文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月30日
Chinese perfume tree (Aglaia odorata) is a small evergreen tree in the mahogany family. It is an ornamental plant in American gardens, typically growing to 10 feet or under and producing intensely fragrant sprays of unusual yellow flowers. If you want to start growing Chinese perfume trees, read on for information on these lovely plants and for tips on Chinese perfume tree care.
Chinese Perfume Tree Facts
Chinese perfume trees, also called Aglaia odorata plants, are native to low regions of China. They also grow in Taiwan, Indonesia, Cambodia, Laos, Thailand and Vietnam. The plant’s genus name comes from Greek mythology. Aglaia was the name of one of the three Graces.
In the wild, Aglaia ordorata plants can grow to 20 feet high. They grow in thickets or sparse forests. In the United States, they grow only in cultivation and are often planted for their fragrant blossoms.
You’ll find some interesting Chinese perfume tree facts when you read about those blossoms. The tiny yellow flowers—each about the size and shape of a grain of rice—grow in panicles about 2 to 4 inches long. They are shaped like tiny balls but do not open when the flowers bloom. The scent exuded by Chinese perfume tree flowers is sweet and lemony. It is stronger during the day than at night.
Growing Chinese Perfume Trees
If you are growing Chinese perfume trees, you need to know that an individual tree will bear either male or female flowers. Both types of flowers are fragrant, but only a pollinated female flower produces the fruit, a small berry with one seed inside. Chinese perfume tree care begins with planting the tree in an appropriate location. The trees are only hardy in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 10 through 11. In cooler regions, you can grow Aglaia odorata plants in containers and move them indoors when temperatures drop. The trees will need well-draining soil and a location with full or partial sun. Plant them in a location with some shade if your region is hot in the summer.
Container plants brought inside should be located next to sunny windows. They’ll need moderate but regular irrigation. The soil must dry out between watering times.
Chinese Perfume Tree Facts
Chinese perfume trees, also called Aglaia odorata plants, are native to low regions of China. They also grow in Taiwan, Indonesia, Cambodia, Laos, Thailand and Vietnam. The plant’s genus name comes from Greek mythology. Aglaia was the name of one of the three Graces.
In the wild, Aglaia ordorata plants can grow to 20 feet high. They grow in thickets or sparse forests. In the United States, they grow only in cultivation and are often planted for their fragrant blossoms.
You’ll find some interesting Chinese perfume tree facts when you read about those blossoms. The tiny yellow flowers—each about the size and shape of a grain of rice—grow in panicles about 2 to 4 inches long. They are shaped like tiny balls but do not open when the flowers bloom. The scent exuded by Chinese perfume tree flowers is sweet and lemony. It is stronger during the day than at night.
Growing Chinese Perfume Trees
If you are growing Chinese perfume trees, you need to know that an individual tree will bear either male or female flowers. Both types of flowers are fragrant, but only a pollinated female flower produces the fruit, a small berry with one seed inside. Chinese perfume tree care begins with planting the tree in an appropriate location. The trees are only hardy in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 10 through 11. In cooler regions, you can grow Aglaia odorata plants in containers and move them indoors when temperatures drop. The trees will need well-draining soil and a location with full or partial sun. Plant them in a location with some shade if your region is hot in the summer.
Container plants brought inside should be located next to sunny windows. They’ll need moderate but regular irrigation. The soil must dry out between watering times.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月30日
Fragrant champaca trees make romantic additions to your garden. These broad-leaf evergreens, bear the scientific name of Magnolia champaca, but were formerly called Michelia champaca. They offer generous crops of large, showy golden flowers. For more fragrant champaca information including tips about caring for champaca trees, read on.
Fragrant Champaca Information
For gardeners unfamiliar with this small garden beauty, the tree is in the magnolia family and native to Southeast Asia. Fragrant champaca trees don’t get larger than 30 feet (9 m.) tall and wide. They have a slender, light gray trunk and a rounded crown and are often trimmed into a lollypop shape.
If you are growing champaca magnolias, you’ll love the yellow/orange flowers. They appear in summer and last through early autumn. The fragrance from the tree’s blossoms is intense and perfumes your entire garden and backyard. In fact, the flower smell is so lovely that it is used to make the most expensive perfume in the world. The tree’s leaves grow to 10 inches (25 cm.) long and stay on the tree all year. They are green, slender and shiny. The seed groups form in summer, then drop in winter. The fruits also form in summer and drop in winter.
Growing Champaca Magnolias
If you are interested in growing fragrant champaca trees, you’ll want information on their cultural requirements. First, be sure you live in a warm region. Champaca plant care starts with siting the tree in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 10 through 11. If you are buying a container plant, here’s what you need to know about caring for champaca trees. They will thrive in almost any soil and, while they prefer a location with morning sun, they tolerate shade. Caring for champaca trees involves lots of water, initially. You’ll have to irrigate your plants regularly and generously until they are established. At that point, you can water them less.
Propagating a Champaca Tree
If you are wondering how to grow fragrant champaca from seed, it is possible. If there are fragrant champaca trees on your street or a nearby park, it is even easier. Start growing champaca magnolias from seed by harvesting the fruit. Wait until the fruit ripens in fall, then remove some from the tree. Put them in a dry place until they split open, revealing the seeds inside. Lightly sand down parts of the seeds with sandpaper and nick them with a knife. Then soak them in hot water for 24 hours until they double in size. It will also make champaca plant care easier if you treat the seeds before planting with a fungicide.
Plant the seeds, just barely covered, in acidic potting soil and spray to keep the soil constantly moist. Keep them covered with plastic wrap to increase humidity. Keep them very warm (85 degrees F. or 29 degrees C.) until they germinate.
Fragrant Champaca Information
For gardeners unfamiliar with this small garden beauty, the tree is in the magnolia family and native to Southeast Asia. Fragrant champaca trees don’t get larger than 30 feet (9 m.) tall and wide. They have a slender, light gray trunk and a rounded crown and are often trimmed into a lollypop shape.
If you are growing champaca magnolias, you’ll love the yellow/orange flowers. They appear in summer and last through early autumn. The fragrance from the tree’s blossoms is intense and perfumes your entire garden and backyard. In fact, the flower smell is so lovely that it is used to make the most expensive perfume in the world. The tree’s leaves grow to 10 inches (25 cm.) long and stay on the tree all year. They are green, slender and shiny. The seed groups form in summer, then drop in winter. The fruits also form in summer and drop in winter.
Growing Champaca Magnolias
If you are interested in growing fragrant champaca trees, you’ll want information on their cultural requirements. First, be sure you live in a warm region. Champaca plant care starts with siting the tree in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 10 through 11. If you are buying a container plant, here’s what you need to know about caring for champaca trees. They will thrive in almost any soil and, while they prefer a location with morning sun, they tolerate shade. Caring for champaca trees involves lots of water, initially. You’ll have to irrigate your plants regularly and generously until they are established. At that point, you can water them less.
Propagating a Champaca Tree
If you are wondering how to grow fragrant champaca from seed, it is possible. If there are fragrant champaca trees on your street or a nearby park, it is even easier. Start growing champaca magnolias from seed by harvesting the fruit. Wait until the fruit ripens in fall, then remove some from the tree. Put them in a dry place until they split open, revealing the seeds inside. Lightly sand down parts of the seeds with sandpaper and nick them with a knife. Then soak them in hot water for 24 hours until they double in size. It will also make champaca plant care easier if you treat the seeds before planting with a fungicide.
Plant the seeds, just barely covered, in acidic potting soil and spray to keep the soil constantly moist. Keep them covered with plastic wrap to increase humidity. Keep them very warm (85 degrees F. or 29 degrees C.) until they germinate.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月30日
No one can visit a tropical locale without noticing the multi-trunked trees with golden flowers cascading from the branches. Growing cassia trees (Cassia fistula) line the boulevards of many tropical cities; and when you see one in full flower for the first time, you have to ask, “How hardy is a cassia tree and can I take one home?”
Cassia Tree Info
If you live anywhere north of growing zone 10b and don’t have a climate controlled greenhouse, the answer is probably no. If you do meet one of those requirements, you’re in luck. Cassia tree info tells us that, depending on the species, these trees come in evergreen, semi-evergreen and deciduous types with brilliant pink, orange, red, white or yellow flowers. Yellow is the most common flower type and gives the tree one of its many common names, the gold medallion tree. Each flower is only about two to three inches wide but appear in clusters along densely packed racemes that on a mature growing cassia tree can reach two feet long. The light green leaves of the cassia tree are pinnate with six to twelve pairs of long oval leaflets and grow to two feet or more. Once flowering is over, the flowers are replaced with seed pods.
Growing Cassia Trees
If you live in an area that meets the requirements of how hardy is a cassia tree, planting a cassia tree can be a striking addition to your landscape. Most cassia tree info recommends growing cassia trees from seed. There’s a trick to this, however. The seeds are rock hard and water tight, so you can either soak them in sulfuric acid (No kidding! And it needs to be concentrated, too. In nature, this process occurs in the digestive tracts of animals.), or you can scarify or slit the seed coat. Soak the seed in water for at least 24 hours and nick the seed with a sharp knife. Keep the seed moist in a pot of commercial growing medium. You can, of course, purchase a tree from your local nursery or order it from a catalog. The following directions for planting a cassia tree will be the same.
Tips for Planting a Cassia Tree and Its Care
Cassia tree care requires very little, but that little is important. Once your seed has germinated and has about six leaves, it’s time to decide where your tree will be growing. Cassia trees need full sun to flower and produce the most colorful blossoms. They are tolerant of most soil types with a neutral pH, and while they like water, they do best in well drained soils. Dig your whole twice the size of the root ball and add peat moss and compost to the fill dirt, adding a handful of slow release fertilizer. Planting a cassia tree this way will give it the healthiest start. Leave a trough around your tree to collect water and see that it is watered regularly until the roots are well established.
Young trees need to be staked and will look a little scrawny for the first five years or so and then it will begin to fill out. These trees have a tendency to ‘weep’ so if you want a fuller look, pruning will be a part of your early cassia tree care. Still asking how hardy is a cassia tree? They rarely survive temperatures below 30 F. (-1 C.) and since they reach heights of 20 to 30 feet, that greenhouse better be a big one. Sometimes it’s better to dream. But for those of you who live in or on the edge of the tropics, think about planting a cassia tree as a lush tropical canopy for your yard.
One final word of warning. While all parts of the cassia tree were once used for ancient medical remedies, it is not safe to ingest any part of the tree. The seeds can be particularly toxic, so keep this in mind around children or pets.
Cassia Tree Info
If you live anywhere north of growing zone 10b and don’t have a climate controlled greenhouse, the answer is probably no. If you do meet one of those requirements, you’re in luck. Cassia tree info tells us that, depending on the species, these trees come in evergreen, semi-evergreen and deciduous types with brilliant pink, orange, red, white or yellow flowers. Yellow is the most common flower type and gives the tree one of its many common names, the gold medallion tree. Each flower is only about two to three inches wide but appear in clusters along densely packed racemes that on a mature growing cassia tree can reach two feet long. The light green leaves of the cassia tree are pinnate with six to twelve pairs of long oval leaflets and grow to two feet or more. Once flowering is over, the flowers are replaced with seed pods.
Growing Cassia Trees
If you live in an area that meets the requirements of how hardy is a cassia tree, planting a cassia tree can be a striking addition to your landscape. Most cassia tree info recommends growing cassia trees from seed. There’s a trick to this, however. The seeds are rock hard and water tight, so you can either soak them in sulfuric acid (No kidding! And it needs to be concentrated, too. In nature, this process occurs in the digestive tracts of animals.), or you can scarify or slit the seed coat. Soak the seed in water for at least 24 hours and nick the seed with a sharp knife. Keep the seed moist in a pot of commercial growing medium. You can, of course, purchase a tree from your local nursery or order it from a catalog. The following directions for planting a cassia tree will be the same.
Tips for Planting a Cassia Tree and Its Care
Cassia tree care requires very little, but that little is important. Once your seed has germinated and has about six leaves, it’s time to decide where your tree will be growing. Cassia trees need full sun to flower and produce the most colorful blossoms. They are tolerant of most soil types with a neutral pH, and while they like water, they do best in well drained soils. Dig your whole twice the size of the root ball and add peat moss and compost to the fill dirt, adding a handful of slow release fertilizer. Planting a cassia tree this way will give it the healthiest start. Leave a trough around your tree to collect water and see that it is watered regularly until the roots are well established.
Young trees need to be staked and will look a little scrawny for the first five years or so and then it will begin to fill out. These trees have a tendency to ‘weep’ so if you want a fuller look, pruning will be a part of your early cassia tree care. Still asking how hardy is a cassia tree? They rarely survive temperatures below 30 F. (-1 C.) and since they reach heights of 20 to 30 feet, that greenhouse better be a big one. Sometimes it’s better to dream. But for those of you who live in or on the edge of the tropics, think about planting a cassia tree as a lush tropical canopy for your yard.
One final word of warning. While all parts of the cassia tree were once used for ancient medical remedies, it is not safe to ingest any part of the tree. The seeds can be particularly toxic, so keep this in mind around children or pets.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月30日
Cassia trees are also called candlebrush, and it’s easy to see why. In late summer, the golden yellow flowers that hang from the branches in long clusters resemble candles. This large, spreading shrub or small tree makes a great container accent plant that looks fantastic on patios and near entryways. You can also use it as a specimen or lawn tree. Pruning cassia trees helps strengthen the structure and keeps it looking neat.
When to Trim Cassia Trees
Prune cassia trees at planting time only if necessary to removed dead and diseased branches and those that cross and rub against each other. Rubbing causes wounds that can provide entry points for insects and disease organisms. Cassia trees are normally pruned in late winter or early spring. Early pruning gives the shrub plenty of time to form the buds that will bloom in late summer. Do the first structural pruning the first spring after planting. Early spring is also a good time to pinch out the tips of new growth to encourage more lateral shoots and flowers.
How to Prune Cassia Trees
Cassia tree pruning begins by removing dead and diseased branches. If you are removing just a portion of a branch, make the cut one-quarter inch above a bud or twig. New stems will grow in the direction of the bud or twig, so choose the site carefully. Cut out diseased and damaged branches several inches below the damage. If the wood in the cross section of the cut is dark or discolored, cut a little further down the stem. When pruning for structure, remove branches that shoot straight up and leave those that have a wide crotch between the branch and the trunk. Make a clean cut flush with the trunk when removing a branch. Never leave a long stub.
Removing the tips of new growth encourages more new branches and flowers. Take off the tips of the stems, cutting just above the last bud on the branch. Since the flowers form on new growth, you’ll get more flowers as the new shoots form.
When to Trim Cassia Trees
Prune cassia trees at planting time only if necessary to removed dead and diseased branches and those that cross and rub against each other. Rubbing causes wounds that can provide entry points for insects and disease organisms. Cassia trees are normally pruned in late winter or early spring. Early pruning gives the shrub plenty of time to form the buds that will bloom in late summer. Do the first structural pruning the first spring after planting. Early spring is also a good time to pinch out the tips of new growth to encourage more lateral shoots and flowers.
How to Prune Cassia Trees
Cassia tree pruning begins by removing dead and diseased branches. If you are removing just a portion of a branch, make the cut one-quarter inch above a bud or twig. New stems will grow in the direction of the bud or twig, so choose the site carefully. Cut out diseased and damaged branches several inches below the damage. If the wood in the cross section of the cut is dark or discolored, cut a little further down the stem. When pruning for structure, remove branches that shoot straight up and leave those that have a wide crotch between the branch and the trunk. Make a clean cut flush with the trunk when removing a branch. Never leave a long stub.
Removing the tips of new growth encourages more new branches and flowers. Take off the tips of the stems, cutting just above the last bud on the branch. Since the flowers form on new growth, you’ll get more flowers as the new shoots form.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月30日
With white flowers that are shaped like bells, the Carolina silverbell tree (Halesia carolina) is an understory tree that grows frequently along streams in the southeastern United States. Hardy to USDA zones 4-8, this tree sports pretty, bell-shaped flowers from April through May. Trees range in height from 20 to 30 feet and have a 15- to 35-foot spread. Keep reading for information about growing Halesia silverbells.
How to Grow a Carolina Silverbell Tree
Growing Halesia silverbells is not overly difficult as long as you provide the right soil conditions. Moist and acidic soil that drains well is best. If your soil is not acidic, try adding iron sulfate, aluminum sulfate, sulfur or sphagnum peat moss. Amounts will vary depending on your location and how acidic your soil already is. Be sure to take a soil sample before amending. Container grown plants are recommended for best results. Propagation by seed is possible and it is best to gather seeds in the fall from a mature tree. Harvest around five to ten mature seedpods that do not have any physical signs of damage. Soak the seeds in sulfuric acid for eight hours followed by 21 hours of soaking in water. Wipe away deteriorated pieces from the pods.
Mix 2 parts compost with 2 parts potting soil and 1 part sand, and place into a flat or large pot. Plant the seeds about 2 inches deep and cover with soil. Then cover the top of each pot or flat with mulch. Water until moist and keep the soil moist at all times. Germination can take as long as two years. Rotate every two to three months between warm (70-80 F./21-27 C.) and cold (35 -42 F./2-6 C.) temperatures.
Choose a suitable location to plant your tree after the second year and provide an organic fertilizer when you plant and each spring thereafter as part of your Halesia tree care until it is well established.
How to Grow a Carolina Silverbell Tree
Growing Halesia silverbells is not overly difficult as long as you provide the right soil conditions. Moist and acidic soil that drains well is best. If your soil is not acidic, try adding iron sulfate, aluminum sulfate, sulfur or sphagnum peat moss. Amounts will vary depending on your location and how acidic your soil already is. Be sure to take a soil sample before amending. Container grown plants are recommended for best results. Propagation by seed is possible and it is best to gather seeds in the fall from a mature tree. Harvest around five to ten mature seedpods that do not have any physical signs of damage. Soak the seeds in sulfuric acid for eight hours followed by 21 hours of soaking in water. Wipe away deteriorated pieces from the pods.
Mix 2 parts compost with 2 parts potting soil and 1 part sand, and place into a flat or large pot. Plant the seeds about 2 inches deep and cover with soil. Then cover the top of each pot or flat with mulch. Water until moist and keep the soil moist at all times. Germination can take as long as two years. Rotate every two to three months between warm (70-80 F./21-27 C.) and cold (35 -42 F./2-6 C.) temperatures.
Choose a suitable location to plant your tree after the second year and provide an organic fertilizer when you plant and each spring thereafter as part of your Halesia tree care until it is well established.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月30日
The classic, trumpet-shaped flowers of brugmansia make it a favorite of gardeners everywhere, but brugmansia diseases can stop this plant’s display short. Because brugmansia is a close relative of tomatoes, issues with brugmansia are similar to those of its popular cousin. Treating sick brugmansia plants starts with correct identification of the pathogen involved.
Disease Problems of Brugmansia
Understanding the pathogen is the best way to get started with diseased brugmansia care. Although this list is far from exhaustive, being able to recognize these common brugmansia diseases will help you make the right care decisions for your plant:
Bacterial Leaf Spot – Caused by the bacteria Xanthomonas campestris pv. hederae, bacterial leaf spot is encouraged by high humidity. It appears as a series of small brown spots surrounded by a yellow halo and can spread rapidly. When it appears, thin your plants to increase air circulation, clean up any fallen plant debris and remove all affected leaves to slow or stop the infection.
Downy Mildew – This common fungal disease is caused by a number of fungal pathogens, but it always appears similarly. When you notice irregular yellow spots on the tops of your plant’s leaves and a webby or cottony growth on the underside, you’ve got downy mildew. You can treat it easily with neem oil, applied to both sides of the leaves at 7- to 14-day intervals for several weeks. Powdery Mildew – Powdery mildew is very similar to downy mildew and is treated in the same way. Instead of the fungal mass being on the underside of the leaf though, a powdery, mealy substance appears on the top of the leaf. Both diseases can be deadly if left untreated and plants may benefit from a reduction in the humidity level.
Root Rot – Common soil fungi, like Pythium, are responsible for destroying the roots of brugmansia when the soil has remained waterlogged for an extended period. Sick plants will wilt readily and may appear less vigorous, but you won’t know for certain you’ve got root rot unless you dig your plant and check the roots. Black, brown or soft roots, or those whose sheaths slide off readily are already dead or dying. You can sometimes save these plants by repotting them in dry soil with excellent drainage and watering them well. Never leave a plant in standing water, as this only encourages root rot. Verticillium Wilt – A devastating and all-too-common problem, verticillium wilt is the result of pathogenic fungus that enters the affected brugmansia’s transport tissues through the root system and rapidly multiplies. Plants typically will die in sections, with yellow leaves appearing all along one stem early in the disease. As it spreads, more of the plant wits and drops. There is no cure for verticillium wilt, but planting future brugmansia in sterile soil can help to prevent it from taking hold.
Viruses – Tobacco mosaic and tomato spotted wilt viruses are the most common viruses among brugmansia. Tobacco mosaic causes a distinctive mosaic pattern of yellow and green areas on the leaf, along with deformed fruits and flowers. Tomato spotted wilt stunts plant growth and causes brown to black streaking on stems, as well as leaf deformity and yellow veins. Unfortunately, viruses are for life in plants. All you can do is destroy the infected brugmansia to prevent spreading the disease to nearby plants.
Disease Problems of Brugmansia
Understanding the pathogen is the best way to get started with diseased brugmansia care. Although this list is far from exhaustive, being able to recognize these common brugmansia diseases will help you make the right care decisions for your plant:
Bacterial Leaf Spot – Caused by the bacteria Xanthomonas campestris pv. hederae, bacterial leaf spot is encouraged by high humidity. It appears as a series of small brown spots surrounded by a yellow halo and can spread rapidly. When it appears, thin your plants to increase air circulation, clean up any fallen plant debris and remove all affected leaves to slow or stop the infection.
Downy Mildew – This common fungal disease is caused by a number of fungal pathogens, but it always appears similarly. When you notice irregular yellow spots on the tops of your plant’s leaves and a webby or cottony growth on the underside, you’ve got downy mildew. You can treat it easily with neem oil, applied to both sides of the leaves at 7- to 14-day intervals for several weeks. Powdery Mildew – Powdery mildew is very similar to downy mildew and is treated in the same way. Instead of the fungal mass being on the underside of the leaf though, a powdery, mealy substance appears on the top of the leaf. Both diseases can be deadly if left untreated and plants may benefit from a reduction in the humidity level.
Root Rot – Common soil fungi, like Pythium, are responsible for destroying the roots of brugmansia when the soil has remained waterlogged for an extended period. Sick plants will wilt readily and may appear less vigorous, but you won’t know for certain you’ve got root rot unless you dig your plant and check the roots. Black, brown or soft roots, or those whose sheaths slide off readily are already dead or dying. You can sometimes save these plants by repotting them in dry soil with excellent drainage and watering them well. Never leave a plant in standing water, as this only encourages root rot. Verticillium Wilt – A devastating and all-too-common problem, verticillium wilt is the result of pathogenic fungus that enters the affected brugmansia’s transport tissues through the root system and rapidly multiplies. Plants typically will die in sections, with yellow leaves appearing all along one stem early in the disease. As it spreads, more of the plant wits and drops. There is no cure for verticillium wilt, but planting future brugmansia in sterile soil can help to prevent it from taking hold.
Viruses – Tobacco mosaic and tomato spotted wilt viruses are the most common viruses among brugmansia. Tobacco mosaic causes a distinctive mosaic pattern of yellow and green areas on the leaf, along with deformed fruits and flowers. Tomato spotted wilt stunts plant growth and causes brown to black streaking on stems, as well as leaf deformity and yellow veins. Unfortunately, viruses are for life in plants. All you can do is destroy the infected brugmansia to prevent spreading the disease to nearby plants.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月30日
Also known as angel trumpet or simply “brug,” brugmansia is a shrubby plant with masses of impressive, trumpet-shaped flowers measuring up to 20 inches in length. The stunning blooms appear from spring until early winter. Although little care is required to grow this beauty, brugmansia pests and diseases may compromise the health and longevity of the plant.
Brugmansia Diseases
The most common Brugmansia diseases include:
Fungal wilts
Fungal issues affecting brugmansia include fusarium and verticillium wilt. Both diseases, which enter the plant through the roots and travel up the stem, block transmission of water and cause stunted growth and wilted foliage. Fusarium wilt is usually seen in warm weather, while verticillium is more common when the weather is cool. There are no practical chemical controls for fusarium and verticillium wilt, and the fungi can live in the soil for long periods. The best recourse is to begin with healthy, disease-resistant plants and grow them in contaminant-free potting medium.
Mosaic virus
Tobacco mosaic virus is identified by mosaic-like, yellow or light green areas. Although the virus rarely kills the plant, it can affect its appearance. Once infected, the disease remains for the life of the plant.
Root rot
Rot is a common, usually deadly, fungal disease caused by excessive watering. To prevent root rot, keep the potting mix moist, but never soggy, during the summer months. Decrease watering when temperatures drop in late summer or autumn.
Pests of Brugmansia
Brugmansia problems include pests such as:
Whiteflies
Weevils
Thrips
Scale
Aphids
Mites
Take steps to control the pests without chemicals; avoidance of insecticides is an important aspect of pest management. Chemicals are counterproductive because they kill insects such as lady beetles and lacewings that help keep pests in check. Insecticidal soap is useful in the control of sap-sucking insects and poses minimal danger to beneficial insects. Use the product only as directed, and never spray when beneficial insects are present on the leaves. Neem oil is another option.
Tomato hornworms are a different type of pest that can defoliate a plant quickly. The best control is to hand-pick the large, caterpillar-like pests, which are most often seen in mornings and early evenings. If squishing the pests makes you squeamish, drop them into a container of soapy water. Leave hornworms alone if you notice small larvae feeding on the pests. The larvae are trichogramma, parasitic wasps that are extremely effective when it comes to eating the eggs of numerous garden pests. These tiny wasps are highly beneficial in the garden, and they don’t sting.
Brugmansia Diseases
The most common Brugmansia diseases include:
Fungal wilts
Fungal issues affecting brugmansia include fusarium and verticillium wilt. Both diseases, which enter the plant through the roots and travel up the stem, block transmission of water and cause stunted growth and wilted foliage. Fusarium wilt is usually seen in warm weather, while verticillium is more common when the weather is cool. There are no practical chemical controls for fusarium and verticillium wilt, and the fungi can live in the soil for long periods. The best recourse is to begin with healthy, disease-resistant plants and grow them in contaminant-free potting medium.
Mosaic virus
Tobacco mosaic virus is identified by mosaic-like, yellow or light green areas. Although the virus rarely kills the plant, it can affect its appearance. Once infected, the disease remains for the life of the plant.
Root rot
Rot is a common, usually deadly, fungal disease caused by excessive watering. To prevent root rot, keep the potting mix moist, but never soggy, during the summer months. Decrease watering when temperatures drop in late summer or autumn.
Pests of Brugmansia
Brugmansia problems include pests such as:
Whiteflies
Weevils
Thrips
Scale
Aphids
Mites
Take steps to control the pests without chemicals; avoidance of insecticides is an important aspect of pest management. Chemicals are counterproductive because they kill insects such as lady beetles and lacewings that help keep pests in check. Insecticidal soap is useful in the control of sap-sucking insects and poses minimal danger to beneficial insects. Use the product only as directed, and never spray when beneficial insects are present on the leaves. Neem oil is another option.
Tomato hornworms are a different type of pest that can defoliate a plant quickly. The best control is to hand-pick the large, caterpillar-like pests, which are most often seen in mornings and early evenings. If squishing the pests makes you squeamish, drop them into a container of soapy water. Leave hornworms alone if you notice small larvae feeding on the pests. The larvae are trichogramma, parasitic wasps that are extremely effective when it comes to eating the eggs of numerous garden pests. These tiny wasps are highly beneficial in the garden, and they don’t sting.
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0
文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月30日
With showy, white flowers that bloom in summer and attractive, glossy evergreen foliage, beauty leaf trees are tropical gems that deserve their name. They grow slowly to a height of up to 50 feet with a lush canopy that spreads 30 to 50 feet. Their intense fragrance and dense shade make them highly desirable specimen trees, but as you’ll see, they aren’t suitable for most North American landscapes.
What is a Beauty Leaf Tree?
Beauty leaf tree (Calophyllum inophyllum) is a broadleaf evergreen native to Australia, Eastern Africa and Southern India to Malaysia. According to most Calophyllum tree info, lumber from a beauty leaf is very hard and of high quality. In shipbuilding it is used to make masts and planks, and it is also used to build fine furniture.
All parts of the Calophyllum beauty leaf are considered poisonous. The fruit is so toxic that it can be ground and used as rat bait. The sap is fatal when introduced into the blood stream, and was once used as arrow poison.
Beauty leaf trees make a fine windbreak or hedge trees. They excel as street trees in areas that aren’t frequented by pedestrians. Calophyllums can also be used for espalier trees. Calophyllum beauty leaf is a great tree for frost-free coastal areas. Sandy soil, strong winds and salt spray aren’t a problem. High winds give the trunk a lovely, gnarled and twisted character. The branches are strong and don’t break when blown about.
Can You Grow Calophyllum Trees?
Beauty leaf trees are only for gardeners in frost-free areas. Rated for USDA plant hardiness zones 10b and 11, they die when exposed to freezing temperatures. If you live in a climate where you can grow a beauty leaf tree, you should consider the impact the fruit has on the landscape before planting the tree. Hard, golf ball-sized fruit drop from the tree when ripe. The fruit serves no useful purpose since it is poisonous and is not attractive to wildlife. Leaves and fruit create a significant litter problem and falling fruit is a hazard to anyone who wants to enjoy the shade of the tree’s dense canopy.
What is a Beauty Leaf Tree?
Beauty leaf tree (Calophyllum inophyllum) is a broadleaf evergreen native to Australia, Eastern Africa and Southern India to Malaysia. According to most Calophyllum tree info, lumber from a beauty leaf is very hard and of high quality. In shipbuilding it is used to make masts and planks, and it is also used to build fine furniture.
All parts of the Calophyllum beauty leaf are considered poisonous. The fruit is so toxic that it can be ground and used as rat bait. The sap is fatal when introduced into the blood stream, and was once used as arrow poison.
Beauty leaf trees make a fine windbreak or hedge trees. They excel as street trees in areas that aren’t frequented by pedestrians. Calophyllums can also be used for espalier trees. Calophyllum beauty leaf is a great tree for frost-free coastal areas. Sandy soil, strong winds and salt spray aren’t a problem. High winds give the trunk a lovely, gnarled and twisted character. The branches are strong and don’t break when blown about.
Can You Grow Calophyllum Trees?
Beauty leaf trees are only for gardeners in frost-free areas. Rated for USDA plant hardiness zones 10b and 11, they die when exposed to freezing temperatures. If you live in a climate where you can grow a beauty leaf tree, you should consider the impact the fruit has on the landscape before planting the tree. Hard, golf ball-sized fruit drop from the tree when ripe. The fruit serves no useful purpose since it is poisonous and is not attractive to wildlife. Leaves and fruit create a significant litter problem and falling fruit is a hazard to anyone who wants to enjoy the shade of the tree’s dense canopy.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月30日
Wedelia is a plant that has some very mixed reviews, and rightly so. While praised by some for its small, bright yellow flowers and ability to prevent erosion, it is also reviled by others for its aggressive spreading tendencies. Keep reading to learn both about growing wedelia groundcover and the dangers of wedelia propagation.
How to Grow Wedelia
Wedelia (Wedelia trilobata) is an herbaceous perennial that’s hardy in USDA zones 8b through 11. It tends to grow to between 18 and 24 inches (45-62 cm.) high. It thrives in full shade, full sun, and everything in between, but it produces flowers most impressively in full sun. Its flowers are its most appealing feature: small, yellow, daisy-like, and very prolific. It can handle a wide range of pH levels and will perform well in virtually any soil. In other words, wedelia plant care is extremely low maintenance. It will grow and thrive almost anywhere as long as the weather is warm enough. The plant is extremely tough and can handle pruning almost down to the ground. The optimal height for blossom production is about 4 inches (10 cm.).
Managing Wedelia Plants
The main aspect of wedelia plant care isn’t making sure it grows well, but rather making sure it doesn’t grow too well. Whenever wedelia stems touch the ground, they take root. This means the plant has an extremely aggressive spreading habit. While this is good news for one of the main wedelia plant uses, holding down soil in otherwise barren sites that are prone to erosion, it makes it very unsuited to backyards and gardens, where it is likely to completely take over.
In some states, it is classified as an invasive species. Check with your local extension office before planting. Even if it’s not an invasive species where you live, be very wary of planting this aggressive groundcover. If you do decide to plant, keep it in check by providing it only minimal water and fertilizer. With ample amounts of either, it will truly take off and overwhelm you.
How to Grow Wedelia
Wedelia (Wedelia trilobata) is an herbaceous perennial that’s hardy in USDA zones 8b through 11. It tends to grow to between 18 and 24 inches (45-62 cm.) high. It thrives in full shade, full sun, and everything in between, but it produces flowers most impressively in full sun. Its flowers are its most appealing feature: small, yellow, daisy-like, and very prolific. It can handle a wide range of pH levels and will perform well in virtually any soil. In other words, wedelia plant care is extremely low maintenance. It will grow and thrive almost anywhere as long as the weather is warm enough. The plant is extremely tough and can handle pruning almost down to the ground. The optimal height for blossom production is about 4 inches (10 cm.).
Managing Wedelia Plants
The main aspect of wedelia plant care isn’t making sure it grows well, but rather making sure it doesn’t grow too well. Whenever wedelia stems touch the ground, they take root. This means the plant has an extremely aggressive spreading habit. While this is good news for one of the main wedelia plant uses, holding down soil in otherwise barren sites that are prone to erosion, it makes it very unsuited to backyards and gardens, where it is likely to completely take over.
In some states, it is classified as an invasive species. Check with your local extension office before planting. Even if it’s not an invasive species where you live, be very wary of planting this aggressive groundcover. If you do decide to plant, keep it in check by providing it only minimal water and fertilizer. With ample amounts of either, it will truly take off and overwhelm you.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月30日
If “snakebush” makes you think of a long, scaly vine, you’re in for a surprise. According to snakebush plant information, this lovely little plant offers delicate mauve flowers that look wonderful in hanging baskets. So exactly what is a snakebush? Read on for tips on growing snakebush plants.
What is a Snakebush Plant?
Native to Western Australia, snakebush bears the scientific name of Hemiandra pungens, and it’s also known as the snake plant. But the only thing snake-like about it is how it stays very close to the ground. Snakebush plant information tells you that this tiny plant offers dense, pointed foliage that looks like needles. Its mauve or light purple flowers arrive in spring and last much of the summer. The flowers grow in tube shapes. Each blossoms has an upper “lip” with two lobes and a lower “lip” with three and carry a sweet fragrance.
Growing Snakebush Plants
Since snakebush is dense, and prostrate, it makes an excellent ground cover. Snakebush ground cover has the added advantage of being drought resistant when mature. You’ll need a sunny location to make this plant happy. Growing snakebush plants is easier in well-drained soil, but the plants will also survive in sites with poor drainage. On the other hand, you may have a hard time finding the seeds in commerce. You can grow snakebush by taking cuttings from a friend’s garden. Growing snakebush is fairly easy from cuttings.
Care of Snakebush
Once you’re able to acquire the snakebush, you’ll find that you won’t have much to do if you plant it in the right location. It is both drought and frost tolerant. Snakebush ground cover accepts temperatures down to 25 degrees Fahrenheit (-4 C.) without any damage. You’ll have a better experience growing snakebush plants if you live in a dry climate. Those gardeners in regions with hot, wet summer will have the hardest time. Care of snakebush plants in humid areas is difficult and the species cannot be grown reliably.
It works well as part of a low-maintenance backyard, beside the swimming pool or a courtyard garden. If you are putting in a cottage or flower garden, include snakebush in the mix.
What is a Snakebush Plant?
Native to Western Australia, snakebush bears the scientific name of Hemiandra pungens, and it’s also known as the snake plant. But the only thing snake-like about it is how it stays very close to the ground. Snakebush plant information tells you that this tiny plant offers dense, pointed foliage that looks like needles. Its mauve or light purple flowers arrive in spring and last much of the summer. The flowers grow in tube shapes. Each blossoms has an upper “lip” with two lobes and a lower “lip” with three and carry a sweet fragrance.
Growing Snakebush Plants
Since snakebush is dense, and prostrate, it makes an excellent ground cover. Snakebush ground cover has the added advantage of being drought resistant when mature. You’ll need a sunny location to make this plant happy. Growing snakebush plants is easier in well-drained soil, but the plants will also survive in sites with poor drainage. On the other hand, you may have a hard time finding the seeds in commerce. You can grow snakebush by taking cuttings from a friend’s garden. Growing snakebush is fairly easy from cuttings.
Care of Snakebush
Once you’re able to acquire the snakebush, you’ll find that you won’t have much to do if you plant it in the right location. It is both drought and frost tolerant. Snakebush ground cover accepts temperatures down to 25 degrees Fahrenheit (-4 C.) without any damage. You’ll have a better experience growing snakebush plants if you live in a dry climate. Those gardeners in regions with hot, wet summer will have the hardest time. Care of snakebush plants in humid areas is difficult and the species cannot be grown reliably.
It works well as part of a low-maintenance backyard, beside the swimming pool or a courtyard garden. If you are putting in a cottage or flower garden, include snakebush in the mix.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月30日
Rock cress is an herbaceous perennial and member of the Brassicaceae or mustard family. The flowers and leaves of rock cress are edible. Growing rock cress requires no special skill and this plant is well suited for the novice gardener. Rock cress has many uses in the garden but its most popular uses are as an attractive border in a rock garden or dangling down over a rock wall or ledge. Rock cresses are alpine plants and will thrive where other plants fail, such as on hills and slopes.
Purple rock cress ground cover (Aubrieta deltoidea) hugs the ground like a mat and displays rich purple flowers in April through the middle of May and has a lovely scent. Rock wall cress (Arabis caucasica) is more likely to bloom in white or pink. Both make attractive low mounds that look great at the edge of retaining wall where they get full sun and excellent drainage.
How to Grow Rock Cress
Rock cress plants are hardy in USDA plant hardiness zones 4-7. They are easily grown from seed and can be directly sown into the garden in early spring or started indoors four to six weeks before the date of your last expected frost. Rock cress prefers full sun but will tolerate some shade, especially in warmer climates. Space rock cress plants 15 to 18 inches apart and they will fill in quickly forming a mat in any open space.
Care of Rock Cress Plants
Regardless of the type you choose to grow, the care of rock cress plants is relatively minimal. Water new rock cress plants regularly and only when the soil is dry once they are established. Rock cress ground cover does well in fair soil that has good drainage, and is slightly acidic. Applying a light pine needle mulch helps retain moisture and increase acidity. A high nitrogen fertilizer can be applied when first planting and a phosphorus fertilizer just after blooming. Rock cress will bloom the second spring after planting and every year after that. Regular pruning to remove dead flowers will keep the plant healthy and encourage new growth.
It is seldom necessary to treat rock cress for pests or disease. Now that you know the basics on how to grow rock cress ground cover, you can add an attractive touch to a rock garden or wall
Purple rock cress ground cover (Aubrieta deltoidea) hugs the ground like a mat and displays rich purple flowers in April through the middle of May and has a lovely scent. Rock wall cress (Arabis caucasica) is more likely to bloom in white or pink. Both make attractive low mounds that look great at the edge of retaining wall where they get full sun and excellent drainage.
How to Grow Rock Cress
Rock cress plants are hardy in USDA plant hardiness zones 4-7. They are easily grown from seed and can be directly sown into the garden in early spring or started indoors four to six weeks before the date of your last expected frost. Rock cress prefers full sun but will tolerate some shade, especially in warmer climates. Space rock cress plants 15 to 18 inches apart and they will fill in quickly forming a mat in any open space.
Care of Rock Cress Plants
Regardless of the type you choose to grow, the care of rock cress plants is relatively minimal. Water new rock cress plants regularly and only when the soil is dry once they are established. Rock cress ground cover does well in fair soil that has good drainage, and is slightly acidic. Applying a light pine needle mulch helps retain moisture and increase acidity. A high nitrogen fertilizer can be applied when first planting and a phosphorus fertilizer just after blooming. Rock cress will bloom the second spring after planting and every year after that. Regular pruning to remove dead flowers will keep the plant healthy and encourage new growth.
It is seldom necessary to treat rock cress for pests or disease. Now that you know the basics on how to grow rock cress ground cover, you can add an attractive touch to a rock garden or wall
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月30日
Gardeners looking for a perennial evergreen ground cover couldn’t find a better choice than Antennaria pussytoes. Lush carpets of gray-green leaves followed by sprightly little “cats paws” of pussytoes flowers lend charm and ease of care to the dry, nutrient poor regions of the landscape. Fast growing and readily available, planting pussytoes seeds provides an attractive foil to pathways, rock gardens and even xeriscape zones.
Antennaria Pussytoes Attributes
Cat lovers will swoon with delight over pussytoes flower. Pussytoes ground cover is remarkably resistant to disease and pests, including deer and rabbits. It is also an attractor for pollinating insects and a host for the American Lady butterflies. Learn how to grow pussytoes plant for season after season of fool proof texture and greenery.
Native plants are always a good choice for the landscape. This is because they are already adapted and hardy to the region and offer no fuss beauty and vigorous growth. Pussytoes ground cover is native to the western United States and Canada. It forms wide clumps over time and colonizes quickly.
The tiny gray-haired leaves are stacked up on top of each other on slender herbaceous stalks that grow no more than 6 inches tall. In spring, the charming downy flowers appear. Blooms are white to pink fuzzy clusters resembling cat feet. Some of the species to select are:
Rosy
Scented
Pearly
Wooly Pussytoes
How to Grow Pussytoes Plant
Site selection is the first consideration for growing pussytoes. Choose a location in full sun with well-draining soil. The plant is hardy to United States Department of Agriculture zones 3 through 9. In cooler regions, the basal leaves tend to die back a bit but will re-sprout in spring. In its native habitat, it occurs in meadows, hills, open woods and dry pastures. The only condition pussytoes cannot tolerate is wet, poorly drained soil. Antennaria pussytoes can be propagated by seed, division or cuttings. It is remarkably drought tolerant once established but supplemental water for seedlings is a must. Beds and borders, rock gardens and walls are all excellent places to display the draping beauty of this plant.
Planting Pussytoes Seeds
Sow seeds in an open frame in spring or fall. You may also opt to start the seed indoors in flats and transplant seedlings outdoors once they have 3 sets of true leaves. Seed starting mixtures or garden soil are adequate for sowing. Mist seedlings to keep the top few inches of the soil moist but not soggy. Transplant the seedlings after all danger of frost has passed and once they have hardened off. The biggest problems with this plant are generally related to excess moisture and fungal disease. Allow the top surface of the soil to dry out completely before irrigation. Pussytoes does not need supplemental fertilization. Maintenance may include cutting off the spent spring blooms just before summer to promote a tidier appearance and denser foliage.
Divide plants in spring to prevent die back in the center of the clump and produce more of these charming little plants.
Antennaria Pussytoes Attributes
Cat lovers will swoon with delight over pussytoes flower. Pussytoes ground cover is remarkably resistant to disease and pests, including deer and rabbits. It is also an attractor for pollinating insects and a host for the American Lady butterflies. Learn how to grow pussytoes plant for season after season of fool proof texture and greenery.
Native plants are always a good choice for the landscape. This is because they are already adapted and hardy to the region and offer no fuss beauty and vigorous growth. Pussytoes ground cover is native to the western United States and Canada. It forms wide clumps over time and colonizes quickly.
The tiny gray-haired leaves are stacked up on top of each other on slender herbaceous stalks that grow no more than 6 inches tall. In spring, the charming downy flowers appear. Blooms are white to pink fuzzy clusters resembling cat feet. Some of the species to select are:
Rosy
Scented
Pearly
Wooly Pussytoes
How to Grow Pussytoes Plant
Site selection is the first consideration for growing pussytoes. Choose a location in full sun with well-draining soil. The plant is hardy to United States Department of Agriculture zones 3 through 9. In cooler regions, the basal leaves tend to die back a bit but will re-sprout in spring. In its native habitat, it occurs in meadows, hills, open woods and dry pastures. The only condition pussytoes cannot tolerate is wet, poorly drained soil. Antennaria pussytoes can be propagated by seed, division or cuttings. It is remarkably drought tolerant once established but supplemental water for seedlings is a must. Beds and borders, rock gardens and walls are all excellent places to display the draping beauty of this plant.
Planting Pussytoes Seeds
Sow seeds in an open frame in spring or fall. You may also opt to start the seed indoors in flats and transplant seedlings outdoors once they have 3 sets of true leaves. Seed starting mixtures or garden soil are adequate for sowing. Mist seedlings to keep the top few inches of the soil moist but not soggy. Transplant the seedlings after all danger of frost has passed and once they have hardened off. The biggest problems with this plant are generally related to excess moisture and fungal disease. Allow the top surface of the soil to dry out completely before irrigation. Pussytoes does not need supplemental fertilization. Maintenance may include cutting off the spent spring blooms just before summer to promote a tidier appearance and denser foliage.
Divide plants in spring to prevent die back in the center of the clump and produce more of these charming little plants.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月30日
The partridgeberry (Mitchella repens) is used for ornamental purposes in gardens today, but in the past, uses of partridgeberry included food and medicine. It is an evergreen creeper vine that produces pairs of white flowers, later evolving into bright red berries. Since this plant is a prostrate vine, it’s easy to use it for ground cover. Read on for other partridgeberry facts and uses of partridgeberry in landscapes.
Partridgeberry Facts
Partridgeberry information tells us that the vine is native to North America. It grows in the wild from Newfoundland to Minnesota and south to Florida and Texas.
Partridgeberry might have more common names than any other vine, however, so you may know the plant by another name. The vine is also called squaw vine, deerberry, checkerberry, running box, winter clover, one berry and twinberry. The name partridgeberry came from the belief in Europe that the berries were eaten by partridges.
The partridgeberry vine forms large mats in the area they are planted, branching and putting down roots at the nodes. Each stem can be up to a foot long. The flowers produced by the vine bloom in early summer. They are tubular with four petals, varying in size from 4 to 12 inches. The flowers grow in groups of two, and when they are fertilized, the ovaries of the twin flowers meld to form one fruit. The red berries remain on the plant all winter long, even for an entire year if left alone. However, they are usually consumed by wild birds like partridge, bobwhites and wild turkeys. Larger mammals eat them too, including foxes, skunks, and white-footed mice. While they are edible for humans, the berries don’t have much taste.
Growing Partridgeberries
If you decide to start growing partridgeberries, you need to find a site with well-draining soil rich in humus. The vine prefers sandy soil that is neither acidic nor alkaline. Plant the vines in an area with morning sun but afternoon shade. Partridgeberry plants establish slowly but surely, eventually forming partridgeberry ground cover. The plant is rarely attacked by pests or troubled by diseases, which makes caring for partridgeberry plants a snap. Essentially, caring for partridgeberry plant once it’s established only involves removing garden debris from the mat. If you want to propagate partridgeberry, dig up a section of established plants and transfer it to a new area. This works well since the vine typically roots from nodes.
Uses of Partridgeberry
Gardeners love growing partridgeberry in winter gardens. During the cold winter days, partridgeberry ground cover is a delight, with its dark-green foliage and scattered blood-red berries. The birds welcome the berries too.
Partridgeberry Facts
Partridgeberry information tells us that the vine is native to North America. It grows in the wild from Newfoundland to Minnesota and south to Florida and Texas.
Partridgeberry might have more common names than any other vine, however, so you may know the plant by another name. The vine is also called squaw vine, deerberry, checkerberry, running box, winter clover, one berry and twinberry. The name partridgeberry came from the belief in Europe that the berries were eaten by partridges.
The partridgeberry vine forms large mats in the area they are planted, branching and putting down roots at the nodes. Each stem can be up to a foot long. The flowers produced by the vine bloom in early summer. They are tubular with four petals, varying in size from 4 to 12 inches. The flowers grow in groups of two, and when they are fertilized, the ovaries of the twin flowers meld to form one fruit. The red berries remain on the plant all winter long, even for an entire year if left alone. However, they are usually consumed by wild birds like partridge, bobwhites and wild turkeys. Larger mammals eat them too, including foxes, skunks, and white-footed mice. While they are edible for humans, the berries don’t have much taste.
Growing Partridgeberries
If you decide to start growing partridgeberries, you need to find a site with well-draining soil rich in humus. The vine prefers sandy soil that is neither acidic nor alkaline. Plant the vines in an area with morning sun but afternoon shade. Partridgeberry plants establish slowly but surely, eventually forming partridgeberry ground cover. The plant is rarely attacked by pests or troubled by diseases, which makes caring for partridgeberry plants a snap. Essentially, caring for partridgeberry plant once it’s established only involves removing garden debris from the mat. If you want to propagate partridgeberry, dig up a section of established plants and transfer it to a new area. This works well since the vine typically roots from nodes.
Uses of Partridgeberry
Gardeners love growing partridgeberry in winter gardens. During the cold winter days, partridgeberry ground cover is a delight, with its dark-green foliage and scattered blood-red berries. The birds welcome the berries too.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月30日
Mazus ground cover is a very tiny perennial plant, growing only two inches tall. It forms a dense mat of foliage that stays green throughout spring and summer, and well into fall. In the summer, it is dotted with tiny blue flowers. Learn to grow mazus in this article.
Mazus Reptans Information
Mazus (Mazus reptans) spreads quickly by means of creeping stems that take root where they touch the ground. Even though the plants spread aggressively to fill in bare spots, they aren’t considered invasive because they don’t become a problem in wild areas.
Native to Asia, Mazus reptans is a tiny perennial that can make a big impact in the landscape. It’s the perfect, quick-growing groundcover for small areas. Plant it at the rate of six plants per square yard for the fastest coverage. You can also grow it in shaped patches with the aid of barriers to stop the spread. Mazus grows well in rock gardens and in the gaps between the rocks in a rock wall. It tolerates light foot traffic so you can plant it in between stepping stones too.
Mazus Reptans Care
Creeping mazus plants need a location in full sun or partial shade. It tolerates moderate to high moisture levels, but the roots shouldn’t stand in water. It can live in soil with low fertility, but the ideal location has fertile, loamy soil. It is suitable for U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 5 through 7 or 8. To grow mazus where you now have a lawn, first remove the grass. Mazus will not outcompete lawn grass, so you need to make sure you take up all the grass and get as much of the roots as possible. You can do this with a flat shovel that has a fairly sharp edge.
Mazus may not require annual fertilization. This is especially true if the soil is rich. Spring is the best time to fertilize the plants if necessary, however. Apply 1 to 1.5 pounds of 12-12-12 fertilizer per 100 square feet. Rinse the leaves thoroughly after applying fertilizer to prevent leaf burn. Growing Mazus reptans is made easy by the fact that it seldom suffers from disease or insect infestation.
Mazus Reptans Information
Mazus (Mazus reptans) spreads quickly by means of creeping stems that take root where they touch the ground. Even though the plants spread aggressively to fill in bare spots, they aren’t considered invasive because they don’t become a problem in wild areas.
Native to Asia, Mazus reptans is a tiny perennial that can make a big impact in the landscape. It’s the perfect, quick-growing groundcover for small areas. Plant it at the rate of six plants per square yard for the fastest coverage. You can also grow it in shaped patches with the aid of barriers to stop the spread. Mazus grows well in rock gardens and in the gaps between the rocks in a rock wall. It tolerates light foot traffic so you can plant it in between stepping stones too.
Mazus Reptans Care
Creeping mazus plants need a location in full sun or partial shade. It tolerates moderate to high moisture levels, but the roots shouldn’t stand in water. It can live in soil with low fertility, but the ideal location has fertile, loamy soil. It is suitable for U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 5 through 7 or 8. To grow mazus where you now have a lawn, first remove the grass. Mazus will not outcompete lawn grass, so you need to make sure you take up all the grass and get as much of the roots as possible. You can do this with a flat shovel that has a fairly sharp edge.
Mazus may not require annual fertilization. This is especially true if the soil is rich. Spring is the best time to fertilize the plants if necessary, however. Apply 1 to 1.5 pounds of 12-12-12 fertilizer per 100 square feet. Rinse the leaves thoroughly after applying fertilizer to prevent leaf burn. Growing Mazus reptans is made easy by the fact that it seldom suffers from disease or insect infestation.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月30日
Trees make attractive focal points in any landscaping design, but the ground around their trunks can often be a problem. Grass might have a hard time growing around roots and the shade a tree offers can discourage even the hardiest of flowers. Instead of leaving the circle around your tree a line of bare earth, why not install a ring of attractive ground cover? These plants thrive on neglect, requiring less sunlight and moisture than most other garden plants. Surround your trees with circles of ground cover and you’ll give your landscape a professional, finished look.
Ground Cover Plants
Choose your ground cover plants according to the trees around which they’ll live. Some trees, like the Norway maple, have very thick coverage and offer almost no sunlight underneath. Others have sparser branches and smaller leaves, giving you more options to choose from. Find out how large each plant type will eventually spread to determine how many plants you will need to cover the entire area around the tree.
Some good choices for ground cover plants under trees include:
Ajuga
Lungwort
Foamflower
Creeping juniper
Liriope and monkey grass
Periwinkle
Pachysandra
Wild violets
Tips for Planting Ground Covers under a Tree
Like any other part of the landscape you install, planting ground covers under a tree starts with preparing the planting spot. You can plant ground coverage for trees at any time of the year, but early in the spring and later in the fall are the best. Mark a circle around the grass at the base of the tree to indicate the size of your proposed bed. Lay a hose on the ground to indicate the size of the bed, or mark the grass with spray paint. Dig the soil inside the circle and remove all the grass and weeds growing inside.
Use a trowel to dig individual holes for planting the ground cover plants. Stagger the holes instead of digging them in a grid design, for the best eventual coverage. Drop a handful of all-purpose fertilizer in each hole before placing the plants in place. Leave enough room between plants to allow them to fill in the spaces when full grown. Lay a layer of bark or other organic mulch in between the plants to help retain moisture and to shade out any emerging roots.
Water the plants once a week until they begin spreading and have established themselves. At this point, natural rainfall should provide all the water your ground cover under trees should need, except in extremely dry period of drought.
Ground Cover Plants
Choose your ground cover plants according to the trees around which they’ll live. Some trees, like the Norway maple, have very thick coverage and offer almost no sunlight underneath. Others have sparser branches and smaller leaves, giving you more options to choose from. Find out how large each plant type will eventually spread to determine how many plants you will need to cover the entire area around the tree.
Some good choices for ground cover plants under trees include:
Ajuga
Lungwort
Foamflower
Creeping juniper
Liriope and monkey grass
Periwinkle
Pachysandra
Wild violets
Tips for Planting Ground Covers under a Tree
Like any other part of the landscape you install, planting ground covers under a tree starts with preparing the planting spot. You can plant ground coverage for trees at any time of the year, but early in the spring and later in the fall are the best. Mark a circle around the grass at the base of the tree to indicate the size of your proposed bed. Lay a hose on the ground to indicate the size of the bed, or mark the grass with spray paint. Dig the soil inside the circle and remove all the grass and weeds growing inside.
Use a trowel to dig individual holes for planting the ground cover plants. Stagger the holes instead of digging them in a grid design, for the best eventual coverage. Drop a handful of all-purpose fertilizer in each hole before placing the plants in place. Leave enough room between plants to allow them to fill in the spaces when full grown. Lay a layer of bark or other organic mulch in between the plants to help retain moisture and to shade out any emerging roots.
Water the plants once a week until they begin spreading and have established themselves. At this point, natural rainfall should provide all the water your ground cover under trees should need, except in extremely dry period of drought.
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