文章
Miss Chen
2017年08月29日
"Gather ye rosebuds while ye may," poet Robert Herrick tells us, but he doesn't mention how to make them open. Whether you received florist rose flowers or cut a selection of your own from your garden, warm water and shorter stems are two tricks to try.
Bye-Bye to Bacteria
Clean tools and containers allow cut rose flowers to open and last in a vase. Bacteria is not your friend when it's on or around cut roses. It plugs the flower stems and prevents regular water uptake. The result can be blooms that don't open or roses with bent necks. So wash tubs and vases with hot, soapy water. Then rinse them with a solution that is 1 part bleach and 10 parts water, and rinse them with water. Soak cutting tools in denatured alcohol, too, and keep the cutting blades sharp. Removing all foliage below the vase's water line prevents it from rotting and contaminating the water.
Garden Roses
One big difference between caring for florist roses and cut garden roses is that you decide when to take the latter. Rose blooms are most vigorous and long-lasting when cut in early morning, which is when they are full of moisture. It helps to give the ground a thorough watering the night before. Cut a rose flower only after its sepals have opened and turned downward. Sepals are the flower parts that look like green petals. If the sepals are wrapped tightly around a cut rosebud, the flower will not open. If a rose flower is of a variety typically has many petals, then wait until a few rows of petals are open before cutting that rose. Another trick for determining whether a rose flower is ready to cut is to squeeze it gently. If it feels soft and gives a little, it will likely open. Buds that are as hard as marbles won't open.
Water, Water Everywhere
Water makes the difference between a rose that opens and a rose that doesn't. When cutting flowers in your garden, have a bucket with you, and plunge each flower's stem in the bucket as soon as you cut it. If you buy or receive florist roses, immediately open the container, remove the wrapping and put the roses in water. Warm water helps roses open faster than they would otherwise, but lukewarm water results in a longer life for the flowers. Flower food added to water also helps blossoms open. Either use a commercial product or make your own, adding 1/2 teaspoon of sugar, 1 teaspoon of lemon juice and a few drops of bleach to 1 quart of water. Neither aspirin nor pennies in the water help roses open faster or last longer.
Water Changes and Stem Cuts
Rose stems need to be cut when you first arrange the flowers in a vase of water. Make the cuts under the water and at a diagonal. Only 1/2 to 1 inch of a stem needs to be taken off, but the shorter you cut a stem, the faster its rose is likely to open. Every few days, change the vase water and recut the stems. Leave the guard petals on each garden rose when you first cut it. The guard petals are the outer petals and are larger and thicker than the inner petals; sometimes the guard petals are discolored or streaked. If a rose does not open, remove its guard petals by pulling them gently from the flower's base.
Bye-Bye to Bacteria
Clean tools and containers allow cut rose flowers to open and last in a vase. Bacteria is not your friend when it's on or around cut roses. It plugs the flower stems and prevents regular water uptake. The result can be blooms that don't open or roses with bent necks. So wash tubs and vases with hot, soapy water. Then rinse them with a solution that is 1 part bleach and 10 parts water, and rinse them with water. Soak cutting tools in denatured alcohol, too, and keep the cutting blades sharp. Removing all foliage below the vase's water line prevents it from rotting and contaminating the water.
Garden Roses
One big difference between caring for florist roses and cut garden roses is that you decide when to take the latter. Rose blooms are most vigorous and long-lasting when cut in early morning, which is when they are full of moisture. It helps to give the ground a thorough watering the night before. Cut a rose flower only after its sepals have opened and turned downward. Sepals are the flower parts that look like green petals. If the sepals are wrapped tightly around a cut rosebud, the flower will not open. If a rose flower is of a variety typically has many petals, then wait until a few rows of petals are open before cutting that rose. Another trick for determining whether a rose flower is ready to cut is to squeeze it gently. If it feels soft and gives a little, it will likely open. Buds that are as hard as marbles won't open.
Water, Water Everywhere
Water makes the difference between a rose that opens and a rose that doesn't. When cutting flowers in your garden, have a bucket with you, and plunge each flower's stem in the bucket as soon as you cut it. If you buy or receive florist roses, immediately open the container, remove the wrapping and put the roses in water. Warm water helps roses open faster than they would otherwise, but lukewarm water results in a longer life for the flowers. Flower food added to water also helps blossoms open. Either use a commercial product or make your own, adding 1/2 teaspoon of sugar, 1 teaspoon of lemon juice and a few drops of bleach to 1 quart of water. Neither aspirin nor pennies in the water help roses open faster or last longer.
Water Changes and Stem Cuts
Rose stems need to be cut when you first arrange the flowers in a vase of water. Make the cuts under the water and at a diagonal. Only 1/2 to 1 inch of a stem needs to be taken off, but the shorter you cut a stem, the faster its rose is likely to open. Every few days, change the vase water and recut the stems. Leave the guard petals on each garden rose when you first cut it. The guard petals are the outer petals and are larger and thicker than the inner petals; sometimes the guard petals are discolored or streaked. If a rose does not open, remove its guard petals by pulling them gently from the flower's base.
1
0
文章
Miss Chen
2017年08月29日
Roses are edible flowers. From ancient times they have appeared at feasting tables as bouquets and as food. The flavor of roses is varied as the colors. The sweet, tart or spicy petals are easy to use and popular additions to any kitchen.
Step 1
Select fresh roses free of pesticides. Preferably the roses should be from your garden or an organic market. Light-color roses are more sweet or light in flavor. Darker roses have more aroma and flavor. Taste a rose petal to decide where it belongs on your menu.
Step 2
Wash roses by gently swishing them in cool water. Blot them gently with paper towels. Grasp the petals between the thumb and fingers of one hand and the blossom stem in the other hand. Pull out the petals. Discard any blemished petals. Use the petals immediately or store refrigerated in a plastic bag. Use within a few days for best flavor and freshness.
Step 3
Freeze rose petals in ice cubes. The fast way is fill the water trays and freeze until the ice is slushy, and then tuck in a petal or two. Freeze until solid. The more elegant way is to fill trays half full of water. Freeze. Drop in a rose petal for each cube. Cover petals with a spoonful of water and freeze again. Fill trays with water and freeze. Use rose cubes in lemonade, iced tea or punch.
Step 4
Make salad days rosy by sprinkling sweet-tasting fresh petals over fruit salads. Mix petals in whipped cream for fruit topping. Sprinkle spicy rose petals on green salads. Add and shake petals with vinegar-oil dressings for aroma and flavor.
Step 5
Prepare rose butter by mixing a half-cup to 1 cup of chopped rose petals in a cup of sweet unsalted butter. Let the blend stand at room temperature for 24 hours, then mix again and refrigerate to fully flavor the butter. Use this rose butter on bread or warm muffins. Substitute rose butter for regular butter in cookie or cake recipes. This butter refrigerates up to 2 weeks and freezes well.
Step 6
Infuse rose water by adding 2 cups rose petals to 1 quart water. Bring to a gentle boil, then turn off heat and let cool. Filter out the rose petals and bottle the water. Refrigerate the water for use in ice cubes or tea. Add rose water in place of regular water for gelatins and other desserts.
Step 7
Garnish with dried rose petals. Spread the petals on a microwave-safe dish or paper plate. Heat them for 1 or 2 minutes until dry. Scatter the small dry petals on everything from appetizers to desserts. Add a dusting of petals to top off vanilla pudding, brownies or ice cream. Sprinkle dry petals on frosted cakes or cupcakes. Have a rosy time in the kitchen!
Step 1
Select fresh roses free of pesticides. Preferably the roses should be from your garden or an organic market. Light-color roses are more sweet or light in flavor. Darker roses have more aroma and flavor. Taste a rose petal to decide where it belongs on your menu.
Step 2
Wash roses by gently swishing them in cool water. Blot them gently with paper towels. Grasp the petals between the thumb and fingers of one hand and the blossom stem in the other hand. Pull out the petals. Discard any blemished petals. Use the petals immediately or store refrigerated in a plastic bag. Use within a few days for best flavor and freshness.
Step 3
Freeze rose petals in ice cubes. The fast way is fill the water trays and freeze until the ice is slushy, and then tuck in a petal or two. Freeze until solid. The more elegant way is to fill trays half full of water. Freeze. Drop in a rose petal for each cube. Cover petals with a spoonful of water and freeze again. Fill trays with water and freeze. Use rose cubes in lemonade, iced tea or punch.
Step 4
Make salad days rosy by sprinkling sweet-tasting fresh petals over fruit salads. Mix petals in whipped cream for fruit topping. Sprinkle spicy rose petals on green salads. Add and shake petals with vinegar-oil dressings for aroma and flavor.
Step 5
Prepare rose butter by mixing a half-cup to 1 cup of chopped rose petals in a cup of sweet unsalted butter. Let the blend stand at room temperature for 24 hours, then mix again and refrigerate to fully flavor the butter. Use this rose butter on bread or warm muffins. Substitute rose butter for regular butter in cookie or cake recipes. This butter refrigerates up to 2 weeks and freezes well.
Step 6
Infuse rose water by adding 2 cups rose petals to 1 quart water. Bring to a gentle boil, then turn off heat and let cool. Filter out the rose petals and bottle the water. Refrigerate the water for use in ice cubes or tea. Add rose water in place of regular water for gelatins and other desserts.
Step 7
Garnish with dried rose petals. Spread the petals on a microwave-safe dish or paper plate. Heat them for 1 or 2 minutes until dry. Scatter the small dry petals on everything from appetizers to desserts. Add a dusting of petals to top off vanilla pudding, brownies or ice cream. Sprinkle dry petals on frosted cakes or cupcakes. Have a rosy time in the kitchen!
0
0
文章
Miss Chen
2017年08月29日
The original cherry red-flowered Knock Out rose (Rosa 'Radrazz') and its varieties produce showy flowers and are relatively disease-resistant. The shrubs grow up to 5 feet high and wide, thriving in full sun and well-drained soil with a pH level between 6.0 and 6.5.
Knock Out rose varieties produce 3-inch-wide, lightly fragrant flowers throughout spring and summer, and nearly all year in locations such as Florida. The blooms of Double Knock Out rose (Rosa 'Radtko') and Pink Double Knock Out rose (Rosa 'Radtkopink') have twice as many petals as the flowers of other Knock Out varieties, referred to as single Knock Outs. Single and double Knock Outs are hardy in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 4 through 10 or zones 5 through 11, depending on the source. Pruning both kinds of Knock Out roses on a regular basis helps keep them healthy and shaped.
Spring and Fall Pruning
Single and double Knock Out roses benefit from an annual late-winter or early-spring pruning, whether they grow in cool or warm climates. Wait until the shrubs have had at least their second year of growth to prune them, however; they are mature then.
The best time for spring pruning is when their leaf buds have swelled but before the new growth appears. In cool regions, the shrubs usually can be pruned from mid-February to early March or April. In warm regions, late January to mid-February is generally a suitable time to prune. You can prune again in late summer or early fall.
Conditions That Warrant Pruning
At any time of the year, you can remove dead, diseased or damaged branches from Knock Out roses. Although the shrubs tend to resist diseases, you may see occasional disease symptoms, including yellow leaves, peeling bark and a white, powdery mildew on the leaves and stems. Prune and destroy branches that show such symptoms; the disease-resistant plants probably will recover on their own.
If your Knock Out rose bushes serve as a privacy screen, then an option is simply to remove their dead wood and allow the shrubs to grow taller.
Promote air circulation and prevent diseases by removing branches that rub against other branches.
Pruning Gear and Methods
Wear a long-sleeved shirt and long, protective gloves to avoid injury from Knock Out roses' thorns. Prune the shrubs with bypass pruners, which have a scissorlike cutting action. Avoid using anvil pruners, which damage stem tissue, according to North Carolina Cooperative Extension.
Before you prune, sterilize the pruners by soaking them for five minutes in a solution that is 1 part 70-percent isopropyl rubbing alcohol and 1 part water to prevent spreading plant diseases; rinse the tool with clean water. Also sterilize the pruning tool occasionally between cuts on the same bush and before you prune a different bush. Keep pruning tools and disinfectants away from children and pets.
During spring and fall pruning, remove one-half to one-third of each Knock Out rose's growth,* but do not cut a plant shorter than 2 feet tall. Make each cut slanted and about 1/4 inch above an outward-facing leaf bud, with the cut slanting away from the bud. Staggering the cuts will give a shrub a dome shape.
Removal of Old Flowers
In summer, you have the option to deadhead, or remove, spent flower clusters from Knock Out rose bushes. Although deadheading is not a necessity, the practice helps control plant size and promotes late-season blooming. Deadheading is not a severe form of pruning and minimizes stress to the plants during hot summer months.
Deadhead a faded flower cluster by cutting its stem just above the first five-leaflet leaf below the flower cluster. If you want to trim leggy or uneven growth, then make the cut above a leaf that is 6 to 8 inches below the old flower cluster.
Knock Out rose varieties produce 3-inch-wide, lightly fragrant flowers throughout spring and summer, and nearly all year in locations such as Florida. The blooms of Double Knock Out rose (Rosa 'Radtko') and Pink Double Knock Out rose (Rosa 'Radtkopink') have twice as many petals as the flowers of other Knock Out varieties, referred to as single Knock Outs. Single and double Knock Outs are hardy in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 4 through 10 or zones 5 through 11, depending on the source. Pruning both kinds of Knock Out roses on a regular basis helps keep them healthy and shaped.
Spring and Fall Pruning
Single and double Knock Out roses benefit from an annual late-winter or early-spring pruning, whether they grow in cool or warm climates. Wait until the shrubs have had at least their second year of growth to prune them, however; they are mature then.
The best time for spring pruning is when their leaf buds have swelled but before the new growth appears. In cool regions, the shrubs usually can be pruned from mid-February to early March or April. In warm regions, late January to mid-February is generally a suitable time to prune. You can prune again in late summer or early fall.
Conditions That Warrant Pruning
At any time of the year, you can remove dead, diseased or damaged branches from Knock Out roses. Although the shrubs tend to resist diseases, you may see occasional disease symptoms, including yellow leaves, peeling bark and a white, powdery mildew on the leaves and stems. Prune and destroy branches that show such symptoms; the disease-resistant plants probably will recover on their own.
If your Knock Out rose bushes serve as a privacy screen, then an option is simply to remove their dead wood and allow the shrubs to grow taller.
Promote air circulation and prevent diseases by removing branches that rub against other branches.
Pruning Gear and Methods
Wear a long-sleeved shirt and long, protective gloves to avoid injury from Knock Out roses' thorns. Prune the shrubs with bypass pruners, which have a scissorlike cutting action. Avoid using anvil pruners, which damage stem tissue, according to North Carolina Cooperative Extension.
Before you prune, sterilize the pruners by soaking them for five minutes in a solution that is 1 part 70-percent isopropyl rubbing alcohol and 1 part water to prevent spreading plant diseases; rinse the tool with clean water. Also sterilize the pruning tool occasionally between cuts on the same bush and before you prune a different bush. Keep pruning tools and disinfectants away from children and pets.
During spring and fall pruning, remove one-half to one-third of each Knock Out rose's growth,* but do not cut a plant shorter than 2 feet tall. Make each cut slanted and about 1/4 inch above an outward-facing leaf bud, with the cut slanting away from the bud. Staggering the cuts will give a shrub a dome shape.
Removal of Old Flowers
In summer, you have the option to deadhead, or remove, spent flower clusters from Knock Out rose bushes. Although deadheading is not a necessity, the practice helps control plant size and promotes late-season blooming. Deadheading is not a severe form of pruning and minimizes stress to the plants during hot summer months.
Deadhead a faded flower cluster by cutting its stem just above the first five-leaflet leaf below the flower cluster. If you want to trim leggy or uneven growth, then make the cut above a leaf that is 6 to 8 inches below the old flower cluster.
1
1
文章
Miss Chen
2017年08月29日
Iceberg roses are one of the oldest and most beautiful of the climbing roses. The blooms are so white, they are almost blinding. However, they do not make good cut flowers for two reasons. Their stems are very thin, and they do not stand up well in a vase, and the blooms grow in clusters, so it is hard to cut without cutting off the new buds as well. But they make a spectacular display along a fence, on a trellis or over an arbor. These steps will help you with the pruning process.
Step 1
Understand that iceberg roses should be pruned in the spring, when there is no danger of frost. Iceberg roses are hardy in zones 4A to 9A, so the exact time will differ depending on where you live. Roses are resilient, but if frost gets into a new cut, the stem will die. In the worse cases, you could lose the whole plant. Iceberg roses then need to be pruned during the growing season, and once again in the fall when they are prepared for the winter.
Step 2
Keep in mind that spring pruning for iceberg roses is done in two different ways, depending on whether you want the roses to grow as shrubs about 3 to 4 feet tall, or grow taller as bushes. In order to make them grow as shrubs, you need to do hard pruning. This means cutting back the heavy wood more severely. But, this will keep the amount of flowers low.
Step 3
Know that if you use the one-third method, you will encourage the roses to grow taller. Remove just a third of the oldest growth. This will leave you enough woody growth for new shoots to sprout from. Now choose a third of the best from last year's growth to replace the old ones that you cut away and remove the rest.
Step 4
Remember that summer is the time to prune and shape the plant. Remove about a third of the flowering canes. Trim them short, to right above the five leaf section. There are two types of leaves on a rose plant. Some have three to a stem. Some have five. Look for the five. Also, remove the dead flowers, being careful not to cut off the close buds. Since iceberg roses grow in clusters, the new buds will be very close to the dead flowers. In the colder climates, do not prune too late in the summer. It will only make more growth, and you do not want it now.
Step 5
In warmer climates, you will need to do pruning in the winter as well. In late November or early December, cut them back to about 2 feet high if you want shrubs and 3 to 4 feet high if you want taller bushes. Always prune with the shape of the plant in mind.
Step 1
Understand that iceberg roses should be pruned in the spring, when there is no danger of frost. Iceberg roses are hardy in zones 4A to 9A, so the exact time will differ depending on where you live. Roses are resilient, but if frost gets into a new cut, the stem will die. In the worse cases, you could lose the whole plant. Iceberg roses then need to be pruned during the growing season, and once again in the fall when they are prepared for the winter.
Step 2
Keep in mind that spring pruning for iceberg roses is done in two different ways, depending on whether you want the roses to grow as shrubs about 3 to 4 feet tall, or grow taller as bushes. In order to make them grow as shrubs, you need to do hard pruning. This means cutting back the heavy wood more severely. But, this will keep the amount of flowers low.
Step 3
Know that if you use the one-third method, you will encourage the roses to grow taller. Remove just a third of the oldest growth. This will leave you enough woody growth for new shoots to sprout from. Now choose a third of the best from last year's growth to replace the old ones that you cut away and remove the rest.
Step 4
Remember that summer is the time to prune and shape the plant. Remove about a third of the flowering canes. Trim them short, to right above the five leaf section. There are two types of leaves on a rose plant. Some have three to a stem. Some have five. Look for the five. Also, remove the dead flowers, being careful not to cut off the close buds. Since iceberg roses grow in clusters, the new buds will be very close to the dead flowers. In the colder climates, do not prune too late in the summer. It will only make more growth, and you do not want it now.
Step 5
In warmer climates, you will need to do pruning in the winter as well. In late November or early December, cut them back to about 2 feet high if you want shrubs and 3 to 4 feet high if you want taller bushes. Always prune with the shape of the plant in mind.
0
0
文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月29日
Aubrieta (Aubrieta deltoidea) is one of the earliest bloomers in spring. Often part of a rock garden, Aubretia is also known as false rockcress. With its darling little purple flowers and dainty leaves, Aubrieta will scramble over rocks and other inorganic items, covering them with color and distracting the eye. Aubrieta groundcover is also remarkably drought tolerant once established and can handle the harsh heat of a full sun rockery. Read on for some tips on the care of Aubrieta and how to use this magical little plant in the garden.
Aubrieta Growing Conditions
Aubrieta is a perennial suited for United States Department of Agriculture zones 4 to 8. This temperate to cool region plant can spread up to 24 inches (61 cm.) over time and forms lovely purple carpets of color in spring. It is non-invasive and self-sufficient for the most part. Learn how to grow Aubrieta in your landscape so you can enjoy its charm in your border, rockery or even container garden.
False rockcress plants prefer full sun and well-drained soil. The plant prefers sites that are rich in lime. These easy-care plants are also adapted to partial shade locations but some blooms may be sacrificed. Aubrieta is a member of the mustard family, a notoriously tough group of plants. It is deer resistant and tolerant of drought once established. Once the full heat of summer is released, the plants tend to die back a bit and in fall much of the foliage will disappear in cooler climates. Aubrieta groundcover can tend to get a bit scraggly over time and responds well to shearing back after bloom or in fall.
How to Grow Aubrieta
Aubrieta grows well from seed. It is easy to establish and requires a minimum of water as the seedlings grow. Choose a sunny spot in the garden in early spring with well-draining soil or alternately start seeds indoors in flats 6 to 8 weeks before planting outdoors. Remove any debris and till soil to a depth of 6 inches (15 cm.). Sow seeds on the surface of the soil. Water gently with a diffuser attachment to prevent drowning seeds and pushing them under too much soil. Keep the area moderately wet but not soggy. Once seedlings appear, keep weed pests from the area and thin plants to one every 10 inches (25 cm.). Over the spring, false rockcress plants will gradually spread out to cover the area in a thick carpet. Young plants may develop a few spotty flowers but a full flush of blooms should not be expected until the following year.
Care of Aubrieta
These little plants couldn’t be easier to manage. Cutting the plants back after bloom can discourage seeding and keep the plants compact and tight. Every 1 to 3 years dig up the plant and divide to prevent center die out and propagate more plants for free. Keep Aubrieta moderately moist especially during the growing season. False rockcress has few disease or insect pest issues. The most common problems occur where soil is clay or drainage is poor. Make sure you amend soil and check for percolation prior to planting them out.
There are several cultivars available with flowers of red, lilac and pink. These lovely plants are beautiful cascading over a wall or even a container. They tend to look a little sad in early spring, as some of the foliage will have dropped but quickly recover with warming temperatures and spring rain.
Aubrieta Growing Conditions
Aubrieta is a perennial suited for United States Department of Agriculture zones 4 to 8. This temperate to cool region plant can spread up to 24 inches (61 cm.) over time and forms lovely purple carpets of color in spring. It is non-invasive and self-sufficient for the most part. Learn how to grow Aubrieta in your landscape so you can enjoy its charm in your border, rockery or even container garden.
False rockcress plants prefer full sun and well-drained soil. The plant prefers sites that are rich in lime. These easy-care plants are also adapted to partial shade locations but some blooms may be sacrificed. Aubrieta is a member of the mustard family, a notoriously tough group of plants. It is deer resistant and tolerant of drought once established. Once the full heat of summer is released, the plants tend to die back a bit and in fall much of the foliage will disappear in cooler climates. Aubrieta groundcover can tend to get a bit scraggly over time and responds well to shearing back after bloom or in fall.
How to Grow Aubrieta
Aubrieta grows well from seed. It is easy to establish and requires a minimum of water as the seedlings grow. Choose a sunny spot in the garden in early spring with well-draining soil or alternately start seeds indoors in flats 6 to 8 weeks before planting outdoors. Remove any debris and till soil to a depth of 6 inches (15 cm.). Sow seeds on the surface of the soil. Water gently with a diffuser attachment to prevent drowning seeds and pushing them under too much soil. Keep the area moderately wet but not soggy. Once seedlings appear, keep weed pests from the area and thin plants to one every 10 inches (25 cm.). Over the spring, false rockcress plants will gradually spread out to cover the area in a thick carpet. Young plants may develop a few spotty flowers but a full flush of blooms should not be expected until the following year.
Care of Aubrieta
These little plants couldn’t be easier to manage. Cutting the plants back after bloom can discourage seeding and keep the plants compact and tight. Every 1 to 3 years dig up the plant and divide to prevent center die out and propagate more plants for free. Keep Aubrieta moderately moist especially during the growing season. False rockcress has few disease or insect pest issues. The most common problems occur where soil is clay or drainage is poor. Make sure you amend soil and check for percolation prior to planting them out.
There are several cultivars available with flowers of red, lilac and pink. These lovely plants are beautiful cascading over a wall or even a container. They tend to look a little sad in early spring, as some of the foliage will have dropped but quickly recover with warming temperatures and spring rain.
0
0
文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月29日
Ground covers are an attractive way to cover a lot of area in a garden quickly. Snow in summer flower, or Cerastium silver carpet, is an evergreen ground cover that flowers from May to June and grows well in USDA plant hardiness zones 3-7. This stunning European native is a member of the carnation family and is deer resistant. Flowering is profuse, with blooms that are silvery white and star-shaped, and when in full bloom, this mounded plant resembles a pile of snow, hence the plant’s name. However, the flowers are not the only attractive part of this showy plant. The silver, grayish green foliage is a dainty addition to this plant and retains its rich color year round.
Growing Snow in Summer Plants
Growing snow in summer plants (Cerastium tomentosum) is relatively easy. Snow in summer likes full sun but will also thrive in partial sun in warm climates. New plants can be started from seed, either directly sown into the flower garden in early spring or started indoors four to six weeks before the last expected frost date. The soil must be kept moist for proper germination but once the plant is established, it is very drought tolerant.
Established plants may be propagated by division in the fall or by cuttings. Space the snow in summer flower 12 to 24 inches apart to give plenty of room for spread. Mature plants grow to 6 to 12 inches and have a spread of 12 to 18 inches.
Care of Snow in Summer Ground Cover
Snow in summer ground cover is very easy to maintain but will spread rapidly and may become invasive, even earning the nickname mouse-ear chickweed. The plant spreads quickly by reseeding and sending out runners. However, a 5-inch deep edge will usually keep this plant in its borders. Use a high-nitrogen fertilizer when planting and a phosphorus fertilizer after plants bloom.
Don’t let Cerastium silver carpet ground cover go unnoticed. Growing snow in summer plants in rock gardens, on slopes or hillsides, or even as a knockout border in the garden will provide long-lasting pearly white blooms and stunning silvery color year round.
Growing Snow in Summer Plants
Growing snow in summer plants (Cerastium tomentosum) is relatively easy. Snow in summer likes full sun but will also thrive in partial sun in warm climates. New plants can be started from seed, either directly sown into the flower garden in early spring or started indoors four to six weeks before the last expected frost date. The soil must be kept moist for proper germination but once the plant is established, it is very drought tolerant.
Established plants may be propagated by division in the fall or by cuttings. Space the snow in summer flower 12 to 24 inches apart to give plenty of room for spread. Mature plants grow to 6 to 12 inches and have a spread of 12 to 18 inches.
Care of Snow in Summer Ground Cover
Snow in summer ground cover is very easy to maintain but will spread rapidly and may become invasive, even earning the nickname mouse-ear chickweed. The plant spreads quickly by reseeding and sending out runners. However, a 5-inch deep edge will usually keep this plant in its borders. Use a high-nitrogen fertilizer when planting and a phosphorus fertilizer after plants bloom.
Don’t let Cerastium silver carpet ground cover go unnoticed. Growing snow in summer plants in rock gardens, on slopes or hillsides, or even as a knockout border in the garden will provide long-lasting pearly white blooms and stunning silvery color year round.
0
0
文章
Miss Chen
2017年08月29日
Selecting Your Roses
Roses are one of the most celebrated and recognized flowers in the world. With a little research or a visit to your local garden store, you will be able to determine which roses grow best in your area. How long it takes to grow roses depends upon the type of roses you select, the climate and soil quality in your garden. Roses are generally planted in the ground in early Spring in most areas but may be planted in late Fall in mild climates. Most roses will be ready for their first blooms in the summer. Floribunda, hybrid tea and shrub/hedge roses usually bloom six to eight weeks after planting. Climbing roses generally have a limited bloom during the first season but have a large bloom by the second year after planting.
Purchasing and Planting Your Roses
There are many different types of roses and their rate of growth is dependent upon the climate as well as the care they receive. To achieve maximum growth and blooms, select roses that are recommended for your area. If you purchased bare root roses through the mail, plant them as soon as possible. When you are ready to plant, fill a bucket with room-temperature water. Carefully unwrap the bare root plants from their packaging and then soak the root system in the water for approximately one hour prior to planting. Dig a cone-shaped hole 18 inches deep and spread the roots evenly. Remove any damaged, dead or broken roots and stems prior to planting. Add a mixture of soil combined up to a maximum of 25 percent compost and manure. Pack soil mixture firmly to fill in the hole and water.
Potted roses should be watered and placed in a sunny location. If you are planning to plant the potted roses in your garden, remove any damaged, dead or broken stems prior to planting. Dig a hole, place the rose bush into the hole and add a combination the soil, compost and manure mixture which has been mixed with loose soil from the container. Water lightly.
Growth of Popular Roses
Producing the classic long stemmed roses commonly sold by florists, Hybrid Teas are one of those most popular variety of roses. Mature Hybrid Tea plants can grow up to five feet high. Also growing up to five feet and with similar blooms, Grandifloras produce clusters of hybrid-tea roses but with shorter stems.
Climbing roses can be trained to entwine a trellis, a wall or an arbor but they frequently do not reach full blooming capacity until the second year of growth. Although they are usually between ten to twelve feet tall or wide, some climbing roses can grow up to twenty feet.
Floribundas are easy to grow roses which generally bloom continuously from June until the first hard frost. Averaging between two and four feet tall, Floribundas feature clusters of flowers on short stems.
Shrub roses are very hardy and will tolerate cool climates. Ranging between two to five feet tall, shrub roses will bloom heavily and frequently throughout the season. Due to their productivity, they have a large quantity of rose hips that need to be pruned regularly.
Mini roses feature petite blooms and are available in a variety of colors. Most mini rose plants average approximately fourteen inches high but these hardy roses can reach a height of up to three feet.
Roses are one of the most celebrated and recognized flowers in the world. With a little research or a visit to your local garden store, you will be able to determine which roses grow best in your area. How long it takes to grow roses depends upon the type of roses you select, the climate and soil quality in your garden. Roses are generally planted in the ground in early Spring in most areas but may be planted in late Fall in mild climates. Most roses will be ready for their first blooms in the summer. Floribunda, hybrid tea and shrub/hedge roses usually bloom six to eight weeks after planting. Climbing roses generally have a limited bloom during the first season but have a large bloom by the second year after planting.
Purchasing and Planting Your Roses
There are many different types of roses and their rate of growth is dependent upon the climate as well as the care they receive. To achieve maximum growth and blooms, select roses that are recommended for your area. If you purchased bare root roses through the mail, plant them as soon as possible. When you are ready to plant, fill a bucket with room-temperature water. Carefully unwrap the bare root plants from their packaging and then soak the root system in the water for approximately one hour prior to planting. Dig a cone-shaped hole 18 inches deep and spread the roots evenly. Remove any damaged, dead or broken roots and stems prior to planting. Add a mixture of soil combined up to a maximum of 25 percent compost and manure. Pack soil mixture firmly to fill in the hole and water.
Potted roses should be watered and placed in a sunny location. If you are planning to plant the potted roses in your garden, remove any damaged, dead or broken stems prior to planting. Dig a hole, place the rose bush into the hole and add a combination the soil, compost and manure mixture which has been mixed with loose soil from the container. Water lightly.
Growth of Popular Roses
Producing the classic long stemmed roses commonly sold by florists, Hybrid Teas are one of those most popular variety of roses. Mature Hybrid Tea plants can grow up to five feet high. Also growing up to five feet and with similar blooms, Grandifloras produce clusters of hybrid-tea roses but with shorter stems.
Climbing roses can be trained to entwine a trellis, a wall or an arbor but they frequently do not reach full blooming capacity until the second year of growth. Although they are usually between ten to twelve feet tall or wide, some climbing roses can grow up to twenty feet.
Floribundas are easy to grow roses which generally bloom continuously from June until the first hard frost. Averaging between two and four feet tall, Floribundas feature clusters of flowers on short stems.
Shrub roses are very hardy and will tolerate cool climates. Ranging between two to five feet tall, shrub roses will bloom heavily and frequently throughout the season. Due to their productivity, they have a large quantity of rose hips that need to be pruned regularly.
Mini roses feature petite blooms and are available in a variety of colors. Most mini rose plants average approximately fourteen inches high but these hardy roses can reach a height of up to three feet.
0
1
文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月29日
Snow in summer is a lovely plant with grayish green leaves and bright white flowers in June. It spreads beautifully and is useful in rock gardens where it can cascade down amongst other creeping species. A non-flowering snow in summer plant might seem a mystery, but these short lived plants need dividing annually and well-draining soil to perform properly. If you have no flowers on snow in summer plant, you might just need to fertilize or consider a site change to optimize the plant’s lighting and soil needs.
Snow in Summer Plant isn’t Blooming
Great masses of white blooms on silvery gray foliage are the hallmark of the snow in summer plant. Failure to form flowers might be related to site conditions, lack of nutrients, or simply poor snow in summer plant care. Another common cause of no flowers on snow in summer plant is planting in the incorrect zone. This is an alpine plant that thrives in United States Department of Agriculture zones 3 to 7. Planting it in tropical to semi-tropical zones will not afford it the chilling period it needs to form blooms.
Snow in summer plants form broad foliage mounds very quickly. They bloom in late spring to early summer, producing a carpet of bright white flowers quickly. The narrow leaves are evergreen and the plant will produce a 6-inch tall mat. In some climates, the flowers will self-seed if not removed from the plant. Fortunately, it takes to shearing or even a high mow to remove spent blooms and neaten the plant. When a snow in summer plant isn’t blooming, you may have sheared it at the wrong time. Trim plants after blooms or when flowers are just spent to prevent removing the next season’s bloom material.
To keep your plant happy, install it in the optimum location. Snow in summer likes slightly sandy, well-draining soil in full sun. It prefers areas with cool summer months and does not like excessive heat. It is drought tolerant once established but will grow faster and better with average moisture. One thing that will really make the plant unhappy is compact, clay soil which doesn’t drain well. This can lead to root rot and could cause a non-flowering snow in summer plant but is more likely to affect foliage first and can even trigger total plant death. Over time, the centers of the plant will fail to bloom, but division of the plant in early spring or autumn will help produce more compact plants and better blooming.
Snow in Summer Plant Care
Once snow in summer is established, it is best to leave it on the dry side. Water only when the top few inches of soil are dry. The plant can be an aggressive grower but shearing it after bloom will create a tighter plant and prevent it from overrunning the planting site. Clip them back to 2 inches in height and the plant will rapidly produce new foliage and stems. Luckily, snow in summer plants have no serious disease or pest issues. Soil that doesn’t drain well seems to be their biggest problem. Overhead watering during the warm, moist months should be discouraged, as rust can become an issue.
Fertilize in spring with a balanced all purpose, time release granule formula. This will feed the plant for up to 3 months, providing it nutrition to both flower and produce foliage. If necessary, you may want to encourage more blooms by using a high phosphorus fertilizer or adding bone meal to the soil around non-flowering snow in summer plants.
Snow in Summer Plant isn’t Blooming
Great masses of white blooms on silvery gray foliage are the hallmark of the snow in summer plant. Failure to form flowers might be related to site conditions, lack of nutrients, or simply poor snow in summer plant care. Another common cause of no flowers on snow in summer plant is planting in the incorrect zone. This is an alpine plant that thrives in United States Department of Agriculture zones 3 to 7. Planting it in tropical to semi-tropical zones will not afford it the chilling period it needs to form blooms.
Snow in summer plants form broad foliage mounds very quickly. They bloom in late spring to early summer, producing a carpet of bright white flowers quickly. The narrow leaves are evergreen and the plant will produce a 6-inch tall mat. In some climates, the flowers will self-seed if not removed from the plant. Fortunately, it takes to shearing or even a high mow to remove spent blooms and neaten the plant. When a snow in summer plant isn’t blooming, you may have sheared it at the wrong time. Trim plants after blooms or when flowers are just spent to prevent removing the next season’s bloom material.
To keep your plant happy, install it in the optimum location. Snow in summer likes slightly sandy, well-draining soil in full sun. It prefers areas with cool summer months and does not like excessive heat. It is drought tolerant once established but will grow faster and better with average moisture. One thing that will really make the plant unhappy is compact, clay soil which doesn’t drain well. This can lead to root rot and could cause a non-flowering snow in summer plant but is more likely to affect foliage first and can even trigger total plant death. Over time, the centers of the plant will fail to bloom, but division of the plant in early spring or autumn will help produce more compact plants and better blooming.
Snow in Summer Plant Care
Once snow in summer is established, it is best to leave it on the dry side. Water only when the top few inches of soil are dry. The plant can be an aggressive grower but shearing it after bloom will create a tighter plant and prevent it from overrunning the planting site. Clip them back to 2 inches in height and the plant will rapidly produce new foliage and stems. Luckily, snow in summer plants have no serious disease or pest issues. Soil that doesn’t drain well seems to be their biggest problem. Overhead watering during the warm, moist months should be discouraged, as rust can become an issue.
Fertilize in spring with a balanced all purpose, time release granule formula. This will feed the plant for up to 3 months, providing it nutrition to both flower and produce foliage. If necessary, you may want to encourage more blooms by using a high phosphorus fertilizer or adding bone meal to the soil around non-flowering snow in summer plants.
0
0
文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月29日
Saxifraga is a genus of plants found almost everywhere on earth. Typically, the plants form mounds or creeping mats and produce tiny flowers. There are approximately 480 species of the plant, and plant enthusiasts and breeders are introducing more each year. A very common and easy-to-grow variety is rockfoil. Information on how to grow rockfoil plants will allow you an easy entry into this diverse and attractive group of plants.
Rockfoil Saxifraga Information
A commonplace form of Saxifraga is mossy rockfoil. There are many types of rockfoil, but mossy rockfoil is readily available in nurseries and garden centers. The mossy varieties are in the section of Saxifraga called hypnoides. The plant is an excellent ground cover, forming a thick tenacious carpet over rocks and under trees.
Rockfoil produces its thickest and most lush foliage in spring. The bright green crinkly leaves pack tightly together and carpet rocks, pavers and lightly shaded nooks. In spring, tiny cupped flowers appear on slender stalks held above the body of the plant. The wiry stalks are tinged pink to purple and support blooms of salmon, pink, purple, white and other hues. The rockfoil flowers last into the early part of summer.
Once the flowers die back, the plant is exposed to drying air and sun without their shading protection. This often causes the plant to die in the center. Fill in the center with a light dusting of sandy grit to help the plant hold moisture and prevent core mortality. This is important rockfoil Saxifraga information to preserve the beauty of your plant. The perennial plant needs moist shade and is hardy in USDA plant hardiness zones 5 to 7 in temperate regions. Growing rockfoil requires cool sites which mimic its alpine native ranges.
How to Grow Rockfoil Plants
Mossy rockfoil has no special needs, provided you give it a location with some shelter from wind and hot sun. The plants require moist soil, especially in spring when they are growing the most. You can plant this Saxifraga from seed but for faster plants, divide a mature clump. Seeds require cold stratification for germination and can take two to three years to bloom. Growing rockfoil from divisions helps prevent the center die out and gives you more of these alpine plants for your garden. This species needs a moist rich loam for best performance. Mix in a little compost with existing soil at planting time.
Saxifraga Plant Care
Mulch around the plants to conserve moisture and help prevent weeds from growing up into the center of the plant as it spreads. Water twice per week in summer. In colder zones, mulch over the plant lightly to protect the roots from freezes, but pull away the mulch in early spring. This allows the new growth to burst out without having to push through the layer of mulch. Mossy rockfoil needs no pruning and has no staking or manual cultivation needs. As with any plant, watch for pests and disease with Saxifraga care and maintenance. It is prey to several species of insect and prone to rots and rust. Combat these by avoiding overhead watering when the plant can’t dry out quickly and with a fungicide or baking soda spray.
Rockfoil Saxifraga Information
A commonplace form of Saxifraga is mossy rockfoil. There are many types of rockfoil, but mossy rockfoil is readily available in nurseries and garden centers. The mossy varieties are in the section of Saxifraga called hypnoides. The plant is an excellent ground cover, forming a thick tenacious carpet over rocks and under trees.
Rockfoil produces its thickest and most lush foliage in spring. The bright green crinkly leaves pack tightly together and carpet rocks, pavers and lightly shaded nooks. In spring, tiny cupped flowers appear on slender stalks held above the body of the plant. The wiry stalks are tinged pink to purple and support blooms of salmon, pink, purple, white and other hues. The rockfoil flowers last into the early part of summer.
Once the flowers die back, the plant is exposed to drying air and sun without their shading protection. This often causes the plant to die in the center. Fill in the center with a light dusting of sandy grit to help the plant hold moisture and prevent core mortality. This is important rockfoil Saxifraga information to preserve the beauty of your plant. The perennial plant needs moist shade and is hardy in USDA plant hardiness zones 5 to 7 in temperate regions. Growing rockfoil requires cool sites which mimic its alpine native ranges.
How to Grow Rockfoil Plants
Mossy rockfoil has no special needs, provided you give it a location with some shelter from wind and hot sun. The plants require moist soil, especially in spring when they are growing the most. You can plant this Saxifraga from seed but for faster plants, divide a mature clump. Seeds require cold stratification for germination and can take two to three years to bloom. Growing rockfoil from divisions helps prevent the center die out and gives you more of these alpine plants for your garden. This species needs a moist rich loam for best performance. Mix in a little compost with existing soil at planting time.
Saxifraga Plant Care
Mulch around the plants to conserve moisture and help prevent weeds from growing up into the center of the plant as it spreads. Water twice per week in summer. In colder zones, mulch over the plant lightly to protect the roots from freezes, but pull away the mulch in early spring. This allows the new growth to burst out without having to push through the layer of mulch. Mossy rockfoil needs no pruning and has no staking or manual cultivation needs. As with any plant, watch for pests and disease with Saxifraga care and maintenance. It is prey to several species of insect and prone to rots and rust. Combat these by avoiding overhead watering when the plant can’t dry out quickly and with a fungicide or baking soda spray.
1
0
文章
Miss Chen
2017年08月29日
Knockout roses are flowering bushes that produce large, bright flowers. The fragrance produced is not as strong as other varieties of roses, and the flowers do not typically last as long after being cut. However, the knockout rose is exceptionally easy to care for, and is resistant to drought and many diseases. The flowers can be pink, red or yellow, and will bloom throughout most of the year in warm climates.
Planting
Plant knockout roses in a location that receives between six and eight hours of direct sunlight each day. Ensure the soil is fertile and has high drainage; additional organic compost can be added if necessary. Plant the roses in late April, after the last frost of the season and when the soil has warmed to a workable temperature.
Dig a hole 2 feet wide by 2 feet deep to plant each knockout rose. Transplant the bush directly into the hole and cover with soil. Water thoroughly after planting to compact the soil and collapse any air pockets.
Watering
Water the knockout roses two to three times a week until they become established. This will promote root growth, and help the plant create more food for developing leaves and blossoms. Reduce watering to about 1 inch per week after the first three months. Never allow the leaves to get wet, as this can cause disease. Water the roses as early in the day as possible, so any leaves that do become moist will dry out before the temperature drops in the evening.
Mulching and Fertilizing
Spread a 2- to 3-inch layer of mulch directly around the base of the knockout roses. This will help conserve water, maintain a constant soil temperature, add additional nutrients to the soil and discourage the growth of weeds. Replace the mulch after two or three months, or when it is visibly deteriorating.
Feed the knockout roses with a balanced fertilizer with 10-10-10 NPK or similar. Spread between ½ and 1 cup of fertilizer directly around the base of the plants in late April. Continue feeding every four to five weeks until late August. Prevent root burn by watering the roses before and after applying the fertilizer.
Pruning
Prune knockout roses once yearly in late March. Remove any stems that are dead, dying or diseased. Cut back all other stems to a length between one and two feet. This will provide more air circulation and light to penetrate to the inner portions of the bush, reducing the chance of fungi or diseases.
Planting
Plant knockout roses in a location that receives between six and eight hours of direct sunlight each day. Ensure the soil is fertile and has high drainage; additional organic compost can be added if necessary. Plant the roses in late April, after the last frost of the season and when the soil has warmed to a workable temperature.
Dig a hole 2 feet wide by 2 feet deep to plant each knockout rose. Transplant the bush directly into the hole and cover with soil. Water thoroughly after planting to compact the soil and collapse any air pockets.
Watering
Water the knockout roses two to three times a week until they become established. This will promote root growth, and help the plant create more food for developing leaves and blossoms. Reduce watering to about 1 inch per week after the first three months. Never allow the leaves to get wet, as this can cause disease. Water the roses as early in the day as possible, so any leaves that do become moist will dry out before the temperature drops in the evening.
Mulching and Fertilizing
Spread a 2- to 3-inch layer of mulch directly around the base of the knockout roses. This will help conserve water, maintain a constant soil temperature, add additional nutrients to the soil and discourage the growth of weeds. Replace the mulch after two or three months, or when it is visibly deteriorating.
Feed the knockout roses with a balanced fertilizer with 10-10-10 NPK or similar. Spread between ½ and 1 cup of fertilizer directly around the base of the plants in late April. Continue feeding every four to five weeks until late August. Prevent root burn by watering the roses before and after applying the fertilizer.
Pruning
Prune knockout roses once yearly in late March. Remove any stems that are dead, dying or diseased. Cut back all other stems to a length between one and two feet. This will provide more air circulation and light to penetrate to the inner portions of the bush, reducing the chance of fungi or diseases.
0
0
文章
Miss Chen
2017年08月29日
Deadheading is a type of pruning where faded blooms are removed from a plant. Plants, particularly roses, are deadheaded to extend the amount of time the plant produces flowers, keep the plant compact and tidy, and stop the plant from producing seeds. Knockout roses are deadheaded to keep the plant looking tidy as this rose produces blooms from mid to late spring through fall even without deadheading. Knockout roses produce flushes of blooms every five to six weeks. Removing faded blooms can decrease the time between bloom production and increase the size and quality of the flowers.
Disinfect Shears
Step 1
Make a disinfecting/sanitizing solution using bleach and water. Use a 1:10 dilution (1 part bleach to 10 parts water). Mixing the solution in a graded (has units of measurement on the side) bucket makes the solution portable as well as easier to mix. Sterilize your pruning shears in the 1:10 bleach solution between plants. Sterilize your pruning shears between cuts if you have a rose with a fungal or bacterial disease. Dip the cutting blades in the 1:10 solution. Open and close the blades several times while submerged. The blades do not have to dry before you start pruning.
Step 2
Prune faded and damaged blooms 1/2 to 1 inch above the nearest strong buds (the place where leaves and branches emerge) or branches.
Step 3
Avoid scratches and scrapes caused by rose thorns by wearing rose gloves or heavy-duty leather work gloves.
Step 4
Make pruning cuts on a 45-degree angle. The cut should angle away (meaning the short end should be closest to the bud or branch) from the bud or branch.
Step 5
Either burn deadheaded blooms or place in a trash bag and set out for trash pickup.
Disinfect Shears
Step 1
Make a disinfecting/sanitizing solution using bleach and water. Use a 1:10 dilution (1 part bleach to 10 parts water). Mixing the solution in a graded (has units of measurement on the side) bucket makes the solution portable as well as easier to mix. Sterilize your pruning shears in the 1:10 bleach solution between plants. Sterilize your pruning shears between cuts if you have a rose with a fungal or bacterial disease. Dip the cutting blades in the 1:10 solution. Open and close the blades several times while submerged. The blades do not have to dry before you start pruning.
Step 2
Prune faded and damaged blooms 1/2 to 1 inch above the nearest strong buds (the place where leaves and branches emerge) or branches.
Step 3
Avoid scratches and scrapes caused by rose thorns by wearing rose gloves or heavy-duty leather work gloves.
Step 4
Make pruning cuts on a 45-degree angle. The cut should angle away (meaning the short end should be closest to the bud or branch) from the bud or branch.
Step 5
Either burn deadheaded blooms or place in a trash bag and set out for trash pickup.
0
1
文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月29日
If you are looking for a ground cover or rockery plant with contrasting color and unique texture, look no further than partridge feather ground cover. What types of partridge flower info do you need to know to successfully grow partridge feather flowers? Read on to find out.
Partridge Flower Info
Interestingly, partridge feather ground cover (Tanacetum densum) was introduced to the U.S. from Southeastern Turkey in the 1950’s but for some reason no one thought to name the plant ‘turkey feather.’ Regardless, the use of the term ‘feather’ is definitely apt. The leaves of the partridge plant look very much like fuzzy, silvery feathers.
An evergreen, the plant might, and more appropriately, be referred to as a low-growing shrub, albeit a very short one. Leaves are 3 inches long and of a soft, wooly texture delicately notched much like feathers. Forming a mounding habit, this perennial has a woody base and attains a height of between 3-5 inches by 15-24 inches across.
Another lovely thing about growing partridge feather flowers is, well, the flowers. The plant bears eye-catching yellow and white button-like blossoms during late June and into early July. They make for a nice contrast against the silvery foliage and add a little bit of drama to the landscape, especially in a large grouping. They also are excellent attractors of butterflies and make nice cutting flowers.
Partridge Feather Growing Conditions
Before trying your hand at growing partridge feather flowers, you must become familiar with partridge feather growing conditions, which may include full sun to part shade. These sun loving, drought tolerant specimens are perfect for use in the rock garden where the contrast of the silver leaves is striking amidst the greens of other foliage. It also has a habit of crawling over and down stones, and enjoys the great drainage that rock gardens employ. Partridge feather tolerates most soil types and conditions, with the exception of overly wet or humid weather.
It is USDA hardy to zones 4-9. Once the plant is established, it requires very little irrigation, so caring for partridge feather plants couldn’t be easier. Companion plants that work well with partridge flower include:
Winecups
Mexican Hat Coneflower
Coral Canyon Twinspur
Mojave Sage
Johnson’s Blue Geranium
Partridge feather has few to no pests. Some care should be around the leaves, however, since they may irritate the skin of some people. All in all, a striking and easy to care for plant often used in xeriscape gardening, partridge feather flower makes a unique addition to the landscape.
Partridge Flower Info
Interestingly, partridge feather ground cover (Tanacetum densum) was introduced to the U.S. from Southeastern Turkey in the 1950’s but for some reason no one thought to name the plant ‘turkey feather.’ Regardless, the use of the term ‘feather’ is definitely apt. The leaves of the partridge plant look very much like fuzzy, silvery feathers.
An evergreen, the plant might, and more appropriately, be referred to as a low-growing shrub, albeit a very short one. Leaves are 3 inches long and of a soft, wooly texture delicately notched much like feathers. Forming a mounding habit, this perennial has a woody base and attains a height of between 3-5 inches by 15-24 inches across.
Another lovely thing about growing partridge feather flowers is, well, the flowers. The plant bears eye-catching yellow and white button-like blossoms during late June and into early July. They make for a nice contrast against the silvery foliage and add a little bit of drama to the landscape, especially in a large grouping. They also are excellent attractors of butterflies and make nice cutting flowers.
Partridge Feather Growing Conditions
Before trying your hand at growing partridge feather flowers, you must become familiar with partridge feather growing conditions, which may include full sun to part shade. These sun loving, drought tolerant specimens are perfect for use in the rock garden where the contrast of the silver leaves is striking amidst the greens of other foliage. It also has a habit of crawling over and down stones, and enjoys the great drainage that rock gardens employ. Partridge feather tolerates most soil types and conditions, with the exception of overly wet or humid weather.
It is USDA hardy to zones 4-9. Once the plant is established, it requires very little irrigation, so caring for partridge feather plants couldn’t be easier. Companion plants that work well with partridge flower include:
Winecups
Mexican Hat Coneflower
Coral Canyon Twinspur
Mojave Sage
Johnson’s Blue Geranium
Partridge feather has few to no pests. Some care should be around the leaves, however, since they may irritate the skin of some people. All in all, a striking and easy to care for plant often used in xeriscape gardening, partridge feather flower makes a unique addition to the landscape.
0
0
文章
Miss Chen
2017年08月29日
Best grown in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 7 to 9, the confederate rose (Hibiscus mutabilis) features large, showy flowers that start off white but quickly change to deep pink or reddish pink, with a blueish cast near the end of their bloom cycle. Especially enchanting is the fact that these cycles happen on different parts of the large bush simultaneously, so that the plant appears to feature multi-colored blooms.
Step 1
Site the planting area where the confederate rose will receive full sun, or dappled shade in the hotter part of its range. The confederate rose is best grown as a specimen tree or large shrub, but if planted in a border should have at least 5 feet on either side.
Step 2
Prepare the planting area. Although confederate roses adapt well to most soil conditions, working a 2-inch layer of compost into the soil will help improve the nutrition and texture of the soil. Work the compost about 12 inches deep throughout an area that's about 100 feet square. This will improve the nutrient level and soil texture throughout the eventual growing zone.
Step 3
Dig a hole that is about the depth of the shrub's root ball, and at least twice as wide. Set the confederate rose in the hole, and backfill the hole with soil. Press down on the soil to remove airpockets, and water the area deeply.
Step 4
Mulch the area around the confederate rose with a 2-inch layer of wood chips or other organic material. Keep the mulch several inches away from the base of the shrub itself.
Step 5
Check the soil around the confederate shrub daily in the first few month after planting. To get them off to the best start, young shrubs need consistently moist soil during their first growing season.
Step 6
Water about every two weeks as the confederate rose matures. Shrubs should be watered to a depth of about 2 feet. If you are not able to water as often or as deeply as recommended for shrubs like the confederate rose that prefer moderate watering, take heart. Confederate roses are somewhat drought tolerant, although they may experience some wilting in scorching heat and no water.
Step 7
Prune the confederate rose, if size is a concern. Many gardeners only lightly shear the shrubs for a more even silhouette. It is possible, however, to cut a to a confederate rose to a height of 12 inches during dormancy, which will allow it to grow to a moderate and bushier height the following season. Sterilize the shears after pruning by misting them with, or dipping them into, a cleaning solution such as bleach or rubbing alcohol. Wipe them dry after their treatment.
Step 8
Spread a 1- to 2-inch layer of compost around the shrub each spring, starting from a few inches away for the base to under the plant's outermost branches. This action will continue to improve the growing environment as the confederate rose matures.
Step 1
Site the planting area where the confederate rose will receive full sun, or dappled shade in the hotter part of its range. The confederate rose is best grown as a specimen tree or large shrub, but if planted in a border should have at least 5 feet on either side.
Step 2
Prepare the planting area. Although confederate roses adapt well to most soil conditions, working a 2-inch layer of compost into the soil will help improve the nutrition and texture of the soil. Work the compost about 12 inches deep throughout an area that's about 100 feet square. This will improve the nutrient level and soil texture throughout the eventual growing zone.
Step 3
Dig a hole that is about the depth of the shrub's root ball, and at least twice as wide. Set the confederate rose in the hole, and backfill the hole with soil. Press down on the soil to remove airpockets, and water the area deeply.
Step 4
Mulch the area around the confederate rose with a 2-inch layer of wood chips or other organic material. Keep the mulch several inches away from the base of the shrub itself.
Step 5
Check the soil around the confederate shrub daily in the first few month after planting. To get them off to the best start, young shrubs need consistently moist soil during their first growing season.
Step 6
Water about every two weeks as the confederate rose matures. Shrubs should be watered to a depth of about 2 feet. If you are not able to water as often or as deeply as recommended for shrubs like the confederate rose that prefer moderate watering, take heart. Confederate roses are somewhat drought tolerant, although they may experience some wilting in scorching heat and no water.
Step 7
Prune the confederate rose, if size is a concern. Many gardeners only lightly shear the shrubs for a more even silhouette. It is possible, however, to cut a to a confederate rose to a height of 12 inches during dormancy, which will allow it to grow to a moderate and bushier height the following season. Sterilize the shears after pruning by misting them with, or dipping them into, a cleaning solution such as bleach or rubbing alcohol. Wipe them dry after their treatment.
Step 8
Spread a 1- to 2-inch layer of compost around the shrub each spring, starting from a few inches away for the base to under the plant's outermost branches. This action will continue to improve the growing environment as the confederate rose matures.
0
0
文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月29日
What is Lithodora? Botanically known as Lithodora diffusa, this plant is a hardy ground cover that produces masses of tiny, intensely blue, star-shaped flowers from late spring throughout most of summer. What to know more about growing Lithodora ground cover? Read on to find out.
Lithodora Plant Information
Lithodora planted in gardens reaches heights of only 6 to 10 inches (15-25 cm.), but a single plant can eventually spread 24 to 36 inches (61-91 cm.). You can easily grow Lithodora in gardens in USDA plant hardiness zones 6 through 10. In the more southern ranges, the dense covering of narrow, dark-green leaves remain green year round.
Lithodora ground cover is a great choice for rock gardens. It also works well in window boxes or containers. Lithodora is relatively easy to find in garden centers. Otherwise, plant Lithodora seeds directly in the garden, or start them indoors a few weeks ahead of time. You can also propagate cuttings from established plants in mid- to late summer.
Growing Lithodora Ground Cover
Acidic, well-drained soil is best for growing Lithodora in gardens. Sandy soil is fine, but the plant won’t tolerate heavy clay soil. Although Lithodora thrives in full sunlight, partial shade isn’t a problem. Afternoon shade is best in hot climates. As for the care of Lithodora, water the plant regularly and don’t allow the soil to become bone dry. However, beware of overwatering and avoid soggy, waterlogged soil. Apply mulch in autumn if you live in a cooler region. Prune Lithodora lightly if it looks straggly, or if the leaves are damaged by winter cold.
Lithodora generally requires no fertilizer unless the leaves turn pale greenish-yellow. If this occurs, provide a fertilizer for rhododendron, azalea or other acid-loving plants in late winter or very early spring. If you notice aphids, treat the plant with insecticidal soap spray. Otherwise, pests are usually not a problem.
Lithodora Plant Information
Lithodora planted in gardens reaches heights of only 6 to 10 inches (15-25 cm.), but a single plant can eventually spread 24 to 36 inches (61-91 cm.). You can easily grow Lithodora in gardens in USDA plant hardiness zones 6 through 10. In the more southern ranges, the dense covering of narrow, dark-green leaves remain green year round.
Lithodora ground cover is a great choice for rock gardens. It also works well in window boxes or containers. Lithodora is relatively easy to find in garden centers. Otherwise, plant Lithodora seeds directly in the garden, or start them indoors a few weeks ahead of time. You can also propagate cuttings from established plants in mid- to late summer.
Growing Lithodora Ground Cover
Acidic, well-drained soil is best for growing Lithodora in gardens. Sandy soil is fine, but the plant won’t tolerate heavy clay soil. Although Lithodora thrives in full sunlight, partial shade isn’t a problem. Afternoon shade is best in hot climates. As for the care of Lithodora, water the plant regularly and don’t allow the soil to become bone dry. However, beware of overwatering and avoid soggy, waterlogged soil. Apply mulch in autumn if you live in a cooler region. Prune Lithodora lightly if it looks straggly, or if the leaves are damaged by winter cold.
Lithodora generally requires no fertilizer unless the leaves turn pale greenish-yellow. If this occurs, provide a fertilizer for rhododendron, azalea or other acid-loving plants in late winter or very early spring. If you notice aphids, treat the plant with insecticidal soap spray. Otherwise, pests are usually not a problem.
2
1
文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月29日
Native to the eastern United States, golden star plants (Chrysogonum virginianum) produce an abundance of bright, yellow-gold flowers from spring until autumn. They are ideal for an area that needs a continuous, uniform ground cover, but also look good in borders and as a low edging plant. The plants require very little care, and growing golden stars on steep banks solves mowing and maintenance problems. The plants develop tight, green foliage topped with bright gold flowers, giving rise to the common name green-and-gold.
Growing Golden Stars
Growing golden stars is easy. Golden star plants need at least half a day of sunlight. When grown in less light, the foliage loosens up and flowers are smaller and fewer in number.
The plants tolerate almost any type of soil, but do best when the soil is amended with plenty of organic matter. Good drainage is also essential. Space the plants 8 to 18 inches apart and allow them to spread and fill in the area.
Golden star plants make an excellent ground cover. One of the best varieties for this purpose is C. virginianum var. austral, which is sold under the cultivar name ‘Eco-Lacquered Spider.’ This cultivar spreads quickly by taking root everywhere the stolons come in contact with soil. It also self-seeds, and the seedlings germinate in spring. When using a cultivar of this golden star ground cover, space the plants 18 inches apart.
Care of Golden Star Ground Cover
Water the plants to keep the soil evenly moist but not wet or soggy. A thin layer of mulch helps the soil hold moisture and reduces the number of weeds. However, too much mulch slows the spread of green-and-gold plants because the stolons are less likely to come in contact with soil. Every other year, the plants should be lifted and divided or transplanted to another area. When lifting the plants, shake them to remove as much soil as possible. This stimulates the roots and reinvigorates the plants.
Golden star plants are sometimes bothered by slugs and snails. Control these pests with slug and snail bait. Read the label carefully to make sure the product you choose is safe around children, pets and wildlife.
Growing Golden Stars
Growing golden stars is easy. Golden star plants need at least half a day of sunlight. When grown in less light, the foliage loosens up and flowers are smaller and fewer in number.
The plants tolerate almost any type of soil, but do best when the soil is amended with plenty of organic matter. Good drainage is also essential. Space the plants 8 to 18 inches apart and allow them to spread and fill in the area.
Golden star plants make an excellent ground cover. One of the best varieties for this purpose is C. virginianum var. austral, which is sold under the cultivar name ‘Eco-Lacquered Spider.’ This cultivar spreads quickly by taking root everywhere the stolons come in contact with soil. It also self-seeds, and the seedlings germinate in spring. When using a cultivar of this golden star ground cover, space the plants 18 inches apart.
Care of Golden Star Ground Cover
Water the plants to keep the soil evenly moist but not wet or soggy. A thin layer of mulch helps the soil hold moisture and reduces the number of weeds. However, too much mulch slows the spread of green-and-gold plants because the stolons are less likely to come in contact with soil. Every other year, the plants should be lifted and divided or transplanted to another area. When lifting the plants, shake them to remove as much soil as possible. This stimulates the roots and reinvigorates the plants.
Golden star plants are sometimes bothered by slugs and snails. Control these pests with slug and snail bait. Read the label carefully to make sure the product you choose is safe around children, pets and wildlife.
0
0
