成长记
kensong
2018年11月05日
I love how my string of hearts is growing and it is now littered by little flowers all the way down to the floor.
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求助
Carenza
2018年09月22日
Hello, can anyone help me identify this succulent? it has stayed relatively small and it never has any flowers. Thank-you! 🙂
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suculea：sempervivum
Carenza：@Fion Hello, I'm sorry but I haven't been able to do any further research based on the translation of what you said (I am English). Any further information would be greatly appreciated 🙂
Fion：长生草
文章
Miss Chen
2018年09月10日
There are few flowers that are as beautiful as a simple daisy. They can dress up well manicured flower beds and also look magnificent among roadside weeds. While daisies are a favorite flower of summer no matter where they are growing, what if they are located in a spot that just doesn't support them anymore? Can you move them to a different part of the lawn or bring them home from that roadside roost? Absolutely, if you time it just right and know what you are doing.
Step 1
When selecting a site for daisies, it is important to place them in a location with full sun. The best time of the year to transplant is spring, which will allow the root systems to take before winter. Some choose to transplant daisies right after they bloom in early summer.
Step 2
Prepare the new bed that the daisies will be moving to. Dig a hole twice the size and almost twice as deep as the root ball you are digging up. Fill the hole with water. Even though this will absorb before the new plants come in, it will assure that the new area is moist and will encourage the roots to take.
Step 3
If you are transplanting daisies by moving them from ground they are already planted in, you want to dig an extra 5 inches out from around the roots. If you are moving some daisies from a large clump, this will give you more that are likely to survive any transplant shock. The larger the root ball area is, the less shock damage will be done to the roots.
Step 4
Once you have the root ball dug, do not shake any dirt from it if at all possible. This will help keep the root ball intact and minimize shock. Place the root ball into the new location. Cover with dirt mixed with a third of mulch. Water again and if any dirt seems to have run off the roots, be sure to add more to cover. Tamp the dirt down again.
Keep your plants well watered for 3 weeks until the roots have a chance to become grounded in the new location. Sit back and enjoy the beauty of the daisies.
Step 1
When selecting a site for daisies, it is important to place them in a location with full sun. The best time of the year to transplant is spring, which will allow the root systems to take before winter. Some choose to transplant daisies right after they bloom in early summer.
Step 2
Prepare the new bed that the daisies will be moving to. Dig a hole twice the size and almost twice as deep as the root ball you are digging up. Fill the hole with water. Even though this will absorb before the new plants come in, it will assure that the new area is moist and will encourage the roots to take.
Step 3
If you are transplanting daisies by moving them from ground they are already planted in, you want to dig an extra 5 inches out from around the roots. If you are moving some daisies from a large clump, this will give you more that are likely to survive any transplant shock. The larger the root ball area is, the less shock damage will be done to the roots.
Step 4
Once you have the root ball dug, do not shake any dirt from it if at all possible. This will help keep the root ball intact and minimize shock. Place the root ball into the new location. Cover with dirt mixed with a third of mulch. Water again and if any dirt seems to have run off the roots, be sure to add more to cover. Tamp the dirt down again.
Keep your plants well watered for 3 weeks until the roots have a chance to become grounded in the new location. Sit back and enjoy the beauty of the daisies.
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文章
Miss Chen
2018年09月10日
For a dramatic statement in your flower bed, try growing lupines (Lupinus spp.). These herbaceous perennials have mounds of bright green leaves and produce compact spikes of flowers that can grow upwards to 42 inches tall -- perfect for attracting bees, hummingbirds and butterflies. The flowers of these legumes come in a range of colors from white, cream, pink, rose-mauve, pale yellow, all shades of blue and all shades of violet, including one so dark it's nearly black. Lupines generally thrive in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 4 to 7, depending on the species and cultivar.
Step 1
Select a well-drained site with full sunlight or semi-shade; tall varieties of lupines may need protection from the wind. The soil does not need to be particularly rich, but it should be neutral to slightly acidic. Test the soil and add sulfur or peat moss several weeks before planting to adjust its pH to between 6.8 and 7.2. Because lupines bloom early in the season and may look unsightly after flowering, place them near the back of the flower bed.
Step 2
Transplant lupines in the spring. Dig a hole that is larger than the plant's container. Carefully remove the lupine from the container and gently loosen the roots with your fingers. Place the plant in the hole, fill the hole with soil and tamp down gently to remove air spaces. Water gently to settle the soil. Depending upon the species of lupine, space the plants 15 to 24 inches apart. Apply light, organic mulch to hold down weeds and to help retain soil moisture.
Step 3
Water lupines regularly. Don't let the soil dry out completely. Apply a light amount of high potash fertilizer as the buds begin to form. Powdery mildew can be a problem, as well as aphids. Control these with a general fungicide and pesticide. Lupines can also develop viruses that cause stunting and discoloration. If this happens, destroy the plants; do not add them to the compost pile.
Step 4
Watch for the lupines to bloom beginning in early summer and continuing through mid-summer. Deadhead the plants regularly, removing spent flower spikes with pruning shears to prevent seed development. This allows the smaller flower spikes to develop and keeps lupines from spreading out of control. However, if you want to collect the seeds, allow the pods to dry on the plant and then collect the pods. Open the pods and store the seeds in an envelope in a cool dry place until time to plant.
Step 5
Sow the lupine seeds either in the early fall or early spring. Scarify (nick) the seeds before planting to quicken germination. Plant the seeds 1/4 to 1/2 inches deep. Because of the shallow planting depth, water gently so as not to disturb the seeds. Young seedlings require consistent moisture to help them establish healthy root systems.
Step 1
Select a well-drained site with full sunlight or semi-shade; tall varieties of lupines may need protection from the wind. The soil does not need to be particularly rich, but it should be neutral to slightly acidic. Test the soil and add sulfur or peat moss several weeks before planting to adjust its pH to between 6.8 and 7.2. Because lupines bloom early in the season and may look unsightly after flowering, place them near the back of the flower bed.
Step 2
Transplant lupines in the spring. Dig a hole that is larger than the plant's container. Carefully remove the lupine from the container and gently loosen the roots with your fingers. Place the plant in the hole, fill the hole with soil and tamp down gently to remove air spaces. Water gently to settle the soil. Depending upon the species of lupine, space the plants 15 to 24 inches apart. Apply light, organic mulch to hold down weeds and to help retain soil moisture.
Step 3
Water lupines regularly. Don't let the soil dry out completely. Apply a light amount of high potash fertilizer as the buds begin to form. Powdery mildew can be a problem, as well as aphids. Control these with a general fungicide and pesticide. Lupines can also develop viruses that cause stunting and discoloration. If this happens, destroy the plants; do not add them to the compost pile.
Step 4
Watch for the lupines to bloom beginning in early summer and continuing through mid-summer. Deadhead the plants regularly, removing spent flower spikes with pruning shears to prevent seed development. This allows the smaller flower spikes to develop and keeps lupines from spreading out of control. However, if you want to collect the seeds, allow the pods to dry on the plant and then collect the pods. Open the pods and store the seeds in an envelope in a cool dry place until time to plant.
Step 5
Sow the lupine seeds either in the early fall or early spring. Scarify (nick) the seeds before planting to quicken germination. Plant the seeds 1/4 to 1/2 inches deep. Because of the shallow planting depth, water gently so as not to disturb the seeds. Young seedlings require consistent moisture to help them establish healthy root systems.
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文章
Miss Chen
2018年09月10日
Himalayan blue poppies are one of the few flowers that produce an intense sky-blue blossom. In their native location in China, they can grow to more than 6 feet tall; in other locations, they average 20 to 28 inches tall. These poppies look best planted in mass displays or threaded throughout a border. These flowers are not a good choice for the impatient gardener; in some locations they may not bloom the first season. The foliage will die down for the winter and you should expect to see blooms the second year. If it is prevented from blooming the first time the bud sets, the poppy is more likely to become a perennial. These flowers are suitable for USDA zones 3 to 8.
Step 1
Select a site for the Himalayan blue poppies. These plants need partial, dappled shade and protection from strong, drying winds. The soil needs to be rich and well-drained and, in colder climates, it needs to be acidic. Several weeks before planting, dig up the soil, remove rocks and other garden debris and test the pH level. If the soil is too alkaline, amend it with sulfur. Add plenty of organic matter to enrich the soil.
Step 2
Plant the poppies in early spring. Dig a hole that is larger than the poppy's container. Remove it from the container and gently loosen the roots with your fingers. Place the poppy in the hole, add soil to fill in the hole and tamp down gently to remove air bubbles. Water gently to settle the soil. Space the poppies 18 to 24 inches apart.
Step 3
Water the poppies regularly, but do not over water; waterlogged plants can suffer from crown rot. However, do not let the soil dry out between waterings. Give them a light application of general fertilizer in the spring. Downy mildew can be a problem, especially in locations with high humidity. Spray with a fungicide at the first sign of mildew.
Step 4
Watch for the Himalayan blue poppies to bloom beginning in early summer and continuing through to early fall. Unless you want the seed to ripen, remove spent flower stems. After all growth dies down, cut the poppies to ground level. Use a plant marker to indicate the location of the poppies.
Step 5
Propagate the poppies from fresh ripe seed in the fall or spring. After the seeds have sprouted, thin the seedlings to 18 to 24 inches apart. Water well initially, but back off so as not to over water.
Step 1
Select a site for the Himalayan blue poppies. These plants need partial, dappled shade and protection from strong, drying winds. The soil needs to be rich and well-drained and, in colder climates, it needs to be acidic. Several weeks before planting, dig up the soil, remove rocks and other garden debris and test the pH level. If the soil is too alkaline, amend it with sulfur. Add plenty of organic matter to enrich the soil.
Step 2
Plant the poppies in early spring. Dig a hole that is larger than the poppy's container. Remove it from the container and gently loosen the roots with your fingers. Place the poppy in the hole, add soil to fill in the hole and tamp down gently to remove air bubbles. Water gently to settle the soil. Space the poppies 18 to 24 inches apart.
Step 3
Water the poppies regularly, but do not over water; waterlogged plants can suffer from crown rot. However, do not let the soil dry out between waterings. Give them a light application of general fertilizer in the spring. Downy mildew can be a problem, especially in locations with high humidity. Spray with a fungicide at the first sign of mildew.
Step 4
Watch for the Himalayan blue poppies to bloom beginning in early summer and continuing through to early fall. Unless you want the seed to ripen, remove spent flower stems. After all growth dies down, cut the poppies to ground level. Use a plant marker to indicate the location of the poppies.
Step 5
Propagate the poppies from fresh ripe seed in the fall or spring. After the seeds have sprouted, thin the seedlings to 18 to 24 inches apart. Water well initially, but back off so as not to over water.
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文章
Miss Chen
2018年09月08日
For a colorful, showy display of flowers, few plants out-perform the peony (Paeonia spp.), a perennial that grows in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 3 through 8, with some variation among the different varieties. Although most peonies are attractive even when not in bloom, it can be discouraging when a plant fails to bloom or produces only a few flowers. Giving a peony some extra care or making a few adjustments can help prevent or correct this problem.
Plant Maturity and Depth
A peony might not bloom simply because it's too immature; in that case, all you need to do is wait a while to see flowers. If you've recently planted a new, nursery-grown peony, it may take several years to reach a size and maturity that can support flowering. It could take even longer to see flowers -- up to four or five years -- if you've grown the plant from seed. If you're dividing a larger plant to make new plants, the number of dormant buds, or "eyes," on each new division can also influence the length of time before flowers appear. To speed flowering by these new plants, make large divisions with at least three to five eyes each. Planting peonies too deeply can also inhibit flowering, so position new plants or divisions so buds are no more than 1 or 2 inches below the soil surface.
Correct Fertilizer
Although peonies benefit from rich soil that contains a good supply of nutrients, it's important to feed the plants properly and not use too much nitrogen, which can promote growth of stems and leaves at the expense of flowers. For best results, select a granular, low-nitrogen fertilizer such as 5-10-10, applying it at a rate of 2 to 3 pounds per 100 square feet of planted area. Apply the fertilizer once per season in the spring, when the plant's stems are about 3 inches tall, working it carefully into the ground. Keep fertilizer away from the plant's stems to prevent burning, and don't disturb tender new shoots; water the fertilizer in well.
Sun and Other Issues
Peonies need abundant light to set flower buds, so pick a planting site that gets at least six or more hours of full sun daily; a spot that gets too much shade can result in few or no flowers. If you have a peony that's recently stopped blooming, this could be because other nearby plants have become large and block the peony's access to light. Prune back surrounding plants as needed to give the peony more light, or consider relocating the peony to a brighter spot. Removing leaves and stems as you tidy the garden during the summer can also contribute to poor flowering because this weakens the plant and interferes with its ability to store energy for the next year. Delay cleanup until fall, when the plant's growth has slowed and foliage is wilted and partly dry.
Disease Control
Sometimes you might see flower buds develop on a peony plant that don't enlarge, and they eventually dry up and drop off the plant. This can indicate the presence of a fungal disorder such as blight or leaf blotch that stops the bud from producing a flower. These diseases might also cause black spots on leaves and stems. They are best prevented by keeping foliage as dry as possible, so water only at the plant's base on sunny days, and cut peonies back to the ground in late fall, removing all plant debris that can harbor fungal microorganisms. Wear gloves and clean pruning blades in rubbing alcohol between each cut to prevent spreading disease.
Plant Maturity and Depth
A peony might not bloom simply because it's too immature; in that case, all you need to do is wait a while to see flowers. If you've recently planted a new, nursery-grown peony, it may take several years to reach a size and maturity that can support flowering. It could take even longer to see flowers -- up to four or five years -- if you've grown the plant from seed. If you're dividing a larger plant to make new plants, the number of dormant buds, or "eyes," on each new division can also influence the length of time before flowers appear. To speed flowering by these new plants, make large divisions with at least three to five eyes each. Planting peonies too deeply can also inhibit flowering, so position new plants or divisions so buds are no more than 1 or 2 inches below the soil surface.
Correct Fertilizer
Although peonies benefit from rich soil that contains a good supply of nutrients, it's important to feed the plants properly and not use too much nitrogen, which can promote growth of stems and leaves at the expense of flowers. For best results, select a granular, low-nitrogen fertilizer such as 5-10-10, applying it at a rate of 2 to 3 pounds per 100 square feet of planted area. Apply the fertilizer once per season in the spring, when the plant's stems are about 3 inches tall, working it carefully into the ground. Keep fertilizer away from the plant's stems to prevent burning, and don't disturb tender new shoots; water the fertilizer in well.
Sun and Other Issues
Peonies need abundant light to set flower buds, so pick a planting site that gets at least six or more hours of full sun daily; a spot that gets too much shade can result in few or no flowers. If you have a peony that's recently stopped blooming, this could be because other nearby plants have become large and block the peony's access to light. Prune back surrounding plants as needed to give the peony more light, or consider relocating the peony to a brighter spot. Removing leaves and stems as you tidy the garden during the summer can also contribute to poor flowering because this weakens the plant and interferes with its ability to store energy for the next year. Delay cleanup until fall, when the plant's growth has slowed and foliage is wilted and partly dry.
Disease Control
Sometimes you might see flower buds develop on a peony plant that don't enlarge, and they eventually dry up and drop off the plant. This can indicate the presence of a fungal disorder such as blight or leaf blotch that stops the bud from producing a flower. These diseases might also cause black spots on leaves and stems. They are best prevented by keeping foliage as dry as possible, so water only at the plant's base on sunny days, and cut peonies back to the ground in late fall, removing all plant debris that can harbor fungal microorganisms. Wear gloves and clean pruning blades in rubbing alcohol between each cut to prevent spreading disease.
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文章
Miss Chen
2018年09月08日
The plant commonly called vinca (Catharanthus roseus) grows as a short, upright bush, covered in small pink or magenta flowers. It grows as a perennial in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 10 through 11 but can be treated as a summer annual elsewhere. Vinca's close cousins, greater periwinkle (Vinca major), which grows in USDA zones 7 through 9, and common periwinkle (Vinca minor), which grows in USDA zones 4 through 9, can become invasive, but vinca doesn't usually spread beyond its garden bed.
Care Basics
Vinca flowers best in full sun. Although it can tolerate partial shade, too much shade inhibits flowering and results in sparse foliage. Trailing varieties can spread more than 18 inches wide, creating a sprawling ground cover, but most have a bushy form. Vinca can readily self-seed, even in areas where it usually grows as an annual, so plant it in beds where you plan to continue growing it or remove the seedlings when you see them.
Watering Needs
Drought-tolerant vinca survives even with infrequent watering. Water the soil only during extended dry periods if the plants begin to wilt even at night, otherwise rainfall and water from nearby areas of the yard will provide enough water. Vinca leaves may curl and appear wilted during the day when it's hot and dry, but they don't need additional water if they still unfurl during the cooler nights. Applying a 2-inch layer of mulch over the bare soil surrounding the plants conserves soil moisture and further minimizes the need for watering. Pull mulch back so it doesn't rest against the base of the vinca plants.
Regular Maintenance
Once established, vinca doesn't require much care. If the plant looks sparse, cut back stems to encourage branching and new growth. Wipe the shears with a rubbing alcohol-soaked cloth before making a cut to disinfect them. Vinca also doesn't require deadheading, dropping its blooms naturally after the flower wilts. Light fertilization once a month during the spring and summer growing season helps keep the plants healthy. Water with an all-purpose soluble fertilizer. For example, 1 tablespoon of a 24-8-16 blend mixed with 1 gallon of water provides enough to feed 10 square feet of vinca plants.
Common Problems
Most vinca problems come from too much moisture or improper watering. Stem and root rot, fungal leaf spots and botrytis blight are most common in wet, overwatered beds or from wet foliage. Avoid overhead watering and keep water from splashing onto the leaves to prevent most diseases. Aphids may sometimes feed on the plant, but you can rinse them off with a blast of water from the garden hose. When rinsing off aphids, do so in the morning so the leaves dry before nightfall.
Care Basics
Vinca flowers best in full sun. Although it can tolerate partial shade, too much shade inhibits flowering and results in sparse foliage. Trailing varieties can spread more than 18 inches wide, creating a sprawling ground cover, but most have a bushy form. Vinca can readily self-seed, even in areas where it usually grows as an annual, so plant it in beds where you plan to continue growing it or remove the seedlings when you see them.
Watering Needs
Drought-tolerant vinca survives even with infrequent watering. Water the soil only during extended dry periods if the plants begin to wilt even at night, otherwise rainfall and water from nearby areas of the yard will provide enough water. Vinca leaves may curl and appear wilted during the day when it's hot and dry, but they don't need additional water if they still unfurl during the cooler nights. Applying a 2-inch layer of mulch over the bare soil surrounding the plants conserves soil moisture and further minimizes the need for watering. Pull mulch back so it doesn't rest against the base of the vinca plants.
Regular Maintenance
Once established, vinca doesn't require much care. If the plant looks sparse, cut back stems to encourage branching and new growth. Wipe the shears with a rubbing alcohol-soaked cloth before making a cut to disinfect them. Vinca also doesn't require deadheading, dropping its blooms naturally after the flower wilts. Light fertilization once a month during the spring and summer growing season helps keep the plants healthy. Water with an all-purpose soluble fertilizer. For example, 1 tablespoon of a 24-8-16 blend mixed with 1 gallon of water provides enough to feed 10 square feet of vinca plants.
Common Problems
Most vinca problems come from too much moisture or improper watering. Stem and root rot, fungal leaf spots and botrytis blight are most common in wet, overwatered beds or from wet foliage. Avoid overhead watering and keep water from splashing onto the leaves to prevent most diseases. Aphids may sometimes feed on the plant, but you can rinse them off with a blast of water from the garden hose. When rinsing off aphids, do so in the morning so the leaves dry before nightfall.
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文章
Miss Chen
2018年09月08日
Adenium obesum, commonly called desert rose, stands out among other desert plants with its trumpet-shaped flowers and gray, elephantine trunk. It adds a splash of color and visual interest to low-water gardens where few other flowering shrubs thrive. Desert rose requires minimal upkeep and care. The plant must be grown under the right conditions and provided with care early on so it thrives.
Climate and Temperature
Desert rose comes from the arid climates of eastern Africa and the Arabian peninsula. As a result, it tolerates extreme heat well and is intolerant of cold weather. Desert rose performs best in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 10a through 12, where temperatures stay reliably above 33 degrees Fahrenheit. In warmer climates, desert rose blooms and retains its leathery, dark green foliage year-round, but it may enter dormancy if nighttime temperatures dip below 40 F or if daytime temperatures stay below 64 F. Cover outdoor plants if cold weather if forecast and move potted desert roses indoors, if possible.
Sunlight and Soil
Full sun and fast-draining soil are key to successfully growing a desert rose. An unshaded south-facing bed with at least 4 square feet of space is best for garden growing, although the soil must be porous with a moderate nutrient content. Grow desert rose in a container in marginal areas where winter cold snaps are common. Repot the plant every two years into a shallow, slightly larger pot to force vertical growth and show off the plant's unusual swollen trunk. Use a mixture of standard potting soil amended with one-third coarse sand to strike the right balance between nutrient content and drainage. Use a pot with drainage holes.
Seasonal Watering
The watering needs of a desert rose vary significantly throughout the year. Water weekly during the late spring and summer, providing roughly 1 inch of water each time. Increase water by one-half during especially hot or windy weather to prevent dehydration, but always allow the soil to dry out completely between waterings to prevent root rot. The plant needs little to no supplemental water during autumn and winter, especially in years with normal rainfall. Only provide water during the colder months if no rain falls for longer than two weeks. For a pot-grown desert rose, provide just enough water during the winter to keep it from shriveling.
Nutrient Needs
The desert rose is an efficient feeder and it doesn't generally need fertilizer. Its nutrient needs vary according to age and growing conditions. Most desert rose plants grow quickly during their first three to five years and will quickly exhaust the nutrient supply of their soil if it isn't supplemented. A pot-grown desert rose may have a similar issue, although it is ongoing throughout its life. Dissolve 1/4 teaspoon of 15-15-15 or 7-9-5 ratio fertilizer in 1 gallon of water. Water the plant with the mixture every two weeks. Apply the fertilizer solution only during the spring and summer, and always apply it to moist soil to prevent root burn.
Toxic Sap
Desert rose has a few drawbacks. The most significant consideration to make before growing it in your garden is the potential danger of the toxic sap. Desert rose exudes a watery, slightly sticky sap from its leaves, stems and flowers when it is pruned or damaged. The sap contains glycosides that can cause an irregular heartbeat or possibly kill someone who eats parts of the plant. People and pets are both affected by the toxic elements in desert rose sap, so don't grow the plant where curious children or pets play.
Climate and Temperature
Desert rose comes from the arid climates of eastern Africa and the Arabian peninsula. As a result, it tolerates extreme heat well and is intolerant of cold weather. Desert rose performs best in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 10a through 12, where temperatures stay reliably above 33 degrees Fahrenheit. In warmer climates, desert rose blooms and retains its leathery, dark green foliage year-round, but it may enter dormancy if nighttime temperatures dip below 40 F or if daytime temperatures stay below 64 F. Cover outdoor plants if cold weather if forecast and move potted desert roses indoors, if possible.
Sunlight and Soil
Full sun and fast-draining soil are key to successfully growing a desert rose. An unshaded south-facing bed with at least 4 square feet of space is best for garden growing, although the soil must be porous with a moderate nutrient content. Grow desert rose in a container in marginal areas where winter cold snaps are common. Repot the plant every two years into a shallow, slightly larger pot to force vertical growth and show off the plant's unusual swollen trunk. Use a mixture of standard potting soil amended with one-third coarse sand to strike the right balance between nutrient content and drainage. Use a pot with drainage holes.
Seasonal Watering
The watering needs of a desert rose vary significantly throughout the year. Water weekly during the late spring and summer, providing roughly 1 inch of water each time. Increase water by one-half during especially hot or windy weather to prevent dehydration, but always allow the soil to dry out completely between waterings to prevent root rot. The plant needs little to no supplemental water during autumn and winter, especially in years with normal rainfall. Only provide water during the colder months if no rain falls for longer than two weeks. For a pot-grown desert rose, provide just enough water during the winter to keep it from shriveling.
Nutrient Needs
The desert rose is an efficient feeder and it doesn't generally need fertilizer. Its nutrient needs vary according to age and growing conditions. Most desert rose plants grow quickly during their first three to five years and will quickly exhaust the nutrient supply of their soil if it isn't supplemented. A pot-grown desert rose may have a similar issue, although it is ongoing throughout its life. Dissolve 1/4 teaspoon of 15-15-15 or 7-9-5 ratio fertilizer in 1 gallon of water. Water the plant with the mixture every two weeks. Apply the fertilizer solution only during the spring and summer, and always apply it to moist soil to prevent root burn.
Toxic Sap
Desert rose has a few drawbacks. The most significant consideration to make before growing it in your garden is the potential danger of the toxic sap. Desert rose exudes a watery, slightly sticky sap from its leaves, stems and flowers when it is pruned or damaged. The sap contains glycosides that can cause an irregular heartbeat or possibly kill someone who eats parts of the plant. People and pets are both affected by the toxic elements in desert rose sap, so don't grow the plant where curious children or pets play.
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文章
Miss Chen
2018年09月08日
Large flowers in bright, bold colors make gerbera daisy (Gerbera jamesonii) a show-stopper in garden displays. Also called Barberton daisy, African daisy and Transvaal daisy, gerbera daisy is perennial outdoors in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 9 through 11 but is often grown as an annual. It also grows well indoors. A gerbera daisy plant performs best in well-drained soil that is rich in organic matter and in a full-sun site, but it needs afternoon shade in a hot climate.
Feeding and Watering an Outdoor Plant
An outdoor gerbera daisy needs regular feeding to flower well, but it should be watered infrequently to avoid crown rot. Feed your gerbera daisy with a water-soluble, 24-8-16 fertilizer diluted at a rate of 1 tablespoon per 1 gallon of water, which feeds 10 square feet of plants. Apply the solution every two weeks while the gerbera daisy flowers, or dilute and apply the fertilizer according to the instructions on its label. In wet conditions, gerbera daisy suffers from crown rot, which affects its base. Help your plant avoid that disease by watering your gerbera daisy when its soil is dry to a depth of 1 inch. If you water and feed the plant at the same time, then apply the fertilizer first. Don't apply only fertilizer if the ground is dry. Feed and water the gerbera at the plant's base, and never from above, to help avoid leaf diseases.
Deadheading and Dividing
Deadheading encourages a gerbera daisy plant to produce more flowers, and dividing an outdoor plant helps keep it healthy. Deadheading, which is removing flowers as they fade, improves the plant's appearance and encourages a long blooming period. Wipe pruning shear blades with rubbing alcohol, and use the tool to prune fading flowers at their stem bases. Sterilizing the pruning shears again is necessary after you finish pruning. If you grow your outdoor gerbera daisy as a perennial, lift and divide it in the spring of the plant's third year. Do so by pushing a garden fork into the soil about 4 inches from the plant's base, and gently lever the plant out of its soil. Pull the plant's base into three or four equal sections, and plant the sections 1 foot apart and about 1/2 inch higher than the original growing depth.
Controlling Pests and Diseases
Aphids, mites, thrips and whiteflies attack gerbera daisy, and the plant also suffers from leaf spots, rots and viruses. Aphids are small insects that cluster at shoot tips and on the undersides of leaves. Mites look like tiny moving dots, and thrips are tiny, very slim insects. Whiteflies are small, white, flying insects. Favorable growing conditions and good-quality care are the gerbera daisy's best defenses against pests and diseases, and you also can control minor problems by pinching off affected shoots. On a cloudy day, spray an outdoor gerbera daisy heavily infested with pests with a ready-to-use insecticidal soap containing 1 percent potassium salts of fatty acids. This spray also can be used on an indoor gerbera daisy. Spray the plant once each week as needed, covering all its foliage but avoiding its flowers. Dig up an outdoor gerbera daisy heavily infested with leaf spots, rots or viruses, and put it in the trash.
Tending an Indoor Plant
Gerbera daisy can grow well as an indoor plant for two to three years. Grow your gerbera daisy in a peat moss-based potting compost in a container with bottom drainage holes and a drip tray. Place the container in a bright spot that receives no more than one to two hours of direct sunlight each day, and water the plant when its potting compost is dry to a depth of 1 1/2 inches. Allow that material to drain thoroughly before returning the container to its drip tray. Keep the plant's location at 40 to 70 degrees Fahrenheit while the plant is in flower, and feed the gerbera daisy every two weeks with a liquid 24-8-16 fertilizer diluted at a rate of 1/2 teaspoon per 1 gallon of water. You can replace water with the fertilizer solution if the plant needs watering. Pour the solution slowly onto the potting compost surface until it runs out of the plant container's drainage holes, and allow the plant to drain thoroughly before putting the container back on its drip tray.
Feeding and Watering an Outdoor Plant
An outdoor gerbera daisy needs regular feeding to flower well, but it should be watered infrequently to avoid crown rot. Feed your gerbera daisy with a water-soluble, 24-8-16 fertilizer diluted at a rate of 1 tablespoon per 1 gallon of water, which feeds 10 square feet of plants. Apply the solution every two weeks while the gerbera daisy flowers, or dilute and apply the fertilizer according to the instructions on its label. In wet conditions, gerbera daisy suffers from crown rot, which affects its base. Help your plant avoid that disease by watering your gerbera daisy when its soil is dry to a depth of 1 inch. If you water and feed the plant at the same time, then apply the fertilizer first. Don't apply only fertilizer if the ground is dry. Feed and water the gerbera at the plant's base, and never from above, to help avoid leaf diseases.
Deadheading and Dividing
Deadheading encourages a gerbera daisy plant to produce more flowers, and dividing an outdoor plant helps keep it healthy. Deadheading, which is removing flowers as they fade, improves the plant's appearance and encourages a long blooming period. Wipe pruning shear blades with rubbing alcohol, and use the tool to prune fading flowers at their stem bases. Sterilizing the pruning shears again is necessary after you finish pruning. If you grow your outdoor gerbera daisy as a perennial, lift and divide it in the spring of the plant's third year. Do so by pushing a garden fork into the soil about 4 inches from the plant's base, and gently lever the plant out of its soil. Pull the plant's base into three or four equal sections, and plant the sections 1 foot apart and about 1/2 inch higher than the original growing depth.
Controlling Pests and Diseases
Aphids, mites, thrips and whiteflies attack gerbera daisy, and the plant also suffers from leaf spots, rots and viruses. Aphids are small insects that cluster at shoot tips and on the undersides of leaves. Mites look like tiny moving dots, and thrips are tiny, very slim insects. Whiteflies are small, white, flying insects. Favorable growing conditions and good-quality care are the gerbera daisy's best defenses against pests and diseases, and you also can control minor problems by pinching off affected shoots. On a cloudy day, spray an outdoor gerbera daisy heavily infested with pests with a ready-to-use insecticidal soap containing 1 percent potassium salts of fatty acids. This spray also can be used on an indoor gerbera daisy. Spray the plant once each week as needed, covering all its foliage but avoiding its flowers. Dig up an outdoor gerbera daisy heavily infested with leaf spots, rots or viruses, and put it in the trash.
Tending an Indoor Plant
Gerbera daisy can grow well as an indoor plant for two to three years. Grow your gerbera daisy in a peat moss-based potting compost in a container with bottom drainage holes and a drip tray. Place the container in a bright spot that receives no more than one to two hours of direct sunlight each day, and water the plant when its potting compost is dry to a depth of 1 1/2 inches. Allow that material to drain thoroughly before returning the container to its drip tray. Keep the plant's location at 40 to 70 degrees Fahrenheit while the plant is in flower, and feed the gerbera daisy every two weeks with a liquid 24-8-16 fertilizer diluted at a rate of 1/2 teaspoon per 1 gallon of water. You can replace water with the fertilizer solution if the plant needs watering. Pour the solution slowly onto the potting compost surface until it runs out of the plant container's drainage holes, and allow the plant to drain thoroughly before putting the container back on its drip tray.
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