文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月19日
Yet another wildflower favorite and must have for the garden is the Tradescantia (Spiderwort) plant. These interesting flowers not only offer something different to the landscape but are extremely easy to grow and care for.
So how did such a lovely plant get such an unusual common name? While no one may know for certain, some people think the plant was named for the way its flowers hang down like spiders. Others believe it comes from its medicinal properties, as it was once used to treat spider bites. At any rate, it’s well worth having in the garden.
The three-petaled Tradescantia flowers are usually blue to purple, but may also be pink, white or red. They only remain open for a day (blooming in morning hours and closing at night), but the multiple flowers will continually bloom for up to four to six weeks in summer. The plant’s foliage consists of arching grass-like leaves that will grow about a foot or two in height, depending on the variety.
Since Tradescantia plants grow in clumps, they’re great for use in borders, edging, woodland gardens and even containers. You can even grow it as an indoor plant if garden space is limited.
Growing Conditions
Growing Tradescantia is easy and you’ll find the plants to be quite resilient. They’re hardy in USDA plant hardiness zones 4-9 and will tolerate more than what one would expect. Tradescantia typically grow in moist, well-drained and acidic (pH 5 to 6) soil, though I have found the plants to be quite forgiving in the garden and tolerant of many soil conditions. Tradescantia plants do best in partial shade but will do equally well in sunny areas as long as the soil is kept moist.
Propagation
Tradescantia can be grown from purchased plants or propagated through division, cuttings or seed. Plant them in spring about 4 to 6 inches (10 to 15 cm) deep and 8 to 12 inches (20 to 30 cm) apart. Stem cuttings in summer or fall will easily root in soil. Seeds can be sown outdoors in either fall or early spring and should be lightly covered.
If starting Tradescantia seeds indoors, do so about eight weeks prior to transplanting outside. It should take anywhere from 10 days to six weeks for germination to occur. Hardened seedlings can be transplanted outdoors about a week after the last spring frost.
Tradescantia as an Indoor Plant
You can grow Tradescantia indoors too as long as suitable conditions are given. Provide the plant with either a soilless mix or loam-based potting compost and keep it in bright filtered light. You should also pinch out the growing tips to encourage bushier growth.
Allow it to spend warm spring and summers days outdoors, if feasible. During its active growth, water moderately and apply a balanced liquid fertilizer every four weeks. Water sparingly in winter.
Grower’s Tips
These plants like to be kept fairly moist, so water regularly, especially if you’re growing them in containers. Cutting the plants back once flowering has ceased can often promote a second bloom and will help prevent re-seeding. Cut the stems back about 8 to 12 inches (20 to 30 cm) from the ground.
Since Tradescantia is a vigorous grower, it’s probably a good idea to divide the plants in spring every three years or so.
So how did such a lovely plant get such an unusual common name? While no one may know for certain, some people think the plant was named for the way its flowers hang down like spiders. Others believe it comes from its medicinal properties, as it was once used to treat spider bites. At any rate, it’s well worth having in the garden.
The three-petaled Tradescantia flowers are usually blue to purple, but may also be pink, white or red. They only remain open for a day (blooming in morning hours and closing at night), but the multiple flowers will continually bloom for up to four to six weeks in summer. The plant’s foliage consists of arching grass-like leaves that will grow about a foot or two in height, depending on the variety.
Since Tradescantia plants grow in clumps, they’re great for use in borders, edging, woodland gardens and even containers. You can even grow it as an indoor plant if garden space is limited.
Growing Conditions
Growing Tradescantia is easy and you’ll find the plants to be quite resilient. They’re hardy in USDA plant hardiness zones 4-9 and will tolerate more than what one would expect. Tradescantia typically grow in moist, well-drained and acidic (pH 5 to 6) soil, though I have found the plants to be quite forgiving in the garden and tolerant of many soil conditions. Tradescantia plants do best in partial shade but will do equally well in sunny areas as long as the soil is kept moist.
Propagation
Tradescantia can be grown from purchased plants or propagated through division, cuttings or seed. Plant them in spring about 4 to 6 inches (10 to 15 cm) deep and 8 to 12 inches (20 to 30 cm) apart. Stem cuttings in summer or fall will easily root in soil. Seeds can be sown outdoors in either fall or early spring and should be lightly covered.
If starting Tradescantia seeds indoors, do so about eight weeks prior to transplanting outside. It should take anywhere from 10 days to six weeks for germination to occur. Hardened seedlings can be transplanted outdoors about a week after the last spring frost.
Tradescantia as an Indoor Plant
You can grow Tradescantia indoors too as long as suitable conditions are given. Provide the plant with either a soilless mix or loam-based potting compost and keep it in bright filtered light. You should also pinch out the growing tips to encourage bushier growth.
Allow it to spend warm spring and summers days outdoors, if feasible. During its active growth, water moderately and apply a balanced liquid fertilizer every four weeks. Water sparingly in winter.
Grower’s Tips
These plants like to be kept fairly moist, so water regularly, especially if you’re growing them in containers. Cutting the plants back once flowering has ceased can often promote a second bloom and will help prevent re-seeding. Cut the stems back about 8 to 12 inches (20 to 30 cm) from the ground.
Since Tradescantia is a vigorous grower, it’s probably a good idea to divide the plants in spring every three years or so.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月19日
If you are fighting your Aloe vera plant for flowers, you are not alone. Most people struggle to get their Aloe vera plants to bloom when growing them indoors. But their usual yellow or orange tubular flowers, grown high on long, elegant stems, are a rare sighting in households due to the inadequate sunlight they receive.
Aloe vera plants are built for the desert climate of Africa, where they receive large amounts of direct sunlight for a majority of the day. This large dose of bright light that Aloe veras are accustomed to does not translate smoothly to a household setting, where the location of the house and the plant may limit the amount of sunlight that reaches the plant.
Adjusting the Indoor Placement of Your Aloe Vera Plant
Due to the natural environment of the Aloe vera, the main trick is to give your houseplant as much light as possible. Indoor placement is key. Typically sitting on kitchen windowsills, the Aloe vera plant does not receive the sunlight it is used to or needs when raised indoors. You want to place your plant on a windowsill that receives a lot of direct sunlight, with nothing obstructing the plant’s line of sunlight or keeping it in the shade. At certain points in the day, some areas of your house also receive more light than others. Therefore, it is best to change the location of your plant throughout the day, allowing for it to follow the sun. The more exposure to sunlight, the better. During the summer months, you can also move your plant outside, as it is no longer in danger of freezing and an outdoor environment nicely mimics the high-sunlight desert conditions it needs to bloom.
Other Tricks for Getting Your Resistant Aloe to Bloom:
1. Wait for your Aloe Plant to Mature
You may be expecting too much from your newborn plant. Aloe veras tend to bloom only once they have reached maturity–a stage in their life that takes approximately 4 years to reach. If you have just begun caring for your plant, it is simply not ready. Have patience, and while you are waiting, take proper care of your Aloe vera by giving it the sunlight, water, and soil it needs to reach old age and bloom.
2. Know When To Expect Aloe Vera Flowers
Aloe vera plants do not have flowers year-round. They usually bloom annually in the early springtime, so time your expectations correctly. If you are concerned why your plant has no signs of buds in the winter, that is just because the timing is not yet right.
3. Fertilize or Repot Your Plant
A healthy Aloe vera plant is more likely to produce the bright flowers you are looking for. To be healthy, an Aloe vera needs soil that can provides it with adequate nutrients. By either giving your plant fertilizer to replenish the old soil’s vitamins and minerals or repotting it to give it new soil and a new supply of nutrients, you can keep your plant healthy and watch it grow.
Another way to encourage Aloe vera plants to bloom is by propagating them. The Aloe vera plant has bulbs that grow off of the main plant; you can and should remove them if you want a flowering plant. By taking away the additional bulbs, you give the main plant more energy to put into producing those tall, beautiful flowers.
If you succeed in getting your Aloe vera plant to bloom indoors, congratulations! Enjoy the rare beauty.
Aloe vera plants are built for the desert climate of Africa, where they receive large amounts of direct sunlight for a majority of the day. This large dose of bright light that Aloe veras are accustomed to does not translate smoothly to a household setting, where the location of the house and the plant may limit the amount of sunlight that reaches the plant.
Adjusting the Indoor Placement of Your Aloe Vera Plant
Due to the natural environment of the Aloe vera, the main trick is to give your houseplant as much light as possible. Indoor placement is key. Typically sitting on kitchen windowsills, the Aloe vera plant does not receive the sunlight it is used to or needs when raised indoors. You want to place your plant on a windowsill that receives a lot of direct sunlight, with nothing obstructing the plant’s line of sunlight or keeping it in the shade. At certain points in the day, some areas of your house also receive more light than others. Therefore, it is best to change the location of your plant throughout the day, allowing for it to follow the sun. The more exposure to sunlight, the better. During the summer months, you can also move your plant outside, as it is no longer in danger of freezing and an outdoor environment nicely mimics the high-sunlight desert conditions it needs to bloom.
Other Tricks for Getting Your Resistant Aloe to Bloom:
1. Wait for your Aloe Plant to Mature
You may be expecting too much from your newborn plant. Aloe veras tend to bloom only once they have reached maturity–a stage in their life that takes approximately 4 years to reach. If you have just begun caring for your plant, it is simply not ready. Have patience, and while you are waiting, take proper care of your Aloe vera by giving it the sunlight, water, and soil it needs to reach old age and bloom.
2. Know When To Expect Aloe Vera Flowers
Aloe vera plants do not have flowers year-round. They usually bloom annually in the early springtime, so time your expectations correctly. If you are concerned why your plant has no signs of buds in the winter, that is just because the timing is not yet right.
3. Fertilize or Repot Your Plant
A healthy Aloe vera plant is more likely to produce the bright flowers you are looking for. To be healthy, an Aloe vera needs soil that can provides it with adequate nutrients. By either giving your plant fertilizer to replenish the old soil’s vitamins and minerals or repotting it to give it new soil and a new supply of nutrients, you can keep your plant healthy and watch it grow.
Another way to encourage Aloe vera plants to bloom is by propagating them. The Aloe vera plant has bulbs that grow off of the main plant; you can and should remove them if you want a flowering plant. By taking away the additional bulbs, you give the main plant more energy to put into producing those tall, beautiful flowers.
If you succeed in getting your Aloe vera plant to bloom indoors, congratulations! Enjoy the rare beauty.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月19日
Succulent plants are grown primarily for the structure of their water-storing stems, leaves or roots, which give lasting interest. Flowers are a wonderful bonus, but often succulents are shy to bloom, especially if they are indoor container plants. Find out what conditions prevail in the plants’ natural habitat to get clues about what growth conditions and seasonal cycles they need. Supplying winter cold, summer heat, fertilizer or more intense light may be all that’s needed for successful flowering.
Temperature
Many succulents need higher temperatures in summer to set their blooming chemistry. Climate-controlled homes don’t provide the needed temperature extremes. Succulents benefit from being moved outdoors for the summer months, but the move should be gradual, exposing them to more heat and sunlight over a couple of weeks, until they are in partial sun and warm temperatures. Plants from cold-winter deserts, like interior western American deserts and high-altitude South American deserts, need winter dormancy and cold temperatures to induce spring blooms. Put such plants in cool areas for the winter months.
Fertilizer
Producing a flower is important to a plant, because seeds are needed to perpetuate the species, so they will flower if possible. However, they need plant food to provide the building blocks for flower formation. In deserts, the soil actually provides good nutrition because there’s not a lot of rain to leach plant nutrients out of the soil. Under cultivation, fertilize succulents beginning in spring as the plant begins growth. Use half-strength fertilizer once a month while the plant is growing, discontinuing feeding in late summer or early fall. Use a fertilizer higher in phosphorus, such as 10-15-10, to promote flower formation.
Water
Succulents need water to form flower buds and produce new growth. If they don’t get it, they deplete the stores of water in their tissues that they need to survive drought — they live, but do not thrive. During growth periods, water plants thoroughly until water comes out the pot’s drainage holes, but don’t water again until the top inch of soil is dry. Most succulents undergo dormancy for part of the year, usually in either winter for cacti or summer for plants like Living Stones (Lithops), and this rest period is needed to set the stage for flowering. Keep the plant drier during dormancy. All succulents need very well-draining potting mix.
Light
Arid-land plants, even if they’re growing under a bush in nature, receive a lot of direct and indirect light that can be difficult to duplicate indoors. An eastern or southern window is a good choice for most cacti. Most succulents need sunlight for half the day, preferably morning, to produce the food needed for blooming. If growth is open and lax on leaf or stem succulents that should be compact, there’s not enough light for flowering. If globular cacti are stretching for the light, they won’t flower. There are only a few kinds of succulents — such as Gasterias, Haworthias and some Aloes — that will bloom if kept in full shade. If sufficient natural light is lacking, grow succulents under grow lights.
Photoperiod
Related to light conditions are the number of hours in the day and night as the seasons change. Photo periodicity is important in setting the biological clocks of all organisms, from humans to plants. Some succulents, like the Holiday Cacti (Schlumbergera cultivars) need long-night, short-day conditions plus cool temperatures to initiate flower buds. For many other succulents, it is the increasing day length plus warming spring temperatures that signals buds to grow. Receiving supplemental light that artificially lengthens or shortens the nights can interfere with flowering.
Temperature
Many succulents need higher temperatures in summer to set their blooming chemistry. Climate-controlled homes don’t provide the needed temperature extremes. Succulents benefit from being moved outdoors for the summer months, but the move should be gradual, exposing them to more heat and sunlight over a couple of weeks, until they are in partial sun and warm temperatures. Plants from cold-winter deserts, like interior western American deserts and high-altitude South American deserts, need winter dormancy and cold temperatures to induce spring blooms. Put such plants in cool areas for the winter months.
Fertilizer
Producing a flower is important to a plant, because seeds are needed to perpetuate the species, so they will flower if possible. However, they need plant food to provide the building blocks for flower formation. In deserts, the soil actually provides good nutrition because there’s not a lot of rain to leach plant nutrients out of the soil. Under cultivation, fertilize succulents beginning in spring as the plant begins growth. Use half-strength fertilizer once a month while the plant is growing, discontinuing feeding in late summer or early fall. Use a fertilizer higher in phosphorus, such as 10-15-10, to promote flower formation.
Water
Succulents need water to form flower buds and produce new growth. If they don’t get it, they deplete the stores of water in their tissues that they need to survive drought — they live, but do not thrive. During growth periods, water plants thoroughly until water comes out the pot’s drainage holes, but don’t water again until the top inch of soil is dry. Most succulents undergo dormancy for part of the year, usually in either winter for cacti or summer for plants like Living Stones (Lithops), and this rest period is needed to set the stage for flowering. Keep the plant drier during dormancy. All succulents need very well-draining potting mix.
Light
Arid-land plants, even if they’re growing under a bush in nature, receive a lot of direct and indirect light that can be difficult to duplicate indoors. An eastern or southern window is a good choice for most cacti. Most succulents need sunlight for half the day, preferably morning, to produce the food needed for blooming. If growth is open and lax on leaf or stem succulents that should be compact, there’s not enough light for flowering. If globular cacti are stretching for the light, they won’t flower. There are only a few kinds of succulents — such as Gasterias, Haworthias and some Aloes — that will bloom if kept in full shade. If sufficient natural light is lacking, grow succulents under grow lights.
Photoperiod
Related to light conditions are the number of hours in the day and night as the seasons change. Photo periodicity is important in setting the biological clocks of all organisms, from humans to plants. Some succulents, like the Holiday Cacti (Schlumbergera cultivars) need long-night, short-day conditions plus cool temperatures to initiate flower buds. For many other succulents, it is the increasing day length plus warming spring temperatures that signals buds to grow. Receiving supplemental light that artificially lengthens or shortens the nights can interfere with flowering.
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3
文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月19日
Crassula ovata is a succulent native to South Africa and is commonly called the Jade Plant or Money Plant. It has jade green, egg-shaped leaves and bears small pink or white flowers. The jade plant is a favorite indoor plant that can grow into a small tree or shrub up to 5 feet (1.5 m) tall, although it can be easily trained into bonsai form. It will grow outdoors in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zone 10, but is better grown indoors in USDA zones below that where prolonged winter cold can kill it.
Problems With Growth
Jade Plants grown in pots can become root bound and top heavy causing them to tip over easily. Repot in the spring every two to three years or when it becomes top heavy. If you repot to the same size pot, prune the roots and stems to develop a thick main trunk. Do not overwater until the plant is growing well in the new container.
Problems With Sun and Temperature
A Jade Plant will grow in partial shade, but it needs sun to produce blooms. Overexposure to direct sun or heat can scorch the leaves. Do not put a Jade Plant behind glass in full sun. Too much heat can cause it to drop its leaves and the stems may begin to rot. Do not let its foliage touch cold window panes in the winter and protect it from drafts.
Watering Problems
A Jade Plant will withstand dry periods and will develop root rot if you leave it in soggy soil. This is a particular problem for jades grown in pots. Water sparingly when it is actively growing in the spring and summer. Let the soil dry between watering. Do not water in the winter. Drought can cause stunted growth and leaves to develop spots and drop, eventually killing it.
Pests
Mealybugs that look like small white puffs of cotton commonly infect jade plants. Insecticidal soap may damage the plant; instead, wipe them off with a cotton swab dipped in alcohol.
Spreading Problems
Although Crassula ovata is not listed on California’s list of noxious weeds, it spreads easily from leaves and pieces of stems that break off and grow. The Jade Plant grows wild in warmer wetlands and coastal areas and in many canyons near urban areas of Southern California. If you live in an area warm enough to grow it outdoors, ensure that you can contain its potential to spread.
Problems With Growth
Jade Plants grown in pots can become root bound and top heavy causing them to tip over easily. Repot in the spring every two to three years or when it becomes top heavy. If you repot to the same size pot, prune the roots and stems to develop a thick main trunk. Do not overwater until the plant is growing well in the new container.
Problems With Sun and Temperature
A Jade Plant will grow in partial shade, but it needs sun to produce blooms. Overexposure to direct sun or heat can scorch the leaves. Do not put a Jade Plant behind glass in full sun. Too much heat can cause it to drop its leaves and the stems may begin to rot. Do not let its foliage touch cold window panes in the winter and protect it from drafts.
Watering Problems
A Jade Plant will withstand dry periods and will develop root rot if you leave it in soggy soil. This is a particular problem for jades grown in pots. Water sparingly when it is actively growing in the spring and summer. Let the soil dry between watering. Do not water in the winter. Drought can cause stunted growth and leaves to develop spots and drop, eventually killing it.
Pests
Mealybugs that look like small white puffs of cotton commonly infect jade plants. Insecticidal soap may damage the plant; instead, wipe them off with a cotton swab dipped in alcohol.
Spreading Problems
Although Crassula ovata is not listed on California’s list of noxious weeds, it spreads easily from leaves and pieces of stems that break off and grow. The Jade Plant grows wild in warmer wetlands and coastal areas and in many canyons near urban areas of Southern California. If you live in an area warm enough to grow it outdoors, ensure that you can contain its potential to spread.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月18日
Lampranthus is a fairly large genus with 100-150 species coming from South Africa. It provides some of the most spectacular displays of bright flowers from the succulent world, and is widely used as ground cover, either annual or perennial as the climate allows. Several species are used for landscaping and vary from shrubby to trailing, and they also for the flowering period. All the species tend to become woody as they age.
The genus name “Lampranthus” means “shining-flowers” in Latin, and the species of this genus have large, extremely bright flowers, of a range of colors (sometimes even bi-colored), that usually appear in summer, and frequently cover the plants entirely. The species of this genus typically have long, smooth, elongated, succulent leaves. These can be triangular or cylindrical, and appear in opposite pairs on the shrubs’ branches.
The spectacular flowers need full sun to open. As most mesemb, they are followed by woody capsules that open when wet, to insure propagation of the seeds at the best possible time.
Growing Conditions and General Care
Lampranthus are generally hardy in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 8 through 11, but this varies depending on the species.
Lampranthus thrive in well-drained, poor soils and are suitable for soils with a sandy or rocky texture, although they’ll grow in almost any soil type. They tolerate exposure to salt and grow in coastal conditions. Plant rooted cuttings in spring after the possibility of frost has passed. Space the cuttings 6 to 24 inches (15 to 60 cm) apart for trailing species, using closer spacings for quicker coverage. Dig a hole just a little larger than the roots at the cutting’s base. Put the roots in the hole, cover them with soil and tamp the soil firmly in place. For erect or mounding species, space them according to the mature dimensions for the particular species.
Water the plants immediately after planting, but then let the top inch of soil dry before watering again. Water the plants in this manner through the first spring and summer they are in place. They are drought-tolerant once established, when they will need watering only during extended dry periods.
Lampranthus need full sun to keep the growth from becoming leggy and for best flowering. They don’t need fertilizing, as that causes overgrowth of softer, weaker branches. After plants flower, prune off the old flowers and any developing fruits. Lampranthus are short-lived perennials and may need replacement after several years.
For container Lampranthus, use a cactus and succulent potting mix. Containers need watering throughout the year whenever the top layer of soil dries out. Plants can grow almost year-round in mild climates. Prune as needed any time of year to keep the plant to size. Bring containers indoors before the first frost is predicted.
Propagation
The propagation is by seed or cuttings. Seeds need warmth to germinate, 60°F (16°C) or more is suggested. Cuttings should be taken in summer. Six inch (15 cm) shoot stripped of their bottom leaves and planted in moist sand should rapidly root.
The genus name “Lampranthus” means “shining-flowers” in Latin, and the species of this genus have large, extremely bright flowers, of a range of colors (sometimes even bi-colored), that usually appear in summer, and frequently cover the plants entirely. The species of this genus typically have long, smooth, elongated, succulent leaves. These can be triangular or cylindrical, and appear in opposite pairs on the shrubs’ branches.
The spectacular flowers need full sun to open. As most mesemb, they are followed by woody capsules that open when wet, to insure propagation of the seeds at the best possible time.
Growing Conditions and General Care
Lampranthus are generally hardy in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 8 through 11, but this varies depending on the species.
Lampranthus thrive in well-drained, poor soils and are suitable for soils with a sandy or rocky texture, although they’ll grow in almost any soil type. They tolerate exposure to salt and grow in coastal conditions. Plant rooted cuttings in spring after the possibility of frost has passed. Space the cuttings 6 to 24 inches (15 to 60 cm) apart for trailing species, using closer spacings for quicker coverage. Dig a hole just a little larger than the roots at the cutting’s base. Put the roots in the hole, cover them with soil and tamp the soil firmly in place. For erect or mounding species, space them according to the mature dimensions for the particular species.
Water the plants immediately after planting, but then let the top inch of soil dry before watering again. Water the plants in this manner through the first spring and summer they are in place. They are drought-tolerant once established, when they will need watering only during extended dry periods.
Lampranthus need full sun to keep the growth from becoming leggy and for best flowering. They don’t need fertilizing, as that causes overgrowth of softer, weaker branches. After plants flower, prune off the old flowers and any developing fruits. Lampranthus are short-lived perennials and may need replacement after several years.
For container Lampranthus, use a cactus and succulent potting mix. Containers need watering throughout the year whenever the top layer of soil dries out. Plants can grow almost year-round in mild climates. Prune as needed any time of year to keep the plant to size. Bring containers indoors before the first frost is predicted.
Propagation
The propagation is by seed or cuttings. Seeds need warmth to germinate, 60°F (16°C) or more is suggested. Cuttings should be taken in summer. Six inch (15 cm) shoot stripped of their bottom leaves and planted in moist sand should rapidly root.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月18日
Echeveria elegans, also known as Mexican Snowball is a dense, blue-gray succulent species from Mexico that mounds or spreads slowly in tight colonies. Edges of leaves are slightly pink, producing equally pretty small pink flowers with a yellow tinge. Very handsome and uniform in the garden.
Mexican Snowball is aptly named for two reasons: the succulent rosettes are an icy blue color and this species is the hardiest of the Echeveria, a genus of succulents with their center of diversity in Mexico.
The low-growing clusters are very suitable to fill rock crevices and are occasionally used to cover the roof tiles of a house‐top. A layer of rosettes stapled to the roof overhang is used to hold an inch of peaty soil to the roof. It is also used to form silvery blue small borders and are believed to keep away evil spirits.
Growing Conditions
Light: Grow Echeveria elegans in full sun to light shade.
Water: Water moderately when in growth; not at all when dormant.
Temperature: More cold hardy than many other Echeverias, this one makes an excellent rock garden or container plant that needs occasional winter protection below 25°F (-4°C).
Soil: Grow in well-drained soil.
Fertilizer: Apply a balanced liquid fertilizer 2 or 3 times in the growing season.
Grower’s Tips
Mexican Snowball is certainly one of the most versatile neat, low-growing ground cover succulents. It is easy to care for and is a good starting point for beginning gardeners. It is considered to be drought tolerant but it does best with occasional watering in a well drained soil. This is typical of many Echeveria. They can be planted in full sun in coastal areas and they like some light shade when planted inland. Elsewhere grow as a houseplant in winter in a cool, bright window and keep dry until spring.
Propagation
Propagate by seed sown as soon as ripe or by root, stem or leaf cuttings in spring.
Mexican Snowball is aptly named for two reasons: the succulent rosettes are an icy blue color and this species is the hardiest of the Echeveria, a genus of succulents with their center of diversity in Mexico.
The low-growing clusters are very suitable to fill rock crevices and are occasionally used to cover the roof tiles of a house‐top. A layer of rosettes stapled to the roof overhang is used to hold an inch of peaty soil to the roof. It is also used to form silvery blue small borders and are believed to keep away evil spirits.
Growing Conditions
Light: Grow Echeveria elegans in full sun to light shade.
Water: Water moderately when in growth; not at all when dormant.
Temperature: More cold hardy than many other Echeverias, this one makes an excellent rock garden or container plant that needs occasional winter protection below 25°F (-4°C).
Soil: Grow in well-drained soil.
Fertilizer: Apply a balanced liquid fertilizer 2 or 3 times in the growing season.
Grower’s Tips
Mexican Snowball is certainly one of the most versatile neat, low-growing ground cover succulents. It is easy to care for and is a good starting point for beginning gardeners. It is considered to be drought tolerant but it does best with occasional watering in a well drained soil. This is typical of many Echeveria. They can be planted in full sun in coastal areas and they like some light shade when planted inland. Elsewhere grow as a houseplant in winter in a cool, bright window and keep dry until spring.
Propagation
Propagate by seed sown as soon as ripe or by root, stem or leaf cuttings in spring.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月18日
Calandrinia is a plant genus that contains many species of purslane, including the redmaids. The genus was named for Jean Louis Calandrini, an 18th-century Swiss botanist. It includes around 150 species of annual herbs which bear colorful flowers in shades of red to purple and white. Plants of this genus are native to Australia, Chile, and western North America.
Calandrinia are half hardy perennials and annuals. As the perennials have a short life span they are usually grown as half hardy annuals in the garden. They are low growing, reaching heights of about 6 to 18 inches (15 to 45 cm) and bloom with hundreds of bright pink and purple flowers from middle to late summer. Names for Calandrinia include Rock Purslane, Parakeelya and Redmaids. They are ideal, ground cover and edging plants, they can also be used in rockeries. Plants are able to grow in very hot conditions.
Growing Conditions and General Care
Calandrinia plants are very easy to care for as they can tolerate prolonged dry periods. They do not like to much water, especially in the winter. Plants are able to grow as a short lived perennial in warm regions but should be grown as annuals elsewhere. Propagate by taking cuttings or allow plants to self seed in situ.
If you plan to grow outdoors from seed then Calandrinia species should be sown at a depth of 0.1 inch (3 mm) after the last frost of spring. If you prefer to start off Calandrinia as seeds indoors then they should be started off about eight weeks before they are due to be put out.
They should be grown at a temperature of 55 to 59°F (13 to 15°C), and take from one to two weeks to germinate. The seedlings of Calandrinia should be planted out with a spacing of about 8 inches (20 cm) following the last possible frost of spring into an area that receives plenty of sun, and into a gritty or sandy soil.
Calandrinia are half hardy perennials and annuals. As the perennials have a short life span they are usually grown as half hardy annuals in the garden. They are low growing, reaching heights of about 6 to 18 inches (15 to 45 cm) and bloom with hundreds of bright pink and purple flowers from middle to late summer. Names for Calandrinia include Rock Purslane, Parakeelya and Redmaids. They are ideal, ground cover and edging plants, they can also be used in rockeries. Plants are able to grow in very hot conditions.
Growing Conditions and General Care
Calandrinia plants are very easy to care for as they can tolerate prolonged dry periods. They do not like to much water, especially in the winter. Plants are able to grow as a short lived perennial in warm regions but should be grown as annuals elsewhere. Propagate by taking cuttings or allow plants to self seed in situ.
If you plan to grow outdoors from seed then Calandrinia species should be sown at a depth of 0.1 inch (3 mm) after the last frost of spring. If you prefer to start off Calandrinia as seeds indoors then they should be started off about eight weeks before they are due to be put out.
They should be grown at a temperature of 55 to 59°F (13 to 15°C), and take from one to two weeks to germinate. The seedlings of Calandrinia should be planted out with a spacing of about 8 inches (20 cm) following the last possible frost of spring into an area that receives plenty of sun, and into a gritty or sandy soil.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月17日
Succulents may have color in their outer flesh. Some varieties grow flowers that bloom separately from the plump, juicy “leaves”. We’ll talk about those later in the article. Below, you can read about succulents that have colorful foliage.
Red Pencil Plant (Euphorbia tirucalli ‘Rosea’): This plant has long, finger-like branches and resembles undersea coral. It can look as though its appendages are on fire as they transform from green to magenta to yellow. The height of this plant creates interest in a container garden. It grows upward instead of branching out horizontally, which can look impressive in a tight space.
Golden Toothed Aloe (Aloe nobilis): You might be familiar with the green Aloe plant. This fiery variety has dark green leaves with sharp white teeth on the edges. The leaves turn burnt orange and red under bright sunlight. In the summer, reddish-orange flowers extend on long stems. Hummingbirds love these vibrant blooms.
Royanum Hens and Chicks (Sempervivum tectorum ‘Royanum’): This plant fills up as it grows offsets in the spring. It propagates itself and looks great in bunches. It forms a mat in your container or garden. The leaves are lime green, but the tips of this variety vary from dark burgundy to chocolate. This plant sends up star-shaped flowers. After it blooms, it dies. However, the offsets carry on the life cycle.
Paddle Plant (Kalanchoe luciae) The nicknames for this succulent are as colorful as its leaves. It has been referred to as flipping flapjacks and desert cabbage. The leaves are huge, round and smooth. They grow red in the sun and become more vibrant as winter comes.
Morning Light Echeveria (Echeveria ‘Morning Light’): This succulent looks like a lotus blossom. However, the leaves, not the flowers, make up the lovely pattern with their delicate pastels. The hue is subtle. It changes from light bluish-violet toward the core to pretty pink at the tips of the leaves. This one is easy to grow. It likes indirect light. Unlike some other succulents, this plant does require nutrient-rich soil.
Red Pencil Plant (Euphorbia tirucalli ‘Rosea’): This plant has long, finger-like branches and resembles undersea coral. It can look as though its appendages are on fire as they transform from green to magenta to yellow. The height of this plant creates interest in a container garden. It grows upward instead of branching out horizontally, which can look impressive in a tight space.
Golden Toothed Aloe (Aloe nobilis): You might be familiar with the green Aloe plant. This fiery variety has dark green leaves with sharp white teeth on the edges. The leaves turn burnt orange and red under bright sunlight. In the summer, reddish-orange flowers extend on long stems. Hummingbirds love these vibrant blooms.
Royanum Hens and Chicks (Sempervivum tectorum ‘Royanum’): This plant fills up as it grows offsets in the spring. It propagates itself and looks great in bunches. It forms a mat in your container or garden. The leaves are lime green, but the tips of this variety vary from dark burgundy to chocolate. This plant sends up star-shaped flowers. After it blooms, it dies. However, the offsets carry on the life cycle.
Paddle Plant (Kalanchoe luciae) The nicknames for this succulent are as colorful as its leaves. It has been referred to as flipping flapjacks and desert cabbage. The leaves are huge, round and smooth. They grow red in the sun and become more vibrant as winter comes.
Morning Light Echeveria (Echeveria ‘Morning Light’): This succulent looks like a lotus blossom. However, the leaves, not the flowers, make up the lovely pattern with their delicate pastels. The hue is subtle. It changes from light bluish-violet toward the core to pretty pink at the tips of the leaves. This one is easy to grow. It likes indirect light. Unlike some other succulents, this plant does require nutrient-rich soil.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月17日
Gray mold of strawberries is caused by a fungus, Botrytis cinerea, which infects both the flowers and fruits. Because of this, Botrytis can greatly reduce fruit yields and is considered one of the most damaging diseases of strawberry. Botrytis is most prevalent during prolonged cool, wet weather during bloom and near harvest.
Symptoms and Diagnosis
Blossoms commonly turn brown and die. A soft, light brown rot may appear on any part of the berry, but generally occurs first in the area of the cap, destroying the berry within 48 hours. The infected fruit spot is at first a light brown color and somewhat soft in texture. As the entire berry becomes infected, the rotted area becomes firm and turns a darker brown color. Fruits soon "mummify" and, like the blossoms, become covered with a gray, dusty powder which are the spores of the Botrytis fungus. Berries resting on damp soil or touching infected plant parts are most commonly infected.
Life Cycle
Botrytis fungi overwinter as dark-colored, resting bodies (sclerotia) on dead tissue. In the spring during cool humid weather, spores form and spread by wind or water to wounded or extremely soft plant tissues. Infection can also occur from growth of fungal mycelium from previously infected plant parts. The fungus can survive on decaying vegetation so it can infect healthy plants throughout the growing season.
Integrated Pest Management Strategies
1. Remove infected plant parts. Collecting and removing infected plant parts can slow the spread of the disease. This should be done frequently especially during fruit bearing time.
2. Improve air circulation around the plants. Space plants widely and prune leaves so that adequate air flow may speed drying of the vegetation. Work with plants when they are dry.
3. Avoid spring applications of nitrogen fertilizer. High nitrogen levels promote excessive leaf growth and available surfaces for infection.
4. Harvest regularly. Remove and dispose of rotten or severely damaged fruit throughout the season.
5. Move plants to a better location.Select sites for planting that have good air circulation, are not shaded, and not subject to frost injury.
6. Use fungicide sprays, if necessary. Apply a fungicide at 5–10% bloom and at full bloom. Fungicides may be reapplied every 7–10 days during wet seasons. Pesticides registered for use include captan, chlorothalonil (Daconil), copper, iprodione (Chipco), mancozeb, sulfur, thiram, and ziram.
Symptoms and Diagnosis
Blossoms commonly turn brown and die. A soft, light brown rot may appear on any part of the berry, but generally occurs first in the area of the cap, destroying the berry within 48 hours. The infected fruit spot is at first a light brown color and somewhat soft in texture. As the entire berry becomes infected, the rotted area becomes firm and turns a darker brown color. Fruits soon "mummify" and, like the blossoms, become covered with a gray, dusty powder which are the spores of the Botrytis fungus. Berries resting on damp soil or touching infected plant parts are most commonly infected.
Life Cycle
Botrytis fungi overwinter as dark-colored, resting bodies (sclerotia) on dead tissue. In the spring during cool humid weather, spores form and spread by wind or water to wounded or extremely soft plant tissues. Infection can also occur from growth of fungal mycelium from previously infected plant parts. The fungus can survive on decaying vegetation so it can infect healthy plants throughout the growing season.
Integrated Pest Management Strategies
1. Remove infected plant parts. Collecting and removing infected plant parts can slow the spread of the disease. This should be done frequently especially during fruit bearing time.
2. Improve air circulation around the plants. Space plants widely and prune leaves so that adequate air flow may speed drying of the vegetation. Work with plants when they are dry.
3. Avoid spring applications of nitrogen fertilizer. High nitrogen levels promote excessive leaf growth and available surfaces for infection.
4. Harvest regularly. Remove and dispose of rotten or severely damaged fruit throughout the season.
5. Move plants to a better location.Select sites for planting that have good air circulation, are not shaded, and not subject to frost injury.
6. Use fungicide sprays, if necessary. Apply a fungicide at 5–10% bloom and at full bloom. Fungicides may be reapplied every 7–10 days during wet seasons. Pesticides registered for use include captan, chlorothalonil (Daconil), copper, iprodione (Chipco), mancozeb, sulfur, thiram, and ziram.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月16日
Close-up of spots caused by Botrytis blight on Chinese dogwood (Cornus kousa)
Botrytis blight, also know as gray mold, is a fungal disease caused by several species in the genus Botrytis. It affects the buds, flowers, leaves, and bulbs of many plants including: African violet, begonia, chrysanthemum, cyclamen, dahlia, geranium, lily, peony, rose, and tulip. The extent and severity depends on weather conditions and cultural practices. This disease is the primary cause of decay in cut flowers.
Symptoms and Diagnosis
Botrytis blight causes buds and flowers to develop abnormally and turn brown. Flowers may have irregular flecks and brown spots; older flowers tend to rot quickly. Soft, brown spots appear on leaves, stem, and flowers following a cool damp period. Affected parts may be covered with a gray mold following damp, cool weather.
Life Cycle
Botrytis fungi overwinter as sclerotia on dead plant debris in the garden. In the spring, spores form and spread by wind or splashing water to infect dying, wounded, or extremely soft plant tissues. Fungal mycelial strands (web blight) from previously infected plant parts can grow onto healthy plant parts and infect them. The fungus is capable of invading tissue during all periods of the growing season and multiplies rapidly in declining foliage, hence, the need for good sanitation.
Integrated Pest Management Strategies
1. Practice good sanitation. Remove and destroy all infected plant parts as soon as they are observed.
2. Avoid overcrowding. Give adequate space between plants to allow for good air circulation. The fungus thrives in areas that are cool and moist and where plants are overcrowded.
3. Do not overfeed. Avoid fertilizing with excessive amounts of nitrogen. This can cause tender growth that is very susceptible to the fungus. Get a soil test to guide fertilizer practices.
4. Avoid overhead watering. Water on foliage and flowers from overhead irrigation, especially on cool, cloudy days, promotes the disease. Try to keep buds and flowers dry. Water early in the day so the plants have enough time to dry off completely.
5. Use fungicides. Depending upon the susceptibility of the plant to this disease, spray every 10 days with a fungicide. Pesticides registered for use include copper, captan, chlorothalonil (Daconil), mancozeb, maneb, sulfur, and thiophanate methyl (Cleary 3336). Fungicides must be applied in advance of the disease as a protectant.
Botrytis blight, also know as gray mold, is a fungal disease caused by several species in the genus Botrytis. It affects the buds, flowers, leaves, and bulbs of many plants including: African violet, begonia, chrysanthemum, cyclamen, dahlia, geranium, lily, peony, rose, and tulip. The extent and severity depends on weather conditions and cultural practices. This disease is the primary cause of decay in cut flowers.
Symptoms and Diagnosis
Botrytis blight causes buds and flowers to develop abnormally and turn brown. Flowers may have irregular flecks and brown spots; older flowers tend to rot quickly. Soft, brown spots appear on leaves, stem, and flowers following a cool damp period. Affected parts may be covered with a gray mold following damp, cool weather.
Life Cycle
Botrytis fungi overwinter as sclerotia on dead plant debris in the garden. In the spring, spores form and spread by wind or splashing water to infect dying, wounded, or extremely soft plant tissues. Fungal mycelial strands (web blight) from previously infected plant parts can grow onto healthy plant parts and infect them. The fungus is capable of invading tissue during all periods of the growing season and multiplies rapidly in declining foliage, hence, the need for good sanitation.
Integrated Pest Management Strategies
1. Practice good sanitation. Remove and destroy all infected plant parts as soon as they are observed.
2. Avoid overcrowding. Give adequate space between plants to allow for good air circulation. The fungus thrives in areas that are cool and moist and where plants are overcrowded.
3. Do not overfeed. Avoid fertilizing with excessive amounts of nitrogen. This can cause tender growth that is very susceptible to the fungus. Get a soil test to guide fertilizer practices.
4. Avoid overhead watering. Water on foliage and flowers from overhead irrigation, especially on cool, cloudy days, promotes the disease. Try to keep buds and flowers dry. Water early in the day so the plants have enough time to dry off completely.
5. Use fungicides. Depending upon the susceptibility of the plant to this disease, spray every 10 days with a fungicide. Pesticides registered for use include copper, captan, chlorothalonil (Daconil), mancozeb, maneb, sulfur, and thiophanate methyl (Cleary 3336). Fungicides must be applied in advance of the disease as a protectant.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月16日
Distorted flowers on purple coneflower (Echinacea purpurea) caused by aster yellows
Aster yellows is a viral-like disease caused by a phytoplasma (formerly called a mycoplasma-like organism). Insects that suck the sap of plants, especially the aster leafhopper, vector the disease. Aster leafhoppers are insects that annually migrate northward from their winter home in areas along the Gulf of Mexico. Aster yellows is a disease that affects over 300 species of plants, including ornamentals such as aster, coneflower, zinnia, marigold, chrysanthemum, petunia, and snapdragon. Edibles affected include lettuce, carrot, tomato, and celery. Grasses and grains also are hosts. Weeds that may harbor the disease include plantain, dandelion, and other broad-leafed weeds.
Aster yellows is primarily transmitted by leafhoppers. When a leafhopper feeds on a plant infected with aster yellows it becomes "infected" with the phytoplasma and remains infected throughout its life. The phytoplasma cells multiply and cause infection of the insect’s salivary glands within one to three weeks. When the infected insects feed on healthy plants, they inject the phytoplasma cells into the plant phloem. Susceptible plants will be symptomatic in 10 to 40 days.
The spread of aster yellows is worse in cool, wet summers. Hot dry weather is not favorable for either the phytoplasma or the leafhopper. As with many disease and pest problems, diagnosis is perhaps the most important factor in controlling aster yellows.
A somewhat similar appearing problem on coneflowers is caused by an eriophyid mite. Experts are still sorting this problem out but the lower pictures on this page may be caused by this yet unnamed eriophyid mite. At present the common name used for this disorder is coneflower rosette mite. It may be a controllable problem through sanitation practices (disposal of all affected flowers as they appear and all foliage in the fall) unlike aster yellows for which there is no cure other than to destroy infected plants.
Symptoms and Diagnosis
Chlorosis, yellowing of the leaves while the veins remain green, is a major symptom of aster yellows. Growth slows down and leaves may be smaller and more narrow than usual. Foliage is sometimes curled. Flowers may be deformed and exhibit bizarre tufts of deformed leaves inside the flower or in place of the flower. Flowers may not produce seeds. The symptoms of the disease will often differ depending upon what species is infected. For instance, carrot roots may be bitter and hairy while lettuce may show pink or tan spots and have twisted inner leaves.
Integrated Pest Management Strategies
1. Remove diseased plants. Once a plant is infected with aster yellows, it is a lost cause since the disease is incurable. Early diagnosis and prompt removal of infected plants may help reduce the spread of the disease. Although the disease itself is not fatal to the plant, its presence makes it impossible for a plant to fulfill its intended role in the garden.
2. Plant less susceptible plant species. Controlling aster yellows is difficult. As long as infected leafhoppers are around, they can infect plants. A practical way to avoid having problems with this disease is to grow plants that are not as susceptible to aster yellows. Verbena, salvia, nicotiana, geranium, cockscomb, and impatiens are among the least susceptible plants.
3. Control insects. Vegetable growers may protect susceptible crops by using the mesh fabrics that keep leafhoppers and other insects away from the plants. Some growers put strips of aluminum foil between rows because bright reflections of sunlight confuse the leafhoppers.
4. Control weeds. Remove weeds in your lawn, garden, and surrounding areas, including plantain and dandelion that may harbor the disease.
Aster yellows is a viral-like disease caused by a phytoplasma (formerly called a mycoplasma-like organism). Insects that suck the sap of plants, especially the aster leafhopper, vector the disease. Aster leafhoppers are insects that annually migrate northward from their winter home in areas along the Gulf of Mexico. Aster yellows is a disease that affects over 300 species of plants, including ornamentals such as aster, coneflower, zinnia, marigold, chrysanthemum, petunia, and snapdragon. Edibles affected include lettuce, carrot, tomato, and celery. Grasses and grains also are hosts. Weeds that may harbor the disease include plantain, dandelion, and other broad-leafed weeds.
Aster yellows is primarily transmitted by leafhoppers. When a leafhopper feeds on a plant infected with aster yellows it becomes "infected" with the phytoplasma and remains infected throughout its life. The phytoplasma cells multiply and cause infection of the insect’s salivary glands within one to three weeks. When the infected insects feed on healthy plants, they inject the phytoplasma cells into the plant phloem. Susceptible plants will be symptomatic in 10 to 40 days.
The spread of aster yellows is worse in cool, wet summers. Hot dry weather is not favorable for either the phytoplasma or the leafhopper. As with many disease and pest problems, diagnosis is perhaps the most important factor in controlling aster yellows.
A somewhat similar appearing problem on coneflowers is caused by an eriophyid mite. Experts are still sorting this problem out but the lower pictures on this page may be caused by this yet unnamed eriophyid mite. At present the common name used for this disorder is coneflower rosette mite. It may be a controllable problem through sanitation practices (disposal of all affected flowers as they appear and all foliage in the fall) unlike aster yellows for which there is no cure other than to destroy infected plants.
Symptoms and Diagnosis
Chlorosis, yellowing of the leaves while the veins remain green, is a major symptom of aster yellows. Growth slows down and leaves may be smaller and more narrow than usual. Foliage is sometimes curled. Flowers may be deformed and exhibit bizarre tufts of deformed leaves inside the flower or in place of the flower. Flowers may not produce seeds. The symptoms of the disease will often differ depending upon what species is infected. For instance, carrot roots may be bitter and hairy while lettuce may show pink or tan spots and have twisted inner leaves.
Integrated Pest Management Strategies
1. Remove diseased plants. Once a plant is infected with aster yellows, it is a lost cause since the disease is incurable. Early diagnosis and prompt removal of infected plants may help reduce the spread of the disease. Although the disease itself is not fatal to the plant, its presence makes it impossible for a plant to fulfill its intended role in the garden.
2. Plant less susceptible plant species. Controlling aster yellows is difficult. As long as infected leafhoppers are around, they can infect plants. A practical way to avoid having problems with this disease is to grow plants that are not as susceptible to aster yellows. Verbena, salvia, nicotiana, geranium, cockscomb, and impatiens are among the least susceptible plants.
3. Control insects. Vegetable growers may protect susceptible crops by using the mesh fabrics that keep leafhoppers and other insects away from the plants. Some growers put strips of aluminum foil between rows because bright reflections of sunlight confuse the leafhoppers.
4. Control weeds. Remove weeds in your lawn, garden, and surrounding areas, including plantain and dandelion that may harbor the disease.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月15日
Wilting plant leaves, sagging stems, and aborting flowers and fruits. Dry soil, especially where new plants have not had a chance to put down deep roots. Dry compost in pots and hanging baskets, and pots blowing over.
Plants affected
All plants are affected.
About Wilting through lack of water
Plants have a vascular system which enables water and nutrients to be taken from the environment through a complex root system.
The continual flow of water and nutrients ensures that the vascular system remains firm, and that the plant continues to grow in a healthy way.
Lack of water results in a loss of firmness which causes the symptoms of wilting.
Plants respond to lack of water by closing down areas of the vascular system, which consequently results in leaf, flower and fruit loss.
Plants can usually recover from short periods of lack of water, but sustained periods of drought often result in death.
Treatment
Chemical
Products containing the following chemical ingredients are all effective on Wilting through lack of water
There is no chemical control available for this problem.
Note: It is important to read manufacturer's instructions for use and the associated safety data information before applying chemical treatments.
Organic
Water wilted plants as soon as possible.
Plunge pots with very wilted plants into a bucket of water for an hour or so.
After plunging or watering, place pots with wilted plants in the shade to recover, and consider moving them to a shady spot permanently.
Move wilted plants out of windy spots, and avoid putting them back in the same place.
If the problem is affecting plants in the greenhouse, after watering them, damp down the floor with a hose or watering can.
Prevention
Regularly monitor plants for wilting symptoms.
Design a watering schedule for plants based on their individual needs. As a general guide, pots need watering once a day, hanging baskets twice a day, new plants in the border need careful monitoring in their first year and will probably need watering two or three times a week. Established border plants will have deeper roots and will benefit most from one long drink each week rather than a daily dose.
For potted and hanging basket plants, water-retaining gel granules can be used in the compost.
The base of the pot or basket can also be lined with a plastic bag to help retain water. If lining a pot, make a few small holes in the bag with a kitchen fork so the compost does not get waterlogged.
Avoid planting delicate plants in locations of intense sunlight, or strong winds.
During summer use shading to protect greenhouse crops.
Incorporating mulch and organic material into the soil improves its water retention.
Plants affected
All plants are affected.
About Wilting through lack of water
Plants have a vascular system which enables water and nutrients to be taken from the environment through a complex root system.
The continual flow of water and nutrients ensures that the vascular system remains firm, and that the plant continues to grow in a healthy way.
Lack of water results in a loss of firmness which causes the symptoms of wilting.
Plants respond to lack of water by closing down areas of the vascular system, which consequently results in leaf, flower and fruit loss.
Plants can usually recover from short periods of lack of water, but sustained periods of drought often result in death.
Treatment
Chemical
Products containing the following chemical ingredients are all effective on Wilting through lack of water
There is no chemical control available for this problem.
Note: It is important to read manufacturer's instructions for use and the associated safety data information before applying chemical treatments.
Organic
Water wilted plants as soon as possible.
Plunge pots with very wilted plants into a bucket of water for an hour or so.
After plunging or watering, place pots with wilted plants in the shade to recover, and consider moving them to a shady spot permanently.
Move wilted plants out of windy spots, and avoid putting them back in the same place.
If the problem is affecting plants in the greenhouse, after watering them, damp down the floor with a hose or watering can.
Prevention
Regularly monitor plants for wilting symptoms.
Design a watering schedule for plants based on their individual needs. As a general guide, pots need watering once a day, hanging baskets twice a day, new plants in the border need careful monitoring in their first year and will probably need watering two or three times a week. Established border plants will have deeper roots and will benefit most from one long drink each week rather than a daily dose.
For potted and hanging basket plants, water-retaining gel granules can be used in the compost.
The base of the pot or basket can also be lined with a plastic bag to help retain water. If lining a pot, make a few small holes in the bag with a kitchen fork so the compost does not get waterlogged.
Avoid planting delicate plants in locations of intense sunlight, or strong winds.
During summer use shading to protect greenhouse crops.
Incorporating mulch and organic material into the soil improves its water retention.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月15日
Viruses affect almost all types of plant from time to time and the symptoms are varied. Leaves may be yellowed or mottled. Spots, mosaics and other marks may also appear. Leaves can become deformed and twisted. Flowers may become streaked or develop a green colour.
Plants affected
Almost all plants can be affected by viruses and virus-like organisms with the notable exception of conifers.
About
Viruses are the simplest form of microscopic life. In fact some experts do not consider them true forms of life at all.
They cannot metabolise themselves, requiring a host to carry out any of their functions.
They can only reproduce inside a plant or animal host.
Viruses are usually carried from plant to plant by animals known as vectors. In plants, aphids are one of the most common vectors.
The same virus can cause very different symptoms in different plants.
Treatment
Prevention is the best place to start when dealing with viruses. Try to use certified virus-free seed potatoes and fruit trees.
Any plants showing signs of virus should be removed to prevent spread onto other plants.
Control of the organisms which transmit the virus is important to prevent its spread. Aphid control is particularly important.
Regular weeding will help by reducing other potential host plants in the area. Where there are weeds nearby which are in the same family as the plants at risk, this is especially important.
Keep the garden tidy and remove dead or dying plants promptly.
Plants affected
Almost all plants can be affected by viruses and virus-like organisms with the notable exception of conifers.
About
Viruses are the simplest form of microscopic life. In fact some experts do not consider them true forms of life at all.
They cannot metabolise themselves, requiring a host to carry out any of their functions.
They can only reproduce inside a plant or animal host.
Viruses are usually carried from plant to plant by animals known as vectors. In plants, aphids are one of the most common vectors.
The same virus can cause very different symptoms in different plants.
Treatment
Prevention is the best place to start when dealing with viruses. Try to use certified virus-free seed potatoes and fruit trees.
Any plants showing signs of virus should be removed to prevent spread onto other plants.
Control of the organisms which transmit the virus is important to prevent its spread. Aphid control is particularly important.
Regular weeding will help by reducing other potential host plants in the area. Where there are weeds nearby which are in the same family as the plants at risk, this is especially important.
Keep the garden tidy and remove dead or dying plants promptly.
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0
文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月15日
Small silver patches and black dots on the leaves. Feeding thrips can also turn petals on flowers brown. New growth can be distorted, browning and curled.
Plants affected
Virtually all garden plants can be affected, from ornamental species, to fruit, vegetable, and cereal crops. Flowers and leaves of plants are most affected.
About Thrips
Thrips are sometimes known as thunderflies or thunderbugs.
There are over 3000 recorded species worldwide, with over 150 in the UK.
They are typically small, slender, dark-coloured insects about 2mm long or less and usually have two pairs of feather-like wings.
Thrips rasp through upper leaf cells to feed on plant sap, causing a silvering appearance.
Thrip droppings are minute black specks on the leaves.
Thrips have six lifecycle stages including egg, larvae, pupa and adult.
Larvae and pupae can be a lighter colour than adults.
Females have a serrated tube for laying eggs into plant tissue.
They are predominantly a summer pest, favouring warm temperatures and dry conditions.
Thundery conditions trigger swarming.
Some species can transmit viruses such as tomato spotted wilt virus.
Treatment
Chemical
Products containing the following chemical ingredients are all effective on Thrips
Pyrethrins
Methiocarb
Note: It is important to read manufacturer's instructions for use and the associated safety data information before applying chemical treatments.
Organic
Release the predatory mite Amblyseius cucumeris, and predatory bug Orius laevigatus.
Spray organic plant oils approved for use on plants.
Remove and destroy infested leaves, particularly silvery areas where eggs are present.
Prevention
Thoroughly clean greenhouses at the end of the season to remove any over-wintering thrips.
Use sticky traps to monitor the first appearance of thrips. Blue coloured traps are thought to be more effective than other colours.
Netting and fleeces can be used as a barrier between plants.
Plants affected
Virtually all garden plants can be affected, from ornamental species, to fruit, vegetable, and cereal crops. Flowers and leaves of plants are most affected.
About Thrips
Thrips are sometimes known as thunderflies or thunderbugs.
There are over 3000 recorded species worldwide, with over 150 in the UK.
They are typically small, slender, dark-coloured insects about 2mm long or less and usually have two pairs of feather-like wings.
Thrips rasp through upper leaf cells to feed on plant sap, causing a silvering appearance.
Thrip droppings are minute black specks on the leaves.
Thrips have six lifecycle stages including egg, larvae, pupa and adult.
Larvae and pupae can be a lighter colour than adults.
Females have a serrated tube for laying eggs into plant tissue.
They are predominantly a summer pest, favouring warm temperatures and dry conditions.
Thundery conditions trigger swarming.
Some species can transmit viruses such as tomato spotted wilt virus.
Treatment
Chemical
Products containing the following chemical ingredients are all effective on Thrips
Pyrethrins
Methiocarb
Note: It is important to read manufacturer's instructions for use and the associated safety data information before applying chemical treatments.
Organic
Release the predatory mite Amblyseius cucumeris, and predatory bug Orius laevigatus.
Spray organic plant oils approved for use on plants.
Remove and destroy infested leaves, particularly silvery areas where eggs are present.
Prevention
Thoroughly clean greenhouses at the end of the season to remove any over-wintering thrips.
Use sticky traps to monitor the first appearance of thrips. Blue coloured traps are thought to be more effective than other colours.
Netting and fleeces can be used as a barrier between plants.
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0
文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月15日
Rapid or gradual defoliation, where the lower leaves of the plant turn yellow and fall; wilting, drooping, spotted or stunted plants; or grey powdery mould round the stem, leaves or flowers. These symptoms can be indicative of other problems, but the presence of rotten roots as well would be a strong indication of water-logging.
Plants affected
Potentially all plants, but while drought damage occurs commonly in both outdoor and house-plants, over watering is relatively rare outdoors. It is probably the commonest cause of decline in house-plants, however, and much more serious than under watering.
About over watering
Plants vary hugely in the amount of water they need. It will depend very much on the type of plant, the season, the temperature and the climate.
Over watering is more damaging to the plant than under-watering. The rate of evaporation of water from the leaves, and the rate of transpiration through the stem and roots both affect the exchange of oxygen and carbon dioxide in the plant. The presence of too much water prevents the diffusion of these gases.
The commonest symptom is the yellowing of leaves.
Lack of oxygen to roots causes general stunting and encourages the development of rotting organisms.
Preventing further damage
For house plants check carefully their water requirements and water accordingly. Not many flourish when standing permanently in dishes of water.
Outdoors, check the soil condition: turning over heavy, loamy soils will aerate them and improve drainage.
Water slowly to prevent soaking some areas and leaving others dry.
Water in the morning when it is cool – during the day too much evaporation will occur and later in the evening humid conditions will cause fungal growth.
Always allow the saucers of pot plants to dry fully between waterings.
Make sure pots and plenty of drainage holes and fill bottom of pots with crocks, grit or gravel to prevent the holes becoming clogged.
Plants affected
Potentially all plants, but while drought damage occurs commonly in both outdoor and house-plants, over watering is relatively rare outdoors. It is probably the commonest cause of decline in house-plants, however, and much more serious than under watering.
About over watering
Plants vary hugely in the amount of water they need. It will depend very much on the type of plant, the season, the temperature and the climate.
Over watering is more damaging to the plant than under-watering. The rate of evaporation of water from the leaves, and the rate of transpiration through the stem and roots both affect the exchange of oxygen and carbon dioxide in the plant. The presence of too much water prevents the diffusion of these gases.
The commonest symptom is the yellowing of leaves.
Lack of oxygen to roots causes general stunting and encourages the development of rotting organisms.
Preventing further damage
For house plants check carefully their water requirements and water accordingly. Not many flourish when standing permanently in dishes of water.
Outdoors, check the soil condition: turning over heavy, loamy soils will aerate them and improve drainage.
Water slowly to prevent soaking some areas and leaving others dry.
Water in the morning when it is cool – during the day too much evaporation will occur and later in the evening humid conditions will cause fungal growth.
Always allow the saucers of pot plants to dry fully between waterings.
Make sure pots and plenty of drainage holes and fill bottom of pots with crocks, grit or gravel to prevent the holes becoming clogged.
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