文章
Miss Chen
2018年08月13日
Potted mums are usually treated as annual flowers because they cannot tolerate the cold conditions during the winter months. Most potted varieties are known as florist's mums since they are sold as a living seasonal bouquet. A different mum variety, called hardy mum, is typically grown as a bedding plant. Tender, potted mums can survive the winter months with proper care and protection from frost, providing you with a second year of flowering the following fall.
Remove the mums from the pot they came in once flowering completes. Divide the roots of the separate plants. Most purchased mums come three or more plants to a pot.
Replant the mums into 6-inch diameter pots filled with standard potting soil, planting one plant per pot. Plant the mums at the same depth they were growing at in the previous pot.
Cut back the old flower stems on each mum plant. Trim the stems after the foliage begins to die back naturally.
Bring the mums indoors once the outdoor temperature drops below 60 degrees F. Place the mums in a sunny window. Leave mums outdoors in areas with warm winters.
Water the mums when the top of the soil begins to feel dry. Provide enough water to moisten the soil but avoid overwatering, which can cause soggy soil conditions.
Pinch off the top inch of each shoot once the shoots are approximately 6 inches long. Pinching causes lateral branching and further flower bud formation. Continue to pinch the plants until late July.
Move the plants outdoors once nighttime temperatures are regularly above 60 degrees F in spring. Bring the plants indoors temporarily if a late season frost is expected.
Remove the mums from the pot they came in once flowering completes. Divide the roots of the separate plants. Most purchased mums come three or more plants to a pot.
Replant the mums into 6-inch diameter pots filled with standard potting soil, planting one plant per pot. Plant the mums at the same depth they were growing at in the previous pot.
Cut back the old flower stems on each mum plant. Trim the stems after the foliage begins to die back naturally.
Bring the mums indoors once the outdoor temperature drops below 60 degrees F. Place the mums in a sunny window. Leave mums outdoors in areas with warm winters.
Water the mums when the top of the soil begins to feel dry. Provide enough water to moisten the soil but avoid overwatering, which can cause soggy soil conditions.
Pinch off the top inch of each shoot once the shoots are approximately 6 inches long. Pinching causes lateral branching and further flower bud formation. Continue to pinch the plants until late July.
Move the plants outdoors once nighttime temperatures are regularly above 60 degrees F in spring. Bring the plants indoors temporarily if a late season frost is expected.
0
0
文章
Miss Chen
2018年08月12日
Varieged ginger (Alpinia zerumbet) is a dramatic, upright plant with long, sword-shaped leaves variegated in shades of yellow and green. Fragrant pink and white flowers adorn the plant throughout much of the year. Variegated ginger, which grows from underground rhizomes that look much like ginger root, is propagated by dividing the rhizomes of mature plants. A warm-climate plant, variegated ginger is suitable for planting in U.S. Department of Agriculture hardiness zones 9 to 11.
Growing Requirements
Variegated ginger is a versatile plant that tolerates a range of growing conditions from full shade to full sun, but the plant is happiest in partial shade and benefits from protection during the hot part of the afternoon. The plant tolerates nearly any well-drained soil, but prefers rich organic soil.
Propagation by Division
To divide variegated shell ginger, use a shovel or garden fork to dig an entire clump. Alternatively, if the clump is very large, use a shovel to dig a section of the plant's outer edge. Lift the clump from the ground, then pull the rhizomes apart. Plant the rhizomes with the shoots attached, or remove the shoots and plant the rhizomes.
Planting Divisions
Plant divided ginger in soil that you have prepared ahead of time. Variegated ginger likes fertile soil and benefits from the addition of 2 to 4 inches of organic matter such as leaf mold, compost or decomposed manure. Plant the rhizomes, or the rhizomes with shoots attached, at the same soil depth the rhizomes were located in their original planting spot. Cover the rhizomes with soil, then pat the soil firmly over the rhizomes. Water the area immediately after planting.
General Care
Variegated ginger is moderately drought tolerant, but does best in soil kept consistently moist. Regular watering is especially critical during periods of hot, dry weather, or if the plant is located in full sunlight. Water often enough to keep the soil moist but not soggy. Fertilize variegated ginger every other month, using a balanced, dry fertilizer. Apply fertilizer in accordance with the specifications provided on the label.
Growing Requirements
Variegated ginger is a versatile plant that tolerates a range of growing conditions from full shade to full sun, but the plant is happiest in partial shade and benefits from protection during the hot part of the afternoon. The plant tolerates nearly any well-drained soil, but prefers rich organic soil.
Propagation by Division
To divide variegated shell ginger, use a shovel or garden fork to dig an entire clump. Alternatively, if the clump is very large, use a shovel to dig a section of the plant's outer edge. Lift the clump from the ground, then pull the rhizomes apart. Plant the rhizomes with the shoots attached, or remove the shoots and plant the rhizomes.
Planting Divisions
Plant divided ginger in soil that you have prepared ahead of time. Variegated ginger likes fertile soil and benefits from the addition of 2 to 4 inches of organic matter such as leaf mold, compost or decomposed manure. Plant the rhizomes, or the rhizomes with shoots attached, at the same soil depth the rhizomes were located in their original planting spot. Cover the rhizomes with soil, then pat the soil firmly over the rhizomes. Water the area immediately after planting.
General Care
Variegated ginger is moderately drought tolerant, but does best in soil kept consistently moist. Regular watering is especially critical during periods of hot, dry weather, or if the plant is located in full sunlight. Water often enough to keep the soil moist but not soggy. Fertilize variegated ginger every other month, using a balanced, dry fertilizer. Apply fertilizer in accordance with the specifications provided on the label.
0
0
文章
Miss Chen
2018年08月11日
Black-eyed Susans (Rudbeckia) add a dramatic swash of color to summer garden beds, borders and planters. Most varieties have bright yellow blossoms, but red and purple varieties are also available. The upturned flowers have a central black seed cone that earns the plants their name. Seed production prevents the plants from producing a second set of blooms later in the season. Cutting back the black-eyed Susans can reward you with blooms throughout the growing season.
Step 1
Trim back the flower stems in summer after the blossoms begin to wilt. Cut the stems off ¼ inch above the topmost leaf. Plants that are cut back may flower a second time in the fall.
Step 2
Cut back the the entire black-eyed Susan plant after the first fall frost kills off any remaining flowers. Prune the stems down to just above the top healthy leaves. Cut off any dead or browned leaves.
Step 3
Spread a 2- to 4-inch layer of mulch over the black-eyed Susan bed once the ground begins to freeze, typically after three to four fall frosts have occurred. Mulch protects the crown of the trimmed flowers and helps them survive winter.
Step 1
Trim back the flower stems in summer after the blossoms begin to wilt. Cut the stems off ¼ inch above the topmost leaf. Plants that are cut back may flower a second time in the fall.
Step 2
Cut back the the entire black-eyed Susan plant after the first fall frost kills off any remaining flowers. Prune the stems down to just above the top healthy leaves. Cut off any dead or browned leaves.
Step 3
Spread a 2- to 4-inch layer of mulch over the black-eyed Susan bed once the ground begins to freeze, typically after three to four fall frosts have occurred. Mulch protects the crown of the trimmed flowers and helps them survive winter.
0
0
文章
Miss Chen
2018年08月10日
The flowers called daisies are all members of the aster family but differ in hardiness, culture and bloom period. In addition to the traditional white Shasta daisy, several other daisies grow in most U.S. hardiness zones. Unfortunately, "daisy" is a common name and scientific names shift from time to time. Whatever their names, though, cutting gardens yield long-lasting bouquets all summer when planted with several varieties of these sun-loving flowers.
Shasta Daisies
Shasta daisies bloom from late spring to early fall on 1- to 3-foot plants. Once classified as chrysanthemums, Shastas are now Leucanthemum x superbum. They have a tendency to droop over, but if they are cut frequently and deadheaded when blooms begin to fade, they will continue to bloom all summer long. They will continue their vigorous bloom if mature clumps are divided every two or three years and the non-productive center of the clump is discarded. Shastas' twisted stems may limit their usefulness to small arrangements and bouquets. As cut flowers, Shasta daisies last a week to 10 days.
Painted Daisies
Another variety, painted daisies (Tanacetum coccineum), blooms in white, yellows, reds and pinks beginning in midsummer. Plants grow about 2 feet tall and strong stems bear flowers from midsummer to early fall. White painted daisies will change color when food coloring is added to their water. Painted daisies last from a week to 10 days when water is kept fresh.
Michaelmas Daisy
Michaelmas daisies (Aster novae-angliae) grow tallest of all the daisies -- up to 5 feet -- bearing purple, lavender, pink, red and white flowers. They bloom late summer through fall and, like most daisies, prefer full sun and well-drained soil. Cut when they are fully open, Michaelmas daisies stay fresh in arrangements and vases from five to 10 days.
Marguerite Daisy
White and pastel yellow Marguerite daisies (Anthemis tinctoria) bloom in summer on 2- to 3-foot plants. Short-lived Marguerites tolerate drought and frequent division. Picked just as they begin to open, summer-blooming Marguerites stay fresh up to 10 days in clean water.
Ox-Eye Daisy
Ox-eye daisies (Leucanthemum vulgare) grow from 1 to 3 feet tall and are classified as invasive weeds in some states due to the aggressive growth of their rhizomes. White flowers of Leucanthemum vulgare measure less than 2 inches across and are drought tolerant. Cut blooms last between five and 10 days.
Gerbera Daisy
Gerber daisies (Gerbera jamesonii or Gerbera x hybrid), native to the Traansvaal area of South Africa, grow as tender perennials or container plants in temperate zones of the United States. They bloom in spring and summer in semi-tropical zones where they can grow year-round. Blooms vary from 3 to 5 inches across and come in red-orange, salmon, pinks, yellow and white. Flowers last 10 days if water is changed every few days and stems are trimmed underwater daily.
Shasta Daisies
Shasta daisies bloom from late spring to early fall on 1- to 3-foot plants. Once classified as chrysanthemums, Shastas are now Leucanthemum x superbum. They have a tendency to droop over, but if they are cut frequently and deadheaded when blooms begin to fade, they will continue to bloom all summer long. They will continue their vigorous bloom if mature clumps are divided every two or three years and the non-productive center of the clump is discarded. Shastas' twisted stems may limit their usefulness to small arrangements and bouquets. As cut flowers, Shasta daisies last a week to 10 days.
Painted Daisies
Another variety, painted daisies (Tanacetum coccineum), blooms in white, yellows, reds and pinks beginning in midsummer. Plants grow about 2 feet tall and strong stems bear flowers from midsummer to early fall. White painted daisies will change color when food coloring is added to their water. Painted daisies last from a week to 10 days when water is kept fresh.
Michaelmas Daisy
Michaelmas daisies (Aster novae-angliae) grow tallest of all the daisies -- up to 5 feet -- bearing purple, lavender, pink, red and white flowers. They bloom late summer through fall and, like most daisies, prefer full sun and well-drained soil. Cut when they are fully open, Michaelmas daisies stay fresh in arrangements and vases from five to 10 days.
Marguerite Daisy
White and pastel yellow Marguerite daisies (Anthemis tinctoria) bloom in summer on 2- to 3-foot plants. Short-lived Marguerites tolerate drought and frequent division. Picked just as they begin to open, summer-blooming Marguerites stay fresh up to 10 days in clean water.
Ox-Eye Daisy
Ox-eye daisies (Leucanthemum vulgare) grow from 1 to 3 feet tall and are classified as invasive weeds in some states due to the aggressive growth of their rhizomes. White flowers of Leucanthemum vulgare measure less than 2 inches across and are drought tolerant. Cut blooms last between five and 10 days.
Gerbera Daisy
Gerber daisies (Gerbera jamesonii or Gerbera x hybrid), native to the Traansvaal area of South Africa, grow as tender perennials or container plants in temperate zones of the United States. They bloom in spring and summer in semi-tropical zones where they can grow year-round. Blooms vary from 3 to 5 inches across and come in red-orange, salmon, pinks, yellow and white. Flowers last 10 days if water is changed every few days and stems are trimmed underwater daily.
0
0
文章
Miss Chen
2018年08月10日
You probably know chrysanthemums (Chrysanthemum spp.) -- or mums -- as familiar plants covered with colorful flowers that brighten the fall landscape. Although often seen in plant nurseries as container-grown specimens ready to flower in early fall, they are hardy perennial plants. The variety commonly called hardy garden mum (Chrysanthemum morifolium), for example, grows as a perennial in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 5 through 9. When planted in spring within their growing range and given the right kind of summer care, mums become well-established and usually return each spring to bring their bright colors to the fall garden.
Watering and Feeding
If you plant young mums in spring or overwintered mums showing new growth, then keep them well-watered during late spring and into the summer months. Regular supplies of moisture is especially important for them during hot, dry weather. So water the plants deeply whenever the top 1 inch of their soil feels dry to the touch. During dry spells, a good rule of thumb is to water once each week, but water at each plant's base to keep foliage dry and discourage the growth of fungus. Adding 2 or 3 inches of organic mulch such as shredded bark on the soil surface under the plants helps conserve soil moisture, but keep the mulch back a bit from each plant's center to help prevent fungal diseases.
Feeding, or fertilizing, mums during their growing season -- late spring through summer -- also helps them put out strong growth and set lots of flower buds. Use a water-soluble, high-phosphorous fertilizer formula such as 5-10-5 to boost blooming, diluting the fertilizer by mixing 1 tablespoon of it in 1 gallon of water. Apply the fertilizer solution once each month during the growing season for the best results, using it instead of a regular watering.
Pinching Back for Bushiness
If you plant young mum plants in the garden in spring or grow mums from the previous season, then pinch off the tips on their new stems when they are about 6 inches long, using your fingertips or shears that you wipe with rubbing alcohol after each cut to prevent the spread of plant diseases. When new side shoots -- laterals -- sprout at each trimmed tip, also pinch them back when they're 6 to 8 inches long. Continue trimming back new shoots as they appear until midsummer. Then let the plants grow without further cutting. This approach produces compact but bushy mums with masses of flower buds.
Avoiding Problems
Mums are usually trouble-free and simple to grow, but they may develop a fungal disease if grown in overly wet conditions. You could see white powder from powdery mildew on their leaves, or gray mold could cause grayish deposits on the leaves and stems. Keeping plants well-spaced for good air circulation and watering each plant at its base helps avoid these fungal problems. If you see signs of fungus, though, it's best to remove the affected parts of the plants, cutting into healthy tissue behind the damaged parts. Discard all plant debris on a regular basis because it can harbor fungus. If a fungal problem is severe, remove mulch from under the plants to help the plants dry quickly after rain or watering.
Mums are usually pest-free, but small, mahogany-tinted insects called chrysanthemum aphids might become a problem, sucking plant juices and slowing plant growth. A chrysanthemum aphid nymph is 2/100 to 4/100 inch long; an adult without wings is 6/100 inch long, and an adult with wings can grow almost 1/10 inch long. If you see these pests on a mum, spray the plant with insecticidal soap, diluted at a rate of 5 tablespoons of insecticidal soap concentrate per 1 gallon of water, and repeat the treatment every two weeks as needed.
Watering and Feeding
If you plant young mums in spring or overwintered mums showing new growth, then keep them well-watered during late spring and into the summer months. Regular supplies of moisture is especially important for them during hot, dry weather. So water the plants deeply whenever the top 1 inch of their soil feels dry to the touch. During dry spells, a good rule of thumb is to water once each week, but water at each plant's base to keep foliage dry and discourage the growth of fungus. Adding 2 or 3 inches of organic mulch such as shredded bark on the soil surface under the plants helps conserve soil moisture, but keep the mulch back a bit from each plant's center to help prevent fungal diseases.
Feeding, or fertilizing, mums during their growing season -- late spring through summer -- also helps them put out strong growth and set lots of flower buds. Use a water-soluble, high-phosphorous fertilizer formula such as 5-10-5 to boost blooming, diluting the fertilizer by mixing 1 tablespoon of it in 1 gallon of water. Apply the fertilizer solution once each month during the growing season for the best results, using it instead of a regular watering.
Pinching Back for Bushiness
If you plant young mum plants in the garden in spring or grow mums from the previous season, then pinch off the tips on their new stems when they are about 6 inches long, using your fingertips or shears that you wipe with rubbing alcohol after each cut to prevent the spread of plant diseases. When new side shoots -- laterals -- sprout at each trimmed tip, also pinch them back when they're 6 to 8 inches long. Continue trimming back new shoots as they appear until midsummer. Then let the plants grow without further cutting. This approach produces compact but bushy mums with masses of flower buds.
Avoiding Problems
Mums are usually trouble-free and simple to grow, but they may develop a fungal disease if grown in overly wet conditions. You could see white powder from powdery mildew on their leaves, or gray mold could cause grayish deposits on the leaves and stems. Keeping plants well-spaced for good air circulation and watering each plant at its base helps avoid these fungal problems. If you see signs of fungus, though, it's best to remove the affected parts of the plants, cutting into healthy tissue behind the damaged parts. Discard all plant debris on a regular basis because it can harbor fungus. If a fungal problem is severe, remove mulch from under the plants to help the plants dry quickly after rain or watering.
Mums are usually pest-free, but small, mahogany-tinted insects called chrysanthemum aphids might become a problem, sucking plant juices and slowing plant growth. A chrysanthemum aphid nymph is 2/100 to 4/100 inch long; an adult without wings is 6/100 inch long, and an adult with wings can grow almost 1/10 inch long. If you see these pests on a mum, spray the plant with insecticidal soap, diluted at a rate of 5 tablespoons of insecticidal soap concentrate per 1 gallon of water, and repeat the treatment every two weeks as needed.
0
0
文章
Miss Chen
2018年08月07日
Coneflowers, or Echinacea purpurea, are perennial flowering plants named for their mounded, cone-shaped flowers. Native to the United States, coneflower varieties typically grow throughout the central and eastern regions of the U.S. Favored for their garden versatility, coneflower cultivars offer blooms in shades of white, pink, purple or yellow. Established coneflowers spread through seeds and clumping.
Versatility
Coneflowers open on tall stems surrounded by rag-leaf foliage. Part of the aster family, these flowers mature up to 4 ft. tall. They tolerate full sun, and thrive in cutting flower gardens with daisies, coreopsis, yarrow and other perennial flowers. Due to their deep tap root, coneflowers adapt to low water or xeriscape gardens. Scatter their seeds with wildflower blends for an easy-care border or fence garden. Coneflowers form a spreading clump that fits well into ornamental grasses in background plantings with shorter perennials, annuals or bedding plants in the foreground. As coneflowers mature and spread, they fill gaps where other flowers die back.
Seeds
Coneflowers spread by seeding. Flowers open in summer and bloom through autumn. The center cone, looking like a small hedgehog, matures and dries with seeds in the cone pods. In autumn, the small dry seeds naturally spill out on the ground, are scattered by wind or fall out as the plant dies back. Birds such as finches eat the seeds and scatter them in bird droppings. The seeds grow quickly in loose soil but also will root in poor soil or cracks in clay soil. The seeds winter over and germinate in spring.
Clumps
Coneflowers grow in clumps, growing outward from the central foliage mound and tap root. Coneflowers spread in clumps up to 2 ft. in diameter. This plant mass looks like one plant and must be divided every three to four years. If the clumping plants are not divided, the overcrowded roots do not reach the soil for enough nutrition and the plant declines. Divide the spreading coneflowers in spring or fall, digging up the clumps and cutting or hand-separating them into smaller clumps. Replant for new coneflowers, allowing room for the new plants to spread.
Considerations
Sometimes coneflowers spread too easily. They scatter hundreds of seeds that take root in rich soil, invading other flower space. Deadhead the flowers and discard the heads to reduce self-sowing. Deadheading also encourages longer blooming seasons. The spreading, shaggy clumps look unkempt in some gardens. Add shorter flowers in front of the coneflowers or plant coneflowers among evergreens like rosemary and lavender plants. The perennial herbs blend with the coneflower clumps, minimizing their untidy look.
Versatility
Coneflowers open on tall stems surrounded by rag-leaf foliage. Part of the aster family, these flowers mature up to 4 ft. tall. They tolerate full sun, and thrive in cutting flower gardens with daisies, coreopsis, yarrow and other perennial flowers. Due to their deep tap root, coneflowers adapt to low water or xeriscape gardens. Scatter their seeds with wildflower blends for an easy-care border or fence garden. Coneflowers form a spreading clump that fits well into ornamental grasses in background plantings with shorter perennials, annuals or bedding plants in the foreground. As coneflowers mature and spread, they fill gaps where other flowers die back.
Seeds
Coneflowers spread by seeding. Flowers open in summer and bloom through autumn. The center cone, looking like a small hedgehog, matures and dries with seeds in the cone pods. In autumn, the small dry seeds naturally spill out on the ground, are scattered by wind or fall out as the plant dies back. Birds such as finches eat the seeds and scatter them in bird droppings. The seeds grow quickly in loose soil but also will root in poor soil or cracks in clay soil. The seeds winter over and germinate in spring.
Clumps
Coneflowers grow in clumps, growing outward from the central foliage mound and tap root. Coneflowers spread in clumps up to 2 ft. in diameter. This plant mass looks like one plant and must be divided every three to four years. If the clumping plants are not divided, the overcrowded roots do not reach the soil for enough nutrition and the plant declines. Divide the spreading coneflowers in spring or fall, digging up the clumps and cutting or hand-separating them into smaller clumps. Replant for new coneflowers, allowing room for the new plants to spread.
Considerations
Sometimes coneflowers spread too easily. They scatter hundreds of seeds that take root in rich soil, invading other flower space. Deadhead the flowers and discard the heads to reduce self-sowing. Deadheading also encourages longer blooming seasons. The spreading, shaggy clumps look unkempt in some gardens. Add shorter flowers in front of the coneflowers or plant coneflowers among evergreens like rosemary and lavender plants. The perennial herbs blend with the coneflower clumps, minimizing their untidy look.
0
0
文章
Miss Chen
2018年08月06日
Description: This perennial herbaceous plant consists of a pair of leaves that are nearly basal and a single raceme of flowers. The leaf blades are 5-10" long, 3-5" across, and more or less erect; they are oval-ovate in shape and smooth (entire) along their margins. Both the lower and upper leaf surfaces are medium to dark green, glabrous, and sometimes slightly glaucous. Leaf venation is parallel. The leaves taper into petioles about 1½–3" long that wrap around a short basal stalk that is partially underground. Between the leaves, there develops a raceme of flowers about 4-9" long. This raceme is shorter than the leaves and it tends to nod toward its apex; there are 6-16 flowers per raceme. The central stalk of the raceme is medium green, terete, somewhat slender, and glabrous. The nodding flowers usually occur along one side of the raceme from pedicels that are up to ½" long; these pedicels are light green, terete, and glabrous. At the bases of these pedicels, there are solitary floral bracts. These floral bracts are up to 8 mm. (1/3") long, light green to nearly white, and narrowly lanceolate to ovate in shape; they are shorter than the corresponding pedicels.
The white corollas of these flowers are about 8 mm. (1/3") long and similarly across; they are campanulate (bell-shaped) with 6 short lobes that curve outward. Within the corolla of each flower, there are 6 stamens with short filaments and a single style with a tripartite stigma. The ovary of each flower has 3 cells. The blooming period occurs from late spring to early summer, lasting about 3 weeks. The flowers are quite fragrant. When the flowers are successfully cross-pollinated from the pollen of genetically distinct plants, they develop red berries that are 6-8 mm. across and globoid in shape (one berry per fertile flower). The interior of each berry is juicy, containing 1-6 seeds. These seeds are 3-4 mm. long and light brown with darker scar tissue at their bases; they are more or less ovoid in shape, but also rather irregular and chunky. In North America, most flowering plants fail to produce berries. The root system is fibrous and rhizomatous. Dense colonies of clonal plants are produced from the dense network of rhizomes; these colonies tend to exclude other species of plants.
Cultivation: The preference is dappled sunlight to medium shade, moist to mesic conditions, and a rich loamy soil with abundant organic material. Once it becomes established, this plant is long-lived, and it will spread slowly via its rhizomes. The leaves remain green throughout the summer until frost occurs during the autumn. Propagation of new plants is easiest by division of the rhizomes. If you want Lily-of-the-Valley to produce the attractive red berries, then you will need to plant genetically distinct plants in proximity to each other from two or more sources.
Range & Habitat: Lily-of-the-Valley has escaped from cultivation primarily in NE Illinois (see Distribution Map), where it is uncommon in natural areas. This species was introduced into the United States from Europe as an ornamental plant; it is often grown in gardens because of the attractive foliage and flowers. In addition to the typical European variety that is described here (Convallaria majalis majalis), there is also a North American variety of Lily-of-the-Valley (Convallaria majalis montana) that is native to the region of the Appalachian mountains. However, this North American variety is cultivated much less often than the European variety of Lily-of-the-Valley, and it has not naturalized in Illinois to anyone's knowledge. In Illinois, the European variety of Lily-of-the-Valley has naturalized in such habitats as tamarack bogs, rich deciduous woodlands, pioneer cemetery prairies, oak savannas near pioneer cemetery prairies, and abandoned homestead sites. At some of these habitats, Lily-of-the-Valley was deliberately introduced, where it has persisted for several decades, notwithstanding long neglect.
Faunal Associations: Bumblebees and honeybees collect pollen from the flowers of Lily-of-the-Valley; nectar may not be produced (Vandepitte, 2010; Müller 1873/1883). Among bumblebee species, Bombus vagans and Bombus pensylvanicus have been observed to visit the flowers (Mathews, 1912). Insects that feed on the foliage and other parts of this plant are limited in number. An insect that was accidentally introduced into North America from Europe, Lilioceris lilii (Lily Leaf Beetle), feeds on the leaves, while an aphid, Macrosiphum pechumani, sucks sap from this plant (Clark et al., 2004; Blackman & Eastop, 2013). The red berries probably attract birds and possibly some rodents, although because these berries are rarely produced in North America, it is unknown which species would consume them. According to Eriksson (1999), the seeds of these berries are eaten by voles and wood rats in Europe. Because all parts of Lily-of-the-Valley contain cardiac glycosides that are toxic, it is largely ignored by mammalian herbivores. Overall, the ecological value of this plant appears to be low.
Photographic Location: A wooded area at Meadowbrook Park in Urbana, Illinois, and a flower garden in the same city.
Comments: In addition to its cultivation in gardens, Lily-of-the-Valley has economic significance in the perfume and pharmaceutical industries. For the latter, it has been used as a source of heart medication. There are two varieties of Lily-of-the-Valley: the typical European variety (Convallaria majalis majalis) and the North American variety (Convallaria majalis montana). This latter variety can be distinguished by its larger floral bracts (at least 10 mm. in length) and the fine green lines along the midribs of its tepals (the tepals have been joined together to form a bell-shaped corolla for each flower). As compared to the European variety, the North American variety also appears to be less aggressive in forming large dense colonies of clonal plants.
The white corollas of these flowers are about 8 mm. (1/3") long and similarly across; they are campanulate (bell-shaped) with 6 short lobes that curve outward. Within the corolla of each flower, there are 6 stamens with short filaments and a single style with a tripartite stigma. The ovary of each flower has 3 cells. The blooming period occurs from late spring to early summer, lasting about 3 weeks. The flowers are quite fragrant. When the flowers are successfully cross-pollinated from the pollen of genetically distinct plants, they develop red berries that are 6-8 mm. across and globoid in shape (one berry per fertile flower). The interior of each berry is juicy, containing 1-6 seeds. These seeds are 3-4 mm. long and light brown with darker scar tissue at their bases; they are more or less ovoid in shape, but also rather irregular and chunky. In North America, most flowering plants fail to produce berries. The root system is fibrous and rhizomatous. Dense colonies of clonal plants are produced from the dense network of rhizomes; these colonies tend to exclude other species of plants.
Cultivation: The preference is dappled sunlight to medium shade, moist to mesic conditions, and a rich loamy soil with abundant organic material. Once it becomes established, this plant is long-lived, and it will spread slowly via its rhizomes. The leaves remain green throughout the summer until frost occurs during the autumn. Propagation of new plants is easiest by division of the rhizomes. If you want Lily-of-the-Valley to produce the attractive red berries, then you will need to plant genetically distinct plants in proximity to each other from two or more sources.
Range & Habitat: Lily-of-the-Valley has escaped from cultivation primarily in NE Illinois (see Distribution Map), where it is uncommon in natural areas. This species was introduced into the United States from Europe as an ornamental plant; it is often grown in gardens because of the attractive foliage and flowers. In addition to the typical European variety that is described here (Convallaria majalis majalis), there is also a North American variety of Lily-of-the-Valley (Convallaria majalis montana) that is native to the region of the Appalachian mountains. However, this North American variety is cultivated much less often than the European variety of Lily-of-the-Valley, and it has not naturalized in Illinois to anyone's knowledge. In Illinois, the European variety of Lily-of-the-Valley has naturalized in such habitats as tamarack bogs, rich deciduous woodlands, pioneer cemetery prairies, oak savannas near pioneer cemetery prairies, and abandoned homestead sites. At some of these habitats, Lily-of-the-Valley was deliberately introduced, where it has persisted for several decades, notwithstanding long neglect.
Faunal Associations: Bumblebees and honeybees collect pollen from the flowers of Lily-of-the-Valley; nectar may not be produced (Vandepitte, 2010; Müller 1873/1883). Among bumblebee species, Bombus vagans and Bombus pensylvanicus have been observed to visit the flowers (Mathews, 1912). Insects that feed on the foliage and other parts of this plant are limited in number. An insect that was accidentally introduced into North America from Europe, Lilioceris lilii (Lily Leaf Beetle), feeds on the leaves, while an aphid, Macrosiphum pechumani, sucks sap from this plant (Clark et al., 2004; Blackman & Eastop, 2013). The red berries probably attract birds and possibly some rodents, although because these berries are rarely produced in North America, it is unknown which species would consume them. According to Eriksson (1999), the seeds of these berries are eaten by voles and wood rats in Europe. Because all parts of Lily-of-the-Valley contain cardiac glycosides that are toxic, it is largely ignored by mammalian herbivores. Overall, the ecological value of this plant appears to be low.
Photographic Location: A wooded area at Meadowbrook Park in Urbana, Illinois, and a flower garden in the same city.
Comments: In addition to its cultivation in gardens, Lily-of-the-Valley has economic significance in the perfume and pharmaceutical industries. For the latter, it has been used as a source of heart medication. There are two varieties of Lily-of-the-Valley: the typical European variety (Convallaria majalis majalis) and the North American variety (Convallaria majalis montana). This latter variety can be distinguished by its larger floral bracts (at least 10 mm. in length) and the fine green lines along the midribs of its tepals (the tepals have been joined together to form a bell-shaped corolla for each flower). As compared to the European variety, the North American variety also appears to be less aggressive in forming large dense colonies of clonal plants.
0
0
文章
Miss Chen
2018年08月05日
The energetic and showy goat's beard perennial (Aruncus dioicus) can fill in a sunny or partially sunny growing location with vibrant foliage and white, fuzzy blossoms. This dense flowering plant may reach heights of up to 6 feet with showy white flowers sitting among the leaves during midsummer. Give this flowering plant basic care, including pruning goat's beard perennial at the proper time, to keep the plant healthy and attractive.
Step 1
Trim the white blossoms after the goat's beard finishes blossoming in the middle of the summer. Use the pruning shears to trim the stems off at the base of the plant. Deadheading the goat's beard keeps the plant neat and may stimulate a second bloom before the end of the growing season.
Step 2
Place the stems into the bucket for disposal. Do not leave the trimmed foliage on the soil around the plant because it may create an unhealthy growing environment for the plant.
Step 3
Cut back the dead growth in the spring before the plant begins growing again. Use the pruning shears to cut the dead growth off just above the soil level. The plant will respond by producing fresh new shoots for the current growing season.
Step 4
Discard the dead growth in a compost bin or the trash.
Step 1
Trim the white blossoms after the goat's beard finishes blossoming in the middle of the summer. Use the pruning shears to trim the stems off at the base of the plant. Deadheading the goat's beard keeps the plant neat and may stimulate a second bloom before the end of the growing season.
Step 2
Place the stems into the bucket for disposal. Do not leave the trimmed foliage on the soil around the plant because it may create an unhealthy growing environment for the plant.
Step 3
Cut back the dead growth in the spring before the plant begins growing again. Use the pruning shears to cut the dead growth off just above the soil level. The plant will respond by producing fresh new shoots for the current growing season.
Step 4
Discard the dead growth in a compost bin or the trash.
0
0
文章
Miss Chen
2018年08月03日
Description: This plant is an obligatory biennial that forms a rosette of leaves during the first year, and bolts upward during the second year to produce flowers. It forms occasional side stems, but remains erect in stature, reaching 3-6' in height. The stout stems are light green, somewhat angular, and covered with dense white hairs. The alternate leaves are up to 7" long and 2" across. In outline, they are lanceolate in shape, but deeply pinnatifid. The widely spaced lobes narrow into points that are individually armed with a pale yellow spine. Some of the upper leaves near the flowerheads may be lanceolate or linear, but remain unlobed. Across the surface of the leaves, there are short white hairs and scattered small spines. The upper surface is dark green, while the lower surface is light green. At the base of each leaf, there are a pair of narrow wings that are dark green and decurrent against the stem. These wings are extensions of the leaves and arm the stems with spines up to ¼" long.
The upper stems terminate in flowerheads of purplish pink to purple flowers. Each flowerhead is 1½–2" across and contains numerous disk florets, but no ray florets. Each disk floret is long and tubular, but becomes divided into 5 long thread-like lobes. This provides the flowerhead with a showy hair-like appearance. At the base of each flowerhead, are numerous green bracts that taper into stiff points that curl outward and are quite prickly. Among these bracts are cobwebby hairs in the background. The blooming period occurs from mid- to late summer and lasts about 3-4 weeks, after which the florets wither away. They are replaced by achenes with large tufts of white hair. These achenes are long, slender, and slightly ribbed. TheyDistribution Map are dispersed by the wind. The root system consists of a stout taproot that runs deep into the ground. This plants spreads by reseeding itself and occasionally forms colonies.
Cultivation: This thistle usually grows in full sun under moist to dry conditions. It prefers a fertile soil that consists of loam, clay loam, or that is slightly stony. Occasionally the foliage is affected by mildew during the summer or fall. Individual plants can produce a great abundance of seed, which have a high germination and survival rate. Thus, this plant can be quite aggressive. Because the seeds remain viable for only 1-2 years, one control strategy consists of destroying individual plants before they reach the flowering stage. It is possible for a plant to reestablish itself if a portion of the taproot remains in the ground.
Range & Habitat: The Bull Thistle is a common plant that occurs in most counties of Illinois. This thistle is adventive from Eurasia, and it has existed in the United States since the 19th century, if not earlier. Habitats include pastures, abandoned fields, fence rows, areas along roadsides and railroads, cut-over woods, and miscellaneous waste areas. This species prefers disturbed areas and it is not common in high quality natural areas.
Faunal Associations: The nectar and pollen of the flowers attract many kinds of long-tongued bees, including bumblebees, leaf-cutting bees (Megachile spp.), long-horned bees (Melissodes spp.), and cuckoo bees (Epeolus spp.). The flower nectar also attracts butterflies (especially swallowtails), skippers, and bee flies. Green metallic bees and other Halictid bees may collect pollen from the flowers, but they are non-pollinating. The caterpillars of the butterfly Vanessa cardui (Painted Lady) feed on the foliage. There are also many moth species with caterpillars that consume various parts of thistles (see Moth Table). The seeds are eaten by the American Goldfinch and the Clay-colored Sparrow. Goldfinches also use the tufts of hair as construction material for their little nests. Mammalian herbivores don't eat the Bull Thistle because it is heavily armed with spines. Even in overgrazed pastures where cattle and sheep have little to eat, the Bull Thistle is one of the few plants that is left alone.
Photographic Location: Along a fence row near the webmaster's apartment in Urbana, Illinois.
Comments: This is a very spiny thistle that can become quite tall. It is easily distinguished from many of the native thistles by the prickly bracts at the base of the flowerheads. These large bracts curl outward and narrow into sharp points, while the bracts of native thistles are appressed together and resemble green fish scales (fine spines are usually present on the outer bracts for some native species). The leaf undersides of the Bull Thistle are light green or whitish green, while the leaf undersides for some native thistles, such as Cirsium discolor (Pasture Thistle) and Cirsium altissimum (Tall Thistle), are powdery white in appearance. Other native thistles, however, don't have this latter characteristic. The Bull Thistle also has spines on its stems (from the decurrent extensions of the leaves), while the stems of native thistles are spineless.
The upper stems terminate in flowerheads of purplish pink to purple flowers. Each flowerhead is 1½–2" across and contains numerous disk florets, but no ray florets. Each disk floret is long and tubular, but becomes divided into 5 long thread-like lobes. This provides the flowerhead with a showy hair-like appearance. At the base of each flowerhead, are numerous green bracts that taper into stiff points that curl outward and are quite prickly. Among these bracts are cobwebby hairs in the background. The blooming period occurs from mid- to late summer and lasts about 3-4 weeks, after which the florets wither away. They are replaced by achenes with large tufts of white hair. These achenes are long, slender, and slightly ribbed. TheyDistribution Map are dispersed by the wind. The root system consists of a stout taproot that runs deep into the ground. This plants spreads by reseeding itself and occasionally forms colonies.
Cultivation: This thistle usually grows in full sun under moist to dry conditions. It prefers a fertile soil that consists of loam, clay loam, or that is slightly stony. Occasionally the foliage is affected by mildew during the summer or fall. Individual plants can produce a great abundance of seed, which have a high germination and survival rate. Thus, this plant can be quite aggressive. Because the seeds remain viable for only 1-2 years, one control strategy consists of destroying individual plants before they reach the flowering stage. It is possible for a plant to reestablish itself if a portion of the taproot remains in the ground.
Range & Habitat: The Bull Thistle is a common plant that occurs in most counties of Illinois. This thistle is adventive from Eurasia, and it has existed in the United States since the 19th century, if not earlier. Habitats include pastures, abandoned fields, fence rows, areas along roadsides and railroads, cut-over woods, and miscellaneous waste areas. This species prefers disturbed areas and it is not common in high quality natural areas.
Faunal Associations: The nectar and pollen of the flowers attract many kinds of long-tongued bees, including bumblebees, leaf-cutting bees (Megachile spp.), long-horned bees (Melissodes spp.), and cuckoo bees (Epeolus spp.). The flower nectar also attracts butterflies (especially swallowtails), skippers, and bee flies. Green metallic bees and other Halictid bees may collect pollen from the flowers, but they are non-pollinating. The caterpillars of the butterfly Vanessa cardui (Painted Lady) feed on the foliage. There are also many moth species with caterpillars that consume various parts of thistles (see Moth Table). The seeds are eaten by the American Goldfinch and the Clay-colored Sparrow. Goldfinches also use the tufts of hair as construction material for their little nests. Mammalian herbivores don't eat the Bull Thistle because it is heavily armed with spines. Even in overgrazed pastures where cattle and sheep have little to eat, the Bull Thistle is one of the few plants that is left alone.
Photographic Location: Along a fence row near the webmaster's apartment in Urbana, Illinois.
Comments: This is a very spiny thistle that can become quite tall. It is easily distinguished from many of the native thistles by the prickly bracts at the base of the flowerheads. These large bracts curl outward and narrow into sharp points, while the bracts of native thistles are appressed together and resemble green fish scales (fine spines are usually present on the outer bracts for some native species). The leaf undersides of the Bull Thistle are light green or whitish green, while the leaf undersides for some native thistles, such as Cirsium discolor (Pasture Thistle) and Cirsium altissimum (Tall Thistle), are powdery white in appearance. Other native thistles, however, don't have this latter characteristic. The Bull Thistle also has spines on its stems (from the decurrent extensions of the leaves), while the stems of native thistles are spineless.
0
0
文章
Miss Chen
2018年08月02日
Anthurium is a genus of tropical flowers native to the West Indies, Mexico and South America. They are commonly grown in warm climates such as Hawaii and southern Florida, as well as indoors and in greenhouses. They are noted for their large, colorful flowers and long spathes and are often used in bouquets and floral arrangements. Anthuriums can be propagated from seed and through division or cuttings. Division is the fastest method to propagate anthuriums and can be done by the average home gardener.
Step 1
Examine the plant and look for offshoots that emerge from the ground near the main stem. The shoots grow from the roots of the main plant. In one year, up to 15 can appear from a healthy anthurium.
Step 2
Dig up healthy-looking offshoots. Using sharp garden clippers, cut the roots about 4 to 5 inches deep to remove the offshoots from the mother plant. These aerial roots are necessary for successful propagation.
Step 3
Replant the divided shoots in 4- to 6-inch pots that are filled with rich, organic potting soil. Keep the soil moist and place the pots in a humid location with partial sun.
Step 1
Examine the plant and look for offshoots that emerge from the ground near the main stem. The shoots grow from the roots of the main plant. In one year, up to 15 can appear from a healthy anthurium.
Step 2
Dig up healthy-looking offshoots. Using sharp garden clippers, cut the roots about 4 to 5 inches deep to remove the offshoots from the mother plant. These aerial roots are necessary for successful propagation.
Step 3
Replant the divided shoots in 4- to 6-inch pots that are filled with rich, organic potting soil. Keep the soil moist and place the pots in a humid location with partial sun.
0
0
文章
Miss Chen
2018年08月02日
Lamb's ear, known scientifically as Stachys byzantina, is a fuzzy plant with grayish-green leaves. It produces flowers in the spring and summer ranging in color from white to pink. In the early spring and late fall, lamb's ear creates a silvery coating on the ground that some find unappealing. Lamb's ear has a tendency to be invasive and often develops brown leaves near its base. You can remove unwanted or brown growth by pruning your lamb's ear plant in less than 10 minutes.
Step 1
Rinse your scissors or garden clippers to remove dirt and debris with warm water. Wipe the blades dry before sanitizing them with rubbing alcohol. Even though lamb's ear is a hardy plant, you should take these precautions to lessen the chance of infection from pruning.
Step 2
Cut dead or browning leaves from the entirety of the lamb's ear plant, allowing only healthy foliage to remain. Make the cuts about 1/4 inch away from the body of the plant, ensuring you do not damage any other leaves in the process. The cut should be as small and clean as possible to lessen the time your lamb's ear must devote to healing. Discard the pruned leaves.
Step 3
Remove areas of the lamb's ear you find unappealing or sections of the plant that have spread beyond their boundaries. It will continue to grow back, requiring regular pruning, but this lessens the overwhelming effect lamb's ear can have on your garden. Cut the unwanted growth as close to the ground or main plant as possible for maximum impact.
Step 1
Rinse your scissors or garden clippers to remove dirt and debris with warm water. Wipe the blades dry before sanitizing them with rubbing alcohol. Even though lamb's ear is a hardy plant, you should take these precautions to lessen the chance of infection from pruning.
Step 2
Cut dead or browning leaves from the entirety of the lamb's ear plant, allowing only healthy foliage to remain. Make the cuts about 1/4 inch away from the body of the plant, ensuring you do not damage any other leaves in the process. The cut should be as small and clean as possible to lessen the time your lamb's ear must devote to healing. Discard the pruned leaves.
Step 3
Remove areas of the lamb's ear you find unappealing or sections of the plant that have spread beyond their boundaries. It will continue to grow back, requiring regular pruning, but this lessens the overwhelming effect lamb's ear can have on your garden. Cut the unwanted growth as close to the ground or main plant as possible for maximum impact.
0
0
文章
Miss Chen
2018年07月30日
Description: This plant is an annual about 3-8" tall that branches occasionally, and it is more or less erect. The stems, leaves, and calyx of the flowers are greyish green and hairless. The slender stems are irregularly angular. The opposite leaves are up to 1" long and ¾" across, becoming smaller as they ascend the stems. They are variably shaped, smooth along the margins, and sessile or slightly clasping the stems. The lower leaves are ovoid or ovate with blunt tips, while the upper leaves are often lanceolate or oblong. Their texture is slightly fleshy and succulent. There is no tuft of basal leaves at the base of the plant. The upper stems terminate in small cymes or flat-headed panicles of flowers; some cymes of flowers may be produced from the axils of the upper leaves as well. Each flower has a narrow tubular corolla that is about ½" long; at its apex, this corolla divides into 5 spreading lobes up to ¼" across. These petal-like lobes are narrow and pink. At the base of the flower, there is a tubular calyx with 5 lobes that are very narrow and long. These calyx lobes are appressed against the base of the tubular corolla and at least half its length (sometimes they are nearly as long as the corolla). At the narrow throat of the flower, there are several exserted stamens with yellow anthers. Each flower has a short pedicel at least 1/8" long. The blooming period occurs during the summer and early fall and lasts about 2-3 months. As older flowers begin to fade away, the area that is enclosed by the lobes of their calyxes begins to swell until ovoid seed capsules are formed. Each seed capsule is open at the top and has 5 recurved teeth along its upper rim. Each of these capsules contains several tiny seeds that can be blown about by the wind or float on water. The root system consists of shallow fibrous roots. This plant spreads by reseeding itself.
Cultivation: Typical growing conditions are full sun and a moist soil that contains loam, clay-loam, or gravelly material. A limy soil and occasional flooding are tolerated.
Range & Habitat: Branching Centaury is an uncommon plant that is originally from Europe. It occurs primarily in a few counties in NE Illinois and does not appear to be spreading (see Distribution Map). The webmaster recently found a small colony of plants growing in Champaign County, Illinois. Habitats include moist depressions in grassy areas along roads and railroads. So far, this species is restricted to highly disturbed habitats.
Faunal Associations: Little information about floral-faunal relationships is available for this species. The structure of the flowers suggests that long-tongued bees, small butterflies, and skippers occasionally pollinate the flowers. One likely candidate is the butterfly Pieris rapae (Cabbage White), which is originally from Europe. The foliage of plants in the Gentian family is usually bitter and unattractive to most herbivores, although rabbits may nibble on the stems and leaves of Branching Centaury occasionally. The seeds are too small to be of much interest to birds.
Photographic Location: A moist grassy depression that was located a short distance away from a railroad in Urbana, Illinois. This area was mowed irregularly and prone to temporary flooding.
Comments: Branching Centaury is a small plant with delicate pink flowers. It has many characteristics in common with members of the Pink family (Caryophyllaceae), but it differs in having a calyx with long slender lobes that are at least half the length of the tubular corolla. According to official records, this is the only Centaurium sp. that has naturalized in Illinois. Some south-central and southwestern states have native Centaurium spp., but none of them have been observed in Illinois. These native species tend to have somewhat larger flowers and more narrow lower leaves. A closely related species from Europe, the biennial Centaurium erythraea (Forking Centaury), has been observed in Indiana and may occur somewhere in Illinois. The inflorescence of this latter species is less flat-headed and more vertical, while its flowers have shorter calyx lobes and slightly longer corolla lobes. The Centaurium spp. differ from the closely related Sabatia spp. (Rose Pinks) by having smaller flowers that are longer than they are across; they are always narrowly tubular at the base. The flowers of Rose Pinks have more open corollas with larger petal-like lobes, while the lobes of their calyxes are more spreading.
Cultivation: Typical growing conditions are full sun and a moist soil that contains loam, clay-loam, or gravelly material. A limy soil and occasional flooding are tolerated.
Range & Habitat: Branching Centaury is an uncommon plant that is originally from Europe. It occurs primarily in a few counties in NE Illinois and does not appear to be spreading (see Distribution Map). The webmaster recently found a small colony of plants growing in Champaign County, Illinois. Habitats include moist depressions in grassy areas along roads and railroads. So far, this species is restricted to highly disturbed habitats.
Faunal Associations: Little information about floral-faunal relationships is available for this species. The structure of the flowers suggests that long-tongued bees, small butterflies, and skippers occasionally pollinate the flowers. One likely candidate is the butterfly Pieris rapae (Cabbage White), which is originally from Europe. The foliage of plants in the Gentian family is usually bitter and unattractive to most herbivores, although rabbits may nibble on the stems and leaves of Branching Centaury occasionally. The seeds are too small to be of much interest to birds.
Photographic Location: A moist grassy depression that was located a short distance away from a railroad in Urbana, Illinois. This area was mowed irregularly and prone to temporary flooding.
Comments: Branching Centaury is a small plant with delicate pink flowers. It has many characteristics in common with members of the Pink family (Caryophyllaceae), but it differs in having a calyx with long slender lobes that are at least half the length of the tubular corolla. According to official records, this is the only Centaurium sp. that has naturalized in Illinois. Some south-central and southwestern states have native Centaurium spp., but none of them have been observed in Illinois. These native species tend to have somewhat larger flowers and more narrow lower leaves. A closely related species from Europe, the biennial Centaurium erythraea (Forking Centaury), has been observed in Indiana and may occur somewhere in Illinois. The inflorescence of this latter species is less flat-headed and more vertical, while its flowers have shorter calyx lobes and slightly longer corolla lobes. The Centaurium spp. differ from the closely related Sabatia spp. (Rose Pinks) by having smaller flowers that are longer than they are across; they are always narrowly tubular at the base. The flowers of Rose Pinks have more open corollas with larger petal-like lobes, while the lobes of their calyxes are more spreading.
0
0
文章
Miss Chen
2018年07月29日
If you enjoy growing tropical plants with colorful flowers, the plumeria plant (Plumeris spp.) could be an excellent choice for your garden or as a small indoor tree. Also called the frangipani or temple tree, the plant grows outdoors year-round in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 9 through 11. You can help keep a plumeria tree in good shape and promote plenty of flowers by pruning it regularly.
The Best Method
A plumeria tree is naturally short and stocky, developing a broad crown and reaching 12 feet or more when it's 6 years old, although this can vary with the variety. Some species, such as West Indian Jasmine (Plumeria alba), which grows in USDA zones 10 through 12, can grow 40 feet tall a if left unpruned. When cutting back a plumeria, use a sharp knife or pruning shears. For a tall plumeria, you might need a pruning saw mounted on a tall pole. Always make cuts at an angle so water won't collect in the cut end of the branch and encourage fungal disease. It's also important to prevent spread of diseases by disinfecting your pruning blades after each cut, wiping them well with rubbing alcohol or dipping them in a container of rubbing alcohol.
Timing
You can prune a plumeria tree at any time, but pruning an actively growing tree can leave unsightly branch stubs until new growth starts. The plant slows its growth in winter, dropping its leaves and looking bare until new ones appear in spring. During this dormant season, it's easy to see the tree's basic form, making pruning decisions easier. To allow the tree to set blossoms for the following season, prune lightly so that enough young growth remains to produce new flowers in spring. To keep the tree within bounds, you can repeat light winter pruning every year or two until the tree reaches a suitable size for its location.
The Overall Plan
If your plumeria is just few years old, you can help control its size in future years by heading it back every year or two, cutting healthy branches back by about one-third. This also encourages lots of new branches that help fill in the tree's shape as it grows and eventually produce flower buds. An older tree that's outgrown its space may respond well to a method called pollarding, which involves removing the upper branches from a mature tree to promote a dense canopy of foliage. This method reduces the tree's size and can keep a mature tree at a predetermined height. Regardless of the tree's age, how often you prune depends somewhat on the tree's response. If there's abundant new growth the following year, you can prune yearly, but if growth appears slowly, it's a good idea to skip a year or two between prunings.
After Pruning
You can help stimulate a newly pruned plumeria to put out healthy growth by fertilizing it regularly during its growing season. Use a granular, 10-30-10 formula, applied at the rate of 1 pound per 1 inch of trunk diameter. Spread the fertilizer under the tree evenly, scratching it into the soil and distributing it to about 2 feet beyond its drip line, which is the outermost area where foliage extends over the ground. Providing adequate water also supports new growth, especially during summer dry spells -- supply enough water to keep the soil moist but not soggy, generally about 1/2 to 1 inch weekly.
The Best Method
A plumeria tree is naturally short and stocky, developing a broad crown and reaching 12 feet or more when it's 6 years old, although this can vary with the variety. Some species, such as West Indian Jasmine (Plumeria alba), which grows in USDA zones 10 through 12, can grow 40 feet tall a if left unpruned. When cutting back a plumeria, use a sharp knife or pruning shears. For a tall plumeria, you might need a pruning saw mounted on a tall pole. Always make cuts at an angle so water won't collect in the cut end of the branch and encourage fungal disease. It's also important to prevent spread of diseases by disinfecting your pruning blades after each cut, wiping them well with rubbing alcohol or dipping them in a container of rubbing alcohol.
Timing
You can prune a plumeria tree at any time, but pruning an actively growing tree can leave unsightly branch stubs until new growth starts. The plant slows its growth in winter, dropping its leaves and looking bare until new ones appear in spring. During this dormant season, it's easy to see the tree's basic form, making pruning decisions easier. To allow the tree to set blossoms for the following season, prune lightly so that enough young growth remains to produce new flowers in spring. To keep the tree within bounds, you can repeat light winter pruning every year or two until the tree reaches a suitable size for its location.
The Overall Plan
If your plumeria is just few years old, you can help control its size in future years by heading it back every year or two, cutting healthy branches back by about one-third. This also encourages lots of new branches that help fill in the tree's shape as it grows and eventually produce flower buds. An older tree that's outgrown its space may respond well to a method called pollarding, which involves removing the upper branches from a mature tree to promote a dense canopy of foliage. This method reduces the tree's size and can keep a mature tree at a predetermined height. Regardless of the tree's age, how often you prune depends somewhat on the tree's response. If there's abundant new growth the following year, you can prune yearly, but if growth appears slowly, it's a good idea to skip a year or two between prunings.
After Pruning
You can help stimulate a newly pruned plumeria to put out healthy growth by fertilizing it regularly during its growing season. Use a granular, 10-30-10 formula, applied at the rate of 1 pound per 1 inch of trunk diameter. Spread the fertilizer under the tree evenly, scratching it into the soil and distributing it to about 2 feet beyond its drip line, which is the outermost area where foliage extends over the ground. Providing adequate water also supports new growth, especially during summer dry spells -- supply enough water to keep the soil moist but not soggy, generally about 1/2 to 1 inch weekly.
0
0
