文章
Miss Chen
2017年08月15日
Vinca, also known as catharanthus or Madagascar periwinkle, is a popular annual flower. Growing upwards to 10 to 16 inches tall, with dark green leaves and five-petal blossoms in pink, mauve or white, these flowers spread quickly and require little care. While vincas have few problems, occasionally they will suddenly wilt and die.
Symptoms and Causes
According to the Alabama Agricultural Experiment Station and Clemson University Extension, there are several diseases and fungus that can cause vincas to wilt, including phytophthora stem blight and root rot, pythium root rot, rhizoctonia stem and root rot, gray mold and the tomato spotted wilt virus. Symptoms of these diseases and fungus include dark colored lesions on the stems and branches, yellowing leaves with stunted growth, spots on the foliage, gray mold on the plant or black concentric rings on the leaves.
Many of these diseases and fungus are prevalent in soil that has poor drainage or gardens that have been watered incorrectly.
Prevention and Treatment
Select healthy vinca to plant in the garden. Enrich the garden's soil with well-rotted manure or compost before planting to help increase the soil's moisture-retention. Do not plant the vinca deeply and space 8 to 12 inches apart to allow for air circulation. Vincas need about 1 inch of water each week; if rainfall is insufficient, avoid overhead irrigation systems and water deeply in the early morning to allow the plants time to dry before nightfall.
Remove and destroy any affected plants. Treat the remaining plants with a fungicide; contact your local extension office to determine which fungicide is needed.
Symptoms and Causes
According to the Alabama Agricultural Experiment Station and Clemson University Extension, there are several diseases and fungus that can cause vincas to wilt, including phytophthora stem blight and root rot, pythium root rot, rhizoctonia stem and root rot, gray mold and the tomato spotted wilt virus. Symptoms of these diseases and fungus include dark colored lesions on the stems and branches, yellowing leaves with stunted growth, spots on the foliage, gray mold on the plant or black concentric rings on the leaves.
Many of these diseases and fungus are prevalent in soil that has poor drainage or gardens that have been watered incorrectly.
Prevention and Treatment
Select healthy vinca to plant in the garden. Enrich the garden's soil with well-rotted manure or compost before planting to help increase the soil's moisture-retention. Do not plant the vinca deeply and space 8 to 12 inches apart to allow for air circulation. Vincas need about 1 inch of water each week; if rainfall is insufficient, avoid overhead irrigation systems and water deeply in the early morning to allow the plants time to dry before nightfall.
Remove and destroy any affected plants. Treat the remaining plants with a fungicide; contact your local extension office to determine which fungicide is needed.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月15日
Aristolochia paucinervis can be found in damp ditches in the western Mediterranean and is not as widespread and common as Aristolochia baetica. It flowers from February through to the end of July.
The plants of the Aristolochiaceae family attract their pollinators (flies) by exuding a strong smell from their flowers which are typically saxaphone-shaped. When the flies crawl down into the flowers, they are trapped by the hairs that surround the 'mouth' and remain, crawling around, inside the flower overnight. By the following morning the hairs have withered and the flies, now covered with pollen, are able to escape and move on to other flowers and so complete the pollination cycle.
The plants of the Aristolochiaceae family attract their pollinators (flies) by exuding a strong smell from their flowers which are typically saxaphone-shaped. When the flies crawl down into the flowers, they are trapped by the hairs that surround the 'mouth' and remain, crawling around, inside the flower overnight. By the following morning the hairs have withered and the flies, now covered with pollen, are able to escape and move on to other flowers and so complete the pollination cycle.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月15日
The flowers of Anemone heldreichii are white and sometimes flushed with pale pink. The reverse of the petals may be either bluish or pink.
Distribution
This Mediterranean member of the Buttercup family (ranunculaceae) grows in Karpathos, Crete and on the Ionian islands.
Although these lovely wildflowers look very attractive, like most if not all Anemone species they are poisonous.
Habitat and Blooming Times
This lovely wildflower favours shaded sites in the dry Mediterranean region to which it is native and where it blooms from January through to the end of April.
Etymology
Anemone comes from Greek and literally means 'daughter of the wind', although many other explanations have been put forward as the intended meaning of the name Anemone. The specific eopithet heldreichii was selected in honour of the 19th century German botanist Theodor von Heldreich.
Distribution
This Mediterranean member of the Buttercup family (ranunculaceae) grows in Karpathos, Crete and on the Ionian islands.
Although these lovely wildflowers look very attractive, like most if not all Anemone species they are poisonous.
Habitat and Blooming Times
This lovely wildflower favours shaded sites in the dry Mediterranean region to which it is native and where it blooms from January through to the end of April.
Etymology
Anemone comes from Greek and literally means 'daughter of the wind', although many other explanations have been put forward as the intended meaning of the name Anemone. The specific eopithet heldreichii was selected in honour of the 19th century German botanist Theodor von Heldreich.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月15日
There are many visual similarities between populations of Orchis anatolica, Orchis quadripunctata and Orchis sitiaca, but it is the smaller flowers and flat lip that are the main distinguishing features which separate O. anatolica from the other two.
Description
Orchis anatolica grows up to 40cm tall and has 2-6 dark green basal leaves which are sometimes marked with purple. There are smaller bract-like leave higher up the stem which is washed red. The lax inforescence carries between 2-15 flowers which are pink-to-purple, occasionally white. The 3 lobed lip is convex and is marked with dark purple spots.
Distribution
The Anatolian Orchid occurs in various parts of the eastern Mediterranean including Crete, Rhodes, Karpathos, Kasos, Cyprus and mainland Greece. There is some confusion surrounding the identification of the plants found in Crete which may be the result of hybridisation between O. anatolica and O. quadripunctata.
Habitat
The plant grows in open woodland and scrub on calcareous substrates which are dry-to-moist.
Flowering times
It blooms from the end of February through to the beginning of April.
Description
Orchis anatolica grows up to 40cm tall and has 2-6 dark green basal leaves which are sometimes marked with purple. There are smaller bract-like leave higher up the stem which is washed red. The lax inforescence carries between 2-15 flowers which are pink-to-purple, occasionally white. The 3 lobed lip is convex and is marked with dark purple spots.
Distribution
The Anatolian Orchid occurs in various parts of the eastern Mediterranean including Crete, Rhodes, Karpathos, Kasos, Cyprus and mainland Greece. There is some confusion surrounding the identification of the plants found in Crete which may be the result of hybridisation between O. anatolica and O. quadripunctata.
Habitat
The plant grows in open woodland and scrub on calcareous substrates which are dry-to-moist.
Flowering times
It blooms from the end of February through to the beginning of April.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月15日
This member of the Rose family (Rosaceae) has been cultivated throughout the Mediterranean region, but it is actually a native of North Africa and western Asia. The pretty bright pink buds of the flowers, which fade to white after they open, appear before the leaves and can often be seen from January onwards in the southern Iberian Peninsula.
In the Algarve in Portugal, where this specimen was photographed, the once thriving industry of growing almonds for marzipan has collapsed in favour of using cheaper imported nuts from abroad, although the Portuguese continue to make the almond-paste fruits, sweets and desserts for which they are world famous. This means that many of the almond orchards are now abandoned; the fruits of these neglected trees often contain poisonous prussic acid (hydrogen cyanide) and should therefore be avoided.
In the Algarve in Portugal, where this specimen was photographed, the once thriving industry of growing almonds for marzipan has collapsed in favour of using cheaper imported nuts from abroad, although the Portuguese continue to make the almond-paste fruits, sweets and desserts for which they are world famous. This means that many of the almond orchards are now abandoned; the fruits of these neglected trees often contain poisonous prussic acid (hydrogen cyanide) and should therefore be avoided.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月15日
Allium subvillosum is an attractive plant, but to appreciate its true beauty you need to get close up and personal because it has such tiny flowers.
Identification
A relative of Wild Garlic (also known as Ramsons), Allium subvillosum has dense umbels each with 15 to 20 white flowers that are deeply cupped and have yellow anthers. This bulb-forming perennial grows up to 30cm tall, and its long narrow leaves are covered with long white hairs.
Allium subvillosum was until recently classified as a member of the Lily family (Liliaceae), but recent taxonomic revisions now place it in the family Asparagaceae.
Distribution
These spring wildflowers are found in southern Spain and Portugal, Sicily, North Africa and the Balearics.
Habitat
This coastal plant of the Mediterranean region can be found in both sandy and grassy places close to the sea.
Blooming Times
Allium subvillosum blooms very early in the year. The specimens shown on this page were photographed in the Algarve region of Portugal in late February.
Etymology
Allium is the Latin word for garlic, while the specific epithet subvillosum comes from sub- meaning somewhat or slightly, and -villosum meaning covered in soft hairs.
Identification
A relative of Wild Garlic (also known as Ramsons), Allium subvillosum has dense umbels each with 15 to 20 white flowers that are deeply cupped and have yellow anthers. This bulb-forming perennial grows up to 30cm tall, and its long narrow leaves are covered with long white hairs.
Allium subvillosum was until recently classified as a member of the Lily family (Liliaceae), but recent taxonomic revisions now place it in the family Asparagaceae.
Distribution
These spring wildflowers are found in southern Spain and Portugal, Sicily, North Africa and the Balearics.
Habitat
This coastal plant of the Mediterranean region can be found in both sandy and grassy places close to the sea.
Blooming Times
Allium subvillosum blooms very early in the year. The specimens shown on this page were photographed in the Algarve region of Portugal in late February.
Etymology
Allium is the Latin word for garlic, while the specific epithet subvillosum comes from sub- meaning somewhat or slightly, and -villosum meaning covered in soft hairs.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月15日
Anyone who says they love the scent of spring flowers obviously hasn't caught a whiff of these stinkers, especially when they are fading.
Identification
Smyrnium olusatrum is a hairless biennial umbellifer growing to a height of 1.5m. The yellowish-green glossy leaves are divided and bluntly toothed. Young stems are solid but become hollow when old; the upper branches are usually opposite.
Borne in dense umbels, the yellowish Flowers of Alexanders are hermaphrodite (having both male and female reproductive organs); they have no sepals. The seeds change colour from light green to black as they ripen during July and August..
Distribution
This Mediterranean plant was probably introduced to Britainby the Romans, who may have used it as a general-purpose vegetable. (The leaves and young shoots can be eaten either raw or cooked, although the bitter taste is not universally popular.) Alexanders grows wild in most coastal parts of Britain and Ireland, and in southern and central Britain it is also found in many inland locations. Further north this warm-climate cannot cope inland with winter's extreme cold, and it is confined to sheltered coastal areas.
Smyrnium olusatrum is common throughout central and southern mainland Europe
Habitat
Particularly were the soil is enriched and has been disturbed, Alexanders colonises waste land, roadside verges, woodland edges, scrub and and cliff tops.
Although mainly coastal, this umbellifer seems to have benefited from the salting of roads, and so has moved inland nearly always on or near roadside verges.
Blooming Times
This mainly coastal plant is a very early blooming member of the family Apiaceae, and you will see swathes of it in springtime along hedgerows and onthe slopes leading down to sheltered coves.
The umbrella-like yellow flower heads open in April, and by July the seeds are beginning to ripen and turn dark brown.
Uses
All parts of this plant are considered edible, but older leaves and stems are usually cooked; only young leaves and shoots are worth adding raw to salads. The first new leaves appear during winter, before many other edible wild plants are available. In the distant past Smyrnium olusatrum was used in many herbal remedies, but nowadays other plants are generally considered superior. (We strongly advise against eating or using as medicines any plants without first obtaining qualified professional advice.)
Etymology
The generic botanical name Smyrnium comes from the Greek word smyrnion, which means myrrh. It suggests that the smells of Alexanders and of myrrh may be similar.The specific epithet olusatrum comes from the Latin olus-, a garden herb, and -ater, black - referring to the seeds.
Identification
Smyrnium olusatrum is a hairless biennial umbellifer growing to a height of 1.5m. The yellowish-green glossy leaves are divided and bluntly toothed. Young stems are solid but become hollow when old; the upper branches are usually opposite.
Borne in dense umbels, the yellowish Flowers of Alexanders are hermaphrodite (having both male and female reproductive organs); they have no sepals. The seeds change colour from light green to black as they ripen during July and August..
Distribution
This Mediterranean plant was probably introduced to Britainby the Romans, who may have used it as a general-purpose vegetable. (The leaves and young shoots can be eaten either raw or cooked, although the bitter taste is not universally popular.) Alexanders grows wild in most coastal parts of Britain and Ireland, and in southern and central Britain it is also found in many inland locations. Further north this warm-climate cannot cope inland with winter's extreme cold, and it is confined to sheltered coastal areas.
Smyrnium olusatrum is common throughout central and southern mainland Europe
Habitat
Particularly were the soil is enriched and has been disturbed, Alexanders colonises waste land, roadside verges, woodland edges, scrub and and cliff tops.
Although mainly coastal, this umbellifer seems to have benefited from the salting of roads, and so has moved inland nearly always on or near roadside verges.
Blooming Times
This mainly coastal plant is a very early blooming member of the family Apiaceae, and you will see swathes of it in springtime along hedgerows and onthe slopes leading down to sheltered coves.
The umbrella-like yellow flower heads open in April, and by July the seeds are beginning to ripen and turn dark brown.
Uses
All parts of this plant are considered edible, but older leaves and stems are usually cooked; only young leaves and shoots are worth adding raw to salads. The first new leaves appear during winter, before many other edible wild plants are available. In the distant past Smyrnium olusatrum was used in many herbal remedies, but nowadays other plants are generally considered superior. (We strongly advise against eating or using as medicines any plants without first obtaining qualified professional advice.)
Etymology
The generic botanical name Smyrnium comes from the Greek word smyrnion, which means myrrh. It suggests that the smells of Alexanders and of myrrh may be similar.The specific epithet olusatrum comes from the Latin olus-, a garden herb, and -ater, black - referring to the seeds.
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文章
Miss Chen
2017年08月14日
Some cockscomb flowers (Celosia argentea var. cristata) are feathery plumes, some are spikes and some look like wrinkled brains or tangled yarn, but all thrive in well-drained, moist soil in full sun. The four cockscomb groups are Plumosa, Spicata, Cristata and Childsii. Cockscombs usually grow as annual plants, but in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 10 through 12 they're short-lived perennials. Garden centers and nurseries sell cockscombs in plant cell packs in spring.
Hardening Off
Cockscomb flowers need to adjust outdoor conditions, or harden off, before they're planted in the garden. If you bought your cockscombs from a supplier or grew them yourself from seed indoors, your plants will be too tender to transplant right away. Leaving them outdoors for increasing amounts of time toughens the leaves and stems and reduces transplantation stress. After the final frost date has passed, place the cockscombs outside in a sheltered spot in the morning and bring them indoors at night for one week. Leave them outdoors overnight for the following week, and plant them in your garden in the third week. Plants usually require more water when they go outside.
Planting Out
Warm, cloudy, still days are best for planting cockscomb flowers. Plant tall varieties in locations sheltered from strong winds. If the soil in the planting site is dry and thin, dig 3 inches of garden compost or well-rotted manure into the top 6 inches of soil with a garden fork. Gently ease the cockscombs out of their containers by pushing on the bases or tapping the packs on the ground and sliding the plants out. Don't pull cockscombs out by their stems because this can damage them. Plant the cockscombs at the same level in the ground they were growing in their containers, spaced 10 to 12 inches apart or according to the instructions on the label or seed packet. Water the plants thoroughly. Cockscombs look best planted in large groups.
Caring for Cockscombs
With regular watering and feeding, cockscomb flowers are usually trouble free. Spread a 2-inch layer of compost, leaf mold or another fine organic mulch over the cockscomb bed, avoiding plant stems, to help conserve moisture in the soil. Water cockscombs whenever the soil surface is dry, and feed them with a water-soluble 24-8-16 fertilizer diluted at a rate of 1 tablespoon per 1 gallon of water. Apply 1/2 gallon of fertilizer solution to every 5 square feet of garden bed every two weeks, or according to the directions on the product label. Support tall cockscombs with stakes. Push 3-foot bamboo canes into the soil behind the plants, and tie the main stems to the canes with garden twine. You can also use specialized plant supports from your local garden center. Cockscombs rarely suffer from serious pests or diseases.
Buying Cockscombs
Cockscombs with crowded roots often grow and flower poorly. Check the bases of cockscomb packs before you buy, and don't buy plants that have roots growing through the drainage holes. Also avoid plants that are already flowering because this may be due to crowding or other stresses. Buy plants with healthy, completely green leaves, growing in moist potting soil. Buy plants two or three weeks before the final frost date and no earlier, or the plants will become crowded in their packs before it's safe to plant them outside. If you've already bought plants with crowded roots, cut 1/4 inch vertically into the root ball bases when planting them to encourage the plants to form new roots. Sterilize your pruning shears by wiping the blades with rubbing alcohol before and after using them.
Hardening Off
Cockscomb flowers need to adjust outdoor conditions, or harden off, before they're planted in the garden. If you bought your cockscombs from a supplier or grew them yourself from seed indoors, your plants will be too tender to transplant right away. Leaving them outdoors for increasing amounts of time toughens the leaves and stems and reduces transplantation stress. After the final frost date has passed, place the cockscombs outside in a sheltered spot in the morning and bring them indoors at night for one week. Leave them outdoors overnight for the following week, and plant them in your garden in the third week. Plants usually require more water when they go outside.
Planting Out
Warm, cloudy, still days are best for planting cockscomb flowers. Plant tall varieties in locations sheltered from strong winds. If the soil in the planting site is dry and thin, dig 3 inches of garden compost or well-rotted manure into the top 6 inches of soil with a garden fork. Gently ease the cockscombs out of their containers by pushing on the bases or tapping the packs on the ground and sliding the plants out. Don't pull cockscombs out by their stems because this can damage them. Plant the cockscombs at the same level in the ground they were growing in their containers, spaced 10 to 12 inches apart or according to the instructions on the label or seed packet. Water the plants thoroughly. Cockscombs look best planted in large groups.
Caring for Cockscombs
With regular watering and feeding, cockscomb flowers are usually trouble free. Spread a 2-inch layer of compost, leaf mold or another fine organic mulch over the cockscomb bed, avoiding plant stems, to help conserve moisture in the soil. Water cockscombs whenever the soil surface is dry, and feed them with a water-soluble 24-8-16 fertilizer diluted at a rate of 1 tablespoon per 1 gallon of water. Apply 1/2 gallon of fertilizer solution to every 5 square feet of garden bed every two weeks, or according to the directions on the product label. Support tall cockscombs with stakes. Push 3-foot bamboo canes into the soil behind the plants, and tie the main stems to the canes with garden twine. You can also use specialized plant supports from your local garden center. Cockscombs rarely suffer from serious pests or diseases.
Buying Cockscombs
Cockscombs with crowded roots often grow and flower poorly. Check the bases of cockscomb packs before you buy, and don't buy plants that have roots growing through the drainage holes. Also avoid plants that are already flowering because this may be due to crowding or other stresses. Buy plants with healthy, completely green leaves, growing in moist potting soil. Buy plants two or three weeks before the final frost date and no earlier, or the plants will become crowded in their packs before it's safe to plant them outside. If you've already bought plants with crowded roots, cut 1/4 inch vertically into the root ball bases when planting them to encourage the plants to form new roots. Sterilize your pruning shears by wiping the blades with rubbing alcohol before and after using them.
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文章
Miss Chen
2017年08月14日
Impatiens add color to shaded garden beds. Available in colors ranging from pink to deep lavender, impatiens produce abundant blooms amongst bright green foliage. These annual flowers thrive in the cooler weather of spring, but can bloom all summer long with proper care. If impatiens aren't blooming well, they likely aren't receiving the nutrients, water or maintenance they need.
Soil and Location
For the best blooms, choose a garden bed that receives dappled sunlight all day or morning shade and afternoon sun. Impatiens can't tolerate the direct mid-day sun. Plant in beds that also provide good drainage. The flowers thrive in rich loam soils that aren't prone to standing water. Apply compost to the bed before planting to improve the quality of the soil and improve the blooms on the plants.
Fertilizing
Impatiens are heavy feeders, so additional fertilization is needed throughout the growing season to replenish the plants for reblooming. Impatiens require nitrogen to produce healthy foliage and phosphorus to bloom. A fertilizer that provides equal amounts of these nutrients, such as a 10-10-10 or 13-13-13 analysis, works well in most gardens. Reapply the fertilizer every six to eight weeks throughout spring and summer so the impatiens are never starved for nutrients.
Watering
Proper irrigation ensures the soil never dries out completely. Impatiens can't tolerate drought, so watering regularly is necessary, otherwise the plants suffer and blooms diminish. Provide enough water to moisten the top 6 inches of soil at each watering, which is about equal to 1 inch of rainfall. Water one to two times a week, or when the soil surface just begins to dry. Mulching around the plants helps keep the soil moist between watering. Water at the base of plants so the flowers and foliage remain dry. Wet plants are susceptible to powdery mildew.
Pruning
Come midsummer, a combination of heat and older plants can lead to impatiens becoming leggy. They may also begin blooming poorly at this time. Improve both the shape of the impatiens and the amount of flowers by pinching back the plants. Pinch back all the stems to within 3 inches of the ground, leaving at least one set of leaves on each stem. Impatiens quickly produce new growth and return to full bloom within a couple of weeks after pinching. The foliage also returns fuller and rounder, giving a better shape to the plants.
Soil and Location
For the best blooms, choose a garden bed that receives dappled sunlight all day or morning shade and afternoon sun. Impatiens can't tolerate the direct mid-day sun. Plant in beds that also provide good drainage. The flowers thrive in rich loam soils that aren't prone to standing water. Apply compost to the bed before planting to improve the quality of the soil and improve the blooms on the plants.
Fertilizing
Impatiens are heavy feeders, so additional fertilization is needed throughout the growing season to replenish the plants for reblooming. Impatiens require nitrogen to produce healthy foliage and phosphorus to bloom. A fertilizer that provides equal amounts of these nutrients, such as a 10-10-10 or 13-13-13 analysis, works well in most gardens. Reapply the fertilizer every six to eight weeks throughout spring and summer so the impatiens are never starved for nutrients.
Watering
Proper irrigation ensures the soil never dries out completely. Impatiens can't tolerate drought, so watering regularly is necessary, otherwise the plants suffer and blooms diminish. Provide enough water to moisten the top 6 inches of soil at each watering, which is about equal to 1 inch of rainfall. Water one to two times a week, or when the soil surface just begins to dry. Mulching around the plants helps keep the soil moist between watering. Water at the base of plants so the flowers and foliage remain dry. Wet plants are susceptible to powdery mildew.
Pruning
Come midsummer, a combination of heat and older plants can lead to impatiens becoming leggy. They may also begin blooming poorly at this time. Improve both the shape of the impatiens and the amount of flowers by pinching back the plants. Pinch back all the stems to within 3 inches of the ground, leaving at least one set of leaves on each stem. Impatiens quickly produce new growth and return to full bloom within a couple of weeks after pinching. The foliage also returns fuller and rounder, giving a better shape to the plants.
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文章
Miss Chen
2017年08月14日
While begonias produce lovely, delicate flowers, they are heat-loving annuals that landscapers depend upon for their toughness. Depending upon your landscape conditions, there is a begonia to fit the bill. Begonias come in many varieties, with light requirements ranging from full sun to heavy shade. In fact, there are over 1,500 named begonia species; this lists focuses on the most popular and readily available varieties. Remember that begonias are annuals, meaning they will not survive freezing temperatures. Unless you live in a tropical climate, you'll need to replant your begonias each year.
Bronze Leaf Begonias
Bronze leaf begonias have a reddish, bronze cast.
With their reddish, bronze-tinted leaves, bronze leaf sempenflorens begonias, also called wax begonias, are striking in appearance and tough in spirit. They can stand up to the summer sun in many parts of the country. However, in some very hot climates, bronze leaf begonias may scorch in full sun. Crispy brown leaf edges are a sign that your begonias need a break from the sun.
Green Leaf Begonias
Green leaf begonias have bright or light green leaves.
Also a sempenflorens or wax variety, green leaf begonias are very similar in appearance to their bronze leaf cousins, but can easily be distinguished by their bright green or light green leaves. While the bronze leaf varieties thrive in full sun, green leaf begonias require shade or dappled shade, with, at most, gentle morning sun. While they bloom no matter how high the temperature rises, they scorch in too much sun. Brown, dried leaf edges will alert you that your green leaf begonias are getting too much sun.
Angel Wing Begonias
Angel wing begonias have leaves that resemble wings.
Angel wing begonias, also called cane begonias or dragon wing begonias, can be identified by their wing-shaped leaves and bamboo-like stems. Angel wing begonias are some of the largest begonias, with cane-like stems that can grow up to 15 feet tall in tropical climates, where they have the opportunity to grow season after season. Angel wing begonias can take full sun in cooler months, but need some shade in hotter months. Growing them in pots allows you to move them throughout the growing season as necessary.
Tuberous Begonias
In general, tuberous begonias produce larger, more-rounded flowers than other types.
Like other types of begonias, tuberous begonias bloom all summer long regardless of the heat. Tuberous begonias do best in bright indirect light, protected from strong direct sunlight that can burn their tender leaves. Tuberous begonias are prized for their larger, rounded flowers. Unlike other begonia species, tuberous begonias grow from tubers, which can be dug up in the fall before the first freeze, stored over the winter and replanted the following spring.
Bronze Leaf Begonias
Bronze leaf begonias have a reddish, bronze cast.
With their reddish, bronze-tinted leaves, bronze leaf sempenflorens begonias, also called wax begonias, are striking in appearance and tough in spirit. They can stand up to the summer sun in many parts of the country. However, in some very hot climates, bronze leaf begonias may scorch in full sun. Crispy brown leaf edges are a sign that your begonias need a break from the sun.
Green Leaf Begonias
Green leaf begonias have bright or light green leaves.
Also a sempenflorens or wax variety, green leaf begonias are very similar in appearance to their bronze leaf cousins, but can easily be distinguished by their bright green or light green leaves. While the bronze leaf varieties thrive in full sun, green leaf begonias require shade or dappled shade, with, at most, gentle morning sun. While they bloom no matter how high the temperature rises, they scorch in too much sun. Brown, dried leaf edges will alert you that your green leaf begonias are getting too much sun.
Angel Wing Begonias
Angel wing begonias have leaves that resemble wings.
Angel wing begonias, also called cane begonias or dragon wing begonias, can be identified by their wing-shaped leaves and bamboo-like stems. Angel wing begonias are some of the largest begonias, with cane-like stems that can grow up to 15 feet tall in tropical climates, where they have the opportunity to grow season after season. Angel wing begonias can take full sun in cooler months, but need some shade in hotter months. Growing them in pots allows you to move them throughout the growing season as necessary.
Tuberous Begonias
In general, tuberous begonias produce larger, more-rounded flowers than other types.
Like other types of begonias, tuberous begonias bloom all summer long regardless of the heat. Tuberous begonias do best in bright indirect light, protected from strong direct sunlight that can burn their tender leaves. Tuberous begonias are prized for their larger, rounded flowers. Unlike other begonia species, tuberous begonias grow from tubers, which can be dug up in the fall before the first freeze, stored over the winter and replanted the following spring.
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文章
Miss Chen
2017年08月14日
Often referred to and grown as annuals, petunias (Petunia spp.) are technically warm climate perennials. They grow year round in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 10 through 11. These brightly colored flowers grow quickly and flower abundantly, making them ideal for adding color to window boxes, flowerbeds and planters. If you can't grow them year-round, grow petunias as annuals for dazzling spring, summer and early fall color.
The Difference
A true annual goes to seed after flowing and dies shortly after that in all climates. Petunias act like annuals in frosty areas, dying back with the first cold snap. As a mild climate perennial, however, petunias have the ability to grow year-round in the right climate. They like mild, frost-free winters, and summers that rarely rise above 90 degrees Fahrenheit, with low humidity. Most areas don't provide these specific requirements, so petunias are most commonly grown as warm season annuals in frost-prone areas and as cool season annuals in tropical and subtropical areas.
Warm Season Annuals
Plant petunias outdoors in the spring after the last frost date when the soil warms up to 60 degrees F. Plant petunias from starts or seedlings. If you want to grow them from seed, start petunias indoors in a seed flat 10 to 12 weeks before your spring planting date. Plant starts in a spot that gets full sun at least six hours per day, with well draining soil. After the first frost, remove the spent petunia plants, and plan to replant starts in the spring.
Finicky Warm Climate Perennials
In frost-free regions where summers tend to get hot, plant petunias in the fall. You'll have flowers through the winter and spring months. Often, petunias will fade or burn out in the summer when temperatures go above 90 F. When petunias get faded and wilted during a hot summer, remove them and then replant in the fall when temperatures drop back down reliably below 90 F. Petunias only grow year-round as a true perennial in areas with mild winters and cool summers.
Overwintering Petunias
While petunias are plentiful and relatively inexpensive at the beginning of the growing season it is possible -- though they can be difficult to keep alive indoors -- to overwinter the plants. Dig out the root ball in the fall before frost, and transplant the petunias into nursery pots. Keep them indoors in bright light through the winter. Water when the soil dries out and mist the leaves with clean water every few days. Any room temperature area above 55 F but below 90 F will keep petunias happy through the winter. In the spring, replant petunias outdoors.
The Difference
A true annual goes to seed after flowing and dies shortly after that in all climates. Petunias act like annuals in frosty areas, dying back with the first cold snap. As a mild climate perennial, however, petunias have the ability to grow year-round in the right climate. They like mild, frost-free winters, and summers that rarely rise above 90 degrees Fahrenheit, with low humidity. Most areas don't provide these specific requirements, so petunias are most commonly grown as warm season annuals in frost-prone areas and as cool season annuals in tropical and subtropical areas.
Warm Season Annuals
Plant petunias outdoors in the spring after the last frost date when the soil warms up to 60 degrees F. Plant petunias from starts or seedlings. If you want to grow them from seed, start petunias indoors in a seed flat 10 to 12 weeks before your spring planting date. Plant starts in a spot that gets full sun at least six hours per day, with well draining soil. After the first frost, remove the spent petunia plants, and plan to replant starts in the spring.
Finicky Warm Climate Perennials
In frost-free regions where summers tend to get hot, plant petunias in the fall. You'll have flowers through the winter and spring months. Often, petunias will fade or burn out in the summer when temperatures go above 90 F. When petunias get faded and wilted during a hot summer, remove them and then replant in the fall when temperatures drop back down reliably below 90 F. Petunias only grow year-round as a true perennial in areas with mild winters and cool summers.
Overwintering Petunias
While petunias are plentiful and relatively inexpensive at the beginning of the growing season it is possible -- though they can be difficult to keep alive indoors -- to overwinter the plants. Dig out the root ball in the fall before frost, and transplant the petunias into nursery pots. Keep them indoors in bright light through the winter. Water when the soil dries out and mist the leaves with clean water every few days. Any room temperature area above 55 F but below 90 F will keep petunias happy through the winter. In the spring, replant petunias outdoors.
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文章
Miss Chen
2017年08月14日
The proper amount of light is critical for petunias to produce lush, healthy foliage and ample flowers. Lack of sunlight leads to weak plants that are more prone to disease. Without sunlight, petunias also flower poorly with few blossoms through the otherwise productive summer months.
Seedlings
Petunia seeds require sunlight to germinate. Sow the seeds on the soil surface and place them in an area that receives bright light to ensure they sprout. Both seed-grown and purchased seedlings must be supplied with plenty of light until you are ready to transplant them outside. Set the petunias in a sunny window where they receive at least six hours of direct light a day. If you don't have a suitable window, use fluorescent grow lights to provide enough light for the petunias to produce healthy, compact growth.
Full Sun Beds
Plant petunias in beds that receive full sunlight whenever possible. Petunias flower best and produce the most compact growth when supplied with six to eight hours daily of sunlight. Before transplanting petunias to a full-sun bed, harden them off so they don't suffer leaf scalding from the bright light. Place potted petunias in an outdoor area protected from direct sunlight. Gradually move them into direct sun over the course of seven days before finally planting them in the garden bed.
Partial Sun Beds
While not preferred, petunias can grow in partial-sun beds. When this is necessary, choose a bed that receives full morning sun and dappled sunlight or bright shade in the later afternoon. Petunias may not flower as well when planted in partial sunlight, and the plants may become leggy and weak looking. Prune the plants by up to half their height at midseason if they are weak and spindly. Pinching helps encourage a new flush of growth and makes the plants appear fuller.
Container Concerns
Container-planted petunias also do best in full sunlight, whether you are using a planter or hanging basket. The high amount of light causes the soil to heat up and dry out more quickly in the container. Water daily to help prevent the soil from drying out too much. When possible, set the containers in an area where the petunias receive full sun but the base of the container receives shade. For example, A half barrel of petunias sitting behind a low shrub is shaded at the container level but sunlight can reach the petunias planted in the top unhindered.
Seedlings
Petunia seeds require sunlight to germinate. Sow the seeds on the soil surface and place them in an area that receives bright light to ensure they sprout. Both seed-grown and purchased seedlings must be supplied with plenty of light until you are ready to transplant them outside. Set the petunias in a sunny window where they receive at least six hours of direct light a day. If you don't have a suitable window, use fluorescent grow lights to provide enough light for the petunias to produce healthy, compact growth.
Full Sun Beds
Plant petunias in beds that receive full sunlight whenever possible. Petunias flower best and produce the most compact growth when supplied with six to eight hours daily of sunlight. Before transplanting petunias to a full-sun bed, harden them off so they don't suffer leaf scalding from the bright light. Place potted petunias in an outdoor area protected from direct sunlight. Gradually move them into direct sun over the course of seven days before finally planting them in the garden bed.
Partial Sun Beds
While not preferred, petunias can grow in partial-sun beds. When this is necessary, choose a bed that receives full morning sun and dappled sunlight or bright shade in the later afternoon. Petunias may not flower as well when planted in partial sunlight, and the plants may become leggy and weak looking. Prune the plants by up to half their height at midseason if they are weak and spindly. Pinching helps encourage a new flush of growth and makes the plants appear fuller.
Container Concerns
Container-planted petunias also do best in full sunlight, whether you are using a planter or hanging basket. The high amount of light causes the soil to heat up and dry out more quickly in the container. Water daily to help prevent the soil from drying out too much. When possible, set the containers in an area where the petunias receive full sun but the base of the container receives shade. For example, A half barrel of petunias sitting behind a low shrub is shaded at the container level but sunlight can reach the petunias planted in the top unhindered.
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文章
Miss Chen
2017年08月14日
The proper amount of light is critical for petunias to produce lush, healthy foliage and ample flowers. Lack of sunlight leads to weak plants that are more prone to disease. Without sunlight, petunias also flower poorly with few blossoms through the otherwise productive summer months.
Seedlings
Petunia seeds require sunlight to germinate. Sow the seeds on the soil surface and place them in an area that receives bright light to ensure they sprout. Both seed-grown and purchased seedlings must be supplied with plenty of light until you are ready to transplant them outside. Set the petunias in a sunny window where they receive at least six hours of direct light a day. If you don't have a suitable window, use fluorescent grow lights to provide enough light for the petunias to produce healthy, compact growth.
Full Sun Beds
Plant petunias in beds that receive full sunlight whenever possible. Petunias flower best and produce the most compact growth when supplied with six to eight hours daily of sunlight. Before transplanting petunias to a full-sun bed, harden them off so they don't suffer leaf scalding from the bright light. Place potted petunias in an outdoor area protected from direct sunlight. Gradually move them into direct sun over the course of seven days before finally planting them in the garden bed.
Partial Sun Beds
While not preferred, petunias can grow in partial-sun beds. When this is necessary, choose a bed that receives full morning sun and dappled sunlight or bright shade in the later afternoon. Petunias may not flower as well when planted in partial sunlight, and the plants may become leggy and weak looking. Prune the plants by up to half their height at midseason if they are weak and spindly. Pinching helps encourage a new flush of growth and makes the plants appear fuller.
Container Concerns
Container-planted petunias also do best in full sunlight, whether you are using a planter or hanging basket. The high amount of light causes the soil to heat up and dry out more quickly in the container. Water daily to help prevent the soil from drying out too much. When possible, set the containers in an area where the petunias receive full sun but the base of the container receives shade. For example, A half barrel of petunias sitting behind a low shrub is shaded at the container level but sunlight can reach the petunias planted in the top unhindered.
Seedlings
Petunia seeds require sunlight to germinate. Sow the seeds on the soil surface and place them in an area that receives bright light to ensure they sprout. Both seed-grown and purchased seedlings must be supplied with plenty of light until you are ready to transplant them outside. Set the petunias in a sunny window where they receive at least six hours of direct light a day. If you don't have a suitable window, use fluorescent grow lights to provide enough light for the petunias to produce healthy, compact growth.
Full Sun Beds
Plant petunias in beds that receive full sunlight whenever possible. Petunias flower best and produce the most compact growth when supplied with six to eight hours daily of sunlight. Before transplanting petunias to a full-sun bed, harden them off so they don't suffer leaf scalding from the bright light. Place potted petunias in an outdoor area protected from direct sunlight. Gradually move them into direct sun over the course of seven days before finally planting them in the garden bed.
Partial Sun Beds
While not preferred, petunias can grow in partial-sun beds. When this is necessary, choose a bed that receives full morning sun and dappled sunlight or bright shade in the later afternoon. Petunias may not flower as well when planted in partial sunlight, and the plants may become leggy and weak looking. Prune the plants by up to half their height at midseason if they are weak and spindly. Pinching helps encourage a new flush of growth and makes the plants appear fuller.
Container Concerns
Container-planted petunias also do best in full sunlight, whether you are using a planter or hanging basket. The high amount of light causes the soil to heat up and dry out more quickly in the container. Water daily to help prevent the soil from drying out too much. When possible, set the containers in an area where the petunias receive full sun but the base of the container receives shade. For example, A half barrel of petunias sitting behind a low shrub is shaded at the container level but sunlight can reach the petunias planted in the top unhindered.
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文章
Miss Chen
2017年08月14日
Deadheading or pinching back spent blossoms is a simple and effective pruning technique. By deadheading, you encourage both perennial and annual flowers to put forth continued blossoms throughout the growing season, as they are not expending energy on producing seed. Foxglove plants, growing energetically to fill in shady garden areas, blooms with tall spires of pink and yellow flowers in the first part of the summer. Foxglove may respond to deadheading by blooming again later in the season.
Step 1
Watch the foxglove blossoms as they begin to die back in early to mid summer.
Step 2
Clip off the spent blossoms with the pruning shears or pinch them off with your thumb and forefinger. Remove the blossoms at the point of the first set of leaves on the stems.
Step 3
Discard the blossoms into the bucket as you remove them. Throw away the blossoms in the bucket in a compost pile or in the trash. Never leave clipped blossoms on the soil beneath plants because this can lead to fungal infections.
Step 4
Watch for a second bloom. Because you clipped the blossoms off at the leaf intersection, new stem growth may occur with new blossoms.
Step 5
Allow the second bloom to wither and go to seed on the plants, if you wish to propagate volunteer plants for the next growing season.
Step 1
Watch the foxglove blossoms as they begin to die back in early to mid summer.
Step 2
Clip off the spent blossoms with the pruning shears or pinch them off with your thumb and forefinger. Remove the blossoms at the point of the first set of leaves on the stems.
Step 3
Discard the blossoms into the bucket as you remove them. Throw away the blossoms in the bucket in a compost pile or in the trash. Never leave clipped blossoms on the soil beneath plants because this can lead to fungal infections.
Step 4
Watch for a second bloom. Because you clipped the blossoms off at the leaf intersection, new stem growth may occur with new blossoms.
Step 5
Allow the second bloom to wither and go to seed on the plants, if you wish to propagate volunteer plants for the next growing season.
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文章
Miss Chen
2017年08月14日
Petunias are bright and colorful annual flowers thriving throughout the country. They grow in both small and large varieties and bring color to all summertime gardens. They require the right season and conditions to maintain healthy stems, foliage and blooms. Petunias may go brown for a number of reasons.
Growing Season
Petunias are annuals, and so grow for only one season. They require midspring plantings and summer growing seasons. Do not plant them outdoors until all frost is past. These plants grow well in gardens, pots and hanging containers.
Frost
Annual flowers die in frost, so petunia leaves naturally yellow and fade when fall approaches. Browning in fall simply means that the petunias are at the end of their lifespans. Save petunias in pots by moving them indoors and out of the frost.
Light
According to the University of Minnesota, light is the most important aspect of petunia growing. Petunias that don't receive at least five to six hours of full sun every day won't bloom or spread. Heavily shaded petunias may display yellow or brown leaves from lack of sun.
Soil and Spacing
Petunias require moderately fertile, quick-draining soil and will rot and die in tight soil or standing water. The University of Minnesota recommends amending soil with peat moss or compost before planting. Give petunias 8-8-8, 10-10-10 or 12-12-12 fertilizer at planting to increase growth and blooming.
Water
Petunias that don't get enough water will die with wasted blooms and brown, crumbling leaves. Increase watering to 2 to 3 inches of water a week to save brown and dying petunias.
Growing Season
Petunias are annuals, and so grow for only one season. They require midspring plantings and summer growing seasons. Do not plant them outdoors until all frost is past. These plants grow well in gardens, pots and hanging containers.
Frost
Annual flowers die in frost, so petunia leaves naturally yellow and fade when fall approaches. Browning in fall simply means that the petunias are at the end of their lifespans. Save petunias in pots by moving them indoors and out of the frost.
Light
According to the University of Minnesota, light is the most important aspect of petunia growing. Petunias that don't receive at least five to six hours of full sun every day won't bloom or spread. Heavily shaded petunias may display yellow or brown leaves from lack of sun.
Soil and Spacing
Petunias require moderately fertile, quick-draining soil and will rot and die in tight soil or standing water. The University of Minnesota recommends amending soil with peat moss or compost before planting. Give petunias 8-8-8, 10-10-10 or 12-12-12 fertilizer at planting to increase growth and blooming.
Water
Petunias that don't get enough water will die with wasted blooms and brown, crumbling leaves. Increase watering to 2 to 3 inches of water a week to save brown and dying petunias.
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