文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月30日
Gazania is a genus of low-growing, trailing ground covers with daisy-like blooms that open on summer and fall days, closing at night. It only grows 0.5 to 1 foot (15 to 30 cm) tall and 1 to 2 feet (30 to 60 cm) wide, but its vivid flowers more than make up for its lack of height. Although grown as an annual in much of the country, this plant overwinters in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 8b through 11. Plant this colorful, low-growing specimen outside in containers or directly into the ground to incorporate it into your landscape.
Growing Conditions and General Care
Plant Gazanias in early spring, in full sun and well-draining soil, spacing multiple plants 12 to 18 inches (30 to 45 cm) apart to form a ground cover mat. These flowers can tolerate almost any type of soil — alkaline, acidic, loam, clay and sand — as long as they have good drainage, though they prefer good, fertile loam.
Water the Gazania, keeping it moist after planting until you see new growth. Once growing on its own, this plant is quite drought tolerant, and only requires supplemental water during droughts of three weeks or more. Water in the morning, as Gazanias can succumb to stem and root rots, powdery mildew and leaf spot that can result from staying wet for too long.
Pinch off fading flowers with your fingers to encourage a longer bloom period.
Prune annually in late winter or early spring, beginning in the second season, cutting the foliage back to 2 or 3 inches above the ground with pruning shears. This will refresh the plant and encourage new growth.
Fertilize annually soon after pruning, beginning in the second season, with a teaspoon or two of 10-10-10 granular fertilizer, scattering it evenly around the edges of the plant and watering it into the ground. Gazanias can tolerate soils with low fertility, and actually do not do well with excess fertilizer. In even moderately fertile soil they do not require this application, but it can encourage healthy early season growth.
Plant different varieties of Gazanias in a bunch for a colorful mix.
Propagation
Gazanias are particularly suited for creating a fast-spreading garden spread. They self-seed and grow very quickly. However, you can fasten the propagation process. For this, systematic division of young Gazanias is needed. Choose Gazanias that are about 10 inches (25 cm) tall. Using gardening scissors, cut through the basal stem, dividing it into two halves. Each half will now grow as an individual plant.
Growing Conditions and General Care
Plant Gazanias in early spring, in full sun and well-draining soil, spacing multiple plants 12 to 18 inches (30 to 45 cm) apart to form a ground cover mat. These flowers can tolerate almost any type of soil — alkaline, acidic, loam, clay and sand — as long as they have good drainage, though they prefer good, fertile loam.
Water the Gazania, keeping it moist after planting until you see new growth. Once growing on its own, this plant is quite drought tolerant, and only requires supplemental water during droughts of three weeks or more. Water in the morning, as Gazanias can succumb to stem and root rots, powdery mildew and leaf spot that can result from staying wet for too long.
Pinch off fading flowers with your fingers to encourage a longer bloom period.
Prune annually in late winter or early spring, beginning in the second season, cutting the foliage back to 2 or 3 inches above the ground with pruning shears. This will refresh the plant and encourage new growth.
Fertilize annually soon after pruning, beginning in the second season, with a teaspoon or two of 10-10-10 granular fertilizer, scattering it evenly around the edges of the plant and watering it into the ground. Gazanias can tolerate soils with low fertility, and actually do not do well with excess fertilizer. In even moderately fertile soil they do not require this application, but it can encourage healthy early season growth.
Plant different varieties of Gazanias in a bunch for a colorful mix.
Propagation
Gazanias are particularly suited for creating a fast-spreading garden spread. They self-seed and grow very quickly. However, you can fasten the propagation process. For this, systematic division of young Gazanias is needed. Choose Gazanias that are about 10 inches (25 cm) tall. Using gardening scissors, cut through the basal stem, dividing it into two halves. Each half will now grow as an individual plant.
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文章
Miss Chen
2017年09月29日
Blue tulips are not a natural phenomenon. To create blue tulips, white tulips may be dyed to achieve the right color. Hybrid tulip species in shades of violet and lilac may also be created to make blue blossoms. Tulip flowers. which are often associated with Holland, grow naturally in a wide variety of shades. Deep violet tulips are often commonly called blue tulips.
Features
Blue tulips, like other tulip flowers, grow in an upright, bell-like shape. Tulips grow eight to 28 inches in height, with leaves that grow in a gray-blue shade. Blue tulips are short, the flowers blue-violet or lilac in color. Many types of violet and deep purple tulips are available to gardeners. Breeder, Darwin, Parrot, Cottage, Lily-flowered and Early tulips are the most popular varieties of blue-purple tulips. Blue tulips are also called pasque flower, wild crocus, lion's beard and prairie anemone.
Origins
Tulips originate from Persia and Turkey. In Turkey, tulip flowers were used as an adornment on turbans. Because of the fashion trend, Europeans named the flowers after the Persian word for turban. Popularity for the flower spread into the Netherlands, giving cultivated varieties of the plant the nickname "Dutch tulips." Available in a wide range of colors, tulips today are a popular choice among brides, gardeners and florists.
Meaning of Flowers
The Language of Flowers was invented during the Victorian Era, when it became fashionable to exchange messages by giving flowers. Each flower has its own meaning, with different flower colors often representing new shades of meaning. Through flowers, it's possible to express love, desire, sorrow, friendship and many other emotions.
Meaning of Blue Flowers
The color blue is symbolic of tranquility, sleep and calm. Dark blue is said to stand for truth. Blue flowers often grow with shades of purple, creating indigo, violent and lilac blooms. Blue flowers were used as the main symbol of Romanticism, a school of philosophy that flourished during the latter half of the Victorian Age. The blue flower conveys love and desire.
Meaning of Blue Tulips
Blue tulips are thought to symbolize tranquility and peace because of the blue color. When given to someone else, the flowers convey a message of trust and loyalty. In general, tulips are thought to send a message of perfect love, though red tulips are most strongly associated with the emotion.
Features
Blue tulips, like other tulip flowers, grow in an upright, bell-like shape. Tulips grow eight to 28 inches in height, with leaves that grow in a gray-blue shade. Blue tulips are short, the flowers blue-violet or lilac in color. Many types of violet and deep purple tulips are available to gardeners. Breeder, Darwin, Parrot, Cottage, Lily-flowered and Early tulips are the most popular varieties of blue-purple tulips. Blue tulips are also called pasque flower, wild crocus, lion's beard and prairie anemone.
Origins
Tulips originate from Persia and Turkey. In Turkey, tulip flowers were used as an adornment on turbans. Because of the fashion trend, Europeans named the flowers after the Persian word for turban. Popularity for the flower spread into the Netherlands, giving cultivated varieties of the plant the nickname "Dutch tulips." Available in a wide range of colors, tulips today are a popular choice among brides, gardeners and florists.
Meaning of Flowers
The Language of Flowers was invented during the Victorian Era, when it became fashionable to exchange messages by giving flowers. Each flower has its own meaning, with different flower colors often representing new shades of meaning. Through flowers, it's possible to express love, desire, sorrow, friendship and many other emotions.
Meaning of Blue Flowers
The color blue is symbolic of tranquility, sleep and calm. Dark blue is said to stand for truth. Blue flowers often grow with shades of purple, creating indigo, violent and lilac blooms. Blue flowers were used as the main symbol of Romanticism, a school of philosophy that flourished during the latter half of the Victorian Age. The blue flower conveys love and desire.
Meaning of Blue Tulips
Blue tulips are thought to symbolize tranquility and peace because of the blue color. When given to someone else, the flowers convey a message of trust and loyalty. In general, tulips are thought to send a message of perfect love, though red tulips are most strongly associated with the emotion.
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文章
Miss Chen
2017年09月29日
Tulips are one of the most popular flowers around according to sunbulb.com. They are a bulbous plant, which means they have underground storage organs that allow them to survive difficult weather conditions. Florida has a favorable climate for many bulbous plants, but not necessarily tulips because they need cold weather. According to the USDA Plant Hardiness Zone Map, Florida is in Zones 8, 10 and 11. This means the average annual minimum temperature does not dip below 15 to 40 degrees Fahrenheit, depending on your location. You can still plant tulips in Florida by following some specific instructions.
Step 1
Buy the bulbs you want to plant at least eight weeks before planting. Use the USDA Climate Hardiness Zone Map to determine what zone in Florida you live. If you live in zone 8, you should plant in November to early December and if you live in zone 10, you should plant in late December to early January. If you live in zone 11, your minimum temperature is not low enough for tulips to grow well. Darwin Hybrids and Single late variety tulips work better with mild winters.
Step 2
Place the bulbs in a paper bag and put them in the refrigerator six to eight weeks before you plan to plant the bulbs. Make sure they are not near any ripening fruits which emit a gas that can destroy the flower bud.
Step 3
Prepare the soil where you will plant the tulip bulbs. Bulbs will do best in a sunny location, so try to avoid any shady spots. Till the soil and lay three to four inches of an organic material. You can use peat, compost or well-rotten manure. Make sure the soil has good drainage. If it does not, build up raised flower beds so it will drain.
Step 4
Refer to the USDA Climate Hardiness Zone map again to see when you should plant. Tulips will grow best in Northern Florida, from Pensacola to Jacksonville and south to Ocala, according to University of Florida’s Institute of Food and Agricultural Sciences.
Step 5
Dig holes with a small shovel or trowel and plant tulip bulbs five inches deep and eight inches apart. Cover them back up with the soil.
Step 6
Lay a two inch layer of mulch over the soil when you plant to prevent any weeds. If weeds do come up, pull them as soon as possible.
Step 7
Water the soil enough to keep it moderately moist until the end of the growing period. Tulips bloom sometime in the spring.
Step 1
Buy the bulbs you want to plant at least eight weeks before planting. Use the USDA Climate Hardiness Zone Map to determine what zone in Florida you live. If you live in zone 8, you should plant in November to early December and if you live in zone 10, you should plant in late December to early January. If you live in zone 11, your minimum temperature is not low enough for tulips to grow well. Darwin Hybrids and Single late variety tulips work better with mild winters.
Step 2
Place the bulbs in a paper bag and put them in the refrigerator six to eight weeks before you plan to plant the bulbs. Make sure they are not near any ripening fruits which emit a gas that can destroy the flower bud.
Step 3
Prepare the soil where you will plant the tulip bulbs. Bulbs will do best in a sunny location, so try to avoid any shady spots. Till the soil and lay three to four inches of an organic material. You can use peat, compost or well-rotten manure. Make sure the soil has good drainage. If it does not, build up raised flower beds so it will drain.
Step 4
Refer to the USDA Climate Hardiness Zone map again to see when you should plant. Tulips will grow best in Northern Florida, from Pensacola to Jacksonville and south to Ocala, according to University of Florida’s Institute of Food and Agricultural Sciences.
Step 5
Dig holes with a small shovel or trowel and plant tulip bulbs five inches deep and eight inches apart. Cover them back up with the soil.
Step 6
Lay a two inch layer of mulch over the soil when you plant to prevent any weeds. If weeds do come up, pull them as soon as possible.
Step 7
Water the soil enough to keep it moderately moist until the end of the growing period. Tulips bloom sometime in the spring.
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文章
Miss Chen
2017年09月29日
Nothing says spring quite like tulips blooming in your garden. While these pretty flowers add beautiful splashes of color to your landscaping, they can be hazardous to any dogs living in your home, especially if your pet treats your garden like a salad bar.
Tulips
Perennials that bloom in the spring, tulips spring forth from planted bulbs. With few leaves, the bloom is the main visual focus of the tulip plant. They come in a wide variety of colors, including yellow, pink, red and violet. Tulips contain compounds called tulipan A and tulipan B. These compounds are found in every part of the plant and are poisonous to animals including cats, horses and dogs.
Symptoms
If your dog eats any part of a tulip, it could experience digestive problems like vomiting and diarrhea. If these problems are serious enough, they can lead to dehydration. Tulip ingestion can also cause hypersalivation, or excessive drooling. This is messy and can also contribute to fluid loss. Eating tulips can also cause depression. Because your dog does not feel well, it might lose interest in food and interacting with you or other members of your household.
Treatment
If you dog eats part of a tulip plant, call your veterinarian. The first thing your veterinarian will probably recommend is watchful waiting. Keep an eye on your dog and make sure it can easily access the outdoors. Give it plenty of clean water to drink. Most cases of gastric upset pass in a day or two. If your dog's symptoms linger or if it loses interest in food and water, bring it to your veterinarian's office. She can help clear the toxic elements from your dog's system as well as provide supportive care like restoring fluids so your dog stays hydrated as it recovers.
Considerations
The most poisonous part of the tulip is the bulb. If your dog likes to dig in your garden, fence off the area where you plant tulip bulbs so it cannot pull them out of the soil and eat them. If you bring tulips into your home, place them on tables or shelves that are high enough to keep them out of your pet's reach. If you do need to take your dog to the veterinarian, bring along a portion of the eaten tulip. It can help her decide how to best treat your dog.
Tulips
Perennials that bloom in the spring, tulips spring forth from planted bulbs. With few leaves, the bloom is the main visual focus of the tulip plant. They come in a wide variety of colors, including yellow, pink, red and violet. Tulips contain compounds called tulipan A and tulipan B. These compounds are found in every part of the plant and are poisonous to animals including cats, horses and dogs.
Symptoms
If your dog eats any part of a tulip, it could experience digestive problems like vomiting and diarrhea. If these problems are serious enough, they can lead to dehydration. Tulip ingestion can also cause hypersalivation, or excessive drooling. This is messy and can also contribute to fluid loss. Eating tulips can also cause depression. Because your dog does not feel well, it might lose interest in food and interacting with you or other members of your household.
Treatment
If you dog eats part of a tulip plant, call your veterinarian. The first thing your veterinarian will probably recommend is watchful waiting. Keep an eye on your dog and make sure it can easily access the outdoors. Give it plenty of clean water to drink. Most cases of gastric upset pass in a day or two. If your dog's symptoms linger or if it loses interest in food and water, bring it to your veterinarian's office. She can help clear the toxic elements from your dog's system as well as provide supportive care like restoring fluids so your dog stays hydrated as it recovers.
Considerations
The most poisonous part of the tulip is the bulb. If your dog likes to dig in your garden, fence off the area where you plant tulip bulbs so it cannot pull them out of the soil and eat them. If you bring tulips into your home, place them on tables or shelves that are high enough to keep them out of your pet's reach. If you do need to take your dog to the veterinarian, bring along a portion of the eaten tulip. It can help her decide how to best treat your dog.
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super.is1
2017年09月28日
I need help identifying this succulent. I've had it for half a year and it has recently made a cluster of coral coloured bell-shaped flowers. I bought it in a set of 3 and none had tags. If you have any idea I'd love to know as I'd quite like to propagate but I don't know if pulling leaves will work :) thx
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月28日
Cousin to the banana, the Bird of Paradise Flower (Strelitzia) is one of the best known of all the tropical flowers. Who hasn’t walked into a swanky hotel or event and seen magnificent table centerpieces built about these remarkable flowers? Surprisingly, Bird of Paradise are easier to grow than many tropical plants. The plant is a vigorous, rapidly growing indoor plant. They can be moved outside in the summer, and in warmer climes, will thrive for half the year outside. They typically flower in the late winter or early spring, but under optimal conditions, will flower at various times.
Growing Conditions
Light: Bright light, even including some direct sunlight, to bloom well. However, only habituated plants can handle direct, midday summer sun.
Water: Keep soil continuously moist throughout the year. High humidity is preferred.
Temperature: Above 60ºF (15ºC) is preferred in the winter. This is not a cold-tolerant plant.
Soil: Rich, well-drained potting mix.
Fertilizer: Feed in spring with slow-release pellets or weekly during growing season with liquid fertilizer.
Repotting
These are rapid-growing plants that need to reach a certain size before they’ll bloom. Repot every spring into a larger pot and make sure to give it room to get big.
Propagation
By division of underground rhizome during repotting. Can be grown from seed, but division is so easy, why bother?
Grower’s Tips
Strelitzia is a genus of about 5 or 6 species (depending on who you listen to). Strelitzia reginae is the most well known species and is frequently grown as house plants. It is a beautiful plant and can be very successfully grown inside. The biggest drawback is typically its size (they grow up to 5 feet/1.5 m) and the fact that plants need 3 to 5 years before they will flower. They work well in massed plantings or as specimen plants, and their flowers will rise above the foliage for an impressive display. The trick to successful growth is providing lots of bright light (with some gentle direct sun), water, warmth and food.
Growing Conditions
Light: Bright light, even including some direct sunlight, to bloom well. However, only habituated plants can handle direct, midday summer sun.
Water: Keep soil continuously moist throughout the year. High humidity is preferred.
Temperature: Above 60ºF (15ºC) is preferred in the winter. This is not a cold-tolerant plant.
Soil: Rich, well-drained potting mix.
Fertilizer: Feed in spring with slow-release pellets or weekly during growing season with liquid fertilizer.
Repotting
These are rapid-growing plants that need to reach a certain size before they’ll bloom. Repot every spring into a larger pot and make sure to give it room to get big.
Propagation
By division of underground rhizome during repotting. Can be grown from seed, but division is so easy, why bother?
Grower’s Tips
Strelitzia is a genus of about 5 or 6 species (depending on who you listen to). Strelitzia reginae is the most well known species and is frequently grown as house plants. It is a beautiful plant and can be very successfully grown inside. The biggest drawback is typically its size (they grow up to 5 feet/1.5 m) and the fact that plants need 3 to 5 years before they will flower. They work well in massed plantings or as specimen plants, and their flowers will rise above the foliage for an impressive display. The trick to successful growth is providing lots of bright light (with some gentle direct sun), water, warmth and food.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月28日
Sunflowers (Helianthus annuus) are perhaps one of the easiest flowers that you can grow in the garden. They are so easy to grow that they are frequently used to introduce very young gardeners to the joys of gardening. Many gardeners fondly remember planting the black and white seeds of giant Sunflowers and watching in wonder as they grew to tower into the sky.
But just because Sunflowers are easy to grow does not mean that they should be dismissed from the grown-up garden. The variety of Sunflowers available to the home gardener is absolutely amazing and, as an added bonus, Sunflowers can help attract some local birds to your garden.
Sunflowers come in sizes that range from dwarf varieties, which can be as small as a foot and a half tall, to giant varieties, which grow to be over twelve feet tall. You can find Sunflowers in colors from very pale yellows to dark, burgundy reds and all shades of yellow, red and orange in-between.
Sunflowers also come in a variety of petal counts. While the single layer of petals is still the most common, you can find quite a few Sunflower varieties with double and teddy bear petal layers. All of these sunflower options ensure that when you add these flowers to your garden, it will be anything but blah.
Growing Conditions and General Care
If you decide to add Sunflowers to your garden, there are a few things you will want to keep in mind.
First of all, they are called sunflowers for a reason. They need sun. Make sure that the location you choose for your Sunflowers gets full sun.
Second, you do not need to worry about soil too much. They are not picky about the conditions of the soil, but they are plants. They will do better in better soil.
Third, Sunflower seed shells do contain a substance that is toxic to grass. So, you will need to either harvest the Sunflower heads before the seeds begin to fall out or you will need to plant your Sunflowers in a location where you do not mind any nearby grass being killed.
Fourth, keep in mind the height of the Sunflower variety you have chosen. A giant, twelve foot variety will end up acting very much like a small tree and may shade the surrounding flowers.
As mentioned above, Sunflowers can also help you to attract local birds to your garden. When the growing season is coming to a close, you can harvest your sunflower heads and use some of the seeds to feed the birds over the winter. You have two options when using sunflower seeds to feed the birds. The first is that you can simply leave the Sunflower heads outside for the birds. This option is the easiest but be warned that the birds will make a mess when pulling the seeds out of the Sunflower head. Your other option is to remove the seeds from the head and to put them in your bird feeder. This method is a little more work but will be neater in the long run. Also, putting the seeds in a birdfeeder will also help to keep your feathered friends safe as the birdfeeder will be up off the ground and out of reach of many of the animals that eat birds.
So, while you may have fond memories of tall yellow Sunflowers that you planted as a child, give this old garden favorite a new try and rediscover the world of sunflowers.
But just because Sunflowers are easy to grow does not mean that they should be dismissed from the grown-up garden. The variety of Sunflowers available to the home gardener is absolutely amazing and, as an added bonus, Sunflowers can help attract some local birds to your garden.
Sunflowers come in sizes that range from dwarf varieties, which can be as small as a foot and a half tall, to giant varieties, which grow to be over twelve feet tall. You can find Sunflowers in colors from very pale yellows to dark, burgundy reds and all shades of yellow, red and orange in-between.
Sunflowers also come in a variety of petal counts. While the single layer of petals is still the most common, you can find quite a few Sunflower varieties with double and teddy bear petal layers. All of these sunflower options ensure that when you add these flowers to your garden, it will be anything but blah.
Growing Conditions and General Care
If you decide to add Sunflowers to your garden, there are a few things you will want to keep in mind.
First of all, they are called sunflowers for a reason. They need sun. Make sure that the location you choose for your Sunflowers gets full sun.
Second, you do not need to worry about soil too much. They are not picky about the conditions of the soil, but they are plants. They will do better in better soil.
Third, Sunflower seed shells do contain a substance that is toxic to grass. So, you will need to either harvest the Sunflower heads before the seeds begin to fall out or you will need to plant your Sunflowers in a location where you do not mind any nearby grass being killed.
Fourth, keep in mind the height of the Sunflower variety you have chosen. A giant, twelve foot variety will end up acting very much like a small tree and may shade the surrounding flowers.
As mentioned above, Sunflowers can also help you to attract local birds to your garden. When the growing season is coming to a close, you can harvest your sunflower heads and use some of the seeds to feed the birds over the winter. You have two options when using sunflower seeds to feed the birds. The first is that you can simply leave the Sunflower heads outside for the birds. This option is the easiest but be warned that the birds will make a mess when pulling the seeds out of the Sunflower head. Your other option is to remove the seeds from the head and to put them in your bird feeder. This method is a little more work but will be neater in the long run. Also, putting the seeds in a birdfeeder will also help to keep your feathered friends safe as the birdfeeder will be up off the ground and out of reach of many of the animals that eat birds.
So, while you may have fond memories of tall yellow Sunflowers that you planted as a child, give this old garden favorite a new try and rediscover the world of sunflowers.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月28日
Borage (Borago) is a freely seeding, easy growing annual plant with vivid blue flowers and leaves with the flavor of cucumbers. It is consider an herb, but is often grown as a flower in vegetable gardens where it attracts pollinating bees and is considered a good companion plant for tomatoes, squash and strawberries. It’s even supposed to deter tomato hornworms and improve the flavor of tomatoes growing nearby.
Borage can bloom from late spring through summer. Staggering your planting times will give you a longer period of bloom and provide a longer harvest time.
Borage is actually a somewhat gangly plant, but you barely notice it because the star-shaped flowers are so vibrant. They’re a true blue, hanging in downward facing clusters. Even the fuzzy white buds are attractive. Both the flowers and the leaves are edible, with a cucumber-like flavor. Use the leaves while they are young, because as the plant matures, the stalks and leaves become covered with a prickly fuzz.
Design Suggestions
Borage is often grown in the vegetable or herb garden because it is such a bee magnet and because it is considered a good growing companion for other plants. However, it is equally beautiful in a cottage style flower garden, where it has room to self-seed. Harvesting or deadheading will keep it in bloom longer.
Growing Tips
Borage grows best if direct seeded. Barely cover the seeds with soil and keep well watered. They are tolerant of any type soil, even poor dry soil. However a sunny location with rich, well draining soil is optimal.
If you choose to start seedlings, transplant before they become pot bound. Plan to start seedlings about 3-4 weeks before the last expected frost and don’t transplant outdoors until the soil has warmed. Once seedling are about 2 to 3 inches (5 to 7.5 cm) tall, thin to approximately 12 inches (40 cm) apart.
Maintenance: Plants in poor soil will benefit from periodic feeding with any fertilizer labeled for use on edible plants. Something with a high phosphorous number (the middle number on a fertilizer package) will help keep them in flower. Plants can be pinched or pruned, to encourage branching and to keep them shorter.
Harvesting: Harvest leaves and flowers as needed. Older leaves will get prickly, making harvesting anything on the plant a bit unpleasant. However, the flowers do add a bit of flavor and a great deal of color to salads, soups, dips & spreads, open face sandwiches, beverages and ice cubes. As with all edible flowers, use sparingly until you know how they effect you. Borage is said to have a mild laxative effect.
Borage is open pollinated and it is very easy to collect and save the seed from flowers allowed to remain on the plant and turn brown. Borage self-seeds readily, if allowed to go to seed naturally. Excess plants are fairly easy to remove from the garden.
Borage can bloom from late spring through summer. Staggering your planting times will give you a longer period of bloom and provide a longer harvest time.
Borage is actually a somewhat gangly plant, but you barely notice it because the star-shaped flowers are so vibrant. They’re a true blue, hanging in downward facing clusters. Even the fuzzy white buds are attractive. Both the flowers and the leaves are edible, with a cucumber-like flavor. Use the leaves while they are young, because as the plant matures, the stalks and leaves become covered with a prickly fuzz.
Design Suggestions
Borage is often grown in the vegetable or herb garden because it is such a bee magnet and because it is considered a good growing companion for other plants. However, it is equally beautiful in a cottage style flower garden, where it has room to self-seed. Harvesting or deadheading will keep it in bloom longer.
Growing Tips
Borage grows best if direct seeded. Barely cover the seeds with soil and keep well watered. They are tolerant of any type soil, even poor dry soil. However a sunny location with rich, well draining soil is optimal.
If you choose to start seedlings, transplant before they become pot bound. Plan to start seedlings about 3-4 weeks before the last expected frost and don’t transplant outdoors until the soil has warmed. Once seedling are about 2 to 3 inches (5 to 7.5 cm) tall, thin to approximately 12 inches (40 cm) apart.
Maintenance: Plants in poor soil will benefit from periodic feeding with any fertilizer labeled for use on edible plants. Something with a high phosphorous number (the middle number on a fertilizer package) will help keep them in flower. Plants can be pinched or pruned, to encourage branching and to keep them shorter.
Harvesting: Harvest leaves and flowers as needed. Older leaves will get prickly, making harvesting anything on the plant a bit unpleasant. However, the flowers do add a bit of flavor and a great deal of color to salads, soups, dips & spreads, open face sandwiches, beverages and ice cubes. As with all edible flowers, use sparingly until you know how they effect you. Borage is said to have a mild laxative effect.
Borage is open pollinated and it is very easy to collect and save the seed from flowers allowed to remain on the plant and turn brown. Borage self-seeds readily, if allowed to go to seed naturally. Excess plants are fairly easy to remove from the garden.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月28日
The Alstroemeria is a hardy perennial plant goes by a number of names, of which the most popular are Peruvian Lily or Lily of the Incas. Peruvian Lilies are among the more exotically beautiful flowers, and make great cuttings; but they also stand alone nicely in the yard, garden or pots. Because they’re very resilient, you could have them as borders in your landscaping scheme, potted plants on the patio and indoors, or as cut flowers; all them with different colors and styles to add great color to your home and garden. As for cut flowers, a long blooming period makes them perfect for that use, and the cut flowers last for a nice period of time as well.
The flowers can be spotted or streaked with darker colors, which look extraordinary. A recent development for the Alstroemeria is the introduction of dwarf varieties, which offer more flexibility and alternatives to places you can put the plant. They especially work well for potted containers, and can be placed in smaller garden beds where bigger plants may not work as well. Some of these new dwarf varieties have long blooming seasons, making them a welcome addition for your gardening strategy.
Where to Plant
The best place to plant Peruvian Lily is where they will either receive full sun or a slightly shaded area. At least allow them to have good morning sun. Drainage is important for the survival of Peruvian Lily, so be sure it drains well. Observe how the proposed area you want to plant responds after a good rain. If it still has standing water after about 5 hours, look for another location. If you’re limited to a certain location which holds water too long, build up the soil to a higher level to improve its drainage capabilities. The plant will rot if it sits in standing water or soggy soil.
When to Plant
You can plant Alstroemeria after the last frost is over. If you have your bare root plants but the ground is still hard or too wet, place the roots in a pot until the ground is ready for them. Keep them in a cool area while you’re waiting. Don’t water them much before placing them in the soil and are still in the pots.
How to Plant
Before you grab your plant with bare hands, be aware that Peruvian Lily can be irritating to the eyes and skin. It’s best to wear gloves and remember not to rub your eyes until you’re done with the job. As for the hole size to dig, go down deep enough so when you put the bareroot in it’ll be level with the top of the bed, covered with a little soil. The hole width should be wide enough so you spread the roots out. Space the roots about a foot apart when planting. You can now fill it in, pressing down on the soil when your finished, and/or watering it to help settle the soil around the root. Assuming it’s placed in a spot with good drainage, this won’t hurt the plant. If the soil is really cool, you can wait a little while until the ground warms up, as the plants will grow much quicker for you.
After Planting Care
For the most part the care needed for Alstroemeria is in regard to watering. They do like to get a good drink, throwing off better and larger flowers in response. You only need to be sure not to water to the point of the ground becoming too wet, which would overwhelm the plant.
Warmer Zones
Peruvian Lily will grow and bloom late into the year in zones 8-10, or possibly in other zones with the right conditions. In those zones that are borderline, you can apply some mulch to protect the plants over the winter. Sometimes in zones 8-10 the plant will occasionally throw off some blooms, giving some late-season color to the yard. In real cold zones it’s rare for Alstroemeria to survive. Below about 23°F (-5°C) they will suffer damage.
Winter Watering
Once in a while in the winter give a light dose of water to your Peruvian Lilies. They will go dormant before they resume growth and blooming the next spring.
Storing Roots
You can store your Peruvian Lilies over the winter in a temperature range of 35-41°F (2-5 °C). Keep them in a slightly moist mix during this time. Be cautious when lifting the roots as they are very brittle and can be damaged if not handled carefully. Occasionally check your tubers during the winter to be sure none are shrivelling or rotting. If you find any just throw them out.
Propagating Through Seeds
It’s not a good idea to attempt to divide Alstroemeria because of the aforementioned brittleness and difficulty of keeping them healthy during the process. It can be done, the results can’t be counted on and are unpredictable. Other than digging the roots in the fall and storing them, another option is to wait until the flowers have totally dried out and collect them from the pods at that time. You can plant them in containers to prepare for the following year, or sow them directly into the ground.
The flowers can be spotted or streaked with darker colors, which look extraordinary. A recent development for the Alstroemeria is the introduction of dwarf varieties, which offer more flexibility and alternatives to places you can put the plant. They especially work well for potted containers, and can be placed in smaller garden beds where bigger plants may not work as well. Some of these new dwarf varieties have long blooming seasons, making them a welcome addition for your gardening strategy.
Where to Plant
The best place to plant Peruvian Lily is where they will either receive full sun or a slightly shaded area. At least allow them to have good morning sun. Drainage is important for the survival of Peruvian Lily, so be sure it drains well. Observe how the proposed area you want to plant responds after a good rain. If it still has standing water after about 5 hours, look for another location. If you’re limited to a certain location which holds water too long, build up the soil to a higher level to improve its drainage capabilities. The plant will rot if it sits in standing water or soggy soil.
When to Plant
You can plant Alstroemeria after the last frost is over. If you have your bare root plants but the ground is still hard or too wet, place the roots in a pot until the ground is ready for them. Keep them in a cool area while you’re waiting. Don’t water them much before placing them in the soil and are still in the pots.
How to Plant
Before you grab your plant with bare hands, be aware that Peruvian Lily can be irritating to the eyes and skin. It’s best to wear gloves and remember not to rub your eyes until you’re done with the job. As for the hole size to dig, go down deep enough so when you put the bareroot in it’ll be level with the top of the bed, covered with a little soil. The hole width should be wide enough so you spread the roots out. Space the roots about a foot apart when planting. You can now fill it in, pressing down on the soil when your finished, and/or watering it to help settle the soil around the root. Assuming it’s placed in a spot with good drainage, this won’t hurt the plant. If the soil is really cool, you can wait a little while until the ground warms up, as the plants will grow much quicker for you.
After Planting Care
For the most part the care needed for Alstroemeria is in regard to watering. They do like to get a good drink, throwing off better and larger flowers in response. You only need to be sure not to water to the point of the ground becoming too wet, which would overwhelm the plant.
Warmer Zones
Peruvian Lily will grow and bloom late into the year in zones 8-10, or possibly in other zones with the right conditions. In those zones that are borderline, you can apply some mulch to protect the plants over the winter. Sometimes in zones 8-10 the plant will occasionally throw off some blooms, giving some late-season color to the yard. In real cold zones it’s rare for Alstroemeria to survive. Below about 23°F (-5°C) they will suffer damage.
Winter Watering
Once in a while in the winter give a light dose of water to your Peruvian Lilies. They will go dormant before they resume growth and blooming the next spring.
Storing Roots
You can store your Peruvian Lilies over the winter in a temperature range of 35-41°F (2-5 °C). Keep them in a slightly moist mix during this time. Be cautious when lifting the roots as they are very brittle and can be damaged if not handled carefully. Occasionally check your tubers during the winter to be sure none are shrivelling or rotting. If you find any just throw them out.
Propagating Through Seeds
It’s not a good idea to attempt to divide Alstroemeria because of the aforementioned brittleness and difficulty of keeping them healthy during the process. It can be done, the results can’t be counted on and are unpredictable. Other than digging the roots in the fall and storing them, another option is to wait until the flowers have totally dried out and collect them from the pods at that time. You can plant them in containers to prepare for the following year, or sow them directly into the ground.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月28日
Ranunculus is a large genus of about 600 species of plants in the Ranunculaceae. Members of the genus include the Buttercups, Spearworts, and Water Crowfoots.
They produce cheery multi-petaled flowers. The almost unpronounceable name covers a large group of perennials from Asia and Europe. The plants aren’t very hardy and may be annual in colder zones. They are easily damaged by temperatures below 28°F (-2°C), and thrive best in USDA zones 8 to 10.
A colorful field of flowers livens up the landscape and is easy to achieve with Ranunculus plants. Ranunculus bulbs come in several sizes and are best planted 4 inches (10 cm) apart. Using Ranunculus for the garden will reward the grower with an abundance of color and texture from early spring into the first month of summer. Ranunculus for the garden come in an array of colors from white, red and gold to orange, yellow and pink. The flowers boast layers of petals and will develop up to 12 inches (30 cm) in height. You can choose standard sized Ranunculus plants or dwarf specimens, which only get 8 inches (20 cm) high. Some varieties will produce flowers that span 6 to 12 inches (15 to 30 cm) in width. You may start Ranunculus bulbs directly outdoors or purchase started transplants at a nursery. The tubers must be soaked prior to planting for best results. Use the plants in borders, containers and wildflower fields. The thick rosettes will last for a week or more when used as cut flowers. Plant bulbs outside in fall in warmer zones and start them indoors in pots in cooler climates.
Growing Conditions and General Care
Growing Ranunculus flowers starts with planted roots or tubers. Often called Ranunculus bulbs, tubers are different but have similar structures and purposes to the more common bulb. Plant the bulbs or tubers in fall for a glorious spring display.
Growing Ranunculus flowers requires well-drained soil and full sun for best results.
Soak the tubers and then plant then with the roots or fingers pointed downward at a depth of 1 to 2 inches (2.5 to 5 cm), depending on the size of the bulbs.
It is an easy flower to grow. Care of Ranunculus to ensure yearly displays may require that you pull out the tubers at the end of the season.
Allow the foliage to almost completely die back and then dig out the tubers. Lay them in a cool, dry place to evaporate all the moisture from the bulbs. Store the tubers in a dark location until spring and then start them indoors in pots. Replant outside when all danger of frost is passed and the first true leaves are evident.
Plants require temperatures of no more than 60 F. (16 C.) during the day and 45 to 50 °F (7 to 10 °C) at night to break dormancy and begin sprouting. Plants may survive as perennials in Zone 7 if you mulch lightly around the bases. Follow these suggestions when growing Ranunculus flowers for garden displays or cut flowers and you will reap the rewards year after year.
They produce cheery multi-petaled flowers. The almost unpronounceable name covers a large group of perennials from Asia and Europe. The plants aren’t very hardy and may be annual in colder zones. They are easily damaged by temperatures below 28°F (-2°C), and thrive best in USDA zones 8 to 10.
A colorful field of flowers livens up the landscape and is easy to achieve with Ranunculus plants. Ranunculus bulbs come in several sizes and are best planted 4 inches (10 cm) apart. Using Ranunculus for the garden will reward the grower with an abundance of color and texture from early spring into the first month of summer. Ranunculus for the garden come in an array of colors from white, red and gold to orange, yellow and pink. The flowers boast layers of petals and will develop up to 12 inches (30 cm) in height. You can choose standard sized Ranunculus plants or dwarf specimens, which only get 8 inches (20 cm) high. Some varieties will produce flowers that span 6 to 12 inches (15 to 30 cm) in width. You may start Ranunculus bulbs directly outdoors or purchase started transplants at a nursery. The tubers must be soaked prior to planting for best results. Use the plants in borders, containers and wildflower fields. The thick rosettes will last for a week or more when used as cut flowers. Plant bulbs outside in fall in warmer zones and start them indoors in pots in cooler climates.
Growing Conditions and General Care
Growing Ranunculus flowers starts with planted roots or tubers. Often called Ranunculus bulbs, tubers are different but have similar structures and purposes to the more common bulb. Plant the bulbs or tubers in fall for a glorious spring display.
Growing Ranunculus flowers requires well-drained soil and full sun for best results.
Soak the tubers and then plant then with the roots or fingers pointed downward at a depth of 1 to 2 inches (2.5 to 5 cm), depending on the size of the bulbs.
It is an easy flower to grow. Care of Ranunculus to ensure yearly displays may require that you pull out the tubers at the end of the season.
Allow the foliage to almost completely die back and then dig out the tubers. Lay them in a cool, dry place to evaporate all the moisture from the bulbs. Store the tubers in a dark location until spring and then start them indoors in pots. Replant outside when all danger of frost is passed and the first true leaves are evident.
Plants require temperatures of no more than 60 F. (16 C.) during the day and 45 to 50 °F (7 to 10 °C) at night to break dormancy and begin sprouting. Plants may survive as perennials in Zone 7 if you mulch lightly around the bases. Follow these suggestions when growing Ranunculus flowers for garden displays or cut flowers and you will reap the rewards year after year.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月28日
Some of the most popular orchid plants among home growers are Dendrobium orchids These showy flowers are relatively easy to grow, with a central long stem and an attractive spray of flowers that can last up to four weeks.
There are many Dendrobium varieties, and each one has slightly different growing conditions. Luckily, with all the types of Dendrobium orchids to choose from, there is likely to be one that fits your home environment perfectly.
Dendrobium is sort of the catch-all of orchid species. When you look for Dendrobium orchid info, you can find whole books devoted to each of the different types of Dendrobium orchids that can fall into this category. In general, though, you can separate them in a few different groups.
Sheer beginners will love Nobile orchids. These hybrids go dormant for a couple of months in the winter, losing some of their leaves in the process. These plants can have up to 50 blooms on one stem, making for a stunning floral display. Growers have perfected the Nobile hybrids so closely that they can even cause them to bloom for any requested holiday. If you’re looking for an orchid with lots of helpful information available about it, this is the one to choose.
Growing Conditions and General Care
Although there is a huge variety from which to choose, when it comes to learning how to grow Dendrobium orchids, there are two important rules that they all follow.
First, they like to live in little pots with their roots crowded into a tiny area. If you try to be nice and give them room to spread out, the roots are likely to stay too moist and begin to rot. If you don’t like the look of a large plant growing in a ridiculously small pot, camouflage it in a larger planter.
The other way to care for Dendrobium orchids is to give them as much bright light as possible. This doesn’t mean sticking them in the desert sunlight, but a south-facing window in the house is the place where they will thrive. In almost all cases, when your Dendrobium orchid isn’t flowering, it’s a case of not enough sunlight.
There are many Dendrobium varieties, and each one has slightly different growing conditions. Luckily, with all the types of Dendrobium orchids to choose from, there is likely to be one that fits your home environment perfectly.
Dendrobium is sort of the catch-all of orchid species. When you look for Dendrobium orchid info, you can find whole books devoted to each of the different types of Dendrobium orchids that can fall into this category. In general, though, you can separate them in a few different groups.
Sheer beginners will love Nobile orchids. These hybrids go dormant for a couple of months in the winter, losing some of their leaves in the process. These plants can have up to 50 blooms on one stem, making for a stunning floral display. Growers have perfected the Nobile hybrids so closely that they can even cause them to bloom for any requested holiday. If you’re looking for an orchid with lots of helpful information available about it, this is the one to choose.
Growing Conditions and General Care
Although there is a huge variety from which to choose, when it comes to learning how to grow Dendrobium orchids, there are two important rules that they all follow.
First, they like to live in little pots with their roots crowded into a tiny area. If you try to be nice and give them room to spread out, the roots are likely to stay too moist and begin to rot. If you don’t like the look of a large plant growing in a ridiculously small pot, camouflage it in a larger planter.
The other way to care for Dendrobium orchids is to give them as much bright light as possible. This doesn’t mean sticking them in the desert sunlight, but a south-facing window in the house is the place where they will thrive. In almost all cases, when your Dendrobium orchid isn’t flowering, it’s a case of not enough sunlight.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月28日
Flowers of Hellebores (genus Helleborus) are a welcome sight when they bloom in late winter to early spring, sometimes while the ground is still covered with snow. Different varieties of the Hellebore plant offer a range of flower colors, from white to black. One of the earliest blooms spotted in many areas, nodding hellebore flowers are often fragrant and long-lasting.
Growing Hellebores is a worthwhile task for the gardener. Aside from lovely and unusual flowers, the Hellebore plant has attractive green foliage that is aesthetically pleasing in the landscape.
Once established, Hellebore care is minimal. This herbaceous or evergreen perennial is disliked by deer and other animal pests prone to munching on plants. All parts of the Hellebore plant are poisonous, so take care to keep children and pets away.
Growing Conditions and General Care
When planting from seed or division, place the Hellebore into well-draining, organic soil in a filtered sun or shady location. The Hellebore plant will return for many years; make sure the space will accommodate growth and has proper sunlight.
Hellebores need no more than a few hours of dappled light and grow successfully in shady areas. Plant the Hellebore under deciduous trees or scattered through a woodland garden or shaded natural area.
Soaking the soil in which the Hellebore is growing helps the Hellebore plant to look its best. Hellebore care includes removal of older leaves when they appear damaged.
Care for Hellebores should also include careful fertilization. Too much nitrogen may result in lush foliage and a shortage of blooms.
Plant Hellebore seeds in the fall. A 60-day moist chilling period is needed when planting seeds of the Hellebore plant. Planting seed in fall allows this to happen naturally in areas with cold winters. Wait three to four years for blooms on young plants grown from seed. Divide overgrown clumps in spring, after flowering or in autumn.
Growing Hellebores is a worthwhile task for the gardener. Aside from lovely and unusual flowers, the Hellebore plant has attractive green foliage that is aesthetically pleasing in the landscape.
Once established, Hellebore care is minimal. This herbaceous or evergreen perennial is disliked by deer and other animal pests prone to munching on plants. All parts of the Hellebore plant are poisonous, so take care to keep children and pets away.
Growing Conditions and General Care
When planting from seed or division, place the Hellebore into well-draining, organic soil in a filtered sun or shady location. The Hellebore plant will return for many years; make sure the space will accommodate growth and has proper sunlight.
Hellebores need no more than a few hours of dappled light and grow successfully in shady areas. Plant the Hellebore under deciduous trees or scattered through a woodland garden or shaded natural area.
Soaking the soil in which the Hellebore is growing helps the Hellebore plant to look its best. Hellebore care includes removal of older leaves when they appear damaged.
Care for Hellebores should also include careful fertilization. Too much nitrogen may result in lush foliage and a shortage of blooms.
Plant Hellebore seeds in the fall. A 60-day moist chilling period is needed when planting seeds of the Hellebore plant. Planting seed in fall allows this to happen naturally in areas with cold winters. Wait three to four years for blooms on young plants grown from seed. Divide overgrown clumps in spring, after flowering or in autumn.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月28日
Greater Celandine (Chelidonium majus) is alovely shade loving perennial plant that is ideal for woodland settings. Will naturalize in woodlands and bring them to life in late spring with a mass of bright yellow flowers floating in blue-green foliage.
Once established these plants take little or no maintenance. It is a short lived perennial hardy to zone 6 but it will self seed in suitable surroundings and may take over an area if not watched. It likes a good moist soil, which is most often found in woodlands, but it will also grow on semi shaded walls and rock gardens. Ideal for rocky wooded locations. Due to the alkaloid content this plant is not eaten by deer or rabbits. All parts of the plant will exude a yellow/orange sap when broken. This can cause skin problems in some people. The plant is considered to be mildly poisonous.
It is reported that the leaves can be eaten if boiled well and water changed several times.
Greater Celandine has a long history of use in herbal medicine. The leaves and the sap are used most often as a mild sedative detoxifying and antispasmodic especially for relaxing the bronchial tubes, intestines and muscles as well as whooping cough, asthma, jaundice, gallstones and gallbladder pains. Caution should be taken when using this herb internally since it contains the many alkaloids that are considered toxic. The orange sap is used externally to treat warts, ringworm and corns as well as films from the cornea of the eye. The roots are also used and research has shown them to have possible anticancer properties.
Growing Conditions and General Care
Greater Celandine will grow in almost any soil except waterlogged but it does like a reasonable amount of water. Ideal plant for part or full shade but it will grow in full sun in lower zones (6 and 7) provided it has moisture. Prefers a rich woodland soil in semi shade with decent moisture. It is an excellent choice for growing on partially shaded walls or in rock gardens provided there is a pocket of soil to establish its roots. It is a short lived perennial but it will self seed in suitable locations, sometimes aggressively and will take over thin woodland areas if left alone.
Growing from Seed
Germination can be slow and erratic with some seeds taking up to twelve months to sprout. Can be sown in place in early spring or late fall. If choosing this approach keep weeds in the area to a minimum to allow seeds time to germinate and plants to establish. Once the first ones are established they often self seed and proliferate, but this can take several years to achieve. Seeds and also be started in pots. Individual pots with several seeds per pot or cell flats are recommended so seedlings can be removed as they grow without disturbing other seeds. Some will often germinate rapidly but others may not so patience is needed. Start indoors in later winter and remove plants as they become large enough to transplant. Place rest of growing medium outside in a semi shaded area and continue to water throughout the year picking out seedlings as they appear. It is best if they pots/flat are placed on a bench or shelf to reduce weed seed introduction to the growing medium. Trays can be left out over winter if all the seeds have still not germinated.
Harvesting
Greater Celandine plants are harvested during the spring when they begin to bloom. Herb can be used fresh or dried for later use. Roots are harvested in the fall when they are at their peak. These can also be dried for later use. It is highly recommended that gloves be worn when harvesting any of this plant from leaves, roots or seeds. The latex is mildly toxic and many people have a allergic reaction that can cause rashes and skin.
Once established these plants take little or no maintenance. It is a short lived perennial hardy to zone 6 but it will self seed in suitable surroundings and may take over an area if not watched. It likes a good moist soil, which is most often found in woodlands, but it will also grow on semi shaded walls and rock gardens. Ideal for rocky wooded locations. Due to the alkaloid content this plant is not eaten by deer or rabbits. All parts of the plant will exude a yellow/orange sap when broken. This can cause skin problems in some people. The plant is considered to be mildly poisonous.
It is reported that the leaves can be eaten if boiled well and water changed several times.
Greater Celandine has a long history of use in herbal medicine. The leaves and the sap are used most often as a mild sedative detoxifying and antispasmodic especially for relaxing the bronchial tubes, intestines and muscles as well as whooping cough, asthma, jaundice, gallstones and gallbladder pains. Caution should be taken when using this herb internally since it contains the many alkaloids that are considered toxic. The orange sap is used externally to treat warts, ringworm and corns as well as films from the cornea of the eye. The roots are also used and research has shown them to have possible anticancer properties.
Growing Conditions and General Care
Greater Celandine will grow in almost any soil except waterlogged but it does like a reasonable amount of water. Ideal plant for part or full shade but it will grow in full sun in lower zones (6 and 7) provided it has moisture. Prefers a rich woodland soil in semi shade with decent moisture. It is an excellent choice for growing on partially shaded walls or in rock gardens provided there is a pocket of soil to establish its roots. It is a short lived perennial but it will self seed in suitable locations, sometimes aggressively and will take over thin woodland areas if left alone.
Growing from Seed
Germination can be slow and erratic with some seeds taking up to twelve months to sprout. Can be sown in place in early spring or late fall. If choosing this approach keep weeds in the area to a minimum to allow seeds time to germinate and plants to establish. Once the first ones are established they often self seed and proliferate, but this can take several years to achieve. Seeds and also be started in pots. Individual pots with several seeds per pot or cell flats are recommended so seedlings can be removed as they grow without disturbing other seeds. Some will often germinate rapidly but others may not so patience is needed. Start indoors in later winter and remove plants as they become large enough to transplant. Place rest of growing medium outside in a semi shaded area and continue to water throughout the year picking out seedlings as they appear. It is best if they pots/flat are placed on a bench or shelf to reduce weed seed introduction to the growing medium. Trays can be left out over winter if all the seeds have still not germinated.
Harvesting
Greater Celandine plants are harvested during the spring when they begin to bloom. Herb can be used fresh or dried for later use. Roots are harvested in the fall when they are at their peak. These can also be dried for later use. It is highly recommended that gloves be worn when harvesting any of this plant from leaves, roots or seeds. The latex is mildly toxic and many people have a allergic reaction that can cause rashes and skin.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月28日
Laburnums are more commonly known as Golden Chain Trees. In the spring, the tree blooms with large clusters of bright yellow flowers. The panicles, or clusters, can be up to 10 inches (25 cm) in length.
Desirable for their showy spring appearance, the trees can grow on a single trunk or as a shrub. Although attractive and relatively free of pests, they can be moderately difficult to grow, as the plants have rather specific environmental needs. Laburnums thrive best in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 6 through 8.
Growing Conditions and General Care
Choose a growing site that is exposed to full sunlight. The more sunlight, the better the Laburnum will bloom. An exception to this rule is home gardeners who live in USDA zone 8. Laburnums do not tolerate heat well, so gardeners who live in hotter climates should choose a location that gets morning sun but is shaded from direct exposure to hot afternoon sunlight.
Plant your Laburnum in rich, well-drained soil. These trees are small — they average about 20 feet (50 cm) in height — so they can also be grown in containers. If you use a container, make sure it has drainage holes.
Water frequently. These trees thrive in cool, moist soils and grow best in climates that have mild, wet summers. Water at least once each week — more often when the weather is hotter than usual.
Fertilize in early spring, before bud break. Use a fertilizer formulated for flowering trees and shrubs, and one that has a high acid content. Laburnum thrive in high pH soils. Follow the directions on the package according to the size and age of your Laburnum.
Wrap the trunk of the tree with tree wrap — available at any local garden center — to protect the bark from being damaged by the sun in the winter. This damage is called “sunscald,” and it happens when a warm winter day is followed by freezing temperatures. Wrap the tree in the fall, before colder weather arrives.
Tip
Home gardeners who live in USDA zone 8 might be wise to grow their plants in containers. This way, they will get the full effect of the sun during most of the spring, and blooming will be optimized. When midsummer arrives, the tree can be moved to the shade.
Warning
The flowers and seed pods of this tree are poisonous, so keep them out of reach of children and pets.
Desirable for their showy spring appearance, the trees can grow on a single trunk or as a shrub. Although attractive and relatively free of pests, they can be moderately difficult to grow, as the plants have rather specific environmental needs. Laburnums thrive best in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 6 through 8.
Growing Conditions and General Care
Choose a growing site that is exposed to full sunlight. The more sunlight, the better the Laburnum will bloom. An exception to this rule is home gardeners who live in USDA zone 8. Laburnums do not tolerate heat well, so gardeners who live in hotter climates should choose a location that gets morning sun but is shaded from direct exposure to hot afternoon sunlight.
Plant your Laburnum in rich, well-drained soil. These trees are small — they average about 20 feet (50 cm) in height — so they can also be grown in containers. If you use a container, make sure it has drainage holes.
Water frequently. These trees thrive in cool, moist soils and grow best in climates that have mild, wet summers. Water at least once each week — more often when the weather is hotter than usual.
Fertilize in early spring, before bud break. Use a fertilizer formulated for flowering trees and shrubs, and one that has a high acid content. Laburnum thrive in high pH soils. Follow the directions on the package according to the size and age of your Laburnum.
Wrap the trunk of the tree with tree wrap — available at any local garden center — to protect the bark from being damaged by the sun in the winter. This damage is called “sunscald,” and it happens when a warm winter day is followed by freezing temperatures. Wrap the tree in the fall, before colder weather arrives.
Tip
Home gardeners who live in USDA zone 8 might be wise to grow their plants in containers. This way, they will get the full effect of the sun during most of the spring, and blooming will be optimized. When midsummer arrives, the tree can be moved to the shade.
Warning
The flowers and seed pods of this tree are poisonous, so keep them out of reach of children and pets.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月28日
The Meconopsis genus contains short lived hardy perennials that reach a height of 1 to 5 feet (30 cm to 1.5 m). They carry poppy like flowers that can bloom in spring, summer or the start of autumn (species dependent). Many Meconopsis species are known for their blue poppy like flowers but they can also carry flowers of many other colors including white, orange, pink and yellow. Some of the common names for Meconopsis include Welsh Poppy, Asiatic Poppy, Blue Poppy and Harebell Poppy.
The Blue Poppy is the national flower of Bhutan. Welsh poppies can be invasive.
Growing Conditions and General Care
Full sunlight (cool areas only); full or partial shade. Acidic soil. Add grit to heavy soils. Nutrient-rich soil, add manure, leaf matter or compost if necessary. Moist soil. Supply mulch of manure of bark chippings when planting to help maintain moisture; do not cover the crowns. Regular watering during dry periods in summer to keep the soil moist. No need to water in the winter as the plant prefers a dry soil whilst resting. Cut back to the ground in autumn. Replace regularly as Meconopsis do not live for long time.
How to Grow from Seeds
The seeds of the Meconopsis should be sown on the surface; this can wither be done just before the last frost of spring or towards the end of autumn. Blue Poppies prefer to grow in a shady or partially shady part of the gardens but can tolerate sunny areas in milder climates. They like a rich acidic soil, ideally the soil should be kept moist in the summer, but allowed to dry in the winter.
When starting Blue Poppy off indoors do so about two months in advance. The Meconopsis seeds should be sown in vermiculite. It should take about two to four weeks for blue poppy to germinate at 54 to 64 degrees Fahrenheit (12 to 18 degrees Celsius). Once growing the seedlings should be watered from beneath. Once ready transplant the young Meconopsis plants at a spacing of 12 inches/30 cm (small) to 2.5-3 feet/75-90 cm (large) apart. This should be done following the last frost of spring.
Grower’s Tips
When growing Meconopsis plants in the garden it is very important to keep the soil moist in the summer. Once the growing period has finished, cut back Meconopsis plant to ground level (autumn). If you require more plants then they can be propagated by division at the start of spring.
The Blue Poppy is the national flower of Bhutan. Welsh poppies can be invasive.
Growing Conditions and General Care
Full sunlight (cool areas only); full or partial shade. Acidic soil. Add grit to heavy soils. Nutrient-rich soil, add manure, leaf matter or compost if necessary. Moist soil. Supply mulch of manure of bark chippings when planting to help maintain moisture; do not cover the crowns. Regular watering during dry periods in summer to keep the soil moist. No need to water in the winter as the plant prefers a dry soil whilst resting. Cut back to the ground in autumn. Replace regularly as Meconopsis do not live for long time.
How to Grow from Seeds
The seeds of the Meconopsis should be sown on the surface; this can wither be done just before the last frost of spring or towards the end of autumn. Blue Poppies prefer to grow in a shady or partially shady part of the gardens but can tolerate sunny areas in milder climates. They like a rich acidic soil, ideally the soil should be kept moist in the summer, but allowed to dry in the winter.
When starting Blue Poppy off indoors do so about two months in advance. The Meconopsis seeds should be sown in vermiculite. It should take about two to four weeks for blue poppy to germinate at 54 to 64 degrees Fahrenheit (12 to 18 degrees Celsius). Once growing the seedlings should be watered from beneath. Once ready transplant the young Meconopsis plants at a spacing of 12 inches/30 cm (small) to 2.5-3 feet/75-90 cm (large) apart. This should be done following the last frost of spring.
Grower’s Tips
When growing Meconopsis plants in the garden it is very important to keep the soil moist in the summer. Once the growing period has finished, cut back Meconopsis plant to ground level (autumn). If you require more plants then they can be propagated by division at the start of spring.
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