文章
Miss Chen
2018年01月10日
Description: This herbaceous perennial plant is 3-8' tall and largely unbranched, except where the flowers occur. The central stem is stout, round, light green to light red, and densely covered with short white hairs. The leaves occur alternately along the central stem, except for some of the lower leaves, which may occur oppositely from each other. These leaves are up to 12" long and 2" across. They are sessile against the stem, and narrowly lanceolate. Their upper and lower surfaces are light green and covered with fine white hairs. The margins of the leaves are smooth, or they may have widely spaced small teeth. Furthermore, the typical leaf folds upward from the central vein, and curls downward from the stem on account of its length.
From the axils of the upper leaves, there are short flowering stalks. Each of these stalks is more or less erect, bearing a single composite flower and possibly 1 or 2 leaves. Each composite flower is about 2–3½" across. There are 20-40 yellow ray florets, which surround numerous disk florets. Behind each composite flower, there are green bracts that are lanceolate or narrowly lanceolate; they are covered with fine white hairs as well. The blooming period is late summer to fall and lasts about 1 month. The achenes are linear-oblong with a pair of awns on top. They are blown about by the wind, or distributed by animals. The root system consists of fleshy, fibrous roots and rhizomes. Like other perennial sunflowers, this plant can form vegetative colonies.
Cultivation: The preference is full sun and mesic to dry conditions. The soil can contain clay-loam, rocky material, or loess. This plant appears to have few problems with pests or foliar disease. It can grow tall and spread aggressively, and may flop over while in bloom if it is grown in moist rich soil.
Range & Habitat: Maximilian's Sunflower is an uncommon plant that occurs in NE Illinois, west central Illinois, and SW Illinois (see Distribution Map). It is adventive from the west in most, if not all, of these areas. It is possible, however, that Maximilian's Sunflower is native to a few of the western counties in Illinois where it occurs in high quality natural habitats. Habitats include rocky upland prairies, loess hill prairies, ledges of rocky cliffs, areas along railroads and roadsides, and waste ground. This plant is more common in states that lie west of the Mississippi River.
Faunal Associations: The flowers of this species probably attract many of the same insects as other sunflowers, including long-tongued bees, short-tongued bees, butterflies and skippers, and beetles. These insects seek nectar or pollen. The seeds of sunflowers are an attractive food source to both birds and small mammals (see Wildlife Table). The caterpillars of the butterfly Chlosyne nycteis (Silvery Checkerspot) feed on the foliage, while the caterpillars of several Papaipema spp. (Borer Moths) bore through the stems (see the Insect Table for additional species that feed on sunflowers). The foliage of young plants may be eaten by rabbits and groundhogs, while large plants are eaten by livestock.
Photographic Location: A city park in Champaign, Illinois, where a colony of plants occurred along a small lake.
Comments: Maximilian's Sunflower is named after an early botantical explorer of North America. This plant has attractive foliage and flowers, and it is easy to identify because of the unusual leaves. These narrow leaves are longer (up to 12") than the leaves of other Helianthus spp. in Illinois, and they have a distinctive light green or greyish green appearance because of their fine white hairs. Two native species, Helianthus grosseserratus (Sawtooth Sunflower) and Helianthus giganteus (Giant Sunflower), also have narrow leaves, but they are not covered with dense white hairs. Another species resembling Maximilian's Sunflower is Helianthus salicifolius (Willow Sunflower), which occurs in the southern Great Plains. The Willow Sunflower has narrow leaves that are even longer than Maximilian's Sunflower, but they are only ½" across or less. The Willow sunflower is not known to occur in Illinois at the present time, although a colony of 500 plants once existed in Cook County before it was destroyed by commercial development. These plants were undoubtedly adventive from the west. Sometimes the scientific name of Maximilian's Sunflower is spelled Helianthus maximilianii.
From the axils of the upper leaves, there are short flowering stalks. Each of these stalks is more or less erect, bearing a single composite flower and possibly 1 or 2 leaves. Each composite flower is about 2–3½" across. There are 20-40 yellow ray florets, which surround numerous disk florets. Behind each composite flower, there are green bracts that are lanceolate or narrowly lanceolate; they are covered with fine white hairs as well. The blooming period is late summer to fall and lasts about 1 month. The achenes are linear-oblong with a pair of awns on top. They are blown about by the wind, or distributed by animals. The root system consists of fleshy, fibrous roots and rhizomes. Like other perennial sunflowers, this plant can form vegetative colonies.
Cultivation: The preference is full sun and mesic to dry conditions. The soil can contain clay-loam, rocky material, or loess. This plant appears to have few problems with pests or foliar disease. It can grow tall and spread aggressively, and may flop over while in bloom if it is grown in moist rich soil.
Range & Habitat: Maximilian's Sunflower is an uncommon plant that occurs in NE Illinois, west central Illinois, and SW Illinois (see Distribution Map). It is adventive from the west in most, if not all, of these areas. It is possible, however, that Maximilian's Sunflower is native to a few of the western counties in Illinois where it occurs in high quality natural habitats. Habitats include rocky upland prairies, loess hill prairies, ledges of rocky cliffs, areas along railroads and roadsides, and waste ground. This plant is more common in states that lie west of the Mississippi River.
Faunal Associations: The flowers of this species probably attract many of the same insects as other sunflowers, including long-tongued bees, short-tongued bees, butterflies and skippers, and beetles. These insects seek nectar or pollen. The seeds of sunflowers are an attractive food source to both birds and small mammals (see Wildlife Table). The caterpillars of the butterfly Chlosyne nycteis (Silvery Checkerspot) feed on the foliage, while the caterpillars of several Papaipema spp. (Borer Moths) bore through the stems (see the Insect Table for additional species that feed on sunflowers). The foliage of young plants may be eaten by rabbits and groundhogs, while large plants are eaten by livestock.
Photographic Location: A city park in Champaign, Illinois, where a colony of plants occurred along a small lake.
Comments: Maximilian's Sunflower is named after an early botantical explorer of North America. This plant has attractive foliage and flowers, and it is easy to identify because of the unusual leaves. These narrow leaves are longer (up to 12") than the leaves of other Helianthus spp. in Illinois, and they have a distinctive light green or greyish green appearance because of their fine white hairs. Two native species, Helianthus grosseserratus (Sawtooth Sunflower) and Helianthus giganteus (Giant Sunflower), also have narrow leaves, but they are not covered with dense white hairs. Another species resembling Maximilian's Sunflower is Helianthus salicifolius (Willow Sunflower), which occurs in the southern Great Plains. The Willow Sunflower has narrow leaves that are even longer than Maximilian's Sunflower, but they are only ½" across or less. The Willow sunflower is not known to occur in Illinois at the present time, although a colony of 500 plants once existed in Cook County before it was destroyed by commercial development. These plants were undoubtedly adventive from the west. Sometimes the scientific name of Maximilian's Sunflower is spelled Helianthus maximilianii.
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文章
Miss Chen
2018年01月09日
Stargazer lilies produce 6- to 8-inch blooms and a delightful fragrance. The blossoms are red with a white border. Stargazers are one of the most expensive flowers that florists sell, according to the Iowa State University Extension.
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Geography
Stargazer lilies grow in a variety of climates in USDA plant hardiness zones 4-9. They need full sun and well-drained soil.
Planting the Bulbs
Buy from a plant nursery that has cold-treated the Stargazer bulbs, which increases the likelihood of the plant blooming during the first summer. Plant the bulbs immediately and at least 8 inches apart. If you buy frozen bulbs, thaw them before planting.
Sprouting
Several factors determine when the bulbs will sprout, such as the density of surrounding bulbs, amount of sunlight, temperatures and planting time. These particular bulbs never go dormant, so they'll begin to sprout roots when you plant them. It takes up to 3 weeks for the plant to sprout through the ground.
Fun Fact
Stargazer lilies make excellent cut flowers. Remove the anthers, which contain the pollen, and the flowers will live longer in a vase.
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Geography
Stargazer lilies grow in a variety of climates in USDA plant hardiness zones 4-9. They need full sun and well-drained soil.
Planting the Bulbs
Buy from a plant nursery that has cold-treated the Stargazer bulbs, which increases the likelihood of the plant blooming during the first summer. Plant the bulbs immediately and at least 8 inches apart. If you buy frozen bulbs, thaw them before planting.
Sprouting
Several factors determine when the bulbs will sprout, such as the density of surrounding bulbs, amount of sunlight, temperatures and planting time. These particular bulbs never go dormant, so they'll begin to sprout roots when you plant them. It takes up to 3 weeks for the plant to sprout through the ground.
Fun Fact
Stargazer lilies make excellent cut flowers. Remove the anthers, which contain the pollen, and the flowers will live longer in a vase.
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文章
Miss Chen
2018年01月09日
There are over 100 species of tulips and many more hybrids. Tulip bulbs flower from early to late spring in a variety of shapes, sizes and colors. After blooming cut off the flowers of hybrid tulips; allowing hybrid tulips to go to seed depletes bulb nutrients. Flowers of species tulips are left in place after blooming. Letting species tulips go to seed increases your stock as new bulbs eventually grow from the seeds. Knowing what type of tulips you have helps you decide how to take care of them after blooming.
Step 1
Leave the foliage and stems on the tulip bulbs, of both species and hybrid varieties, after they have bloomed. Leaving the foliage and stems to ripen, turn brown and shrivel up feeds the bulbs for next year's tulip flowers.
Step 2
Plant hybrid tulips 5 inches or more away from perennials such as yarrow, sedum spectabile or day lilies. As these plants leaf out they will grow up, arching over the unsightly, dying tulip foliage, hiding it from view. Species tulips are smaller, lower growing plants, requiring hot sunshine to fully ripen their bulbs. Grow them near edelweiss, alpine gentians and other low growing perennials that won't cover them up, so the bulbs can get the baking they need.
Step 3
Cut off dead tulip foliage and stems after they have turned completely brown, tossing it onto the compost pile.
Step 1
Leave the foliage and stems on the tulip bulbs, of both species and hybrid varieties, after they have bloomed. Leaving the foliage and stems to ripen, turn brown and shrivel up feeds the bulbs for next year's tulip flowers.
Step 2
Plant hybrid tulips 5 inches or more away from perennials such as yarrow, sedum spectabile or day lilies. As these plants leaf out they will grow up, arching over the unsightly, dying tulip foliage, hiding it from view. Species tulips are smaller, lower growing plants, requiring hot sunshine to fully ripen their bulbs. Grow them near edelweiss, alpine gentians and other low growing perennials that won't cover them up, so the bulbs can get the baking they need.
Step 3
Cut off dead tulip foliage and stems after they have turned completely brown, tossing it onto the compost pile.
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文章
Miss Chen
2018年01月08日
Tiny ghost lilies (Lilium asiatic "Tiny Ghost") grow to reach about 12 to 18 inches high and do not require staking as do some lily varieties. They produce burgundy, trumpet-shaped flowers that bloom during the summer and make excellent cut flowers for floral arrangements. Because tiny ghost lilies are cultivars in the Asiatic lily family, they are quite cold hardy and fairly easy to care for compared with other types of lilies.
Step 1
Plant tiny ghost lilies in soil that drains water well. Till the soil approximately 8 to 12 inches deep and mix in 3 to 4 inches of organic matter, such as leaf mold, compost or peat, before planting. This improves the drainage and adds essential nutrients to the soil. Never plant them in soil that frequently has standing water.
Step 2
Fertilize tiny ghost lilies in the spring with a slow-release fertilizer that is high in phosphorus, such as one labeled 5-10-10. Use the recommended rates listed on the label.
Step 3
Water tiny ghost lilies in the morning so the leaves have sufficient time to dry out before nightfall. This practice helps prevent fungal and foliar diseases. Water them two to three times a week for the first month after planting while they are becoming established. After that ghost lilies typically will need water only during droughts during the growing season.
Step 4
Clip off spent tiny ghost lily flowers when they fade to encourage more blooms. Clip off only the flower just beneath the bloom, using hand clippers.
Step 5
Cut down the plants in the fall when the plant dies back. Do not cut them down when the leaves are still green because tiny ghost lilies are busy photosynthesizing sunlight into energy, which they will use next year.
Step 6
Cover tiny ghost lilies with 4 to 6 inches of mulch the first winter just as the ground begins to freeze, especially in U.S. Department of Agriculture zones 4 and 5. For subsequent winters, cover them only in areas where snowfall is not dependable. Remove the mulch in the spring after the last hard frost.
Step 1
Plant tiny ghost lilies in soil that drains water well. Till the soil approximately 8 to 12 inches deep and mix in 3 to 4 inches of organic matter, such as leaf mold, compost or peat, before planting. This improves the drainage and adds essential nutrients to the soil. Never plant them in soil that frequently has standing water.
Step 2
Fertilize tiny ghost lilies in the spring with a slow-release fertilizer that is high in phosphorus, such as one labeled 5-10-10. Use the recommended rates listed on the label.
Step 3
Water tiny ghost lilies in the morning so the leaves have sufficient time to dry out before nightfall. This practice helps prevent fungal and foliar diseases. Water them two to three times a week for the first month after planting while they are becoming established. After that ghost lilies typically will need water only during droughts during the growing season.
Step 4
Clip off spent tiny ghost lily flowers when they fade to encourage more blooms. Clip off only the flower just beneath the bloom, using hand clippers.
Step 5
Cut down the plants in the fall when the plant dies back. Do not cut them down when the leaves are still green because tiny ghost lilies are busy photosynthesizing sunlight into energy, which they will use next year.
Step 6
Cover tiny ghost lilies with 4 to 6 inches of mulch the first winter just as the ground begins to freeze, especially in U.S. Department of Agriculture zones 4 and 5. For subsequent winters, cover them only in areas where snowfall is not dependable. Remove the mulch in the spring after the last hard frost.
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文章
Miss Chen
2018年01月08日
Hardy in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 3 through 8, tulips (Tulipa spp.) are dignified in the garden, standing straight and tall while proudly showing off their distinctive blooms. As cut flowers, however, they tend to twist and turn, as if they want to escape their vases. There's a method to their madness: Tulips continue to grow after being cut, reaching for the light. Keep them lasting longer -- and standing up straighter -- by properly preparing cut tulips for their new home.
Cutting the Stems
Tulip stems should be cut at an angle before you place them in water. About a 1/2 inch should be cut from the bottom of each stem. You can trim the stems of tulips already drooping in a vase, for a quick pick-me-up. Tulip stems grow another inch or so after you place them in water, according to the University of Vermont Extension, so cutting them after they've grown a bit can perk them up.
Replace the Vase
Because they tend to flip and flop as they bend toward the light source, tulips need support. They'll stand upright in a tall, narrow vase, but can also be placed in floral foam for added support in shorter, wider containers. Rotate the container periodically so each side gets equal access to the light to help tulips stand upright.
Freshen the Water
Fresh water is a must for strong, healthy tulips. Remove any leaves that will be below water level, so they don't foul up the water. Use lukewarm water, which has fewer bubbles to clog up the stems, and top off the water each day. The water should be completely replaced about every three or four days. You can also add a floral preservative to the water to help keep tulips standing up straight and living longer.
Prop Them Upright
One way to fix droopy stems is to crowd the container with other flowers and foliage. Choose other spring flowers for a cheerful display, and highlight their colors with deep green foliage. The denser the bouquet, the more sturdily your tulips will be held upright. Or, if you prefer the look of an all-tulip display, try making a little slit in the stem under each bloom, about 1/8 inch long.
Cool Them Down
Tulips are temperate plants -- they prefer cooler temperatures. Keep cut tulips well away from direct sunlight or a heat source, as this will cause them to droop sooner. Perk them up by placing them outside at night when temperatures are cooler but not frigid.
Cutting the Stems
Tulip stems should be cut at an angle before you place them in water. About a 1/2 inch should be cut from the bottom of each stem. You can trim the stems of tulips already drooping in a vase, for a quick pick-me-up. Tulip stems grow another inch or so after you place them in water, according to the University of Vermont Extension, so cutting them after they've grown a bit can perk them up.
Replace the Vase
Because they tend to flip and flop as they bend toward the light source, tulips need support. They'll stand upright in a tall, narrow vase, but can also be placed in floral foam for added support in shorter, wider containers. Rotate the container periodically so each side gets equal access to the light to help tulips stand upright.
Freshen the Water
Fresh water is a must for strong, healthy tulips. Remove any leaves that will be below water level, so they don't foul up the water. Use lukewarm water, which has fewer bubbles to clog up the stems, and top off the water each day. The water should be completely replaced about every three or four days. You can also add a floral preservative to the water to help keep tulips standing up straight and living longer.
Prop Them Upright
One way to fix droopy stems is to crowd the container with other flowers and foliage. Choose other spring flowers for a cheerful display, and highlight their colors with deep green foliage. The denser the bouquet, the more sturdily your tulips will be held upright. Or, if you prefer the look of an all-tulip display, try making a little slit in the stem under each bloom, about 1/8 inch long.
Cool Them Down
Tulips are temperate plants -- they prefer cooler temperatures. Keep cut tulips well away from direct sunlight or a heat source, as this will cause them to droop sooner. Perk them up by placing them outside at night when temperatures are cooler but not frigid.
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文章
Miss Chen
2018年01月07日
Potted hyacinths are sold as seasonal flowering plants. You can make the flowers bloom earlier in the season than they do naturally, usually in late winter or early spring. The bulbs grow and bloom inside the home after they are forced. The potted hyacinths rarely bloom a second time in the pot, but you can replant them outdoors and they may bloom again the next year. Caring for the potted hyacinth properly during the flowering period helps prolong the life of the blossoms.
Step 1
Set the hyacinth pot in an area that receives bright sunlight until the bulbs begin to flower. Keep the pot in an area with a temperature near 60 degrees F for best growth.
Step 2
Water the bulbs when the top half inch of soil feels dry. Hyacinth are sometimes grown in pebbles and water instead of soil. Water these bulbs as needed so the water level remains just below the bottom of the bulb.
Step 3
Move the hyacinth pot to an area that receives bright but indirect sunlight once the flower blossoms begin to open. Direct sunlight during flowering may cause the blooms to wilt prematurely.
Step 4
Fertilize the bulbs with a soluble balanced fertilizer after the blooms begin to fade if you want to replant them outdoors. Only potted hyacinths in soil replant well - pebble-grown bulbs should be discarded. Apply the fertilizer every two weeks at half the recommended monthly dosage on the label.
Step 5
Cut off the flower stalks after the blossoms fade but leave the foliage in place. Move the plants back into direct sunlight and continue to water and fertilize them until the foliage dies back naturally.
Step 6
Cut the foliage off the bulbs to within 1 inch of the top of the bulb. Plant the bulbs outdoors in a sunny, well-drained bed, spacing them 2 to 3 inches apart in all directions. It may take up to two years before the hyacinths flower again.
Step 1
Set the hyacinth pot in an area that receives bright sunlight until the bulbs begin to flower. Keep the pot in an area with a temperature near 60 degrees F for best growth.
Step 2
Water the bulbs when the top half inch of soil feels dry. Hyacinth are sometimes grown in pebbles and water instead of soil. Water these bulbs as needed so the water level remains just below the bottom of the bulb.
Step 3
Move the hyacinth pot to an area that receives bright but indirect sunlight once the flower blossoms begin to open. Direct sunlight during flowering may cause the blooms to wilt prematurely.
Step 4
Fertilize the bulbs with a soluble balanced fertilizer after the blooms begin to fade if you want to replant them outdoors. Only potted hyacinths in soil replant well - pebble-grown bulbs should be discarded. Apply the fertilizer every two weeks at half the recommended monthly dosage on the label.
Step 5
Cut off the flower stalks after the blossoms fade but leave the foliage in place. Move the plants back into direct sunlight and continue to water and fertilize them until the foliage dies back naturally.
Step 6
Cut the foliage off the bulbs to within 1 inch of the top of the bulb. Plant the bulbs outdoors in a sunny, well-drained bed, spacing them 2 to 3 inches apart in all directions. It may take up to two years before the hyacinths flower again.
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文章
Miss Chen
2018年01月02日
Tiger Lilies (Lilium columbianum Leichtlin), also known as Columbia lilies, are native to North America. The orange flowers, which may or may not have speckles, grow up to 4 feet tall. They add color and variety to the home garden. The flowers have six petals and blossom during the summer months. The best time to transplant tiger lilies depends on whether you are working with bulbs, bulbils, scales or seedlings.
Propagation
You can propagate lilies from bulbs, bulbils, scales or seed. During the growing season, the flower bulb will produce several smaller bulbs that remain attached to it. Even the tiniest bulb in the cluster is fertile if it has roots growing from it. If you want to plant seeds, then do not remove the spent flowers from the plants. This will encourage the plant to produce seedpods.
Transplanting Bulbs
As tiger lily bulbs never become dormant, according to North Dakota State University Extension, you need to choose the best time to transplant them. The best time is during autumn when the weather is chilly, and after the plants have died back. Dig up the bulbs, separate the cluster and then immediately replant them approximately 1 foot apart. This spacing gives the plants enough distance for healthy growth and flowering.
Transplanting Bulbils
Bulbils produce bulbs one to two years after you plant them. You will find bulbils on the mature leaves of the tiger lily in late summer or early autumn. They look like plump black beads. Carefully remove them from the leaves and immediately plant them in furrows, recommends the North American Lily Society.
Transplanting Scales
As soon as your tiger lilies finish flowering, usually in late summer, dig up the bulbs and remove from four to eight scales from each one. Do not touch the inner layers of scales, as they provide nutrition to the bulb. Additionally, you can remove the same number of scales from newly purchased tiger lily bulbs before planting them. The scales will grow bulblets and form roots. Find detailed directions for transplanting scales in Resources.
Transplanting Seedlings
Harvest only the brown seedpods, as they contain mature seeds. Depending on your weather, the seedlings should be ready to transplant from 6 to 8 weeks after sowing. Harden off the seedlings for approximately two weeks before transplanting into your garden Plant them in the spring when the soil is warm and all danger of frost is past.
Propagation
You can propagate lilies from bulbs, bulbils, scales or seed. During the growing season, the flower bulb will produce several smaller bulbs that remain attached to it. Even the tiniest bulb in the cluster is fertile if it has roots growing from it. If you want to plant seeds, then do not remove the spent flowers from the plants. This will encourage the plant to produce seedpods.
Transplanting Bulbs
As tiger lily bulbs never become dormant, according to North Dakota State University Extension, you need to choose the best time to transplant them. The best time is during autumn when the weather is chilly, and after the plants have died back. Dig up the bulbs, separate the cluster and then immediately replant them approximately 1 foot apart. This spacing gives the plants enough distance for healthy growth and flowering.
Transplanting Bulbils
Bulbils produce bulbs one to two years after you plant them. You will find bulbils on the mature leaves of the tiger lily in late summer or early autumn. They look like plump black beads. Carefully remove them from the leaves and immediately plant them in furrows, recommends the North American Lily Society.
Transplanting Scales
As soon as your tiger lilies finish flowering, usually in late summer, dig up the bulbs and remove from four to eight scales from each one. Do not touch the inner layers of scales, as they provide nutrition to the bulb. Additionally, you can remove the same number of scales from newly purchased tiger lily bulbs before planting them. The scales will grow bulblets and form roots. Find detailed directions for transplanting scales in Resources.
Transplanting Seedlings
Harvest only the brown seedpods, as they contain mature seeds. Depending on your weather, the seedlings should be ready to transplant from 6 to 8 weeks after sowing. Harden off the seedlings for approximately two weeks before transplanting into your garden Plant them in the spring when the soil is warm and all danger of frost is past.
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文章
Miss Chen
2018年01月02日
Gladiolus plants send up flowers during the summer. Each flower stem contains several buds that bloom along the length of the stem. The flowers are prized as a colorful garden flower and as a cut flower for indoor display. The plants grow from a tender perennial corm that collects and stores the energy necessary for the following year's growth, making it necessary to properly care for the gladiolus after blooming if you want it to flower again the next year.
Step 1
Cut off the flower stem at its base after all the buds have flowered and completed blooming. Use clean, sharp shears to remove the stems.
Step 2
Water the plants weekly after blooming. Provide enough water at each irrigation to keep the top 6 inches of soil moist. Water more frequently if hot weather causes the soil to dry out or the plants to wilt.
Step 3
Weed between the gladiolus weekly or as necessary to keep weeds from establishing in the bed. Gladiolus plants can't tolerate weed competition, as the weeds rob the soil of the nutrients and water the corms need to store energy.
Step 4
Cut back the foliage to within ½ inch of the ground after the first fall frost causes the foliage to yellow and die back. Dig the corms up after cutting back the foliage.
Step 5
Spread the corms out in a dry, warm location indoors. Dry the corms for three weeks.
Step 6
Break the bottom off the corm along the seam and discard the bottom portion, saving only the new top corm. Store the corms in a paper bag in a dry location where temperatures are 35 to 45 degree Fahrenheit until spring planting.
Step 1
Cut off the flower stem at its base after all the buds have flowered and completed blooming. Use clean, sharp shears to remove the stems.
Step 2
Water the plants weekly after blooming. Provide enough water at each irrigation to keep the top 6 inches of soil moist. Water more frequently if hot weather causes the soil to dry out or the plants to wilt.
Step 3
Weed between the gladiolus weekly or as necessary to keep weeds from establishing in the bed. Gladiolus plants can't tolerate weed competition, as the weeds rob the soil of the nutrients and water the corms need to store energy.
Step 4
Cut back the foliage to within ½ inch of the ground after the first fall frost causes the foliage to yellow and die back. Dig the corms up after cutting back the foliage.
Step 5
Spread the corms out in a dry, warm location indoors. Dry the corms for three weeks.
Step 6
Break the bottom off the corm along the seam and discard the bottom portion, saving only the new top corm. Store the corms in a paper bag in a dry location where temperatures are 35 to 45 degree Fahrenheit until spring planting.
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文章
Miss Chen
2018年01月02日
Known for their signature three falling petals, irises (Iris spp.) grow between 4 and 36 inches tall, depending on the variety. These perennials commonly blossom in the spring and summer with colors ranging from orange to purple. Once the flowers fade, you may be tempted to remove the foliage, but it is critical to leave the greenery intact for several weeks. Irises thrive in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 4 through 9.
Average Time Span
In general, cut the greenery back six to eight weeks after your blossoms die back. Although the foliage appears unsightly, it is slowly gathering energy to be stored for next season's flowering. Rhizomes, or underground stems, store photosynthesized energy from the dying foliage. If the rhizomes do not store enough energy, your irises bloom with less vigor or fail to flower altogether next season. The only foliage alteration you can make is simply folding the leaves downward if they are waving wildly in all directions; do not tie them into a bundle, because this process hinders photosynthesis.
Visual Signal
Your greenery is ready to be cut back when it appears yellow and has a papery texture. However, each leaf does not yellow at the same rate as others -- only cut portions that are obviously depleted of green pigment, called chlorophyll. Your irises can be slowly pruned of their yellowed foliage to create a neater garden appearance. In the meantime, plant distracting ground cover or other blossoming flowers around your irises to disguise the location. Creeping foliage and spectacular flowers make it easier to ignore the dying iris leaves until you can completely trim the greenery back.
Dormancy Period
Most iris varieties enter dormancy in July through the warm, early fall. Autumn is a practical time to cut your greenery back, especially if you want to dig your rhizomes. After two to three years, iris rhizomes clump into a mass that impedes vigorous flowering. Dig your rhizomes in the fall, and divide them. Each rhizome piece needs to have some roots and a bud-growing point. Plant these pieces in your garden for widespread blossoming come spring and summer.
Considering Flower Removal
Unlike the foliage, flower stalks need immediate removal after they start fading. Because you need the leaves to remain healthy until they yellow, your decaying flowers become a liability: They hold molds that easily infiltrate the leaves if left to rot in place. You also want to direct energy into foliage energy production, not seed production. Fading flowers are usually creating seed pods; removing the flowers directs energy into the leaves and rhizomes for storage and vigorous blossoming potential next season.
Average Time Span
In general, cut the greenery back six to eight weeks after your blossoms die back. Although the foliage appears unsightly, it is slowly gathering energy to be stored for next season's flowering. Rhizomes, or underground stems, store photosynthesized energy from the dying foliage. If the rhizomes do not store enough energy, your irises bloom with less vigor or fail to flower altogether next season. The only foliage alteration you can make is simply folding the leaves downward if they are waving wildly in all directions; do not tie them into a bundle, because this process hinders photosynthesis.
Visual Signal
Your greenery is ready to be cut back when it appears yellow and has a papery texture. However, each leaf does not yellow at the same rate as others -- only cut portions that are obviously depleted of green pigment, called chlorophyll. Your irises can be slowly pruned of their yellowed foliage to create a neater garden appearance. In the meantime, plant distracting ground cover or other blossoming flowers around your irises to disguise the location. Creeping foliage and spectacular flowers make it easier to ignore the dying iris leaves until you can completely trim the greenery back.
Dormancy Period
Most iris varieties enter dormancy in July through the warm, early fall. Autumn is a practical time to cut your greenery back, especially if you want to dig your rhizomes. After two to three years, iris rhizomes clump into a mass that impedes vigorous flowering. Dig your rhizomes in the fall, and divide them. Each rhizome piece needs to have some roots and a bud-growing point. Plant these pieces in your garden for widespread blossoming come spring and summer.
Considering Flower Removal
Unlike the foliage, flower stalks need immediate removal after they start fading. Because you need the leaves to remain healthy until they yellow, your decaying flowers become a liability: They hold molds that easily infiltrate the leaves if left to rot in place. You also want to direct energy into foliage energy production, not seed production. Fading flowers are usually creating seed pods; removing the flowers directs energy into the leaves and rhizomes for storage and vigorous blossoming potential next season.
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Miss Chen
2018年01月02日
Lily (Lilium) bulbs multiply continuously, hidden under the soil. Each spring, new flowers come up reliably, even if you neglected them through the year. But, every few years, lilies need to be divided and transplanted, otherwise they get overcrowded, resulting in fewer flowers and weak plant growth. Lilies grow in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 4 through 8.
When to Divide Lilies
When growing lilies, it's best to let them grow undisturbed as long as they are flowering reliably. In general, plan to divide lilies about every three years, or when when you notice an overall reduction in flowers and spindly weak-looking stems. Lily bulbs produce small offsets that grow into full-size bulbs. As the bulbs multiply, it causes overcrowding in the growing area. Plan to separate and transplant lilies in early fall, after the flowers fade and the leaves start to die back.
Digging Lilies
Use a garden fork to dig under the bulbs and lift them from the soil. Lily bulbs grow right below the leaf stalk, so you can dig 3 to 6-inches from the edge of the clump without damaging the main bulbs. Shake of the excess soil to expose the bulbs. Gently pull the clump apart to expose the individual bulbs. Use your fingers to untangle the roots.
Dividing Bulbs
Hold the lily bulb and identify the smaller offset growing out from the side. They will be connected at the base. Gently break the smaller bulb from the larger bulb. Ideally you should replant immediately, but you can store lily bulbs until spring if replanting right away isn't convenient. To store, pack lily bulbs in damp peat moss and place them in a plastic bag. Keep the bulbs in the refrigerator until you are ready to plant.
Transplanting
You can replant all the lily bulbs in the original spot spreading them out to avoid overcrowding, or move some to a new garden area. Lilies grow best in full sun and soil with good drainage. Dig holes for each bulb two to three times deeper than the height of the bulb. Place one lily bulb in each hole with the flat side down and the pointed side up. Push the soil over the bulb and pat it down gently. Space each lily bulb 12 to 18 inches apart. After you are finished planting, water the area.
When to Divide Lilies
When growing lilies, it's best to let them grow undisturbed as long as they are flowering reliably. In general, plan to divide lilies about every three years, or when when you notice an overall reduction in flowers and spindly weak-looking stems. Lily bulbs produce small offsets that grow into full-size bulbs. As the bulbs multiply, it causes overcrowding in the growing area. Plan to separate and transplant lilies in early fall, after the flowers fade and the leaves start to die back.
Digging Lilies
Use a garden fork to dig under the bulbs and lift them from the soil. Lily bulbs grow right below the leaf stalk, so you can dig 3 to 6-inches from the edge of the clump without damaging the main bulbs. Shake of the excess soil to expose the bulbs. Gently pull the clump apart to expose the individual bulbs. Use your fingers to untangle the roots.
Dividing Bulbs
Hold the lily bulb and identify the smaller offset growing out from the side. They will be connected at the base. Gently break the smaller bulb from the larger bulb. Ideally you should replant immediately, but you can store lily bulbs until spring if replanting right away isn't convenient. To store, pack lily bulbs in damp peat moss and place them in a plastic bag. Keep the bulbs in the refrigerator until you are ready to plant.
Transplanting
You can replant all the lily bulbs in the original spot spreading them out to avoid overcrowding, or move some to a new garden area. Lilies grow best in full sun and soil with good drainage. Dig holes for each bulb two to three times deeper than the height of the bulb. Place one lily bulb in each hole with the flat side down and the pointed side up. Push the soil over the bulb and pat it down gently. Space each lily bulb 12 to 18 inches apart. After you are finished planting, water the area.
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文章
Miss Chen
2017年12月24日
Description: This perennial plant consists of a basal rosette of leaves, from which emerges one or more stalks of flowers. The leaves are up to 6" long and 2½" across, and oblong or oblanceolate. They are greyish green or green with a prominent central vein and smooth margins. There are finer side veins that are pinnately arranged. The foliage and other parts of this plant are hairless. A green or red flowering stalk emerges from the rosette that is about 1½' tall, from which an umbel of about 6-40 flowers dangle downward. Each flower has 5 petals that are reflexed upward, converging at the base of the flower, which consists of a pointed yellowish tube with white and brown accents. The petals are white, light pink, or rosy pink. There is no floral scent. In overall appearance, the inflorescence looks like a collection of pretty shooting stars, hence the common name for this plant. The blooming period occurs during late spring and lasts about a month. The entire plant dies down when summer arrives, although the dried up stalks persist somewhat longer. The small dark seeds are contained in seed capsules that are held erect (unlike the flowers). They are somewhat cylindrical, but taper at the ends. Gusts of wind shake the stalks holding the seed capsules, and can carry the seeds several feet away. The root system is fibrous. Over time, offsets can slowly form.
Cultivation: The preference is full or partial sun, and moist to slightly dry soil. Shooting Star can thrive on dry sunny slopes if there is sufficient rainfall during the spring because it dies down before summer droughts arrive. The soil can consist of loam with lots of organic material, or contain some rocky material. There is a preference for slopes, which reduces competition from taller plants. The foliage of mature plants dies down before disease can affect it. Shooting Star can be difficult to start from seed because of damping off, and it is slow to develop because of the short period of active growth. Transplants can also be temperamental, particularly if they are too small, or dug into the ground after the cool rainy weather of spring.
Range & Habitat: The native Shooting Star occurs in the majority of counties in Illinois (see Distribution Map). This plant is occasional to locally common in high quality habitats, otherwise it is rare or absent. Habitats include moist to slightly dry black soil prairies, hill prairies, openings in rocky upland forests, limestone glades, bluffs along major rivers, fens, and abandoned fields. An occasional wildfire during the late summer or fall is beneficial because it reduces the dead vegetation that can smother this plant during the spring.
Faunal Associations: Queen bumblebees are the most typical visitors of the oddly shaped flowers. They obtain pollen from the flowers by the rapid vibration of their thoracic muscles, which is sometimes called 'buzz pollination.' Other bees visiting the flowers are Anthophorine bees, Eucerine Miner bees, and Green Metallic bees. All of these insects collect pollen, as the flowers offer no nectar reward. The seeds are too small to be of much interest to birds. Mammalian herbivores may feed on the foliage during the spring, but little information is available about this.
Photographic Location: The photographs of the flowers and the basal leaf were taken at a wildflower garden near Red Bison Railroad Prairie in Champaign, Illinois.
Comments: This is one of the most beautiful spring wildflowers in the prairie. A colony of these plants in bloom is a sight not to be missed. The flowers of Shooting Star resemble in form those of Horse Nettle (Solanum carolinense) and other members of the Nightshade family. This is an example of convergent evolution between plants of different families because of similarities in the method of pollination. Early pioneers called this plant 'Prairie Pointers.'
Cultivation: The preference is full or partial sun, and moist to slightly dry soil. Shooting Star can thrive on dry sunny slopes if there is sufficient rainfall during the spring because it dies down before summer droughts arrive. The soil can consist of loam with lots of organic material, or contain some rocky material. There is a preference for slopes, which reduces competition from taller plants. The foliage of mature plants dies down before disease can affect it. Shooting Star can be difficult to start from seed because of damping off, and it is slow to develop because of the short period of active growth. Transplants can also be temperamental, particularly if they are too small, or dug into the ground after the cool rainy weather of spring.
Range & Habitat: The native Shooting Star occurs in the majority of counties in Illinois (see Distribution Map). This plant is occasional to locally common in high quality habitats, otherwise it is rare or absent. Habitats include moist to slightly dry black soil prairies, hill prairies, openings in rocky upland forests, limestone glades, bluffs along major rivers, fens, and abandoned fields. An occasional wildfire during the late summer or fall is beneficial because it reduces the dead vegetation that can smother this plant during the spring.
Faunal Associations: Queen bumblebees are the most typical visitors of the oddly shaped flowers. They obtain pollen from the flowers by the rapid vibration of their thoracic muscles, which is sometimes called 'buzz pollination.' Other bees visiting the flowers are Anthophorine bees, Eucerine Miner bees, and Green Metallic bees. All of these insects collect pollen, as the flowers offer no nectar reward. The seeds are too small to be of much interest to birds. Mammalian herbivores may feed on the foliage during the spring, but little information is available about this.
Photographic Location: The photographs of the flowers and the basal leaf were taken at a wildflower garden near Red Bison Railroad Prairie in Champaign, Illinois.
Comments: This is one of the most beautiful spring wildflowers in the prairie. A colony of these plants in bloom is a sight not to be missed. The flowers of Shooting Star resemble in form those of Horse Nettle (Solanum carolinense) and other members of the Nightshade family. This is an example of convergent evolution between plants of different families because of similarities in the method of pollination. Early pioneers called this plant 'Prairie Pointers.'
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文章
Miss Chen
2017年12月24日
Description: This perennial wildflower consists of a low rosette of basal leaves and a flowering stalk of flowers about ½–1½' tall. The basal leaves are up to 6" long and 2½" across; they are ovate-oblong or obovate, medium green, hairless, and smooth along their margins. The erect flowering stalk is hairless and devoid of leaves; at its apex there is an umbel of 3-20 flowers. The flowers nod downward from their drooping pedicels. Each flower is about ¾" long, consisting of a corolla with 5 oblong lobes, a light green calyx with 5 triangular teeth, and 5 stamens that are appressed together around a single slender style. The corolla is usually rosy pink, although sometimes it is a lighter shade of pink. The lobes of the corolla are turned inside-out, fully exposing the reproductive organs (which are pointed downward). Near its base, the corolla has patches of yellow and white. The anthers of the stamens are yellowish orange. The blooming period occurs during the late spring for about 2 weeks. Afterwards, the pedicels of the flowers turn upward and the developing seed capsules are held erect. At maturity, the papery walls of the seed capsules become light brown. Each seed capsule contains many tiny seeds. The root system consists of a crown of fibrous roots. The foliage withers away by mid-summer. This wildflower reproduces by reseeding itself.
Cultivation: The preference is full or partial sun during the period of vegetative growth and development. This occurs during the spring and it is quite rapid. At this time, ample moisture and cool to moderate temperatures are required. This wildflower can adapt to a loamy garden soil, but it often occurs on rocky slopes in its native habitat. Some protection from the hot afternoon sun is desirable, but not required if there is ample moisture.
Range & Habitat: Amethyst Shooting Star is found in only a few counties in NW and west-central Illinois (see Distribution Map); it is native and uncommon. Habitats include thinly wooded bluffs, rocky cliffs, and sheltered areas of upland prairies where moisture tends to accumulate. In Illinois, this wildflower is found in hilly areas along the Illinois and Mississippi Rivers. In other states, it is often found in mountainous areas.
Faunal Associations: The flowers are visited by bumblebees and other bees for their pollen. Through the rapid vibration of their abdominal muscles, bumblebee visitors engage in "buzz pollination," which induces the flower to release its pollen. The low foliage is probably edible to mammalian herbivores, but it is rarely eaten because of its inconspicuous and ephemeral nature.
Photographic Location: The wildflower garden of the webmaster in Urbana, Illinois.
Comments: This is a little jewel of a plant. It closely resembles the more common Dodecatheon meadia (Shooting Star), but the flowers of Amethyst Shooting Star are usually a deeper shade of pink. In general, Amethyst Shooting Star is slightly smaller in size than Shooting Star, and the flowering stalk of each plant has a tendency to produce fewer flowers (less than 20); sometimes, the flowering stalk of a robust Shooting Star produces substantially more than 20 flowers. The most critical difference between these two plants, however, consists of the characteristics of their seed capsules: At maturity, the seed capsules of Amethyst Shooting Star are light brown and thin-walled, while the seed capsules of Shooting Star are dark brown and thick-walled. The basal leaves of these two species are very similar.
Cultivation: The preference is full or partial sun during the period of vegetative growth and development. This occurs during the spring and it is quite rapid. At this time, ample moisture and cool to moderate temperatures are required. This wildflower can adapt to a loamy garden soil, but it often occurs on rocky slopes in its native habitat. Some protection from the hot afternoon sun is desirable, but not required if there is ample moisture.
Range & Habitat: Amethyst Shooting Star is found in only a few counties in NW and west-central Illinois (see Distribution Map); it is native and uncommon. Habitats include thinly wooded bluffs, rocky cliffs, and sheltered areas of upland prairies where moisture tends to accumulate. In Illinois, this wildflower is found in hilly areas along the Illinois and Mississippi Rivers. In other states, it is often found in mountainous areas.
Faunal Associations: The flowers are visited by bumblebees and other bees for their pollen. Through the rapid vibration of their abdominal muscles, bumblebee visitors engage in "buzz pollination," which induces the flower to release its pollen. The low foliage is probably edible to mammalian herbivores, but it is rarely eaten because of its inconspicuous and ephemeral nature.
Photographic Location: The wildflower garden of the webmaster in Urbana, Illinois.
Comments: This is a little jewel of a plant. It closely resembles the more common Dodecatheon meadia (Shooting Star), but the flowers of Amethyst Shooting Star are usually a deeper shade of pink. In general, Amethyst Shooting Star is slightly smaller in size than Shooting Star, and the flowering stalk of each plant has a tendency to produce fewer flowers (less than 20); sometimes, the flowering stalk of a robust Shooting Star produces substantially more than 20 flowers. The most critical difference between these two plants, however, consists of the characteristics of their seed capsules: At maturity, the seed capsules of Amethyst Shooting Star are light brown and thin-walled, while the seed capsules of Shooting Star are dark brown and thick-walled. The basal leaves of these two species are very similar.
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文章
Miss Chen
2017年12月15日
Hoyas are popular houseplants with long trailing stems, waxy leaves and fragrant flowers. Some varieties of hoyas bloom in spring and summer, some flower in fall and winter, and some bloom sporadically throughout the year. Although there are between 300 and 400 varieties, the wax plant (Hoya carnosa) is most commonly grown.
Description
Hoyas are slow growing with long woody stems. All hoyas have thick fleshy leaves with a waxy coating, but the color, shape and size vary depending on the variety. Clusters of creamy white to pink star-shaped flowers hang from the plant; some people find the fragrance of the blooms disagreeable. Hoyas contain milky sap that can stain clothes, furniture or walls.
Culture
Grow hoyas outside in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 10b and 11 in light shade. In colder zones, grow hoyas inside in a window with bright light. Hoyas do not tolerate direct sun or temperatures below 45 degrees Fahrenheit. During the growing season water thoroughly, allowing the top third of the soil in the container to completely dry out. Water sparingly in the winter. Mist plants with a spray bottle to maintain 40 percent to 60 percent humidity.
Flowering
Some hoyas bloom during their first year, while others do not flower until they are larger or more mature. New flowers grow from the bases of old flowers, which are called bloom spurs. Pruning the spurs off will reduce or delay flowering. If a hoya is not blooming, try moving it to an area with more light and apply a fertilizer with more phosphorus (the middle number on the label). Hoyas bloom better when they are root bound. If the flowers turn brown and mushy, or yellow and spongy, the soil is too wet. If the blooms dry up and fall off the plant, the soil has dried out too much between waterings. Cool drafts cause the flowers to drop off soon after they open.
Problems
Mealy bugs, small cottony insects, infest the stems and the undersides of the leaves on hoyas. Spray plants with a horticultural soap mixture to control mealy bugs. Nematodes can be a problem when hoyas are grown in the ground outside. Grow hoyas in containers to avoid damage from nematodes. Root rot is caused by soil that is too wet and soggy. Use a potting mixture that drains freely and do not overwater.
Description
Hoyas are slow growing with long woody stems. All hoyas have thick fleshy leaves with a waxy coating, but the color, shape and size vary depending on the variety. Clusters of creamy white to pink star-shaped flowers hang from the plant; some people find the fragrance of the blooms disagreeable. Hoyas contain milky sap that can stain clothes, furniture or walls.
Culture
Grow hoyas outside in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 10b and 11 in light shade. In colder zones, grow hoyas inside in a window with bright light. Hoyas do not tolerate direct sun or temperatures below 45 degrees Fahrenheit. During the growing season water thoroughly, allowing the top third of the soil in the container to completely dry out. Water sparingly in the winter. Mist plants with a spray bottle to maintain 40 percent to 60 percent humidity.
Flowering
Some hoyas bloom during their first year, while others do not flower until they are larger or more mature. New flowers grow from the bases of old flowers, which are called bloom spurs. Pruning the spurs off will reduce or delay flowering. If a hoya is not blooming, try moving it to an area with more light and apply a fertilizer with more phosphorus (the middle number on the label). Hoyas bloom better when they are root bound. If the flowers turn brown and mushy, or yellow and spongy, the soil is too wet. If the blooms dry up and fall off the plant, the soil has dried out too much between waterings. Cool drafts cause the flowers to drop off soon after they open.
Problems
Mealy bugs, small cottony insects, infest the stems and the undersides of the leaves on hoyas. Spray plants with a horticultural soap mixture to control mealy bugs. Nematodes can be a problem when hoyas are grown in the ground outside. Grow hoyas in containers to avoid damage from nematodes. Root rot is caused by soil that is too wet and soggy. Use a potting mixture that drains freely and do not overwater.
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文章
Miss Chen
2017年12月15日
Peace lilies (Spathiphyllum) are a common houseplant requiring filtered light and continually moist soil. They can reach 6 feet, but are typically 1 to 4 feet high. White flowers are highlighted against the plant's dark, glossy leaves. Both attractive and easy to grow, it is not needy. However, providing fertilizer will encourage blooms and help your peace lily thrive. And you can mix up a homemade fertilizer with ingredients you have on hand.
Epson Salt Fertilizer
Mix 1 tablespoon of Epsom Salts into 1 gallon of water in a jug or pitcher. Shake or stir the mixture thoroughly. Apply this solution to your peace lily every 4 to 6 weeks in place of a water application. Shake the container before each use.
Fish Tank Fertilizer
If you have a fish tank, save the water from a tank cleaning in a clean jug. Shake the water and apply to the base of the peace lily every month in place of a water application. This homemade fertilizer will provide much-needed nitrogen to your plant.
Vinegar Fertilizer
Mix 1 tablespoon of white vinegar into 1 gallon of water in a jug or pitcher. Shake or stir the mixture and apply to your peace lily once every three months in place of an alternate monthly feeding. Vinegar contains acetic acid, and will increase the acidity of the soil slightly.
Milk or Juice Fertilizer
Rinse out empty milk cartons and apply it to the base of your peace lily. Milk contains nitrogen, phosphorous and potassium -- all components of a basic commercial fertilizer. Use the rinse water from apple or orange juice containers in the same manner to provide a potassium boost to your plant.
Epson Salt Fertilizer
Mix 1 tablespoon of Epsom Salts into 1 gallon of water in a jug or pitcher. Shake or stir the mixture thoroughly. Apply this solution to your peace lily every 4 to 6 weeks in place of a water application. Shake the container before each use.
Fish Tank Fertilizer
If you have a fish tank, save the water from a tank cleaning in a clean jug. Shake the water and apply to the base of the peace lily every month in place of a water application. This homemade fertilizer will provide much-needed nitrogen to your plant.
Vinegar Fertilizer
Mix 1 tablespoon of white vinegar into 1 gallon of water in a jug or pitcher. Shake or stir the mixture and apply to your peace lily once every three months in place of an alternate monthly feeding. Vinegar contains acetic acid, and will increase the acidity of the soil slightly.
Milk or Juice Fertilizer
Rinse out empty milk cartons and apply it to the base of your peace lily. Milk contains nitrogen, phosphorous and potassium -- all components of a basic commercial fertilizer. Use the rinse water from apple or orange juice containers in the same manner to provide a potassium boost to your plant.
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