文章
Miss Chen
2018年04月18日
A few bok choy (Brassica rapa var. chinensis) flowers before the harvest don't have to mean total failure. The flower stalks indicate the first stages of the end of life for this cool-season vegetable, meaning no more leaves for the harvest. When the first yellow flowers appear, you have a few options to make the best of the situation.
Harvest the Crop
When one or two bok choy plants send up a flower stalk, the rest of the plants generally aren't far behind. At this point, harvest the rest of the bok choy plants by cutting each plant at the base, slightly above the soil line, with a knife. Cut carefully away from yourself to avoid injury. Disinfect the harvest knife in hot, soapy water or a solution of 1 part rubbing alcohol to 1 part water. Use bok choy fresh or store it in the refrigerator for two to three weeks.
Pick the Flowers
The bok choy's edible flowers taste best right before they open. If your bok choy crop is starting to produce elongated stalks and flowers from the center of each plant, pluck off the flower stalks and add them to salads. If the plant has only just begun to flower, you may still get a leaf crop. Pick a few leaves and taste them. If they're woody, pick the rest of the flowers and toss the plants on the compost pile. Otherwise, harvest the best tender leaves and flower stalks before discarding the plants.
Collect the Seeds
When bok choy flowers, you can harvest the seeds. Allow a group of plants to remain standing -- ideally two to three or more for pollination purposes -- until the flowers turn into seed pods. As the seeds mature, the pods turn from green to brown as they dry out. Cut off the pods and put them in a paper bag for a few weeks then break open the pods and dump the seeds into a separate paper bag. Store them in a dry spot until next planting season. Properly stored seeds can remain viable for up to five years.
Prevent Flowering
Bok choy bolts -- flowering and then going to seed -- rapidly in hot weather but you can slow the process by growing them from seed in late summer and early fall. In mild climates, plant bok choy in late fall and grow it through the winter. Bolting also occurs when optimal spring temperatures turn cold for a prolonged period and then suddenly warm again. Plants that are larger and more mature are affected the most by these changes in temperatures. You can even grow bok choy through the winter even in areas with mild frosts. Bolting is less likely to occur by planting transplants that haven't been stressed, keeping the garden weed-free and maintaining consistent water practices. Also, look for bolt-resistant varieties like "Joi-choi" and "Chin-Chiang." Before you plant, keep in mind that this plant can spread invasively in some areas.
Harvest the Crop
When one or two bok choy plants send up a flower stalk, the rest of the plants generally aren't far behind. At this point, harvest the rest of the bok choy plants by cutting each plant at the base, slightly above the soil line, with a knife. Cut carefully away from yourself to avoid injury. Disinfect the harvest knife in hot, soapy water or a solution of 1 part rubbing alcohol to 1 part water. Use bok choy fresh or store it in the refrigerator for two to three weeks.
Pick the Flowers
The bok choy's edible flowers taste best right before they open. If your bok choy crop is starting to produce elongated stalks and flowers from the center of each plant, pluck off the flower stalks and add them to salads. If the plant has only just begun to flower, you may still get a leaf crop. Pick a few leaves and taste them. If they're woody, pick the rest of the flowers and toss the plants on the compost pile. Otherwise, harvest the best tender leaves and flower stalks before discarding the plants.
Collect the Seeds
When bok choy flowers, you can harvest the seeds. Allow a group of plants to remain standing -- ideally two to three or more for pollination purposes -- until the flowers turn into seed pods. As the seeds mature, the pods turn from green to brown as they dry out. Cut off the pods and put them in a paper bag for a few weeks then break open the pods and dump the seeds into a separate paper bag. Store them in a dry spot until next planting season. Properly stored seeds can remain viable for up to five years.
Prevent Flowering
Bok choy bolts -- flowering and then going to seed -- rapidly in hot weather but you can slow the process by growing them from seed in late summer and early fall. In mild climates, plant bok choy in late fall and grow it through the winter. Bolting also occurs when optimal spring temperatures turn cold for a prolonged period and then suddenly warm again. Plants that are larger and more mature are affected the most by these changes in temperatures. You can even grow bok choy through the winter even in areas with mild frosts. Bolting is less likely to occur by planting transplants that haven't been stressed, keeping the garden weed-free and maintaining consistent water practices. Also, look for bolt-resistant varieties like "Joi-choi" and "Chin-Chiang." Before you plant, keep in mind that this plant can spread invasively in some areas.
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文章
Miss Chen
2018年04月08日
A close relative to other vining crops such as zucchini, melons and squash, the cucumber (Cucumis sativus) grows as an annual vine that does not survive frost. Its prickly stems clamber across the warm soil surface, producing yellow flowers that later become the familiar elongated fruits. Cucumbers are harvested when immature and small. Ripe cucumbers are large and plump with yellow skin, watery flesh and a bitter flavor. Plant cucumbers in a sunny garden plot two weeks after the last spring frost.
Types
Cucumber plants spread and take up at least 25 square feet in the vegetable garden. Regular cucumbers often produce vines as long as 8 to 10 feet. Look at the seed packet or seedling label to learn the size of a mature plant. Bush cucumbers genetically develop much shorter stems and a compact overall plant size. Bush types make exceptional choices for small-sized gardens or for growing in containers. Either type may be grown on a trellis of an appropriate height to meet the mature length of the cucumber variety's stems.
Planting Options
Cucumbers may be grown in rows or hills. Row planting requires a long furrow that is 1/2 to 1 inch deep. Place seeds in the furrow spaced 12 inches apart. If you know the cucumber variety is very large growing, increase the spacing in the furrow to 18 to 36 inches apart. Another planting option for cucumber planting is sowing in hills. Make a wide basin about 10 inches wide and 1 inch deep. Place four or five seeds in the hill, each spaced 2 to 3 inches apart across the basin.
Row Spacing
Space additional straight rows of cucumbers at least 36 inches apart. Space hills 36 inches apart as well. Increase the distance among rows or hills up to 5 feet if the cucumber variety is known to grow large. Planting cucumbers too closely together causes leaves and vines to compete with each other for sunlight and reduces air circulation, which can encourage diseases. A dense matrix of cucumber vines also is difficult to navigate later when you walk through the patch to harvest fruits.
Vegetable Garden Planning
Cucumbers do not cross-pollinate other vining crops in the garden, contrary to a common American garden myth. While you don't want crops growing into each other to create a tangle of vines, misshapen or poorly tasting cucumbers because of the pollen from nearby melons, squashes or zucchini plants. Only other cucumber varieties cross-pollinate -- all are the same botanical species. Cross-pollination does not affect cucumber fruit features or qualities, but it does yield hybridized seeds.
Types
Cucumber plants spread and take up at least 25 square feet in the vegetable garden. Regular cucumbers often produce vines as long as 8 to 10 feet. Look at the seed packet or seedling label to learn the size of a mature plant. Bush cucumbers genetically develop much shorter stems and a compact overall plant size. Bush types make exceptional choices for small-sized gardens or for growing in containers. Either type may be grown on a trellis of an appropriate height to meet the mature length of the cucumber variety's stems.
Planting Options
Cucumbers may be grown in rows or hills. Row planting requires a long furrow that is 1/2 to 1 inch deep. Place seeds in the furrow spaced 12 inches apart. If you know the cucumber variety is very large growing, increase the spacing in the furrow to 18 to 36 inches apart. Another planting option for cucumber planting is sowing in hills. Make a wide basin about 10 inches wide and 1 inch deep. Place four or five seeds in the hill, each spaced 2 to 3 inches apart across the basin.
Row Spacing
Space additional straight rows of cucumbers at least 36 inches apart. Space hills 36 inches apart as well. Increase the distance among rows or hills up to 5 feet if the cucumber variety is known to grow large. Planting cucumbers too closely together causes leaves and vines to compete with each other for sunlight and reduces air circulation, which can encourage diseases. A dense matrix of cucumber vines also is difficult to navigate later when you walk through the patch to harvest fruits.
Vegetable Garden Planning
Cucumbers do not cross-pollinate other vining crops in the garden, contrary to a common American garden myth. While you don't want crops growing into each other to create a tangle of vines, misshapen or poorly tasting cucumbers because of the pollen from nearby melons, squashes or zucchini plants. Only other cucumber varieties cross-pollinate -- all are the same botanical species. Cross-pollination does not affect cucumber fruit features or qualities, but it does yield hybridized seeds.
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文章
Miss Chen
2018年04月08日
Bean plants are among the easiest vegetables to grow. They germinate quickly under the right conditions and produce flowers and fruit within 50 to 65 days, depending on the variety. If planted too early, though, beans may be slow to germinate or fail to germinate at all. Pay close attention to planting times and seed depth.
Time Frame
Under good conditions, beans germinate in eight to 10 days. Beans may take two weeks or longer if the soil temperature is under 60 degrees Fahrenheit. Wait until daytime temperatures are above 75 degrees Fahrenheit before planting bean seeds for fast germination.
Moisture
Many people soak bean seeds before planting, but this procedure can actually hamper germination by causing the seeds to crack or rot. Beans germinate best in evenly moist, but not soggy soil. Heavy clay soils tend to stay wet longer in the spring. Amend them with organic matter such as compost or manure to improve drainage, or plant green beans in raised beds.
Warmth
In addition to improving drainage, raised beds warm up earlier in the spring, making them a good choice for gardeners in areas with short seasons. Another option is to lay black plastic over the soil two weeks before planting bean seeds. The plastic warms the soil and hastens seed germination. Remove the plastic before planting or cut slits in the plastic and leave it in place all summer. Plant green bean seeds 1 inch deep in sandy soils and 1/2 inch deep in clay soils that stay cold longer.
Considerations
Planting beans in cups is a common preschool or kindergarten activity because the seeds germinate predictably, offering a first lesson in gardening. Beans don't handle transplanting well, though. Plant seeds directly in the garden after the soil has warmed for best results, rather than starting seeds indoors.
Time Frame
Under good conditions, beans germinate in eight to 10 days. Beans may take two weeks or longer if the soil temperature is under 60 degrees Fahrenheit. Wait until daytime temperatures are above 75 degrees Fahrenheit before planting bean seeds for fast germination.
Moisture
Many people soak bean seeds before planting, but this procedure can actually hamper germination by causing the seeds to crack or rot. Beans germinate best in evenly moist, but not soggy soil. Heavy clay soils tend to stay wet longer in the spring. Amend them with organic matter such as compost or manure to improve drainage, or plant green beans in raised beds.
Warmth
In addition to improving drainage, raised beds warm up earlier in the spring, making them a good choice for gardeners in areas with short seasons. Another option is to lay black plastic over the soil two weeks before planting bean seeds. The plastic warms the soil and hastens seed germination. Remove the plastic before planting or cut slits in the plastic and leave it in place all summer. Plant green bean seeds 1 inch deep in sandy soils and 1/2 inch deep in clay soils that stay cold longer.
Considerations
Planting beans in cups is a common preschool or kindergarten activity because the seeds germinate predictably, offering a first lesson in gardening. Beans don't handle transplanting well, though. Plant seeds directly in the garden after the soil has warmed for best results, rather than starting seeds indoors.
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文章
Miss Chen
2018年03月31日
Description: This herbaceous perennial plant is 2-4' tall and usually unbranched, except near the apex where the flowers occur. The central stem is light green, round, and usually hairless. Sometimes fine purple streaks occur along the stem. The opposite leaves are up to 6" long and 1" across. They are narrowly ovate or ovate-oblong, with smooth margins and conspicuous pinnate and secondary venation. The margins are slightly ciliate, otherwise the leaves are hairless. The lower leaves have short petioles, while some of the upper leaves may be sessile and rounded at the base.
The central stem and a few secondary stems near the apex of the plant terminate in rather flat-headed or gently rounded panicles of flowers. These flowering stems (peduncles) are often finely pubescent. The individual flowers are about 1" long and ½–¾" across, and can occur in a variety of colors, including bright rosy pink, lavender, and white. Each flower has a long tubular corolla with 5 spreading petals that are well-rounded and overlap slightly. The tubular calyx is green (sometimes with purplish tints) and much smaller than the corolla. The teeth of this calyx are long and narrow. Sometimes the calyx is pubescent or hairy. The blooming period occurs from mid- to late summer and lasts about 1½ months. The flowers are quite fragrant. The small seed capsules have 3-cells and are oval in shape. Each cell usually contains 2 small seeds. The root system consists of a taproot. Small clumps of plants are often formed.
Cultivation: The preference is partial sun, moist conditions, and fertile loamy soil. Light shade is tolerated, but flowers will be produced less abundantly. In full sun, the leaves have a tendency to turn yellowish green and the plants are in greater danger of drying out. Sometimes the leaves are attacked by various kinds of foliar disease, such as powdery mildew. This appears to occur less often among plants growing in the wild than among the cultivated strains that are typically grown in flower gardens.
Range & Habitat: The native Summer Phlox has been observed in most counties of Illinois, except in the NW where it is often absent (see Distribution Map). While this plant is widely distributed here and there, it is rather uncommon in natural habitats, occurring as isolated clumps of plants. Some populations are undoubtedly derived from cultivated forms of the plant that have escaped. Habitats include openings in moist to mesic woodlands, woodland borders, thickets, and semi-shaded areas along rivers. Because of the attractive flowers, Summer Phlox is quite common in flower gardens.
Faunal Associations: The nectar of the flowers attracts butterflies, skippers, and moths, including Hummingbird moths and Sphinx moths. Other insects don't have long enough mouthparts to extract the nectar from the base of the corolla. Small flower flies may feed on the pollen, but are not effective pollinators. Some insects suck juices from Phlox spp., including Lopidea davisi (Phlox Scarlet Plant Bug) and Poecilocapsus lineatus (Four-Lined Plant Bug), while the adults of Epicauta pensylvanica (Black Blister Beetle) eat the flowers or foliage. The caterpillars of some moth species feed on the foliage or flowers as well, including Lacinipolia olivacea (Olive Arches) and Heliothis phloxiphagus (Spotted Straw). Mammalian herbivores occasionally eat the foliage of this and other Phlox spp., including deer, rabbits, and livestock.
Photographic Location: A moist woodland edge at Meadowbrook Park in Urbana, Illinois.
Comments: Summer Phlox is the largest of the Phlox spp. in Illinois. This plant is easy to identify because of its leaves, which have conspicuous secondary veins on their upper surface. In other Phlox spp., only the central vein is prominent. A mature specimen of Summer Phlox will have some leaves that easily exceed ½" in width, while the leaves of other Phlox spp. are less than ½" in width. Summer Phlox usually blooms later than other species in this genus, although its blooming period may overlap with Phlox glaberrima (Smooth Phlox) to a limited extent. Another common name for Phlox paniculata is Garden Phlox.
The central stem and a few secondary stems near the apex of the plant terminate in rather flat-headed or gently rounded panicles of flowers. These flowering stems (peduncles) are often finely pubescent. The individual flowers are about 1" long and ½–¾" across, and can occur in a variety of colors, including bright rosy pink, lavender, and white. Each flower has a long tubular corolla with 5 spreading petals that are well-rounded and overlap slightly. The tubular calyx is green (sometimes with purplish tints) and much smaller than the corolla. The teeth of this calyx are long and narrow. Sometimes the calyx is pubescent or hairy. The blooming period occurs from mid- to late summer and lasts about 1½ months. The flowers are quite fragrant. The small seed capsules have 3-cells and are oval in shape. Each cell usually contains 2 small seeds. The root system consists of a taproot. Small clumps of plants are often formed.
Cultivation: The preference is partial sun, moist conditions, and fertile loamy soil. Light shade is tolerated, but flowers will be produced less abundantly. In full sun, the leaves have a tendency to turn yellowish green and the plants are in greater danger of drying out. Sometimes the leaves are attacked by various kinds of foliar disease, such as powdery mildew. This appears to occur less often among plants growing in the wild than among the cultivated strains that are typically grown in flower gardens.
Range & Habitat: The native Summer Phlox has been observed in most counties of Illinois, except in the NW where it is often absent (see Distribution Map). While this plant is widely distributed here and there, it is rather uncommon in natural habitats, occurring as isolated clumps of plants. Some populations are undoubtedly derived from cultivated forms of the plant that have escaped. Habitats include openings in moist to mesic woodlands, woodland borders, thickets, and semi-shaded areas along rivers. Because of the attractive flowers, Summer Phlox is quite common in flower gardens.
Faunal Associations: The nectar of the flowers attracts butterflies, skippers, and moths, including Hummingbird moths and Sphinx moths. Other insects don't have long enough mouthparts to extract the nectar from the base of the corolla. Small flower flies may feed on the pollen, but are not effective pollinators. Some insects suck juices from Phlox spp., including Lopidea davisi (Phlox Scarlet Plant Bug) and Poecilocapsus lineatus (Four-Lined Plant Bug), while the adults of Epicauta pensylvanica (Black Blister Beetle) eat the flowers or foliage. The caterpillars of some moth species feed on the foliage or flowers as well, including Lacinipolia olivacea (Olive Arches) and Heliothis phloxiphagus (Spotted Straw). Mammalian herbivores occasionally eat the foliage of this and other Phlox spp., including deer, rabbits, and livestock.
Photographic Location: A moist woodland edge at Meadowbrook Park in Urbana, Illinois.
Comments: Summer Phlox is the largest of the Phlox spp. in Illinois. This plant is easy to identify because of its leaves, which have conspicuous secondary veins on their upper surface. In other Phlox spp., only the central vein is prominent. A mature specimen of Summer Phlox will have some leaves that easily exceed ½" in width, while the leaves of other Phlox spp. are less than ½" in width. Summer Phlox usually blooms later than other species in this genus, although its blooming period may overlap with Phlox glaberrima (Smooth Phlox) to a limited extent. Another common name for Phlox paniculata is Garden Phlox.
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文章
Miss Chen
2018年03月30日
Description: This perennial wildflower is 2-4' tall and unbranched, except near the apex where the flowers occur. The central stem is light green, terete, glabrous, and often glaucous. At intervals along this stem, there are whorls of 3-8 leaves; 1 or 2 alternate leaves may occur along the upper portion of the stem. These leaves are up to 6" long and 1" across, narrowly ovate, smooth along the margins, and sessile. The upper surface of each leaf is medium to dark green and glabrous, while the lower surface is a lighter shade of green with finely short-pubescent hairs along the veins (a 10x hand lens may be necessary to see these minute hairs). The veins of the leaves are parallel. The upper stem terminates in 1-5 (rarely up to 20) yellow-orange to red-orange flowers on long stalks. Each of these stalks nods downward at its apex. Some stalks may have 1 or 2 leafy bracts that resemble the leaves, except they are smaller in size. Each trumpet-shaped flower is about 2½" long and across, consisting of 6 tepals, 6 stamens with red anthers, and a central pistil. The throat of the flower becomes yellow and it has purple dots. The tips of the tepals curve backward, but they don't extend to the base of the flower. The anthers and style of each flower are exerted only slightly from the corolla (the 6 tepals). The blooming period occurs from late spring to mid-summer and lasts about 3 weeks. There is no noticeable floral scent. Each fertile flower is replaced by an oblongoid seed capsule that is about 2" long. Each seed capsule is divided into 3 cells; within each cell, there is a stack of large flattened seeds. The root system consists of a scaly corm with fibrous roots. This wildflower reproduces by seed or from offsets of the corms.
Cultivation: The preference is dappled sunlight or partial sun, moist to mesic conditions, and a rich loamy or slightly sandy soil. The number of flowers on each plant is variable.
Range & Habitat: Canada Lily has not been found in Illinois as either a native plant or an escaped cultivated plant. However, it occurs as a native plant in Indiana, thus it is possible that this species may establish itself in Illinois in the future. In Indiana and other eastern states, Canada Lily is found in open woodlands, wooded slopes, savannas, woodland openings, and moist meadows. Like other Lilium spp. (lilies), it is cultivated in gardens because of the large showy flowers.
Faunal Associations: The floral nectar attracts large butterflies, particularly Speyeria cybele (Great Spangled Fritillary) and various Swallowtail butterflies. Halictid bees (e.g., Lasioglossum spp.) collect pollen from the flowers, but they are ineffective at cross-pollination because of their small size. The caterpillars of Papaipema nebris (Common Borer Moth), Papaipema cataphracta (Burdock Borer Moth), and Papaipema cerina (Golden Borer Moth) bore through the stems of native Lilium spp. (lilies). The last of these three species is oligophagous (specialist feeder). Other insects that feed on native lilies include Acrolepiopsis incertella (Carrion Flower Moth; caterpillars bore into corms or stems of lilies), Merodon equestris (Narcissus Bulb Fly; maggots feed on corms), and the introduced Lilioceris lilii (Lily Leaf Beetle; feeds on leaves). The Lily Leaf Beetle occurs in some northeastern states, but it has not been observed in Illinois thus far. Deer, rabbits, and other mammalian herbivores readily browse on the foliage of native Lilies, while voles and chipmunks eat the corms.
Photographic Location: A garden in Urbana, Illinois.
Comments: This attractive lily is similar to other lilies with orange flowers, including Lilium superbum (Turk's Cap Lily), Lilium michiganense (Michigan Lily), and the introduced Lilium lancifolium (Tiger Lily). Like the flowers of Canada Lily, the flowers of Michigan Lily and Turk's Cap Lily often nod downward. However, the tepal tips of Michigan Lily curve back to the base of the flower, while the tepal tips of Turk's Cap Lily curve back and extend behind the base of the flower. The tepal tips of Canada Lily, in contrast, curve back only a little and remain in front of the base of the flower. The introduced Tiger Lily, in contrast to these native lilies, has dark bulbets in the axils of its leaves along the central stem, and its leaves are alternate (rather than whorled). Other orange-flowered lilies, whether native or introduced, typically have erect flowers. Of these various species, you are most likely to encounter the Michigan Lily in the natural areas of Illinois, although the Tiger Lily has become increasingly common.
Cultivation: The preference is dappled sunlight or partial sun, moist to mesic conditions, and a rich loamy or slightly sandy soil. The number of flowers on each plant is variable.
Range & Habitat: Canada Lily has not been found in Illinois as either a native plant or an escaped cultivated plant. However, it occurs as a native plant in Indiana, thus it is possible that this species may establish itself in Illinois in the future. In Indiana and other eastern states, Canada Lily is found in open woodlands, wooded slopes, savannas, woodland openings, and moist meadows. Like other Lilium spp. (lilies), it is cultivated in gardens because of the large showy flowers.
Faunal Associations: The floral nectar attracts large butterflies, particularly Speyeria cybele (Great Spangled Fritillary) and various Swallowtail butterflies. Halictid bees (e.g., Lasioglossum spp.) collect pollen from the flowers, but they are ineffective at cross-pollination because of their small size. The caterpillars of Papaipema nebris (Common Borer Moth), Papaipema cataphracta (Burdock Borer Moth), and Papaipema cerina (Golden Borer Moth) bore through the stems of native Lilium spp. (lilies). The last of these three species is oligophagous (specialist feeder). Other insects that feed on native lilies include Acrolepiopsis incertella (Carrion Flower Moth; caterpillars bore into corms or stems of lilies), Merodon equestris (Narcissus Bulb Fly; maggots feed on corms), and the introduced Lilioceris lilii (Lily Leaf Beetle; feeds on leaves). The Lily Leaf Beetle occurs in some northeastern states, but it has not been observed in Illinois thus far. Deer, rabbits, and other mammalian herbivores readily browse on the foliage of native Lilies, while voles and chipmunks eat the corms.
Photographic Location: A garden in Urbana, Illinois.
Comments: This attractive lily is similar to other lilies with orange flowers, including Lilium superbum (Turk's Cap Lily), Lilium michiganense (Michigan Lily), and the introduced Lilium lancifolium (Tiger Lily). Like the flowers of Canada Lily, the flowers of Michigan Lily and Turk's Cap Lily often nod downward. However, the tepal tips of Michigan Lily curve back to the base of the flower, while the tepal tips of Turk's Cap Lily curve back and extend behind the base of the flower. The tepal tips of Canada Lily, in contrast, curve back only a little and remain in front of the base of the flower. The introduced Tiger Lily, in contrast to these native lilies, has dark bulbets in the axils of its leaves along the central stem, and its leaves are alternate (rather than whorled). Other orange-flowered lilies, whether native or introduced, typically have erect flowers. Of these various species, you are most likely to encounter the Michigan Lily in the natural areas of Illinois, although the Tiger Lily has become increasingly common.
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文章
Miss Chen
2018年03月23日
Peppers are related to tomatoes and tomatillos and have similar structures and form. The plants grow 18 to 24 inches high, depending on the variety, and have one strong central stem with horizontal branches that produce fruit and flowers. A strong, deep root system is critical for good fruit production.
Root Depth
Most gardeners buy nursery transplants or start seeds indoors. When the young pepper transplants are set out in early summer, their root system encompasses the entire pot, usually 3 to 4 inches. By the end of the season, the pepper's roots may extend 8 to 12 inches deep and at least as wide, but they remain fairly fine. Pepper's roots are deeper than the roots of lettuce, broccoli or spinach, but remain fairly close to the surface.
Growing Conditions
Good growing conditions develop strong, deep roots. Wait until at least two weeks after the last frost before planting peppers and lay black plastic over the soil to warm it. Plant peppers when daytime temperatures are between 70 and 80 degrees Fahrenheit. Planting peppers too early in the season results in stunted roots and leaves, and even deformed fruit or reduced yields. Space the peppers 18 inches apart so roots have room to grow. Apply a low-nitrogen, high-phosphorus fertilizer, such as a 5-10-10 formula immediately after planting to establish strong roots. Water the plants as needed to keep the soil evenly moist.
Cultivation
Pull weeds by hand or cultivate them very shallowly with a hoe. The roots of pepper plants lie near the soil surface and are easily damaged by deep cultivation. Better yet, mulch pepper plants with thin layers of dried grass clippings or straw to reduce weed growth and prevent damage by weeding.
Disease
Peppers aren't particularly fussy about soil types, but the soil must be well-drained. In heavy, wet soils, peppers are prone to rotting roots and other diseases. Blossom-end rot may affect pepper fruits, causing the bottoms of the fruits to turn black. Prevent this disease by cultivating shallowly to avoid damaging the roots. Water the plants evenly and consistently, and add lime to the soil every two or three years if the soil is alkaline.
Root Depth
Most gardeners buy nursery transplants or start seeds indoors. When the young pepper transplants are set out in early summer, their root system encompasses the entire pot, usually 3 to 4 inches. By the end of the season, the pepper's roots may extend 8 to 12 inches deep and at least as wide, but they remain fairly fine. Pepper's roots are deeper than the roots of lettuce, broccoli or spinach, but remain fairly close to the surface.
Growing Conditions
Good growing conditions develop strong, deep roots. Wait until at least two weeks after the last frost before planting peppers and lay black plastic over the soil to warm it. Plant peppers when daytime temperatures are between 70 and 80 degrees Fahrenheit. Planting peppers too early in the season results in stunted roots and leaves, and even deformed fruit or reduced yields. Space the peppers 18 inches apart so roots have room to grow. Apply a low-nitrogen, high-phosphorus fertilizer, such as a 5-10-10 formula immediately after planting to establish strong roots. Water the plants as needed to keep the soil evenly moist.
Cultivation
Pull weeds by hand or cultivate them very shallowly with a hoe. The roots of pepper plants lie near the soil surface and are easily damaged by deep cultivation. Better yet, mulch pepper plants with thin layers of dried grass clippings or straw to reduce weed growth and prevent damage by weeding.
Disease
Peppers aren't particularly fussy about soil types, but the soil must be well-drained. In heavy, wet soils, peppers are prone to rotting roots and other diseases. Blossom-end rot may affect pepper fruits, causing the bottoms of the fruits to turn black. Prevent this disease by cultivating shallowly to avoid damaging the roots. Water the plants evenly and consistently, and add lime to the soil every two or three years if the soil is alkaline.
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文章
Miss Chen
2018年03月19日
Description: This perennial plant is 1-2' tall, with a stout smooth stem that is unbranched. The yellowish or olive green leaves are opposite and strongly clasp the central stem. However, the three leaves beneath the uppermost flowers are whorled. These leaves are broadly lanceolate, ovate, or cordate, and extend up to 3" long and 2" across. There is a prominent central vein, and two side veins that parallel the smooth margins. In the upper half of the plant, 2-7 flowers emerge from the axils of the leaves, with a greater number of flowers at the apex. The tube-shaped flowers are individually about 1½" long and ¾" across, and have 5 petals with small erect tips. They are white, greenish white, or yellowish white, depending on the local ecotype. The blooming period is late summer, and lasts about 1 or 1½ months. There is no noticeable fragrance to the flowers. The seed capsules split into 2 sections, releasing numerous small seeds that can be dispersed by wind or water. The root system consists of a long stout taproot.
Cultivation: The preference is full to partial sun, and moist to average soil conditions. The soil can contain significant amounts of loam, clay, gravel, or sand. Starting plants from seed can be tricky, while transplants are much easier to manage. A yellowish appearance of the leaves is a common reaction to strong sunlight or dry weather, and does not necessarily signify disease or poor health.
Range & Habitat: The native Cream Gentian is a rare plant that occurs in scattered counties in Illinois (see Distribution Map). It can be found in mesic black soil prairies, where it will occasionally form sizeable colonies. Other habitats include the edges of upland forests, sandy oak savannas, limestone glades, and rocky bluffs. Populations of this plant may have occurred in other habitats, such as sand or gravel prairies, but were destroyed before they could be identified.
Faunal Associations: Bumblebees are the primary pollinators of the flowers, where they seek nectar. Some beetles, such as Epicauta pensylvanica (Black Blister Beetle), have been known to knaw on the flowers. White-tailed Deer occasionally chomp off the tops of Cream Gentian plants, but it is not preferred as a food source because of the bitter leaves (personal observation). The relationship of Cream Gentian to other mammalian herbivores is not known at the present time.
Photographic Location: The photographs were taken at Meadowbrook Park in Urbana, Illinois.
Comments: This gentian can be easily distinguished from the others by the absence of blue in the flower. The flowers are not as closed as the Bottle Gentians (e.g., Gentiana andrewsii), but less open than the Prairie Gentian (Gentiana puberulenta). Cream Gentian also blooms about 3 weeks earlier than other gentians. Because it blends into the background of a prairie quite well, this plant can be easy to overlook, even when it is in flower. Like many other gentians, Cream Gentian has an otherworldly beauty that is oddly attractive. Another scientific name for this plant is Gentiana flavida.
Cultivation: The preference is full to partial sun, and moist to average soil conditions. The soil can contain significant amounts of loam, clay, gravel, or sand. Starting plants from seed can be tricky, while transplants are much easier to manage. A yellowish appearance of the leaves is a common reaction to strong sunlight or dry weather, and does not necessarily signify disease or poor health.
Range & Habitat: The native Cream Gentian is a rare plant that occurs in scattered counties in Illinois (see Distribution Map). It can be found in mesic black soil prairies, where it will occasionally form sizeable colonies. Other habitats include the edges of upland forests, sandy oak savannas, limestone glades, and rocky bluffs. Populations of this plant may have occurred in other habitats, such as sand or gravel prairies, but were destroyed before they could be identified.
Faunal Associations: Bumblebees are the primary pollinators of the flowers, where they seek nectar. Some beetles, such as Epicauta pensylvanica (Black Blister Beetle), have been known to knaw on the flowers. White-tailed Deer occasionally chomp off the tops of Cream Gentian plants, but it is not preferred as a food source because of the bitter leaves (personal observation). The relationship of Cream Gentian to other mammalian herbivores is not known at the present time.
Photographic Location: The photographs were taken at Meadowbrook Park in Urbana, Illinois.
Comments: This gentian can be easily distinguished from the others by the absence of blue in the flower. The flowers are not as closed as the Bottle Gentians (e.g., Gentiana andrewsii), but less open than the Prairie Gentian (Gentiana puberulenta). Cream Gentian also blooms about 3 weeks earlier than other gentians. Because it blends into the background of a prairie quite well, this plant can be easy to overlook, even when it is in flower. Like many other gentians, Cream Gentian has an otherworldly beauty that is oddly attractive. Another scientific name for this plant is Gentiana flavida.
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Miss Chen
2018年03月16日
Squash plants make up a large and diverse group of plants that fall under the genus Cucurbita. Common to all squashes is their vining growth, large, dark green leaves and yellow to orange flowers. They are divided into two main types, summer and winter squash, based on their time of harvest. The appearance and characteristics of squash fruit ranges widely, from small green zucchinis to giant orange pumpkins.
Foliage and Flowers
Squash leaves tend to be very large and exhibit three to five lobes. The plant's fruits, flowers, seeds and shoots are edible, along with the leaves. Flowers are large, trumpet-shaped, yellow to orange in color and have separate males and females. Male flowers produce pollen while female flowers mature into fruit. Whether you're growing winter or summer squash, the fruit provides an abundant and continuous harvest.
Summer Squash
Summer types often grow in a compact, bushing fashion with fruit that is usually smaller than winter squash. Harvest summer squash when fruit is still soft and immature, 50 to 65 days after planting. Zucchini is a green summer variety that is quickly ready for picking. Pick it when it reaches 4 to 5 inches in length, but pick varieties like Costata Romanesco when they reach 6 to 10 inches long. This variety produces many male blossoms, ideal for frying and eating. Yellow summer squash includes both straightneck and crookneck types.
Winter Squash
The key to growing winter squash is to allow plenty of room for each plant to spread. These plants can take over a garden with their fast-growing vines. Harvest when fruit is large and mature, usually in fall or winter, 80 to 120 days after sowing. Many types require curing to harden the shell, and are best if baked prior to consumption. The main varieties of winter squash include acorn, buttercup and butternut varieties. Acorn squash is just 2 pounds in weight with a slightly tapered, round acorn shape. Buttercup squash is similar to acorn squash, but larger and slighly flattened. Many of them, including the Sweet Mama cultivar, store well and easily last until February. Butternut squash is tan-colored, exhibits a sweet flavor and has a cylindrical shape with a bulb on the bottom end.
Growth Requirements
Squash plants are heavy feeders that grow quickly. They prefer plenty of heat during germination. For summer squash, ideal germinating soil temperature is 95 F, while winter squash germinates best at about 90 F. Direct sowing is best with these plants as they grow fast and do not transplant well. Provide rich, well-drained soil. Winter squash especially needs rich soil as it has a longer growing time and needs more nitrogen than its summertime counterpart. Harvest summer squash as soon as the fruit grows large enough, but do not allow it to over ripen or grow wrinkled in appearance. For winter squash, wait until stems dry and shrivel and skin is hard. Then cure the squash in the sun so the skin can dry completely.
Foliage and Flowers
Squash leaves tend to be very large and exhibit three to five lobes. The plant's fruits, flowers, seeds and shoots are edible, along with the leaves. Flowers are large, trumpet-shaped, yellow to orange in color and have separate males and females. Male flowers produce pollen while female flowers mature into fruit. Whether you're growing winter or summer squash, the fruit provides an abundant and continuous harvest.
Summer Squash
Summer types often grow in a compact, bushing fashion with fruit that is usually smaller than winter squash. Harvest summer squash when fruit is still soft and immature, 50 to 65 days after planting. Zucchini is a green summer variety that is quickly ready for picking. Pick it when it reaches 4 to 5 inches in length, but pick varieties like Costata Romanesco when they reach 6 to 10 inches long. This variety produces many male blossoms, ideal for frying and eating. Yellow summer squash includes both straightneck and crookneck types.
Winter Squash
The key to growing winter squash is to allow plenty of room for each plant to spread. These plants can take over a garden with their fast-growing vines. Harvest when fruit is large and mature, usually in fall or winter, 80 to 120 days after sowing. Many types require curing to harden the shell, and are best if baked prior to consumption. The main varieties of winter squash include acorn, buttercup and butternut varieties. Acorn squash is just 2 pounds in weight with a slightly tapered, round acorn shape. Buttercup squash is similar to acorn squash, but larger and slighly flattened. Many of them, including the Sweet Mama cultivar, store well and easily last until February. Butternut squash is tan-colored, exhibits a sweet flavor and has a cylindrical shape with a bulb on the bottom end.
Growth Requirements
Squash plants are heavy feeders that grow quickly. They prefer plenty of heat during germination. For summer squash, ideal germinating soil temperature is 95 F, while winter squash germinates best at about 90 F. Direct sowing is best with these plants as they grow fast and do not transplant well. Provide rich, well-drained soil. Winter squash especially needs rich soil as it has a longer growing time and needs more nitrogen than its summertime counterpart. Harvest summer squash as soon as the fruit grows large enough, but do not allow it to over ripen or grow wrinkled in appearance. For winter squash, wait until stems dry and shrivel and skin is hard. Then cure the squash in the sun so the skin can dry completely.
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Miss Chen
2018年03月02日
Description: This perennial plant is about 1-2½' tall. The stems have scattered white hairs and there is little branching, except for the production of long stalks for the flowers. The leaves occur in 1 or 2 whorls along the stem, usually in groups of 2 or 3. They are up to 5" long and across, and have long petioles with scattered white hairs. Each major leaf is divided into 2 or 3 deep lobes, which are in turn divided into 2 or 3 shallower lobes. Because these divisions are rather sharp, the leaves are cleft. Furthermore, the margins are coarsely serrate or dentate. The leaves are often light green or yellowish green in bright sunlight.
From the upper axil of each leaf, there occasionally develops a long stalk with a single flower about ¾" across when it is fully open. This flower consists of 5 white or greenish white sepals (looking like petals), and numerous stamens with yellow or light brown anthers surrounding a compound head of pistils. This pistillate head is green and prickly in appearance. This compound head becomes larger and more elongated as the sepals fall off. It is about ¾–1" long and up to ½" across, eventually turning into a fluffy mass with numerous dark seeds. These seeds are eventually distributed by the wind. The root system is rhizomatous, often producing vegetative offsets from the mother plant. Tall Anemone produces an allelopathic substance, protoanemonin, which inhibits seed germination and seedling growth in many species of plants.
Cultivation: The preference is light shade to full sun. The soil should contain loam with some organic material to retain moisture. Mature plants resist drought fairly well, and the leaves are not often subject to foliar disease.
Range & Habitat: The native Tall Anemone is a fairly common plant that occurs throughout Illinois, except for a few southern counties (see Distribution Map). Habitats include moist to mesic black soil prairies, savannas, open woodlands, woodland borders, thickets, and limestone glades. It usually doesn't stray far from wooded areas.
Faunal Associations: Small bees and flower flies visit the flowers occasionally for pollen. Bee visitors include Plasterer bees (Colletes spp.) and Halictid bees (Halictus spp., Lasioglossum spp., etc.). Mammalian herbivores usually leave this plant alone because the foliage contains a blistering agent that can irritate the mouth parts and digestive tract. When this plant forms colonies, it provides a minor source of cover for small animals.
Photographic Location: Photographs were taken at Meadowbrook Park in Urbana, Illinois.
Comments: This curious plant offers different attractions at different times of the year. During early summer, white flowers are produced, which are soon replaced by long-lasting thimble-shaped seedheads. During the fall, these seedheads slowly distintegrate into white cottony masses that remain attractive all winter. Tall Anemone can be easily distinguished from Anemone canadensis (Canada Anemone) because its leaves have conspicuous petioles, while the leaves of the latter species are sessile or perfoliate. Distinguishing Tall Anemone from Anemone cylindrica (Thimbleweed) is a bit trickier, but examination of the following characteristics are helpful: 1) the former species has a shorter, more prickly central head that is greater than 1/3" across, while the latter has a central head that is 1/3" across or less and is at least twice as long as it is wide; 2) the leaves of the former species are sharply tripartite (cleft) and have sharper dentation or serration along the margins, while the leaves of the latter are more likely to be palmate and less cleft and more blunt and fewer teeth along the margins.
From the upper axil of each leaf, there occasionally develops a long stalk with a single flower about ¾" across when it is fully open. This flower consists of 5 white or greenish white sepals (looking like petals), and numerous stamens with yellow or light brown anthers surrounding a compound head of pistils. This pistillate head is green and prickly in appearance. This compound head becomes larger and more elongated as the sepals fall off. It is about ¾–1" long and up to ½" across, eventually turning into a fluffy mass with numerous dark seeds. These seeds are eventually distributed by the wind. The root system is rhizomatous, often producing vegetative offsets from the mother plant. Tall Anemone produces an allelopathic substance, protoanemonin, which inhibits seed germination and seedling growth in many species of plants.
Cultivation: The preference is light shade to full sun. The soil should contain loam with some organic material to retain moisture. Mature plants resist drought fairly well, and the leaves are not often subject to foliar disease.
Range & Habitat: The native Tall Anemone is a fairly common plant that occurs throughout Illinois, except for a few southern counties (see Distribution Map). Habitats include moist to mesic black soil prairies, savannas, open woodlands, woodland borders, thickets, and limestone glades. It usually doesn't stray far from wooded areas.
Faunal Associations: Small bees and flower flies visit the flowers occasionally for pollen. Bee visitors include Plasterer bees (Colletes spp.) and Halictid bees (Halictus spp., Lasioglossum spp., etc.). Mammalian herbivores usually leave this plant alone because the foliage contains a blistering agent that can irritate the mouth parts and digestive tract. When this plant forms colonies, it provides a minor source of cover for small animals.
Photographic Location: Photographs were taken at Meadowbrook Park in Urbana, Illinois.
Comments: This curious plant offers different attractions at different times of the year. During early summer, white flowers are produced, which are soon replaced by long-lasting thimble-shaped seedheads. During the fall, these seedheads slowly distintegrate into white cottony masses that remain attractive all winter. Tall Anemone can be easily distinguished from Anemone canadensis (Canada Anemone) because its leaves have conspicuous petioles, while the leaves of the latter species are sessile or perfoliate. Distinguishing Tall Anemone from Anemone cylindrica (Thimbleweed) is a bit trickier, but examination of the following characteristics are helpful: 1) the former species has a shorter, more prickly central head that is greater than 1/3" across, while the latter has a central head that is 1/3" across or less and is at least twice as long as it is wide; 2) the leaves of the former species are sharply tripartite (cleft) and have sharper dentation or serration along the margins, while the leaves of the latter are more likely to be palmate and less cleft and more blunt and fewer teeth along the margins.
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Miss Chen
2018年03月01日
Description: This plant is a herbaceous perennial that becomes 1¼–2½' tall when it flowers. The central stem is light green, terete, sparsely hairy, and unbranched. Alternate compound leaves occur primarily along the lower one-half of this stem; they are odd-pinnate with 3-9 primary leaflets (usually about 5). In addition to the primary leaflets, there is usually a single pair of secondary leaflets on each compound leaf; these secondary leaflets are much smaller in size. Successive pairs of primary leaflets become gradually larger in size, while the terminal primary leaflet is the largest in size, for each compound leaf. The terminal primary leaflets are 2–3½" long and 1¼–2" across; all primary leaflets are obovate to broadly ellipsoid in shape, while their margins are coarsely dentate-crenate. The secondary leaflets are less than ½" long and lanceolate to elliptic in shape. All of the leaflets are sessile.
The upper leaflet surface is medium green or yellowish green and hairless (or nearly so), while the lower leaflet surface is light or whitish green and sparsely hairy along the undersides of primary veins. In addition, the lower leaflet surface usually has minute glandular hairs that can glisten in bright sunlight (a 10x hand lens may be necessary to see them). The petioles and rachises of the compound leaves are light green and sparsely hairy; they are flat or finely grooved along their upper surfaces, while their lower surfaces are convex. Pairs of stipules up to 1" long occur at the petiole bases of compound leaves. These stipules are either unlobed and lanceolate in shape, or they are divided into 2-3 lanceolate lobes. The central stem terminates in either an unbranched raceme or sparingly branched racemes of flowers. The racemes are spike-like in appearance and they are ½–1¼' long. If lateral racemes are present, they are shorter than the central raceme. The flowers are distributed alternately along each raceme. Each flower is about ¼" across or slightly larger in size, consisting of 5 yellow petals, 5 green sepals, 5-15 stamens, and a burry green hypanthium containing a pair of carpels (female reproductive organs). The rachis of each raceme is light to medium green, terete, sparsely hairy below, and short glandular-hairy above. The pedicels of the flowers are short (less than ¼" long).
The blooming period occurs from mid-summer to early autumn, lasting about 3 weeks. There is no noticeable floral scent. The burry fruits (mature hypanthia) are 3-4 mm. long and slightly less across; they are obconic-hemispheric below, tapering to a knobby apex above. Around the middle of each fruit, there are 2-3 rows of hooked spines that are widely spreading to ascending (mainly the latter). The obconic-hemispheric section of the fruit may have shallow longitudinal grooves, or such grooves may be lacking. The entire fruit is covered with very short glandular hairs. These fruits usually nod or hang downward from their pedicels. Each fruit contains are pair of seeds. The root system is fibrous, occasionally forming narrow spindle-shaped tubers.
Cultivation: The preference is partial sun to light shade, mesic to dry-mesic conditions, and soil containing loam, clay-loam, glacial till, or rocky material.
Range & Habitat: The native Woodland Agrimony is occasional in the southern half of Illinois and NE Illinois, while in the rest of the state it is uncommon or absent (see Distribution Map). Habitats include upland woodlands, upland savannas, rocky bluffs, and openings in upland woodlands. This plant is found in higher quality natural areas.
Faunal Associations: The flowers are cross-pollinated by Halictid bees, other small bees, Syrphid flies, and other flies. Insects that feed destructively on species of Agrimony (Agrimonia spp.) include the aphids Macrosiphum agrimoniellum and Macrosiphum pallidum, larvae of the gall fly Contarinia agrimoniae, larvae of the sawfly Fenella nigrita, and larvae of the moths Anacampsis agrimoniella and Coptotriche agrimoniella (Blackman & Eastop, 2013; Felt, 1917; Smith, 2006; Covell, 1984/2005; Microleps website, 2010). There is some evidence that White-tailed Deer browse on Woodland Agrimony (Agrimonia rostellata), reducing its abundance in wooded areas (Dávalos et al., 2014). The burry fruits can cling to the fur of mammals (cattle, sheep, deer), feathers of birds, and clothing of people, spreading the seeds to new areas.
Photographic Location: An opening in an upland woodland at Merwin Nature Preserve in McLain County, Illinois.
Comments: The different species of Agrimony (Agrimonia spp.) all have spike-like racemes of small yellow flowers and compound leaves that are odd-pinnate. Their compound leaves are unusual in having smaller secondary leaflets interspersed between the larger primary leaflets. Because they are similar in appearance, different species of Agrimony can be difficult to identify. Woodland Agrimony (Agrimonia rostellata) can be distinguished from these other species of Agrimony by examining its fruits: 1) its burry fruits tend to be smaller in size (3-4 mm. long), 2) they have fewer bristles that are spreading to ascending, and 3) they are more hemispheric below and develop a knob-like beak above, rather than being obconic below and with a more tapered beak above. In addition to its fruits, Woodland Agrimony can be distinguished from some species of Agrimony by the short glandular hairs on its floral stalks, the scarcity of secondary leaflets on its compound leaves, the presence of minute glandular hairs on the lower sides of its leaflets (this can be difficult to see), and its greater tendency to develop branching racemes of flowers. Overall, Woodland Agrimony tends to be less robust and smaller in size than other species of Agrimony within the state.
The upper leaflet surface is medium green or yellowish green and hairless (or nearly so), while the lower leaflet surface is light or whitish green and sparsely hairy along the undersides of primary veins. In addition, the lower leaflet surface usually has minute glandular hairs that can glisten in bright sunlight (a 10x hand lens may be necessary to see them). The petioles and rachises of the compound leaves are light green and sparsely hairy; they are flat or finely grooved along their upper surfaces, while their lower surfaces are convex. Pairs of stipules up to 1" long occur at the petiole bases of compound leaves. These stipules are either unlobed and lanceolate in shape, or they are divided into 2-3 lanceolate lobes. The central stem terminates in either an unbranched raceme or sparingly branched racemes of flowers. The racemes are spike-like in appearance and they are ½–1¼' long. If lateral racemes are present, they are shorter than the central raceme. The flowers are distributed alternately along each raceme. Each flower is about ¼" across or slightly larger in size, consisting of 5 yellow petals, 5 green sepals, 5-15 stamens, and a burry green hypanthium containing a pair of carpels (female reproductive organs). The rachis of each raceme is light to medium green, terete, sparsely hairy below, and short glandular-hairy above. The pedicels of the flowers are short (less than ¼" long).
The blooming period occurs from mid-summer to early autumn, lasting about 3 weeks. There is no noticeable floral scent. The burry fruits (mature hypanthia) are 3-4 mm. long and slightly less across; they are obconic-hemispheric below, tapering to a knobby apex above. Around the middle of each fruit, there are 2-3 rows of hooked spines that are widely spreading to ascending (mainly the latter). The obconic-hemispheric section of the fruit may have shallow longitudinal grooves, or such grooves may be lacking. The entire fruit is covered with very short glandular hairs. These fruits usually nod or hang downward from their pedicels. Each fruit contains are pair of seeds. The root system is fibrous, occasionally forming narrow spindle-shaped tubers.
Cultivation: The preference is partial sun to light shade, mesic to dry-mesic conditions, and soil containing loam, clay-loam, glacial till, or rocky material.
Range & Habitat: The native Woodland Agrimony is occasional in the southern half of Illinois and NE Illinois, while in the rest of the state it is uncommon or absent (see Distribution Map). Habitats include upland woodlands, upland savannas, rocky bluffs, and openings in upland woodlands. This plant is found in higher quality natural areas.
Faunal Associations: The flowers are cross-pollinated by Halictid bees, other small bees, Syrphid flies, and other flies. Insects that feed destructively on species of Agrimony (Agrimonia spp.) include the aphids Macrosiphum agrimoniellum and Macrosiphum pallidum, larvae of the gall fly Contarinia agrimoniae, larvae of the sawfly Fenella nigrita, and larvae of the moths Anacampsis agrimoniella and Coptotriche agrimoniella (Blackman & Eastop, 2013; Felt, 1917; Smith, 2006; Covell, 1984/2005; Microleps website, 2010). There is some evidence that White-tailed Deer browse on Woodland Agrimony (Agrimonia rostellata), reducing its abundance in wooded areas (Dávalos et al., 2014). The burry fruits can cling to the fur of mammals (cattle, sheep, deer), feathers of birds, and clothing of people, spreading the seeds to new areas.
Photographic Location: An opening in an upland woodland at Merwin Nature Preserve in McLain County, Illinois.
Comments: The different species of Agrimony (Agrimonia spp.) all have spike-like racemes of small yellow flowers and compound leaves that are odd-pinnate. Their compound leaves are unusual in having smaller secondary leaflets interspersed between the larger primary leaflets. Because they are similar in appearance, different species of Agrimony can be difficult to identify. Woodland Agrimony (Agrimonia rostellata) can be distinguished from these other species of Agrimony by examining its fruits: 1) its burry fruits tend to be smaller in size (3-4 mm. long), 2) they have fewer bristles that are spreading to ascending, and 3) they are more hemispheric below and develop a knob-like beak above, rather than being obconic below and with a more tapered beak above. In addition to its fruits, Woodland Agrimony can be distinguished from some species of Agrimony by the short glandular hairs on its floral stalks, the scarcity of secondary leaflets on its compound leaves, the presence of minute glandular hairs on the lower sides of its leaflets (this can be difficult to see), and its greater tendency to develop branching racemes of flowers. Overall, Woodland Agrimony tends to be less robust and smaller in size than other species of Agrimony within the state.
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Miss Chen
2018年01月21日
Description: This perennial wildflower is 1-2½' tall and usually unbranched, except toward the apex where the flowers occur. Often a cluster of leafy stems originate from the same taproot. The rather stout stems are light green, very hairy, and either terete or shallowly grooved. Along each stem, there are 12 or more alternate leaves that are ascending to widely spreading. Individual leaves are 1½-3" long, ¼-¾" across, pale green to dark green, and sessile; they are narrowly lanceolate to lanceolate with margins that are toothless and ciliate. Both the upper and lower surfaces of the leaves are hairy.
The upper stems terminate in curved racemes of flowers, forming together a flat-headed cluster of flowers. Each flower is about ¾" across, consisting of a yellow to orange-yellow corolla with 5 large rounded lobes, a green hairy calyx with 5 linear-lanceolate teeth, 5 inserted stamens, and a pistil with an inserted style. The tubular corolla has a narrow throat with widely spreading lobes; it is minutely hairy just below the opening of the throat. On some plants, the flowers have long stamens and short styles, while the flowers of other plants have short stamens and long styles. The blooming period occurs from late spring to mid-summer, lasting about 4 weeks. There is no noticeable floral scent. Afterwards, each flower is replaced by 4 shiny white nutlets (or sometimes fewer) that are visible from above. They are distributed by gravity and usually remain near the mother plant. The root system consists of a short stout taproot that is red to reddish purple. This wildflower reproduces by reseeding itself.
Cultivation: The preference is full or partial sun, dry-mesic to dry conditions, and sandy soil. Because the nutlets are difficult to germinate and transplants often fail, this wildflower is not widely available from nurseries, and as a result it is rarely cultivated.
Range & Habitat: The native Hairy Puccoon is occasional in sandy areas of central and northern Illinois, while in the rest of the state it is rare or absent (see Distribution Map). Habitats include open sandy woodlands, sandy savannas, upland sand prairies, sandy hill prairies, sand dunes along Lake Michigan, and sandy embankments along roads and railroads. Occasional disturbance from wildfires and other sources is beneficial if it reduces competition from woody vegetation.
Faunal Associations: The showy flowers are cross-pollinated by such butterflies and skippers as Lycaeides melissa samuelis (Karner Blue) and Poanes hobomok (Hobomok Skipper). The larvae of a long-horned beetle, Hemierana marginata ardens, feed on native Lithospermum spp. (puccoons), probably by boring through the stems or roots. The adults of this beetle mimic fireflies (Lampyridae), probably because of the latter's unpalatability to birds and other predators. The caterpillars of Ethmia longimaculella (Streaked Ethmia Moth) and Ethmia fuscipedella (Gray Ethmia Moth) are known to feed on native puccoons as well. The latter moth is also referred to as Ethmia monticola fuscipedella. White-Tailed Deer occasionally browse on Hairy Puccoon.
Photographic Location: A sandy savanna at the Oak Openings Nature Preserve in NW Ohio, and a stabilized sand dune with scattered oak trees at the Indiana Dunes State Park in NW Indiana.
Comments: The flowers of this wildflower are very showy and brilliantly colored – they can be seen from a considerable distance. Hairy Puccoon is one of three native puccoons (Lithospermum spp.) in Illinois. It can be distinguished from Hoary Puccoon (Lithospermum canescens) by its larger flowers, rough hairs on its foliage, and somewhat greater height. Hoary Puccoon has an abundance of hairs on its foliage, but they have a softer texture. The remaining native species, Fringed Puccoon (Lithospermum incisum), has flowers with fringed lobes, rather than rounded lobes. This latter species also has more narrow leaves. There are some Lithospermum spp. from Eurasia in Illinois, but none of them have the showy yellow to orange-yellow flowers of the native puccoons. Sometimes the scientific name of Hairy Puccoon is spelled Lithospermum carolinense. The specimens of Hairy Puccoon in Illinois (and Ohio) are considered examples of a northern variety of this species, Lithospermum caroliniense croceum. Some authors (e.g., Mohlenbrock, 2014) prefer to treat this variety as a distinct species, Lithospermum croceum, but this viewpoint is not widely accepted at the present time.
The upper stems terminate in curved racemes of flowers, forming together a flat-headed cluster of flowers. Each flower is about ¾" across, consisting of a yellow to orange-yellow corolla with 5 large rounded lobes, a green hairy calyx with 5 linear-lanceolate teeth, 5 inserted stamens, and a pistil with an inserted style. The tubular corolla has a narrow throat with widely spreading lobes; it is minutely hairy just below the opening of the throat. On some plants, the flowers have long stamens and short styles, while the flowers of other plants have short stamens and long styles. The blooming period occurs from late spring to mid-summer, lasting about 4 weeks. There is no noticeable floral scent. Afterwards, each flower is replaced by 4 shiny white nutlets (or sometimes fewer) that are visible from above. They are distributed by gravity and usually remain near the mother plant. The root system consists of a short stout taproot that is red to reddish purple. This wildflower reproduces by reseeding itself.
Cultivation: The preference is full or partial sun, dry-mesic to dry conditions, and sandy soil. Because the nutlets are difficult to germinate and transplants often fail, this wildflower is not widely available from nurseries, and as a result it is rarely cultivated.
Range & Habitat: The native Hairy Puccoon is occasional in sandy areas of central and northern Illinois, while in the rest of the state it is rare or absent (see Distribution Map). Habitats include open sandy woodlands, sandy savannas, upland sand prairies, sandy hill prairies, sand dunes along Lake Michigan, and sandy embankments along roads and railroads. Occasional disturbance from wildfires and other sources is beneficial if it reduces competition from woody vegetation.
Faunal Associations: The showy flowers are cross-pollinated by such butterflies and skippers as Lycaeides melissa samuelis (Karner Blue) and Poanes hobomok (Hobomok Skipper). The larvae of a long-horned beetle, Hemierana marginata ardens, feed on native Lithospermum spp. (puccoons), probably by boring through the stems or roots. The adults of this beetle mimic fireflies (Lampyridae), probably because of the latter's unpalatability to birds and other predators. The caterpillars of Ethmia longimaculella (Streaked Ethmia Moth) and Ethmia fuscipedella (Gray Ethmia Moth) are known to feed on native puccoons as well. The latter moth is also referred to as Ethmia monticola fuscipedella. White-Tailed Deer occasionally browse on Hairy Puccoon.
Photographic Location: A sandy savanna at the Oak Openings Nature Preserve in NW Ohio, and a stabilized sand dune with scattered oak trees at the Indiana Dunes State Park in NW Indiana.
Comments: The flowers of this wildflower are very showy and brilliantly colored – they can be seen from a considerable distance. Hairy Puccoon is one of three native puccoons (Lithospermum spp.) in Illinois. It can be distinguished from Hoary Puccoon (Lithospermum canescens) by its larger flowers, rough hairs on its foliage, and somewhat greater height. Hoary Puccoon has an abundance of hairs on its foliage, but they have a softer texture. The remaining native species, Fringed Puccoon (Lithospermum incisum), has flowers with fringed lobes, rather than rounded lobes. This latter species also has more narrow leaves. There are some Lithospermum spp. from Eurasia in Illinois, but none of them have the showy yellow to orange-yellow flowers of the native puccoons. Sometimes the scientific name of Hairy Puccoon is spelled Lithospermum carolinense. The specimens of Hairy Puccoon in Illinois (and Ohio) are considered examples of a northern variety of this species, Lithospermum caroliniense croceum. Some authors (e.g., Mohlenbrock, 2014) prefer to treat this variety as a distinct species, Lithospermum croceum, but this viewpoint is not widely accepted at the present time.
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Miss Chen
2018年01月12日
Description: This herbaceous perennial wildflower is 4-10" tall and more or less erect. A small rosette of basal leaves may be produced, but it withers away before the flowers bloom. The margins of these basal leaves, when present, are hairless. Multiple flowering stems are produced that often branch. These stems are light to medium green, 4-angled, and either hairless or slightly hairy along their angled margins. Pairs of opposite leaves occur at intervals along each stem. These leaves are about ½–1" long and less than ¼" across; they are medium green, lanceolate-oblong or linear-lanceolate, smooth or ciliate along their margins, and single-veined. Secondary leafy stems often develop from the axils of the opposite leaves along the primary stem.
The upper stems terminate in small flat-headed clusters of flowers. Individual flowers are about ¼" across, consisting of a tubular corolla with 4 spreading lobes and a green calyx with 4 linear-lanceolate teeth. The color of the corolla can vary from pale purplish pink to white; there are conspicuous hairs along its throat. The flowers of Long-Leaved Bluets are dimorphic: some flowers have long fertile styles and short aborted stamens, while other flowers have short aborted styles and long fertile stamens. Each fertile style has a pair of flattened stigmata at its apex. The blooming period occurs from late spring to mid-summer and lasts about a month. The flowers are replaced by globoid 2-celled seed capsules that are a little shorter than the teeth of their calyces. Each cell of a seed capsule contains several small seeds. The root system consists of a small crown with long fibrous roots underneath. This wildflower spreads into new areas by reseeding itself.
Cultivation: The preference is full or partial sun, mesic to dry conditions, and a rather sterile soil that is rocky or gravelly. This species will adapt to rock gardens and it is not difficult to cultivate.
Range & Habitat: The native Long-Leaved Bluets occurs occasionally in northern and southern Illinois, while in the central section of the state it is largely absent (see Distribution Map). Habitats include dry gravel prairies, hill prairies, rocky glades, and rocky upland woodlands. This wildflower is normally found in high quality natural areas.
Faunal Associations: The flowers are pollinated primarily by small bees, including Halictid bees (Lasioglossum spp., Halictus spp., etc.), masked bees (Hylaeus spp.), little carpenter bees (Ceratina spp.), and mason bees (Hoplitis spp.). These insects suck nectar and collect pollen from the flowers. The caterpillars of a small moth, Thyris maculata (Spotted Thyris), feed on the leaves of Houstonia spp. (Bluets). The foliage is not known to be toxic, therefore it may be eaten occasionally by the Cottontail Rabbit and other mammalian herbivores.
Photographic Location: The wildflower garden of the webmaster in Urbana, Illinois.
Comments: This is a dainty plant that produces abundant small flowers if it receives some sunlight. Long-Leaved Bluets is smaller in size than Houstonia purpurea (Broad-Leaved Bluets), but larger in size than several other bluets, including Houstonia caerulea (Quaker Ladies) and Houstonia pusilla (Small Bluets). Long-Leaved Bluets is very similar in appearance to Houstonia canadensis (Canada Bluets); some authorities consider the latter species to be a variety of the former, or Houstonia longifolia ciliata. Canada Bluets is supposed to have more persistent basal leaves with ciliate margins, flowering stems that are fewer in number and less branched, and slightly longer corolla lobes. Because the ranges of these two species overlap and they may intergrade, it is not always possible to reliably assign field specimens to one species or another. A scientific synonym of Long-Leaved Bluets is Hedyotis longifolia.
The upper stems terminate in small flat-headed clusters of flowers. Individual flowers are about ¼" across, consisting of a tubular corolla with 4 spreading lobes and a green calyx with 4 linear-lanceolate teeth. The color of the corolla can vary from pale purplish pink to white; there are conspicuous hairs along its throat. The flowers of Long-Leaved Bluets are dimorphic: some flowers have long fertile styles and short aborted stamens, while other flowers have short aborted styles and long fertile stamens. Each fertile style has a pair of flattened stigmata at its apex. The blooming period occurs from late spring to mid-summer and lasts about a month. The flowers are replaced by globoid 2-celled seed capsules that are a little shorter than the teeth of their calyces. Each cell of a seed capsule contains several small seeds. The root system consists of a small crown with long fibrous roots underneath. This wildflower spreads into new areas by reseeding itself.
Cultivation: The preference is full or partial sun, mesic to dry conditions, and a rather sterile soil that is rocky or gravelly. This species will adapt to rock gardens and it is not difficult to cultivate.
Range & Habitat: The native Long-Leaved Bluets occurs occasionally in northern and southern Illinois, while in the central section of the state it is largely absent (see Distribution Map). Habitats include dry gravel prairies, hill prairies, rocky glades, and rocky upland woodlands. This wildflower is normally found in high quality natural areas.
Faunal Associations: The flowers are pollinated primarily by small bees, including Halictid bees (Lasioglossum spp., Halictus spp., etc.), masked bees (Hylaeus spp.), little carpenter bees (Ceratina spp.), and mason bees (Hoplitis spp.). These insects suck nectar and collect pollen from the flowers. The caterpillars of a small moth, Thyris maculata (Spotted Thyris), feed on the leaves of Houstonia spp. (Bluets). The foliage is not known to be toxic, therefore it may be eaten occasionally by the Cottontail Rabbit and other mammalian herbivores.
Photographic Location: The wildflower garden of the webmaster in Urbana, Illinois.
Comments: This is a dainty plant that produces abundant small flowers if it receives some sunlight. Long-Leaved Bluets is smaller in size than Houstonia purpurea (Broad-Leaved Bluets), but larger in size than several other bluets, including Houstonia caerulea (Quaker Ladies) and Houstonia pusilla (Small Bluets). Long-Leaved Bluets is very similar in appearance to Houstonia canadensis (Canada Bluets); some authorities consider the latter species to be a variety of the former, or Houstonia longifolia ciliata. Canada Bluets is supposed to have more persistent basal leaves with ciliate margins, flowering stems that are fewer in number and less branched, and slightly longer corolla lobes. Because the ranges of these two species overlap and they may intergrade, it is not always possible to reliably assign field specimens to one species or another. A scientific synonym of Long-Leaved Bluets is Hedyotis longifolia.
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