文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月07日
Cherry Blossoms are some of the most beautiful flowers, coming in bright colors. The Cherry Blossom tree in full bloom, during the arrival of spring, is one of the most beautiful sights to behold.
The Cherry Blossom is so popular that festivals are celebrated in its honor- the Cherry Blossom Festival, celebrated in the months of March and April.
The Cherry Blossom is Japan's unofficial National Flower. Somei Yoshino is a favorite Cherry Blossom variety of the Japanese. The flowers are almost pure white, tinged with the palest pink, especially near the stem.
The Somei Yoshino Cherry Blossoms bloom, and usually fall within a week, before the leaves come out. The trees, thus look nearly white from top to bottom. Other Cherry Blossom varieties include yamazakura, yaezakura, and shidarezakura. The yaezakura Cherry Blossom have large flowers, thick with rich pink petals.
The shidarezakura Cherry Blossom, or weeping Cherry, has branches that fall like those of a weeping willow, bearing cascades of pink flowers.
The Japanese Cherry starts flowering profusely from the first warmer days in April, heralding the coming of spring. The pink or white flowers grow in racemose clusters at nodes on short spurs. They are past flowering early in May.
The Cherries can be divided into three groups - the European, the American, and the Oriental. In general, the Oriental types (Prunus serrulata) are less hardy. This genus - Prunus comprises over 400 species and numerous cultivars of trees and shrubs growing in temperate climates mostly in the Northern Hemisphere.
It includes evergreen shrubs, flowering fruit trees, and all the stone fruits - almonds, apricots, cherries, nectarines, peaches, plums, and prunes. They are also very ornamental.
The National Cherry Blossom Festival is an annual celebration in Washington, D.C., commemorating the March 27, 1912, gift to the city of 3,000 Japanese cherry trees from the Mayor of Tokyo to strengthen the growing friendship between the United States and Japan. Cherry Blossoms are rooted deep in the culture of Japan and were used in ancient Japan to forecast how crops for the coming year would do. Modern Japan still celebrates Hanami - gatherings of friends to picnic under a canopy of Cherry Blossoms, enjoying the brief burst of the beauty of nature and springtime. Through the centuries, the Japanese have developed many different varieties of the Cherry tree. All of these trees bloom for a short time with pink or white flowers. Cherries are part of the rose family and like roses, most cherry trees bloom during the spring. A few varieties are grown to flower later and actually show their blossoms in autumn or even during winter! Normally, it is just a week to ten days before all of the blossoms are carried away by the wind.
Growing Cherry Blossoms
Cherries are propagated by budding them on seedling stocks in the nursery and are sold for planting stock as one or two-year-old trees. Sweet and Sour Cherries are fairly easy to grow. Sour Cherries, which are smaller and more tolerant of cold and heat, are easier to grow than sweet Cherries.
Sour cherries are self-pollinating so you don't have to plant two kinds. Sour Cherries also bloom later, which makes them less vulnerable to harm from late spring frosts.
Because of the fact that Cherry Blossom trees bloom early in spring and are susceptible to damage from late spring frosts, the site for growing Cherries should be slightly higher and sloped than the surrounding ground to prevent frosty air from settling in the low spots.
Cherry Blossom trees should be placed in a sheltered location with full sun, in soil that is deep, fertile and moist, but well drained.
Full sun exposure for Cherry Blossom trees is necessary to produce delicious Cherries and strong trees.
Cherry Blossom trees grown in shade will produce spindly branches and fewer cherries that are less sweet.
Sweet and sour Cherries are susceptible to most of the same problems.
Cherry Blossom Plant Care
Maintaining a clean surrounding is very important to keep pest and disease problems down for Cherry Blossom trees.
Bird problems on Cherry Blossom trees can be prevented by planting your trees near people or pets and by netting.
Diseased fruit, leaves, and prunings on Cherry Blossom trees should be removed immediately and either burned to kill insect larvae and disease spores or destroyed in a hot compost pile.
Some common problems seen in Cherry Blossom trees are Plum curculio, Brown rot, cherry fruit flies, cherry leaf spot and bacterial canker.
The Cherry Blossom is so popular that festivals are celebrated in its honor- the Cherry Blossom Festival, celebrated in the months of March and April.
The Cherry Blossom is Japan's unofficial National Flower. Somei Yoshino is a favorite Cherry Blossom variety of the Japanese. The flowers are almost pure white, tinged with the palest pink, especially near the stem.
The Somei Yoshino Cherry Blossoms bloom, and usually fall within a week, before the leaves come out. The trees, thus look nearly white from top to bottom. Other Cherry Blossom varieties include yamazakura, yaezakura, and shidarezakura. The yaezakura Cherry Blossom have large flowers, thick with rich pink petals.
The shidarezakura Cherry Blossom, or weeping Cherry, has branches that fall like those of a weeping willow, bearing cascades of pink flowers.
The Japanese Cherry starts flowering profusely from the first warmer days in April, heralding the coming of spring. The pink or white flowers grow in racemose clusters at nodes on short spurs. They are past flowering early in May.
The Cherries can be divided into three groups - the European, the American, and the Oriental. In general, the Oriental types (Prunus serrulata) are less hardy. This genus - Prunus comprises over 400 species and numerous cultivars of trees and shrubs growing in temperate climates mostly in the Northern Hemisphere.
It includes evergreen shrubs, flowering fruit trees, and all the stone fruits - almonds, apricots, cherries, nectarines, peaches, plums, and prunes. They are also very ornamental.
The National Cherry Blossom Festival is an annual celebration in Washington, D.C., commemorating the March 27, 1912, gift to the city of 3,000 Japanese cherry trees from the Mayor of Tokyo to strengthen the growing friendship between the United States and Japan. Cherry Blossoms are rooted deep in the culture of Japan and were used in ancient Japan to forecast how crops for the coming year would do. Modern Japan still celebrates Hanami - gatherings of friends to picnic under a canopy of Cherry Blossoms, enjoying the brief burst of the beauty of nature and springtime. Through the centuries, the Japanese have developed many different varieties of the Cherry tree. All of these trees bloom for a short time with pink or white flowers. Cherries are part of the rose family and like roses, most cherry trees bloom during the spring. A few varieties are grown to flower later and actually show their blossoms in autumn or even during winter! Normally, it is just a week to ten days before all of the blossoms are carried away by the wind.
Growing Cherry Blossoms
Cherries are propagated by budding them on seedling stocks in the nursery and are sold for planting stock as one or two-year-old trees. Sweet and Sour Cherries are fairly easy to grow. Sour Cherries, which are smaller and more tolerant of cold and heat, are easier to grow than sweet Cherries.
Sour cherries are self-pollinating so you don't have to plant two kinds. Sour Cherries also bloom later, which makes them less vulnerable to harm from late spring frosts.
Because of the fact that Cherry Blossom trees bloom early in spring and are susceptible to damage from late spring frosts, the site for growing Cherries should be slightly higher and sloped than the surrounding ground to prevent frosty air from settling in the low spots.
Cherry Blossom trees should be placed in a sheltered location with full sun, in soil that is deep, fertile and moist, but well drained.
Full sun exposure for Cherry Blossom trees is necessary to produce delicious Cherries and strong trees.
Cherry Blossom trees grown in shade will produce spindly branches and fewer cherries that are less sweet.
Sweet and sour Cherries are susceptible to most of the same problems.
Cherry Blossom Plant Care
Maintaining a clean surrounding is very important to keep pest and disease problems down for Cherry Blossom trees.
Bird problems on Cherry Blossom trees can be prevented by planting your trees near people or pets and by netting.
Diseased fruit, leaves, and prunings on Cherry Blossom trees should be removed immediately and either burned to kill insect larvae and disease spores or destroyed in a hot compost pile.
Some common problems seen in Cherry Blossom trees are Plum curculio, Brown rot, cherry fruit flies, cherry leaf spot and bacterial canker.
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1
文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月06日
BOTANICAL NAME: Jasminum Polyanthum
PLANT TYPE: Houseplant
SUN EXPOSURE: Full SunPart Sun
FLOWER COLOR: WhiteYellow
Jasmine is known for its intensely fragrant blossoms that flower all year to brighten your home. The starry flowers grow in lovely clusters of bright white (or yellow). Though jasmine is a vine grown outdoors, the plant grows easily indoors where vines aren’t handy.
PLANTING
Grow in a pot or hanging basket with any good potting or all-purpose soil.
CARE
During the spring and summer months Jasmine needs full sunlight.
In the winter months Jasmine still needs light, but it doesn’t have to be direct.
Soil should be moist and well-drained, but do not overwater.
During the summer allow the soil to be moist and let it dry between waterings. Water less in the fall. In the winter and spring months keep the plant slightly dry.
Prune after blooming season (which is spring) to shape the plant.
PESTS/DISEASES
Root rot and mealybugs are common.
PLANT TYPE: Houseplant
SUN EXPOSURE: Full SunPart Sun
FLOWER COLOR: WhiteYellow
Jasmine is known for its intensely fragrant blossoms that flower all year to brighten your home. The starry flowers grow in lovely clusters of bright white (or yellow). Though jasmine is a vine grown outdoors, the plant grows easily indoors where vines aren’t handy.
PLANTING
Grow in a pot or hanging basket with any good potting or all-purpose soil.
CARE
During the spring and summer months Jasmine needs full sunlight.
In the winter months Jasmine still needs light, but it doesn’t have to be direct.
Soil should be moist and well-drained, but do not overwater.
During the summer allow the soil to be moist and let it dry between waterings. Water less in the fall. In the winter and spring months keep the plant slightly dry.
Prune after blooming season (which is spring) to shape the plant.
PESTS/DISEASES
Root rot and mealybugs are common.
0
0
文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月06日
BOTANICAL NAME: Saintpaulia
PLANT TYPE: Houseplant
SUN EXPOSURE: Part Sun
SOIL PH: Slightly Acidic to Neutral
FLOWER COLOR: PinkPurpleWhite
African violets are small, easy to grow houseplants with clusters are small flowers over fuzzy leaves. They will bloom with lower light, though medium to bright indirect light is best. African violets can be a bit fussy.
PLANTING
You can use an actual African violet potting mix or an all-purpose potting soil. Keep them planted in small pots and re-pot once a year to allow fresh soil. The soil should be loose and well-drained, and high organic matter content is beneficial.
CARE
Keep the soil lightly moist every day and avoid getting the leaves wet. Use room temperature water.
Fertilize every 2 weeks with a high phosphorous plant food, but only during the summer growing season. Only start to fertilize when the plant appears to need an extra boost. Over-fertilizing is a more common problem than under-fertilizing.
Many varieties prefer warm conditions (65 degrees F or warmer) though some varieties can grow in cooler conditions.
Thin, dark green leaves tell you that the plant is getting too little light.
Plants should be shifted to larger pots as they grow. The optimal time for repotting is after some leaves have wilted a bit.
PESTS/DISEASES
Cyclamen mites can occur. They are very hard to remove, so dispose of plant and and isolate other plants that may have been surrounding the African violet.
Powdery Mildew
Various forms of rot and blight
PLANT TYPE: Houseplant
SUN EXPOSURE: Part Sun
SOIL PH: Slightly Acidic to Neutral
FLOWER COLOR: PinkPurpleWhite
African violets are small, easy to grow houseplants with clusters are small flowers over fuzzy leaves. They will bloom with lower light, though medium to bright indirect light is best. African violets can be a bit fussy.
PLANTING
You can use an actual African violet potting mix or an all-purpose potting soil. Keep them planted in small pots and re-pot once a year to allow fresh soil. The soil should be loose and well-drained, and high organic matter content is beneficial.
CARE
Keep the soil lightly moist every day and avoid getting the leaves wet. Use room temperature water.
Fertilize every 2 weeks with a high phosphorous plant food, but only during the summer growing season. Only start to fertilize when the plant appears to need an extra boost. Over-fertilizing is a more common problem than under-fertilizing.
Many varieties prefer warm conditions (65 degrees F or warmer) though some varieties can grow in cooler conditions.
Thin, dark green leaves tell you that the plant is getting too little light.
Plants should be shifted to larger pots as they grow. The optimal time for repotting is after some leaves have wilted a bit.
PESTS/DISEASES
Cyclamen mites can occur. They are very hard to remove, so dispose of plant and and isolate other plants that may have been surrounding the African violet.
Powdery Mildew
Various forms of rot and blight
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2
文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月06日
BOTANICAL NAME: Petunia
PLANT TYPE: Flower
FLOWER COLOR: PinkPurpleRedWhiteYellow
BLOOM TIME: SpringSummerFall
Petunias are divided into two different groups:
Grandiflora petunias have very large flowers and are best grown in containers or hanging baskets (because they are more susceptible to rain damage).
Multiflora petunias have smaller, but more abundant flowers and are ideal for summer bedding or in a mixed border (because they are more tolerant to wet weather).
PLANTING
You can grow petunias from seeds, but it is easier to grow them from transplants. If you are going to grow from seeds, start them indoors 10 to 12 weeks before you want to set them outside. Petunia seeds are very small and needs lots of light in order to germinate. Remember to water them. When the plants have three leaves, you can plant them outside.
It’s best to buy transplants and plant them in light, well-drained soil in full sun after the last spring frost. (See your local frost dates.) Petunias can grow in partial shade, but they will have fewer flowers. It’s better if the plants have shelter from the wind.
Space the plants about 1 foot apart.
If you’re planting petunias in containers, use a soil-less mix.
CARE
Petunias are tolerant of heat so you don’t have to water them regularly. A thorough watering once a week should be sufficient (unless there are prolonged periods of drought in your area). The spreading types and those in containers require more frequent watering though.
Fertilize your plants monthly to ensure good growth. Double-flowered cultivars like a biweekly dose of fertilizer.
Remove faded/dead flowers to prolong blooming.
PESTS/DISEASES
Aphids
Caterpillars
Leaf miners
Gray mold
Bacterial soft rot
Leaf spots
Viruses
PLANT TYPE: Flower
FLOWER COLOR: PinkPurpleRedWhiteYellow
BLOOM TIME: SpringSummerFall
Petunias are divided into two different groups:
Grandiflora petunias have very large flowers and are best grown in containers or hanging baskets (because they are more susceptible to rain damage).
Multiflora petunias have smaller, but more abundant flowers and are ideal for summer bedding or in a mixed border (because they are more tolerant to wet weather).
PLANTING
You can grow petunias from seeds, but it is easier to grow them from transplants. If you are going to grow from seeds, start them indoors 10 to 12 weeks before you want to set them outside. Petunia seeds are very small and needs lots of light in order to germinate. Remember to water them. When the plants have three leaves, you can plant them outside.
It’s best to buy transplants and plant them in light, well-drained soil in full sun after the last spring frost. (See your local frost dates.) Petunias can grow in partial shade, but they will have fewer flowers. It’s better if the plants have shelter from the wind.
Space the plants about 1 foot apart.
If you’re planting petunias in containers, use a soil-less mix.
CARE
Petunias are tolerant of heat so you don’t have to water them regularly. A thorough watering once a week should be sufficient (unless there are prolonged periods of drought in your area). The spreading types and those in containers require more frequent watering though.
Fertilize your plants monthly to ensure good growth. Double-flowered cultivars like a biweekly dose of fertilizer.
Remove faded/dead flowers to prolong blooming.
PESTS/DISEASES
Aphids
Caterpillars
Leaf miners
Gray mold
Bacterial soft rot
Leaf spots
Viruses
0
1
文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月06日
BOTANICAL NAME: Paeonia
PLANT TYPE: Flower
SUN EXPOSURE: Full SunPart Sun
SOIL TYPE: Loamy
SOIL PH: Neutral
FLOWER COLOR: PinkRedWhiteYellow
BLOOM TIME: Spring
Peony flowers are perennials that come back every spring to take your breath away. The plants may live longer than you do—some have been known to thrive for 100 years.
Peony plants require little maintenance as long as they are planted properly and establish themselves; they do not respond well to transplanting.
They’re hardy to Zone 3 and grow well as far south as Zones 7 and 8. In most of the country, the rules for success are simply full sun and well-drained soil. Peonies even relish cold winters, because they need chilling for bud formation.
Peonies make fine sentinels lining walkways and a lovely low hedge. After its stunning bloom, the peony’s bushy clump of handsome glossy green leaves lasts all summer, and then turns purplish or gold in the fall, as stately and dignified as any shrub.
In mixed borders, peonies bloom with columbines, baptisias, and veronicas, and combine well with irises and roses. Plant white peonies with yellow irises and a froth of forget-me-nots; set off pink peonies with blue Nepeta or violets.
PLANTING
When to Plant Peonies
Plant peonies in the fall: in late September and October in most of the country, and even later in the South. (If you must move an established plant, this is the time.)
Peonies should be settled into place before the first hard frost. Spring-planted peonies just don’t do as well, experts agree; they generally lag about a year behind those planted in the fall.
How to Plant Peonies
Grow peonies in deep, fertile, humus-rich, moist soil that drains well. Soil pH should be neutral.
The soil will benefit from the addition of organic material in the planting hole. If the soil is heavy or very sandy, enrich it with compost. Incorporate about 1 cup of bonemeal into the soil. Tamp soil firmly. Learn more about soil amendments and preparing soil for planting.
Peonies are not fussy, but choose your location wisely, as they resent disturbance. Provide shelter from strong winds. Plant away from trees or shrubs as peonies don’t like to compete for food and moisture. Space them three to four feet apart for good air circulation.
Peonies like full sun, and though they can manage with half a day, they bloom best in a sunny spot.
Peonies are usually sold as bare-root tubers with three to five eyes, divisions of a three- or four-year-old plant.
Dig a generous-sized hole, about two feet deep and two feet across in well-drained soil in a sunny spot. If the soil is heavy or very sandy, enrich it with compost. Incorporate about one cup of bonemeal into the soil. Tamp it firmly.
Set the root so the eyes face upward on top of the firmed soil, placing the root just 2 inches below the soil surface. (In southern states, choose early-blooming varieties, plant them about an inch deep, and provide some shade.)
Don’t plant too deep! In most of the country, the peony’s eyes (buds) should be no deeper than 1-½ to 2 inches below the soil line.
Then, backfill the hole, taking care that the soil doesn’t settle and bury the root deeper than 2 inches.
Water thoroughly.
CARE
Like children, young peonies take time to develop. They usually need a few years to establish themselves, bloom, and grow.
Peonies thrive on benign neglect. Unlike most perennials, they don’t need to be dug and divided.
Spare the fertilizer. Work the soil well before you plant, mixing in a little fertilizer, and that should be enough.
If your soil is poor, the time to apply fertilizer (bonemeal, compost, or well-rotted manure) is early summer, after the peonies have bloomed and you have deadheaded. Don’t fertilize more than every few years.
Help the stems. If peonies have any structural weakness, it is their stems, which are sometimes not strong enough to support their gigantic blossoms. Consider three-legged metal peony rings that allow the plant to grow through the center of the rings.
Deadhead peony blossoms as soon as they begin to fade, cutting to a strong leaf so that the stem doesn’t stick out of the foliage. Cut the foliage to the ground in the fall to avoid any overwintering disease.
Don’t smother peonies with mulch. Where cold temperatures are severe, for the first winter after planting you can mulch VERY loosely with pine needles or shredded bark. Remove mulch in the spring.
PESTS/DISEASES
Peonies are generally very hardy. They are susceptible to Verticillium wilt, ringspot virus, tip blight, stem rot, Botrytis blight, leaf blotch, Japanese beetle, and nematodes.
Many gardeners wonder why so many ants crawl on the peony buds. They are eating nectar in exchange for attacking bud-eating pests. Never spray the ants; they’re helping you nurture peonies to bloom!
Luckily, peonies are also one of many deer-resistant plants you can grow in your garden.
PLANT TYPE: Flower
SUN EXPOSURE: Full SunPart Sun
SOIL TYPE: Loamy
SOIL PH: Neutral
FLOWER COLOR: PinkRedWhiteYellow
BLOOM TIME: Spring
Peony flowers are perennials that come back every spring to take your breath away. The plants may live longer than you do—some have been known to thrive for 100 years.
Peony plants require little maintenance as long as they are planted properly and establish themselves; they do not respond well to transplanting.
They’re hardy to Zone 3 and grow well as far south as Zones 7 and 8. In most of the country, the rules for success are simply full sun and well-drained soil. Peonies even relish cold winters, because they need chilling for bud formation.
Peonies make fine sentinels lining walkways and a lovely low hedge. After its stunning bloom, the peony’s bushy clump of handsome glossy green leaves lasts all summer, and then turns purplish or gold in the fall, as stately and dignified as any shrub.
In mixed borders, peonies bloom with columbines, baptisias, and veronicas, and combine well with irises and roses. Plant white peonies with yellow irises and a froth of forget-me-nots; set off pink peonies with blue Nepeta or violets.
PLANTING
When to Plant Peonies
Plant peonies in the fall: in late September and October in most of the country, and even later in the South. (If you must move an established plant, this is the time.)
Peonies should be settled into place before the first hard frost. Spring-planted peonies just don’t do as well, experts agree; they generally lag about a year behind those planted in the fall.
How to Plant Peonies
Grow peonies in deep, fertile, humus-rich, moist soil that drains well. Soil pH should be neutral.
The soil will benefit from the addition of organic material in the planting hole. If the soil is heavy or very sandy, enrich it with compost. Incorporate about 1 cup of bonemeal into the soil. Tamp soil firmly. Learn more about soil amendments and preparing soil for planting.
Peonies are not fussy, but choose your location wisely, as they resent disturbance. Provide shelter from strong winds. Plant away from trees or shrubs as peonies don’t like to compete for food and moisture. Space them three to four feet apart for good air circulation.
Peonies like full sun, and though they can manage with half a day, they bloom best in a sunny spot.
Peonies are usually sold as bare-root tubers with three to five eyes, divisions of a three- or four-year-old plant.
Dig a generous-sized hole, about two feet deep and two feet across in well-drained soil in a sunny spot. If the soil is heavy or very sandy, enrich it with compost. Incorporate about one cup of bonemeal into the soil. Tamp it firmly.
Set the root so the eyes face upward on top of the firmed soil, placing the root just 2 inches below the soil surface. (In southern states, choose early-blooming varieties, plant them about an inch deep, and provide some shade.)
Don’t plant too deep! In most of the country, the peony’s eyes (buds) should be no deeper than 1-½ to 2 inches below the soil line.
Then, backfill the hole, taking care that the soil doesn’t settle and bury the root deeper than 2 inches.
Water thoroughly.
CARE
Like children, young peonies take time to develop. They usually need a few years to establish themselves, bloom, and grow.
Peonies thrive on benign neglect. Unlike most perennials, they don’t need to be dug and divided.
Spare the fertilizer. Work the soil well before you plant, mixing in a little fertilizer, and that should be enough.
If your soil is poor, the time to apply fertilizer (bonemeal, compost, or well-rotted manure) is early summer, after the peonies have bloomed and you have deadheaded. Don’t fertilize more than every few years.
Help the stems. If peonies have any structural weakness, it is their stems, which are sometimes not strong enough to support their gigantic blossoms. Consider three-legged metal peony rings that allow the plant to grow through the center of the rings.
Deadhead peony blossoms as soon as they begin to fade, cutting to a strong leaf so that the stem doesn’t stick out of the foliage. Cut the foliage to the ground in the fall to avoid any overwintering disease.
Don’t smother peonies with mulch. Where cold temperatures are severe, for the first winter after planting you can mulch VERY loosely with pine needles or shredded bark. Remove mulch in the spring.
PESTS/DISEASES
Peonies are generally very hardy. They are susceptible to Verticillium wilt, ringspot virus, tip blight, stem rot, Botrytis blight, leaf blotch, Japanese beetle, and nematodes.
Many gardeners wonder why so many ants crawl on the peony buds. They are eating nectar in exchange for attacking bud-eating pests. Never spray the ants; they’re helping you nurture peonies to bloom!
Luckily, peonies are also one of many deer-resistant plants you can grow in your garden.
0
0
文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月06日
BOTANICAL NAME: Tropaeolum majus
PLANT TYPE: Flower
FLOWER COLOR: OrangeRedYellow
BLOOM TIME: SummerFall
Nasturtium is an easy-to-grow annual whose leaves and flowers are edible. Here’s how to grow your own nasturtiums!
These plants, with their bright greenery and vibrant flowers, are good for containers or as ground cover. Their pretty fragrance also makes them a good choice for cut flowers. Nasturtiums are perfect to grow with children because they grow so easily and rapidly.
PLANTING
You can start the seeds indoors 4 to 6 weeks before the last spring frost. See your local frost dates.
Plant nasturtium seeds in early spring in moist, well-drained soil in full sun. They can grow in partial shade, but they will not bloom as well.
Nasturtiums prefer poorer soils and they do not need fertilizers (unless your soil is extremely poor). Fertile soil will produce fewer blooms and more foliage.
Plant the seeds about half an inch deep and 10 to 12 inches apart. Plants should appear in 7 to 10 days.
CARE
Water regularly throughout the growing season, but be careful not to over-water your plants.
Cutting off the faded/dead flowers will prolong blooming.
If you’re growing nasturtiums in containers, they may need to be trimmed back occasionally over the growing season.
PESTS/DISEASES
Flea beetles
Caterpillars
Aphids
Slugs
Whiteflies
Viruses
PLANT TYPE: Flower
FLOWER COLOR: OrangeRedYellow
BLOOM TIME: SummerFall
Nasturtium is an easy-to-grow annual whose leaves and flowers are edible. Here’s how to grow your own nasturtiums!
These plants, with their bright greenery and vibrant flowers, are good for containers or as ground cover. Their pretty fragrance also makes them a good choice for cut flowers. Nasturtiums are perfect to grow with children because they grow so easily and rapidly.
PLANTING
You can start the seeds indoors 4 to 6 weeks before the last spring frost. See your local frost dates.
Plant nasturtium seeds in early spring in moist, well-drained soil in full sun. They can grow in partial shade, but they will not bloom as well.
Nasturtiums prefer poorer soils and they do not need fertilizers (unless your soil is extremely poor). Fertile soil will produce fewer blooms and more foliage.
Plant the seeds about half an inch deep and 10 to 12 inches apart. Plants should appear in 7 to 10 days.
CARE
Water regularly throughout the growing season, but be careful not to over-water your plants.
Cutting off the faded/dead flowers will prolong blooming.
If you’re growing nasturtiums in containers, they may need to be trimmed back occasionally over the growing season.
PESTS/DISEASES
Flea beetles
Caterpillars
Aphids
Slugs
Whiteflies
Viruses
1
0
文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月06日
BOTANICAL NAME: Tagetes
PLANT TYPE: Flower
SUN EXPOSURE: Full Sun
SOIL TYPE: ClayLoamySandy
FLOWER COLOR: OrangeYellow
BLOOM TIME: SpringSummerFall
No annual is more cheerful or easier to grow than marigolds. These flowers are the spendthrifts among annuals, showing a wealth of gold, copper, and brass into our summer and autumn gardens. The flower’s popularity probably derives in part from its ability to bloom brightly all summer long.
Marigolds have daisy-like or double, carnation-like flowerheads and are produced singly or in clusters. Although there are some 50 species, most marigolds we know come from just three:
Tagetes erecta are the tallest and most upright, at three to five feet. They are sometimes known as African, or American, marigolds. They thrive under hot, dry conditions.
Bushy T. patula, or French marigolds, are somewhat smaller and more compact. They are often wider than they are tall. Elegant and eye-catching, they have relatively demure flowers and usually grow from 6 inches to 2 feet tall.
The dainty T. tenuifolia are the signet, or rock-garden, marigolds that like hot, dry sites and make a wonderful edging. Their flowers are edible.
Marigolds have been sterotyped, but they offer tremendous variety. Both the African and French marigolds are generally aromatic, too.
French and signet types can be planted anytime through midsummer, but the tall American marigolds are best planted right away in the spring (after danger of frost is past) because they are slower to mature.
PLANTING
Marigolds thrive in full sunshine and can often withstand very hot summers.
Though they grow in almost any soil, marigolds thrive in moderately fertile, well-drained soil. Prepare the soil by digging down about 6 inches to loosen it. Remove stones.
Optional: Add some granular fertilizer in the planting hole. A 5-10-5 works fine.
Sow them directly into the garden once the soil is warm. You can start seeds indoors but they germinate so easily outside that there’s really no advantage. Marigolds sprout within days in warm weather and plants bloom in about 8 weeks.
Sow seed 1-inch apart. While still small, thin the seedlings. Space French and Signet types 8 to 10 inches apart. Larger American varieties should be at least 10 to 12 inches apart.
After planting, thoroughly water each plant.
Separate seedlings when they are about 2 inches tall. Plant them in flats of loose soil, or transplant them into the garden.
If planting in containers, use a soil-based potting mix. Either mix in slow-acting granular fertilizer at planting time or plan to water in diluted liquid fertilizer periodically. Take care to space properly; marigolds grown in containers can become crowded.
CARE
Germination from large, easily handled seeds is rapid, and blooms should appear within a few weeks of sowing.
Marigolds don’t require deadheading, but if the spent blossoms of the American type are clipped, the plants will continue to bloom profusely.
When you water marigolds, allow the soil to dry somewhat between waterings, then water well and repeat the process. Water in high heat.
Do not water marigolds from overhead. Water at the base of the plant.
Do not fertilize marigolds during growth. Too rich a diet stimulates lush foliage at the expense of flowers.
The densely double flowerheads of the African marigolds tend to rot in wet weather.
Add a layer of mulch between plants to suppress weeds and keep soil moist, especially when plants are young.
PESTS/DISEASES
Farmers and gardeners have long known that marigolds make important companion plants all over the garden. The underground workings of the marigold will repel nematodes (microscopic worms) and other pests for up to 3 years.
Marigolds have few pests or problems. Mites and aphids sometimes infest marigolds. Usually a spray of water or an insecticidal soap, repeated every other day for a week or two, will solve the problem
Occasionally marigolds will get a fungal infection if it’s often wet. Avoid watering on the leaves, keep weeds down, and plant in well-drained soil.
PLANT TYPE: Flower
SUN EXPOSURE: Full Sun
SOIL TYPE: ClayLoamySandy
FLOWER COLOR: OrangeYellow
BLOOM TIME: SpringSummerFall
No annual is more cheerful or easier to grow than marigolds. These flowers are the spendthrifts among annuals, showing a wealth of gold, copper, and brass into our summer and autumn gardens. The flower’s popularity probably derives in part from its ability to bloom brightly all summer long.
Marigolds have daisy-like or double, carnation-like flowerheads and are produced singly or in clusters. Although there are some 50 species, most marigolds we know come from just three:
Tagetes erecta are the tallest and most upright, at three to five feet. They are sometimes known as African, or American, marigolds. They thrive under hot, dry conditions.
Bushy T. patula, or French marigolds, are somewhat smaller and more compact. They are often wider than they are tall. Elegant and eye-catching, they have relatively demure flowers and usually grow from 6 inches to 2 feet tall.
The dainty T. tenuifolia are the signet, or rock-garden, marigolds that like hot, dry sites and make a wonderful edging. Their flowers are edible.
Marigolds have been sterotyped, but they offer tremendous variety. Both the African and French marigolds are generally aromatic, too.
French and signet types can be planted anytime through midsummer, but the tall American marigolds are best planted right away in the spring (after danger of frost is past) because they are slower to mature.
PLANTING
Marigolds thrive in full sunshine and can often withstand very hot summers.
Though they grow in almost any soil, marigolds thrive in moderately fertile, well-drained soil. Prepare the soil by digging down about 6 inches to loosen it. Remove stones.
Optional: Add some granular fertilizer in the planting hole. A 5-10-5 works fine.
Sow them directly into the garden once the soil is warm. You can start seeds indoors but they germinate so easily outside that there’s really no advantage. Marigolds sprout within days in warm weather and plants bloom in about 8 weeks.
Sow seed 1-inch apart. While still small, thin the seedlings. Space French and Signet types 8 to 10 inches apart. Larger American varieties should be at least 10 to 12 inches apart.
After planting, thoroughly water each plant.
Separate seedlings when they are about 2 inches tall. Plant them in flats of loose soil, or transplant them into the garden.
If planting in containers, use a soil-based potting mix. Either mix in slow-acting granular fertilizer at planting time or plan to water in diluted liquid fertilizer periodically. Take care to space properly; marigolds grown in containers can become crowded.
CARE
Germination from large, easily handled seeds is rapid, and blooms should appear within a few weeks of sowing.
Marigolds don’t require deadheading, but if the spent blossoms of the American type are clipped, the plants will continue to bloom profusely.
When you water marigolds, allow the soil to dry somewhat between waterings, then water well and repeat the process. Water in high heat.
Do not water marigolds from overhead. Water at the base of the plant.
Do not fertilize marigolds during growth. Too rich a diet stimulates lush foliage at the expense of flowers.
The densely double flowerheads of the African marigolds tend to rot in wet weather.
Add a layer of mulch between plants to suppress weeds and keep soil moist, especially when plants are young.
PESTS/DISEASES
Farmers and gardeners have long known that marigolds make important companion plants all over the garden. The underground workings of the marigold will repel nematodes (microscopic worms) and other pests for up to 3 years.
Marigolds have few pests or problems. Mites and aphids sometimes infest marigolds. Usually a spray of water or an insecticidal soap, repeated every other day for a week or two, will solve the problem
Occasionally marigolds will get a fungal infection if it’s often wet. Avoid watering on the leaves, keep weeds down, and plant in well-drained soil.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月05日
BOTANICAL NAME: Dahlia
PLANT TYPE: Flower
SUN EXPOSURE: Full Sun
SOIL TYPE: LoamySandy
FLOWER COLOR: OrangePinkPurpleRedWhiteYellow
BLOOM TIME: Summer
Dahlias are colorful spiky flowers which generally bloom from midsummer to first frost, when many other plants are past their best.
In the cold climates of North America, dahlias are known as tuberous-rooted tender perennials, grown from small, brown, biennial tubers planted in the spring.
Dahlias come in a rainbow of colors and even range in size, from the giant 10-inch “dinnerplate” blooms to the 2-inch lollipop-style pompons. Most varieties grow 4 to 5 feet tall.
Though not well suited to extremely hot and humid climates, such as much of Texas and Florida, dahlias brighten up any sunny garden with a growing season that’s at least 120 days long. Dahlias thrive in the cool, moist climates of the Pacific Coast, where blooms may be an inch larger and deeper.
PLANTING
Don’t be in a hurry to plant; dahlias will struggle in cold soil. Ground temperature should reach 60°F. Wait until all danger of spring frost is past before planting. (We plant them a little after the tomato plants go in.)
Select a planting site with full sun. Dahlias grow more blooms with 6 to 8 hours of direct sunlight. They love the morning sunlight best. Choose a location with a bit of protection from the wind.
Dahlias thrive in rich, well-drained soil. The pH level of your soil should be 6.5-7.0, slightly acidic.If you have a heavier soil, add in sand, peat moss or bagged steer manure to lighten and loosen the soil texture for better drainage.
Bedding dahlias can be planted 9 to 12 inches apart. The smaller flowering types, which are usually about three feet tall, should be spaced two feet apart. The taller, larger-flowered dahlias should be spaced three feet apart.
The planting hole should be slightly larger than the root ball of the plant and incorporate some compost or sphagnum peat moss into the soil. It also helps to mix a handful of bonemeal into the planting hole. Otherwise, do not fertilize at planting.
Avoid dahlia tubers that appear wrinkled or rotten. A little bit of green growth is a good sign. Don’t break or cut individual dahlia tubers as you would potatoes.
Plant them whole, with the growing points, or “eyes,” facing up, about 6 to 8 inches deep. The crowns should be just above soil level.
Tall, large-flowered cultivars will require support. Place stakes (five to six feet tall) around plants at planting time and tie stems to them as the plants grow.
Large dahlias and those grown solely for cut flowers are best grown in a dedicated plot in rows on their own, free from competition from other plants. Dahlias of medium to low height mix well with other summer flowers. If you only have a vegetable garden, it’s the perfect place to put a row of dahlias for cutting (and something to look at while you’re weeding!).
Dahlias start blooming about 8 weeks after planting, starting in mid-July.
Some gardeners start tubers indoors a month ahead to get a jump on the season.
Do not water the tubers right after planting; this encourages rot. Wait until the sprouts have appeared above the soil to water.
Do not cover the dahlias with mulch or bark or sprouting is more challenging; apply slug and snail bait to avoid garden pests.
CARE
There’s no need to water the soil until the dahlia plants appear; in fact, overwatering can cause tubers to rot. After dahlias are established, provide a deep watering 2 to 3 times a week for at least 30 minutes with a sprinkler (and more in dry, hot climates).
Dahlias benefit from a low-nitrogen liquid fertilizer (similar to what you would use for vegetables) such as a 5-10-10 or 10-20-20. Fertilize after sprouting and then every 3 to 4 weeks from mid-summer until early Autumn. Do NOT overfertilize, especially with nitrogen, or you risk small/no blooms, weak tubers, or rot.
Like many large-flower hybrid plants, the big dahlias may need extra attention before or after rain, when open blooms tend to fill up with water or take a beating from the wind.
Bedding dahlias need no staking or disbudding; simply pinch out the growing point to encourage bushiness, and deadhead as the flowers fade. Pinch the center shoot just above the third set of leaves.
For the taller dahlias, insert stakes at planting time. Moderately pinch, disbranch, and disbud, and deadhead to produce a showy display for 3 months or more.
Dahlia foliage blackens with the first frost.
Dahlias are hearty to zone 8 and can be cut back and left in the ground to overwinter; cover with a deep, dry mulch. Elsewhere, the tuberous roots should be lifted and stored during the winter. (Some readers find, however, that dahlias will survive in zone 7 if the winter isn’t too severe.)
PESTS/DISEASES
Slugs and snails: Bait 2 weeks after planting and continue to bait throughout the season.
Mites: To avoid spider mites, spray beginning in late July and continue to spray through September. Speak to your garden center about recommended sprays for your area.
Earwigs and Cucumber Beetle: They can eat the petals though they do not hurt the plant itself.
Aphids
Deer: Find a list of deer-resistant plants to grow around your dahlias.
Powdery Mildew: This commonly shows up in the fall. You can preventatively spray before this issue arises from late July to August.
PLANT TYPE: Flower
SUN EXPOSURE: Full Sun
SOIL TYPE: LoamySandy
FLOWER COLOR: OrangePinkPurpleRedWhiteYellow
BLOOM TIME: Summer
Dahlias are colorful spiky flowers which generally bloom from midsummer to first frost, when many other plants are past their best.
In the cold climates of North America, dahlias are known as tuberous-rooted tender perennials, grown from small, brown, biennial tubers planted in the spring.
Dahlias come in a rainbow of colors and even range in size, from the giant 10-inch “dinnerplate” blooms to the 2-inch lollipop-style pompons. Most varieties grow 4 to 5 feet tall.
Though not well suited to extremely hot and humid climates, such as much of Texas and Florida, dahlias brighten up any sunny garden with a growing season that’s at least 120 days long. Dahlias thrive in the cool, moist climates of the Pacific Coast, where blooms may be an inch larger and deeper.
PLANTING
Don’t be in a hurry to plant; dahlias will struggle in cold soil. Ground temperature should reach 60°F. Wait until all danger of spring frost is past before planting. (We plant them a little after the tomato plants go in.)
Select a planting site with full sun. Dahlias grow more blooms with 6 to 8 hours of direct sunlight. They love the morning sunlight best. Choose a location with a bit of protection from the wind.
Dahlias thrive in rich, well-drained soil. The pH level of your soil should be 6.5-7.0, slightly acidic.If you have a heavier soil, add in sand, peat moss or bagged steer manure to lighten and loosen the soil texture for better drainage.
Bedding dahlias can be planted 9 to 12 inches apart. The smaller flowering types, which are usually about three feet tall, should be spaced two feet apart. The taller, larger-flowered dahlias should be spaced three feet apart.
The planting hole should be slightly larger than the root ball of the plant and incorporate some compost or sphagnum peat moss into the soil. It also helps to mix a handful of bonemeal into the planting hole. Otherwise, do not fertilize at planting.
Avoid dahlia tubers that appear wrinkled or rotten. A little bit of green growth is a good sign. Don’t break or cut individual dahlia tubers as you would potatoes.
Plant them whole, with the growing points, or “eyes,” facing up, about 6 to 8 inches deep. The crowns should be just above soil level.
Tall, large-flowered cultivars will require support. Place stakes (five to six feet tall) around plants at planting time and tie stems to them as the plants grow.
Large dahlias and those grown solely for cut flowers are best grown in a dedicated plot in rows on their own, free from competition from other plants. Dahlias of medium to low height mix well with other summer flowers. If you only have a vegetable garden, it’s the perfect place to put a row of dahlias for cutting (and something to look at while you’re weeding!).
Dahlias start blooming about 8 weeks after planting, starting in mid-July.
Some gardeners start tubers indoors a month ahead to get a jump on the season.
Do not water the tubers right after planting; this encourages rot. Wait until the sprouts have appeared above the soil to water.
Do not cover the dahlias with mulch or bark or sprouting is more challenging; apply slug and snail bait to avoid garden pests.
CARE
There’s no need to water the soil until the dahlia plants appear; in fact, overwatering can cause tubers to rot. After dahlias are established, provide a deep watering 2 to 3 times a week for at least 30 minutes with a sprinkler (and more in dry, hot climates).
Dahlias benefit from a low-nitrogen liquid fertilizer (similar to what you would use for vegetables) such as a 5-10-10 or 10-20-20. Fertilize after sprouting and then every 3 to 4 weeks from mid-summer until early Autumn. Do NOT overfertilize, especially with nitrogen, or you risk small/no blooms, weak tubers, or rot.
Like many large-flower hybrid plants, the big dahlias may need extra attention before or after rain, when open blooms tend to fill up with water or take a beating from the wind.
Bedding dahlias need no staking or disbudding; simply pinch out the growing point to encourage bushiness, and deadhead as the flowers fade. Pinch the center shoot just above the third set of leaves.
For the taller dahlias, insert stakes at planting time. Moderately pinch, disbranch, and disbud, and deadhead to produce a showy display for 3 months or more.
Dahlia foliage blackens with the first frost.
Dahlias are hearty to zone 8 and can be cut back and left in the ground to overwinter; cover with a deep, dry mulch. Elsewhere, the tuberous roots should be lifted and stored during the winter. (Some readers find, however, that dahlias will survive in zone 7 if the winter isn’t too severe.)
PESTS/DISEASES
Slugs and snails: Bait 2 weeks after planting and continue to bait throughout the season.
Mites: To avoid spider mites, spray beginning in late July and continue to spray through September. Speak to your garden center about recommended sprays for your area.
Earwigs and Cucumber Beetle: They can eat the petals though they do not hurt the plant itself.
Aphids
Deer: Find a list of deer-resistant plants to grow around your dahlias.
Powdery Mildew: This commonly shows up in the fall. You can preventatively spray before this issue arises from late July to August.
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1
文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月05日
BOTANICAL NAME: Cosmos
PLANT TYPE: Flower
SUN EXPOSURE: Full Sun
SOIL TYPE: Loamy
FLOWER COLOR: OrangePinkWhite
BLOOM TIME: SummerFall
SPECIAL FEATURES: Attracts BirdsAttracts Butterflies
Cosmos are annuals, grown for their showy flowers. The flowerheads may be bowl– or open cup–shaped and sit atop long stems. Here’s how to grow cosmos flowers in your garden.
Cosmos are easy to grow and make good border or container plants. Cosmos flowers make for good decorations in flower arrangements and also attract birds, bees, and butterflies to your garden.
Cosmos produce 3- to 5-inch daisy-like flowers in various colors, including pink, orange, red and yellow, white, and maroon. These beautiful plants can reach 6 feet tall.
PLANTING
If you want a head start, you can plant cosmos indoors 4 to 6 weeks before the last spring frost in trays or pots with a good seed-starting mixture. Seedlings grow fast, so move them into 5-inch pots as soon as they’re 3 or 4 inches tall.
Plant seeds in moist, well-drained soil about ¼-inch deep and 12–18 inches apart after the danger of frost has passed. You can also plant transplants instead of seeds. These also like soil that is not too rich, as rich soil will encourage foliage at the expense of bloom.
Cosmos flowers can tolerate warm, dry weather.
Depending on the type of flower, cosmos can grow anywhere between 18–60 inches tall.
If you are growing cosmos from seeds, be mindful that it takes about 7 weeks to first bloom. After that, though, your flowers should continue to bloom until the next frost.
If you let the spiky-brown seed heads blow away during the fall, cosmos might sow themselves throughout your garden.
CARE
In order to prolong flowering, you should deadhead the plants (remove the dead/faded flowers). This speeds up flower development and aids branching.
Because some of these plants can grow really tall, staking may be necessary. Offer them protection from strong winds, encourage balanced branching by pinching out central shoots or stem tips, or stake them. Growing them against a fence can also provide the necessary support.
Water regularly, but make sure you don’t over-water the plants. Over-watering and over-fertilization can lead to plants with fewer flowers. Cosmos can tolerate dry soil, even in a hot, arid, sunbaked spot.
Cosmos beds may become weedy due to the fact that they self-seed, so remember to check them.
PESTS/DISEASES
Stem canker
Powdery mildew
Gray mold
Aphids
PLANT TYPE: Flower
SUN EXPOSURE: Full Sun
SOIL TYPE: Loamy
FLOWER COLOR: OrangePinkWhite
BLOOM TIME: SummerFall
SPECIAL FEATURES: Attracts BirdsAttracts Butterflies
Cosmos are annuals, grown for their showy flowers. The flowerheads may be bowl– or open cup–shaped and sit atop long stems. Here’s how to grow cosmos flowers in your garden.
Cosmos are easy to grow and make good border or container plants. Cosmos flowers make for good decorations in flower arrangements and also attract birds, bees, and butterflies to your garden.
Cosmos produce 3- to 5-inch daisy-like flowers in various colors, including pink, orange, red and yellow, white, and maroon. These beautiful plants can reach 6 feet tall.
PLANTING
If you want a head start, you can plant cosmos indoors 4 to 6 weeks before the last spring frost in trays or pots with a good seed-starting mixture. Seedlings grow fast, so move them into 5-inch pots as soon as they’re 3 or 4 inches tall.
Plant seeds in moist, well-drained soil about ¼-inch deep and 12–18 inches apart after the danger of frost has passed. You can also plant transplants instead of seeds. These also like soil that is not too rich, as rich soil will encourage foliage at the expense of bloom.
Cosmos flowers can tolerate warm, dry weather.
Depending on the type of flower, cosmos can grow anywhere between 18–60 inches tall.
If you are growing cosmos from seeds, be mindful that it takes about 7 weeks to first bloom. After that, though, your flowers should continue to bloom until the next frost.
If you let the spiky-brown seed heads blow away during the fall, cosmos might sow themselves throughout your garden.
CARE
In order to prolong flowering, you should deadhead the plants (remove the dead/faded flowers). This speeds up flower development and aids branching.
Because some of these plants can grow really tall, staking may be necessary. Offer them protection from strong winds, encourage balanced branching by pinching out central shoots or stem tips, or stake them. Growing them against a fence can also provide the necessary support.
Water regularly, but make sure you don’t over-water the plants. Over-watering and over-fertilization can lead to plants with fewer flowers. Cosmos can tolerate dry soil, even in a hot, arid, sunbaked spot.
Cosmos beds may become weedy due to the fact that they self-seed, so remember to check them.
PESTS/DISEASES
Stem canker
Powdery mildew
Gray mold
Aphids
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1
文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月05日
BOTANICAL NAME: Thymus vulgaris
PLANT TYPE: Herb
SUN EXPOSURE: Full SunPart Sun
SOIL TYPE: LoamySandy
Thyme is a small perennial shrub with lots of branches and light purple to pink flowers. Here’s how to grow thyme in your own garden.
Thyme is aromatic and has a pleasant, pungent, clover flavor. There are over fifty varieties used in cooking and gardening. English thyme is used most often in cooking.
PLANTING
It’s hard to grow thyme from seeds because of slow, uneven germination. It’s easier to buy the plants or take some cuttings from a friend.
For a head start, plant the seeds/cuttings indoors 6 to 10 weeks before the last spring frost. (See your local frost dates.)
Plant the seeds/cuttings 2 to 3 weeks before the last spring frost in well-drained soil about 9 inches apart. For best growth, the soil should be about 70ºF.
The plants should grow 6 to 12 inches in height.
In the garden, plant thyme near cabbage or tomatoes.
CARE
Water normally and remember to trim the plants when they get leggy.
Prune the plants back in the spring and summer to contain the growth. You can take some cuttings and plant them indoors in pots, too.
If you have cold winters, remember to lightly mulch around the plants after the ground freezes.
PESTS/DISEASES
Gray mold
Root rot
PLANT TYPE: Herb
SUN EXPOSURE: Full SunPart Sun
SOIL TYPE: LoamySandy
Thyme is a small perennial shrub with lots of branches and light purple to pink flowers. Here’s how to grow thyme in your own garden.
Thyme is aromatic and has a pleasant, pungent, clover flavor. There are over fifty varieties used in cooking and gardening. English thyme is used most often in cooking.
PLANTING
It’s hard to grow thyme from seeds because of slow, uneven germination. It’s easier to buy the plants or take some cuttings from a friend.
For a head start, plant the seeds/cuttings indoors 6 to 10 weeks before the last spring frost. (See your local frost dates.)
Plant the seeds/cuttings 2 to 3 weeks before the last spring frost in well-drained soil about 9 inches apart. For best growth, the soil should be about 70ºF.
The plants should grow 6 to 12 inches in height.
In the garden, plant thyme near cabbage or tomatoes.
CARE
Water normally and remember to trim the plants when they get leggy.
Prune the plants back in the spring and summer to contain the growth. You can take some cuttings and plant them indoors in pots, too.
If you have cold winters, remember to lightly mulch around the plants after the ground freezes.
PESTS/DISEASES
Gray mold
Root rot
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月05日
BOTANICAL NAME: Artemisia dracunculus
PLANT TYPE: Herb
SUN EXPOSURE: Full SunFull SunPart Sun
SOIL TYPE: LoamySandy
Tarragon is a perennial herb with long, light green leaves and tiny greenish or yellowish white flowers. For cooking, use French tarragon. Russian tarragon can easily be mistaken for French, but Russian tarragon is coarser and less flavorful than French tarragon.
PLANTING
You can’t grow French tarragon from seeds. You must purchase the plants or take an established plant from a friend’s garden. Get the transplants in the spring or fall.
Plant the transplants in well-drained soil about 2 to 3 feet apart in order to give each plant room to grow. A full-grown plant should cover about 12 inches of soil.
The plants should grow to around 2 or 3 feet in height.
Tarragon is a good companion to most vegetables in the garden.
CARE
Be sure to prune the plant regularly to prevent flowering and to keep the height to around 2 feet (otherwise the plant will fall over).
If you live in a colder climate, be sure to put mulch around the plants in late fall in order to protect the roots during the winter.
To help keep your plants healthy, divide them every 3 to 4 years in the spring or fall. New plants can grow from stem cuttings or root cuttings.
PESTS/DISEASES
Many rusts, including white rust
Downy mildew
Powdery mildew
Various fungal leaf and stem diseases
PLANT TYPE: Herb
SUN EXPOSURE: Full SunFull SunPart Sun
SOIL TYPE: LoamySandy
Tarragon is a perennial herb with long, light green leaves and tiny greenish or yellowish white flowers. For cooking, use French tarragon. Russian tarragon can easily be mistaken for French, but Russian tarragon is coarser and less flavorful than French tarragon.
PLANTING
You can’t grow French tarragon from seeds. You must purchase the plants or take an established plant from a friend’s garden. Get the transplants in the spring or fall.
Plant the transplants in well-drained soil about 2 to 3 feet apart in order to give each plant room to grow. A full-grown plant should cover about 12 inches of soil.
The plants should grow to around 2 or 3 feet in height.
Tarragon is a good companion to most vegetables in the garden.
CARE
Be sure to prune the plant regularly to prevent flowering and to keep the height to around 2 feet (otherwise the plant will fall over).
If you live in a colder climate, be sure to put mulch around the plants in late fall in order to protect the roots during the winter.
To help keep your plants healthy, divide them every 3 to 4 years in the spring or fall. New plants can grow from stem cuttings or root cuttings.
PESTS/DISEASES
Many rusts, including white rust
Downy mildew
Powdery mildew
Various fungal leaf and stem diseases
0
0
文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月05日
BOTANICAL NAME: Rosmarinus officinalis
PLANT TYPE: Herb
SUN EXPOSURE: Full Sun
SOIL TYPE: LoamySandy
FLOWER COLOR: Blue
Rosemary is a perennial evergreen shrub with blue flowers. It is a pungent and distinctive herb with a sweet, resinous flavor. Here’s how to grow your own rosemary plants.
Rosemary is ideal for a rock garden or the top of a dry wall. It is often used for seasoning poultry, lamb, stews, and soups.
PLANTING
For a head start, plant the seeds or cuttings indoors 8 to 10 weeks before the last spring frost. See your local frost dates.
Plant the seeds/cuttings in well-drained soil. For best growth, the soil should be around 70ºF.
Be sure to give your plants enough room to grow. Rosemary grows to about 4 feet tall and spreads about 4 feet as well.
In the garden, plant near beans, cabbage, carrots, and sage. Learn more about companion planting with herbs.
CARE
After the rosemary plant flowers, remember to trim the plant.
For fresh rosemary in the winter, grow the plant indoors in a pot. Be sure to put it in bright light and cool temperatures.
Prune regularly so that the plant won’t get lanky.
Water the plants evenly throughout the growing season.
Be sure to get cuttings or divide the plant for next season.
PESTS/DISEASES
Aerial blight
Bacterial leaf spots
Several types of root rot
PLANT TYPE: Herb
SUN EXPOSURE: Full Sun
SOIL TYPE: LoamySandy
FLOWER COLOR: Blue
Rosemary is a perennial evergreen shrub with blue flowers. It is a pungent and distinctive herb with a sweet, resinous flavor. Here’s how to grow your own rosemary plants.
Rosemary is ideal for a rock garden or the top of a dry wall. It is often used for seasoning poultry, lamb, stews, and soups.
PLANTING
For a head start, plant the seeds or cuttings indoors 8 to 10 weeks before the last spring frost. See your local frost dates.
Plant the seeds/cuttings in well-drained soil. For best growth, the soil should be around 70ºF.
Be sure to give your plants enough room to grow. Rosemary grows to about 4 feet tall and spreads about 4 feet as well.
In the garden, plant near beans, cabbage, carrots, and sage. Learn more about companion planting with herbs.
CARE
After the rosemary plant flowers, remember to trim the plant.
For fresh rosemary in the winter, grow the plant indoors in a pot. Be sure to put it in bright light and cool temperatures.
Prune regularly so that the plant won’t get lanky.
Water the plants evenly throughout the growing season.
Be sure to get cuttings or divide the plant for next season.
PESTS/DISEASES
Aerial blight
Bacterial leaf spots
Several types of root rot
0
0
文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月05日
BOTANICAL NAME: Origanum
PLANT TYPE: Herb
SUN EXPOSURE: Full Sun
SOIL TYPE: Loamy
Oregano is a perennial herb with rose-purple or white flowers and a taste reminiscent of thyme. Here’s how to grow oregano plants in your garden—plus, delicious recipes using oregano.
Oregano’s taste is zesty and strong and is commonly used in Italian dishes. It is a hardy plant and makes for a good ground cover.
PLANTING
Oregano loves the sun, so ensure that your placement has full, strong sun for strong flavor. Some folks plant later in the season for assured warm weather.
However, for a head start, plant the seeds/cuttings 6 to 10 weeks before the last spring frost. (See local frost dates.)
Oregano can easily be started from seeds, though you can also use cuttings from an established plant.
Plant the seeds/cuttings in well-drained soil anytime after the last spring frost. The soil should be around 70ºF.
For thin plants, plant 8 to 10 inches apart. The plants will grow 1 to 2 feet tall and spread about 18 inches.
Oregano makes a good companion plant for any vegetable in the garden.
CARE
Allow oregano plants to grow to about 4 inches tall and then pinch or trim lightly to encourage a denser and bushier plant.
Regular trimming will not only cause the plant to branch again, but also avoid legginess.
Oregano doesn’t need quite as much water as most herbs. As the amount of watering depends on many variables, just water when the soil feels dry to the touch. Remember that it’s better to water thoroughly and less often.
If you have a container, water until the water comes out of the drainage holes in the bottom of the container.
To ensure the best-quality plants, thin out plants that are 3 or 4 years old in the early spring. Oregano is self-seeding, so the plants will easily grow back.
You can divide the plants in late spring if you want to put one indoors.
PESTS/DISEASES
Root and stem rots
Aphids
Spider mites
PLANT TYPE: Herb
SUN EXPOSURE: Full Sun
SOIL TYPE: Loamy
Oregano is a perennial herb with rose-purple or white flowers and a taste reminiscent of thyme. Here’s how to grow oregano plants in your garden—plus, delicious recipes using oregano.
Oregano’s taste is zesty and strong and is commonly used in Italian dishes. It is a hardy plant and makes for a good ground cover.
PLANTING
Oregano loves the sun, so ensure that your placement has full, strong sun for strong flavor. Some folks plant later in the season for assured warm weather.
However, for a head start, plant the seeds/cuttings 6 to 10 weeks before the last spring frost. (See local frost dates.)
Oregano can easily be started from seeds, though you can also use cuttings from an established plant.
Plant the seeds/cuttings in well-drained soil anytime after the last spring frost. The soil should be around 70ºF.
For thin plants, plant 8 to 10 inches apart. The plants will grow 1 to 2 feet tall and spread about 18 inches.
Oregano makes a good companion plant for any vegetable in the garden.
CARE
Allow oregano plants to grow to about 4 inches tall and then pinch or trim lightly to encourage a denser and bushier plant.
Regular trimming will not only cause the plant to branch again, but also avoid legginess.
Oregano doesn’t need quite as much water as most herbs. As the amount of watering depends on many variables, just water when the soil feels dry to the touch. Remember that it’s better to water thoroughly and less often.
If you have a container, water until the water comes out of the drainage holes in the bottom of the container.
To ensure the best-quality plants, thin out plants that are 3 or 4 years old in the early spring. Oregano is self-seeding, so the plants will easily grow back.
You can divide the plants in late spring if you want to put one indoors.
PESTS/DISEASES
Root and stem rots
Aphids
Spider mites
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0
文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月05日
BOTANICAL NAME: Mentha
PLANT TYPE: Herb
SUN EXPOSURE: Full Sun
SOIL TYPE: Loamy
Mint is a perennial with very fragrant, toothed leaves and tiny purple, pink, or white flowers. It has a fruity, aromatic taste.
There are many varieties of mint—all fragrant, whether shiny or fuzzy, smooth or crinkled, bright green or variegated. However, you can always tell a member of the mint family by its square stem. Rolling it between your fingers, you’ll notice a pungent scent and think of candy, sweet teas, or maybe even mint juleps.
As well as kitchen companions, mints are used as garden accents, ground covers, air fresheners, and herbal medicines. They’re as beautiful as they are functional, and they’re foolproof to grow, thriving in sun and shade all over North America. In fact, mint can be vigorous spreaders, so be careful where you plant it.
PLANTING
Mints are vigorous perennials that thrive in light soil with good drainage.
Ideally, they prefer a moist but well-drained site, something like their native habitat along stream banks.
Most will tolerate some shade, and the variegated types may require some protection from direct sun.
For growing outdoors, plant one or two purchased plants (or one or two cuttings from a friend) about 2 feet apart in moist soil. One or two plants will easily cover the ground. Mint should grow to be 1 or 2 feet tall.
For the best growth in confined areas such as containers, topdress plants with a thin layer of compost or organic fertilizer every few months. Aboveground pots will need winter protection in cold climates.
In the garden, plant mint near cabbage and tomatoes.
CARE
Minimal care is needed for mint. For outdoor plants, use a light mulch. This will help keep the soil moist and keep the leaves clean.
For indoor plants, be sure to water them regularly to keep the soil evenly moist.
At first, mints develop into well-behaved–looking, bushy, upright clumps, but they soon set out to conquer new territory with horizontal runners and underground rhizomes. Unless you block the advance, a pert peppermint plant can turn into a sprawling 4-foot giant in just 1 year. It’s not the stuff of horror movies, however. Mints benefit from picking and pruning. They are shallow-rooted and easy to pull out, so there’s no reason to worry, as long as you provide physical barriers such as walls, walkways, or containers.
PESTS/DISEASES
Powdery mildew
Rust
Leaf spot
Anthracnose
Stem canker
Mice dislike the smell of peppermint. Spread it liberally where you suspect the critters. Mint is also considered a deer-resistant plant.
PLANT TYPE: Herb
SUN EXPOSURE: Full Sun
SOIL TYPE: Loamy
Mint is a perennial with very fragrant, toothed leaves and tiny purple, pink, or white flowers. It has a fruity, aromatic taste.
There are many varieties of mint—all fragrant, whether shiny or fuzzy, smooth or crinkled, bright green or variegated. However, you can always tell a member of the mint family by its square stem. Rolling it between your fingers, you’ll notice a pungent scent and think of candy, sweet teas, or maybe even mint juleps.
As well as kitchen companions, mints are used as garden accents, ground covers, air fresheners, and herbal medicines. They’re as beautiful as they are functional, and they’re foolproof to grow, thriving in sun and shade all over North America. In fact, mint can be vigorous spreaders, so be careful where you plant it.
PLANTING
Mints are vigorous perennials that thrive in light soil with good drainage.
Ideally, they prefer a moist but well-drained site, something like their native habitat along stream banks.
Most will tolerate some shade, and the variegated types may require some protection from direct sun.
For growing outdoors, plant one or two purchased plants (or one or two cuttings from a friend) about 2 feet apart in moist soil. One or two plants will easily cover the ground. Mint should grow to be 1 or 2 feet tall.
For the best growth in confined areas such as containers, topdress plants with a thin layer of compost or organic fertilizer every few months. Aboveground pots will need winter protection in cold climates.
In the garden, plant mint near cabbage and tomatoes.
CARE
Minimal care is needed for mint. For outdoor plants, use a light mulch. This will help keep the soil moist and keep the leaves clean.
For indoor plants, be sure to water them regularly to keep the soil evenly moist.
At first, mints develop into well-behaved–looking, bushy, upright clumps, but they soon set out to conquer new territory with horizontal runners and underground rhizomes. Unless you block the advance, a pert peppermint plant can turn into a sprawling 4-foot giant in just 1 year. It’s not the stuff of horror movies, however. Mints benefit from picking and pruning. They are shallow-rooted and easy to pull out, so there’s no reason to worry, as long as you provide physical barriers such as walls, walkways, or containers.
PESTS/DISEASES
Powdery mildew
Rust
Leaf spot
Anthracnose
Stem canker
Mice dislike the smell of peppermint. Spread it liberally where you suspect the critters. Mint is also considered a deer-resistant plant.
0
0
文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月05日
BOTANICAL NAME:
Allium schoenoprasum
PLANT TYPE: Herb
SUN EXPOSURE: Full Sun
SOIL TYPE: LoamySandy
FLOWER COLOR: Purple
Chives are a perennial member of the onion family that sport beautiful purple flowers. Here’s how to grow chives in your garden!
Chives are cool-season, cold-tolerant perennials that are planted in early spring.
Be mindful when planting this herb, as it will take over your garden if the flowers are left to ripen (the flowers scatter the seeds). However, this plant is easy to dig up and moved if it overwhelms your garden.
PLANTING
Chives prefer full sun.
Soil needs to be moist, fertile, rich, and well-draining. Before planting, incorporate 4 to 6 inches of well-composted organic matter. Apply 2 to 3 tablespoons of all-purpose fertilizer (16-16-8) per square foot of planting area. Work compost and fertilizer into the soil to a depth of 6 to 8 inches. (Read more about soil amendments and preparing soil for planting.)
For a head start, start the seeds indoors 8 to 10 weeks before the last spring frost. (See local frost dates.) Transplants need good growth before being set in the garden.
If you are growing from seed, sow as soon as the soil is workable in the spring. For the best growth, the soil should be around 60º to 70ºF.
Plant seeds ¼ inch deep and final plant spacing should be 4 to 6 inches apart in all directions.
CARE
It is important to give chives consistent watering throughout the growing season for high yields. Moisten the soil thoroughly when watering.
Use mulch to conserve moisture and keep the weeds down.
For good production, sidedress with fertilizer in May and July with 1 teaspoon of 21-0-0 per square foot.
Minimal care is needed for fully grown plants.
After the flowers bloom, be sure to remove them so that the seeds aren’t spread throughout your garden.
Plants grow to be 12 to 24 inches tall and may spread a foot across.
Remember to divide the plants every 3 to 4 years in the spring. Chives are much more productive if divided regularly. Allow divided plants to grow for several weeks before harvesting.
PESTS/DISEASES
Bulb rots (caused by soilborne fungi)
White rot
Mildew
Rust
Smut
Various fungal leaf spots (such as purple blotch and gray mold)
Onion fly
Thrips
Allium schoenoprasum
PLANT TYPE: Herb
SUN EXPOSURE: Full Sun
SOIL TYPE: LoamySandy
FLOWER COLOR: Purple
Chives are a perennial member of the onion family that sport beautiful purple flowers. Here’s how to grow chives in your garden!
Chives are cool-season, cold-tolerant perennials that are planted in early spring.
Be mindful when planting this herb, as it will take over your garden if the flowers are left to ripen (the flowers scatter the seeds). However, this plant is easy to dig up and moved if it overwhelms your garden.
PLANTING
Chives prefer full sun.
Soil needs to be moist, fertile, rich, and well-draining. Before planting, incorporate 4 to 6 inches of well-composted organic matter. Apply 2 to 3 tablespoons of all-purpose fertilizer (16-16-8) per square foot of planting area. Work compost and fertilizer into the soil to a depth of 6 to 8 inches. (Read more about soil amendments and preparing soil for planting.)
For a head start, start the seeds indoors 8 to 10 weeks before the last spring frost. (See local frost dates.) Transplants need good growth before being set in the garden.
If you are growing from seed, sow as soon as the soil is workable in the spring. For the best growth, the soil should be around 60º to 70ºF.
Plant seeds ¼ inch deep and final plant spacing should be 4 to 6 inches apart in all directions.
CARE
It is important to give chives consistent watering throughout the growing season for high yields. Moisten the soil thoroughly when watering.
Use mulch to conserve moisture and keep the weeds down.
For good production, sidedress with fertilizer in May and July with 1 teaspoon of 21-0-0 per square foot.
Minimal care is needed for fully grown plants.
After the flowers bloom, be sure to remove them so that the seeds aren’t spread throughout your garden.
Plants grow to be 12 to 24 inches tall and may spread a foot across.
Remember to divide the plants every 3 to 4 years in the spring. Chives are much more productive if divided regularly. Allow divided plants to grow for several weeks before harvesting.
PESTS/DISEASES
Bulb rots (caused by soilborne fungi)
White rot
Mildew
Rust
Smut
Various fungal leaf spots (such as purple blotch and gray mold)
Onion fly
Thrips
0
1
