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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月24日
White flowering rosemary (Rosmarinus officinalis ‘albus’) is an upright evergreen plant with thick, leathery, needle-like leaves. White rosemary plants tend to be lavish bloomers, producing masses of sweetly scented white flowers in late spring and summer. If you live in USDA plant hardiness zones 8 through 11, you should have no trouble growing white flowering rosemary in your garden. Birds, bees and butterflies will thank you! Read on to learn more.
Growing White Flowering Rosemary
Although white flowering rosemary tolerates partial shade, it thrives in full sunlight. This drought-tolerant Mediterranean plant needs light, well-drained soil.
Add fertilizer such as a water-soluble fertilizer, a balanced, slow-release fertilizer, or fish emulsion at planting time. Allow at least 18 to 24 inches between plants, as rosemary needs adequate air circulation to remain healthy and disease free.
Caring for White Rosemary
Water white flowering rosemary when the top of the soil feels dry to the touch. Water deeply, and then let the soil dry before watering again. Like most Mediterranean herbs, rosemary is susceptible to root rot in soggy soil. Mulch the plant to keep the roots warm in winter and cool in summer. However, don’t allow mulch to pile up against the crown of the plant, as moist mulch may invite pests and disease. Fertilize white rosemary plants every spring, as directed above. Prune white flowering rosemary lightly in spring to remove dead and unsightly growth. Trim white rosemary plants for use as needed, but never remove more than 20 percent of the plant at once. Be careful about cutting into woody growth, unless you are shaping the plant.
Uses for White Flowering Rosemary
White flowering rosemary is often planted for its ornamental appeal, which is considerable. Some gardeners believe white flowering rosemary plants, which can reach heights of 4 to 6 feet, may have pest-repellent properties. Like other types of rosemary, white rosemary plants are useful in the kitchen for flavoring chicken and other dishes. Fresh and dried rosemary is used in potpourris and sachets, and the aromatic oil is used to perfume, lotion and soap.
Growing White Flowering Rosemary
Although white flowering rosemary tolerates partial shade, it thrives in full sunlight. This drought-tolerant Mediterranean plant needs light, well-drained soil.
Add fertilizer such as a water-soluble fertilizer, a balanced, slow-release fertilizer, or fish emulsion at planting time. Allow at least 18 to 24 inches between plants, as rosemary needs adequate air circulation to remain healthy and disease free.
Caring for White Rosemary
Water white flowering rosemary when the top of the soil feels dry to the touch. Water deeply, and then let the soil dry before watering again. Like most Mediterranean herbs, rosemary is susceptible to root rot in soggy soil. Mulch the plant to keep the roots warm in winter and cool in summer. However, don’t allow mulch to pile up against the crown of the plant, as moist mulch may invite pests and disease. Fertilize white rosemary plants every spring, as directed above. Prune white flowering rosemary lightly in spring to remove dead and unsightly growth. Trim white rosemary plants for use as needed, but never remove more than 20 percent of the plant at once. Be careful about cutting into woody growth, unless you are shaping the plant.
Uses for White Flowering Rosemary
White flowering rosemary is often planted for its ornamental appeal, which is considerable. Some gardeners believe white flowering rosemary plants, which can reach heights of 4 to 6 feet, may have pest-repellent properties. Like other types of rosemary, white rosemary plants are useful in the kitchen for flavoring chicken and other dishes. Fresh and dried rosemary is used in potpourris and sachets, and the aromatic oil is used to perfume, lotion and soap.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月24日
Most rosemary plants have blue to purple flowers, but not pink flowering rosemary. This beauty is as easy to grow as its blue and purple cousins, has the same fragrant qualities but with different hued blossoms. Thinking about growing rosemary with pink flowers? Read on for information about growing pink rosemary plants.
Pink Flowering Rosemary Plants
Rosemary(Rosemarinus officinalis) is an aromatic, perennial evergreen shrub that is steeped in history. The ancient Romans and Greeks used rosemary and associated it with love of their deities Eros and Aphrodite. You are likely to love it as well for its delicious flavor, scent and ease of growing.
Rosemary is in the mint family, Labiatae, and is native to the Mediterranean hills, Portugal, and northwestern Spain. While rosemary is primarily used in culinary dishes, in ancient times, the herb was associated with remembrance, memory and fidelity. Roman students wore sprigs of rosemary woven into their hair to improve memory. It was once also woven into a bridal wreath to remind the new couples of their wedding vows. It was even said that just a light touch of rosemary could render one hopelessly in love. Pink flowering rosemary (Rosmarinus officinalis var. roseus) has a semi-weeping habit with typically small, needle-like, resinous leaves. With no pruning, pink flowering rosemary sprawls attractively or it can be tidily pruned. The pale pink blossoms bloom from spring into summer. It may be found under names such as ‘Majorca Pink,’ ‘Majorca,’ ‘Roseus,’ or ‘Roseus-Cozart.’
Growing Pink Rosemary
Pink flowering rosemary, like all rosemary plants, thrives in full sun and is drought tolerant and hardy down to 15 degrees F. (-9 C.). The shrub will grow to about three feet in height depending upon pruning and is hardy to USDA zones 8-11. This fragrant ornamental has few pest issues, although the usual culprits (aphids, mealybugs, scalesand spider mites) might be attracted to it. Root rot and botrytisare the most common diseases that afflict rosemary, but other than that the plant is susceptible to few diseases. The number one problem resulting in plant decline or even death is overwatering. Once the plant is established, it requires very little care. Water only when the weather has been extremely dry.
Prune the plant as desired. To harvest for use in food, only take 20% of the growth at any one time and don’t cut into the woody parts of the plant unless you are pruning and shaping it. Cut sprigs in the morning before the plant has flowered for the best flavor. The sprigs can then be dried or the leaves stripped from the woody stem and used fresh.
Pink Flowering Rosemary Plants
Rosemary(Rosemarinus officinalis) is an aromatic, perennial evergreen shrub that is steeped in history. The ancient Romans and Greeks used rosemary and associated it with love of their deities Eros and Aphrodite. You are likely to love it as well for its delicious flavor, scent and ease of growing.
Rosemary is in the mint family, Labiatae, and is native to the Mediterranean hills, Portugal, and northwestern Spain. While rosemary is primarily used in culinary dishes, in ancient times, the herb was associated with remembrance, memory and fidelity. Roman students wore sprigs of rosemary woven into their hair to improve memory. It was once also woven into a bridal wreath to remind the new couples of their wedding vows. It was even said that just a light touch of rosemary could render one hopelessly in love. Pink flowering rosemary (Rosmarinus officinalis var. roseus) has a semi-weeping habit with typically small, needle-like, resinous leaves. With no pruning, pink flowering rosemary sprawls attractively or it can be tidily pruned. The pale pink blossoms bloom from spring into summer. It may be found under names such as ‘Majorca Pink,’ ‘Majorca,’ ‘Roseus,’ or ‘Roseus-Cozart.’
Growing Pink Rosemary
Pink flowering rosemary, like all rosemary plants, thrives in full sun and is drought tolerant and hardy down to 15 degrees F. (-9 C.). The shrub will grow to about three feet in height depending upon pruning and is hardy to USDA zones 8-11. This fragrant ornamental has few pest issues, although the usual culprits (aphids, mealybugs, scalesand spider mites) might be attracted to it. Root rot and botrytisare the most common diseases that afflict rosemary, but other than that the plant is susceptible to few diseases. The number one problem resulting in plant decline or even death is overwatering. Once the plant is established, it requires very little care. Water only when the weather has been extremely dry.
Prune the plant as desired. To harvest for use in food, only take 20% of the growth at any one time and don’t cut into the woody parts of the plant unless you are pruning and shaping it. Cut sprigs in the morning before the plant has flowered for the best flavor. The sprigs can then be dried or the leaves stripped from the woody stem and used fresh.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月24日
Evergreen rosemary is an attractive evergreen shrub with needle-like leaves and brilliant blue flowers. The flowers of evergreen rosemary persist through spring and summer, filling the air with a nice piney fragrance. This beautiful herb, mostly used for seasoning dishes, is also commonly used as ornamental plantings in the landscape. The scientific name for rosemary plant is Rosmarinus officinalis, which translates to “mist of the sea,” as its gray-green foliage is thought to resemble mist against the sea cliffs of the Mediterranean, where the plant originates.
Evergreen Rosemary Plant Care
Rosemary plant care is easy. When growing rosemary plants, provide them with well-drained, sandy soil and at least six to eight hours of sunlight. These plants thrive in warm, humid environments and cannot take extremely cold temperatures. Since rosemary cannot withstand winters below 30 F. (-1C.), it’s often better when growing rosemary plants to put them in containers, which can be placed in ground and easily moved indoors during winter. Rosemary prefers to remain somewhat on the dry side; therefore, terra cotta pots are a good choice when selecting suitable containers. These pots allow the plant to dry out faster. Thoroughly water rosemary plants when the soil is dry to the touch but allow the plants to dry out between watering intervals. Even indoors, rosemary plants will require lots of light, at least six hours, so place the plant in a suitable location free of drafts.
Trimming Rosemary
Pruning rosemary will help make a bushier plant. Most herbs thrive on being trimmed every now and then, especially those used for flavorings. Snip sprigs just as you would when cutting back a houseplant, trimming rosemary once blooming has ceased. The general rule for trimming rosemary is not to take more than one-third of the plant at any time and make cuts just above a leaf joint. These can then be dried like any other herb by hanging tied bundles upside down in a cool, dry place.
Evergreen Rosemary Propagation
Rosemary plants are usually propagated by cuttings, as it can be tricky getting evergreen rosemary seeds to germinate. Successfully growing rosemary plants from seeds comes only when the seeds are very fresh and when planted in optimum growing conditions. Start new rosemary plants with cuttings from existing evergreen plants. Cut stems that are about 2 inches long and remove leaves on the bottom two-thirds of the cutting. Place the cuttings in a mixture of perlite and peat moss, spraying with water until roots begin to grow. Once roots have developed, you can plant the cuttings as you would with any rosemary plant. Rosemary plants are prone to becoming root bound and should be repotted at least once a year. Yellowing of the lower foliage is an early indication that it’s time to repot.
Evergreen Rosemary Plant Care
Rosemary plant care is easy. When growing rosemary plants, provide them with well-drained, sandy soil and at least six to eight hours of sunlight. These plants thrive in warm, humid environments and cannot take extremely cold temperatures. Since rosemary cannot withstand winters below 30 F. (-1C.), it’s often better when growing rosemary plants to put them in containers, which can be placed in ground and easily moved indoors during winter. Rosemary prefers to remain somewhat on the dry side; therefore, terra cotta pots are a good choice when selecting suitable containers. These pots allow the plant to dry out faster. Thoroughly water rosemary plants when the soil is dry to the touch but allow the plants to dry out between watering intervals. Even indoors, rosemary plants will require lots of light, at least six hours, so place the plant in a suitable location free of drafts.
Trimming Rosemary
Pruning rosemary will help make a bushier plant. Most herbs thrive on being trimmed every now and then, especially those used for flavorings. Snip sprigs just as you would when cutting back a houseplant, trimming rosemary once blooming has ceased. The general rule for trimming rosemary is not to take more than one-third of the plant at any time and make cuts just above a leaf joint. These can then be dried like any other herb by hanging tied bundles upside down in a cool, dry place.
Evergreen Rosemary Propagation
Rosemary plants are usually propagated by cuttings, as it can be tricky getting evergreen rosemary seeds to germinate. Successfully growing rosemary plants from seeds comes only when the seeds are very fresh and when planted in optimum growing conditions. Start new rosemary plants with cuttings from existing evergreen plants. Cut stems that are about 2 inches long and remove leaves on the bottom two-thirds of the cutting. Place the cuttings in a mixture of perlite and peat moss, spraying with water until roots begin to grow. Once roots have developed, you can plant the cuttings as you would with any rosemary plant. Rosemary plants are prone to becoming root bound and should be repotted at least once a year. Yellowing of the lower foliage is an early indication that it’s time to repot.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月24日
What is Mexican tarragon? Native to Guatemala and Mexico, this perennial, heat-loving herb is grown primarily for its flavorful licorice-like leaves. The marigold-like flowers that show up in late summer and autumn are a delightful bonus. Most commonly called Mexican marigold (Tagetes lucida), it is known by a number of alternate names, such as false tarragon, Spanish tarragon, winter tarragon, Texas tarragon or Mexican mint marigold. Read on for all you need to know about growing Mexican tarragon plants.
How to Grow Mexican Tarragon
Mexican tarragon is perennial in USDA plant hardiness zones 9 through 11. In zone 8, the plant is usually nipped by frost, but grows back in spring. In other climates, Mexican tarragon plants are often grown as annuals.
Plant Mexican tarragon in well-drained soil, as the plant is likely to rot in wet soil. Allow 18 to 24 inches between each plant; Mexican tarragon is a large plant that can reach 2 to 3 feet tall, with a similar width. Although Mexican tarragon plants tolerate partial shade, the flavor is best when the plant is exposed to full sunlight. Keep in mind that Mexican tarragon may reseed itself. Additionally, new plants are generated whenever the tall stems bend over and touch the soil.
Caring for Mexican Tarragon
Although Mexican tarragon plants are relatively drought tolerant, the plants are bushier and healthier with regular irrigation. Water only when the surface of the soil is dry, as Mexican tarragon won’t tolerate consistently soggy soil. However, don’t allow the soil to become bone dry. Water Mexican tarragon at the base of the plant, as wetting the foliage may lead to various moisture-related diseases, especially rot. A drip system or soaker hose works well.
Harvest Mexican tarragon plants regularly. The more often you harvest, the more the plant will produce. Early morning, when the essential oils are well distributed through the plant, is the best time to harvest. Mexican tarragon requires no fertilizer. Pests are generally not a concern.
How to Grow Mexican Tarragon
Mexican tarragon is perennial in USDA plant hardiness zones 9 through 11. In zone 8, the plant is usually nipped by frost, but grows back in spring. In other climates, Mexican tarragon plants are often grown as annuals.
Plant Mexican tarragon in well-drained soil, as the plant is likely to rot in wet soil. Allow 18 to 24 inches between each plant; Mexican tarragon is a large plant that can reach 2 to 3 feet tall, with a similar width. Although Mexican tarragon plants tolerate partial shade, the flavor is best when the plant is exposed to full sunlight. Keep in mind that Mexican tarragon may reseed itself. Additionally, new plants are generated whenever the tall stems bend over and touch the soil.
Caring for Mexican Tarragon
Although Mexican tarragon plants are relatively drought tolerant, the plants are bushier and healthier with regular irrigation. Water only when the surface of the soil is dry, as Mexican tarragon won’t tolerate consistently soggy soil. However, don’t allow the soil to become bone dry. Water Mexican tarragon at the base of the plant, as wetting the foliage may lead to various moisture-related diseases, especially rot. A drip system or soaker hose works well.
Harvest Mexican tarragon plants regularly. The more often you harvest, the more the plant will produce. Early morning, when the essential oils are well distributed through the plant, is the best time to harvest. Mexican tarragon requires no fertilizer. Pests are generally not a concern.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月24日
Pruning lavender is important in keeping a lavender plant producing the type of fragrant foliage that most gardeners seek. If lavender isn’t pruned regularly, it will become woody and produce fewer fragrant leaves and flowers. If you’re wondering how to prune lavender and when to prune lavender at the correct time, have no fear. All of this information is listed below.
When to Prune Lavender
You’ll start trimming lavender in the second year that it is in the ground. Newly planted or very young plants need a chance to establish themselves, and in order to do this, they need to be able to focus on growing roots. If you cut back lavender in its first year, it will put energy towards growing leaves rather than roots and this will make it a weaker plant in the long term. Once your lavender plant has had one year to establish itself, you’ll need to prune your lavender once a year. The best time for when to prune lavender is in the spring just as the new growth is starting to come in.
How to Prune Lavender
When pruning lavender, it’s important to start out with a sharp, clean set of pruning shears. Wipe down the blades of your pruning shears with rubbing alcohol or bleach to make sure all bacteria and potentially harmful germs are removed from the blades. The next step for trimming lavender is to prune one-third of the plant. This will force the lavender to create new and more growth, which will not only keep the lavender bush from going woody, but will also help to increase the amount of lavender available for harvest later in the season. Properly pruning lavender will help your lavender produce more and stay healthier and more lovely. If you follow these easy tips for how to prune lavender, you can’t go wrong.
When to Prune Lavender
You’ll start trimming lavender in the second year that it is in the ground. Newly planted or very young plants need a chance to establish themselves, and in order to do this, they need to be able to focus on growing roots. If you cut back lavender in its first year, it will put energy towards growing leaves rather than roots and this will make it a weaker plant in the long term. Once your lavender plant has had one year to establish itself, you’ll need to prune your lavender once a year. The best time for when to prune lavender is in the spring just as the new growth is starting to come in.
How to Prune Lavender
When pruning lavender, it’s important to start out with a sharp, clean set of pruning shears. Wipe down the blades of your pruning shears with rubbing alcohol or bleach to make sure all bacteria and potentially harmful germs are removed from the blades. The next step for trimming lavender is to prune one-third of the plant. This will force the lavender to create new and more growth, which will not only keep the lavender bush from going woody, but will also help to increase the amount of lavender available for harvest later in the season. Properly pruning lavender will help your lavender produce more and stay healthier and more lovely. If you follow these easy tips for how to prune lavender, you can’t go wrong.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月24日
Lavender shrubs bear bright, fragrant blossoms and can live for 20 years or more. However, after six or eight years, they can begin to look woody, filled with dead wood and bearing fewer of the sweet-smelling flowers. Don’t give up on these plants. If you want to know what to do with woody lavender, understand that pruning woody lavender plants can often restore them to their former glory. Read on to learn how to trim a lavender with woody stems.
Preventing Woody Lavender
Prevention is always easier than cure. If you have young, healthy lavender plants, you can work at preventing woody lavender with appropriate planting and cultural care. The keys to lavender care are good drainage and minimal fertilizer. Plant your lavender in well-drained, rocky soil, on a slope (if possible) to ensure drainage. Fertilize them lightly the very first year after planting. After that, do not fertilize regularly. Prune lavender lightly to maintain the rounded shape.
What to Do with Woody Lavender
When you notice that your lavender is woody, it’s time to take action to help it recover. Here’s what to do with woody lavender plants: prune them. Pruning woody lavender plants is the key to rejuvenating them. For restorative pruning, be sure to sterilize the pruners by soaking them in a solution of water and denatured alcohol to prevent disease spread. It’s also important that the tool blades are sharp. Prune these lavender in spring when all frost is finished for the season. A frost can kill off new plant growth.
How to Trim a Lavender with Woody Stems
It isn’t hard to learn how to trim a lavender with woody stems. The basic rule of pruning lavender is not to trim into brown, dead wood. You’ll usually find brown branches at the base of the plant. Remove them only when they are truly dead. Never cut them back, hoping to stimulate new growth. The plant cannot produce new growth from the woody parts. When you’re pruning woody lavender plants, it’s also a good idea not to prune all of the plant at the same time. Instead, work slowing, trimming back each branch but never into the brown wood. You can trim branches back by one-third or one-half. Always be sure that there are green leaves on the plant when you are done pruning. The entire restoration may take several years to accomplish, as you never want to do too much pruning at one time. Prune again in autumn just to shape the plant, then weed all around it and offer a handful of slow-release granular fertilizer to help get your lavender growing well before the winter cold snap.
Preventing Woody Lavender
Prevention is always easier than cure. If you have young, healthy lavender plants, you can work at preventing woody lavender with appropriate planting and cultural care. The keys to lavender care are good drainage and minimal fertilizer. Plant your lavender in well-drained, rocky soil, on a slope (if possible) to ensure drainage. Fertilize them lightly the very first year after planting. After that, do not fertilize regularly. Prune lavender lightly to maintain the rounded shape.
What to Do with Woody Lavender
When you notice that your lavender is woody, it’s time to take action to help it recover. Here’s what to do with woody lavender plants: prune them. Pruning woody lavender plants is the key to rejuvenating them. For restorative pruning, be sure to sterilize the pruners by soaking them in a solution of water and denatured alcohol to prevent disease spread. It’s also important that the tool blades are sharp. Prune these lavender in spring when all frost is finished for the season. A frost can kill off new plant growth.
How to Trim a Lavender with Woody Stems
It isn’t hard to learn how to trim a lavender with woody stems. The basic rule of pruning lavender is not to trim into brown, dead wood. You’ll usually find brown branches at the base of the plant. Remove them only when they are truly dead. Never cut them back, hoping to stimulate new growth. The plant cannot produce new growth from the woody parts. When you’re pruning woody lavender plants, it’s also a good idea not to prune all of the plant at the same time. Instead, work slowing, trimming back each branch but never into the brown wood. You can trim branches back by one-third or one-half. Always be sure that there are green leaves on the plant when you are done pruning. The entire restoration may take several years to accomplish, as you never want to do too much pruning at one time. Prune again in autumn just to shape the plant, then weed all around it and offer a handful of slow-release granular fertilizer to help get your lavender growing well before the winter cold snap.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月24日
Garlic has a host of health benefits and livens up any recipe. It is a key ingredient in both regional and international cuisine. Do garlic plants bloom? Garlic bulbs are no different than other bulbs in that they sprout and produce flowers. Ornamental garlic plants are grown to produce these blooms, which are called scapes. These are delicious when sautéed and provide an interesting, starry pouf of tiny florets to adorn the landscape.
Do Garlic Plants Bloom?
Garlic plant flowering takes place near the latter part of the plant’s life cycle. Planting garlic for its flowers is as simple as allowing the plants to develop longer than you normally would for bulb harvest. I’m always thrilled to see my garlic is flowering, as it increases the interest in the herb garden and I can still harvest the garlic bulbs, although the inflorescence will redirect energy from the bulb. For larger bulbs, remove the scapes and eat them before the buds burst open.
Bulbs are complex storage organs for plants. They house not only the embryo, which causes the plant to form shoots, but also contains the energy needed to start the growth and flowering process. Flowering is part of a plant’s life cycle where it seeks to produce seed and perpetuate itself. Although we most commonly grow garlic just for the intoxicating bulbs, allowing garlic plant flowering lends a unique and magical touch to the landscape. Intentionally planting garlic flowers is becoming popular due to the tasty scapes. These are simply the buds for the flower and have a long history as an edible in their own right.
Producing Ornamental Garlic Plants
If you want to try growing some of these aromatic bursts of white florets for yourself, start with planting garlic. If you want big, robust garlic bulbs, it’s inadvisable to allow them to flower, but letting the scapes themselves appear does not seem to slow bulb growth. Plant numerous seed garlic in fall for hardneck bulbs or in spring for soft neck. Let a few of these develop scapes and produce starry balls of flowers just for the enjoyment. The rest of the plants should have their scapes removed and use these in salads, soups, sautés, sauces and any other dish that can be improved with their mild garlic flavor.
What to Do if My Garlic Plant is Flowering
If you have planted garlic for its bulbs and neglect to remove the scapes, the plant is directing its energy to producing flowers rather than bigger bulbs. You can still harvest the bulbs but they will be small and low in flavor. In some regions, garlic can stay in the ground and produce a second year harvest. To reap the benefits the following year, remove the flowers and mulch around the garlic in fall. Let the green shoots die back. In spring, they should resprout and the number of garlic bulbs will increase. Pull away the mulch to allow shoots to emerge from the soil. This way you have one season where planting garlic flower was the goal, but a second season of bulb harvest is still possible. These may still be smaller than they would be without flowering but the flavor will be intense and delicious.
Do Garlic Plants Bloom?
Garlic plant flowering takes place near the latter part of the plant’s life cycle. Planting garlic for its flowers is as simple as allowing the plants to develop longer than you normally would for bulb harvest. I’m always thrilled to see my garlic is flowering, as it increases the interest in the herb garden and I can still harvest the garlic bulbs, although the inflorescence will redirect energy from the bulb. For larger bulbs, remove the scapes and eat them before the buds burst open.
Bulbs are complex storage organs for plants. They house not only the embryo, which causes the plant to form shoots, but also contains the energy needed to start the growth and flowering process. Flowering is part of a plant’s life cycle where it seeks to produce seed and perpetuate itself. Although we most commonly grow garlic just for the intoxicating bulbs, allowing garlic plant flowering lends a unique and magical touch to the landscape. Intentionally planting garlic flowers is becoming popular due to the tasty scapes. These are simply the buds for the flower and have a long history as an edible in their own right.
Producing Ornamental Garlic Plants
If you want to try growing some of these aromatic bursts of white florets for yourself, start with planting garlic. If you want big, robust garlic bulbs, it’s inadvisable to allow them to flower, but letting the scapes themselves appear does not seem to slow bulb growth. Plant numerous seed garlic in fall for hardneck bulbs or in spring for soft neck. Let a few of these develop scapes and produce starry balls of flowers just for the enjoyment. The rest of the plants should have their scapes removed and use these in salads, soups, sautés, sauces and any other dish that can be improved with their mild garlic flavor.
What to Do if My Garlic Plant is Flowering
If you have planted garlic for its bulbs and neglect to remove the scapes, the plant is directing its energy to producing flowers rather than bigger bulbs. You can still harvest the bulbs but they will be small and low in flavor. In some regions, garlic can stay in the ground and produce a second year harvest. To reap the benefits the following year, remove the flowers and mulch around the garlic in fall. Let the green shoots die back. In spring, they should resprout and the number of garlic bulbs will increase. Pull away the mulch to allow shoots to emerge from the soil. This way you have one season where planting garlic flower was the goal, but a second season of bulb harvest is still possible. These may still be smaller than they would be without flowering but the flavor will be intense and delicious.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月22日
Hyssop (Hysoppus officinalis) is an attractive flowering herb commonly grown for its flavorful leaves. Growing a hyssop plant is easy and makes a lovely addition to the garden. The spikes of blue, pink, or red flowers are great for attracting important pollinators to the landscape as well.
Growing Hyssop as a Garden Plant
Although most hyssop plants are grown in herb gardens, they also have their place in flower gardens as border plants. Hyssop makes a great edging plant when grown in masses as well, but did you know that hyssop plants can also be grown in containers? When you grow hyssop in containers, make sure the pot is large enough to accommodate the large root systems. Hyssop plants prefer to be grown in areas with full sun or partial shade. They need well-drained soil, a bit on the dry side, amended with organic matter.
How to Plant Hyssop Seed
The most common way to plant hyssop is by sowing seeds. Sow hyssop seeds indoors or directly in the garden about eight to 10 weeks before the last frost. Plant hyssop just beneath the soil’s surface or about a quarter inch deep. Hyssop seeds usually take between 14 and 21 days to germinate and can be transplanted (if sown indoors) in the garden after the threat of frost has ended in spring. Space hyssop plants about 6 to 12 inches apart. Once blooming has ceased and seed capsules have completely dried, they can be collected and stored for growing hyssop the next season. In some areas, however, hyssop plants will self-seed readily. In addition, the plants can be divided in fall.
Harvesting & Pruning Hyssop Plants
If growing hyssop for use in the kitchen, it is best used fresh. However, it can be dried or frozen and stored for later use. When harvesting a hyssop plant, cut it in the morning hours once any dew has dried. Hang the plants upside down in small bunches to dry in a dark, well-ventilated area. Alternatively, you can place the leaves in a plastic bag after removing them from the stems and place in the freezer until ready to use. When you grow hyssop as a garden plant, trim back established hyssop plants heavily in early spring and again after flowering to prevent them from becoming too spindly. Cutting back the foliage also encourages bushier plants. Growing hyssop as a garden plant is not only easy but can also attract wildlife like butterflies and hummingbirds to the garden. In addition, hyssop leaves can be harvested for use in salads, soups and other dishes.
Growing Hyssop as a Garden Plant
Although most hyssop plants are grown in herb gardens, they also have their place in flower gardens as border plants. Hyssop makes a great edging plant when grown in masses as well, but did you know that hyssop plants can also be grown in containers? When you grow hyssop in containers, make sure the pot is large enough to accommodate the large root systems. Hyssop plants prefer to be grown in areas with full sun or partial shade. They need well-drained soil, a bit on the dry side, amended with organic matter.
How to Plant Hyssop Seed
The most common way to plant hyssop is by sowing seeds. Sow hyssop seeds indoors or directly in the garden about eight to 10 weeks before the last frost. Plant hyssop just beneath the soil’s surface or about a quarter inch deep. Hyssop seeds usually take between 14 and 21 days to germinate and can be transplanted (if sown indoors) in the garden after the threat of frost has ended in spring. Space hyssop plants about 6 to 12 inches apart. Once blooming has ceased and seed capsules have completely dried, they can be collected and stored for growing hyssop the next season. In some areas, however, hyssop plants will self-seed readily. In addition, the plants can be divided in fall.
Harvesting & Pruning Hyssop Plants
If growing hyssop for use in the kitchen, it is best used fresh. However, it can be dried or frozen and stored for later use. When harvesting a hyssop plant, cut it in the morning hours once any dew has dried. Hang the plants upside down in small bunches to dry in a dark, well-ventilated area. Alternatively, you can place the leaves in a plastic bag after removing them from the stems and place in the freezer until ready to use. When you grow hyssop as a garden plant, trim back established hyssop plants heavily in early spring and again after flowering to prevent them from becoming too spindly. Cutting back the foliage also encourages bushier plants. Growing hyssop as a garden plant is not only easy but can also attract wildlife like butterflies and hummingbirds to the garden. In addition, hyssop leaves can be harvested for use in salads, soups and other dishes.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月22日
While children may make wishes on the fuzzy heads of dandelions, gardeners and lawn enthusiasts tend to curse the cheery yellow flowers of dandelions when they appear. And for good reason. Dandelions will push out grass and other plants, as well as sapping water and nutrients away from surrounding plants. Dandelion control also tends to be difficult due to their fluffy and far floating seeds. But the answer to the question of how to get rid of dandelions is simply a matter of thoroughness and patience.
How to Get Rid of Dandelions
There are several methods for dandelion control. All methods for dandelion removal must be performed every year. Due to the fact that dandelion seeds can travel several miles on the wind, it is difficult, if not impossible, to have permanent removal of this weed from a garden or lawn.
How to Kill Dandelions with Herbicide
There are two basic types of herbicide that can be used on dandelions. The first is a selective broadleaf herbicide. A broadleaf herbicide will only kill broadleaf weeds, such as dandelions. A broadleaf herbicide is good for killing dandelions in lawns, as the herbicide will kill the dandelions and not the grass. The other kind of effective dandelion herbicide is a non-selective herbicide. Non-selective means that the herbicide will kill any plant that it comes in contact with. Glyphosate, typically known as Round-up, is the most common type of this kind of herbicide. Non-selective herbicide is effective for spot dandelion removal, such as killing dandelions in flower beds and in walkways. When using any herbicide for dandelion control, it will work best to apply the herbicide before the dandelion has developed flowers. Once dandelion flowers have emerged, the dandelion is far more resistant to herbicides and the herbicide, broadleaf or non-selective, will not be as effective.
Hand Digging for Dandelion Removal
The most effective, but also the most time consuming, method for dandelion control is hand digging them. Hand digging should be done in the spring, right when the first dandelion seedlings appear. Special “dandelion pullers” or similar tools can be bought to help with hand digging. When hand digging as a way of how to kill dandelions, it is important to remember that you must remove the entire taproot of the dandelion. Dandelion taproots can run deep. Because dandelion taproots grow deep, it is unlikely that you will kill every dandelion in your yard during the first round of hand digging. Every few weeks, hand dig any dandelions that re-emerge from their taproots.
Using a Pre-Emergent for Dandelion Control
A pre-emergent is a chemical that can be applied your lawn or flower bed to prevent seeds from germinating. When using a pre-emergent for dandelion control, it must be applied in late winter in order to be effective. The pre-emergent will prevent the dandelion seeds from germinating and is only effective if used before the dandelion seeds have had a chance to germinate. With all of the types of ways for controlling dandelions, the most important thing to keep in mind is that you need to prevent the dandelions from going to seed. Once the fluffy seed heads appear, the number of dandelions in your yard (and your neighbor’s) will multiply. But now that you know how to get rid of dandelions, you can be confident that with some time and effort, you can have a dandelion free yard.
How to Get Rid of Dandelions
There are several methods for dandelion control. All methods for dandelion removal must be performed every year. Due to the fact that dandelion seeds can travel several miles on the wind, it is difficult, if not impossible, to have permanent removal of this weed from a garden or lawn.
How to Kill Dandelions with Herbicide
There are two basic types of herbicide that can be used on dandelions. The first is a selective broadleaf herbicide. A broadleaf herbicide will only kill broadleaf weeds, such as dandelions. A broadleaf herbicide is good for killing dandelions in lawns, as the herbicide will kill the dandelions and not the grass. The other kind of effective dandelion herbicide is a non-selective herbicide. Non-selective means that the herbicide will kill any plant that it comes in contact with. Glyphosate, typically known as Round-up, is the most common type of this kind of herbicide. Non-selective herbicide is effective for spot dandelion removal, such as killing dandelions in flower beds and in walkways. When using any herbicide for dandelion control, it will work best to apply the herbicide before the dandelion has developed flowers. Once dandelion flowers have emerged, the dandelion is far more resistant to herbicides and the herbicide, broadleaf or non-selective, will not be as effective.
Hand Digging for Dandelion Removal
The most effective, but also the most time consuming, method for dandelion control is hand digging them. Hand digging should be done in the spring, right when the first dandelion seedlings appear. Special “dandelion pullers” or similar tools can be bought to help with hand digging. When hand digging as a way of how to kill dandelions, it is important to remember that you must remove the entire taproot of the dandelion. Dandelion taproots can run deep. Because dandelion taproots grow deep, it is unlikely that you will kill every dandelion in your yard during the first round of hand digging. Every few weeks, hand dig any dandelions that re-emerge from their taproots.
Using a Pre-Emergent for Dandelion Control
A pre-emergent is a chemical that can be applied your lawn or flower bed to prevent seeds from germinating. When using a pre-emergent for dandelion control, it must be applied in late winter in order to be effective. The pre-emergent will prevent the dandelion seeds from germinating and is only effective if used before the dandelion seeds have had a chance to germinate. With all of the types of ways for controlling dandelions, the most important thing to keep in mind is that you need to prevent the dandelions from going to seed. Once the fluffy seed heads appear, the number of dandelions in your yard (and your neighbor’s) will multiply. But now that you know how to get rid of dandelions, you can be confident that with some time and effort, you can have a dandelion free yard.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月22日
There is a fun little plant with vibrant bluish purple flowers and leaves that change colors. Cerinthe is the grown-up name, but it is also called the Pride of Gibraltar and the blue shrimp plant. What is Cerinthe? Cerinthe is a Mediterranean species perfect for moderate environments. Growing Cerinthe plants require USDA plant hardiness zones 7 to 10. This versatile little guy might be the right choice to brighten up your garden.
What is Cerinthe?
In addition to its other names, Cerinthe is also known as honeywort or wax flower from the Greek ‘keros’ for wax and ‘anthos’ for flower. The plant is an herb related to borage, but the foliage is not as thickly haired. Instead, Cerinthe has thick greenish-gray foliage with softly rounded edges. New leaves are marbled with white, which disappears after the leaves mature. The leaves alternate in whorls up the stem in an attractive pattern. The Cerinthe blue shrimp plant (Cerinthe major ‘Purpurascens’) may be an annual in colder climes, or a half hardy perennial. The flowers are tiny and insignificant but are covered by colorful bracts. The bracts deepen into a bluer hue as nighttime temperatures cool. During the day they are a lighter purple tone. These herbs grow 2 to 4 feet tall and are perfect in beds, borders and pots.
Growing Cerinthe Plants
The Cerinthe blue shrimp plant is easy to start from seed. Soak the seeds overnight and start them indoors four to six weeks before the last frost. Plant the herb outside in April in most zones. Cerinthe plant care includes a well drained site, full to partial sun and moderate water. Potted plants require more water than in-ground plants. The herb is slightly drought tolerant but produces the best flower display when the plant is kept moist but not soggy.
Caring for Cerinthe
This is an easy-to-grow plant and Cerinthe plant care rates on the low to moderate scale. This herb will even flourish in rich soil with little to no maintenance. Once you have an established plant, self-seeding ensures a ready supply of plants every year. Outdoor plants will tend to reseed or you can collect seeds, dry them and save them for the next season. Harvest seeds in fall and save them in envelopes until early spring. You can trim back rangy stems, if you wish, to force a more compact plant. Stake tall plants or use a peony ring to keep stems upright. Once the plant experiences a hard freeze, it will die. In more temperate zones, remove the parent plant in winter and lightly mulch over the seeds. Fluff the soil in spring and the seeds should germinate and produce a new batch of Cerinthe blue shrimp plants. Use a diluted plant food once a month when caring for Cerinthe in pots.
What is Cerinthe?
In addition to its other names, Cerinthe is also known as honeywort or wax flower from the Greek ‘keros’ for wax and ‘anthos’ for flower. The plant is an herb related to borage, but the foliage is not as thickly haired. Instead, Cerinthe has thick greenish-gray foliage with softly rounded edges. New leaves are marbled with white, which disappears after the leaves mature. The leaves alternate in whorls up the stem in an attractive pattern. The Cerinthe blue shrimp plant (Cerinthe major ‘Purpurascens’) may be an annual in colder climes, or a half hardy perennial. The flowers are tiny and insignificant but are covered by colorful bracts. The bracts deepen into a bluer hue as nighttime temperatures cool. During the day they are a lighter purple tone. These herbs grow 2 to 4 feet tall and are perfect in beds, borders and pots.
Growing Cerinthe Plants
The Cerinthe blue shrimp plant is easy to start from seed. Soak the seeds overnight and start them indoors four to six weeks before the last frost. Plant the herb outside in April in most zones. Cerinthe plant care includes a well drained site, full to partial sun and moderate water. Potted plants require more water than in-ground plants. The herb is slightly drought tolerant but produces the best flower display when the plant is kept moist but not soggy.
Caring for Cerinthe
This is an easy-to-grow plant and Cerinthe plant care rates on the low to moderate scale. This herb will even flourish in rich soil with little to no maintenance. Once you have an established plant, self-seeding ensures a ready supply of plants every year. Outdoor plants will tend to reseed or you can collect seeds, dry them and save them for the next season. Harvest seeds in fall and save them in envelopes until early spring. You can trim back rangy stems, if you wish, to force a more compact plant. Stake tall plants or use a peony ring to keep stems upright. Once the plant experiences a hard freeze, it will die. In more temperate zones, remove the parent plant in winter and lightly mulch over the seeds. Fluff the soil in spring and the seeds should germinate and produce a new batch of Cerinthe blue shrimp plants. Use a diluted plant food once a month when caring for Cerinthe in pots.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月22日
Native to warm climates of the Mediterranean, borage is a tall, sturdy herb distinguished by deep green leaves covered with fuzzy white hairs. Masses of bright borage flowers attract honeybees and other beneficial insects all summer long. Home herb gardeners can select from four primary varieties of borage, all equally beautiful and easy to grow. Read on to learn more about various borage plant types.
Borage Plant Types
Below are the common varieties of borage:
Common borage (Borago officinalis) – Also known as starflower, common borage is the most familiar of the different types of borage. Common borage displays intensely blue blooms with contrasting black stamens. Variegata (Borago officinalis ‘Variegata’) – This interesting variegated plant displays delicate blue borage flowers and green leaves mottled with white. Alba – (Borago officinalis ‘Alba’) – Also known as white borage, Alba is a great choice if you’re looking for a plant with intense white blooms. Stalks of white borage tend to be a bit sturdier than common borage and the plant usually blooms later in the season than its blue cousin.
Creeping borage (Borago pygmaea) – Creeping borage is a sprawling plant with fragrant, pale blue blooms that appear from late spring through early autumn. Most borage varieties are fast-growing annuals, but creeping borage is a short-lived perennial suitable for growing in USDA planting zones 5 and above.
All of these plants grow well in full sun, though many borage flowers tolerate partial shade. They also prefer sandy soil, but will happily grow in just about any soil type as long as it drains well. Borage likes to be kept somewhat moist throughout the growing season, but not soggy – another reason drainage is important.
Regardless of the type grown, borage can be prone to reseeding under the right conditions, so deadheading can help alleviate this should it be a concern. Now that you know about the different varieties of borage plants you can grow in the garden, you are well on your way to becoming a borage connoisseur.
Borage Plant Types
Below are the common varieties of borage:
Common borage (Borago officinalis) – Also known as starflower, common borage is the most familiar of the different types of borage. Common borage displays intensely blue blooms with contrasting black stamens. Variegata (Borago officinalis ‘Variegata’) – This interesting variegated plant displays delicate blue borage flowers and green leaves mottled with white. Alba – (Borago officinalis ‘Alba’) – Also known as white borage, Alba is a great choice if you’re looking for a plant with intense white blooms. Stalks of white borage tend to be a bit sturdier than common borage and the plant usually blooms later in the season than its blue cousin.
Creeping borage (Borago pygmaea) – Creeping borage is a sprawling plant with fragrant, pale blue blooms that appear from late spring through early autumn. Most borage varieties are fast-growing annuals, but creeping borage is a short-lived perennial suitable for growing in USDA planting zones 5 and above.
All of these plants grow well in full sun, though many borage flowers tolerate partial shade. They also prefer sandy soil, but will happily grow in just about any soil type as long as it drains well. Borage likes to be kept somewhat moist throughout the growing season, but not soggy – another reason drainage is important.
Regardless of the type grown, borage can be prone to reseeding under the right conditions, so deadheading can help alleviate this should it be a concern. Now that you know about the different varieties of borage plants you can grow in the garden, you are well on your way to becoming a borage connoisseur.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月22日
You don’t need many excuses to grow borage. With its brilliant blue starry flowers and charismatic fuzzy stems, borage is an herb with tons of garden appeal. This plant has a rich history of use as an herbal remedy but you might also consider borage cover crops to enrich soil. Using borage as green manure allows the nutrients brought up by the plant’s deep taproot to be dispersed into the upper areas of soil when the plant composts. Borage returns high nitrogen to the soil when it is tilled back in. The result is healthy soil, rich in nutrients and deeply aerated earth.
Borage Cover Crops and Fertilizer
Borage is an old-fashioned herb with a history of culinary and medicinal use. Also known as starflower because of its arresting blue flowers, borage is also a great companion plant said to improve the flavor of tomatoes. Commercially, borage is grown for its oil content, but in the garden, you can use its leaves soaked in water as a fertilizer or plant masses of the herb as a living soil enricher. Borage provides a showy display for 4 to 6 months and then has a slow nitrogen release when you chop it back into the soil.
Planting a borage cover crop affords a period of spectacular beauty as the sea of deep blue blooms decorate the landscape. Once the flowers are spent, you can till in the plants, reducing them to smaller broken down pieces that will compost back into the soil. Using borage as green manure has a win-win effect with a season of beauty and a season of giving back to the earth. True, there are higher nitrogen cover crops that release more quickly when returned to the earth, but the colorful abandon of borage cover crops is a delight to behold and the gradual nitrogen release allows more nitrogen to remain for future crops while it conditions the soil and increases tilth.
How to Use Borage as a Cover Crop
Sow the seeds in March to April into a well turned bed that has been raked to remove any debris and obstacles. Seeds should be planted at 1/8 inch under soil and 6 inches apart. Keep the seed bed moderately moist until germination. You may need to thin the seedlings to allow the plants to mature. If you are in a hurry, you can till the plants into the soil before they flower or wait to enjoy the blooms and then chop the plants into the soil to release their nutrients slowly. The deep taproots and wide fibrous root zone will break apart problem soils and aerate, increasing water percolation and oxygen. Planting a borage cover crop in late summer will provide green material for nitrogen release but will not provide you with the flowers. It is still a worthwhile green manure that is easy to plant and grow.
How to Use Borage as Fertilizer
If you just simply like to have a few of the plants around for their beauty, use as a tea or for the decorative bee attracting flowers, the plants are still useful even in small numbers. These annuals can get 2- to 3-feet tall with numerous secondary branching stems and leaves. Strip leaves and place them in enough water to cover them. Put a lid on the container and let it ferment for two weeks. After the two-week period, drain out the solids and you now have an excellent fertilizer. Use borage as fertilizer weekly, diluted with water at 1 part to 10 parts water. The solution can keep for several months. And don’t forget to till in your annual borage plants no matter how many there are. Even small numbers of the plants are excellent soil conditioners, the plant equivalent of beauty and brains.
Borage Cover Crops and Fertilizer
Borage is an old-fashioned herb with a history of culinary and medicinal use. Also known as starflower because of its arresting blue flowers, borage is also a great companion plant said to improve the flavor of tomatoes. Commercially, borage is grown for its oil content, but in the garden, you can use its leaves soaked in water as a fertilizer or plant masses of the herb as a living soil enricher. Borage provides a showy display for 4 to 6 months and then has a slow nitrogen release when you chop it back into the soil.
Planting a borage cover crop affords a period of spectacular beauty as the sea of deep blue blooms decorate the landscape. Once the flowers are spent, you can till in the plants, reducing them to smaller broken down pieces that will compost back into the soil. Using borage as green manure has a win-win effect with a season of beauty and a season of giving back to the earth. True, there are higher nitrogen cover crops that release more quickly when returned to the earth, but the colorful abandon of borage cover crops is a delight to behold and the gradual nitrogen release allows more nitrogen to remain for future crops while it conditions the soil and increases tilth.
How to Use Borage as a Cover Crop
Sow the seeds in March to April into a well turned bed that has been raked to remove any debris and obstacles. Seeds should be planted at 1/8 inch under soil and 6 inches apart. Keep the seed bed moderately moist until germination. You may need to thin the seedlings to allow the plants to mature. If you are in a hurry, you can till the plants into the soil before they flower or wait to enjoy the blooms and then chop the plants into the soil to release their nutrients slowly. The deep taproots and wide fibrous root zone will break apart problem soils and aerate, increasing water percolation and oxygen. Planting a borage cover crop in late summer will provide green material for nitrogen release but will not provide you with the flowers. It is still a worthwhile green manure that is easy to plant and grow.
How to Use Borage as Fertilizer
If you just simply like to have a few of the plants around for their beauty, use as a tea or for the decorative bee attracting flowers, the plants are still useful even in small numbers. These annuals can get 2- to 3-feet tall with numerous secondary branching stems and leaves. Strip leaves and place them in enough water to cover them. Put a lid on the container and let it ferment for two weeks. After the two-week period, drain out the solids and you now have an excellent fertilizer. Use borage as fertilizer weekly, diluted with water at 1 part to 10 parts water. The solution can keep for several months. And don’t forget to till in your annual borage plants no matter how many there are. Even small numbers of the plants are excellent soil conditioners, the plant equivalent of beauty and brains.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月22日
Borage is a fascinating and underrated plant. While it’s completely edible, some people are turned off by its bristly leaves. While the older leaves do develop a texture that not everyone finds pleasant, the younger leaves and flowers provide a splash of color and a crisp, cucumber flavor that can’t be beaten. Even if you can’t be convinced to bring it into the kitchen, borage is a favorite of bees to such an extent that it’s often called Bee Bread. No matter who’s eating it, borage is great to have around, and so easy to grow. Keep reading to learn about borage seed propagation and growing borage from seeds.
Borage Seed Growing
Borage is a hardy annual, which means that the plant will die in a frost, but the seeds can survive in the frozen ground. This is good news for borage, as it produces a huge amount of seed in the fall. The seed falls to the ground and the plant dies, but in the spring new borage plants emerge to take its place. Basically, once you’ve planted borage once, you never need to plant it in that spot again. It reproduces only by dropped seed, though, so you don’t have to worry about it spreading across your garden while you’re not looking. Don’t want it anymore? Simply pull up the plant in early summer before the seeds have dropped.
How to Plant Borage Seeds
Borage seed propagation is very easy. If you want to collect seeds to give away or plant elsewhere in the garden, pick them off the plant when the flowers begin to wither and brown. The seeds can be stored for at least three years. Growing borage from seeds is just as easy. The seeds can be sown outdoors four weeks before the last frost. Sprinkle them on the ground and cover them with half an inch of soil or compost.
Don’t start borage seed growing in a container unless you intend to keep it in that container. Growing borage from seeds results in a very long taproot that does not transplant well.
Borage Seed Growing
Borage is a hardy annual, which means that the plant will die in a frost, but the seeds can survive in the frozen ground. This is good news for borage, as it produces a huge amount of seed in the fall. The seed falls to the ground and the plant dies, but in the spring new borage plants emerge to take its place. Basically, once you’ve planted borage once, you never need to plant it in that spot again. It reproduces only by dropped seed, though, so you don’t have to worry about it spreading across your garden while you’re not looking. Don’t want it anymore? Simply pull up the plant in early summer before the seeds have dropped.
How to Plant Borage Seeds
Borage seed propagation is very easy. If you want to collect seeds to give away or plant elsewhere in the garden, pick them off the plant when the flowers begin to wither and brown. The seeds can be stored for at least three years. Growing borage from seeds is just as easy. The seeds can be sown outdoors four weeks before the last frost. Sprinkle them on the ground and cover them with half an inch of soil or compost.
Don’t start borage seed growing in a container unless you intend to keep it in that container. Growing borage from seeds results in a very long taproot that does not transplant well.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月22日
While not a conventionally beautiful plant, angelica attracts attention in the garden because of its imposing nature. The individual purple or flowers are quite small, but they bloom in large clusters similar to Queen Anne’s lace, creating a striking display. Propagating angelica plants is a great way to enjoy them in the garden. Angelica is best grown in groups with other large plants. It combines well with ornamental grasses, large dahlias and giant alliums. When attempting angelica propagation, you should be aware that growing angelica cuttings is difficult because the stems usually fail to root. Instead, start new plants from angelica seeds or divisions of two- or three-year-old plants. The plants bloom every other year, so plant angelica in two consecutive years for a constant supply of flowers.
Starting Angelica Seeds
Angelica seeds grow best when planted as soon as they mature. When they are nearly ripe, fasten a paper bag over the flower head to catch the seeds before they fall to the ground. Use peat or fiber pots so that you won’t have to disturb the sensitive roots when you transplant the seedlings into the garden. Press the seeds gently onto the surface of the soil. They need light to germinate, so don’t cover them with soil. Place the pots in a bright location with temperatures between 60 and 65 degrees F. (15-18 C.) and keep the soil moist.
If you are propagating angelica plants from dried seeds, they need some special treatment. Sow several seeds on the surface of each peat pot. They have a low germination rate and using several seeds in each pot helps insure that seedlings will germinate. After sowing angelica seeds, place the peat pots in a plastic bag and refrigerate them for two to three weeks. Once you bring them out of the refrigerator, treat them as you would fresh seeds. If more than one seedling germinates in a pot, clip out the weakest seedlings with scissors.
How to Propagate Angelica from Divisions
Divide angelica plants when they are two or three years old. Cut the plants back to about a foot from the ground to make them easy to handle. Drive a sharp spade in to the center of the plant or lift the entire plant and divide the roots with a sharp knife. Replant the divisions immediately, spacing them 18 to 24 inches apart. An easier method of angelica propagation is to allow the plants to self-seed. If you have mulched around the plant, pull the mulch back so that the seeds that fall will come in direct contact with the soil. Leave the spent flower heads on the plant so that the seeds can mature. When growing conditions are ideal, the seeds will germinate in spring. Now that you know how to propagate angelica, you can continue to enjoy these plants each year.
Starting Angelica Seeds
Angelica seeds grow best when planted as soon as they mature. When they are nearly ripe, fasten a paper bag over the flower head to catch the seeds before they fall to the ground. Use peat or fiber pots so that you won’t have to disturb the sensitive roots when you transplant the seedlings into the garden. Press the seeds gently onto the surface of the soil. They need light to germinate, so don’t cover them with soil. Place the pots in a bright location with temperatures between 60 and 65 degrees F. (15-18 C.) and keep the soil moist.
If you are propagating angelica plants from dried seeds, they need some special treatment. Sow several seeds on the surface of each peat pot. They have a low germination rate and using several seeds in each pot helps insure that seedlings will germinate. After sowing angelica seeds, place the peat pots in a plastic bag and refrigerate them for two to three weeks. Once you bring them out of the refrigerator, treat them as you would fresh seeds. If more than one seedling germinates in a pot, clip out the weakest seedlings with scissors.
How to Propagate Angelica from Divisions
Divide angelica plants when they are two or three years old. Cut the plants back to about a foot from the ground to make them easy to handle. Drive a sharp spade in to the center of the plant or lift the entire plant and divide the roots with a sharp knife. Replant the divisions immediately, spacing them 18 to 24 inches apart. An easier method of angelica propagation is to allow the plants to self-seed. If you have mulched around the plant, pull the mulch back so that the seeds that fall will come in direct contact with the soil. Leave the spent flower heads on the plant so that the seeds can mature. When growing conditions are ideal, the seeds will germinate in spring. Now that you know how to propagate angelica, you can continue to enjoy these plants each year.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月21日
Your spider plant has happily grown for years, seeming to like the neglect and being forgotten about. Then one day little white petals on your spider plant catch your eye. Bewildered, you wonder, “Is my spider plant growing flowers?” Spider plants do bloom sometimes. Read on to learn more.
Does a Spider Plant Flower?
Spider plants do occasionally develop small white flowers at the ends of their long arching stems. Many times these flowers are so short lived and inconspicuous that they go completely unnoticed. Flowers on spider plants can grow in a cluster or can be single, depending on the variety of spider plant. Spider plant flowers are very small and white, with three-six petals.
My Spider Plant is Growing Flowers
Sometimes, certain varieties of spider plants will send out frequent flowers as a young plant but then never flower again as the plant matures. However, most spider plants won’t flower until they are mature and slightly pot bound.
If your spider plant is not sending out flowers and plantlets, it could be too much sunlight or not enough sunlight. Spider plants prefer bright, but indirect light. Spider plants also need lighting that changes with the seasons, such as more light in summer and less light in winter. It’s also a good idea to rotate hanging spider plants occasionally to give them even light for even growth.
Spider plant flowers also may not develop if the spider plant is over fertilized. You may get very bushy green plants from too much fertilizer, but no flowers or plantlets. Use only a low dose fertilizer on spider plants like a 4-4-4 or 2-4-4. If you really want spider plant flowers, you can also try a bloom boosting fertilizer in spring.
If you’re lucky enough to have a blooming spider plant, then enjoy them. You can even collect seeds from the spent flowers once the green pods have turned brown.
Does a Spider Plant Flower?
Spider plants do occasionally develop small white flowers at the ends of their long arching stems. Many times these flowers are so short lived and inconspicuous that they go completely unnoticed. Flowers on spider plants can grow in a cluster or can be single, depending on the variety of spider plant. Spider plant flowers are very small and white, with three-six petals.
My Spider Plant is Growing Flowers
Sometimes, certain varieties of spider plants will send out frequent flowers as a young plant but then never flower again as the plant matures. However, most spider plants won’t flower until they are mature and slightly pot bound.
If your spider plant is not sending out flowers and plantlets, it could be too much sunlight or not enough sunlight. Spider plants prefer bright, but indirect light. Spider plants also need lighting that changes with the seasons, such as more light in summer and less light in winter. It’s also a good idea to rotate hanging spider plants occasionally to give them even light for even growth.
Spider plant flowers also may not develop if the spider plant is over fertilized. You may get very bushy green plants from too much fertilizer, but no flowers or plantlets. Use only a low dose fertilizer on spider plants like a 4-4-4 or 2-4-4. If you really want spider plant flowers, you can also try a bloom boosting fertilizer in spring.
If you’re lucky enough to have a blooming spider plant, then enjoy them. You can even collect seeds from the spent flowers once the green pods have turned brown.
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