文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月21日
The genus Kalanchoe includes more than 100 plants, but only a few are regularly seen in cultivation. Kalanchoes are native to arid areas, and they are popular succulents. Modern hybrids are valued for their interesting leaf-forms or for their flowers.
Flowering Kalanchoes are available in red, pink, yellow, or white. Like many succulents, these are not difficult plants to grow, providing you are careful with the water, especially in the winter.
Growing Conditions
Light: They prefer bright, sunny locations, especially in the summer growing season. During the winter, consider a south-facing window.
Water: Water moderately throughout the summer and reduce watering in the winter. Let the soil surface dry out between waterings, and in the winter, the plant can almost dry out. Watch the fleshy leaves for signs of water distress.
Temperature: They prefer warmth. Do not let fall below 55ºF (12.7ºC).
Soil: An ordinary potting soil mix is fine.
Fertilizer: Feed bi-weekly in the summer with a liquid fertilizer, or use slow-release pellets.
Propagation
Many kinds of Kalanchoe will produce tiny plantlets along the leaf margins that can be individually potted up. These types include The Air Plant (K. pinnata) and K. beharensis. The more popular K. blossfeldiana and K. manginii can be propagated by leaf cutting or tip.
Grower’s Tips
Kalanchoes are not particularly hard to grow, and the flowering varieties (K. blossfeldiana) are highly rewarding for their colorful and long-lasting flowers. Many people discard the plants after the bloom is over, but this isn’t really necessary. Simply cut off the flowering head, let the plant rest with reduced water, and resume its normal care. It should flower naturally in spring. Professional growers force Kalanchoes to bloom throughout the year (they are a short-day plant). The two pendant Kalanchoes make excellent hanging plants.
Flowering Kalanchoes are available in red, pink, yellow, or white. Like many succulents, these are not difficult plants to grow, providing you are careful with the water, especially in the winter.
Growing Conditions
Light: They prefer bright, sunny locations, especially in the summer growing season. During the winter, consider a south-facing window.
Water: Water moderately throughout the summer and reduce watering in the winter. Let the soil surface dry out between waterings, and in the winter, the plant can almost dry out. Watch the fleshy leaves for signs of water distress.
Temperature: They prefer warmth. Do not let fall below 55ºF (12.7ºC).
Soil: An ordinary potting soil mix is fine.
Fertilizer: Feed bi-weekly in the summer with a liquid fertilizer, or use slow-release pellets.
Propagation
Many kinds of Kalanchoe will produce tiny plantlets along the leaf margins that can be individually potted up. These types include The Air Plant (K. pinnata) and K. beharensis. The more popular K. blossfeldiana and K. manginii can be propagated by leaf cutting or tip.
Grower’s Tips
Kalanchoes are not particularly hard to grow, and the flowering varieties (K. blossfeldiana) are highly rewarding for their colorful and long-lasting flowers. Many people discard the plants after the bloom is over, but this isn’t really necessary. Simply cut off the flowering head, let the plant rest with reduced water, and resume its normal care. It should flower naturally in spring. Professional growers force Kalanchoes to bloom throughout the year (they are a short-day plant). The two pendant Kalanchoes make excellent hanging plants.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月21日
Adenium obesum also known as Desert Rose, is a striking plant with swollen succulent stems and deep red flowers. The plant is deciduous in cooler winters, but it can be kept in leaf provided there is sufficient warmth and light water. There is no part of these plants that doesn’t command interest, from the dramatically swollen stems on older plants to the bright flowers to the tight clusters of narrow, green leaves.
Beware, though, the sap of the Desert Rose is poisonous and should never come into contact with children or pets. If you get sap on yourself while handling the plant, wash your hands immediately.
Growing Conditions
Light: Full sun. Perfect for a sunny window.
Water: Water during the summer and spring. Reduce water in the winter, but keep hydrated enough to retain its leaves.
Temperature: Keep at least 50ºF (10ºC) at all times; if you keep temperatures of 60ºF (16ºC) or higher during the winter, the plant may retain its leaves.
Soil: A well-drained succulent mix, with an ideal pH around 6.0 (slightly acidic).
Fertilizer: Fertilize during spring and summer with controlled-release fertilizer or liquid fertilizer according to label directions.
Propagation
Typically by seed. If your plant develops a seed pod, plant the seeds as soon as possible after the pod ripens to maximize chances of germination. The Desert Rose can be propagated from branch cuttings, but these plants often fail to develop the characteristic (and highly desired) bulbous stem.
Repotting
Repot as needed, preferably during the warm season. To repot a succulent, make sure the soil is dry before repotting, then gently remove the plant from the pot. Knock away the old soil from the roots, making sure to remove any rotted or dead roots in the process. Treat any cuts with a fungicide and antibacterial solution. Place the plant in its new pot and backfill with potting soil, spreading the roots out as you repot. Leave the plant dry for a week or so, then begin to water lightly to reduce the risk of root rot.
Grower’s Tips
These are not difficult plants to grow well, provided they get enough sunlight and warmth. Like all succulents, they cannot tolerate sitting in water, and if you err, do it on the side of too little water. Use a specialized soil mix designed for cacti and succulents.
Beware, though, the sap of the Desert Rose is poisonous and should never come into contact with children or pets. If you get sap on yourself while handling the plant, wash your hands immediately.
Growing Conditions
Light: Full sun. Perfect for a sunny window.
Water: Water during the summer and spring. Reduce water in the winter, but keep hydrated enough to retain its leaves.
Temperature: Keep at least 50ºF (10ºC) at all times; if you keep temperatures of 60ºF (16ºC) or higher during the winter, the plant may retain its leaves.
Soil: A well-drained succulent mix, with an ideal pH around 6.0 (slightly acidic).
Fertilizer: Fertilize during spring and summer with controlled-release fertilizer or liquid fertilizer according to label directions.
Propagation
Typically by seed. If your plant develops a seed pod, plant the seeds as soon as possible after the pod ripens to maximize chances of germination. The Desert Rose can be propagated from branch cuttings, but these plants often fail to develop the characteristic (and highly desired) bulbous stem.
Repotting
Repot as needed, preferably during the warm season. To repot a succulent, make sure the soil is dry before repotting, then gently remove the plant from the pot. Knock away the old soil from the roots, making sure to remove any rotted or dead roots in the process. Treat any cuts with a fungicide and antibacterial solution. Place the plant in its new pot and backfill with potting soil, spreading the roots out as you repot. Leave the plant dry for a week or so, then begin to water lightly to reduce the risk of root rot.
Grower’s Tips
These are not difficult plants to grow well, provided they get enough sunlight and warmth. Like all succulents, they cannot tolerate sitting in water, and if you err, do it on the side of too little water. Use a specialized soil mix designed for cacti and succulents.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月21日
Gasteria is a relatively rare, Aloe-like succulent that goes by the unfortunate name of Ox Tongue (at least the Gasteria verrucosa species). Perhaps even more unfortunately, the plant is named for the sac-like shape of its flowers, which are supposed to resemble a stomach (get it … Gasteria?). The genus is native to South Africa, where they grow in lightly shaded conditions with excellent drainage. As a result, they are adapted to relatively lower light conditions than some more well-known succulents and are good houseplants.
Depending on the species, Gasteria leaves are often marked with interesting patterns and coloration. One species, Gasteria verrucosa (G. carinata var. verrucosa), has wart-like protrusions on its leaves.
Growing Conditions
Light: Bright light, but not direct sunlight. These grow in similar conditions to Haworthia succulents. White or yellow leaves usually signify too much sun.
Water: Water evenly and generously in the summer, letting the soil media dry out between waterings. In the winter, reduce watering to every other month, but do not stop watering. Never allow water to collect in between the leaves.
Temperature: Warmer summers but cool in the winter (down to 50˚F/10˚C). During warmer weather, your Gasteria leaves might turn a lighter, brighter color or the plant might flower with small, colorful sac-shaped flowers.
Soil: Use a cactus mix or very fast-draining potting soil mixed with sand.
Fertilizer: Fertilize during the summer growing season with a cactus fertilizer. Don’t feed during the winter.
Propagation
Gasteria can be propagated at repotting time using offsets from the mother plant or from leaf cuttings, depending on the species.
When taking offsets, use a sharp knife or snippers and cut as close to the mother stem as possible to including as many roots as possible, then allow the offset to dry briefly before repotting it (similar to cuttings from other succulents). Pot the offsets in a small pot, using the same soil as the mother plant, and put it a warm, bright spot and make sure to adequately water.
Repotting
Gasteria are small, shallow-rooted, and relatively slow-growing. They are often grown in small clusters in wide, shallow dishes. Over time, clusters will naturally enlarge as the mother plant sends off small plantlets. When the cluster has outgrown its dish, repot in the spring or early summer into a new wide and shallow dish with fresh potting soil. This is also the time to take offsets for propagation.
Grower’s Tips
Gasteria are often grouped with Haworthia because the plants have similar cultural requirements. Both are attractive, small succulents that can tolerate somewhat more shade than many succulents, which makes them more suitable as houseplants. Gasteria are susceptible to fungal infections, which usually appear as black spots on the leaves. These are the result of too much humidity or water on the leaves, but they should not spread too quickly. Gasteria have a natural defense mechanism against such fungal attacks and attack the invading organism and seal off the wounded spot. In general, any place where Haworthia and Aloe thrive will be hospitable to a Gasteria.
Depending on the species, Gasteria leaves are often marked with interesting patterns and coloration. One species, Gasteria verrucosa (G. carinata var. verrucosa), has wart-like protrusions on its leaves.
Growing Conditions
Light: Bright light, but not direct sunlight. These grow in similar conditions to Haworthia succulents. White or yellow leaves usually signify too much sun.
Water: Water evenly and generously in the summer, letting the soil media dry out between waterings. In the winter, reduce watering to every other month, but do not stop watering. Never allow water to collect in between the leaves.
Temperature: Warmer summers but cool in the winter (down to 50˚F/10˚C). During warmer weather, your Gasteria leaves might turn a lighter, brighter color or the plant might flower with small, colorful sac-shaped flowers.
Soil: Use a cactus mix or very fast-draining potting soil mixed with sand.
Fertilizer: Fertilize during the summer growing season with a cactus fertilizer. Don’t feed during the winter.
Propagation
Gasteria can be propagated at repotting time using offsets from the mother plant or from leaf cuttings, depending on the species.
When taking offsets, use a sharp knife or snippers and cut as close to the mother stem as possible to including as many roots as possible, then allow the offset to dry briefly before repotting it (similar to cuttings from other succulents). Pot the offsets in a small pot, using the same soil as the mother plant, and put it a warm, bright spot and make sure to adequately water.
Repotting
Gasteria are small, shallow-rooted, and relatively slow-growing. They are often grown in small clusters in wide, shallow dishes. Over time, clusters will naturally enlarge as the mother plant sends off small plantlets. When the cluster has outgrown its dish, repot in the spring or early summer into a new wide and shallow dish with fresh potting soil. This is also the time to take offsets for propagation.
Grower’s Tips
Gasteria are often grouped with Haworthia because the plants have similar cultural requirements. Both are attractive, small succulents that can tolerate somewhat more shade than many succulents, which makes them more suitable as houseplants. Gasteria are susceptible to fungal infections, which usually appear as black spots on the leaves. These are the result of too much humidity or water on the leaves, but they should not spread too quickly. Gasteria have a natural defense mechanism against such fungal attacks and attack the invading organism and seal off the wounded spot. In general, any place where Haworthia and Aloe thrive will be hospitable to a Gasteria.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月20日
Looking for a drought tolerant but lovely flower to fill in a troublesome dry area in your garden? You may want to try planting Delosperma (Ice Plants). Ice Plant flowers add a bright splash of color to the drier parts of your garden and ice plant care is easy. Keep reading to learn more about these pretty plants and how to grow an Ice Plant in your garden.
Delosperma is a succulent, perennial ground cover with daisy-like flowers. Delosperma is not called an Ice Plant because it is cold hardy, but rather because the flowers and leaves seem to shimmer as though covered in frost or ice crystals. The plants grow to be about 3 to 6 inches (7.5 to 15 cm) tall and 2 to 4 feet (5 to 10 cm) wide.
Growing Conditions
Delosperma flowers grow in USDA plant hardiness zones 5-9 and will bloom for most of the summer and fall. Their foliage is mostly evergreen and, because of this, they make a great year-round ground cover. While the plant is evergreen, it will often have some dieback of foliage in the winter.
Delospermas prefer full sun but can tolerate some light shade in the garden. Because Delosperma are succulents, they do not tolerate wet soil, though they do well in poor soils. In fact, wet soil, especially during the winter months, is likely to kill the plants. In areas where the soil stays consistently dry, this plant can become invasive, so it is best to take this into consideration when planting it.
Propagating
The Ice Plant can be propagated by division, cuttings or seeds. If propagating by division, it is best to divide the plants in the spring. Cuttings can be taken anytime in the spring, summer or fall. When grown by seeds, scatter the seeds on the surface of the soil and do not cover them, as they need light to germinate.
General Care
Once they are established, Delospermas require little maintenance. As succulents, they need very little watering and thrive in drought-like conditions. In addition, these plants need little to no fertilizing. Simply plant your Ice Plant flowers and watch them grow!
Delosperma is a succulent, perennial ground cover with daisy-like flowers. Delosperma is not called an Ice Plant because it is cold hardy, but rather because the flowers and leaves seem to shimmer as though covered in frost or ice crystals. The plants grow to be about 3 to 6 inches (7.5 to 15 cm) tall and 2 to 4 feet (5 to 10 cm) wide.
Growing Conditions
Delosperma flowers grow in USDA plant hardiness zones 5-9 and will bloom for most of the summer and fall. Their foliage is mostly evergreen and, because of this, they make a great year-round ground cover. While the plant is evergreen, it will often have some dieback of foliage in the winter.
Delospermas prefer full sun but can tolerate some light shade in the garden. Because Delosperma are succulents, they do not tolerate wet soil, though they do well in poor soils. In fact, wet soil, especially during the winter months, is likely to kill the plants. In areas where the soil stays consistently dry, this plant can become invasive, so it is best to take this into consideration when planting it.
Propagating
The Ice Plant can be propagated by division, cuttings or seeds. If propagating by division, it is best to divide the plants in the spring. Cuttings can be taken anytime in the spring, summer or fall. When grown by seeds, scatter the seeds on the surface of the soil and do not cover them, as they need light to germinate.
General Care
Once they are established, Delospermas require little maintenance. As succulents, they need very little watering and thrive in drought-like conditions. In addition, these plants need little to no fertilizing. Simply plant your Ice Plant flowers and watch them grow!
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月20日
Carpobrotus, commonly known as Pigface, Ice Plant, and Hottentot Plant, is a genus of ground-creeping plants with succulent leaves and large daisy-like flowers. The name refers to the edible fruits. It comes from the Ancient Greek karpos (“fruit”) and brota (“edible”).
The genus includes about 20 accepted species. Most are South African, endemics, but there are at least four Australian species and one South American.
Various Carpobrotus species are invasive introduced species in suitable climates throughout the world. The harm they do is variable, and sometimes hotly debated, when balanced against their value as firebreaks and as food for wildlife.
Growing Conditions
Carpobrotus is a perennial plant in its chosen zones but also thrives as an annual in colder areas. The best temperature range for the succulent is between 40 and 100 ˚F (4 – 14 ˚C), but some protection from the sun’s scorching rays may be required in the higher temperature ranges.
Growing Carpobrotus in planters prevents it from spreading in those areas where that is a concern. Freezing temperatures may cause the plant to die back, but it will resprout in spring in temperate area.
Propagation
Stem cutting is the fastest way to propagate this fast growing plants. Seeds are also available and you may start them indoors at least six weeks before the date of the last frost.
General Care
Ice plants are notoriously un-fussy. As long as their soil drains well, the soil is allowed to dry out between watering and the plant receives pinching or pruning to keep it in shape, there is little more to be done.
The only serious threats to the plant’s health are spittle bugs and some root rots and stem rots. You can avoid the rot by minimizing overhead watering during periods in which the plant will not dry off before nightfall. The bugs will remove themselves if you spray with a horticultural soap.
Growing Carpobrotus in containers is ideal, and you can overwinter them in temperate regions. Just bring the pot in and water it deeply. Cut back the plant and let it dry out and languish for the winter in a warm location. In March, resume regular watering and move the plant to a full light situation where it has some protection from burning rays. Gradually reintroduce the plant to temperatures outdoors until it can tolerate a full day outside.
The genus includes about 20 accepted species. Most are South African, endemics, but there are at least four Australian species and one South American.
Various Carpobrotus species are invasive introduced species in suitable climates throughout the world. The harm they do is variable, and sometimes hotly debated, when balanced against their value as firebreaks and as food for wildlife.
Growing Conditions
Carpobrotus is a perennial plant in its chosen zones but also thrives as an annual in colder areas. The best temperature range for the succulent is between 40 and 100 ˚F (4 – 14 ˚C), but some protection from the sun’s scorching rays may be required in the higher temperature ranges.
Growing Carpobrotus in planters prevents it from spreading in those areas where that is a concern. Freezing temperatures may cause the plant to die back, but it will resprout in spring in temperate area.
Propagation
Stem cutting is the fastest way to propagate this fast growing plants. Seeds are also available and you may start them indoors at least six weeks before the date of the last frost.
General Care
Ice plants are notoriously un-fussy. As long as their soil drains well, the soil is allowed to dry out between watering and the plant receives pinching or pruning to keep it in shape, there is little more to be done.
The only serious threats to the plant’s health are spittle bugs and some root rots and stem rots. You can avoid the rot by minimizing overhead watering during periods in which the plant will not dry off before nightfall. The bugs will remove themselves if you spray with a horticultural soap.
Growing Carpobrotus in containers is ideal, and you can overwinter them in temperate regions. Just bring the pot in and water it deeply. Cut back the plant and let it dry out and languish for the winter in a warm location. In March, resume regular watering and move the plant to a full light situation where it has some protection from burning rays. Gradually reintroduce the plant to temperatures outdoors until it can tolerate a full day outside.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月20日
Frithia are low-growing evergreen succulent perennials with erect, club-shaped leaves with a clear window at the apex, and solitary, daisy-like red to purple flowers in late winter.
The genus Frithia was established by N.E. Brown (1925), a taxonomist based at Kew Herbarium. At that stage no species were assigned to this genus and only later was a full description of Frithia pulchra given (Brown 1926). It was named after Frank Frith (1872 – 1954), a railway services gardener stationed at Park Station, Johannesburg, who took the specimens to Brown at Kew while on a visit to London. Brown named Frithia in honour of the man who brought him the specimens. The specific epithet “pulchra” is derived from the Latin “pulcher” meaning beautiful.
Growing Conditions
Light: The plant will take as much light as you can give it, but fierce sunshine could “scorch” the plant. In habitat the plant overcomes this problem by only having the leaf tips showing above the ground.
Soil: An open compost is essential and if the only pot available is a deep one fill the bottom half with coarse grit or gravel.
Water: Frithia is not shy of water and should be watered regularly during the growing season, but the water must be able to drain away quickly. Keep the plant dry in winter.
Fertilizer: When in growth feed every two or three weeks with a low nitrogen liquid fertilizer.
General Care
Frithia is a summer grower and relatively easy to cultivate. It need light sporadic watering during its winter resting period and requires moderate sprinkling in summer as it is rot prone if kept too moist when the heat turns off its growth cycle. Gritty, well drained soil, containing a small amount of organic material will keep this species happy. Frithia can be grown in pots or out of doors in a rockery. Soak the compost fully but allow it to dry out perfectly between waterings. Under-watering can lead to disastrous results, so be generous with water in summer. Nearly all problems occur as a result of overwatering and poor ventilation, especially when weather conditions are dull and cool or very humid. Keep dry in the winter. It does well in full blazing sun, as well as whit some shade in summer.
Propagation
Frithias can be sown from seed sown in a gritty sandstone medium or propagated vegetatively by division.
The genus Frithia was established by N.E. Brown (1925), a taxonomist based at Kew Herbarium. At that stage no species were assigned to this genus and only later was a full description of Frithia pulchra given (Brown 1926). It was named after Frank Frith (1872 – 1954), a railway services gardener stationed at Park Station, Johannesburg, who took the specimens to Brown at Kew while on a visit to London. Brown named Frithia in honour of the man who brought him the specimens. The specific epithet “pulchra” is derived from the Latin “pulcher” meaning beautiful.
Growing Conditions
Light: The plant will take as much light as you can give it, but fierce sunshine could “scorch” the plant. In habitat the plant overcomes this problem by only having the leaf tips showing above the ground.
Soil: An open compost is essential and if the only pot available is a deep one fill the bottom half with coarse grit or gravel.
Water: Frithia is not shy of water and should be watered regularly during the growing season, but the water must be able to drain away quickly. Keep the plant dry in winter.
Fertilizer: When in growth feed every two or three weeks with a low nitrogen liquid fertilizer.
General Care
Frithia is a summer grower and relatively easy to cultivate. It need light sporadic watering during its winter resting period and requires moderate sprinkling in summer as it is rot prone if kept too moist when the heat turns off its growth cycle. Gritty, well drained soil, containing a small amount of organic material will keep this species happy. Frithia can be grown in pots or out of doors in a rockery. Soak the compost fully but allow it to dry out perfectly between waterings. Under-watering can lead to disastrous results, so be generous with water in summer. Nearly all problems occur as a result of overwatering and poor ventilation, especially when weather conditions are dull and cool or very humid. Keep dry in the winter. It does well in full blazing sun, as well as whit some shade in summer.
Propagation
Frithias can be sown from seed sown in a gritty sandstone medium or propagated vegetatively by division.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月20日
Astrophytum is a genus of four North American cacti, all of which are found in Mexico and some of which appear in the United States as well. Known for their beauty, these are quite popular among domestic cacti for their flowering habit; their flowers are usually yellow or white. Astrophytums grow solitary bodies, but some species will become short columnar later in life if properly maintained. Some also have distinctive white flecks on their bodies.
Many of these cacti are prized: for example, Astrophytum asterias is extremely valued by the Japanese, especially the ‘Super Kabuto’ strain. However, they are extremely difficult to cultivate and are often grafted onto an Echinopsis for best results; most gardeners would be better off sticking with Astrophytum ornatum or Astrophytum myriostigma, both of which are highly rated. Astrophytums are ribbed and covered in aureoles from which sharp spines protrude, and these spines can be black or golden. They’re usually slow growing, and though mature specimens are quite impressive it can take years to nurture an Astrophytum to that level. Their free-growing flowers, however, which stick up from the apex, are quite lovely, and if properly grown these are among the more pleasant species of North American cacti.
Growing Conditions
Light: Very sunny conditions, with hours of direct sunlight every day.
Water: Astrophytums like dry conditions, with sporadic watering in the summer and then a dry winter. During the growing season, water infrequently.
Temperature: They like hot temperatures above 70˚F (21˚C) during the summer and then prefer cooler, more temperate winters.
Soil: Typical cactus potting soil should be fine, ideally one containing some loam or peat.
Fertilizer: Fertilize during the growing season with a balanced, diluted fertilizer like a 20-20-20 mixed into their water.
Propagation
They propagate by seed, and their seeds are fairly fragile: be gentle with them before planting. They also have a fairly short shelf life and need to be planted quickly after harvesting to have a reasonable chance at rooting. When planting them, make sure they’re in well-aerated soil, then seal the newly planted seeds in to help catch moisture and heat. It can help to soak seeds before they’re planted.
Repotting
Repot regularly to help them develop. Astrophytums should be repotted at the beginning of the growing season for best results, allowing them to grow into the impressive specimens for which the genus is known. Protect your hands before repotting due to their stiff spikes and lift the plant out all at once, then replace in a larger pot and backfill with soil. Don’t overwater or overfeed newly repotted cacti, as disturbances can be hard on them.
Grower’s Tips
Astrophytums are not vigorous plants and they require a lot of patience to reach their full potential. Keep regularly watering and feeding them during the growing season and repot annually to give them space to develop. They need a temperate, dry winter as well, and make sure not to overwater them to avoid rotting their roots. If given sufficient care, they will develop marvelous flowers once they reach maturity. Watch out for common cactus pests like aphids and scale, as well—these can often be taken care of by a good eco-friendly pesticide, or simply wiped away with cloth.
Many of these cacti are prized: for example, Astrophytum asterias is extremely valued by the Japanese, especially the ‘Super Kabuto’ strain. However, they are extremely difficult to cultivate and are often grafted onto an Echinopsis for best results; most gardeners would be better off sticking with Astrophytum ornatum or Astrophytum myriostigma, both of which are highly rated. Astrophytums are ribbed and covered in aureoles from which sharp spines protrude, and these spines can be black or golden. They’re usually slow growing, and though mature specimens are quite impressive it can take years to nurture an Astrophytum to that level. Their free-growing flowers, however, which stick up from the apex, are quite lovely, and if properly grown these are among the more pleasant species of North American cacti.
Growing Conditions
Light: Very sunny conditions, with hours of direct sunlight every day.
Water: Astrophytums like dry conditions, with sporadic watering in the summer and then a dry winter. During the growing season, water infrequently.
Temperature: They like hot temperatures above 70˚F (21˚C) during the summer and then prefer cooler, more temperate winters.
Soil: Typical cactus potting soil should be fine, ideally one containing some loam or peat.
Fertilizer: Fertilize during the growing season with a balanced, diluted fertilizer like a 20-20-20 mixed into their water.
Propagation
They propagate by seed, and their seeds are fairly fragile: be gentle with them before planting. They also have a fairly short shelf life and need to be planted quickly after harvesting to have a reasonable chance at rooting. When planting them, make sure they’re in well-aerated soil, then seal the newly planted seeds in to help catch moisture and heat. It can help to soak seeds before they’re planted.
Repotting
Repot regularly to help them develop. Astrophytums should be repotted at the beginning of the growing season for best results, allowing them to grow into the impressive specimens for which the genus is known. Protect your hands before repotting due to their stiff spikes and lift the plant out all at once, then replace in a larger pot and backfill with soil. Don’t overwater or overfeed newly repotted cacti, as disturbances can be hard on them.
Grower’s Tips
Astrophytums are not vigorous plants and they require a lot of patience to reach their full potential. Keep regularly watering and feeding them during the growing season and repot annually to give them space to develop. They need a temperate, dry winter as well, and make sure not to overwater them to avoid rotting their roots. If given sufficient care, they will develop marvelous flowers once they reach maturity. Watch out for common cactus pests like aphids and scale, as well—these can often be taken care of by a good eco-friendly pesticide, or simply wiped away with cloth.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月20日
Are you dreaming about adding some window boxes to your home, but lack the time and patience to pamper persnickety flowers? In the last few years, succulents of every shape and size have made their way into gardens and homes across the country, with a few setting roots in window boxes on the shady sides of homes. If you’re looking for a low-care option for your window boxes, succulents may be the answer. These plants offer interesting textures for your inner designer to mix into endless combinations and the occasional flower stalks for an unexpected splash of color.
Growing Succulents in Containers
Succulents are very unlike other plants you have grown in the past, and unlike their cousins the cacti, they don’t generally tolerate bright, direct sunlight. Their ability to tolerate drought sets them apart from more standard nursery offerings. That’s not to say that they can live without water, though. This common myth has led a lot of beginning succulent gardeners down a road paved with disappointment. Most succulents prefer moderately lit, warm and well-draining locations – if you design your window boxes with these requirements in mind, you’ll soon be graced with happy, healthy succulents.
Choose a composite window box with lots of drainage holes – succulents will absolutely not tolerate wet feet! – and fill it with a commercial cactus medium. Avoid heavy, rich soil mixes, these will only increase the risk of disease and attract pests. If temperatures in your area dip below 40 degrees Fahrenheit (40 degrees Celsius) for any significant amount of time, you may want to plan for smaller window boxes that can be brought indoors during the winter. Regardless of the size of your container, plan to water deeply once a week until October, when most succulents begin to go dormant.
Designing with Succulents
Slow-growing succulents can be packed tightly into window boxes for a very full look or spaced further apart with small stones or glass pebbles serving as a decorative mulch and doubling as anchors. Many people plant taller, larger succulents in the back of their window boxes and creeping succulents in the front to create a many layers of texture. Generously flowering creepers like Ice Plant and Moss Rose combine the texture of succulent foliage with bold flowers for a unique look as they spill over the edge of your boxes.
Although many gardeners like to mix it up, planting many different shapes, colors and sizes of succulents in the same window box, there is merit in a repeating pattern. Like tulips neatly arranged in a planter, a tidy row of Aeonium, Aloe, Echeveria or Pachyphytum can bring a sense of order to a more formal home or landscape.
Another neat trick is to arrange multiple levels of window boxes using stair risers for support. If you plant cascading succulents in the front of each box, a waterfall effect will eventually emerge to tie the many levels together visually. As long as your window box creations aren’t too wide to water properly, the sky’s the limit with succulents!
Growing Succulents in Containers
Succulents are very unlike other plants you have grown in the past, and unlike their cousins the cacti, they don’t generally tolerate bright, direct sunlight. Their ability to tolerate drought sets them apart from more standard nursery offerings. That’s not to say that they can live without water, though. This common myth has led a lot of beginning succulent gardeners down a road paved with disappointment. Most succulents prefer moderately lit, warm and well-draining locations – if you design your window boxes with these requirements in mind, you’ll soon be graced with happy, healthy succulents.
Choose a composite window box with lots of drainage holes – succulents will absolutely not tolerate wet feet! – and fill it with a commercial cactus medium. Avoid heavy, rich soil mixes, these will only increase the risk of disease and attract pests. If temperatures in your area dip below 40 degrees Fahrenheit (40 degrees Celsius) for any significant amount of time, you may want to plan for smaller window boxes that can be brought indoors during the winter. Regardless of the size of your container, plan to water deeply once a week until October, when most succulents begin to go dormant.
Designing with Succulents
Slow-growing succulents can be packed tightly into window boxes for a very full look or spaced further apart with small stones or glass pebbles serving as a decorative mulch and doubling as anchors. Many people plant taller, larger succulents in the back of their window boxes and creeping succulents in the front to create a many layers of texture. Generously flowering creepers like Ice Plant and Moss Rose combine the texture of succulent foliage with bold flowers for a unique look as they spill over the edge of your boxes.
Although many gardeners like to mix it up, planting many different shapes, colors and sizes of succulents in the same window box, there is merit in a repeating pattern. Like tulips neatly arranged in a planter, a tidy row of Aeonium, Aloe, Echeveria or Pachyphytum can bring a sense of order to a more formal home or landscape.
Another neat trick is to arrange multiple levels of window boxes using stair risers for support. If you plant cascading succulents in the front of each box, a waterfall effect will eventually emerge to tie the many levels together visually. As long as your window box creations aren’t too wide to water properly, the sky’s the limit with succulents!
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月20日
Epiphyllum (Orchid Cacti) are often grown as houseplants as they are relatively trouble-free. They produce large, showy flowers, which are usually sweetly-scented and last two days or more. Some species such as Epiphyllum oxypetalum are nocturnal – with their flowers opening during the night. Epiphyllum cacti are mostly epiphytic (they grow on other plants, but only use them as a support). They are often grown in hanging baskets to accommodate their long, pendent, leaf-like stems, but can be grown in containers.
Growing Conditions
Epiphyllum are hardy to about 50°F (10°C), but require at least 60°F (15°C) during the growing season, so are best grown in a heated greenhouse, conservatory or indoors.
Place the pots in bright, filtered light, with moderate to high humidity. To increase the humidity, position the pot on a tray filled with gravel and keep this topped up with water, but not enough so that the water reaches the surface.
Epiphyllum cacti require sharply-drained growing media. Grow them in a standard cactus compost with added grit or perlite. Alternatively, mix three parts loam-based compost, with two parts grit or perlite and one part peat-free multipurpose compost.
Pruning and Training
Overlong stems can be cut off or shortened. New shoots will usually develop just behind the cut. However, be careful not to overwater after pruning as the plant’s water requirements will be reduced.
Large Epiphyllum can become unstable in their pots. Either repot in to a heavier pot, such as terracotta, or a wider container, such as a pan. Alternatively, try using canes and tying the stems up, but this can look unsightly.
Propagation
The two most successful methods of propagation are by seed and cuttings.
Sowing seed:
Sow seed in spring or summer;
Fill a container with cactus compost and scatter the seed evenly on the surface;
Moisten the compost lightly with a fine mist sprayer;
Top-dress with a thin layer of fine grit;
Cover the pot with a clear plastic bag or place into a propagator and keep at 70°F (21°C);
Remove the covering once the seeds have germinated;
Keep the compost moist, but not wet;
Prick out when the seedlings become crowded and large enough to handle comfortably;
They will take four to seven years to flower.
Cuttings: Take stem cuttings in spring to late summer.
Cut the leaf-like stem into 15-22.5cm (6-9in) sections and let it callus (dry) for several days in a warm place;
Fill a pot one third full with cactus compost and cover with a layer of grit. Insert the cuttings 1-2 inches (2.5-5 cm) deep;
Keep the compost just moist and maintain temperature of 65-75°F (18-24°C);
They should root in three to six weeks and flower the following year, if taken early in the season.
Pests and Problems
Epiphyllum cacti are prone to several common houseplant and greenhouse problems: mealybugs, aphids and glasshouse red spider mite.
Grower’s Tips
From mid-spring until late summer, water the plants when the compost begins to dry out, but do not let the plants stand in water. Apply cactus fertiliser fortnightly. To encourage blooming, move Epiphyllum in winter into a cooler place, about 52-57°F (11-14°C) and keep the compost just moist until the flower buds form. Once this has happened, increase the temperature and resume the normal watering regime.
Growing Conditions
Epiphyllum are hardy to about 50°F (10°C), but require at least 60°F (15°C) during the growing season, so are best grown in a heated greenhouse, conservatory or indoors.
Place the pots in bright, filtered light, with moderate to high humidity. To increase the humidity, position the pot on a tray filled with gravel and keep this topped up with water, but not enough so that the water reaches the surface.
Epiphyllum cacti require sharply-drained growing media. Grow them in a standard cactus compost with added grit or perlite. Alternatively, mix three parts loam-based compost, with two parts grit or perlite and one part peat-free multipurpose compost.
Pruning and Training
Overlong stems can be cut off or shortened. New shoots will usually develop just behind the cut. However, be careful not to overwater after pruning as the plant’s water requirements will be reduced.
Large Epiphyllum can become unstable in their pots. Either repot in to a heavier pot, such as terracotta, or a wider container, such as a pan. Alternatively, try using canes and tying the stems up, but this can look unsightly.
Propagation
The two most successful methods of propagation are by seed and cuttings.
Sowing seed:
Sow seed in spring or summer;
Fill a container with cactus compost and scatter the seed evenly on the surface;
Moisten the compost lightly with a fine mist sprayer;
Top-dress with a thin layer of fine grit;
Cover the pot with a clear plastic bag or place into a propagator and keep at 70°F (21°C);
Remove the covering once the seeds have germinated;
Keep the compost moist, but not wet;
Prick out when the seedlings become crowded and large enough to handle comfortably;
They will take four to seven years to flower.
Cuttings: Take stem cuttings in spring to late summer.
Cut the leaf-like stem into 15-22.5cm (6-9in) sections and let it callus (dry) for several days in a warm place;
Fill a pot one third full with cactus compost and cover with a layer of grit. Insert the cuttings 1-2 inches (2.5-5 cm) deep;
Keep the compost just moist and maintain temperature of 65-75°F (18-24°C);
They should root in three to six weeks and flower the following year, if taken early in the season.
Pests and Problems
Epiphyllum cacti are prone to several common houseplant and greenhouse problems: mealybugs, aphids and glasshouse red spider mite.
Grower’s Tips
From mid-spring until late summer, water the plants when the compost begins to dry out, but do not let the plants stand in water. Apply cactus fertiliser fortnightly. To encourage blooming, move Epiphyllum in winter into a cooler place, about 52-57°F (11-14°C) and keep the compost just moist until the flower buds form. Once this has happened, increase the temperature and resume the normal watering regime.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月20日
Melocactus is a genus of especially aesthetically interesting cacti, distinguishable by their odd cephalium that protrudes from the top. The cephalium, which is a bristly collection of aureoles, is designed to produce flowers and fruit and can grow up to three feet tall in some cases. Cephaliums are red or white and form small pink flowers inside their mass, and their fruits are waxy and shaped like tubes.
Because of their appearance, Melocactus are popular cacti in cultivation. They are native to places with high temperatures and cannot tolerate frost: in the wild, they grow in various parts of the Caribbean, South America (especially Brazil), and Mexico. Notably, Melocactus plants only develop their distinctive look once they reach maturity.
In the beginning of their lives, their appearance is typical of most cacti—they’re globular and ribbed all over with aureoles. They only develop the cephalium once they’re fully developed, and once it begins growing it won’t stop until the plant itself dies. So they can be hard to identify before they’ve reached maturity. They can be a bit of challenge due to some specificities in their care requirements and are a better choice for experienced cactus growers: nonetheless, they are quite beautiful and extraordinary once fully grown.
Growing Conditions
Light: Lots and lots of bright sunlight is necessary for Melocactus to thrive.
Water: For cacti, they like fairly moist environments, so water regularly, especially during the growing season. Make sure not to let them sit in water to avoid rotting the roots.
Temperature: Warm tropical temperatures above seventy degrees. They cannot survive frost.
Soil: Most cactus potting mixes should work fine, ideally a well-draining mix with some organic material.
Fertilizer: Feed with a balanced, diluted fertilizer like a 20-20-20 mixed into their water during the growing season to help them develop.
Propagation
These cacti are not difficult to propagate from seed. Plant the seeds in well-aerated soil that drains well, and make sure to soak them in warm water before you do. Then seal the new seeds to keep in heat and moisture, which will help them root. Their root systems will take a little while to develop, so don’t overwater or overfeed them before they have the necessary equipment. Remember, always use fresh seed—it should be dry when you get it, before it’s soaked.
Repotting
Notably, Melocactus like to be fairly packed in, so keep them in a fairly small container that slightly constricts their roots. Repotting them at the beginning of the growing season is a good idea until they form cephaliums and the body stops growing, and they should be repotted like other cacti: by lifting the root ball out all at once, cleaning it gently, and replacing it. Make sure not to replant in too large a container to avoid damaging the plant.
Grower’s Tips
These are somewhat finicky cacti with unusual requirements. They shouldn’t be allowed to completely dry out, even in winter, and they can suffer from soil composition, drainage, water level, sun, and more factors that are difficult to control. For that reason, these plants are best for growers who already have had some success cultivating cacti. Establish a balance with good aeration matched by ample water, good soil matched by good drainage, and these plants should continue to grow. If they’re grown successfully, their unusual tops make them among the more beautiful of desert cacti.
Because of their appearance, Melocactus are popular cacti in cultivation. They are native to places with high temperatures and cannot tolerate frost: in the wild, they grow in various parts of the Caribbean, South America (especially Brazil), and Mexico. Notably, Melocactus plants only develop their distinctive look once they reach maturity.
In the beginning of their lives, their appearance is typical of most cacti—they’re globular and ribbed all over with aureoles. They only develop the cephalium once they’re fully developed, and once it begins growing it won’t stop until the plant itself dies. So they can be hard to identify before they’ve reached maturity. They can be a bit of challenge due to some specificities in their care requirements and are a better choice for experienced cactus growers: nonetheless, they are quite beautiful and extraordinary once fully grown.
Growing Conditions
Light: Lots and lots of bright sunlight is necessary for Melocactus to thrive.
Water: For cacti, they like fairly moist environments, so water regularly, especially during the growing season. Make sure not to let them sit in water to avoid rotting the roots.
Temperature: Warm tropical temperatures above seventy degrees. They cannot survive frost.
Soil: Most cactus potting mixes should work fine, ideally a well-draining mix with some organic material.
Fertilizer: Feed with a balanced, diluted fertilizer like a 20-20-20 mixed into their water during the growing season to help them develop.
Propagation
These cacti are not difficult to propagate from seed. Plant the seeds in well-aerated soil that drains well, and make sure to soak them in warm water before you do. Then seal the new seeds to keep in heat and moisture, which will help them root. Their root systems will take a little while to develop, so don’t overwater or overfeed them before they have the necessary equipment. Remember, always use fresh seed—it should be dry when you get it, before it’s soaked.
Repotting
Notably, Melocactus like to be fairly packed in, so keep them in a fairly small container that slightly constricts their roots. Repotting them at the beginning of the growing season is a good idea until they form cephaliums and the body stops growing, and they should be repotted like other cacti: by lifting the root ball out all at once, cleaning it gently, and replacing it. Make sure not to replant in too large a container to avoid damaging the plant.
Grower’s Tips
These are somewhat finicky cacti with unusual requirements. They shouldn’t be allowed to completely dry out, even in winter, and they can suffer from soil composition, drainage, water level, sun, and more factors that are difficult to control. For that reason, these plants are best for growers who already have had some success cultivating cacti. Establish a balance with good aeration matched by ample water, good soil matched by good drainage, and these plants should continue to grow. If they’re grown successfully, their unusual tops make them among the more beautiful of desert cacti.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月20日
Braunsia is a genus of succulent plant in the family Aizoaceae, occurs the southwestern part of the Western Cape Province in South Africa. The plants are shrublets or creepers, characterized by their serrated, partially fused leaves.
The beautiful flowers, ranging in color from salmon to pink to white, bloom in winter and spring, opening and closing in the afternoon. They do well in cultivation and are, for the most, not very finicky.
Growing Conditions and General Care
Braunsias are moderately slow growing succulents. Needs moderate water when growing in late fall and early spring. Keep somewhat dry the rest of the time. Like all living rocks, they thrive in porous soils with excellent drainage. It can tolerates high heat and some frost (hardy to 23° F (-5° C) or less if very dry). Braunsias are very rewarding succulents and can be cultivated in desert garden in warm climates or in greenhouses or windowsills in the home where too hardy. Enjoy bright shade in summer and full sun on the other seasons.
Propagation
They are easily propagated by seed and cuttings.
The beautiful flowers, ranging in color from salmon to pink to white, bloom in winter and spring, opening and closing in the afternoon. They do well in cultivation and are, for the most, not very finicky.
Growing Conditions and General Care
Braunsias are moderately slow growing succulents. Needs moderate water when growing in late fall and early spring. Keep somewhat dry the rest of the time. Like all living rocks, they thrive in porous soils with excellent drainage. It can tolerates high heat and some frost (hardy to 23° F (-5° C) or less if very dry). Braunsias are very rewarding succulents and can be cultivated in desert garden in warm climates or in greenhouses or windowsills in the home where too hardy. Enjoy bright shade in summer and full sun on the other seasons.
Propagation
They are easily propagated by seed and cuttings.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月20日
Uncarina is a genus of plant in family Pedaliaceae. Originating in Madagascar, the deciduous shrub may sometimes be considered a small tree as it grows to 25 feet (7.6 m) tall. Leaves are oval and green and flowers bell-shaped and tubular. Uncarina blooms easily, and when covered with flowers, it is a striking vision. The seed capsules feature small hooked harpoons.
There are about 15 species and all species are in cultivation. There are three flower colours to be found: red, white and yellow. The latter is the most common. Only one species has a true caudex, Uncarina roeoesliana. It is also the easiest one to flower; it can already flowers when still small. The rarest is Uncarina leptocarpa, the only white-flowering species.
Growing Conditions
Light: This heat resistant plant does best when grown in part shade to full sun.
Temperature: Uncarinas are tender, cannot endure temperatures below 35 2° F (2° C), if grown outdoors they will probably grow back from roots, if frozen. They are quite heat tolerant.
Water: Water abundantly when actively growing and keep dry when dormant.
Soil: Uncarina needs a rich, very well drained potting soil.
Fertilizer: Use diluted fertilizer on young plants to speed up growth.
Grower’s Tips
One reason that Uncarinas are not common in cultivation is that the seed does not germinate easily. Why this is, we do not know. Propagation by cuttings is not a substitute because they do not root easily either. In short: a difficult sort to propagate. But, once you have managed to get yourself one, it is relatively easy to grow. It needs plenty of warmth and plenty of water in the growing season, but keep it dry in the winter. In the wild they can grow up to 13 feet (4 m), but do not expect that in your greenhouse or window sill.
There are about 15 species and all species are in cultivation. There are three flower colours to be found: red, white and yellow. The latter is the most common. Only one species has a true caudex, Uncarina roeoesliana. It is also the easiest one to flower; it can already flowers when still small. The rarest is Uncarina leptocarpa, the only white-flowering species.
Growing Conditions
Light: This heat resistant plant does best when grown in part shade to full sun.
Temperature: Uncarinas are tender, cannot endure temperatures below 35 2° F (2° C), if grown outdoors they will probably grow back from roots, if frozen. They are quite heat tolerant.
Water: Water abundantly when actively growing and keep dry when dormant.
Soil: Uncarina needs a rich, very well drained potting soil.
Fertilizer: Use diluted fertilizer on young plants to speed up growth.
Grower’s Tips
One reason that Uncarinas are not common in cultivation is that the seed does not germinate easily. Why this is, we do not know. Propagation by cuttings is not a substitute because they do not root easily either. In short: a difficult sort to propagate. But, once you have managed to get yourself one, it is relatively easy to grow. It needs plenty of warmth and plenty of water in the growing season, but keep it dry in the winter. In the wild they can grow up to 13 feet (4 m), but do not expect that in your greenhouse or window sill.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月20日
A small genus of two species, Neowerdermannia is a genus of spiny globose cacti which are very similar to the genus Gymnocalycium. Flowers are bourne near the apex and have naked floral tubes with scales – eiter white or pink. The fruits are globose and dehiscent.
The body features ribs which are not clearly defined and broken into rather pronounced tubercles. Areoles are small at the top of the tubercles (not the ends) and give rise to as many as 20 stout spines which may be curved or even hooked.
The plants in this genus are found in Argentina, Bolivia, Chile, and Peru, though apparently not in great numbers. It is even more scarce in cultivation and grown by enthusiasts, but not commercially.
Growing Conditions
Light: Suited for sunny-brightly exposure; can tolerate light shade.
Water: Watering in the summer months, while Neowerdermannias are growing well can be frequent (weekly for small plants in small pots), but always allowing the compost nearly to dry out before rewatering. Watering in the winter months at all is unwise, and certainly not necessary. The difficult times are spring and autumn.
Temperature: Neowerdermannias are very cold resistant as low as to 14° C (-10° C) or less for short periods of time.
Soil: The balance of the potting medium should be sufficient to allow good drainage, so that the plants do not sit in soggy soil for more than a day or two after watering.
Propagation
Seeds, also can be grown from cutting or graft. Seeds can be sown in the spring or summer. The seedlings should not be disturbed until they are well rooted, after which they can be planted separately in small pots.
Pests and Problems
Neowerdermannias are especially prone to root rot, therefore, underpot in a smaller container filled with very porous compost.
Grower’s Tips
Neowerdermannias come from mountainous areas, so like bright light, cool and dry conditions in the winter; this is important for the flowers as well as for their health. Without this cool winter period 32-50° F (0-10° C) they normally won’t get many buds. They have a thick taproot and are of difficult cultivation and rot prone because of a great sensitivity to the excess of watering, not easy to get to any large size on their own roots really a challenge to grow into a large clump. Needs deep pot and good drainage to accommodate its tap root. They are commonly grafted to avoid root problems and to make easier to grow. On a graft Neowerdermannias are easier to grow, but the body splits if over-watered (especially in spring).
The body features ribs which are not clearly defined and broken into rather pronounced tubercles. Areoles are small at the top of the tubercles (not the ends) and give rise to as many as 20 stout spines which may be curved or even hooked.
The plants in this genus are found in Argentina, Bolivia, Chile, and Peru, though apparently not in great numbers. It is even more scarce in cultivation and grown by enthusiasts, but not commercially.
Growing Conditions
Light: Suited for sunny-brightly exposure; can tolerate light shade.
Water: Watering in the summer months, while Neowerdermannias are growing well can be frequent (weekly for small plants in small pots), but always allowing the compost nearly to dry out before rewatering. Watering in the winter months at all is unwise, and certainly not necessary. The difficult times are spring and autumn.
Temperature: Neowerdermannias are very cold resistant as low as to 14° C (-10° C) or less for short periods of time.
Soil: The balance of the potting medium should be sufficient to allow good drainage, so that the plants do not sit in soggy soil for more than a day or two after watering.
Propagation
Seeds, also can be grown from cutting or graft. Seeds can be sown in the spring or summer. The seedlings should not be disturbed until they are well rooted, after which they can be planted separately in small pots.
Pests and Problems
Neowerdermannias are especially prone to root rot, therefore, underpot in a smaller container filled with very porous compost.
Grower’s Tips
Neowerdermannias come from mountainous areas, so like bright light, cool and dry conditions in the winter; this is important for the flowers as well as for their health. Without this cool winter period 32-50° F (0-10° C) they normally won’t get many buds. They have a thick taproot and are of difficult cultivation and rot prone because of a great sensitivity to the excess of watering, not easy to get to any large size on their own roots really a challenge to grow into a large clump. Needs deep pot and good drainage to accommodate its tap root. They are commonly grafted to avoid root problems and to make easier to grow. On a graft Neowerdermannias are easier to grow, but the body splits if over-watered (especially in spring).
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月20日
Discocactus is a genus of cacti, highly prized by collectors around the globe. Exactly what it is that makes them so attractive is uncertain. Some of the factors are likely their relatively compact size, unique and showy white flowers, and their slow growth. The species within this genus are flattened to globose in shape with stems that hardly exceed 3 inches (7.5 cm) in height and are less than 10 inches (25 cm) in diameter. Stems are ribbed and sometimes tuberculate with fuzzy areoles or dense spines. Most plants remain single, but may form clumps. Flowering plants form a wooly terminal cephalium out of which rise the flowers on the end of a long, thin floral tube. The nocturnal flowers are highly fragrant and touted by many growers as the best smelling of all cactus flowers. Discocactus blooms in summer, on and off. The flowers are generally white and open in late afternoon until the following morning.
Growing Conditions
Light: Discocactus will take full sun, but prefers a little shade in the afternoon.
Water: Water with extreme care after the compost has dried out.
Temperature: During the rest period should be kept at above 59°F (15°C) if grown on its own roots (46°F/8°C if grafted).
Soil: The balance of the potting medium should be sufficient to allow good drainage, 50% compost to 50% gravel, perlite or pumice.
Grower’s Tips
This is probably one of the most difficult cacti to keep growing on its own roots and is almost always seen as a grafted plant. If growing on its own roots is attempted the soil must be extremely free draining, and watering should only take place after the compost has dried out and then only on sunny and warm days. Discocactus are tropical species, and should be kept warm in winter. The grafted plants are less cold sensitive, but none has any frost tolerance. Mature Discocactus stop growing, and instead divert their energy into growing a cephalium. The cephalium is a specialized flowering head, generally covered with fibers.
Growing Conditions
Light: Discocactus will take full sun, but prefers a little shade in the afternoon.
Water: Water with extreme care after the compost has dried out.
Temperature: During the rest period should be kept at above 59°F (15°C) if grown on its own roots (46°F/8°C if grafted).
Soil: The balance of the potting medium should be sufficient to allow good drainage, 50% compost to 50% gravel, perlite or pumice.
Grower’s Tips
This is probably one of the most difficult cacti to keep growing on its own roots and is almost always seen as a grafted plant. If growing on its own roots is attempted the soil must be extremely free draining, and watering should only take place after the compost has dried out and then only on sunny and warm days. Discocactus are tropical species, and should be kept warm in winter. The grafted plants are less cold sensitive, but none has any frost tolerance. Mature Discocactus stop growing, and instead divert their energy into growing a cephalium. The cephalium is a specialized flowering head, generally covered with fibers.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月20日
Salicornia europaea, known as Common Glasswort or just Glasswort, is a halophytic annual dicot flowering in August to October. It flowers in groups of three. Glasswort is found in Africa, Europe and North America. Within the saltmarsh it can be found in low marsh and in depressions, salt pans and open creek sides. It is edible, either cooked or raw.
The plant is at its best for eating in late summer. The stems are very succulent, but have a thin woody core that is easily removed. Its leaves stick out as small protrusions from the main stem. They are best harvested when about 6 inches (15 cm) long, the top 4 inches (10 cm) being used leaving the bottom 2 inches (5 cm) to produce new shoots. The edible leaves are occasionally sold in local markets.
Growing Conditions
Light: Prefers sunny position. Grow it in a container on you window sill or in the open ground.
Water: Best watered with a saline solution (1 teaspoon of proper sea salt in a pint of water).
Temperature: Give them medium (50 degrees F/10 degrees C) to warm temperatures during the growing season—spring and summer. The plants go semi-dormant in winter.
Soil: Light sandy soil (or well drained).
Grower’s Tips
Glasswort prefers a rich organic soil with ample nitrogen and regular watering. This species is little, if at all, cultivated and its exact requirements are not clearly understood. It is not known if the plant will require periodic inundation by salty water to grow well. Glasswort is difficult to grow in cultivation, it can succeed in gardens if sown as soon as the seed is ripe in the autumn in a well-drained soil. A very variable plant both in size and the number of branches produced – a number of subspecies are recognised. The best forms for food production are bushy plants up to 16 inches (40 cm) tall with an upright habit that keeps the branches out of the mud.
The plant is at its best for eating in late summer. The stems are very succulent, but have a thin woody core that is easily removed. Its leaves stick out as small protrusions from the main stem. They are best harvested when about 6 inches (15 cm) long, the top 4 inches (10 cm) being used leaving the bottom 2 inches (5 cm) to produce new shoots. The edible leaves are occasionally sold in local markets.
Growing Conditions
Light: Prefers sunny position. Grow it in a container on you window sill or in the open ground.
Water: Best watered with a saline solution (1 teaspoon of proper sea salt in a pint of water).
Temperature: Give them medium (50 degrees F/10 degrees C) to warm temperatures during the growing season—spring and summer. The plants go semi-dormant in winter.
Soil: Light sandy soil (or well drained).
Grower’s Tips
Glasswort prefers a rich organic soil with ample nitrogen and regular watering. This species is little, if at all, cultivated and its exact requirements are not clearly understood. It is not known if the plant will require periodic inundation by salty water to grow well. Glasswort is difficult to grow in cultivation, it can succeed in gardens if sown as soon as the seed is ripe in the autumn in a well-drained soil. A very variable plant both in size and the number of branches produced – a number of subspecies are recognised. The best forms for food production are bushy plants up to 16 inches (40 cm) tall with an upright habit that keeps the branches out of the mud.
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