文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月27日
Calceolaria, commonly known as Pocketbook Plants, Pouch Flowers or Slipper Flowers is a genus of plants in the Calceolariaceae family. This genus consists of about 388 species of shrubs, lianas and herbs, and the geographical range extends from Patagonia to central Mexico, with its distribution center in Andean region.
Calceolaria’s nickname (Pocketbook Plant) is well chosen. The flowers on this annual plant have pouches at the bottom which resemble pocketbooks, purses or even slippers. Growing Pocketbook Plants isn’t very complicated as long as you remember that they like their environment cool and not too bright.
Growing Conditions and General Care
While this annual can be grown both indoors and out, the most popular use may be as a potted houseplant. Once you look into the native environment for this bright flower, you’ll know how to grow Pocketbook Plant. It comes from Central and South America in the cooler plains areas where water and bright sunlight aren’t so abundant. Calceolaria care works best when you try to imitate its native home.
Keep the plant near a bright window, but out of direct sunlight. If your only window is on a bright southern exposure, hang a sheer curtain between the plant and outdoors to filter the brightest rays. Northern windows and tables away from the light source are more hospitable for these plants.
Pocketbook Plant care includes carefully monitoring the water supply. These plants don’t do well with too much moisture on their roots. Give the plants a thorough watering, then let the pots drain in the sink for about 10 minutes. Allow the soil to dry out until the surface is dry before watering again.
Although pocketbook plant is a tender perennial, it’s grown as an annual. Once the flowers die off, you won’t be able to make a new batch appear. It’s better to simply enjoy these unusual flowers while they look good, then add them to the compost pile when they begin to dry up and wilt.
Although pocketbook plant is most often grown as a houseplant, it can be used as a bedding plant outdoors. This smaller plant can grow up to 10 inches (25 cm) tall, so place it near the front of the flower beds. Amend the soil with a good amount of compost to aid in drainage, and place the plants about a foot apart. Grow these plants early in the spring, when the night temperatures hover around 55 to 65 °F (13 to 18 °C). When the summer heat arrives, pull them and replace them with a more heat-resistant plant.
Propagation
Many different types are available as seeds, with gaudy color mixes being the norm. Sow seed in a peat based compost in late summer, and grow the young seedling on through until late autumn. The plants soon develop the rosette of foliage and will need space.
Pocketbook Plants can also be propagated with stem tip cuttings which should be taken in mid to late summer.
Calceolaria’s nickname (Pocketbook Plant) is well chosen. The flowers on this annual plant have pouches at the bottom which resemble pocketbooks, purses or even slippers. Growing Pocketbook Plants isn’t very complicated as long as you remember that they like their environment cool and not too bright.
Growing Conditions and General Care
While this annual can be grown both indoors and out, the most popular use may be as a potted houseplant. Once you look into the native environment for this bright flower, you’ll know how to grow Pocketbook Plant. It comes from Central and South America in the cooler plains areas where water and bright sunlight aren’t so abundant. Calceolaria care works best when you try to imitate its native home.
Keep the plant near a bright window, but out of direct sunlight. If your only window is on a bright southern exposure, hang a sheer curtain between the plant and outdoors to filter the brightest rays. Northern windows and tables away from the light source are more hospitable for these plants.
Pocketbook Plant care includes carefully monitoring the water supply. These plants don’t do well with too much moisture on their roots. Give the plants a thorough watering, then let the pots drain in the sink for about 10 minutes. Allow the soil to dry out until the surface is dry before watering again.
Although pocketbook plant is a tender perennial, it’s grown as an annual. Once the flowers die off, you won’t be able to make a new batch appear. It’s better to simply enjoy these unusual flowers while they look good, then add them to the compost pile when they begin to dry up and wilt.
Although pocketbook plant is most often grown as a houseplant, it can be used as a bedding plant outdoors. This smaller plant can grow up to 10 inches (25 cm) tall, so place it near the front of the flower beds. Amend the soil with a good amount of compost to aid in drainage, and place the plants about a foot apart. Grow these plants early in the spring, when the night temperatures hover around 55 to 65 °F (13 to 18 °C). When the summer heat arrives, pull them and replace them with a more heat-resistant plant.
Propagation
Many different types are available as seeds, with gaudy color mixes being the norm. Sow seed in a peat based compost in late summer, and grow the young seedling on through until late autumn. The plants soon develop the rosette of foliage and will need space.
Pocketbook Plants can also be propagated with stem tip cuttings which should be taken in mid to late summer.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月27日
Catharanthus roseus, also known as Madagascar Periwinkle is a pretty blooming plant with delicate pink-white flowers that bloom throughout the summer, even under drought and low-water conditions. This perennial Madagascar native thrives in the summer heat of U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 9 through 11 and does not tolerate frost. The plant is easy to grow and self-cleaning, making for practically care-free blooming until Thanksgiving in warm regions.
Madagascar Periwinkle is native to Madagascar but is cultivated and naturalized in most of the tropical world and in warmer climates in the United States. It can be found in a variety of woodland, forest and grassland locales, but one of its primary uses is a bedding plant in highway medians or commercial landscapes.
Madagascar Periwinkle also makes a striking clumping plant for home gardens as ground cover, in beddings or edgings or in containers.
Growing Conditions and General Care
Unlike many other plants, Madagascar Periwinkle is best suited for poor, well-drained soil and may even fail to thrive in soils that are too fertile. These plants need regular moisture but don’t do well with overhead watering.
Madagascar Periwinkle is easily propagated with semi-ripe cuttings planted in light compost with bottom heat and high humidity, or by seeds kept in the dark at 71 to 77 degrees Fahrenheit (22 to 25 degrees Celsius) until germination.
The leaves may curl during the heat of the day but recover with evening dew. The flowers drop off after blooming and don’t require deadheading.
Madagascar Periwinkle is generally resistant to serious outbreaks of diseases and pests. Stem rot, leaf spots, wilts and aster yellows are some of the more common pathogens. Typical pest infestations come from aphids, spider mites and whiteflies. Diseases, which usually present as discolorations or spots, can be controlled by using certified disease-free plants and avoiding overwatering. Pests can be prevented by avoiding high levels of nitrogen fertilizer and the overuse of pesticides that also kill beneficial insects.
Madagascar Periwinkle is native to Madagascar but is cultivated and naturalized in most of the tropical world and in warmer climates in the United States. It can be found in a variety of woodland, forest and grassland locales, but one of its primary uses is a bedding plant in highway medians or commercial landscapes.
Madagascar Periwinkle also makes a striking clumping plant for home gardens as ground cover, in beddings or edgings or in containers.
Growing Conditions and General Care
Unlike many other plants, Madagascar Periwinkle is best suited for poor, well-drained soil and may even fail to thrive in soils that are too fertile. These plants need regular moisture but don’t do well with overhead watering.
Madagascar Periwinkle is easily propagated with semi-ripe cuttings planted in light compost with bottom heat and high humidity, or by seeds kept in the dark at 71 to 77 degrees Fahrenheit (22 to 25 degrees Celsius) until germination.
The leaves may curl during the heat of the day but recover with evening dew. The flowers drop off after blooming and don’t require deadheading.
Madagascar Periwinkle is generally resistant to serious outbreaks of diseases and pests. Stem rot, leaf spots, wilts and aster yellows are some of the more common pathogens. Typical pest infestations come from aphids, spider mites and whiteflies. Diseases, which usually present as discolorations or spots, can be controlled by using certified disease-free plants and avoiding overwatering. Pests can be prevented by avoiding high levels of nitrogen fertilizer and the overuse of pesticides that also kill beneficial insects.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月27日
Wisteria is the quintessential climber for the English cottage garden. A well-grown Wisteria is an absolute joy in mid-late spring when the beautiful, scented pendants of flowers drape from the branches in a breathtaking display. But often gardeners find these climbing plants a little daunting. The idea of all that pruning and training just feels far too complicated. It’s a shame because it’s not as tricky as you might think – in fact Wisteria is actually very easy to grow. With correct care these long-lived twining climbers will reward you with many years of pleasure in your garden.
Growing Conditions and General Care
The most important factor to consider when growing Wisteria is location. Wisteria is a twining vine that requires sturdy support and regular pruning to keep it under control. Open areas surrounded by lawn that can be easily mowed are ideal for growing Wisteria.
Wisteria doesn’t fair well in cold so make sure it receives plenty of sunlight.
This vine requires deep, rich soil that is somewhat moist but will tolerate many soil conditions.
Once planted, pruning is about the only important requirement for Wisteria vine care. Since this vine is an aggressive grower, there’s no need for fertilizing and being drought tolerant, Wisteria requires little watering.
Pruning and Training
While Wisteria is great for covering an arbor or pergola, training Wisteria vines makes it easier to control. Keep in mind, however, when training Wisteria vines the variety may exhibit different twining characteristics. For example, Chinese wisteria (Wisteria sinensis) twines counterclockwise while the Japanese variety (Wisteria floribunda) is the opposite, twining clockwise.
When training Wisteria vines, select an upright stem and attach it to the chosen support. Remove any side shoots and continue to train the main vine upwards. New side branches can be trained as needed to fill in spaces of the support structure by attaching them where desired. For best results, keep these side branches spaced about 18 inches (45 cm) apart. Once the Wisteria has reached the desired height, pinch off or cut the main vine tip to stunt its growth.
Even trained Wisteria vines require regular pruning; otherwise, Wisteria will quickly take over everything in its path. Knowing how and when to prune Wisteria is important. While regular pruning of new shoots throughout its growing season helps keep the vine manageable, Wisteria requires a heavy pruning in late fall or winter as well. Remove any dead wood or crowded branches and cut back the side branches to about a foot (30 cm) or so from the main trunk. Also remove any suckers from its base.
Propagation
Learning how to propagate Wisteria vines is easy; however, doing so by way of seed is not a good idea. If choosing to propagate from seed, soak them overnight and plant. The seeds should sprout within a few weeks but keep in mind that blooming may not occur for 10-15 years, if ever.
The best way to propagate Wisteria is through cuttings taken in summer or by layering branches. Either method will still take about 3 to 4 years for blooming. When layering branches, choose a flexible branch and bend it to the ground, placing a few inches into the soil (with leaf node included). Weight it down to secure in place and allow this to overwinter. By spring it should have enough roots for planting.
Growing Conditions and General Care
The most important factor to consider when growing Wisteria is location. Wisteria is a twining vine that requires sturdy support and regular pruning to keep it under control. Open areas surrounded by lawn that can be easily mowed are ideal for growing Wisteria.
Wisteria doesn’t fair well in cold so make sure it receives plenty of sunlight.
This vine requires deep, rich soil that is somewhat moist but will tolerate many soil conditions.
Once planted, pruning is about the only important requirement for Wisteria vine care. Since this vine is an aggressive grower, there’s no need for fertilizing and being drought tolerant, Wisteria requires little watering.
Pruning and Training
While Wisteria is great for covering an arbor or pergola, training Wisteria vines makes it easier to control. Keep in mind, however, when training Wisteria vines the variety may exhibit different twining characteristics. For example, Chinese wisteria (Wisteria sinensis) twines counterclockwise while the Japanese variety (Wisteria floribunda) is the opposite, twining clockwise.
When training Wisteria vines, select an upright stem and attach it to the chosen support. Remove any side shoots and continue to train the main vine upwards. New side branches can be trained as needed to fill in spaces of the support structure by attaching them where desired. For best results, keep these side branches spaced about 18 inches (45 cm) apart. Once the Wisteria has reached the desired height, pinch off or cut the main vine tip to stunt its growth.
Even trained Wisteria vines require regular pruning; otherwise, Wisteria will quickly take over everything in its path. Knowing how and when to prune Wisteria is important. While regular pruning of new shoots throughout its growing season helps keep the vine manageable, Wisteria requires a heavy pruning in late fall or winter as well. Remove any dead wood or crowded branches and cut back the side branches to about a foot (30 cm) or so from the main trunk. Also remove any suckers from its base.
Propagation
Learning how to propagate Wisteria vines is easy; however, doing so by way of seed is not a good idea. If choosing to propagate from seed, soak them overnight and plant. The seeds should sprout within a few weeks but keep in mind that blooming may not occur for 10-15 years, if ever.
The best way to propagate Wisteria is through cuttings taken in summer or by layering branches. Either method will still take about 3 to 4 years for blooming. When layering branches, choose a flexible branch and bend it to the ground, placing a few inches into the soil (with leaf node included). Weight it down to secure in place and allow this to overwinter. By spring it should have enough roots for planting.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月27日
Pieris japonica is a species of fantastic evergreen spring shrub which put on a spectacular display of white or pink, bell-shaped flowers and colorful new growth which ranges from pale pink to dark burgundy. It is a member of the Heath family and is originally from the forested mountain regions of China, Japan and Taiwan, and often called Lily of the Valley Bush, Japanese Pieris or Japanese Andromeda. It is a shrubs or small tree which in the wild can reach up to 33 feet (10 m), but the cultivated varieties available from garden centers are more likely to be small and compact or just reaching a height of up to 13 feet (4 m). They are fairly slow growing so even if you buy one of the larger varieties they will probably take up to 20 years to reach their maximum height. They are toxic to people and animals so make sure they are planted in a position where farm stock cannot reach them. They go well with other ericaceous woodland plants such as Rhododendrons, azaleas and Camellias, as they all enjoy the same conditions.
Position
As they are originally from a forested habitat they do best in dappled shade. Strong sun in early spring can burn the tender new growth. They will not do too well in full shade as they won’t produce as many flowers and the color of the new growth won’t be as intense. They need well-drained but moisture retentive humus-rich acid soil. If you have an alkaline soil you will have to grow it in a pot. You can add ericaceous compost and feed and mulch with pine needles but it will only be temporary and an alkaline soil will always be an alkaline soil. They are a hardy shrub but it may need some protection from late frosts which will burn the new growth and flowers. The frost probably won’t kill the plant but it will mar the spring display which is usually the main reason it is grown.
Planting
Plant them to the same depth as they are in the pot and water well. Keep an eye on the watering in the first season, particularly if there is a long dry spell.
Aftercare
It requires little or no pruning as it grows very slowly, just take out any dead branches. If you have to prune do it immediately after flowering. Take off the spent flowers to encourage the plant to put its energy into producing colorful new growth. Mulching with pine needles or ericaceous compost in spring will conserve moisture and retain the acidity of the soil. Feed with an ericaceous fertiliser, which also feeds Rhododendrons, azaleas and Camellias, in spring. Yellowing of the foliage is an indicator that it is lacking nutrients.
Containers
Choose a container in proportion to the plant and by re-potting every couple of years eventually move up to a pot suitable for the plants requirements. Put a good layer of crocks in the bottom, about 2 inches (5 cm), to aid with drainage. Pot up in ericaceous compost and raise the pot off the ground on pot feet, a couple of bricks or stones. This ensures that the water runs clear away from the pot and doesn’t block the drainage hole with silt. It will be more susceptible to drying out so keep an eye on the watering. A lack of nutrients can also be a problem so make sure you feed in spring.
Pests and Diseases
Leaf spot is a fungus which can be a problem in a wet spring. Spray with a fungicide to control the spread. There is no non-chemical solution.
Phytophthara ramorum is a particularly vicious fungus which attacks the roots and is responsible for Sudden Oak Death. The first sign is a wilting plant which is not dry or sat in saturated soil. There is no control. Dig the plant up and either burn it or put it in the grey refuse bin. Don’t compost it or put it in the green waste bin as this will only spread the disease.
Pieris Lacebug is a winged insect which causes the leaves to be pale and mottled on the upper surface, eventually leading to a bleached appearance later on in summer. The insects can be seen on the underside of the leaf. There is no non-chemical control. Spray with insecticide in early summer. Be careful about spraying other flowering plants as you will also kill bees, pollinators and any other beneficial insects.
Position
As they are originally from a forested habitat they do best in dappled shade. Strong sun in early spring can burn the tender new growth. They will not do too well in full shade as they won’t produce as many flowers and the color of the new growth won’t be as intense. They need well-drained but moisture retentive humus-rich acid soil. If you have an alkaline soil you will have to grow it in a pot. You can add ericaceous compost and feed and mulch with pine needles but it will only be temporary and an alkaline soil will always be an alkaline soil. They are a hardy shrub but it may need some protection from late frosts which will burn the new growth and flowers. The frost probably won’t kill the plant but it will mar the spring display which is usually the main reason it is grown.
Planting
Plant them to the same depth as they are in the pot and water well. Keep an eye on the watering in the first season, particularly if there is a long dry spell.
Aftercare
It requires little or no pruning as it grows very slowly, just take out any dead branches. If you have to prune do it immediately after flowering. Take off the spent flowers to encourage the plant to put its energy into producing colorful new growth. Mulching with pine needles or ericaceous compost in spring will conserve moisture and retain the acidity of the soil. Feed with an ericaceous fertiliser, which also feeds Rhododendrons, azaleas and Camellias, in spring. Yellowing of the foliage is an indicator that it is lacking nutrients.
Containers
Choose a container in proportion to the plant and by re-potting every couple of years eventually move up to a pot suitable for the plants requirements. Put a good layer of crocks in the bottom, about 2 inches (5 cm), to aid with drainage. Pot up in ericaceous compost and raise the pot off the ground on pot feet, a couple of bricks or stones. This ensures that the water runs clear away from the pot and doesn’t block the drainage hole with silt. It will be more susceptible to drying out so keep an eye on the watering. A lack of nutrients can also be a problem so make sure you feed in spring.
Pests and Diseases
Leaf spot is a fungus which can be a problem in a wet spring. Spray with a fungicide to control the spread. There is no non-chemical solution.
Phytophthara ramorum is a particularly vicious fungus which attacks the roots and is responsible for Sudden Oak Death. The first sign is a wilting plant which is not dry or sat in saturated soil. There is no control. Dig the plant up and either burn it or put it in the grey refuse bin. Don’t compost it or put it in the green waste bin as this will only spread the disease.
Pieris Lacebug is a winged insect which causes the leaves to be pale and mottled on the upper surface, eventually leading to a bleached appearance later on in summer. The insects can be seen on the underside of the leaf. There is no non-chemical control. Spray with insecticide in early summer. Be careful about spraying other flowering plants as you will also kill bees, pollinators and any other beneficial insects.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月27日
All species of Honeysuckle plant (Lonicera) fall into two categories: 1) arching shrubs and 2) twinning bines, with the large majority being climbing plants that make for attractive Honeysuckle vines. These Honeysuckle vines produce trumpet shaped flowers, honey-like scents, and sweet nectar that attract butterflies, hummingbirds, and even humans who enjoy sampling the nectar.
This type of vine is quite easy to grow when correctly planted and maintained. If you find yourself having trouble getting your Honeysuckle vine to thrive, you may be making some of the following mistakes in caring for your plant.
These mistakes are common, but fortunately, they are also easily remedied.
1. Planting Too Late in the Season
Honeysuckle vines should be planted during the spring in cooler climates because their roots thrive when cool and shaded. Make sure to wait until the final frost before planting them.
When the timing is finally right, locate a spot for planting where they’ll get full sun, or at the very least, partial sun exposure. Plant your Honeysuckle at a soil depth of 18 inches (45 cm) and lay an organic fertilizer or compost over the top 3 inches (7.5 cm).
2. Too Little Water at First, Too Much Water Later
This type of vine is sensitive to the amount of water and moisture it receives. When you first plant your Honeysuckle, the plant will need a considerable amount of water to help it grow. However, by the time summer arrives your vine will be more fortified and only need small amounts of water, even during dry spells. Many people make the mistake of continuing to water the plant equally throughout these different stages, which is a definite recipe for harmful overwatering in the summer months.
The more important goal isn’t to provide the vine with excess moisture, but rather to retain the modest level of moisture that is proper for flourishing. To retain moisture, mulch the base of the plant heavily. A 2-inch (5 cm) layer of dried leaves, pine needles, or shredded bark makes an ideal mulch for the Honeysuckle vine.
3. Incorrect Use of Fertilizer
At the beginning of the growing season, add a balanced fertilizer (10-10-10) around the base of the plant. Make sure you choose a controlled release variety. In midsummer, fertilize again with a balanced formula liquid fertilizer to encourage continual flower blooms.
Be especially careful not to fertilize too much. Many growers don’t realize they’ve made this mistake until it’s too late because things will seem just fine at first. Using too much fertilizer will still cause the foliage to thrive, which will give the initial impression of a successful vine, but the excess fertilizer will negatively impact flowering down the line. Keep the soil pH between 6.1 and 7.8.
4. Poor Timing When Pruning
Allow plants to become well established before pruning. Pruning Honeysuckle too early can either reduce the number of blooms the vine produces or kill the whole plant. Honeysuckle vines should be allowed to grow for two years before pruning. Prune lightly during the growing season to encourage new growth. With light pruning, only remove old and bloomed-out flowers.
Older shoots on established plants should be removed during the spring to encourage later flowering. It’s safe to cut the plant back 1/3 for a major pruning. Late February to March are the ideal times to prune most Honeysuckle vines.
5. Mold from Poor Ventilation
Honeysuckle vines are prone to powdery mildews and molds. To reduce the chance of these developing on the vine, make sure there is adequate air movement around your plants. Always plant in open air.
6. Improper Support
Most Honeysuckle vines are grown with support systems, although sometimes they’re grown as ground cover for erosion control. If using support systems, it’s important to use them correctly. The trellis or arbor should be in place before planting. This removes the possibility of damaging the plant when trying to install a trellis on an area where a plant is already established.
Plant the vine 6 to 12 inches (15 to 30 cm) away from the support to allow enough room for it to grow. Once the vine starts climbing the support system, tie it to the arbor using a strong, stretchy material, like strips of old nylon hosiery. Cross the material between the stem and the support system to prevent the stems from rubbing together.
This type of vine is quite easy to grow when correctly planted and maintained. If you find yourself having trouble getting your Honeysuckle vine to thrive, you may be making some of the following mistakes in caring for your plant.
These mistakes are common, but fortunately, they are also easily remedied.
1. Planting Too Late in the Season
Honeysuckle vines should be planted during the spring in cooler climates because their roots thrive when cool and shaded. Make sure to wait until the final frost before planting them.
When the timing is finally right, locate a spot for planting where they’ll get full sun, or at the very least, partial sun exposure. Plant your Honeysuckle at a soil depth of 18 inches (45 cm) and lay an organic fertilizer or compost over the top 3 inches (7.5 cm).
2. Too Little Water at First, Too Much Water Later
This type of vine is sensitive to the amount of water and moisture it receives. When you first plant your Honeysuckle, the plant will need a considerable amount of water to help it grow. However, by the time summer arrives your vine will be more fortified and only need small amounts of water, even during dry spells. Many people make the mistake of continuing to water the plant equally throughout these different stages, which is a definite recipe for harmful overwatering in the summer months.
The more important goal isn’t to provide the vine with excess moisture, but rather to retain the modest level of moisture that is proper for flourishing. To retain moisture, mulch the base of the plant heavily. A 2-inch (5 cm) layer of dried leaves, pine needles, or shredded bark makes an ideal mulch for the Honeysuckle vine.
3. Incorrect Use of Fertilizer
At the beginning of the growing season, add a balanced fertilizer (10-10-10) around the base of the plant. Make sure you choose a controlled release variety. In midsummer, fertilize again with a balanced formula liquid fertilizer to encourage continual flower blooms.
Be especially careful not to fertilize too much. Many growers don’t realize they’ve made this mistake until it’s too late because things will seem just fine at first. Using too much fertilizer will still cause the foliage to thrive, which will give the initial impression of a successful vine, but the excess fertilizer will negatively impact flowering down the line. Keep the soil pH between 6.1 and 7.8.
4. Poor Timing When Pruning
Allow plants to become well established before pruning. Pruning Honeysuckle too early can either reduce the number of blooms the vine produces or kill the whole plant. Honeysuckle vines should be allowed to grow for two years before pruning. Prune lightly during the growing season to encourage new growth. With light pruning, only remove old and bloomed-out flowers.
Older shoots on established plants should be removed during the spring to encourage later flowering. It’s safe to cut the plant back 1/3 for a major pruning. Late February to March are the ideal times to prune most Honeysuckle vines.
5. Mold from Poor Ventilation
Honeysuckle vines are prone to powdery mildews and molds. To reduce the chance of these developing on the vine, make sure there is adequate air movement around your plants. Always plant in open air.
6. Improper Support
Most Honeysuckle vines are grown with support systems, although sometimes they’re grown as ground cover for erosion control. If using support systems, it’s important to use them correctly. The trellis or arbor should be in place before planting. This removes the possibility of damaging the plant when trying to install a trellis on an area where a plant is already established.
Plant the vine 6 to 12 inches (15 to 30 cm) away from the support to allow enough room for it to grow. Once the vine starts climbing the support system, tie it to the arbor using a strong, stretchy material, like strips of old nylon hosiery. Cross the material between the stem and the support system to prevent the stems from rubbing together.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月27日
Tulips (genus Tulipa) and Daffodils (genus Narcissus) are often the first flowers of spring. Tulips are available for U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 3 through 9, while daffodils grow in USDA zones 3 through 11. Most daffodils feature bright yellow tubular flowers, while tulips come in a rainbow of colors. Mixing the two bulbs in a single bed creates a colorful spring display and can increase the flowering period if you mix early-flowering daffodils with midseason or late-blooming tulips. Both flowers grow best with full, all-day sunlight and have similar care needs, making them amiable companions.
1. Spread a 2-inch (5 cm) thick layer of compost and 1 pound (450 g) of 10-10-10 fertilizer over every 50 square feet (4.6 square meters) of garden bed in the fall. Dig the compost and fertilizer into the top 6 inches (15 cm) of soil with a shovel.
2. Arrange the tulip and daffodil bulbs on the soil surface. Generally, cluster 5 to 7 bulbs together, spacing the bulbs 4 to 6 inches (10 to 15 cm) apart within the cluster but setting clusters 12 inches (30 cm) apart. Alternate the bulbs in the cluster between tulips and daffodils so that each cluster contains both flowers for an informal look. For a more formal look, alternate clusters only containing daffodils with clusters only containing tulips.
3. Dig a planting hole for each bulb using a trowel. Make the hole deep enough that the flat bottom of the bulb is at a depth equal to about three times the bulb’s width. Set the bulbs in their holes, and fill the holes in with soil.
4. Water the bulb bed immediately after planting to help settle the soil. The tulips daffodils require no further care until growth begins in spring.
5. Resume watering when the bulbs send up shoots in spring. Provide about 1 inch (2.5 cm) of water weekly, or enough to moisten the top 6 inches (15 cm) of soil, if spring rain doesn’t keep the soil moist.
6. Sprinkle 1 pound (450 g) of 10-10-10 fertilizer over every 50 square feet (4.6 square meters) of bed, applying the fertilizer to the soil between bulb clusters, after shoots appear. Water the fertilizer into the soil so that the roots can access the nutrients.
7. Cut off the flowers as soon as they begin to wilt. Depending on the variety, daffodils may bloom earlier than tulips, so removing the old daffodils prevents them from detracting from the tulips’ beauty. Cut back the foliage after it dies back naturally, usually about six weeks after flowering.
Tips
Most tulip and daffodil bulbs require no further maintenance after they go dormant in summer as long as winters drop below 45°F (7°C) for at least 8 weeks. If a cold-enough winter isn’t expected, dig up the bulbs after the foliage dies and store them between 40 and 45 °F (4.5 and 7 °C) to provide this cold treatment. Replant the bulbs in late winter for spring flowering.
You can apply a 2- to 3-inch (5 to 7.5 cm) layer of mulch to prevent weeds from invading the dormant bulb bed, if desired.
1. Spread a 2-inch (5 cm) thick layer of compost and 1 pound (450 g) of 10-10-10 fertilizer over every 50 square feet (4.6 square meters) of garden bed in the fall. Dig the compost and fertilizer into the top 6 inches (15 cm) of soil with a shovel.
2. Arrange the tulip and daffodil bulbs on the soil surface. Generally, cluster 5 to 7 bulbs together, spacing the bulbs 4 to 6 inches (10 to 15 cm) apart within the cluster but setting clusters 12 inches (30 cm) apart. Alternate the bulbs in the cluster between tulips and daffodils so that each cluster contains both flowers for an informal look. For a more formal look, alternate clusters only containing daffodils with clusters only containing tulips.
3. Dig a planting hole for each bulb using a trowel. Make the hole deep enough that the flat bottom of the bulb is at a depth equal to about three times the bulb’s width. Set the bulbs in their holes, and fill the holes in with soil.
4. Water the bulb bed immediately after planting to help settle the soil. The tulips daffodils require no further care until growth begins in spring.
5. Resume watering when the bulbs send up shoots in spring. Provide about 1 inch (2.5 cm) of water weekly, or enough to moisten the top 6 inches (15 cm) of soil, if spring rain doesn’t keep the soil moist.
6. Sprinkle 1 pound (450 g) of 10-10-10 fertilizer over every 50 square feet (4.6 square meters) of bed, applying the fertilizer to the soil between bulb clusters, after shoots appear. Water the fertilizer into the soil so that the roots can access the nutrients.
7. Cut off the flowers as soon as they begin to wilt. Depending on the variety, daffodils may bloom earlier than tulips, so removing the old daffodils prevents them from detracting from the tulips’ beauty. Cut back the foliage after it dies back naturally, usually about six weeks after flowering.
Tips
Most tulip and daffodil bulbs require no further maintenance after they go dormant in summer as long as winters drop below 45°F (7°C) for at least 8 weeks. If a cold-enough winter isn’t expected, dig up the bulbs after the foliage dies and store them between 40 and 45 °F (4.5 and 7 °C) to provide this cold treatment. Replant the bulbs in late winter for spring flowering.
You can apply a 2- to 3-inch (5 to 7.5 cm) layer of mulch to prevent weeds from invading the dormant bulb bed, if desired.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月25日
Scientific Name
Crocus tommasinianus Herb.
Common Names
Early Crocus, Woodland Crocus, Tommasini’s Crocus, Botanical Crocus, Snow Crocus, Lilac Tommy, Spring Bulbs, Spring Flowers
Synonyms
Crocus serbicus, Crocus vernus var. tommasinianus
Scientific Classification
Family: Iridaceae
Subfamily: Crocoideae
Genus: Crocus
Flower
Color: From lilac to deep purple
Bloom Time: Early spring
Description
Crocus tommasinianus is a cormous perennial with a lilac flower, and is one of the smaller of the cultivated species of the genus Crocus. It has long tubed flowers, up to 1.6 inches (4 cm) long, which appear in early spring, as the narrow leaves emerge. The flowers vary from lilac to deep purple, sometimes paler outside.
How to Grow and Care
Crocus bulbs need well drained soil in a sunny to partially sunny location. They thrive in a soil pH of 6 to 7 and are tolerant of a wide range of soils. You may even grow Crocus in the lawn but be careful as they will naturalize and spread to become a potential nuisance.
Plant the Crocus bulbs in groups in the garden bed for impact or even under trees, as they need little root space. Bulbs are planted 3 inches (7.5 cm) deep and 3 to 4 inches (7.5 to 10 cm) apart. Provide mulch over the planting area in very cold zones but rake it away in early spring so the flowers can emerge. Gardeners in zones where the winters are too harsh or too warm to plant in fall can force the Crocus bulbs indoors in time for a spring planting.
Animals can be a big problem with Crocus bulbs. Squirrels and other rodents will dig up the bulbs and eat them, and deer will graze on the early foliage. You can cover the spring bulb bed with wire mesh to prevent squirrel damage, and there are deer repellents you can try to prevent their feeding on your flowers.
Origin
Native to Bulgaria, Hungary, Albania, and the former Yugoslavia.
Crocus tommasinianus Herb.
Common Names
Early Crocus, Woodland Crocus, Tommasini’s Crocus, Botanical Crocus, Snow Crocus, Lilac Tommy, Spring Bulbs, Spring Flowers
Synonyms
Crocus serbicus, Crocus vernus var. tommasinianus
Scientific Classification
Family: Iridaceae
Subfamily: Crocoideae
Genus: Crocus
Flower
Color: From lilac to deep purple
Bloom Time: Early spring
Description
Crocus tommasinianus is a cormous perennial with a lilac flower, and is one of the smaller of the cultivated species of the genus Crocus. It has long tubed flowers, up to 1.6 inches (4 cm) long, which appear in early spring, as the narrow leaves emerge. The flowers vary from lilac to deep purple, sometimes paler outside.
How to Grow and Care
Crocus bulbs need well drained soil in a sunny to partially sunny location. They thrive in a soil pH of 6 to 7 and are tolerant of a wide range of soils. You may even grow Crocus in the lawn but be careful as they will naturalize and spread to become a potential nuisance.
Plant the Crocus bulbs in groups in the garden bed for impact or even under trees, as they need little root space. Bulbs are planted 3 inches (7.5 cm) deep and 3 to 4 inches (7.5 to 10 cm) apart. Provide mulch over the planting area in very cold zones but rake it away in early spring so the flowers can emerge. Gardeners in zones where the winters are too harsh or too warm to plant in fall can force the Crocus bulbs indoors in time for a spring planting.
Animals can be a big problem with Crocus bulbs. Squirrels and other rodents will dig up the bulbs and eat them, and deer will graze on the early foliage. You can cover the spring bulb bed with wire mesh to prevent squirrel damage, and there are deer repellents you can try to prevent their feeding on your flowers.
Origin
Native to Bulgaria, Hungary, Albania, and the former Yugoslavia.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月25日
Scientific Name
Rafflesia arnoldii R. Br.
Common Names
Corpse Flower
Synonyms
Rafflesia titan
Scientific Classification
Family: Rafflesiaceae
Genus: Rafflesia
Flower
Color: Reddish-brown
Bloom Time: Flowers can appear at any time, though blooms tend to be slightly more frequent between November and January
Description
Rafflesia arnoldii is a species of flowering plant noted for producing the largest individual flower on earth. The flower grows up to 3.3 feet (1 m) in diameter. Flowers emerge from very large, cabbage-like, maroon or magenta buds up to 12 inches (30 cm) wide. Despite being plants, they do not photosynthesize, have no roots, have no leaves, and don’t at all seem like plants. It can only be seen outside the host plant when it is ready to reproduce. Perhaps the only part that is identifiable as distinctly plant-like are the flowers, though even these are unusual since they attain massive proportions, have a reddish-brown coloration, and stink of rotting flesh. This scent attracts insects such as flies which then pollinate the rare plant.
How to Grow and Care
The Rafflesia is in serious danger of extinction as the rain forest is burned and cleared for crop production and urban growth. The buds are also harvested and sold because locals believe they have medicinal properties if consumed. The plant has never been cultivated in captivity and it only grows on the tetrastigma vine, so its survival is seriously threatened.
Pollination is rare because most locations contain only male flowers or female flowers. In order for pollination to occur, the fly must land on the male flower and then take the pollen to the female flower. If pollination occurs, the flower produces a globular, smooth-skinned fruit measuring up to 5 inches (13 cm) in diameter. It contains thousands of seeds. Birds and squirrels enjoy eating the fruit and help to spread the Rafflesia seeds through their eliminations.
Origin
It is endemic to the rainforests of Sumatra and possibly Borneo.
Rafflesia arnoldii R. Br.
Common Names
Corpse Flower
Synonyms
Rafflesia titan
Scientific Classification
Family: Rafflesiaceae
Genus: Rafflesia
Flower
Color: Reddish-brown
Bloom Time: Flowers can appear at any time, though blooms tend to be slightly more frequent between November and January
Description
Rafflesia arnoldii is a species of flowering plant noted for producing the largest individual flower on earth. The flower grows up to 3.3 feet (1 m) in diameter. Flowers emerge from very large, cabbage-like, maroon or magenta buds up to 12 inches (30 cm) wide. Despite being plants, they do not photosynthesize, have no roots, have no leaves, and don’t at all seem like plants. It can only be seen outside the host plant when it is ready to reproduce. Perhaps the only part that is identifiable as distinctly plant-like are the flowers, though even these are unusual since they attain massive proportions, have a reddish-brown coloration, and stink of rotting flesh. This scent attracts insects such as flies which then pollinate the rare plant.
How to Grow and Care
The Rafflesia is in serious danger of extinction as the rain forest is burned and cleared for crop production and urban growth. The buds are also harvested and sold because locals believe they have medicinal properties if consumed. The plant has never been cultivated in captivity and it only grows on the tetrastigma vine, so its survival is seriously threatened.
Pollination is rare because most locations contain only male flowers or female flowers. In order for pollination to occur, the fly must land on the male flower and then take the pollen to the female flower. If pollination occurs, the flower produces a globular, smooth-skinned fruit measuring up to 5 inches (13 cm) in diameter. It contains thousands of seeds. Birds and squirrels enjoy eating the fruit and help to spread the Rafflesia seeds through their eliminations.
Origin
It is endemic to the rainforests of Sumatra and possibly Borneo.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月24日
GARDEN designers know that when it comes to annuals, it's not just about the flowers — foliage matters, too. And when it comes to foliage, coleus tops the list. Though it has fallen in and out of favor over the past couple of centuries, this member of the mint family is popular again, and the selection is better than ever.
When breeders try to create new plants, the focus is often on new color combinations. In recent years, other considerations have become prominent, too:
sun-tolerance
delayed flowering
more prolific branching
special growth habits, such as compact and trailing
How to Choose
The variability in patterns is amazing, with solid colors, splashes, blotches, streaks, flecks, margins and veins. Color intensity varies, depending on sunlight, heat sensitivity and other conditions. The term "sun coleus" refers to selections that tolerate more sun. The varieties with dark leaves tend to tolerate more sun, while lighter varieties need more shade to minimize leaf scorch. Morning sun and dappled afternoon shade tends to maintain consistent foliage coloration. Too little light will encourage a weak-stemmed, less vigorous plant without the best color.
Another variable to consider is leaf texture, which includes large, small, twisted, elongated, scalloped, lobed, finger-like, and "duck's foot" — they resemble webbed feet.
Coleus can be grouped into three plant forms: upright, rounded and trailing. Frequent snipping, pinching and trimming can help modify form although the trailing varieties have great value at the edge of a planter or in a hanging basket.
Planting and Care
Coleus has long been considered a shade plant but the best leaf color is achieved with morning sun and some degree of afternoon shade. Many varieties do well in both shade and part-sun. Some can take quite a bit of sun as long as they are not allowed to dry out. Avoid overly damp soils, which can cause leaf drop and encourage disease. Plant coleus after danger of frost has passed when soil temperatures have warmed sufficiently and evening temperatures are above 60 degrees F. Feed plants regularly with a water-soluble fertilizer, especially if they are growing in containers.
To maintain plant form, pinch back every few weeks to prevent flower formation. Pinch just above a set of leaves or branching junction for the best appearance; don't leave a stub. Some gardeners leave the small flowers, but it's best to pinch them off to direct more energy into stem and foliage growth. Coleus left to flower may lose vigor as the plant puts energy into seed production.
Getting More Plants
Raising coleus from seed is relatively easy. Plan to sow them indoors, eight to 12 weeks before the last frost date in your area. Because seeds require light to germinate, sow them on the surface. Be sure to monitor water levels carefully. For best results, use a seedstarting system and read How to Start Seeds.
Overwintering coleus plants as houseplants is another way to get more plants. Temperatures near 70 degrees F. are required. Rotate plants and pinch back as needed to maintain form. Use grow lights to provide adequate light.
Designing With Coleus
Use solid-color coleus varieties, such as Redhead and Lime Delight Premium Sun (both bred for the sun), to make a bold statement in the garden. Try multicolored varieites for "color echoes" that complement neighboring plants that have similar (or contrasting) flower and/or foliage colors. The repetition of certain coleus colors and form can lend unity and harmony in the garden. While a solitary specimen can add a "punch" of color, consider the impact of mass planting as well. Foliage with lighter colors can illuminate shady locations while dark colors in the same setting will create depth and contrast.
Coleus in Containers
Coleus do well in pots and planters, as long as they are planted in free-draining potting soil, fertilized regularly and given the right amount of sun. Avoid windy locations because coleus can be prone to breakage. Feed regularly during the growing season, following the rate recommended on the package. Coleus do not show their best color if over-fertilized, so be conservative and consistent. You may want to consider self-watering planters, especially in sunny locations.
Coleus can be included in hanging baskets, too. Some of the trailing selections will flow nicely over the edge. Compact, bushy types can be used in the center of the basket. Keep in mind that coleus are thirsty and a hanging basket can dry out quickly — choose a self-watering basket for best results.
When breeders try to create new plants, the focus is often on new color combinations. In recent years, other considerations have become prominent, too:
sun-tolerance
delayed flowering
more prolific branching
special growth habits, such as compact and trailing
How to Choose
The variability in patterns is amazing, with solid colors, splashes, blotches, streaks, flecks, margins and veins. Color intensity varies, depending on sunlight, heat sensitivity and other conditions. The term "sun coleus" refers to selections that tolerate more sun. The varieties with dark leaves tend to tolerate more sun, while lighter varieties need more shade to minimize leaf scorch. Morning sun and dappled afternoon shade tends to maintain consistent foliage coloration. Too little light will encourage a weak-stemmed, less vigorous plant without the best color.
Another variable to consider is leaf texture, which includes large, small, twisted, elongated, scalloped, lobed, finger-like, and "duck's foot" — they resemble webbed feet.
Coleus can be grouped into three plant forms: upright, rounded and trailing. Frequent snipping, pinching and trimming can help modify form although the trailing varieties have great value at the edge of a planter or in a hanging basket.
Planting and Care
Coleus has long been considered a shade plant but the best leaf color is achieved with morning sun and some degree of afternoon shade. Many varieties do well in both shade and part-sun. Some can take quite a bit of sun as long as they are not allowed to dry out. Avoid overly damp soils, which can cause leaf drop and encourage disease. Plant coleus after danger of frost has passed when soil temperatures have warmed sufficiently and evening temperatures are above 60 degrees F. Feed plants regularly with a water-soluble fertilizer, especially if they are growing in containers.
To maintain plant form, pinch back every few weeks to prevent flower formation. Pinch just above a set of leaves or branching junction for the best appearance; don't leave a stub. Some gardeners leave the small flowers, but it's best to pinch them off to direct more energy into stem and foliage growth. Coleus left to flower may lose vigor as the plant puts energy into seed production.
Getting More Plants
Raising coleus from seed is relatively easy. Plan to sow them indoors, eight to 12 weeks before the last frost date in your area. Because seeds require light to germinate, sow them on the surface. Be sure to monitor water levels carefully. For best results, use a seedstarting system and read How to Start Seeds.
Overwintering coleus plants as houseplants is another way to get more plants. Temperatures near 70 degrees F. are required. Rotate plants and pinch back as needed to maintain form. Use grow lights to provide adequate light.
Designing With Coleus
Use solid-color coleus varieties, such as Redhead and Lime Delight Premium Sun (both bred for the sun), to make a bold statement in the garden. Try multicolored varieites for "color echoes" that complement neighboring plants that have similar (or contrasting) flower and/or foliage colors. The repetition of certain coleus colors and form can lend unity and harmony in the garden. While a solitary specimen can add a "punch" of color, consider the impact of mass planting as well. Foliage with lighter colors can illuminate shady locations while dark colors in the same setting will create depth and contrast.
Coleus in Containers
Coleus do well in pots and planters, as long as they are planted in free-draining potting soil, fertilized regularly and given the right amount of sun. Avoid windy locations because coleus can be prone to breakage. Feed regularly during the growing season, following the rate recommended on the package. Coleus do not show their best color if over-fertilized, so be conservative and consistent. You may want to consider self-watering planters, especially in sunny locations.
Coleus can be included in hanging baskets, too. Some of the trailing selections will flow nicely over the edge. Compact, bushy types can be used in the center of the basket. Keep in mind that coleus are thirsty and a hanging basket can dry out quickly — choose a self-watering basket for best results.
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0
文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月24日
You may have heard that you can change the color of a hydrangea's flowers by adjusting soil pH. But there's a little more to it than that.
First of all, not all hydrangeas produce blue flowers. Hydrangeas with white or cream flowers, such as Annabelle hydrangeas, oakleaf hydrangeas and members of the PeeGee family, can only produce white or cream flowers. Sometimes their blooms take on a pink tinge at the end of the season, but that's about as colorful as they get.
Hydrangeas with bloom colors that range from pink through blue and purple usually belong to the hydrangea cultivars known as mopheads and lacecaps. These types of hydrangeas have the interesting ability to change the color of their blooms based on the chemistry of the soil. When grown in alkaline soil, the bloom colors are pinker. When grown in acidic soil, the bloom colors are bluer.
Because it's the soil chemistry that determines the bloom color, the variety names given to these types of hydrangeas means very little when it comes to bloom color. For instance, Nikko Blue, Pretty in Pink, Forever Pink and Blue Deckle, all have an almost equal chance of blooming pink or blue, depending on the soil they are planted in.
So remember that even if you purchase a hydrangea in bloom, you cannot be sure the plant will produce the same color flowers once it's growing in your garden.
To manipulate the color of a hydrangea's blooms, you need to manipulate your soil's pH level and mineral content. This is not something you do just once. In order to maintain growing conditions that result in a specific bloom color, you may need to apply special soil amendments several times during the growing season (see Adjusting the pH of Your Soil, below, ).
To really experiment with the color of a hydrangea's blooms, consider growing the plant in a large pot. Because you will be working with a much smaller amount of soil, it will be much easier to maintain the desired soil chemistry.
Start by testing the pH of your soil. This will give you an idea how much of an uphill battle you'll be waging. Be mindful that the health of the plant should be your first priority. It's quite difficult to make a dramatic change in soil pH, and doing so can adversely affect the overall health of the plant.
To encourage blue hydrangea flowers, grow the plant in soil that has a pH of 5.2-5.5. If your soil is more alkaline, you can lower the pH by applying Soil Acidifier at the rate specified on the package. Soil pH can also be lowered (more gradually) by applying an acidic organic mulch, such as pine needles or pine bark.
If the pH of your soil is naturally quite high (alkaline) it will be very difficult to get blue flowers — even if there's plenty of aluminum in the soil. Alkaline soil tends to "lock up" the aluminum, making it unavailable to the plant. (However, you can grow fabulous pink hydrangeas!)
If you prefer pink blooms, your hydrangea should be deprived of aluminum by growing it in an alkaline soil with a pH of 6.0-6.2. You can apply a high-phosphorus fertilizer to further discourage the uptake of aluminum. To raise the pH of a naturally acidic soil, apply Garden Lime at the rate specified on the package.
First of all, not all hydrangeas produce blue flowers. Hydrangeas with white or cream flowers, such as Annabelle hydrangeas, oakleaf hydrangeas and members of the PeeGee family, can only produce white or cream flowers. Sometimes their blooms take on a pink tinge at the end of the season, but that's about as colorful as they get.
Hydrangeas with bloom colors that range from pink through blue and purple usually belong to the hydrangea cultivars known as mopheads and lacecaps. These types of hydrangeas have the interesting ability to change the color of their blooms based on the chemistry of the soil. When grown in alkaline soil, the bloom colors are pinker. When grown in acidic soil, the bloom colors are bluer.
Because it's the soil chemistry that determines the bloom color, the variety names given to these types of hydrangeas means very little when it comes to bloom color. For instance, Nikko Blue, Pretty in Pink, Forever Pink and Blue Deckle, all have an almost equal chance of blooming pink or blue, depending on the soil they are planted in.
So remember that even if you purchase a hydrangea in bloom, you cannot be sure the plant will produce the same color flowers once it's growing in your garden.
To manipulate the color of a hydrangea's blooms, you need to manipulate your soil's pH level and mineral content. This is not something you do just once. In order to maintain growing conditions that result in a specific bloom color, you may need to apply special soil amendments several times during the growing season (see Adjusting the pH of Your Soil, below, ).
To really experiment with the color of a hydrangea's blooms, consider growing the plant in a large pot. Because you will be working with a much smaller amount of soil, it will be much easier to maintain the desired soil chemistry.
Start by testing the pH of your soil. This will give you an idea how much of an uphill battle you'll be waging. Be mindful that the health of the plant should be your first priority. It's quite difficult to make a dramatic change in soil pH, and doing so can adversely affect the overall health of the plant.
To encourage blue hydrangea flowers, grow the plant in soil that has a pH of 5.2-5.5. If your soil is more alkaline, you can lower the pH by applying Soil Acidifier at the rate specified on the package. Soil pH can also be lowered (more gradually) by applying an acidic organic mulch, such as pine needles or pine bark.
If the pH of your soil is naturally quite high (alkaline) it will be very difficult to get blue flowers — even if there's plenty of aluminum in the soil. Alkaline soil tends to "lock up" the aluminum, making it unavailable to the plant. (However, you can grow fabulous pink hydrangeas!)
If you prefer pink blooms, your hydrangea should be deprived of aluminum by growing it in an alkaline soil with a pH of 6.0-6.2. You can apply a high-phosphorus fertilizer to further discourage the uptake of aluminum. To raise the pH of a naturally acidic soil, apply Garden Lime at the rate specified on the package.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月24日
ACCORDING to the Gallup Gardening Survey, less than half of the country's home gardeners use any kind of fertilizer on their lawns or gardens. What's unfortunate about this statistic is that it means gardeners aren't getting as many flowers or as much produce as they should. And they're probably struggling with disease and insect problems that could be avoided.
Well-fed plants are healthier, more productive and more beautiful. This article covers the basics of why and how to fertilize your garden.
Plant Nutrients 101
Plants need to be fertilized because most soil does not provide the essential nutrients required for optimum growth. Even if you are lucky enough to start with great garden soil, as your plants grow, they absorb nutrients and leave the soil less fertile. Remember those tasty tomatoes and beautiful roses you grew last year? It took nutrients from the soil to build those plant tissues. By fertilizing your garden, you replenish lost nutrients and ensure that this year's plants have the food they need to flourish.
There are six primary nutrients that plants require. Plants get the first three—carbon, hydrogen and oxygen—from air and water. The other three are nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium.
Nitrogen helps plants make the proteins they need to produce new tissues. In nature, nitrogen is often in short supply so plants have evolved to take up as much nitrogen as possible, even if it means not taking up other necessary elements. If too much nitrogen is available, the plant may grow abundant foliage but not produce fruit or flowers. Growth may actually be stunted because the plant isn't absorbing enough of the other elements it needs.
Phosphorus stimulates root growth, helps the plant set buds and flowers, improves vitality and increases seed size. It does this by helping transfer energy from one part of the plant to another. To absorb phosphorus, most plants require a soil pH of 6.5 to 6.8. Organic matter and the activity of soil organisms also increase the availability of phosphorus.
Potassium improves overall vigor of the plant. It helps the plants make carbohydrates and provides disease resistance. It also helps regulate metabolic activities.
There are three additional nutrients that plants need, but in much smaller amounts:
Calcium is used by plants in cell membranes, at their growing points and to neutralize toxic materials. In addition, calcium improves soil structure and helps bind organic and inorganic particles together.
Magnesium is the only metallic component of chlorophyll. Without it, plants can't process sunlight.
Sulfur is a component of many proteins.
Finally, there are eight elements that plants need in tiny amounts. These are called micronutrients and include boron, copper and iron. Healthy soil that is high in organic matter usually contains adequate amounts of each of these micronutrients.
Organic vs. Synthetic
Do plants really care where they get their nutrients? Yes, because organic and synthetic fertilizers provide nutrients in different ways. Organic fertilizers are made from naturally occurring mineral deposits and organic material, such as bone or plant meal or composted manure. Synthetic fertilizers are made by chemically processing raw materials.
In general, the nutrients in organic fertilizers are not water-soluble and are released to the plants slowly over a period of months or even years. For this reason, organic fertilizers are best applied in the fall so the nutrients will be available in the spring. These organic fertilizers stimulate beneficial soil microorganisms and improve the structure of the soil. Soil microbes play an important role in converting organic fertilizers into soluble nutrients that can be absorbed by your plants. In most cases, organic fertilizers and compost will provide all the secondary and micronutrients your plants need.
Synthetic fertilizers are water-soluble and can be taken up by the plant almost immediately. In fact applying too much synthetic fertilizer can "burn" foliage and damage your plants. Synthetic fertilizers give plants a quick boost but do little to improve soil texture, stimulate soil life, or improve your soil's long-term fertility. Because synthetic fertilizers are highly water-soluble, they can also leach out into streams and ponds. Synthetic fertilizers do have some advantages in early spring. Because they are water-soluble, they are available to plants even when the soil is still cold and soil microbes are inactive. For this reason, some organically-based fertilizers, such as PHC All-Purpose Fertilizer, also contain small amounts of synthetic fertilizers to ensure the availability of nutrients.
For the long-term health of your garden, feeding your plants by building the soil with organic fertilizers and compost is best. This will give you soil that is rich in organic matter and teeming with microbial life.
Foliar Feeding?
Plants can absorb nutrients eight to 20 times more efficiently through their leaf surfaces than through their roots. As a result, spraying foliage with liquid nutrients can produce remarkable yields. For best results, spray plants during their critical growth stages such as transplanting time, blooming time and just after fruit sets.
What About pH?
Even if proper nutrients are present in the soil, some nutrients cannot be absorbed by plants if the soil pH is too high or too low. For most plants, soil pH should be between 6.0 and 7.0. A soil test will measure the pH of your soil. You can send a sample to a lab (contact your local extension service for a low-cost kit) or buy a home kit and do it yourself. Lime or wood ash can be used to raise pH; sulfur or aluminum sulfate can lower pH. Keep in mind that it's best to raise or lower soil pH slowly over the course of a year or two. Dramatic adjustments can result in the opposite extreme, which may be worse than what you started with. Once again, a helpful solution is to apply compost. Compost moderates soil pH and is one of the best ways to maintain the 6.5 ideal.
How to Choose a Fertilizer
In most cases, an all-purpose, 5-5-5 fertilizer will provide the nutrients all plants need for healthy growth. If a soil test reveals certain nutrient deficiencies, or if you want to tailor your fertilizer to the needs of particular plants (tomatoes vs. flowers), you can select a special formulation. What you choose will depend on your soil and what you are growing.
The three numbers that you see on a fertilizer label, such as 5-5-5, tell you what proportion of each macronutrient the fertilizer contains. The first number is always nitrogen (N), the second is phosphorus (P) and the third is potassium (K). This "N-P-K" ratio reflects the available nutrients —by weight—contained in that fertilizer. For example, if a 100-pound bag of fertilizer has an N-P-K ratio of 5-7-4, it contains 5 pounds of nitrate, 7 pounds of phosphate (which contains phosphorus), 4 pounds of potash (which contains potassium) and 84 pounds of filler.
Note that the N-P-K ratio of organic fertilizers is typically lower than that of a synthetic fertilizer. This is because by law, the ratio can only express nutrients that are immediately available. Most organic fertilizers contain slow-release nutrients that will become available over time. They also contain many trace elements that might not be supplied by synthetic fertilizers.
Fertilizers offered by Gardener's Supply are either all-organic, or contain primarily organic materials. To build the long-term health and fertility of your soil, we recommend using granular organic fertilizers. Supplementing with a water-soluble fertilizer ensures that your plants have the nutrients they need when they're in active growth
Well-fed plants are healthier, more productive and more beautiful. This article covers the basics of why and how to fertilize your garden.
Plant Nutrients 101
Plants need to be fertilized because most soil does not provide the essential nutrients required for optimum growth. Even if you are lucky enough to start with great garden soil, as your plants grow, they absorb nutrients and leave the soil less fertile. Remember those tasty tomatoes and beautiful roses you grew last year? It took nutrients from the soil to build those plant tissues. By fertilizing your garden, you replenish lost nutrients and ensure that this year's plants have the food they need to flourish.
There are six primary nutrients that plants require. Plants get the first three—carbon, hydrogen and oxygen—from air and water. The other three are nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium.
Nitrogen helps plants make the proteins they need to produce new tissues. In nature, nitrogen is often in short supply so plants have evolved to take up as much nitrogen as possible, even if it means not taking up other necessary elements. If too much nitrogen is available, the plant may grow abundant foliage but not produce fruit or flowers. Growth may actually be stunted because the plant isn't absorbing enough of the other elements it needs.
Phosphorus stimulates root growth, helps the plant set buds and flowers, improves vitality and increases seed size. It does this by helping transfer energy from one part of the plant to another. To absorb phosphorus, most plants require a soil pH of 6.5 to 6.8. Organic matter and the activity of soil organisms also increase the availability of phosphorus.
Potassium improves overall vigor of the plant. It helps the plants make carbohydrates and provides disease resistance. It also helps regulate metabolic activities.
There are three additional nutrients that plants need, but in much smaller amounts:
Calcium is used by plants in cell membranes, at their growing points and to neutralize toxic materials. In addition, calcium improves soil structure and helps bind organic and inorganic particles together.
Magnesium is the only metallic component of chlorophyll. Without it, plants can't process sunlight.
Sulfur is a component of many proteins.
Finally, there are eight elements that plants need in tiny amounts. These are called micronutrients and include boron, copper and iron. Healthy soil that is high in organic matter usually contains adequate amounts of each of these micronutrients.
Organic vs. Synthetic
Do plants really care where they get their nutrients? Yes, because organic and synthetic fertilizers provide nutrients in different ways. Organic fertilizers are made from naturally occurring mineral deposits and organic material, such as bone or plant meal or composted manure. Synthetic fertilizers are made by chemically processing raw materials.
In general, the nutrients in organic fertilizers are not water-soluble and are released to the plants slowly over a period of months or even years. For this reason, organic fertilizers are best applied in the fall so the nutrients will be available in the spring. These organic fertilizers stimulate beneficial soil microorganisms and improve the structure of the soil. Soil microbes play an important role in converting organic fertilizers into soluble nutrients that can be absorbed by your plants. In most cases, organic fertilizers and compost will provide all the secondary and micronutrients your plants need.
Synthetic fertilizers are water-soluble and can be taken up by the plant almost immediately. In fact applying too much synthetic fertilizer can "burn" foliage and damage your plants. Synthetic fertilizers give plants a quick boost but do little to improve soil texture, stimulate soil life, or improve your soil's long-term fertility. Because synthetic fertilizers are highly water-soluble, they can also leach out into streams and ponds. Synthetic fertilizers do have some advantages in early spring. Because they are water-soluble, they are available to plants even when the soil is still cold and soil microbes are inactive. For this reason, some organically-based fertilizers, such as PHC All-Purpose Fertilizer, also contain small amounts of synthetic fertilizers to ensure the availability of nutrients.
For the long-term health of your garden, feeding your plants by building the soil with organic fertilizers and compost is best. This will give you soil that is rich in organic matter and teeming with microbial life.
Foliar Feeding?
Plants can absorb nutrients eight to 20 times more efficiently through their leaf surfaces than through their roots. As a result, spraying foliage with liquid nutrients can produce remarkable yields. For best results, spray plants during their critical growth stages such as transplanting time, blooming time and just after fruit sets.
What About pH?
Even if proper nutrients are present in the soil, some nutrients cannot be absorbed by plants if the soil pH is too high or too low. For most plants, soil pH should be between 6.0 and 7.0. A soil test will measure the pH of your soil. You can send a sample to a lab (contact your local extension service for a low-cost kit) or buy a home kit and do it yourself. Lime or wood ash can be used to raise pH; sulfur or aluminum sulfate can lower pH. Keep in mind that it's best to raise or lower soil pH slowly over the course of a year or two. Dramatic adjustments can result in the opposite extreme, which may be worse than what you started with. Once again, a helpful solution is to apply compost. Compost moderates soil pH and is one of the best ways to maintain the 6.5 ideal.
How to Choose a Fertilizer
In most cases, an all-purpose, 5-5-5 fertilizer will provide the nutrients all plants need for healthy growth. If a soil test reveals certain nutrient deficiencies, or if you want to tailor your fertilizer to the needs of particular plants (tomatoes vs. flowers), you can select a special formulation. What you choose will depend on your soil and what you are growing.
The three numbers that you see on a fertilizer label, such as 5-5-5, tell you what proportion of each macronutrient the fertilizer contains. The first number is always nitrogen (N), the second is phosphorus (P) and the third is potassium (K). This "N-P-K" ratio reflects the available nutrients —by weight—contained in that fertilizer. For example, if a 100-pound bag of fertilizer has an N-P-K ratio of 5-7-4, it contains 5 pounds of nitrate, 7 pounds of phosphate (which contains phosphorus), 4 pounds of potash (which contains potassium) and 84 pounds of filler.
Note that the N-P-K ratio of organic fertilizers is typically lower than that of a synthetic fertilizer. This is because by law, the ratio can only express nutrients that are immediately available. Most organic fertilizers contain slow-release nutrients that will become available over time. They also contain many trace elements that might not be supplied by synthetic fertilizers.
Fertilizers offered by Gardener's Supply are either all-organic, or contain primarily organic materials. To build the long-term health and fertility of your soil, we recommend using granular organic fertilizers. Supplementing with a water-soluble fertilizer ensures that your plants have the nutrients they need when they're in active growth
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月24日
Special techniques bring showy flowers into bloom
GROWING bulbs indoors lets you enjoy the colors and fragrance of spring when it's still months away. The key to success with indoor bulbs is to plan ahead.
Many people don't realize that there are two types of bulbs for indoor growing: those you need to chill and those you don't. Here's how to tell the difference.
Bulbs That Don't Need Chilling
These bulbs are native to warm climates, so they don't require a cooling period to trigger blooms. Amaryllis and paperwhite narcissus both belong in this category.
You can grow these bulbs in a pot filled with soil, or just place them in a shallow bowl and use pebbles to hold the bulbs in place. Add water, and they'll usually bloom just four weeks after "planting". To help keep stems short and sturdy, start them out with indirect light and temperatures of about 50 degrees F. for the first two weeks, then warmer, brighter conditions after that. If you're growing your bulbs in a bowl with pebbles or marbles, the water should cover no more than the bottom quarter to third of the bulb.
Amaryllis are available in many interesting colors and forms: There are bright reds, as well as white, pink and peach. For more information, read Amaryllis Care.
Paperwhites offer delicate beauty and an intense fragrance. Buy a couple dozen paperwhite bulbs and store them in a cool, dry place. Start some every few weeks for blooms right through February.
Bulbs That Need Chilling
All other spring bulbs require a chilling period before they'll bloom. This includes tulips, daffodils, hyacinths, crocus, Dutch iris and scilla. Cool temperatures stimulate a biochemical response inside the bulb that "turns on" the embryonic flower so it starts developing. Most bulbs require 16 to 18 weeks of cold before the flower is fully formed. At that point they're ready for light and warmth. If you cut the cooling time short, the flowers may emerge but they will probably be stunted and deformed.
For indoor blooms, the easiest bulbs are crocus, hyacinths, muscari, and mini-daffodils. Tulips and standard daffodils can also be forced, but they require more careful attention.
Bulbs look best in a shallow, wide pot that's 4" to 6" deep. There should be at least 2" below the bulbs for root growth. The very top of the bulbs can be even with the pot rim. Use a standard potting mix (2/3 soilless mix, 1/3 compost/soil). Potted bulbs also look best when they're crowded, so snuggle the bulbs together about 1/2-inch apart. It's also good to stick with one variety of bulb per pot, because cooling and bloom times vary. Water thoroughly after planting, and label each of your pots with variety name and planting date. Otherwise, you won't remember what's what when they are coming into bloom.
Finding the right place to chill your bulbs is usually the biggest challenge. Once planted, the bulbs need to be kept at 35 to 45 degrees F. for the entire cooling period of 16 to 18 weeks. If you live where outdoor winter temperatures rarely get below 25 degrees F, just keep the pots of bulbs moist and store them right in the garden beneath a layer of straw. If your winter temperatures are colder than that, the potted bulbs can be stored in an unheated basement, a ventilated crawlspace, or a cold frame.
Check the information at right for specifics about how long to chill your bulbs. Generally, if you want to have flowers blooming in January, you should plant your bulbs in September or early October. For February flowers, plant mid-October. For March blooms, plant in late October or early November. Keep the soil moist, but not wet for the entire chilling period. And keep the bulbs in the dark or they may start growing before they're fully chilled.
Time for Spring!
Once you remove your bulbs from cold storage, allow three or four weeks to bloom time. Wake the bulbs gradually, starting with about two weeks of indirect sunlight and 60 degree temperatures. When shoots are three to five inches high, move the pots to a 68-degree environment and a bright, sunny window. Once buds color, move the pot to indirect light again to prolong bloom.
After blooming, most people discard potted bulbs. If you find that impossible, keep watering the pots and start adding some fertilizer. When the foliage yellows (usually after a month or two), you can remove the bulbs and plant them outdoors. Just remember, it may be several years before the bulbs build up enough reserves to bloom again. Paperwhites and other tropical narcissus will not rebloom.
GROWING bulbs indoors lets you enjoy the colors and fragrance of spring when it's still months away. The key to success with indoor bulbs is to plan ahead.
Many people don't realize that there are two types of bulbs for indoor growing: those you need to chill and those you don't. Here's how to tell the difference.
Bulbs That Don't Need Chilling
These bulbs are native to warm climates, so they don't require a cooling period to trigger blooms. Amaryllis and paperwhite narcissus both belong in this category.
You can grow these bulbs in a pot filled with soil, or just place them in a shallow bowl and use pebbles to hold the bulbs in place. Add water, and they'll usually bloom just four weeks after "planting". To help keep stems short and sturdy, start them out with indirect light and temperatures of about 50 degrees F. for the first two weeks, then warmer, brighter conditions after that. If you're growing your bulbs in a bowl with pebbles or marbles, the water should cover no more than the bottom quarter to third of the bulb.
Amaryllis are available in many interesting colors and forms: There are bright reds, as well as white, pink and peach. For more information, read Amaryllis Care.
Paperwhites offer delicate beauty and an intense fragrance. Buy a couple dozen paperwhite bulbs and store them in a cool, dry place. Start some every few weeks for blooms right through February.
Bulbs That Need Chilling
All other spring bulbs require a chilling period before they'll bloom. This includes tulips, daffodils, hyacinths, crocus, Dutch iris and scilla. Cool temperatures stimulate a biochemical response inside the bulb that "turns on" the embryonic flower so it starts developing. Most bulbs require 16 to 18 weeks of cold before the flower is fully formed. At that point they're ready for light and warmth. If you cut the cooling time short, the flowers may emerge but they will probably be stunted and deformed.
For indoor blooms, the easiest bulbs are crocus, hyacinths, muscari, and mini-daffodils. Tulips and standard daffodils can also be forced, but they require more careful attention.
Bulbs look best in a shallow, wide pot that's 4" to 6" deep. There should be at least 2" below the bulbs for root growth. The very top of the bulbs can be even with the pot rim. Use a standard potting mix (2/3 soilless mix, 1/3 compost/soil). Potted bulbs also look best when they're crowded, so snuggle the bulbs together about 1/2-inch apart. It's also good to stick with one variety of bulb per pot, because cooling and bloom times vary. Water thoroughly after planting, and label each of your pots with variety name and planting date. Otherwise, you won't remember what's what when they are coming into bloom.
Finding the right place to chill your bulbs is usually the biggest challenge. Once planted, the bulbs need to be kept at 35 to 45 degrees F. for the entire cooling period of 16 to 18 weeks. If you live where outdoor winter temperatures rarely get below 25 degrees F, just keep the pots of bulbs moist and store them right in the garden beneath a layer of straw. If your winter temperatures are colder than that, the potted bulbs can be stored in an unheated basement, a ventilated crawlspace, or a cold frame.
Check the information at right for specifics about how long to chill your bulbs. Generally, if you want to have flowers blooming in January, you should plant your bulbs in September or early October. For February flowers, plant mid-October. For March blooms, plant in late October or early November. Keep the soil moist, but not wet for the entire chilling period. And keep the bulbs in the dark or they may start growing before they're fully chilled.
Time for Spring!
Once you remove your bulbs from cold storage, allow three or four weeks to bloom time. Wake the bulbs gradually, starting with about two weeks of indirect sunlight and 60 degree temperatures. When shoots are three to five inches high, move the pots to a 68-degree environment and a bright, sunny window. Once buds color, move the pot to indirect light again to prolong bloom.
After blooming, most people discard potted bulbs. If you find that impossible, keep watering the pots and start adding some fertilizer. When the foliage yellows (usually after a month or two), you can remove the bulbs and plant them outdoors. Just remember, it may be several years before the bulbs build up enough reserves to bloom again. Paperwhites and other tropical narcissus will not rebloom.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月24日
IF you want to grow flowers from seed, start with sweet peas. The large seeds are easy to manage and most varieties germinate readily. Plus, the resulting blooms are gorgeous and sweetly scented.
Pick a range of varieties
Sweet peas come in a huge array of colors and patterns. Most will grow to 5 or 6 feet, but there are shorter varieties "bush type" that are well-suited to containers. To extend the blooming season, choose a few different types. Read the seed packets to find varieties that bloom early (“short-day”) and late (“long day”). Although most sweet peas are annuals, you can also get perennial sweet peas (Lathyrus latifolia).
Start early
Sweet peas (Lathyrus odoratus) thrive in cool temperatures, so it's important to get them blooming early, before summer heat knocks them out. You can plant them outdoors as soon as the soil can be worked in spring. Chances are it will still be quite cold, but the seeds will be fine. Gardeners in the south can start sweet peas in late fall for bloom in late winter or early spring. Check with your cooperative extension for best practice in your area.
To ensure the longest-possible season of bloom, start your peas indoors. Timing is based on the last frost date in your area. Once you have that date, back it up four to six weeks. That's when you plant. For instance, if your last frost date is May 15, you should plant in early to mid-April. Don't know the last frost date in your area? Check with your cooperative extension, or a good gardener in the neighborhood.
Prepare the seed
Whether you're planting indoors or out, it's a good idea to break or soften the hard seed coat before planting. You can do this by soaking the seeds overnight in water or nicking the brown coating with a nail clippers or a piece of sandpaper.
If you start your seeds indoors, use biodegradable pots, such as Cowpots, homemade Paper Pots or peat pots. The seedlings resent root disturbance, so it's best to have a pot that can go in the ground right along with your transplants.
Provide a trellis
Plant the vines about 6″ apart in a sunny location, ideally with protection from intense, afternoon sun. Unless you've selected a bush-type, your peas will need strings or a trellis of some kind. Peas use tendrils to climb. They can grasp anything that's a quarter-inch or less. Anything bigger won't work. The best support is string, twine, or netting with a grid that's at least 2″ x 2″ . Netting with smaller openings — ½″ or 1″ — will not work well. Trellis netting, such as Nearly Invisible Netting or Biodegradable Netting, is ideal.
Mulch the soil surface to help keep the roots cool. Water if rainfall is insufficient and fertilize every 15 days or so with liquid fertilizer.
Pick frequently
To keep your vine productive, cut flowers frequently and remove the faded blossoms. Once summer heat arrives, your vine might turn brown and die, which is normal. At that point, you can pull it out and replant with something else. Some varieties tolerate heat better than others, such as Starry Night and Cupani's Original, so check your seed packets.
Pick a range of varieties
Sweet peas come in a huge array of colors and patterns. Most will grow to 5 or 6 feet, but there are shorter varieties "bush type" that are well-suited to containers. To extend the blooming season, choose a few different types. Read the seed packets to find varieties that bloom early (“short-day”) and late (“long day”). Although most sweet peas are annuals, you can also get perennial sweet peas (Lathyrus latifolia).
Start early
Sweet peas (Lathyrus odoratus) thrive in cool temperatures, so it's important to get them blooming early, before summer heat knocks them out. You can plant them outdoors as soon as the soil can be worked in spring. Chances are it will still be quite cold, but the seeds will be fine. Gardeners in the south can start sweet peas in late fall for bloom in late winter or early spring. Check with your cooperative extension for best practice in your area.
To ensure the longest-possible season of bloom, start your peas indoors. Timing is based on the last frost date in your area. Once you have that date, back it up four to six weeks. That's when you plant. For instance, if your last frost date is May 15, you should plant in early to mid-April. Don't know the last frost date in your area? Check with your cooperative extension, or a good gardener in the neighborhood.
Prepare the seed
Whether you're planting indoors or out, it's a good idea to break or soften the hard seed coat before planting. You can do this by soaking the seeds overnight in water or nicking the brown coating with a nail clippers or a piece of sandpaper.
If you start your seeds indoors, use biodegradable pots, such as Cowpots, homemade Paper Pots or peat pots. The seedlings resent root disturbance, so it's best to have a pot that can go in the ground right along with your transplants.
Provide a trellis
Plant the vines about 6″ apart in a sunny location, ideally with protection from intense, afternoon sun. Unless you've selected a bush-type, your peas will need strings or a trellis of some kind. Peas use tendrils to climb. They can grasp anything that's a quarter-inch or less. Anything bigger won't work. The best support is string, twine, or netting with a grid that's at least 2″ x 2″ . Netting with smaller openings — ½″ or 1″ — will not work well. Trellis netting, such as Nearly Invisible Netting or Biodegradable Netting, is ideal.
Mulch the soil surface to help keep the roots cool. Water if rainfall is insufficient and fertilize every 15 days or so with liquid fertilizer.
Pick frequently
To keep your vine productive, cut flowers frequently and remove the faded blossoms. Once summer heat arrives, your vine might turn brown and die, which is normal. At that point, you can pull it out and replant with something else. Some varieties tolerate heat better than others, such as Starry Night and Cupani's Original, so check your seed packets.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月24日
A comprehensive guide to orchid care
THE beauty, complexity and incredible diversity of orchid flowers are unrivalled in the plant world. These exotic beauties comprise the largest family of flowering plants on earth, with over 30,000 different species, and at least 200,000 hybrids. Orchids can be found in the equatorial tropics, the arctic tundra, and everywhere in between. The reason for this diversity lies in the orchid’s amazing ability to adapt to its given environment. With so many different orchid varieties that thrive in so many different growing conditions, it is relatively easy to find an orchid that is well suited to the conditions that you can provide — whether it is a kitchen window or a full-size greenhouse.
Most cultivated orchids are native to the tropics. In their natural habitat, they attach themselves to the bark of trees, or the surface of other plants. Their thick, white roots are specially adapted to absorb moisture and dissolved nutrients. Because these tropical orchids usually grow high in the trees, rather than on the forest floor, they are accustomed to good air circulation and plenty of light. They prefer a 12-hour day, all year-round, and require a high intensity of light — about the same as midsummer conditions in temperate regions.
Are orchids difficult to grow? Many of them are. In fact, some are almost impossible to keep alive, much less bring into bloom—even for professional growers. But there are dozens of varieties of orchids, and hundreds of hybrids, that are perfectly happy growing on a sunny windowsill or under lights.
For your best crack at success, start by choosing one of the less fussy varieties that is adapted to the type of growing conditions you can provide. Buy the most mature plant you can afford (young plants are much more difficult to please), and, if possible, buy it in bloom, so you’ll know what you’re striving for.
How Orchids Grow
Orchids are usually grouped into two broad categories that characterize their growth habits. Monopodial orchids have a single, upright stem, with leaves arranged opposite each other along the stem. The flower stem appears from the base of the uppermost leaves. Orchids with this growth habit include the phalaenopsis and vandas.
The more common growth habit is sympodial. These orchids grow horizontally, sending out new shoots from the old rhizome. Leaves and flower scapes form at the top of the new shoots. Many sympodial orchids form pseudobulbs, which are swollen shoots that store water and nutrients to help the plant survive periods of prolonged drought. Sympodial orchids include cattleya, cymbidium, oncidium and dendrobium.
Orchids can also be classified by their native habitat, which gives an indication of the temperature, moisture and light levels they prefer. Orchids native to the humid tropics, such as phalaenopsis and paphiopedilum, prefer daytime temperatures of 73° to 85°F, with 80 to 90 percent humidity. They are happiest in an east or southeast window where the light is not too intense.
Warm-climate orchids, including cymbidiums and dendrobiums, are accustomed to an average temperature of 55° to 70°F, a steady supply of moisture, and good air circulation. They are generally happy in a south-facing window, though they may need a little shading during high summer.
Cattleyas and some oncidiums grow where days are dry and relatively cool. They are able to tolerate a long dry season with temperatures of 80° or 90°F, followed by a distinct rainy season. Their need for light is high, so they should be placed in a sunny, south-facing window.
High-altitude orchids, such as masdevallia and epidendrum, grow in the cloud forests where average temperatures are 60° to 70°F, and humidity is very high. These orchids prefer filtered light that is not too intense.
Caring for Orchids
With 30,000 different species of orchids, it is impossible to give general care and cultivation instructions. However, how an orchid looks can provide clues to its preferences for light, water, and growing medium.
If the plant has few leaves, or leathery leaves (like most cattleyas and oncidiums), it's likely the plant needs a high-light environment. If the leaves are soft and limp (like some phalaenopsis and most paphiopedilum), the plants are probably very light-sensitive, and should not be placed in a sunny south-facing window.
If the orchid has fat pseudobulbs, it should be watered sparingly, and should be grown on coarse chunks of bark or lava rock. If the orchid has no pseudobulbs, it may require more frequent watering, or should be grown in a more moisture-retentive growing medium, such as sphagnum moss.
Light: As a general rule, orchids are light-hungry plants. For best results, they should get 12 to 14 hours of light each day, year-round. In a tropical environment, the duration and intensity of natural light does not vary as it does in temperate climates. For this reason, you may need to move your orchids around, and supplement with artificial light to keep them happy during the winter months.
South- and east-facing windows are usually the best spot for orchids. West windows can be too hot, and northern ones are usually too dark. If you don’t have a good window location for your orchids, they will be perfectly happy growing under artificial lights. Orchids should be positioned no more than 6 to 8 inches away from a set of 4-foot fluorescent bulbs. Opinions vary as to the benefits of cool white, warm white, and grow light bulbs. The new full-spectrum bulbs are probably the best all-around choice. Some orchids with very high light requirements, such as vandas and cymbidiums, may need high-intensity discharge lighting in order to flower. For more information, read Growing Under Lights.
Growing media: Terrestrial orchids, such as paphiopedilums and some cymbidiums, grow in soil. But most tropical orchids are epiphytes, which means that they grow in the air, rather than in soil. Their fleshy roots are covered with a layer of white cells called velamen, which acts as a sponge to absorb water. The coating also protects the roots from heat and moisture loss.
An orchid growing medium must provide good air circulation and permit water to drain very quickly. It must also give the roots something secure to cling to. Depending on the type of orchid, they can be happy growing in peat moss, fir bark, dried fern roots, sphagnum moss, rock wool, perlite, cork nuggets, stones, coconut fiber, lava rock or a blend that combines several of these materials. Some epiphytic orchids can also be wired onto slabs of tree fern or cork. As a general rule, fir bark nuggets are the most popular growing medium.
Watering: Most orchids can tolerate drought far better than they can tolerate excess moisture. Nothing kills an orchid faster than letting it sit in a water-logged pot. Without adequate air circulation, the plant will suffocate and die.
As a very general rule, orchids should be watered once a week. The growing medium should be allowed to dry out between waterings, and excess water should not come in contact with the roots or the growing medium. After being re-potted, most orchids will not resume active growth for several months. Water very sparingly during this readjustment period.
Humidity: Most tropical orchids prefer humidity levels of 60 to 80 percent. With the winter-time humidity level in most homes hovering closer to 30 percent, orchid growers often use a humidifier, or set their orchids in special humidity trays or gravel-filled trays. Some orchids also benefit from being misted.
Fertilizer: Orchid-growing mediums provide very few nutrients, so orchids must be fertilized to sustain healthy growth. Use a liquid fertilizer, and dilute it more than you would for other plants. Fertilizer should only be applied when plants are in active growth. This means that most orchids should not be fertilized in midwinter, or right after they have been re-potted. Many growers use a 30-10-10 fertilizer, though others prefer 10-10-10 or 10-10-30. Misting your orchids with fish emulsion or seaweed extracts will provide micronutrients.
Potting and re-potting: Orchids are usually happiest in a relatively small pot. Plastic pots are preferred because when it’s time to re-pot, the roots can be more easily detached, or the pots can simply be cut apart. To ensure good drainage, you can fill the bottom inch or two of the pot with foam “peanuts.” Suspend the orchid over the pot, and gradually fill the pot with fir bark chunks or whatever other growing medium you are using. The crown of the plant should be just a bit below the top of the pot. Sometimes it's helpful to use a bit of wire to secure the plant until its roots get established.
Some orchids should be re-potted every year. Others may be happy in the same pot for seven or more years. As a general rule, don’t re-pot your orchid unless necessary. Orchids resent being disturbed. Re-pot if the growing medium has started to break down enough to reduce aeration; if the roots are creeping out well beyond the pot; or if new growth has unbalanced the plant.
Propagation: Propagating orchids from seed is quite difficult. Unlike the seeds of other plants, orchid seeds do not contain nutritional storage tissues. To grow, the seed must land where it will find a particular kind of fungi that can penetrate its root system and convert nutrients into a usable form. To overcome the odds, an orchid seed capsule typically disburses millions of microscopic seeds, which can be carried hundreds of miles from the mother plant.
To propagate orchids from seed, you must work in sterile conditions. The seeds must be grown in a gelatinous substance that contains nutrients and growth hormones. You must also be very patient. It takes months for the first leaves to develop, and, even then, they will only be visible with a magnifying glass. Roots appear even later. It will be at least three, and possibly as many as eight years before you see a bloom.
It is far easier to propagate orchids by division. But remember that dividing a plant means forsaking blooms for at least a year. Also, the larger the orchid plant, the more flowers it will produce. Small divisions take many years to mature.
THE beauty, complexity and incredible diversity of orchid flowers are unrivalled in the plant world. These exotic beauties comprise the largest family of flowering plants on earth, with over 30,000 different species, and at least 200,000 hybrids. Orchids can be found in the equatorial tropics, the arctic tundra, and everywhere in between. The reason for this diversity lies in the orchid’s amazing ability to adapt to its given environment. With so many different orchid varieties that thrive in so many different growing conditions, it is relatively easy to find an orchid that is well suited to the conditions that you can provide — whether it is a kitchen window or a full-size greenhouse.
Most cultivated orchids are native to the tropics. In their natural habitat, they attach themselves to the bark of trees, or the surface of other plants. Their thick, white roots are specially adapted to absorb moisture and dissolved nutrients. Because these tropical orchids usually grow high in the trees, rather than on the forest floor, they are accustomed to good air circulation and plenty of light. They prefer a 12-hour day, all year-round, and require a high intensity of light — about the same as midsummer conditions in temperate regions.
Are orchids difficult to grow? Many of them are. In fact, some are almost impossible to keep alive, much less bring into bloom—even for professional growers. But there are dozens of varieties of orchids, and hundreds of hybrids, that are perfectly happy growing on a sunny windowsill or under lights.
For your best crack at success, start by choosing one of the less fussy varieties that is adapted to the type of growing conditions you can provide. Buy the most mature plant you can afford (young plants are much more difficult to please), and, if possible, buy it in bloom, so you’ll know what you’re striving for.
How Orchids Grow
Orchids are usually grouped into two broad categories that characterize their growth habits. Monopodial orchids have a single, upright stem, with leaves arranged opposite each other along the stem. The flower stem appears from the base of the uppermost leaves. Orchids with this growth habit include the phalaenopsis and vandas.
The more common growth habit is sympodial. These orchids grow horizontally, sending out new shoots from the old rhizome. Leaves and flower scapes form at the top of the new shoots. Many sympodial orchids form pseudobulbs, which are swollen shoots that store water and nutrients to help the plant survive periods of prolonged drought. Sympodial orchids include cattleya, cymbidium, oncidium and dendrobium.
Orchids can also be classified by their native habitat, which gives an indication of the temperature, moisture and light levels they prefer. Orchids native to the humid tropics, such as phalaenopsis and paphiopedilum, prefer daytime temperatures of 73° to 85°F, with 80 to 90 percent humidity. They are happiest in an east or southeast window where the light is not too intense.
Warm-climate orchids, including cymbidiums and dendrobiums, are accustomed to an average temperature of 55° to 70°F, a steady supply of moisture, and good air circulation. They are generally happy in a south-facing window, though they may need a little shading during high summer.
Cattleyas and some oncidiums grow where days are dry and relatively cool. They are able to tolerate a long dry season with temperatures of 80° or 90°F, followed by a distinct rainy season. Their need for light is high, so they should be placed in a sunny, south-facing window.
High-altitude orchids, such as masdevallia and epidendrum, grow in the cloud forests where average temperatures are 60° to 70°F, and humidity is very high. These orchids prefer filtered light that is not too intense.
Caring for Orchids
With 30,000 different species of orchids, it is impossible to give general care and cultivation instructions. However, how an orchid looks can provide clues to its preferences for light, water, and growing medium.
If the plant has few leaves, or leathery leaves (like most cattleyas and oncidiums), it's likely the plant needs a high-light environment. If the leaves are soft and limp (like some phalaenopsis and most paphiopedilum), the plants are probably very light-sensitive, and should not be placed in a sunny south-facing window.
If the orchid has fat pseudobulbs, it should be watered sparingly, and should be grown on coarse chunks of bark or lava rock. If the orchid has no pseudobulbs, it may require more frequent watering, or should be grown in a more moisture-retentive growing medium, such as sphagnum moss.
Light: As a general rule, orchids are light-hungry plants. For best results, they should get 12 to 14 hours of light each day, year-round. In a tropical environment, the duration and intensity of natural light does not vary as it does in temperate climates. For this reason, you may need to move your orchids around, and supplement with artificial light to keep them happy during the winter months.
South- and east-facing windows are usually the best spot for orchids. West windows can be too hot, and northern ones are usually too dark. If you don’t have a good window location for your orchids, they will be perfectly happy growing under artificial lights. Orchids should be positioned no more than 6 to 8 inches away from a set of 4-foot fluorescent bulbs. Opinions vary as to the benefits of cool white, warm white, and grow light bulbs. The new full-spectrum bulbs are probably the best all-around choice. Some orchids with very high light requirements, such as vandas and cymbidiums, may need high-intensity discharge lighting in order to flower. For more information, read Growing Under Lights.
Growing media: Terrestrial orchids, such as paphiopedilums and some cymbidiums, grow in soil. But most tropical orchids are epiphytes, which means that they grow in the air, rather than in soil. Their fleshy roots are covered with a layer of white cells called velamen, which acts as a sponge to absorb water. The coating also protects the roots from heat and moisture loss.
An orchid growing medium must provide good air circulation and permit water to drain very quickly. It must also give the roots something secure to cling to. Depending on the type of orchid, they can be happy growing in peat moss, fir bark, dried fern roots, sphagnum moss, rock wool, perlite, cork nuggets, stones, coconut fiber, lava rock or a blend that combines several of these materials. Some epiphytic orchids can also be wired onto slabs of tree fern or cork. As a general rule, fir bark nuggets are the most popular growing medium.
Watering: Most orchids can tolerate drought far better than they can tolerate excess moisture. Nothing kills an orchid faster than letting it sit in a water-logged pot. Without adequate air circulation, the plant will suffocate and die.
As a very general rule, orchids should be watered once a week. The growing medium should be allowed to dry out between waterings, and excess water should not come in contact with the roots or the growing medium. After being re-potted, most orchids will not resume active growth for several months. Water very sparingly during this readjustment period.
Humidity: Most tropical orchids prefer humidity levels of 60 to 80 percent. With the winter-time humidity level in most homes hovering closer to 30 percent, orchid growers often use a humidifier, or set their orchids in special humidity trays or gravel-filled trays. Some orchids also benefit from being misted.
Fertilizer: Orchid-growing mediums provide very few nutrients, so orchids must be fertilized to sustain healthy growth. Use a liquid fertilizer, and dilute it more than you would for other plants. Fertilizer should only be applied when plants are in active growth. This means that most orchids should not be fertilized in midwinter, or right after they have been re-potted. Many growers use a 30-10-10 fertilizer, though others prefer 10-10-10 or 10-10-30. Misting your orchids with fish emulsion or seaweed extracts will provide micronutrients.
Potting and re-potting: Orchids are usually happiest in a relatively small pot. Plastic pots are preferred because when it’s time to re-pot, the roots can be more easily detached, or the pots can simply be cut apart. To ensure good drainage, you can fill the bottom inch or two of the pot with foam “peanuts.” Suspend the orchid over the pot, and gradually fill the pot with fir bark chunks or whatever other growing medium you are using. The crown of the plant should be just a bit below the top of the pot. Sometimes it's helpful to use a bit of wire to secure the plant until its roots get established.
Some orchids should be re-potted every year. Others may be happy in the same pot for seven or more years. As a general rule, don’t re-pot your orchid unless necessary. Orchids resent being disturbed. Re-pot if the growing medium has started to break down enough to reduce aeration; if the roots are creeping out well beyond the pot; or if new growth has unbalanced the plant.
Propagation: Propagating orchids from seed is quite difficult. Unlike the seeds of other plants, orchid seeds do not contain nutritional storage tissues. To grow, the seed must land where it will find a particular kind of fungi that can penetrate its root system and convert nutrients into a usable form. To overcome the odds, an orchid seed capsule typically disburses millions of microscopic seeds, which can be carried hundreds of miles from the mother plant.
To propagate orchids from seed, you must work in sterile conditions. The seeds must be grown in a gelatinous substance that contains nutrients and growth hormones. You must also be very patient. It takes months for the first leaves to develop, and, even then, they will only be visible with a magnifying glass. Roots appear even later. It will be at least three, and possibly as many as eight years before you see a bloom.
It is far easier to propagate orchids by division. But remember that dividing a plant means forsaking blooms for at least a year. Also, the larger the orchid plant, the more flowers it will produce. Small divisions take many years to mature.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月23日
Getting a plant to flower can sometimes seem like a daunting task. If you find that you have no flowers on a plant, the cause is usually related to a number of issues that include anything from a plant’s age to environmental and cultural factors, as well as poor pruning methods. When a plant does not bloom, this normally indicates that there are other issues causing problems.
Common Reasons Why a Plant Does Not Bloom
There are numerous reasons why plants may not flower. Here are the most common reasons for non-flowering in plants:
Age – In many cases, a plant is simply too young to bloom. In fact, it can oftentimes take up to two or three years for some plants to mature, and others may take even longer to bloom. Flowering can also be altered on grafted plants, depending on the age and type of rootstock used. In addition, some plants, like many fruit trees, only flower every other year. Environmental/Cultural issues – Sometimes when you have plants not flowering, it’s due to environmental or cultural issues. For instance, light can play a huge factor in whether or not a plant will bloom. Some plants, like poinsettia, require prolonged periods of darkness to induce flowering. Most, however, need at least six to eight hours of sunlight before blooming takes place.
Temperature – Temperature also affects blooming. Low temperatures can quickly damage or kill flower buds, resulting in no flowers on a plant. In some cases though, a plant needs to go through a cold period to provoke flowering. This is true of many spring-flowering bulbs, such as tulips. In addition, the bloom cycle can be disrupted by extremes in temperature, moisture levels, humidity, and winds. Poor pollination – A lack of adequate pollinators can inhibit both flower and fruit production. Oftentimes, weather can be a factor here, as windy, cold, or wet weather can limit bee activity resulting in poor pollination. Hand pollinating plants can help as can encouraging additional pollinators to the area.
Nutrient imbalance – Too much nitrogen can result in lush, green growth but too much can also reduce flowering. Too little phosphorus can also be the cause for plants not flowering. Improper pruning – Pruning is another factor. If not pruned correctly or at the appropriate time, especially with plants that bloom on new wood, flowering can significantly be reduced.
Getting a Plant to Flower
While we cannot control things like age or weather, we can fix factors such as light, fertilizer, and pruning. For example, if your plant is not blooming because it is not getting enough light, you can simply move it to a more appropriate location. If too much nitrogen is to blame, back off fertilizing and wash away excess nitrogen by soaking the plant with water. Then resume fertilizing with a bloom-boosting fertilizer that increases phosphorus.
Learning how and when to prune plants will not only keep them healthy and attractive but will also prevent bud formation from being disturbed. While it can no doubt be disconcerting when a plant is not blooming, a little patience may be in order, especially when Mother Nature is to blame. Otherwise, becoming familiar with the most common causes that inhibit flowering can help with alleviating any future problems.
Common Reasons Why a Plant Does Not Bloom
There are numerous reasons why plants may not flower. Here are the most common reasons for non-flowering in plants:
Age – In many cases, a plant is simply too young to bloom. In fact, it can oftentimes take up to two or three years for some plants to mature, and others may take even longer to bloom. Flowering can also be altered on grafted plants, depending on the age and type of rootstock used. In addition, some plants, like many fruit trees, only flower every other year. Environmental/Cultural issues – Sometimes when you have plants not flowering, it’s due to environmental or cultural issues. For instance, light can play a huge factor in whether or not a plant will bloom. Some plants, like poinsettia, require prolonged periods of darkness to induce flowering. Most, however, need at least six to eight hours of sunlight before blooming takes place.
Temperature – Temperature also affects blooming. Low temperatures can quickly damage or kill flower buds, resulting in no flowers on a plant. In some cases though, a plant needs to go through a cold period to provoke flowering. This is true of many spring-flowering bulbs, such as tulips. In addition, the bloom cycle can be disrupted by extremes in temperature, moisture levels, humidity, and winds. Poor pollination – A lack of adequate pollinators can inhibit both flower and fruit production. Oftentimes, weather can be a factor here, as windy, cold, or wet weather can limit bee activity resulting in poor pollination. Hand pollinating plants can help as can encouraging additional pollinators to the area.
Nutrient imbalance – Too much nitrogen can result in lush, green growth but too much can also reduce flowering. Too little phosphorus can also be the cause for plants not flowering. Improper pruning – Pruning is another factor. If not pruned correctly or at the appropriate time, especially with plants that bloom on new wood, flowering can significantly be reduced.
Getting a Plant to Flower
While we cannot control things like age or weather, we can fix factors such as light, fertilizer, and pruning. For example, if your plant is not blooming because it is not getting enough light, you can simply move it to a more appropriate location. If too much nitrogen is to blame, back off fertilizing and wash away excess nitrogen by soaking the plant with water. Then resume fertilizing with a bloom-boosting fertilizer that increases phosphorus.
Learning how and when to prune plants will not only keep them healthy and attractive but will also prevent bud formation from being disturbed. While it can no doubt be disconcerting when a plant is not blooming, a little patience may be in order, especially when Mother Nature is to blame. Otherwise, becoming familiar with the most common causes that inhibit flowering can help with alleviating any future problems.
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