文章
Miss Chen
2018年09月07日
Coneflowers (Echinacea spp.) are colorful perennials that attract birds and butterflies to your yard or garden. Coneflowers grow in shades of pink, purple, orange, yellow and white. These daisy-like flowers have a puffy central head that protrudes upward as the petals fold back. Coneflowers are native throughout eastern and central North America, growing in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 3 through 9. Caring for hybrid coneflowers with regular deadheading, shearing once each season and dividing as needed will reward you with blooms for years to come.
When to Fertilize
Fertilize coneflowers in the spring as new growth appears with a fertilizer low in nitrogen like a 5-10-5 blend. Spread a small handful evenly around the plant, being sure that the product doesn't touch the plant. Apply two more applications at six week intervals and always water the fertilizer into the ground after applying. Coneflowers do not require heavy feeding; a spring mulch of rich compost helps smother weeds and provides a slow release of nutrients into the soil. While native varieties are not particular about soil type, coneflowers respond to loamy or sandy soil that drains well.
Watering
Water coneflowers regularly during the first growing season to help establish healthy root systems. Mature coneflowers are drought resistant, preferring an open area in full sun, but consistent watering can improve blooming throughout a hot, dry summer.
Few Pest Problems
Check the plants regularly for signs of insect damage. Although coneflowers are pest-resistant, leaf miners and Japanese beetles sometimes attack the leaves and flowers, and vine weevils may attack the roots. Dust the plants with diatomaceous earth or spray with a ready-to-use insecticidal soap to control insects. Powdery mildew, bacterial leaf spots and gray mold may be problems, especially in humid areas. Treat with a ready-to-use copper-based fungicide following the manufacturer's directions. Cover the entire foliage with the fungicide. Overhead watering can be a cause of disease spread; drip-irrigation or a soaker hose helps control soil-borne and airborne diseases by reducing splashing. Remove diseased parts of the plant when you deadhead and dispose of them by burning or in a trash collection container. Keep diseased plant material out of the compost pile and away from healthy plants.
Care in the Growing Season
Deadhead the coneflowers during the spring and early summer to encourage new growth in middle to late summer. Cut off spent blooms with garden shears as the petals begin to brown, wiping the blades with alcohol wipes between cuts to prevent the spread of disease. Cut out any dead or browning leaves to encourage fresh greenery later in the season. Leave the last spent coneflowers to dry on the plants in the fall -- the seed heads provide food for migrating and over-wintering birds and will reseed into the garden.
Shear coneflowers back to about one-third of their growth during the early summer to encourage bushy growth later in the season. Shearing a plant means to cut and remove most of the greenery and all of the spent blooms and stems.
If you're deadheading and pruning a large number of plants, mix nine parts water with one part household liquid bleach in a bucket, and dip the pruners in the solution between cuts to disinfect the blades.
Divide and Transplant
Divide mature coneflower clumps in the spring before growth begins, or in early fall after blooming is finished. Lift the plant from the ground completely with a shovel or spading fork, being careful not to damage the roots. Set the plant on the ground with the crown facing up. Place the tip of a sharp shovel at the top of the soil and between the center leaves of the coneflower plant. Push down with the shovel to cut the plant in half. Replant one half back into the hole where it was removed, and transplant the other half in a new location. Water both new coneflower plants after dividing and transplanting. Alternatively, you may cut a large clump into several sections with a sharp shovel or a knife and transplant the sections. Sterilize the blade after each cut.
Plant coneflowers as a border along a walkway or as part of a perennial cutting garden and watch the birds enjoy the seed heads.
When to Fertilize
Fertilize coneflowers in the spring as new growth appears with a fertilizer low in nitrogen like a 5-10-5 blend. Spread a small handful evenly around the plant, being sure that the product doesn't touch the plant. Apply two more applications at six week intervals and always water the fertilizer into the ground after applying. Coneflowers do not require heavy feeding; a spring mulch of rich compost helps smother weeds and provides a slow release of nutrients into the soil. While native varieties are not particular about soil type, coneflowers respond to loamy or sandy soil that drains well.
Watering
Water coneflowers regularly during the first growing season to help establish healthy root systems. Mature coneflowers are drought resistant, preferring an open area in full sun, but consistent watering can improve blooming throughout a hot, dry summer.
Few Pest Problems
Check the plants regularly for signs of insect damage. Although coneflowers are pest-resistant, leaf miners and Japanese beetles sometimes attack the leaves and flowers, and vine weevils may attack the roots. Dust the plants with diatomaceous earth or spray with a ready-to-use insecticidal soap to control insects. Powdery mildew, bacterial leaf spots and gray mold may be problems, especially in humid areas. Treat with a ready-to-use copper-based fungicide following the manufacturer's directions. Cover the entire foliage with the fungicide. Overhead watering can be a cause of disease spread; drip-irrigation or a soaker hose helps control soil-borne and airborne diseases by reducing splashing. Remove diseased parts of the plant when you deadhead and dispose of them by burning or in a trash collection container. Keep diseased plant material out of the compost pile and away from healthy plants.
Care in the Growing Season
Deadhead the coneflowers during the spring and early summer to encourage new growth in middle to late summer. Cut off spent blooms with garden shears as the petals begin to brown, wiping the blades with alcohol wipes between cuts to prevent the spread of disease. Cut out any dead or browning leaves to encourage fresh greenery later in the season. Leave the last spent coneflowers to dry on the plants in the fall -- the seed heads provide food for migrating and over-wintering birds and will reseed into the garden.
Shear coneflowers back to about one-third of their growth during the early summer to encourage bushy growth later in the season. Shearing a plant means to cut and remove most of the greenery and all of the spent blooms and stems.
If you're deadheading and pruning a large number of plants, mix nine parts water with one part household liquid bleach in a bucket, and dip the pruners in the solution between cuts to disinfect the blades.
Divide and Transplant
Divide mature coneflower clumps in the spring before growth begins, or in early fall after blooming is finished. Lift the plant from the ground completely with a shovel or spading fork, being careful not to damage the roots. Set the plant on the ground with the crown facing up. Place the tip of a sharp shovel at the top of the soil and between the center leaves of the coneflower plant. Push down with the shovel to cut the plant in half. Replant one half back into the hole where it was removed, and transplant the other half in a new location. Water both new coneflower plants after dividing and transplanting. Alternatively, you may cut a large clump into several sections with a sharp shovel or a knife and transplant the sections. Sterilize the blade after each cut.
Plant coneflowers as a border along a walkway or as part of a perennial cutting garden and watch the birds enjoy the seed heads.
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文章
Miss Chen
2018年09月06日
With their 2- to 5-feet-tall spikes and their bell-shaped, 2- to 3-inch flowers that have spotted throats and range in color from yellow and white to pink or purple, common foxgloves (Digitalis purpurea) are easily identifiable in the garden. These European natives are deer- and rabbit-resistant and attract hummingbirds. Hardy in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 4 through 8, foxgloves prefer well-drained soil in a sunny to partially shady area of the garden. With proper care, they grow oblong, light-green foliage in their first year and bloom the next year.
Step 1
Water foxgloves immediately after planting them, thoroughly soaking the soil around the plants. Keep the soil somewhat wet initially, watering about three times during the first week. Provide 1 inch of water each week afterward, maintaining consistently moist, but not wet, soil and adjusting your watering frequency after rainfall. Water foxgloves in early morning, and avoid getting their leaves wet to prevent diseases.
Step 2
Dig a 1-inch-deep trench in a 3-inch diameter around each foxglove plant. Sprinkle one handful of 5-10-5 granular fertilizer in each trench. Fill the trenches with soil, and water the soil. Do this in early spring and again six and 12 weeks afterward. Alternatively, apply a 1- to 2-inch-thick layer of compost around the foxgloves each spring to provide nutrients.
Step 3
Spread a 2-inch-thick layer of organic mulch, such as shredded leaves or bark chips, on the soil around the foxgloves. Keep the mulch about 1 to 2 inches away from the plants. Mulch promotes soil moisture retention and keeps weeds at bay.
Step 4
Treat and prevent powdery mildew outbreaks by properly spacing plants to allow proper air circulation, water from below and not overhead, clean up leaf debris below foxgloves and prune off affected foliage. Spray severe infections with ready-to-use Neem oil or horticultural oil, saturating the plant's foliage and repeating weekly or as needed. Do not use oil-based products when temperatures are above 90 degrees Fahrenheit or the plant is stressed from drought.
Step 5
Remove slugs or snails from the foxglove's foliage in the early morning when the pests are most active. Wear gloves and pick the pest from the plant, placing them in a small bowl of soapy water. Prune off any foliage damaged by the snails or slugs.
Step 6
Pinch off the foxgloves' wilted or faded flowers. Doing so keeps the plants looking neat and prevents them from spending energy on making seeds. Alternatively, wait until two-thirds of the flowers have faded, and then use pruning shears to cut back each entire stalk at the point where its base meets the bottom leaves.
Step 1
Water foxgloves immediately after planting them, thoroughly soaking the soil around the plants. Keep the soil somewhat wet initially, watering about three times during the first week. Provide 1 inch of water each week afterward, maintaining consistently moist, but not wet, soil and adjusting your watering frequency after rainfall. Water foxgloves in early morning, and avoid getting their leaves wet to prevent diseases.
Step 2
Dig a 1-inch-deep trench in a 3-inch diameter around each foxglove plant. Sprinkle one handful of 5-10-5 granular fertilizer in each trench. Fill the trenches with soil, and water the soil. Do this in early spring and again six and 12 weeks afterward. Alternatively, apply a 1- to 2-inch-thick layer of compost around the foxgloves each spring to provide nutrients.
Step 3
Spread a 2-inch-thick layer of organic mulch, such as shredded leaves or bark chips, on the soil around the foxgloves. Keep the mulch about 1 to 2 inches away from the plants. Mulch promotes soil moisture retention and keeps weeds at bay.
Step 4
Treat and prevent powdery mildew outbreaks by properly spacing plants to allow proper air circulation, water from below and not overhead, clean up leaf debris below foxgloves and prune off affected foliage. Spray severe infections with ready-to-use Neem oil or horticultural oil, saturating the plant's foliage and repeating weekly or as needed. Do not use oil-based products when temperatures are above 90 degrees Fahrenheit or the plant is stressed from drought.
Step 5
Remove slugs or snails from the foxglove's foliage in the early morning when the pests are most active. Wear gloves and pick the pest from the plant, placing them in a small bowl of soapy water. Prune off any foliage damaged by the snails or slugs.
Step 6
Pinch off the foxgloves' wilted or faded flowers. Doing so keeps the plants looking neat and prevents them from spending energy on making seeds. Alternatively, wait until two-thirds of the flowers have faded, and then use pruning shears to cut back each entire stalk at the point where its base meets the bottom leaves.
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文章
Miss Chen
2018年09月06日
Winter-blooming clivia (Clivia miniata) flowers in winter and early spring. The clusters of yellow and orange blossoms are surrounded by strappy green leaves. Clivia grows outdoors in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 9 through 11, but it can grow as a houseplant anywhere with proper care.
Pick a Spot
Whether you grow clivia outdoors in the garden, or indoors in a pot, provide the plant with partial shade. Outdoor beds with dappled sunlight work well, while indoors you can set them in an area with bright but indirect sunlight. Clivia is prone to root rot in wet soil, so grow them in well-draining beds or use pots with bottom drainage holes. Temperatures below 32 degrees Fahrenheit kill the plant, so bring outdoor potted plants indoors before a freeze and don't allow the foliage to touch a window during cold weather.
Watering Wisely
How much water a clivia needs depends on the season. During spring and summer, water the soil when the top 1 inch feels completely dry. When watering a potted plant, allow the excess to drain from the bottom drainage in the pot and empty the drip tray afterward. Withhold water from late fall through midwinter if you want the plant to flower, because clivia only flowers in response to drought stress. During this dry rest period, keep the temperature below 60 F to further encourage blooms. Resume regular watering and increase temperatures when the flower stalk is about 6 inches tall.
Feeding Tips
Light fertilizer encourages healthy growth, whether the clivia is grown indoors or outside. Fertilize once a week in spring and summer. Dilute 1/2 teaspoon of 15-15-15 fertilizer in 1 gallon of water, and use the mixture water for one regular watering each week. Clivia doesn't need fertilizer during its dormant period in fall and winter.
Pruning Needs
Clivia doesn't require any regular pruning, but you can trim off dead or badly damaged leaves to improve the plant's appearance. Gently pull off the leaves or trim them off with shears wiped with a rubbing alcohol-soaked cloth. Potted clivia also rarely needs repotting and grows best when root bound. If the roots completely fill the pot, which happens about every three or four years, transplant it in spring to a new pot one size larger than the old one. The new pot must have bottom drainage holes. Plant the clivia at the same depth it was growing previously, and handle the roots gently to avoid damage.
Controlling Pests
Diseases rarely affect clivia, with the exception of root rot in overly wet soil. Indoors, aphids and mites may feed on the foliage, but you can rinse these off with a strong stream of water. Slugs and snails may feast on clivia foliage outdoors. Pick these off by hand and drop them into a bucket of soapy water.
Pick a Spot
Whether you grow clivia outdoors in the garden, or indoors in a pot, provide the plant with partial shade. Outdoor beds with dappled sunlight work well, while indoors you can set them in an area with bright but indirect sunlight. Clivia is prone to root rot in wet soil, so grow them in well-draining beds or use pots with bottom drainage holes. Temperatures below 32 degrees Fahrenheit kill the plant, so bring outdoor potted plants indoors before a freeze and don't allow the foliage to touch a window during cold weather.
Watering Wisely
How much water a clivia needs depends on the season. During spring and summer, water the soil when the top 1 inch feels completely dry. When watering a potted plant, allow the excess to drain from the bottom drainage in the pot and empty the drip tray afterward. Withhold water from late fall through midwinter if you want the plant to flower, because clivia only flowers in response to drought stress. During this dry rest period, keep the temperature below 60 F to further encourage blooms. Resume regular watering and increase temperatures when the flower stalk is about 6 inches tall.
Feeding Tips
Light fertilizer encourages healthy growth, whether the clivia is grown indoors or outside. Fertilize once a week in spring and summer. Dilute 1/2 teaspoon of 15-15-15 fertilizer in 1 gallon of water, and use the mixture water for one regular watering each week. Clivia doesn't need fertilizer during its dormant period in fall and winter.
Pruning Needs
Clivia doesn't require any regular pruning, but you can trim off dead or badly damaged leaves to improve the plant's appearance. Gently pull off the leaves or trim them off with shears wiped with a rubbing alcohol-soaked cloth. Potted clivia also rarely needs repotting and grows best when root bound. If the roots completely fill the pot, which happens about every three or four years, transplant it in spring to a new pot one size larger than the old one. The new pot must have bottom drainage holes. Plant the clivia at the same depth it was growing previously, and handle the roots gently to avoid damage.
Controlling Pests
Diseases rarely affect clivia, with the exception of root rot in overly wet soil. Indoors, aphids and mites may feed on the foliage, but you can rinse these off with a strong stream of water. Slugs and snails may feast on clivia foliage outdoors. Pick these off by hand and drop them into a bucket of soapy water.
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文章
Miss Chen
2018年09月05日
Bearing spikes of fluffy, purple, summer flowers, Liatris spicata, also known as blazing star, provides its best effect in mass plantings. Hardy in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 3 through 8, blazing star is a U.S. native that's also called gayfeather, snakeroot and dense blazing star. Its grass-like clumps grow 24 to 48 inches tall and 9 to 18 inches wide, and its flower spikes are 6 to 12 inches long. White, bluish and deep purple cultivars are available. A perennial plant, blazing star can be planted as a corm, which is a swollen underground stem, and also as a young plant. Blazing star flowers are attractive to butterflies.
Blazing Star Corms
Step 1
Till moist, well-drained soil in full sun with a garden fork to a depth of 6 inches in fall or spring. Mix in a 2-inch layer of garden compost, leaf mold or other organic matter if the soil is sandy and dry.
Step 2
Scatter blazing star corms across the growing site to create an informal effect or arrange the corms in the desired pattern. Space the corms about 2 to 4 inches apart and at a rate of 10 to 20 blazing star corms per square foot.
Step 3
Dig a hole beneath a blazing star corm 5 inches deep and as wide as the corm. Place it in the hole so that the widest, flattest part of the corm lies on the base of the hole. Fill in the hole with dug soil and plant the rest of the corms in the same way.
Step 4
Water the blazing star corms thoroughly and water regularly throughout the growing season so that the soil is constantly moist but not saturated.
Blazing Star Plants
Step 1
Dig a hole as wide and deep as the blazing star root ball in a full-sun growing site with a trowel in spring. Blazing star tolerates dry, infertile soil but grows and flowers best in moist, well-drained, rich soil.
Step 2
Place a blazing star plant in the hole so that the surface of the root ball is level with the surrounding soil. Fill in gaps around the root ball with dug soil. Space blazing star plants 9 to 18 inches apart.
Step 3
Water the blazing star plants thoroughly and apply water throughout the growing season to keep the soil moist, especially when conditions are dry.
Step 4
Spread a 9-18-9 ready-to-use, slow-release fertilizer around the planting site at a rate of 1 tablespoon per square foot. Apply the fertilizer every three months during the growing season.
Blazing Star Corms
Step 1
Till moist, well-drained soil in full sun with a garden fork to a depth of 6 inches in fall or spring. Mix in a 2-inch layer of garden compost, leaf mold or other organic matter if the soil is sandy and dry.
Step 2
Scatter blazing star corms across the growing site to create an informal effect or arrange the corms in the desired pattern. Space the corms about 2 to 4 inches apart and at a rate of 10 to 20 blazing star corms per square foot.
Step 3
Dig a hole beneath a blazing star corm 5 inches deep and as wide as the corm. Place it in the hole so that the widest, flattest part of the corm lies on the base of the hole. Fill in the hole with dug soil and plant the rest of the corms in the same way.
Step 4
Water the blazing star corms thoroughly and water regularly throughout the growing season so that the soil is constantly moist but not saturated.
Blazing Star Plants
Step 1
Dig a hole as wide and deep as the blazing star root ball in a full-sun growing site with a trowel in spring. Blazing star tolerates dry, infertile soil but grows and flowers best in moist, well-drained, rich soil.
Step 2
Place a blazing star plant in the hole so that the surface of the root ball is level with the surrounding soil. Fill in gaps around the root ball with dug soil. Space blazing star plants 9 to 18 inches apart.
Step 3
Water the blazing star plants thoroughly and apply water throughout the growing season to keep the soil moist, especially when conditions are dry.
Step 4
Spread a 9-18-9 ready-to-use, slow-release fertilizer around the planting site at a rate of 1 tablespoon per square foot. Apply the fertilizer every three months during the growing season.
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文章
Miss Chen
2018年09月05日
The Moses-in-the-cradle plant (Tradescantia spathacea) gets its interesting name from its flowers, which are small and white, and sit in a special leaf, called a bract, which resembles a dark purple boat. Also called boat lily, oyster plant, rhoeo tricolor and Moses-in-a-basket, this plant grows outdoors in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 9 through 11 and also does well as a houseplant. Easy to grow and tolerant of most environments, it forms short clumps of radiating, sword-shaped leaves in sun or shade, and needs only basic care and consistent moisture to thrive.
Plant Wisely
This plant can cause an allergic skin reaction in some people and pets, and can be poisonous if eaten in large quantities, so it's not a good choice for an area where pets or children play.
It can also be invasive in some parts of the U.S., spreading into forested areas. Check before planting whether it's a good choice for your area. Manage its tendency to get out of control by removing spent flowers to prevent seed formation, and prevent spreading of the clump by surrounding it with a physical barrier that extends several inches into the soil.
Proper Lighting
Moses-in-the-cradle grows to about 1 foot tall, spreading to form a clump up to 2 feet wide. It tolerates most lighting conditions, but prefers filtered sun or partial shade. It can grow in full sun, but in areas with strong, hot summer sun, provide some shade in the afternoon to protect the leaves from scorching.
If you grow this plant indoors, it does best in bright, indirect light for at least six to eight hours each day. The windowsill of a lightly curtained, south- or west-facing window gives the plant good light without too much direct sun.
Water Needs
When grown in the garden, Moses-in-the-basket prefers consistently moist soil and requires good drainage. Although the plant can also tolerate dry spells once established, adding a 2- to 3-inch layer of organic mulch, such as straw or shredded bark, helps conserve soil moisture and also keeps down competing weeds. In warm climates, the plant continues growing slowly during cold weather, but needs less water while it takes a rest.
If you grow Moses-in-the-cradle as a container plant, water it whenever the top 1 to 2 inches of soil feel dry to your fingertip. Never leave the pot in a water-filled saucer, because this can encourage fungal problems. Always use a pot that has drainage holes. In fall and winter, allow the soil to dry slightly between waterings to give the plant a rest.
Fertilizer and Pruning
Moses-in-the-cradle doesn't need fertilizer when grown outdoors in fertile soil that's rich in organic content. You can give the plant a boost by mixing a 1- to 2-inch layer of compost into its soil each spring, but do this carefully to avoid disturbing the roots.
If you grow the plant indoors, fertilize it every three months with a balanced, 10-10-10 fertilizer, diluted at a rate of 1/4 teaspoon in 1 gallon of water, but check your product label for additional directions.
This plant doesn't require regular pruning, but you can trim back an outdoor-grown Moses-in-the-cradle each spring to keep it within bounds. Cut the plant back to a height of a few inches, wiping your blade with rubbing alcohol between cuts to prevent the spread of disease.
Avoiding Problems
Moses-in-the-cradle is usually free of diseases when grown in well-drained soil, but it can attract a few pests. These include mealybugs, which are fluffy white insects, or tiny, winged whiteflies; spider mites, which aren't visible, also could produce weblike coverings on young leaves. Control these by spraying with ready-to-use insecticidal soap. Repeat every week or two as needed. Wear long sleeves, long pants, gloves and eye protection when spraying plants.
Plant Wisely
This plant can cause an allergic skin reaction in some people and pets, and can be poisonous if eaten in large quantities, so it's not a good choice for an area where pets or children play.
It can also be invasive in some parts of the U.S., spreading into forested areas. Check before planting whether it's a good choice for your area. Manage its tendency to get out of control by removing spent flowers to prevent seed formation, and prevent spreading of the clump by surrounding it with a physical barrier that extends several inches into the soil.
Proper Lighting
Moses-in-the-cradle grows to about 1 foot tall, spreading to form a clump up to 2 feet wide. It tolerates most lighting conditions, but prefers filtered sun or partial shade. It can grow in full sun, but in areas with strong, hot summer sun, provide some shade in the afternoon to protect the leaves from scorching.
If you grow this plant indoors, it does best in bright, indirect light for at least six to eight hours each day. The windowsill of a lightly curtained, south- or west-facing window gives the plant good light without too much direct sun.
Water Needs
When grown in the garden, Moses-in-the-basket prefers consistently moist soil and requires good drainage. Although the plant can also tolerate dry spells once established, adding a 2- to 3-inch layer of organic mulch, such as straw or shredded bark, helps conserve soil moisture and also keeps down competing weeds. In warm climates, the plant continues growing slowly during cold weather, but needs less water while it takes a rest.
If you grow Moses-in-the-cradle as a container plant, water it whenever the top 1 to 2 inches of soil feel dry to your fingertip. Never leave the pot in a water-filled saucer, because this can encourage fungal problems. Always use a pot that has drainage holes. In fall and winter, allow the soil to dry slightly between waterings to give the plant a rest.
Fertilizer and Pruning
Moses-in-the-cradle doesn't need fertilizer when grown outdoors in fertile soil that's rich in organic content. You can give the plant a boost by mixing a 1- to 2-inch layer of compost into its soil each spring, but do this carefully to avoid disturbing the roots.
If you grow the plant indoors, fertilize it every three months with a balanced, 10-10-10 fertilizer, diluted at a rate of 1/4 teaspoon in 1 gallon of water, but check your product label for additional directions.
This plant doesn't require regular pruning, but you can trim back an outdoor-grown Moses-in-the-cradle each spring to keep it within bounds. Cut the plant back to a height of a few inches, wiping your blade with rubbing alcohol between cuts to prevent the spread of disease.
Avoiding Problems
Moses-in-the-cradle is usually free of diseases when grown in well-drained soil, but it can attract a few pests. These include mealybugs, which are fluffy white insects, or tiny, winged whiteflies; spider mites, which aren't visible, also could produce weblike coverings on young leaves. Control these by spraying with ready-to-use insecticidal soap. Repeat every week or two as needed. Wear long sleeves, long pants, gloves and eye protection when spraying plants.
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文章
Miss Chen
2018年09月04日
Daylilies (Hemerocallis spp.) are named for their short-lived blooms, but these perennials can produce flowers for three to four weeks with the right care. Daylilies are hardy in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness 3 through 9 and grow 6 to 36 inches tall and 18 to 24 inches wide, depending on the variety. Watering daylilies frequently, removing their faded flowers, dividing them when crowded and growing them in full sun encourage prolific flowering.
Watering Daylilies
Continually moist soil promotes flowering in daylilies. These plants are drought-tolerant, but they flower best when they receive 1 inch of water per week, and they need more water when the weather is hot and dry.
Water daylilies thoroughly when their first flower buds appear in spring, and spread a 2-inch-thick layer of shredded leaves or other light mulch over the bare soil between plants. Water the plants again when the soil surface is dry; scrape back some mulch to check if you aren't sure about the soil's condition. Don't water the plants so much that the ground becomes soggy.
Removing Faded Flowers
Taking off faded flowers prevents daylilies from developing seeds, which encourages more blooms. Seedpods behind the faded flowers must be removed to prompt the plants to flower again.
Daylilies produce many flowers on single stems, and usually the flowers last about one day. Every two or three days, pinch off the faded flowers and developing seedpods where they join the stems. When all the flower buds on a stem have bloomed, prune the stem at its base. Sterilize pruning shear blades before and after pruning daylilies by wiping them with a cloth that was dipped in rubbing alcohol.
Dividing Daylilies
Poorly performing daylilies may be crowded, and dividing the plants usually increases blooming. Daylilies grow in fan-shaped clumps, and over time these clumps become congested. A sign of crowded plants is few flowers.
Divide daylilies in spring. Push a garden fork deeply into the ground several times around a daylily clump, levering the fork upward each time until the daylily's root ball lifts out of the ground. Using a sharp knife or two garden forks inserted back to back into the clump then pulled apart, divide the clump into three or four sections. Plant the sections 18 to 24 inches apart and at their original growing depths.
Using Full-Sun Sites
Daylilies flower best when planted in a full-sun location. Specimens growing in partially shaded spots grow well, but they flower less. Growing daylilies in areas that receive at least six hours of sunlight daily provides the most flowers, but in warm climates the plants need some light shade during the hottest part of the day.
Remove sources of shade, such as overhanging foliage, or transplant shaded daylilies to a full-sun site. Daylilies also can be replanted in a sunny spot after their clumps are divided in spring.
Watering Daylilies
Continually moist soil promotes flowering in daylilies. These plants are drought-tolerant, but they flower best when they receive 1 inch of water per week, and they need more water when the weather is hot and dry.
Water daylilies thoroughly when their first flower buds appear in spring, and spread a 2-inch-thick layer of shredded leaves or other light mulch over the bare soil between plants. Water the plants again when the soil surface is dry; scrape back some mulch to check if you aren't sure about the soil's condition. Don't water the plants so much that the ground becomes soggy.
Removing Faded Flowers
Taking off faded flowers prevents daylilies from developing seeds, which encourages more blooms. Seedpods behind the faded flowers must be removed to prompt the plants to flower again.
Daylilies produce many flowers on single stems, and usually the flowers last about one day. Every two or three days, pinch off the faded flowers and developing seedpods where they join the stems. When all the flower buds on a stem have bloomed, prune the stem at its base. Sterilize pruning shear blades before and after pruning daylilies by wiping them with a cloth that was dipped in rubbing alcohol.
Dividing Daylilies
Poorly performing daylilies may be crowded, and dividing the plants usually increases blooming. Daylilies grow in fan-shaped clumps, and over time these clumps become congested. A sign of crowded plants is few flowers.
Divide daylilies in spring. Push a garden fork deeply into the ground several times around a daylily clump, levering the fork upward each time until the daylily's root ball lifts out of the ground. Using a sharp knife or two garden forks inserted back to back into the clump then pulled apart, divide the clump into three or four sections. Plant the sections 18 to 24 inches apart and at their original growing depths.
Using Full-Sun Sites
Daylilies flower best when planted in a full-sun location. Specimens growing in partially shaded spots grow well, but they flower less. Growing daylilies in areas that receive at least six hours of sunlight daily provides the most flowers, but in warm climates the plants need some light shade during the hottest part of the day.
Remove sources of shade, such as overhanging foliage, or transplant shaded daylilies to a full-sun site. Daylilies also can be replanted in a sunny spot after their clumps are divided in spring.
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文章
Miss Chen
2018年09月04日
Newly transplanted day lilies (Hemerocallis spp.) establish quickly, producing lush, swordlike spring and summer foliage punctuated by bright summer flowers. Day lilies grow in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 3 through 10, depending on the variety. Whether you are transplanting new day lilies or dividing and transplanting those you already have, doing so at the right time ensures you still get to enjoy healthy plants and a full season of flowers.
New Plants
New day lily plants establish quickly when planted in spring, but you can plant them any time between spring and late summer. Potted plants can survive without immediate planting if you provide them with full sun and keep the soil moist. Day lilies bought as bareroot plants that aren't packaged in soil need immediate transplanting so the roots don't dry out. Trim off the top one-third of the foliage with shears wiped with a cloth soaked in rubbing alcohol before transplanting. Digging and transplanting on a cloudy day or in late afternoon prevents heat and sun stress on newly moved plants.
Divide and Move
Although existing day lily plants tolerate digging and transplanting any time during the spring and summer, the best time to dig in in early spring just as they begin putting on new growth, or in summer right after they finish their first flush of flowering. The plants require digging, dividing and transplanting every three years, or when the clumps get too large and the plants begin flowering poorly. Cutting back the leaves to 6 inches tall prevents breakage when you dig them up. Loosen the soil around the perimeter of the root zone with a spading fork and slide the fork underneath the roots, lifting the day lilies from the ground. Split the lifted clump into sections, with four leaf fans on each section, before transplanting.
The Transplant Process
Garden beds that get full, all-day sun with well-draining but moist soil provide healthy growing conditions for your day lilies. Mixing in a 2- to 4-inch layer of compost into the top 8 inches of soil improves the soil. Plant new or divided transplants in a hole about the same depth as the root ball, so the crown of the plants sits just at the soil surface, and then fill in the hole with soil. Creating a mound of soil in the bottom of the hole allows you to spread the day lily roots out in the hole so they can establish well. Space the plants about 18 inches apart to prevent overcrowding.
Care After Transplanting
A deep watering right after transplanting helps the soil settle around the roots. After watering, cover the soil with a 2- to 3-inch layer of bark or pine straw mulch, leaving 1 to 2 inches between the mulch and the base of the plants. Mulch helps retain moisture and insulates the soil, while also smothering and preventing weed growth. Water day lilies once each week, soaking the soil 8 inches deep. You can trim off any tattered or damaged leaves with disinfected shears to improve the appearance of the day lilies as they establish.
New Plants
New day lily plants establish quickly when planted in spring, but you can plant them any time between spring and late summer. Potted plants can survive without immediate planting if you provide them with full sun and keep the soil moist. Day lilies bought as bareroot plants that aren't packaged in soil need immediate transplanting so the roots don't dry out. Trim off the top one-third of the foliage with shears wiped with a cloth soaked in rubbing alcohol before transplanting. Digging and transplanting on a cloudy day or in late afternoon prevents heat and sun stress on newly moved plants.
Divide and Move
Although existing day lily plants tolerate digging and transplanting any time during the spring and summer, the best time to dig in in early spring just as they begin putting on new growth, or in summer right after they finish their first flush of flowering. The plants require digging, dividing and transplanting every three years, or when the clumps get too large and the plants begin flowering poorly. Cutting back the leaves to 6 inches tall prevents breakage when you dig them up. Loosen the soil around the perimeter of the root zone with a spading fork and slide the fork underneath the roots, lifting the day lilies from the ground. Split the lifted clump into sections, with four leaf fans on each section, before transplanting.
The Transplant Process
Garden beds that get full, all-day sun with well-draining but moist soil provide healthy growing conditions for your day lilies. Mixing in a 2- to 4-inch layer of compost into the top 8 inches of soil improves the soil. Plant new or divided transplants in a hole about the same depth as the root ball, so the crown of the plants sits just at the soil surface, and then fill in the hole with soil. Creating a mound of soil in the bottom of the hole allows you to spread the day lily roots out in the hole so they can establish well. Space the plants about 18 inches apart to prevent overcrowding.
Care After Transplanting
A deep watering right after transplanting helps the soil settle around the roots. After watering, cover the soil with a 2- to 3-inch layer of bark or pine straw mulch, leaving 1 to 2 inches between the mulch and the base of the plants. Mulch helps retain moisture and insulates the soil, while also smothering and preventing weed growth. Water day lilies once each week, soaking the soil 8 inches deep. You can trim off any tattered or damaged leaves with disinfected shears to improve the appearance of the day lilies as they establish.
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Miss Chen
2018年09月04日
Bee balm (Monarda didyma) sends up dense clusters of scarlet flowers in midsummer, and it often remains in bloom for a month or longer. The flowers attract butterflies, bees and hummingbirds to your flower bed, making it a suitable choice for a low-growing shrub or an anchor plant in the garden. Bee balms are hardy in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 4 through 9, where they require little maintenance to thrive. Removing the old flowers, a process called deadheading, and pruning correctly improves both the appearance and health of the bee balm.
Deadheading Benefits
Bee balm flowers don't retain any ornamental qualities after they fade. The formation of seeds can cause the quick decline of the foliage so the whole plant begins to die back before the end of the growing season. Removing the spent flowers prevents foliage loss and may encourage a second weaker flush of flowers, extending both the growing and the flowering season of the small shrub. Deadheading and pruning also increases air circulation, which can help prevent powdery mildew and fungus problems.
Tools and Preparation
Handheld pruning shears can handle the summer pruning needs of bee balm. Bypass shears work better than single-blad varieties because they make a clean cut without crushing the stem. Clean and disinfect the shears thoroughly before you begin deadheading and again after each plant to minimize the spread of diseases, pests or fungal spores. Wiping the shears with a cloth soaked in isopropyl alcohol allows for quick disinfection as you prune. Washing your hands before pruning and wearing gloves also helps prevent the spread of disease.
Deadheading Technique
Begin deadheading as soon as the first flower clusters begin to wilt and die. Cut back the flowering stems to within 1/4-inch of a leaf or leaf bud near the top of the stem. After deadheading, rake up and dispose of or compost the removed flowers. Bee balm begins flowering in midsummer and each flower cluster can persist for several weeks. Checking the plants weekly for wilting clusters allows for prompt removal of the older flowers so their seed production doesn't weaken the plant.
Cutting Back
Cutting back the entire bee balm after the first major flowering flush is over removes any remaining flower clusters and rejuvenates the foliage for the remainder of the growing season. Remove up to one-third of the plant from the top, trimming off both the old flowers and foliage. The bee balm usually responds with a flush of new growth and flower bud production, although this second flowering is not as lush as the first. You can also cut back the bee balm by half its height in mid-spring before it begins to flower to encourage fuller foliage and more flower buds, but this treatment may delay flowering by a few weeks.
Deadheading Benefits
Bee balm flowers don't retain any ornamental qualities after they fade. The formation of seeds can cause the quick decline of the foliage so the whole plant begins to die back before the end of the growing season. Removing the spent flowers prevents foliage loss and may encourage a second weaker flush of flowers, extending both the growing and the flowering season of the small shrub. Deadheading and pruning also increases air circulation, which can help prevent powdery mildew and fungus problems.
Tools and Preparation
Handheld pruning shears can handle the summer pruning needs of bee balm. Bypass shears work better than single-blad varieties because they make a clean cut without crushing the stem. Clean and disinfect the shears thoroughly before you begin deadheading and again after each plant to minimize the spread of diseases, pests or fungal spores. Wiping the shears with a cloth soaked in isopropyl alcohol allows for quick disinfection as you prune. Washing your hands before pruning and wearing gloves also helps prevent the spread of disease.
Deadheading Technique
Begin deadheading as soon as the first flower clusters begin to wilt and die. Cut back the flowering stems to within 1/4-inch of a leaf or leaf bud near the top of the stem. After deadheading, rake up and dispose of or compost the removed flowers. Bee balm begins flowering in midsummer and each flower cluster can persist for several weeks. Checking the plants weekly for wilting clusters allows for prompt removal of the older flowers so their seed production doesn't weaken the plant.
Cutting Back
Cutting back the entire bee balm after the first major flowering flush is over removes any remaining flower clusters and rejuvenates the foliage for the remainder of the growing season. Remove up to one-third of the plant from the top, trimming off both the old flowers and foliage. The bee balm usually responds with a flush of new growth and flower bud production, although this second flowering is not as lush as the first. You can also cut back the bee balm by half its height in mid-spring before it begins to flower to encourage fuller foliage and more flower buds, but this treatment may delay flowering by a few weeks.
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Miss Chen
2018年09月01日
Russian sage is a 3 to 5-foot tall perennial with purplish blue flowers and silver foliage. It has fragrant leaves and it blooms from mid-summer season to the fall. It is a good plant for fall color in the garden, to use for dried or cut flowers, or to attract butterflies. Russian sage can be propagated by division every three years in the spring season or fall.
Step 1
Make sure the plant isn't in active bloom and that the buds are dry. Russian sage is not in active bloom when the buds are dry, even though it may still look active.
Step 2
Cut down the stems to approximately 6 to 8 inches high with garden trimmers. After cutting, dig up the plant with a shovel, creating a wide circle around it to get as much rootball as can be salvaged.
Step 3
Remove soil around the roots and divide them into thirds if the plant is big enough, (in half if it is small). Pull the roots apart with your hands.
Step 4
Keep the roots in water while you are transplanting.
Step 5
Dig a new hole as deep as the length of the roots for divided plants with shovel, adding in manure and compost to add nutrients to the soil.
Step 6
Set the plant's crown at the surface of the dirt, pulling dirt around the plant's roots as you continue.
Step 7
Water Russian sage after the rootball has completely been covered in amended soil (soil with the added nutrients in step 5) and patted down (to ensure stability).
Step 8
Mulch around the plant when the ground is about to freeze, sometime before the first "hard freeze" in your area. Mulching prior to ground freeze will keep the plant insulated and ensure it survives the winter.
Step 1
Make sure the plant isn't in active bloom and that the buds are dry. Russian sage is not in active bloom when the buds are dry, even though it may still look active.
Step 2
Cut down the stems to approximately 6 to 8 inches high with garden trimmers. After cutting, dig up the plant with a shovel, creating a wide circle around it to get as much rootball as can be salvaged.
Step 3
Remove soil around the roots and divide them into thirds if the plant is big enough, (in half if it is small). Pull the roots apart with your hands.
Step 4
Keep the roots in water while you are transplanting.
Step 5
Dig a new hole as deep as the length of the roots for divided plants with shovel, adding in manure and compost to add nutrients to the soil.
Step 6
Set the plant's crown at the surface of the dirt, pulling dirt around the plant's roots as you continue.
Step 7
Water Russian sage after the rootball has completely been covered in amended soil (soil with the added nutrients in step 5) and patted down (to ensure stability).
Step 8
Mulch around the plant when the ground is about to freeze, sometime before the first "hard freeze" in your area. Mulching prior to ground freeze will keep the plant insulated and ensure it survives the winter.
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Miss Chen
2018年09月01日
Russian sage blooms with bright purple flowers that resemble lavender, mixing well with its gray-green leaves and adding a depth of color to any garden. The hardy perennial plant is drought resistant, and though it carries the name "sage," is not part of the edible sage family. Move your Russian sage to ground that will not flood in the winter or dangerously soak the plants root system.
Preparing the Site
Loosen the soil and add compost to prepare the new growing site before transplanting Russian sage. The soil for growing Russian sage must be loose to encourage water to drain. Mixing compost into the planting site also helps drainage, and provides evenly moist soil. At any frost-free time of year, loosen the soil in the new growing site to a depth of 12 to 15 inches using a garden fork. Spread a layer of compost 2 to 4 inches thick, and mix it into the soil with the garden fork.
Digging Up Russian Sage
Russian sage requires careful removal to minimize damage to its root system. Growing 3- to 5-feet tall and 2- to 4-feet wide, Russian sage can have an extensive root system, and some damage is unavoidable. Digging up the plant carefully is unlikely to cause serious harm. Push a garden fork into the ground about 1 foot from the Russian sage's central stem, and lever the end of the fork upward. Repeat this around the plant's base, slowly working the root ball out of the soil. Wear gloves when handling the plant, since the leaves may cause irritation or an allergic reaction. Lift the plant out, and put it down on the soil's surface. Break off excess soil in areas that contain no roots, to lighten the plant's weight.
Moving Russian Sage
Take the Russian sage to its new growing site immediately after digging it up to prevent its roots from drying out. Russian sage is drought-tolerant and low-maintenance and should suffer few problems from transplanting, but replanting it right away increases the chances of success. Dig a hole 2 1/2 feet wide and as deep as the depth of the Russian sage's root ball, which is usually about 1 foot. Place the plant in the hole so that it's level and sitting at its original growing depth. You may need to add or remove soil at the base of the hole. Fill in the gaps around the root ball with dug soil, and gently firm the plant in its hole.
After Care
Regular watering helps Russian sage quickly establish in its new site. Water the Russian sage using a garden hose fitted with a spray attachment. Spray water over the root area until it begins to puddle, but avoid washing away soil. Through the rest of the growing season water Russian sage when the soil is dry to a depth of 2 inches. Russian sage grows sturdy, dense and upright if it is pruned in spring. Sterilize pruning shear blades by wiping them with a cloth that was dipped in rubbing alcohol, and prune all Russian sage stems to 6-inches tall in spring before new growth appears. Sterilize the pruning shears again after pruning.
Preparing the Site
Loosen the soil and add compost to prepare the new growing site before transplanting Russian sage. The soil for growing Russian sage must be loose to encourage water to drain. Mixing compost into the planting site also helps drainage, and provides evenly moist soil. At any frost-free time of year, loosen the soil in the new growing site to a depth of 12 to 15 inches using a garden fork. Spread a layer of compost 2 to 4 inches thick, and mix it into the soil with the garden fork.
Digging Up Russian Sage
Russian sage requires careful removal to minimize damage to its root system. Growing 3- to 5-feet tall and 2- to 4-feet wide, Russian sage can have an extensive root system, and some damage is unavoidable. Digging up the plant carefully is unlikely to cause serious harm. Push a garden fork into the ground about 1 foot from the Russian sage's central stem, and lever the end of the fork upward. Repeat this around the plant's base, slowly working the root ball out of the soil. Wear gloves when handling the plant, since the leaves may cause irritation or an allergic reaction. Lift the plant out, and put it down on the soil's surface. Break off excess soil in areas that contain no roots, to lighten the plant's weight.
Moving Russian Sage
Take the Russian sage to its new growing site immediately after digging it up to prevent its roots from drying out. Russian sage is drought-tolerant and low-maintenance and should suffer few problems from transplanting, but replanting it right away increases the chances of success. Dig a hole 2 1/2 feet wide and as deep as the depth of the Russian sage's root ball, which is usually about 1 foot. Place the plant in the hole so that it's level and sitting at its original growing depth. You may need to add or remove soil at the base of the hole. Fill in the gaps around the root ball with dug soil, and gently firm the plant in its hole.
After Care
Regular watering helps Russian sage quickly establish in its new site. Water the Russian sage using a garden hose fitted with a spray attachment. Spray water over the root area until it begins to puddle, but avoid washing away soil. Through the rest of the growing season water Russian sage when the soil is dry to a depth of 2 inches. Russian sage grows sturdy, dense and upright if it is pruned in spring. Sterilize pruning shear blades by wiping them with a cloth that was dipped in rubbing alcohol, and prune all Russian sage stems to 6-inches tall in spring before new growth appears. Sterilize the pruning shears again after pruning.
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Miss Chen
2018年09月01日
A standby in the butterfly garden, milkweed (Asclepias syriaca), which grows in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 3 through 9, provides the sole food source for monarch butterfly caterpillars. This 2 to 3-foot-tall perennial flowers through the summer and is one of several nectar sources for the adult monarch butterflies. With little required care, milkweed is a smart choice for meadows and wild areas of the yard.
Seed Control
Milkweed is best grown in naturalized areas and meadows as it tends to spread and take over more formal garden settings. You can keep it in check by plucking off all the flowers before they turn into seedpods. Use a pair of pruning shears. After clipping, rinse the blades in a solution of 1 part rubbing alcohol to 1 part water then let them dry before storing. Milkweed also spreads -- sometimes aggressively -- by its roots.
Milkweed and Larvae
Monarch butterfly caterpillars rely on the milkweed's leaves for food, but they leave holes behind when they feed. Because of this, milkweed works best in an informal garden setting where the feeding caterpillars can leave ragged-looking plants without ruining your manicured gardens. The caterpillars are easy to find with their striking yellow, white and black stripes.
Slug Problems
While resistant to disease, milkweed does attract slugs. These slow-moving, leaf-eating garden pests damage leaves and flowers when given a chance. If you notice large holes in the leaves, check for slugs -- the best time is after dark with a flashlight -- under the leaves every two to three days. Bring a bucket of water with 1 capful of dish soap added with you. As you pick off the slugs, drop them in the bucket. The soap kills the slugs, eliminating the unpleasant task of crushing them. Wear gardening gloves if you don't like touching the slugs.
Milkweed Aphids
Milkweed aphids suck sap from the plant's leaves. While natural predators usually keep aphids in check, you can use insecticidal soap for severe infestations. Spray the aphids directly with a ready-to-use product until they are saturated. Be careful not to get any on monarch butterfly caterpillars. Because milkweed is such an important plant for the monarch butterfly, avoid treatments when possible and don't use harsher chemical treatments. Sometimes simply spraying aphids with a strong jet of water is enough to get rid of them. Don't mistake the aphids for monarch eggs. Monarch butterflies commonly lay a single egg on each milkweed plant under a leaf. The milkweed aphids are yellow and generally live in colonies while the egg is and white and commonly on its own.
Winter Care and Toxicity
Milkweed plants survive the winter in cold regions by going dormant. In fall, adding a 3- to 4-inch-deep layer of mulch helps insulate the soil. While not required, this helps keep the ground from freezing and thawing and disrupting the roots. In spring, pull back the mulch to give space to the new growth. Plant milkweed away from areas where small children or pets spend time as the leaves are toxic if eaten.
Seed Control
Milkweed is best grown in naturalized areas and meadows as it tends to spread and take over more formal garden settings. You can keep it in check by plucking off all the flowers before they turn into seedpods. Use a pair of pruning shears. After clipping, rinse the blades in a solution of 1 part rubbing alcohol to 1 part water then let them dry before storing. Milkweed also spreads -- sometimes aggressively -- by its roots.
Milkweed and Larvae
Monarch butterfly caterpillars rely on the milkweed's leaves for food, but they leave holes behind when they feed. Because of this, milkweed works best in an informal garden setting where the feeding caterpillars can leave ragged-looking plants without ruining your manicured gardens. The caterpillars are easy to find with their striking yellow, white and black stripes.
Slug Problems
While resistant to disease, milkweed does attract slugs. These slow-moving, leaf-eating garden pests damage leaves and flowers when given a chance. If you notice large holes in the leaves, check for slugs -- the best time is after dark with a flashlight -- under the leaves every two to three days. Bring a bucket of water with 1 capful of dish soap added with you. As you pick off the slugs, drop them in the bucket. The soap kills the slugs, eliminating the unpleasant task of crushing them. Wear gardening gloves if you don't like touching the slugs.
Milkweed Aphids
Milkweed aphids suck sap from the plant's leaves. While natural predators usually keep aphids in check, you can use insecticidal soap for severe infestations. Spray the aphids directly with a ready-to-use product until they are saturated. Be careful not to get any on monarch butterfly caterpillars. Because milkweed is such an important plant for the monarch butterfly, avoid treatments when possible and don't use harsher chemical treatments. Sometimes simply spraying aphids with a strong jet of water is enough to get rid of them. Don't mistake the aphids for monarch eggs. Monarch butterflies commonly lay a single egg on each milkweed plant under a leaf. The milkweed aphids are yellow and generally live in colonies while the egg is and white and commonly on its own.
Winter Care and Toxicity
Milkweed plants survive the winter in cold regions by going dormant. In fall, adding a 3- to 4-inch-deep layer of mulch helps insulate the soil. While not required, this helps keep the ground from freezing and thawing and disrupting the roots. In spring, pull back the mulch to give space to the new growth. Plant milkweed away from areas where small children or pets spend time as the leaves are toxic if eaten.
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Miss Chen
2018年08月31日
Blue flowers are hard to find in the garden -- most lean toward purple hues. However, Evolvulus glomeratus "Blue Daze" is aptly named: The low-growing, herbaceous perennial features true-blue flowers that stand out against the attractive, olive-green leaves. Perfect for borders or containers, "Blue Daze" blooms all summer long when cared for properly.
Climate and Temperatures
"Blue Daze" is a warmth-loving plant. It is hardy in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 8 through 11. In cooler climates, it is often grown as an annual or in a container that is brought indoors for the winter. Situate this plant where it will stay nice and warm. In fact, if you have a hot spot in your garden where other plants wilt, replace those plants with this flower -- "Blue Daze" likes it hot. It can even tolerate salty conditions, so if you're near the coast, plant this flower in a hanging container and watch it withstand the salty air. Most outdoor plants die at the first hint of freezing temperatures, so bring container plants indoors well before cool fall temperatures arise. Some "Blue Daze" plants can tolerate a light frost if they are surrounded by a thick layer of mulch.
Light and Location
For "Blue Daze" to bloom properly, it needs full sunlight. Each flower opens for only one day, but it is replaced by a new flower the next day. If the day is cloudy or the plant is shaded, the flower won't open and its brief life is wasted. Locate these plants -- including those grown in containers -- where they will get as much hot, direct sunlight as possible. As far as soil goes, "Blue Daze" tolerates a range of soils, including poor or sandy soil, as long as it is well drained. If you bring a container indoors for the winter, locate it in bright but indirect sunlight and in a cool location.
Food and Water
Because "Blue Daze" is such a prolific bloomer, it benefits from monthly applications of fertilizer during the growing season. Use a bloom-boosting 15-30-15 formulation, water-soluble fertilizer once a month, following the instructions for application on the package. These instructions vary depending on the brand, but in general, dilute 1 tablespoon of the fertilizer in 1 gallon of water and use this solution to water your plants. Because "Blue Daze" thrives in full, hot sunlight, it needs frequent watering. Water when the surface of the soil feels dry to the touch and frequently enough so that the soil is almost continually but barely moist. In the winter, they need little watering.
Pests and Problems
"Blue Daze" is a hardy plant. It does not suffer from serious pest or disease problems. The one thing it cannot tolerate is soggy soil. Extended periods of rain cause fungal problems to develop in the soil, which quickly destroy the shallow roots of the plant. Overwatering leads to the same result, as does poorly drained soils. Plants grown in containers should have drainage holes in the base to prevent this problem, and home gardeners should avoid planting "Blue Daze" in depressions or other locations that tend to collect water.
Climate and Temperatures
"Blue Daze" is a warmth-loving plant. It is hardy in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 8 through 11. In cooler climates, it is often grown as an annual or in a container that is brought indoors for the winter. Situate this plant where it will stay nice and warm. In fact, if you have a hot spot in your garden where other plants wilt, replace those plants with this flower -- "Blue Daze" likes it hot. It can even tolerate salty conditions, so if you're near the coast, plant this flower in a hanging container and watch it withstand the salty air. Most outdoor plants die at the first hint of freezing temperatures, so bring container plants indoors well before cool fall temperatures arise. Some "Blue Daze" plants can tolerate a light frost if they are surrounded by a thick layer of mulch.
Light and Location
For "Blue Daze" to bloom properly, it needs full sunlight. Each flower opens for only one day, but it is replaced by a new flower the next day. If the day is cloudy or the plant is shaded, the flower won't open and its brief life is wasted. Locate these plants -- including those grown in containers -- where they will get as much hot, direct sunlight as possible. As far as soil goes, "Blue Daze" tolerates a range of soils, including poor or sandy soil, as long as it is well drained. If you bring a container indoors for the winter, locate it in bright but indirect sunlight and in a cool location.
Food and Water
Because "Blue Daze" is such a prolific bloomer, it benefits from monthly applications of fertilizer during the growing season. Use a bloom-boosting 15-30-15 formulation, water-soluble fertilizer once a month, following the instructions for application on the package. These instructions vary depending on the brand, but in general, dilute 1 tablespoon of the fertilizer in 1 gallon of water and use this solution to water your plants. Because "Blue Daze" thrives in full, hot sunlight, it needs frequent watering. Water when the surface of the soil feels dry to the touch and frequently enough so that the soil is almost continually but barely moist. In the winter, they need little watering.
Pests and Problems
"Blue Daze" is a hardy plant. It does not suffer from serious pest or disease problems. The one thing it cannot tolerate is soggy soil. Extended periods of rain cause fungal problems to develop in the soil, which quickly destroy the shallow roots of the plant. Overwatering leads to the same result, as does poorly drained soils. Plants grown in containers should have drainage holes in the base to prevent this problem, and home gardeners should avoid planting "Blue Daze" in depressions or other locations that tend to collect water.
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Miss Chen
2018年08月31日
Winterize both garden-grown and container-grown hostas in the fall to prevent root damage. They will reward this extra winter care with lush new foliage in the spring and showy flowers in the summer. There's only one way to winterize hostas growing in the ground, but a few options exist for container hostas.
Hostas and Winter Damage
Hostas (Hosta spp.) are hardy in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 3 to 9. They can survive winter temperatures as low as -40 degrees Fahrenheit when planted in the ground. Damage occurs to the root system when temperatures fluctuate. This is a bigger problem for hostas planted in the fall because they have not had a chance to grow their roots deep into the ground, but damage can occur in established hostas, too. As the ground goes through thaws and freezes, it pushes or heaves the hostas up, exposing their roots to the elements.
Hostas in the Ground
Cover hostas with 2 to 3 inches of shredded bark mulch in the fall after the ground freezes to a depth of 3 inches. The mulch will help insulate the soil, reducing the severity of temperature fluctuations, and protect the crowns of the plants. Remove the mulch in the spring when the ground thaws and there is no longer any danger that it will freeze again.
The tops of the hostas must be uncovered right away if new shoots begin to poke through the mulch. It can be left covering the crowns of the plants, though, if there is a chance temperatures may plummet again. Remove mulch from the crowns of the plants and pull it back a few inches away from stems after the danger of freezing temperatures has passed.
Hostas in Containers
Protect container-grown hostas from extreme cold, temperature fluctuations and moisture. Hostas in containers will be subjected to wind-chill temperatures far below what they would experience in the ground, and fluctuations will be more extreme. In addition, moisture will gather in the pots on top of the frozen roots when the sun warms the container, which will cause root rot.
Move hostas into an unheated garage or shed when temperatures begin to drop below freezing. Water them if temperatures warm to above freezing and the soil thaws only if it is completely dry. Set them back outdoors in the spring when temperatures warm to above freezing. If new shoots appear before freezing temperatures are over for the year, move the hostas outdoors to get some sunshine during the day while it is warm then back into the enclosure at night.
Dig holes in the ground large enough to hold the containers and sink the hostas, containers and all, into the ground in the fall before it freezes. Cover them with 2 to 3 inches of shredded bark mulch after the ground freezes. Pile the mulch over the top of the soil within the containers beneath the leaves and add more until plants are covered. This will prevent water pooling on the soil in the containers. Remove mulch in the spring and move the containers back to their usual positions when the danger of freezing weather has passed.
Bunch the potted hostas close together in an area protected from the wind such as right up against the north side of a building or next to the foundation of the house underneath a deck. Pile shredded bark mulch or shredded leaves over the soil in the containers and then over all of the plants to a depth of 2 to 3 inches. Pack it along the outer edge of the group of containers to a thickness of 3 to 4 inches. Uncover them and move them back to their usual locations in the spring when temperatures are likely to stay above freezing.
Hostas and Winter Damage
Hostas (Hosta spp.) are hardy in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 3 to 9. They can survive winter temperatures as low as -40 degrees Fahrenheit when planted in the ground. Damage occurs to the root system when temperatures fluctuate. This is a bigger problem for hostas planted in the fall because they have not had a chance to grow their roots deep into the ground, but damage can occur in established hostas, too. As the ground goes through thaws and freezes, it pushes or heaves the hostas up, exposing their roots to the elements.
Hostas in the Ground
Cover hostas with 2 to 3 inches of shredded bark mulch in the fall after the ground freezes to a depth of 3 inches. The mulch will help insulate the soil, reducing the severity of temperature fluctuations, and protect the crowns of the plants. Remove the mulch in the spring when the ground thaws and there is no longer any danger that it will freeze again.
The tops of the hostas must be uncovered right away if new shoots begin to poke through the mulch. It can be left covering the crowns of the plants, though, if there is a chance temperatures may plummet again. Remove mulch from the crowns of the plants and pull it back a few inches away from stems after the danger of freezing temperatures has passed.
Hostas in Containers
Protect container-grown hostas from extreme cold, temperature fluctuations and moisture. Hostas in containers will be subjected to wind-chill temperatures far below what they would experience in the ground, and fluctuations will be more extreme. In addition, moisture will gather in the pots on top of the frozen roots when the sun warms the container, which will cause root rot.
Move hostas into an unheated garage or shed when temperatures begin to drop below freezing. Water them if temperatures warm to above freezing and the soil thaws only if it is completely dry. Set them back outdoors in the spring when temperatures warm to above freezing. If new shoots appear before freezing temperatures are over for the year, move the hostas outdoors to get some sunshine during the day while it is warm then back into the enclosure at night.
Dig holes in the ground large enough to hold the containers and sink the hostas, containers and all, into the ground in the fall before it freezes. Cover them with 2 to 3 inches of shredded bark mulch after the ground freezes. Pile the mulch over the top of the soil within the containers beneath the leaves and add more until plants are covered. This will prevent water pooling on the soil in the containers. Remove mulch in the spring and move the containers back to their usual positions when the danger of freezing weather has passed.
Bunch the potted hostas close together in an area protected from the wind such as right up against the north side of a building or next to the foundation of the house underneath a deck. Pile shredded bark mulch or shredded leaves over the soil in the containers and then over all of the plants to a depth of 2 to 3 inches. Pack it along the outer edge of the group of containers to a thickness of 3 to 4 inches. Uncover them and move them back to their usual locations in the spring when temperatures are likely to stay above freezing.
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文章
Miss Chen
2018年08月30日
Shasta daisies (Leucanthemum X superbum) are undemanding plants, but pruning encourages more flowers and stronger growth. These perennials grow in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 5 through 9, and thrive in full sun and well-drained, alkaline soils. They benefit from pruning from mid-summer onward, and dividing plants also encourages healthy growth. Shasta daisies grow 2 to 3 feet tall and 1 1/2 to 2 feet wide, depending on the cultivar.
Fading Flowers
Pruning Shasta daisy blooms as they fade encourages more flowers. Shasta daisies can flower less after they set seed, but removing the flowers before seeds develop prompts the plants to bloom again. Sterilize your pruning shear blades by wiping them with rubbing alcohol, and prune Shasta daisies when their petals droop and turn brown. Hold the flower in one hand and feel down to the base of the flower stem with the other hand. Prune the stem at the base, and remove the other fading blooms in the same way. Sterilize your pruning shears again after use.
Summer Pruning
Shasta daises benefit from pruning when the earliest blooms start to fade. Check your Shasta daisies every week, and prune fading flowers until late summer or the end of blooming. If the soil surface is dry after pruning, water plants until the water begins to puddle on the ground, and feed them with a liquid 15-30-15 fertilizer, which encourages more blooms. Dilute the product at a rate of 1 tablespoon per 1 gallon of water and apply it every 14 days, or dilute and apply the product according to the instructions on the label.
Pruning Clumps
Severely pruning Shasta daisy clumps in early fall can prolong their lives. Shasta daisies are short-lived perennials, but removing their leaves and stems when flowering is over encourages strong growth, which helps plants store energy for winter. Prune Shasta daisies to 8 inches tall, using sterilized pruning shears, and put the trimmings on the compost pile or in the trash. If your plants are too tall and lanky, pinch out the tips of non-flowering stems with your thumb and forefinger in spring to encourage them to grow more compact and bushy.
Lifting and Dividing
Lift and divide Shasta daisies every two or three years to encourage strong, healthy growth and flowering. Dig up a Shasta daisy plant on a cool, cloudy day in winter or early spring by pushing a garden fork into the soil about 6 inches from the plant base and gently levering it up. Do this three or four times around the base until the root ball lifts out of the soil. Divide the plant into three sections by pushing a sharp spade down through the roots, and plant the sections 24 to 36 inches apart at their original growing depths. Water the plants thoroughly and continue to water them regularly so that the soil stays moist.
Fading Flowers
Pruning Shasta daisy blooms as they fade encourages more flowers. Shasta daisies can flower less after they set seed, but removing the flowers before seeds develop prompts the plants to bloom again. Sterilize your pruning shear blades by wiping them with rubbing alcohol, and prune Shasta daisies when their petals droop and turn brown. Hold the flower in one hand and feel down to the base of the flower stem with the other hand. Prune the stem at the base, and remove the other fading blooms in the same way. Sterilize your pruning shears again after use.
Summer Pruning
Shasta daises benefit from pruning when the earliest blooms start to fade. Check your Shasta daisies every week, and prune fading flowers until late summer or the end of blooming. If the soil surface is dry after pruning, water plants until the water begins to puddle on the ground, and feed them with a liquid 15-30-15 fertilizer, which encourages more blooms. Dilute the product at a rate of 1 tablespoon per 1 gallon of water and apply it every 14 days, or dilute and apply the product according to the instructions on the label.
Pruning Clumps
Severely pruning Shasta daisy clumps in early fall can prolong their lives. Shasta daisies are short-lived perennials, but removing their leaves and stems when flowering is over encourages strong growth, which helps plants store energy for winter. Prune Shasta daisies to 8 inches tall, using sterilized pruning shears, and put the trimmings on the compost pile or in the trash. If your plants are too tall and lanky, pinch out the tips of non-flowering stems with your thumb and forefinger in spring to encourage them to grow more compact and bushy.
Lifting and Dividing
Lift and divide Shasta daisies every two or three years to encourage strong, healthy growth and flowering. Dig up a Shasta daisy plant on a cool, cloudy day in winter or early spring by pushing a garden fork into the soil about 6 inches from the plant base and gently levering it up. Do this three or four times around the base until the root ball lifts out of the soil. Divide the plant into three sections by pushing a sharp spade down through the roots, and plant the sections 24 to 36 inches apart at their original growing depths. Water the plants thoroughly and continue to water them regularly so that the soil stays moist.
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