文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月30日
Revered for its beauty, the stunning Dahlia flower comes in diverse shapes, sizes and colors. The Dahlia blooms for extended periods of time, surpassing most other garden flowers, and many gardening enthusiasts refer to it as the “Queen of the Autumn Garden”. The Dahlia‘s allure has a far reach: it is San Francisco’s official flower, an official emblem of Mexico, and is considered in Japan to be a sign of good taste.
History
Indigenous to the highlands of Mexico and Guatemala, the Dahlia flower first arrived in Europe in the 1500s, following the defeat of the Aztec Indians by Spanish conquistadors. Dahlias were introduced to Spain by returning botanists, who had accompanied the Spaniards to the New World. In 1789, Vincente Cervantes, director of Mexico City’s Botanical Gardens, sent Dahlia seeds to Spanish botanist Antonio Cavanilles of Madrid. Eventually, Cavanilles sent Dahlia bulbs to Swedish botanist Andreas Dahl, for whom the Dahlia is named. Dahl helped popularize the flower throughout Western Europe and Scandinavia.
Ancient Uses
Before the Spanish arrived in Mexico, the Aztecs named the Dahlia “Acocotli,” which means “water cane.” This specifically referred to the Dahlia imperialis, which today is called tree Dahlia. Growing to a height of 20 feet or more, this variety of Dahlia has hollow stems, which Aztec hunters used to transport water. Centuries ago, the Dahlia‘s large, fleshy roots, or tubers, held significant meaning for the Aztecs, who used the underground part of the plant to create a treatment for epilepsy.
Names
Dahlia, which means “valley,” is a reference to Andreas Dahl, though it unclear as to why the flower received his surname instead of being named after one of the first Spanish botanists to study it. Dahlia flowers belong to the Asteraceae family, a group that includes Sunflowers, Asters and Daisies. “Asteraceae” means “star,” referring to the star shape of the Dahlia blossom.
Love and Dahlias
Symbolizing hope for an everlasting union between two people, Dahlia flowers are presented to couples at engagement parties and weddings. These flowers, which bloom in white and a variety of showy hues, including pink, crimson, orange and yellow, are given as an anniversary gift in celebration of 14 years of marriage, although the origin of this tradition is unknown.
Considerations
In Victorian times it was inappropriate to exhibit intimate feelings in public, and the exchange of flowers expressed unspoken words of affection. Dahlias, like many of varieties of flower, were imbued with different meanings. Dahlia blossoms represent contradictory virtues. The flower’s negative connotations of betrayal, instability and dishonesty conflict greatly with Victorian-era ones of dignity, elegance and forever thine, which are still relevant meanings of today. Because of its disparate meanings, a written explanation included with the bouquet of Dahlia flowers might help to clarify a sender’s intentions to the recipient.
History
Indigenous to the highlands of Mexico and Guatemala, the Dahlia flower first arrived in Europe in the 1500s, following the defeat of the Aztec Indians by Spanish conquistadors. Dahlias were introduced to Spain by returning botanists, who had accompanied the Spaniards to the New World. In 1789, Vincente Cervantes, director of Mexico City’s Botanical Gardens, sent Dahlia seeds to Spanish botanist Antonio Cavanilles of Madrid. Eventually, Cavanilles sent Dahlia bulbs to Swedish botanist Andreas Dahl, for whom the Dahlia is named. Dahl helped popularize the flower throughout Western Europe and Scandinavia.
Ancient Uses
Before the Spanish arrived in Mexico, the Aztecs named the Dahlia “Acocotli,” which means “water cane.” This specifically referred to the Dahlia imperialis, which today is called tree Dahlia. Growing to a height of 20 feet or more, this variety of Dahlia has hollow stems, which Aztec hunters used to transport water. Centuries ago, the Dahlia‘s large, fleshy roots, or tubers, held significant meaning for the Aztecs, who used the underground part of the plant to create a treatment for epilepsy.
Names
Dahlia, which means “valley,” is a reference to Andreas Dahl, though it unclear as to why the flower received his surname instead of being named after one of the first Spanish botanists to study it. Dahlia flowers belong to the Asteraceae family, a group that includes Sunflowers, Asters and Daisies. “Asteraceae” means “star,” referring to the star shape of the Dahlia blossom.
Love and Dahlias
Symbolizing hope for an everlasting union between two people, Dahlia flowers are presented to couples at engagement parties and weddings. These flowers, which bloom in white and a variety of showy hues, including pink, crimson, orange and yellow, are given as an anniversary gift in celebration of 14 years of marriage, although the origin of this tradition is unknown.
Considerations
In Victorian times it was inappropriate to exhibit intimate feelings in public, and the exchange of flowers expressed unspoken words of affection. Dahlias, like many of varieties of flower, were imbued with different meanings. Dahlia blossoms represent contradictory virtues. The flower’s negative connotations of betrayal, instability and dishonesty conflict greatly with Victorian-era ones of dignity, elegance and forever thine, which are still relevant meanings of today. Because of its disparate meanings, a written explanation included with the bouquet of Dahlia flowers might help to clarify a sender’s intentions to the recipient.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月30日
In Europe during the late 1800s, the idea that flowers represented feelings grew into a system of communicating through flower arrangements. Code books guided those who wanted to compose or read floral messages. According to one book, the apple blossom meant “Will the glow of love finally redden your delicate cheeks?” Field clover signified “Let me know when I can see you again.” A red rose petal meant “Yes!”, a white one “No!” Spurge, a green flower, carried the message: “Your nature is so cold that one might think your heart made of stone.” Users of this elaborate language needed not only a code book but also the ability to recognize blooms.
When Christians adopted the rose as a symbol, it still carried connections with ancient mother goddesses. The flower became associated with Mary, the mother of Christ, who was sometimes addressed as the Mystic or Holy Rose. In time, the rose took on additional meanings in Christian symbolism. Red roses came to represent the blood shed by the martyrs who died for their faith; white ones stood for innocence and purity. One Christian legend says that roses originally had no thorns. But after the sin of Adam and Eve—for which they were driven out of the Garden of Eden—the rose grew thorns to remind people that they no longer lived ill a state of perfection.
Sunflower
Some flowers turn their heads during the day, revolving slowly on their stalks to face the sun as it travels across the sky. The Greek myth of Clytie and Apollo, which exists in several versions, explains this movement as the legacy of a lovesick girl.
Clytie, who was either a water nymph or a princess of the ancient city of Babylon, fell in love with Apollo, god of the sun. For a time the god returned her love, but then he tired of her. The forlorn Clytie sat, day after day, slowly turning her head to watch Apollo move across the sky in his sun chariot. Eventually, the gods took pity on her and turned her into a flower. In some versions of the myth, she became a heliotrope or a marigold, but most accounts say that Clytie became a sunflower.
Violet
The violet, which grows low to the ground and has small purple or white flowers, appeared in an ancient Near Eastern myth that probably inspired the Greek and Roman myth of Venus and Adonis. According to this story, the great mother goddess Cybele loved Attis, who was killed while hunting a wild boar. Where his blood fell on the ground, violets grew.
The Greeks believed that violets were sacred to the god Ares and to Io, one of the many human loves of Zeus. Later, in Christian symbolism, the violet stood for the virtue of humility, or hum ble modesty, and several legends tell of violets springing up on the graves of virgins and saints. European folktales associate violets with death and mourning.
When Christians adopted the rose as a symbol, it still carried connections with ancient mother goddesses. The flower became associated with Mary, the mother of Christ, who was sometimes addressed as the Mystic or Holy Rose. In time, the rose took on additional meanings in Christian symbolism. Red roses came to represent the blood shed by the martyrs who died for their faith; white ones stood for innocence and purity. One Christian legend says that roses originally had no thorns. But after the sin of Adam and Eve—for which they were driven out of the Garden of Eden—the rose grew thorns to remind people that they no longer lived ill a state of perfection.
Sunflower
Some flowers turn their heads during the day, revolving slowly on their stalks to face the sun as it travels across the sky. The Greek myth of Clytie and Apollo, which exists in several versions, explains this movement as the legacy of a lovesick girl.
Clytie, who was either a water nymph or a princess of the ancient city of Babylon, fell in love with Apollo, god of the sun. For a time the god returned her love, but then he tired of her. The forlorn Clytie sat, day after day, slowly turning her head to watch Apollo move across the sky in his sun chariot. Eventually, the gods took pity on her and turned her into a flower. In some versions of the myth, she became a heliotrope or a marigold, but most accounts say that Clytie became a sunflower.
Violet
The violet, which grows low to the ground and has small purple or white flowers, appeared in an ancient Near Eastern myth that probably inspired the Greek and Roman myth of Venus and Adonis. According to this story, the great mother goddess Cybele loved Attis, who was killed while hunting a wild boar. Where his blood fell on the ground, violets grew.
The Greeks believed that violets were sacred to the god Ares and to Io, one of the many human loves of Zeus. Later, in Christian symbolism, the violet stood for the virtue of humility, or hum ble modesty, and several legends tell of violets springing up on the graves of virgins and saints. European folktales associate violets with death and mourning.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月30日
Do you look forward to spring each year? In addition to warmer temperatures, spring usually brings an explosion of color and beauty in the form of blooming flowers. If you’re like many fans of nature, you can’t wait until tulips and other spring flowers burst forth in all their glory.
Many of our friends already know that there’s a difference between annuals and perennials. Some plants, called annuals, grow from seed, produce flowers, and die all in one year. Perennials, on the other hand, can live for many years and flower many times. These are the plants that “come back” to bloom at about the same time year after year.
There are some plants, though, that don’t flower at all. In fact, they’re some of the oldest plants in the world. Some of the earliest species of non-flowering plants first appeared nearly 400 million years ago. Scientists who study plants — called botanists — believe that the wide variety of flowering plants we see today evolved from these older forms of non-flowering plants.
Are these ancient species of non-flowering plants still in existence today? You bet they are! And you’re probably familiar with many of them.
Botanists have identified 11 main types of non-flowering plants. They include the following: liverworts, mosses, hornworts, whisk ferns, club mosses, horsetails, ferns, conifers, cycads, ginkgo, and gnetophytes.
The first seven of these types of non-flowering plants reproduce by spores rather than seeds. The last four of these types — known as gymnosperms — produce “naked seeds” that are not enclosed by flowers like the seeds of flowering plants.
Unlike seeds, spores are tiny pieces of living plant material that can usually only be seen with a microscope. Non-flowering plants that reproduce via spores create large numbers of spores that they release into the air. They count on the wind to carry their spores to other areas where they can sprout (what scientists call germinating) to form new plants.
Just because a plant doesn’t flower doesn’t mean that it can’t be beautiful, though. You’re probably familiar with various species of gymnosperms, especially the conifers. Conifers produce their “naked seeds” in special cones. Conifers include the woody trees you know by names such as pines, firs, and cedars.
If you’ve ever seen a stand of pine trees on a snow-covered hillside, you can appreciate their evergreen beauty. They might not produce flowers, but they certainly provide a gorgeous backdrop of natural beauty that can help to highlight the many flowering plants that often exist around them.
Many of our friends already know that there’s a difference between annuals and perennials. Some plants, called annuals, grow from seed, produce flowers, and die all in one year. Perennials, on the other hand, can live for many years and flower many times. These are the plants that “come back” to bloom at about the same time year after year.
There are some plants, though, that don’t flower at all. In fact, they’re some of the oldest plants in the world. Some of the earliest species of non-flowering plants first appeared nearly 400 million years ago. Scientists who study plants — called botanists — believe that the wide variety of flowering plants we see today evolved from these older forms of non-flowering plants.
Are these ancient species of non-flowering plants still in existence today? You bet they are! And you’re probably familiar with many of them.
Botanists have identified 11 main types of non-flowering plants. They include the following: liverworts, mosses, hornworts, whisk ferns, club mosses, horsetails, ferns, conifers, cycads, ginkgo, and gnetophytes.
The first seven of these types of non-flowering plants reproduce by spores rather than seeds. The last four of these types — known as gymnosperms — produce “naked seeds” that are not enclosed by flowers like the seeds of flowering plants.
Unlike seeds, spores are tiny pieces of living plant material that can usually only be seen with a microscope. Non-flowering plants that reproduce via spores create large numbers of spores that they release into the air. They count on the wind to carry their spores to other areas where they can sprout (what scientists call germinating) to form new plants.
Just because a plant doesn’t flower doesn’t mean that it can’t be beautiful, though. You’re probably familiar with various species of gymnosperms, especially the conifers. Conifers produce their “naked seeds” in special cones. Conifers include the woody trees you know by names such as pines, firs, and cedars.
If you’ve ever seen a stand of pine trees on a snow-covered hillside, you can appreciate their evergreen beauty. They might not produce flowers, but they certainly provide a gorgeous backdrop of natural beauty that can help to highlight the many flowering plants that often exist around them.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月30日
Abominable Mystery
The search for the first flower has been a prime driving force for botanists interested in the evolution of seed plants.
The question as to how the first flowers appeared has been famously referred to as the “abominable mystery” by Charles Darwin.
Flowering plants are believed to have evolved around 140 million years ago. This is a time so deep in prehistory that it is difficult for the human mind to conceive.
Remarkably, a lineage of plants that has existed since then still exists.
And when the age of molecular sciences came about, a relatively unknown plant was about to make headlines in the scientific world, and earn a prominent place in the evolutionary history of plants.
This plant is none other than Amborella trichopoda.
Primitiveness of Amborella
Amborella is a rare understory shrub or small tree found only on the island of New Caledonia.
Amborella trichopoda is the only species in the genus, and is the only member of the family Amborellaceae.
It was known for some time already, that Amborella wood has a peculiar character – it lacks the vessels characteristic of most flowering plants.
This lack of vessels is a trait that is more typically associated with conifers, and is therefore thought to be a primitive trait in the evolution of plants in general.
There are a few lineages of flowering plants which also lack vessels and these lineages are also considered to be very old plant lineages.
However, it was only at the advent of the molecular age that Amborella was finally assigned it’s rightful place at or near the base of all flowering plant lineages.
Amborella thus represents a line of flowering plants that diverged very early (about 130 million years ago) from all the other known species of flowering plants.
Imaginarium
Knowing the history of Amborella and standing beside a live specimen is a strange experience.
One gets the sense of how a prehistorical landscape with Amborella might have looked like.
In a time before flowering plants dominated the earth, humble Amborella-like shrubs must have eked out a meagre existence in the understoreys of a conifer-dominated forest.
And the descendants within the Amborella lineage have persisted long after the demise of the dinosaurs, to witness now the dominion of the most advanced of flowers.
Such is the drama of a very-likely-to-be spurious imagined botanical ancestry of Amborella.
But the real story that has led to Amborella’s presence in our world, in our time, is lost in a long broken line of ancestors, with no fossils yet to link any dots.
Charles Darwin’s “abominable mystery” is still just as abominable now, as it was a century ago.
Standing before Amborella, I ask of her ancestry. She smiles and remains silent.
The search for the first flower has been a prime driving force for botanists interested in the evolution of seed plants.
The question as to how the first flowers appeared has been famously referred to as the “abominable mystery” by Charles Darwin.
Flowering plants are believed to have evolved around 140 million years ago. This is a time so deep in prehistory that it is difficult for the human mind to conceive.
Remarkably, a lineage of plants that has existed since then still exists.
And when the age of molecular sciences came about, a relatively unknown plant was about to make headlines in the scientific world, and earn a prominent place in the evolutionary history of plants.
This plant is none other than Amborella trichopoda.
Primitiveness of Amborella
Amborella is a rare understory shrub or small tree found only on the island of New Caledonia.
Amborella trichopoda is the only species in the genus, and is the only member of the family Amborellaceae.
It was known for some time already, that Amborella wood has a peculiar character – it lacks the vessels characteristic of most flowering plants.
This lack of vessels is a trait that is more typically associated with conifers, and is therefore thought to be a primitive trait in the evolution of plants in general.
There are a few lineages of flowering plants which also lack vessels and these lineages are also considered to be very old plant lineages.
However, it was only at the advent of the molecular age that Amborella was finally assigned it’s rightful place at or near the base of all flowering plant lineages.
Amborella thus represents a line of flowering plants that diverged very early (about 130 million years ago) from all the other known species of flowering plants.
Imaginarium
Knowing the history of Amborella and standing beside a live specimen is a strange experience.
One gets the sense of how a prehistorical landscape with Amborella might have looked like.
In a time before flowering plants dominated the earth, humble Amborella-like shrubs must have eked out a meagre existence in the understoreys of a conifer-dominated forest.
And the descendants within the Amborella lineage have persisted long after the demise of the dinosaurs, to witness now the dominion of the most advanced of flowers.
Such is the drama of a very-likely-to-be spurious imagined botanical ancestry of Amborella.
But the real story that has led to Amborella’s presence in our world, in our time, is lost in a long broken line of ancestors, with no fossils yet to link any dots.
Charles Darwin’s “abominable mystery” is still just as abominable now, as it was a century ago.
Standing before Amborella, I ask of her ancestry. She smiles and remains silent.
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0
文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月30日
There are currently 235,000 known species of flowering plants in the world, and more are discovered every year. More than 60 percent of these grow in the warm, wet climate of tropical rainforests. Some tropical flowers go to extremes in size, odor and survival strategies. Most of these couldn’t survive in a suburban garden, and you probably wouldn’t want them to. 
There are, however, some uncommon flowers that you can safely harbor in your garden or on your window sill. In this article, we’ll examine 10 very unusual flowers.
1. Snake’s Head (Fritillaria meleagris)
A species of flowering plant in the family Liliaceae. Its other common names include Chess Flower, Frog Cup, Guinea Hen Flower, Leper Lily (because its shape resembled the bell once carried by lepers), Lazarus Bell, Checkered Lily or, in northern Europe, simply Fritillary.
2. Flame Lily (Gloriosa superba)
This unusual flowering plant is native of tropical regions of Asia and Africa and belongs to the family Colchicaceae. Flame Lily usually grows as tuberous climbing plant and produces unusual red or yellow flowers with wavy edges. It is the national flower of Zimbabwe.
3. Corpse Lily (Rafflesia arnoldii)
This remarkable flower is the largest flower in the world. It is rare and hard to find in its habitat which are the rain forests of Bengkulu, Sumatra Island and Indonesia. Flowers emit bad smell and can be as wide as 3.3 feet (1 m) wide and weigh up to 24 lbs (11 kg).
4. Bird of Paradise (Strelitzia reginae)
Bird of Paradise also known as Crane Flower is another unusual flower from South Africa. The plant belongs to the family Strelitziaceae and produced unusually colorful and beautiful flowers that resemble a bird.
5. Bee Orchid (Ophrys apifera)
Bee Orchid comes from the Mediterranean regions and belongs to the Orchid family. This perennial plant produces between one and ten flowers on each spike every summer.
6. Bleeding Heart (Lamprocapnos spectabilis)
A species of flowering plant in the Poppy family, native to Siberia, northern China, Korea and Japan. It is valued in gardens and in floristry for its heart-shaped pink flowers (that are poisonous). It is also known as Lady-in-a-Bath.
7. Maypop Passion Flower (Passiflora incarnata)
A fast growing perennial vine with climbing or trailing stems with large, intricate flowers with prominent styles and stamens. A member of the passionflower genus Passiflora. it is a common wildflower in the southern United States. Also known as Purple Passionflower, True Passionflower, Wild Apricot, and Wild Passion Vine.
8. Sea Poison Tree (Barringtonia asiatica)
A species of Barringtonia, common along the coasts of the Pacific Ocean and Indian Ocean. They have a sickly sweet smell that attracts bats and moths at night. It is grown along streets for decorative and shade purposes in some parts of India.
9. Torch Ginger (Etlingera elatior)
A species of herbaceous perennial plant. It is an exceptionally red, waxy flower found throughout gardens in Costa Rica. The showy flowers are used in decorative arrangements while the flower buds are an important ingredient in the Nyonya dish Laksa. In North Sumatra, the flower buds are used for a dish called Arsik Ikan. mas.
10. Huernia oculata
This flowering plant belongs to the family Apocynaceae. The plant produces small succulent stems that can be used to propagate the plant. The plant is fairly easy to grow in well drained soil and dry climate.
There are, however, some uncommon flowers that you can safely harbor in your garden or on your window sill. In this article, we’ll examine 10 very unusual flowers.
1. Snake’s Head (Fritillaria meleagris)
A species of flowering plant in the family Liliaceae. Its other common names include Chess Flower, Frog Cup, Guinea Hen Flower, Leper Lily (because its shape resembled the bell once carried by lepers), Lazarus Bell, Checkered Lily or, in northern Europe, simply Fritillary.
2. Flame Lily (Gloriosa superba)
This unusual flowering plant is native of tropical regions of Asia and Africa and belongs to the family Colchicaceae. Flame Lily usually grows as tuberous climbing plant and produces unusual red or yellow flowers with wavy edges. It is the national flower of Zimbabwe.
3. Corpse Lily (Rafflesia arnoldii)
This remarkable flower is the largest flower in the world. It is rare and hard to find in its habitat which are the rain forests of Bengkulu, Sumatra Island and Indonesia. Flowers emit bad smell and can be as wide as 3.3 feet (1 m) wide and weigh up to 24 lbs (11 kg).
4. Bird of Paradise (Strelitzia reginae)
Bird of Paradise also known as Crane Flower is another unusual flower from South Africa. The plant belongs to the family Strelitziaceae and produced unusually colorful and beautiful flowers that resemble a bird.
5. Bee Orchid (Ophrys apifera)
Bee Orchid comes from the Mediterranean regions and belongs to the Orchid family. This perennial plant produces between one and ten flowers on each spike every summer.
6. Bleeding Heart (Lamprocapnos spectabilis)
A species of flowering plant in the Poppy family, native to Siberia, northern China, Korea and Japan. It is valued in gardens and in floristry for its heart-shaped pink flowers (that are poisonous). It is also known as Lady-in-a-Bath.
7. Maypop Passion Flower (Passiflora incarnata)
A fast growing perennial vine with climbing or trailing stems with large, intricate flowers with prominent styles and stamens. A member of the passionflower genus Passiflora. it is a common wildflower in the southern United States. Also known as Purple Passionflower, True Passionflower, Wild Apricot, and Wild Passion Vine.
8. Sea Poison Tree (Barringtonia asiatica)
A species of Barringtonia, common along the coasts of the Pacific Ocean and Indian Ocean. They have a sickly sweet smell that attracts bats and moths at night. It is grown along streets for decorative and shade purposes in some parts of India.
9. Torch Ginger (Etlingera elatior)
A species of herbaceous perennial plant. It is an exceptionally red, waxy flower found throughout gardens in Costa Rica. The showy flowers are used in decorative arrangements while the flower buds are an important ingredient in the Nyonya dish Laksa. In North Sumatra, the flower buds are used for a dish called Arsik Ikan. mas.
10. Huernia oculata
This flowering plant belongs to the family Apocynaceae. The plant produces small succulent stems that can be used to propagate the plant. The plant is fairly easy to grow in well drained soil and dry climate.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月30日
Hibiscus flowers are one of the most spectacular blossoms a container gardener can grow. The blooms are large, colorful and incredibly graceful. The foliage of the Hibiscus plant is also beautiful – the dark green, glossy leaves, provide a wonderful contrast to the extravagant blooms.
Tropical Hibiscus flowers are one of the enduring symbols of the tropics. These much-beloved, large and showy flowers can be grown inside in temperate zones, but it’s not an easy task. The trick with success is twofold: managing the deadly winter, and fending off hungry insects. If you can fall into a rhythm, it’s possible to keep a hibiscus plant thriving for a decade or more, with blooms in the summer.
Growing Conditions
Light: Place outside in the summer, gradually acclimating to more light. In the winter, give as much direct light as possible.
Water: Water freely in the summer, but excellent drainage is a must. Never let the mix become soggy. In the winter, let dry almost completely before watering again.
Temperature: Even a few nights below 50ºF (10ºC) will kill a Hibiscus. Move them inside when the temperature is consistently 55ºF (13ºC). They prefer between 55ºF and 70ºF (13ºC and 21ºC).
Soil: Use a well-drained potting mix. Ensure also that the plant isn’t packed in too tight in order to keep its drainage is good. Poor drainage could rot the plant’s roots and slowly wear it down.
Fertilizer: Feed in the early summer with a slow-release fertilizer or weekly with a liquid, blooming fertilizer.
Repotting
Repot as necessary, yearly or biannually. Hibiscus will grow into trees in their native habitats, but this may be unwieldy in a home setting. There’s also some benefit to keeping the Hibiscus in a relatively smaller pot, as it will make for easier pruning and moving. Failure to repot these plants often can leave them in soil without adequate nutrients for their survival, and repotting will often spur on growth if you’re finding that your Hibiscus plants seem to have stalled out. Watch out for falling leaves or other signs of stress.
Propagation
Hibiscus can be propagated with soft-stem cuttings in late spring, when the plant begins to grow again. Use rooting hormone and shelter the cutting from direct sun until it begins to grow. Many gardeners bag their plants, which seals in heat and moisture and increases newly planted cuttings’ chances of surviving. Don’t be discouraged if you can’t propagate your Hibiscus plants right away; it’s a process that takes time, even for experienced gardeners, and upon success you’ll find your new plants all the more rewarding.
Grower’s Tips
Hibiscus should be moved outside in the summer, then back inside during the winter. Tips for a successful transition include:
Trim the plant hard before moving it inside for the winter. It will go into near dormancy until late winter.
After you trim it, but before you bring it in, treat it thoroughly for insects. Neem oil and liquid detergent work well, or use a hose to blast off insects.
Once inside, don’t overwater, but provide as much humidity as possible, including daily mistings. Don’t expose to blowing air from vents.
When the weather warms to above 50ºF (10ºC) at night, move it back outside and acclimate slowly.
Tropical Hibiscus flowers are one of the enduring symbols of the tropics. These much-beloved, large and showy flowers can be grown inside in temperate zones, but it’s not an easy task. The trick with success is twofold: managing the deadly winter, and fending off hungry insects. If you can fall into a rhythm, it’s possible to keep a hibiscus plant thriving for a decade or more, with blooms in the summer.
Growing Conditions
Light: Place outside in the summer, gradually acclimating to more light. In the winter, give as much direct light as possible.
Water: Water freely in the summer, but excellent drainage is a must. Never let the mix become soggy. In the winter, let dry almost completely before watering again.
Temperature: Even a few nights below 50ºF (10ºC) will kill a Hibiscus. Move them inside when the temperature is consistently 55ºF (13ºC). They prefer between 55ºF and 70ºF (13ºC and 21ºC).
Soil: Use a well-drained potting mix. Ensure also that the plant isn’t packed in too tight in order to keep its drainage is good. Poor drainage could rot the plant’s roots and slowly wear it down.
Fertilizer: Feed in the early summer with a slow-release fertilizer or weekly with a liquid, blooming fertilizer.
Repotting
Repot as necessary, yearly or biannually. Hibiscus will grow into trees in their native habitats, but this may be unwieldy in a home setting. There’s also some benefit to keeping the Hibiscus in a relatively smaller pot, as it will make for easier pruning and moving. Failure to repot these plants often can leave them in soil without adequate nutrients for their survival, and repotting will often spur on growth if you’re finding that your Hibiscus plants seem to have stalled out. Watch out for falling leaves or other signs of stress.
Propagation
Hibiscus can be propagated with soft-stem cuttings in late spring, when the plant begins to grow again. Use rooting hormone and shelter the cutting from direct sun until it begins to grow. Many gardeners bag their plants, which seals in heat and moisture and increases newly planted cuttings’ chances of surviving. Don’t be discouraged if you can’t propagate your Hibiscus plants right away; it’s a process that takes time, even for experienced gardeners, and upon success you’ll find your new plants all the more rewarding.
Grower’s Tips
Hibiscus should be moved outside in the summer, then back inside during the winter. Tips for a successful transition include:
Trim the plant hard before moving it inside for the winter. It will go into near dormancy until late winter.
After you trim it, but before you bring it in, treat it thoroughly for insects. Neem oil and liquid detergent work well, or use a hose to blast off insects.
Once inside, don’t overwater, but provide as much humidity as possible, including daily mistings. Don’t expose to blowing air from vents.
When the weather warms to above 50ºF (10ºC) at night, move it back outside and acclimate slowly.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月30日
Plumeria plants, which are also known as Lei Flowers and Frangipani, are actually small trees that are native to tropical regions. The flowers of these beautiful plants are used in making traditional Hawaiian leis. They are highly fragrant and bloom freely from spring throughout fall in multiple colors like white, yellow, pink, and red. These flowers stand out nicely amid the large-leaved foliage, which may be evergreen or deciduous, depending on the type.
Although you don’t have to live in the tropics to grow Plumeria in the home garden, you should be aware of its growing requirements beforehand.
Growing Conditions and General Care
Often grown in the garden as an ornamental shrub or small tree, Plumeria plants need to be grown in well-draining soil that is slightly acidic. They also need at least six hours of full sun.
While the plants are fairly tolerant of both salt and windy conditions, they’re not tolerant of cold and must be protected. Therefore, they should be container grown in colder regions. In areas that may be warm most of the time but still fairly prone to cold winters, the plant can be dug up and overwintered indoors. Alternatively, you can sink container grown Plumerias in the ground, bringing them indoors once the temperatures begin to drop in fall. Once warmer temps return in spring, you can return the plants back outdoors.
When growing Plumeria plants in pots, use a coarse, well-draining potting mix—cactus mix or perlite and sand should be fine.
Plumeria care, for the most part, is minimal. While Plumerias don’t like wet feet, they should be watered deeply when irrigated and then allowed to dry out some before watering again. They also need to be fertilized about every two to three weeks throughout their active growing season. Reduce watering in mid fall and stop completely once the plants enter dormancy in winter. Resume regular watering as new growth appears in spring. A high phosphate (phosphorus) fertilizer, like 10-30-10, will help encourage blooms. Giving them too much nitrogen will only result in more foliage growth and less flowering.
Pruning
Plumerias may be pruned as needed (up to 12 inches from ground) in late winter or early spring (prior to new growth); however, any drastic or hard pruning done may reduce flowering.
Propagation
These plants can also be propagated by seeds or cuttings in spring, with cuttings being the easiest and most preferred method. Insert cuttings about 2 inches in potting mix and water thoroughly.
Although you don’t have to live in the tropics to grow Plumeria in the home garden, you should be aware of its growing requirements beforehand.
Growing Conditions and General Care
Often grown in the garden as an ornamental shrub or small tree, Plumeria plants need to be grown in well-draining soil that is slightly acidic. They also need at least six hours of full sun.
While the plants are fairly tolerant of both salt and windy conditions, they’re not tolerant of cold and must be protected. Therefore, they should be container grown in colder regions. In areas that may be warm most of the time but still fairly prone to cold winters, the plant can be dug up and overwintered indoors. Alternatively, you can sink container grown Plumerias in the ground, bringing them indoors once the temperatures begin to drop in fall. Once warmer temps return in spring, you can return the plants back outdoors.
When growing Plumeria plants in pots, use a coarse, well-draining potting mix—cactus mix or perlite and sand should be fine.
Plumeria care, for the most part, is minimal. While Plumerias don’t like wet feet, they should be watered deeply when irrigated and then allowed to dry out some before watering again. They also need to be fertilized about every two to three weeks throughout their active growing season. Reduce watering in mid fall and stop completely once the plants enter dormancy in winter. Resume regular watering as new growth appears in spring. A high phosphate (phosphorus) fertilizer, like 10-30-10, will help encourage blooms. Giving them too much nitrogen will only result in more foliage growth and less flowering.
Pruning
Plumerias may be pruned as needed (up to 12 inches from ground) in late winter or early spring (prior to new growth); however, any drastic or hard pruning done may reduce flowering.
Propagation
These plants can also be propagated by seeds or cuttings in spring, with cuttings being the easiest and most preferred method. Insert cuttings about 2 inches in potting mix and water thoroughly.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月30日
There are two excellent reasons to grow Abutilon species: the flowers or the blooms. In general, the plants feature deeply lobed leaves reminiscent of maple leaves, although these loose-growing shrubs are in no way related to maple trees. Variegated species are grown for their striking, exotic looking leaves, while flowering species have solid green leaves and lovely, pendant flowers in a variety of colors. Although these aren’t the most common houseplants around, extensive work has been done with a handful of species to produce a variety of beautiful cultivars that are prized for their leaf shape and flower color. In terms of culture, these are not particularly difficult plants to grow and prefer a cooler winter room with less water, then warmth and adequate moisture in the summer. For best results, prune the plants to encourage bushiness.
Growing Conditions
Light: Ideally, Abutilon should receive a few hours of direct sunlight, making an east-facing window the perfect situation throughout the summer. In the winter, you can safely reduce light, but the shortening light cycle will probably be adequate so you don’t need to move the plant.
Water: During the summer growth period, let the soil dry to 1 inch (2.5 cm) between waterings, then give adequate water until it runs through the pot. In the winter, reduce the watering to monthly. It also helps to mist plants weekly or so throughout the winter to prevent pest infections.
Soil: A rich, peat-based potting soil with excellent drainage is beneficial.
Fertilizer: Feed with a weak liquid fertilizer throughout the growing season. Reduce or stop fertilizer entirely in the winter.
Repotting
Abutilon is a relatively fast-growing plant, especially when they’re young. Consequently, younger plants might need to be repotted twice a year, once at the beginning of the growing season and once in the middle. Older plants, however, benefit from being slightly pot-bound, so should be repotted either every other year or yearly into only slightly larger pots. Pot-bound plants tend to grow more vigorously and bloom better.
Propagation
Abutilon propagates easily from stem-tip cuttings. Some experts recommend taking new cuttings every three years or so to start new stock and disposing of older plants. However, with proper pruning, there’s no reason you can’t keep an Abutilon houseplant thriving for many years. A rooting hormone will increase your chances of success. Take cuttings in the spring and place in seed-starting soil in a warm, bright room.
Grower’s Tips
Abutilon is not an especially difficult plant to grow. During warmer, dry winters, they are sometimes affected by spider mites, and they are known for leggy growth. To encourage bushy growth, prune the plant by 25 percent to 40 percent in the late winter, right when new growth is about to start. Also, throughout the summer, occasionally pinch off new growth to encourage healthy growth. When pruning, make sure to stagger your cuts and remove some large branches to open the plant’s canopy. As a final note, these plants dislike acidic soil, so it is not necessary to add additional lime to your potting mix. Instead, stick with the basic peat-based potting soil and make sure to refresh it as the mixture decomposes and becomes more acidic over time.
Growing Conditions
Light: Ideally, Abutilon should receive a few hours of direct sunlight, making an east-facing window the perfect situation throughout the summer. In the winter, you can safely reduce light, but the shortening light cycle will probably be adequate so you don’t need to move the plant.
Water: During the summer growth period, let the soil dry to 1 inch (2.5 cm) between waterings, then give adequate water until it runs through the pot. In the winter, reduce the watering to monthly. It also helps to mist plants weekly or so throughout the winter to prevent pest infections.
Soil: A rich, peat-based potting soil with excellent drainage is beneficial.
Fertilizer: Feed with a weak liquid fertilizer throughout the growing season. Reduce or stop fertilizer entirely in the winter.
Repotting
Abutilon is a relatively fast-growing plant, especially when they’re young. Consequently, younger plants might need to be repotted twice a year, once at the beginning of the growing season and once in the middle. Older plants, however, benefit from being slightly pot-bound, so should be repotted either every other year or yearly into only slightly larger pots. Pot-bound plants tend to grow more vigorously and bloom better.
Propagation
Abutilon propagates easily from stem-tip cuttings. Some experts recommend taking new cuttings every three years or so to start new stock and disposing of older plants. However, with proper pruning, there’s no reason you can’t keep an Abutilon houseplant thriving for many years. A rooting hormone will increase your chances of success. Take cuttings in the spring and place in seed-starting soil in a warm, bright room.
Grower’s Tips
Abutilon is not an especially difficult plant to grow. During warmer, dry winters, they are sometimes affected by spider mites, and they are known for leggy growth. To encourage bushy growth, prune the plant by 25 percent to 40 percent in the late winter, right when new growth is about to start. Also, throughout the summer, occasionally pinch off new growth to encourage healthy growth. When pruning, make sure to stagger your cuts and remove some large branches to open the plant’s canopy. As a final note, these plants dislike acidic soil, so it is not necessary to add additional lime to your potting mix. Instead, stick with the basic peat-based potting soil and make sure to refresh it as the mixture decomposes and becomes more acidic over time.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月30日
The bright orange-to-yellow flowers of Clivia plants add a warm and tropical flair to the landscape. These South African natives produce dark green, sword-shaped leaves that provide a contrasting texture to the foliage of woody evergreen and deciduous plants. Although Clivias grow well in containers in any zone, they thrive when planted outdoors in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 9 through 11. Clivia plants require partial to full shade and fast-draining loamy soils to produce healthy growth.
Growing Conditions and General Cultivation
Spread a 1-inch (2.5-cm) layer of mulch around the Clivia plant with a rake. Keep the mulch 4 to 6 inches (10 to 15 cm) from the base of the plant to avoid rot.
Water the Clivia plant when the top 1 to 2 inches (2.5 to 5 cm) of soil become dry during the active growing season using a garden hose. Keep the soil moist but never soggy. Never water the Clivia to the point that there is standing water on the soil’s surface. Reduce watering in the late fall and winter months when the plant enters dormancy. Water dormant Clivia plants when the top 3 to 5 inches (7.5 to 12.5 cm) of soil becomes dry.
Fertilize the Clivia with a 6-6-6 nitrogen, phosphorous, potassium formulation slow-release fertilizer every three months during the growing season. Apply at a rate of 1 teaspoon per square foot of soil. Spread the fertilizer in a ring around the Clivia plant, keeping the granules 12 inches (30 cm) from its base. Rake the fertilizer into the top 3 inches (7.5 cm) of soil. Water the area thoroughly. Do not apply fertilizer while the plant is dormant.
Deadhead the Clivia plant in the late spring when the flowers are spent. Cut through the base of the flower stalks with a pair of pruning shears. Make the cut 1/4 inch (6 mm) above the point where the flower stalk joins with the main plant. Discard the spent flowers in a trash bin or on top of a compost pile.
Spray the plant’s foliage periodically with a steady stream of water to wash away dust and grime that may attract harmful insects. Wash the leaves in the early morning hours to give the foliage time to dry before nightfall.
Place slug and snail traps around the base of the plant to stop these pests from feeding on its foliage. Spray horticultural oil or insecticidal soap onto foliage infested with aphids, spider mites or scale.
Propagation
Divide the Clivia plant every three to five years. Dig up the plant in the spring, just after it has finished flowering. Dig in a ring around the plant, 12 inches (30 cm) away from its center with a shovel or trowel. Dig down to a depth of 10 inches (25 cm) and undercut the root ball to free it from the soil. Lift the plant from the ground and brush away excess soil. Pull the plant apart, separating individual stems with a healthy portion of the swollen roots. Replant the divisions, spacing multiple plants 18 to 24 inches (45 to 60 cm) apart. Do not plant Clivia plants deeper than they were previously growing. Water the transplanted Clivia plants thoroughly.
Growing Conditions and General Cultivation
Spread a 1-inch (2.5-cm) layer of mulch around the Clivia plant with a rake. Keep the mulch 4 to 6 inches (10 to 15 cm) from the base of the plant to avoid rot.
Water the Clivia plant when the top 1 to 2 inches (2.5 to 5 cm) of soil become dry during the active growing season using a garden hose. Keep the soil moist but never soggy. Never water the Clivia to the point that there is standing water on the soil’s surface. Reduce watering in the late fall and winter months when the plant enters dormancy. Water dormant Clivia plants when the top 3 to 5 inches (7.5 to 12.5 cm) of soil becomes dry.
Fertilize the Clivia with a 6-6-6 nitrogen, phosphorous, potassium formulation slow-release fertilizer every three months during the growing season. Apply at a rate of 1 teaspoon per square foot of soil. Spread the fertilizer in a ring around the Clivia plant, keeping the granules 12 inches (30 cm) from its base. Rake the fertilizer into the top 3 inches (7.5 cm) of soil. Water the area thoroughly. Do not apply fertilizer while the plant is dormant.
Deadhead the Clivia plant in the late spring when the flowers are spent. Cut through the base of the flower stalks with a pair of pruning shears. Make the cut 1/4 inch (6 mm) above the point where the flower stalk joins with the main plant. Discard the spent flowers in a trash bin or on top of a compost pile.
Spray the plant’s foliage periodically with a steady stream of water to wash away dust and grime that may attract harmful insects. Wash the leaves in the early morning hours to give the foliage time to dry before nightfall.
Place slug and snail traps around the base of the plant to stop these pests from feeding on its foliage. Spray horticultural oil or insecticidal soap onto foliage infested with aphids, spider mites or scale.
Propagation
Divide the Clivia plant every three to five years. Dig up the plant in the spring, just after it has finished flowering. Dig in a ring around the plant, 12 inches (30 cm) away from its center with a shovel or trowel. Dig down to a depth of 10 inches (25 cm) and undercut the root ball to free it from the soil. Lift the plant from the ground and brush away excess soil. Pull the plant apart, separating individual stems with a healthy portion of the swollen roots. Replant the divisions, spacing multiple plants 18 to 24 inches (45 to 60 cm) apart. Do not plant Clivia plants deeper than they were previously growing. Water the transplanted Clivia plants thoroughly.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月30日
Including the lipstick vine and basket vine, the Aeschynanthus genus includes remarkable hanging plants with showy red, orange or yellow terminal flowers that emerge from “tubes” which resemble lipstick cases. Better suited to its native rainforest habitat, Aeschynanthus presents a challenge for the indoor gardener. They generally require high humidity and warmth during the summer months, followed by a brief period of cold during the winter to stimulate a bloom.
Growing Conditions
Light: Bright, strong light, but not direct sunshine.
Water: Keep soil continuously moist throughout spring and summer, and reduce watering in the winter. Don’t let it completely dry out. Very high humidity is preferred. If you’re growing in a basket, you will need to water more frequently during the growing season. However, the exact watering schedule will be party determined by your humidity levels, temperature, and choice of potting media.
Temperature: Keep it warm and humid in the spring and summer, above 65ºF (18ºC). In the winter, a brief period of 55 to 65ºF (13 to 18ºC) will cause inflorescence.
Soil: A well-drained potting mix is best. Avoid heavy garden soils, especially if you’re growing the plant in a hanging basket. In general, the lighter the mix, the better, but keep in mind that very light mixes will drain faster and require more frequently watering. Also, it’s a good idea to repot your hanging plants more frequently, as they soil in a hanging basket tends to become exhausted faster than soil in pots.
Fertilizer: When new growth appears in the spring, feed with a controlled-release fertilizer or liquid fertilizer according to label directions. Liquid fertilizers are often best for hanging applications, because they provide a steady supply of food. However, for best effect, make sure to use the fertilizer with every application during the growing season. If it will be challenging to stick to this schedule, sprinkle the soil surface with a good controlled-release fertilizer at the beginning of the growing season.
Repotting
Repotting depends on your container choice. For hanging plants, you should repot in the beginning of every growing season. You can keep the plant in the same basket year after year, but you’ll still need to refresh the soil and, if the plant has become too large, divide it. You can pot the division up separately. If you’re growing in a container, repot either annually or every other year, depending on the size of the plant.
Propagation
Take cuttings in the spring, when the plant resumes normal growth. To successfully root cuttings, use a rooting hormone and provide bottom heat or use a covered rooting container. Take a cutting with several leaves and a length of stem. Strip away the bottom one or two sets of leaves to expose one or two growing nodes. Dip these into rooting hormone (if you’re using it), then bury the cutting and the exposed nodes into a clean potting mix. You can use a seedling mix if you have some on hand. Keep the cutting in a bright, warm place with high humidity. When you start to see new growth, you’ll know the cutting has rooted. Wait until the plant has put out several sets of new leaves before repotting to a more permanent container.
Grower’s Tips
Aeschynanthus are perfect as hanging or trailing plants. They require high humidity and warmth throughout the growing season, as well as strong (but not direct) light. After the season is over, cut the trailing stems back in preparation for another year—otherwise, it will tend toward leginess. Do not spray plants in bloom. These are perfect for a greenhouse, sunroom or conservatory.
Growing Conditions
Light: Bright, strong light, but not direct sunshine.
Water: Keep soil continuously moist throughout spring and summer, and reduce watering in the winter. Don’t let it completely dry out. Very high humidity is preferred. If you’re growing in a basket, you will need to water more frequently during the growing season. However, the exact watering schedule will be party determined by your humidity levels, temperature, and choice of potting media.
Temperature: Keep it warm and humid in the spring and summer, above 65ºF (18ºC). In the winter, a brief period of 55 to 65ºF (13 to 18ºC) will cause inflorescence.
Soil: A well-drained potting mix is best. Avoid heavy garden soils, especially if you’re growing the plant in a hanging basket. In general, the lighter the mix, the better, but keep in mind that very light mixes will drain faster and require more frequently watering. Also, it’s a good idea to repot your hanging plants more frequently, as they soil in a hanging basket tends to become exhausted faster than soil in pots.
Fertilizer: When new growth appears in the spring, feed with a controlled-release fertilizer or liquid fertilizer according to label directions. Liquid fertilizers are often best for hanging applications, because they provide a steady supply of food. However, for best effect, make sure to use the fertilizer with every application during the growing season. If it will be challenging to stick to this schedule, sprinkle the soil surface with a good controlled-release fertilizer at the beginning of the growing season.
Repotting
Repotting depends on your container choice. For hanging plants, you should repot in the beginning of every growing season. You can keep the plant in the same basket year after year, but you’ll still need to refresh the soil and, if the plant has become too large, divide it. You can pot the division up separately. If you’re growing in a container, repot either annually or every other year, depending on the size of the plant.
Propagation
Take cuttings in the spring, when the plant resumes normal growth. To successfully root cuttings, use a rooting hormone and provide bottom heat or use a covered rooting container. Take a cutting with several leaves and a length of stem. Strip away the bottom one or two sets of leaves to expose one or two growing nodes. Dip these into rooting hormone (if you’re using it), then bury the cutting and the exposed nodes into a clean potting mix. You can use a seedling mix if you have some on hand. Keep the cutting in a bright, warm place with high humidity. When you start to see new growth, you’ll know the cutting has rooted. Wait until the plant has put out several sets of new leaves before repotting to a more permanent container.
Grower’s Tips
Aeschynanthus are perfect as hanging or trailing plants. They require high humidity and warmth throughout the growing season, as well as strong (but not direct) light. After the season is over, cut the trailing stems back in preparation for another year—otherwise, it will tend toward leginess. Do not spray plants in bloom. These are perfect for a greenhouse, sunroom or conservatory.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月30日
In cold climates, Snowdrops (Galanthus) are often the first flowers to bloom – and a welcome sight they are. Their tiny, drooping flowers and grass-like foliage give the plant the appearance of delicacy, but Snowdrops are hardy plants, often poking up and blooming despite the snow remaining on the ground.
Snowdrops may take a while to naturalize in your garden or yard, but eventually you’ll see them popping up in places you’re sure you never planted them. They can hybridize between species, so expect surprises.
Growing Conditions
Light: Full sun to partial shade. Heat will shorten their bloom period and will cause them to wilt and go into dormancy.
Water: Water well and keep watering weekly, until the ground has frozen. They won’t sprout until next spring, but they are growing roots.
Hardiness Zone: USDA Hardiness Zones 3 – 8, depending on species.
Soil: Snowdrops like a neutral to slightly alkaline soil pH and a rich but well draining soil.
Fertilizer: If your soil is lean, you may want to consider a bulb fertilizer after flowering.
Propagation
Snowdrops can be started from seed, but since they hybridize easily, they won’t come true from seed.
Plant the bulbs point up, about 3 to 5 inches (7.5 to 12.5 cm) apart and about 2 inches (5 cm) deep, in heavy soil; 4 to 6 inches (10 to 15 cm) in sandy soil. Actually, if you dig a wide hole, you can just scatter the bulbs, or scatter them on the surface and poke them in, if the soil is soft enough. Try not to crowd them too much, or you’ll be dividing them sooner.
Pests and Diseases
Luckily there aren’t a lot of pest out when snowdrops bloom. However snails and slugs will eat their leaves, later in the spring. The good news is Snowdrops are resistant to deer, rabbits ad even groundhogs.
Snowdrops can also be prone to fungal diseases, especially gray mold (botrytis). Good air circulation and well draining soil will usually prevent problems.
Grower’s Tips
Snowdrops need some sunlight to bloom, but too much sun will ‘melt’ them – cause them to whither away. The dappled shade of a deciduous tree, before it has leafed out in the early spring, is perfect.
Purchased Snowdrops are planted in the fall, but if a friend lifts some for you in the spring, before the leaves have started to decline, they should take fine, too. Either way, plant them immediately.
After flowering in the spring, let the foliage die back naturally. Snowdrops don’t linger long, like daffodils or tulips. They’ll disappear before you know it. Mark the area, so you don’t accidentally dig the bulbs when planting something else, later in the season. In dry seasons, water periodically throughout the summer. For the most part, Snowdrops will take care of themselves.
Large, established clumps may eventually have less blooms. At that point, you should consider digging them and dividing the clumps. Do this after flowering. The bulbs are small, but plump, and will break apart easily. Replant immediately.
It is possible to grow your Snowdrops in containers. You can squeeze them in quite close, but they’ll still need to be at least 2 to 3 inches (5 to 7.5 cm) deep. In USDA Zones 5 – 6, your containers may need some winter protection.
Since Snowdrops take a few years to become established, they are not often recommended for forcing.
Snowdrops may take a while to naturalize in your garden or yard, but eventually you’ll see them popping up in places you’re sure you never planted them. They can hybridize between species, so expect surprises.
Growing Conditions
Light: Full sun to partial shade. Heat will shorten their bloom period and will cause them to wilt and go into dormancy.
Water: Water well and keep watering weekly, until the ground has frozen. They won’t sprout until next spring, but they are growing roots.
Hardiness Zone: USDA Hardiness Zones 3 – 8, depending on species.
Soil: Snowdrops like a neutral to slightly alkaline soil pH and a rich but well draining soil.
Fertilizer: If your soil is lean, you may want to consider a bulb fertilizer after flowering.
Propagation
Snowdrops can be started from seed, but since they hybridize easily, they won’t come true from seed.
Plant the bulbs point up, about 3 to 5 inches (7.5 to 12.5 cm) apart and about 2 inches (5 cm) deep, in heavy soil; 4 to 6 inches (10 to 15 cm) in sandy soil. Actually, if you dig a wide hole, you can just scatter the bulbs, or scatter them on the surface and poke them in, if the soil is soft enough. Try not to crowd them too much, or you’ll be dividing them sooner.
Pests and Diseases
Luckily there aren’t a lot of pest out when snowdrops bloom. However snails and slugs will eat their leaves, later in the spring. The good news is Snowdrops are resistant to deer, rabbits ad even groundhogs.
Snowdrops can also be prone to fungal diseases, especially gray mold (botrytis). Good air circulation and well draining soil will usually prevent problems.
Grower’s Tips
Snowdrops need some sunlight to bloom, but too much sun will ‘melt’ them – cause them to whither away. The dappled shade of a deciduous tree, before it has leafed out in the early spring, is perfect.
Purchased Snowdrops are planted in the fall, but if a friend lifts some for you in the spring, before the leaves have started to decline, they should take fine, too. Either way, plant them immediately.
After flowering in the spring, let the foliage die back naturally. Snowdrops don’t linger long, like daffodils or tulips. They’ll disappear before you know it. Mark the area, so you don’t accidentally dig the bulbs when planting something else, later in the season. In dry seasons, water periodically throughout the summer. For the most part, Snowdrops will take care of themselves.
Large, established clumps may eventually have less blooms. At that point, you should consider digging them and dividing the clumps. Do this after flowering. The bulbs are small, but plump, and will break apart easily. Replant immediately.
It is possible to grow your Snowdrops in containers. You can squeeze them in quite close, but they’ll still need to be at least 2 to 3 inches (5 to 7.5 cm) deep. In USDA Zones 5 – 6, your containers may need some winter protection.
Since Snowdrops take a few years to become established, they are not often recommended for forcing.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月30日
There are over 2,000 species of Psychotria, the genus under which Hot Lips falls. Where does Hot lips Grow? Psychotria elata is part of the tropical rainforest understory flora of the Americas. It is a unique plant with uninteresting flowers but fabulous lip-like bracts. The plant can be difficult to grow and has very special cultivation conditions.
Hot Lips grows as a shrub or small tree. The plant has deeply veined simple leaves of matte green. The flower is actually a pair of modified leaves that pout around the tiny star-like white to cream flowers. These become small bluish-black berries. The plant is very attractive to butterflies and hummingbirds. Unfortunately, the plant is severely threatened due to habitat destruction and development. It is nearly impossible to get the plant or seeds. It is a common gift plant in Central America, however, usually for Valentine’s Day.
Hot Lips plant is also called Hooker’s Lips but Hot Lips is a little more family friendly. Interestingly, this plant contains the chemical dimethyltryptamine, a psychedelic. It is also used as traditional medicine among the Amazon people to treat aches and arthritis, infertility and impotency.
Growing Conditions and General Cultivation
Hot Lips plant is from Central and South America, especially in areas like Columbia, Ecuador, Costa Rica and Panama. It grows where the soil is rich and humid from leaf litter, moist and sheltered from the most powerful sun rays by upper story trees.
Interior growers turn to plants from around the world to add exotic touches to the home. Hot Lips plant fits the bill but requires a tropical environment. For this reason, it is mostly a collector’s plant for much of the United States. Growing Hot Lips plants requires a heated greenhouse or solarium, high humidity and shelter from harsh solar rays.
Growing Hot Lips plant means mimicking the understory tropical environment for which it is suited. Most potting soil will not have both the excellent drainage and moisture retentiveness necessary to raise these plants. Add a bit of vermiculite and peat moss before potting up the plant.
Place it in an area with temperatures of at least 70ºF (21ºC), humidity of at least 60% and indirect bright lighting.
Hot Lips grows as a shrub or small tree. The plant has deeply veined simple leaves of matte green. The flower is actually a pair of modified leaves that pout around the tiny star-like white to cream flowers. These become small bluish-black berries. The plant is very attractive to butterflies and hummingbirds. Unfortunately, the plant is severely threatened due to habitat destruction and development. It is nearly impossible to get the plant or seeds. It is a common gift plant in Central America, however, usually for Valentine’s Day.
Hot Lips plant is also called Hooker’s Lips but Hot Lips is a little more family friendly. Interestingly, this plant contains the chemical dimethyltryptamine, a psychedelic. It is also used as traditional medicine among the Amazon people to treat aches and arthritis, infertility and impotency.
Growing Conditions and General Cultivation
Hot Lips plant is from Central and South America, especially in areas like Columbia, Ecuador, Costa Rica and Panama. It grows where the soil is rich and humid from leaf litter, moist and sheltered from the most powerful sun rays by upper story trees.
Interior growers turn to plants from around the world to add exotic touches to the home. Hot Lips plant fits the bill but requires a tropical environment. For this reason, it is mostly a collector’s plant for much of the United States. Growing Hot Lips plants requires a heated greenhouse or solarium, high humidity and shelter from harsh solar rays.
Growing Hot Lips plant means mimicking the understory tropical environment for which it is suited. Most potting soil will not have both the excellent drainage and moisture retentiveness necessary to raise these plants. Add a bit of vermiculite and peat moss before potting up the plant.
Place it in an area with temperatures of at least 70ºF (21ºC), humidity of at least 60% and indirect bright lighting.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月30日
Calliandra, commonly known as Powder Puff plants, are fairly common landscape plants in the tropics and subtropics. There, they are grown as small trees with woody stems and especially prized for their profuse displays of red “powder puff” flowers that blanket the tree every year. The puffs are actually the stamens of the flowers, and they really are beautiful. Indoors, these plants are kept smaller by necessity and, under the right conditions, can be coaxed into winter blooms or year-round blooms. Even though they are somewhat drought tolerant, they are not especially easy to bring to bloom inside. They are sensitive to cold, dry air, which perfectly describes the conditions in many homes. Even if the plant doesn’t bloom, however, its fern-like, segmented leaves are drooping and beautiful.
Growing Conditions
Light: Calliandra needs bright light-especially indoors, the more the better. During the height of the growing season, they might need protection from direct sunlight that is magnified by windowglass, but generally for the rest of the year, they like very bright, direct light.
Water: During the growth season, water frequently and never allow potting soil to dry out. You can reduce watering somewhat during the winter, but because the most common species is a winter-bloomer, you never want to completely suspend watering.
Soil: A rich, peat-based potting soil with excellent drainage is beneficial.
Fertilizer: Feed with a weak liquid fertilizer throughout the growing season. Cut fertilizer back to once a month or so in the winter.
Repotting
Repot in the early spring (when you take cuttings). In their native habitat, Powder Puff plants grow to medium-sized shrubs or small trees, depending on the year-round conditions and species. Indoors, they won’t become that large, but if your plant is very healthy and thriving, it can easily outgrow your pot and overpower the space. To keep it smaller, only repot every other year.
Propagation
Powder Puffs can be relatively easily sprouted from stem cuttings. During the spring, when new growth emerges and the winter bloom (if there is one) has faded, take a cutting and pot it in seed-starting soil. Rooting hormone and bottom heat increase your chances of success. These are not especially fast-growing plants, so don’t expect a bloom that first year.
Grower’s Tips
Powder Puff plants are not especially difficult to grow indoors, but it can be tricky coaxing them to bloom. They prefer regular moisture, high humidity, bright light and high temperatures. In the absence of these conditions, they will not grow as vigorously and will likely not bloom at all. If you have a conservatory or sunroom, you’ll likely have more success. Powder Puffs are not especially susceptible to pests, but will sometimes suffer from infestations of mealybugs, aphids, and mites. Signs of infestation include tiny webs on plants, clumps of white “powdery” residue, or visible insects on the plant. Treat infestations as soon as possible to prevent them from spreading to the rest of your collection. As always, start with the least toxic treatment option first, only progressing to more serious chemicals if your initial efforts fail.
Growing Conditions
Light: Calliandra needs bright light-especially indoors, the more the better. During the height of the growing season, they might need protection from direct sunlight that is magnified by windowglass, but generally for the rest of the year, they like very bright, direct light.
Water: During the growth season, water frequently and never allow potting soil to dry out. You can reduce watering somewhat during the winter, but because the most common species is a winter-bloomer, you never want to completely suspend watering.
Soil: A rich, peat-based potting soil with excellent drainage is beneficial.
Fertilizer: Feed with a weak liquid fertilizer throughout the growing season. Cut fertilizer back to once a month or so in the winter.
Repotting
Repot in the early spring (when you take cuttings). In their native habitat, Powder Puff plants grow to medium-sized shrubs or small trees, depending on the year-round conditions and species. Indoors, they won’t become that large, but if your plant is very healthy and thriving, it can easily outgrow your pot and overpower the space. To keep it smaller, only repot every other year.
Propagation
Powder Puffs can be relatively easily sprouted from stem cuttings. During the spring, when new growth emerges and the winter bloom (if there is one) has faded, take a cutting and pot it in seed-starting soil. Rooting hormone and bottom heat increase your chances of success. These are not especially fast-growing plants, so don’t expect a bloom that first year.
Grower’s Tips
Powder Puff plants are not especially difficult to grow indoors, but it can be tricky coaxing them to bloom. They prefer regular moisture, high humidity, bright light and high temperatures. In the absence of these conditions, they will not grow as vigorously and will likely not bloom at all. If you have a conservatory or sunroom, you’ll likely have more success. Powder Puffs are not especially susceptible to pests, but will sometimes suffer from infestations of mealybugs, aphids, and mites. Signs of infestation include tiny webs on plants, clumps of white “powdery” residue, or visible insects on the plant. Treat infestations as soon as possible to prevent them from spreading to the rest of your collection. As always, start with the least toxic treatment option first, only progressing to more serious chemicals if your initial efforts fail.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月30日
The genus Aquilegia, also known as Columbine plants are easy-to-grow perennials that offers seasonal interest throughout much of the year. Aquilegia‘s bell-shaped flowers are popular with hummingbirds, bees and gardeners. The mid-spring blooms fill the void between early spring bulbs and peak garden season. They are associated with woodland gardens, but most are widely adaptable. Many of the species are native to areas throughout North America, from Canada to Texas.
Most varieties of Columbine will bloom for at least 4 weeks. They are tougher plants than they appear, but they tend to be short-lived perennials. However they will seed and spread, remaining in your garden for years.
Columbine plants have an airy appearance, with small, rounded leaves and tall flower stalks that hold the blooms above the foliage. Flat fans of oval dark green leaves that turn red in the fall. Each dangling, bell-shaped flower has 5 petals that flare out from the base, surrounded by a collar of 5 larger sepals. The long, nectar holding spurs arch backward out of the flowers.
Growing Conditions
Light: While they enjoy full sun in most areas, they don’t like it very hot, especially during summer. Therefore, in warmer areas like the south, grow them in partial shade.
Water: Keep the plants moist following columbine planting until well established. Then only weekly watering is necessary with exception to extended periods of drought in which they will require additional watering.
Fertilizer: Provide a water soluble fertilizer monthly. Regular fertilizing will help produce brighter blooms and thicker foliage.
Soil: Columbine plants aren’t too particular about soil as long it’s well draining and not too dry.
Planting
You can start Columbine from seed or plant. Seeds can be direct sown throughout spring. The seeds need light to germinate, so simply press them on the soil surface and barely cover with soil. Since Columbine is a perennial, it will take 2 years from planting seed, for them to bloom.
If you are starting your seeds indoors, they will do better with some pre-chilling. Place the seeds in the refrigerator in a plastic bag with some damp potting soil, 8-12 weeks before your last frost date. Then pot them up and move them to a warmer spot.
Columbine plants should be planted with their crown at soil level. Water well and mulch. New plants will need to be kept moist, until they become established. You’ll know when they start putting out a lot of new growth. Even then, keep your Columbine well water during dry spells.
Pests and Diseases
Aphids, Caterpillars and Leaf miners – Leaf miners are by far the biggest problem. They tunnel inside the leaves and can quickly make an unsightly mess. Shearing the plants, after blooming, will usually avoid the problem. Since Columbine doesn’t not usually rebloom shearing is the best way to control insect problems. The leaves will eventually fill back in.
Grower’s Tips
Columbnie plants can handle full sun. It’s the combination of heat and dry soil they don’t like and mulching will help alleviate that. They will self-sow, but new plants can be lost if the summer gets to hot. Also, plants tend to be short lived, fading out within 3 years. Hedge your bets and save some seed to sow in the fall or falling spring.
Keep in mind that Columbine varieties readily cross pollinate. If you plant more than one variety, be prepared to see new colors and combinations.
If self-sowing becomes a nuisance, shear the plants back in mid-summer, to prevent seed pods from forming.
Most varieties of Columbine will bloom for at least 4 weeks. They are tougher plants than they appear, but they tend to be short-lived perennials. However they will seed and spread, remaining in your garden for years.
Columbine plants have an airy appearance, with small, rounded leaves and tall flower stalks that hold the blooms above the foliage. Flat fans of oval dark green leaves that turn red in the fall. Each dangling, bell-shaped flower has 5 petals that flare out from the base, surrounded by a collar of 5 larger sepals. The long, nectar holding spurs arch backward out of the flowers.
Growing Conditions
Light: While they enjoy full sun in most areas, they don’t like it very hot, especially during summer. Therefore, in warmer areas like the south, grow them in partial shade.
Water: Keep the plants moist following columbine planting until well established. Then only weekly watering is necessary with exception to extended periods of drought in which they will require additional watering.
Fertilizer: Provide a water soluble fertilizer monthly. Regular fertilizing will help produce brighter blooms and thicker foliage.
Soil: Columbine plants aren’t too particular about soil as long it’s well draining and not too dry.
Planting
You can start Columbine from seed or plant. Seeds can be direct sown throughout spring. The seeds need light to germinate, so simply press them on the soil surface and barely cover with soil. Since Columbine is a perennial, it will take 2 years from planting seed, for them to bloom.
If you are starting your seeds indoors, they will do better with some pre-chilling. Place the seeds in the refrigerator in a plastic bag with some damp potting soil, 8-12 weeks before your last frost date. Then pot them up and move them to a warmer spot.
Columbine plants should be planted with their crown at soil level. Water well and mulch. New plants will need to be kept moist, until they become established. You’ll know when they start putting out a lot of new growth. Even then, keep your Columbine well water during dry spells.
Pests and Diseases
Aphids, Caterpillars and Leaf miners – Leaf miners are by far the biggest problem. They tunnel inside the leaves and can quickly make an unsightly mess. Shearing the plants, after blooming, will usually avoid the problem. Since Columbine doesn’t not usually rebloom shearing is the best way to control insect problems. The leaves will eventually fill back in.
Grower’s Tips
Columbnie plants can handle full sun. It’s the combination of heat and dry soil they don’t like and mulching will help alleviate that. They will self-sow, but new plants can be lost if the summer gets to hot. Also, plants tend to be short lived, fading out within 3 years. Hedge your bets and save some seed to sow in the fall or falling spring.
Keep in mind that Columbine varieties readily cross pollinate. If you plant more than one variety, be prepared to see new colors and combinations.
If self-sowing becomes a nuisance, shear the plants back in mid-summer, to prevent seed pods from forming.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月30日
Delicate, pendant flowers of Lily of the Valley (Convallaria majalis) line up along gracefully arching stems in mid-spring. The white or pink blooms are small and waxy, with a cherished fragrance that is irresistible; if you pull up gently on the stems, you will have lovely, long flower spikes to enjoy in a vase, preferably at nose level.
Easily grown, these small plants will take a couple of years to establish and may not flower the first year. But their creeping rhizomes will soon spread rapidly, making an ideal ground cover even under large trees. These hardy perennials thrive in zones 3 through 7, but labor in the South. Plants will keep spreading, so you may want to locate them in a contained area.
Growing Conditions
Light: Plant in a mostly shaded to partially shaded area (morning sun only).
Water: The plants like moist soil . Water plants in dry weather.
Soil: Grow it in a well-drained, loamy soil enriched with humus.
Fertilizer: Like any plant, they will grow better if fertilized. Do so in early spring, and again after the blooms have died off.
Pruning
Leaves may become tattered and unattractive toward the end of the growing season; simply cut back to ground level. If left intact, the deciduous leaves turn a lovely golden hue in the fall, accompanied by colorful (but inedible) orange berries.
Propagation
Lily of the Valley can be propagated from seed or their rhizomes. Seeds can take months to germinate. So, most people propagate them using the rhizomes. Dig up rhizomes of established plants in the Fall, and separate into clumps for re-planting.
Pests and Diseases
These plants are generally quite healthy and vigorous. Fungal leaf spotting may occur but is usually minor. Remove any affected foliage and destroy. Occasionally weevils will feed on the leaves, making small notches along the edges, but damage is usually insignificant.
Grower’s Tips
Despite its temperamental reputation, Lily of the Valley is easy to grow if you buy it ready potted in spring. Dried crowns take ages to get going and do not always survive and it may also prove difficult to establish chunks supplied by friends. In both cases, pot up the crowns separately in loam-based compost, water well and allow them to establish for a year before planting out. (You can do the same in midwinter, forcing the crowns for an early show indoors.) At planting time, work in some humus, good garden compost or, even better, leafmould. Spread out any underground stems and cover with just a couple of inches of the planting mixture. Mulch well with leafmould. If you find that flowering is poor, an occasional dose of high-potash organic liquid feed may help.
Easily grown, these small plants will take a couple of years to establish and may not flower the first year. But their creeping rhizomes will soon spread rapidly, making an ideal ground cover even under large trees. These hardy perennials thrive in zones 3 through 7, but labor in the South. Plants will keep spreading, so you may want to locate them in a contained area.
Growing Conditions
Light: Plant in a mostly shaded to partially shaded area (morning sun only).
Water: The plants like moist soil . Water plants in dry weather.
Soil: Grow it in a well-drained, loamy soil enriched with humus.
Fertilizer: Like any plant, they will grow better if fertilized. Do so in early spring, and again after the blooms have died off.
Pruning
Leaves may become tattered and unattractive toward the end of the growing season; simply cut back to ground level. If left intact, the deciduous leaves turn a lovely golden hue in the fall, accompanied by colorful (but inedible) orange berries.
Propagation
Lily of the Valley can be propagated from seed or their rhizomes. Seeds can take months to germinate. So, most people propagate them using the rhizomes. Dig up rhizomes of established plants in the Fall, and separate into clumps for re-planting.
Pests and Diseases
These plants are generally quite healthy and vigorous. Fungal leaf spotting may occur but is usually minor. Remove any affected foliage and destroy. Occasionally weevils will feed on the leaves, making small notches along the edges, but damage is usually insignificant.
Grower’s Tips
Despite its temperamental reputation, Lily of the Valley is easy to grow if you buy it ready potted in spring. Dried crowns take ages to get going and do not always survive and it may also prove difficult to establish chunks supplied by friends. In both cases, pot up the crowns separately in loam-based compost, water well and allow them to establish for a year before planting out. (You can do the same in midwinter, forcing the crowns for an early show indoors.) At planting time, work in some humus, good garden compost or, even better, leafmould. Spread out any underground stems and cover with just a couple of inches of the planting mixture. Mulch well with leafmould. If you find that flowering is poor, an occasional dose of high-potash organic liquid feed may help.
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