文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月09日
Don't expect to find carpets of these lovely orchids; they tend to grow singly or in small groups.
Description
This lovely orchid grows up to 60cm in height, has heavily-ribbed oval leaves, and carries up to 16 white flowers on an upright stem. The flowers do not open fully and so the blunt yellow lip is barely visible.
The flowers are mainly self-pollinated, although pollination by insects has also been recorded. The plants take at least eight years to develop from seed, and flowering can take an additional two to three years after that.
These orchids occur in woodlands (they are more common in Beech woods) where the underlying ground is chalk or limestone, although they are also found in more open positions from time to time.
Distribution
Two of the specimens shown on this page were photographed near Bryanston, in Dorset, and this orchid is only common in South-east England although there are confirmed sites in South-east Wales. Cephalanthera damasonium is in serious decline due to loss of habitat caused by the clearance of woodlands.
The White Helleborine is also found throughout continental Europe and as far east as Asia, where it is widespread but not abundant. We have also photographed this woodland orchid in Slovenia.
Flowering times
Cephalanthera damasonium blooms from early May until the end of June.
Description
This lovely orchid grows up to 60cm in height, has heavily-ribbed oval leaves, and carries up to 16 white flowers on an upright stem. The flowers do not open fully and so the blunt yellow lip is barely visible.
The flowers are mainly self-pollinated, although pollination by insects has also been recorded. The plants take at least eight years to develop from seed, and flowering can take an additional two to three years after that.
These orchids occur in woodlands (they are more common in Beech woods) where the underlying ground is chalk or limestone, although they are also found in more open positions from time to time.
Distribution
Two of the specimens shown on this page were photographed near Bryanston, in Dorset, and this orchid is only common in South-east England although there are confirmed sites in South-east Wales. Cephalanthera damasonium is in serious decline due to loss of habitat caused by the clearance of woodlands.
The White Helleborine is also found throughout continental Europe and as far east as Asia, where it is widespread but not abundant. We have also photographed this woodland orchid in Slovenia.
Flowering times
Cephalanthera damasonium blooms from early May until the end of June.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月09日
This lovely wildflower is rare wherever it occurs. It is one of the most sought-after 'finds' for anybody who is interested in wild orchids.
In America's high mountain regions this orchid waits for the snow to melt and then flowers in moist cool forests where there is plenty of humus beneath the trees. It grows high up in the mountains in the montane and subalpine zones in most northerly states, including west and central Montana, Colorado and California.
Distribution
The worldwide distribution of Calypso bulbosa is circumpolar: apart from America it occurs also in Canada, Scandinavia, Finland, Russia, Mongolia and Japan.
Habitat and Blooming Times
Despite being widespread its continued existence is perilous. The plants live for a maximum of five years and they are easily destroyed by disturbance to their habitat. They cannot be transferred because they depend on a relationship with fungi in the soil in order to germinate and grow. These unique conditions can never be recreated in gardens.
General destruction of the forests by logging (particularly in California) where Calypso bulbosa lives is only a small part of the problems which face this plant. It also suffers human predation by orchid hunters, who dig up the plants in order to try and cultivate them. In common with many other rare and beautiful wild orchids this endeavour nearly always fails, and so we lose many more plants than we gain.
Calypso Bulbosa flowers at lower elevations from June, but at higher altitudes it can still be found blooming well into July.
In America's high mountain regions this orchid waits for the snow to melt and then flowers in moist cool forests where there is plenty of humus beneath the trees. It grows high up in the mountains in the montane and subalpine zones in most northerly states, including west and central Montana, Colorado and California.
Distribution
The worldwide distribution of Calypso bulbosa is circumpolar: apart from America it occurs also in Canada, Scandinavia, Finland, Russia, Mongolia and Japan.
Habitat and Blooming Times
Despite being widespread its continued existence is perilous. The plants live for a maximum of five years and they are easily destroyed by disturbance to their habitat. They cannot be transferred because they depend on a relationship with fungi in the soil in order to germinate and grow. These unique conditions can never be recreated in gardens.
General destruction of the forests by logging (particularly in California) where Calypso bulbosa lives is only a small part of the problems which face this plant. It also suffers human predation by orchid hunters, who dig up the plants in order to try and cultivate them. In common with many other rare and beautiful wild orchids this endeavour nearly always fails, and so we lose many more plants than we gain.
Calypso Bulbosa flowers at lower elevations from June, but at higher altitudes it can still be found blooming well into July.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月09日
Marsh-marigold Caltha palustris is one of those wonderful wildflowers of early spring that offer hope of warmer weather to come after a long cold winter.
Identification
Between 2 and 5cm in diameter, most of the bright yellow flowers of Caltha palustris have five petal-like sepals (although sometimes you may see flowers with as few as four petals and very occasionally there can be up to nine) with numerous yellow stamens.
The waxy green kidney-shaped or roundish leaves are 5 to 20cm across and have bluntly-serrated margins. Another very helpful identifying feature is that the stems of Marsh-marigolds are hollow.
Distribution
Common and widespread throughout Britain and Ireland, Marsh-marigolds are found throughout mainland Europe, northern Asia and the cooler northern parts of North America.
Habitat
Found mainly in wet (carr) woodlands, river and stream margins, bogs, marshes, and the banks of lakes and ponds, the aptly named Marsh-marigold, alsoknown by many other local names including Kingcup and May Blobs, is a most conspicuous wildflower. These large butter-yellow flowers also light up the edges of shady woodland streams and damp ditches beside country lanes.
Blooming Times
In sheltered locations the first flowers of Caltha palustris can appear in late February well before the spring fireworks display of other wildflowers, but April and May are when you will see these flowers at their best in Britain. A few stragglers sometimes continue to bloom well into June or early July, but by then the plants have collapsed and lost their youthfulness.
Uses
Roots, stems, leaves, flowers and seeds of this plant are all poisonous, and if handled they have been known to cause irritation of the skin and even dermatitis. Nevertheless, their value in the margins of a garden pond or any other shaded boggy hollow is not restricted to their aesthetic beauty: in common with other members of the Buttercup family, Marsh-marigolds are pollinated by the many small insects of springtime.
Identification
Between 2 and 5cm in diameter, most of the bright yellow flowers of Caltha palustris have five petal-like sepals (although sometimes you may see flowers with as few as four petals and very occasionally there can be up to nine) with numerous yellow stamens.
The waxy green kidney-shaped or roundish leaves are 5 to 20cm across and have bluntly-serrated margins. Another very helpful identifying feature is that the stems of Marsh-marigolds are hollow.
Distribution
Common and widespread throughout Britain and Ireland, Marsh-marigolds are found throughout mainland Europe, northern Asia and the cooler northern parts of North America.
Habitat
Found mainly in wet (carr) woodlands, river and stream margins, bogs, marshes, and the banks of lakes and ponds, the aptly named Marsh-marigold, alsoknown by many other local names including Kingcup and May Blobs, is a most conspicuous wildflower. These large butter-yellow flowers also light up the edges of shady woodland streams and damp ditches beside country lanes.
Blooming Times
In sheltered locations the first flowers of Caltha palustris can appear in late February well before the spring fireworks display of other wildflowers, but April and May are when you will see these flowers at their best in Britain. A few stragglers sometimes continue to bloom well into June or early July, but by then the plants have collapsed and lost their youthfulness.
Uses
Roots, stems, leaves, flowers and seeds of this plant are all poisonous, and if handled they have been known to cause irritation of the skin and even dermatitis. Nevertheless, their value in the margins of a garden pond or any other shaded boggy hollow is not restricted to their aesthetic beauty: in common with other members of the Buttercup family, Marsh-marigolds are pollinated by the many small insects of springtime.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月09日
Identification
Up to 60cm tall, this bristly branching annual herb has pointed oval leaves with toothed wavy margins. The bright blue flowers of Borage, each with five pointed recurved petals and an extended column of purple-black-tipped anthers, range from 2 to 12.5m across and grow in loose clusters (cymes).
Distribution
This gorgeous plant, which is established on a few roadsides and in waste ground in southern Britain, is cultivated as a culinary herb in summertime. Borage is common throughout the Mediterranean region of southern Europe, including the Algarve in Portugal where, as well as reproducing from seed annually, it is also capable of over-wintering.
Habitat
Borago officinalis is a wildflower of fallow cultivated land, disturbed roadsides and waste ground. It thrives in sunny locations and copes surprisingly well during dry periods.
Blooming Times
Borage blooms from March to June within its native Mediterranean range but throughout the summer months in Britain and Ireland.
Uses
Not surprisingly, Borage has been grown mainly as an ornamental plant, although its leaves are used to flavour drinks - notably Pimms. These days the plant is also grown in cultivation for its oil-rich seeds.
Up to 60cm tall, this bristly branching annual herb has pointed oval leaves with toothed wavy margins. The bright blue flowers of Borage, each with five pointed recurved petals and an extended column of purple-black-tipped anthers, range from 2 to 12.5m across and grow in loose clusters (cymes).
Distribution
This gorgeous plant, which is established on a few roadsides and in waste ground in southern Britain, is cultivated as a culinary herb in summertime. Borage is common throughout the Mediterranean region of southern Europe, including the Algarve in Portugal where, as well as reproducing from seed annually, it is also capable of over-wintering.
Habitat
Borago officinalis is a wildflower of fallow cultivated land, disturbed roadsides and waste ground. It thrives in sunny locations and copes surprisingly well during dry periods.
Blooming Times
Borage blooms from March to June within its native Mediterranean range but throughout the summer months in Britain and Ireland.
Uses
Not surprisingly, Borage has been grown mainly as an ornamental plant, although its leaves are used to flavour drinks - notably Pimms. These days the plant is also grown in cultivation for its oil-rich seeds.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月08日
This pretty wildflower is a close relative of Thrift Armeria maritima which produces dense pink mats of flowers in early spring in Britain and Ireland. From a distance the flowers, on tall upright stems, could be mistaken for members of the Allium genus (onions, garlic and their relatives).
Identification
Armeria pungens grows to 70cm, and its inflorescences are hemispherical bunches of five-petalled flowers on long stalks.
The grass-like pointed leaves are hairless and typically 10cm long and 2.5mm wide, and they grow in dense tufts often out of bare sand, with the woody flower stalks emerging to tower above the leaf tufts and sway in the breeze - a challenge for photographers on all but the calmest of days.
Distribution
Sea Rose can be found along the coasts of Portugal and southern Spain as well as on some Mediterranean islands including Corsica and Sardinia.
Habitat
Armeria pungens grows in stable sand dunes, on coastal meadows and alongside footpaths on the clifftops.
Blooming Times
Sea Rose blooms from April until July.
Identification
Armeria pungens grows to 70cm, and its inflorescences are hemispherical bunches of five-petalled flowers on long stalks.
The grass-like pointed leaves are hairless and typically 10cm long and 2.5mm wide, and they grow in dense tufts often out of bare sand, with the woody flower stalks emerging to tower above the leaf tufts and sway in the breeze - a challenge for photographers on all but the calmest of days.
Distribution
Sea Rose can be found along the coasts of Portugal and southern Spain as well as on some Mediterranean islands including Corsica and Sardinia.
Habitat
Armeria pungens grows in stable sand dunes, on coastal meadows and alongside footpaths on the clifftops.
Blooming Times
Sea Rose blooms from April until July.
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文章
Miss Chen
2017年08月08日
Flaunting 1-foot night-blooming flowers, dragon fruit plants (Hylocereus and Selenicereus spp.) more closely resemble the princess in a fairy tale than the monster. The "dragon" in their name actually refers to the dark pink, yellow, or green scales which protect their fruits. With white, pink, red or magenta pulp dotted with black seeds, those fruits ripen one to two months after the plants bloom. Climbing cacti with aerial roots, dragon fruits can live outdoors in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 9 to 12 and be cultivated as houseplants elsewhere.
Cut and Dried
Dragon fruit plants are usually started from cuttings rather than seeds, since cuttings flower more quickly. Select three or four sections of stem that are 6 to 15 inches long. When severing the sections from the mother plant, cut at a slight slant. Allow the cuttings to lie, uncovered, in a cool, dark place for a week until their cut edges have hardened. Then insert the bases of the cuttings about 2 inches deep into a 1-gallon pot filled with slightly damp cactus soil, packing the soil tightly around them until they stand upright. Keep the pot in a bright spot out of direct sun, misting the cuttings every other day, until new growth indicates that they have rooted. Then move the cuttings into partial sun, shifting them gradually into full sun about four months after their rooting.
Stakeout
Wait until the cuttings are at least four months old before planting them outdoors. Choose a site in full sun near a sturdy support. Commercial growers frequently use posts that are 4 to 6 inches in diameter and about 5 feet high after they have been set in the ground. Plant three or four rooted cuttings around the stake, replacing about one-third of the soil with composted manure and another third with sand. Tie the cuttings to the stake with garden twine, water them well and mulch them with several inches of chopped bark, keeping the mulch at least 8 inches away from their stems. Continue to water the plant as necessary, making sure it gets at least 1/2 to 1 inch of water per week. Rake the mulch back to strew about 4 pounds of composted manure and 1/4 pound of 6-6-6 granular organic fertilizer around the stake in June. Repeat the 1/4-pound fertilizer application once every two months until October.
Go to Pot
To grow a dragon fruit plant indoors, fill a 16- to 18-inch-diameter pot with cactus potting soil, and embed a heavy stake in its center. After planting three or four rooted cuttings around that stake, tie them to it and and water them thoroughly. Place the pot near a sunny window and water it again only when the surface of its soil feels dry to the touch. Fertilize an indoor plant monthly with 10-10-5 liquid plant food in April and May, mixing 1 tablespoon of the plant food per gallon of water. Afterwards, feed it monthly with 0-10-10 liquid plant food from June until October, using the same amount. Don't fertilize the plant at all from November through March.
Train Your Dragon
As the cuttings grow, either indoors or outdoors, prune off all their side-shoots until their stems reach the top of the stake. Then snip off the tips of those stems so that they will branch out, with those branches dangling down from the stake's crown like a head of hair. After a mature plant has finished flowering in the fall, prune out weak or dead growth and the branches that bloomed that year, allowing new ones to dangle down to replace them.
Cut and Dried
Dragon fruit plants are usually started from cuttings rather than seeds, since cuttings flower more quickly. Select three or four sections of stem that are 6 to 15 inches long. When severing the sections from the mother plant, cut at a slight slant. Allow the cuttings to lie, uncovered, in a cool, dark place for a week until their cut edges have hardened. Then insert the bases of the cuttings about 2 inches deep into a 1-gallon pot filled with slightly damp cactus soil, packing the soil tightly around them until they stand upright. Keep the pot in a bright spot out of direct sun, misting the cuttings every other day, until new growth indicates that they have rooted. Then move the cuttings into partial sun, shifting them gradually into full sun about four months after their rooting.
Stakeout
Wait until the cuttings are at least four months old before planting them outdoors. Choose a site in full sun near a sturdy support. Commercial growers frequently use posts that are 4 to 6 inches in diameter and about 5 feet high after they have been set in the ground. Plant three or four rooted cuttings around the stake, replacing about one-third of the soil with composted manure and another third with sand. Tie the cuttings to the stake with garden twine, water them well and mulch them with several inches of chopped bark, keeping the mulch at least 8 inches away from their stems. Continue to water the plant as necessary, making sure it gets at least 1/2 to 1 inch of water per week. Rake the mulch back to strew about 4 pounds of composted manure and 1/4 pound of 6-6-6 granular organic fertilizer around the stake in June. Repeat the 1/4-pound fertilizer application once every two months until October.
Go to Pot
To grow a dragon fruit plant indoors, fill a 16- to 18-inch-diameter pot with cactus potting soil, and embed a heavy stake in its center. After planting three or four rooted cuttings around that stake, tie them to it and and water them thoroughly. Place the pot near a sunny window and water it again only when the surface of its soil feels dry to the touch. Fertilize an indoor plant monthly with 10-10-5 liquid plant food in April and May, mixing 1 tablespoon of the plant food per gallon of water. Afterwards, feed it monthly with 0-10-10 liquid plant food from June until October, using the same amount. Don't fertilize the plant at all from November through March.
Train Your Dragon
As the cuttings grow, either indoors or outdoors, prune off all their side-shoots until their stems reach the top of the stake. Then snip off the tips of those stems so that they will branch out, with those branches dangling down from the stake's crown like a head of hair. After a mature plant has finished flowering in the fall, prune out weak or dead growth and the branches that bloomed that year, allowing new ones to dangle down to replace them.
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文章
Miss Chen
2017年08月08日
The spineless tropical cactus night-blooming cereus (Epiphyllum oxypetalum) produces spiderlike fragrant flowers that open in the evening. It grows in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 10 through 11 and it doesn't tolerate any frost, but it grows well as a houseplant or as a potted outdoor plant that's overwintered indoors in colder climates. Night-blooming cereus requires only basic care and it is a relatively low-maintenance plant, whether grown outdoors or inside.
Step 1
Set potted night-blooming cereus plants in an area that receives all-day, filtered sunlight, bright but indirect sunlight, or morning sun and afternoon shade. Place the plants outdoors if temperatures are above 50 degrees Fahrenheit at night. In warm, frost-free climates, grow the cactus in a well-drained, slightly sandy garden bed that receives some shade.
Step 2
Water the night-blooming cereus when the soil surface looks dry, but before the soil dries out completely. Sprinkle the water on the soil, keeping the cactus leaves dry, until excess water drains from the bottom of the pot or until the top 6 inches of soil feel moist in a garden bed. Water regularly from spring through early fall. Garden-grown and fully mature potted plants don't require winter watering. Water young pot-grown plants only when the soil dries in completely in winter. Properly watered cactus plants rarely suffer from stem rot or fungal problems.
Step 3
Mix 1/4 teaspoon of a balanced, water-soluble fertilizer, such as a 15-15-15 blend, or of a bloom-inducing fertilizer, such as a 7-9-5 blend, with 1 gallon of water. Water the night-blooming cereus with the fertilizer solution once weekly during the active spring and summer growing season. Check the label because rates vary among brands and use one-fourth of the recommended concentration.
Step 4
Cut back any overgrown or damaged leaf stems after the cactus finishes flowering. Wipe a sharp knife with a rag soaked in rubbing alcohol to disinfect it before making a cut. Cut through leaf stems cleanly, cutting them back to the desired height but removing no more than one-third of their length.
Step 5
Bring potted plants indoors before the temperature drops below 40 F in fall or early winter. Temperatures below 35 F can kill the plant. Place the pot near a sunny window and water sparingly when the the soil dries completely. Move the pot back outdoors in spring after frost danger has passed.
Step 6
Inspect the leaves for white cottony masses that can indicate a mealybug infestation, the primary pest of night-blooming cereus. Remove the mealybugs by hand or dip a cotton swab in rubbing alcohol and dab it onto the bugs to kill them. Monitor the plant daily and remove or kill any new mealybugs until the pests are gone.
Step 1
Set potted night-blooming cereus plants in an area that receives all-day, filtered sunlight, bright but indirect sunlight, or morning sun and afternoon shade. Place the plants outdoors if temperatures are above 50 degrees Fahrenheit at night. In warm, frost-free climates, grow the cactus in a well-drained, slightly sandy garden bed that receives some shade.
Step 2
Water the night-blooming cereus when the soil surface looks dry, but before the soil dries out completely. Sprinkle the water on the soil, keeping the cactus leaves dry, until excess water drains from the bottom of the pot or until the top 6 inches of soil feel moist in a garden bed. Water regularly from spring through early fall. Garden-grown and fully mature potted plants don't require winter watering. Water young pot-grown plants only when the soil dries in completely in winter. Properly watered cactus plants rarely suffer from stem rot or fungal problems.
Step 3
Mix 1/4 teaspoon of a balanced, water-soluble fertilizer, such as a 15-15-15 blend, or of a bloom-inducing fertilizer, such as a 7-9-5 blend, with 1 gallon of water. Water the night-blooming cereus with the fertilizer solution once weekly during the active spring and summer growing season. Check the label because rates vary among brands and use one-fourth of the recommended concentration.
Step 4
Cut back any overgrown or damaged leaf stems after the cactus finishes flowering. Wipe a sharp knife with a rag soaked in rubbing alcohol to disinfect it before making a cut. Cut through leaf stems cleanly, cutting them back to the desired height but removing no more than one-third of their length.
Step 5
Bring potted plants indoors before the temperature drops below 40 F in fall or early winter. Temperatures below 35 F can kill the plant. Place the pot near a sunny window and water sparingly when the the soil dries completely. Move the pot back outdoors in spring after frost danger has passed.
Step 6
Inspect the leaves for white cottony masses that can indicate a mealybug infestation, the primary pest of night-blooming cereus. Remove the mealybugs by hand or dip a cotton swab in rubbing alcohol and dab it onto the bugs to kill them. Monitor the plant daily and remove or kill any new mealybugs until the pests are gone.
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文章
Miss Chen
2017年08月08日
A straw flower cactus is a cactus that has a straw flower (or strawflower) attached to it, either with hot glue or a pin. The flower is the bract of Xerochrysum bracteatum and is named for its papery, straw-like texture. The flowers are used to "dress up" the cactus, usually to enhance sales. Many home gardeners are fooled into believing that the attached flowers are the actual flowers of the cactus. Straw flowers have the unusual ability to open and close, even though dead, in response to the level of humidity in the air. Although this action may seem lifelike, the flowers require no extra care beyond what you give the cactus.
Step 1
Place your cactus near a window that gets bright but indirect light. Do not place it directly in the hot sun. Most potted cacti were either raised indoors or in a greenhouse and can sunburn, according to information published by Texas A&M University. In addition, the straw flowers fade in the sun. If you want to set your cactus outside, place it in a location that receives partial shade and gradually move it into a sunnier location.
Step 2
Feed your cactus soon after you bring it home. Potted plants need a dose of nutrients added to the soil now and then. Once every six months use a water-soluble, slow-release fertilizer formulated for cacti and succulents. Alternatively, give the cactus a low dose of 5-10-5 fertilizer once in the spring, summer and again in the fall.
Step 3
Water your cactus when the soil dries out. Cacti are drought-tolerant plants and can be left without water for several weeks. In general, water once a month, or when a stick inserted to the bottom of the pot is still dry when pulled out.
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文章
Miss Chen
2017年08月08日
Most Florida cactus plants produce flat stems and no leaves. However, they have characteristics that distinguish them from one another. The prickly pear cactus, for instance, produces flowers while a Christmas cactus might drop berries. Others, like the triangle cactus, only bloom at night. Florida's warm climate is the home to different species of cactus, some of which you can find in nurseries for home growth.
Christmas cactus.
The Christmas cactus is a rain forest native that needs more moisture and shade than desert cacti. This plant doesn't have leaves, but it produces flowers that bloom at the tip of flat stems that look like foliage. It grows in soil that's rich and moist. It does well as a container plant.
Prickly pear cactus.
Prickly pear is an edible cactus with nine species native to Florida, devil's tongue being one. This cactus grows 18 inches tall with a wide spread. Its flat stems look like leaves and produce 3 inch long spines, as well as smaller ones called "glochids." The bright yellow prickly pear flowers bloom one at a time for several weeks, each lasting only one day.
Close up of triangle cactus.
Triangle cactus grows in Florida, producing a large night-blooming flower that attracts hummingbird moths. Spines sprout from the cactus' leaf-like stems. The plant also produces an edible sweet red fruit. Triangle cactus tolerates freezing temperatures down to 20 degrees F.
Night blooming Cereus flower.
This climbing cactus has no spines and produces large fragrant flowers that bloom for a night in the summer. According to the Cornell University Cooperative Extension Service, night-blooming cereus needs little care to thrive and will spread like a vine up to 40 feet long. To control its propagation, it's best to grow it in a container.
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文章
Miss Chen
2017年08月08日
Many cactus plants have a sculptural quality to them, little hinting at the amazing show they put on when they bloom. Flowers are usually large for the size of the plant, most staying open just one day. The petals have a shimmering, silky sheen. Colors range from dazzling white to everything but true blue and black, sometimes with several colors in one flower. Most cactus bloom in the spring, opening during the day. A number are pollinated by bats or moths and open at night.
Spring Blooms
Springtime sees most cactus blooming, because temperatures aren't too hot yet, the plants are actively growing after resting all winter and spring rains give them enough water for their extravagant floral display. Even if rains are sparse, cactus draw upon their stored water to flower, but not as abundantly. In Arizona's Sonoran Desert, cactus begin to bloom in March, with April the month of highest flowering. In May prickly pears (Opuntia spp.) flower; they're hardy in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 3b through 11.
Summer Shows
Cactus that flower in summer's heat are generally substantial ones with a significant amount of stored water in their bodies. This helps them bloom reliably when daytime temperatures climb. The saguaro (Carnegiea gigantea), which reaches 30 to 50 feet tall, flowers in mid-May to mid-June, when temperatures in its native Sonoran Desert regularly reach over 100 degrees Fahrenheit. Many waxy-petaled flowers encircle branch ends and open at night for visits by bats. Saguaros, hardy in USDA zones 9a to 10b, begin to flower when they're 40 to 50 years old. Heavy-bodied barrel cacti (Ferocactus spp.) varieties bloom from spring into summer with yellow, orange or bright red flowers, depending on the species. Fishhook barrel cactus (Ferocactus wislizeni) grows to 5 feet tall in USDA zones 8 through 11.
Night Bloomers
Cactus flowers that open at night help the plant conserve water; in warm months, it's coolest at night. Peruvian apple cactus (Cereus repandus) typifies a moth-pollinated flower, with its 5-inch diameter, trumpet shape and sweet fragrance. It blooms most abundantly in spring, with fall rebloom possible. The columnar blue-green cactus reaches 20 feet tall and branches from the base. The cactus needs frost protection in USDA zone 9, and is hardy in zones 10 and 11. Night blooming cereus (Hylocereus undatus) displays another large moth-pollinated white flower. It blooms in spring and summer on flattened stems that resemble long, scalloped leaves. This cactus is cultivated for its oval, red fruits, called dragonfruit, and is hardy in USDA zones 10 and 11.
Christmas Cactus
This familiar houseplant announces its season of bloom through its common name. With its flattened, leaf-like stem, Christmas cactus (Schlumbergera truncata) grows as an epiphyte in tropical forests of southeastern Brazil. Many hybrids and cultivars now exist, with red, white, pink, purple, peach and salmon-colored blooms that usually occur in winter. The plant responds to long nights with over 13 hours of darkness each night and cool night temperatures, prompting it to bloom right around Christmastime when it's grown as a temperate-climate houseplant. Hardy to USDA zones 10 through 12, Christmas cactus flowers best when it is slightly pot-bound. It is also called Thanksgiving cactus or Easter cactus, because it can be manipulated to bloom at those seasons of the year.
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文章
Miss Chen
2017年08月08日
Golden Sedum (Sedum adolphi) is a low-growing succulent plant with pointed dark green leaves. The leaves develop orange or reddish tips when exposed to bright sunlight. Sedum adophi produces white, star-shaped flowers in spring. It can survive a few hours in temperatures as low is 29 degrees Fahrenheit, but is not considered winter hardy except in frost-free locations, such as United States Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zone 10 and warmer. Sedum adolphi is most often grown as a houseplant or an attractive outdoor container plant where it can be protected during the winter.
Step 1
Purchase a well-draining container for planting Sedum adolphi. The container should not be any bigger than 2 inches more in diameter than the root section of the plant. A larger container will contain more potting soil than is needed for the plant to grow. Unused potting soil collects moisture and the organic material in the potting soil will create fungal problems that can spread to the plant.
Step 2
Fill the bottom of the container with 1 inch of fine gravel. The gravel helps the container drain so it does not hold water. A Sedum adophi plant cannot sit in waterlogged soil or the plant will rot.
Step 3
Add potting soil until the container is half full. Carefully take the sedum from the previous container and plant in the new container. Add more potting soil around the Sedum adolphi until it is planted at the same depth it was planted in the previous container and the soil surface is 1 inch below the top of the container. Add water over the soil to settle the potting soil. Add more potting soil as needed. Spread a 1/2-inch layer of gravel over the potting soil. Leave a 1/2-inch space between the gravel and the top of the container so soil and gravel will not wash from the container during watering.
Step 4
Water the Sedum adolphi when the soil in the container is dry. Test the soil for dryness by pushing your finger through the gravel mulch into the top inch of soil. Water heavily until water runs from the bottom of the container.
Step 5
Fertilize once a month with a one-fourth strength solution of water soluble fertilizer appropriate for container plants. Only fertilize during the spring and summer months when the plant is actively growing.
Step 6
Place the container in which the Sedum adolphi is planted in a brightly lit location in the house. Outdoors, place the Sedum adolphi where it is protected from the hottest afternoon sun. Direct sun in the first part of the day followed by shade or dappled sun is best.
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文章
Miss Chen
2017年08月08日
The starfish cactus is also called carrion flower due to the strong unpleasant odor of its fleshlike flowers. The plant is a succulent from South Africa with starfish-shaped flowers and long, slender, spiked branches. The flower attracts flies not only with its potent smell but also with the soft white fur that covers the flower and resembles mold covering rotting flesh. There are about 100 species in the plant's family, Asclepiadaceae, which includes several other fly-attracting blooms.
The Cactus
Several varieties of the starfish cactus exist. They all have the green branching arms that are tinged red in high-sun situations. The arms are barbed with thick white spines. The stems have four angles arrayed up the length and are an inch thick on average. The plant itself reaches 9 inches tall and has a wider spreading habit. Some of the varieties of cactus are considered rare in South Africa, a condition caused by loss of habitat.
Carrion Flowers
The flowers of the starfish plant may extend 10 inches across. The flowers are five-pointed and flesh-colored, although some have a grayish cast and others have a rosy glow. The larger species bear flowers at the base of the plant and smaller blooming species may have flowers scattered over the cactus. Each flower only lasts a few days but may die out and become replaced by another bloom. The petals have a grainy texture and pores that resemble skin.
Bloom Time
The blooming time of starfish cacti depends on where they are being raised, the amount of sun and water they receive, the fertility of the soil and the variety. On average, you can expect a baby plant to bloom in two years with just one or two flowers. When it is mature, the plant will bloom successively in July to September in North America. They flower in November through March in South Africa where they are native. Blooms are rare and rely upon prime growing conditions.
Pollination and Fruit
The stench is the attracting part of the flower, but its resemblance to flesh actually confuses flies into laying their eggs on the interior. The interior structure of the flower is webbed, which traps the legs of the flies. As they struggle, a pollen packet is attached to the insect's leg and they move on to the next flower. After the flower has finished, it sheds the petals and the ovary swells. Eventually, it bears a number of slightly hairy seeds. Seed is easy to start, but the plant will not bear flowers for many years.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月08日
Powdery mildew is a common problem in areas that have high humidity. It can affect almost any type of plant, appearing on leaves, flowers, fruits and vegetables. A white or gray powder coats the surface of the plant. If left untreated, it can turn more severe, causing leaves to turn yellow or brown. Many people look to a homemade cure for powdery mildew before turning to fungicides. However, finding a powdery mildew homemade preventer is preferable.
Prevention of Powdery Mildew
The best way to take care of powdery mildew is by prevention. Be sure to start with healthy plants. One powdery mildew homemade preventer is to simply prune back any dead plant material during the normal pruning time. Do not plant things too close together, to allow ample air circulation around the plants. It is important to not plant in damp shady areas, as that is a prime location for powdery mildew. Another powdery mildew homemade preventer is to avoid using the sprinklers in the evening, so the water doesn’t stand on the leaves too long. The water itself doesn’t cause more mildew, but it allows it to be transported to the other leaves on the plant easier.
Organic Removal of Powdery Mildew
When prevention fails, it is a good idea to try organic removal of powdery mildew first. If you have a case of powdery mildew, be sure not to compost the infected plant parts. There are a few options to try when trying a homemade cure for powdery mildew. One powdery mildew organic remedy is to use dilute solutions of hydrogen peroxide (9 parts water to 1 part hydrogen peroxide). Spray it on the plants thoroughly about once a week. Organic removal of powdery mildew is always preferable to using harsh chemicals on your plants.
There are even some plants, such as the lilac, that can have the powdery mildew on it and it doesn’t hurt the plant that much. So using a homemade cure for powdery mildew on the hardier plants isn’t necessary. Another thing to remember is that if one type of plant gets it, that particular strain of powdery mildew won’t transfer to the other types of plants. For example, it won’t go from the roses to the lilacs, just to the other roses. The best powdery mildew homemade preventer is maintain the proper moisture level, without raising the humidity around the plants too high. This, along with careful annual pruning, will go a long way toward keeping your plants healthy and beautiful.
Prevention of Powdery Mildew
The best way to take care of powdery mildew is by prevention. Be sure to start with healthy plants. One powdery mildew homemade preventer is to simply prune back any dead plant material during the normal pruning time. Do not plant things too close together, to allow ample air circulation around the plants. It is important to not plant in damp shady areas, as that is a prime location for powdery mildew. Another powdery mildew homemade preventer is to avoid using the sprinklers in the evening, so the water doesn’t stand on the leaves too long. The water itself doesn’t cause more mildew, but it allows it to be transported to the other leaves on the plant easier.
Organic Removal of Powdery Mildew
When prevention fails, it is a good idea to try organic removal of powdery mildew first. If you have a case of powdery mildew, be sure not to compost the infected plant parts. There are a few options to try when trying a homemade cure for powdery mildew. One powdery mildew organic remedy is to use dilute solutions of hydrogen peroxide (9 parts water to 1 part hydrogen peroxide). Spray it on the plants thoroughly about once a week. Organic removal of powdery mildew is always preferable to using harsh chemicals on your plants.
There are even some plants, such as the lilac, that can have the powdery mildew on it and it doesn’t hurt the plant that much. So using a homemade cure for powdery mildew on the hardier plants isn’t necessary. Another thing to remember is that if one type of plant gets it, that particular strain of powdery mildew won’t transfer to the other types of plants. For example, it won’t go from the roses to the lilacs, just to the other roses. The best powdery mildew homemade preventer is maintain the proper moisture level, without raising the humidity around the plants too high. This, along with careful annual pruning, will go a long way toward keeping your plants healthy and beautiful.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月08日
Aster yellows can affect a myriad of plants and is often quite detrimental to them as well. Keep reading to learn more about this problem and how to control aster yellows on flowers and other plants in the garden. What is Aster Yellows? Aster yellows on flowers isn’t really caused by a virus at all. It is caused by a cross between a bacterium and virus called a phytoplasma, and for such a tiny organism; it can cause a great deal of trouble. Flower hosts of aster yellows are too numerous to list, as it affects more than two hundred species in over 40 plant families. Aster yellows virus is a disease carried from an infected plant to a healthy one by a creature known to entomologists as Macrosteles fascifrons and to gardeners as aster leafhopper. These, too, are tiny little creatures that gardeners often describe as gnats.
They are only 4 mm. long and their semi-transparent wings are brown or greenish. Easily disturbed, these carriers of aster yellows virus often go unnoticed until it is too late. Like all Homopterean insects, aster leafhoppers have sucking mouthparts called stylets, which are used to suck the juices from the tissues of plants. As they feed, the leafhoppers leave some of their saliva behind. If the insect has fed on a plant host of aster yellows, the phytoplasma from one plant will be deposited in another and so on and so on. Most aster leafhoppers originate in the warm temperatures of the south. They then begin feeding in the area where they were hatched and steadily migrate northward spreading the aster yellows virus just as new seedlings emerge or are planted in their path. Some of these migrant leafhoppers will lay more eggs as they travel and prefer to do so in grain-producing crops such as wheat. Gardeners who live in such areas are, therefore, more likely to see the aster yellows virus on flowers than those who live beyond those areas. These native leafhoppers are more likely to infect older, more established plants where symptoms will be less obvious. Hosts of Aster Yellows While named for the members of the family Asteraceae in which it was first discovered, everything from garden vegetables as diverse as broccoli, carrots and potatoes to flowering plants such as phlox, gladioli and coneflowers can fall victim to this insidious disease. Diagnosing the problem of aster yellows virus can be difficult as well. Its symptoms vary from species to species and it is often mistaken for other diseases or herbicide damage. Infected foliage can be discolored and twisted. The normal green may be replaced with yellow or red.
Hosts of aster yellows may first show the unsightly ‘witches broom‘ of terminal growth. Tall plants may appear bushy and stunted. Leaf veins often turn yellow or white before the entire leaf becomes chlorotic or lacking the chlorophyll green the plant needs to survive. This is the opposite of nutrient deficiency where the veins remain green. Carrots with red leaves and bitter tap roots dotted with white fuzz are indicative of aster yellows. On flowers, the disease may cause twisted heads that remain green or as with marigolds, blossom in a muddy orange mess. Aster Yellows on Flowers – Controlling Aster Yellows Disease Controlling aster yellows is difficult. There is no treatment currently available for curing the disease and plant removal to prevent more spread is the only course of action. Destroying the insect vector is nearly impossible, but certain insecticides such as carbaryl, diazinon and permethrin may help. Read the label before applying any insecticide to your garden. Controlling aster yellows organically involves having a healthy number of beneficial insects in your garden. Neem oil is effective, but may limit beneficial insect numbers. Insecticidal soaps are not considered harmful to bees, but will reduce the number of beneficial insects.
If you live in an area where the disease is common, the best method of controlling aster yellows on flowers and vegetables may be to plant flowers that are immune to the disease, such as geraniums and impatiens. Your local extension service may be able to help you choose plants that are readily available in your area.
They are only 4 mm. long and their semi-transparent wings are brown or greenish. Easily disturbed, these carriers of aster yellows virus often go unnoticed until it is too late. Like all Homopterean insects, aster leafhoppers have sucking mouthparts called stylets, which are used to suck the juices from the tissues of plants. As they feed, the leafhoppers leave some of their saliva behind. If the insect has fed on a plant host of aster yellows, the phytoplasma from one plant will be deposited in another and so on and so on. Most aster leafhoppers originate in the warm temperatures of the south. They then begin feeding in the area where they were hatched and steadily migrate northward spreading the aster yellows virus just as new seedlings emerge or are planted in their path. Some of these migrant leafhoppers will lay more eggs as they travel and prefer to do so in grain-producing crops such as wheat. Gardeners who live in such areas are, therefore, more likely to see the aster yellows virus on flowers than those who live beyond those areas. These native leafhoppers are more likely to infect older, more established plants where symptoms will be less obvious. Hosts of Aster Yellows While named for the members of the family Asteraceae in which it was first discovered, everything from garden vegetables as diverse as broccoli, carrots and potatoes to flowering plants such as phlox, gladioli and coneflowers can fall victim to this insidious disease. Diagnosing the problem of aster yellows virus can be difficult as well. Its symptoms vary from species to species and it is often mistaken for other diseases or herbicide damage. Infected foliage can be discolored and twisted. The normal green may be replaced with yellow or red.
Hosts of aster yellows may first show the unsightly ‘witches broom‘ of terminal growth. Tall plants may appear bushy and stunted. Leaf veins often turn yellow or white before the entire leaf becomes chlorotic or lacking the chlorophyll green the plant needs to survive. This is the opposite of nutrient deficiency where the veins remain green. Carrots with red leaves and bitter tap roots dotted with white fuzz are indicative of aster yellows. On flowers, the disease may cause twisted heads that remain green or as with marigolds, blossom in a muddy orange mess. Aster Yellows on Flowers – Controlling Aster Yellows Disease Controlling aster yellows is difficult. There is no treatment currently available for curing the disease and plant removal to prevent more spread is the only course of action. Destroying the insect vector is nearly impossible, but certain insecticides such as carbaryl, diazinon and permethrin may help. Read the label before applying any insecticide to your garden. Controlling aster yellows organically involves having a healthy number of beneficial insects in your garden. Neem oil is effective, but may limit beneficial insect numbers. Insecticidal soaps are not considered harmful to bees, but will reduce the number of beneficial insects.
If you live in an area where the disease is common, the best method of controlling aster yellows on flowers and vegetables may be to plant flowers that are immune to the disease, such as geraniums and impatiens. Your local extension service may be able to help you choose plants that are readily available in your area.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月08日
There is a fungus among us and its name is Fusarium. This soil-borne pathogen attacks many types of plants, with ornamental flowers and some vegetables topping the list. Fusarium fungus can survive indefinitely, affecting any crop or plant that is contaminated by the soil. The fungus produces Fusarium wilt disease, which is also called “yellows.” This self- explanatory name indicates the major symptom of the disease. In crop and greenhouse settings, controlling Fusarium wilt is of primary importance, as it has the capacity to run rampant among closely grown plants. About Fusarium Fungus The fungus attacks plants in the nightshade family, such as tomatoes and peppers. It is also found in greenhouse flowers and some trees. 
Fusarium enters the roots of young plants and the organism blocks vessels in the cells. Once blocked, the cells cannot transport water and nutrients to the plant. The wilting symptom is one of the first signs that the pathogen is present. Fusarium wilt disease then progresses to faded, yellowed foliage and stunted growth. The worst signs are during the day in sunlight, but the plant may seem to recover in the dark. Over time, many plants succumb and die, while others just perform poorly and produce few flowers or fruit. Because of the contagious and tenacious nature of the fungus, control of Fusarium should start with a few evasive procedures. Preventing the fungal wilt is preferable to most Fusarium wilt treatments. Controlling Fusarium Wilt Fusarium is most prevalent in warm soils. It is harbored in old plant debris and soil. The best way to prevent infection in your crops or plants is rotation and sterilization.
Never plant the same crop in the same place annually. Pots should be sterilized with a bleach solution and new soil used when reusing them. You can also solarize beds, by spreading black plastic over an area in full sun for a month to kill the fungus. This causes extreme high temperatures that will “cook” the fungus and provide good control of Fusarium. Wash off tillage equipment, shoes and other tools that might have encountered infected soil. Remove all old plant debris annually and if you think it might be contaminated, burn it. Do not compost contaminated material as this provides an ideal incubation condition for propagating the fungus. Fusarium Wilt Treatment There are fumigants that are useful against Fusarium fungus. Many of these require a professional for application so read the instructions carefully before you purchase.
Fungicides are used as a root or bulb soak. Simply remove the soil from around the roots, bulb, corm or tuber and rinse completely. Then soak the roots or storage organs in a bucket of fresh water with the appropriate amount of a fungicide. Controlling Fusarium fungus in the garden relies upon crop rotations and clean and sanitary practices. Always inspect new plants before you purchase them. Remember, prevention is the best method of control of Fusarium and many other plant diseases.
Fusarium enters the roots of young plants and the organism blocks vessels in the cells. Once blocked, the cells cannot transport water and nutrients to the plant. The wilting symptom is one of the first signs that the pathogen is present. Fusarium wilt disease then progresses to faded, yellowed foliage and stunted growth. The worst signs are during the day in sunlight, but the plant may seem to recover in the dark. Over time, many plants succumb and die, while others just perform poorly and produce few flowers or fruit. Because of the contagious and tenacious nature of the fungus, control of Fusarium should start with a few evasive procedures. Preventing the fungal wilt is preferable to most Fusarium wilt treatments. Controlling Fusarium Wilt Fusarium is most prevalent in warm soils. It is harbored in old plant debris and soil. The best way to prevent infection in your crops or plants is rotation and sterilization.
Never plant the same crop in the same place annually. Pots should be sterilized with a bleach solution and new soil used when reusing them. You can also solarize beds, by spreading black plastic over an area in full sun for a month to kill the fungus. This causes extreme high temperatures that will “cook” the fungus and provide good control of Fusarium. Wash off tillage equipment, shoes and other tools that might have encountered infected soil. Remove all old plant debris annually and if you think it might be contaminated, burn it. Do not compost contaminated material as this provides an ideal incubation condition for propagating the fungus. Fusarium Wilt Treatment There are fumigants that are useful against Fusarium fungus. Many of these require a professional for application so read the instructions carefully before you purchase.
Fungicides are used as a root or bulb soak. Simply remove the soil from around the roots, bulb, corm or tuber and rinse completely. Then soak the roots or storage organs in a bucket of fresh water with the appropriate amount of a fungicide. Controlling Fusarium fungus in the garden relies upon crop rotations and clean and sanitary practices. Always inspect new plants before you purchase them. Remember, prevention is the best method of control of Fusarium and many other plant diseases.
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