文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月28日
Mountain Laurel (Kalmia latifolia) is a broad leaf evergreen that grows and flowers well in full sun to part shade, making it a versatile shrub in the landscape. The broad, dark green leaves provide interest all year long. In spring clusters of cup-shaped flowers open in shade of white, pink and red. It’s a favorite of bees and butterflies.
The shrub grows naturally in the filtered light under tall deciduous trees such as oak and maple, especially near a wet, swampy area. It flowers best, though, with more sun in an open landscape, but the leaves may turn a yellow-green color in full sun.
Growing Conditions and General Care
Mountain Laurel is hardy to zone 5. In colder areas it will need to be protected in winter with burlap barriers to block the winter wind.
Purchase plants from your local garden center. Look for the hardiest varieties for cold areas. Plant shrubs from spring, after all danger of frost has passed, to summer in well drained, moist, acidic, cool soils. Avoid windy areas, if possible. Space plants 4 to 6 feet (1.2 to 1.8 m) apart.
Propagation
Start seeds indoors in spring at 43 to 54 °F (6 to 12 °C). Take greenwood cuttings in late spring or semi-ripe cuttings in mid-summer. Layer in late summer.
Grower’s Tips
Keep young shrubs well watered. Keep the soil evenly moist and acidic with a layer of wood chips or evergreen bark mulch. Fertilize mountain laurel in spring with a plant food for acidic-loving plants such as you’d use for Rhododendrons.
Mountain Laurel will get spindly, develop leaf spots and have few flowers if grown in too much shade. Look for leaf spot resistant varieties if growing under these conditions. It also doesn’t grow well in poorly drained soils. It’s a slow grower that should only be pruned to shape the plant in spring after flowering. Dead, diseased and broken branches can be taken out at any time. Mountain laurel doesn’t have many pest problems.
The shrub grows naturally in the filtered light under tall deciduous trees such as oak and maple, especially near a wet, swampy area. It flowers best, though, with more sun in an open landscape, but the leaves may turn a yellow-green color in full sun.
Growing Conditions and General Care
Mountain Laurel is hardy to zone 5. In colder areas it will need to be protected in winter with burlap barriers to block the winter wind.
Purchase plants from your local garden center. Look for the hardiest varieties for cold areas. Plant shrubs from spring, after all danger of frost has passed, to summer in well drained, moist, acidic, cool soils. Avoid windy areas, if possible. Space plants 4 to 6 feet (1.2 to 1.8 m) apart.
Propagation
Start seeds indoors in spring at 43 to 54 °F (6 to 12 °C). Take greenwood cuttings in late spring or semi-ripe cuttings in mid-summer. Layer in late summer.
Grower’s Tips
Keep young shrubs well watered. Keep the soil evenly moist and acidic with a layer of wood chips or evergreen bark mulch. Fertilize mountain laurel in spring with a plant food for acidic-loving plants such as you’d use for Rhododendrons.
Mountain Laurel will get spindly, develop leaf spots and have few flowers if grown in too much shade. Look for leaf spot resistant varieties if growing under these conditions. It also doesn’t grow well in poorly drained soils. It’s a slow grower that should only be pruned to shape the plant in spring after flowering. Dead, diseased and broken branches can be taken out at any time. Mountain laurel doesn’t have many pest problems.
0
0
文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月28日
Solidago, commonly called Goldenrod, is a genus of about 120 species of flowering plants in the Aster Family, Asteraceae. Topped with plumes of fluffy yellow flowers, Goldenrod is sometimes considered a weed.
Unknowing gardeners may find it a nuisance and wonder, “What is the plant Goldenrod good for?” Goldenrod plants have multiple uses, from providing shelter to larvae of beneficial insects to attracting butterflies. Learn how to grow goldenrod and experience the many benefits.
After learning the many benefits of planting Goldenrod and the simplicity of Goldenrod care, you may wish to include it near your garden. Goldenrod plants provide nectar for migrating butterflies and bees, encouraging them to remain in the area and pollinate your crops. Planting Goldenrod near the vegetable garden can draw bad bugs away from valuable vegetables. Goldenrods attract beneficial insects as well, which may do away with damaging insects when they approach the food source offered by these plants. More than a hundred varieties of Goldenrod exist, with one for every climate. Many are native to the United States.
Goldenrod plants are clump-forming perennial wildflowers that exist on rainwater and add a golden beauty to the landscape. Often thought of as the cause of summer allergies, the species is falsely accused, as the pollen from allergy-creating ragweed is present at the time of Goldenrod blooms. All Goldenrods are late bloomers, flowering in late summer throughout fall with stunning bright yellow flowers.
Growing Conditions and General Care
Growing and planting Goldenrod is easy, as this plant will survive just about anywhere, though it does prefer to be grown in full sun. Goldenrod also tolerates various soil types as long as it’s well draining.
Goldenrod care is minimal once established in the landscape, with plants returning each year. They require little, if any watering, and are drought tolerant.
Clumps need division every four to five years. Cuttings may also be taken in spring and planted in the garden.
Learning how to grow Goldenrod offers many advantages. Bad bugs can be drawn to the plant and consumed by beneficial insects that hatch their young there. Planting Goldenrod adds beauty and attracts butterflies to your landscape.
Unknowing gardeners may find it a nuisance and wonder, “What is the plant Goldenrod good for?” Goldenrod plants have multiple uses, from providing shelter to larvae of beneficial insects to attracting butterflies. Learn how to grow goldenrod and experience the many benefits.
After learning the many benefits of planting Goldenrod and the simplicity of Goldenrod care, you may wish to include it near your garden. Goldenrod plants provide nectar for migrating butterflies and bees, encouraging them to remain in the area and pollinate your crops. Planting Goldenrod near the vegetable garden can draw bad bugs away from valuable vegetables. Goldenrods attract beneficial insects as well, which may do away with damaging insects when they approach the food source offered by these plants. More than a hundred varieties of Goldenrod exist, with one for every climate. Many are native to the United States.
Goldenrod plants are clump-forming perennial wildflowers that exist on rainwater and add a golden beauty to the landscape. Often thought of as the cause of summer allergies, the species is falsely accused, as the pollen from allergy-creating ragweed is present at the time of Goldenrod blooms. All Goldenrods are late bloomers, flowering in late summer throughout fall with stunning bright yellow flowers.
Growing Conditions and General Care
Growing and planting Goldenrod is easy, as this plant will survive just about anywhere, though it does prefer to be grown in full sun. Goldenrod also tolerates various soil types as long as it’s well draining.
Goldenrod care is minimal once established in the landscape, with plants returning each year. They require little, if any watering, and are drought tolerant.
Clumps need division every four to five years. Cuttings may also be taken in spring and planted in the garden.
Learning how to grow Goldenrod offers many advantages. Bad bugs can be drawn to the plant and consumed by beneficial insects that hatch their young there. Planting Goldenrod adds beauty and attracts butterflies to your landscape.
0
0
文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月28日
Hypericum is a pretty little shrub with cheery yellow flowers that have a burst of long, showy stamen in the center. All members of the genus may be referred to as St. John’s Wort. The blossoms last from midsummer until fall, and they are followed by colorful berries. St. John’s Wort plant care is a snap, so let’s find out how easy it is to grow these delightful shrubs.
Common St. John’s Wort (Hypericum perforatum) has been used as an herbal remedy for its anti-inflammatory and healing properties since the Middle Ages. Many ancient herbalists, including Hippocrates and Pliny, recorded the medicinal properties of St. John’s wort.
Growing Conditions and General Care
If you live in USDA plant hardiness zones 5 or 6 to 10 and have a partially shaded site, you can probably grow St. John’s Wort. The plant isn’t particular about the soil type. It grows well in sand, clay, rocky soil or loam, and tolerates acidic to slightly alkaline pH.
St. John’s Wort adapts to both moist and dry soil, and even tolerates occasional flooding. It also withstands drought but grows best with irrigation during prolonged dry spells. You won’t find a plant that will thrive in more situations.
Growing St. John’s Wort herb in a location with too much sun can lead to leaf scorch, while too much shade reduces the number of flowers. The best location is one with bright morning sunlight and a little shade in the hottest part of the afternoon.
If your soil isn’t particularly fertile, prepare the bed before transplanting. Spread about 2 inches (5 cm) of compost or rotted manure over the area and dig it in to a depth of at least 8 inches (20 cm). Transplant the shrubs into the garden, setting them at the height at which they grew in their containers. They grow only 1 to 3 feet (30 to 90 cm) tall with a spread of 1.5 to 2 feet (45 to 60 cm), so space them 2 to 3 feet (60 to 90 cm) apart. Water slowly and deeply after planting and keep the soil moist until the transplants are well-established.
St. John’s Wort makes an attractive ground cover and soil stabilizer. Once established, the plants need no care, and this makes them ideal for out-of-the-way locations. You can also use it as an edging or to mark boundaries and pathways where you don’t want to obstruct the view. Other uses include containers, rock gardens and foundation plantings. The species plants self-seed and can become weedy, particularly common St. John’s Wort. Ornamental cultivars are well-behaved plants that aren’t likely to grow out of control.
Common St. John’s Wort (Hypericum perforatum) has been used as an herbal remedy for its anti-inflammatory and healing properties since the Middle Ages. Many ancient herbalists, including Hippocrates and Pliny, recorded the medicinal properties of St. John’s wort.
Growing Conditions and General Care
If you live in USDA plant hardiness zones 5 or 6 to 10 and have a partially shaded site, you can probably grow St. John’s Wort. The plant isn’t particular about the soil type. It grows well in sand, clay, rocky soil or loam, and tolerates acidic to slightly alkaline pH.
St. John’s Wort adapts to both moist and dry soil, and even tolerates occasional flooding. It also withstands drought but grows best with irrigation during prolonged dry spells. You won’t find a plant that will thrive in more situations.
Growing St. John’s Wort herb in a location with too much sun can lead to leaf scorch, while too much shade reduces the number of flowers. The best location is one with bright morning sunlight and a little shade in the hottest part of the afternoon.
If your soil isn’t particularly fertile, prepare the bed before transplanting. Spread about 2 inches (5 cm) of compost or rotted manure over the area and dig it in to a depth of at least 8 inches (20 cm). Transplant the shrubs into the garden, setting them at the height at which they grew in their containers. They grow only 1 to 3 feet (30 to 90 cm) tall with a spread of 1.5 to 2 feet (45 to 60 cm), so space them 2 to 3 feet (60 to 90 cm) apart. Water slowly and deeply after planting and keep the soil moist until the transplants are well-established.
St. John’s Wort makes an attractive ground cover and soil stabilizer. Once established, the plants need no care, and this makes them ideal for out-of-the-way locations. You can also use it as an edging or to mark boundaries and pathways where you don’t want to obstruct the view. Other uses include containers, rock gardens and foundation plantings. The species plants self-seed and can become weedy, particularly common St. John’s Wort. Ornamental cultivars are well-behaved plants that aren’t likely to grow out of control.
0
0
文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月28日
Forget-Me-Not (Myosotis sylvatica) make excellent indoor container plants, requiring little care to maintain their gray-green foliage and clusters of tiny, light-blue flowers that appear throughout spring and early summer. The plants perform best in moist but well-drained soil. So a light, standard potting mix works well. Because Forget-Me-Not require plenty of air circulation, grow each plant individually in its own 12-inch/-30 cm-diameter container with bottom drainage holes. The plants are pest-resistant and even grow in nutrient-poor soil. So fertilizing them isn’t necessary. Forget-Me-Not is hardy in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 3 through 8.
Growing Conditions and General Care
Place Forget-Me-Not in a south or east-facing window, where they receive full or partial sunlight.
Water the soil deeply when its top 3 inches (7.5 cm) feels dry to your touch, watering until the water drips through the bottom of the pots. Don’t allow the plants to stand in water. Reduce watering to about once or twice each month in winter, while the plants are dormant. Resume normal watering in spring.
Remove the plants’ spent, or old, flowers, at their stems, pinching them off with your fingernails. Throw away the removed flowers. Removing spent flowers encourages new blooms to form.
Fertilize the Forget-Me-Not once each month only if their leaves appear wilted or yellow or the plants grow very slowly during spring or summer. Mix 1 teaspoon of 5-10-10, water-soluble fertilizer with 1 gallon of water, and use the mixture to fertilize the plants in place of one watering session, applying only the amount you normally would use to water the plants. Don’t fertilize during winter while the plants are dormant.
Trim off all dead foliage and dead stems throughout the growing season as well as during winter after the plants die back. Use pruning shears or scissors for the task.
Propagation
If starting off Forget-Me-Not and other Myosotis plants indoors then start about 2 months in advance. The seeds of Forget-Me-Not should be sown in vermiculite. It will take from one to four weeks to germinate at 64 to 68 degrees Fahrenheit (18 to 20 degrees Celsius) in the dark. It is necessary to water the Forget-Me-Nots from below to stop them rotting. Once seedlings are ready transplant into the garden and grow about 6 to 8 inches (15 to 20 cm) apart.
Pests and Diseases
Insects and disease are not too common. If problems arise, treat early with insecticides or fungicides as appropriate.
Growing Conditions and General Care
Place Forget-Me-Not in a south or east-facing window, where they receive full or partial sunlight.
Water the soil deeply when its top 3 inches (7.5 cm) feels dry to your touch, watering until the water drips through the bottom of the pots. Don’t allow the plants to stand in water. Reduce watering to about once or twice each month in winter, while the plants are dormant. Resume normal watering in spring.
Remove the plants’ spent, or old, flowers, at their stems, pinching them off with your fingernails. Throw away the removed flowers. Removing spent flowers encourages new blooms to form.
Fertilize the Forget-Me-Not once each month only if their leaves appear wilted or yellow or the plants grow very slowly during spring or summer. Mix 1 teaspoon of 5-10-10, water-soluble fertilizer with 1 gallon of water, and use the mixture to fertilize the plants in place of one watering session, applying only the amount you normally would use to water the plants. Don’t fertilize during winter while the plants are dormant.
Trim off all dead foliage and dead stems throughout the growing season as well as during winter after the plants die back. Use pruning shears or scissors for the task.
Propagation
If starting off Forget-Me-Not and other Myosotis plants indoors then start about 2 months in advance. The seeds of Forget-Me-Not should be sown in vermiculite. It will take from one to four weeks to germinate at 64 to 68 degrees Fahrenheit (18 to 20 degrees Celsius) in the dark. It is necessary to water the Forget-Me-Nots from below to stop them rotting. Once seedlings are ready transplant into the garden and grow about 6 to 8 inches (15 to 20 cm) apart.
Pests and Diseases
Insects and disease are not too common. If problems arise, treat early with insecticides or fungicides as appropriate.
0
0
文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月28日
Growing Blanket Flowers (Gaillardia) are an interesting and colorful addition to the flower bed or garden, offering long lasting blooms if deadheaded, a necessary part of the care of Blanket Flowers. A member of the Daisy family, flowers are similar to those of the familiar Wildflower.
Blanket Flowers are annual or perennial herbs or subshrubs, sometimes with rhizomes. The stem is usually branching and erect to a maximum height around 32 inches (80 cm). The leaves are alternately arranged. Some Gaillardias have only basal leaves. They vary in shape. They are glandular in most species. The inflorescence is a solitary flower head. The head can have 15 or more ray florets, while some Blanket Flowers lack any ray florets. They can be most any shade of yellow, orange, red, purplish, brown, white, or bicolored. They are sometimes rolled into a funnel shape. There are many tubular disc florets at the center of the head in a similar range of colors, and usually tipped with hairs. The fruit usually has a pappus of scales.
Learning how to grow Blanket Flower is a fairly simple process. They are easily started from seeds or may be purchased as seedlings for a garden display of blooms in red and yellow colors of the traditional Indian blanket.
Growing Conditions and General Care
Sow seeds into a well-draining soil and cover slightly. Although drought tolerant once established, care of Blanket Flowers includes keeping the seeds moist until germination occurs. Once established, occasional watering should become a part of Blanket Flowers’ care. This assists in a longer display of the colorful blooms.
Care of Gaillardias includes planting in a full sun location to keep this fast growing specimen happy. As a native plant to the central United States and Mexico, Blanket Flower is a heat loving flower that attracts butterflies. Growing Blanket Flowers are drought tolerant and do not like wet feet from soggy soil.
Now that you are familiar with growing Blanket Flowers, you can add then to a bed or border for eye catching color. Growing Blanket Flowers can naturalize in a meadow or field adding hues of color. Easy care of Blanket Flowers makes them an ideal specimen for many landscape uses.
Blanket Flowers are annual or perennial herbs or subshrubs, sometimes with rhizomes. The stem is usually branching and erect to a maximum height around 32 inches (80 cm). The leaves are alternately arranged. Some Gaillardias have only basal leaves. They vary in shape. They are glandular in most species. The inflorescence is a solitary flower head. The head can have 15 or more ray florets, while some Blanket Flowers lack any ray florets. They can be most any shade of yellow, orange, red, purplish, brown, white, or bicolored. They are sometimes rolled into a funnel shape. There are many tubular disc florets at the center of the head in a similar range of colors, and usually tipped with hairs. The fruit usually has a pappus of scales.
Learning how to grow Blanket Flower is a fairly simple process. They are easily started from seeds or may be purchased as seedlings for a garden display of blooms in red and yellow colors of the traditional Indian blanket.
Growing Conditions and General Care
Sow seeds into a well-draining soil and cover slightly. Although drought tolerant once established, care of Blanket Flowers includes keeping the seeds moist until germination occurs. Once established, occasional watering should become a part of Blanket Flowers’ care. This assists in a longer display of the colorful blooms.
Care of Gaillardias includes planting in a full sun location to keep this fast growing specimen happy. As a native plant to the central United States and Mexico, Blanket Flower is a heat loving flower that attracts butterflies. Growing Blanket Flowers are drought tolerant and do not like wet feet from soggy soil.
Now that you are familiar with growing Blanket Flowers, you can add then to a bed or border for eye catching color. Growing Blanket Flowers can naturalize in a meadow or field adding hues of color. Easy care of Blanket Flowers makes them an ideal specimen for many landscape uses.
0
0
文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月28日
Geum is a perennial plant that holds its own in almost any flower border. Its low, deep green foliage is a pleasing backdrop for the tall stalks of dangling flowers that come in warm red, orange and yellow tones.
Also known as Avens, Geum grows in a small clump about 12 to 18 inches (30 to 45 cm) wide. While there are many wild species of Geum, gardeners typically grow the hybrid cultivars, which all have fluffy double blossoms, usually 1 to 2 inches (2.5 to 5 cm) in diameter, with many layers of petals. Geum flowers are held above the evergreen foliage on wiry stems, giving them a light, airy feeling. They flower profusely in spring and then sporadically throughout the summer.
Geum is also known for its seed heads. After the flowers fade, the seeds develop inside a unique structure with feathery gray tails.
With its elegant jewel-like flowers and attractive foliage, Geum is welcome in almost any garden bed or floral arrangement. It’s not a tough-as-nails plant, but with basic care and decent soil conditions it will thrive with little effort.
Growing Conditions
Geums flower best in a sunny position with average garden water. However, in really hot climates, afternoon shade is essential to keep the plants from being scorched. Good drainage is also important, as Geum is subject to root rot in wet conditions. Otherwise, they are very adaptable to different soil types.
Garden Uses
Geums are generally grown as a front of the border plant, where their low foliage and bright flowers make a cheerful edging to flower beds. Since it is a small plant, masses of one variety are very effective, though they can also be interspersed with other small-statured annuals and perennials for a cottage garden look. Geums are also excellent in potted arrangements and make great cut flowers.
Cultivation and Care
Geum is easily grown by seed sown indoors six to eight weeks before the average date of last frost. However, improved cultivars are readily available in garden centers, so most gardeners choose to start them as transplants. Plant them in good garden soil that has been enriched with compost. They are not considered drought-tolerant and will need weekly water throughout their life.
It’s important to note that Geums are short-lived perennials that require division every few years to renew the patch. Otherwise, they will naturally decline and disappear.
Bloom and Foliage Care
The bloom period can be prolonged somewhat by deadheading. However, the foliage is evergreen in all but the coldest climates and can be allowed to remain through the winter. If the leaves are nipped by the cold, simply cut the plants to the ground – they will re-emerge in spring.
Pests and Disease
Few pests or diseases trouble Geum. Root rot, particularly in winter, can be a problem in wet soils. Powdery mildew can turn up in dry soil, especially late in the season. In all cases, diseased Geum plants are a sign of improper growing conditions or simply the age of the plants. But as a short term fix, it’s worthwhile to remove the infected foliage and allow fresh leaves to regrow.
Also known as Avens, Geum grows in a small clump about 12 to 18 inches (30 to 45 cm) wide. While there are many wild species of Geum, gardeners typically grow the hybrid cultivars, which all have fluffy double blossoms, usually 1 to 2 inches (2.5 to 5 cm) in diameter, with many layers of petals. Geum flowers are held above the evergreen foliage on wiry stems, giving them a light, airy feeling. They flower profusely in spring and then sporadically throughout the summer.
Geum is also known for its seed heads. After the flowers fade, the seeds develop inside a unique structure with feathery gray tails.
With its elegant jewel-like flowers and attractive foliage, Geum is welcome in almost any garden bed or floral arrangement. It’s not a tough-as-nails plant, but with basic care and decent soil conditions it will thrive with little effort.
Growing Conditions
Geums flower best in a sunny position with average garden water. However, in really hot climates, afternoon shade is essential to keep the plants from being scorched. Good drainage is also important, as Geum is subject to root rot in wet conditions. Otherwise, they are very adaptable to different soil types.
Garden Uses
Geums are generally grown as a front of the border plant, where their low foliage and bright flowers make a cheerful edging to flower beds. Since it is a small plant, masses of one variety are very effective, though they can also be interspersed with other small-statured annuals and perennials for a cottage garden look. Geums are also excellent in potted arrangements and make great cut flowers.
Cultivation and Care
Geum is easily grown by seed sown indoors six to eight weeks before the average date of last frost. However, improved cultivars are readily available in garden centers, so most gardeners choose to start them as transplants. Plant them in good garden soil that has been enriched with compost. They are not considered drought-tolerant and will need weekly water throughout their life.
It’s important to note that Geums are short-lived perennials that require division every few years to renew the patch. Otherwise, they will naturally decline and disappear.
Bloom and Foliage Care
The bloom period can be prolonged somewhat by deadheading. However, the foliage is evergreen in all but the coldest climates and can be allowed to remain through the winter. If the leaves are nipped by the cold, simply cut the plants to the ground – they will re-emerge in spring.
Pests and Disease
Few pests or diseases trouble Geum. Root rot, particularly in winter, can be a problem in wet soils. Powdery mildew can turn up in dry soil, especially late in the season. In all cases, diseased Geum plants are a sign of improper growing conditions or simply the age of the plants. But as a short term fix, it’s worthwhile to remove the infected foliage and allow fresh leaves to regrow.
0
0
文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月28日
Narcissus are the classic spring-flowering bulb. For many people, appearance of these delicate flowers outside signals the end of winter and the beginning of spring. Indoor gardeners can enjoy Narcissus too. They are generally less than a foot (30 cm) in height and bought already in bloom in decorative pots. Like other spring-flowering bulbs, Narcissus can be forced to bloom, but will require a chilling period of about 12 weeks.
Growing Conditions
Light: For established plants, place them in bright light as on a east or south windowsill. Bulbs that have not sprouted should be kept away from direct sunlight until new growth emerges and the plants are established.
Water: Many people start Narcissus from bulbs. If you’re doing this, plant the bulbs in moist potting media with the pointed end facing up. Keep the soil continuously moist, but not soaking. They can also be grown directly in stones or gravel by suspending or anchoring the bulbs in the substrate and adding just enough water to reach the base of the bulb. In all cases, it’s crucial to avoid letting the body of the bulb become saturated or sit in water–it will quickly rot. New growth should emerge within a few days to a few weeks after planting, depending on the temperature. The bloom should follow in 4-6 weeks.
Temperature: Cooler (around 65ºF/18ºC).
Soil: Bulbs can be planted in regular potting soil or in pebbles or clay. The key is to keep the balance of moisture right: they should have constant moisture, but never be soaked.
Fertilizer: During growing period, use weak liquid fertilizer weekly. Young plants shouldn’t require fertilizer as they will draw all their nutrition from the bulb itself.
Propagation
Like other bulbs, Narcissus multiply by putting out new bulbs and forming a clump. However, as with other indoor bulbs, most people discard the plant after bloom or transplant it outside. Offsets aren’t as vigorous as their parents and old bulbs will never bloom again indoors.
Repotting
Usually not necessary, as the most common indoor Narcissus (Paperwhite) are sold in decorative pots or as planting kits that are designed to be discarded after the 3-week bloom is over. If you do want to save the bulbs, treat like other bulbs: after the bloom is over and the plant has died back, dig up the bulb, dry and clean it, and store in a paper bag or container in a cool, dark place until the next spring.
Grower’s Tips
The Paperwhite Narcissus are frequently sold as blooming kits. These are a great way to get started with bulbs. They don’t require a chilling period and bloom readily with a pot of tall, fragrant flowers. The plants may need staking to remain upright as indoor plants frequently become top heavy in small containers and want to tip over. You can prop them up with bamboo stakes.
Growing Conditions
Light: For established plants, place them in bright light as on a east or south windowsill. Bulbs that have not sprouted should be kept away from direct sunlight until new growth emerges and the plants are established.
Water: Many people start Narcissus from bulbs. If you’re doing this, plant the bulbs in moist potting media with the pointed end facing up. Keep the soil continuously moist, but not soaking. They can also be grown directly in stones or gravel by suspending or anchoring the bulbs in the substrate and adding just enough water to reach the base of the bulb. In all cases, it’s crucial to avoid letting the body of the bulb become saturated or sit in water–it will quickly rot. New growth should emerge within a few days to a few weeks after planting, depending on the temperature. The bloom should follow in 4-6 weeks.
Temperature: Cooler (around 65ºF/18ºC).
Soil: Bulbs can be planted in regular potting soil or in pebbles or clay. The key is to keep the balance of moisture right: they should have constant moisture, but never be soaked.
Fertilizer: During growing period, use weak liquid fertilizer weekly. Young plants shouldn’t require fertilizer as they will draw all their nutrition from the bulb itself.
Propagation
Like other bulbs, Narcissus multiply by putting out new bulbs and forming a clump. However, as with other indoor bulbs, most people discard the plant after bloom or transplant it outside. Offsets aren’t as vigorous as their parents and old bulbs will never bloom again indoors.
Repotting
Usually not necessary, as the most common indoor Narcissus (Paperwhite) are sold in decorative pots or as planting kits that are designed to be discarded after the 3-week bloom is over. If you do want to save the bulbs, treat like other bulbs: after the bloom is over and the plant has died back, dig up the bulb, dry and clean it, and store in a paper bag or container in a cool, dark place until the next spring.
Grower’s Tips
The Paperwhite Narcissus are frequently sold as blooming kits. These are a great way to get started with bulbs. They don’t require a chilling period and bloom readily with a pot of tall, fragrant flowers. The plants may need staking to remain upright as indoor plants frequently become top heavy in small containers and want to tip over. You can prop them up with bamboo stakes.
0
0
文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月28日
Kohleria plants originated in Mexico and South America. They produce tubular and often speckled flowers in a variety of colors, and their foliage can be decorative as well. Although hardy in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 10 and 11, they are easily damaged by excess water, so they are usually grown as houseplants. Their culture is similar to that of African Violets, but the height of Kohlerias varies from 6 inches (15 cm) up to 4 feet (1.2 m).
Growing Conditions
Light: Kohleria needs plenty of bright light to bloom. Keep out of direct sunlight.
Water: Spring through fall, water thoroughly and allow the top 2 inches (5 cm) to dry out between waterings. In winter, water just enough to prevent leaves from wilting. Rhizomes store water so it’s more tolerant of dry soil than wet.
Humidity: Kohleria prefers relative humidity above 50%, but will tolerate lower levels. Use a room humidifier or a humidity tray to maintain moist air. Don’t mist this plant because the hairy leaves will trap moisture, which will cause spots and possibly botrytis.
Temperature: Average room temperatures 65 to 75°F (18 to 24°C). Don’t expose your plant to temps below 60°F (16°C).
Soil: Peat moss-based potting mix with perlite added for good drainage. African Violet potting mix is ideal.
Fertilizer: Feed every 2 weeks spring and summer with a high-phosphorus liquid fertilizer (such as 10-30-10) diluted by half.
General Care
Put your Kohleria where it’ll get plenty of light, but out of direct sun. Filtered light from a south- or west-facing window will give it the light it needs.
Keep the soil evenly moist during the growing season, but take care not to overwater. Dry soil will cause the plant to go dormant. Soggy soil will quickly cause the rhizomes to rot.
You can expect dozens of blooms on plants in spring and summer. You’ll get the most blooms by providing plenty of bright, indirect light.
This one likes to be slightly pot-bound, and blooms best this way. Repot in spring when it has outgrown its pot. Always use a container with drainage holes to prevent soggy soil.
Propagation
Divide rhizomes in spring and pot separately. Or take 4-inch (10 cm) leaf tip cuttings with at least 1 pair of leaves attached and root in moist potting mix. Cover the whole thing with plastic or a glass cloche to hold in moisture. Cuttings root easily in about 4 to 6 weeks.
Growing Conditions
Light: Kohleria needs plenty of bright light to bloom. Keep out of direct sunlight.
Water: Spring through fall, water thoroughly and allow the top 2 inches (5 cm) to dry out between waterings. In winter, water just enough to prevent leaves from wilting. Rhizomes store water so it’s more tolerant of dry soil than wet.
Humidity: Kohleria prefers relative humidity above 50%, but will tolerate lower levels. Use a room humidifier or a humidity tray to maintain moist air. Don’t mist this plant because the hairy leaves will trap moisture, which will cause spots and possibly botrytis.
Temperature: Average room temperatures 65 to 75°F (18 to 24°C). Don’t expose your plant to temps below 60°F (16°C).
Soil: Peat moss-based potting mix with perlite added for good drainage. African Violet potting mix is ideal.
Fertilizer: Feed every 2 weeks spring and summer with a high-phosphorus liquid fertilizer (such as 10-30-10) diluted by half.
General Care
Put your Kohleria where it’ll get plenty of light, but out of direct sun. Filtered light from a south- or west-facing window will give it the light it needs.
Keep the soil evenly moist during the growing season, but take care not to overwater. Dry soil will cause the plant to go dormant. Soggy soil will quickly cause the rhizomes to rot.
You can expect dozens of blooms on plants in spring and summer. You’ll get the most blooms by providing plenty of bright, indirect light.
This one likes to be slightly pot-bound, and blooms best this way. Repot in spring when it has outgrown its pot. Always use a container with drainage holes to prevent soggy soil.
Propagation
Divide rhizomes in spring and pot separately. Or take 4-inch (10 cm) leaf tip cuttings with at least 1 pair of leaves attached and root in moist potting mix. Cover the whole thing with plastic or a glass cloche to hold in moisture. Cuttings root easily in about 4 to 6 weeks.
1
1
文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月27日
America’s most popular flower is also one of the very oldest flowers in cultivation. There are over 2,000 different rose varieties to lure us with their history and fragrance. This is because the rose, like the orchid, cross-breeds readily—a trait exploited first by nature, and then by horticulturalists. Today, we can choose from old-fashioned favorites, as well as modern varieties that are the result of intensive breeding programs throughout the world. The rose is a flower with a rich past, and an exciting future.
Finding your way through the rose’s large extended family can be both confusing and intimidating. Damasks, musks, gallicas, centifolias, hybrid perpetuals, Bourbons, hybrid teas, ramblers and climbers—even the most distinguished rosarians have a difficult time determining which rose is which.
Tracing the history of a particular rose can be a fascinating adventure, but it is hardly an exact science. The old roses have cross-bred so many times, and so many varieties have been lost to time, that it is often impossible to uncover the exact parentage. If you are one of the many who become possessed by roses, you may eventually find it important to know the difference between a gallica and a Bourbon. But until that point, our advice is not to worry about it. The important thing is to select a rose that you find beautiful, and that suits your garden.
Roses are usually grouped into one of two broad categories: old roses and modern roses. Old roses are those varieties discovered or developed prior to the introduction of the hybrid tea rose in 1867. But like everything else in the world of roses, when it comes to determining how a particular rose should be classified, it’s not always crystal clear.
It is generally agreed that “old roses” include species or wild roses; albas; Bourbons; moss roses; China roses; Noisettes; Portland roses; rugosa roses; Scotch roses; centifolias; hybrid pimpinellifolias; damasks; gallicas; hybrid perpetuals; tea roses; and musk roses. Those classified as modern varieties are hybrid teas; floribundas; polyanthas; grandifloras; miniatures and dwarfs; modern shrub and landscape roses; climbers and ramblers; and rugosa hybrids.
Why choose an old-fashioned rose over a modern hybrid? Many of the old varieties offer more fragrance, more complex and interesting blooms, greater disease resistance, easier care and more interesting forms. But modern roses can offer all-season blooms, and a much broader range of colors and flower forms. Some are also far more cold- hardy and disease-resistant than any of the old-fashioned varieties.
How to Select a Rose
There are thousands of beautiful roses, far more than any of us will ever have the opportunity to see, much less grow. When choosing a rose for your garden, there are five considerations that should make the selection process easier.
Growth Habit
Though roses are usually planted for their flowers, it is important to know what the plant as well as the flowers will look like, in order to determine where it will fit in your garden.
Hybrid teas and floribundas usually grow no more than 2 to 3 feet (60 to 90 cm) high. Their form is coarse, and hardly very appealing, but they do have the ability to produce an abundance of flowers throughout the growing season. The hybrid tea has large, single blooms on long, stiff stems, whereas the floribunda has slightly smaller clusters of blooms on stems that are not as stiff.
Miniature roses have tiny flowers, and may be only 10 to 36 inches (25 to 90 cm) tall. Dwarf roses grow up to 2 feet (60 cm) high, and their flowers are produced in clusters. Shrub roses, including both the old-fashioned and the modern types, and ground-cover or landscape roses, are generally large and leafy.
Climbers and ramblers grow from 7 feet to 30 feet (2.1 to 9 m) in length, and most of them benefit from some support. Standards are roses that are trained into a tree-like form with a single stem and a rounded bush or weeping display of flowers on top.
Hardiness
Northern gardeners need to know exactly what zone a rose is hardy to. Southern gardeners must also watch to see what zones are recommended for each particular variety, as some roses perform very poorly in hot and/or humid weather. Read the catalogs carefully and, if possible, purchase your roses from a local or regional grower. They will be able to advise you from experience about how a particular variety will perform in your area.
Bloom Time
Many roses, especially the old-fashioned varieties, have just one flush of blooms per year. Will you be satisfied with a cloud of heavenly pink blossoms for three weeks in June, or do you need your rose to bloom all summer long? This consideration may narrow your choices very quickly.
Disease-resistance
Selecting a disease-resistant rose is the single most effective way to avoid problems and the need for chemicals. You might start by considering some of the old rose varieties, many of which have natural disease resistance. You can also look to many of the modern roses, which are now being bred for improved disease resistance. Hybrid teas are notoriously disease-prone, and seem to lure every insect pest from miles around. They can be difficult to grow without an arsenal of chemical dusts and sprays.
Stem Length
This may seem like an odd consideration, but it’s important if you are growing roses for cutting. The traditional florist rose is a hybrid tea, and it is the only type that flowers on a long, stiff stem. All other roses have shorter, weaker stems, which gives them a more casual—some believe more beautiful—presence in a vase.
Growing Conditions and General Care
Roses are rather particular, and you should be aware of the growing conditions and care necessary to keep them happy.
Site: For most abundant blooms and greatest vigor, they need to receive 6 to 8 hours of direct sunlight each day. In hot climates, they will appreciate receiving protection from the most intense afternoon sun. In cool climates, a fence or a warm south- or west-facing wall can add enough extra warmth to boost flower production and reduce winter damage.
Soils: Roses need good drainage and a rich, moisture-retentive soil, with a pH between 6.5 and 7. If your soil is heavy and wet, you may want to consider planting your roses in raised beds. Compost should be added to create a loose texture with a high organic content. For help correcting a pH imbalance, read Building Healthy Soil.
Water: Roses require more water than most other landscape plantings, especially during the first year as the plant is getting its roots established. The best way to water your roses is with drip irrigation. It concentrates the water at the root zone where it is needed, and keeps the foliage dry to minimize disease problems. A good, thick layer of organic mulch will help conserve moisture, reduce weeds, and encourage healthy root growth. As the mulch breaks down, it will also add organic matter to the soil.
Fertilizer: Roses are heavy feeders, and will benefit from a steady supply of nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium. You can provide these nutrients with either liquid or granular fertilizers, at a ratio of approximately 5-8-5. In most cases, regular applications of compost, rotted manure, fish emulsion and seaweed extracts will provide roses with all the nutrients they need. These organic amendments also help to moderate pH imbalances and stimulate beneficial soil life. Other organic amendments favored by rose growers include greensand, black rock phosphate and alfalfa meal.
Pruning: Dead, weak and sickly stems can lead to disease problems. Pruning these away will increase air circulation to the center of the plant and minimize fungus problems. Pruning also stimulates new growth, and allows you to shape the plant in a pleasing manner. Spent flowers should be removed during the growing season to encourage reblooming. Use a scissor-action pruner for the cleanest cuts.
Winter protection: If possible, select rose varieties that are hardy for your growing zone; ones that can survive the winter with no special protection. In cold climates, hybrid teas and floribundas, as well as some of the smaller shrub roses, will benefit from a little extra insulation.
Once you have had several weeks of below-freezing temperatures, cover the base of the rose with 12 inches (30 cm) of soil or mulch, and then cover the canes with straw, leaves, pine boughs or even foam insulation. Climbing varieties can be wrapped right on their supports, or you can lay them on the ground and cover the canes with straw or brush. In severely cold climates, hybrid teas are sometimes partially dug up, laid down onto the soil, and the entire plant is then covered with more soil or mulch.
Pests and diseases: Prevention is the best way to avoid pest and disease problems. Start with disease-resistant varieties, keep plants in healthy condition (well fertilized and well watered), maintain good air circulation, keep foliage dry, and remove any diseased foliage or spent flowers. For persistent pest problems, you can use botanical insecticides such as sabadilla, neem, rotenone, and pyrethrins. These are broad-spectrum controls, meaning they kill many types of insects, both good and bad. Though they are organic, these controls are potent and should be used sparingly.
Finding your way through the rose’s large extended family can be both confusing and intimidating. Damasks, musks, gallicas, centifolias, hybrid perpetuals, Bourbons, hybrid teas, ramblers and climbers—even the most distinguished rosarians have a difficult time determining which rose is which.
Tracing the history of a particular rose can be a fascinating adventure, but it is hardly an exact science. The old roses have cross-bred so many times, and so many varieties have been lost to time, that it is often impossible to uncover the exact parentage. If you are one of the many who become possessed by roses, you may eventually find it important to know the difference between a gallica and a Bourbon. But until that point, our advice is not to worry about it. The important thing is to select a rose that you find beautiful, and that suits your garden.
Roses are usually grouped into one of two broad categories: old roses and modern roses. Old roses are those varieties discovered or developed prior to the introduction of the hybrid tea rose in 1867. But like everything else in the world of roses, when it comes to determining how a particular rose should be classified, it’s not always crystal clear.
It is generally agreed that “old roses” include species or wild roses; albas; Bourbons; moss roses; China roses; Noisettes; Portland roses; rugosa roses; Scotch roses; centifolias; hybrid pimpinellifolias; damasks; gallicas; hybrid perpetuals; tea roses; and musk roses. Those classified as modern varieties are hybrid teas; floribundas; polyanthas; grandifloras; miniatures and dwarfs; modern shrub and landscape roses; climbers and ramblers; and rugosa hybrids.
Why choose an old-fashioned rose over a modern hybrid? Many of the old varieties offer more fragrance, more complex and interesting blooms, greater disease resistance, easier care and more interesting forms. But modern roses can offer all-season blooms, and a much broader range of colors and flower forms. Some are also far more cold- hardy and disease-resistant than any of the old-fashioned varieties.
How to Select a Rose
There are thousands of beautiful roses, far more than any of us will ever have the opportunity to see, much less grow. When choosing a rose for your garden, there are five considerations that should make the selection process easier.
Growth Habit
Though roses are usually planted for their flowers, it is important to know what the plant as well as the flowers will look like, in order to determine where it will fit in your garden.
Hybrid teas and floribundas usually grow no more than 2 to 3 feet (60 to 90 cm) high. Their form is coarse, and hardly very appealing, but they do have the ability to produce an abundance of flowers throughout the growing season. The hybrid tea has large, single blooms on long, stiff stems, whereas the floribunda has slightly smaller clusters of blooms on stems that are not as stiff.
Miniature roses have tiny flowers, and may be only 10 to 36 inches (25 to 90 cm) tall. Dwarf roses grow up to 2 feet (60 cm) high, and their flowers are produced in clusters. Shrub roses, including both the old-fashioned and the modern types, and ground-cover or landscape roses, are generally large and leafy.
Climbers and ramblers grow from 7 feet to 30 feet (2.1 to 9 m) in length, and most of them benefit from some support. Standards are roses that are trained into a tree-like form with a single stem and a rounded bush or weeping display of flowers on top.
Hardiness
Northern gardeners need to know exactly what zone a rose is hardy to. Southern gardeners must also watch to see what zones are recommended for each particular variety, as some roses perform very poorly in hot and/or humid weather. Read the catalogs carefully and, if possible, purchase your roses from a local or regional grower. They will be able to advise you from experience about how a particular variety will perform in your area.
Bloom Time
Many roses, especially the old-fashioned varieties, have just one flush of blooms per year. Will you be satisfied with a cloud of heavenly pink blossoms for three weeks in June, or do you need your rose to bloom all summer long? This consideration may narrow your choices very quickly.
Disease-resistance
Selecting a disease-resistant rose is the single most effective way to avoid problems and the need for chemicals. You might start by considering some of the old rose varieties, many of which have natural disease resistance. You can also look to many of the modern roses, which are now being bred for improved disease resistance. Hybrid teas are notoriously disease-prone, and seem to lure every insect pest from miles around. They can be difficult to grow without an arsenal of chemical dusts and sprays.
Stem Length
This may seem like an odd consideration, but it’s important if you are growing roses for cutting. The traditional florist rose is a hybrid tea, and it is the only type that flowers on a long, stiff stem. All other roses have shorter, weaker stems, which gives them a more casual—some believe more beautiful—presence in a vase.
Growing Conditions and General Care
Roses are rather particular, and you should be aware of the growing conditions and care necessary to keep them happy.
Site: For most abundant blooms and greatest vigor, they need to receive 6 to 8 hours of direct sunlight each day. In hot climates, they will appreciate receiving protection from the most intense afternoon sun. In cool climates, a fence or a warm south- or west-facing wall can add enough extra warmth to boost flower production and reduce winter damage.
Soils: Roses need good drainage and a rich, moisture-retentive soil, with a pH between 6.5 and 7. If your soil is heavy and wet, you may want to consider planting your roses in raised beds. Compost should be added to create a loose texture with a high organic content. For help correcting a pH imbalance, read Building Healthy Soil.
Water: Roses require more water than most other landscape plantings, especially during the first year as the plant is getting its roots established. The best way to water your roses is with drip irrigation. It concentrates the water at the root zone where it is needed, and keeps the foliage dry to minimize disease problems. A good, thick layer of organic mulch will help conserve moisture, reduce weeds, and encourage healthy root growth. As the mulch breaks down, it will also add organic matter to the soil.
Fertilizer: Roses are heavy feeders, and will benefit from a steady supply of nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium. You can provide these nutrients with either liquid or granular fertilizers, at a ratio of approximately 5-8-5. In most cases, regular applications of compost, rotted manure, fish emulsion and seaweed extracts will provide roses with all the nutrients they need. These organic amendments also help to moderate pH imbalances and stimulate beneficial soil life. Other organic amendments favored by rose growers include greensand, black rock phosphate and alfalfa meal.
Pruning: Dead, weak and sickly stems can lead to disease problems. Pruning these away will increase air circulation to the center of the plant and minimize fungus problems. Pruning also stimulates new growth, and allows you to shape the plant in a pleasing manner. Spent flowers should be removed during the growing season to encourage reblooming. Use a scissor-action pruner for the cleanest cuts.
Winter protection: If possible, select rose varieties that are hardy for your growing zone; ones that can survive the winter with no special protection. In cold climates, hybrid teas and floribundas, as well as some of the smaller shrub roses, will benefit from a little extra insulation.
Once you have had several weeks of below-freezing temperatures, cover the base of the rose with 12 inches (30 cm) of soil or mulch, and then cover the canes with straw, leaves, pine boughs or even foam insulation. Climbing varieties can be wrapped right on their supports, or you can lay them on the ground and cover the canes with straw or brush. In severely cold climates, hybrid teas are sometimes partially dug up, laid down onto the soil, and the entire plant is then covered with more soil or mulch.
Pests and diseases: Prevention is the best way to avoid pest and disease problems. Start with disease-resistant varieties, keep plants in healthy condition (well fertilized and well watered), maintain good air circulation, keep foliage dry, and remove any diseased foliage or spent flowers. For persistent pest problems, you can use botanical insecticides such as sabadilla, neem, rotenone, and pyrethrins. These are broad-spectrum controls, meaning they kill many types of insects, both good and bad. Though they are organic, these controls are potent and should be used sparingly.
0
0
文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月27日
There are over 400 species of tropical Passion Flowers (the genus Passiflora) with sizes ranging from 0.5 inch to 6 inches (1.3 to 15 cm) across. They are found naturally from South America through Mexico. Early missionaries to these regions used the distinctly colored patterns of the flowers parts to teach about the passion’of Christ; hence the name.
Growing Conditions and General Care
Their vibrant colors and heady fragrance make the Passion Flower a welcome addition to any garden. Unfortunately, because of its origins, most species of Passion Flower plant can’t overwinter in many gardens in the United States, although there are a few that will survive up to USDA plant hardiness zone 5. Most varieties will grow in Zones 7-10.
Because they are vines, the best place for growing Passion Flower is along a trellis or fence. The tops will be killed off during winter, but if you mulch deeply, your Passion Flower plant will return with new shoots in the spring. Since growing Passion Flowers can reach 20 feet (6 m) in a single season, this die back will help keep the vine under control.
Tropical Passion Flowers need full sun and well drained soil. Two applications of a well-balanced fertilizer per year, once in early spring and one in midsummer is all the Passion Flower care you’ll need.
If you live in an area where winters are too harsh for tender Passion Flower care, don’t despair. Growing Passion Flowers indoors is as easy as finding a big pot and a window with bright light. Plant your vine in a rich commercial indoor potting soil and keep it uniformly moist, not wet.
Move your plant outdoors after all danger of frost is past and let your vine run wild. Come fall, cut back the growth to a reasonable height and bring it back indoors. Knowing how to grow Passion Flower is all it takes to bring a little of the tropics to your patio or porch.
Growing Conditions and General Care
Their vibrant colors and heady fragrance make the Passion Flower a welcome addition to any garden. Unfortunately, because of its origins, most species of Passion Flower plant can’t overwinter in many gardens in the United States, although there are a few that will survive up to USDA plant hardiness zone 5. Most varieties will grow in Zones 7-10.
Because they are vines, the best place for growing Passion Flower is along a trellis or fence. The tops will be killed off during winter, but if you mulch deeply, your Passion Flower plant will return with new shoots in the spring. Since growing Passion Flowers can reach 20 feet (6 m) in a single season, this die back will help keep the vine under control.
Tropical Passion Flowers need full sun and well drained soil. Two applications of a well-balanced fertilizer per year, once in early spring and one in midsummer is all the Passion Flower care you’ll need.
If you live in an area where winters are too harsh for tender Passion Flower care, don’t despair. Growing Passion Flowers indoors is as easy as finding a big pot and a window with bright light. Plant your vine in a rich commercial indoor potting soil and keep it uniformly moist, not wet.
Move your plant outdoors after all danger of frost is past and let your vine run wild. Come fall, cut back the growth to a reasonable height and bring it back indoors. Knowing how to grow Passion Flower is all it takes to bring a little of the tropics to your patio or porch.
0
0
文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月27日
Ten-foot giant Sunflowers (Helianthus annuus) really can be grown in plant containers (even in small 3-gallon nursery pots). These beautiful native American flowers must be planted in full sun, or they can topple over while trying to reach sun. But growing these beauties in your balcony container garden will attract attention from the people in your neighborhood, as well as a lot of wildlife. The Sunflower’s floret patterns (what eventually turn into seeds) are displayed on the circular flower head in an amazing spiral pattern. This, in addition to making a beautiful flower display, ensures that the most seeds are crammed into the Sunflower’s flower head as possible.
Sunflowers bloom from mid-summer to early fall, and their flower heads are heliotropic, meaning they follow the sun across the sky. But once the Sunflower plant’s stem stiffens and becomes woody (around the time of its bloom), the flower stops following the sun. Although most Sunflowers grow to about 10 feet (3 m), the tallest Sunflower grew to 40 feet (12 m). After planting seeds, expect Sunflowers to be full-grown and blooming within about 3 months. Sunflowers attract wild birds, butterflies and beneficial insects to the balcony garden.
Growing Conditions and General Care
Light: Sunflowers need full sun for 6 to 8 hours each day.
Water: When it comes to watering the Sunflower plant, add one inch of water per week. Compensate if the potting soil dries out from heat or sun.
Fertilizer: Fertilize your Sunflowers regularly with a high-nitrogen liquid plant fertilizer. When a flower head begins to form, switch to a liquid fertilizer with more phosphorous to promote a more spectacular Sunflower bloom.
Temperature: The Sunflower is an annual plant, so you do not need to worry about overwintering this plant indoors. The most important thing to remember with Sunflowers and temperature is to not plant them outdoors until the last frost has passed. If you experience a very hot, dry day, make sure to give extra water to your Sunflower so it does not dry out too much and die.
Pests and Diseases
While Sunflower plants are generally very healthy and immune to common garden pests and diseases, you will find wild birds and squirrels snacking on Sunflower seeds. When you harvest the giant Sunflower heads, make sure to keep them in an area where animals cannot eat the seeds. You may want to leave the heads on the stalk to attract birds to your garden.
Propagation
Collect seeds after allowing the Sunflower to completely dry out (but beware, the flowers won’t look very appealing at this point). Then cut the Sunflower head off and hang it upside down until the seeds dry out. Eat the Sunflower seeds yourself, feed them to wild birds or save them for the next gardening season. Plant Sunflower seeds 1 inch (2.5 cm) deep into the potting soil, and they should germinate within 5 to 10 days.
Sunflowers bloom from mid-summer to early fall, and their flower heads are heliotropic, meaning they follow the sun across the sky. But once the Sunflower plant’s stem stiffens and becomes woody (around the time of its bloom), the flower stops following the sun. Although most Sunflowers grow to about 10 feet (3 m), the tallest Sunflower grew to 40 feet (12 m). After planting seeds, expect Sunflowers to be full-grown and blooming within about 3 months. Sunflowers attract wild birds, butterflies and beneficial insects to the balcony garden.
Growing Conditions and General Care
Light: Sunflowers need full sun for 6 to 8 hours each day.
Water: When it comes to watering the Sunflower plant, add one inch of water per week. Compensate if the potting soil dries out from heat or sun.
Fertilizer: Fertilize your Sunflowers regularly with a high-nitrogen liquid plant fertilizer. When a flower head begins to form, switch to a liquid fertilizer with more phosphorous to promote a more spectacular Sunflower bloom.
Temperature: The Sunflower is an annual plant, so you do not need to worry about overwintering this plant indoors. The most important thing to remember with Sunflowers and temperature is to not plant them outdoors until the last frost has passed. If you experience a very hot, dry day, make sure to give extra water to your Sunflower so it does not dry out too much and die.
Pests and Diseases
While Sunflower plants are generally very healthy and immune to common garden pests and diseases, you will find wild birds and squirrels snacking on Sunflower seeds. When you harvest the giant Sunflower heads, make sure to keep them in an area where animals cannot eat the seeds. You may want to leave the heads on the stalk to attract birds to your garden.
Propagation
Collect seeds after allowing the Sunflower to completely dry out (but beware, the flowers won’t look very appealing at this point). Then cut the Sunflower head off and hang it upside down until the seeds dry out. Eat the Sunflower seeds yourself, feed them to wild birds or save them for the next gardening season. Plant Sunflower seeds 1 inch (2.5 cm) deep into the potting soil, and they should germinate within 5 to 10 days.
0
0
文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月27日
Flower gardens can turn an ordinary area into a colorful showcase or create a border that pops. Whether you choose an easy to manage perennial or a particularly touchy annual, growing flowers is a rewarding addition to any yard or landscape.
Choosing Flowers
Selecting the right plants for your flower garden is often a matter of preference, but with so many species and varieties available it can be mind-boggling. Consider the following when designing a garden: hardiness, color, fragrance, height, time of bloom and size of plant. Do you want to attract hummingbirds, butterflies or song birds? Or are you trying to create a work of beauty just for you?
It is also imperative to think about your growing space. Is it in full sun? Partial shade? Is your soil well-drained and loamy? Or will your plant roots have to fight through clay soil?
Once you have determined what you want in a flower and what kind of environment you can provide, planting and caring for flowers in your garden becomes fun.
There’s no problem finding plants that love full sun, but if you are looking for flowering plants that can handle partial or total shade consider these plants — Primroses, Hosta, Astilbe and Trollius (perennials) and Impatiens, Viola, Pansies, Begonias, Coleus and Fuchsia (annuals).
For plants that have pretty flowers and also double as herbs, consider Catnip, Thyme, Chamomile, Mint, Rosemary, Parsley, Dill, and Fennel for partially shaded areas and Sweet Woodruff, Angelica, Chervil, and Sweet Cicely for areas in full shade.
Perennial Plants
Perennials come back year after year, growing in stature and size until they reach maturity. Some perennials lose their vigor after 3-4 years and may need to be replaced. One advantage to perennial flowers — beyond the fact that they do not require replanting every year — is that they can be divided and planted throughout the garden.
Perennial flowering plants can be started from seed or purchased as starts in a variety of sizes.
Soil preparation is very important when growing perennials, because they will not be relocated. Perennials will likely require pruning and feeding. Also, consider how big the plant will be after a couple years and leave enough room for it to fill out.
Annual Plants
An annual completes its life-cycle in one year, and must be replanted. However, if left to go to seed, many annual flowers will reseed themselves — you just don’t get to decide exactly where they’re planted. Some annuals are technically perennials (such as Snapdragons) in areas with a year round growing season, but are treated as annuals in places that frost and freeze.
Unless you live in an area with a very long growing season, or you want to start seeds indoors, annuals are best purchased as starts that can be transplanted right into the garden.
As long as the soil is reasonably rich in nutrients, most annuals are not too picky about where they are planted.
Preparing the Soil
Whether planting perennials or annuals, preparing the soil in advance will help your plants flourish. Annuals will probably be less choosey about where they live since they will only be around for about a year. However, the better the growing conditions, the better the plant will fare.
If you are starting with a bare or weedy spot of land, you’ll need to start at the beginning. Determine the area for your flower bed and start digging. Remove all surface weeds along with rocks and roots.
Next, dig some more — double dig that is. To double dig a garden bed, dig a trench the width of the garden to 2 shovel depths. Set the soil off to the side. Then, dig another trench next to the first one, dumping the soil into the first trench. Continue this process until the new garden space is completed. (Use the soil from the first trench to fill in the last trench.) For an added kick mix organic compost into the trenches as you refill them.
Planting
When starting plants from seed, be sure that your soil has been adequately prepared. Dig a small hole in the ground according to the directions on the seed packet (usually about twice the depth of the seed) and drop in a couple of seeds. Cover with soil and water gently, but thoroughly. Be sure to keep the soil moist as the seed sprouts.
Many flowers are started in a greenhouse before moving to the garden. Whether you grow your own seedlings or purchase them from a garden store, be sure to harden them off first.
Next, dig a hole as deep as your seedling (including it’s root mass) and twice as wide. If your garden soil is mediocre, this is a great time to throw some compost or organic fertilizer into the hole. Loosen the root ball and place the seedling gently into the hole. Add enough soil or planting medium to fill in. Tamp the soil down gently and water thoroughly.
Garden Maintenance
Perennials
The first year, add about 2 inches (5 cm) of mulch right up to the plant crown to help retain moisture, keep weeds at bay and moderate soil temperatures. Each year add additional mulch without exceeding a depth of 2 inches (5 cm).
Water on average an inch (2.5 cm) per week the first year. Check the requirements for specific plants, as watering needs will vary depending on species and location. Deep, but less frequent watering encourages the plant to develop deeper roots, which will aid it in surviving drought conditions (or lackadaisical watering). An easy way to water perennials is to bury a soaker hose beneath the mulch. In the following years, perennials will require less water.
Perennials planted in good soil will not require much fertilization. Adding a good organic bloom fertilizer and some compost at the beginning of each growing season should be sufficient. Perennials grown in poor soil will benefit from occasional foliar applications of fertilizer — as always, read the instructions on the label for recommended application rates.
Dividing plants is a great way to get new (free!) flowers for the garden, share plants with friends, or create more space. Dividing perennials is good for the health of the plant as well. The best time to divide flowers is early fall or early spring when the plant is dormant.
Before dividing a plant, prepare the garden soil by adding compost or an organic fertilizer.
Lift the plant you plan to divide, being careful not to damage the roots. Shake off loose soil gently and remove any dead material. Using your hands, a fork, a knife or a garden spade, separate the plants.
Throw the center of the clump into the compost pile if it is weak, woody or dead. Then divide the vigorous parts of the plant into 3-5 shoots each.
Dig a hole in the prepared soil and place the divided plant in the hole. Fill with soil and firmly tamp it down. Water thoroughly and continue watering deeply throughout the first growing season.
If dividing in the fall, add mulch after several frosts have past and the temperature of the soil drops.
Annuals
Annual flowers require a bit more after plant care than established perennials. Water annuals about 0.5 to 1 inch (1.3 to 2.5 cm) per week, depending on rainfall. A rain gauge can help determine how much water your flowers are getting. To prevent fungal diseases, water in the early morning hours to give plants time to dry out during the day.
Use an organic plant food according to the directions on the label — too much fertilizer can burn flowers, while too little may lead to yellowing leaves and weak plants. Annuals will likely only need one or two fertilizer applications during the growing season, unless they are planted in containers where they will benefit from additional fertilization.
Apply 2 to 3 inches (5 to 7.5 cm) of organic mulch around the plants after they are planted. This will help conserve water, inhibit weeds and keep the soil cool. Mulch also looks nice! Shredded leaves, bark chips, compost, dry grass clippings, hulls, or pine needles can all be used as mulch. In the fall, mix the mulch into the soil to improve it.
Deadhead (pick, snip, prune, pinch, cut, etc. dying flowers) as needed. If the plant produces seeds it will “think” it’s job is done and stop producing flowers. Deadheading tricks the plant into growing more blooms. The only drawback of deadheading is that you are also removing the seeds. Some people prefer to leave spent flowers on the plant at the end of the growing season to encourage natural reseeding, others may collect and store seeds for the following year.
Choosing Flowers
Selecting the right plants for your flower garden is often a matter of preference, but with so many species and varieties available it can be mind-boggling. Consider the following when designing a garden: hardiness, color, fragrance, height, time of bloom and size of plant. Do you want to attract hummingbirds, butterflies or song birds? Or are you trying to create a work of beauty just for you?
It is also imperative to think about your growing space. Is it in full sun? Partial shade? Is your soil well-drained and loamy? Or will your plant roots have to fight through clay soil?
Once you have determined what you want in a flower and what kind of environment you can provide, planting and caring for flowers in your garden becomes fun.
There’s no problem finding plants that love full sun, but if you are looking for flowering plants that can handle partial or total shade consider these plants — Primroses, Hosta, Astilbe and Trollius (perennials) and Impatiens, Viola, Pansies, Begonias, Coleus and Fuchsia (annuals).
For plants that have pretty flowers and also double as herbs, consider Catnip, Thyme, Chamomile, Mint, Rosemary, Parsley, Dill, and Fennel for partially shaded areas and Sweet Woodruff, Angelica, Chervil, and Sweet Cicely for areas in full shade.
Perennial Plants
Perennials come back year after year, growing in stature and size until they reach maturity. Some perennials lose their vigor after 3-4 years and may need to be replaced. One advantage to perennial flowers — beyond the fact that they do not require replanting every year — is that they can be divided and planted throughout the garden.
Perennial flowering plants can be started from seed or purchased as starts in a variety of sizes.
Soil preparation is very important when growing perennials, because they will not be relocated. Perennials will likely require pruning and feeding. Also, consider how big the plant will be after a couple years and leave enough room for it to fill out.
Annual Plants
An annual completes its life-cycle in one year, and must be replanted. However, if left to go to seed, many annual flowers will reseed themselves — you just don’t get to decide exactly where they’re planted. Some annuals are technically perennials (such as Snapdragons) in areas with a year round growing season, but are treated as annuals in places that frost and freeze.
Unless you live in an area with a very long growing season, or you want to start seeds indoors, annuals are best purchased as starts that can be transplanted right into the garden.
As long as the soil is reasonably rich in nutrients, most annuals are not too picky about where they are planted.
Preparing the Soil
Whether planting perennials or annuals, preparing the soil in advance will help your plants flourish. Annuals will probably be less choosey about where they live since they will only be around for about a year. However, the better the growing conditions, the better the plant will fare.
If you are starting with a bare or weedy spot of land, you’ll need to start at the beginning. Determine the area for your flower bed and start digging. Remove all surface weeds along with rocks and roots.
Next, dig some more — double dig that is. To double dig a garden bed, dig a trench the width of the garden to 2 shovel depths. Set the soil off to the side. Then, dig another trench next to the first one, dumping the soil into the first trench. Continue this process until the new garden space is completed. (Use the soil from the first trench to fill in the last trench.) For an added kick mix organic compost into the trenches as you refill them.
Planting
When starting plants from seed, be sure that your soil has been adequately prepared. Dig a small hole in the ground according to the directions on the seed packet (usually about twice the depth of the seed) and drop in a couple of seeds. Cover with soil and water gently, but thoroughly. Be sure to keep the soil moist as the seed sprouts.
Many flowers are started in a greenhouse before moving to the garden. Whether you grow your own seedlings or purchase them from a garden store, be sure to harden them off first.
Next, dig a hole as deep as your seedling (including it’s root mass) and twice as wide. If your garden soil is mediocre, this is a great time to throw some compost or organic fertilizer into the hole. Loosen the root ball and place the seedling gently into the hole. Add enough soil or planting medium to fill in. Tamp the soil down gently and water thoroughly.
Garden Maintenance
Perennials
The first year, add about 2 inches (5 cm) of mulch right up to the plant crown to help retain moisture, keep weeds at bay and moderate soil temperatures. Each year add additional mulch without exceeding a depth of 2 inches (5 cm).
Water on average an inch (2.5 cm) per week the first year. Check the requirements for specific plants, as watering needs will vary depending on species and location. Deep, but less frequent watering encourages the plant to develop deeper roots, which will aid it in surviving drought conditions (or lackadaisical watering). An easy way to water perennials is to bury a soaker hose beneath the mulch. In the following years, perennials will require less water.
Perennials planted in good soil will not require much fertilization. Adding a good organic bloom fertilizer and some compost at the beginning of each growing season should be sufficient. Perennials grown in poor soil will benefit from occasional foliar applications of fertilizer — as always, read the instructions on the label for recommended application rates.
Dividing plants is a great way to get new (free!) flowers for the garden, share plants with friends, or create more space. Dividing perennials is good for the health of the plant as well. The best time to divide flowers is early fall or early spring when the plant is dormant.
Before dividing a plant, prepare the garden soil by adding compost or an organic fertilizer.
Lift the plant you plan to divide, being careful not to damage the roots. Shake off loose soil gently and remove any dead material. Using your hands, a fork, a knife or a garden spade, separate the plants.
Throw the center of the clump into the compost pile if it is weak, woody or dead. Then divide the vigorous parts of the plant into 3-5 shoots each.
Dig a hole in the prepared soil and place the divided plant in the hole. Fill with soil and firmly tamp it down. Water thoroughly and continue watering deeply throughout the first growing season.
If dividing in the fall, add mulch after several frosts have past and the temperature of the soil drops.
Annuals
Annual flowers require a bit more after plant care than established perennials. Water annuals about 0.5 to 1 inch (1.3 to 2.5 cm) per week, depending on rainfall. A rain gauge can help determine how much water your flowers are getting. To prevent fungal diseases, water in the early morning hours to give plants time to dry out during the day.
Use an organic plant food according to the directions on the label — too much fertilizer can burn flowers, while too little may lead to yellowing leaves and weak plants. Annuals will likely only need one or two fertilizer applications during the growing season, unless they are planted in containers where they will benefit from additional fertilization.
Apply 2 to 3 inches (5 to 7.5 cm) of organic mulch around the plants after they are planted. This will help conserve water, inhibit weeds and keep the soil cool. Mulch also looks nice! Shredded leaves, bark chips, compost, dry grass clippings, hulls, or pine needles can all be used as mulch. In the fall, mix the mulch into the soil to improve it.
Deadhead (pick, snip, prune, pinch, cut, etc. dying flowers) as needed. If the plant produces seeds it will “think” it’s job is done and stop producing flowers. Deadheading tricks the plant into growing more blooms. The only drawback of deadheading is that you are also removing the seeds. Some people prefer to leave spent flowers on the plant at the end of the growing season to encourage natural reseeding, others may collect and store seeds for the following year.
0
0
文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月27日
Whether displaying bright orange or sunny yellow flowers, Calendula (also called Pot Marigold) is one of the most essential parts of your garden medicine chest. The aromatic heads of these spring flowers can be collected and made into oils and salves to help heal skin injuries of all kinds. Make sure you grow only Calendula officinalis and not just any of the many marigolds or ornamental varieties that are available. Read on to learn the specifics for growing and caring for these delicate and beneficial flowers.
Growing
Calendula can grow to almost 2 feet (60 cm) tall, and the flowers tend to open with sunny, dry weather and close in cold or moist conditions. They enjoy full sun (or even partial shade in hot summer regions) and average soil, and have moderate water needs. If flower production dwindles, you can cut back the plants to increase new flower production. Calendula will self-sow yearly in many gardens and don’t mind crowding. Direct-sow the seeds in early spring or late fall, as they can withstand some frost.
Harvesting
Collect the flower heads on hot, sunny days for the highest resin content, and pick them regularly to prevent the plants from putting their energy into seed production. Once that happens, the rest of the flowers will be smaller. Choose flowers that are just opening in the morning before noon, and dry Calendula quickly after you harvest it. Check the center of the flower for dryness because molding in storage is a problem. Watch for reabsorption of moisture and keep it in complete darkness.
Healing Properties
Use the entire flower head, not just the petals, in preparations for healing cuts, scrapes, burns, diaper rash, sores, ulcers, varicose veins, chapped skin and lips, and insect bites. Salves, oils, creams, and other preparations can be found in drugstores and natural food stores alike. Science shows that extracts of the flower heads have anti-inflammatory and antibacterial effects. And herbalists have long recommended tea infusions of Calendula to help heal ulcers in the digestive tract, soothe gallbladder inflammation, and treat enlarged, sore lymph glands.
Preparations
Use the freshly dried flower heads to make creams, salves, liniments, teas, tinctures, and oils, or add the flower heads directly to your bath to soothe irritated skin. For internal conditions, take 1 to 3 dropperfuls of tincture in a little water several times daily (though be sure to check with your healthcare professional first).
Safety
As with other members of the Daisy family, some people are sensitive to Calendula because of the sesquiterpene compounds that the plants contain. If you tend to have allergic skin reactions or are sensitive to certain foods, start with a low dose of this herb and work up to a full dose if you don’t experience any reaction.
Growing
Calendula can grow to almost 2 feet (60 cm) tall, and the flowers tend to open with sunny, dry weather and close in cold or moist conditions. They enjoy full sun (or even partial shade in hot summer regions) and average soil, and have moderate water needs. If flower production dwindles, you can cut back the plants to increase new flower production. Calendula will self-sow yearly in many gardens and don’t mind crowding. Direct-sow the seeds in early spring or late fall, as they can withstand some frost.
Harvesting
Collect the flower heads on hot, sunny days for the highest resin content, and pick them regularly to prevent the plants from putting their energy into seed production. Once that happens, the rest of the flowers will be smaller. Choose flowers that are just opening in the morning before noon, and dry Calendula quickly after you harvest it. Check the center of the flower for dryness because molding in storage is a problem. Watch for reabsorption of moisture and keep it in complete darkness.
Healing Properties
Use the entire flower head, not just the petals, in preparations for healing cuts, scrapes, burns, diaper rash, sores, ulcers, varicose veins, chapped skin and lips, and insect bites. Salves, oils, creams, and other preparations can be found in drugstores and natural food stores alike. Science shows that extracts of the flower heads have anti-inflammatory and antibacterial effects. And herbalists have long recommended tea infusions of Calendula to help heal ulcers in the digestive tract, soothe gallbladder inflammation, and treat enlarged, sore lymph glands.
Preparations
Use the freshly dried flower heads to make creams, salves, liniments, teas, tinctures, and oils, or add the flower heads directly to your bath to soothe irritated skin. For internal conditions, take 1 to 3 dropperfuls of tincture in a little water several times daily (though be sure to check with your healthcare professional first).
Safety
As with other members of the Daisy family, some people are sensitive to Calendula because of the sesquiterpene compounds that the plants contain. If you tend to have allergic skin reactions or are sensitive to certain foods, start with a low dose of this herb and work up to a full dose if you don’t experience any reaction.
0
1
文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月27日
Aster is a large genus of 250 species of annuals, biennials, perennials, and subshrubs from many different kinds of habitats, mainly in North America. The flowers resemble small daisies, with yellow disk florets, and white, pink, blue, or purple ray florets. The leaves are generally alternate, simple, and lance-shaped. There is an Aster for most any type of garden, including borders, rock gardens, waterside plantings, dry areas, and wildflower gardens.
Care for your Asters with some basic rules of thumb, and be rewarded with spectacular blossoms in a variety of colors. Planting these wonderful stars (aster is Greek for star) will uplift and brighten your fall garden. Ranging from 8 inches to almost 8 feet (20 cm to almost 2.4 m), these flowers make good border plants, but be careful of mildew diseases that attack them.
Growing Conditions and General Care
Divide mature plants in spring, just as the new shoots begin to grow. This should be done every few years to avoid crowding of plants.
As with many other flowering plants, dead head (cut back spent flowers) to make room for newer blossoms. This will extend the health and flowering of your plants. Be sure to dead head early on in the blooming season. Blooming will be reduced if done too late. This will also restrain unwanted reseeding which will cause plant overcrowding.
Remember, Asters are prone to mildew so be careful to plant them in areas with good circulation and good sun exposure.
As with other flowering plants, do not allow water to saturate leaves. Be sure to water at the plant’s roots to prevent mildew and mold. Drip irrigation and utilization of a soaker hose work very well in watering these plants.
Propagating
Asters can be grown indoors or may be sown into the garden directly (providing danger of frost is well past). Plant them in early spring, preparing gardens with a tiller to loosen soil. Sow the seeds approximately 1 foot (30 cm) deep into a mixture of compost and garden soil. Germination usually occurs after approximately 1 month.
Plant in well-drained, moist soil in either partial shade or morning sun. Some varieties can be planted in full sun, but this varies, so be sure to check planting instructions. Compost, peat moss or mulch will retain moisture, control weeds and ensure plants have sufficient nutrients.
Your hole for transplanting asters should be twice as wide and deep as the plant’s container. Plant the crown of the aster even with the ground level. Plant and thin plants to at least 18 inches (45 cm) apart to avoid overcrowding.
Strategies
In addition to accenting rock gardens, grow your Asters in succession, so that have an ongoing blooming season. Planting Asters will also deter some insects in your garden. Plant them throughout your garden to limit pesticide use.
Asters attract butterflies, which will enhance the beauty of your garden.
Unlike marigolds and similar plants, Aster seedlings are unlike the parent plant and may not be desirable to allow to reproduce. Remove the flower stems before they set seed to prevent this cycle from occurring.
Water Asters as directed, but remember that they are considered a “drought tolerant” plant and do not like standing water.
Care for your Asters with some basic rules of thumb, and be rewarded with spectacular blossoms in a variety of colors. Planting these wonderful stars (aster is Greek for star) will uplift and brighten your fall garden. Ranging from 8 inches to almost 8 feet (20 cm to almost 2.4 m), these flowers make good border plants, but be careful of mildew diseases that attack them.
Growing Conditions and General Care
Divide mature plants in spring, just as the new shoots begin to grow. This should be done every few years to avoid crowding of plants.
As with many other flowering plants, dead head (cut back spent flowers) to make room for newer blossoms. This will extend the health and flowering of your plants. Be sure to dead head early on in the blooming season. Blooming will be reduced if done too late. This will also restrain unwanted reseeding which will cause plant overcrowding.
Remember, Asters are prone to mildew so be careful to plant them in areas with good circulation and good sun exposure.
As with other flowering plants, do not allow water to saturate leaves. Be sure to water at the plant’s roots to prevent mildew and mold. Drip irrigation and utilization of a soaker hose work very well in watering these plants.
Propagating
Asters can be grown indoors or may be sown into the garden directly (providing danger of frost is well past). Plant them in early spring, preparing gardens with a tiller to loosen soil. Sow the seeds approximately 1 foot (30 cm) deep into a mixture of compost and garden soil. Germination usually occurs after approximately 1 month.
Plant in well-drained, moist soil in either partial shade or morning sun. Some varieties can be planted in full sun, but this varies, so be sure to check planting instructions. Compost, peat moss or mulch will retain moisture, control weeds and ensure plants have sufficient nutrients.
Your hole for transplanting asters should be twice as wide and deep as the plant’s container. Plant the crown of the aster even with the ground level. Plant and thin plants to at least 18 inches (45 cm) apart to avoid overcrowding.
Strategies
In addition to accenting rock gardens, grow your Asters in succession, so that have an ongoing blooming season. Planting Asters will also deter some insects in your garden. Plant them throughout your garden to limit pesticide use.
Asters attract butterflies, which will enhance the beauty of your garden.
Unlike marigolds and similar plants, Aster seedlings are unlike the parent plant and may not be desirable to allow to reproduce. Remove the flower stems before they set seed to prevent this cycle from occurring.
Water Asters as directed, but remember that they are considered a “drought tolerant” plant and do not like standing water.
0
0
文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月27日
Ludwigia sedoides, commonly known as Mosaic Plant, Mosaic Flower and False Loosestrife, is a herbaceous perennial plant of the family Onagraceae. It has yellow flowers that bloom from June to August.
This floating Ludwigia is native to Central and South America, where it can be found growing in stagnant waters as well as in sections of riverine environments that are free of current. It is a very common pond plant in warm climates or ponds in conservatories. Cultivation in an aquarium is a bit more complicated.
Growing Conditions and General Care
Above all else, this floating stem plant requires light. Even values in the higher range of what is possible over a planted aquarium are often not enough. Outdoor culture in a well-lit pond or tub is sometimes the only way to achieve satisfactory growth with this species. Heavy fertilization with macro- and micronutrients is essential (if enough light is available) to produce attractive growth. Yellow flowers form on the floating rosettes if the plant is achieving good growth.
Winter hardy to USDA Zone 10. In St. Louis, grow as an annual in containers covered with 6 to 18 inches (15 to 45 cm) of water in full sun to part shade. Plants can be difficult to overwinter indoors.
Although the usefulness of this species in the aquascape is markedly limited, its beautiful circles of reddish foliage can lend a unique texture to outdoor ponds.
Propagation
Propagation can be carried out by snipping off a rosette, with a section of stem attached, from the main stem. The main part of the stem is left in the tank. A new rosette will develop on it after a short while.
This floating Ludwigia is native to Central and South America, where it can be found growing in stagnant waters as well as in sections of riverine environments that are free of current. It is a very common pond plant in warm climates or ponds in conservatories. Cultivation in an aquarium is a bit more complicated.
Growing Conditions and General Care
Above all else, this floating stem plant requires light. Even values in the higher range of what is possible over a planted aquarium are often not enough. Outdoor culture in a well-lit pond or tub is sometimes the only way to achieve satisfactory growth with this species. Heavy fertilization with macro- and micronutrients is essential (if enough light is available) to produce attractive growth. Yellow flowers form on the floating rosettes if the plant is achieving good growth.
Winter hardy to USDA Zone 10. In St. Louis, grow as an annual in containers covered with 6 to 18 inches (15 to 45 cm) of water in full sun to part shade. Plants can be difficult to overwinter indoors.
Although the usefulness of this species in the aquascape is markedly limited, its beautiful circles of reddish foliage can lend a unique texture to outdoor ponds.
Propagation
Propagation can be carried out by snipping off a rosette, with a section of stem attached, from the main stem. The main part of the stem is left in the tank. A new rosette will develop on it after a short while.
0
0
