文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月20日
Schefflera is popular as a houseplant and is usually grown for its attractive foliage. Most people in temperate regions have never seen a schefflera blooming, and it would be easy to assume that the plant doesn’t produce flowers. Flowering schefflera plants may be unusual, but these plants do bloom once in a while, even when they’re grown indoors year round.
When Does Schefflera Bloom?
Schefflera plants, which are commonly known as umbrella trees, are tropical. In the wild, they grow in tropical rainforests or in various parts of Australia and China, depending on the species. They certainly produce flowers in their native habitats, but you may be wondering: does schefflera bloom in cooler regions?
Schefflera plants are less likely to flower in temperate regions, but they do produce flowers occasionally, especially in warmer locations like Florida and Southern California. In gardening zones 10 and 11, Schefflera actinophylla can be planted outdoors in a full sun location, and these conditions seem to give the plant the best chance to flower. The schefflera blooms are most likely to appear in summer. Flowering is not reliable outside the tropics, so this likely won’t happen every year. Schefflera arboricola has been known to bloom indoors. Giving the plant as much sunlight as possible may help encourage it to flower, and this species, too, is most likely to bloom in summer.
What Do Schefflera Flowers Look Like?
Depending on the species, schefflera blooms can be white, pink, or red. In Schefflera actinophylla, each inflorescence, or flower spike, is quite long and showy, with many small flowers emerging along its length. The inflorescences are grouped in clusters at the end of branches. These clusters have been described as looking like the tentacles of an upside-down octopus, which accounts for one of the plant’s common names, “octopus-tree.” Schefflera arboricola produces more compact flowers on small inflorescences that look like small white spikes. Its flower spikes also grow in clusters that have a surprising appearance, especially on a plant that is so well known for its foliage. When your schefflera plant flowers, it is definitely a special occasion. Be sure to take some photos before these schefflera blooms fade!
When Does Schefflera Bloom?
Schefflera plants, which are commonly known as umbrella trees, are tropical. In the wild, they grow in tropical rainforests or in various parts of Australia and China, depending on the species. They certainly produce flowers in their native habitats, but you may be wondering: does schefflera bloom in cooler regions?
Schefflera plants are less likely to flower in temperate regions, but they do produce flowers occasionally, especially in warmer locations like Florida and Southern California. In gardening zones 10 and 11, Schefflera actinophylla can be planted outdoors in a full sun location, and these conditions seem to give the plant the best chance to flower. The schefflera blooms are most likely to appear in summer. Flowering is not reliable outside the tropics, so this likely won’t happen every year. Schefflera arboricola has been known to bloom indoors. Giving the plant as much sunlight as possible may help encourage it to flower, and this species, too, is most likely to bloom in summer.
What Do Schefflera Flowers Look Like?
Depending on the species, schefflera blooms can be white, pink, or red. In Schefflera actinophylla, each inflorescence, or flower spike, is quite long and showy, with many small flowers emerging along its length. The inflorescences are grouped in clusters at the end of branches. These clusters have been described as looking like the tentacles of an upside-down octopus, which accounts for one of the plant’s common names, “octopus-tree.” Schefflera arboricola produces more compact flowers on small inflorescences that look like small white spikes. Its flower spikes also grow in clusters that have a surprising appearance, especially on a plant that is so well known for its foliage. When your schefflera plant flowers, it is definitely a special occasion. Be sure to take some photos before these schefflera blooms fade!
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月19日
Pitcher plants are interesting and beautiful carnivorous plants that rely primarily on insect pests for sustenance. Do pitcher plants bloom? They certainly do, and pitcher plant flowers are just as fascinating as the colorful, mysterious pitchers. Read on for more pitcher plant (Sarracenia) flower information. 
Pitcher Plant Flowers
Have you noticed something different about your pitcher plant or one from someone else’s garden – something appearing somewhat like a flower? Then the plant is blooming, or getting ready to.
Flowers of pitcher plants make an appearance in a two- to three-week span of time in April or May, depending on the climate and the specific plant type. The flowers, which look much like upside-down umbrellas, rise above the pitchers, a functional design that serves to protect friendly pollinators from inadvertently getting caught in the pitcher.
Flowers of pitcher plants may be purple, red, burgundy, white, yellow or pink, which also varies depending on the type. In some cases, pitcher plant flower petals are multi-colored, and often, pitcher plant blooming is made even more dramatic by the contrasting stigma. Sometimes, the colorful blooms are sweetly scented, but may, on the other hand, have a less pleasant odor reminiscent of cat urine. Unlike the pitchers, which are deadly to visiting insects, pitcher plant flowers are perfectly harmless. In fact, the flowers function like regular flowers by providing insects (mostly bees) with nectar and pollen.
The spent flowers eventually shrivel, form seed capsules and scatter seeds for the production of brand new plants. One seed capsule can release as many as 300 tiny, papery seeds. Germination of a new pitcher plant from seed generally is a slow process with new flowers or pitchers developing after three to six years. Now that you know a little more about the flowering in pitcher plants, you have yet another reason to grow these wonderful, fun plants.
Pitcher Plant Flowers
Have you noticed something different about your pitcher plant or one from someone else’s garden – something appearing somewhat like a flower? Then the plant is blooming, or getting ready to.
Flowers of pitcher plants make an appearance in a two- to three-week span of time in April or May, depending on the climate and the specific plant type. The flowers, which look much like upside-down umbrellas, rise above the pitchers, a functional design that serves to protect friendly pollinators from inadvertently getting caught in the pitcher.
Flowers of pitcher plants may be purple, red, burgundy, white, yellow or pink, which also varies depending on the type. In some cases, pitcher plant flower petals are multi-colored, and often, pitcher plant blooming is made even more dramatic by the contrasting stigma. Sometimes, the colorful blooms are sweetly scented, but may, on the other hand, have a less pleasant odor reminiscent of cat urine. Unlike the pitchers, which are deadly to visiting insects, pitcher plant flowers are perfectly harmless. In fact, the flowers function like regular flowers by providing insects (mostly bees) with nectar and pollen.
The spent flowers eventually shrivel, form seed capsules and scatter seeds for the production of brand new plants. One seed capsule can release as many as 300 tiny, papery seeds. Germination of a new pitcher plant from seed generally is a slow process with new flowers or pitchers developing after three to six years. Now that you know a little more about the flowering in pitcher plants, you have yet another reason to grow these wonderful, fun plants.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月19日
The peace lily (Spathiphyllum wallisii) is an attractive indoor flower known for its ability to thrive in low light. It usually grows between 1-4 feet (.3-1.2 m.) in height and produces pale white flowers that give off a pleasant fragrance and last a long time. Sometimes, however, peace lilies suffer from browning or yellowing leaves. Keep reading to learn about what causes peace lily leaves to turn yellow and how to treat it.
Reasons for Peace Lilies with Brown and Yellow Leaves
Normally, peace lily leaves are long and dark green, emerging directly from the soil and growing up and out. The leaves are strong and oval shaped, narrowing to a point at the tip. They are durable, and often the biggest problem they encounter is that they collect dust and need to be wiped off periodically.
Sometimes, however, the edges of peace lily leaves turn a sickly yellow or brown color. The root of the problem is almost definitely water related. This browning can be caused by too little or too much watering.
There is a good chance, however, that it is due to a buildup of minerals. Since peace lilies are primarily kept as houseplants, they are almost always watered with tap water. If you have hard water in your house, it may be accumulating too much calcium in your plant’s soil. Conversely, this mineral buildup is just as likely if you use a water softener. Some minerals are good, but too many can build up around your plant’s roots and slowly suffocate it.
Treating a Peace Lily with Brown Tips
Spathiphyllum leaf problems like this can normally be cleared up fairly easy. If you have a peace lily with brown tips, try watering it with bottled drinking water. First, flush the plant with lots of bottled water until it runs out of the drainage holes. The minerals will bond with the water and wash away with it (if you can see white deposits around the drainage holes, mineral buildup is almost definitely your problem). After this, water your peace lily like normal, but with bottled water, and your plant ought to recover just fine. You can also snip out unsightly brown/yellow leaves.
Reasons for Peace Lilies with Brown and Yellow Leaves
Normally, peace lily leaves are long and dark green, emerging directly from the soil and growing up and out. The leaves are strong and oval shaped, narrowing to a point at the tip. They are durable, and often the biggest problem they encounter is that they collect dust and need to be wiped off periodically.
Sometimes, however, the edges of peace lily leaves turn a sickly yellow or brown color. The root of the problem is almost definitely water related. This browning can be caused by too little or too much watering.
There is a good chance, however, that it is due to a buildup of minerals. Since peace lilies are primarily kept as houseplants, they are almost always watered with tap water. If you have hard water in your house, it may be accumulating too much calcium in your plant’s soil. Conversely, this mineral buildup is just as likely if you use a water softener. Some minerals are good, but too many can build up around your plant’s roots and slowly suffocate it.
Treating a Peace Lily with Brown Tips
Spathiphyllum leaf problems like this can normally be cleared up fairly easy. If you have a peace lily with brown tips, try watering it with bottled drinking water. First, flush the plant with lots of bottled water until it runs out of the drainage holes. The minerals will bond with the water and wash away with it (if you can see white deposits around the drainage holes, mineral buildup is almost definitely your problem). After this, water your peace lily like normal, but with bottled water, and your plant ought to recover just fine. You can also snip out unsightly brown/yellow leaves.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月19日
Peace lilies are not true lilies but in the Araceae family. They are beautiful evergreen plants that produce creamy white spathes, similar to flowers. The presence of these plants in your home or garden may pose a risk to your pets, especially dogs that like to chew different plants in the landscape. How toxic is peace lily? Read this article for the answer and tips on how to protect your pet. 
How Toxic is Peace Lily?
As glorious as peace lilies are when they are blooming, there is an underlying menace in these hooded flowering plants. The presence of peace lily and dogs can be an unfriendly equation. Is peace lily toxic to dogs? All parts of the plant, from stems to leaves and even the attractive blooms, contain an irritating toxin that can be dangerous to man’s best friend, so it is best to remove or fence off an area where peace lilies grow. Peace lily isn’t technically poisonous, but it contains a compound that can be extremely bothersome to pets, children and even an adult if consumed. Even the pollen from the spadix can cause oral irritation if licked off fur and paws. The culprit is the presence of calcium oxalate crystals. These are also called raphides, and are needle sharp and shoot out of damaged parts of the plant. The crystals are insoluble and persistent when they contact tissue. The result is an inflammatory reaction, which can be mild to severe and accompanied by other symptoms.
Symptoms of Peace Lily Toxicity in Dogs
As if having an inflamed, irritated mouth, muzzle and throat aren’t enough, peace lily toxicity in dogs can also manifest several other symptoms. Animals may also get diarrhea, vomit and exhibit excessive drooling. In severe cases, your dog may appear to have trouble breathing due to an inflamed airway. The symptoms can be very distressing but usually don’t warrant a trip to your veterinarian. If the animal shows signs of airway discomfort or if symptoms persist, however, it is time to call your animal doctor and seek treatment. In most cases, the irritation is minor and home remedies can do the trick. If you are unsure what plant your dog may have eaten, it is also a good idea to seek the advice of your vet.
Treating Peace Lily Symptoms
If symptoms are mild and the dog is not in too much distress, make sure there are no plant parts still in its mouth. Try to rinse the dog’s mouth out and encourage drinking of water. Ice chips can ease the discomfort or even ice cream. If the animal is experiencing difficulty breathing, you should take it to the veterinarian. Steroids and anti-inflammatory drugs are the usual prescription. Once your animal is comfortable, take steps to remove peace lily and dogs from each other’s company. Either pot up the plants and place them in a high location or simply remove them from the landscape. Determining how to deal with the problem also depends upon how successfully your dog learned from its lesson. In most cases, the animal will never go near the plant again.
How Toxic is Peace Lily?
As glorious as peace lilies are when they are blooming, there is an underlying menace in these hooded flowering plants. The presence of peace lily and dogs can be an unfriendly equation. Is peace lily toxic to dogs? All parts of the plant, from stems to leaves and even the attractive blooms, contain an irritating toxin that can be dangerous to man’s best friend, so it is best to remove or fence off an area where peace lilies grow. Peace lily isn’t technically poisonous, but it contains a compound that can be extremely bothersome to pets, children and even an adult if consumed. Even the pollen from the spadix can cause oral irritation if licked off fur and paws. The culprit is the presence of calcium oxalate crystals. These are also called raphides, and are needle sharp and shoot out of damaged parts of the plant. The crystals are insoluble and persistent when they contact tissue. The result is an inflammatory reaction, which can be mild to severe and accompanied by other symptoms.
Symptoms of Peace Lily Toxicity in Dogs
As if having an inflamed, irritated mouth, muzzle and throat aren’t enough, peace lily toxicity in dogs can also manifest several other symptoms. Animals may also get diarrhea, vomit and exhibit excessive drooling. In severe cases, your dog may appear to have trouble breathing due to an inflamed airway. The symptoms can be very distressing but usually don’t warrant a trip to your veterinarian. If the animal shows signs of airway discomfort or if symptoms persist, however, it is time to call your animal doctor and seek treatment. In most cases, the irritation is minor and home remedies can do the trick. If you are unsure what plant your dog may have eaten, it is also a good idea to seek the advice of your vet.
Treating Peace Lily Symptoms
If symptoms are mild and the dog is not in too much distress, make sure there are no plant parts still in its mouth. Try to rinse the dog’s mouth out and encourage drinking of water. Ice chips can ease the discomfort or even ice cream. If the animal is experiencing difficulty breathing, you should take it to the veterinarian. Steroids and anti-inflammatory drugs are the usual prescription. Once your animal is comfortable, take steps to remove peace lily and dogs from each other’s company. Either pot up the plants and place them in a high location or simply remove them from the landscape. Determining how to deal with the problem also depends upon how successfully your dog learned from its lesson. In most cases, the animal will never go near the plant again.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月19日
Peace lily is a popular indoor plant, valued for its easy-going nature, its ability to grow in low light environments, and last but certainly not least, the beautiful white flowers, which bloom nearly nonstop. Although this plant isn’t fussy, it’s important to understand how to water a peace lily. Read on for the details of peace lily watering requirements.
When to Water Peace Lily
Poke your finger into the potting soil to determine if it’s time to water your peace lily. If the soil feels moist to the first knuckle, it’s too soon for watering peace lilies. If the soil feels dry, it’s time to give your peace lily a drink of water. If you like high-tech gadgets, you can use a water meter. However, the knuckle test is just as reliable and considerably cheaper.
How to Water a Peace Lily
The best way to water a peace lily is to set the plant in the sink. Pour water slowly onto the soil until liquid drips through the bottom of the pot. Let the plant drain thoroughly, then return it to its drainage saucer. Never let the plant sit in water, as disease caused by excess water is the number one reason for houseplant death. Too little water is always preferable to too much water. Peace lilies can stand a fair amount of neglect, but allowing the soil to become bone dry may result in a sad, droopy plant. However, peace lily will nearly always bounce back with a good watering.
Peace Lily Watering Tips
Tap water is fine for watering peace lilies, but letting the water sit out for a day or two allows fluoride and other harmful chemicals to dissipate. If water runs straight through the pot, it may mean the plant is badly root bound. If this is the case, repot your peace lily as soon as possible. If you forget to water your peace lily for an extended time, the edges of the leaves may turn yellow. If this happens, water the plant well, then clip off the yellowing foliage. Your plant should soon be good as new.
When to Water Peace Lily
Poke your finger into the potting soil to determine if it’s time to water your peace lily. If the soil feels moist to the first knuckle, it’s too soon for watering peace lilies. If the soil feels dry, it’s time to give your peace lily a drink of water. If you like high-tech gadgets, you can use a water meter. However, the knuckle test is just as reliable and considerably cheaper.
How to Water a Peace Lily
The best way to water a peace lily is to set the plant in the sink. Pour water slowly onto the soil until liquid drips through the bottom of the pot. Let the plant drain thoroughly, then return it to its drainage saucer. Never let the plant sit in water, as disease caused by excess water is the number one reason for houseplant death. Too little water is always preferable to too much water. Peace lilies can stand a fair amount of neglect, but allowing the soil to become bone dry may result in a sad, droopy plant. However, peace lily will nearly always bounce back with a good watering.
Peace Lily Watering Tips
Tap water is fine for watering peace lilies, but letting the water sit out for a day or two allows fluoride and other harmful chemicals to dissipate. If water runs straight through the pot, it may mean the plant is badly root bound. If this is the case, repot your peace lily as soon as possible. If you forget to water your peace lily for an extended time, the edges of the leaves may turn yellow. If this happens, water the plant well, then clip off the yellowing foliage. Your plant should soon be good as new.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月19日
Peace lilies are excellent houseplants. They’re easy to care for, they do well in low light, and they’ve been proven by NASA to help purify the air around them. But what do you do when the flowers or even the leaves start to dry up and die? Should peace lilies be pruned? Keep reading to learn more about when and how to prune peace lily plants.
Peace Lily Pruning
Peace lilies are known for their big white bracts, the part we think of as a flower that is actually a modified white leaf surrounding a cluster of tiny flowers on a stalk. After this “flower” has bloomed for a while, it will naturally start to turn green and droop. This is normal, and it just means the flower is spent.
You can clean up the appearance of the plant by deadheading. Peace lilies produce their flowers on stalks that grow up from the base of the plant. Once a stalk has made one flower, it won’t make any more – after the flower fades, the stalk will eventually brown and die as well. Peace lily pruning should be done at the base of the plant. Cut the stalk off as close to the bottom as you can. This will make room for new stalks to emerge.
Pruning a peace lily isn’t limited to the flower stalks. Sometimes leaves yellow and start to shrivel up. This may be due to under watering or too much light, but it can also happen just because of old age. If any of your leaves are turning color or drying out, just cut the offending leaves away at their base. Always disinfect your shears between each cut to prevent the spread of disease. That’s all there is to pruning peace lilies. Nothing too complicated and a very good way to keep your plants looking healthy and happy.
Peace Lily Pruning
Peace lilies are known for their big white bracts, the part we think of as a flower that is actually a modified white leaf surrounding a cluster of tiny flowers on a stalk. After this “flower” has bloomed for a while, it will naturally start to turn green and droop. This is normal, and it just means the flower is spent.
You can clean up the appearance of the plant by deadheading. Peace lilies produce their flowers on stalks that grow up from the base of the plant. Once a stalk has made one flower, it won’t make any more – after the flower fades, the stalk will eventually brown and die as well. Peace lily pruning should be done at the base of the plant. Cut the stalk off as close to the bottom as you can. This will make room for new stalks to emerge.
Pruning a peace lily isn’t limited to the flower stalks. Sometimes leaves yellow and start to shrivel up. This may be due to under watering or too much light, but it can also happen just because of old age. If any of your leaves are turning color or drying out, just cut the offending leaves away at their base. Always disinfect your shears between each cut to prevent the spread of disease. That’s all there is to pruning peace lilies. Nothing too complicated and a very good way to keep your plants looking healthy and happy.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月19日
Peace lilies have green leaves and lovely flowers, which are slender, graceful and the color of porcelain. If you see your peace lily getting brown tips on its leaves, it’s time to review the care you are giving them. Generally, brown tips on peace lily leaves means the owner made mistakes in providing care. Read on for information about what causes a peace lily with brown tips on its leaves.
Reasons for Brown Peace Lily Tips
In a healthy peace lily, the stalks bearing the beautiful lily-like flowers emerge from a mounding mass of glossy green leaves. If you see brown tips on peace lily leaves, review your cultural care immediately. Brown peace lily tips almost always result from improper care. Every species of houseplant has its own requirements for essentials like water, fertilizer, sun and soil. If you get any one aspect wrong, the plant will suffer.
Irrigation problem – The most likely reason for brown tips on peace lily leaves is irrigation, either too much or too little. Generally, experts recommend that you wait until the lily wilts slightly before watering it. When you give the plant too little water, the leaf tips may turn brown. For example, if you wait until the lily is deeply wilted instead of just slightly wilted to provide water, brown peace lily tips are the likely consequence. But the opposite extreme, watering so frequently that the soil is soggy, is equally bad for the plant. Curiously, it causes the same symptom: peace lily with brown tips on its leaves. Humidity – These plants appreciate warm, wet environments. In fact, you should keep the plant on a large saucer filled with pebbles and water to provide the humidity it craves. If you don’t do this, the peace lily may still be okay. But if you place it in the path of a heat vent, it isn’t likely to pass through unscathed. You are likely to see leaf damage in the form of peace lilies getting brown tips.
Fertilizer and/or salt – Excess fertilizer also causes brown leaf tips on peace lilies. Only feed your lily once every few months. Even then, dilute the solution until it is quite weak. Salt in the water can also cause brown tips on peace lily leaves. If you suspect your water has a high salt content, use distilled water to irrigate.
Reasons for Brown Peace Lily Tips
In a healthy peace lily, the stalks bearing the beautiful lily-like flowers emerge from a mounding mass of glossy green leaves. If you see brown tips on peace lily leaves, review your cultural care immediately. Brown peace lily tips almost always result from improper care. Every species of houseplant has its own requirements for essentials like water, fertilizer, sun and soil. If you get any one aspect wrong, the plant will suffer.
Irrigation problem – The most likely reason for brown tips on peace lily leaves is irrigation, either too much or too little. Generally, experts recommend that you wait until the lily wilts slightly before watering it. When you give the plant too little water, the leaf tips may turn brown. For example, if you wait until the lily is deeply wilted instead of just slightly wilted to provide water, brown peace lily tips are the likely consequence. But the opposite extreme, watering so frequently that the soil is soggy, is equally bad for the plant. Curiously, it causes the same symptom: peace lily with brown tips on its leaves. Humidity – These plants appreciate warm, wet environments. In fact, you should keep the plant on a large saucer filled with pebbles and water to provide the humidity it craves. If you don’t do this, the peace lily may still be okay. But if you place it in the path of a heat vent, it isn’t likely to pass through unscathed. You are likely to see leaf damage in the form of peace lilies getting brown tips.
Fertilizer and/or salt – Excess fertilizer also causes brown leaf tips on peace lilies. Only feed your lily once every few months. Even then, dilute the solution until it is quite weak. Salt in the water can also cause brown tips on peace lily leaves. If you suspect your water has a high salt content, use distilled water to irrigate.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月17日
Epiphyllum cactus are also called orchid cactus due to their lovely flowers. The flowers turn into a chubby little fruit filled with tiny seeds. Growing Ephiphyllum seeds will take some patience but it is a rewarding endeavor that will give you more of these beautiful epiphytic cacti. Epiphyllum have flat-leaf stems set in disjointed connections. The stems produce brilliantly colored flowers that may span up to nearly 10 inches in diameter but are more commonly an inch or two. As epiphytes, these plants grow on trees in their native regions. As houseplants, they prefer a lightly gritty soil with peat moss as an addition.
Epiphyllum Cactus Fruit
Epiphyllum flowers have a similar structure to any other bloom. The ovary is at the heart of the flower and will foster the formation of the fruit or seed pod. The petals on Epiphyllum are arranged differently, depending upon the variety. Some are cup-shaped, others bell-shaped and still others funnel-shaped. The arrangement of the petals may be irregular or spoke-like. Once the pollen tipped stamen are ripe, busy insects move from flower to flower, transferring the pollen. If you are lucky and your cactus flowers get pollinated and fertilized, the bloom will drop off and the ovule will begin to swell and turn into Epiphyllum seed pods or fruit. The pods on Epiphyllum plants are the result of a successful fertilization. They are round to oval slightly bumpy bright red fruits, filled with soft pulp and small black seeds. Is Epiphyllum fruit edible? Most cactus fruits are edible and Epiphyllyum is no exception. Epiphyllum cactus fruit have variable flavor, depending upon the cultivar and when the fruit is harvested, but most say it tastes like dragon fruit or even passion fruit.
Epiphyllum Cactus Seed Info
Epiphyllum flowers have a similar structure to any other bloom. The ovary is at the heart of the flower and will foster the formation of the fruit or seed pod. The petals on Epiphyllum are arranged differently, depending upon the variety. Some are cup-shaped, others bell-shaped and still others funnel-shaped. The arrangement of the petals may be irregular or spoke-like. Once the pollen tipped stamen are ripe, busy insects move from flower to flower, transferring the pollen. If you are lucky and your cactus flowers get pollinated and fertilized, the bloom will drop off and the ovule will begin to swell and turn into Epiphyllum seed pods or fruit. The pods on Epiphyllum plants are the result of a successful fertilization. They are round to oval slightly bumpy bright red fruits, filled with soft pulp and small black seeds. Is Epiphyllum fruit edible? Most cactus fruits are edible and Epiphyllyum is no exception. Epiphyllum cactus fruit have variable flavor, depending upon the cultivar and when the fruit is harvested, but most say it tastes like dragon fruit or even passion fruit.
Epiphyllum Cactus Seed Info
The pods on Epiphyllum plants are edible. The best taste seems to be when they are plump and bright red. Once the fruit begins to shrivel, the seeds are ready to harvest, but the flavor will be off. Epiphyllum seed pods need to have the pulp scooped out in order to harvest the seed. Soak the pulp in water and scoop the pulp. Any floating seeds provide important Epiphyllum cactus seed info, as these are duds and not viable. They should be discarded. Once all the pulp and bad seeds are out, drain off the good seeds and let them air dry. They are now ready to plant.
Growing Epiphyllum Seeds
Create a growing medium of potting soil, peat and fine grit. Choose a shallow container in which to germinate the seeds. Spread the seed across the surface of the soil and then lightly sprinkle some soil mixture over them. Mist the surface deeply and then cover the container with a lid to keep in moisture and promote heat. Once the seedlings have appeared, grow the plants in a bright location with indirect light. Keep the babies lightly moist and remove the cover occasionally to allow them to breathe. Once they are too tall for the lid, you can dispense with it and allow them to continue growing for 7 to 10 months. Then it is time to repot them individually. It can take 5 more years before the new plants bloom, but the wait is worth it as you watch the plant develop.
Epiphyllum Cactus Fruit
Epiphyllum flowers have a similar structure to any other bloom. The ovary is at the heart of the flower and will foster the formation of the fruit or seed pod. The petals on Epiphyllum are arranged differently, depending upon the variety. Some are cup-shaped, others bell-shaped and still others funnel-shaped. The arrangement of the petals may be irregular or spoke-like. Once the pollen tipped stamen are ripe, busy insects move from flower to flower, transferring the pollen. If you are lucky and your cactus flowers get pollinated and fertilized, the bloom will drop off and the ovule will begin to swell and turn into Epiphyllum seed pods or fruit. The pods on Epiphyllum plants are the result of a successful fertilization. They are round to oval slightly bumpy bright red fruits, filled with soft pulp and small black seeds. Is Epiphyllum fruit edible? Most cactus fruits are edible and Epiphyllyum is no exception. Epiphyllum cactus fruit have variable flavor, depending upon the cultivar and when the fruit is harvested, but most say it tastes like dragon fruit or even passion fruit.
Epiphyllum Cactus Seed Info
Epiphyllum flowers have a similar structure to any other bloom. The ovary is at the heart of the flower and will foster the formation of the fruit or seed pod. The petals on Epiphyllum are arranged differently, depending upon the variety. Some are cup-shaped, others bell-shaped and still others funnel-shaped. The arrangement of the petals may be irregular or spoke-like. Once the pollen tipped stamen are ripe, busy insects move from flower to flower, transferring the pollen. If you are lucky and your cactus flowers get pollinated and fertilized, the bloom will drop off and the ovule will begin to swell and turn into Epiphyllum seed pods or fruit. The pods on Epiphyllum plants are the result of a successful fertilization. They are round to oval slightly bumpy bright red fruits, filled with soft pulp and small black seeds. Is Epiphyllum fruit edible? Most cactus fruits are edible and Epiphyllyum is no exception. Epiphyllum cactus fruit have variable flavor, depending upon the cultivar and when the fruit is harvested, but most say it tastes like dragon fruit or even passion fruit.
Epiphyllum Cactus Seed Info
The pods on Epiphyllum plants are edible. The best taste seems to be when they are plump and bright red. Once the fruit begins to shrivel, the seeds are ready to harvest, but the flavor will be off. Epiphyllum seed pods need to have the pulp scooped out in order to harvest the seed. Soak the pulp in water and scoop the pulp. Any floating seeds provide important Epiphyllum cactus seed info, as these are duds and not viable. They should be discarded. Once all the pulp and bad seeds are out, drain off the good seeds and let them air dry. They are now ready to plant.
Growing Epiphyllum Seeds
Create a growing medium of potting soil, peat and fine grit. Choose a shallow container in which to germinate the seeds. Spread the seed across the surface of the soil and then lightly sprinkle some soil mixture over them. Mist the surface deeply and then cover the container with a lid to keep in moisture and promote heat. Once the seedlings have appeared, grow the plants in a bright location with indirect light. Keep the babies lightly moist and remove the cover occasionally to allow them to breathe. Once they are too tall for the lid, you can dispense with it and allow them to continue growing for 7 to 10 months. Then it is time to repot them individually. It can take 5 more years before the new plants bloom, but the wait is worth it as you watch the plant develop.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月17日
Christmas cactus (Schlumbergera bridgesii) is a popular winter-flowering houseplant that usually blooms over the holidays at the end of the calendar year. Varieties offer flowers in many different shades. Native to Brazil, Christmas cacti are epiphytes that grow in tree branches in rain forests. Since their stems hang down, they are perfect plants for hanging baskets. If a stem of your mature Christmas cactus is getting woody, it doesn’t mean that anything is amiss. That means that there is no reason to try fixing a Christmas cactus with woody stems. Read on for more information about woody Christmas cactus.
Woody Christmas Cactus Stems
A Christmas cactus that is cared for properly will last a long time, a quarter century or even longer. Ideal Christmas cactus growing conditions include light shade in summer and full sunlight during fall and winter. Too much sun in summer pales or yellows the plants. Christmas cactus plants generally grow large with age. As the plant gets older and bigger, and the base of the stems get woody. There is no need to think about fixing a Christmas cactus with woody stems. This is a perfectly natural condition and woody Christmas stems indicate a healthy plant.
Care of Old Christmas Cactus
If you buy or inherit an old Christmas cactus, it is likely a large plant. Proper care of old Christmas cactus includes cutting back overgrown branches and, sometimes, repotting the plant. One of the first steps in care of old Christmas cactus is a good trim of the branches. When the branches become too long and heavy, they are likely to break off, so it’s better if you trim instead. This is especially true if the leaves look shriveled, thin or limp at the ends. Trim the branches back by clipping at the segment joints. For overgrown cactus, cut each branch back by at least a third and up to three-quarters of its length. If a branch of the Christmas cactus is getting woody at the base, you can even cut it all the way back to the woody section. New green sections will grow from the wood.
Woody Christmas Cactus Stems
A Christmas cactus that is cared for properly will last a long time, a quarter century or even longer. Ideal Christmas cactus growing conditions include light shade in summer and full sunlight during fall and winter. Too much sun in summer pales or yellows the plants. Christmas cactus plants generally grow large with age. As the plant gets older and bigger, and the base of the stems get woody. There is no need to think about fixing a Christmas cactus with woody stems. This is a perfectly natural condition and woody Christmas stems indicate a healthy plant.
Care of Old Christmas Cactus
If you buy or inherit an old Christmas cactus, it is likely a large plant. Proper care of old Christmas cactus includes cutting back overgrown branches and, sometimes, repotting the plant. One of the first steps in care of old Christmas cactus is a good trim of the branches. When the branches become too long and heavy, they are likely to break off, so it’s better if you trim instead. This is especially true if the leaves look shriveled, thin or limp at the ends. Trim the branches back by clipping at the segment joints. For overgrown cactus, cut each branch back by at least a third and up to three-quarters of its length. If a branch of the Christmas cactus is getting woody at the base, you can even cut it all the way back to the woody section. New green sections will grow from the wood.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月17日
Christmas cactus is a jungle cactus that prefers humidity and moisture, unlike its standard cactus cousins, which require a warm, arid climate. A winter-bloomer, Christmas cactus displays flowers in shades of red, lavender, rose, purple, white, peach, cream and orange, depending on the variety. These prolific growers eventually need to be repotted. Repotting Christmas cactus isn’t complicated, but the key is knowing when and how to repot a Christmas cactus.
When to Repot Christmas Cactus
Most plants are best repotted when they display new growth in spring, but Christmas cactus repotting should be done after blooming ends and the flowers have wilted in late winter or early spring. Never attempt to repot the plant while it is actively blooming. Don’t rush to repot Christmas cactus because this hardy succulent is happiest when its roots are slightly crowded. Frequent repotting can damage the plant. Repotting Christmas cactus every three to four years is usually adequate, but you may prefer to wait until the plant begins to look tired or you notice a few roots growing through the drainage hole. Often, a plant can bloom happily in the same pot for years.
How to Repot a Christmas Cactus
Here are some Christmas cactus potting tips that will help you find success: Take your time because repotting a Christmas cactus can be tricky. A lightweight, well-drained potting mixture is critical, so look for a commercial mix for bromeliads or succulents. You can also use a mixture of two-thirds regular potting soil and one-third sand. Repot Christmas cactus into a pot only slightly larger than the current container. Be sure the container has a drainage hole in the bottom. Although Christmas cactus likes moisture, it will soon rot if the roots are deprived of air. Remove the plant from its pot, along with the surrounding soil ball, and then gently loosen the roots. If the potting mix is compacted, gently wash it away from the roots with a little water. Replant the Christmas cactus in the new pot so the top of the root ball is about an inch below the rim of the pot. Fill in around the roots with fresh potting mix and pat the soil lightly to remove air pockets. Water it moderately. Put the plant in a shady location for two or three days, then resume the plant’s normal care rout
When to Repot Christmas Cactus
Most plants are best repotted when they display new growth in spring, but Christmas cactus repotting should be done after blooming ends and the flowers have wilted in late winter or early spring. Never attempt to repot the plant while it is actively blooming. Don’t rush to repot Christmas cactus because this hardy succulent is happiest when its roots are slightly crowded. Frequent repotting can damage the plant. Repotting Christmas cactus every three to four years is usually adequate, but you may prefer to wait until the plant begins to look tired or you notice a few roots growing through the drainage hole. Often, a plant can bloom happily in the same pot for years.
How to Repot a Christmas Cactus
Here are some Christmas cactus potting tips that will help you find success: Take your time because repotting a Christmas cactus can be tricky. A lightweight, well-drained potting mixture is critical, so look for a commercial mix for bromeliads or succulents. You can also use a mixture of two-thirds regular potting soil and one-third sand. Repot Christmas cactus into a pot only slightly larger than the current container. Be sure the container has a drainage hole in the bottom. Although Christmas cactus likes moisture, it will soon rot if the roots are deprived of air. Remove the plant from its pot, along with the surrounding soil ball, and then gently loosen the roots. If the potting mix is compacted, gently wash it away from the roots with a little water. Replant the Christmas cactus in the new pot so the top of the root ball is about an inch below the rim of the pot. Fill in around the roots with fresh potting mix and pat the soil lightly to remove air pockets. Water it moderately. Put the plant in a shady location for two or three days, then resume the plant’s normal care rout
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月17日
Christmas cactus is a long-lived plant with bright blooms that appear around the winter holidays. Normally, blooms last at least one to two weeks. If conditions are just right, the impressive flowers may hang around for seven to eight weeks. Although the plant is relatively low-maintenance, dropping or wilting Christmas cactus blooms are usually an indication of improper watering or sudden temperature changes.
Flower Wilt on Christmas Cactus
Christmas cactus bloom wilt is often caused by excessively dry soil. Be careful and don’t over-correct, as watering a Christmas cactus can be tricky and too much moisture may cause more serious problems, such as stem or root rot, which are usually deadly. For most of the year, you shouldn’t water the plant until the soil feels slightly dry, and then water deeply so the entire root ball is saturated. Let the pot drain thoroughly before replacing the plant on a drainage saucer. However, it’s important to note that slightly different tactics are needed when the plant begins to bloom. During the blooming period, water just enough to keep the potting mix consistently moist, but never soggy or bone dry. Don’t water deeply during this time, as soggy roots may cause blooms to wilt and drop. Don’t fertilize the plant while it is blooming either. From October on through winter, Christmas cactus prefers cool nighttime temperatures between 55 and 65 F. (12-18 C) during the blooming period. Keep the plant away from cold drafts, as well as fireplaces or heat vents. Christmas cactus also needs relatively high humidity, which replicates its natural, tropical environment.
If the air in your home is dry during the winter months, place the pot on top of a layer of pebbles in a plate or tray, then keep the pebbles moist to increase the humidity around the plant. Be sure the pot is standing on the moist pebbles and not in the water, as water wicking into the soil through the drainage hole can cause the roots to rot.
Flower Wilt on Christmas Cactus
Christmas cactus bloom wilt is often caused by excessively dry soil. Be careful and don’t over-correct, as watering a Christmas cactus can be tricky and too much moisture may cause more serious problems, such as stem or root rot, which are usually deadly. For most of the year, you shouldn’t water the plant until the soil feels slightly dry, and then water deeply so the entire root ball is saturated. Let the pot drain thoroughly before replacing the plant on a drainage saucer. However, it’s important to note that slightly different tactics are needed when the plant begins to bloom. During the blooming period, water just enough to keep the potting mix consistently moist, but never soggy or bone dry. Don’t water deeply during this time, as soggy roots may cause blooms to wilt and drop. Don’t fertilize the plant while it is blooming either. From October on through winter, Christmas cactus prefers cool nighttime temperatures between 55 and 65 F. (12-18 C) during the blooming period. Keep the plant away from cold drafts, as well as fireplaces or heat vents. Christmas cactus also needs relatively high humidity, which replicates its natural, tropical environment.
If the air in your home is dry during the winter months, place the pot on top of a layer of pebbles in a plate or tray, then keep the pebbles moist to increase the humidity around the plant. Be sure the pot is standing on the moist pebbles and not in the water, as water wicking into the soil through the drainage hole can cause the roots to rot.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月17日
Christmas cacti are common gifts around the holidays. They tend to bloom in the winter, with showy flowers present for friends and family to admire as they attend winter festivities. The presence of small children and pets at family functions reminds us that not all plants are safe. Is Christmas cactus toxic? Read on to find out and help protect your pets from any Christmas cactus toxicity.
Is Christmas Cactus Toxic?
The bright salmon to red flowers and intricate pads are characteristic of the Christmas cacti, which tends to bloom around Christmas and gives them their name. The plant is not a true cactus, however, but an epiphyte. It needs bright light and well-drained soil, with moderate water needs. To ensure blooming, withhold water in October and gradually resume again in November. Good news! Unlike many of the holiday plants, Christmas cactus toxicity is not damaging. Mistletoe, holly (berries) and poinsettia are also common during the winter holidays and do have some toxic components, but it is safe to have the Christmas cactus in your home. It isn’t even spiny, so you don’t have to worry about sharp pointy things hurting mouthy dogs and curious cats.
Care of Christmas Cactus Around Pets
Christmas cactus is native to Central and South America. They are classed as Zygocactus, a form of epiphyte that has a similar appearance to traditionally recognized cacti. Epiphytes don’t need a soil based medium to live in but can survive in tree crotches and rocky depressions where organic material has collected and composted down to a rich humic base. Most Christmas cacti are sold in a soil medium which is well-draining. Care of Christmas cactus around pets is similar to that of any tropical plant. They require deep watering followed by allowing the top few inches of soil to dry out before applying moisture anew. The key to achieving bright blooms each year is to allow the plant to dry out in fall and winter. Move the plant to where it receives bright light and ensure temperatures are fairly cool. Ideal temperatures for flowering are 50 degrees Fahrenheit (10 C). Apply a 0-10-10 fertilizer in October to early November and reapply in February. Although, it is best to train animals not to sample plants in the home, no harm will come to them if they want to try a flower or a bite of foliage. Christmas cactus and pets make perfect housemates as long as your animal doesn’t over eat the plant and destroy its health. Christmas cactus and pets can coexist in harmony in the home but preventive measures on other holiday plants should be taken. Place plants, such as poinsettia, up high where animals can’t reach them. If the family pet is especially persistent, spray the plant with cayenne pepper dissolved in water. The spicy taste will make Fido or Kitty think twice about approaching any plant and avoid poisoning but also safeguard the plant from teething damage and foliar death.
Is Christmas Cactus Toxic?
The bright salmon to red flowers and intricate pads are characteristic of the Christmas cacti, which tends to bloom around Christmas and gives them their name. The plant is not a true cactus, however, but an epiphyte. It needs bright light and well-drained soil, with moderate water needs. To ensure blooming, withhold water in October and gradually resume again in November. Good news! Unlike many of the holiday plants, Christmas cactus toxicity is not damaging. Mistletoe, holly (berries) and poinsettia are also common during the winter holidays and do have some toxic components, but it is safe to have the Christmas cactus in your home. It isn’t even spiny, so you don’t have to worry about sharp pointy things hurting mouthy dogs and curious cats.
Care of Christmas Cactus Around Pets
Christmas cactus is native to Central and South America. They are classed as Zygocactus, a form of epiphyte that has a similar appearance to traditionally recognized cacti. Epiphytes don’t need a soil based medium to live in but can survive in tree crotches and rocky depressions where organic material has collected and composted down to a rich humic base. Most Christmas cacti are sold in a soil medium which is well-draining. Care of Christmas cactus around pets is similar to that of any tropical plant. They require deep watering followed by allowing the top few inches of soil to dry out before applying moisture anew. The key to achieving bright blooms each year is to allow the plant to dry out in fall and winter. Move the plant to where it receives bright light and ensure temperatures are fairly cool. Ideal temperatures for flowering are 50 degrees Fahrenheit (10 C). Apply a 0-10-10 fertilizer in October to early November and reapply in February. Although, it is best to train animals not to sample plants in the home, no harm will come to them if they want to try a flower or a bite of foliage. Christmas cactus and pets make perfect housemates as long as your animal doesn’t over eat the plant and destroy its health. Christmas cactus and pets can coexist in harmony in the home but preventive measures on other holiday plants should be taken. Place plants, such as poinsettia, up high where animals can’t reach them. If the family pet is especially persistent, spray the plant with cayenne pepper dissolved in water. The spicy taste will make Fido or Kitty think twice about approaching any plant and avoid poisoning but also safeguard the plant from teething damage and foliar death.
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Miss Chen
2017年08月15日
To brighten your summer garden with vividly colored flowers, include zinnias (Zinnia elegans) when choosing plants. An old-fashioned favorite that's especially easy-to-grow, the zinnia plant produces masses of colorful blossom throughout summer and early fall. Zinnias grow as annuals in all parts of the United States, thriving in any sunny spot when given just basic care and some trimming now and then.
Off to a Good Start
Start zinnias indoors from seeds four to six weeks before your last frost date, or direct-sow zinnia seeds in the garden once temperatures remain above about 60 degrees Fahrenheit. It's important to give plants enough space to grow without crowding, so thin direct-sown seedlings or space indoor-grown seedlings to allow about 6 inches between shorter varieties and about 12 inches between plants for types that become 2 or more feet tall.
To ensure season-long flowers, sow more seed every two or three weeks until early summer; new plants will produce healthy flower buds when the first plants are beginning to slow their growth and shut down flower production as fall approaches.
Watering and Feeding
Water newly planted zinnias frequently during the first week or two, keeping the soil evenly moist until roots become established. Then water whenever soil feels dry an inch or two below the surface, aiming for about 1 inch of water each week, including rain. Adding 3 or 4 inches of organic mulch such as straw or shredded bark under each plant's canopy also helps conserve soil moisture while keeping down weeds, but keep the mulch back a few inches from each plant's base to discourage fungal growth.
Fertilizing zinnias helps keep new flower buds coming non-stop through most of the season. Give an initial feeding when seedlings are about 4 inches tall, using a 5-10-5, water-soluble formula. Dilute the fertilizer to 1/4 strength, or 1/4 teaspoon per 4 gallons of water, but check your product label for additional directions. Feed again in mid-summer to keep the plants growing and flowering as long as possible.
Trimming and Deadheading
Zinnias are naturally bushy plants, especially when grown in full sun, but pinching out new growth on young plants helps promote extra branching, making plants even fuller and providing more stems that produce blossoms. If you do this when shoots are young and tender, you can pinch out soft new growth with your fingers. To trim back slightly larger stems, use sharp shears, disinfecting the blades by wiping them with rubbing alcohol between cuts to discourage spread of plant disease.
As flowers fade on zinnia plants, cut these off just ahead of the first set of leaves on the flower stem -- called deadheading. This helps spur production of new flower buds on the remaining stems and also helps keep the plant looking tidy. Because zinnias are annuals, they don't survive winter, but leaving a few spent flowers on the plant allows seeds to mature that can drop to the ground. These may produce new, "volunteer" seedlings the following spring.
Preventing Problems
Zinnias are susceptible to several fungal disorders, including powdery mildew, which makes zinnia leaves look whitish and sprinkled with powder. Eventually, leaves turn brown, then dry up and fall from the plant. Mildew is best prevented by choosing mildew-resistant varieties, spacing plants properly and watering plants with a soaker hose or drip irrigation that helps keep foliage dry.
Zinnias can attract a few pests, including Japanese beetles and some caterpillars that chew foliage, slowing plant growth and potentially stopping flower development. Destroy these pests by handpicking them. You might also see whiteflies, tiny white flying insects, and soft-bodied, yellowish aphids; these insects suck plant juices and slow flowering. Rid the plant of these pests by spraying it until dripping with insecticidal soap, diluted at a rate of 5 tablespoons per gallon of water. Repeat the spray every two weeks as needed.
Off to a Good Start
Start zinnias indoors from seeds four to six weeks before your last frost date, or direct-sow zinnia seeds in the garden once temperatures remain above about 60 degrees Fahrenheit. It's important to give plants enough space to grow without crowding, so thin direct-sown seedlings or space indoor-grown seedlings to allow about 6 inches between shorter varieties and about 12 inches between plants for types that become 2 or more feet tall.
To ensure season-long flowers, sow more seed every two or three weeks until early summer; new plants will produce healthy flower buds when the first plants are beginning to slow their growth and shut down flower production as fall approaches.
Watering and Feeding
Water newly planted zinnias frequently during the first week or two, keeping the soil evenly moist until roots become established. Then water whenever soil feels dry an inch or two below the surface, aiming for about 1 inch of water each week, including rain. Adding 3 or 4 inches of organic mulch such as straw or shredded bark under each plant's canopy also helps conserve soil moisture while keeping down weeds, but keep the mulch back a few inches from each plant's base to discourage fungal growth.
Fertilizing zinnias helps keep new flower buds coming non-stop through most of the season. Give an initial feeding when seedlings are about 4 inches tall, using a 5-10-5, water-soluble formula. Dilute the fertilizer to 1/4 strength, or 1/4 teaspoon per 4 gallons of water, but check your product label for additional directions. Feed again in mid-summer to keep the plants growing and flowering as long as possible.
Trimming and Deadheading
Zinnias are naturally bushy plants, especially when grown in full sun, but pinching out new growth on young plants helps promote extra branching, making plants even fuller and providing more stems that produce blossoms. If you do this when shoots are young and tender, you can pinch out soft new growth with your fingers. To trim back slightly larger stems, use sharp shears, disinfecting the blades by wiping them with rubbing alcohol between cuts to discourage spread of plant disease.
As flowers fade on zinnia plants, cut these off just ahead of the first set of leaves on the flower stem -- called deadheading. This helps spur production of new flower buds on the remaining stems and also helps keep the plant looking tidy. Because zinnias are annuals, they don't survive winter, but leaving a few spent flowers on the plant allows seeds to mature that can drop to the ground. These may produce new, "volunteer" seedlings the following spring.
Preventing Problems
Zinnias are susceptible to several fungal disorders, including powdery mildew, which makes zinnia leaves look whitish and sprinkled with powder. Eventually, leaves turn brown, then dry up and fall from the plant. Mildew is best prevented by choosing mildew-resistant varieties, spacing plants properly and watering plants with a soaker hose or drip irrigation that helps keep foliage dry.
Zinnias can attract a few pests, including Japanese beetles and some caterpillars that chew foliage, slowing plant growth and potentially stopping flower development. Destroy these pests by handpicking them. You might also see whiteflies, tiny white flying insects, and soft-bodied, yellowish aphids; these insects suck plant juices and slow flowering. Rid the plant of these pests by spraying it until dripping with insecticidal soap, diluted at a rate of 5 tablespoons per gallon of water. Repeat the spray every two weeks as needed.
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Miss Chen
2017年08月15日
With their showy flowers and low-maintenance needs, bottlebrush trees (Callistemon spp.) are often chosen in warm growing zones for hedges or statement plants. They grow best in full sun and soil with low alkalinity, but other than that aren't very picky about where you plant them.
Soil Preparation
Bottlebrush thrive in a wide variety of soil conditions, except for highly alkaline soil. They will tolerate slightly alkaline soils, but high alkalinity results in chlorosis, which turns the plant's leaves yellow. Soils with a pH higher than 7.5 have moderate or high alkalinity. You should test the soil pH before planting bottlebrush plants.
You can stabilize the pH of some soil types, but there is no way to permanently lower the alkalinity of soils with a high concentration of lime. Test lime content by placing about 1 tablespoon of dry soil in a cup and moistening it with white vinegar. If the soil bubbles, it contains too much lime to amend the soil sufficiently. If it does not bubble, regularly adding organic amendments can decrease the alkalinity enough to grow bottlebrushes.
Amend soils before planting with an organic amendment low in mineral salts, such as plant-based composts and sphagnum peat moss. This will help stabilize the soil pH and improve soil texture, even in soils that do not test as alkaline. Spread a layer of amendment 2 to 3 inches deep over the planting surface, and work it in to a depth of 6 to 8 inches. If you're using organic matter to lower soil pH, apply this same amount each year for the next three years, then apply 1 to 2 inches each year after that.
Planting Tips
Dig a planting hole 1 to 2 inches shallower than the rootball and three times as wide. This prevents trees from settling too deep in the soil after planting and provides loose soil on either side for new roots to grow. Remove the container and set the tree in the hole, then fill in around the plant with the same soil you dug out of the planting hole. When you're done, you want the tree at the same depth it was previously growing or slightly higher than the surrounding soil, with the soil sloped up to meet the top of the rootball.
When digging planting holes for multiple trees, space far enough apart to allow for the tree's mature size. For instance, red bottlebrush (Callistemon citrinus, U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 9a through 11) grows 10 to 15 feet tall and wide, and weeping bottlebrush (Callistemon viminalis, USDA zones 9b through 11) grows 15 to 20 feet. Spacing them 4 to 9 feet apart gives them room to grow with some overlap. Dwarf bottlebrush (Callistemon citrinus 'Little John,' USDA zones 8 through 11) grows only 5 feet wide so you can plant them 2 feet apart.
In their preferred growing zones, bottlebrush can be planted year-round. You'll just have to make sure that you can supply adequate water for the new roots. In Florida, for example, it's easier to plant during the cooler fall, winter and spring than trying to supply enough water to keep the soil moist during hot summers.
After-Planting Care
Right after planting, water thoroughly to settle the soil. If the soil level drops after watering, add more soil and water again. For the first year after planting, water regularly to keep the soil moist. Bottlebrush are native to damp locations and are more likely to establish deep root systems if you give them plenty of water.
After they are well-established, most bottlebrush varieties are drought tolerant and need very little supplemental watering. The exception is weeping bottlebrush, which requires plenty of water to keep the soil moist.
To keep them growing and flowering well, fertilize bottlebrush with a low-phosphorous fertilizer. Phosphorous is represented by the middle number in a fertilizer's N-P-K ratio, so look for fertilizers with a lower number in the middle. For example, apply a dry slow-release fertilizer with an N-P-K ratio of 12-4-8 by scattering 1 tablespoon per square foot of soil surface. Do this twice a year, once in the spring and once in the fall.
Soil Preparation
Bottlebrush thrive in a wide variety of soil conditions, except for highly alkaline soil. They will tolerate slightly alkaline soils, but high alkalinity results in chlorosis, which turns the plant's leaves yellow. Soils with a pH higher than 7.5 have moderate or high alkalinity. You should test the soil pH before planting bottlebrush plants.
You can stabilize the pH of some soil types, but there is no way to permanently lower the alkalinity of soils with a high concentration of lime. Test lime content by placing about 1 tablespoon of dry soil in a cup and moistening it with white vinegar. If the soil bubbles, it contains too much lime to amend the soil sufficiently. If it does not bubble, regularly adding organic amendments can decrease the alkalinity enough to grow bottlebrushes.
Amend soils before planting with an organic amendment low in mineral salts, such as plant-based composts and sphagnum peat moss. This will help stabilize the soil pH and improve soil texture, even in soils that do not test as alkaline. Spread a layer of amendment 2 to 3 inches deep over the planting surface, and work it in to a depth of 6 to 8 inches. If you're using organic matter to lower soil pH, apply this same amount each year for the next three years, then apply 1 to 2 inches each year after that.
Planting Tips
Dig a planting hole 1 to 2 inches shallower than the rootball and three times as wide. This prevents trees from settling too deep in the soil after planting and provides loose soil on either side for new roots to grow. Remove the container and set the tree in the hole, then fill in around the plant with the same soil you dug out of the planting hole. When you're done, you want the tree at the same depth it was previously growing or slightly higher than the surrounding soil, with the soil sloped up to meet the top of the rootball.
When digging planting holes for multiple trees, space far enough apart to allow for the tree's mature size. For instance, red bottlebrush (Callistemon citrinus, U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 9a through 11) grows 10 to 15 feet tall and wide, and weeping bottlebrush (Callistemon viminalis, USDA zones 9b through 11) grows 15 to 20 feet. Spacing them 4 to 9 feet apart gives them room to grow with some overlap. Dwarf bottlebrush (Callistemon citrinus 'Little John,' USDA zones 8 through 11) grows only 5 feet wide so you can plant them 2 feet apart.
In their preferred growing zones, bottlebrush can be planted year-round. You'll just have to make sure that you can supply adequate water for the new roots. In Florida, for example, it's easier to plant during the cooler fall, winter and spring than trying to supply enough water to keep the soil moist during hot summers.
After-Planting Care
Right after planting, water thoroughly to settle the soil. If the soil level drops after watering, add more soil and water again. For the first year after planting, water regularly to keep the soil moist. Bottlebrush are native to damp locations and are more likely to establish deep root systems if you give them plenty of water.
After they are well-established, most bottlebrush varieties are drought tolerant and need very little supplemental watering. The exception is weeping bottlebrush, which requires plenty of water to keep the soil moist.
To keep them growing and flowering well, fertilize bottlebrush with a low-phosphorous fertilizer. Phosphorous is represented by the middle number in a fertilizer's N-P-K ratio, so look for fertilizers with a lower number in the middle. For example, apply a dry slow-release fertilizer with an N-P-K ratio of 12-4-8 by scattering 1 tablespoon per square foot of soil surface. Do this twice a year, once in the spring and once in the fall.
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文章
Miss Chen
2017年08月15日
The genus Hibiscus contains perennial and tropical species; the hibiscus trees are typically tropical hibiscuses (Hibiscus rosa-sinensis). These plants add an island feel to any landscape or home. The flowers, which come in an artist's palette of colors, reach up to 6 inches in diameter. The tree form is a common offering at nurseries and plant centers, particularly in mid- to late-spring. Caring for these tropical plants isn't always difficult, but they are picky when it comes to certain requirements.
Keep It Hot
Tropical hibiscus is hardy in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 9 and 10, although even these warmer climates can cause trouble. Native to tropical areas of Asia, these showy plants can't handle extreme changes in temperature. For much of the U.S., these plants will thrive during the summer but need to come inside if you want to overwinter them. If 90 degrees Fahrenheit or hotter, move your braided hibiscus tree to a partly shaded spot to protect it from the hot afternoon sun. If temperatures are going to fall below 45 degrees F at night, move the plant to a protected area such as a garage or inside.
Protective Pots
Potted hibiscuses tend to do better than ground-planted hibiscuses, primarily because of their tendency to be picky about moisture, acidity and temperature. Ideally, the pot should have at least four drainage holes. Black plastic pots, common in the nursery industry, can heat up too much. Ceramic or clay, while more expensive, is a better material for your hibiscus. Growers often use a mix of 5 percent perlite, 50 percent peat or coco fiber, and 45 percent composted bark as a growing medium. Repot into the next larger size of pot when the roots begin wrapping around each other. Place a small amount of new potting mix in the bottom of the new pot, disturb the root system of your hibiscus with your fingers, and place it into the pot. The top of the root ball should be approximately 1 inch below the rim of the pot. Fill the pot with fresh potting mix, and work it in gently with your fingers to get it to settle; press the top of the soil firmly around the hibiscus and water thoroughly.
Food and Drink
Applications of a water-soluble fertilizer specifically designed for tropical hibiscus is an ideal fertilizer for these plants. These fertilizers have low phosphorus, and often an N-P-K ratio of 9-3-13 or 10-4-12. Water your potted hibiscus thoroughly and apply 1 teaspoon of granular 10-4-12 hibiscus food for 6- to 12-inch pots, or 2 teaspoons for 14-inch or larger pots; water again after application. Feed once per month or every six weeks. Hibiscus plants can't handle being waterlogged; allow the soil to dry before watering. Water more frequently in hot weather.
In the Ground
Choose a location with well-drained soil if you live in an area that stays warm enough -- USDA zones 9 and 10 -- to plant your hibiscus tree outside in the ground. Clay soils will remain too waterlogged for these tropical plants; sand soils will drain too quickly. When in doubt, plant in a raised bed. Water frequently when temperatures are hot, keeping the root system in moist soil.
Maintaining Your Plant
Pruning hibiscus trees is an option, although not always necessary. A selective prune is often the best option for hibiscus and hibiscus trees. Prune in autumn as you bring your potted plant indoors for the winter. Prune older branches down to the second or third nodes, the small nubs where new branches or leaves come out. As for pests, hibiscus is prone to white flies and mites in particular. To control them, smother with insecticidal soap, an organic-safe insecticide. Spray the leaves thoroughly, including the undersides, and the stems -- anywhere these small pests are present. Repeat every two or three weeks until the infestation is gone.
Keep It Hot
Tropical hibiscus is hardy in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 9 and 10, although even these warmer climates can cause trouble. Native to tropical areas of Asia, these showy plants can't handle extreme changes in temperature. For much of the U.S., these plants will thrive during the summer but need to come inside if you want to overwinter them. If 90 degrees Fahrenheit or hotter, move your braided hibiscus tree to a partly shaded spot to protect it from the hot afternoon sun. If temperatures are going to fall below 45 degrees F at night, move the plant to a protected area such as a garage or inside.
Protective Pots
Potted hibiscuses tend to do better than ground-planted hibiscuses, primarily because of their tendency to be picky about moisture, acidity and temperature. Ideally, the pot should have at least four drainage holes. Black plastic pots, common in the nursery industry, can heat up too much. Ceramic or clay, while more expensive, is a better material for your hibiscus. Growers often use a mix of 5 percent perlite, 50 percent peat or coco fiber, and 45 percent composted bark as a growing medium. Repot into the next larger size of pot when the roots begin wrapping around each other. Place a small amount of new potting mix in the bottom of the new pot, disturb the root system of your hibiscus with your fingers, and place it into the pot. The top of the root ball should be approximately 1 inch below the rim of the pot. Fill the pot with fresh potting mix, and work it in gently with your fingers to get it to settle; press the top of the soil firmly around the hibiscus and water thoroughly.
Food and Drink
Applications of a water-soluble fertilizer specifically designed for tropical hibiscus is an ideal fertilizer for these plants. These fertilizers have low phosphorus, and often an N-P-K ratio of 9-3-13 or 10-4-12. Water your potted hibiscus thoroughly and apply 1 teaspoon of granular 10-4-12 hibiscus food for 6- to 12-inch pots, or 2 teaspoons for 14-inch or larger pots; water again after application. Feed once per month or every six weeks. Hibiscus plants can't handle being waterlogged; allow the soil to dry before watering. Water more frequently in hot weather.
In the Ground
Choose a location with well-drained soil if you live in an area that stays warm enough -- USDA zones 9 and 10 -- to plant your hibiscus tree outside in the ground. Clay soils will remain too waterlogged for these tropical plants; sand soils will drain too quickly. When in doubt, plant in a raised bed. Water frequently when temperatures are hot, keeping the root system in moist soil.
Maintaining Your Plant
Pruning hibiscus trees is an option, although not always necessary. A selective prune is often the best option for hibiscus and hibiscus trees. Prune in autumn as you bring your potted plant indoors for the winter. Prune older branches down to the second or third nodes, the small nubs where new branches or leaves come out. As for pests, hibiscus is prone to white flies and mites in particular. To control them, smother with insecticidal soap, an organic-safe insecticide. Spray the leaves thoroughly, including the undersides, and the stems -- anywhere these small pests are present. Repeat every two or three weeks until the infestation is gone.
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