文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月23日
If you’ve ever found a flower stem that looks wide and flattened, splayed or fused, you’ve probably discovered an odd disorder called fasciation. Some fasciation in plants result in huge, grotesque stems and flowers, while others are quite subtle. Discovering fasciations in your garden or in the wild is intriguing, and one of the fascinations of observing nature. Let’s find out more about the fasciation deformation of flowers.
What is Fasciation?
So exactly what is fasciation in flowers anyway? Fasciation literally means banded or bundled. Scientists aren’t sure what causes the deformity, but they believe it is probably caused by a hormonal imbalance. This imbalance may be the result of a random mutation, or it can be caused by insects, diseases or physical injury to the plant. Think of it as a random occurrence. It doesn’t spread to other plants or other parts of the same plant. The result of fasciation is thick, often flattened, stems and large flowers or flower heads with far more than the usual number of flowers. The extent of fasciation deformation of flowers depends on where the damage occurs. Fasciations close to the ground affect a larger portion of the plant.
Can Fasciation Be Treated?
Can fasciation be treated once you spot it? In short, no. Once the damage is done, you can’t correct fasciation on that particular stem. In some cases, you may be able to prune out the affected stems without damaging the plant. The good news is that perennials that exhibit fasciation may be perfectly normal next year, so there is no need to destroy the plant. Not all fasciation in plants makes them undesirable. The fasciation of a fan-tailed willow makes it a highly desirable landscape shrub. Fasciation deformation of flowers such as the cauliflower-like heads of a celosia is part of the charm of the plant. Crested saguaro cactus, fasciated Japanese cedar, beefsteak tomatoes and broccoli are all examples of desirable fasciations.
While fasciation in flowers is usually a one-time occurrence, sometimes the fasciation is carried in the plant’s genetic material so that it reoccurs from generation to generation. More often, fasciated plants have to be propagated vegetatively to carry on the unusual characteristics. A fasciated plant can be a monstrosity or an interesting variation, and the difference is often in the eye of the beholder. Some gardeners will want to immediately replace the plant with one that looks more like its neighbors, while others will want to keep it as a curiosity.
What is Fasciation?
So exactly what is fasciation in flowers anyway? Fasciation literally means banded or bundled. Scientists aren’t sure what causes the deformity, but they believe it is probably caused by a hormonal imbalance. This imbalance may be the result of a random mutation, or it can be caused by insects, diseases or physical injury to the plant. Think of it as a random occurrence. It doesn’t spread to other plants or other parts of the same plant. The result of fasciation is thick, often flattened, stems and large flowers or flower heads with far more than the usual number of flowers. The extent of fasciation deformation of flowers depends on where the damage occurs. Fasciations close to the ground affect a larger portion of the plant.
Can Fasciation Be Treated?
Can fasciation be treated once you spot it? In short, no. Once the damage is done, you can’t correct fasciation on that particular stem. In some cases, you may be able to prune out the affected stems without damaging the plant. The good news is that perennials that exhibit fasciation may be perfectly normal next year, so there is no need to destroy the plant. Not all fasciation in plants makes them undesirable. The fasciation of a fan-tailed willow makes it a highly desirable landscape shrub. Fasciation deformation of flowers such as the cauliflower-like heads of a celosia is part of the charm of the plant. Crested saguaro cactus, fasciated Japanese cedar, beefsteak tomatoes and broccoli are all examples of desirable fasciations.
While fasciation in flowers is usually a one-time occurrence, sometimes the fasciation is carried in the plant’s genetic material so that it reoccurs from generation to generation. More often, fasciated plants have to be propagated vegetatively to carry on the unusual characteristics. A fasciated plant can be a monstrosity or an interesting variation, and the difference is often in the eye of the beholder. Some gardeners will want to immediately replace the plant with one that looks more like its neighbors, while others will want to keep it as a curiosity.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月23日
If you’ve ever experienced the disappointment of having healthy buds and flowers drop off of your plants, this article is for you. Read on to find out what causes blossom drop in plants, and what you can do about it.
Why Do Flowers Fall Off?
In some cases, blossom drop in plants is normal. For instance, male flowers naturally drop from vegetable plants after a few days. Many vegetables, like squash, begin producing male flowers as much as two weeks before the first female flower bloom.
That being said, healthy blossoms can suddenly drop from plants due to inadequate pollination, environmental factors, low soil fertility and thrips.
Pollination
When healthy blooms fall off vegetables and other flowering plants a few days after they open, the flowers probably weren’t pollinated. Here are some of the reasons flowers don’t get pollinated: High daytime temperatures or low night temperatures prevent pollination. The range of acceptable temperatures varies from plant to plant, but you can expect to lose some flowers when daytime temperatures are above 85 F. (29 C.) or night temperatures drop below 55 F. (12 C.). Tomatoes drop their flowers when nighttime temperatures remain above 75 F. (23 C.).
With the decline in honeybee populations, the lack of insect pollinators has become a major problem in some areas. Limit the use of insecticides, especially from midmorning until midafternoon when bees are out and about. Honeybees and several other insect pollinators don’t fly on cold or rainy days.
Environmental
Temperature fluctuations, such as those above, greatly affect plant blooms. In addition to flower drop during high temps, cooler temperatures following blossom set can also lead to healthy blossoms falling off. Insufficient light, be it too much or too little, can also contribute to healthy flowers dropping off plants. Soil Fertility
Low soil fertility can inhibit the continuance of healthy blooming. Rather than fertilizing at the onset of blooming, Apply fertilizers at least four to six weeks prior to flowering.
Thrips
Thrips can also cause buds and flowers to fall off of plants. These tiny pests get inside buds and feed on the petals. Although thrips are difficult to see without magnification, you can see the blotching and streaking on the petals. Spinosad is an environmentally safe insecticide that kills thrips, but it is difficult to bring insecticides in contact with thrips because they are enclosed inside the buds. Non-chemical control options include controlling nearby grass and weeds, picking off and destroying infested buds, and regularly spraying the plants with water.
Flower Drop Tips
The blossoms on both vegetable and ornamental plants drop when the plant experiences stress. Here are some tips to minimize stress in the garden:
Keep the soil evenly moist. Mulch helps prevent water evaporation and keeps the moisture level even. Water slowly and deeply in the absence of rain, and never allow the soil to become dry. Plants experience stress when they don’t have the proper nutrients. Most plants respond well to feeding in spring and midsummer with a layer of compost or a slow-release fertilizer. Some plants have special needs, and your seed packet or plant tag should explain how to feed them.
Plant flowers and vegetables in a location where they will get the right amount of sunlight. Both too little and too much sun can stress a plant and cause the flowers to drop. If you follow these tips, you’ll have healthy plants with natural resistance to insects and diseases. If you notice signs of infestation, treat the plant as soon as possible.
Why Do Flowers Fall Off?
In some cases, blossom drop in plants is normal. For instance, male flowers naturally drop from vegetable plants after a few days. Many vegetables, like squash, begin producing male flowers as much as two weeks before the first female flower bloom.
That being said, healthy blossoms can suddenly drop from plants due to inadequate pollination, environmental factors, low soil fertility and thrips.
Pollination
When healthy blooms fall off vegetables and other flowering plants a few days after they open, the flowers probably weren’t pollinated. Here are some of the reasons flowers don’t get pollinated: High daytime temperatures or low night temperatures prevent pollination. The range of acceptable temperatures varies from plant to plant, but you can expect to lose some flowers when daytime temperatures are above 85 F. (29 C.) or night temperatures drop below 55 F. (12 C.). Tomatoes drop their flowers when nighttime temperatures remain above 75 F. (23 C.).
With the decline in honeybee populations, the lack of insect pollinators has become a major problem in some areas. Limit the use of insecticides, especially from midmorning until midafternoon when bees are out and about. Honeybees and several other insect pollinators don’t fly on cold or rainy days.
Environmental
Temperature fluctuations, such as those above, greatly affect plant blooms. In addition to flower drop during high temps, cooler temperatures following blossom set can also lead to healthy blossoms falling off. Insufficient light, be it too much or too little, can also contribute to healthy flowers dropping off plants. Soil Fertility
Low soil fertility can inhibit the continuance of healthy blooming. Rather than fertilizing at the onset of blooming, Apply fertilizers at least four to six weeks prior to flowering.
Thrips
Thrips can also cause buds and flowers to fall off of plants. These tiny pests get inside buds and feed on the petals. Although thrips are difficult to see without magnification, you can see the blotching and streaking on the petals. Spinosad is an environmentally safe insecticide that kills thrips, but it is difficult to bring insecticides in contact with thrips because they are enclosed inside the buds. Non-chemical control options include controlling nearby grass and weeds, picking off and destroying infested buds, and regularly spraying the plants with water.
Flower Drop Tips
The blossoms on both vegetable and ornamental plants drop when the plant experiences stress. Here are some tips to minimize stress in the garden:
Keep the soil evenly moist. Mulch helps prevent water evaporation and keeps the moisture level even. Water slowly and deeply in the absence of rain, and never allow the soil to become dry. Plants experience stress when they don’t have the proper nutrients. Most plants respond well to feeding in spring and midsummer with a layer of compost or a slow-release fertilizer. Some plants have special needs, and your seed packet or plant tag should explain how to feed them.
Plant flowers and vegetables in a location where they will get the right amount of sunlight. Both too little and too much sun can stress a plant and cause the flowers to drop. If you follow these tips, you’ll have healthy plants with natural resistance to insects and diseases. If you notice signs of infestation, treat the plant as soon as possible.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月23日
Plants that become leggy or floppy tend to fall over, produce less flowers and create an untidy spindly appearance. There are a couple of reasons why plants are tall and leggy. Leggy plant growth may be the result of too much nitrogen or even low light situations. It is also just simply common to some species. Learn how to keep plants from getting leggy and have bushier, more bountiful flora.
Why Do Mature Plants Become Spindly?
Plant growth is unpredictable in most cases. Legginess in plants is often the result of perfect growing conditions which allows them to add on too much greenery before the plant has adequate dimension and strength in stems and roots. The result is a floppy, leggy plant growth. You can prevent this to some extent with a little manual grooming and the proper fertilizing program.
Plants that die back in winter and come again in spring experience a rapid growth spurt in perfect weather conditions. Sometimes that makes the stems and branches slender and weak, while the fast growth stacks up on the terminal end. Other reasons for leggy plant growth include improper lighting. In low light situations, the plants are stretching for sunlight to produce important plant sugars. This results in overly tall, spindly plants.
Also, plants that receive high nitrogen fertilizers early in spring will get a jump on growth. The excess nitrogen can cause a spike in greenery development that exceeds the plant’s ability to become girthy. Plants are tall and leggy and often produce poorly.
How to Keep Plants from Getting Leggy
Make sure you situate plants where they get adequate light to keep them from stretching towards the sunshine. Pinch back the tip growth of plants, like petunias, to force bushiness and more stems which means more flowers. Most annual flowers and some perennials flourish with this treatment. Indoor houseplants that are in dimmer lighting can be forced to bush with this treatment and herbs respond very favorably to pinching. You can prevent legginess in plants by early season pruning. It enhances thicker growth and sturdier branches.
Care and Its Effect on Leggy Plants
Cultural care is a crucial to keeping plants compact and strong. Provide proper levels of moisture and drainage, lighting and nutrition. Avoid high nitrogen fertilizers, except on turf grass. Most plants need balanced macro-nutrients such as an 8-8-8. Flowering plants need plant food with a higher middle number, which indicates phosphorus and promotes flowers and fruit. The first number is nitrogen and promotes leaf growth and green cell formation.
If plants are naturally on the tall side, provide supports and an early season infusion of a plant food with a higher last number. That is potassium, which enhances root growth and overall plant health.
Why Do Mature Plants Become Spindly?
Plant growth is unpredictable in most cases. Legginess in plants is often the result of perfect growing conditions which allows them to add on too much greenery before the plant has adequate dimension and strength in stems and roots. The result is a floppy, leggy plant growth. You can prevent this to some extent with a little manual grooming and the proper fertilizing program.
Plants that die back in winter and come again in spring experience a rapid growth spurt in perfect weather conditions. Sometimes that makes the stems and branches slender and weak, while the fast growth stacks up on the terminal end. Other reasons for leggy plant growth include improper lighting. In low light situations, the plants are stretching for sunlight to produce important plant sugars. This results in overly tall, spindly plants.
Also, plants that receive high nitrogen fertilizers early in spring will get a jump on growth. The excess nitrogen can cause a spike in greenery development that exceeds the plant’s ability to become girthy. Plants are tall and leggy and often produce poorly.
How to Keep Plants from Getting Leggy
Make sure you situate plants where they get adequate light to keep them from stretching towards the sunshine. Pinch back the tip growth of plants, like petunias, to force bushiness and more stems which means more flowers. Most annual flowers and some perennials flourish with this treatment. Indoor houseplants that are in dimmer lighting can be forced to bush with this treatment and herbs respond very favorably to pinching. You can prevent legginess in plants by early season pruning. It enhances thicker growth and sturdier branches.
Care and Its Effect on Leggy Plants
Cultural care is a crucial to keeping plants compact and strong. Provide proper levels of moisture and drainage, lighting and nutrition. Avoid high nitrogen fertilizers, except on turf grass. Most plants need balanced macro-nutrients such as an 8-8-8. Flowering plants need plant food with a higher middle number, which indicates phosphorus and promotes flowers and fruit. The first number is nitrogen and promotes leaf growth and green cell formation.
If plants are naturally on the tall side, provide supports and an early season infusion of a plant food with a higher last number. That is potassium, which enhances root growth and overall plant health.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月23日
When people see these unusually colored cacti, quite often they are mistaken as flowers. But in actual fact they are two different species of cacti grafted together.
The brightly colored cactus that sits on top is actually a mutant variation of a standard cactus. In the wild, if a mutant pup is created, eventually it would detach from the parent plant and sadly die as it cannot photosynthesize. The reason it can’t photosynthesize is because it has no chlorophyll (green pigments), which is essential in the photosynthesis process. So in order for a mutant pup to survive, we have to find some other means to give it nutrients. This is where the grafting comes in.
Rootstock plants, which are able to photosynthesize normally, are what the mutant pups are grafted on to. They can provide enough nutrients for both itself and its grafted partner, allowing both to survive. Common rootstocks used in grafting cacti include species of Hylocereus (what we use here at Fickle Prickles), Myrtillocactus geometrizans, Trichocereus pasacana, Harrisia jusbertii, Cereus peruvianus and many more.
Most of the colorful mutants you will see around are derived from the species Gymnocalycium mihanovichii and Lobivia silvestrii variegate. However, the possibilities of grafting are endless, and not just limited to mutants.
How to Care for Grafted Cacti
Light: Place these guys indoors or sheltered under verandas or patios as the rootstock is sensitive to the cold and frosts. They do need partial sun, so next to a window is the perfect location if they are indoors.
Water: Very little maintenance is required for these guys to thrive; in fact one of the main reasons grafted cacti suffer is through over watering. Water them sparingly, only when the soil is dry (this can take anywhere from a week to a month depending on location, time of year and environmental factors). The best thing to do is water them thoroughly and then let it drain. If you are using saucers, make sure to empty them out after each watering.
The brightly colored cactus that sits on top is actually a mutant variation of a standard cactus. In the wild, if a mutant pup is created, eventually it would detach from the parent plant and sadly die as it cannot photosynthesize. The reason it can’t photosynthesize is because it has no chlorophyll (green pigments), which is essential in the photosynthesis process. So in order for a mutant pup to survive, we have to find some other means to give it nutrients. This is where the grafting comes in.
Rootstock plants, which are able to photosynthesize normally, are what the mutant pups are grafted on to. They can provide enough nutrients for both itself and its grafted partner, allowing both to survive. Common rootstocks used in grafting cacti include species of Hylocereus (what we use here at Fickle Prickles), Myrtillocactus geometrizans, Trichocereus pasacana, Harrisia jusbertii, Cereus peruvianus and many more.
Most of the colorful mutants you will see around are derived from the species Gymnocalycium mihanovichii and Lobivia silvestrii variegate. However, the possibilities of grafting are endless, and not just limited to mutants.
How to Care for Grafted Cacti
Light: Place these guys indoors or sheltered under verandas or patios as the rootstock is sensitive to the cold and frosts. They do need partial sun, so next to a window is the perfect location if they are indoors.
Water: Very little maintenance is required for these guys to thrive; in fact one of the main reasons grafted cacti suffer is through over watering. Water them sparingly, only when the soil is dry (this can take anywhere from a week to a month depending on location, time of year and environmental factors). The best thing to do is water them thoroughly and then let it drain. If you are using saucers, make sure to empty them out after each watering.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月23日
Succulents store water in their thick, fleshy leaves. The appearance of a succulent depends on the variety, with some producing branching stems covered with interesting foliage and others more prized for their colorful flowers. Most succulents thrive in drier conditions, although nearly all make suitable houseplants if your outdoor climate is too wet. While most types don’t require pruning, some of the branching types can benefit from a light trim to maintain their size and shape so they can thrive in a small garden bed or container.
Instruction
Examine the leaves on the stem you plan to prune to determine where you should cut the stem. Find a leaf or leaf node that is pointed in the direction you want the stem to grow, then cut the stem just above this spot. The new growth at the pruning spot will branch in the direction of the leaf or leaf node.
Cut through the stem within 1/2 inch (1.2 cm) of the desired leaf or node. Make the cut at a 45-degree angle using a clean, sharp knife.
Remove up to a third of each stem’s length as you prune. For trailing succulent varieties, vary the length of each pruned stem to give the plant more visual interest.
Tip
Prune succulents in early spring just before new growth begins. Prune flowering varieties after blooming or during the winter dormant season.
The cuttings from succulent pruning can root and grow into new plants. Plant the cuttings in a pot of moist potting soil and keep the soil moist until the cuttings root and show signs of new growth.
Warning
Some succulents, such as Euphorbia, produce an irritating sap. Wear gloves when pruning succulents to protect your skin.
Instruction
Examine the leaves on the stem you plan to prune to determine where you should cut the stem. Find a leaf or leaf node that is pointed in the direction you want the stem to grow, then cut the stem just above this spot. The new growth at the pruning spot will branch in the direction of the leaf or leaf node.
Cut through the stem within 1/2 inch (1.2 cm) of the desired leaf or node. Make the cut at a 45-degree angle using a clean, sharp knife.
Remove up to a third of each stem’s length as you prune. For trailing succulent varieties, vary the length of each pruned stem to give the plant more visual interest.
Tip
Prune succulents in early spring just before new growth begins. Prune flowering varieties after blooming or during the winter dormant season.
The cuttings from succulent pruning can root and grow into new plants. Plant the cuttings in a pot of moist potting soil and keep the soil moist until the cuttings root and show signs of new growth.
Warning
Some succulents, such as Euphorbia, produce an irritating sap. Wear gloves when pruning succulents to protect your skin.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月23日
A genus of plants native to the Canary Islands, Aeoniums have leaf rosettes at branch ends that look like large flowers. Most Aeoniums form a small shrub or small tree-like plant, but some don’t branch. There are about 35 species as well as hybrid cultivars.
Propagate Aeoniums by stem cuttings, except for unbranched species such as Dinner Plate Plant (Aeonium tabuliforme), which die after flowering and are propagated from seed. Aeoniums are hardy in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 9 through 11.
Stem Cuttings
Clean a sharp pruning shears by dipping it in rubbing alcohol.
Decide how long a stem cutting to take; for tree-like forms with bare stems it may be 5 to 6 inches (12.5 to 15 cm) long, and for small shrub-like forms it could be 0.5 inch (1.3 cm) or shorter. Cut off the piece of stem containing the leaf rosette with the pruning shears.
Allow the end of the cutting to heal in a shaded place for at least three days, longer if the stem is thick and succulent.
Fill a clean nursery container that has drainage holes with a mixture of half cactus and succulent potting mix and half perlite, well mixed and slightly moistened. Use a pot just big enough to contain the cutting.
Put the cutting into the rooting medium, burying just enough of it to hold the cutting upright. Put the cutting in bright indirect light, watering it lightly once a week.
Resume regular watering when the Aeonium develops roots. Water thoroughly, then let the top 2 inches of soil dry out before watering again.
Seeds
Collect seeds after the Aeonium has finished blooming. Put them in a paper bag and allow them to dry.
Fill a shallow clean nursery flat with the same mixture you used for rooting the cuttings.
Sow the seeds on top of the mix, scattering them evenly. Cover them with twice their thickness of the potting mix. Water the flat well.
Put the flat in bright indirect light and cover it with plastic wrap. Keep the potting mix moist until germination occurs. Remove the plastic wrap when germination starts.
Prick out individual seedlings when they have reached 0.5 inch (1.3 cm) in diameter. Give each seedling its own 2-inch (5 cm) nursery pot, transferring it to just the next bigger pot size as the plant grows. Keep the soil level the same so the flat plant isn’t buried.
Things You Will Need
Pruning shears
Rubbing alcohol
Nursery containers
Cactus and succulent potting mix
Perlite
Nursery flat
Plastic wrap
Tip
Take cuttings when the plant is actively growing, usually fall in USDA zones 9 through 11. Aeoniums go dormant in summer; cuttings taken while plants are dormant don’t root. Each leaf rosette dies after it blooms.
Propagate Aeoniums by stem cuttings, except for unbranched species such as Dinner Plate Plant (Aeonium tabuliforme), which die after flowering and are propagated from seed. Aeoniums are hardy in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 9 through 11.
Stem Cuttings
Clean a sharp pruning shears by dipping it in rubbing alcohol.
Decide how long a stem cutting to take; for tree-like forms with bare stems it may be 5 to 6 inches (12.5 to 15 cm) long, and for small shrub-like forms it could be 0.5 inch (1.3 cm) or shorter. Cut off the piece of stem containing the leaf rosette with the pruning shears.
Allow the end of the cutting to heal in a shaded place for at least three days, longer if the stem is thick and succulent.
Fill a clean nursery container that has drainage holes with a mixture of half cactus and succulent potting mix and half perlite, well mixed and slightly moistened. Use a pot just big enough to contain the cutting.
Put the cutting into the rooting medium, burying just enough of it to hold the cutting upright. Put the cutting in bright indirect light, watering it lightly once a week.
Resume regular watering when the Aeonium develops roots. Water thoroughly, then let the top 2 inches of soil dry out before watering again.
Seeds
Collect seeds after the Aeonium has finished blooming. Put them in a paper bag and allow them to dry.
Fill a shallow clean nursery flat with the same mixture you used for rooting the cuttings.
Sow the seeds on top of the mix, scattering them evenly. Cover them with twice their thickness of the potting mix. Water the flat well.
Put the flat in bright indirect light and cover it with plastic wrap. Keep the potting mix moist until germination occurs. Remove the plastic wrap when germination starts.
Prick out individual seedlings when they have reached 0.5 inch (1.3 cm) in diameter. Give each seedling its own 2-inch (5 cm) nursery pot, transferring it to just the next bigger pot size as the plant grows. Keep the soil level the same so the flat plant isn’t buried.
Things You Will Need
Pruning shears
Rubbing alcohol
Nursery containers
Cactus and succulent potting mix
Perlite
Nursery flat
Plastic wrap
Tip
Take cuttings when the plant is actively growing, usually fall in USDA zones 9 through 11. Aeoniums go dormant in summer; cuttings taken while plants are dormant don’t root. Each leaf rosette dies after it blooms.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月23日
Aeoniums are succulent plants, meaning they hold their nutrients and water supply in their leaves. They resemble flowers with no leaves because their foliage is so ornate. Dividing and propagating Aeonium is easy, if you know what steps to take and what to use.
Determine is Division is Necessary
Propagating Aeonium requires only a cutting, but when you’re both propagating and dividing an Aeonium, you will have to cut through the root as well. This is necessary when the Aeonium becomes too large for its potted or landscaped home. If it is, it’s time to divide it. If not, you can just choose to propagate a cutting in this same manner, but without cutting the root.
Take Out Aeonium
The first thing you should do is remove your Aeonium from its pot so you can take a cutting/division from it. Tip your plant on its side in its container and thump the bottom with your hand to loosen it. Then, pull the Aeonium out from its soil and shake the dirt loose.
Decide Division Point
To divide an Aeonium for propagation, pick a branch that seems to go right into the root. Begin the division at the crux of that stem and the rest of the root. Remember, you don’t want to cut through the entirety of the taproot, just the part that lines up with the rest of the stem.
Make Cut
Aeonium can handle being cut with metal if the shears or paring knife is sterilized and free of germs that can cause infection in the membranes of the plant. For this reason, you should boil your paring knife or dip it in alcohol to allow it to dry completely before using the knife on your Aeonium. Once you figure out the place where you intend to divide your Aeonium, place the sharp edge of the paring knife right at the crux of the plant, and cut down. Try to keep the cut straight. You should now have two pieces of Aeonium—one being the parent plant and one being the divided propagate.
Plant Cutting and Repot Parent
The last thing you need to do is to repot the parent plant and plant your Aeonium cutting. Do this just like propagating. Simply fill a pot with very well-drained succulent mix soil, dip the cutting and parent plant in rooting hormone and then put the Aeonium division into the mix. It’s the same for the parent plant, as well.
You can walk away from your Aeonium and check on it every few days or so to make sure it meets its environmental demands.
Determine is Division is Necessary
Propagating Aeonium requires only a cutting, but when you’re both propagating and dividing an Aeonium, you will have to cut through the root as well. This is necessary when the Aeonium becomes too large for its potted or landscaped home. If it is, it’s time to divide it. If not, you can just choose to propagate a cutting in this same manner, but without cutting the root.
Take Out Aeonium
The first thing you should do is remove your Aeonium from its pot so you can take a cutting/division from it. Tip your plant on its side in its container and thump the bottom with your hand to loosen it. Then, pull the Aeonium out from its soil and shake the dirt loose.
Decide Division Point
To divide an Aeonium for propagation, pick a branch that seems to go right into the root. Begin the division at the crux of that stem and the rest of the root. Remember, you don’t want to cut through the entirety of the taproot, just the part that lines up with the rest of the stem.
Make Cut
Aeonium can handle being cut with metal if the shears or paring knife is sterilized and free of germs that can cause infection in the membranes of the plant. For this reason, you should boil your paring knife or dip it in alcohol to allow it to dry completely before using the knife on your Aeonium. Once you figure out the place where you intend to divide your Aeonium, place the sharp edge of the paring knife right at the crux of the plant, and cut down. Try to keep the cut straight. You should now have two pieces of Aeonium—one being the parent plant and one being the divided propagate.
Plant Cutting and Repot Parent
The last thing you need to do is to repot the parent plant and plant your Aeonium cutting. Do this just like propagating. Simply fill a pot with very well-drained succulent mix soil, dip the cutting and parent plant in rooting hormone and then put the Aeonium division into the mix. It’s the same for the parent plant, as well.
You can walk away from your Aeonium and check on it every few days or so to make sure it meets its environmental demands.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月23日
Crassula ovata commonly known as Jade Plant, Money Plant, Dollar Plant, Friendship Tree, Pink Joy or Lucky Plant, is a succulent plant with small pink or white flowers. It is native to South Africa and Mozambique, and is one of the most popular houseplants grown worldwide.
Jade Plant is often touted as one of the easiest plants to work with. It can be propagated easily and grows relatively quickly. It is tolerant of different soil types, and can survive in soil that is wetter than normal for short periods of time. For propagation, soil should be extremely fertile, and conditioned for moderate to low soil acidity.
How Jade Propagates
Commonly, Jade Plant is propagated from cuttings. You can root leaf or stem pieces, but be warned that leaves will take considerably longer to show any appreciable growth. For best results, use stem pieces that are 3 to 5 inches (7.5 to 12.5 cm) long. Jade Plant is a great survivor, so long as the soil is rich and alive.
Rooting
For the Jade Plant, start clippings in a planter or flower pot that you can move. The plant will need direct sunlight for at least 6 hours of the day, and it will be important to maintain the soil moisture. These conditions are best met with a portable plant, so use a flower pot filled with sifted compost, and move it as needed to get adequate sunlight.
Rich Soil Encourages Root Growth
For the fastest development from clippings, use pure sifted compost. Increasing the level of nutrients in the soil will make it easier for the Jade Plant to get the things it needs to put on new leaves and grow strong roots.
Jade Plant is often touted as one of the easiest plants to work with. It can be propagated easily and grows relatively quickly. It is tolerant of different soil types, and can survive in soil that is wetter than normal for short periods of time. For propagation, soil should be extremely fertile, and conditioned for moderate to low soil acidity.
How Jade Propagates
Commonly, Jade Plant is propagated from cuttings. You can root leaf or stem pieces, but be warned that leaves will take considerably longer to show any appreciable growth. For best results, use stem pieces that are 3 to 5 inches (7.5 to 12.5 cm) long. Jade Plant is a great survivor, so long as the soil is rich and alive.
Rooting
For the Jade Plant, start clippings in a planter or flower pot that you can move. The plant will need direct sunlight for at least 6 hours of the day, and it will be important to maintain the soil moisture. These conditions are best met with a portable plant, so use a flower pot filled with sifted compost, and move it as needed to get adequate sunlight.
Rich Soil Encourages Root Growth
For the fastest development from clippings, use pure sifted compost. Increasing the level of nutrients in the soil will make it easier for the Jade Plant to get the things it needs to put on new leaves and grow strong roots.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月23日
Kalanchoe is a succulent plant valued for its vivid, bright colors, and tightly clustered bouquets of little flowers. It’s hardy in USDA zones 10 through 12, but makes an excellent indoor plant. Kalanchoe flowers can start losing their vibrancy in the second and third years of growth, but propagation methods are easy and can produce young, healthy varieties that grow from 36 to 48 inches (90 to 120 cm). The seeds from cross-pollination can produce some interesting hybrids as well, but there’s no guarantee that there will be a particular resemblance to the parent plants. If you want to give it a try and see what you get, seed propagation is right for you. If you would rather have more of the same plant, you can propagate Kalanchoe plants by using cuttings.
Seeds
Kalanchoe seeds are tiny, around 2.5 million per ounce. When you propagate Kalanchoe with seeds, you’ve got two options. The first is to purchase seeds from your local garden center or nursery. The second is to cross-pollinate two Kalanchoe or more in your perennial flower garden if you have them. You can crossbreed the two varieties and come up with a hybrid that can either have traits of the parent plants, traits of its own, or both. It’s always exciting to see what crossbreeding two Kalanchoe plants will bring you, and what colors you’ll see in your shrub.
To crossbreed, wait until you have two or more plants in full bloom. Use a small paintbrush or Q-tip to brush pollen from the stamen of one flower to the stigma of another, transferring from plant to plant. Since the flowers come in crowded bundles, it may be easiest to cut off a clump of them and pull them apart to get to the pollen.
The Kalanchoe seeds can go directly into warm, slightly moist soil made of half cactus mix and half fine potting soil. The warmth and the humidity of the dirt will activate the seed’s growth hormones and guide the sprout towards nutrients, thus giving you a baby Kalanchoe sprout.
Seeds should be placed in indirect light and kept at temperatures between 70 and 75 degrees Fahrenheit (21 and 24 degrees Celsius). Fill a clean spray bottle with filtered or rain water and mist the seeds only when the soil appears dry. Do not over water! Germination should take around 10 days. Pinch the seedling back lightly at six to eight weeks. When they are 6 inches (15 cm) high, transplant the seedlings to their own individual 1 to 2-inch (2.5 to 5 cm) pots and follow the care instructions below.
Leaf Cuttings
If you want to have the exact same plant in repetition in your garden, you can propagate Kalanchoe with leaf cuttings. Take your cuttings in early spring, using a pair of sharp garden shears to cut a few strong green shoots off of the Kalanchoe, 6 to 9 inches (15 to 22.5 cm) long. Strip the leaves off of the bottom 3 inches (7.5 cm) of the cutting. You should allow the cuttings to dry on the counter for around three days to let the cut side heal up. If you plant the cutting immediately, it will be susceptible to rot.
The soil requirement for cutting propagation is a cactus mix blended with some humus topsoil. Before planting, water the mix thoroughly and allow it to drain for half an hour so that the soil is moist for planting. Dig a small hole and stand the cutting upright, filling the hole in and pressing firmly so that it stands up on its own.
Avoid watering the Kalanchoe cutting for at least one week. This encourages the leaf to survive in rather dry conditions by rooting through the soil. The dirt you use should be permeable, well-drained and never overwatered. You should attempt to propagate multiple cuttings to achieve at least one viable seedling. Small plants will begin to grow from the base of the cutting after one month. Keep the seedlings moist, spraying them with filtered or rain water, but never letting it puddle.
Seedling Care
After a month or two gently dig the little Kalanchoe plants from their potting mix and transplant them into individual 1 or 2-inch (2.5 or 5 cm) pots. Fill the pots with a mix of coarse sand, peat moss, and compost. Always put an inch of pebbles or broken pottery in the bottom of the pot to improve drainage. They can now be treated like mature plants.
Kalanchoe need temperatures of between 60 and 85 degrees Fahrenheit (15 and 30 degrees Celsius) to thrive, and repeated exposure to colder temperatures will kill it. Keep your indoor Kalanchoe away from doors or drafts during the winter and consider using a radiator or small heating pad set on low to maintain these temperatures.
Kalanchoe love sun, but avoid direct sunlight in the summer when it can scald them. These environmental parameters should be used until transplantation. Your plants generally won’t be ready for a permanent home in your garden until they’re about two or three years old. They need to be between the adolescent and mature stage so that transplanting doesn’t shock the plant to death. If you do not live in UDSA hardiness zones 10 through 12, you have to keep your Kalanchoe as a houseplant permanently. Allow the soil to become dry between watering to avoid root rot, a common problem.
Whichever way you choose to propagate your Kalanchoe, you can reap all of the benefits of this low-maintenance plant. You can re-bloom it, you can gift adolescent plants to someone else to care for, and you can even forget to water them sometimes—they’ll forgive you, and they’ll even reward you with more blooms.
Seeds
Kalanchoe seeds are tiny, around 2.5 million per ounce. When you propagate Kalanchoe with seeds, you’ve got two options. The first is to purchase seeds from your local garden center or nursery. The second is to cross-pollinate two Kalanchoe or more in your perennial flower garden if you have them. You can crossbreed the two varieties and come up with a hybrid that can either have traits of the parent plants, traits of its own, or both. It’s always exciting to see what crossbreeding two Kalanchoe plants will bring you, and what colors you’ll see in your shrub.
To crossbreed, wait until you have two or more plants in full bloom. Use a small paintbrush or Q-tip to brush pollen from the stamen of one flower to the stigma of another, transferring from plant to plant. Since the flowers come in crowded bundles, it may be easiest to cut off a clump of them and pull them apart to get to the pollen.
The Kalanchoe seeds can go directly into warm, slightly moist soil made of half cactus mix and half fine potting soil. The warmth and the humidity of the dirt will activate the seed’s growth hormones and guide the sprout towards nutrients, thus giving you a baby Kalanchoe sprout.
Seeds should be placed in indirect light and kept at temperatures between 70 and 75 degrees Fahrenheit (21 and 24 degrees Celsius). Fill a clean spray bottle with filtered or rain water and mist the seeds only when the soil appears dry. Do not over water! Germination should take around 10 days. Pinch the seedling back lightly at six to eight weeks. When they are 6 inches (15 cm) high, transplant the seedlings to their own individual 1 to 2-inch (2.5 to 5 cm) pots and follow the care instructions below.
Leaf Cuttings
If you want to have the exact same plant in repetition in your garden, you can propagate Kalanchoe with leaf cuttings. Take your cuttings in early spring, using a pair of sharp garden shears to cut a few strong green shoots off of the Kalanchoe, 6 to 9 inches (15 to 22.5 cm) long. Strip the leaves off of the bottom 3 inches (7.5 cm) of the cutting. You should allow the cuttings to dry on the counter for around three days to let the cut side heal up. If you plant the cutting immediately, it will be susceptible to rot.
The soil requirement for cutting propagation is a cactus mix blended with some humus topsoil. Before planting, water the mix thoroughly and allow it to drain for half an hour so that the soil is moist for planting. Dig a small hole and stand the cutting upright, filling the hole in and pressing firmly so that it stands up on its own.
Avoid watering the Kalanchoe cutting for at least one week. This encourages the leaf to survive in rather dry conditions by rooting through the soil. The dirt you use should be permeable, well-drained and never overwatered. You should attempt to propagate multiple cuttings to achieve at least one viable seedling. Small plants will begin to grow from the base of the cutting after one month. Keep the seedlings moist, spraying them with filtered or rain water, but never letting it puddle.
Seedling Care
After a month or two gently dig the little Kalanchoe plants from their potting mix and transplant them into individual 1 or 2-inch (2.5 or 5 cm) pots. Fill the pots with a mix of coarse sand, peat moss, and compost. Always put an inch of pebbles or broken pottery in the bottom of the pot to improve drainage. They can now be treated like mature plants.
Kalanchoe need temperatures of between 60 and 85 degrees Fahrenheit (15 and 30 degrees Celsius) to thrive, and repeated exposure to colder temperatures will kill it. Keep your indoor Kalanchoe away from doors or drafts during the winter and consider using a radiator or small heating pad set on low to maintain these temperatures.
Kalanchoe love sun, but avoid direct sunlight in the summer when it can scald them. These environmental parameters should be used until transplantation. Your plants generally won’t be ready for a permanent home in your garden until they’re about two or three years old. They need to be between the adolescent and mature stage so that transplanting doesn’t shock the plant to death. If you do not live in UDSA hardiness zones 10 through 12, you have to keep your Kalanchoe as a houseplant permanently. Allow the soil to become dry between watering to avoid root rot, a common problem.
Whichever way you choose to propagate your Kalanchoe, you can reap all of the benefits of this low-maintenance plant. You can re-bloom it, you can gift adolescent plants to someone else to care for, and you can even forget to water them sometimes—they’ll forgive you, and they’ll even reward you with more blooms.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月23日
Opuntia, also known as Prickly Pear Cacti are easily identified by their upside-down pear-shaped pads or segments. Their fleshy pads produce large showy flowers in the spring that turn into red, spiny fruits later in the season. There are more than 150 varieties of Prickly Pear Cacti, all of which are hardy in Sunset’s Climate Zones 12 through 24. These drought-tolerant plants make very low-maintenance houseplants that add a bit of Southwestern flair to a room’s decor. Prickly Pear Cacti are easily propagated through cuttings.
1. Put on heavy work gloves to protect your hands from injury while working with the cactus. Take a cutting from a healthy, disease-free Prickly Pear Cactus. Harvest cuttings only when nighttime temperatures are a constant 60 degrees Fahrenheit (16 degrees Celsius) or warmer. Choose a pad, or oval segment, without blemish or scars that is 6 months old. Grasp the top of the pad gently in one hand. Cut the pad off the parent plant at the natural seam at its bottom using a knife.
2. Place the cutting on a flat surface in filtered sunlight. Choose a dry room that has constant temperatures of 60 degrees Fahrenheit (16 degrees Celsius) or higher. Leave the cutting for 7 to 10 days to form callus tissue over the cut edge.
3. Mix one part perlite with one part compost to create a well-draining growing medium to plant the cactus in. Fill a container with the mixture, leaving the top 1 to 2 inches (2.5 to 5 cm) empty. Use a container with drainage holes in its bottom.
4. Set the cactus cutting with the callused edge resting on the soil in the center of the pot. Push one-third to one-half of the cutting into the soil mixture. Tamp the soil down around the base of the cactus until the cutting is able to stand upright on its own.
5. Water the planted cutting using a watering can until the soil is evenly moist. Place the pot in a warm room — 60 degrees Fahrenheit (16 degrees Celsius) or warmer — in filtered sunlight. Water the cactus when the top inch (2.5 cm) of soil begins to dry out.
6. Decrease supplemental watering to 1/4 inch (6 mm) of water applied every seven days once the cactus becomes established and begins to produce new growth. Follow this water regimen during the months when nighttime temperatures remain above 60 degrees Fahrenheit (16 degrees Celsius). Give the cactus 1/4 inch (6 mm) of water every 14 days when nighttime temperatures drop below 60 degrees Fahrenheit (16 degrees Celsius).
7. Move the cactus to full sunlight indoors once it begins producing new growth to begin acclimating it to brighter light. Move the cactus to full sunlight outdoors after 2 weeks if you eventually plan to plant the cactus outdoors in the ground.
8. Grow the cactus in the container for at least one year. Transplant the cactus plant in the spring once soil temperatures reach 60 degrees Fahrenheit (16 degrees Celsius). Plant the cactus in an area that receives full sunlight and contains well-draining soil. Dig a hole equal in depth and twice as wide as the plant’s root ball. Place the root ball in the center of the hole. Backfill the hole with soil and tamp it down firmly. Water the cactus immediately after planting.
9. Water the planted cactus once per week when nighttime temperatures are above 60 degrees Fahrenheit (16 degrees Celsius). Water the cactus every 14 days when nighttime temperatures drop below 60 degrees Fahrenheit (16 degrees Celsius).
1. Put on heavy work gloves to protect your hands from injury while working with the cactus. Take a cutting from a healthy, disease-free Prickly Pear Cactus. Harvest cuttings only when nighttime temperatures are a constant 60 degrees Fahrenheit (16 degrees Celsius) or warmer. Choose a pad, or oval segment, without blemish or scars that is 6 months old. Grasp the top of the pad gently in one hand. Cut the pad off the parent plant at the natural seam at its bottom using a knife.
2. Place the cutting on a flat surface in filtered sunlight. Choose a dry room that has constant temperatures of 60 degrees Fahrenheit (16 degrees Celsius) or higher. Leave the cutting for 7 to 10 days to form callus tissue over the cut edge.
3. Mix one part perlite with one part compost to create a well-draining growing medium to plant the cactus in. Fill a container with the mixture, leaving the top 1 to 2 inches (2.5 to 5 cm) empty. Use a container with drainage holes in its bottom.
4. Set the cactus cutting with the callused edge resting on the soil in the center of the pot. Push one-third to one-half of the cutting into the soil mixture. Tamp the soil down around the base of the cactus until the cutting is able to stand upright on its own.
5. Water the planted cutting using a watering can until the soil is evenly moist. Place the pot in a warm room — 60 degrees Fahrenheit (16 degrees Celsius) or warmer — in filtered sunlight. Water the cactus when the top inch (2.5 cm) of soil begins to dry out.
6. Decrease supplemental watering to 1/4 inch (6 mm) of water applied every seven days once the cactus becomes established and begins to produce new growth. Follow this water regimen during the months when nighttime temperatures remain above 60 degrees Fahrenheit (16 degrees Celsius). Give the cactus 1/4 inch (6 mm) of water every 14 days when nighttime temperatures drop below 60 degrees Fahrenheit (16 degrees Celsius).
7. Move the cactus to full sunlight indoors once it begins producing new growth to begin acclimating it to brighter light. Move the cactus to full sunlight outdoors after 2 weeks if you eventually plan to plant the cactus outdoors in the ground.
8. Grow the cactus in the container for at least one year. Transplant the cactus plant in the spring once soil temperatures reach 60 degrees Fahrenheit (16 degrees Celsius). Plant the cactus in an area that receives full sunlight and contains well-draining soil. Dig a hole equal in depth and twice as wide as the plant’s root ball. Place the root ball in the center of the hole. Backfill the hole with soil and tamp it down firmly. Water the cactus immediately after planting.
9. Water the planted cactus once per week when nighttime temperatures are above 60 degrees Fahrenheit (16 degrees Celsius). Water the cactus every 14 days when nighttime temperatures drop below 60 degrees Fahrenheit (16 degrees Celsius).
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月23日
Succulents feature plump, fleshy leaves and stems that retain moisture, similar to a cactus. Many succulent varieties also produce attractive flowers in season that can brighten up a small dish garden. Most succulent plants thrive in pots, because they require minimal watering or maintenance and they also grow slowly so rarely require repotting.
However, if the arrangement begins to outgrow its pot you can transfer the plants to a larger container at any time of year. Taking the time to repot properly ensures the continued health of the plant and allows you to retain the aesthetics of the original arrangement.
Fill the new pot with a soil mixture formulated for cactus plants or create your own mix by combining equal parts potting soil and coarse sand or perlite. Use a shallow pot, 2 inches (5 cm) wider than the width of the entire succulent arrangement, with at least one bottom drainage hole.
Water the potting mixture until it’s barely moist and the excess just begins to drip from the drainage hole.
Scoop the succulents out of the old pot using the tip of a trowel or a large spoon. Lift the entire root system, taking care not to cut or break the smaller roots.
Arrange the succulents as desired in the new pot, spacing the plants 2 to 3 inches (5 to 7.5 cm) apart in all directions. Make a small hole in the mix for each plant’s roots once you are satisfied with the arrangement and plant them at the same depth at which they were previously growing.
Wait one week before watering the newly repotted succulents, so the roots can adjust to the new soil. Sprinkle the soil surface lightly with water to moisten, but avoid deep watering that causes wet soil, because it can result in root rot.
Tip
Succulents only require water when the soil has dried out almost completely. The plants rarely require fertilizing, although they can benefit from a light annual fertilization in spring.
However, if the arrangement begins to outgrow its pot you can transfer the plants to a larger container at any time of year. Taking the time to repot properly ensures the continued health of the plant and allows you to retain the aesthetics of the original arrangement.
Fill the new pot with a soil mixture formulated for cactus plants or create your own mix by combining equal parts potting soil and coarse sand or perlite. Use a shallow pot, 2 inches (5 cm) wider than the width of the entire succulent arrangement, with at least one bottom drainage hole.
Water the potting mixture until it’s barely moist and the excess just begins to drip from the drainage hole.
Scoop the succulents out of the old pot using the tip of a trowel or a large spoon. Lift the entire root system, taking care not to cut or break the smaller roots.
Arrange the succulents as desired in the new pot, spacing the plants 2 to 3 inches (5 to 7.5 cm) apart in all directions. Make a small hole in the mix for each plant’s roots once you are satisfied with the arrangement and plant them at the same depth at which they were previously growing.
Wait one week before watering the newly repotted succulents, so the roots can adjust to the new soil. Sprinkle the soil surface lightly with water to moisten, but avoid deep watering that causes wet soil, because it can result in root rot.
Tip
Succulents only require water when the soil has dried out almost completely. The plants rarely require fertilizing, although they can benefit from a light annual fertilization in spring.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月23日
Cactus delights the eye with its other-worldly appearance and striking flowers, but it also requires repotting from time to time. This task is often avoided by home gardeners who are generally either unsure how to do it or fear they’ll kill the cactus. But the reality is that repotting cacti isn’t all that difficult.
Here are some easy steps to repot a cactus:
Step 1: Find Right Size Pot for Cactus
When it’s time to repot a cactus, look for a container that’s about 2 inches (5 cm) larger than the one the cactus is currently in. If the container is too large, the soil will stay wet longer than desirable for a cactus, which likes heat and dry elements that are normal in the desert where it grows wild.
Step 2: Assemble Materials for Repotting Cactus
Have all the necessary materials on hand: cactus soil, larger pot, protective gloves or tongs to handle the cactus, and a bamboo skewer or long, slender stick. It’s also best to have newspaper or protective covering on the bench or area where the repotting takes place.
A word about cactus soil is necessary. Most garden centers carry cactus soil, which is a mixture of peat, perlite, horticultural vermiculite and added nutrients. For a cactus garden, it’s important that the right soil be used. A small bag costs about $4 to $5 and goes a long way.
Step 3: Spread Small Amount of Soil in New Container
Place a small amount of cactus soil in the bottom of the new container.
Step 4: Remove Cactus From Old Container
Wearing gloves, and possibly a long-sleeved shirt if the cactus is large, gently lift the cactus from the old container. Tongs can also be used if the cactus has long and very sharp spines that may go through the gloves. For very small cacti, newspaper can be used.
Examine the bottom of the cactus to see if there are mealy bugs. Also check to see if it’s root-bound and, if so, gently break up some of the roots. This will permit them to spread and grow in the new pot.
Step 5: Place Cactus in New Container
Carefully set the cactus in the new container. If the bottom of the cactus is not level with the the rim of the pot, remove it and add a little more soil. Keep doing this until the cactus is level with the rim.
Step 6: Fill in Soil Around Cactus
Make sure to fill in soil all around the cactus. Use the bamboo skewer or a long, slender stick to check around the sides of the pot. Shake or jiggle the pot to fill in the soil in areas where there may be a pocket. A gentle tap on the counter or surface will also help soil settle in the voids between the roots.
Step 7: Wait a Day Before Watering
Give the cactus a day after repotting before adding any water. Use care when watering, since overwatering is one of the biggest problems with cacti. Let soil dry out completely between watering and occasionally give the cactus an overall spray of water.
Here are some easy steps to repot a cactus:
Step 1: Find Right Size Pot for Cactus
When it’s time to repot a cactus, look for a container that’s about 2 inches (5 cm) larger than the one the cactus is currently in. If the container is too large, the soil will stay wet longer than desirable for a cactus, which likes heat and dry elements that are normal in the desert where it grows wild.
Step 2: Assemble Materials for Repotting Cactus
Have all the necessary materials on hand: cactus soil, larger pot, protective gloves or tongs to handle the cactus, and a bamboo skewer or long, slender stick. It’s also best to have newspaper or protective covering on the bench or area where the repotting takes place.
A word about cactus soil is necessary. Most garden centers carry cactus soil, which is a mixture of peat, perlite, horticultural vermiculite and added nutrients. For a cactus garden, it’s important that the right soil be used. A small bag costs about $4 to $5 and goes a long way.
Step 3: Spread Small Amount of Soil in New Container
Place a small amount of cactus soil in the bottom of the new container.
Step 4: Remove Cactus From Old Container
Wearing gloves, and possibly a long-sleeved shirt if the cactus is large, gently lift the cactus from the old container. Tongs can also be used if the cactus has long and very sharp spines that may go through the gloves. For very small cacti, newspaper can be used.
Examine the bottom of the cactus to see if there are mealy bugs. Also check to see if it’s root-bound and, if so, gently break up some of the roots. This will permit them to spread and grow in the new pot.
Step 5: Place Cactus in New Container
Carefully set the cactus in the new container. If the bottom of the cactus is not level with the the rim of the pot, remove it and add a little more soil. Keep doing this until the cactus is level with the rim.
Step 6: Fill in Soil Around Cactus
Make sure to fill in soil all around the cactus. Use the bamboo skewer or a long, slender stick to check around the sides of the pot. Shake or jiggle the pot to fill in the soil in areas where there may be a pocket. A gentle tap on the counter or surface will also help soil settle in the voids between the roots.
Step 7: Wait a Day Before Watering
Give the cactus a day after repotting before adding any water. Use care when watering, since overwatering is one of the biggest problems with cacti. Let soil dry out completely between watering and occasionally give the cactus an overall spray of water.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月22日
Christmas Cactus is a jungle cactus that prefers humidity and moisture, unlike its standard cactus cousins, which require a warm, arid climate. A winter-bloomer, Christmas Cactus displays flowers in shades of red, lavender, rose, purple, white, peach, cream and orange, depending on the variety. These prolific growers eventually need to be repotted. Repotting Christmas Cactus isn’t complicated, but the key is knowing when and how to repot a Christmas Cactus.
When to Repot
Most plants are best repotted when they display new growth in spring, but Christmas Cactus repotting should be done after blooming ends and the flowers have wilted in late winter or early spring. Never attempt to repot the plant while it is actively blooming.
Don’t rush to repot Christmas Cactus because this hardy succulent is happiest when its roots are slightly crowded. Frequent repotting can damage the plant.
Repotting Christmas Cactus every 3 to 4 years is usually adequate, but you may prefer to wait until the plant begins to look tired or you notice a few roots growing through the drainage hole. Often, a plant can bloom happily in the same pot for years.
How to Repot
Here are some Christmas Cactus potting tips that will help you find success:
Take your time because repotting a Christmas Cactus can be tricky. A lightweight, well-drained potting mixture is critical, so look for a commercial mix for bromeliads or succulents. You can also use a mixture of two-thirds regular potting soil and one-third sand.
Repot Christmas Cactus into a pot only slightly larger than the current container. Be sure the container has a drainage hole in the bottom. Although Christmas Cactus likes moisture, it will soon rot if the roots are deprived of air.
Remove the plant from its pot, along with the surrounding soil ball, and then gently loosen the roots. If the potting mix is compacted, gently wash it away from the roots with a little water.
Replant the Christmas cactus in the new pot so the top of the root ball is about an inch (2.5 cm) below the rim of the pot. Fill in around the roots with fresh potting mix and pat the soil lightly to remove air pockets. Water it moderately.
Put the plant in a shady location for two or three days, then resume the plant’s normal care routine.
When to Repot
Most plants are best repotted when they display new growth in spring, but Christmas Cactus repotting should be done after blooming ends and the flowers have wilted in late winter or early spring. Never attempt to repot the plant while it is actively blooming.
Don’t rush to repot Christmas Cactus because this hardy succulent is happiest when its roots are slightly crowded. Frequent repotting can damage the plant.
Repotting Christmas Cactus every 3 to 4 years is usually adequate, but you may prefer to wait until the plant begins to look tired or you notice a few roots growing through the drainage hole. Often, a plant can bloom happily in the same pot for years.
How to Repot
Here are some Christmas Cactus potting tips that will help you find success:
Take your time because repotting a Christmas Cactus can be tricky. A lightweight, well-drained potting mixture is critical, so look for a commercial mix for bromeliads or succulents. You can also use a mixture of two-thirds regular potting soil and one-third sand.
Repot Christmas Cactus into a pot only slightly larger than the current container. Be sure the container has a drainage hole in the bottom. Although Christmas Cactus likes moisture, it will soon rot if the roots are deprived of air.
Remove the plant from its pot, along with the surrounding soil ball, and then gently loosen the roots. If the potting mix is compacted, gently wash it away from the roots with a little water.
Replant the Christmas cactus in the new pot so the top of the root ball is about an inch (2.5 cm) below the rim of the pot. Fill in around the roots with fresh potting mix and pat the soil lightly to remove air pockets. Water it moderately.
Put the plant in a shady location for two or three days, then resume the plant’s normal care routine.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月22日
Echeveria are very popular succulents that grow in attractive rosettes with beautiful leaves in a variety of colors and sometimes stunning flowers. These plants have been extensively hybridized, so in addition to the main species there are many varieties that have been specially bred for interesting leaf form and color. Most Echeveria will remain fairly small (a few inches to a foot across), but some species will grow to small shrub-like plants of 2 feet.
Growing Conditions
Light: Full sun. Perfect for a sunny window.
Water: Water during the summer and spring, making sure drainage is immaculate. Reduce water in the winter to monthly.
Temperature: Prefers average summer temps (65ºF/18ºC – 70ºF/21ºC). In winter, cool to 50ºF/10ºC.
Soil: A well-drained succulent mix, with an ideal pH around 6.0 (slightly acidic).
Fertilizer: Feed with a controlled-release fertilizer in the beginning of the season or weekly with a weak liquid solution. Use a balanced 20-20-20 fertilizer at 1/4 strength on mature plants, and a fertilizer with less nitrogen on young plants.
Propagation
Most Echeveria can be easily propagated from leaf cuttings, although a few are better from seeds or stem cuttings. To propagate a leaf cutting, place the individual leaf in a succulent or cacti mix and cover the dish until the new plant sprouts.
Repotting
Repot as needed, preferably during the warm season. To repot a succulent, make sure the soil is dry before repotting, then gently remove the pot.
Knock away the old soil from the roots, making sure to remove any rotted or dead roots in the process. Treat any cuts with a fungicide. Place the plant in its new pot and backfill with potting soil, spreading the roots out as you repot. Leave the plant dry for a week or so, then begin to water lightly to reduce the risk of root rot.
Grower’s Tips
Most of the common Echeveria species are not complicated succulents to grow, provided you follow a few basic rules. First, be careful never to let water sit in the rosette as it can cause rot or fungal diseases that will kill the plant. Additionally, remove dead leaves from the bottom of the plant as it grows. These dead leaves provide a haven for pests, and Echeveria are susceptible to mealy bugs. As with all succulents, careful watering habits and plenty of light will help ensure success.
Growing Conditions
Light: Full sun. Perfect for a sunny window.
Water: Water during the summer and spring, making sure drainage is immaculate. Reduce water in the winter to monthly.
Temperature: Prefers average summer temps (65ºF/18ºC – 70ºF/21ºC). In winter, cool to 50ºF/10ºC.
Soil: A well-drained succulent mix, with an ideal pH around 6.0 (slightly acidic).
Fertilizer: Feed with a controlled-release fertilizer in the beginning of the season or weekly with a weak liquid solution. Use a balanced 20-20-20 fertilizer at 1/4 strength on mature plants, and a fertilizer with less nitrogen on young plants.
Propagation
Most Echeveria can be easily propagated from leaf cuttings, although a few are better from seeds or stem cuttings. To propagate a leaf cutting, place the individual leaf in a succulent or cacti mix and cover the dish until the new plant sprouts.
Repotting
Repot as needed, preferably during the warm season. To repot a succulent, make sure the soil is dry before repotting, then gently remove the pot.
Knock away the old soil from the roots, making sure to remove any rotted or dead roots in the process. Treat any cuts with a fungicide. Place the plant in its new pot and backfill with potting soil, spreading the roots out as you repot. Leave the plant dry for a week or so, then begin to water lightly to reduce the risk of root rot.
Grower’s Tips
Most of the common Echeveria species are not complicated succulents to grow, provided you follow a few basic rules. First, be careful never to let water sit in the rosette as it can cause rot or fungal diseases that will kill the plant. Additionally, remove dead leaves from the bottom of the plant as it grows. These dead leaves provide a haven for pests, and Echeveria are susceptible to mealy bugs. As with all succulents, careful watering habits and plenty of light will help ensure success.
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