文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月04日
1. Compact Cameras are Fine
The first thing people tell me when they see my photographs of flowers is that my DSLR makes them possible. They're wrong. You do not need to have big cameras to make nice photographs of flowers.
I've photographed flowers for my collection with everything from full frame DSLRs to compact cameras. Let me say this: I prefer DSLRs, but it's not the gear that is important. It's the photographer.
Compact cameras are good for photographing flowers, and some of them can focus so close, you'll beat out the DSLR photographers that need to spend lots of money in macro lenses to achieve the same effect.
I carry a small compact in my pocket all the time. Most modern compact can focus on things just a few inches away from the lens. Some days I take a Micro 4/3 with me, and it never stopped me from getting the shots I want. You just have to adapt to the gear you've, because your best camera is always the one you have at the moment things happen!
The picture above, of a California poppy, taken at the roundabout of a circular junction, was made with a cheap compact camera. I just stopped the car close by and went on to photograph it, surprising the drivers passing by, as they saw me lying on the ground. I did it because I wanted to take a picture that was different from what most people do.
2. Get Down on Your Knees
One of the most important things to remember is to change your point of view. As I am a frequent visitor to public gardens and other places with flowers, I see how many amateurs photograph flowers: they come close to it, look down from above and shoot then they move on to another subject. Wrong move!
Getting down on your knees shows a different perspective of the world, and opens a new horizon for your flower photography.
To really photograph flowers you can not just take a snapshot and go away. Try to sit down at the level of the flowers and really look at them. It’s when you sit and watch that you discover more than the casual photographer does. You'll start to really see.
3. Sit, Meditate and See
Photographing flowers is a good excuse to meditate. Sit down, try to find a spot away from people (if it’s possible) and relax. Don’t grab your camera and start shooting immediately. Take your time to sense the odors, examine the structure, colors and shapes.
Look around and try to spot a few possible images around you without moving from the same place. That works for me. Visualize possible framings and how it will all come together in the end.
4. Play With Your Lens
Start playing with the lens you want to use. Explore it to understand how to achieve different results. Forget the full automatic programs and choose one that lets you control your aperture. It is crucial for flower photography.
Find how close you can go to the flower. Every lens has a different minimum focusing distance.
Compact cameras are excellent in this area because they let you go very close, so close that sometimes you just get a little bit of the flower. Do it, sometimes less is more. You don’t need to have the whole flower in the frame to tell people what you want.
5. My Best Lens for Flowers
People will many times associate a macro lens with flower photography, but it does not always have to be so. In fact, my favorite lens for flower photography is a 100-400mm lens used at the longer end of the zoom. I like the way it renders flowers and backgrounds, easily separating the subject from the rest.
Me and my favorite lens for flower photography shot "at work." This picture is by my older son, Miguel Antunes.
Most of the time I do not use a tripod, so, I need to use a high shutter speed, and that means a wide aperture, as I try to stay at low ISOs, mostly 100-400 ISO. In fact, I rarely try to have the whole flower in focus, so it does not matter.
I always try to photograph from an angle that gives me a fairly good plane of focus on the best angle of the flower, and that's all I have to care about.
6. Isolate Your Subject
Pictures like the one below of a white poppy in a field of poppies only work if you can keep the background out of focus. The distance from your main subject is crucial, as well as aperture and the lens in use. Longer lenses compress planes of focus and are excellent for this. Working close to the flower also helps.
The aperture used is paramount in flower photography. Always check the aperture you're using and use the option to preview the depth of field if your camera has it.
It is at times like this that I love the effect my 100-400mm zoom offers me. As long as my subject is against a background that can be thrown out of focus, results like this one can be achieved.
From my experience, though, sometimes there is no way to get everything in balance, and then I give up and look for another flower that might fill all the conditions needed to get the picture I want.
7. Use Contrasting Backgrounds
Using a background that has a different colour than the main subject helps to define what is important in the picture, and in these situations the solution for what could be a busy background is achieved another way.
Kneeling or even lying on the ground will help you to find all these relations between the main subject and the environment that otherwise would not be perceived.
8. Get the Whole Picture
I always tell students in my workshops to follow the "peel the onion" approach when it comes to photographing flowers (and other themes too). I rarely shoot a single photo of a flower or a series from just one angle.
I can start by doing the photo that attracted me first, but then I go back to general views and move towards getting more detail again. From my experience I've found that the more you stay with a subject, the more you can discover about it.
"Peeling the onion," which means methodically removing each layer of the onion, is a good working solution when you are facing a subject you feel has potential, but you seem to not be able to get a good picture of.
Slowly moving from general shots to more intimate images helps to, eventually, reach a moment when everything fits in place and you get your picture of the day.
Again, remember that with modern cameras, mainly compacts and some "mirrorless" systems, you can get rather close with the kit lenses, so there is no reason to envy DSLR users and their macro lenses that cost much more money!
9. Control Your Depth of Field
When photographing flowers, many of us want everything in focus. When you get everything in focus, you often get a messy image.
With flowers it is wise to keep them separated from the background, unless you're looking for a specific result. You have various ways to do this: use a macro and/or a long lens, open the aperture and go around the flower, as a hunter does to its prey, to check if there's a better angle to shoot from. Don't shy away from trying different solutions and accept that sometimes it is better to give up and look elsewhere.
Armed with these suggestions – and the hint of the photographs published with this article – I bet you’ll soon be taking home very different photographs of flowers.
10. Develop Your Own Recipe
Look carefully at my images and you'll learn a lot. I know, because I've done the same looking at the work of photographers such as George Lepp, famous for his California poppies images and tulips. I learned a lot looking at his photographs of flowers and trying to apply the same techniques to my work.
I do not think there is anything special, a hidden trick, to make pictures like I do. I have common gear. I usually shoot with a Canon EOS 50D, although I have access to other equipment.
My most important tip when it comes to photography is time. Take the time to be patient, sit down, listen to the flowers. I even talk with flowers everywhere I go.
This image is a composite of two images shot sequentially. There is little movement between shots, taken at different exposures too, for a kind of HDR result with some softness mixed with good detail.
Flower photography is not a mechanical thing. Once you understand how light works, flower photography is the result of sitting and watching. And waiting. And returning over and over to the same spots. My pictures are examples of that practice. Now go and try it for yourself.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月04日
The tulip is a Eurasian and North African genus of herbaceous, perennial, bulbous plants in the lily family, with showy flowers. About 75 wild species are currently accepted.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月04日
Echeveria are very popular succulents that grow in attractive rosettes with beautiful leaves in a variety of colors and sometimes stunning flowers. These plants have been extensively hybridized, so in addition to the main species, there are many varieties that have been specially bred for interesting leaf form and color.
Most Echeveria will remain fairly small (a few inches to a foot across), but some species will grow to small shrub-like plants of 2 feet.
Members of the Crassulaceae family, their care is similar to sedum and kalanchoe succulents.
Growing Conditions
Light: Full sun. Perfect for a sunny window.
Water: Water during the summer and spring, making sure drainage is immaculate. Reduce water in the winter to monthly.
Temperature: Prefers average summer temps (65 degrees F - 70 degrees F). In winter, cool to 50 degrees F.
Soil: A well-drained succulent mix, with an ideal pH around 6.0 (slightly acidic).
Fertilizer: Feed with a controlled-release fertilizer in the beginning of the season or weekly with a weak liquid solution. Use a balanced 20-20-20 fertilizer at 1/4 strength on mature plants, and a fertilizer with less nitrogen on young plants.
Propagation
Most Echeveria can be easily propagated from leaf cuttings, although a few are better from seeds or stem cuttings. To propagate a leaf cutting, place the individual leaf in a succulent or cacti mix and cover the dish until the new plant sprouts.
Repotting
Repot as needed, preferably during the warm season. To repot a succulent, make sure the soil is dry before repotting, then gently remove the pot. Knock away the old soil from the roots, making sure to remove any rotted or dead roots in the process. Treat any cuts with a fungicide.
Place the plant in its new pot and backfill with potting soil, spreading the roots out as you repot.
Leave the plant dry for a week or so, then begin to water lightly to reduce the risk of root rot.
Varieties
There are many popular Echeveria, both species and hybrids. In nature, Echeveria are native to Mexico, the United States, and down into South America. Some of the more beautiful Echeveria include the blue Echeveria (E. glauca and E. laui), firecracker plant (E. setosa), painted lady (E. derenbergii), and E. agavoides.
Grower's Tips
Most of the common Echeveria species are not complicated succulents to grow, provided you follow a few basic rules. First, be careful never to let water sit in the rosette as it can cause rot or fungal diseases that will kill the plant.
Additionally, remove dead leaves from the bottom of the plant as it grows. These dead leaves provide a haven for pests, and Echeveria are susceptible to mealy bugs. As with all succulents, careful watering habits and plenty of light will help ensure success.
Most Echeveria will remain fairly small (a few inches to a foot across), but some species will grow to small shrub-like plants of 2 feet.
Members of the Crassulaceae family, their care is similar to sedum and kalanchoe succulents.
Growing Conditions
Light: Full sun. Perfect for a sunny window.
Water: Water during the summer and spring, making sure drainage is immaculate. Reduce water in the winter to monthly.
Temperature: Prefers average summer temps (65 degrees F - 70 degrees F). In winter, cool to 50 degrees F.
Soil: A well-drained succulent mix, with an ideal pH around 6.0 (slightly acidic).
Fertilizer: Feed with a controlled-release fertilizer in the beginning of the season or weekly with a weak liquid solution. Use a balanced 20-20-20 fertilizer at 1/4 strength on mature plants, and a fertilizer with less nitrogen on young plants.
Propagation
Most Echeveria can be easily propagated from leaf cuttings, although a few are better from seeds or stem cuttings. To propagate a leaf cutting, place the individual leaf in a succulent or cacti mix and cover the dish until the new plant sprouts.
Repotting
Repot as needed, preferably during the warm season. To repot a succulent, make sure the soil is dry before repotting, then gently remove the pot. Knock away the old soil from the roots, making sure to remove any rotted or dead roots in the process. Treat any cuts with a fungicide.
Place the plant in its new pot and backfill with potting soil, spreading the roots out as you repot.
Leave the plant dry for a week or so, then begin to water lightly to reduce the risk of root rot.
Varieties
There are many popular Echeveria, both species and hybrids. In nature, Echeveria are native to Mexico, the United States, and down into South America. Some of the more beautiful Echeveria include the blue Echeveria (E. glauca and E. laui), firecracker plant (E. setosa), painted lady (E. derenbergii), and E. agavoides.
Grower's Tips
Most of the common Echeveria species are not complicated succulents to grow, provided you follow a few basic rules. First, be careful never to let water sit in the rosette as it can cause rot or fungal diseases that will kill the plant.
Additionally, remove dead leaves from the bottom of the plant as it grows. These dead leaves provide a haven for pests, and Echeveria are susceptible to mealy bugs. As with all succulents, careful watering habits and plenty of light will help ensure success.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月04日
Sunflowers are such a colorful and whimsical addition to every garden. They’re easy to grow from seed, and make excellent cut flowers.
There are hundreds of different varieties of sunflowers, including perennial varieties that come back every year. Home gardeners most commonly plant annual varieties (which last only one growing season), including both dwarf and tall varieties with multiple branches and dozens of blooms (perfect for cutting). The types of sunflowers grown especially for seed harvesting also fall into the category of annual flowers. You can find sunflowers with flower colors ranging from pale lemon yellow to orange, pink, burgundy, and bright yellow. There are also bi-color and multi-color varieties.
No matter which you choose, let us teach you how to grow sunflowers for weeks of gorgeous flowers.
Where to Plant Sunflowers
Sunflowers grow best in full, bright sun, and in evenly moist, well-drained soil. The amount of space they need depends on which varieties you are growing. Branching types with multiple blooms on one stem need more space horizontally than large single-flowered types. Take care to select a spot to grow taller varieties where they won’t throw too much shade on other shorter, sun-loving plants. The north side of a flower border is almost always a good spot.
When to Plant Sunflowers
Sunflowers are warm-weather plants. You can plant sunflowers outside at the same time you plant peppers, tomatoes, eggplants, zinnias, and other warm-season vegetables and flowers. For a longer sunflower bloom period, plant a row or grouping of sunflowers every two weeks for four to six weeks during the early summer.
How to Prepare the Soil for Planting Sunflowers
Make sure your plants get off to the best start! Prepare new in-ground planting areas with Miracle-Gro® All Purpose Garden Soil, mixing 3 inches of garden soil into the top 6 to 8 inches of native soil. This will feed new plants and help build strong roots, both of which will mean big, beautiful blooms!
How to Plant Sunflowers
While you can start sunflowers from seed indoors, it’s just as easy to grow them from seed outdoors. Plant sunflower seeds directly into the garden when the soil is warm—at least fifty degrees Fahrenheit. Use your thumb to push seeds 1 to 2 inches deep into the soil. Depth and spacing depends on the variety, so read the instructions on the seed package.
How to Water Sunflowers
Water thoroughly at the time of planting and keep the planting area about as moist as a wrung-out sponge (not soggy) while the seeds are sprouting. Most sunflowers are fairly drought-tolerant once established, but will bloom better with regular water. To be on the safe side, water sunflowers well when the top two inches of soil are dry.
How to Feed Sunflowers
While sunflowers are not big feeders, you will get more and better blooms if you make sure they get a steady stream of nutrition. A month after planting, begin feeding sunflowers with Miracle-Gro® Water Soluble All Purpose Plant Food. Make sure to follow the directions on the package.
How to Stake Sunflowers
Whether or not you need to stake your sunflowers depends on how tall they get, the strength of the stems, and the branching pattern. If you’re growing a bunch of sunflowers for cut flowers, you can plant the seeds and then create a latticework of stakes and twine for the plants to grow up through. Create two rows of staggered stakes with 3 feet in between each stake. Run twine around the stakes to create a wide lattice. You can also stake individual plants that are beginning to droop by placing a sturdy stake 3 inches from the plant stem and tying the stem to the stake, loosely, with twine in a couple of places.
How to Avoid Pest Problems with Sunflowers
Squirrels and chipmunks can be a problem when you first plant sunflower seeds, as they love to dig them up and eat them. Shake some ground cayenne pepper on the ground around where you’ve planted the seeds. If that doesn’t deter them, try starting seeds indoors and then planting them outside once they have sprouted. If you’re growing sunflowers for seed, these pests can be a problem near the time of harvest as well. When the outer petals dry up, cover the large flower heads with lightweight cloth tied around the stem.
How to Harvest Sunflower Seeds
Cut the large flower heads off when the back of the large flower disk has turned black and the seed heads are dry. Leave in a cool, dry place for a few days to completely dry out, and then remove the seeds by gently rubbing the flower heads with your thumbs. Keep dried seeds in a breathable paper or cloth bag to prevent mold growth.
How to Grow Sunflowers: Recap
Plant in a sunny location with moist, well-drained soil.
Prepare the existing soil by adding Miracle-Gro® All Purpose Garden Soil.
Sow seeds directly in the garden when the soil warms up in the spring.
Water seeds at the time of planting and regularly throughout the growing season.
Feed sunflowers with Miracle-Gro® Water Soluble All Purpose Plant Food, starting a month after planting.
Stake sunflowers if they have multiple branches or heavy flower heads.
Prevent pests from digging up newly planted seeds and from eating seed heads you hope to harvest.
Harvest flower heads when the back has turned black and the seeds have dried out.
There are hundreds of different varieties of sunflowers, including perennial varieties that come back every year. Home gardeners most commonly plant annual varieties (which last only one growing season), including both dwarf and tall varieties with multiple branches and dozens of blooms (perfect for cutting). The types of sunflowers grown especially for seed harvesting also fall into the category of annual flowers. You can find sunflowers with flower colors ranging from pale lemon yellow to orange, pink, burgundy, and bright yellow. There are also bi-color and multi-color varieties.
No matter which you choose, let us teach you how to grow sunflowers for weeks of gorgeous flowers.
Where to Plant Sunflowers
Sunflowers grow best in full, bright sun, and in evenly moist, well-drained soil. The amount of space they need depends on which varieties you are growing. Branching types with multiple blooms on one stem need more space horizontally than large single-flowered types. Take care to select a spot to grow taller varieties where they won’t throw too much shade on other shorter, sun-loving plants. The north side of a flower border is almost always a good spot.
When to Plant Sunflowers
Sunflowers are warm-weather plants. You can plant sunflowers outside at the same time you plant peppers, tomatoes, eggplants, zinnias, and other warm-season vegetables and flowers. For a longer sunflower bloom period, plant a row or grouping of sunflowers every two weeks for four to six weeks during the early summer.
How to Prepare the Soil for Planting Sunflowers
Make sure your plants get off to the best start! Prepare new in-ground planting areas with Miracle-Gro® All Purpose Garden Soil, mixing 3 inches of garden soil into the top 6 to 8 inches of native soil. This will feed new plants and help build strong roots, both of which will mean big, beautiful blooms!
How to Plant Sunflowers
While you can start sunflowers from seed indoors, it’s just as easy to grow them from seed outdoors. Plant sunflower seeds directly into the garden when the soil is warm—at least fifty degrees Fahrenheit. Use your thumb to push seeds 1 to 2 inches deep into the soil. Depth and spacing depends on the variety, so read the instructions on the seed package.
How to Water Sunflowers
Water thoroughly at the time of planting and keep the planting area about as moist as a wrung-out sponge (not soggy) while the seeds are sprouting. Most sunflowers are fairly drought-tolerant once established, but will bloom better with regular water. To be on the safe side, water sunflowers well when the top two inches of soil are dry.
How to Feed Sunflowers
While sunflowers are not big feeders, you will get more and better blooms if you make sure they get a steady stream of nutrition. A month after planting, begin feeding sunflowers with Miracle-Gro® Water Soluble All Purpose Plant Food. Make sure to follow the directions on the package.
How to Stake Sunflowers
Whether or not you need to stake your sunflowers depends on how tall they get, the strength of the stems, and the branching pattern. If you’re growing a bunch of sunflowers for cut flowers, you can plant the seeds and then create a latticework of stakes and twine for the plants to grow up through. Create two rows of staggered stakes with 3 feet in between each stake. Run twine around the stakes to create a wide lattice. You can also stake individual plants that are beginning to droop by placing a sturdy stake 3 inches from the plant stem and tying the stem to the stake, loosely, with twine in a couple of places.
How to Avoid Pest Problems with Sunflowers
Squirrels and chipmunks can be a problem when you first plant sunflower seeds, as they love to dig them up and eat them. Shake some ground cayenne pepper on the ground around where you’ve planted the seeds. If that doesn’t deter them, try starting seeds indoors and then planting them outside once they have sprouted. If you’re growing sunflowers for seed, these pests can be a problem near the time of harvest as well. When the outer petals dry up, cover the large flower heads with lightweight cloth tied around the stem.
How to Harvest Sunflower Seeds
Cut the large flower heads off when the back of the large flower disk has turned black and the seed heads are dry. Leave in a cool, dry place for a few days to completely dry out, and then remove the seeds by gently rubbing the flower heads with your thumbs. Keep dried seeds in a breathable paper or cloth bag to prevent mold growth.
How to Grow Sunflowers: Recap
Plant in a sunny location with moist, well-drained soil.
Prepare the existing soil by adding Miracle-Gro® All Purpose Garden Soil.
Sow seeds directly in the garden when the soil warms up in the spring.
Water seeds at the time of planting and regularly throughout the growing season.
Feed sunflowers with Miracle-Gro® Water Soluble All Purpose Plant Food, starting a month after planting.
Stake sunflowers if they have multiple branches or heavy flower heads.
Prevent pests from digging up newly planted seeds and from eating seed heads you hope to harvest.
Harvest flower heads when the back has turned black and the seeds have dried out.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月04日
What we think of as the quintessential southern plant, the azalea, is actually mostly native to Asia. There are a few native to the United States, but the plants with huge flowers in pink, white, red, burgundy, and coral are imports. No matter! They’re a must-have in zones 6 to 9 for their amazing spring show. As shrubs go, azaleas are of the “little work, big reward” variety, so they’re definitely worth considering for your own garden and landscape.
Here’s how to grow azaleas.
How to Choose Azaleas
There are thousands of azalea varieties?too many to list. The best way to select the right one for your garden is to consider the area you have available. If you have a small space garden, look for a dwarf or smaller type. If you have lots of space to fill, some of the older Formosa varieties are great choices. Several companies offer re-blooming varieties, which bloom multiple times during the year. Some of these can get quite big, so do your research before buying.
Where to Plant Azaleas
Select a location that has morning sun and afternoon shade, or filtered light. Hot all-day sun can stress the plants and make them more susceptible to pests. Azaleas also require well-drained, acidic soil. Ideally, you would want to test the soil pH using a soil testing kit. If the pH is higher than 6.0, lower it by applying aluminum sulfate to the soil according to package instructions.
How to Plant Azaleas
When planting azaleas, spacing depends on the variety you’re growing. Larger bushes require more space than smaller types. It’s tempting to plant small bushes close together, but you will end up chopping down every other azalea bush if you do that. Read the plant tag to determine correct spacing, then follow these steps:
1.Set plants where you plan to plant.
2.Dig a planting hole that is twice as wide and just as deep as the root ball of the plant.
3.Remove the plant from its container and place it in the planting hole so the top of the root ball is even with the soil line.
4.Fill in around the plant with the soil you removed mixed in a 50:50 ratio with Miracle-Gro® Garden Soil for Trees & Shrubs. This will give the plants instant nutrition and help them grow strong roots.
5.Water thoroughly.
6.Spread a layer of mulch around the plant’s roots, taking care not to mound it against the plant. This will help keep the soil moist.
How to Water Azaleas
Thoroughly soak the soil two to three times per week during the first two months after planting. You can gradually decrease the frequency of watering as the plants become rooted. After three or four months, watering deeply once per week should be sufficient. After the first growing season, plants should not need supplemental water unless it hasn’t rained for two or more weeks.
How to Feed Azaleas
A month after planting, begin feeding azaleas with Miracle-Gro® Water Soluble Azalea, Camellia, Rhododendron Plant Food. In addition to the main plant nutrients, this fertilizer also includes micronutrients such as iron, manganese, and zinc, which are vital for growing azaleas (and other acidic soil-loving plants). Be sure to follow label directions.
How to Prune Azaleas to Control Size and Shape
If you selected azalea types that are good fits for the place they’re growing, you shouldn’t have to prune azaleas hard every year. The best time to prune azaleas is in the spring, right after they bloom.
Start by using hand pruners or loppers to remove any branches that stick out significantly from the rest of the bush. Cut those back to a main branch. Then, decide whether you need to shorten the shrub. To significantly reduce size, cut branches back to a whorl (circle) of leaves farther down on the bush. Always make sure to prune so the bottom of the bush is slightly wider than the top, so sunlight can reach all the leaves.
How to Prune Azaleas to Renew Growth
Old, overgrown azaleas, or azaleas with an empty center, can be rejuvenated with a harsh trim. Renewal pruning is done in the late winter or early spring, before flowering. (You’ll have to go a year without flowers when you do this.)
Here’s how to grow azaleas.
How to Choose Azaleas
There are thousands of azalea varieties?too many to list. The best way to select the right one for your garden is to consider the area you have available. If you have a small space garden, look for a dwarf or smaller type. If you have lots of space to fill, some of the older Formosa varieties are great choices. Several companies offer re-blooming varieties, which bloom multiple times during the year. Some of these can get quite big, so do your research before buying.
Where to Plant Azaleas
Select a location that has morning sun and afternoon shade, or filtered light. Hot all-day sun can stress the plants and make them more susceptible to pests. Azaleas also require well-drained, acidic soil. Ideally, you would want to test the soil pH using a soil testing kit. If the pH is higher than 6.0, lower it by applying aluminum sulfate to the soil according to package instructions.
How to Plant Azaleas
When planting azaleas, spacing depends on the variety you’re growing. Larger bushes require more space than smaller types. It’s tempting to plant small bushes close together, but you will end up chopping down every other azalea bush if you do that. Read the plant tag to determine correct spacing, then follow these steps:
1.Set plants where you plan to plant.
2.Dig a planting hole that is twice as wide and just as deep as the root ball of the plant.
3.Remove the plant from its container and place it in the planting hole so the top of the root ball is even with the soil line.
4.Fill in around the plant with the soil you removed mixed in a 50:50 ratio with Miracle-Gro® Garden Soil for Trees & Shrubs. This will give the plants instant nutrition and help them grow strong roots.
5.Water thoroughly.
6.Spread a layer of mulch around the plant’s roots, taking care not to mound it against the plant. This will help keep the soil moist.
How to Water Azaleas
Thoroughly soak the soil two to three times per week during the first two months after planting. You can gradually decrease the frequency of watering as the plants become rooted. After three or four months, watering deeply once per week should be sufficient. After the first growing season, plants should not need supplemental water unless it hasn’t rained for two or more weeks.
How to Feed Azaleas
A month after planting, begin feeding azaleas with Miracle-Gro® Water Soluble Azalea, Camellia, Rhododendron Plant Food. In addition to the main plant nutrients, this fertilizer also includes micronutrients such as iron, manganese, and zinc, which are vital for growing azaleas (and other acidic soil-loving plants). Be sure to follow label directions.
How to Prune Azaleas to Control Size and Shape
If you selected azalea types that are good fits for the place they’re growing, you shouldn’t have to prune azaleas hard every year. The best time to prune azaleas is in the spring, right after they bloom.
Start by using hand pruners or loppers to remove any branches that stick out significantly from the rest of the bush. Cut those back to a main branch. Then, decide whether you need to shorten the shrub. To significantly reduce size, cut branches back to a whorl (circle) of leaves farther down on the bush. Always make sure to prune so the bottom of the bush is slightly wider than the top, so sunlight can reach all the leaves.
How to Prune Azaleas to Renew Growth
Old, overgrown azaleas, or azaleas with an empty center, can be rejuvenated with a harsh trim. Renewal pruning is done in the late winter or early spring, before flowering. (You’ll have to go a year without flowers when you do this.)
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月04日
Materials
Spade, hand pruners, loppers, gloves, garden hose and watering wand or nozzle, Miracle-Gro® Garden Soil for Roses or Miracle-Gro® Garden Soil for Flowers or Miracle-Gro® Potting Mix, Miracle-Gro® Shake ’n Feed® Rose & Bloom Plant Food, garden rake, bucket, measuring tape.
How to Choose the Right Roses for Your Garden
Roses are not one size fits all—there are multiple types, from shrub roses to hybrid tea roses, climbing roses, and groundcover roses. The first step in growing roses is selecting the right rose bush or rose plant for your yard or garden. Roses, regardless of the type, grow best in full sun in well-drained soil. Putting the right plant in the right place goes a long way toward growing healthy plants. So which rose is right for you?
Shrub roses are great choices for landscape beds and foundation plantings next to the house. They tend to bloom a few times during the season. There are many new options that are pest and disease resistant. Groundcover roses add a bit of color to hot, dry, sunny areas. They’re drought-tolerant and beautiful when allowed to spill over a wall. Climbing roses are a little less cold hardy than shrub roses, so check the plant information carefully when purchasing. Hybrid teas are the classic ?bouquet? rose, and require the most hands-on care. They’ll reward you with gorgeous cut flowers, though.
How to Plant Roses
Once you’ve selected the sunny, well-drained spot for planting, it’s time to prepare the soil. The way you plant a rose depends on whether it is bareroot (usually sold with roots in a bag with some moist wood chips but no soil) or growing in a pot (container-grown) when you get it.
To plant bareroot roses:
1.Remove plants from their packaging and soak their roots in a bucket of tepid water for an hour.
2.Use a measuring tape to measure the length of the roots (from the tip of the roots to where the roots meet the stem).
3.Dig a hole that is two inches shallower than the length of the roots and twice as wide.
4.Mix equal parts of Miracle-Gro® Garden Soil for Roses (or Miracle-Gro® Garden Soil for Flowers) and the soil removed from the planting hole. If planting in a container, use with Miracle-Gro® Potting Mix. Either way, you are helping ensure that roses receive ample nutrition while establishing new roots in the garden.
5.Using the soil mixture (or potting mix for containers), build a mound in the planting hole that almost reaches to top of the hole.
6.Spread the roots evenly over the mound.
7.Fill in the hole completely with more of the soil mixture, covering the roots. Pack it firmly.
8.Spread a 2-inch layer of mulch on the surface of the planting hole, to help conserve moisture in the soil.
9.Water thoroughly.
To plant roses that come in containers:
1.Remove rose plant from the pot.
2.Use measuring tape to measure the height of the root ball.
3.Dig a planting hole that is two inches shallower than the height of the root ball, and twice as wide.
4.Place the plant in the planting hole. The top of the root ball should be about an inch above the edge of the hole. (Soil will settle over time, so you don’t want to plant the rose too deep.)
5.Mix equal parts of Miracle-Gro® Garden Soil for Roses (or Miracle-Gro® Garden Soil for Flowers) and the soil removed from the planting hole, and fill in around the shrub. Cover the top of the root ball with an inch of the soil mixture. If planting in a pot, use Miracle-Gro® Potting Mix.
6.Cover the surface of the planting hole with 2 inches of mulch, to help keep soil moist.
7.Water thoroughly.
How to Water Roses
Roses need well-drained soil to flourish, but that doesn’t mean they don’t need water. Regular watering is especially important as roses are establishing new roots in the landscape. Roses are fairly drought-tolerant after the first growing season.
For the first 2 months after you first plant a rosebush, give the plant a deep, thorough soaking 2-3 times per week with a hose. If you reach your finger into the soil and the top 2 inches are still moist, however, wait a few days.
For the remainder of the first growing season, water thoroughly a couple of times per week.. Once plants are established in the landscape, you will only need to water roses during drought conditions. If the leaves take on a greyish cast or being to curl, you’ll know the plants need water.
Whenever you water, void getting water on the leaves (an invitation to disease) by directly aiming the water stream at the roots of each plant.
How to Fertilize Roses
First, allow the plants to get settled in the garden. Then, after the first month, feed plants with Miracle-Gro® Shake ’n Feed® Rose & Bloom Plant Food to help replace the nutrition your growing roses have taken up from the soil, so your plant will produce beautiful blooms. Be sure to follow label directions.
How to Prune Roses
Prune roses in very early spring, while they are still dormant.
Prune to reduce overall size by cutting each branch back to an outward-facing bud. Roses can be cut back hard, but we don’t recommend removing more than one-third to one-half of the overall growth. Wear gloves and long sleeves to protect your hands, and use loppers or hand pruners. Do not shear roses.
Remove old, diseased, or dead wood by cutting the affected branches down to the bottom of the plant.
Promote airflow within the shrub by removing crossing or rubbing branches within the center of the shrub. Always cut back to an outward-facing bud. You can remove up to one-half of the growth from within the center of the shrub to promote air movement.
How to Control Rose Pests
Roses can be affected by a variety of fungal, bacterial, and insect issues. Providing the plants with the good care outlined above goes a long way toward preventing these problems, but it isn’t fail-safe. Treat problems with aphids, Japanese beetles, and other pests with Ortho® Rose & Flower Insect Killer Ready-to-Use. For diseases such as black spot and rust, use Ortho® Rose & Flower Insect & Disease Control. Or, consult with your local cooperative extension service for the best course of treatment.
How to Grow Roses: Recap
Select the best type of rose for your garden location.
Prepare the soil and plant the rose bush according to instructions (bareroot or container-grown).
Water regularly while the plant is getting established, and in times of drought after the first growing season.
Feed roses regularly with Miracle-Gro® plant food.
Prune roses when dormant.
Watch out for pests and disease.
Spade, hand pruners, loppers, gloves, garden hose and watering wand or nozzle, Miracle-Gro® Garden Soil for Roses or Miracle-Gro® Garden Soil for Flowers or Miracle-Gro® Potting Mix, Miracle-Gro® Shake ’n Feed® Rose & Bloom Plant Food, garden rake, bucket, measuring tape.
How to Choose the Right Roses for Your Garden
Roses are not one size fits all—there are multiple types, from shrub roses to hybrid tea roses, climbing roses, and groundcover roses. The first step in growing roses is selecting the right rose bush or rose plant for your yard or garden. Roses, regardless of the type, grow best in full sun in well-drained soil. Putting the right plant in the right place goes a long way toward growing healthy plants. So which rose is right for you?
Shrub roses are great choices for landscape beds and foundation plantings next to the house. They tend to bloom a few times during the season. There are many new options that are pest and disease resistant. Groundcover roses add a bit of color to hot, dry, sunny areas. They’re drought-tolerant and beautiful when allowed to spill over a wall. Climbing roses are a little less cold hardy than shrub roses, so check the plant information carefully when purchasing. Hybrid teas are the classic ?bouquet? rose, and require the most hands-on care. They’ll reward you with gorgeous cut flowers, though.
How to Plant Roses
Once you’ve selected the sunny, well-drained spot for planting, it’s time to prepare the soil. The way you plant a rose depends on whether it is bareroot (usually sold with roots in a bag with some moist wood chips but no soil) or growing in a pot (container-grown) when you get it.
To plant bareroot roses:
1.Remove plants from their packaging and soak their roots in a bucket of tepid water for an hour.
2.Use a measuring tape to measure the length of the roots (from the tip of the roots to where the roots meet the stem).
3.Dig a hole that is two inches shallower than the length of the roots and twice as wide.
4.Mix equal parts of Miracle-Gro® Garden Soil for Roses (or Miracle-Gro® Garden Soil for Flowers) and the soil removed from the planting hole. If planting in a container, use with Miracle-Gro® Potting Mix. Either way, you are helping ensure that roses receive ample nutrition while establishing new roots in the garden.
5.Using the soil mixture (or potting mix for containers), build a mound in the planting hole that almost reaches to top of the hole.
6.Spread the roots evenly over the mound.
7.Fill in the hole completely with more of the soil mixture, covering the roots. Pack it firmly.
8.Spread a 2-inch layer of mulch on the surface of the planting hole, to help conserve moisture in the soil.
9.Water thoroughly.
To plant roses that come in containers:
1.Remove rose plant from the pot.
2.Use measuring tape to measure the height of the root ball.
3.Dig a planting hole that is two inches shallower than the height of the root ball, and twice as wide.
4.Place the plant in the planting hole. The top of the root ball should be about an inch above the edge of the hole. (Soil will settle over time, so you don’t want to plant the rose too deep.)
5.Mix equal parts of Miracle-Gro® Garden Soil for Roses (or Miracle-Gro® Garden Soil for Flowers) and the soil removed from the planting hole, and fill in around the shrub. Cover the top of the root ball with an inch of the soil mixture. If planting in a pot, use Miracle-Gro® Potting Mix.
6.Cover the surface of the planting hole with 2 inches of mulch, to help keep soil moist.
7.Water thoroughly.
How to Water Roses
Roses need well-drained soil to flourish, but that doesn’t mean they don’t need water. Regular watering is especially important as roses are establishing new roots in the landscape. Roses are fairly drought-tolerant after the first growing season.
For the first 2 months after you first plant a rosebush, give the plant a deep, thorough soaking 2-3 times per week with a hose. If you reach your finger into the soil and the top 2 inches are still moist, however, wait a few days.
For the remainder of the first growing season, water thoroughly a couple of times per week.. Once plants are established in the landscape, you will only need to water roses during drought conditions. If the leaves take on a greyish cast or being to curl, you’ll know the plants need water.
Whenever you water, void getting water on the leaves (an invitation to disease) by directly aiming the water stream at the roots of each plant.
How to Fertilize Roses
First, allow the plants to get settled in the garden. Then, after the first month, feed plants with Miracle-Gro® Shake ’n Feed® Rose & Bloom Plant Food to help replace the nutrition your growing roses have taken up from the soil, so your plant will produce beautiful blooms. Be sure to follow label directions.
How to Prune Roses
Prune roses in very early spring, while they are still dormant.
Prune to reduce overall size by cutting each branch back to an outward-facing bud. Roses can be cut back hard, but we don’t recommend removing more than one-third to one-half of the overall growth. Wear gloves and long sleeves to protect your hands, and use loppers or hand pruners. Do not shear roses.
Remove old, diseased, or dead wood by cutting the affected branches down to the bottom of the plant.
Promote airflow within the shrub by removing crossing or rubbing branches within the center of the shrub. Always cut back to an outward-facing bud. You can remove up to one-half of the growth from within the center of the shrub to promote air movement.
How to Control Rose Pests
Roses can be affected by a variety of fungal, bacterial, and insect issues. Providing the plants with the good care outlined above goes a long way toward preventing these problems, but it isn’t fail-safe. Treat problems with aphids, Japanese beetles, and other pests with Ortho® Rose & Flower Insect Killer Ready-to-Use. For diseases such as black spot and rust, use Ortho® Rose & Flower Insect & Disease Control. Or, consult with your local cooperative extension service for the best course of treatment.
How to Grow Roses: Recap
Select the best type of rose for your garden location.
Prepare the soil and plant the rose bush according to instructions (bareroot or container-grown).
Water regularly while the plant is getting established, and in times of drought after the first growing season.
Feed roses regularly with Miracle-Gro® plant food.
Prune roses when dormant.
Watch out for pests and disease.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年07月31日
Family - Lauraceae
Stems - Stems to 5m tall, multiple from the base. Twigs glabrous, olive-brown, with small lenticels.
Inflorescence - Staminate flowers in a few-flowered (4-8) fascicle, emerging with the new leaves. Pedicels glabrous, to 3mm long (slightly longer in fruit).
Flowers - Petals absent. Sepals 6, greenish-yellow to scarious-yellow, 2.3mm long, 1.5mm broad, glabrous, rounded at the apex, oblong-obovate. Stamens 9 (in staminate flowers), alternating with smaller capitate staminodes. Filaments glabrous, to 1.8mm long. All floral organs united at the base. Reduced ovary in staminate flowers to -1mm long. Drupe bright red, ovoid, to 1cm long, 5mm broad.
Flowering - March - May.
Habitat - Low moist woods, bottoms, thickets along streams, base of bluffs, seeps along wooded slopes.
Origin - Native to U.S.
Other info. - This shrubby species is easy to identify in the field because of its habitat and its pleasant fragrance. When crushed, the leaves give off a lemon scent that is reminiscent of "Pledge" furniture polish. The small flowers of the plant are some of the first to be seen in the spring. They are short lived and the plant is typically seen with just leaves or in fruit. This is a dioeceous species, meaning plants will have either male or female flowers. Staminate plants typically have many more flowers than pistillate plants.
Natives used a tea made from all parts of the plant to treat ailments such as coughs, cramps, measels, and anemia. Oil from the fruits was applied to bruises. A tea made from the bark was used to expel parasitic worms. The tea is quite good, if a sweetener is added. (give me a break, I'm from the south)
A similar species, L. melissaefolium (Walt.) Blume, is extremely rare in Missouri and is endangered in North America. This latter species occurs in just one southern Missouri County (Ripley). L. melissaefolium has larger fruits than L. benzoin and more rhombic leaves. The leaves are shown below:
Stems - Stems to 5m tall, multiple from the base. Twigs glabrous, olive-brown, with small lenticels.
Inflorescence - Staminate flowers in a few-flowered (4-8) fascicle, emerging with the new leaves. Pedicels glabrous, to 3mm long (slightly longer in fruit).
Flowers - Petals absent. Sepals 6, greenish-yellow to scarious-yellow, 2.3mm long, 1.5mm broad, glabrous, rounded at the apex, oblong-obovate. Stamens 9 (in staminate flowers), alternating with smaller capitate staminodes. Filaments glabrous, to 1.8mm long. All floral organs united at the base. Reduced ovary in staminate flowers to -1mm long. Drupe bright red, ovoid, to 1cm long, 5mm broad.
Flowering - March - May.
Habitat - Low moist woods, bottoms, thickets along streams, base of bluffs, seeps along wooded slopes.
Origin - Native to U.S.
Other info. - This shrubby species is easy to identify in the field because of its habitat and its pleasant fragrance. When crushed, the leaves give off a lemon scent that is reminiscent of "Pledge" furniture polish. The small flowers of the plant are some of the first to be seen in the spring. They are short lived and the plant is typically seen with just leaves or in fruit. This is a dioeceous species, meaning plants will have either male or female flowers. Staminate plants typically have many more flowers than pistillate plants.
Natives used a tea made from all parts of the plant to treat ailments such as coughs, cramps, measels, and anemia. Oil from the fruits was applied to bruises. A tea made from the bark was used to expel parasitic worms. The tea is quite good, if a sweetener is added. (give me a break, I'm from the south)
A similar species, L. melissaefolium (Walt.) Blume, is extremely rare in Missouri and is endangered in North America. This latter species occurs in just one southern Missouri County (Ripley). L. melissaefolium has larger fruits than L. benzoin and more rhombic leaves. The leaves are shown below:
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年07月31日
Family - Amaryllidaceae
Stems - Flowering stems to +10cm tall, herbaceous, typically hirsute but sometimes less so, +/-1mm in diameter, from a corm.
Leaves - Basal, linear, to +15cm long, +3mm broad, pubescent.
Inflorescence - 1-6 flowers terminating the aerial stems, in a crude umbel. Pedicels to +2cm long, pubescent, sometimes subtended by small linear bracts.
Flowers - Tepals 6, spreading, entire, -1cm long, 2-3mm broad, oblong, glabrous internally. Outer tepals pubescent and greenish-yellow externally. Stamens 6, adnate at apex of ovary. Filaments glabrous, 2-3mm long. Anthers orange, 2.1mm long, sagittate. Style 1.5mm long, glabrous. Ovary inferior, 3-locular. Ovules tuberculate, keeled.
Flowering - April - May.
Habitat - Prairies, glades, bluffs, dry woods, fields.
Origin - Native to U.S.
Other info. - This little species is common in Missouri and easily seen growing in fields even though it is quite small. The small yellow flowers open in the morning and typically wilt in hot sun. The amount of pubescence on this species can be variable.
Stems - Flowering stems to +10cm tall, herbaceous, typically hirsute but sometimes less so, +/-1mm in diameter, from a corm.
Leaves - Basal, linear, to +15cm long, +3mm broad, pubescent.
Inflorescence - 1-6 flowers terminating the aerial stems, in a crude umbel. Pedicels to +2cm long, pubescent, sometimes subtended by small linear bracts.
Flowers - Tepals 6, spreading, entire, -1cm long, 2-3mm broad, oblong, glabrous internally. Outer tepals pubescent and greenish-yellow externally. Stamens 6, adnate at apex of ovary. Filaments glabrous, 2-3mm long. Anthers orange, 2.1mm long, sagittate. Style 1.5mm long, glabrous. Ovary inferior, 3-locular. Ovules tuberculate, keeled.
Flowering - April - May.
Habitat - Prairies, glades, bluffs, dry woods, fields.
Origin - Native to U.S.
Other info. - This little species is common in Missouri and easily seen growing in fields even though it is quite small. The small yellow flowers open in the morning and typically wilt in hot sun. The amount of pubescence on this species can be variable.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年07月29日
Family - Commelinaceae
Stems - To 1.5m tall, herbaceous, erect, glabrous, typically glaucous.
Leaves - Alternate, grasslike, glabrous, glaucous, to 30cm long, clasping stem.
Inflorescence- Terminal, umbellate cymes with +/- 20 flowers, one or two flowers opening at a time, subtended by foliaceous bracts.
Flowers - Corolla blue-purple, to 4cm broad. Petals 3. Stamens 6, filaments pilose with purple pubescence. The hairs of the stamens multicellular. Calyx glabrous or with some hairs at tip of sepals. Pedicels to +2.5cm long.
Flowering - May - July.
Habitat - Prairies, disturbed sites, waste ground, open woods, roadsides, railroads.
Origin - Native to U.S.
Other info. - This species is commonly mistaken for a grassy weed by beginners who are delighted to see it bloom. It is the most common species of the genus in Missouri.
The stems are moderately succulent.
Stems - To 1.5m tall, herbaceous, erect, glabrous, typically glaucous.
Leaves - Alternate, grasslike, glabrous, glaucous, to 30cm long, clasping stem.
Inflorescence- Terminal, umbellate cymes with +/- 20 flowers, one or two flowers opening at a time, subtended by foliaceous bracts.
Flowers - Corolla blue-purple, to 4cm broad. Petals 3. Stamens 6, filaments pilose with purple pubescence. The hairs of the stamens multicellular. Calyx glabrous or with some hairs at tip of sepals. Pedicels to +2.5cm long.
Flowering - May - July.
Habitat - Prairies, disturbed sites, waste ground, open woods, roadsides, railroads.
Origin - Native to U.S.
Other info. - This species is commonly mistaken for a grassy weed by beginners who are delighted to see it bloom. It is the most common species of the genus in Missouri.
The stems are moderately succulent.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年07月18日
Family - Alismataceae
Leaves - Petioles thick, terete, spongy, mostly erect but also reclining, to +.75m. Blades sagittate, glabrous.
Inflorescence - Typically shorter than leaves, decumbent. Flowers in whorls or pairs at nodes.
Flowers - Perfect. Petals 3, white with yellow base. Sepals 3, green. Pedicels thick, to 5cm long.
Flowering - June - September.
Habitat - Shallow water, wet areas.
Origin - Native to U.S.
Other info. - This is the only Sagittaria in Missouri with such thick, decumbent pedicels. All other members of the genus in this state have the inflorescence erect and with thin pedicels.
A synonym is Sagittaria calycina Engelm.
Leaves - Petioles thick, terete, spongy, mostly erect but also reclining, to +.75m. Blades sagittate, glabrous.
Inflorescence - Typically shorter than leaves, decumbent. Flowers in whorls or pairs at nodes.
Flowers - Perfect. Petals 3, white with yellow base. Sepals 3, green. Pedicels thick, to 5cm long.
Flowering - June - September.
Habitat - Shallow water, wet areas.
Origin - Native to U.S.
Other info. - This is the only Sagittaria in Missouri with such thick, decumbent pedicels. All other members of the genus in this state have the inflorescence erect and with thin pedicels.
A synonym is Sagittaria calycina Engelm.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年07月16日
Family - Liliaceae
Stems - From bulb. Aerial stems to +25cm tall, 2-3mm in diameter, glabrous, hollow.
Leaves - Basal, linear, glabrous, to +15cm long, 3-4mm broad.
Inflorescence - Umbels of +/-8 flowers terminating aerial stems, subtended by scarious bracts.
Flowers - Tepals 6, greenish at base, fading to white at apex, free, to 1cm long, 3.5mm broad, glabrous, oblong. Stamens 6, borne at base of tepals. Filaments to 4mm long, glabrous. Anthers yellow, 3mm long, 1mm broad. Style 1, glabrous, 4mm long. Ovary superior, glabrous, with 3 locules, many seeded.
Flowering - March - May and perhaps again in early fall.
Habitat - Open fields, prairies, glades, streambanks, roadsides.
Origin - Native to U.S.
Other info. - This is a tiny yet unmistakable lily. It resembles other small lilies such as garlic but has no garlic scent to it and hence acquires the common name "False garlic." It is common throughout most of the state below the Missouri river but does grow in some counties north of the river also.
Stems - From bulb. Aerial stems to +25cm tall, 2-3mm in diameter, glabrous, hollow.
Leaves - Basal, linear, glabrous, to +15cm long, 3-4mm broad.
Inflorescence - Umbels of +/-8 flowers terminating aerial stems, subtended by scarious bracts.
Flowers - Tepals 6, greenish at base, fading to white at apex, free, to 1cm long, 3.5mm broad, glabrous, oblong. Stamens 6, borne at base of tepals. Filaments to 4mm long, glabrous. Anthers yellow, 3mm long, 1mm broad. Style 1, glabrous, 4mm long. Ovary superior, glabrous, with 3 locules, many seeded.
Flowering - March - May and perhaps again in early fall.
Habitat - Open fields, prairies, glades, streambanks, roadsides.
Origin - Native to U.S.
Other info. - This is a tiny yet unmistakable lily. It resembles other small lilies such as garlic but has no garlic scent to it and hence acquires the common name "False garlic." It is common throughout most of the state below the Missouri river but does grow in some counties north of the river also.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年07月16日
Family - Liliaceae
Stems - From bulb. Aerial stems to +40cm tall, glabrous.
Leaves - Basal, linear, -1cm broad, +50cm long, glabrous.
Inflorescence - Typically single flower terminating aerial stem, nodding.
Flowers - Tepals 6, fused at base forming green floral tube to 3cm long, 5mm in diameter. Showy portions (lobes) of perianth 2.6cm broad, +3cm long, truncate or obtuse at apex with small mucronate projection, glabrous, white. Corona (floral cup) fringed with red, yellow below, 1.3cm in diameter, margin crisped, 2-4mm long. Stamens 6, borne near opening of perianth tube. Style 1, 3cm long, glabrous. Ovary inferior, +/-1.8cm long, +/-1cm broad, glabrous, with 3 locules, many seeded, placentation axile.
Flowering - March - May.
Habitat - Cultivated but escaped to fields, disturbed sites, open woods, roadsides.
Origin - Native to Europe.
Other info. - This species is not nearly as common as its relative N. pseudonarcissus L., the Daffodil, but it is still fairly common and found in many areas throughout the state. The floral cup - corona - is much smaller than in N. pseudonarcissus and the perianth lobes are white instead of the typical yellow of N. pseudonarcissus.
Stems - From bulb. Aerial stems to +40cm tall, glabrous.
Leaves - Basal, linear, -1cm broad, +50cm long, glabrous.
Inflorescence - Typically single flower terminating aerial stem, nodding.
Flowers - Tepals 6, fused at base forming green floral tube to 3cm long, 5mm in diameter. Showy portions (lobes) of perianth 2.6cm broad, +3cm long, truncate or obtuse at apex with small mucronate projection, glabrous, white. Corona (floral cup) fringed with red, yellow below, 1.3cm in diameter, margin crisped, 2-4mm long. Stamens 6, borne near opening of perianth tube. Style 1, 3cm long, glabrous. Ovary inferior, +/-1.8cm long, +/-1cm broad, glabrous, with 3 locules, many seeded, placentation axile.
Flowering - March - May.
Habitat - Cultivated but escaped to fields, disturbed sites, open woods, roadsides.
Origin - Native to Europe.
Other info. - This species is not nearly as common as its relative N. pseudonarcissus L., the Daffodil, but it is still fairly common and found in many areas throughout the state. The floral cup - corona - is much smaller than in N. pseudonarcissus and the perianth lobes are white instead of the typical yellow of N. pseudonarcissus.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年07月15日
Family - Asteraceae
Ray flowers - Absent.
Flowering - July - October.
Habitat - Limestone ledges of bluffs, rocky limestone talus, rocky wooded slopes.
Origin - Native to U.S.
Other info. - This species can be found throughout Missouri. The plant is extremely variable and sometimes hard to differentiate from another genus, Eupatorium.
Kuhnia can often have opposite leaves as well as alternate leaves. The stems can be hairy or glabrous. The leaves can be thin or elliptic. Steyermark breaks the species into three vareties. None are valid.
The plant can typically be identified by its thin leaves, thin stems, thin phyllaries, and white flowers.
Ray flowers - Absent.
Flowering - July - October.
Habitat - Limestone ledges of bluffs, rocky limestone talus, rocky wooded slopes.
Origin - Native to U.S.
Other info. - This species can be found throughout Missouri. The plant is extremely variable and sometimes hard to differentiate from another genus, Eupatorium.
Kuhnia can often have opposite leaves as well as alternate leaves. The stems can be hairy or glabrous. The leaves can be thin or elliptic. Steyermark breaks the species into three vareties. None are valid.
The plant can typically be identified by its thin leaves, thin stems, thin phyllaries, and white flowers.
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