文章
Miss Chen
2018年08月29日
Purslane, scientific name Portulaca oleracea, is an annual, edible succulent plant. It is also called Pusley, Verdolaga, Pigweed, and Hogweed.
Description
Purslane has a thick reddish stem and succulent, rounded leaves that grow in clusters. Its flowers are small and yellow, with five petals, and they bloom according to rainfall or moisture. It grows low to the ground and tends to spread.
Origin
Purslane originated in North Africa, the Middle East, and India. It probably spread to North America and elsewhere prior to the mid-1400s.
Cultivation
Purslane is an easy plant to grow, even in an arid climate. As a succulent, it is heat- and drought-tolerant, and a very hardy plant. In fact, it is often considered a weed in North America. It tends to sprawl across the ground, and will need to be cut back to be maintained.
Check with regulations in your area before planting purslane; in some regions it is considered an invasive weed.
Culinary Uses
All parts of Purslane are edible: leaves, flowers, and stem. It has a slightly sweet and sour flavor and a chewy texture. It is commonly eaten fresh, cooked, or in soups and stews.
Interesting Facts
Purslane is sometimes known as the Dolly Parton flower because of when it blooms--from 9 a.m. to 5 p.m.
Purslane is a good source of Omega-3 fatty acids and Vitamins A and C.
It is considered a edible plant in Mexican, Russian, and Mediterranean cultures, among others.
Description
Purslane has a thick reddish stem and succulent, rounded leaves that grow in clusters. Its flowers are small and yellow, with five petals, and they bloom according to rainfall or moisture. It grows low to the ground and tends to spread.
Origin
Purslane originated in North Africa, the Middle East, and India. It probably spread to North America and elsewhere prior to the mid-1400s.
Cultivation
Purslane is an easy plant to grow, even in an arid climate. As a succulent, it is heat- and drought-tolerant, and a very hardy plant. In fact, it is often considered a weed in North America. It tends to sprawl across the ground, and will need to be cut back to be maintained.
Check with regulations in your area before planting purslane; in some regions it is considered an invasive weed.
Culinary Uses
All parts of Purslane are edible: leaves, flowers, and stem. It has a slightly sweet and sour flavor and a chewy texture. It is commonly eaten fresh, cooked, or in soups and stews.
Interesting Facts
Purslane is sometimes known as the Dolly Parton flower because of when it blooms--from 9 a.m. to 5 p.m.
Purslane is a good source of Omega-3 fatty acids and Vitamins A and C.
It is considered a edible plant in Mexican, Russian, and Mediterranean cultures, among others.
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文章
Miss Chen
2018年08月29日
Fragrant lavender (Lavandula angustifolia) supplies year-round garden interest, with aromatic flowers in summer and gray-green evergreen foliage. The small shrubs grow in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 5 through 9, where they thrive with very little maintenance beyond pruning. The right time and method for pruning depends on the age of the plant and the type of trim it needs.
Spring Pruning
New plants need to be pruned in spring when new green growth has appeared. Spring pruning prevents flowering but encourages branching, allowing the new lavender to develop strong roots and a full framework of branches. Before pruning, wipe the shears with a cloth soaked in isopropyl alcohol to disinfect them, and then disinfect the shears each time you begin pruning a new plant. Cut back the stem tips by 2 to 3 inches, lightly shaping to maintain an even, rounded shape.
Deadheading and Harvest
Lavender may flower a second time if you prune off the old flowers after the first flush of summer blooms. Prune off the flowers a second time in late summer if the plant flowers again. Deadhead after the flowers open and begin to wilt if you want lavender blooms in the garden. For harvesting and drying, cut off the flowers when only two or three buds on the flower spikes have opened. Trim out the spikes with disinfected shears, cutting the stem so the cut end is inside the main bush and not visible. For harvesting, tie the harvested spikes together in bundles and hang them in a dark, dry area until the buds are completely dry.
Summer Shaping
Main pruning occurs in summer, after the flower harvest. Cut back up to one-third of the leafy section of the stems, shaping the lavender into an evenly rounded mound as you prune. Avoid cutting into the woody stem bases. Lavender will not regrow from the lower stem sections, so cutting into wood will leave bare spots in the bush and weaken the lavender. Although summer, after the plant flowers, is the best time to prune, you can prune into late summer or early fall. However, avoid pruning in late fall because frost can damage the new growth encouraged by pruning.
Rejuvenating Woody Plants
Woody, overgrown lavender plants develop sparse foliage and may fall open, or split. In most cases replacement is the best option, but you may be able to rejuvenate the lavender with careful pruning. Prune for rejuvenation in spring when new growth begins showing on the stems. Cut back all the green stems to within 1 inch of the woody portion at the base, but don't remove the green completely. The lavender may produce fuller growth in response.
Spring Pruning
New plants need to be pruned in spring when new green growth has appeared. Spring pruning prevents flowering but encourages branching, allowing the new lavender to develop strong roots and a full framework of branches. Before pruning, wipe the shears with a cloth soaked in isopropyl alcohol to disinfect them, and then disinfect the shears each time you begin pruning a new plant. Cut back the stem tips by 2 to 3 inches, lightly shaping to maintain an even, rounded shape.
Deadheading and Harvest
Lavender may flower a second time if you prune off the old flowers after the first flush of summer blooms. Prune off the flowers a second time in late summer if the plant flowers again. Deadhead after the flowers open and begin to wilt if you want lavender blooms in the garden. For harvesting and drying, cut off the flowers when only two or three buds on the flower spikes have opened. Trim out the spikes with disinfected shears, cutting the stem so the cut end is inside the main bush and not visible. For harvesting, tie the harvested spikes together in bundles and hang them in a dark, dry area until the buds are completely dry.
Summer Shaping
Main pruning occurs in summer, after the flower harvest. Cut back up to one-third of the leafy section of the stems, shaping the lavender into an evenly rounded mound as you prune. Avoid cutting into the woody stem bases. Lavender will not regrow from the lower stem sections, so cutting into wood will leave bare spots in the bush and weaken the lavender. Although summer, after the plant flowers, is the best time to prune, you can prune into late summer or early fall. However, avoid pruning in late fall because frost can damage the new growth encouraged by pruning.
Rejuvenating Woody Plants
Woody, overgrown lavender plants develop sparse foliage and may fall open, or split. In most cases replacement is the best option, but you may be able to rejuvenate the lavender with careful pruning. Prune for rejuvenation in spring when new growth begins showing on the stems. Cut back all the green stems to within 1 inch of the woody portion at the base, but don't remove the green completely. The lavender may produce fuller growth in response.
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文章
Miss Chen
2018年08月29日
If you're growing a weigela (Weigela spp.) or you're thinking of planting one, you probably know that it's an especially easy-to-grow shrub. A tough plant that has masses of colorful flowers in late spring or early summer, a weigela is cold-tolerant and grows in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 4 through 9, depending on the variety. Whatever type of weigela you grow, it's a good idea to give it a bit of extra care as winter approaches and at winters end to help keep it flourishing.
Fall Preparation
Although a weigela is a deciduous plant that drops its leaves in fall, its roots continue functioning for a while and don't become dormant as quickly as the top growth. Because of this, it's important to support good root growth during fall, especially if your weigela is newly planted. Continue watering the shrub during fall, giving it extra water whenever the top 1 to 2 inches of its soil feel dry to the touch. Moist soil also tends to stay warm longer than dry soil, so watering through fall helps keep the roots warm.
Adding a 6- or 8-inch layer of organic mulch, such as straw or shredded bark, in fall helps conserve soil moisture and keeps roots growing as long as possible. In cold-winter areas, mulch also protects the plant from freeze-thaw cycles that cause the ground to expand and contract. These cycles can heave roots out of the ground and damage them.
Winter Sun Damage
Because a weigela has no leaves in winter, its stems are susceptible to a problem called sun scald, which happens when sun heats up the bark on bright but cold days, stimulating activity in the stem that can be followed by tissue damage when the sun goes down and the stem is chilled. This is especially likely in a young or recently transplanted shrub, or in one planted where its south-facing side is unprotected. If sun scald develops, you'll see dried or cracked bark, or areas on a stem that are sunken or shriveled.
You can help prevent sun scald by wrapping the larger stems on a weigela with a commercial tree wrap or a light-colored plastic tree guard. If your weigela is bushy and has only thin stems that aren't easily wrapped, provide some shade on the south-facing side by stapling a sheet of burlap to two or three stakes driven into the ground near the south-facing side of the shrub.
At Winter's End
Although weigela is a hardy plant, it's prone to winter dieback, especially in areas with harsh winters. Because of this, it's a good idea to examine the plant at the end of winter and prune off any dead stems.
Double-check stems that look dead by scratching the bark with a fingernail. If tissue under the bark is greenish white, the stem is healthy, but dry tissue indicates the stem has died back.
Remove dead stems by cutting into healthy tissue behind the damaged part, using sharp shears or a pruning knife that you wipe with rubbing alcohol between each cut to prevent spreading disease.
You can also remove any broken or damaged branches at the end of winter, but a weigela has its heaviest flowering in spring on the previous season's growth, so it's best you don't prune heavily in winter to preserve flower buds. If your shrub is older and overgrown, you can stimulate its growth by pruning off a few large branches at the end of winter. Cut these off near the shrub's base to let light into its interior so new shoots can form.
Fall Preparation
Although a weigela is a deciduous plant that drops its leaves in fall, its roots continue functioning for a while and don't become dormant as quickly as the top growth. Because of this, it's important to support good root growth during fall, especially if your weigela is newly planted. Continue watering the shrub during fall, giving it extra water whenever the top 1 to 2 inches of its soil feel dry to the touch. Moist soil also tends to stay warm longer than dry soil, so watering through fall helps keep the roots warm.
Adding a 6- or 8-inch layer of organic mulch, such as straw or shredded bark, in fall helps conserve soil moisture and keeps roots growing as long as possible. In cold-winter areas, mulch also protects the plant from freeze-thaw cycles that cause the ground to expand and contract. These cycles can heave roots out of the ground and damage them.
Winter Sun Damage
Because a weigela has no leaves in winter, its stems are susceptible to a problem called sun scald, which happens when sun heats up the bark on bright but cold days, stimulating activity in the stem that can be followed by tissue damage when the sun goes down and the stem is chilled. This is especially likely in a young or recently transplanted shrub, or in one planted where its south-facing side is unprotected. If sun scald develops, you'll see dried or cracked bark, or areas on a stem that are sunken or shriveled.
You can help prevent sun scald by wrapping the larger stems on a weigela with a commercial tree wrap or a light-colored plastic tree guard. If your weigela is bushy and has only thin stems that aren't easily wrapped, provide some shade on the south-facing side by stapling a sheet of burlap to two or three stakes driven into the ground near the south-facing side of the shrub.
At Winter's End
Although weigela is a hardy plant, it's prone to winter dieback, especially in areas with harsh winters. Because of this, it's a good idea to examine the plant at the end of winter and prune off any dead stems.
Double-check stems that look dead by scratching the bark with a fingernail. If tissue under the bark is greenish white, the stem is healthy, but dry tissue indicates the stem has died back.
Remove dead stems by cutting into healthy tissue behind the damaged part, using sharp shears or a pruning knife that you wipe with rubbing alcohol between each cut to prevent spreading disease.
You can also remove any broken or damaged branches at the end of winter, but a weigela has its heaviest flowering in spring on the previous season's growth, so it's best you don't prune heavily in winter to preserve flower buds. If your shrub is older and overgrown, you can stimulate its growth by pruning off a few large branches at the end of winter. Cut these off near the shrub's base to let light into its interior so new shoots can form.
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文章
Miss Chen
2018年08月28日
Large, silken-textured flowers of many colors grace peony (Paeonia spp.) bushes during the spring. Fall care helps spring blooms, but how you should care for peonies in the fall depends on what type of peony you're growing. Most common is the non-woody herbaceous peony (Paeonia lactiflora), hardy in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 3 through 8. It dies back in fall and renews its growth from underground tubers each spring. Tree peony (Paeonia suffruticosa), growing in USDA zones 4 through 8, forms a deciduous woody shrub that remains in the garden year-round.
Cutting Back Foliage
If you have herbaceous peonies, remove all the old stems in late fall after the first frost turns the foliage yellow. Before cutting the stems, dip clean, sharp pruner blades in rubbing alcohol to lessen the chance of spreading disease. Discard all the cut foliage to prevent a fungal disease called botrytis blight or gray mold, which affects peonies and can survive the winter months in composted old stems.
Providing Winter Protection
Protect peonies from the winter cold, especially in colder areas of their hardiness zones. In late fall, give herbaceous perennials a mulch layer 2 to 3 inches thick, using an organic material such as shredded bark or straw. You can wait until after the ground freezes to apply mulch. For tree peonies in colder areas, such as zones 4 and 5, wrap the bush with burlap in late fall to provide protection against winds as well as cold temperatures.
Pruning Shrubs
Although tree peonies usually don't need much pruning, older bushes may become leggy. To renew the growth, prune the oldest tree peony branches back to the base in fall after the leaves drop. Clean the pruners with rubbing alcohol before pruning. However, if your tree peony is grafted rather than growing on its own roots, it's best not to do renewal pruning. Instead, moderately cut back some of the lower branches to fill out the base of the bush.
Fertilizing Peonies
If you want to use an organic fertilizer such as aged compost or aged manure, in late fall add a 2-inch-thick layer of either material on top of the soil around established peony bushes. If you use inorganic fertilizers, wait until spring.
Moving Plants
If you need to relocate either herbaceous or tree peonies, fall is the best time. Carefully dig around and then under the roots, taking care not to damage the fleshy tubers. Lever the peony out of the ground, disturbing the root mass as little as possible. Transplant it in the new location, which should be in sun with well-draining, rich soil. Keep the plant at its original soil level, and water it well.
Dividing Plants
Large, established herbaceous peonies can be divided in the fall to renew growth or to make new plants, although clumps can grow in place for 40 or 50 years without division. To divide a plant, cut back the foliage, and then carefully dig up the peony and shake or wash the dirt away from the root system. Use a sharp knife cleaned with rubbing alcohol and cut the clump into divisions, each holding three to five eyes and several roots. Eyes are the buds on top of the crown that grow into new stems. Replant each piece in its new garden location, placing the buds 1 to 2 inches below the soil surface. Water the divisions thoroughly.
Cutting Back Foliage
If you have herbaceous peonies, remove all the old stems in late fall after the first frost turns the foliage yellow. Before cutting the stems, dip clean, sharp pruner blades in rubbing alcohol to lessen the chance of spreading disease. Discard all the cut foliage to prevent a fungal disease called botrytis blight or gray mold, which affects peonies and can survive the winter months in composted old stems.
Providing Winter Protection
Protect peonies from the winter cold, especially in colder areas of their hardiness zones. In late fall, give herbaceous perennials a mulch layer 2 to 3 inches thick, using an organic material such as shredded bark or straw. You can wait until after the ground freezes to apply mulch. For tree peonies in colder areas, such as zones 4 and 5, wrap the bush with burlap in late fall to provide protection against winds as well as cold temperatures.
Pruning Shrubs
Although tree peonies usually don't need much pruning, older bushes may become leggy. To renew the growth, prune the oldest tree peony branches back to the base in fall after the leaves drop. Clean the pruners with rubbing alcohol before pruning. However, if your tree peony is grafted rather than growing on its own roots, it's best not to do renewal pruning. Instead, moderately cut back some of the lower branches to fill out the base of the bush.
Fertilizing Peonies
If you want to use an organic fertilizer such as aged compost or aged manure, in late fall add a 2-inch-thick layer of either material on top of the soil around established peony bushes. If you use inorganic fertilizers, wait until spring.
Moving Plants
If you need to relocate either herbaceous or tree peonies, fall is the best time. Carefully dig around and then under the roots, taking care not to damage the fleshy tubers. Lever the peony out of the ground, disturbing the root mass as little as possible. Transplant it in the new location, which should be in sun with well-draining, rich soil. Keep the plant at its original soil level, and water it well.
Dividing Plants
Large, established herbaceous peonies can be divided in the fall to renew growth or to make new plants, although clumps can grow in place for 40 or 50 years without division. To divide a plant, cut back the foliage, and then carefully dig up the peony and shake or wash the dirt away from the root system. Use a sharp knife cleaned with rubbing alcohol and cut the clump into divisions, each holding three to five eyes and several roots. Eyes are the buds on top of the crown that grow into new stems. Replant each piece in its new garden location, placing the buds 1 to 2 inches below the soil surface. Water the divisions thoroughly.
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文章
Miss Chen
2018年08月27日
Fill patio planters and pots with hydrangeas (Hydrangea spp.) in spring for a summer full of flowers. Hydrangeas grow in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 3 through 9 depending on the species, and they range in size from 3 to 9 feet tall. Two varieties that grow well in containers are big leaf hydrangea (Hydrangea macrophylla), hardy in USDA zones 5 through 9, and mountain hydrangea (Hydrangea serrata), hardy in USDA zones 6 through 9. While spring is the best time to plant, you can pot up hydrangeas anytime through summer.
The Right Planter
When selecting a planter for hydrangeas, consider both aesthetics and functionality. You can choose the material of the planter based on aesthetics, such as wood, colored plastic, terracotta or glazed ceramic, but it must have drainage holes. Terracotta and wood dry out more rapidly, so if watering is an issue in your area, consider plastic or glazed ceramic. Some new pots come with a plug in the bottom covering the drainage hole. Make sure to pop it out before planting hydrangeas.
Look for a planter or pot 2 to 4 inches bigger in diameter than the nursery pot or planter the hydrangea is in.
Disinfecting Pots and Planters
Clean and disinfect both new and old planters before planting.
Dump out old dirt and give the pot a scrub with detergent and water to remove any soil particles.
Fill a bucket or trough -- make sure its large enough to submerge the planter -- with a 9-to-1 water-to-bleach solution.
Soak the old planters for 10 to 15 minutes.
Remove the planter and wash it with soapy water, then rinse.
Allow the pot to air-dry before potting up your new hydrangeas.
Large planters are difficult to soak because it's not always easy to find something large enough for full submersion. An alternative method is to seal the drain holes temporarily -- try duct tape -- then fill the container up to the top with the bleach solution. Allow it to sit in the pot for 10 minutes, then drain, remove the tape, wash, rinse and allow to dry.
Acidic Potting Blend
Hydrangeas like acidic potting soil. Use peat moss to increase the acidity of regular potting soil. Use equal parts of each, and blend them thoroughly before planting. If the peat moss is dry, soak it in a bucket of water overnight, then drain out the excess water before mixing it with potting soil.
Scoop two to three handfuls of potting medium into the bottom of the container to form a base for the root ball.
Potting Up
Gently wiggle the hydrangea out of the nursery pot, handling it by the roots, and set it on top of the peat moss and potting soil blend. Add or take out material from the bottom of the pot until the top of the root ball is 3 inches below the edge of the pot. Fill in around the roots with additional damp peat moss, bringing the level up to the base of the stalks.
Place potted hydrangeas in full morning sun with light afternoon shade. For an indoor plant, set it in a room with bright morning light but no direct afternoon sun.
Water and Fertilizer
Water potted hydrangeas immediately after planting, then each time the potting mix starts to dry out 1 inch deep. Soak the potting mix until a little extra leaks out the drainage hole in the bottom. That way you know the water penetrated through to the bottom.
Fertilize right after planting, then every two weeks, with a complete water-soluble fertilizer. Dilute 3/4 tablespoon in 1 1/2 gallons of water and use it, along with additional water if necessary, to water the potting soil of outdoor plants.
Repot in Spring
Repot hydrangeas in early spring before new growth starts using a blend of equal parts peat moss and potting soil. Gently tease the root ball out of the container and brush of excess dirt to expose the outer roots. Check for rot or mushy spots and pull apart roots that circle the root ball. Repot in the same planter, or go up a pot size if the root ball is crowded in the old planter.
The Right Planter
When selecting a planter for hydrangeas, consider both aesthetics and functionality. You can choose the material of the planter based on aesthetics, such as wood, colored plastic, terracotta or glazed ceramic, but it must have drainage holes. Terracotta and wood dry out more rapidly, so if watering is an issue in your area, consider plastic or glazed ceramic. Some new pots come with a plug in the bottom covering the drainage hole. Make sure to pop it out before planting hydrangeas.
Look for a planter or pot 2 to 4 inches bigger in diameter than the nursery pot or planter the hydrangea is in.
Disinfecting Pots and Planters
Clean and disinfect both new and old planters before planting.
Dump out old dirt and give the pot a scrub with detergent and water to remove any soil particles.
Fill a bucket or trough -- make sure its large enough to submerge the planter -- with a 9-to-1 water-to-bleach solution.
Soak the old planters for 10 to 15 minutes.
Remove the planter and wash it with soapy water, then rinse.
Allow the pot to air-dry before potting up your new hydrangeas.
Large planters are difficult to soak because it's not always easy to find something large enough for full submersion. An alternative method is to seal the drain holes temporarily -- try duct tape -- then fill the container up to the top with the bleach solution. Allow it to sit in the pot for 10 minutes, then drain, remove the tape, wash, rinse and allow to dry.
Acidic Potting Blend
Hydrangeas like acidic potting soil. Use peat moss to increase the acidity of regular potting soil. Use equal parts of each, and blend them thoroughly before planting. If the peat moss is dry, soak it in a bucket of water overnight, then drain out the excess water before mixing it with potting soil.
Scoop two to three handfuls of potting medium into the bottom of the container to form a base for the root ball.
Potting Up
Gently wiggle the hydrangea out of the nursery pot, handling it by the roots, and set it on top of the peat moss and potting soil blend. Add or take out material from the bottom of the pot until the top of the root ball is 3 inches below the edge of the pot. Fill in around the roots with additional damp peat moss, bringing the level up to the base of the stalks.
Place potted hydrangeas in full morning sun with light afternoon shade. For an indoor plant, set it in a room with bright morning light but no direct afternoon sun.
Water and Fertilizer
Water potted hydrangeas immediately after planting, then each time the potting mix starts to dry out 1 inch deep. Soak the potting mix until a little extra leaks out the drainage hole in the bottom. That way you know the water penetrated through to the bottom.
Fertilize right after planting, then every two weeks, with a complete water-soluble fertilizer. Dilute 3/4 tablespoon in 1 1/2 gallons of water and use it, along with additional water if necessary, to water the potting soil of outdoor plants.
Repot in Spring
Repot hydrangeas in early spring before new growth starts using a blend of equal parts peat moss and potting soil. Gently tease the root ball out of the container and brush of excess dirt to expose the outer roots. Check for rot or mushy spots and pull apart roots that circle the root ball. Repot in the same planter, or go up a pot size if the root ball is crowded in the old planter.
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文章
Miss Chen
2018年08月27日
Featuring clouds of tiny light blue flowers on spikes and finely dissected, fragrant, gray-green leaves, Russian sage (Perovskia atriplicifolia) works well for perennial borders, mixed borders, wildlife gardens and other landscape areas. This drought-tolerant, woody-based perennial is hardy in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 5 through 9, and grows 3 to 5 feet tall and 2 to 4 feet wide. Its two-lipped, tubular flowers appear in summer through fall.
Perennial and Mixed Borders
Russian sage works well as a perennial border and in mixed borders that include perennials, bulbs, shrubs, evergreens and other plants When paired with evergreens, the plant's blue flowers create an interesting color contrast. When summer's blue flowers fade, Russian sage continues to stand tall in warm climates and add vertical interest to garden beds. Standing tall is sometimes a problem for Russian sage, however, as it tends to flop over when it gets tall. To prevent this, plant supportive plants around it and make sure the sage gets full sun.
Plant Russian sage toward the back of the border, where it adds height and doesn't screen smaller plants. This low-maintenance perennial tolerates dry, rocky, chalky and alkaline soil, and its salt tolerance means it grows well in coastal gardens. Prune the plants to 6 inches above the soil surface in spring, as new growth provides the best flowering. Before and after pruning Russian sage, sterilize pruning shear blades by wiping them with a cloth dipped in rubbing alcohol.
Wildlife Gardens
Russian sage works beautifully in informal wildlife gardens, providing a hazy background of blooms that last all summer long and well into September. This fragrant plant attracts butterflies and hummingbirds while resisting more destructive garden visitors like deer and rabbits. The fine, crowded stems of the plant offer shelter to beneficial insects as well. For a natural look, plant your Russian sage in odd-numbered groups of three, five or seven plants. If you want to add an extra burst of color, consider pairing pink flowers with the sage for an attractive contrast.
Household Uses of Sage
The Russian sage is a distant relative of the mint family but is not the same as the sage commonly used as a spice. There are, however, still many Russian sage uses. Though the leaves of the Russian sage plant are slightly toxic and you should not eat them, the plant's flowers are edible and have a peppery flavor. You can use the leaves for garnish or steep them in a tea that many claim eases digestive discomfort. While you can't east Russian sage leaves, you can dry them to make a fragrant potpourri. You can also dry complete stalks of the Russian sage plant for use in dried flower arrangements.
Russian Sage Varieties
Cultivars of Russian sage have a range of uses in gardens too. Russian sage "Little Spire" (Perovskia atriplicifolia "Little Spire") grows 1 1/2 to 2 feet tall and wide, and provides informal hedging and edging for paths. This compact plant also grows well in containers. Russian sage "Filigran" (Perovskia "Filigran") grows 2 to 4 feet tall and 2 to 3 feet wide, featuring lacy silvery foliage, which looks decorative in an ornamental border. Russian sage "Longin" (Perovskia "Longin") grows 3 to 4 feet tall and 2 to 3 feet wide, and has an upright habit, making it a useful vertical contrast to rounded, bushy plants. "Little Spire," "Filigran" and "Longin" are hardy in USDA zones 5 through 9.
Perennial and Mixed Borders
Russian sage works well as a perennial border and in mixed borders that include perennials, bulbs, shrubs, evergreens and other plants When paired with evergreens, the plant's blue flowers create an interesting color contrast. When summer's blue flowers fade, Russian sage continues to stand tall in warm climates and add vertical interest to garden beds. Standing tall is sometimes a problem for Russian sage, however, as it tends to flop over when it gets tall. To prevent this, plant supportive plants around it and make sure the sage gets full sun.
Plant Russian sage toward the back of the border, where it adds height and doesn't screen smaller plants. This low-maintenance perennial tolerates dry, rocky, chalky and alkaline soil, and its salt tolerance means it grows well in coastal gardens. Prune the plants to 6 inches above the soil surface in spring, as new growth provides the best flowering. Before and after pruning Russian sage, sterilize pruning shear blades by wiping them with a cloth dipped in rubbing alcohol.
Wildlife Gardens
Russian sage works beautifully in informal wildlife gardens, providing a hazy background of blooms that last all summer long and well into September. This fragrant plant attracts butterflies and hummingbirds while resisting more destructive garden visitors like deer and rabbits. The fine, crowded stems of the plant offer shelter to beneficial insects as well. For a natural look, plant your Russian sage in odd-numbered groups of three, five or seven plants. If you want to add an extra burst of color, consider pairing pink flowers with the sage for an attractive contrast.
Household Uses of Sage
The Russian sage is a distant relative of the mint family but is not the same as the sage commonly used as a spice. There are, however, still many Russian sage uses. Though the leaves of the Russian sage plant are slightly toxic and you should not eat them, the plant's flowers are edible and have a peppery flavor. You can use the leaves for garnish or steep them in a tea that many claim eases digestive discomfort. While you can't east Russian sage leaves, you can dry them to make a fragrant potpourri. You can also dry complete stalks of the Russian sage plant for use in dried flower arrangements.
Russian Sage Varieties
Cultivars of Russian sage have a range of uses in gardens too. Russian sage "Little Spire" (Perovskia atriplicifolia "Little Spire") grows 1 1/2 to 2 feet tall and wide, and provides informal hedging and edging for paths. This compact plant also grows well in containers. Russian sage "Filigran" (Perovskia "Filigran") grows 2 to 4 feet tall and 2 to 3 feet wide, featuring lacy silvery foliage, which looks decorative in an ornamental border. Russian sage "Longin" (Perovskia "Longin") grows 3 to 4 feet tall and 2 to 3 feet wide, and has an upright habit, making it a useful vertical contrast to rounded, bushy plants. "Little Spire," "Filigran" and "Longin" are hardy in USDA zones 5 through 9.
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成长记
kensong
2018年08月27日
And the flower stalk is stretching out. Looks like they are going to be orange flowers.
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文章
Miss Chen
2018年08月26日
Azaleas, a member of the Rhododendron family, are shrubs that feature green, glossy leaves and clumps of colorful flowers--if grown under the right conditions. Once the heavy clay, alkaline Texas soil has been properly prepared to accommodate these picky bushes, the azalea has been planted in the soil properly and the appropriate spot to receive afternoon shade to protect the shrub from the Texas sun has been chosen the shrub rewards with showy flowers that require only a small amount of attention to maintain in Texas.
Step 1
Choose a location where the plant receives afternoon shade, such as the east or north side of your home, to protect the shrub from the Texas sun. Encore azaleas, which bloom in the spring and then again--for an encore--in the fall, are more tolerant of alkaline soils and heat, making them a good choice for Texas.
Step 2
Place ground pine bark, peat moss and sandy loam on top of the chosen planting spot. Mix with the shovel and build a mound about 12 to 18 inches high and about 4 feet in diameter. The shallow roots of the azaleas grow in this well-aerated, nutrient-rich mixture rather than the heavy clay soil of Texas.
Step 3
Spread expanded shale on top of mound until shale is 2 inches deep.
Step 4
Sprinkle five handfuls of fertilizer on the mound. Mix the planting medium with the shovel, maintaining the mound.
Step 5
Place the shrub in the bucket of water and ensure the root ball is completely submerged. Soak until no bubbles rise to the top of the water. Remove shrub and cut the roots vertically in three places using the knife, allowing for new root growth.
Step 6
Push dirt to the side in the middle of the mound. Make a hole almost the depth of the root ball. Place the azalea in the hole, ensuring the top of the root ball is slightly above ground.
Step 7
Push the dirt back around the outside of the root ball, leaving the crown exposed. Mulch the entire mound without covering the crown or allowing the mulch around the trunk of the azalea. Mulch about 3 inches deep. Water well.
Step 8
Check soil around the new shrub every day to ensure soil is slightly damp. Water when soil is dry. When growth of new leaves and flowers is obvious, water the root area well once or twice per week, depending on the weather. Maintain mulch depth for retention of moisture. Azaleas have shallow root systems and dry out quickly in the Texas heat.
Step 9
Prune leggy stems just after flowering to make the shrub dense and compact. Do not prune or fertilize after budding begins around late July. Fertilize after pruning.
Step 1
Choose a location where the plant receives afternoon shade, such as the east or north side of your home, to protect the shrub from the Texas sun. Encore azaleas, which bloom in the spring and then again--for an encore--in the fall, are more tolerant of alkaline soils and heat, making them a good choice for Texas.
Step 2
Place ground pine bark, peat moss and sandy loam on top of the chosen planting spot. Mix with the shovel and build a mound about 12 to 18 inches high and about 4 feet in diameter. The shallow roots of the azaleas grow in this well-aerated, nutrient-rich mixture rather than the heavy clay soil of Texas.
Step 3
Spread expanded shale on top of mound until shale is 2 inches deep.
Step 4
Sprinkle five handfuls of fertilizer on the mound. Mix the planting medium with the shovel, maintaining the mound.
Step 5
Place the shrub in the bucket of water and ensure the root ball is completely submerged. Soak until no bubbles rise to the top of the water. Remove shrub and cut the roots vertically in three places using the knife, allowing for new root growth.
Step 6
Push dirt to the side in the middle of the mound. Make a hole almost the depth of the root ball. Place the azalea in the hole, ensuring the top of the root ball is slightly above ground.
Step 7
Push the dirt back around the outside of the root ball, leaving the crown exposed. Mulch the entire mound without covering the crown or allowing the mulch around the trunk of the azalea. Mulch about 3 inches deep. Water well.
Step 8
Check soil around the new shrub every day to ensure soil is slightly damp. Water when soil is dry. When growth of new leaves and flowers is obvious, water the root area well once or twice per week, depending on the weather. Maintain mulch depth for retention of moisture. Azaleas have shallow root systems and dry out quickly in the Texas heat.
Step 9
Prune leggy stems just after flowering to make the shrub dense and compact. Do not prune or fertilize after budding begins around late July. Fertilize after pruning.
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Miss Chen
2018年08月22日
Most garden plants are either annuals that bloom for one season only, or perennials that blossom once a year for multiple years. It is possible, though, to find flowers that bloom more than once a year. The specific plants that will blossom twice in your garden depend on your climate and growing conditions, but there are a few varieties that can generally be counted upon for biannual blooms.
Encore Azalea
Related to the rhododendron, the azalea is a flowering shrub known as the "royalty of the garden." Encore azaleas bloom more than once a year and grow best in U.S. Department of Agriculture planting zones 7 to 10, in slightly acidic soil. Encore azalea cultivars include Autumn Royalty, an azalea/rhododendron hybrid; Autumn Starlight, which has 3-inch white flowers that have pink freckles or stripes; and the Pink Craze, cold hardy, with light pink flowers.
Cattelya Orchid
Most orchid varieties bloom once a year, but the miniature cattelya orchid is notable for blooming twice -- other cattelyas also bloom twice depending on the variety and growth conditions. Speak with your seed supplier or garden expert to find out what will work in your own yard. Note also that other varieties might start blooming twice a year after they have had a few growths. The cattelya grows best in tropical climates.
Bearded Iris
Bearded irises are available in a range of colors, sizes -- under 8 inches to 42 inches tall -- and color patterns (including dark lower petals topped by lighter upper ones, and white petals with dark stippling). The climate needed for a bearded iris depends on the specific variety you are trying to grow, so check carefully with your plant supplier. Note that some varieties start to re-bloom only after a few years
Encore Azalea
Related to the rhododendron, the azalea is a flowering shrub known as the "royalty of the garden." Encore azaleas bloom more than once a year and grow best in U.S. Department of Agriculture planting zones 7 to 10, in slightly acidic soil. Encore azalea cultivars include Autumn Royalty, an azalea/rhododendron hybrid; Autumn Starlight, which has 3-inch white flowers that have pink freckles or stripes; and the Pink Craze, cold hardy, with light pink flowers.
Cattelya Orchid
Most orchid varieties bloom once a year, but the miniature cattelya orchid is notable for blooming twice -- other cattelyas also bloom twice depending on the variety and growth conditions. Speak with your seed supplier or garden expert to find out what will work in your own yard. Note also that other varieties might start blooming twice a year after they have had a few growths. The cattelya grows best in tropical climates.
Bearded Iris
Bearded irises are available in a range of colors, sizes -- under 8 inches to 42 inches tall -- and color patterns (including dark lower petals topped by lighter upper ones, and white petals with dark stippling). The climate needed for a bearded iris depends on the specific variety you are trying to grow, so check carefully with your plant supplier. Note that some varieties start to re-bloom only after a few years
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Miss Chen
2018年08月21日
Few perennials can top the daylily (Hemerocallis spp.) for colorful flowers that keep coming for several weeks during spring and summer. Available in thousands of cultivars with different features, the daylily gets its name from its characteristic of keeping each flower open for only one day. Although daylilies are usually simple to grow, it can be discouraging to see their leaves begin turning yellow, a situation that can result from a number of problems.
A Natural Change
Yellowing in daylilies at the end of their growing season is part of their annual cycle. Most daylilies grow as frost-hardy perennials in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 2 through 10, with some variation among cultivars. They usually bloom from spring into summer, with the exact timing differing among the many varieties.
When fall arrives and temperatures cool, daylily plants stop growing and their leaves start to turn yellow as photosynthesis -- the plants' manufacture of food -- stops. By late fall, the yellow leaves turn brown then gradually dry, collapsing around the plants' bases. In warm-winter areas, daylilies' leaves may undergo this change a bit later, in early winter, but eventually the plants become dormant in those regions, with new growth appearing the following spring.
Improper Water Amount
Daylilies are simple to care for once established, but young plants need regular moisture to put out good root systems that sustain growth. If newly planted daylilies develop yellow leaves that start turning brown, then the problem could be too little water. During the growing season, generally spring through early fall, daylilies' soil should not be allowed to dry out completely. For the best results, ensure the plants get about 1 inch of water weekly, including rain.
Too much water -- either from constant rain or overwatering -- can promote root rot. Roots become brown and slimy instead of being white and firm, and they're unable to take up soil nutrients, causing wilting and yellowing of leaves. Water daylilies only when their top 1 inch of soil feels dry to your fingertip, and don't plant them in a low spot that tends to stay wet for long periods.
Disease Problems
Daylilies are susceptible to two potentially serious diseases, which are called leaf streak and daylily rust and are caused by fungal organisms. As its name suggests, leaf streak results in long, yellow streaks on leaves, starting at leaf tips and with leaves eventually turning brown and dying. Daylily rust causes similar changes, along with orange spots on leaf undersides.
Those problems can be prevented by only purchasing cultivars labeled as resistant to those diseases. Also, use a soaker hose or drip irrigation when watering daylilies to keep their foliage dry, space the plants at least 2 to 3 feet apart so their foliage doesn't touch and so their air circulation is good, and clear away plant debris often. You can also spray infected plants with a fungicide containing a chemical called myclobutanil, diluted at a rate of 1/2 fluid ounce per 1 gallon of water; use it every two weeks three or four times for leaf-streak infected plants, and use it every two weeks as needed for daylily rust-infected plants, but check your fungicide product's label for its specific directions. Prepare and spray the mixture only on a windless day, and wear goggles, a hat, a dust mask, and gloves and other clothing to cover your skin.
Pest Infestations
Although daylilies are generally resistant to most pests, occasionally an infestation of a sucking insect may cause the plants' leaves to yellow. For example, thrips, which are 1/8th-inch-long, winged pests, can cause silver-to-yellow speckles on leaves. Aphids or mites also infest the plants, causing leaves to yellow and become deformed. Aphids are tiny, greenish insects while mites are not visible to the naked eye but produce weblike coverings that can be seen without a microscope on leaves.
If you want to control thrips, aphids and mites, spray affected plants with insecticidal soap diluted at a rate of 5 tablespoons per 1 gallon of water. Repeat the application every two weeks as needed. Prepare and spray the solution on only a windless day when the temperature is below 90 degrees Fahrenheit, and wear protective clothing.
A Natural Change
Yellowing in daylilies at the end of their growing season is part of their annual cycle. Most daylilies grow as frost-hardy perennials in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 2 through 10, with some variation among cultivars. They usually bloom from spring into summer, with the exact timing differing among the many varieties.
When fall arrives and temperatures cool, daylily plants stop growing and their leaves start to turn yellow as photosynthesis -- the plants' manufacture of food -- stops. By late fall, the yellow leaves turn brown then gradually dry, collapsing around the plants' bases. In warm-winter areas, daylilies' leaves may undergo this change a bit later, in early winter, but eventually the plants become dormant in those regions, with new growth appearing the following spring.
Improper Water Amount
Daylilies are simple to care for once established, but young plants need regular moisture to put out good root systems that sustain growth. If newly planted daylilies develop yellow leaves that start turning brown, then the problem could be too little water. During the growing season, generally spring through early fall, daylilies' soil should not be allowed to dry out completely. For the best results, ensure the plants get about 1 inch of water weekly, including rain.
Too much water -- either from constant rain or overwatering -- can promote root rot. Roots become brown and slimy instead of being white and firm, and they're unable to take up soil nutrients, causing wilting and yellowing of leaves. Water daylilies only when their top 1 inch of soil feels dry to your fingertip, and don't plant them in a low spot that tends to stay wet for long periods.
Disease Problems
Daylilies are susceptible to two potentially serious diseases, which are called leaf streak and daylily rust and are caused by fungal organisms. As its name suggests, leaf streak results in long, yellow streaks on leaves, starting at leaf tips and with leaves eventually turning brown and dying. Daylily rust causes similar changes, along with orange spots on leaf undersides.
Those problems can be prevented by only purchasing cultivars labeled as resistant to those diseases. Also, use a soaker hose or drip irrigation when watering daylilies to keep their foliage dry, space the plants at least 2 to 3 feet apart so their foliage doesn't touch and so their air circulation is good, and clear away plant debris often. You can also spray infected plants with a fungicide containing a chemical called myclobutanil, diluted at a rate of 1/2 fluid ounce per 1 gallon of water; use it every two weeks three or four times for leaf-streak infected plants, and use it every two weeks as needed for daylily rust-infected plants, but check your fungicide product's label for its specific directions. Prepare and spray the mixture only on a windless day, and wear goggles, a hat, a dust mask, and gloves and other clothing to cover your skin.
Pest Infestations
Although daylilies are generally resistant to most pests, occasionally an infestation of a sucking insect may cause the plants' leaves to yellow. For example, thrips, which are 1/8th-inch-long, winged pests, can cause silver-to-yellow speckles on leaves. Aphids or mites also infest the plants, causing leaves to yellow and become deformed. Aphids are tiny, greenish insects while mites are not visible to the naked eye but produce weblike coverings that can be seen without a microscope on leaves.
If you want to control thrips, aphids and mites, spray affected plants with insecticidal soap diluted at a rate of 5 tablespoons per 1 gallon of water. Repeat the application every two weeks as needed. Prepare and spray the solution on only a windless day when the temperature is below 90 degrees Fahrenheit, and wear protective clothing.
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Miss Chen
2018年08月21日
Hibiscus (Hibiscus spp.) plants produce large, often colorful, flowers during the summer. The hardy hibiscus varieties, such as rose of Sharon (Hibiscus syriacus), grow in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 5 through 9. Tropical varieties, like Chinese hibiscus (Hibiscus rosa-sinensis), grow in USDA zones 9 through 11. Both hardy and tropical hibiscuses can suffer from yellow leaves and overall decline. The symptoms, causes and treatments are similar for both types of hibiscus.
Winter Leaf Drop
Tropical hibiscus varieties grown outdoors in summer but overwintered inside tend to suffer leaf yellowing, drop and dieback in the days following the move. It's difficult to supply a tropical hibiscus with enough light indoors, which causes further yellowing beyond the initial shock of relocation. Remove the leaves as they yellow if you want to try and keep the plant active during the winter. North Dakota State University Extension suggests placing the plant under bright artificial lighting for 13 hours each day, when brought inside during the winter months. You can also allow the plant to go dormant during winter. Place the plant in a dark area at around 40 to 50 degrees Fahrenheit and allow all the leaves to yellow and fall off before cutting the plant back to 6 inches tall. In spring, resume watering and place the plant in a sunny spot to encourage a fresh flush of healthy, green growth.
Cultural Concerns
Wet, poorly drained soil can cause root rots and general leaf yellowing. Grow potted hibiscus in containers with bottom drainage holes so the soil doesn't stay soggy. Plant garden hibiscus in well-draining soil and avoid overwatering and waterlogged soil. Nutrient deficiencies can also cause yellowing foliage, especially a lack of nitrogen in the soil. Water potted hibiscus with a soluble, all-purpose fertilizer every two weeks, such as a 1/2 teaspoon of 24-8-16 all-purpose blend mixed with 1 quart of water. For garden plants, sprinkling 1 tablespoon of a 12-4-8 or similar blend over every 1 square foot of garden at eight-week intervals provides enough nutrients. Fertilize hibiscus plants only when they are actively growing in spring and summer.
Blights
Both tropical and hardy hibiscus varieties can develop yellow leaves from a botrytis blight infection. This fungal disease may also cause spotting and discoloration on flowers or show as gray masses of mold on leaf, bud and stem surfaces. Overly wet soil and poor air circulation are the main causes. Remove affected leaves, stems and flowers with shears, wiping the shears with an isopropyl alcohol-soaked rag after each cut to destroy any fungal spores. Avoid overhead watering and keep the soil moist but not soggy.
Leaf Spot Diseases
Yellow spots on leaf surfaces may indicate a fungal leaf spot diseases. The shape and size of the spots varies, but most leaf spot diseases aren't fatal and they rarely cause long-term damage. Hibiscus plants don't require fungicide treatments for leaf spots. Instead, remove badly affected leaves and clean up fallen leaves and plant debris from around the base of the plant. Watering early in the day and keeping the foliage dry further prevents leaf spot problems.
Winter Leaf Drop
Tropical hibiscus varieties grown outdoors in summer but overwintered inside tend to suffer leaf yellowing, drop and dieback in the days following the move. It's difficult to supply a tropical hibiscus with enough light indoors, which causes further yellowing beyond the initial shock of relocation. Remove the leaves as they yellow if you want to try and keep the plant active during the winter. North Dakota State University Extension suggests placing the plant under bright artificial lighting for 13 hours each day, when brought inside during the winter months. You can also allow the plant to go dormant during winter. Place the plant in a dark area at around 40 to 50 degrees Fahrenheit and allow all the leaves to yellow and fall off before cutting the plant back to 6 inches tall. In spring, resume watering and place the plant in a sunny spot to encourage a fresh flush of healthy, green growth.
Cultural Concerns
Wet, poorly drained soil can cause root rots and general leaf yellowing. Grow potted hibiscus in containers with bottom drainage holes so the soil doesn't stay soggy. Plant garden hibiscus in well-draining soil and avoid overwatering and waterlogged soil. Nutrient deficiencies can also cause yellowing foliage, especially a lack of nitrogen in the soil. Water potted hibiscus with a soluble, all-purpose fertilizer every two weeks, such as a 1/2 teaspoon of 24-8-16 all-purpose blend mixed with 1 quart of water. For garden plants, sprinkling 1 tablespoon of a 12-4-8 or similar blend over every 1 square foot of garden at eight-week intervals provides enough nutrients. Fertilize hibiscus plants only when they are actively growing in spring and summer.
Blights
Both tropical and hardy hibiscus varieties can develop yellow leaves from a botrytis blight infection. This fungal disease may also cause spotting and discoloration on flowers or show as gray masses of mold on leaf, bud and stem surfaces. Overly wet soil and poor air circulation are the main causes. Remove affected leaves, stems and flowers with shears, wiping the shears with an isopropyl alcohol-soaked rag after each cut to destroy any fungal spores. Avoid overhead watering and keep the soil moist but not soggy.
Leaf Spot Diseases
Yellow spots on leaf surfaces may indicate a fungal leaf spot diseases. The shape and size of the spots varies, but most leaf spot diseases aren't fatal and they rarely cause long-term damage. Hibiscus plants don't require fungicide treatments for leaf spots. Instead, remove badly affected leaves and clean up fallen leaves and plant debris from around the base of the plant. Watering early in the day and keeping the foliage dry further prevents leaf spot problems.
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Miss Chen
2018年08月16日
Crocosmia (Crocosmia x crocosmiiflora), also known as montbretia, is a sturdy summer bloomer that produces thick, strappy foliage topped with masses of bright, funnel-shaped flowers in shades of orange, yellow or red. At maturity, the flower stalks grow to heights of 2 to 3 feet. Native to South Africa, crocosmia flourishes in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 6 through 10. In cooler climates, crocosmia's bulblike corms must be removed from the ground in autumn and stored for the winter.
Plant crocosmia corms after the ground can be worked in springtime. Select a spot with well-drained soil, and work a balanced fertilizer into the soil before planting. A granular, slow-release, 10-10-10 fertilizer at a rate of 1 tablespoon per 3 square feet is sufficient. Plant the corms 6 to 8 inches apart and 3 to 5 inches deep. The plant likes full sunlight but tolerates light shade. In warmer climates, crocosmia can be planted in either fall or spring.
Water the crocosmia deeply at planting time, approximately 1 gallon of water per square foot, so the soil is saturated. After that time, crocosmia requires no supplemental irrigation until growth emerges in a few weeks. After growth appears, water crocosmia thoroughly to saturate the soil every seven to 10 days.
Spread 2 to 3 inches of organic mulch over the planting area after planting the crocosmia. Mulch helps retain the soil's moisture and keep soil temperatures from fluctuating. Mulch also helps deter growth of weeds that compete with crocosmia for moisture and nutrients.
Fertilize crocosmia, using a general-purpose garden fertilizer, when the shoots are 6 to 8 inches tall. Use a water-soluble fertilizer with all three numbers the same, such as 15-15-15. Mix 1 tablespoon of fertilizer with 1 gallon of water, and water thoroughly. Repeat the process again when the blooms appear.
Clip crocosmia blooms as often as desired for cut flower bouquets. Use sharp garden scissors, and sterilize the blades with household disinfectant before and after cutting to prevent spreading disease. Remove spent blooms regularly, by hand or with scissors, to promote more blooms. After blooming, leave the foliage. Let it die down naturally on its own. This helps refuel the corms for next year.
Divide crocosmia every three to four years to keep the plant from becoming overcrowded. Don't divide more often; crocosmia blooms most profusely when slightly crowded. Dig the entire clump in autumn with a garden spade, then divide it into smaller sections. Wear gloves, gently pull the corms apart, and replant the smaller sections in a prepared spot. Crocosmia has few pests or diseases, but throw away any soft or damaged corms that look unhealthy.
Dig crocosmia corms after the foliage dies down in autumn, if you live in a climate cooler than USDA zone 6. Place the corms in a sheltered spot to dry for one or two days, then place the corms in a paper bag or cardboard box filled with sawdust or peat moss. Store the bulbs in a cool, dry room where temperatures will stay between 35 and 45 degrees Fahrenheit for the winter months. When spring arrives, replant the crocosmia corms in your garden.
Plant crocosmia corms after the ground can be worked in springtime. Select a spot with well-drained soil, and work a balanced fertilizer into the soil before planting. A granular, slow-release, 10-10-10 fertilizer at a rate of 1 tablespoon per 3 square feet is sufficient. Plant the corms 6 to 8 inches apart and 3 to 5 inches deep. The plant likes full sunlight but tolerates light shade. In warmer climates, crocosmia can be planted in either fall or spring.
Water the crocosmia deeply at planting time, approximately 1 gallon of water per square foot, so the soil is saturated. After that time, crocosmia requires no supplemental irrigation until growth emerges in a few weeks. After growth appears, water crocosmia thoroughly to saturate the soil every seven to 10 days.
Spread 2 to 3 inches of organic mulch over the planting area after planting the crocosmia. Mulch helps retain the soil's moisture and keep soil temperatures from fluctuating. Mulch also helps deter growth of weeds that compete with crocosmia for moisture and nutrients.
Fertilize crocosmia, using a general-purpose garden fertilizer, when the shoots are 6 to 8 inches tall. Use a water-soluble fertilizer with all three numbers the same, such as 15-15-15. Mix 1 tablespoon of fertilizer with 1 gallon of water, and water thoroughly. Repeat the process again when the blooms appear.
Clip crocosmia blooms as often as desired for cut flower bouquets. Use sharp garden scissors, and sterilize the blades with household disinfectant before and after cutting to prevent spreading disease. Remove spent blooms regularly, by hand or with scissors, to promote more blooms. After blooming, leave the foliage. Let it die down naturally on its own. This helps refuel the corms for next year.
Divide crocosmia every three to four years to keep the plant from becoming overcrowded. Don't divide more often; crocosmia blooms most profusely when slightly crowded. Dig the entire clump in autumn with a garden spade, then divide it into smaller sections. Wear gloves, gently pull the corms apart, and replant the smaller sections in a prepared spot. Crocosmia has few pests or diseases, but throw away any soft or damaged corms that look unhealthy.
Dig crocosmia corms after the foliage dies down in autumn, if you live in a climate cooler than USDA zone 6. Place the corms in a sheltered spot to dry for one or two days, then place the corms in a paper bag or cardboard box filled with sawdust or peat moss. Store the bulbs in a cool, dry room where temperatures will stay between 35 and 45 degrees Fahrenheit for the winter months. When spring arrives, replant the crocosmia corms in your garden.
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Miss Chen
2018年08月14日
Flowering perennial plants have a life cycle of two years or more. They require less maintenance than annual flowers and they include regional native flowering plants. Familiar flowering perennials include hollyhock, roses, Shasta daisies, carnations, iris, coreopsis, azaleas, hydrangeas and peonies. Native perennials such as Ceanothus, salvia, abutilon, yarrow, columbine and pawpaw, thrive in the natural climate and soil conditions of their native regions and do not require additional soil amendments.
Yarrow
Common yarrow, also known as milfoil, is native to the entire United States. It is a member of the aster family of flowers and has many hybridized variations. Yarrow grows 3 feet in height, has lacy gray-green leaves and white or pink flat-topped clusters of flowers. This native flowering perennial adapts easily to a home garden where it spreads through seed from its mature flowers. It has fragrant foliage and has been traditionally used as a medicinal tea for stomach ailments. Yarrow blooms April to July in the south and west and from mid-July through September in the north.
Butterfly Weed
Butterfly weed, butterfly milkweed, orange milkweed and pleurisy root are the common names for this showy, abundant-blooming native perennial. Its bright yellow-orange flower clusters are 2 to 5 inches across and bloom from May to September. Its sturdy blooms are good cut flowers and are grown with other mid-size flowering perennials. It has a high drought tolerance, very low water usage and prefers sandy, well-draining soil. Indigenous people used the root of this plant as a cure for bronchitis and other lung ailments. Regional native plant nurseries provide seeds and started butterfly weed plants.
Great Blue Lobelia
Showy lavender blue tubular flowers grow on the stems of the native Great Blue Lobelia. This native plant flowering perennial thrives in moist garden conditions in sun or shade, in clay or sandy soil. It blooms July to September. It is commercially available through native plant nurseries, propagated by divided root clumps or seed. Seeds sprout easily on a slightly scratched soil surface. Great Blue Lobelia attracts birds and butterflies to the garden.
Desert Marigold
This flowering short-lived perennial is native to the drier regions of the southwestern United States. Seeds are commercially available from online native plant resources. It is easily grown in home gardens where it provides yellow daisy-like flowers that bloom continuously from early spring to fall on a 12 to 18 inch mound. Its leaves are woolly and grayish, with one bloom at the end of each slender, leafless flower stalk. The desert marigold thrives in dry soil, part shade and extreme heat. It has very low water requirements and it attracts bees and butterflies.
Yarrow
Common yarrow, also known as milfoil, is native to the entire United States. It is a member of the aster family of flowers and has many hybridized variations. Yarrow grows 3 feet in height, has lacy gray-green leaves and white or pink flat-topped clusters of flowers. This native flowering perennial adapts easily to a home garden where it spreads through seed from its mature flowers. It has fragrant foliage and has been traditionally used as a medicinal tea for stomach ailments. Yarrow blooms April to July in the south and west and from mid-July through September in the north.
Butterfly Weed
Butterfly weed, butterfly milkweed, orange milkweed and pleurisy root are the common names for this showy, abundant-blooming native perennial. Its bright yellow-orange flower clusters are 2 to 5 inches across and bloom from May to September. Its sturdy blooms are good cut flowers and are grown with other mid-size flowering perennials. It has a high drought tolerance, very low water usage and prefers sandy, well-draining soil. Indigenous people used the root of this plant as a cure for bronchitis and other lung ailments. Regional native plant nurseries provide seeds and started butterfly weed plants.
Great Blue Lobelia
Showy lavender blue tubular flowers grow on the stems of the native Great Blue Lobelia. This native plant flowering perennial thrives in moist garden conditions in sun or shade, in clay or sandy soil. It blooms July to September. It is commercially available through native plant nurseries, propagated by divided root clumps or seed. Seeds sprout easily on a slightly scratched soil surface. Great Blue Lobelia attracts birds and butterflies to the garden.
Desert Marigold
This flowering short-lived perennial is native to the drier regions of the southwestern United States. Seeds are commercially available from online native plant resources. It is easily grown in home gardens where it provides yellow daisy-like flowers that bloom continuously from early spring to fall on a 12 to 18 inch mound. Its leaves are woolly and grayish, with one bloom at the end of each slender, leafless flower stalk. The desert marigold thrives in dry soil, part shade and extreme heat. It has very low water requirements and it attracts bees and butterflies.
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Miss Chen
2018年08月14日
Lilies (Lilium spp.) produce tall stems lined with many lance-like leaves and produce a cluster of flowers in late spring to early fall, depending on species. Over 100 lily species exist and hundreds more hybrid cultivars, such as those known as LA Hybrid, Asiatic or Orienpet lilies. Deadheading is the process of trimming off old, withering flowers with the hope of encouraging reblooming. Deadheading lilies is for aesthetic purposes only; lilies do not rebloom once their primary flowering display ends.
Reasons to Deadhead
A gardener does not need to deadhead lilies in order for the plant to remain healthy. People concerned with tidy garden appearance may choose to trim off old, spent lily flowers from the stem tips to make the plant look better. Lily flowers that are not cut off will develop into a three-chamber capsule that forms seeds. If you want the clump of lily plants to grow more robust, cut off the seed capsules so the plant energy goes into developing larger bulbs in the ground. Otherwise, resources are put into producing seeds.
How to Deadhead Lilies
The structure and form of flowers on lilies vary by species, so take the time to examine the flower tip on plant stems before deadheading. You may opt to pluck off old lily blossoms one at a time by snipping them off where the short stem attaches to the main flower stem or stalk. Or, you can wait for all flowers in the lily cluster to wither before making one cut to trim off the upper reaches of the lily stalk.
Caveats
Do not cut off more of the main leafy stem stalk of a lily than necessary to remove the old flowering tip. You want as many leaves to remain as possible, since they make carbohydrates from sunlight that replenishes and enlarges the underground lily bulbs. Lily bulbs produce daughter bulbs at their base during the summer, thereby increasing the clump. In subsequent years, multiple large lily bulbs grow and produce more flowers than a lone lily bulb.
Insights on Other Plants Called Lily
Horticulturists refer to species in the genus Lilium as "true lilies." Other members in the larger lily family, Liliaceae, and other plant families are also given common names of lily. Daylily, Peruvian lily, waterlily, lily-of-the-Nile, lily-of-the-valley, calla lily and toad lily are examples. These types of "false" lilies may or may not benefit from deadheading -- it depends on the individual species.
Reasons to Deadhead
A gardener does not need to deadhead lilies in order for the plant to remain healthy. People concerned with tidy garden appearance may choose to trim off old, spent lily flowers from the stem tips to make the plant look better. Lily flowers that are not cut off will develop into a three-chamber capsule that forms seeds. If you want the clump of lily plants to grow more robust, cut off the seed capsules so the plant energy goes into developing larger bulbs in the ground. Otherwise, resources are put into producing seeds.
How to Deadhead Lilies
The structure and form of flowers on lilies vary by species, so take the time to examine the flower tip on plant stems before deadheading. You may opt to pluck off old lily blossoms one at a time by snipping them off where the short stem attaches to the main flower stem or stalk. Or, you can wait for all flowers in the lily cluster to wither before making one cut to trim off the upper reaches of the lily stalk.
Caveats
Do not cut off more of the main leafy stem stalk of a lily than necessary to remove the old flowering tip. You want as many leaves to remain as possible, since they make carbohydrates from sunlight that replenishes and enlarges the underground lily bulbs. Lily bulbs produce daughter bulbs at their base during the summer, thereby increasing the clump. In subsequent years, multiple large lily bulbs grow and produce more flowers than a lone lily bulb.
Insights on Other Plants Called Lily
Horticulturists refer to species in the genus Lilium as "true lilies." Other members in the larger lily family, Liliaceae, and other plant families are also given common names of lily. Daylily, Peruvian lily, waterlily, lily-of-the-Nile, lily-of-the-valley, calla lily and toad lily are examples. These types of "false" lilies may or may not benefit from deadheading -- it depends on the individual species.
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