos, as well as airy ornamental grasses. For more contrast, plant them with spiky plants like Kniphofia, Crocosmia, or daylilies. 'Burgundy' contrasts well with blue flowers, like Salvia and veronica. All the Gaillardia varieties make excellent cut flowers.
Light
These plants thrive best in full sun. The blanket flower can handle some partial shade, particularly in hot climates, but they will get a bit floppy and will not flower as profusely.
Soil
Gaillardia is not particular about soil pH, but it does need well-draining soil. It will grow in somewhat moist conditions, but heavy clay soil will probably kill it.
Water
Immediately after planting, water frequently (every other day or so) until you see the flowers. Once established, Gaillardia is extremely drought tolerant. It can go without watering unless there are extremely hot and dry conditions, then it's best to water the bed once or twice per week. Avoid overwatering.
Temperature and Humidity
Blanket flowers thrive in full sun and can withstand hot summer temperatures. They do not require a humid environment and do better in hot, dry climates over cool, moist ones. In cooler climates, protect your overwintering blanket flowers with a thick layer of mulch.
Fertilizer
Poor soils seem to encourage more flowering than rich soils, so go easy on (or avoid) the fertilizer.
Types of Blanket Flower
There are over two dozen species in the Gaillardia genus and most are native to some areas of North America. Gaillardia pulchella, which is native from the southeastern U.S. through to Colorado and south into Mexico, was cross-bred with Gaillardia aristata, a prairie flower, to create Gaillardia X Grandiflora, which is the most common garden form.
Here are other popular types:
Gaillardia 'Arizona Sun': A 2005 All-America Selections Winner, these 3- to 4- inch flowers have a red center surrounded by yellow.
G. 'Burgundy': These flowers feature wine-red petals with a yellow center disk that ages to burgundy.
G. 'Fanfare': This variety produces trumpet-shaped flowers that shade from soft red through yellow radiate from a rosy center disk.
G. 'Goblin': This is a very hardy variety with large green leaves that are veined in maroon.
G. 'Mesa Yellow': The 2010 All-America Selections Winner is known for its striking yellow flowers.
Pruning
Blanket flower does not require deadheading to keep blooming, but the plants will look better and be fuller if you do cut the stems back when the flowers start to fade. You will also get more continuous flowering with deadheading, so don't be shy about it. Deadheading isn't mandatory, but it may stimulate additional blooms. If the plant languishes in the heat of summer, cutting it back dramatically may reinvigorate it for good fall blooming.
Propagating Blanket Flowers
There are seeds for many Gaillardia x Grandiflora varieties. You can sow them in the spring, but they may not flower the first year. Get a head start by sowing in late summer and protecting the young plants over the winter. Since the plants can be short-lived and they don't grow true from seed, it is best to divide the plants every two to three years in the spring to try to keep them going. Follow these steps to divide blanket flowers:
Use a spade to dig a circle about 6 inches to 8 inches around the mound of blanket flowers that need dividing. Dig down about a foot to release the root ball.
Lift the root ball from the soil using the spade. Shake the root ball slightly to remove some of the dirt to expose the roots.
Gently tease roots apart with your fingers and divide into two or three clumps. Each clump should include a few shoots of foliage.
Replant divisions in a prepared area that will allow the roots to spread.
Once roots are covered with soil, water thoroughly to moisten the roots.
Keep the soil moist, but not soggy, until you see the plant is no longer stressed, and then cut back on watering as you would with established blanket flowers.
Common Pests & Plant Diseases
Blanket flower plants are usually problem-free, but they are susceptible to aster yellows, a virus-like disease that can stunt their growth and cause the flowers to be green.2 Plants that do contract aster yellows should be destroyed. They will not recover and the disease can continue to spread.
Aster yellows are spread by leaf-hoppers and aphids, so the best thing to do is to encourage predators, like ladybugs.3 Hopefully, you will have enough natural predators around to keep them in check. Otherwise, spray with insecticidal soap which helps ward off the pests.
0
0
文章
Miss Chen
2021年10月20日
The American elderberry, sometimes known as the common elderberry, is a deciduous shrub with bright white flowers and small, dark berries. Known by many different names, including black elderberry and American black elderberry, this shrub makes a lovely addition to any garden or landscape thanks to its lush green leaves, sprays of flowers, and edible fruits. Native to North America, the American elderberry is also known for its culinary qualities—elderberry fruits can be eaten and cooked with, but only when they are fully ripened.
Best planted in early spring after the final frost, American elderberry is a moderately-fast growing bush that can reach up to 12 feet tall and 6 feet across once mature. It can be planted outdoors successfully in USDA zones 3 through 9 and harvested once the berries are dark purple or black, typically in August or September.
Botanical Name Sambucus canadensis
Common Name Common elderberry, black elderberry, American elderberry
Plant Type Deciduous shrub
Mature Size 5–12 ft. tall, 3–6 ft. wide
Sun Exposure Full sun, partial shade
Soil Type Moist but well-drained
Soil pH Neutral but acidic
Bloom Time Summer
Flower Color White
Hardiness Zones 3–9 (USDA)
Native Area North America
Toxicity Toxic to people and pets; fruit is non-toxic to people once cooked
American Elderberry Care
American elderberry is an easy-to-care-for shrub that can tolerate a variety of different growing conditions ranging from wet soil and rocky terrain to bright sun and lots of shade. The one thing they do need is plenty of water. Enough H2O will ensure that your plant not only thrives and grows but produces lots of berries.
For the first few years of growing American elderberry, just focus on allowing your bush to get established. Do the bare minimum when it comes to pruning your shrub and check it for invasive weeds (a common problem for the shallow-rooted plant) periodically. Don't expect to reap any huge berry harvests, either—you likely won't get a worthwhile harvest until your second or third year.
The berries are quite sour on their own, so if you opt to make them into a jam or pie, you'll want to use lots of sugar. Additionally, the small white flowers on the plant, which form in a cluster called a cyme, can be used to make wine, cordials, and syrups.
Light
American elderberry can be grown in a variety of different sun locations, making it an ideal pick for nearly any spot in your yard or landscape. Though it can handle it all, it prefers a spot that boasts full sun or partial shade.
Soil
For the most successful bush, plant your American elderberry in a soil that is humusy and moist. That being said, the plant can tolerate a variety of soil conditions, but whatever you choose must be well-draining. A neutral-to-acidic pH level is recommended as well. When planting your American elderberry, choose a spot that isn't prone to standing water (the plants have shallow roots and can rot easily) and plant each shrub at least a few feet apart from one another to allow them to grow freely.
Water
When it comes to the American elderberry, drought is pretty much the one thing it cannot tolerate. Your elderberry will need around an inch or two of water weekly during its peak growth period or during times of extremely hot or dry weather. Remember, the plant's roots are very close to the surface, so if the top layer of soil is dry, it's a good indication that they are too. As long as you have well-draining soil, there is little risk in overwatering the American elderberry.
Temperature and Humidity
American elderberry isn't picky about its temperature conditions, given its wide range of hardiness zones. That being said, it's a plant that would much rather be cool and moist than hot and dry. Though it prefers temperate weather, it does not have any special humidity needs—but it loves rain!
Fertilizer
While fertilizing your American elderberry plant isn't totally necessary, it is a great way to ensure ample fruit growth. For starters, consider amending the soil you plant your bush in with manure or compost to increase its nutrient density. Beyond that, fertilizer your bush every spring with a 10-10-10 fertilizer mixture.
American Elderberry Varieties
'Aurea' cultivar': a shrub with yellow leaves, and red fruit instead of black
'Variegata': for foliage with variegation
'Laciniata': offers lacy dissected leaves
'Adams No. 1,' 'Adams No. 2,' 'York,' and 'Johns': produce an abundance of large drupes, and are cultivars most used if you're cooking the fruit
Pruning
This shrub does tend to form a lot of suckers. This can be a beneficial characteristic if you're trying to populate a native garden inexpensively, for instance, but it can be annoying otherwise. It may even become invasive in some areas. Your local garden center should know if this is the case.
You can make the shrubs into a standard (small tree) form by choosing and developing a central leader. Otherwise, it is usually a multi-trunked shrub.
Plan on removing dead, damaged and diseased canes (flexible branches) at the start of spring. You should also remove canes that are over three years old since younger ones produce better and this pruning will encourage new growth. Pruning can also be used to make a shrub's appearance neater, as it can become a bit lanky.
Propagating American Elderberries
Elderberry can be propagated by taking cuttings and rooting them. Use rooting hormone, to protect them from bacteria and fungus. Keep cuttings in a jar filled with clean water, for at least two months. Refill the water as needed, mist occasionally. Once strong roots have grown, you can plant them directly into your garden, in a well-draining area with partial shade.
Potting and Repotting American Elderberries
Elderberries have shallow roots, making them perfect for container planting. It's best to pot in spring, in an oversized pot, at least 2 feet wide and 20 inches deep. Make sure it has drainage holes (or create your own using a drill). Use a rich potting soil, with a pH of 5.5 to 6.5. Mulch the surface with compost and water frequently so they never dry out.
Common Pests and Diseases
While there aren't too many problems that arise when growing American elderberry, you may end up dealing with familiar issues such as aphids, mealybug, elder shoot borer, and scale. Additionally, American elderberry can be susceptible to a variety of diseases, including canker, leaf spot, and powdery mildew. Weeds are actually the most dangerous risk to the plant—gone untreated, they can easily choke out its shallow roots. Clear the soil frequently of any weeds you notice encroaching on your elderberry shrubs.
Best planted in early spring after the final frost, American elderberry is a moderately-fast growing bush that can reach up to 12 feet tall and 6 feet across once mature. It can be planted outdoors successfully in USDA zones 3 through 9 and harvested once the berries are dark purple or black, typically in August or September.
Botanical Name Sambucus canadensis
Common Name Common elderberry, black elderberry, American elderberry
Plant Type Deciduous shrub
Mature Size 5–12 ft. tall, 3–6 ft. wide
Sun Exposure Full sun, partial shade
Soil Type Moist but well-drained
Soil pH Neutral but acidic
Bloom Time Summer
Flower Color White
Hardiness Zones 3–9 (USDA)
Native Area North America
Toxicity Toxic to people and pets; fruit is non-toxic to people once cooked
American Elderberry Care
American elderberry is an easy-to-care-for shrub that can tolerate a variety of different growing conditions ranging from wet soil and rocky terrain to bright sun and lots of shade. The one thing they do need is plenty of water. Enough H2O will ensure that your plant not only thrives and grows but produces lots of berries.
For the first few years of growing American elderberry, just focus on allowing your bush to get established. Do the bare minimum when it comes to pruning your shrub and check it for invasive weeds (a common problem for the shallow-rooted plant) periodically. Don't expect to reap any huge berry harvests, either—you likely won't get a worthwhile harvest until your second or third year.
The berries are quite sour on their own, so if you opt to make them into a jam or pie, you'll want to use lots of sugar. Additionally, the small white flowers on the plant, which form in a cluster called a cyme, can be used to make wine, cordials, and syrups.
Light
American elderberry can be grown in a variety of different sun locations, making it an ideal pick for nearly any spot in your yard or landscape. Though it can handle it all, it prefers a spot that boasts full sun or partial shade.
Soil
For the most successful bush, plant your American elderberry in a soil that is humusy and moist. That being said, the plant can tolerate a variety of soil conditions, but whatever you choose must be well-draining. A neutral-to-acidic pH level is recommended as well. When planting your American elderberry, choose a spot that isn't prone to standing water (the plants have shallow roots and can rot easily) and plant each shrub at least a few feet apart from one another to allow them to grow freely.
Water
When it comes to the American elderberry, drought is pretty much the one thing it cannot tolerate. Your elderberry will need around an inch or two of water weekly during its peak growth period or during times of extremely hot or dry weather. Remember, the plant's roots are very close to the surface, so if the top layer of soil is dry, it's a good indication that they are too. As long as you have well-draining soil, there is little risk in overwatering the American elderberry.
Temperature and Humidity
American elderberry isn't picky about its temperature conditions, given its wide range of hardiness zones. That being said, it's a plant that would much rather be cool and moist than hot and dry. Though it prefers temperate weather, it does not have any special humidity needs—but it loves rain!
Fertilizer
While fertilizing your American elderberry plant isn't totally necessary, it is a great way to ensure ample fruit growth. For starters, consider amending the soil you plant your bush in with manure or compost to increase its nutrient density. Beyond that, fertilizer your bush every spring with a 10-10-10 fertilizer mixture.
American Elderberry Varieties
'Aurea' cultivar': a shrub with yellow leaves, and red fruit instead of black
'Variegata': for foliage with variegation
'Laciniata': offers lacy dissected leaves
'Adams No. 1,' 'Adams No. 2,' 'York,' and 'Johns': produce an abundance of large drupes, and are cultivars most used if you're cooking the fruit
Pruning
This shrub does tend to form a lot of suckers. This can be a beneficial characteristic if you're trying to populate a native garden inexpensively, for instance, but it can be annoying otherwise. It may even become invasive in some areas. Your local garden center should know if this is the case.
You can make the shrubs into a standard (small tree) form by choosing and developing a central leader. Otherwise, it is usually a multi-trunked shrub.
Plan on removing dead, damaged and diseased canes (flexible branches) at the start of spring. You should also remove canes that are over three years old since younger ones produce better and this pruning will encourage new growth. Pruning can also be used to make a shrub's appearance neater, as it can become a bit lanky.
Propagating American Elderberries
Elderberry can be propagated by taking cuttings and rooting them. Use rooting hormone, to protect them from bacteria and fungus. Keep cuttings in a jar filled with clean water, for at least two months. Refill the water as needed, mist occasionally. Once strong roots have grown, you can plant them directly into your garden, in a well-draining area with partial shade.
Potting and Repotting American Elderberries
Elderberries have shallow roots, making them perfect for container planting. It's best to pot in spring, in an oversized pot, at least 2 feet wide and 20 inches deep. Make sure it has drainage holes (or create your own using a drill). Use a rich potting soil, with a pH of 5.5 to 6.5. Mulch the surface with compost and water frequently so they never dry out.
Common Pests and Diseases
While there aren't too many problems that arise when growing American elderberry, you may end up dealing with familiar issues such as aphids, mealybug, elder shoot borer, and scale. Additionally, American elderberry can be susceptible to a variety of diseases, including canker, leaf spot, and powdery mildew. Weeds are actually the most dangerous risk to the plant—gone untreated, they can easily choke out its shallow roots. Clear the soil frequently of any weeds you notice encroaching on your elderberry shrubs.
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0
文章
Miss Chen
2021年10月16日
The distinctive bird of paradise (Strelitzia spp.) is one of the best-known tropical flowers. It is closely related to the banana plant. The bird of paradise plant is named for closely resembling the tropical bird of the same name. It is easier to grow than many tropical plants and makes for a vigorous, rapidly growing indoor plant. It can be moved outside in the summer and thrives outside for half the year. Bird of paradise typically flowers in the late winter or early spring, but it can flower at other times of the year when provided optimal conditions. These plants grow with upright leaves emerging directly from the soil and have no trunk. The large leaves range from 12 to 18 inches long and can get splits in the leaf when exposed to windy conditions or brushed against in a busy hallway. Strelitzia is toxic to cats and dogs.1
Common Name Bird of paradise, crane flower
Botanical Name Strelitzia reginae, Strelitzia nicolai
Family Strelitziaceae
Plant Type Herbaceous perennial
Mature Size 3.5-6 ft. tall, 3-4 ft. wide
Sun Exposure Full to partial
Soil Type Loamy
Soil pH Slightly acidic
Bloom Time Late winter to early spring
Flower Color Orange or white
Hardiness Zones 10-12 (USDA)
Native Area Africa (South Africa)
Toxicity Toxic to pets
Bird of Paradise Care
Strelitzia are beautiful plants that can be successfully grown inside; however, the biggest drawbacks are their size; they can grow 5 to 6 feet tall. These plants need 3 to 5 years to mature before they flower. They work well in massed plantings outside or as a specimen plant in warm climates, where their flowers rise above the foliage for an impressive display.
The trick to successful growth indoors is bright light with direct sun, regular watering, and warmth. Feed the plant with compost early in spring before new growth begins and fertilize every week during the growing season. To increase survival rate, grow the plant in a container that can be moved outside in warm summer months and returned inside during the winter.
Light
This plant needs bright light, including some direct sunlight, to bloom well. However, it requires shielding in the direct midday summer sun, which can burn the leaves of younger plants.2 A good position is in a room with windows facing east or west. Avoid rooms with only a north-facing window.
Soil
Use rich, well-drained potting mix for potted plants or a compost mixture. If using a pot, make sure it has ample drainage holes to allow water to flow through the soil and out of the pot.
Water
Keep the soil continually moist throughout the year. While it should not be waterlogged, expect to water it daily in the spring and summer as it loses moisture through its big leaves. You can water it until you see the water draining from its drainage holes, but make sure it does not sit in a pool of water. If overwatered, the plant will develop crunchy brown leaves. If underwatered, the leaves farthest from the center will turn yellow.
Temperature and Humidity
Bird of paradise prefers high humidity. You might want to keep a spray bottle handy to mist it if your home is dry. Keep the air temperature above 60 degrees Fahrenheit in the winter. This is not a cold-tolerant plant, and it recovers slowly from frost damage.
Fertilizer
This plant is a heavy feeder. Feed it in the springtime with slow-release pellets or weekly during the growing season with liquid fertilizer.
Types of Strelitzia
There are five Strelitzia species, but only two are commonly grown as indoor plants: S. reginae (orange bird of paradise) and S. nicolai (white bird of paradise).
Strelitzia reginae 'Glauca': This orange variety has powdery grayer foliage and stems.
Strelitzia reginae 'Humilis' or 'Pygmaea': This orange variety only grows to about 3 feet in size.
Strelitzia reginae 'Ovata': This orange variety features rounded leaf blades.
Strelitzia juncea: The leafless bird of paradise lacks leaf blades, so its stems and leaves look like reeds.
Strelitzia caudata: This 25-foot-tall species grows in the higher elevations of South Africa and is also called the mountain bird of paradise. It blooms with white-and-blue petalled flowers and is the rarest and hardest to obtain.
Pruning
Birds of paradise flowers last for about three weeks before dropping their petals and dying. Remove old or damaged plant matter. This is the best way to thin the leaves. Remove the leaves by pulling them off or use sharp cutting instruments. Sterilize the implements in between different plants. If a leaf appears mostly healthy, leave it intact. If your plant has grown really large, and you need to do significant cutting down, use loppers, hand pruners, or a pruning saw in the early spring. Do not use hedge trimmers, which leave ragged cuts. You can cut all leaves and stems down to just above the ground. If the plant remains too crowded, use long-handled pruners and remove selected stems and leaves.
Propagating Bird of Paradise
The best ways to propagate birds of paradise are division and sowing seeds. Division is easier and quicker than growing from seed. It's best to use mature plants that have been previously blooming for at least three years. Here's how to divide strelitzia.
To propagate by division:
Depending on the size of your plant (and its rhizome or underground root structure), you will need larger instruments like a shovel and saw for in-ground or large plants. For smaller plants, you can use a sharp knife. If potting the division, you will need a new pot and a well-draining potting mix.
You can also remove the new growth or offshoots at the base of the plant that has at least three leaves and divide the rhizome below ground with a shovel, saw, or knife.
Repot in a new container with a well-draining potting mix.
How to Grow Strelitzia From Seed
Be patient when growing strelitzia from seeds. It can take two months for the seeds to germinate. Soak seeds in room-temperature water for 24 to 48 hours before planting. Remove any orange stringy material. Nick the seed with a knife or nail file. Plant the seed in a well-draining potting mix about 1/2 to 1 inch deep and at least 3 inches apart from other seeds. Place the container in a warm, indirect sun location (at least 80 degrees Fahrenheit). Cover with a cloche or plastic wrap, keeping the soil moist but not soggy. Once the seedling germinates and produces two to three leaves, transplant to a 6-inch pot. Once your plant reaches 6 inches, it is ready for a more permanent home.
Potting and Repotting Strelitzia
Bird of paradise is a rapidly-growing plant that needs to reach a certain size before it blooms. A bird of paradise that is 3 to 4 feet tall grows well in a 10-inch pot. A 5- to 6-foot plant usually thrives in a 14-inch pot. Repot it every spring into the next-size-up pot.
Once it reaches maturity, allow it to be pot-bound so that it will bloom. You can divide it by the time it has matured or bloomed at least once but do it infrequently since crowded clumps produce the most blooms. Repotting disrupts the bloom cycle.
Overwintering
If it gets below freezing where you live for a prolonged time, you might kill this plant if you do not take it inside for the winter. However, if you live in an area like zone 9, where it only dips low for short periods, you may be able to overwinter your plant outdoors; but it will need help to survive.
To overwinter outdoors, cut the stem and leaves down to just 12 inches above the ground. Cover the entire stem and rhizome area with a layer of mulch, then leaf litter, and straw. Cover that with breathable row cover material and stake it down. As soon as spring arrives and the threat of the last frost is gone, remove the toppings.
Common Pests and Plant Diseases
Monitor the plant for aphids, scale, and whiteflies.3 If you see them, use insecticidal soap for control and apply it to the undersides of the leaves. Systemic pesticide is also effective. If you use systemic pesticide, the plant will distribute it from its roots through to its leaves and flowers. Bird of paradise is also susceptible to Botrytis cinerea (gray mold).3 Flowers and leaves with this condition will develop dark spots followed by a layer of gray mold. Remove the affected parts of the plant and allow them to air out.
How to Get Strelitzia to Bloom
Once your plant is at least four to five years old, it is mature enough to bloom. To spur flowering, keep it pot-bound. Give it a lot of sun (at least 6 hours of full sunlight or bright light) and feed it on schedule. One of the most common reasons a bird of paradise fails to flower is insufficient light. These plants should also be kept evenly moist throughout summer, but allow them to dry out between watering.
Common Problems With Strelitzia
Strelizia is a relatively easy-going plant with very few issues. It is most prone to root rot and insects that prey on the plant when its optimal conditions are not met. But, if it's not overwatered, kept fed, and given ample light and air circulation—it can keep most problems at bay.
Wilting or Browning of Leaves
The most common disease affecting strelitzia is root rot. When the roots of the plant sit in water or the soil gets soggy for a prolonged amount of time, a fungus that causes root rot can overtake a plant. It can be avoided by letting the soil dry out between waterings. Another sign you have root rot includes a rotting smell. Some plants can be saved if caught early. To fix root rot, pull up the root ball, cutting away blackened, moldy parts of the rhizome, apply a fungicide according to the instructions, and repot in a sterilized container with fresh, well-draining soil.
Curling Leaves
Curling leaves are a sign of underwatering. You can avoid this problem by giving more water and making sure that the water runs freely from the bottom of the pot. This thorough watering ensures that all the roots have access to water, but make sure that the plant doesn't sit in that water. Soggy soil can cause other problems.
Yellowing Leaves
Yellowing leaves can mean several things. First, if the occasion leaf turns yellow, and the plant is a mature plant, it can be the normal life cycle of the leaf of that plant. However, if many leaves begin to yellow it can be a sign that the plant does not have ample humidity, it needs more nutrients, or if the yellowed leaves are toward the outside of the plant, it's not getting sufficiently watered. Increase each of those factors—one at a time—to see if that solves the problem.
Slits or Breaks in the Leaves
This plant's leaves are large. If your strelitzia develops slits or breaks in the leaves, especially if your plant lives outside for some part of the year, it's natural and normal. The plant develops slits to allow the plant to circulate air around its leaves and roots. Wind and breezes contribute to slitting. Air circulation keeps mold and other pests from settling in.
Common Name Bird of paradise, crane flower
Botanical Name Strelitzia reginae, Strelitzia nicolai
Family Strelitziaceae
Plant Type Herbaceous perennial
Mature Size 3.5-6 ft. tall, 3-4 ft. wide
Sun Exposure Full to partial
Soil Type Loamy
Soil pH Slightly acidic
Bloom Time Late winter to early spring
Flower Color Orange or white
Hardiness Zones 10-12 (USDA)
Native Area Africa (South Africa)
Toxicity Toxic to pets
Bird of Paradise Care
Strelitzia are beautiful plants that can be successfully grown inside; however, the biggest drawbacks are their size; they can grow 5 to 6 feet tall. These plants need 3 to 5 years to mature before they flower. They work well in massed plantings outside or as a specimen plant in warm climates, where their flowers rise above the foliage for an impressive display.
The trick to successful growth indoors is bright light with direct sun, regular watering, and warmth. Feed the plant with compost early in spring before new growth begins and fertilize every week during the growing season. To increase survival rate, grow the plant in a container that can be moved outside in warm summer months and returned inside during the winter.
Light
This plant needs bright light, including some direct sunlight, to bloom well. However, it requires shielding in the direct midday summer sun, which can burn the leaves of younger plants.2 A good position is in a room with windows facing east or west. Avoid rooms with only a north-facing window.
Soil
Use rich, well-drained potting mix for potted plants or a compost mixture. If using a pot, make sure it has ample drainage holes to allow water to flow through the soil and out of the pot.
Water
Keep the soil continually moist throughout the year. While it should not be waterlogged, expect to water it daily in the spring and summer as it loses moisture through its big leaves. You can water it until you see the water draining from its drainage holes, but make sure it does not sit in a pool of water. If overwatered, the plant will develop crunchy brown leaves. If underwatered, the leaves farthest from the center will turn yellow.
Temperature and Humidity
Bird of paradise prefers high humidity. You might want to keep a spray bottle handy to mist it if your home is dry. Keep the air temperature above 60 degrees Fahrenheit in the winter. This is not a cold-tolerant plant, and it recovers slowly from frost damage.
Fertilizer
This plant is a heavy feeder. Feed it in the springtime with slow-release pellets or weekly during the growing season with liquid fertilizer.
Types of Strelitzia
There are five Strelitzia species, but only two are commonly grown as indoor plants: S. reginae (orange bird of paradise) and S. nicolai (white bird of paradise).
Strelitzia reginae 'Glauca': This orange variety has powdery grayer foliage and stems.
Strelitzia reginae 'Humilis' or 'Pygmaea': This orange variety only grows to about 3 feet in size.
Strelitzia reginae 'Ovata': This orange variety features rounded leaf blades.
Strelitzia juncea: The leafless bird of paradise lacks leaf blades, so its stems and leaves look like reeds.
Strelitzia caudata: This 25-foot-tall species grows in the higher elevations of South Africa and is also called the mountain bird of paradise. It blooms with white-and-blue petalled flowers and is the rarest and hardest to obtain.
Pruning
Birds of paradise flowers last for about three weeks before dropping their petals and dying. Remove old or damaged plant matter. This is the best way to thin the leaves. Remove the leaves by pulling them off or use sharp cutting instruments. Sterilize the implements in between different plants. If a leaf appears mostly healthy, leave it intact. If your plant has grown really large, and you need to do significant cutting down, use loppers, hand pruners, or a pruning saw in the early spring. Do not use hedge trimmers, which leave ragged cuts. You can cut all leaves and stems down to just above the ground. If the plant remains too crowded, use long-handled pruners and remove selected stems and leaves.
Propagating Bird of Paradise
The best ways to propagate birds of paradise are division and sowing seeds. Division is easier and quicker than growing from seed. It's best to use mature plants that have been previously blooming for at least three years. Here's how to divide strelitzia.
To propagate by division:
Depending on the size of your plant (and its rhizome or underground root structure), you will need larger instruments like a shovel and saw for in-ground or large plants. For smaller plants, you can use a sharp knife. If potting the division, you will need a new pot and a well-draining potting mix.
You can also remove the new growth or offshoots at the base of the plant that has at least three leaves and divide the rhizome below ground with a shovel, saw, or knife.
Repot in a new container with a well-draining potting mix.
How to Grow Strelitzia From Seed
Be patient when growing strelitzia from seeds. It can take two months for the seeds to germinate. Soak seeds in room-temperature water for 24 to 48 hours before planting. Remove any orange stringy material. Nick the seed with a knife or nail file. Plant the seed in a well-draining potting mix about 1/2 to 1 inch deep and at least 3 inches apart from other seeds. Place the container in a warm, indirect sun location (at least 80 degrees Fahrenheit). Cover with a cloche or plastic wrap, keeping the soil moist but not soggy. Once the seedling germinates and produces two to three leaves, transplant to a 6-inch pot. Once your plant reaches 6 inches, it is ready for a more permanent home.
Potting and Repotting Strelitzia
Bird of paradise is a rapidly-growing plant that needs to reach a certain size before it blooms. A bird of paradise that is 3 to 4 feet tall grows well in a 10-inch pot. A 5- to 6-foot plant usually thrives in a 14-inch pot. Repot it every spring into the next-size-up pot.
Once it reaches maturity, allow it to be pot-bound so that it will bloom. You can divide it by the time it has matured or bloomed at least once but do it infrequently since crowded clumps produce the most blooms. Repotting disrupts the bloom cycle.
Overwintering
If it gets below freezing where you live for a prolonged time, you might kill this plant if you do not take it inside for the winter. However, if you live in an area like zone 9, where it only dips low for short periods, you may be able to overwinter your plant outdoors; but it will need help to survive.
To overwinter outdoors, cut the stem and leaves down to just 12 inches above the ground. Cover the entire stem and rhizome area with a layer of mulch, then leaf litter, and straw. Cover that with breathable row cover material and stake it down. As soon as spring arrives and the threat of the last frost is gone, remove the toppings.
Common Pests and Plant Diseases
Monitor the plant for aphids, scale, and whiteflies.3 If you see them, use insecticidal soap for control and apply it to the undersides of the leaves. Systemic pesticide is also effective. If you use systemic pesticide, the plant will distribute it from its roots through to its leaves and flowers. Bird of paradise is also susceptible to Botrytis cinerea (gray mold).3 Flowers and leaves with this condition will develop dark spots followed by a layer of gray mold. Remove the affected parts of the plant and allow them to air out.
How to Get Strelitzia to Bloom
Once your plant is at least four to five years old, it is mature enough to bloom. To spur flowering, keep it pot-bound. Give it a lot of sun (at least 6 hours of full sunlight or bright light) and feed it on schedule. One of the most common reasons a bird of paradise fails to flower is insufficient light. These plants should also be kept evenly moist throughout summer, but allow them to dry out between watering.
Common Problems With Strelitzia
Strelizia is a relatively easy-going plant with very few issues. It is most prone to root rot and insects that prey on the plant when its optimal conditions are not met. But, if it's not overwatered, kept fed, and given ample light and air circulation—it can keep most problems at bay.
Wilting or Browning of Leaves
The most common disease affecting strelitzia is root rot. When the roots of the plant sit in water or the soil gets soggy for a prolonged amount of time, a fungus that causes root rot can overtake a plant. It can be avoided by letting the soil dry out between waterings. Another sign you have root rot includes a rotting smell. Some plants can be saved if caught early. To fix root rot, pull up the root ball, cutting away blackened, moldy parts of the rhizome, apply a fungicide according to the instructions, and repot in a sterilized container with fresh, well-draining soil.
Curling Leaves
Curling leaves are a sign of underwatering. You can avoid this problem by giving more water and making sure that the water runs freely from the bottom of the pot. This thorough watering ensures that all the roots have access to water, but make sure that the plant doesn't sit in that water. Soggy soil can cause other problems.
Yellowing Leaves
Yellowing leaves can mean several things. First, if the occasion leaf turns yellow, and the plant is a mature plant, it can be the normal life cycle of the leaf of that plant. However, if many leaves begin to yellow it can be a sign that the plant does not have ample humidity, it needs more nutrients, or if the yellowed leaves are toward the outside of the plant, it's not getting sufficiently watered. Increase each of those factors—one at a time—to see if that solves the problem.
Slits or Breaks in the Leaves
This plant's leaves are large. If your strelitzia develops slits or breaks in the leaves, especially if your plant lives outside for some part of the year, it's natural and normal. The plant develops slits to allow the plant to circulate air around its leaves and roots. Wind and breezes contribute to slitting. Air circulation keeps mold and other pests from settling in.
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Miss Chen
2021年10月05日
Becky shasta daisies (Leucanthemum x superbum 'Becky') are a cultivar of the hybrid shasta daisies. They grow larger than several of the other shasta cultivars, sporting many long-lasting, showy flowers that stretch roughly 3 to 4 inches across. The blooms have a classic daisy look with white petals around a central bright yellow disk. Becky shasta daisies rise up on rigid stems that bear leathery, lance-shaped green leaves. These flowers have a fast growth rate and can be aggressive spreaders in the garden if you let them freely sow their seeds. They can be planted in the spring or early fall.
Botanical Name Leucanthemum x superbum 'Becky'
Common Name Becky shasta daisy
Plant Type Herbaceous, perennial
Mature Size 3–4 ft. tall, 2–3 ft. wide
Sun Exposure Full
Soil Type Well-drained
Soil pH Neutral
Bloom Time Summer
Flower Color White with a yellow center
Hardiness Zones 5–9 (USDA)
Native Area Hybrid developed in North America
Toxicity Toxic to people and animals
Becky Shasta Daisy Care
When provided with the proper growing conditions, Becky shasta daisies don’t require much care. Even though these flowers grow fairly tall, they typically don’t require staking due to their rigid stems. They’re commonly used as borders, in mixed flower beds, and in cutting gardens (as they make a wonderfully long-lasting cut flower).
When the daisies are in bloom, deadheading (removing spent blooms) can help to promote additional flowering. Plus, removing the flower heads before they go to seed will prevent unwanted spread of the plants. Furthermore, every two to three years, plan to divide your plants to maintain their vigor. Simply dig up a clump and break it apart at its roots, keeping as many as possible intact. Then, replant the smaller clumps wherever you wish.
Light
Plant Becky shasta daisies in full sun, meaning at least six hours of direct sunlight on most days. This will result in the best flowering on the plants. However, in climates with especially hot summers, some light shade in the afternoon can be beneficial for the daisies. But if they are starting to look leggy, that can mean they aren't getting enough sun.
Soil
These flowers aren’t picky about their soil type as long as it has good drainage. Soil that remains wet for too long can cause root rot and ultimately be fatal to the plants.
Water
Becky shasta daisies have low to moderate water requirements, and they have fairly good drought tolerance. During their first growing season, water your daisies regularly to keep the soil lightly moist (but ensure that it doesn’t get soggy). After that, you typically will only need to water during prolonged periods of drought when your plants have noticeable signs of wilt.
Temperature and Humidity
These plants have fairly good heat and cold tolerance within their growing zones. But extremely high temperatures can stress the plants and hinder their blooming. Likewise, a late frost or freeze in the spring can injure the buds and prevent some blooming. A layer of mulch around the daisies can help to protect the roots from extreme temperature fluctuations. Humidity typically isn't an issue for Becky shasta daisies as long as they have good soil drainage.
Fertilizer
Becky shasta daisies typically don't need fertilizer unless you have very lean soil. But it can be beneficial to work some compost into the soil around your plants annually in the spring.
Shasta Daisy Varieties
There are multiple cultivars of shasta daisies besides 'Becky' including:
‘Esther Read’: This variety has pure white double flowers (having extra petals) with yellow centers.
‘Silberprinzesschen’: A compact plant, it only grows up to a foot tall but features profuse blooms that stretch about 3 inches across.
‘Snow Lady’: This is another compact variety that only reaches around a foot high and features the classic white daisy flowers, which stretch roughly 2.5 inches across.
‘Wirral Pride’: Double flowers adorn this variety which reaches around 1.5 to 2 feet tall.
Common Pests/Diseases
These daisies occasionally come down with a fungal disease called verticillium wilt, in which the plants quickly wilt and sometimes turn yellow first. It’s recommended to remove and destroy plants with this disease. They also are susceptible to leaf spot, a fungal disease that causes spots and damage to the foliage. This can be treated with a fungicide. Some common garden pests that might visit Becky shasta daisies include aphids and leaf miners, which can be treated with neem oil.
Botanical Name Leucanthemum x superbum 'Becky'
Common Name Becky shasta daisy
Plant Type Herbaceous, perennial
Mature Size 3–4 ft. tall, 2–3 ft. wide
Sun Exposure Full
Soil Type Well-drained
Soil pH Neutral
Bloom Time Summer
Flower Color White with a yellow center
Hardiness Zones 5–9 (USDA)
Native Area Hybrid developed in North America
Toxicity Toxic to people and animals
Becky Shasta Daisy Care
When provided with the proper growing conditions, Becky shasta daisies don’t require much care. Even though these flowers grow fairly tall, they typically don’t require staking due to their rigid stems. They’re commonly used as borders, in mixed flower beds, and in cutting gardens (as they make a wonderfully long-lasting cut flower).
When the daisies are in bloom, deadheading (removing spent blooms) can help to promote additional flowering. Plus, removing the flower heads before they go to seed will prevent unwanted spread of the plants. Furthermore, every two to three years, plan to divide your plants to maintain their vigor. Simply dig up a clump and break it apart at its roots, keeping as many as possible intact. Then, replant the smaller clumps wherever you wish.
Light
Plant Becky shasta daisies in full sun, meaning at least six hours of direct sunlight on most days. This will result in the best flowering on the plants. However, in climates with especially hot summers, some light shade in the afternoon can be beneficial for the daisies. But if they are starting to look leggy, that can mean they aren't getting enough sun.
Soil
These flowers aren’t picky about their soil type as long as it has good drainage. Soil that remains wet for too long can cause root rot and ultimately be fatal to the plants.
Water
Becky shasta daisies have low to moderate water requirements, and they have fairly good drought tolerance. During their first growing season, water your daisies regularly to keep the soil lightly moist (but ensure that it doesn’t get soggy). After that, you typically will only need to water during prolonged periods of drought when your plants have noticeable signs of wilt.
Temperature and Humidity
These plants have fairly good heat and cold tolerance within their growing zones. But extremely high temperatures can stress the plants and hinder their blooming. Likewise, a late frost or freeze in the spring can injure the buds and prevent some blooming. A layer of mulch around the daisies can help to protect the roots from extreme temperature fluctuations. Humidity typically isn't an issue for Becky shasta daisies as long as they have good soil drainage.
Fertilizer
Becky shasta daisies typically don't need fertilizer unless you have very lean soil. But it can be beneficial to work some compost into the soil around your plants annually in the spring.
Shasta Daisy Varieties
There are multiple cultivars of shasta daisies besides 'Becky' including:
‘Esther Read’: This variety has pure white double flowers (having extra petals) with yellow centers.
‘Silberprinzesschen’: A compact plant, it only grows up to a foot tall but features profuse blooms that stretch about 3 inches across.
‘Snow Lady’: This is another compact variety that only reaches around a foot high and features the classic white daisy flowers, which stretch roughly 2.5 inches across.
‘Wirral Pride’: Double flowers adorn this variety which reaches around 1.5 to 2 feet tall.
Common Pests/Diseases
These daisies occasionally come down with a fungal disease called verticillium wilt, in which the plants quickly wilt and sometimes turn yellow first. It’s recommended to remove and destroy plants with this disease. They also are susceptible to leaf spot, a fungal disease that causes spots and damage to the foliage. This can be treated with a fungicide. Some common garden pests that might visit Becky shasta daisies include aphids and leaf miners, which can be treated with neem oil.
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Miss Chen
2021年10月01日
Growing Batik German iris is all about the mesmerizing color pattern on the flower petals. The royal purple flowers are streaked with irregular blotches of white (a patterning sometimes termed "broken color"). Its flowers, produced over a period of about one month, are also fragrant. Batik German iris is truly a show-stopper for the flower border.
Botanical Name Iris germanica 'Batik'
Common Name Batik iris, Batik German iris, Batik bearded iris
Plant Type Herbaceous perennial
Mature Size 24 inches in height
Sun Exposure Full sun
Soil Type Friable, evenly moist, and well-drained
Soil pH Neutral
Bloom Time May
Flower Color Royal purple, with white blotches
Hardiness Zones 4 to 9
Native Area The eastern Mediterranean
How to Grow Batik German Iris
Plant the rhizomes of Batik German iris no deeper than one inch down into the soil. This perennial is notorious for preferring a shallow planting depth.
After blooming, deadhead by removing flower stems right down to ground level.
To avoid bacterial and fungal diseases, be fastidious in cleaning up a bed in which you are growing Batik German irises. After a hard frost in autumn, clean up any debris around the plants. Some experts recommend that you cut the leaves down to ground level at this time.
This is a deer-resistant perennial. In spite of Bambi's disdain for it, it is a plant that attracts butterflies; you can also use it as a flower to attract hummingbirds.
Dividing in August every four years or so will prevent overcrowding and rejuvenate your clumps of Batik German iris.
Light
Batik German iris tolerates light shade, but it will flower best when grown in full sun.
Soil
Work humus into the soil to promote good drainage.
Water
Keep the soil of Batik German iris evenly moist. But the plant does not like soggy soil, so make sure that the ground drains well. It is a moderately drought-tolerant perennial once established.
Fertilizer
For fertilizer (which some gardeners apply twice a year), use a product high in phosphorus (the middle number in the NPK sequence).
Batik, Border, Bearded, German: What the Names Mean
You probably recognize the germanica in the botanical name as the source for the "German" in the common name. I. germanica also goes by the common name of "bearded iris," due to the presence on the flowers of small hairs reminiscent of the hairs in a beard just beginning to grow.
Like other genera brimming with hordes of different species, this genus has a lingo all its own, meant to help in classifying plants and facilitating descriptions of plant parts. For example, you will see Batik German iris listed as a "border" type. Among other qualifications, a border type will, by definition, attain a height of from 16 to 27.5 inches, according to the American Iris Society (AIS). Since Batik German irises have a height of 24 inches, they meet this qualification.
The cultivar name of 'Batik' refers to an ancient artistic technique, whereby select portions of a medium are made resistant by applying wax to them, after which the surface is dyed. The dye-resistant areas retain their original color, whereas the rest of the surface assumes the color of the dye.
Apparently, whoever named the plant thought of the batiking process when gazing upon the flower's purple-and-white coloration. The pattern could easily suggest an original color of white, made resistant with wax, over which a purple dye was applied (or vice versa).
Usually associated with fabric, the concept can readily be applied elsewhere, as well. The batiking process is popular in artwork done on hardshell gourds (Lagenaria spp.), for example.
Other Iris
Batik is one of the many hybrid bearded irises available, but there are various types of irises. They come in many colors and sizes (including flower sizes), and they can differ substantially in growing requirements. Examples include:
Reticulated iris (Iris reticulata): This is a much smaller species (both in height and in flower size). It also blooms earlier.
Blue flag (Iris versicolor): Being native to eastern North America, the blue flag is a good alternative for gardeners in that region who crave native gardens. It works well around water features.
Japanese iris (Iris ensata): Another choice well-suited for planting around water features. Both this iris and blue flag require more water than Batik German iris, and they tolerate wet soil.
Uses for Batik German Iris in the Landscape
Batik German iris, being of intermediate height for a perennial, is a good plant for the middle row of a layered perennial flower bed. Alternatively, use it as an edging plant. It is a good cut flower, too.
The plant exhibits a clumping growth habit, growing from a base of rhizomes. Its leaves are sword-shaped. Combined with its tall flower spikes, the leaves inject a vertical element in your flower borders that allows you to create contrasts in plant form.
Botanical Name Iris germanica 'Batik'
Common Name Batik iris, Batik German iris, Batik bearded iris
Plant Type Herbaceous perennial
Mature Size 24 inches in height
Sun Exposure Full sun
Soil Type Friable, evenly moist, and well-drained
Soil pH Neutral
Bloom Time May
Flower Color Royal purple, with white blotches
Hardiness Zones 4 to 9
Native Area The eastern Mediterranean
How to Grow Batik German Iris
Plant the rhizomes of Batik German iris no deeper than one inch down into the soil. This perennial is notorious for preferring a shallow planting depth.
After blooming, deadhead by removing flower stems right down to ground level.
To avoid bacterial and fungal diseases, be fastidious in cleaning up a bed in which you are growing Batik German irises. After a hard frost in autumn, clean up any debris around the plants. Some experts recommend that you cut the leaves down to ground level at this time.
This is a deer-resistant perennial. In spite of Bambi's disdain for it, it is a plant that attracts butterflies; you can also use it as a flower to attract hummingbirds.
Dividing in August every four years or so will prevent overcrowding and rejuvenate your clumps of Batik German iris.
Light
Batik German iris tolerates light shade, but it will flower best when grown in full sun.
Soil
Work humus into the soil to promote good drainage.
Water
Keep the soil of Batik German iris evenly moist. But the plant does not like soggy soil, so make sure that the ground drains well. It is a moderately drought-tolerant perennial once established.
Fertilizer
For fertilizer (which some gardeners apply twice a year), use a product high in phosphorus (the middle number in the NPK sequence).
Batik, Border, Bearded, German: What the Names Mean
You probably recognize the germanica in the botanical name as the source for the "German" in the common name. I. germanica also goes by the common name of "bearded iris," due to the presence on the flowers of small hairs reminiscent of the hairs in a beard just beginning to grow.
Like other genera brimming with hordes of different species, this genus has a lingo all its own, meant to help in classifying plants and facilitating descriptions of plant parts. For example, you will see Batik German iris listed as a "border" type. Among other qualifications, a border type will, by definition, attain a height of from 16 to 27.5 inches, according to the American Iris Society (AIS). Since Batik German irises have a height of 24 inches, they meet this qualification.
The cultivar name of 'Batik' refers to an ancient artistic technique, whereby select portions of a medium are made resistant by applying wax to them, after which the surface is dyed. The dye-resistant areas retain their original color, whereas the rest of the surface assumes the color of the dye.
Apparently, whoever named the plant thought of the batiking process when gazing upon the flower's purple-and-white coloration. The pattern could easily suggest an original color of white, made resistant with wax, over which a purple dye was applied (or vice versa).
Usually associated with fabric, the concept can readily be applied elsewhere, as well. The batiking process is popular in artwork done on hardshell gourds (Lagenaria spp.), for example.
Other Iris
Batik is one of the many hybrid bearded irises available, but there are various types of irises. They come in many colors and sizes (including flower sizes), and they can differ substantially in growing requirements. Examples include:
Reticulated iris (Iris reticulata): This is a much smaller species (both in height and in flower size). It also blooms earlier.
Blue flag (Iris versicolor): Being native to eastern North America, the blue flag is a good alternative for gardeners in that region who crave native gardens. It works well around water features.
Japanese iris (Iris ensata): Another choice well-suited for planting around water features. Both this iris and blue flag require more water than Batik German iris, and they tolerate wet soil.
Uses for Batik German Iris in the Landscape
Batik German iris, being of intermediate height for a perennial, is a good plant for the middle row of a layered perennial flower bed. Alternatively, use it as an edging plant. It is a good cut flower, too.
The plant exhibits a clumping growth habit, growing from a base of rhizomes. Its leaves are sword-shaped. Combined with its tall flower spikes, the leaves inject a vertical element in your flower borders that allows you to create contrasts in plant form.
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文章
Miss Chen
2021年09月21日
Balloon flowers (Platycodon grandiflorus) are clump-forming perennials and members of the easy-to-grow bellflower family of plants although the blooms do not resemble bells. Instead, puffy, balloon-like buds swell up to produce the 2- to 3-inch star-shaped flowers. This easy-grower blooms all summer long with intense blue-violet flowers, but there are also cultivars with white and pink blooms. Balloon flowers are generally planted in the spring after the danger of frost has passed, growing quickly to bloom in the first year.
Common Name Balloon flower, Chinese bellflower, Japanese bellflower
Botanical Name Platycodon grandiflorus
Family Campanulaceae (bellflower)
Plant Type Herbaceous perennial
Mature Size 1– 2 1/2 ft. tall, 1–1 1/2 ft. wide
Sun Exposure Full sun to part shade
Soil Type Rich, loamy, medium moisture, well-draining
Soil pH 5.5–7.5 (acidic to slightly alkaline)
Bloom Time Summer
Flower Color Blue-violet, white, pink
Hardiness Zones 3–8 (USDA)
Native Area China, Korea, Japan, Russia
Balloon Flower Care
Balloon flowers make excellent plants for border gardens or rock gardens and the blooms attract pollinators such as bees and butterflies thanks to their wide-open petals. These perennials will self-sow their seed, though they aren't aggressive spreaders. Overall, balloon flowers are fairly low-maintenance plants and are quite pest- and disease-resistant outside of root rot in areas with large amounts of rainfall.1
The taller varieties of balloon flowers can become a bit floppy. You can stake them or plant them in clumps to let them support one another. Start with nursery plants or grow your balloon flowers from seed.
Light
You will get the most flowers if you plant balloon flowers in full sun (at least six hours of sunlight on most days). However, they will be fine in part shade and might actually prefer some shade from where the afternoon sun is especially hot.
Soil
Balloon flowers prefer organically rich, loamy soil that has good drainage. They don’t grow well in dense soil, such as clay. They like a soil pH in the 5.5 to 7.5 range.
Water
Keep the soil of young plants consistently moist but not soggy. Once established, balloon flowers like a moderate amount of moisture in the soil, but they can tolerate short periods of drought. They won’t need a lot of supplemental watering unless you have a long period without rainfall that causes the soil to dry out.
Temperature and Humidity
Balloon flowers are hardy and do well in USDA growing zones 3 to 8. Their ideal temperature range is between 60 and 80 degrees Fahrenheit, but they can withstand higher temperatures if they have some shade in the afternoon. Frost can kill young plants and will cause established plants to die back into the ground in the fall. Balloon flowers tolerate both humid and dry air conditions, provided they have the right amount of soil moisture.
Fertilizer
Balloon flowers typically don't need supplemental feeding if you have rich soil. But a layer of compost in the fall can help them replenish the energy they expend blooming during the growing season. If you have poor soil, use an all-purpose, slow-release fertilizer in early spring.
Types of Balloon Flowers
There are several popular varieties of balloon flowers, including:
Platycodon grandiflorus Astra series: This type grows double flowers with 10 petals in blue, pink, or white. They're an ideal choice to start from seeds.
P. grandiflorus Fuji series: This is the most commonly sold variety, as well as the tallest, with 30-inch stems and flowers in blue, pink, or white.
P. grandiflorus 'Komachi': The purple-blue flowers in this variety stay in their puffy pillow stage even after blooming.
P. 'Sentimental Blue': This dwarf variety grows about 6 inches tall with lots of 1- to 2-inch purple flowers.
Pruning
Pruning generally isn't necessary with balloon flowers, though you can do so for appearance. To achieve stockier plants, you can cut back tall stems by about half in the late spring. This can help to prevent the plants from flopping over. Also, deadheading your plants (removing spent blooms) will keep them looking good and repeatedly blooming. Don't remove the whole stem, just the faded flowers. The remaining buds on the stem will continue to open.
Propagating Balloon Flowers
Propagating by division is generally not recommended for balloon flowers because the deep taproots do not like being disturbed. Instead, you can propagate by taking stem cuttings.
Use sterile, sharp pruners to trim a 4-inch length of stem, and remove the lower foliage to expose the bare stem.
Use a rooting hormone on the bare stem if you wish, and then pot it in moist soil.
Keep the soil moist (but not soggy) as you wait for roots to take hold.
Once you see leaf growth and feel resistance when you give the cutting a gentle tug, you’ll know roots have grown. Then, the plant is ready to be transplanted into the garden.
How to Grow Balloon Flowers From Seed
Start seeds indoors in the early spring about six to eight weeks before your area's projected last frost date, using seed starter mix or ordinary potting soil. Barely cover the seeds with 1/16 inch of soil. Place the container in a warm location until the seeds germinate. After the weather has warmed, you can transplant the seedlings outdoors. If you plant seeds directly in your garden, do so after your last frost date, but know they likely won't flower in their first year.
Common Pests and Plant Diseases
Balloon flowers generally attract slugs and snails, as do many other outdoor bloomers, which can be coaxed off the plants with bait. However, the plant may become afflicted with crown rot, root rot, botrytis gray mold, powdery mildew, or fungal leaf spot. Crown and root rot may cause plants to die over the winter. Leaves presenting powdery spots, mottling, or blotching can usually be treated with a fungicide. Quickly discard plants with gray mold so it doesn't spread, then use a preventative fungicide on remaining plants.
Common Name Balloon flower, Chinese bellflower, Japanese bellflower
Botanical Name Platycodon grandiflorus
Family Campanulaceae (bellflower)
Plant Type Herbaceous perennial
Mature Size 1– 2 1/2 ft. tall, 1–1 1/2 ft. wide
Sun Exposure Full sun to part shade
Soil Type Rich, loamy, medium moisture, well-draining
Soil pH 5.5–7.5 (acidic to slightly alkaline)
Bloom Time Summer
Flower Color Blue-violet, white, pink
Hardiness Zones 3–8 (USDA)
Native Area China, Korea, Japan, Russia
Balloon Flower Care
Balloon flowers make excellent plants for border gardens or rock gardens and the blooms attract pollinators such as bees and butterflies thanks to their wide-open petals. These perennials will self-sow their seed, though they aren't aggressive spreaders. Overall, balloon flowers are fairly low-maintenance plants and are quite pest- and disease-resistant outside of root rot in areas with large amounts of rainfall.1
The taller varieties of balloon flowers can become a bit floppy. You can stake them or plant them in clumps to let them support one another. Start with nursery plants or grow your balloon flowers from seed.
Light
You will get the most flowers if you plant balloon flowers in full sun (at least six hours of sunlight on most days). However, they will be fine in part shade and might actually prefer some shade from where the afternoon sun is especially hot.
Soil
Balloon flowers prefer organically rich, loamy soil that has good drainage. They don’t grow well in dense soil, such as clay. They like a soil pH in the 5.5 to 7.5 range.
Water
Keep the soil of young plants consistently moist but not soggy. Once established, balloon flowers like a moderate amount of moisture in the soil, but they can tolerate short periods of drought. They won’t need a lot of supplemental watering unless you have a long period without rainfall that causes the soil to dry out.
Temperature and Humidity
Balloon flowers are hardy and do well in USDA growing zones 3 to 8. Their ideal temperature range is between 60 and 80 degrees Fahrenheit, but they can withstand higher temperatures if they have some shade in the afternoon. Frost can kill young plants and will cause established plants to die back into the ground in the fall. Balloon flowers tolerate both humid and dry air conditions, provided they have the right amount of soil moisture.
Fertilizer
Balloon flowers typically don't need supplemental feeding if you have rich soil. But a layer of compost in the fall can help them replenish the energy they expend blooming during the growing season. If you have poor soil, use an all-purpose, slow-release fertilizer in early spring.
Types of Balloon Flowers
There are several popular varieties of balloon flowers, including:
Platycodon grandiflorus Astra series: This type grows double flowers with 10 petals in blue, pink, or white. They're an ideal choice to start from seeds.
P. grandiflorus Fuji series: This is the most commonly sold variety, as well as the tallest, with 30-inch stems and flowers in blue, pink, or white.
P. grandiflorus 'Komachi': The purple-blue flowers in this variety stay in their puffy pillow stage even after blooming.
P. 'Sentimental Blue': This dwarf variety grows about 6 inches tall with lots of 1- to 2-inch purple flowers.
Pruning
Pruning generally isn't necessary with balloon flowers, though you can do so for appearance. To achieve stockier plants, you can cut back tall stems by about half in the late spring. This can help to prevent the plants from flopping over. Also, deadheading your plants (removing spent blooms) will keep them looking good and repeatedly blooming. Don't remove the whole stem, just the faded flowers. The remaining buds on the stem will continue to open.
Propagating Balloon Flowers
Propagating by division is generally not recommended for balloon flowers because the deep taproots do not like being disturbed. Instead, you can propagate by taking stem cuttings.
Use sterile, sharp pruners to trim a 4-inch length of stem, and remove the lower foliage to expose the bare stem.
Use a rooting hormone on the bare stem if you wish, and then pot it in moist soil.
Keep the soil moist (but not soggy) as you wait for roots to take hold.
Once you see leaf growth and feel resistance when you give the cutting a gentle tug, you’ll know roots have grown. Then, the plant is ready to be transplanted into the garden.
How to Grow Balloon Flowers From Seed
Start seeds indoors in the early spring about six to eight weeks before your area's projected last frost date, using seed starter mix or ordinary potting soil. Barely cover the seeds with 1/16 inch of soil. Place the container in a warm location until the seeds germinate. After the weather has warmed, you can transplant the seedlings outdoors. If you plant seeds directly in your garden, do so after your last frost date, but know they likely won't flower in their first year.
Common Pests and Plant Diseases
Balloon flowers generally attract slugs and snails, as do many other outdoor bloomers, which can be coaxed off the plants with bait. However, the plant may become afflicted with crown rot, root rot, botrytis gray mold, powdery mildew, or fungal leaf spot. Crown and root rot may cause plants to die over the winter. Leaves presenting powdery spots, mottling, or blotching can usually be treated with a fungicide. Quickly discard plants with gray mold so it doesn't spread, then use a preventative fungicide on remaining plants.
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