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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月26日
Swamp mallow (Hibiscus moscheutos), also known as rose mallow hibiscus or swamp hibiscus, is a shrubby, moisture loving plant in the hibiscus family that provides big, showy flowers from mid-summer to autumn. The plant performs well along pond edges or other damp areas. This stunning, low-maintenance plant is available in a range of colors, including pink, peach, white, red, lavender and bi-color varieties.
How to Grow Rose Mallow
The easiest way to grow rose mallow is to purchase a plant at a garden center or nursery. However, growing rose mallow by seed isn’t difficult. Start seeds indoors eight to 10 weeks before the last frost in your area, or plant seeds directly in the garden after the last killing frost in spring.
Rose mallow benefits from rich soil amended with at least 2 or 3 inches of compost, manure or other organic material. Locate the plant in full sunlight. Although rose mallow tolerates partial shade, too much shade may result in leggy plants that are more susceptible to insect infestations. Allow at least 36 inches of growing space between each plant. Crowding the plant inhibits air circulation which may result in leaf spots, rust or other diseases.
Swamp Hibiscus Care
Swamp hibiscus plants are water-loving plants that will stop blooming in dry soil. However, the plant, which dies and enters a dormant period in winter, shouldn’t be watered until it displays new growth in spring. Once the plant is actively growing, it needs a deep watering two or three times per week during warm weather. Water is especially important during the first growing season, but the plant should always be watered immediately if it shows signs of wilt.
Feed rose mallow every six to eight weeks during the growing season, using a balanced, water-soluble plant fertilizer. Alternatively, use a slow-release fertilizer after the plant breaks dormancy in spring. Spread 2 or 3 inches of mulch around the plant to keep the roots moist and cool, and to keep weeds in check. Spray swamp mallow with insecticidal soap spray if the plant is damaged by pests such as aphids, whiteflies or scale.
How to Grow Rose Mallow
The easiest way to grow rose mallow is to purchase a plant at a garden center or nursery. However, growing rose mallow by seed isn’t difficult. Start seeds indoors eight to 10 weeks before the last frost in your area, or plant seeds directly in the garden after the last killing frost in spring.
Rose mallow benefits from rich soil amended with at least 2 or 3 inches of compost, manure or other organic material. Locate the plant in full sunlight. Although rose mallow tolerates partial shade, too much shade may result in leggy plants that are more susceptible to insect infestations. Allow at least 36 inches of growing space between each plant. Crowding the plant inhibits air circulation which may result in leaf spots, rust or other diseases.
Swamp Hibiscus Care
Swamp hibiscus plants are water-loving plants that will stop blooming in dry soil. However, the plant, which dies and enters a dormant period in winter, shouldn’t be watered until it displays new growth in spring. Once the plant is actively growing, it needs a deep watering two or three times per week during warm weather. Water is especially important during the first growing season, but the plant should always be watered immediately if it shows signs of wilt.
Feed rose mallow every six to eight weeks during the growing season, using a balanced, water-soluble plant fertilizer. Alternatively, use a slow-release fertilizer after the plant breaks dormancy in spring. Spread 2 or 3 inches of mulch around the plant to keep the roots moist and cool, and to keep weeds in check. Spray swamp mallow with insecticidal soap spray if the plant is damaged by pests such as aphids, whiteflies or scale.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月26日
Pickerel rush (Pontederia cordata) is a native North American plant with a wide zone range in USDA plant hardiness zones 3 to 10. The plant may become invasive due to a rhizomous rooting system, but it is an attractive plant that bears blue spiked flowers from early summer well into fall. Pickerel rush care is easy and the tenacious plant is an unusual addition to riparian zones and along home ponds. Few tips are necessary to learn how to grow pickerel rush, but this semi-aquatic plant is worth a try if you plant it in a submerged pot to prevent unwanted spreading.
About Pickerelweed Plants
Pickerelweed plants are rushes that are closely related to grasses. The plants are in the family Pontederia, named after an 18th century botany professor. These plants grow in clumps with thick to flat stems. The foliage is glossy and dark green with a heart-shaped leaf and grows 24 to 30 inches high. Stems on mature plants arch gracefully on water grown plants. The flower spires are a deep to soft blue and rise several inches above the body of the rush. Decorative and useful plants for around the home water feature should include pickerel rush for ponds because of its ease of care and hardiness. When the plant is partially submerged, the floating leaves provide important shade to prevent excess algae growth. They also form a network of foliage in which fish can hide.
How to Grow Pickerel Rush
You can share new starts of the plant with friends easily. Divide the rhizomes in late winter to early spring. Simply dig up the plant or remove it from its pot. Use a clean sharp soil knife or pruners to cut apart the roots, leaving each piece with several healthy leaves and thick rhizomes. Replant the new clumps and they will take off quickly, increasing your pickerel weed inventory. You can also save and dry the seeds from the plant to start inside in flats in late winter. Seeded plants can take several seasons to produce the bright flowers. Caring for pickerelweeds once the seeds have germinated just requires consistent moisture and bright sunlight. Plant outside in spring.
Pickerel Rush Care
Negligence is the word of the day in caring for pickerelweed plants. These unfussy little rushes can tolerate almost anything except full shade and drought. Pickerels should be kept in deep pots where the roots can remain moist. You can also submerge the entire pot and just let the broad leaves float out around the plant. Pickerel rush for ponds performs best when soils are heavy and rich. Loamy soils with moderate to slightly acidic pH create the best growing conditions for the plant. Pickerelweed plants that are grown in pots thrive in potting mix blended with a good quality topsoil and peat.
About Pickerelweed Plants
Pickerelweed plants are rushes that are closely related to grasses. The plants are in the family Pontederia, named after an 18th century botany professor. These plants grow in clumps with thick to flat stems. The foliage is glossy and dark green with a heart-shaped leaf and grows 24 to 30 inches high. Stems on mature plants arch gracefully on water grown plants. The flower spires are a deep to soft blue and rise several inches above the body of the rush. Decorative and useful plants for around the home water feature should include pickerel rush for ponds because of its ease of care and hardiness. When the plant is partially submerged, the floating leaves provide important shade to prevent excess algae growth. They also form a network of foliage in which fish can hide.
How to Grow Pickerel Rush
You can share new starts of the plant with friends easily. Divide the rhizomes in late winter to early spring. Simply dig up the plant or remove it from its pot. Use a clean sharp soil knife or pruners to cut apart the roots, leaving each piece with several healthy leaves and thick rhizomes. Replant the new clumps and they will take off quickly, increasing your pickerel weed inventory. You can also save and dry the seeds from the plant to start inside in flats in late winter. Seeded plants can take several seasons to produce the bright flowers. Caring for pickerelweeds once the seeds have germinated just requires consistent moisture and bright sunlight. Plant outside in spring.
Pickerel Rush Care
Negligence is the word of the day in caring for pickerelweed plants. These unfussy little rushes can tolerate almost anything except full shade and drought. Pickerels should be kept in deep pots where the roots can remain moist. You can also submerge the entire pot and just let the broad leaves float out around the plant. Pickerel rush for ponds performs best when soils are heavy and rich. Loamy soils with moderate to slightly acidic pH create the best growing conditions for the plant. Pickerelweed plants that are grown in pots thrive in potting mix blended with a good quality topsoil and peat.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月26日
Catmint is an aromatic herb that is commonly grown in the garden. It produces clusters of lavender-blue flowers amid mounds of gray-green foliage. This easily grown plant has an interesting history regarding its various uses in the landscape. For example, the herb is thought to have been first cultivated in the Roman town of Nepeti, where it was used as herbal tea and insect repellent. This is also believed to be the origin of its genus name, Nepeta.
Difference Between Catnip and Catmint
Many people wonder what is the difference between catnip and catmint. While basically considered the same plant that shares many of the same characteristics, there are differences between the two species. Catnip (Nepeta cataria) has less ornamental value in the garden than its catmint (Nepeta mussinii) counterpart. Catnip is also found to be highly attractive to cats, with many of them exhibiting a naturally induced euphoria around the plant. They may nibble on it or even roll around in the foliage. This type is most suitable for “cat friendly” gardens. If you don’t want your garden overrun with felines, plant catmint instead, which is much less attractive to them.
How to Grow Catmint
Catmint herb is easy to grow. These plants are good for mass planting or edging and are suitable near vegetables as an insect deterrent—especially aphids and Japanese beetles. Catmint can be grown in sun or partial shade with average, well-draining soil. They are even heat and drought tolerant, making them excellent plants for dry garden areas. Catmint is most often grown by seed or through division.
How & When to Plant Catmint
The seeds or divisions of catmint plant are planted in spring. They require plenty of space too and should be spaced (or thinned) to at least a foot or so apart. Overcrowded plants can lead to powdery mildew or leaf spot, especially in hot, humid climates. Caution is needed when planting some types of catmint plants, as they can be aggressive growers. Therefore, you may want to add some edging around them. Likewise, catmint can be planted and grown in containers.
Care of Catmint
Basic care of catmint is easy. Water catmint plants regularly until they become well established. Mulch will help retain moisture and keep down weeds. Once plants are a few inches tall, pinch them back to promote bushier growth. Catmint blooms throughout summer and fall. Deadheading spent blooms promotes additional flowering. It can also help prevent reseeding. Faassen’s catmint (Nepeta x faassenii) is sterile however, and doesn’t require deadheading. Shear the plants back to half their size in fall or following harvest.
Harvesting and Uses of Catmint Herb
Catmint can be used fresh, dried, or frozen for both culinary and herbal use. Harvest leaves as flowers begin to bloom, cutting top leaves, stems, and flowers if desired. Spread out to dry in a cool, ventilated area and store the dried herb in an airtight container or bag to preserve its potency. The leaves and shoots can be added to soups and sauces. Tea made from the leaves and flowers can be used for calming nerves and relieving coughs, congestion, and menstrual cramps.
Difference Between Catnip and Catmint
Many people wonder what is the difference between catnip and catmint. While basically considered the same plant that shares many of the same characteristics, there are differences between the two species. Catnip (Nepeta cataria) has less ornamental value in the garden than its catmint (Nepeta mussinii) counterpart. Catnip is also found to be highly attractive to cats, with many of them exhibiting a naturally induced euphoria around the plant. They may nibble on it or even roll around in the foliage. This type is most suitable for “cat friendly” gardens. If you don’t want your garden overrun with felines, plant catmint instead, which is much less attractive to them.
How to Grow Catmint
Catmint herb is easy to grow. These plants are good for mass planting or edging and are suitable near vegetables as an insect deterrent—especially aphids and Japanese beetles. Catmint can be grown in sun or partial shade with average, well-draining soil. They are even heat and drought tolerant, making them excellent plants for dry garden areas. Catmint is most often grown by seed or through division.
How & When to Plant Catmint
The seeds or divisions of catmint plant are planted in spring. They require plenty of space too and should be spaced (or thinned) to at least a foot or so apart. Overcrowded plants can lead to powdery mildew or leaf spot, especially in hot, humid climates. Caution is needed when planting some types of catmint plants, as they can be aggressive growers. Therefore, you may want to add some edging around them. Likewise, catmint can be planted and grown in containers.
Care of Catmint
Basic care of catmint is easy. Water catmint plants regularly until they become well established. Mulch will help retain moisture and keep down weeds. Once plants are a few inches tall, pinch them back to promote bushier growth. Catmint blooms throughout summer and fall. Deadheading spent blooms promotes additional flowering. It can also help prevent reseeding. Faassen’s catmint (Nepeta x faassenii) is sterile however, and doesn’t require deadheading. Shear the plants back to half their size in fall or following harvest.
Harvesting and Uses of Catmint Herb
Catmint can be used fresh, dried, or frozen for both culinary and herbal use. Harvest leaves as flowers begin to bloom, cutting top leaves, stems, and flowers if desired. Spread out to dry in a cool, ventilated area and store the dried herb in an airtight container or bag to preserve its potency. The leaves and shoots can be added to soups and sauces. Tea made from the leaves and flowers can be used for calming nerves and relieving coughs, congestion, and menstrual cramps.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月26日
“Attar” is a word used to describe any perfume extracted from flowers. Scented attar of roses, extracted from the blooms of roses, was highly desired and very expensive during the Victorian era, which is understandable when you consider it takes 150 pounds of rose blossoms to make a single ounce of fragrance. Thus, geranium attar of rose became an inexpensive substitute for the real thing.
Growing Geranium Attar of Rose
Attar of rose geraniums (Pelargonium capitatum ‘Attar of Roses’) and other scented geraniums were initially introduced to Europe by way of South Africa. The plants grew in popularity in the United States and became trendy by the 1800s, but as fancy Victorian styles fell out of fashion, so did ruffly attar of rose geraniums. Today, attar of rose scented geraniums have regained a following among gardeners who appreciate them for their attractive foliage and sweet scent. They are considered an heirloom plant.
Attar of rose scented geraniums are easy to grow in the warm climates of USDA plant hardiness zones 10 and 11. The plants are lovely in flower beds, patio containers or hanging baskets. Geranium attar of rose grows in full sun or partial shade, although the plant benefits from afternoon shade in hot climates. Plant these scented geraniums in average, well-drained soil. Avoid rich soil, which may decrease the sweet aroma. Gardeners in cooler climates can grow geranium attar of rose indoors, where it remains beautiful all year round. Indoor plants benefit from a little shade in summer, but they need bright light throughout the winter months.
Caring for Attar of Rose Geraniums
Geranium attar of rose is a drought-tolerant plant that doesn’t tolerate soggy soil. Water only when the top inch of soil feels dry to the touch. Water indoor plants deeply, and then allow the pot to drain thoroughly. Fertilize plants every three to four weeks using a balanced, water-soluble fertilizer diluted to half strength. Alternatively, use a slow-release granular fertilizer early in the growing season. Be careful not to over-feed attar of rose geraniums, as too much fertilizer may minimize the scent of the blooms. Pinch the stem tips of young plants occasionally to produce bushier growth. Prune attar of rose geraniums if the plant begins to look long and leggy.
Growing Geranium Attar of Rose
Attar of rose geraniums (Pelargonium capitatum ‘Attar of Roses’) and other scented geraniums were initially introduced to Europe by way of South Africa. The plants grew in popularity in the United States and became trendy by the 1800s, but as fancy Victorian styles fell out of fashion, so did ruffly attar of rose geraniums. Today, attar of rose scented geraniums have regained a following among gardeners who appreciate them for their attractive foliage and sweet scent. They are considered an heirloom plant.
Attar of rose scented geraniums are easy to grow in the warm climates of USDA plant hardiness zones 10 and 11. The plants are lovely in flower beds, patio containers or hanging baskets. Geranium attar of rose grows in full sun or partial shade, although the plant benefits from afternoon shade in hot climates. Plant these scented geraniums in average, well-drained soil. Avoid rich soil, which may decrease the sweet aroma. Gardeners in cooler climates can grow geranium attar of rose indoors, where it remains beautiful all year round. Indoor plants benefit from a little shade in summer, but they need bright light throughout the winter months.
Caring for Attar of Rose Geraniums
Geranium attar of rose is a drought-tolerant plant that doesn’t tolerate soggy soil. Water only when the top inch of soil feels dry to the touch. Water indoor plants deeply, and then allow the pot to drain thoroughly. Fertilize plants every three to four weeks using a balanced, water-soluble fertilizer diluted to half strength. Alternatively, use a slow-release granular fertilizer early in the growing season. Be careful not to over-feed attar of rose geraniums, as too much fertilizer may minimize the scent of the blooms. Pinch the stem tips of young plants occasionally to produce bushier growth. Prune attar of rose geraniums if the plant begins to look long and leggy.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月26日
Scented geranium plants are a sensual delight in any home or garden. Their varied and textured leaves, the bright colors of their flowers, the scented oils they produce and the flavor they can add to food and drinks appeal to all five of our senses. How many other garden additions pack so much punch into one small plant?
About Scented Geraniums
Like their fellow hothouse cousins, scented geranium plants at not true geraniums at all, but members of the Pelargonium genus and are considered to be tender perennials. They are treated as annuals throughout most of Europe and the United States and their beauty is appreciated all over the world. It’s an added bonus that they are so easy to grow!
Scented geranium was originally found in Africa and brought back to Holland by early explorers. From Holland, the popular houseplant migrated to England in the 1600s. They were particularly favored during the Victorian era when the fragrant leaves were added to fingerbowls for guests to rinse their hands between courses at dinner. From those original African plants, horticulturalists have developed the wide variety of scented geranium plants we enjoy today. There are now over a hundred varieties with different shaped and textured leaves, flower colors and aromas. If you’re familiar with growing scented geraniums, you know that the varieties are first categorized by their scent. Mint, rose, citrus and chocolate — yes, that’s CHOCOLATE with no calories — are a few of the more popular scents available. Leaves of the scented geranium run the gamut from smoothly rounded to finely cut and lacy and from grey-green to dark. Their tiny flowers range from white to shades of lilac and pink to red, often combining colors.
Tips for Growing Scented Geraniums
Scented geranium care is pretty basic. You can grow them in pots, indoors or out, or in the ground. They prefer lots of sun, but may need some protection when the sun is at its strongest. They aren’t fussy about soil type though they don’t like wet feet. Fertilize them lightly and sparingly while they’re actively growing. Scented geranium’s biggest downside is they tend to get leggy and need to be trimmed back to promote bushiness. Over-fertilization will only increase this problem. Don’t throw those trimmings away, though. You can easily grow scented geranium from cuttings to replace older plants or to give as gifts to friends. You might want to line a sidewalk or path with plants grown from your cuttings. Whether in containers or in the ground, grow scented geraniums where they will be touched as the leaves need to be brushed or crushed to release the aromatic oils.
Before the first frost of fall, dig up your plants to bring indoors or take cuttings for winter growing. Scented geraniums do well indoors under the same conditions as out. Keep them in a sunny window, water regularly and fertilize very little. Scented geranium care is so easy both indoors and out, it’s a wonder every gardener doesn’t own at least one. They’re the perfect patio or balcony plant. Not only do they offer fragrant leaves, lovely flowers and exquisite scent; they’re edible! The leaves can be used to flavor teas, jellies, or baked goods and the aroma therapy is free for the taking. So never mind the roses. Stop and smell the scented geranium.
About Scented Geraniums
Like their fellow hothouse cousins, scented geranium plants at not true geraniums at all, but members of the Pelargonium genus and are considered to be tender perennials. They are treated as annuals throughout most of Europe and the United States and their beauty is appreciated all over the world. It’s an added bonus that they are so easy to grow!
Scented geranium was originally found in Africa and brought back to Holland by early explorers. From Holland, the popular houseplant migrated to England in the 1600s. They were particularly favored during the Victorian era when the fragrant leaves were added to fingerbowls for guests to rinse their hands between courses at dinner. From those original African plants, horticulturalists have developed the wide variety of scented geranium plants we enjoy today. There are now over a hundred varieties with different shaped and textured leaves, flower colors and aromas. If you’re familiar with growing scented geraniums, you know that the varieties are first categorized by their scent. Mint, rose, citrus and chocolate — yes, that’s CHOCOLATE with no calories — are a few of the more popular scents available. Leaves of the scented geranium run the gamut from smoothly rounded to finely cut and lacy and from grey-green to dark. Their tiny flowers range from white to shades of lilac and pink to red, often combining colors.
Tips for Growing Scented Geraniums
Scented geranium care is pretty basic. You can grow them in pots, indoors or out, or in the ground. They prefer lots of sun, but may need some protection when the sun is at its strongest. They aren’t fussy about soil type though they don’t like wet feet. Fertilize them lightly and sparingly while they’re actively growing. Scented geranium’s biggest downside is they tend to get leggy and need to be trimmed back to promote bushiness. Over-fertilization will only increase this problem. Don’t throw those trimmings away, though. You can easily grow scented geranium from cuttings to replace older plants or to give as gifts to friends. You might want to line a sidewalk or path with plants grown from your cuttings. Whether in containers or in the ground, grow scented geraniums where they will be touched as the leaves need to be brushed or crushed to release the aromatic oils.
Before the first frost of fall, dig up your plants to bring indoors or take cuttings for winter growing. Scented geraniums do well indoors under the same conditions as out. Keep them in a sunny window, water regularly and fertilize very little. Scented geranium care is so easy both indoors and out, it’s a wonder every gardener doesn’t own at least one. They’re the perfect patio or balcony plant. Not only do they offer fragrant leaves, lovely flowers and exquisite scent; they’re edible! The leaves can be used to flavor teas, jellies, or baked goods and the aroma therapy is free for the taking. So never mind the roses. Stop and smell the scented geranium.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月25日
Dill is an easy to grow herb cultivated for culinary purposes. While dill is an annual, it readily self-sows and will generally make a return the successive spring. Every part of dill, the stems, leaves, flowers and even the seeds are edible. So what special care does dill need, if any? Should you prune dill? If so, does it make for more bushy herb plants? Keep reading to find out if you should prune dill and, if so, how to trim a dill plant.
How to Make Dill Plants Bushy
Dill (Anethum graveolens), by nature, is delicate with lacy frond-like leaves that can grow up to 2-3 feet in height. For this reason, it may need staking, especially when planted alone in the garden. Groupings of dill plants, however, hold each other up and don’t require staking. If you have grown herbs before, then you are familiar with pinching them back, either as you use them in recipes or to pinch back flowers. You’re probably also familiar then with the fact that pinching back herbs often results in bushy herb plants. Does this work with dill? Is cutting back dill plants how to make dill plants bushy?
How to Trim a Dill Plant
You can grow your own dill by sowing the seeds straight into the garden after the last frost free date for your area. Cover the seeds with ¼ inch of soil. Because dill is such a feathery herb, it can be grown close together and, in fact, as mentioned above, will benefit from this mutual support. Don’t plant dill near its cousins fennel and coriander, as they will cross-pollinate, resulting in hybrid seeds that won’t have a true flavor. Dill attracts both ladybugs and lacewings, which at first you might not think is such a good thing. A plant that attracts insects? Ladybugs and lacewing larvae, however, like to eat aphids, so planting dill near your other herbs and veggies can act as a natural pesticide. Once dill is established, it is a fuss free plant. It has long roots, which minimizes the amount of watering you need to attend to. Also, dill needs no additional fertilizer. Keep the area around the dill free of weeds, especially during the first month of growth.
Otherwise, the only chore needed is cutting back the dill plants. There is no great mystery here; simply use kitchen shears to snip off the dill leaves and add them to your latest culinary creation. You can begin using dill a few weeks after seeding. Pinch out the top buds on the dill to keep the plant from getting too leggy or tall. This will make for a bushier plant by encouraging additional leaf growth. Collect dill seed after the plants have flowered and the blossoms are dry. Once the plant has gone to seed, it won’t produce any more leaves, which is another good reason to pinch the top buds and lengthen the harvesting season. Fresh dill can be stored in the refrigerator for up to 3 months. You can also dry the leaves and seeds and store them in an airtight container for several months. Dill leaves can be frozen too, but the flavor is much diminished.
How to Make Dill Plants Bushy
Dill (Anethum graveolens), by nature, is delicate with lacy frond-like leaves that can grow up to 2-3 feet in height. For this reason, it may need staking, especially when planted alone in the garden. Groupings of dill plants, however, hold each other up and don’t require staking. If you have grown herbs before, then you are familiar with pinching them back, either as you use them in recipes or to pinch back flowers. You’re probably also familiar then with the fact that pinching back herbs often results in bushy herb plants. Does this work with dill? Is cutting back dill plants how to make dill plants bushy?
How to Trim a Dill Plant
You can grow your own dill by sowing the seeds straight into the garden after the last frost free date for your area. Cover the seeds with ¼ inch of soil. Because dill is such a feathery herb, it can be grown close together and, in fact, as mentioned above, will benefit from this mutual support. Don’t plant dill near its cousins fennel and coriander, as they will cross-pollinate, resulting in hybrid seeds that won’t have a true flavor. Dill attracts both ladybugs and lacewings, which at first you might not think is such a good thing. A plant that attracts insects? Ladybugs and lacewing larvae, however, like to eat aphids, so planting dill near your other herbs and veggies can act as a natural pesticide. Once dill is established, it is a fuss free plant. It has long roots, which minimizes the amount of watering you need to attend to. Also, dill needs no additional fertilizer. Keep the area around the dill free of weeds, especially during the first month of growth.
Otherwise, the only chore needed is cutting back the dill plants. There is no great mystery here; simply use kitchen shears to snip off the dill leaves and add them to your latest culinary creation. You can begin using dill a few weeks after seeding. Pinch out the top buds on the dill to keep the plant from getting too leggy or tall. This will make for a bushier plant by encouraging additional leaf growth. Collect dill seed after the plants have flowered and the blossoms are dry. Once the plant has gone to seed, it won’t produce any more leaves, which is another good reason to pinch the top buds and lengthen the harvesting season. Fresh dill can be stored in the refrigerator for up to 3 months. You can also dry the leaves and seeds and store them in an airtight container for several months. Dill leaves can be frozen too, but the flavor is much diminished.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月25日
Dill is a great herb to have around. It has fragrant, delicate foliage, bright yellow flowers and a flavor like none other. But there are a few different varieties of dill, and it may not be easy to know which one to grow. Keep reading to learn more about dill weed varieties and the different types of dill plants.
Dill Plant Types
So what are some different varieties of dill? There aren’t too many varieties of dill, but here are some notable types:
Bouquet is probably the most popular variety, grown for its fragrant leaves and seeds that are used in both cooking and pickling.
Long Island and Mammoth are also both very popular, largely because they grow so tall. Both can reach five feet in height and are excellent for pickling.
Fernleaf is a common dwarf variety at the other end of the spectrum, topping out at around 18 inches in height. It’s especially popular grown in containers as well as cut and used in flower arrangements.
Dukat is another smaller one of the dill plant types that is good for container growing, a compact variety that is brighter green than its cousins. It’s especially popular in salads.
Superdukat is a cultivar that has more essential oil than Dukat.
Delikat has lots of very dense foliage, making it ideal for harvesting the leaves for cooking.
Vierling is a variety that takes longer to bolt than other varieties of dill, making it a good choice if you want to harvest leaves all summer long.
Hercules is another variety that takes a long time to flower, though its leaves are coarser than those of other types, which means it’s best to harvest when the plant is young and the leaves are the most tender.
Dill Plant Types
So what are some different varieties of dill? There aren’t too many varieties of dill, but here are some notable types:
Bouquet is probably the most popular variety, grown for its fragrant leaves and seeds that are used in both cooking and pickling.
Long Island and Mammoth are also both very popular, largely because they grow so tall. Both can reach five feet in height and are excellent for pickling.
Fernleaf is a common dwarf variety at the other end of the spectrum, topping out at around 18 inches in height. It’s especially popular grown in containers as well as cut and used in flower arrangements.
Dukat is another smaller one of the dill plant types that is good for container growing, a compact variety that is brighter green than its cousins. It’s especially popular in salads.
Superdukat is a cultivar that has more essential oil than Dukat.
Delikat has lots of very dense foliage, making it ideal for harvesting the leaves for cooking.
Vierling is a variety that takes longer to bolt than other varieties of dill, making it a good choice if you want to harvest leaves all summer long.
Hercules is another variety that takes a long time to flower, though its leaves are coarser than those of other types, which means it’s best to harvest when the plant is young and the leaves are the most tender.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月25日
Herbs are the perfect plants to grow in containers, and dill is no exception. It’s beautiful, it’s tasty, and in late summer it produces fantastic yellow flowers. Having it in a container near or even in your kitchen is a great way to ensure you get the most out of cooking with it. But how do you grow potted dill plants? Keep reading to learn more about growing dill in containers and care of dill in pots.
Potted Dill Plant Care
The most important thing to keep in mind when growing dill in containers is the depth of your containers. Dill grows a long tap root, and any container shallower than 12 inches won’t provide enough space for it. That being said, your container doesn’t need to be extremely deep. Dill is an annual, so it doesn’t need extra space to build up a big root system over the years. One to two feet deep should be plenty. You can sow dill seeds directly into your container. Fill it up with any soilless potting mix, making sure there are drainage holes in the bottom, first. Dill will grow in most types of soil, though it prefers well-drained, slightly acidic soil. Sprinkle a few seeds on the surface, then cover them with a very light layer of potting mix.
Potted dill plants need 6 to 8 hours of sunlight per day and warm temperatures above 60 degrees F. (15 C.) to sprout. If all danger of frost has passed, you can keep your potted dill plants outside, but if it’s still early spring, you should keep them indoors in a sunny window or under a grow light. Keep the soil moist by misting often. Once the seedlings are a few inches high, thin to one or two per pot and care for as you normally would out in the garden.
Potted Dill Plant Care
The most important thing to keep in mind when growing dill in containers is the depth of your containers. Dill grows a long tap root, and any container shallower than 12 inches won’t provide enough space for it. That being said, your container doesn’t need to be extremely deep. Dill is an annual, so it doesn’t need extra space to build up a big root system over the years. One to two feet deep should be plenty. You can sow dill seeds directly into your container. Fill it up with any soilless potting mix, making sure there are drainage holes in the bottom, first. Dill will grow in most types of soil, though it prefers well-drained, slightly acidic soil. Sprinkle a few seeds on the surface, then cover them with a very light layer of potting mix.
Potted dill plants need 6 to 8 hours of sunlight per day and warm temperatures above 60 degrees F. (15 C.) to sprout. If all danger of frost has passed, you can keep your potted dill plants outside, but if it’s still early spring, you should keep them indoors in a sunny window or under a grow light. Keep the soil moist by misting often. Once the seedlings are a few inches high, thin to one or two per pot and care for as you normally would out in the garden.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月25日
Cotton plants have flowers that resemble hibiscus and seed pods that you can use in dried arrangements. Your neighbors will ask about this attractive and unique garden plant, and they won’t believe it when you tell them what you’re growing. Find out how to sow cotton seeds in this article.
Cotton Seed Planting
Before you begin, you should know that it is illegal to grow cotton in your garden if you live in a state where it’s grown commercially. That’s because of the boll weevil eradication programs, which require the growers to use traps that the programs monitor. The eradication zone runs from Virginia to Texas and as far west as Missouri. Call your Cooperative Extension Service if you aren’t sure whether you are in the zone.
Cotton Seed Placement
Plant cotton seeds in a location with loose, rich soil where the plants will receive at least four or five hours of direct sunlight every day. You can grow it in a container, but the container must be at least 36 inches deep. It helps to work an inch or so of compost into the soil before planting. Putting them in the ground too soon slows germination. Wait until temperatures are consistently above 60 degrees F. (15 C.). It takes 65 to 75 days of temperatures above 60 degrees Fahrenheit for cotton to go from seed to flower. The plants need an additional 50 days after the flowers bloom for the seed pods to mature. Gardeners sowing cotton seeds in cool climates may find that they can bring the plants to flower, but don’t have enough time remaining to watch the seed pods mature.
How to Plant a Cotton Seed
Sow the seeds when the soil temperature is close to 60 degrees F. (15 C.) first thing in the morning for several consecutive days. If the soil is too cool, the seeds will rot. Plant the seeds in groups of 3, spacing them 4 inches apart. Cover them with about an inch of soil. Water the soil so that the moisture penetrates to a depth of at least six inches. You shouldn’t have to water again until seedlings emerge. Gardeners new to planting cotton may wonder which way to plant cotton seeds; in other words, which way is up or down. The root will emerge from the tip of the seed, but you don’t have to concern yourself with placing the seed in the soil just so. No matter how you plant it, the seed will sort itself out.
Cotton Seed Planting
Before you begin, you should know that it is illegal to grow cotton in your garden if you live in a state where it’s grown commercially. That’s because of the boll weevil eradication programs, which require the growers to use traps that the programs monitor. The eradication zone runs from Virginia to Texas and as far west as Missouri. Call your Cooperative Extension Service if you aren’t sure whether you are in the zone.
Cotton Seed Placement
Plant cotton seeds in a location with loose, rich soil where the plants will receive at least four or five hours of direct sunlight every day. You can grow it in a container, but the container must be at least 36 inches deep. It helps to work an inch or so of compost into the soil before planting. Putting them in the ground too soon slows germination. Wait until temperatures are consistently above 60 degrees F. (15 C.). It takes 65 to 75 days of temperatures above 60 degrees Fahrenheit for cotton to go from seed to flower. The plants need an additional 50 days after the flowers bloom for the seed pods to mature. Gardeners sowing cotton seeds in cool climates may find that they can bring the plants to flower, but don’t have enough time remaining to watch the seed pods mature.
How to Plant a Cotton Seed
Sow the seeds when the soil temperature is close to 60 degrees F. (15 C.) first thing in the morning for several consecutive days. If the soil is too cool, the seeds will rot. Plant the seeds in groups of 3, spacing them 4 inches apart. Cover them with about an inch of soil. Water the soil so that the moisture penetrates to a depth of at least six inches. You shouldn’t have to water again until seedlings emerge. Gardeners new to planting cotton may wonder which way to plant cotton seeds; in other words, which way is up or down. The root will emerge from the tip of the seed, but you don’t have to concern yourself with placing the seed in the soil just so. No matter how you plant it, the seed will sort itself out.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月25日
Chamomile is a fantastic herb to grow. Its foliage and flowers are bright, its fragrance is sweet, and the tea that can be brewed from the leaves is relaxing and easy to make. While it will thrive outdoors, chamomile will also grow very well indoors in a pot. Keep reading to learn more about how to grow chamomile indoors.
How to Grow Chamomile Indoors
One of the best things about growing chamomile indoors is that it can be planted in the winter. Requiring only four hours of light per day, your chamomile will be fine as long as it has a spot by a south-facing window. It will probably grow no higher than 10 inches (25 cm), but the plant will still be healthy and the flowers fragrant. Sow your chamomile seeds directly in the soil. You can start them in small seed starters and transplant them, or begin them in their ultimate pot. Choose a pot that’s at least 12 inches (30 cm) in diameter and has good drainage. Wet your potting soil so that it’s moist but not sodden, and press the seeds into the surface of the soil so that they’re still visible – chamomile seeds need light to germinate. The seeds will germinate best at a temperature of 68 F. (20 C.), so if your house is cold, place them on a heating mat or near a radiator. They should sprout in about two weeks. After they’ve developed their second set of true leaves, transplant them if they began in a seed starter or thin them to one every 2 inches (5 cm) if they began in a big pot.
Chamomile Care Indoors
Care of chamomile indoors is easy. The pot should be kept near a south-facing window. The soil should be kept moist but not overly wet; watering once per week should be enough. After 60 to 90 days, the plant should be ready to harvest for tea.
How to Grow Chamomile Indoors
One of the best things about growing chamomile indoors is that it can be planted in the winter. Requiring only four hours of light per day, your chamomile will be fine as long as it has a spot by a south-facing window. It will probably grow no higher than 10 inches (25 cm), but the plant will still be healthy and the flowers fragrant. Sow your chamomile seeds directly in the soil. You can start them in small seed starters and transplant them, or begin them in their ultimate pot. Choose a pot that’s at least 12 inches (30 cm) in diameter and has good drainage. Wet your potting soil so that it’s moist but not sodden, and press the seeds into the surface of the soil so that they’re still visible – chamomile seeds need light to germinate. The seeds will germinate best at a temperature of 68 F. (20 C.), so if your house is cold, place them on a heating mat or near a radiator. They should sprout in about two weeks. After they’ve developed their second set of true leaves, transplant them if they began in a seed starter or thin them to one every 2 inches (5 cm) if they began in a big pot.
Chamomile Care Indoors
Care of chamomile indoors is easy. The pot should be kept near a south-facing window. The soil should be kept moist but not overly wet; watering once per week should be enough. After 60 to 90 days, the plant should be ready to harvest for tea.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月25日
One of the strongest flavors available in nature is anise. Anise plant (Pimpinella anisum) is a Southern European and Mediterranean herb with a flavor reminiscent of licorice. The plant is attractive with lacy leaves and a profusion of white flowers and grows as a bushy ornamental herb. Growing anise in the herb garden provides a ready source of the seed for curries, baking and flavoring liqueurs.
What is Anise Plant?
Anise flowers are born in umbels like Queen Anne’s Lace. The seeds are the useful part of the plant and resemble caraway or carrot seeds. It’s easy to grow anise and the feathery leaves are borne on slightly purple stems. The plant, which grows just under 2 feet tall, requires a warm growing season of at least 120 days. Anise is widely cultivated in many European and Asian countries but has not been an important crop in the United States. Due to its delightful appearance and fragrance, there are now many gardeners who grow anise.
Growing Anise
Anise requires a fairly alkaline soil pH of 6.3 to 7.0. Anise plants need full sun and well-drained soil. Directly sow the seed into a prepared seed bed that is free of weeds, roots and other debris. Growing anise needs regular water until the plants are established and then can tolerate periods of drought. Anise plant may be harvested in August to September when the flowers go to seed. Save the seed heads in a paper bag until they dry enough for the seed to fall out of the old flowers. Keep the seeds in a cool dark location until spring sowing.
How to Plant Anise
Growing anise is an easy gardening project and can provide seed for a multitude of uses. Anise seeds are small and are easier to sow with a seed syringe for indoor planting or mixed in sand for outside planting. Temperature of the soil is an important consideration for how to plant anise. Soil should be workable and 60 F./15 C. for best germination. Space the seeds in rows 2 to 3 feet apart at a rate of 12 seeds per foot. Plant the seed ½ inch deep in well cultivated soils. Water the plants after emergence twice a week until they are 6 to 8 inches high and then gradually reduce irrigation. Apply a nitrogen fertilizer prior to flowering in June to July.
Anise Uses
Anise is an herb with culinary and medicinal properties. It is a digestive aid and to help respiratory illness. Its numerous uses in food and beverage span a wide range of international cuisines. The eastern European communities have used it widely in liqueurs such as Anisette. The seeds, once crushed, yield an aromatic oil that is used in soaps, perfume and potpourris. Dry the seeds for future use in cooking and store them in a glass container with a tightly sealed lid. The many uses of the herb provide an excellent incentive to grow anise plant.
What is Anise Plant?
Anise flowers are born in umbels like Queen Anne’s Lace. The seeds are the useful part of the plant and resemble caraway or carrot seeds. It’s easy to grow anise and the feathery leaves are borne on slightly purple stems. The plant, which grows just under 2 feet tall, requires a warm growing season of at least 120 days. Anise is widely cultivated in many European and Asian countries but has not been an important crop in the United States. Due to its delightful appearance and fragrance, there are now many gardeners who grow anise.
Growing Anise
Anise requires a fairly alkaline soil pH of 6.3 to 7.0. Anise plants need full sun and well-drained soil. Directly sow the seed into a prepared seed bed that is free of weeds, roots and other debris. Growing anise needs regular water until the plants are established and then can tolerate periods of drought. Anise plant may be harvested in August to September when the flowers go to seed. Save the seed heads in a paper bag until they dry enough for the seed to fall out of the old flowers. Keep the seeds in a cool dark location until spring sowing.
How to Plant Anise
Growing anise is an easy gardening project and can provide seed for a multitude of uses. Anise seeds are small and are easier to sow with a seed syringe for indoor planting or mixed in sand for outside planting. Temperature of the soil is an important consideration for how to plant anise. Soil should be workable and 60 F./15 C. for best germination. Space the seeds in rows 2 to 3 feet apart at a rate of 12 seeds per foot. Plant the seed ½ inch deep in well cultivated soils. Water the plants after emergence twice a week until they are 6 to 8 inches high and then gradually reduce irrigation. Apply a nitrogen fertilizer prior to flowering in June to July.
Anise Uses
Anise is an herb with culinary and medicinal properties. It is a digestive aid and to help respiratory illness. Its numerous uses in food and beverage span a wide range of international cuisines. The eastern European communities have used it widely in liqueurs such as Anisette. The seeds, once crushed, yield an aromatic oil that is used in soaps, perfume and potpourris. Dry the seeds for future use in cooking and store them in a glass container with a tightly sealed lid. The many uses of the herb provide an excellent incentive to grow anise plant.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月24日
Sweet cicely (Myrrhis odorata) is an attractive, early-blooming perennial herb with delicate, fern-like foliage, clusters of tiny white flowers and a pleasant, anise-like aroma. Sweet cicely plants are known by a number of alternate names, including garden myrrh, fern-leaved chervil, shepherd’s needle and sweet-scented myrrh. Interested in growing sweet cicely herbs? Read on to learn more.
Sweet Cicely Herb Uses
All parts of sweet cicely plants are edible. Although sweet cicely has been widely cultivated in past years and used to treat ailments such as stomachache and coughs, it isn’t commonly grown in most modern herb gardens. Many herbalists think sweet cicely deserves more attention, especially as a healthy, zero-calorie replacement for sugar.
You can also cook the leaves like spinach, or add fresh leaves to salads, soups or omelets. The stalks can be used much like celery, while the roots can be boiled or eaten raw. Many people say sweet cicely roots make flavorful wine. In the garden, sweet cicely plants are rich in nectar and highly valuable to beesand other beneficial insects. The plant is easy to dry and retains its sweet aroma even when dried.
How to Grow Sweet Cicely
Sweet cicely grows in USDA plant hardiness zones 3 through 7. The plants perform best in sun or part shade and moist, well-drained soil. An inch or two of compost or well-rotted manure gets sweet cicely off to a good start. Plant sweet cicely seeds directly in the garden in autumn, as the seeds germinate in spring after several weeks of cold winter weather followed by warm temperatures. While it’s possible to plant seeds in spring, the seeds must first undergo a period of chilling in the refrigerator (a process known as stratification) before they will germinate. You can also divide mature plants in spring or autumn.
Sweet Cicely Care
Sweet cicely care is definitely not involved. Just water as needed to keep the soil moist, as sweet cicely generally needs about an inch of water per week. Fertilize regularly. Use an organic fertilizer if you plan to use the herb in the kitchen. Otherwise, any general-purpose plant fertilizer is fine. While sweet cicely isn’t considered invasive, it can be quite aggressive. Remove the blooms before they set seed if you want to limit spread.
Sweet Cicely Herb Uses
All parts of sweet cicely plants are edible. Although sweet cicely has been widely cultivated in past years and used to treat ailments such as stomachache and coughs, it isn’t commonly grown in most modern herb gardens. Many herbalists think sweet cicely deserves more attention, especially as a healthy, zero-calorie replacement for sugar.
You can also cook the leaves like spinach, or add fresh leaves to salads, soups or omelets. The stalks can be used much like celery, while the roots can be boiled or eaten raw. Many people say sweet cicely roots make flavorful wine. In the garden, sweet cicely plants are rich in nectar and highly valuable to beesand other beneficial insects. The plant is easy to dry and retains its sweet aroma even when dried.
How to Grow Sweet Cicely
Sweet cicely grows in USDA plant hardiness zones 3 through 7. The plants perform best in sun or part shade and moist, well-drained soil. An inch or two of compost or well-rotted manure gets sweet cicely off to a good start. Plant sweet cicely seeds directly in the garden in autumn, as the seeds germinate in spring after several weeks of cold winter weather followed by warm temperatures. While it’s possible to plant seeds in spring, the seeds must first undergo a period of chilling in the refrigerator (a process known as stratification) before they will germinate. You can also divide mature plants in spring or autumn.
Sweet Cicely Care
Sweet cicely care is definitely not involved. Just water as needed to keep the soil moist, as sweet cicely generally needs about an inch of water per week. Fertilize regularly. Use an organic fertilizer if you plan to use the herb in the kitchen. Otherwise, any general-purpose plant fertilizer is fine. While sweet cicely isn’t considered invasive, it can be quite aggressive. Remove the blooms before they set seed if you want to limit spread.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月24日
St. John’s wort (Hypericum spp.) is a pretty little shrub with cheery yellow flowers that have a burst of long, showy stamen in the center. The blossoms last from midsummer until fall, and they are followed by colorful berries. St. John’s wort plant care is a snap, so let’s find out how easy it is to grow these delightful shrubs.
Can I Grow St. John’s Wort?
If you live in USDA plant hardiness zones 5 or 6 to 10 and have a partially shaded site, you can probably grow St. John’s wort. The plant isn’t particular about the soil type. It grows well in sand, clay, rocky soil or loam, and tolerates acidic to slightly alkaline pH. St. John’s wort adapts to both moist and dry soil, and even tolerates occasional flooding. It also withstands drought but grows best with irrigation during prolonged dry spells. You won’t find a plant that will thrive in more situations.
How to Grow St. John’s Wort
Growing St. John’s wort herb in a location with too much sun can lead to leaf scorch, while too much shade reduces the number of flowers. The best location is one with bright morning sunlight and a little shade in the hottest part of the afternoon. If your soil isn’t particularly fertile, prepare the bed before transplanting. Spread about 2 inches of compost or rotted manure over the area and dig it in to a depth of at least 8 inches. Transplant the shrubs into the garden, setting them at the height at which they grew in their containers. They grow only 1 to 3 feet tall with a spread of 1.5 to 2 feet, so space them 24 to 36 inches apart. Water slowly and deeply after planting and keep the soil moist until the transplants are well-established.
St John’s Wort Plant Uses
St. John’s wort makes an attractive ground cover and soil stabilizer. Once established, the plants need no care, and this makes them ideal for out-of-the-way locations. You can also use it as an edging or to mark boundaries and pathways where you don’t want to obstruct the view. Other uses include containers, rock gardens and foundation plantings. The species plants self-seed and can become weedy, particularly common St. John’s wort (H. perforatum). Ornamental cultivars are well-behaved plants that aren’t likely to grow out of control. Here are a few cultivars you might want to try: H. x moserianum ‘Tricolor’ – This cultivar is noted for its variegated foliage with a rainbow of color that includes red, pink, cream and green. H. frondosum ‘Sunburst’ – This is one of the cultivars that can take winter temperatures down to zone 5. It forms a bushy mound up to 2 feet in diameter. The Hypearls series includes the cultivars ‘Olivia’, ‘Renu’, ‘Jacqueline’ and ‘Jessica.’ This series is one of the best for hot climates. H. calycinum ‘Brigadoon’ – The flowers on this cultivar aren’t as conspicuous as some of the others, but it has chartreuse foliage that turns golden orange in bright sun.
Can I Grow St. John’s Wort?
If you live in USDA plant hardiness zones 5 or 6 to 10 and have a partially shaded site, you can probably grow St. John’s wort. The plant isn’t particular about the soil type. It grows well in sand, clay, rocky soil or loam, and tolerates acidic to slightly alkaline pH. St. John’s wort adapts to both moist and dry soil, and even tolerates occasional flooding. It also withstands drought but grows best with irrigation during prolonged dry spells. You won’t find a plant that will thrive in more situations.
How to Grow St. John’s Wort
Growing St. John’s wort herb in a location with too much sun can lead to leaf scorch, while too much shade reduces the number of flowers. The best location is one with bright morning sunlight and a little shade in the hottest part of the afternoon. If your soil isn’t particularly fertile, prepare the bed before transplanting. Spread about 2 inches of compost or rotted manure over the area and dig it in to a depth of at least 8 inches. Transplant the shrubs into the garden, setting them at the height at which they grew in their containers. They grow only 1 to 3 feet tall with a spread of 1.5 to 2 feet, so space them 24 to 36 inches apart. Water slowly and deeply after planting and keep the soil moist until the transplants are well-established.
St John’s Wort Plant Uses
St. John’s wort makes an attractive ground cover and soil stabilizer. Once established, the plants need no care, and this makes them ideal for out-of-the-way locations. You can also use it as an edging or to mark boundaries and pathways where you don’t want to obstruct the view. Other uses include containers, rock gardens and foundation plantings. The species plants self-seed and can become weedy, particularly common St. John’s wort (H. perforatum). Ornamental cultivars are well-behaved plants that aren’t likely to grow out of control. Here are a few cultivars you might want to try: H. x moserianum ‘Tricolor’ – This cultivar is noted for its variegated foliage with a rainbow of color that includes red, pink, cream and green. H. frondosum ‘Sunburst’ – This is one of the cultivars that can take winter temperatures down to zone 5. It forms a bushy mound up to 2 feet in diameter. The Hypearls series includes the cultivars ‘Olivia’, ‘Renu’, ‘Jacqueline’ and ‘Jessica.’ This series is one of the best for hot climates. H. calycinum ‘Brigadoon’ – The flowers on this cultivar aren’t as conspicuous as some of the others, but it has chartreuse foliage that turns golden orange in bright sun.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月24日
That bushy plant in your garden bearing yellow flowers summer through fall, the one known as St. John’s wort (Hypericum “Hidcote”) may be considered low-maintenance, but it flowers more prolifically if you give it an annual haircut. Read on for information about St. John’s wort pruning, including how and when to cut back St. John’s wort.
St. John’s Wort Pruning
St. John’s wort is an undemanding shrub that grows in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 5 through 9. If your shrub has fewer and fewer flowers every year, you may want to start pruning St. John’s wort. These are delightful plants to have in your garden, bright and colorful and easy-care. However, an annual pruning is necessary to keep the St. John’s wort nicely shaped and full of summer flowers. It also helps keep the plant in check overall, as it can be prone to getting out of control in some places.
When to Cut Back St. John’s Wort
St. John’s wort flowers on new growth. This means that all the blossoms you see in summer bud and bloom on the new wood the plant grows in spring. You must take this timing into account as you decide when to cut back St. John’s wort. You don’t want to reduce summer flowers by cutting off the new growth that will produce them. In fact, early spring is the time to do St. John’s wort pruning. Cutting back St. John’s wort shrub just before the new growth begins is ideal.
How to Prune a St. John’s Wort Shrub
Before you start cutting back St. John’s wort, be sure your shears are clean and sharp. Sterilize them if necessary in a mixture of bleach and water. If you are wondering how to prune a St. John’s wort shrub, here are some tips: Plan on pruning off about one-third of the total height of the shrub in mid or late March. Pruning St. John’s wort involves reducing all branch tips and selectively removing some branches to thin the plant. You should remove any branches that are dead, damaged or crossing. Remove others from crowded areas. Cutting back St. John’s wort increases flowering because every place you make a cut will branch into two stems. Each of those stem tips will develop a separate blossom cluster. Even if your shrub hasn’t flowered for a long time or appears beyond repair, give it a chance. You can prune St. John’s wort very severely – almost all the way to the ground – to rejuvenate it.
St. John’s Wort Pruning
St. John’s wort is an undemanding shrub that grows in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 5 through 9. If your shrub has fewer and fewer flowers every year, you may want to start pruning St. John’s wort. These are delightful plants to have in your garden, bright and colorful and easy-care. However, an annual pruning is necessary to keep the St. John’s wort nicely shaped and full of summer flowers. It also helps keep the plant in check overall, as it can be prone to getting out of control in some places.
When to Cut Back St. John’s Wort
St. John’s wort flowers on new growth. This means that all the blossoms you see in summer bud and bloom on the new wood the plant grows in spring. You must take this timing into account as you decide when to cut back St. John’s wort. You don’t want to reduce summer flowers by cutting off the new growth that will produce them. In fact, early spring is the time to do St. John’s wort pruning. Cutting back St. John’s wort shrub just before the new growth begins is ideal.
How to Prune a St. John’s Wort Shrub
Before you start cutting back St. John’s wort, be sure your shears are clean and sharp. Sterilize them if necessary in a mixture of bleach and water. If you are wondering how to prune a St. John’s wort shrub, here are some tips: Plan on pruning off about one-third of the total height of the shrub in mid or late March. Pruning St. John’s wort involves reducing all branch tips and selectively removing some branches to thin the plant. You should remove any branches that are dead, damaged or crossing. Remove others from crowded areas. Cutting back St. John’s wort increases flowering because every place you make a cut will branch into two stems. Each of those stem tips will develop a separate blossom cluster. Even if your shrub hasn’t flowered for a long time or appears beyond repair, give it a chance. You can prune St. John’s wort very severely – almost all the way to the ground – to rejuvenate it.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月24日
Saffron is obtained from harvesting the styles off mature Crocus sativus flowers. These tiny strands are the source of an expensive spice useful in many global cuisines. If you find your saffron not flowering, you may be stuck buying the spice at premium prices at the supermarket. In order to enjoy the beauty of the flowers and, more importantly, protect your pocketbook, finding out why saffron crocus is not blooming is crucial. Read on to find out how to get saffron crocus flowers in full production.
Saffron Crocus Growing Conditions
Saffron has been a popular spice since ancient times. It has an important place in the cuisines of Africa, the Middle East, and Mediterranean cuisines, and was a common barter spice brought to new lands by Spanish and other explorers. The spice is pricey but you can grow your own and harvest the flavor and color rich styles from the centers of your flowers. That is, of course, if you have the proper saffron crocus growing conditions.
Who ever heard of a non-blooming saffron crocus anyway? What would be the point? In fact, some bulbs may be non-blooming due to disease, insect interference or damage to the embryo. The first step to correcting the issue is to dig up and examine the bulbs. Only plant back the healthiest that are without blemish and are plump, smooth and about 4 inches in diameter. Make sure your soil is well draining and the location is in full sun. Plant the bulbs 5 to 6 inches deep in fluffy but gritty loam. Add a bit of potassium rich fertilizer directly into the planting hole or cover the soil over the bulb with wood ash. Avoid nitrogen fertilizers which force more greenery at the expense of the flowers. Keep in mind that the hardiness range of saffron is United States Department of Agriculture zones 5 to 8. In other zones, the bulbs may refuse to flower.
How to Get Saffron Crocus Flowers
Even the experts admit the bulbs aren’t easy to bring to flower. The extra potassium should help but if you plant at the wrong time, these fall bloomers may refuse to produce flowers. Early August is a perfect time to install the bulbs. Understanding the life cycle of these pretty little flowers might prove useful. The leaves erupt in late winter to early spring. No blooms occur during this time. Once the temperatures start to heat up, the bulb goes dormant and the leaves die back. During this time, water the bulbs sparingly. New leaves form in September when cooler air arrives. Once you have leaves, the flower makes its appearance. If the saffron crocus is not blooming, it might have gotten hit with an early freeze or site and soil conditions may not be right.
Non-Blooming Saffron Crocus Triage
Generally, saffron crocus flower well the first year but slowly peter out over successive years. Old bulbs could be the reason for saffron not flowering. The good news is that the bulbs will naturalize and you can dig up and separate the biggest, most vigorous ones to grow. Another common cause of failure to bloom in saffron is from pests and not the little brother type pest. I am referring to rodents and birds. Rodents will eat the bulb and birds will pluck off the flowers. Use bait stations to keep rodents at bay and bird netting to protect the blooms. Once you have a lovely crop of fall crocus, use tweezers to harvest the red styles. Dry them and store them in a dim, cool location until ready to use in Paella or whatever your favorite saffron dish may be.
Saffron Crocus Growing Conditions
Saffron has been a popular spice since ancient times. It has an important place in the cuisines of Africa, the Middle East, and Mediterranean cuisines, and was a common barter spice brought to new lands by Spanish and other explorers. The spice is pricey but you can grow your own and harvest the flavor and color rich styles from the centers of your flowers. That is, of course, if you have the proper saffron crocus growing conditions.
Who ever heard of a non-blooming saffron crocus anyway? What would be the point? In fact, some bulbs may be non-blooming due to disease, insect interference or damage to the embryo. The first step to correcting the issue is to dig up and examine the bulbs. Only plant back the healthiest that are without blemish and are plump, smooth and about 4 inches in diameter. Make sure your soil is well draining and the location is in full sun. Plant the bulbs 5 to 6 inches deep in fluffy but gritty loam. Add a bit of potassium rich fertilizer directly into the planting hole or cover the soil over the bulb with wood ash. Avoid nitrogen fertilizers which force more greenery at the expense of the flowers. Keep in mind that the hardiness range of saffron is United States Department of Agriculture zones 5 to 8. In other zones, the bulbs may refuse to flower.
How to Get Saffron Crocus Flowers
Even the experts admit the bulbs aren’t easy to bring to flower. The extra potassium should help but if you plant at the wrong time, these fall bloomers may refuse to produce flowers. Early August is a perfect time to install the bulbs. Understanding the life cycle of these pretty little flowers might prove useful. The leaves erupt in late winter to early spring. No blooms occur during this time. Once the temperatures start to heat up, the bulb goes dormant and the leaves die back. During this time, water the bulbs sparingly. New leaves form in September when cooler air arrives. Once you have leaves, the flower makes its appearance. If the saffron crocus is not blooming, it might have gotten hit with an early freeze or site and soil conditions may not be right.
Non-Blooming Saffron Crocus Triage
Generally, saffron crocus flower well the first year but slowly peter out over successive years. Old bulbs could be the reason for saffron not flowering. The good news is that the bulbs will naturalize and you can dig up and separate the biggest, most vigorous ones to grow. Another common cause of failure to bloom in saffron is from pests and not the little brother type pest. I am referring to rodents and birds. Rodents will eat the bulb and birds will pluck off the flowers. Use bait stations to keep rodents at bay and bird netting to protect the blooms. Once you have a lovely crop of fall crocus, use tweezers to harvest the red styles. Dry them and store them in a dim, cool location until ready to use in Paella or whatever your favorite saffron dish may be.
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