Ashtyn Emily Wright
2017年09月14日
Just lifting my Aloe Aristata leaves to give them a little water & I've noticed 3 tiny babies growing on my smaller plant! Very happy he's doing so well 🤗🌱
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月14日
Widely distributed throughout the United States, bacterial canker is most common on cherries and plums, but may also affect apricots, peaches and many other kinds of stone fruits. Suspect this plant disease if sunken, water-soaked or “gummy” lesions form on the trunk or twigs. When trees begin active growth in the spring, a sour smelling sap may ooze from these wounded areas. The cankers become darker than the surrounding healthy bark, and the underlying tissue is reddish-brown to black and moist.
Note: If cankers girdle the branches or trunk, the leaves above the diseased area curl and turn yellow. Growth stops and the branch or tree will eventually die.
The bacterium that causes canker, Pseudomonas syringae, enters trees through injured bark or an existing wound, such as a pruning cut on a twig or branch. Frost damage in the spring may promote additional infections. Bacterial canker infections occur during fall, winter and early spring (during cool, wet weather) and are spread by rain or water, and pruning tools. The bacteria overwinter in active cankers, in infected buds and on the surface of infected and healthy trees and weeds.
Treatment
Prune flowering trees during blooming when wounds heal fastest.
Remove wilted or dead limbs well below infected areas.
Avoid pruning in early spring and fall when bacteria are most active.
Treat all pruning cuts immediately with Tanglefoot® Tree Pruning Sealer and make sure to disinfect your pruning equipment — one part bleach to 4 parts water — after each cut.
If using string trimmers around the base of trees avoid damaging bark with breathable Tree Wrap to prevent infection.
Brush bark with white latex paint diluted with water to reduce bark-damaging temperature fluctuations.
Research has shown that copper fungicides have some success against this stone fruit problem. However, results are inconsistent. We recommend using it as one part of a total management program.
Remove weeds and grass from around the base of young trees to improve air circulation and keep the trunk and crown dry.
Organocide® Plant Doctor is an earth-friendly systemic fungicide that works its way through the entire plant to combat a large number of diseases on ornamentals, turf, fruit and more. Mix 1/3 to 3/4 oz per gallon of water and paint or spray over pruning wounds and surrounding areas.
Note: If cankers girdle the branches or trunk, the leaves above the diseased area curl and turn yellow. Growth stops and the branch or tree will eventually die.
The bacterium that causes canker, Pseudomonas syringae, enters trees through injured bark or an existing wound, such as a pruning cut on a twig or branch. Frost damage in the spring may promote additional infections. Bacterial canker infections occur during fall, winter and early spring (during cool, wet weather) and are spread by rain or water, and pruning tools. The bacteria overwinter in active cankers, in infected buds and on the surface of infected and healthy trees and weeds.
Treatment
Prune flowering trees during blooming when wounds heal fastest.
Remove wilted or dead limbs well below infected areas.
Avoid pruning in early spring and fall when bacteria are most active.
Treat all pruning cuts immediately with Tanglefoot® Tree Pruning Sealer and make sure to disinfect your pruning equipment — one part bleach to 4 parts water — after each cut.
If using string trimmers around the base of trees avoid damaging bark with breathable Tree Wrap to prevent infection.
Brush bark with white latex paint diluted with water to reduce bark-damaging temperature fluctuations.
Research has shown that copper fungicides have some success against this stone fruit problem. However, results are inconsistent. We recommend using it as one part of a total management program.
Remove weeds and grass from around the base of young trees to improve air circulation and keep the trunk and crown dry.
Organocide® Plant Doctor is an earth-friendly systemic fungicide that works its way through the entire plant to combat a large number of diseases on ornamentals, turf, fruit and more. Mix 1/3 to 3/4 oz per gallon of water and paint or spray over pruning wounds and surrounding areas.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月14日
Generally found in the eastern part of the United States, anthracnose is caused by fungi in the genus Colletotrichum, a common group of plant pathogens that are responsible for diseases on many plant species. Infected plants develop dark, water soaked lesions on stems, leaves or fruit. The centers of these lesions often become covered with pink, gelatinous masses of spores especially during moist, warm weather. Anthracnose can reduce a beautiful harvest into rotted waste in just a few days.
The fungal disease overwinters in and on seeds, soil and garden debris. Cool wet weather promotes its development, and the optimum temperature for continued growth of the spores is between 75-85˚F. Moisture is required for development and germination of the fungus as well as for infection of the plant. It is spread by wind, rain, insects and garden tools.
Treatment
Choose resistant plant varieties when possible and use western grown seeds which have not been exposed to the disease.
If this fungal problem is common, do NOT save your own seed from plantings.
To avoid spreading the disease, keep out of gardens when plants are wet and make sure to disinfect all garden tools (one part bleach to 4 parts water) after use.
Do not compost infected leaves, fruit or stems and thoroughly clean up garden areas in the fall, after harvest, to reduce over wintering sites for the fungal spores.
Safely treat most fungal and bacterial diseases with SERENADE Garden. This broad spectrum bio-fungicide uses a patented strain of Bacillus subtilis that is registered for organic use. Best of all, SERENADE is completely non-toxic to honey bees and beneficial insects.
Liquid copper sprays and sulfur powders should be applied weekly, starting when foliage begins to develop in the early spring and continuing throughout the growing season. Spray early in the day, and avoid applications during hot weather. Seeds may also be treated prior to planting.
Neem oil spray is an organic, multi-purpose fungicide/insecticide/miticide that kills eggs, larvae and adult stages of insects as well as prevents fungal attack on plants. Apply early, at the first sign of spring budding, every 7-14 days as a preventative measure or on a 7-day schedule until existing problems are eliminated.
The fungal disease overwinters in and on seeds, soil and garden debris. Cool wet weather promotes its development, and the optimum temperature for continued growth of the spores is between 75-85˚F. Moisture is required for development and germination of the fungus as well as for infection of the plant. It is spread by wind, rain, insects and garden tools.
Treatment
Choose resistant plant varieties when possible and use western grown seeds which have not been exposed to the disease.
If this fungal problem is common, do NOT save your own seed from plantings.
To avoid spreading the disease, keep out of gardens when plants are wet and make sure to disinfect all garden tools (one part bleach to 4 parts water) after use.
Do not compost infected leaves, fruit or stems and thoroughly clean up garden areas in the fall, after harvest, to reduce over wintering sites for the fungal spores.
Safely treat most fungal and bacterial diseases with SERENADE Garden. This broad spectrum bio-fungicide uses a patented strain of Bacillus subtilis that is registered for organic use. Best of all, SERENADE is completely non-toxic to honey bees and beneficial insects.
Liquid copper sprays and sulfur powders should be applied weekly, starting when foliage begins to develop in the early spring and continuing throughout the growing season. Spray early in the day, and avoid applications during hot weather. Seeds may also be treated prior to planting.
Neem oil spray is an organic, multi-purpose fungicide/insecticide/miticide that kills eggs, larvae and adult stages of insects as well as prevents fungal attack on plants. Apply early, at the first sign of spring budding, every 7-14 days as a preventative measure or on a 7-day schedule until existing problems are eliminated.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月14日
A common pest found in greenhouses and indoor/ outdoor gardens, thrips damage plants by sucking their juices and scraping at fruits, flowers and leaves. Plant leaves may turn pale, splotchy, and silvery, then die. Injured plants are twisted, discolored and scarred.
Adults are very small (less than 1/25 inch) straw-colored or black slender insects with two pairs of feathery wings. Without the use of a hand lens, they resemble tiny dark threads.
Damage
Extremely active, thrips feed in large groups. They leap or fly away when disturbed. Host plants include onions, beans, carrots, squash and many other garden vegetables, and many flowers, especially gladioli and roses. Both adults and the wingless larvae are attracted to white, yellow and other light colored blossoms and are responsible for spreading tomato spotted wilt virus and impatiens necrotic spot virus.
Life Cycle
Adults and pupae overwinter in garden soil. In spring, newly emerged females insert eggs into the tissues of flowers, leaves or stems. (They do not need to mate for reproduction.) Each female can produce up to 80 eggs, which hatch within days in warm weather or weeks to months in colder weather. They become wingless larvae (nymphs), which feed on plant sap. After two or more nymphal stages, many thrips drop to the soil to pupate. Emerging adults fly to the plant and repeat the cycle. There may be 12-15 generations per year with the entire cycle from egg to adult requiring less than 16 days in warm weather.
Control
Thrip management is a matter of garden maintenance — reducing the places where thrips may breed — and requires removing plant debris while it’s still on the ground and green. Thrips lay their eggs in slits they cut in live plant stems. Vigilance — spotting problems early and responding to them — is also required. Check your plants for damage and clusters of the pests at the place where leaves are attached to stems. Don’t wait to take action. Take the measures listed below. And be sure to use the safest, most proven products.
To get rid of thrips remove weeds and grass from around garden areas to eliminate alternate hosts. Clean up crop debris in the garden, especially onion leaves after harvest. (Dry mulch will not attract thrips. Green mulch will.)
Inspect all plants you import into the garden for signs of thrips or their damage. Discard any infested plants by securely bagging and putting in the trash.
Blue sticky traps are helpful for monitoring adult populations.
If found, use the Bug Blaster to hose off plants with a strong, encompassing spray of water to reduce pest numbers.
Release commercially available beneficial insects, such as minute pirate bugs, the effective thrips predator (feeds on eggs and larvae before they can become adults), ladybugs, and lacewing, (especially effective in green houses) to attack and destroy all stages of this pest. For best results, make releases after first knocking down severe infestations with water spray or other method.
Severe populations may require a least-toxic, short-lived botanical insecticide (pyrethrin) to reduce pest numbers. Follow-up with predatory insects to maintain control.
Safe, smothering insecticidal soaps made from naturally occurring plant oils and fats, are also effective for knocking down heavy infestations (and won’t harm most naturally occurring beneficial insects). Spinosad and neem oil can be used to spot treat heavily infested areas.
Adults are very small (less than 1/25 inch) straw-colored or black slender insects with two pairs of feathery wings. Without the use of a hand lens, they resemble tiny dark threads.
Damage
Extremely active, thrips feed in large groups. They leap or fly away when disturbed. Host plants include onions, beans, carrots, squash and many other garden vegetables, and many flowers, especially gladioli and roses. Both adults and the wingless larvae are attracted to white, yellow and other light colored blossoms and are responsible for spreading tomato spotted wilt virus and impatiens necrotic spot virus.
Life Cycle
Adults and pupae overwinter in garden soil. In spring, newly emerged females insert eggs into the tissues of flowers, leaves or stems. (They do not need to mate for reproduction.) Each female can produce up to 80 eggs, which hatch within days in warm weather or weeks to months in colder weather. They become wingless larvae (nymphs), which feed on plant sap. After two or more nymphal stages, many thrips drop to the soil to pupate. Emerging adults fly to the plant and repeat the cycle. There may be 12-15 generations per year with the entire cycle from egg to adult requiring less than 16 days in warm weather.
Control
Thrip management is a matter of garden maintenance — reducing the places where thrips may breed — and requires removing plant debris while it’s still on the ground and green. Thrips lay their eggs in slits they cut in live plant stems. Vigilance — spotting problems early and responding to them — is also required. Check your plants for damage and clusters of the pests at the place where leaves are attached to stems. Don’t wait to take action. Take the measures listed below. And be sure to use the safest, most proven products.
To get rid of thrips remove weeds and grass from around garden areas to eliminate alternate hosts. Clean up crop debris in the garden, especially onion leaves after harvest. (Dry mulch will not attract thrips. Green mulch will.)
Inspect all plants you import into the garden for signs of thrips or their damage. Discard any infested plants by securely bagging and putting in the trash.
Blue sticky traps are helpful for monitoring adult populations.
If found, use the Bug Blaster to hose off plants with a strong, encompassing spray of water to reduce pest numbers.
Release commercially available beneficial insects, such as minute pirate bugs, the effective thrips predator (feeds on eggs and larvae before they can become adults), ladybugs, and lacewing, (especially effective in green houses) to attack and destroy all stages of this pest. For best results, make releases after first knocking down severe infestations with water spray or other method.
Severe populations may require a least-toxic, short-lived botanical insecticide (pyrethrin) to reduce pest numbers. Follow-up with predatory insects to maintain control.
Safe, smothering insecticidal soaps made from naturally occurring plant oils and fats, are also effective for knocking down heavy infestations (and won’t harm most naturally occurring beneficial insects). Spinosad and neem oil can be used to spot treat heavily infested areas.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月14日
Sometimes called jumping plant lice, psyllids feed on a variety of plants including most fruit trees and small fruits as well as tomato and potato. Both adults and nymphs feed by piercing the leaf surface and extracting cell sap. This causes foliage (especially the upper leaves) to turn yellow, curl and eventually die. Honeydew secreted by the psyllids encourages the growth of dark sooty molds. Many species transmit disease-carrying viruses.
Adults (1/10 inch long) are reddish brown in color with transparent wings and strong jumping legs. They are very active and will hop or fly away when disturbed. Nymphs are flat and elliptical in shape, almost scale-like. They are less active than adults and are most numerous on the undersides of leaves. Newly hatched nymphs are yellowish in color but turn green as they mature.
Note: Psyllids are monophagous which means that they are host specific (each species feeds on only one plant type).
Life Cycle
Adults overwinter in crevices on tree trunks. In early spring they mate and females begin depositing orange-yellow eggs in the crevices about the buds, and after the foliage is out, on the leaves. Hatching occurs in 4-15 days. Yellow to green nymphs pass through five in instars in 2-3 weeks before reaching the adult stage. There are one to five generations per year depending on species.
Psyllid Control
To get rid of psyllids spray horticultural oil in early spring to destroy overwintering adults and eggs.
Beneficial insects, such as ladybugs and lacewing, are important natural predators of this pest. For best results, make releases when pest levels are low to medium.
If populations are high, use a least-toxic, short-lived natural pesticide to establish control, then release predatory insects to maintain control.
Diatomaceous earth contains no toxic poisons and works quickly on contact. Dust lightly and evenly over vegetable crops wherever adults are found.
Safer® Insecticidal Soap will work fast on heavy infestations. A short-lived natural pesticide, it works by damaging the outer layer of soft-bodied insect pests, causing dehydration and death within hours. Apply 2.5 oz/ gallon of water when insects are present, repeat every 7-10 day as needed.
Surround WP (kaolin clay) forms a protective barrier film, which acts as a broad spectrum crop protectant for preventing damage from insect pests.
70% Neem Oil is approved for organic use and can be sprayed on vegetables, fruit trees and flowers to kill eggs, larvae and adult insects. Mix 1 oz/ gallon of water and spray all leaf surfaces (including the undersides of leaves) until completely wet.
If pest levels become intolerable, spot treat with insecticides approved for organic use every 5-7 days. Thorough coverage of both upper and lower infested leaves is necessary for effective control.
Adults (1/10 inch long) are reddish brown in color with transparent wings and strong jumping legs. They are very active and will hop or fly away when disturbed. Nymphs are flat and elliptical in shape, almost scale-like. They are less active than adults and are most numerous on the undersides of leaves. Newly hatched nymphs are yellowish in color but turn green as they mature.
Note: Psyllids are monophagous which means that they are host specific (each species feeds on only one plant type).
Life Cycle
Adults overwinter in crevices on tree trunks. In early spring they mate and females begin depositing orange-yellow eggs in the crevices about the buds, and after the foliage is out, on the leaves. Hatching occurs in 4-15 days. Yellow to green nymphs pass through five in instars in 2-3 weeks before reaching the adult stage. There are one to five generations per year depending on species.
Psyllid Control
To get rid of psyllids spray horticultural oil in early spring to destroy overwintering adults and eggs.
Beneficial insects, such as ladybugs and lacewing, are important natural predators of this pest. For best results, make releases when pest levels are low to medium.
If populations are high, use a least-toxic, short-lived natural pesticide to establish control, then release predatory insects to maintain control.
Diatomaceous earth contains no toxic poisons and works quickly on contact. Dust lightly and evenly over vegetable crops wherever adults are found.
Safer® Insecticidal Soap will work fast on heavy infestations. A short-lived natural pesticide, it works by damaging the outer layer of soft-bodied insect pests, causing dehydration and death within hours. Apply 2.5 oz/ gallon of water when insects are present, repeat every 7-10 day as needed.
Surround WP (kaolin clay) forms a protective barrier film, which acts as a broad spectrum crop protectant for preventing damage from insect pests.
70% Neem Oil is approved for organic use and can be sprayed on vegetables, fruit trees and flowers to kill eggs, larvae and adult insects. Mix 1 oz/ gallon of water and spray all leaf surfaces (including the undersides of leaves) until completely wet.
If pest levels become intolerable, spot treat with insecticides approved for organic use every 5-7 days. Thorough coverage of both upper and lower infested leaves is necessary for effective control.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月14日
Many species of leafhoppers exist in home gardens throughout North America. Both adults and nymphs feed by puncturing the undersides of leaves and sucking out plant juices. Their toxic saliva causes spotting (white specks), yellowing, leaf curling, stunting and distortion of plants. They are also responsible for transmitting the organisms causing virus diseases in plants. Common host plants include beans, lettuce, beets, potato, grapes, roses and many others.
Leafhopper adults (1/4 inch long) are slender, wedge-shaped insects that fly or disperse rapidly when disturbed. Depending on species they may be green, brown or yellow in color and often have colorful markings. Nymphs do not have wings and are generally lighter in color than adults. Both adults and nymphs run sideways and are good jumpers.
Note: There are more leafhopper species worldwide than all species of birds, mammals, reptiles and amphibians combined.
Life Cycle
Adults overwinter in crop debris or non-cultivated areas adjacent to gardens. In late spring females deposit 1-6 eggs daily within the stems and larger veins of the leaves. Hatching occurs in 6-9 days, and the young nymphs molt 5 times before they become fully grown adults. White cast skins shed by the molting nymphs can often be found attached to the underside of damaged leaves. The period from egg to adult is about three weeks. Several overlapping generations may be completed during the growing season.
Leafhopper Control
Remove garden trash and other debris shortly after harvest to reduce over-wintering sites.
Floating row covers can be used as a physical barrier to keep leafhoppers from damaging plants.
Commercially available beneficial insects, such as ladybugs, lacewing and minute pirate bugs, are all voracious predators of both the egg and young larval stage.
Apply diatomaceous earth to plants and/or spot treat with insecticidal soap to keep pest populations under control. Thorough coverage of both upper and lower infested leaves is necessary for effective control.
If pest levels become intolerable, spot treat with potent, fast-acting organic insecticides as a last resort.
Leafhopper adults (1/4 inch long) are slender, wedge-shaped insects that fly or disperse rapidly when disturbed. Depending on species they may be green, brown or yellow in color and often have colorful markings. Nymphs do not have wings and are generally lighter in color than adults. Both adults and nymphs run sideways and are good jumpers.
Note: There are more leafhopper species worldwide than all species of birds, mammals, reptiles and amphibians combined.
Life Cycle
Adults overwinter in crop debris or non-cultivated areas adjacent to gardens. In late spring females deposit 1-6 eggs daily within the stems and larger veins of the leaves. Hatching occurs in 6-9 days, and the young nymphs molt 5 times before they become fully grown adults. White cast skins shed by the molting nymphs can often be found attached to the underside of damaged leaves. The period from egg to adult is about three weeks. Several overlapping generations may be completed during the growing season.
Leafhopper Control
Remove garden trash and other debris shortly after harvest to reduce over-wintering sites.
Floating row covers can be used as a physical barrier to keep leafhoppers from damaging plants.
Commercially available beneficial insects, such as ladybugs, lacewing and minute pirate bugs, are all voracious predators of both the egg and young larval stage.
Apply diatomaceous earth to plants and/or spot treat with insecticidal soap to keep pest populations under control. Thorough coverage of both upper and lower infested leaves is necessary for effective control.
If pest levels become intolerable, spot treat with potent, fast-acting organic insecticides as a last resort.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月14日
Primarily night feeders, the common earwig (Forficula auricularia) is considered to be an insect pest when it feeds on soft plant shoots, such as corn silks, and eats small holes in foliage and flowers. Sometimes ripened fruits are infested, but damage is usually tolerable. It can be particularly damaging to seedlings. Earwigs also play a beneficial role in the garden, acting as scavengers on decaying organic matter and predators of insect larvae, snails, aphids and other slow moving bugs. They are often carried great distances in produce shipments and other freight.
These slender red-brown insects (3/4 inch long) with elongated, flattened bodies are distinguished by a pair of sharp pincers at the tail end, which they use for capturing prey and mating. A few species have wings, although it is not a strong flier, and usually crawls in search of food. Earwigs get their name from an old superstition that they crawl into the ears of a sleeping person and bore into the brain. While menacing in appearance, they are harmless to man.
Note: Earwigs will occasionally enter the home. However, their presence is accidental and they will not establish themselves or reproduce indoors.
Life Cycle
Adults overwinter in the soil. Females lay 20-50 cream-colored eggs in underground nests during January and February, and the newly hatched young (nymphs) first appear in April. Nymphs are protected in the nest and do not leave until after the first molt, when they must fend for themselves. Young earwigs develop gradually, passing through 4-5 nymphal instars before becoming adults. They are similar in appearance to adults, but lack wings and the large sized pincers. Most species in this country have one generation per year.
Earwig Control
If earwigs become pestiferous there are several effective organic methods that can be used for getting rid of them.
Remove garden debris and excessive mulch where earwigs are living and breeding.
Since earwigs seldom fly, a sticky band of Tanglefoot Pest Barrier around the trunks of trees, shrubs, and woody plants will prevent them from reaching the leaves and fruits on which they feed.
Broadcast Insect Killer Granules around foundations, lawns and landscapes to eliminate or repel all kinds of troublesome pests.
Apply food-grade Diatomaceous Earth for long-lasting protection. Made up of tiny fossilized aquatic organisms, that look like broken glass under the microscope, DE kills by scoring an insect’s outer layer as it crawls over the fine powder. Contains NO toxic poisons!
Scatter Monterey Ant Control, a safe and organic bait containing iron phosphate and spinosad, evenly over the soil around or near areas to be protected.
Least-toxic botanical insecticides should be used as a last resort. Derived from plants which have insecticidal properties, these natural pesticides have fewer harmful side effects than synthetic chemicals and break down more quickly in the environment.
These slender red-brown insects (3/4 inch long) with elongated, flattened bodies are distinguished by a pair of sharp pincers at the tail end, which they use for capturing prey and mating. A few species have wings, although it is not a strong flier, and usually crawls in search of food. Earwigs get their name from an old superstition that they crawl into the ears of a sleeping person and bore into the brain. While menacing in appearance, they are harmless to man.
Note: Earwigs will occasionally enter the home. However, their presence is accidental and they will not establish themselves or reproduce indoors.
Life Cycle
Adults overwinter in the soil. Females lay 20-50 cream-colored eggs in underground nests during January and February, and the newly hatched young (nymphs) first appear in April. Nymphs are protected in the nest and do not leave until after the first molt, when they must fend for themselves. Young earwigs develop gradually, passing through 4-5 nymphal instars before becoming adults. They are similar in appearance to adults, but lack wings and the large sized pincers. Most species in this country have one generation per year.
Earwig Control
If earwigs become pestiferous there are several effective organic methods that can be used for getting rid of them.
Remove garden debris and excessive mulch where earwigs are living and breeding.
Since earwigs seldom fly, a sticky band of Tanglefoot Pest Barrier around the trunks of trees, shrubs, and woody plants will prevent them from reaching the leaves and fruits on which they feed.
Broadcast Insect Killer Granules around foundations, lawns and landscapes to eliminate or repel all kinds of troublesome pests.
Apply food-grade Diatomaceous Earth for long-lasting protection. Made up of tiny fossilized aquatic organisms, that look like broken glass under the microscope, DE kills by scoring an insect’s outer layer as it crawls over the fine powder. Contains NO toxic poisons!
Scatter Monterey Ant Control, a safe and organic bait containing iron phosphate and spinosad, evenly over the soil around or near areas to be protected.
Least-toxic botanical insecticides should be used as a last resort. Derived from plants which have insecticidal properties, these natural pesticides have fewer harmful side effects than synthetic chemicals and break down more quickly in the environment.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月14日
Many species of cutworms from the night-flying moth family Noctuidae are found in home gardens across the United States. The larvae commonly feed on plant stems at or below ground, eventually cutting them down. Cutworms attack a wide variety of plants including beets, cabbage, broccoli, kale and cauliflower.
Cutworm caterpillars (larvae) are stout, soft-bodied, gray or dull brown caterpillars (1-2 inch long) that curl up when at rest or disturbed. They feed at night and burrow into the soil during the day. Adults are dark gray or brown, night-flying moths (1-1/2 inch wingspan) with ragged blotches or stripes on their wings. They do not damage plants.
Note: Pest populations vary greatly from year to year. When numerous, cutworms can destroy up to 75% of a crop.
Life Cycle
Most species pass the winter in soil or under garden waste as young larvae. In the spring, as temperatures warm, they become active and begin feeding on plants at night remaining hidden during the day. The larvae molt several times and when fully grown pupate in the soil (late spring). Within one week moths emerge and begin laying hundreds of eggs mostly on stems and leaves. One to five generations per year, depending upon the species.
Note: Overwintering larvae and the first generation in the spring are the most damaging. A few species pass the winter as pupae or hibernating moths.
Damage
Damage occurs at night when caterpillars feed by clipping off seedling stems and young plants near or just below the soil surface. Often, an entire row of newly planted garden vegetables will be cut off during the night.
Different cutworm species will climb plants doing damage to foliage, buds and shoots. Cutworms are also known to gouge potato tubers. Late season cutworms will tunnel in fruit.
Cut worms, like their close cousins armyworms, will also frequently attack turf grass. The damage they inflict on grass — cutting off blades at the crown — is usually more dispersed than damage from army worms. Cutworms favor golf courses where they cause “ballmark” pockets of dead and missing turf both on fairways and putting greens.
Cutworm Control
Losing precious transplants once to cutworms is all most people require to implement preventive measures as part of an Integrated Pest Management plan. There’s little more heart-breaking than coming out to the garden one morning to find the seedlings you started months ago indoors have been severed at the root.
Tempted to spray chemicals after losing young plants to the slow-moving eating machines? Despite the fact that it will endanger your pets, your children and the environment, pesticide use against cutworm, reports Michigan State University Extension, is “often unsuccessful.”
Preventive Measures
Before planting a new garden remove weeds and plant debris that might feed and shelter developing larvae.
Turn the soil after fall clean up then give birds and other predators a chance to pick off the expose larvae and pupae.
Mow as closely as possible to the edge of your garden to give cutworms less to feed on and less shelter near your plants.
A three-foot wide (or more) bare-soil strip between your lawn and your garden plants makes it harder for larvae to reach your plants. It also gives you more of a chance to spot them.
Wait as late as possible before setting out starts. Cutworms go on the move early in the growing season. Give them a chance to starve before you put out dinner.
Place cardboard collars (or milk containers with the bottom cut out) around transplant stems at planting time. Be sure to work the collar into the soil at least an inch or two.
Plant sunflowers along the edge of your garden. Sunflowers are a favorite target of cutworms. The plants will attract the larvae giving you a chance to pick them from the ground before they head to your corn.
Dealing with Infestations
The presence of many birds feeding in the yard may indicate cutworms in your turf.
Handpick caterpillars after dark. This is often most productive following a rain or thorough watering.
Slow the progress of worms, who don’t like navigating dry soil, by watering in the morning then cultivating your garden’s walkways lightly to a depth of an inch or so. This cultivated soil will dry quickly while trapping moisture beneath it. Do not use mulch which gives the worms shelter.
Beneficial nematodes released in moist, spring soil will attack and destroy cutworms living underground. They’re especially beneficial to apply the season after cutworms have been a problem.
At the first sign of moths, release trichogramma wasps weekly for three consecutive weeks to parasitize cutworm eggs.
Spreading a line of diatomaceous earth around the base of plants sets up a barrier to larvae. Diatomaceous earth, the fossilized, abrasive remains of prehistoric sea life, literally lets you draw a line in the dirt that’s deadly to any larvae that pass over.
Scatter bran or corn meal mixed with Monterey Bt (Bt-kurstaki) and molasses on the soil surface to attract and kill caterpillars. Eco-Bran will also kill caterpillars that feed on it.
Cutworm caterpillars (larvae) are stout, soft-bodied, gray or dull brown caterpillars (1-2 inch long) that curl up when at rest or disturbed. They feed at night and burrow into the soil during the day. Adults are dark gray or brown, night-flying moths (1-1/2 inch wingspan) with ragged blotches or stripes on their wings. They do not damage plants.
Note: Pest populations vary greatly from year to year. When numerous, cutworms can destroy up to 75% of a crop.
Life Cycle
Most species pass the winter in soil or under garden waste as young larvae. In the spring, as temperatures warm, they become active and begin feeding on plants at night remaining hidden during the day. The larvae molt several times and when fully grown pupate in the soil (late spring). Within one week moths emerge and begin laying hundreds of eggs mostly on stems and leaves. One to five generations per year, depending upon the species.
Note: Overwintering larvae and the first generation in the spring are the most damaging. A few species pass the winter as pupae or hibernating moths.
Damage
Damage occurs at night when caterpillars feed by clipping off seedling stems and young plants near or just below the soil surface. Often, an entire row of newly planted garden vegetables will be cut off during the night.
Different cutworm species will climb plants doing damage to foliage, buds and shoots. Cutworms are also known to gouge potato tubers. Late season cutworms will tunnel in fruit.
Cut worms, like their close cousins armyworms, will also frequently attack turf grass. The damage they inflict on grass — cutting off blades at the crown — is usually more dispersed than damage from army worms. Cutworms favor golf courses where they cause “ballmark” pockets of dead and missing turf both on fairways and putting greens.
Cutworm Control
Losing precious transplants once to cutworms is all most people require to implement preventive measures as part of an Integrated Pest Management plan. There’s little more heart-breaking than coming out to the garden one morning to find the seedlings you started months ago indoors have been severed at the root.
Tempted to spray chemicals after losing young plants to the slow-moving eating machines? Despite the fact that it will endanger your pets, your children and the environment, pesticide use against cutworm, reports Michigan State University Extension, is “often unsuccessful.”
Preventive Measures
Before planting a new garden remove weeds and plant debris that might feed and shelter developing larvae.
Turn the soil after fall clean up then give birds and other predators a chance to pick off the expose larvae and pupae.
Mow as closely as possible to the edge of your garden to give cutworms less to feed on and less shelter near your plants.
A three-foot wide (or more) bare-soil strip between your lawn and your garden plants makes it harder for larvae to reach your plants. It also gives you more of a chance to spot them.
Wait as late as possible before setting out starts. Cutworms go on the move early in the growing season. Give them a chance to starve before you put out dinner.
Place cardboard collars (or milk containers with the bottom cut out) around transplant stems at planting time. Be sure to work the collar into the soil at least an inch or two.
Plant sunflowers along the edge of your garden. Sunflowers are a favorite target of cutworms. The plants will attract the larvae giving you a chance to pick them from the ground before they head to your corn.
Dealing with Infestations
The presence of many birds feeding in the yard may indicate cutworms in your turf.
Handpick caterpillars after dark. This is often most productive following a rain or thorough watering.
Slow the progress of worms, who don’t like navigating dry soil, by watering in the morning then cultivating your garden’s walkways lightly to a depth of an inch or so. This cultivated soil will dry quickly while trapping moisture beneath it. Do not use mulch which gives the worms shelter.
Beneficial nematodes released in moist, spring soil will attack and destroy cutworms living underground. They’re especially beneficial to apply the season after cutworms have been a problem.
At the first sign of moths, release trichogramma wasps weekly for three consecutive weeks to parasitize cutworm eggs.
Spreading a line of diatomaceous earth around the base of plants sets up a barrier to larvae. Diatomaceous earth, the fossilized, abrasive remains of prehistoric sea life, literally lets you draw a line in the dirt that’s deadly to any larvae that pass over.
Scatter bran or corn meal mixed with Monterey Bt (Bt-kurstaki) and molasses on the soil surface to attract and kill caterpillars. Eco-Bran will also kill caterpillars that feed on it.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月14日
There are approximately 4,000 aphid species found throughout the world. Low to moderate numbers are usually not harmful to plants and rarely require aphid control. However, heavy infestations will cause leaves to curl, wilt or yellow and stunted plant growth. A general decline in overall plant vigor will also be noticed. Several species can transmit plant diseases, particularly viruses which they pass on during feeding.
Aphids are small (1/8 inch long), soft bodied, pear-shaped insects that may be green, yellow, brown, red or black in color depending on species and food source. Generally adults are wingless, but some can grow wings, especially if populations are high. They have two whip-like antennae at the tip of the head and a pair of tube-like structures, called cornicles, projecting backward out of their hind end.
Note: As they feed, aphids secrete large amounts of a sticky fluid known as honeydew. This sweet goo drips onto plants, attracting ants and promoting a black sooty mold growth on leaves. Cars and lawn furniture that are under infested trees will also be covered with this sticky fluid.
Life Cycle
In spring wingless female aphids hatch from overwintering eggs and soon give birth to many nymphs (males are not present). Young nymphs increase gradually in size and within a week give birth to many more nymphs. This process is repeated several times and results in huge population explosions. As the colony grows, a few of the females develop wings and fly off to other host plants to start new colonies. In late summer and early fall sexual forms (males and females) develop which mate and lay overwintering eggs. There are many overlapping generations per year.
Note: Most aphids, except for the sexual forms, do not have to mate in order to reproduce, and they produce live young, rather than eggs.
Control
Pinch or prune off heavily infested leaves or other plant parts.
Use the Bug Blaster to hose off plants with a strong stream of water and reduce pest numbers.
Commercially available beneficial insects, such as ladybugs and lacewing are important natural predators. For best results, make releases when pest levels are low to medium. If populations are high, use a least-toxic, short-lived natural pesticide to establish control, then release predatory insects to maintain control.
Apply food-grade Diatomaceous Earth for long-lasting protection. Made up of tiny fossilized aquatic organisms, that look like broken glass under the microscope, DE kills by scoring an insect’s outer layer as it crawls over the fine powder. Contains NO toxic poisons!
Safer® Soap will work fast on heavy infestations. A short-lived natural pesticide, it works by damaging the outer layer of soft-bodied insect pests, causing dehydration and death within hours. Apply 2.5 oz/ gallon of water when insects are present, repeat every 7-10 day as needed.
Horticultural oils should be applied early in the season or late in the fall to destroy overwintering eggs.
Fast-acting botanical insecticides should be used as a last resort. Derived from plants which have insecticidal properties, these natural pesticides have fewer harmful side effects than synthetic chemicals and break down more quickly in the environment.
Do not over water or over fertilize – aphids like plants with high nitrogen levels and soft new growth. Use organic fertilizers which release nutrients slowly.
Tip: Ants feed on the honeydew that sucking insects produce and will protect these pests from their natural enemies. An application of Tanglefoot Pest Barrier to the stalks of roses and other woody plants will help keep ants away.
Aphids are small (1/8 inch long), soft bodied, pear-shaped insects that may be green, yellow, brown, red or black in color depending on species and food source. Generally adults are wingless, but some can grow wings, especially if populations are high. They have two whip-like antennae at the tip of the head and a pair of tube-like structures, called cornicles, projecting backward out of their hind end.
Note: As they feed, aphids secrete large amounts of a sticky fluid known as honeydew. This sweet goo drips onto plants, attracting ants and promoting a black sooty mold growth on leaves. Cars and lawn furniture that are under infested trees will also be covered with this sticky fluid.
Life Cycle
In spring wingless female aphids hatch from overwintering eggs and soon give birth to many nymphs (males are not present). Young nymphs increase gradually in size and within a week give birth to many more nymphs. This process is repeated several times and results in huge population explosions. As the colony grows, a few of the females develop wings and fly off to other host plants to start new colonies. In late summer and early fall sexual forms (males and females) develop which mate and lay overwintering eggs. There are many overlapping generations per year.
Note: Most aphids, except for the sexual forms, do not have to mate in order to reproduce, and they produce live young, rather than eggs.
Control
Pinch or prune off heavily infested leaves or other plant parts.
Use the Bug Blaster to hose off plants with a strong stream of water and reduce pest numbers.
Commercially available beneficial insects, such as ladybugs and lacewing are important natural predators. For best results, make releases when pest levels are low to medium. If populations are high, use a least-toxic, short-lived natural pesticide to establish control, then release predatory insects to maintain control.
Apply food-grade Diatomaceous Earth for long-lasting protection. Made up of tiny fossilized aquatic organisms, that look like broken glass under the microscope, DE kills by scoring an insect’s outer layer as it crawls over the fine powder. Contains NO toxic poisons!
Safer® Soap will work fast on heavy infestations. A short-lived natural pesticide, it works by damaging the outer layer of soft-bodied insect pests, causing dehydration and death within hours. Apply 2.5 oz/ gallon of water when insects are present, repeat every 7-10 day as needed.
Horticultural oils should be applied early in the season or late in the fall to destroy overwintering eggs.
Fast-acting botanical insecticides should be used as a last resort. Derived from plants which have insecticidal properties, these natural pesticides have fewer harmful side effects than synthetic chemicals and break down more quickly in the environment.
Do not over water or over fertilize – aphids like plants with high nitrogen levels and soft new growth. Use organic fertilizers which release nutrients slowly.
Tip: Ants feed on the honeydew that sucking insects produce and will protect these pests from their natural enemies. An application of Tanglefoot Pest Barrier to the stalks of roses and other woody plants will help keep ants away.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月14日
Taxonomy and Botany of Virginia Creeper
Plant taxonomy classifies Virginia creeper (or "woodbine") as Parthenocissus quinquefolia. Engleman's ivy (Parthenocissus quinquefolia 'engelmannii') is an example of a cultivar (sometimes given as 'engelmanii'). Another is 'Red Wall', but its fall foliage color can be disappointing.
Parthenocissus quinquefolia is considered by botanists to be a deciduous, woody vine.
Plant Characteristics, Outstanding Feature
Grasping for support with its tendrils, Parthenocissus quinquefolia can climb as high as 50 feet. Its leaves, comprised of five leaflets, morph from their summer green into a fall foliage color ranging from reddish-orange to burgundy. This spectacular change occurring in autumn earns the plant a spot on my list of the top shrubs and vines for fall color. The flowers are not much to look at, but Virginia creeper berries are a pleasing dark blue.
No doubt, its fall foliage color is the outstanding feature of the vine. Along with sumac shrub, another native in my region (New England, United States), Parthenocissus quinquefolia is one of the unsung heroes of the fall foliage season.
Name Origins: Virgins and Misnomers
Parthenocissus is a backward translation (and a rather lame one, frankly) from the English, with a healthy dose of poetic license. Partheno- means "virgin" (as in "Virginia") and cissus translates as "ivy." Virginia creeper is, indeed, native to Virginia but is not a true ivy, so this part of the botanical name is misleading.
Meanwhile, the species name, quinquefolia, refers to the five leaflets of which each of the leaves is comprised. The second part of the common name is also misleading, in that the vine is a climber, not a creeping vine. This misnomer is the reason why it makes my list of ten plant names confusing to beginners.
USDA Plant Hardiness Zones, Sun and Soil Requirements for Virginia Creeper
Parthenocissus quinquefolia is indigenous to eastern North America and can be grown in planting zones 3-9.
Although tolerant of shade, the vines are more likely to achieve optimal autumn color if grown in full sun to part shade. Grow it in a well-drained soil.
Killing Virginia Creeper
Some folks dislike its aggressive growth habits and are intent on killing Virginia creeper. Since it grows so high, it is impractical to try killing Virginia creeper (a mature plant, that is) by spraying its leaves. Instead, cut the vine's trunk (near ground level), then apply the strongest concentrate of glyphosate (Roundup) you can buy to the fresh wound. An organic method of killing Virginia creeper is to dig it out, but this is easier said than done, as the plant spreads via rhizomes.
Is Virginia Creeper Poisonous?
Since Virginia creeper is one of the plants mistaken for poison ivy, many people wonder if it is "poisonous" in the sense that poison ivy is poisonous. Reader, Paula Brooks has informed me that the sap flowing through Virginia creeper vines does contain oxalate crystals, which -- for a small portion of the population -- can irritate the skin.
So you could get a nasty skin rash from brushing up against the plant, even though it is perhaps unlikely for the average person. Nor should you eat Virginia creeper berries.
Warnings, Uses in the Yard
If you live in eastern North America, you probably do not need to grow Parthenocissus quinquefolia in your yard, because chances are good that it is growing nearby anyway, perhaps along a road you drive every day (where you can get your fill of it).
But if you live somewhere where Parthenocissus quinquefolia is not a native plant, perhaps you have considered growing it (many have). If so, keep some warnings about this vine in mind:
Virginia creeper is a vigorous grower and may get out of hand if not kept in check with equal vigor. Therefore, it would not be a good plant choice for you if you seek low-maintenance landscaping.
Sticky, disk-like appendages on its tendrils adhere to wall siding, making it difficult to remove. Removal could, in fact, cause damage to the wall. So do not grow this plant on walls unless you wish it to be permanent!
Virginia creeper will climb trees and cast shade on their leaves, thus depriving them of needed sunlight. Do not allow it to grow on specimen trees!
But this plant does have viable uses in the landscape, and here are some possible solutions to the above problems (in order), should you wish to grow it in your landscaping:
Grow Engleman's ivy; this cultivar is considered less vigorous.
If you want the look of a wall covered with Virginia creeper, but without the risk, install a sturdy trellis near the wall and grow Parthenocissus quinquefolia on the trellis (keeping it well trimmed).
Do not allow Virginia creeper to grow on specimen trees! Instead, grow it on garden arbors, on pergolas, or on fences.
Plant taxonomy classifies Virginia creeper (or "woodbine") as Parthenocissus quinquefolia. Engleman's ivy (Parthenocissus quinquefolia 'engelmannii') is an example of a cultivar (sometimes given as 'engelmanii'). Another is 'Red Wall', but its fall foliage color can be disappointing.
Parthenocissus quinquefolia is considered by botanists to be a deciduous, woody vine.
Plant Characteristics, Outstanding Feature
Grasping for support with its tendrils, Parthenocissus quinquefolia can climb as high as 50 feet. Its leaves, comprised of five leaflets, morph from their summer green into a fall foliage color ranging from reddish-orange to burgundy. This spectacular change occurring in autumn earns the plant a spot on my list of the top shrubs and vines for fall color. The flowers are not much to look at, but Virginia creeper berries are a pleasing dark blue.
No doubt, its fall foliage color is the outstanding feature of the vine. Along with sumac shrub, another native in my region (New England, United States), Parthenocissus quinquefolia is one of the unsung heroes of the fall foliage season.
Name Origins: Virgins and Misnomers
Parthenocissus is a backward translation (and a rather lame one, frankly) from the English, with a healthy dose of poetic license. Partheno- means "virgin" (as in "Virginia") and cissus translates as "ivy." Virginia creeper is, indeed, native to Virginia but is not a true ivy, so this part of the botanical name is misleading.
Meanwhile, the species name, quinquefolia, refers to the five leaflets of which each of the leaves is comprised. The second part of the common name is also misleading, in that the vine is a climber, not a creeping vine. This misnomer is the reason why it makes my list of ten plant names confusing to beginners.
USDA Plant Hardiness Zones, Sun and Soil Requirements for Virginia Creeper
Parthenocissus quinquefolia is indigenous to eastern North America and can be grown in planting zones 3-9.
Although tolerant of shade, the vines are more likely to achieve optimal autumn color if grown in full sun to part shade. Grow it in a well-drained soil.
Killing Virginia Creeper
Some folks dislike its aggressive growth habits and are intent on killing Virginia creeper. Since it grows so high, it is impractical to try killing Virginia creeper (a mature plant, that is) by spraying its leaves. Instead, cut the vine's trunk (near ground level), then apply the strongest concentrate of glyphosate (Roundup) you can buy to the fresh wound. An organic method of killing Virginia creeper is to dig it out, but this is easier said than done, as the plant spreads via rhizomes.
Is Virginia Creeper Poisonous?
Since Virginia creeper is one of the plants mistaken for poison ivy, many people wonder if it is "poisonous" in the sense that poison ivy is poisonous. Reader, Paula Brooks has informed me that the sap flowing through Virginia creeper vines does contain oxalate crystals, which -- for a small portion of the population -- can irritate the skin.
So you could get a nasty skin rash from brushing up against the plant, even though it is perhaps unlikely for the average person. Nor should you eat Virginia creeper berries.
Warnings, Uses in the Yard
If you live in eastern North America, you probably do not need to grow Parthenocissus quinquefolia in your yard, because chances are good that it is growing nearby anyway, perhaps along a road you drive every day (where you can get your fill of it).
But if you live somewhere where Parthenocissus quinquefolia is not a native plant, perhaps you have considered growing it (many have). If so, keep some warnings about this vine in mind:
Virginia creeper is a vigorous grower and may get out of hand if not kept in check with equal vigor. Therefore, it would not be a good plant choice for you if you seek low-maintenance landscaping.
Sticky, disk-like appendages on its tendrils adhere to wall siding, making it difficult to remove. Removal could, in fact, cause damage to the wall. So do not grow this plant on walls unless you wish it to be permanent!
Virginia creeper will climb trees and cast shade on their leaves, thus depriving them of needed sunlight. Do not allow it to grow on specimen trees!
But this plant does have viable uses in the landscape, and here are some possible solutions to the above problems (in order), should you wish to grow it in your landscaping:
Grow Engleman's ivy; this cultivar is considered less vigorous.
If you want the look of a wall covered with Virginia creeper, but without the risk, install a sturdy trellis near the wall and grow Parthenocissus quinquefolia on the trellis (keeping it well trimmed).
Do not allow Virginia creeper to grow on specimen trees! Instead, grow it on garden arbors, on pergolas, or on fences.
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0
文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月14日
Whiteflies are tiny, heart-shaped flies that rest in very large numbers on the undersides of leaves. When the plant is disturbed or brushed up against, the flies will fly out in a great, sudden cloud. These annoying insects aren't only a nasty surprise for plant owners—who find themselves engulfed in swarms of flies—their nymphs and various larval stages attach to the plant's soft tissues and feed on the plant.
Like other sucking insects, they also secrete honeydew, which raises the risk of fungal diseases and attracting still other pests.
Whiteflies are nothing if not prolific. They hatch from tiny, cone-shaped eggs into small scale-like insects that can travel along the plant's stems. The scales molt into nymphs, which then go through several more growth stages before going into a brief resting stage then emerging as adult flies. During almost every step of their development, they continue to feed on the plant. The whole lifecycle takes about 30 days, but this varies depending on the temperature. In warmer weather, they reproduce more quickly, and in colder weather, their growth cycle is slowed.
Whiteflies are a common problem in greenhouses, warm climates, and indoors. They cannot tolerate cold weather, but an indoor whitefly infestation can quickly spiral out of control. It's best to treat whiteflies at the first sign of infection.
How to Get Rid of Whiteflies
Like most pests, the best control for whiteflies is defensive. Healthy, vigorous plants are less susceptible to infestation than weak, underpotted, and stressed plants. As a general rule, make sure your plants are healthy, and you're less likely to attract these annoying critters in the first place.
If you see whiteflies on your indoor plants, there are several control options:
Vacuum them away. Being careful not to damage the plant, you can use your vacuum cleaner's hose attachment to hoover up adult whiteflies. Make sure that any newly hatched whiteflies can't escape from your vacuum bag!
Sticky tape. The same sticky tape that works for houseflies can be used for whiteflies. Hang it from the infected plant if possible and follow label directions.
Insecticidal soap. Insecticidal soaps are available on the market (such as Safer's Insecticidal Soap), or you can make your own by using a dish detergent such as Ivory Liquid. Try to find a product free of perfumes and additives that might harm plants. Mix the soap in a weak concentration with water (starting a 1 teaspoon per gallon and increasing as necessary). Spray on plants. These will help control the population but are unlikely to wipe them out.
Neem oil. Neem oil is derived from the neem tree. Use according to label instructions. In addition to its insecticidal properties, neem is also a fungicide and has systemic benefits (meaning the plant absorbs it so it can control insects it doesn't directly contact). According to the Environmental Protection Association, neem is safe for use on vegetables and food plants as well as ornamentals. Like insecticidal soap, neem is useful for controlling whitefly populations but might not eliminate the problem.
Kitchen insect spray. This all-purpose insect spray was developed by the editors of Organic Gardening magazine and came to me by way of Rodale's Organic Gardener's Handbook of Natural Insect and Disease Control. To make a batch, combine 1 garlic bulb, 1 small onion, and 1 teaspoon of cayenne pepper in a food processor or blender and process into a paste. Mix into 1 quart of water and steep for 1 hour. Strain through a cheesecloth and add 1 tablespoon of liquid dish soap. Mix well. The mixture can be stored for up to 1 week in the refrigerator.
Like other sucking insects, they also secrete honeydew, which raises the risk of fungal diseases and attracting still other pests.
Whiteflies are nothing if not prolific. They hatch from tiny, cone-shaped eggs into small scale-like insects that can travel along the plant's stems. The scales molt into nymphs, which then go through several more growth stages before going into a brief resting stage then emerging as adult flies. During almost every step of their development, they continue to feed on the plant. The whole lifecycle takes about 30 days, but this varies depending on the temperature. In warmer weather, they reproduce more quickly, and in colder weather, their growth cycle is slowed.
Whiteflies are a common problem in greenhouses, warm climates, and indoors. They cannot tolerate cold weather, but an indoor whitefly infestation can quickly spiral out of control. It's best to treat whiteflies at the first sign of infection.
How to Get Rid of Whiteflies
Like most pests, the best control for whiteflies is defensive. Healthy, vigorous plants are less susceptible to infestation than weak, underpotted, and stressed plants. As a general rule, make sure your plants are healthy, and you're less likely to attract these annoying critters in the first place.
If you see whiteflies on your indoor plants, there are several control options:
Vacuum them away. Being careful not to damage the plant, you can use your vacuum cleaner's hose attachment to hoover up adult whiteflies. Make sure that any newly hatched whiteflies can't escape from your vacuum bag!
Sticky tape. The same sticky tape that works for houseflies can be used for whiteflies. Hang it from the infected plant if possible and follow label directions.
Insecticidal soap. Insecticidal soaps are available on the market (such as Safer's Insecticidal Soap), or you can make your own by using a dish detergent such as Ivory Liquid. Try to find a product free of perfumes and additives that might harm plants. Mix the soap in a weak concentration with water (starting a 1 teaspoon per gallon and increasing as necessary). Spray on plants. These will help control the population but are unlikely to wipe them out.
Neem oil. Neem oil is derived from the neem tree. Use according to label instructions. In addition to its insecticidal properties, neem is also a fungicide and has systemic benefits (meaning the plant absorbs it so it can control insects it doesn't directly contact). According to the Environmental Protection Association, neem is safe for use on vegetables and food plants as well as ornamentals. Like insecticidal soap, neem is useful for controlling whitefly populations but might not eliminate the problem.
Kitchen insect spray. This all-purpose insect spray was developed by the editors of Organic Gardening magazine and came to me by way of Rodale's Organic Gardener's Handbook of Natural Insect and Disease Control. To make a batch, combine 1 garlic bulb, 1 small onion, and 1 teaspoon of cayenne pepper in a food processor or blender and process into a paste. Mix into 1 quart of water and steep for 1 hour. Strain through a cheesecloth and add 1 tablespoon of liquid dish soap. Mix well. The mixture can be stored for up to 1 week in the refrigerator.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月14日
Spotting Spider Tree Mites in the Garden
Spider tree mites are among the most commonly found pests in gardens. Hundreds of different species are categorized as spider mites, which are members of the Tetranychidae family. These critters can damage plants by sucking on the tissues, mainly in the leaves. The mites often cluster on the undersides of the leaves.
Eight-legged arachnids, they belong to the same class as spiders and are closely related to ticks. Like spiders, they will produce webbing on the plant. Spider mites come in a wide variety of colors, including red, yellow, green and brown. Some even change colors throughout the year, while others are translucent.
Use the tips that follow to identify signs of an infestation, the common trees spider mites target and the different ways to control them.
Signs of a Spider Mite Infestation
Spider tree mites leave visible signs of damage to trees. If your leaves develop yellow, orange, brown or gray spots, an infestation may be at work. Other signs of infestation include the following:
Leaf drop
Webbing covering the plant
Visual confirmation of the presence of mites
Common Tree and Shrub Hosts
While any tree or shrub may fall prey to spider mites, some often serve as hosts. They include:
Broadleaf evergreens
Elms
Evergreens
Fruit trees
Honeylocust
Maples
Mountain ash
Oaks
Roses
Try Biological Controls First
Several different insects and arachnids are natural predators of spider mites. Encourage these helpers by limiting the use of chemicals in the garden. Natural predators include:
Big-eyed bugs (Geocoris spp.)
Gall midge (Feltiella acari Suga)
Lacewings (Chrysopa spp.)
Minute pirate bugs (Orius app)
Predatory mites (Phytoseiidae Family)
Predatory thrips (Scolothrips spp.)
Spider mite destroyer (Stethorus app. - a genus of lady beetle)
Organic Controls
Horticultural oils and insecticidal soaps are organic methods for controlling spider mites. For example, oil from the neem tree (Azadirachta indica) can be used as an organic miticide. The timing of when you apply these oils depends on the product used, so consult with someone at your local garden center, nursery or extension center to figure out the right one for your situation.
Combining a couple of tablespoons of natural soap in a quart of water provides an inexpensive and safe way to attack spider mites. Don't add extra soap, as too much may cause leaf damage. For an added punch, include garlic or cayenne.
Water as a Control
Spider mites attack plants that are suffering from drought, so proper watering is essential to help ward off these invaders. Water is also useful in controlling spider mite infestations on houseplants, where it is harder to bring in natural predators and the use of chemicals is undesirable. Use a faucet or hose to knock off mites and webbing, making sure to hit both sides of the leaves. You could also set it in a bathtub to help make this process less messy, if indoors.
Spider tree mites are among the most commonly found pests in gardens. Hundreds of different species are categorized as spider mites, which are members of the Tetranychidae family. These critters can damage plants by sucking on the tissues, mainly in the leaves. The mites often cluster on the undersides of the leaves.
Eight-legged arachnids, they belong to the same class as spiders and are closely related to ticks. Like spiders, they will produce webbing on the plant. Spider mites come in a wide variety of colors, including red, yellow, green and brown. Some even change colors throughout the year, while others are translucent.
Use the tips that follow to identify signs of an infestation, the common trees spider mites target and the different ways to control them.
Signs of a Spider Mite Infestation
Spider tree mites leave visible signs of damage to trees. If your leaves develop yellow, orange, brown or gray spots, an infestation may be at work. Other signs of infestation include the following:
Leaf drop
Webbing covering the plant
Visual confirmation of the presence of mites
Common Tree and Shrub Hosts
While any tree or shrub may fall prey to spider mites, some often serve as hosts. They include:
Broadleaf evergreens
Elms
Evergreens
Fruit trees
Honeylocust
Maples
Mountain ash
Oaks
Roses
Try Biological Controls First
Several different insects and arachnids are natural predators of spider mites. Encourage these helpers by limiting the use of chemicals in the garden. Natural predators include:
Big-eyed bugs (Geocoris spp.)
Gall midge (Feltiella acari Suga)
Lacewings (Chrysopa spp.)
Minute pirate bugs (Orius app)
Predatory mites (Phytoseiidae Family)
Predatory thrips (Scolothrips spp.)
Spider mite destroyer (Stethorus app. - a genus of lady beetle)
Organic Controls
Horticultural oils and insecticidal soaps are organic methods for controlling spider mites. For example, oil from the neem tree (Azadirachta indica) can be used as an organic miticide. The timing of when you apply these oils depends on the product used, so consult with someone at your local garden center, nursery or extension center to figure out the right one for your situation.
Combining a couple of tablespoons of natural soap in a quart of water provides an inexpensive and safe way to attack spider mites. Don't add extra soap, as too much may cause leaf damage. For an added punch, include garlic or cayenne.
Water as a Control
Spider mites attack plants that are suffering from drought, so proper watering is essential to help ward off these invaders. Water is also useful in controlling spider mite infestations on houseplants, where it is harder to bring in natural predators and the use of chemicals is undesirable. Use a faucet or hose to knock off mites and webbing, making sure to hit both sides of the leaves. You could also set it in a bathtub to help make this process less messy, if indoors.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月14日
Hopefully, your trees and shrubs will never be attacked by beetles. They bore into the plant, destroying the nutrient transport system and weakening the overall health. If the infestation is serious enough, death may occur. They are very hard to control, but here are some ways to get rid of beetles:
Choose Trees and Shrubs Wisely and Keep Them Healthy
This may seem very obvious, but it's best if you take steps to try not to have a beetle infestation at all.
This begins by choosing trees and shrubs that are adapted to growing in your area; species that are poorly adapted will struggle and have health issues. Make sure it is planted properly and watered well to help limit the amount of stress the tree goes through. If you keep the plant healthy, it has a much better chance of not being attacked, and a better chance of surviving if it is.
Keep the tree or shrub free of cuts and breaks. Do not do your pruning when beetles are known to be in the area. Don't leave newly cut firewood nearby, as this will provide a place for the beetles to breed.
Different beetles attack different kinds of trees and shrubs, so don't plant the kinds affected if there have been known infestations in the area. You can also try species known to have some resistance.
Hire a Licensed Pesticide Applicator to Apply Appropriate Pesticides
It is difficult to control beetles using chemical means unless the beetle attacks are detected very early.
The pesticides used are also very expensive and not usually available to homeowners. However, if you have valuable trees that you would like to try to save, call in a licensed pesticide applicator. They may be able to save trees by spraying the trunks when the adults are flying.
Trees and shrubs that were attacked in the past but no longer have beetles should not be sprayed.
Neither should you spray species that are not affected by the type of beetle present. Trees that are highly infested cannot be saved by pesticides.
Prune Away Affected Branches
If the beetle problem is noticed early enough, you can prune off any branches that have been attacked. However, you should be careful when doing this, as new pruning wounds may attract more beetles. Learn the months when the adult beetles are flying and try to avoid pruning during those times.
Cut Down Affected Trees and Shrubs
Sadly, cutting down the affected trees or shrubs is the only sure-fire way of controlling beetles in most cases. Usually, by the time the problem is noticed, the infestation is too widespread to be controlled. Pesticides are not able to wipe out large beetle populations, nor pruning if the whole plant is affected.
If you have many susceptible trees together, thinning them out can help improve the chances of the remaining trees' survival.
Cut down the affected tree or shrub entirely and destroy the wood. The pieces should be chipped or burned to destroy any beetle larvae. Be sure to move it far away from your remaining trees and shrubs or the beetles may find a new home.
Choose Trees and Shrubs Wisely and Keep Them Healthy
This may seem very obvious, but it's best if you take steps to try not to have a beetle infestation at all.
This begins by choosing trees and shrubs that are adapted to growing in your area; species that are poorly adapted will struggle and have health issues. Make sure it is planted properly and watered well to help limit the amount of stress the tree goes through. If you keep the plant healthy, it has a much better chance of not being attacked, and a better chance of surviving if it is.
Keep the tree or shrub free of cuts and breaks. Do not do your pruning when beetles are known to be in the area. Don't leave newly cut firewood nearby, as this will provide a place for the beetles to breed.
Different beetles attack different kinds of trees and shrubs, so don't plant the kinds affected if there have been known infestations in the area. You can also try species known to have some resistance.
Hire a Licensed Pesticide Applicator to Apply Appropriate Pesticides
It is difficult to control beetles using chemical means unless the beetle attacks are detected very early.
The pesticides used are also very expensive and not usually available to homeowners. However, if you have valuable trees that you would like to try to save, call in a licensed pesticide applicator. They may be able to save trees by spraying the trunks when the adults are flying.
Trees and shrubs that were attacked in the past but no longer have beetles should not be sprayed.
Neither should you spray species that are not affected by the type of beetle present. Trees that are highly infested cannot be saved by pesticides.
Prune Away Affected Branches
If the beetle problem is noticed early enough, you can prune off any branches that have been attacked. However, you should be careful when doing this, as new pruning wounds may attract more beetles. Learn the months when the adult beetles are flying and try to avoid pruning during those times.
Cut Down Affected Trees and Shrubs
Sadly, cutting down the affected trees or shrubs is the only sure-fire way of controlling beetles in most cases. Usually, by the time the problem is noticed, the infestation is too widespread to be controlled. Pesticides are not able to wipe out large beetle populations, nor pruning if the whole plant is affected.
If you have many susceptible trees together, thinning them out can help improve the chances of the remaining trees' survival.
Cut down the affected tree or shrub entirely and destroy the wood. The pieces should be chipped or burned to destroy any beetle larvae. Be sure to move it far away from your remaining trees and shrubs or the beetles may find a new home.
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