文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月02日
Considered one of the most dangerous plants in the world, the sandbox tree isn’t suitable for home landscapes, or any landscape actually. That being said, it is an interesting plant and one that deserves understanding. Read on to learn more about this deadly, but intriguing, tree.
What Is a Sandbox Tree?
A member of the spurge family, the sandbox tree (Hura crepitans) grows 90 to 130 feet tall in its native environment. You can easily recognize the tree by its gray bark covered with cone-shaped spikes. The tree has distinctly different male and female flowers. Once fertilized, the female flowers produce the pods containing the sandbox tree’s exploding seeds. Sandbox tree fruit looks like little pumpkins, but once they dry into seed capsules, they become ticking time bombs. When fully mature, they explode with a loud bang and fling their hard, flattened seeds at speeds of up to 150 miles per hour and distances of over 60 feet. The shrapnel can seriously injure any person or animal in its path. As bad as this is, the exploding seed pods are only one of the ways that a sandbox tree can inflict harm.
Where Does the Sandbox Tree Grow?
The sandbox tree is native primarily to tropical parts of South America and the Amazonian Rainforest, although it is sometimes found in tropical parts of North America. In addition, it has been introduced into Tanzania in Eastern Africa, where it is considered invasive. The tree can only grow in frost-free areas similar to U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 10 and 11. It needs moist, sandy-loamy soil in an area with full or partial sun.
Sandbox Tree Poison
The fruit of the sandbox tree is poisonous, causing vomiting, diarrhea and cramps if ingested. The tree sap is said to cause an angry red rash, and it can blind you if it gets in your eyes. It has been used to make poison darts. Although very poisonous, parts of the tree have been used for medicinal purposes: Oil extracted from the seeds acts as a purgative. The leaves are said to treat eczema. When properly prepared, extracts are said to treat rheumatism and intestinal worms. Please don’t try any of these treatments at home. In order to be safe and effective, they must be expertly prepared and applied by a healthcare professional.
Additional Sandbox Tree Facts
Central and South American natives use dried sections of seed pods, seeds and tree spikes to make jewelry. The sections of seed pod are comma-shaped and ideal for carving little dolphins and porpoises. The tree gets its name from little bowls made from the fruit that were once used to hold fine, dry sand. The sand was used for blotting ink before the time of blotting paper. Other names include monkey’s dinner bell, monkey’s pistol, and possumwood.
You should never plant a sandbox tree. It is too dangerous to have around people or animals, and when planted in isolated areas it is likely to spread. Disclaimer: The contents of this article is for educational and gardening purposes only. It is not intended for treatments or planting of any kind. Before using ANY herb or plant for medicinal purposes, please consult a physician or a medical herbalist for advice.
What Is a Sandbox Tree?
A member of the spurge family, the sandbox tree (Hura crepitans) grows 90 to 130 feet tall in its native environment. You can easily recognize the tree by its gray bark covered with cone-shaped spikes. The tree has distinctly different male and female flowers. Once fertilized, the female flowers produce the pods containing the sandbox tree’s exploding seeds. Sandbox tree fruit looks like little pumpkins, but once they dry into seed capsules, they become ticking time bombs. When fully mature, they explode with a loud bang and fling their hard, flattened seeds at speeds of up to 150 miles per hour and distances of over 60 feet. The shrapnel can seriously injure any person or animal in its path. As bad as this is, the exploding seed pods are only one of the ways that a sandbox tree can inflict harm.
Where Does the Sandbox Tree Grow?
The sandbox tree is native primarily to tropical parts of South America and the Amazonian Rainforest, although it is sometimes found in tropical parts of North America. In addition, it has been introduced into Tanzania in Eastern Africa, where it is considered invasive. The tree can only grow in frost-free areas similar to U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 10 and 11. It needs moist, sandy-loamy soil in an area with full or partial sun.
Sandbox Tree Poison
The fruit of the sandbox tree is poisonous, causing vomiting, diarrhea and cramps if ingested. The tree sap is said to cause an angry red rash, and it can blind you if it gets in your eyes. It has been used to make poison darts. Although very poisonous, parts of the tree have been used for medicinal purposes: Oil extracted from the seeds acts as a purgative. The leaves are said to treat eczema. When properly prepared, extracts are said to treat rheumatism and intestinal worms. Please don’t try any of these treatments at home. In order to be safe and effective, they must be expertly prepared and applied by a healthcare professional.
Additional Sandbox Tree Facts
Central and South American natives use dried sections of seed pods, seeds and tree spikes to make jewelry. The sections of seed pod are comma-shaped and ideal for carving little dolphins and porpoises. The tree gets its name from little bowls made from the fruit that were once used to hold fine, dry sand. The sand was used for blotting ink before the time of blotting paper. Other names include monkey’s dinner bell, monkey’s pistol, and possumwood.
You should never plant a sandbox tree. It is too dangerous to have around people or animals, and when planted in isolated areas it is likely to spread. Disclaimer: The contents of this article is for educational and gardening purposes only. It is not intended for treatments or planting of any kind. Before using ANY herb or plant for medicinal purposes, please consult a physician or a medical herbalist for advice.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月02日
Plum leaf sand cherry, also referred to as purple leaf sand cherry plants, is a medium sized ornamental shrub or small tree that when mature reaches a height of approximately 8 feet tall by 8 feet wide. This easy care plant makes a great addition to the landscape.
About Plum Leaf Sand Cherry
Purple leaf sand cherry (Prunus x cistena) is a member of the Rose family. Prunus is Latin for ‘plum’ while cistena is the Sioux word for ‘baby’ in reference to its smallish size. The “x” is indicative of the shrub’s hybridism.
This Prunus hybrid is useful as an ornamental specimen due to its beautiful red, maroon, or purple foliage. The shrub grows at a moderate rate and is suitable in USDA zones 2-8. The parent plants of sandcherry bush hail from Western Asia (Prunus cerasifera) and the Northeastern United States (Prunus pumila).
This purplish-red leafed plant has an oval growth habit gradually maturing into an arched form and opening out from the center of the shrub. The stunning 2-inch long, serrated foliage emerges crimson-purple and remains throughout the summer, gradually changing to a green-bronze hue in the fall. Around early spring, the plant’s pink buds open into whitish-pink flowers – the same time as the red foliage. The innocuous blooms become small black-purple fruit barely noticeable without contrast to the purple foliage in July. The multiple gray-brown trunks are prone to trunk fissuring and cankers, which ooze sap.
How to Grow a Purple Leaf Sand Cherry
This specimen is urban tolerant and establishes rapidly to lend a brilliant pop of color to the landscape. So how do you grow a purple leaf sand cherry? Sand cherry is readily available through the local nursery and/or propagated via rooted stem cuttings. Sand cherry is sensitive to being transplanted in the autumn, so extra care should be taken in amending the soil, fertilizing, mulching heavily and watering thoroughly. Ideally, you should plant the purple leaf sand cherry in full to partial sun exposure in moist, well-draining soil. However, the sand cherry bush is adaptable to lesser soils, drought, heat and over aggressive pruning.
Sand Cherry Plant Care
Because, the sand cherry is a member of the Rose family, it is susceptible to several diseases, such as trunk canker, and pests, like borers and Japanese beetle assaults in mid-summer. It also has a short lifespan at between 10 to 15 years primarily due to assault by pests or diseases. Other than these issues, the sand cherry plant care is relatively fuss free and is tolerant of a variety of conditions – hardy in cold winters and hot summers. Prune the sand cherry bush to remove heavy branching that will weigh the plant down. It can even be pruned into a formal hedge or used in borders, at entranceways or in group plantings.
About Plum Leaf Sand Cherry
Purple leaf sand cherry (Prunus x cistena) is a member of the Rose family. Prunus is Latin for ‘plum’ while cistena is the Sioux word for ‘baby’ in reference to its smallish size. The “x” is indicative of the shrub’s hybridism.
This Prunus hybrid is useful as an ornamental specimen due to its beautiful red, maroon, or purple foliage. The shrub grows at a moderate rate and is suitable in USDA zones 2-8. The parent plants of sandcherry bush hail from Western Asia (Prunus cerasifera) and the Northeastern United States (Prunus pumila).
This purplish-red leafed plant has an oval growth habit gradually maturing into an arched form and opening out from the center of the shrub. The stunning 2-inch long, serrated foliage emerges crimson-purple and remains throughout the summer, gradually changing to a green-bronze hue in the fall. Around early spring, the plant’s pink buds open into whitish-pink flowers – the same time as the red foliage. The innocuous blooms become small black-purple fruit barely noticeable without contrast to the purple foliage in July. The multiple gray-brown trunks are prone to trunk fissuring and cankers, which ooze sap.
How to Grow a Purple Leaf Sand Cherry
This specimen is urban tolerant and establishes rapidly to lend a brilliant pop of color to the landscape. So how do you grow a purple leaf sand cherry? Sand cherry is readily available through the local nursery and/or propagated via rooted stem cuttings. Sand cherry is sensitive to being transplanted in the autumn, so extra care should be taken in amending the soil, fertilizing, mulching heavily and watering thoroughly. Ideally, you should plant the purple leaf sand cherry in full to partial sun exposure in moist, well-draining soil. However, the sand cherry bush is adaptable to lesser soils, drought, heat and over aggressive pruning.
Sand Cherry Plant Care
Because, the sand cherry is a member of the Rose family, it is susceptible to several diseases, such as trunk canker, and pests, like borers and Japanese beetle assaults in mid-summer. It also has a short lifespan at between 10 to 15 years primarily due to assault by pests or diseases. Other than these issues, the sand cherry plant care is relatively fuss free and is tolerant of a variety of conditions – hardy in cold winters and hot summers. Prune the sand cherry bush to remove heavy branching that will weigh the plant down. It can even be pruned into a formal hedge or used in borders, at entranceways or in group plantings.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月02日
Purple leaf sand cherry (Prunus x cistena) is a hardy shrub that belongs to the rose family. This striking plant, also known as plum leaf sand cherry, is valued for its reddish-purple foliage and pale pink blooms. Purple leaf sand cherry care involves regular pruning. Read on for tips on how to prune a purple leaf sand cherry.
When to Prune Plum Leaf Sand Cherries
The best time to prune plum leaf sand cherries is just before new growth emerges in spring. This timing ensures the plant has plenty of time to recover and produce gorgeous blooms for the coming season.
Pruning Plum Leaf Sand Cherry
Purple leaf sand cherry pruning isn’t complicated. Prune the oldest stems first, removing at least one-third of growth down to within a few inches from the base. Additionally, cut damaged or dead growth at the base of the shrub. The branches will be sturdy, so be sure your cutting tool is sharp. When old and damaged growth has been removed, thin out wayward growth and branches that are rubbing or crossing other branches. If the plant looks a bit straggly, you can remove twigs to keep it tidy throughout the season.
Be sure to make each cut about 1/4-inch above a node or a point where one stem is growing from another. Lastly, snip off any suckers that form at the base of the plant. If the purple leaf sand cherry is badly overgrown or neglected, you can rejuvenate the plant by cutting it nearly to the ground in late winter, shortly before the plant emerges from dormancy. Rake the area under the shrub after pruning. If you are pruning to remove diseased growth, dispose of the clippings carefully. Never place diseased debris in the compost pile.
Additional Purple Leaf Sand Cherry Care
Water purple leaf sand cherry regularly during the first growing season. Usually, one watering per week is ample, or whenever the top 1 to 2 inches of soil feels dry to the touch. Thereafter, water only during extended periods of hot, dry weather. One feeding every spring is sufficient for purple leaf sand cherry. Any balanced, general-purpose fertilizer is fine. Otherwise, plum leaf sand cherry is easy to get along with and requires little care. However, the plant is susceptible to a number of plant diseases such as:
Root rot
Powdery mildew
Leaf curl
Fire blight
Honey fungus
A sunny location, well-drained soil and adequate air circulation around plants are the best ways to avoid these moisture-related diseases.
Purple leaf sand cherry is also bothered by several pests, including:
Aphids
Japanese beetles
Leafhoppers
Scale
Caterpillars
Most insects can be controlled by blasting the affected leaves with a strong blast of water, or by spraying the foliage with insecticidal soap. Unfortunately, despite your best attempts, pests and disease may shorten the life span of purple leaf sand cherry.
When to Prune Plum Leaf Sand Cherries
The best time to prune plum leaf sand cherries is just before new growth emerges in spring. This timing ensures the plant has plenty of time to recover and produce gorgeous blooms for the coming season.
Pruning Plum Leaf Sand Cherry
Purple leaf sand cherry pruning isn’t complicated. Prune the oldest stems first, removing at least one-third of growth down to within a few inches from the base. Additionally, cut damaged or dead growth at the base of the shrub. The branches will be sturdy, so be sure your cutting tool is sharp. When old and damaged growth has been removed, thin out wayward growth and branches that are rubbing or crossing other branches. If the plant looks a bit straggly, you can remove twigs to keep it tidy throughout the season.
Be sure to make each cut about 1/4-inch above a node or a point where one stem is growing from another. Lastly, snip off any suckers that form at the base of the plant. If the purple leaf sand cherry is badly overgrown or neglected, you can rejuvenate the plant by cutting it nearly to the ground in late winter, shortly before the plant emerges from dormancy. Rake the area under the shrub after pruning. If you are pruning to remove diseased growth, dispose of the clippings carefully. Never place diseased debris in the compost pile.
Additional Purple Leaf Sand Cherry Care
Water purple leaf sand cherry regularly during the first growing season. Usually, one watering per week is ample, or whenever the top 1 to 2 inches of soil feels dry to the touch. Thereafter, water only during extended periods of hot, dry weather. One feeding every spring is sufficient for purple leaf sand cherry. Any balanced, general-purpose fertilizer is fine. Otherwise, plum leaf sand cherry is easy to get along with and requires little care. However, the plant is susceptible to a number of plant diseases such as:
Root rot
Powdery mildew
Leaf curl
Fire blight
Honey fungus
A sunny location, well-drained soil and adequate air circulation around plants are the best ways to avoid these moisture-related diseases.
Purple leaf sand cherry is also bothered by several pests, including:
Aphids
Japanese beetles
Leafhoppers
Scale
Caterpillars
Most insects can be controlled by blasting the affected leaves with a strong blast of water, or by spraying the foliage with insecticidal soap. Unfortunately, despite your best attempts, pests and disease may shorten the life span of purple leaf sand cherry.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月02日
A wide variety of palms, like sago palms, date palms or ponytail palms, will produce offshoots that are commonly known as pups. These palm pups are an excellent way to propagate the plant, but you need to know how to transplant a palm pup from the mother plant. Below you will find the steps for transplanting palm pups and tips for growing palm pups once you have transplanted them.
How to Transplant a Palm Pup
Before you remove a palm pup from the mother plant, you need to make sure that the palm pup is large enough to be taken from the mother plant. A palm offshoot should stay on the mother plant for at least one year. Allowing it to stay two to five years is ideal though, as this will allow the palm pup to develop its own healthy root system, which will in turn increase your success rate with transplanting the palm pups.
Also, the more pups a palm tree has, the slower the pups will grow. If you plan on transplanting palm pups from a palm tree that has several pups, you may be best off selecting one to two of the strongest pups and removing the others.
To check to see if a palm pup is ready to be transplanted, remove some of the dirt around the palm pup. Do this carefully, as damage palm pup roots tend to die back and this will set the pup back. Look for developed roots on the palm pup. If the pup has roots, it can be transplanted. But keep in mind, more roots equals a better transplant so if the roots are sparse, you may want to wait longer. Once the palm pups have a sufficient root system, they are ready to be removed from the mother tree. First, remove the dirt from around the palm pup, making sure not to damage the roots. We recommend that you leave a ball of soil intact around the main root ball to help minimize damage to the roots. After the soil is removed, use a sharp knife to cut the palm pup away from the mother plant. Make sure that the palm pup comes away from the mother plant with plenty of roots.
Tips for Growing Palm Pups
Once the palm pup is removed from the mother plant, move it immediately to a container filled with damp, nutrient rich potting soil. When you plant the palm pup, it should sit with the base with the start of the leaves above the soil line. After the palm pup is in the container, cover the container with a plastic bag. Do not allow the plastic to touch the growing palm pup. Using sticks to keep the plastic off the palm pup is helpful. Place the palm pup in a location where it will get bright but indirect light. Check the transplanted palm pup frequently to make sure the soil stays moist.
Once you see that the palm pup is putting out growth on its own, you can remove the plastic bag. You can transplant your established palm pup into the ground in either the spring or the fall. Make sure to provide plenty of water to your palm pup for at least the first year after it has been moved into the ground.
How to Transplant a Palm Pup
Before you remove a palm pup from the mother plant, you need to make sure that the palm pup is large enough to be taken from the mother plant. A palm offshoot should stay on the mother plant for at least one year. Allowing it to stay two to five years is ideal though, as this will allow the palm pup to develop its own healthy root system, which will in turn increase your success rate with transplanting the palm pups.
Also, the more pups a palm tree has, the slower the pups will grow. If you plan on transplanting palm pups from a palm tree that has several pups, you may be best off selecting one to two of the strongest pups and removing the others.
To check to see if a palm pup is ready to be transplanted, remove some of the dirt around the palm pup. Do this carefully, as damage palm pup roots tend to die back and this will set the pup back. Look for developed roots on the palm pup. If the pup has roots, it can be transplanted. But keep in mind, more roots equals a better transplant so if the roots are sparse, you may want to wait longer. Once the palm pups have a sufficient root system, they are ready to be removed from the mother tree. First, remove the dirt from around the palm pup, making sure not to damage the roots. We recommend that you leave a ball of soil intact around the main root ball to help minimize damage to the roots. After the soil is removed, use a sharp knife to cut the palm pup away from the mother plant. Make sure that the palm pup comes away from the mother plant with plenty of roots.
Tips for Growing Palm Pups
Once the palm pup is removed from the mother plant, move it immediately to a container filled with damp, nutrient rich potting soil. When you plant the palm pup, it should sit with the base with the start of the leaves above the soil line. After the palm pup is in the container, cover the container with a plastic bag. Do not allow the plastic to touch the growing palm pup. Using sticks to keep the plastic off the palm pup is helpful. Place the palm pup in a location where it will get bright but indirect light. Check the transplanted palm pup frequently to make sure the soil stays moist.
Once you see that the palm pup is putting out growth on its own, you can remove the plastic bag. You can transplant your established palm pup into the ground in either the spring or the fall. Make sure to provide plenty of water to your palm pup for at least the first year after it has been moved into the ground.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月02日
Cutting back a palm tree will not make it grow faster. This myth has caused gardeners to do extensive palm tree pruning that doesn’t help and can hurt the tree. Pruning palm plants, like any plant pruning, must be undertaken carefully. If you want to know how and when to prune a palm tree to make it stronger and healthier, read on.
Trimming a Palm Tree
Some experts recommend avoiding all palm tree pruning, but most suggest you avoid cutting too much or too often. When should you think about pruning palm plants?
Think about cutting back a palm tree if you notice dead or dying fronds. Removing these fronds by pruning palm plants not only prevents breakage damage, it also eliminates nesting places for rats, scorpions and other pests. Another good reason to start trimming a palm tree is when it has become a fire hazard or visual hazard in your yard. If it blocks the views from your driveway or sidewalk, you’ll have to start palm tree pruning.
How and When to Prune a Palm Tree
Experts recommend that you wait until spring to prune your palm tree. Those dead fronds may be somewhat unattractive, but they will help protect the palm from summer’s heat and winter’s cold. Sterilize and sharpen your pruning tools before you begin. Generally, you’ll need pruners, garden knives and pruning saws when you are trimming a palm tree. Wear safety glasses and protective gloves, as well as heavy pants and a shirt with long sleeves. Remove any hanging, dead or unhealthy fronds. All dry, wilted or diseased fronds should be removed. On the other hand, when you are pruning palm plants, don’t think you need to prune green, healthy fronds. There is no biological reason to do so and it can stress the tree. Be sure not to remove green fronds growing horizontally or pointing up.
What to Avoid When Cutting Back a Palm Tree
When cutting back a palm tree, don’t remove most of the fronds. Some gardeners make the mistake of doing this every year, and the tree becomes weak and unhealthy. In fact, leave as many green fronds as you possibly can on the palm. Palms need many green fronds to produce a steady food supply so that the plant can grow. A palm tree cannot stay healthy and build reserves without a considerable number of green fronds.
And resist the urge to start pruning palm plants for cosmetic reasons. Pruning them into pineapple shapes or skinning their trunks weaken the trees.
Trimming a Palm Tree
Some experts recommend avoiding all palm tree pruning, but most suggest you avoid cutting too much or too often. When should you think about pruning palm plants?
Think about cutting back a palm tree if you notice dead or dying fronds. Removing these fronds by pruning palm plants not only prevents breakage damage, it also eliminates nesting places for rats, scorpions and other pests. Another good reason to start trimming a palm tree is when it has become a fire hazard or visual hazard in your yard. If it blocks the views from your driveway or sidewalk, you’ll have to start palm tree pruning.
How and When to Prune a Palm Tree
Experts recommend that you wait until spring to prune your palm tree. Those dead fronds may be somewhat unattractive, but they will help protect the palm from summer’s heat and winter’s cold. Sterilize and sharpen your pruning tools before you begin. Generally, you’ll need pruners, garden knives and pruning saws when you are trimming a palm tree. Wear safety glasses and protective gloves, as well as heavy pants and a shirt with long sleeves. Remove any hanging, dead or unhealthy fronds. All dry, wilted or diseased fronds should be removed. On the other hand, when you are pruning palm plants, don’t think you need to prune green, healthy fronds. There is no biological reason to do so and it can stress the tree. Be sure not to remove green fronds growing horizontally or pointing up.
What to Avoid When Cutting Back a Palm Tree
When cutting back a palm tree, don’t remove most of the fronds. Some gardeners make the mistake of doing this every year, and the tree becomes weak and unhealthy. In fact, leave as many green fronds as you possibly can on the palm. Palms need many green fronds to produce a steady food supply so that the plant can grow. A palm tree cannot stay healthy and build reserves without a considerable number of green fronds.
And resist the urge to start pruning palm plants for cosmetic reasons. Pruning them into pineapple shapes or skinning their trunks weaken the trees.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月02日
Almost everyone who lives near oak trees has seen the small balls hanging in the tree branches, yet many still may ask: “What are oak galls?” Oak apple galls look like small, round fruit but they are actually plant deformities caused by oak apple gall wasps. The galls generally do not damage the oak tree host. If you want to know how to get rid of oak galls, read on for oak apple gall treatment.
Oak Apple Gall Information
So what are oak galls? Oak apple galls appear in oak trees, most often black, scarlet and red oaks. They get their common name from the fact that they are round, like small apples, and hang in the trees.
Oak apple gall information tells us that galls are formed when a female oak apple gall wasp lays eggs in the central vein on an oak leaves. When the larvae hatch, chemical and hormone interaction between the wasp eggs and the oak causes the tree to grow the round gall.
Galls are essential to developing oak apple gall wasps. The gall provides a safe home as well as food for the young wasps. Each gall contains only one young wasp. If the galls you see are green with brown spots, they are still forming. At this stage, the galls feel a little rubbery. The galls get bigger as the larvae get bigger. When the galls dry out, the oak apple gall wasps fly from small holes in the galls.
Oak Apple Gall Treatment
Many homeowners assume that the galls damage the oak trees. If you think so, you’ll want to know how to get rid of oak galls. It is true that oak trees look odd after their leaves fall and the branches are hung with galls. However, the oak apple galls do not injure the tree. At the worst, a severe infestation might make leaves fall early.
If you still want to know how to get rid of oak gall wasps, you can rid the tree of galls by snipping them off with a sterilized pruner before they are dry.
Oak Apple Gall Information
So what are oak galls? Oak apple galls appear in oak trees, most often black, scarlet and red oaks. They get their common name from the fact that they are round, like small apples, and hang in the trees.
Oak apple gall information tells us that galls are formed when a female oak apple gall wasp lays eggs in the central vein on an oak leaves. When the larvae hatch, chemical and hormone interaction between the wasp eggs and the oak causes the tree to grow the round gall.
Galls are essential to developing oak apple gall wasps. The gall provides a safe home as well as food for the young wasps. Each gall contains only one young wasp. If the galls you see are green with brown spots, they are still forming. At this stage, the galls feel a little rubbery. The galls get bigger as the larvae get bigger. When the galls dry out, the oak apple gall wasps fly from small holes in the galls.
Oak Apple Gall Treatment
Many homeowners assume that the galls damage the oak trees. If you think so, you’ll want to know how to get rid of oak galls. It is true that oak trees look odd after their leaves fall and the branches are hung with galls. However, the oak apple galls do not injure the tree. At the worst, a severe infestation might make leaves fall early.
If you still want to know how to get rid of oak gall wasps, you can rid the tree of galls by snipping them off with a sterilized pruner before they are dry.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月02日
The neem tree (Azadirachta indica) has caught the attention of gardeners in recent years for the benefits of its oil, a safe and effective herbicide. However, that’s just the beginning of the story. This versatile plant, native to tropical India and Asia, is a valuable tree with many uses. Read on for neem tree information, including neem tree benefits and uses.
Uses of Neem Tree
Oil – Familiar primarily to organic gardeners in the United States, neem oil is made by pressing the oil-rich neem seeds. The oil is highly effective against a variety of pests, including:
Aphids
Mealybugs
Fungus gnats
Whiteflies
It is also useful as a natural insect repellent and is often incorporated into shampoo, soap, lotion and other skin care products. Additionally, the oil makes a great fungicide for issues like powdery mildew, black spot and sooty mold.
Bark – Neem bark isn’t widely used, although its anti-inflammatory and antiseptic properties make it a useful treatment for gum disease in mouthwash form. Traditionally, natives chewed the twigs, which served as effective, impromptu toothbrushes. The sticky bark resin is commonly used as glue. Flowers – Neem tree is widely appreciated for its sweet aroma, which honeybees love. The oil is also valued for its calming effect. Wood – Neem is a fast-growing tree that tolerates poor growing conditions and drought-prone soil. As a result, the wood is a critical source of clean-burning firewood in many frost-free regions of the world.
Cake – “Cake” refers to the pulpy substance that is leftover after oil is extracted from the seeds. It is an effective fertilizer and mulch, often used to discourage diseases like mildew and rust. It is sometimes used as livestock fodder. Leaves – In paste form, neem leaves are used as a skin treatment, primarily for fungus, warts or chicken pox.
How to Grow a Neem Tree
Neem is a hardy tree that can tolerate temperatures up to 120 F. (50 C.). However, extended cool weather with temperatures below 35 F. (5 C.) will cause the tree to drop its leaves. The tree won’t tolerate colder temperatures, wet climates or prolonged drought. That being said, if you can locate fresh neem tree seeds, you can grow a tree indoors in a pot filled with good quality, well-drained potting soil. Outdoors, plant fresh neem seeds directly in the ground, or start them in trays or pots and transplant them outdoors at about three months. If you have access to mature trees, you can root the cuttings in late fall or early winter.
Neem Tree Growth and Care
Neem trees require plenty of bright sunlight. The trees benefit from regular moisture, but be careful not to overwater, as the tree won’t tolerate wet feet or poorly drained soil. Allow the soil to dry between every watering. Feed the tree about once a month in spring and summer, using a light application of any good quality, balanced fertilizer or a dilute solution of water-soluble fertilizer. You can also apply a diluted fish emulsion.
Uses of Neem Tree
Oil – Familiar primarily to organic gardeners in the United States, neem oil is made by pressing the oil-rich neem seeds. The oil is highly effective against a variety of pests, including:
Aphids
Mealybugs
Fungus gnats
Whiteflies
It is also useful as a natural insect repellent and is often incorporated into shampoo, soap, lotion and other skin care products. Additionally, the oil makes a great fungicide for issues like powdery mildew, black spot and sooty mold.
Bark – Neem bark isn’t widely used, although its anti-inflammatory and antiseptic properties make it a useful treatment for gum disease in mouthwash form. Traditionally, natives chewed the twigs, which served as effective, impromptu toothbrushes. The sticky bark resin is commonly used as glue. Flowers – Neem tree is widely appreciated for its sweet aroma, which honeybees love. The oil is also valued for its calming effect. Wood – Neem is a fast-growing tree that tolerates poor growing conditions and drought-prone soil. As a result, the wood is a critical source of clean-burning firewood in many frost-free regions of the world.
Cake – “Cake” refers to the pulpy substance that is leftover after oil is extracted from the seeds. It is an effective fertilizer and mulch, often used to discourage diseases like mildew and rust. It is sometimes used as livestock fodder. Leaves – In paste form, neem leaves are used as a skin treatment, primarily for fungus, warts or chicken pox.
How to Grow a Neem Tree
Neem is a hardy tree that can tolerate temperatures up to 120 F. (50 C.). However, extended cool weather with temperatures below 35 F. (5 C.) will cause the tree to drop its leaves. The tree won’t tolerate colder temperatures, wet climates or prolonged drought. That being said, if you can locate fresh neem tree seeds, you can grow a tree indoors in a pot filled with good quality, well-drained potting soil. Outdoors, plant fresh neem seeds directly in the ground, or start them in trays or pots and transplant them outdoors at about three months. If you have access to mature trees, you can root the cuttings in late fall or early winter.
Neem Tree Growth and Care
Neem trees require plenty of bright sunlight. The trees benefit from regular moisture, but be careful not to overwater, as the tree won’t tolerate wet feet or poorly drained soil. Allow the soil to dry between every watering. Feed the tree about once a month in spring and summer, using a light application of any good quality, balanced fertilizer or a dilute solution of water-soluble fertilizer. You can also apply a diluted fish emulsion.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月01日
Originating in Japan, contorted mulberry trees (Morus alba) thrive in USDA plant hardiness zones 5 through 9. This deciduous, rapidly growing plant can easily reach 20 to 30 feet high and 15 to 20 feet wide if not controlled. This tree is also known as a contorted “Unryu” mulberry.
Contorted Mulberry Info
The leaves of this attractive tree are a light green color and somewhat glossy and heart-shaped. They turn yellow in the fall. From mid to late summer, small yellow flowers bloom followed by fruit similar in shape and size to a blackberry. Fruit is white and ripens to a pink or light violet. Depending on variety, it can take up to ten years for a tree to start producing fruit. A distinguishing feature of this interesting tree is the contorted or twisted branches that are often used in flower arrangements, which help to give these plants the name ‘corkscrew mulberries'.
Growing Contorted Unryu Mulberries
Many people plant contorted mulberries as an ornamental plant in the home landscape. They bring great interest during all garden seasons and draw wildlife with their fruit and foliage. Mulberry trees do best in full to part sun and require ample water while they are establishing, although they are drought tolerant once roots are established. Some people plant varieties in large containers where their growth can be controlled. They make lovely patio plants and are popular because of their fast growth.
Care of Contorted Mulberry
Mulberry trees need space to spread out; 15 feet between trees is recommended. Provide supplemental water during dry conditions. If the soil conditions become too dry, fruit drop will occur. An annual feeding using a 10-10-10 fertilizer will keep the tree at its best. Pruning is only necessary to remove dead or damaged limbs and to limit crowding and control growth.
Harvesting and Using Fruit
Pick fruit early in the morning when it is at the peak of ripeness. It will be deep red to almost black when it is ready. Spread a sheet on the ground and gently shake the tree. The fruit will fall to the ground. Use immediately or wash, dry and freeze. This delicious berry is great for jams, pies or when eaten fresh.
Contorted Mulberry Info
The leaves of this attractive tree are a light green color and somewhat glossy and heart-shaped. They turn yellow in the fall. From mid to late summer, small yellow flowers bloom followed by fruit similar in shape and size to a blackberry. Fruit is white and ripens to a pink or light violet. Depending on variety, it can take up to ten years for a tree to start producing fruit. A distinguishing feature of this interesting tree is the contorted or twisted branches that are often used in flower arrangements, which help to give these plants the name ‘corkscrew mulberries'.
Growing Contorted Unryu Mulberries
Many people plant contorted mulberries as an ornamental plant in the home landscape. They bring great interest during all garden seasons and draw wildlife with their fruit and foliage. Mulberry trees do best in full to part sun and require ample water while they are establishing, although they are drought tolerant once roots are established. Some people plant varieties in large containers where their growth can be controlled. They make lovely patio plants and are popular because of their fast growth.
Care of Contorted Mulberry
Mulberry trees need space to spread out; 15 feet between trees is recommended. Provide supplemental water during dry conditions. If the soil conditions become too dry, fruit drop will occur. An annual feeding using a 10-10-10 fertilizer will keep the tree at its best. Pruning is only necessary to remove dead or damaged limbs and to limit crowding and control growth.
Harvesting and Using Fruit
Pick fruit early in the morning when it is at the peak of ripeness. It will be deep red to almost black when it is ready. Spread a sheet on the ground and gently shake the tree. The fruit will fall to the ground. Use immediately or wash, dry and freeze. This delicious berry is great for jams, pies or when eaten fresh.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月01日
Don’t let the fluffy flowers and lacy foliage fool you. Mimosa trees may not be the perfect ornamental for your garden. If you read up on mimosa tree facts before you plant, you will learn that mimosa is a short-lived tree with weak wood. Moreover, these trees are invasive; they readily escape cultivation and establish in clumps of mimosa tree weeds in disturbed roadside areas, shading out native species. Read on for information on mimosa tree management and control of mimosa trees.
Mimosa Tree Facts
Nobody can deny that the pink pompom flowers of the mimosa tree are attractive. They appear in late spring and early summer on the tips of the small tree’s spreading branches. The tree rarely grows above 40 feet, and its branches grow horizontally on the upper section of the trunk. As it matures, it looks a little like a yard parasol.
The mimosa was imported as an ornamental from Asia and attracts gardeners with its fragrant and pretty blossoms. However, mimosa tree management proved more difficult than expected.
The trees produce thousands of seeds annually in dangling seed pods. Since the seeds require scarification, they can stay in the soil for many years and remain viable. They are spread by birds and other wildlife into nature where they colonize any disturbed areas. Seedlings are often weak and weedy, sometimes termed mimosa tree weeds. Mimosa also propagates vegetatively. The tree produces sprouts around it that can grow into unsightly clumps, difficult to eradicate. Indeed, control of mimosa tree is very difficult once it colonizes property.
It is difficult to get rid of a mimosa tree once it has spread, since the seedlings adapt to most soils. Moreover, the plants are not affected at all by hot or dry weather and don’t mind root disturbance. Once you remove native vegetation, the mimosa seeds will leap in to colonize the area. The one thing force of nature effective to get rid of mimosa tree seedlings is cold. One good frost takes them out and that is why one rarely sees mimosa tree weeds or trees crowding along the roadsides in the North.
How to Get Rid of Mimosa Trees
The best way to control mimosa trees is by not planting one in your yard or, if you’ve already planted one, removing it before it seeds. Absent that, you can try to remove it using a variety of mechanical controls. Cutting the trees off at ground level certainly acts to get rid of mimosa trees, but the trunks will respout. Repeated cutting of spouts or use of an herbicide is required to stop the sprouts. Girdling is also an effective way to get rid of mimosa trees. Cut off a strip of bark all around the tree about six inches above the soil. Make the cut deep. This will kill the top of the tree, but the same resprout problem remains.
You can also take control of mimosa trees by spraying the leaves with a solution of 2% glyphosate or triclopyr plus a 0.25% non-ionic surfactant. Both of these products are systemic herbicides that travel through a plant all the way to the roots. Use triclopyr if you mean to conserve other plants in the area.
Mimosa Tree Facts
Nobody can deny that the pink pompom flowers of the mimosa tree are attractive. They appear in late spring and early summer on the tips of the small tree’s spreading branches. The tree rarely grows above 40 feet, and its branches grow horizontally on the upper section of the trunk. As it matures, it looks a little like a yard parasol.
The mimosa was imported as an ornamental from Asia and attracts gardeners with its fragrant and pretty blossoms. However, mimosa tree management proved more difficult than expected.
The trees produce thousands of seeds annually in dangling seed pods. Since the seeds require scarification, they can stay in the soil for many years and remain viable. They are spread by birds and other wildlife into nature where they colonize any disturbed areas. Seedlings are often weak and weedy, sometimes termed mimosa tree weeds. Mimosa also propagates vegetatively. The tree produces sprouts around it that can grow into unsightly clumps, difficult to eradicate. Indeed, control of mimosa tree is very difficult once it colonizes property.
It is difficult to get rid of a mimosa tree once it has spread, since the seedlings adapt to most soils. Moreover, the plants are not affected at all by hot or dry weather and don’t mind root disturbance. Once you remove native vegetation, the mimosa seeds will leap in to colonize the area. The one thing force of nature effective to get rid of mimosa tree seedlings is cold. One good frost takes them out and that is why one rarely sees mimosa tree weeds or trees crowding along the roadsides in the North.
How to Get Rid of Mimosa Trees
The best way to control mimosa trees is by not planting one in your yard or, if you’ve already planted one, removing it before it seeds. Absent that, you can try to remove it using a variety of mechanical controls. Cutting the trees off at ground level certainly acts to get rid of mimosa trees, but the trunks will respout. Repeated cutting of spouts or use of an herbicide is required to stop the sprouts. Girdling is also an effective way to get rid of mimosa trees. Cut off a strip of bark all around the tree about six inches above the soil. Make the cut deep. This will kill the top of the tree, but the same resprout problem remains.
You can also take control of mimosa trees by spraying the leaves with a solution of 2% glyphosate or triclopyr plus a 0.25% non-ionic surfactant. Both of these products are systemic herbicides that travel through a plant all the way to the roots. Use triclopyr if you mean to conserve other plants in the area.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月01日
Sometimes a certain plant just doesn’t grow right where it’s locate and needs to be moved. Other times, a plant may quickly outgrow a landscape. Either way, moving a plant from one site to another can cause stress, or even death, if not done properly. Fast growing mimosa trees can quickly outgrow an area. While the average 25-foot height of one mimosa tree doesn’t sound that hard to fit in to the landscape, mimosa trees seed profusely, and one mimosa tree can quickly turn in to a stand of mimosa trees. Continue reading to learn about properly moving mimosa trees and when to transplant a mimosa tree.
Mimosa Tree Transplanting
Many times, mimosa trees are planted as specimen plants in landscape beds near a home or patio. Their sweet smelling flowers bloom in midsummer and then form into long seed pods that disperse seeds everywhere. As we get busy with other things in the garden in late summer and fall, it’s easy to overlook the seeding habits of mimosa until the following year when seedlings pop up all over. With its adaptation to almost any soil type, tolerance of full sun to part shade and quick growth rate, your one specimen mimosa can quickly turn into a thicket of mimosa. While this may be fine for a windbreak or privacy screen, a dense stand of mimosa can take over a small landscape bed. In time, you may find yourself needing to move mimosa trees to a location where they can be allowed to grow and seed densely.
When to Transplant a Mimosa Tree
Timing is important when transplanting a mimosa tree. Like any tree, mimosa trees are easier to transplant the younger they are. A small sapling will have a much greater survival rate if moved than an older more established tree. Sometimes, it is necessary to move a bigger tree, though. Either way, safely transplanting a mimosa tree will take a little prep work. Established trees should be transplanted in late fall to early winter after all leaves have fallen off and gone dormant. Small saplings can be dug up in spring and potted to give away to friends or family, or until a proper site is selected.
How to Transplant Mimosa Trees
First, select the new site for the mimosa. This area should have well-draining soil and be full sun to part shade. Pre-dig the hole in which the mimosa will be going. The hole should be twice as wide as the root ball you will be placing in it, but no deeper than the tree is presently growing. Planting any tree too deeply can cause root girdling and improper root development. Oftentimes, arborists will recommend digging a hole slightly deeper than the plants root ball, but then creating a small mound of soil in the center for the root ball to sit upon so that the tree itself is not planted any deeper than it should be, but the horizontal roots are encouraged to spread out and down into the deeper area of the hole.
Once your site and planting hole are prepared, place a wheelbarrow filled halfway with water and a transplanting fertilizer, like Root & Grow, next to the mimosa tree you are digging up. Depending on the size of the tree you are moving, with a clean, sharp spade, start digging about a foot to two out from the base of the tree. An older, larger tree will have a larger root system and will need more of these roots intact to survive the move. A clean, sharp spade will help easy cut through these roots while not damaging them too badly and reduce transplant shock. Established mimosa trees can have long, thick taproots, so it may be necessary to dig down around the tree up to 2 feet to get a good portion of this taproot.
After digging up the mimosa tree, place it in the so you can easily move the tree to its new location in the landscape. Place the mimosa tree in the prepared, new hole. Be sure that it will not be planted any deeper than it previously was going. Add soil under the root ball, if necessary, to raise it. Fill the area around the roots with soil, gently tamping it down to prevent air pockets. Once the hole is refilled with soil, dump any leftover water and rooting hormone in the wheelbarrow onto the root zone.
It will be necessary to water your newly transplanted mimosa tree daily for the first week. Do not use any fertilizer until spring. After the first week, you can water the tree twice a week for the next two weeks. Then drop down to a good, deep watering once per week. When watering any newly planted tree, you should give it about a twenty minute, slow trickle of water for deep watering. Once a mimosa tree is established, they can tolerate drought and will require very little watering.
Mimosa Tree Transplanting
Many times, mimosa trees are planted as specimen plants in landscape beds near a home or patio. Their sweet smelling flowers bloom in midsummer and then form into long seed pods that disperse seeds everywhere. As we get busy with other things in the garden in late summer and fall, it’s easy to overlook the seeding habits of mimosa until the following year when seedlings pop up all over. With its adaptation to almost any soil type, tolerance of full sun to part shade and quick growth rate, your one specimen mimosa can quickly turn into a thicket of mimosa. While this may be fine for a windbreak or privacy screen, a dense stand of mimosa can take over a small landscape bed. In time, you may find yourself needing to move mimosa trees to a location where they can be allowed to grow and seed densely.
When to Transplant a Mimosa Tree
Timing is important when transplanting a mimosa tree. Like any tree, mimosa trees are easier to transplant the younger they are. A small sapling will have a much greater survival rate if moved than an older more established tree. Sometimes, it is necessary to move a bigger tree, though. Either way, safely transplanting a mimosa tree will take a little prep work. Established trees should be transplanted in late fall to early winter after all leaves have fallen off and gone dormant. Small saplings can be dug up in spring and potted to give away to friends or family, or until a proper site is selected.
How to Transplant Mimosa Trees
First, select the new site for the mimosa. This area should have well-draining soil and be full sun to part shade. Pre-dig the hole in which the mimosa will be going. The hole should be twice as wide as the root ball you will be placing in it, but no deeper than the tree is presently growing. Planting any tree too deeply can cause root girdling and improper root development. Oftentimes, arborists will recommend digging a hole slightly deeper than the plants root ball, but then creating a small mound of soil in the center for the root ball to sit upon so that the tree itself is not planted any deeper than it should be, but the horizontal roots are encouraged to spread out and down into the deeper area of the hole.
Once your site and planting hole are prepared, place a wheelbarrow filled halfway with water and a transplanting fertilizer, like Root & Grow, next to the mimosa tree you are digging up. Depending on the size of the tree you are moving, with a clean, sharp spade, start digging about a foot to two out from the base of the tree. An older, larger tree will have a larger root system and will need more of these roots intact to survive the move. A clean, sharp spade will help easy cut through these roots while not damaging them too badly and reduce transplant shock. Established mimosa trees can have long, thick taproots, so it may be necessary to dig down around the tree up to 2 feet to get a good portion of this taproot.
After digging up the mimosa tree, place it in the so you can easily move the tree to its new location in the landscape. Place the mimosa tree in the prepared, new hole. Be sure that it will not be planted any deeper than it previously was going. Add soil under the root ball, if necessary, to raise it. Fill the area around the roots with soil, gently tamping it down to prevent air pockets. Once the hole is refilled with soil, dump any leftover water and rooting hormone in the wheelbarrow onto the root zone.
It will be necessary to water your newly transplanted mimosa tree daily for the first week. Do not use any fertilizer until spring. After the first week, you can water the tree twice a week for the next two weeks. Then drop down to a good, deep watering once per week. When watering any newly planted tree, you should give it about a twenty minute, slow trickle of water for deep watering. Once a mimosa tree is established, they can tolerate drought and will require very little watering.
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成长记
Sonja Abates Nelson
2017年08月31日
I new added a "Ghost Plant echeveria ramillette" in my "garden"
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成长记
meriunkat
2017年08月31日
Pulled it out from under a brick! Any suggestions on how to care for this little guy are welcome. In the meantime i will let it dry for a week so when i do plant it the water won't rot it.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月31日
If you are seeking a beautiful medium to large sized maple tree, look no further than the Norway maple. This lovely plant is native to Europe and western Asia, and has become naturalized in some areas of North America. In some regions, growing a Norway maple tree can be a problem where it self-seeds and displaces other native vegetation. With good care and careful management, however, this tree can be a good shade or standalone specimen. Learn how to grow Norway maple trees and enjoy their ornamental classic look and ease of care.
Norway Maple Tree Info
Maple trees are classics of the landscape genre. Norway maple (Acer platanoides) has made its own place in the culture and is a common shade tree that resembles sugar maples. The plant has several seasons of interest and retains a compact crown and dense growth. Norway maple has high tolerance to pollution and is adaptable to many soils including clay, sand or acidic conditions. This elegant tree is a useful addition to the landscape, provided some care is taken to minimize seedlings, which are rampant the following season.
The Norway maple was introduced by John Bartram to Philadelphia in 1756. It quickly became a popular shade tree due to its adaptability and attractive form. However, in some areas of the United States, it has begun to replace native populations of maples and may be invasive from the northeastern U.S. south to Tennessee and Virginia. It is also a plant of concern in the Pacific Northwest.
Trees can grow up to 90 feet in height and have nicely rounded, compact crowns. Young trees have smooth bark, which becomes black and furrowed with age. The fall color is bright gold but one of the types of Norway maple trees, Crimson King, develops deep reddish fall tones. One of the important items of Norway maple tree info is regarding its root system. Roots can become a hazard due to the huge number of surface roots the plant produces.
How to Grow Norway Maple Trees
Acer platanoides is hardy to United States Department of Agriculture zones 4 to 7. This remarkably adaptable tree performs well in either full sun or partial shade. While it prefers well drained, moist soil, it is drought tolerant for short periods of time, although some leaf drop may occur. Growing a Norway maple tree may require some training when the tree is young to help it develop a good strong central leader and stout scaffold. Plants transplant easily with little effect on the root system or foliage. Norway maple has good resistance to storm and ice damage and has a vigorous growth rate. These trees, if carefully managed, can quickly become attractive focal points of the shade garden.
Norway Maple Tree Care
One of the highlights of Norway maple tree care is managing the samaras, or seed fruits. These winged fruits can catch the wind and navigate far away from the parent tree. They germinate readily and can become an issue in rural settings or near native woods. Pruning at the end of the season, just before the samaras turn brown, can prevent wild seedlings from becoming a pest.
Other management is limited to supplemental watering in hot summers, once a year fertilizing with a good balanced food in early spring, and removing any damaged or diseased wood. These trees have few of the classic maple issues and are quite fine if left alone most of the time. While this adds to their popularity, caution should be observed in some regions where the plant is considered invasive.
Norway Maple Tree Info
Maple trees are classics of the landscape genre. Norway maple (Acer platanoides) has made its own place in the culture and is a common shade tree that resembles sugar maples. The plant has several seasons of interest and retains a compact crown and dense growth. Norway maple has high tolerance to pollution and is adaptable to many soils including clay, sand or acidic conditions. This elegant tree is a useful addition to the landscape, provided some care is taken to minimize seedlings, which are rampant the following season.
The Norway maple was introduced by John Bartram to Philadelphia in 1756. It quickly became a popular shade tree due to its adaptability and attractive form. However, in some areas of the United States, it has begun to replace native populations of maples and may be invasive from the northeastern U.S. south to Tennessee and Virginia. It is also a plant of concern in the Pacific Northwest.
Trees can grow up to 90 feet in height and have nicely rounded, compact crowns. Young trees have smooth bark, which becomes black and furrowed with age. The fall color is bright gold but one of the types of Norway maple trees, Crimson King, develops deep reddish fall tones. One of the important items of Norway maple tree info is regarding its root system. Roots can become a hazard due to the huge number of surface roots the plant produces.
How to Grow Norway Maple Trees
Acer platanoides is hardy to United States Department of Agriculture zones 4 to 7. This remarkably adaptable tree performs well in either full sun or partial shade. While it prefers well drained, moist soil, it is drought tolerant for short periods of time, although some leaf drop may occur. Growing a Norway maple tree may require some training when the tree is young to help it develop a good strong central leader and stout scaffold. Plants transplant easily with little effect on the root system or foliage. Norway maple has good resistance to storm and ice damage and has a vigorous growth rate. These trees, if carefully managed, can quickly become attractive focal points of the shade garden.
Norway Maple Tree Care
One of the highlights of Norway maple tree care is managing the samaras, or seed fruits. These winged fruits can catch the wind and navigate far away from the parent tree. They germinate readily and can become an issue in rural settings or near native woods. Pruning at the end of the season, just before the samaras turn brown, can prevent wild seedlings from becoming a pest.
Other management is limited to supplemental watering in hot summers, once a year fertilizing with a good balanced food in early spring, and removing any damaged or diseased wood. These trees have few of the classic maple issues and are quite fine if left alone most of the time. While this adds to their popularity, caution should be observed in some regions where the plant is considered invasive.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月31日
Gardeners in need of quick privacy hedges love quick-growing Leyland cypress (x Cupressocyparis leylandii). When you plant them in an appropriate location and provide good culture, your shrubs may not suffer from Leyland cypress diseases. Read on for information about the main diseases of Leyland cypress trees, including tips on treating disease in Leyland cypress plants.
Preventing Leyland Cypress Diseases
Prevention is easier than cure when it comes to diseases of Leyland cypress trees. Your first, best steps toward keeping these attractive evergreens healthy is planting them in appropriate sites.
The second step is giving them the best care. A healthy, vigorous plant shakes off problems with more ease than a stressed plant. And Leyland cypress disease treatment is often impossible or ineffective. So save yourself the time and effort involved in treating disease in Leyland cypress. Plant these shrubs in a sunny location in soil offering excellent drainage. Space them far enough apart to let air pass between them. Provide water during times of drought and check your hardiness zone. Leyland cypress thrive in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 6 through 10.
Diseases of Leyland Cypress Trees
If your shrubs are ill, you’ll have to learn something about the different Leyland cypress diseases to figure out what’s wrong. Diseases of Leyland cypress generally fall into three categories: blights, cankers and root rots.
Blight
The symptoms of needle blight diseases include needles browning and dropping. Usually, this begins on the lower branches. These are fungal diseases, and the spores spread from branch to branch by rain, wind and tools. Placing the shrubs far enough apart to allow air and sun to get through the branches helps prevent needle blight. If it’s too late for prevention, prune out infected branches. Thorough application of a fungicide can help but is difficult on tall specimens.
Canker
If your Leyland cypress needles turn red-brown or you see cankers on the trunks or branches, the shrubs may have a canker disease, like Seiridium or Botryosphaeria canker. Cankers are dry lesions, often sunken, on stems and branches. Surrounding bark can show a dark brown or purplish discoloration. Canker diseases are also caused by fungus, and usually only attack stressed plants. When it comes to treating disease in Leyland cypress, fungicides are not effective. The only Leyland cypress disease treatment for this is to prune out infected branches, being sure to sterilize the pruners. Then start a program of regular irrigation.
Root rot
Root rot diseases cause dying roots leading to yellowing foliage. It is often caused by inappropriate planting in an area where the soil does not drain well. Once a shrub has root rot, chemical Leyland cypress disease treatment is not effective. As with the other diseases, the best way of treating disease in Leyland cypress is to give the plants appropriate cultural care.
Preventing Leyland Cypress Diseases
Prevention is easier than cure when it comes to diseases of Leyland cypress trees. Your first, best steps toward keeping these attractive evergreens healthy is planting them in appropriate sites.
The second step is giving them the best care. A healthy, vigorous plant shakes off problems with more ease than a stressed plant. And Leyland cypress disease treatment is often impossible or ineffective. So save yourself the time and effort involved in treating disease in Leyland cypress. Plant these shrubs in a sunny location in soil offering excellent drainage. Space them far enough apart to let air pass between them. Provide water during times of drought and check your hardiness zone. Leyland cypress thrive in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 6 through 10.
Diseases of Leyland Cypress Trees
If your shrubs are ill, you’ll have to learn something about the different Leyland cypress diseases to figure out what’s wrong. Diseases of Leyland cypress generally fall into three categories: blights, cankers and root rots.
Blight
The symptoms of needle blight diseases include needles browning and dropping. Usually, this begins on the lower branches. These are fungal diseases, and the spores spread from branch to branch by rain, wind and tools. Placing the shrubs far enough apart to allow air and sun to get through the branches helps prevent needle blight. If it’s too late for prevention, prune out infected branches. Thorough application of a fungicide can help but is difficult on tall specimens.
Canker
If your Leyland cypress needles turn red-brown or you see cankers on the trunks or branches, the shrubs may have a canker disease, like Seiridium or Botryosphaeria canker. Cankers are dry lesions, often sunken, on stems and branches. Surrounding bark can show a dark brown or purplish discoloration. Canker diseases are also caused by fungus, and usually only attack stressed plants. When it comes to treating disease in Leyland cypress, fungicides are not effective. The only Leyland cypress disease treatment for this is to prune out infected branches, being sure to sterilize the pruners. Then start a program of regular irrigation.
Root rot
Root rot diseases cause dying roots leading to yellowing foliage. It is often caused by inappropriate planting in an area where the soil does not drain well. Once a shrub has root rot, chemical Leyland cypress disease treatment is not effective. As with the other diseases, the best way of treating disease in Leyland cypress is to give the plants appropriate cultural care.
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