文章
Miss Chen
2017年08月29日
As one of the most celebrated flowering shrubs of all time, roses (Rosa spp.) come in a wide assortment, boasting blooms of almost every color. Depending on the cultivar, roses are hardy in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 2 through 10. They bloom year after year if growers follow pruning guidelines that keep the plants healthy. Pruning, or cutting back the bushes, encourages blooming and promotes new growth.
Pruning Cues
A rose bush's class determines when the bush should be pruned. The two classes of roses are those that repeatedly bloom all summer and those that bloom once.
Repeat-blooming roses require an annual pruning between mid-February and mid-April, based on their location. Rosarians suggest pruning roses when forsythia bushes (Forsythia spp.) start blooming. An alternate rule of thumb is to start pruning when new rose buds form and begin to swell.
Old-fashioned and climbing roses bloom once each year and need pruning after they bloom sometime in early summer. This class of roses produces blossoms on existing stems rather than new growth.
Apart from annual pruning, any stem or wood that is diseased or dying should be removed immediately throughout the year.
Pruning Necessities
Several tools and other items are needed for pruning roses. Ensure each tool's cutting blade is sharp and sterilized with 70 percent rubbing alcohol. Dip small tools in a container filled with rubbing alcohol, and then dry the tools with a clean cloth. Wipe large tools thoroughly with a soft cloth soaked with rubbing alcohol, and use a clean cloth to dry them.
The tools and items needed for pruning are: • Bypass pruning shears that cut like scissors. • Long-handled lopping shears. • Pruning saw for thick, old stems. • Heavy gloves to protect your hands. • White, water-based school glue.
Pruning Techniques
Some pruning tasks are applicable to all roses. For example, make 45-degree angle cuts each time, and periodically sterilize your tools with alcohol as you prune. Also:
• Remove damaged wood stems by cutting each at least 1 inch below darkened wood, leaving green wood with a white center. If the center is tan, continue cutting down the branch until the pith is white. The cut also should be ¼ inch above a bud that faces outward rather than toward the bush's center. • Remove branches that grow toward the center of the bush. This technique opens the center for air and light, and reduces the chances for diseases. • Identify branches that cross each other or rub together. Remove the weakest branch of two such branches. • Remove all branches that are smaller in diameter than a pencil. • Remove suckers from the root base. Dig into the soil to find where suckers originate, and remove them. • Seal all cuts with a thin layer of white, water-based school glue to prevent borers from attacking.
On Oct. 1, all pruning tasks should cease so that rose plants have the opportunity to harden off for winter.
Pruning for Blooms
Repeat-blooming roses can be pruned to a uniform height of 12 to 24 inches. Leave nine to 12 healthy stems that are at least ½ inch in diameter. If you want larger blooms for cut flowers, then prune the bushes to no taller than 15 inches; the plants will produce fewer flowers, but the flowers will be larger. Cut off the spent blooms of repeat-blooming roses throughout summer, cutting each faded bloom down to the first outward-facing rosebud with five leaflets. Removing spent blooms is called deadheading.
Once-blooming roses, such as old-fashioned and most climbing varieties, do not require severe pruning. Do not remove more than one-third of each plant. Cut away only dead, damaged and unproductive stems. The remaining branches will produce next year's blooms. Deadhead once-blooming roses by removing only their spent petals, leaving their rose hips intact.
Rose hips come from rose blossoms. They are small, round fruits that mature in fall, turning red, orange, burgundy, scarlet or yellow. They are edible for humans and wildlife and offer a showy display in winter.
Pruning Cues
A rose bush's class determines when the bush should be pruned. The two classes of roses are those that repeatedly bloom all summer and those that bloom once.
Repeat-blooming roses require an annual pruning between mid-February and mid-April, based on their location. Rosarians suggest pruning roses when forsythia bushes (Forsythia spp.) start blooming. An alternate rule of thumb is to start pruning when new rose buds form and begin to swell.
Old-fashioned and climbing roses bloom once each year and need pruning after they bloom sometime in early summer. This class of roses produces blossoms on existing stems rather than new growth.
Apart from annual pruning, any stem or wood that is diseased or dying should be removed immediately throughout the year.
Pruning Necessities
Several tools and other items are needed for pruning roses. Ensure each tool's cutting blade is sharp and sterilized with 70 percent rubbing alcohol. Dip small tools in a container filled with rubbing alcohol, and then dry the tools with a clean cloth. Wipe large tools thoroughly with a soft cloth soaked with rubbing alcohol, and use a clean cloth to dry them.
The tools and items needed for pruning are: • Bypass pruning shears that cut like scissors. • Long-handled lopping shears. • Pruning saw for thick, old stems. • Heavy gloves to protect your hands. • White, water-based school glue.
Pruning Techniques
Some pruning tasks are applicable to all roses. For example, make 45-degree angle cuts each time, and periodically sterilize your tools with alcohol as you prune. Also:
• Remove damaged wood stems by cutting each at least 1 inch below darkened wood, leaving green wood with a white center. If the center is tan, continue cutting down the branch until the pith is white. The cut also should be ¼ inch above a bud that faces outward rather than toward the bush's center. • Remove branches that grow toward the center of the bush. This technique opens the center for air and light, and reduces the chances for diseases. • Identify branches that cross each other or rub together. Remove the weakest branch of two such branches. • Remove all branches that are smaller in diameter than a pencil. • Remove suckers from the root base. Dig into the soil to find where suckers originate, and remove them. • Seal all cuts with a thin layer of white, water-based school glue to prevent borers from attacking.
On Oct. 1, all pruning tasks should cease so that rose plants have the opportunity to harden off for winter.
Pruning for Blooms
Repeat-blooming roses can be pruned to a uniform height of 12 to 24 inches. Leave nine to 12 healthy stems that are at least ½ inch in diameter. If you want larger blooms for cut flowers, then prune the bushes to no taller than 15 inches; the plants will produce fewer flowers, but the flowers will be larger. Cut off the spent blooms of repeat-blooming roses throughout summer, cutting each faded bloom down to the first outward-facing rosebud with five leaflets. Removing spent blooms is called deadheading.
Once-blooming roses, such as old-fashioned and most climbing varieties, do not require severe pruning. Do not remove more than one-third of each plant. Cut away only dead, damaged and unproductive stems. The remaining branches will produce next year's blooms. Deadhead once-blooming roses by removing only their spent petals, leaving their rose hips intact.
Rose hips come from rose blossoms. They are small, round fruits that mature in fall, turning red, orange, burgundy, scarlet or yellow. They are edible for humans and wildlife and offer a showy display in winter.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月29日
Ground covers are an attractive way to cover a lot of area in a garden quickly. Snow in summer flower, or Cerastium silver carpet, is an evergreen ground cover that flowers from May to June and grows well in USDA plant hardiness zones 3-7. This stunning European native is a member of the carnation family and is deer resistant. Flowering is profuse, with blooms that are silvery white and star-shaped, and when in full bloom, this mounded plant resembles a pile of snow, hence the plant’s name. However, the flowers are not the only attractive part of this showy plant. The silver, grayish green foliage is a dainty addition to this plant and retains its rich color year round.
Growing Snow in Summer Plants
Growing snow in summer plants (Cerastium tomentosum) is relatively easy. Snow in summer likes full sun but will also thrive in partial sun in warm climates. New plants can be started from seed, either directly sown into the flower garden in early spring or started indoors four to six weeks before the last expected frost date. The soil must be kept moist for proper germination but once the plant is established, it is very drought tolerant.
Established plants may be propagated by division in the fall or by cuttings. Space the snow in summer flower 12 to 24 inches apart to give plenty of room for spread. Mature plants grow to 6 to 12 inches and have a spread of 12 to 18 inches.
Care of Snow in Summer Ground Cover
Snow in summer ground cover is very easy to maintain but will spread rapidly and may become invasive, even earning the nickname mouse-ear chickweed. The plant spreads quickly by reseeding and sending out runners. However, a 5-inch deep edge will usually keep this plant in its borders. Use a high-nitrogen fertilizer when planting and a phosphorus fertilizer after plants bloom.
Don’t let Cerastium silver carpet ground cover go unnoticed. Growing snow in summer plants in rock gardens, on slopes or hillsides, or even as a knockout border in the garden will provide long-lasting pearly white blooms and stunning silvery color year round.
Growing Snow in Summer Plants
Growing snow in summer plants (Cerastium tomentosum) is relatively easy. Snow in summer likes full sun but will also thrive in partial sun in warm climates. New plants can be started from seed, either directly sown into the flower garden in early spring or started indoors four to six weeks before the last expected frost date. The soil must be kept moist for proper germination but once the plant is established, it is very drought tolerant.
Established plants may be propagated by division in the fall or by cuttings. Space the snow in summer flower 12 to 24 inches apart to give plenty of room for spread. Mature plants grow to 6 to 12 inches and have a spread of 12 to 18 inches.
Care of Snow in Summer Ground Cover
Snow in summer ground cover is very easy to maintain but will spread rapidly and may become invasive, even earning the nickname mouse-ear chickweed. The plant spreads quickly by reseeding and sending out runners. However, a 5-inch deep edge will usually keep this plant in its borders. Use a high-nitrogen fertilizer when planting and a phosphorus fertilizer after plants bloom.
Don’t let Cerastium silver carpet ground cover go unnoticed. Growing snow in summer plants in rock gardens, on slopes or hillsides, or even as a knockout border in the garden will provide long-lasting pearly white blooms and stunning silvery color year round.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月29日
Snow in summer is a lovely plant with grayish green leaves and bright white flowers in June. It spreads beautifully and is useful in rock gardens where it can cascade down amongst other creeping species. A non-flowering snow in summer plant might seem a mystery, but these short lived plants need dividing annually and well-draining soil to perform properly. If you have no flowers on snow in summer plant, you might just need to fertilize or consider a site change to optimize the plant’s lighting and soil needs.
Snow in Summer Plant isn’t Blooming
Great masses of white blooms on silvery gray foliage are the hallmark of the snow in summer plant. Failure to form flowers might be related to site conditions, lack of nutrients, or simply poor snow in summer plant care. Another common cause of no flowers on snow in summer plant is planting in the incorrect zone. This is an alpine plant that thrives in United States Department of Agriculture zones 3 to 7. Planting it in tropical to semi-tropical zones will not afford it the chilling period it needs to form blooms.
Snow in summer plants form broad foliage mounds very quickly. They bloom in late spring to early summer, producing a carpet of bright white flowers quickly. The narrow leaves are evergreen and the plant will produce a 6-inch tall mat. In some climates, the flowers will self-seed if not removed from the plant. Fortunately, it takes to shearing or even a high mow to remove spent blooms and neaten the plant. When a snow in summer plant isn’t blooming, you may have sheared it at the wrong time. Trim plants after blooms or when flowers are just spent to prevent removing the next season’s bloom material.
To keep your plant happy, install it in the optimum location. Snow in summer likes slightly sandy, well-draining soil in full sun. It prefers areas with cool summer months and does not like excessive heat. It is drought tolerant once established but will grow faster and better with average moisture. One thing that will really make the plant unhappy is compact, clay soil which doesn’t drain well. This can lead to root rot and could cause a non-flowering snow in summer plant but is more likely to affect foliage first and can even trigger total plant death. Over time, the centers of the plant will fail to bloom, but division of the plant in early spring or autumn will help produce more compact plants and better blooming.
Snow in Summer Plant Care
Once snow in summer is established, it is best to leave it on the dry side. Water only when the top few inches of soil are dry. The plant can be an aggressive grower but shearing it after bloom will create a tighter plant and prevent it from overrunning the planting site. Clip them back to 2 inches in height and the plant will rapidly produce new foliage and stems. Luckily, snow in summer plants have no serious disease or pest issues. Soil that doesn’t drain well seems to be their biggest problem. Overhead watering during the warm, moist months should be discouraged, as rust can become an issue.
Fertilize in spring with a balanced all purpose, time release granule formula. This will feed the plant for up to 3 months, providing it nutrition to both flower and produce foliage. If necessary, you may want to encourage more blooms by using a high phosphorus fertilizer or adding bone meal to the soil around non-flowering snow in summer plants.
Snow in Summer Plant isn’t Blooming
Great masses of white blooms on silvery gray foliage are the hallmark of the snow in summer plant. Failure to form flowers might be related to site conditions, lack of nutrients, or simply poor snow in summer plant care. Another common cause of no flowers on snow in summer plant is planting in the incorrect zone. This is an alpine plant that thrives in United States Department of Agriculture zones 3 to 7. Planting it in tropical to semi-tropical zones will not afford it the chilling period it needs to form blooms.
Snow in summer plants form broad foliage mounds very quickly. They bloom in late spring to early summer, producing a carpet of bright white flowers quickly. The narrow leaves are evergreen and the plant will produce a 6-inch tall mat. In some climates, the flowers will self-seed if not removed from the plant. Fortunately, it takes to shearing or even a high mow to remove spent blooms and neaten the plant. When a snow in summer plant isn’t blooming, you may have sheared it at the wrong time. Trim plants after blooms or when flowers are just spent to prevent removing the next season’s bloom material.
To keep your plant happy, install it in the optimum location. Snow in summer likes slightly sandy, well-draining soil in full sun. It prefers areas with cool summer months and does not like excessive heat. It is drought tolerant once established but will grow faster and better with average moisture. One thing that will really make the plant unhappy is compact, clay soil which doesn’t drain well. This can lead to root rot and could cause a non-flowering snow in summer plant but is more likely to affect foliage first and can even trigger total plant death. Over time, the centers of the plant will fail to bloom, but division of the plant in early spring or autumn will help produce more compact plants and better blooming.
Snow in Summer Plant Care
Once snow in summer is established, it is best to leave it on the dry side. Water only when the top few inches of soil are dry. The plant can be an aggressive grower but shearing it after bloom will create a tighter plant and prevent it from overrunning the planting site. Clip them back to 2 inches in height and the plant will rapidly produce new foliage and stems. Luckily, snow in summer plants have no serious disease or pest issues. Soil that doesn’t drain well seems to be their biggest problem. Overhead watering during the warm, moist months should be discouraged, as rust can become an issue.
Fertilize in spring with a balanced all purpose, time release granule formula. This will feed the plant for up to 3 months, providing it nutrition to both flower and produce foliage. If necessary, you may want to encourage more blooms by using a high phosphorus fertilizer or adding bone meal to the soil around non-flowering snow in summer plants.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月29日
Saxifraga is a genus of plants found almost everywhere on earth. Typically, the plants form mounds or creeping mats and produce tiny flowers. There are approximately 480 species of the plant, and plant enthusiasts and breeders are introducing more each year. A very common and easy-to-grow variety is rockfoil. Information on how to grow rockfoil plants will allow you an easy entry into this diverse and attractive group of plants.
Rockfoil Saxifraga Information
A commonplace form of Saxifraga is mossy rockfoil. There are many types of rockfoil, but mossy rockfoil is readily available in nurseries and garden centers. The mossy varieties are in the section of Saxifraga called hypnoides. The plant is an excellent ground cover, forming a thick tenacious carpet over rocks and under trees.
Rockfoil produces its thickest and most lush foliage in spring. The bright green crinkly leaves pack tightly together and carpet rocks, pavers and lightly shaded nooks. In spring, tiny cupped flowers appear on slender stalks held above the body of the plant. The wiry stalks are tinged pink to purple and support blooms of salmon, pink, purple, white and other hues. The rockfoil flowers last into the early part of summer.
Once the flowers die back, the plant is exposed to drying air and sun without their shading protection. This often causes the plant to die in the center. Fill in the center with a light dusting of sandy grit to help the plant hold moisture and prevent core mortality. This is important rockfoil Saxifraga information to preserve the beauty of your plant. The perennial plant needs moist shade and is hardy in USDA plant hardiness zones 5 to 7 in temperate regions. Growing rockfoil requires cool sites which mimic its alpine native ranges.
How to Grow Rockfoil Plants
Mossy rockfoil has no special needs, provided you give it a location with some shelter from wind and hot sun. The plants require moist soil, especially in spring when they are growing the most. You can plant this Saxifraga from seed but for faster plants, divide a mature clump. Seeds require cold stratification for germination and can take two to three years to bloom. Growing rockfoil from divisions helps prevent the center die out and gives you more of these alpine plants for your garden. This species needs a moist rich loam for best performance. Mix in a little compost with existing soil at planting time.
Saxifraga Plant Care
Mulch around the plants to conserve moisture and help prevent weeds from growing up into the center of the plant as it spreads. Water twice per week in summer. In colder zones, mulch over the plant lightly to protect the roots from freezes, but pull away the mulch in early spring. This allows the new growth to burst out without having to push through the layer of mulch. Mossy rockfoil needs no pruning and has no staking or manual cultivation needs. As with any plant, watch for pests and disease with Saxifraga care and maintenance. It is prey to several species of insect and prone to rots and rust. Combat these by avoiding overhead watering when the plant can’t dry out quickly and with a fungicide or baking soda spray.
Rockfoil Saxifraga Information
A commonplace form of Saxifraga is mossy rockfoil. There are many types of rockfoil, but mossy rockfoil is readily available in nurseries and garden centers. The mossy varieties are in the section of Saxifraga called hypnoides. The plant is an excellent ground cover, forming a thick tenacious carpet over rocks and under trees.
Rockfoil produces its thickest and most lush foliage in spring. The bright green crinkly leaves pack tightly together and carpet rocks, pavers and lightly shaded nooks. In spring, tiny cupped flowers appear on slender stalks held above the body of the plant. The wiry stalks are tinged pink to purple and support blooms of salmon, pink, purple, white and other hues. The rockfoil flowers last into the early part of summer.
Once the flowers die back, the plant is exposed to drying air and sun without their shading protection. This often causes the plant to die in the center. Fill in the center with a light dusting of sandy grit to help the plant hold moisture and prevent core mortality. This is important rockfoil Saxifraga information to preserve the beauty of your plant. The perennial plant needs moist shade and is hardy in USDA plant hardiness zones 5 to 7 in temperate regions. Growing rockfoil requires cool sites which mimic its alpine native ranges.
How to Grow Rockfoil Plants
Mossy rockfoil has no special needs, provided you give it a location with some shelter from wind and hot sun. The plants require moist soil, especially in spring when they are growing the most. You can plant this Saxifraga from seed but for faster plants, divide a mature clump. Seeds require cold stratification for germination and can take two to three years to bloom. Growing rockfoil from divisions helps prevent the center die out and gives you more of these alpine plants for your garden. This species needs a moist rich loam for best performance. Mix in a little compost with existing soil at planting time.
Saxifraga Plant Care
Mulch around the plants to conserve moisture and help prevent weeds from growing up into the center of the plant as it spreads. Water twice per week in summer. In colder zones, mulch over the plant lightly to protect the roots from freezes, but pull away the mulch in early spring. This allows the new growth to burst out without having to push through the layer of mulch. Mossy rockfoil needs no pruning and has no staking or manual cultivation needs. As with any plant, watch for pests and disease with Saxifraga care and maintenance. It is prey to several species of insect and prone to rots and rust. Combat these by avoiding overhead watering when the plant can’t dry out quickly and with a fungicide or baking soda spray.
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文章
Miss Chen
2017年08月29日
The original Knock Out rose (Rosa "Radrazz"), hardy in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 5 through 11, has exceptional disease resistance and requires little to no maintenance, including fertilizers. Joined by an expanded collection known as the Knock Out Family, the original Knock Out rose requires no fertilizer under normal conditions in healthy garden soil. With varieties hardy from USDA zones 4 through 11, Knock Out Family members share the same simple-care, low-nutrient requirements of the original Knock Out rose. If you choose to fertilize your Knock Out roses, timely applications and a light hand are essential.
First-Year Knock Outs
Although Knock Out roses don't require fertilizer at any stage of life, leaving them fertilizer-free is especially important their first year. Fertilizing newly planted roses can damage their tender young roots and delay the plants' establishment. Instead of fertilizers, focus on a proper planting site that suits Knock Out roses' other needs. Give your roses a location with well-drained soil and at least six to eight hours of full sunlight daily. More hours of direct sunlight translate to better health and more prolific blooms. Knock Outs do best in soil with a near-neutral pH level -- the point at which soil nutrients stay most available to plants.
Established Plants
If you chose to fertilize Knock Outs after they become established, wait until they have at least one full bloom cycle. Water before and after you fertilize them. Plants need water to absorb nutrients, and fertilizing dry soil can burn roots. Wait until the roses have 4 to 6 inches of new growth before you feed them in spring. Then wait until after the first flush of Knock Out blooms to feed them again. Use slow-release, water-soluble, granular fertilizer, with all three of its numbers -- for nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium -- in the single digits, and follow its label instructions. One rose food manufacturer recommends feeding Knock Outs 3/4 cup of 3-4-3 fertilizer per bush every six weeks during the active growth period. Work the granules into the soil around the roses, several inches from their stems or canes.
Southern Considerations
In most areas, Knock Out roses grow 3 to 4 feet tall, but long, southern growing seasons produce Knock Outs two or more times that height. Their blooms continue almost year-round in some regions. These hard-working Knock Outs may benefit from extra nutrients. Louisiana State University Agricultural Center recommends twice yearly Knock Out pruning, with each session followed by fertilizer. Frequent watering of container-grown Knock Outs leaches nutrients from their soil, leaving the roses short on natural nutrition. In both cases, follow through with 3-4-3 fertilizer or a similar product at the same rate as for established roses. Sterilize your pruning blades with household disinfectant before and after pruning each rose bush.
Northern Concerns
In northern climates, unfertilized Knock Out roses naturally wind down and harden off as winter approaches. They drop their leaves and redirect their energy to below ground. If you fertilize Knock Out roses in northern climates, stop providing all fertilizers at least six to eight weeks before your location's average first fall frost date. Late-season fertilizer stimulates vulnerable new growth and inhibits the rose bushes from entering dormancy, lessening their cold hardiness and putting the entire plants at risk of cold damage or death. High-nitrogen fertilizers are particularly harmful. In early spring, cut your Knock Outs back to 12 inches tall because they'll triple in height, but forgo the follow-up fertilizer.
First-Year Knock Outs
Although Knock Out roses don't require fertilizer at any stage of life, leaving them fertilizer-free is especially important their first year. Fertilizing newly planted roses can damage their tender young roots and delay the plants' establishment. Instead of fertilizers, focus on a proper planting site that suits Knock Out roses' other needs. Give your roses a location with well-drained soil and at least six to eight hours of full sunlight daily. More hours of direct sunlight translate to better health and more prolific blooms. Knock Outs do best in soil with a near-neutral pH level -- the point at which soil nutrients stay most available to plants.
Established Plants
If you chose to fertilize Knock Outs after they become established, wait until they have at least one full bloom cycle. Water before and after you fertilize them. Plants need water to absorb nutrients, and fertilizing dry soil can burn roots. Wait until the roses have 4 to 6 inches of new growth before you feed them in spring. Then wait until after the first flush of Knock Out blooms to feed them again. Use slow-release, water-soluble, granular fertilizer, with all three of its numbers -- for nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium -- in the single digits, and follow its label instructions. One rose food manufacturer recommends feeding Knock Outs 3/4 cup of 3-4-3 fertilizer per bush every six weeks during the active growth period. Work the granules into the soil around the roses, several inches from their stems or canes.
Southern Considerations
In most areas, Knock Out roses grow 3 to 4 feet tall, but long, southern growing seasons produce Knock Outs two or more times that height. Their blooms continue almost year-round in some regions. These hard-working Knock Outs may benefit from extra nutrients. Louisiana State University Agricultural Center recommends twice yearly Knock Out pruning, with each session followed by fertilizer. Frequent watering of container-grown Knock Outs leaches nutrients from their soil, leaving the roses short on natural nutrition. In both cases, follow through with 3-4-3 fertilizer or a similar product at the same rate as for established roses. Sterilize your pruning blades with household disinfectant before and after pruning each rose bush.
Northern Concerns
In northern climates, unfertilized Knock Out roses naturally wind down and harden off as winter approaches. They drop their leaves and redirect their energy to below ground. If you fertilize Knock Out roses in northern climates, stop providing all fertilizers at least six to eight weeks before your location's average first fall frost date. Late-season fertilizer stimulates vulnerable new growth and inhibits the rose bushes from entering dormancy, lessening their cold hardiness and putting the entire plants at risk of cold damage or death. High-nitrogen fertilizers are particularly harmful. In early spring, cut your Knock Outs back to 12 inches tall because they'll triple in height, but forgo the follow-up fertilizer.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月29日
Red clover is a common soil amendment and green manure. The plant fixes nitrogen in soil, enhancing fertility for better growth in other plants. If you are thinking about using red clover, why not try ornamental clover plants. Red feather foxtail clover has spectacular tufted flowers that are attractive and useful. Red feather clover not only adds nitrogen to soil but has other benefits after providing a colorful floral display.
What is Red Feather Clover?
Growing red clover to enhance soil is a time honored tradition amongst organic gardeners and traditional farmers. Trifolium rubens is an ornamental form of white clover, valued for its nutrient benefits and its lovely blooms. Ornamental red clover performs the same functions as standard red clovers while enhancing the natural landscape. Red feather foxtail clover is easy to grow from seed and needs little care or maintenance.
This clover provides the most arresting floral display of all the species and attracts butterflies and hummingbirds. Bees love the flowers too! The plant grows 15 inches tall and has fuzzy purple to red flowers from early to late summer. It is an herbaceous perennial with characteristic clover leaves and a spreading stolen system that allows the plant to clamber over and cover large spaces.
Red clover is even edible and can be used as a tea, animal browse, or sprouted for salads. If you are growing red clover for its edible or medicinal properties, make sure no chemicals are used in the area. Other benefits of growing red clover include its ability to break up soil and prevent erosion.
How to Grow Ornamental Clover Plants
Clover thrives in moist or dry conditions but drainage should be good. Slightly acidic soils with a pH between 6.0 and 6.5 are preferred. You can plant the clover in full sun or partial shade, although full sun provides the best yields. Sow the tiny seeds in a well-prepared bed from January to April or August to November. Plant seeds at ¼ inch deep or even scatter them on the surface of the soil and lightly dust them with earth. Keep them moderately moist until germination, which is generally 14 to 21 days. You may also choose to start plants indoors in flats. Transplant them outside when there are 6 true leaves and soil has warmed. Water established plants regularly. Choose your site carefully, as red clover has a tendency to spread and become invasive.
Red Clover Care
You may choose to cut back seed heads to prevent over-sowing of seeds and invasion of other beds. Otherwise, you can opt to till late summer planted clover in spring to increase soil fertility. Plants sown in late winter to early summer may be allowed to persist as a ground cover and cover crop to combat weeds and enhance soil properties. If you choose to harvest the plant for consumption, take fresh flowers and leaves at any time. Ornamental red clover can be harvested up to three times in the season. You may dry them or use them fresh.
Sprouted clover seeds add a unique texture and flavor to salads and sandwiches. Soak seeds in warm water for 6 hours and then put them in a shallow bowl or seed sprouter. Place the container in a dark location for 3 days, rinsing and draining the seed twice per day. By the fourth day, you should seed sprouts and it is time to move them to a light location to develop green color and maximum nutrients. Use them as you would any sprout.
What is Red Feather Clover?
Growing red clover to enhance soil is a time honored tradition amongst organic gardeners and traditional farmers. Trifolium rubens is an ornamental form of white clover, valued for its nutrient benefits and its lovely blooms. Ornamental red clover performs the same functions as standard red clovers while enhancing the natural landscape. Red feather foxtail clover is easy to grow from seed and needs little care or maintenance.
This clover provides the most arresting floral display of all the species and attracts butterflies and hummingbirds. Bees love the flowers too! The plant grows 15 inches tall and has fuzzy purple to red flowers from early to late summer. It is an herbaceous perennial with characteristic clover leaves and a spreading stolen system that allows the plant to clamber over and cover large spaces.
Red clover is even edible and can be used as a tea, animal browse, or sprouted for salads. If you are growing red clover for its edible or medicinal properties, make sure no chemicals are used in the area. Other benefits of growing red clover include its ability to break up soil and prevent erosion.
How to Grow Ornamental Clover Plants
Clover thrives in moist or dry conditions but drainage should be good. Slightly acidic soils with a pH between 6.0 and 6.5 are preferred. You can plant the clover in full sun or partial shade, although full sun provides the best yields. Sow the tiny seeds in a well-prepared bed from January to April or August to November. Plant seeds at ¼ inch deep or even scatter them on the surface of the soil and lightly dust them with earth. Keep them moderately moist until germination, which is generally 14 to 21 days. You may also choose to start plants indoors in flats. Transplant them outside when there are 6 true leaves and soil has warmed. Water established plants regularly. Choose your site carefully, as red clover has a tendency to spread and become invasive.
Red Clover Care
You may choose to cut back seed heads to prevent over-sowing of seeds and invasion of other beds. Otherwise, you can opt to till late summer planted clover in spring to increase soil fertility. Plants sown in late winter to early summer may be allowed to persist as a ground cover and cover crop to combat weeds and enhance soil properties. If you choose to harvest the plant for consumption, take fresh flowers and leaves at any time. Ornamental red clover can be harvested up to three times in the season. You may dry them or use them fresh.
Sprouted clover seeds add a unique texture and flavor to salads and sandwiches. Soak seeds in warm water for 6 hours and then put them in a shallow bowl or seed sprouter. Place the container in a dark location for 3 days, rinsing and draining the seed twice per day. By the fourth day, you should seed sprouts and it is time to move them to a light location to develop green color and maximum nutrients. Use them as you would any sprout.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月29日
As gardeners, some of us grow plants for food, some because they are beautiful and aromatic, and some for the wild critters to feast on, but all of us are interested in a new plant. Unique specimens that will have the neighbors talking include Scorpiurus muricatus plants, also known as prickly scorpion’s tail plant. What is prickly scorpion’s tail and is Scorpiurus muricatus edible? Let’s learn more about caring for prickly scorpion’s tail.
What is Prickly Scorpion’s Tail?
Scorpiurus muricatus is an unusual annual legume native to southern Europe. Listed by Vilmorin in the 1800’s, the plant has unique pods that twist and roll in upon themselves. The name “prickly scorpion’s tail” was no doubt given due to the resemblance but its other common name of “prickly caterpillar” is far more apt in my opinion. The pods do indeed look just like fuzzy, green caterpillars. Scorpiurus muricatus plants are most often used as a ground cover. They have lovely tiny yellow flowers that are hermaphroditic, having both male and female organs. This herbaceous annual blooms continuously from mid-summer. A member of the Papilionacea family, the plants attain a height of between 6-12 inches.
Caring for Prickly Scorpion’s Tail
Seeds can be direct sown outdoors after all danger of frost has passed or inside for a jump start. Sow seed ¼ inch beneath the soil 3-4 weeks before the last frost if sowing indoors. Germination time for prickly scorpion’s tail is 10-14 days. Choose a site in sun to partial shade. The plant is not too picky regarding its soil and can be sown in sandy, loamy or even heavy clay as long as the soil is well draining. Soil can be acidic, neutral to alkaline. When caring for prickly scorpion’s tail, keep the plants moist to a little dry, not sodden.
Oh, and the burning question. Is Scorpiurus muricatus edible? Yes, but it has an uninteresting flavor and is a bit prickly. It would make a great icebreaker at your next party tossed casually in amongst the green salad though! This plant is fun and a historical oddity. Allow the pods to dry on the plant and then break them open to collect the seeds. Then pass them on to a friend so he/she can gross out the kids with caterpillars in their food.
What is Prickly Scorpion’s Tail?
Scorpiurus muricatus is an unusual annual legume native to southern Europe. Listed by Vilmorin in the 1800’s, the plant has unique pods that twist and roll in upon themselves. The name “prickly scorpion’s tail” was no doubt given due to the resemblance but its other common name of “prickly caterpillar” is far more apt in my opinion. The pods do indeed look just like fuzzy, green caterpillars. Scorpiurus muricatus plants are most often used as a ground cover. They have lovely tiny yellow flowers that are hermaphroditic, having both male and female organs. This herbaceous annual blooms continuously from mid-summer. A member of the Papilionacea family, the plants attain a height of between 6-12 inches.
Caring for Prickly Scorpion’s Tail
Seeds can be direct sown outdoors after all danger of frost has passed or inside for a jump start. Sow seed ¼ inch beneath the soil 3-4 weeks before the last frost if sowing indoors. Germination time for prickly scorpion’s tail is 10-14 days. Choose a site in sun to partial shade. The plant is not too picky regarding its soil and can be sown in sandy, loamy or even heavy clay as long as the soil is well draining. Soil can be acidic, neutral to alkaline. When caring for prickly scorpion’s tail, keep the plants moist to a little dry, not sodden.
Oh, and the burning question. Is Scorpiurus muricatus edible? Yes, but it has an uninteresting flavor and is a bit prickly. It would make a great icebreaker at your next party tossed casually in amongst the green salad though! This plant is fun and a historical oddity. Allow the pods to dry on the plant and then break them open to collect the seeds. Then pass them on to a friend so he/she can gross out the kids with caterpillars in their food.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月29日
The common periwinkle plant (Vinca minor) is often spotted creeping down steep hillsides and banks, offering a green and growing affect in areas which might otherwise be bare. The periwinkle plant is exceptional as an erosion control specimen. Periwinkle is also used as a spreading shrub in USDA garden zones 4 to 8. Periwinkle is often also called creeping vinca. Periwinkle is most often grown as a ground cover. The periwinkle plant takes its common name from the attractive blooms that dot the foliage in April to May, appearing in the color of periwinkle blue. More than 30 varieties of this plant exist, some with variegated foliage and other colors of blooms. When planting periwinkle, choose what best suits your landscape.
How to Grow Periwinkle Plants
This broadleaf evergreen plant grows easily and periwinkle care most often involves keeping the prolific spreader in check. Periwinkle, once established, is drought resistant and needs little other care if properly sited in the landscape. Periwinkle care after planting may include the removal of tall weeds in the area. Once established, growing periwinkle will likely shade out future growth of weeds and eliminate this chore.
The periwinkle plant grows best in a partially shaded area in acidic soil; however, it can thrive in a variety of sunlight and soil conditions. Growing periwinkle in partial shade creates more vigorous growth. In many instances, extreme vigor may not be desirable unless the periwinkle plant needs to cover a large area. One small plant can spread to 8 feet across. Growing periwinkle as a ground cover is common as it rarely reaches more than 4 inches in height. Periwinkle is best used for controlling erosion as described above. Do not plant near other specimens in the flower bed or garden, as it may overtake and choke out valuable plantings. This plant may be used as a climber on a non-living support and is useful for blocking views when used in this way.
Before planting periwinkle, make sure it is what you want in the area, as it is difficult to remove once established. Periwinkle appears low on the exotic invasive list, but can escape cultivation in the garden. It is rarely found escaping into undisturbed woodlands. Now that you know how to grow periwinkle and manage its growth, you can make an informed decision before planting the specimen in your landscape. Periwinkle ground cover should not be confused with annual periwinkle, as annual periwinkle (Catharanthus roseus) is a different plant.
How to Grow Periwinkle Plants
This broadleaf evergreen plant grows easily and periwinkle care most often involves keeping the prolific spreader in check. Periwinkle, once established, is drought resistant and needs little other care if properly sited in the landscape. Periwinkle care after planting may include the removal of tall weeds in the area. Once established, growing periwinkle will likely shade out future growth of weeds and eliminate this chore.
The periwinkle plant grows best in a partially shaded area in acidic soil; however, it can thrive in a variety of sunlight and soil conditions. Growing periwinkle in partial shade creates more vigorous growth. In many instances, extreme vigor may not be desirable unless the periwinkle plant needs to cover a large area. One small plant can spread to 8 feet across. Growing periwinkle as a ground cover is common as it rarely reaches more than 4 inches in height. Periwinkle is best used for controlling erosion as described above. Do not plant near other specimens in the flower bed or garden, as it may overtake and choke out valuable plantings. This plant may be used as a climber on a non-living support and is useful for blocking views when used in this way.
Before planting periwinkle, make sure it is what you want in the area, as it is difficult to remove once established. Periwinkle appears low on the exotic invasive list, but can escape cultivation in the garden. It is rarely found escaping into undisturbed woodlands. Now that you know how to grow periwinkle and manage its growth, you can make an informed decision before planting the specimen in your landscape. Periwinkle ground cover should not be confused with annual periwinkle, as annual periwinkle (Catharanthus roseus) is a different plant.
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Miss Chen
2017年08月29日
Deadheading is a type of pruning where faded blooms are removed from a plant. Plants, particularly roses, are deadheaded to extend the amount of time the plant produces flowers, keep the plant compact and tidy, and stop the plant from producing seeds. Knockout roses are deadheaded to keep the plant looking tidy as this rose produces blooms from mid to late spring through fall even without deadheading. Knockout roses produce flushes of blooms every five to six weeks. Removing faded blooms can decrease the time between bloom production and increase the size and quality of the flowers.
Disinfect Shears
Step 1
Make a disinfecting/sanitizing solution using bleach and water. Use a 1:10 dilution (1 part bleach to 10 parts water). Mixing the solution in a graded (has units of measurement on the side) bucket makes the solution portable as well as easier to mix. Sterilize your pruning shears in the 1:10 bleach solution between plants. Sterilize your pruning shears between cuts if you have a rose with a fungal or bacterial disease. Dip the cutting blades in the 1:10 solution. Open and close the blades several times while submerged. The blades do not have to dry before you start pruning.
Step 2
Prune faded and damaged blooms 1/2 to 1 inch above the nearest strong buds (the place where leaves and branches emerge) or branches.
Step 3
Avoid scratches and scrapes caused by rose thorns by wearing rose gloves or heavy-duty leather work gloves.
Step 4
Make pruning cuts on a 45-degree angle. The cut should angle away (meaning the short end should be closest to the bud or branch) from the bud or branch.
Step 5
Either burn deadheaded blooms or place in a trash bag and set out for trash pickup.
Disinfect Shears
Step 1
Make a disinfecting/sanitizing solution using bleach and water. Use a 1:10 dilution (1 part bleach to 10 parts water). Mixing the solution in a graded (has units of measurement on the side) bucket makes the solution portable as well as easier to mix. Sterilize your pruning shears in the 1:10 bleach solution between plants. Sterilize your pruning shears between cuts if you have a rose with a fungal or bacterial disease. Dip the cutting blades in the 1:10 solution. Open and close the blades several times while submerged. The blades do not have to dry before you start pruning.
Step 2
Prune faded and damaged blooms 1/2 to 1 inch above the nearest strong buds (the place where leaves and branches emerge) or branches.
Step 3
Avoid scratches and scrapes caused by rose thorns by wearing rose gloves or heavy-duty leather work gloves.
Step 4
Make pruning cuts on a 45-degree angle. The cut should angle away (meaning the short end should be closest to the bud or branch) from the bud or branch.
Step 5
Either burn deadheaded blooms or place in a trash bag and set out for trash pickup.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月29日
If you are looking for a ground cover or rockery plant with contrasting color and unique texture, look no further than partridge feather ground cover. What types of partridge flower info do you need to know to successfully grow partridge feather flowers? Read on to find out.
Partridge Flower Info
Interestingly, partridge feather ground cover (Tanacetum densum) was introduced to the U.S. from Southeastern Turkey in the 1950’s but for some reason no one thought to name the plant ‘turkey feather.’ Regardless, the use of the term ‘feather’ is definitely apt. The leaves of the partridge plant look very much like fuzzy, silvery feathers.
An evergreen, the plant might, and more appropriately, be referred to as a low-growing shrub, albeit a very short one. Leaves are 3 inches long and of a soft, wooly texture delicately notched much like feathers. Forming a mounding habit, this perennial has a woody base and attains a height of between 3-5 inches by 15-24 inches across.
Another lovely thing about growing partridge feather flowers is, well, the flowers. The plant bears eye-catching yellow and white button-like blossoms during late June and into early July. They make for a nice contrast against the silvery foliage and add a little bit of drama to the landscape, especially in a large grouping. They also are excellent attractors of butterflies and make nice cutting flowers.
Partridge Feather Growing Conditions
Before trying your hand at growing partridge feather flowers, you must become familiar with partridge feather growing conditions, which may include full sun to part shade. These sun loving, drought tolerant specimens are perfect for use in the rock garden where the contrast of the silver leaves is striking amidst the greens of other foliage. It also has a habit of crawling over and down stones, and enjoys the great drainage that rock gardens employ. Partridge feather tolerates most soil types and conditions, with the exception of overly wet or humid weather.
It is USDA hardy to zones 4-9. Once the plant is established, it requires very little irrigation, so caring for partridge feather plants couldn’t be easier. Companion plants that work well with partridge flower include:
Winecups
Mexican Hat Coneflower
Coral Canyon Twinspur
Mojave Sage
Johnson’s Blue Geranium
Partridge feather has few to no pests. Some care should be around the leaves, however, since they may irritate the skin of some people. All in all, a striking and easy to care for plant often used in xeriscape gardening, partridge feather flower makes a unique addition to the landscape.
Partridge Flower Info
Interestingly, partridge feather ground cover (Tanacetum densum) was introduced to the U.S. from Southeastern Turkey in the 1950’s but for some reason no one thought to name the plant ‘turkey feather.’ Regardless, the use of the term ‘feather’ is definitely apt. The leaves of the partridge plant look very much like fuzzy, silvery feathers.
An evergreen, the plant might, and more appropriately, be referred to as a low-growing shrub, albeit a very short one. Leaves are 3 inches long and of a soft, wooly texture delicately notched much like feathers. Forming a mounding habit, this perennial has a woody base and attains a height of between 3-5 inches by 15-24 inches across.
Another lovely thing about growing partridge feather flowers is, well, the flowers. The plant bears eye-catching yellow and white button-like blossoms during late June and into early July. They make for a nice contrast against the silvery foliage and add a little bit of drama to the landscape, especially in a large grouping. They also are excellent attractors of butterflies and make nice cutting flowers.
Partridge Feather Growing Conditions
Before trying your hand at growing partridge feather flowers, you must become familiar with partridge feather growing conditions, which may include full sun to part shade. These sun loving, drought tolerant specimens are perfect for use in the rock garden where the contrast of the silver leaves is striking amidst the greens of other foliage. It also has a habit of crawling over and down stones, and enjoys the great drainage that rock gardens employ. Partridge feather tolerates most soil types and conditions, with the exception of overly wet or humid weather.
It is USDA hardy to zones 4-9. Once the plant is established, it requires very little irrigation, so caring for partridge feather plants couldn’t be easier. Companion plants that work well with partridge flower include:
Winecups
Mexican Hat Coneflower
Coral Canyon Twinspur
Mojave Sage
Johnson’s Blue Geranium
Partridge feather has few to no pests. Some care should be around the leaves, however, since they may irritate the skin of some people. All in all, a striking and easy to care for plant often used in xeriscape gardening, partridge feather flower makes a unique addition to the landscape.
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Miss Chen
2017年08月29日
Best grown in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 7 to 9, the confederate rose (Hibiscus mutabilis) features large, showy flowers that start off white but quickly change to deep pink or reddish pink, with a blueish cast near the end of their bloom cycle. Especially enchanting is the fact that these cycles happen on different parts of the large bush simultaneously, so that the plant appears to feature multi-colored blooms.
Step 1
Site the planting area where the confederate rose will receive full sun, or dappled shade in the hotter part of its range. The confederate rose is best grown as a specimen tree or large shrub, but if planted in a border should have at least 5 feet on either side.
Step 2
Prepare the planting area. Although confederate roses adapt well to most soil conditions, working a 2-inch layer of compost into the soil will help improve the nutrition and texture of the soil. Work the compost about 12 inches deep throughout an area that's about 100 feet square. This will improve the nutrient level and soil texture throughout the eventual growing zone.
Step 3
Dig a hole that is about the depth of the shrub's root ball, and at least twice as wide. Set the confederate rose in the hole, and backfill the hole with soil. Press down on the soil to remove airpockets, and water the area deeply.
Step 4
Mulch the area around the confederate rose with a 2-inch layer of wood chips or other organic material. Keep the mulch several inches away from the base of the shrub itself.
Step 5
Check the soil around the confederate shrub daily in the first few month after planting. To get them off to the best start, young shrubs need consistently moist soil during their first growing season.
Step 6
Water about every two weeks as the confederate rose matures. Shrubs should be watered to a depth of about 2 feet. If you are not able to water as often or as deeply as recommended for shrubs like the confederate rose that prefer moderate watering, take heart. Confederate roses are somewhat drought tolerant, although they may experience some wilting in scorching heat and no water.
Step 7
Prune the confederate rose, if size is a concern. Many gardeners only lightly shear the shrubs for a more even silhouette. It is possible, however, to cut a to a confederate rose to a height of 12 inches during dormancy, which will allow it to grow to a moderate and bushier height the following season. Sterilize the shears after pruning by misting them with, or dipping them into, a cleaning solution such as bleach or rubbing alcohol. Wipe them dry after their treatment.
Step 8
Spread a 1- to 2-inch layer of compost around the shrub each spring, starting from a few inches away for the base to under the plant's outermost branches. This action will continue to improve the growing environment as the confederate rose matures.
Step 1
Site the planting area where the confederate rose will receive full sun, or dappled shade in the hotter part of its range. The confederate rose is best grown as a specimen tree or large shrub, but if planted in a border should have at least 5 feet on either side.
Step 2
Prepare the planting area. Although confederate roses adapt well to most soil conditions, working a 2-inch layer of compost into the soil will help improve the nutrition and texture of the soil. Work the compost about 12 inches deep throughout an area that's about 100 feet square. This will improve the nutrient level and soil texture throughout the eventual growing zone.
Step 3
Dig a hole that is about the depth of the shrub's root ball, and at least twice as wide. Set the confederate rose in the hole, and backfill the hole with soil. Press down on the soil to remove airpockets, and water the area deeply.
Step 4
Mulch the area around the confederate rose with a 2-inch layer of wood chips or other organic material. Keep the mulch several inches away from the base of the shrub itself.
Step 5
Check the soil around the confederate shrub daily in the first few month after planting. To get them off to the best start, young shrubs need consistently moist soil during their first growing season.
Step 6
Water about every two weeks as the confederate rose matures. Shrubs should be watered to a depth of about 2 feet. If you are not able to water as often or as deeply as recommended for shrubs like the confederate rose that prefer moderate watering, take heart. Confederate roses are somewhat drought tolerant, although they may experience some wilting in scorching heat and no water.
Step 7
Prune the confederate rose, if size is a concern. Many gardeners only lightly shear the shrubs for a more even silhouette. It is possible, however, to cut a to a confederate rose to a height of 12 inches during dormancy, which will allow it to grow to a moderate and bushier height the following season. Sterilize the shears after pruning by misting them with, or dipping them into, a cleaning solution such as bleach or rubbing alcohol. Wipe them dry after their treatment.
Step 8
Spread a 1- to 2-inch layer of compost around the shrub each spring, starting from a few inches away for the base to under the plant's outermost branches. This action will continue to improve the growing environment as the confederate rose matures.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月29日
For the most part, monkey grass, also known as lilyturf, is a hardy plant. It is frequently used in landscaping for borders and edging. But, despite the fact that monkey grass is able to take a lot of abuse, it is still susceptible to disease. One disease in particular is crown rot.
What is Monkey Grass Crown Rot?
Monkey grass crown rot, like any crown rot disease, is caused by a fungus that thrives in moist and warm conditions. Normally, this problem is found in warmer, more humid states, but it can occur in cooler areas as well.
Symptoms of Monkey Grass Crown Rot
The signs of monkey grass crown rot are a yellowing of the older leaves from the base of the plant. Eventually, the whole leaf will turn yellow from the bottom up. Younger leaves will turn brown before reaching maturity. You may also notice a white, thread-like substance in the soil around the plant. This is the fungus. There may be tiny white to reddish brown balls scattered around the base of the plant too. This is also the crown rot fungus.
Treatment for Monkey Grass Crown Rot
Unfortunately, there is no effective treatment for monkey grass crown rot. You should immediately remove any infected plants from the area and treat the area repeatedly with fungicide. Even with treatment, however, you may not be able to rid the area of the crown rot fungus, and it may spread to other plants. Avoid planting anything new in the area that may also be susceptible to crown rot. There are over 200 plants that are susceptible to crown rot. Some of the more popular plants include:
Hostas
Peonies
Bleeding heart
Daylilies
Periwinkle
Lily-of-the-valley
What is Monkey Grass Crown Rot?
Monkey grass crown rot, like any crown rot disease, is caused by a fungus that thrives in moist and warm conditions. Normally, this problem is found in warmer, more humid states, but it can occur in cooler areas as well.
Symptoms of Monkey Grass Crown Rot
The signs of monkey grass crown rot are a yellowing of the older leaves from the base of the plant. Eventually, the whole leaf will turn yellow from the bottom up. Younger leaves will turn brown before reaching maturity. You may also notice a white, thread-like substance in the soil around the plant. This is the fungus. There may be tiny white to reddish brown balls scattered around the base of the plant too. This is also the crown rot fungus.
Treatment for Monkey Grass Crown Rot
Unfortunately, there is no effective treatment for monkey grass crown rot. You should immediately remove any infected plants from the area and treat the area repeatedly with fungicide. Even with treatment, however, you may not be able to rid the area of the crown rot fungus, and it may spread to other plants. Avoid planting anything new in the area that may also be susceptible to crown rot. There are over 200 plants that are susceptible to crown rot. Some of the more popular plants include:
Hostas
Peonies
Bleeding heart
Daylilies
Periwinkle
Lily-of-the-valley
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月29日
What is Lithodora? Botanically known as Lithodora diffusa, this plant is a hardy ground cover that produces masses of tiny, intensely blue, star-shaped flowers from late spring throughout most of summer. What to know more about growing Lithodora ground cover? Read on to find out.
Lithodora Plant Information
Lithodora planted in gardens reaches heights of only 6 to 10 inches (15-25 cm.), but a single plant can eventually spread 24 to 36 inches (61-91 cm.). You can easily grow Lithodora in gardens in USDA plant hardiness zones 6 through 10. In the more southern ranges, the dense covering of narrow, dark-green leaves remain green year round.
Lithodora ground cover is a great choice for rock gardens. It also works well in window boxes or containers. Lithodora is relatively easy to find in garden centers. Otherwise, plant Lithodora seeds directly in the garden, or start them indoors a few weeks ahead of time. You can also propagate cuttings from established plants in mid- to late summer.
Growing Lithodora Ground Cover
Acidic, well-drained soil is best for growing Lithodora in gardens. Sandy soil is fine, but the plant won’t tolerate heavy clay soil. Although Lithodora thrives in full sunlight, partial shade isn’t a problem. Afternoon shade is best in hot climates. As for the care of Lithodora, water the plant regularly and don’t allow the soil to become bone dry. However, beware of overwatering and avoid soggy, waterlogged soil. Apply mulch in autumn if you live in a cooler region. Prune Lithodora lightly if it looks straggly, or if the leaves are damaged by winter cold.
Lithodora generally requires no fertilizer unless the leaves turn pale greenish-yellow. If this occurs, provide a fertilizer for rhododendron, azalea or other acid-loving plants in late winter or very early spring. If you notice aphids, treat the plant with insecticidal soap spray. Otherwise, pests are usually not a problem.
Lithodora Plant Information
Lithodora planted in gardens reaches heights of only 6 to 10 inches (15-25 cm.), but a single plant can eventually spread 24 to 36 inches (61-91 cm.). You can easily grow Lithodora in gardens in USDA plant hardiness zones 6 through 10. In the more southern ranges, the dense covering of narrow, dark-green leaves remain green year round.
Lithodora ground cover is a great choice for rock gardens. It also works well in window boxes or containers. Lithodora is relatively easy to find in garden centers. Otherwise, plant Lithodora seeds directly in the garden, or start them indoors a few weeks ahead of time. You can also propagate cuttings from established plants in mid- to late summer.
Growing Lithodora Ground Cover
Acidic, well-drained soil is best for growing Lithodora in gardens. Sandy soil is fine, but the plant won’t tolerate heavy clay soil. Although Lithodora thrives in full sunlight, partial shade isn’t a problem. Afternoon shade is best in hot climates. As for the care of Lithodora, water the plant regularly and don’t allow the soil to become bone dry. However, beware of overwatering and avoid soggy, waterlogged soil. Apply mulch in autumn if you live in a cooler region. Prune Lithodora lightly if it looks straggly, or if the leaves are damaged by winter cold.
Lithodora generally requires no fertilizer unless the leaves turn pale greenish-yellow. If this occurs, provide a fertilizer for rhododendron, azalea or other acid-loving plants in late winter or very early spring. If you notice aphids, treat the plant with insecticidal soap spray. Otherwise, pests are usually not a problem.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月29日
What is a Mexican heather plant? Also known as false heather, Mexican heather (Cuphea hyssopifolia) is a flowering groundcover that produces masses of bright green leaves. Small pink, white or lavender flowers decorate the plant throughout most of the year. Mexican heather plants, which actually aren’t members of the heather family, are suitable for growing in the warm climates of USDA plant hardiness zones 9 to 11. You can grow Mexican heather as an annual if you live in a chillier climate.
How to Plant Mexican Heather
Planting Mexican heather is uninvolved, although the plant benefits from a little added compost or manure if soil is poor. Allow at least 18 inches (46 cm.) between each plant. This tough, drought-tolerant plant loves direct sunlight and thrives in intense heat. Remember that although Mexican heather plants grow in a wide range of soils, good drainage is critical.
Care of Mexican Heather
Water Mexican heather plants deeply about once every week, then allow the soil to dry slightly before watering again. Container plants will need water more often, especially during the summer months. Prune Mexican heather lightly during the spring if the plant looks scraggly or overgrown. Otherwise, no pruning is required. Surround the plant with a thin layer of mulch in spring to minimize moisture evaporation and keep weeds in check. Feed the plant in spring, summer and fall, using a balanced, general-purpose fertilizer.
Healthy Mexican heather plants are seldom bothered by insects. However, if you notice spider mites during hot, dry weather, treat the pests with insecticidal soap spray on a day when the sun isn’t directly on the plant. Insecticidal soap spray with a few drops of rubbing alcohol will also take care of flea beetles.
How to Plant Mexican Heather
Planting Mexican heather is uninvolved, although the plant benefits from a little added compost or manure if soil is poor. Allow at least 18 inches (46 cm.) between each plant. This tough, drought-tolerant plant loves direct sunlight and thrives in intense heat. Remember that although Mexican heather plants grow in a wide range of soils, good drainage is critical.
Care of Mexican Heather
Water Mexican heather plants deeply about once every week, then allow the soil to dry slightly before watering again. Container plants will need water more often, especially during the summer months. Prune Mexican heather lightly during the spring if the plant looks scraggly or overgrown. Otherwise, no pruning is required. Surround the plant with a thin layer of mulch in spring to minimize moisture evaporation and keep weeds in check. Feed the plant in spring, summer and fall, using a balanced, general-purpose fertilizer.
Healthy Mexican heather plants are seldom bothered by insects. However, if you notice spider mites during hot, dry weather, treat the pests with insecticidal soap spray on a day when the sun isn’t directly on the plant. Insecticidal soap spray with a few drops of rubbing alcohol will also take care of flea beetles.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月29日
In some places dichondra, a low growing plant and member of the morning glory family, is seen as a weed. In other places, however, it is valued as an attractive ground cover or even a substitute for a small lawn area. Let’s find out more about how to grow dichondra ground cover.
Dichondra Plant Info
Dichondra (Dichondra repens) is a perennial ground cover plant (in USDA zones 7-11) that has a somewhat upright, creeping habit with circular leaves. It is not usually over 2 inches in height and retains its bright green color in temperatures as low as 25 F. (-3 C.). When this ground cover becomes full, it appears as a dense carpet-like grass and is often planted in places where other turf-type grass does not grow well.
Silver dichondra is a green-silver annual ground cover that is often used in hanging baskets and pots. The cascading habit also makes this attractive plant perfect for rock walls or window boxes. This low maintenance plant with fan-shaped foliage, does well in full sun, requires only minimal care and is drought resistant.
How to Grow Dichondra
Proper preparation of the seedbed is essential to growing dichondra plants. A weed-free raked area is best. Dichondra prefers loose, clod-free and well-drained soil in partial shade to full sun. Seed should be lightly scattered over the loosened soil bed and watered until wet but not soggy. Depending on how sunny the planting area is, seeds may need to be watered a few times a day until they begin to sprout. Covering the seeds with a light layer of peat moss helps with moisture retention.
It is best to plant seed when the temperatures are in the 70’s (21 C.) during the day and the 50’s (10 C.) at night. This can be in either early spring or even early fall. The growing dichondra seeds will sprout within 7 to 14 days depending on conditions.
Dichondra Care
Once plants are established, a deep and infrequent watering is necessary. It is best to allow the plants to dry out slightly between watering. If using as a lawn alternative, the dichondra can be mowed to a suitable height. Most people find that mowing to around 1 ½ inches in the summer is best and requires cutting every two weeks. Provide ½ to 1 pound of nitrogen per month during the growing season for a healthy cover.
Apply a pre-emergent weed control on the ground cover to keep weeds at bay. Never use an herbicide containing 2-4D on dichondra plants, as they will die. Remove broadleaf weeds by hand for best results.
Dichondra Plant Info
Dichondra (Dichondra repens) is a perennial ground cover plant (in USDA zones 7-11) that has a somewhat upright, creeping habit with circular leaves. It is not usually over 2 inches in height and retains its bright green color in temperatures as low as 25 F. (-3 C.). When this ground cover becomes full, it appears as a dense carpet-like grass and is often planted in places where other turf-type grass does not grow well.
Silver dichondra is a green-silver annual ground cover that is often used in hanging baskets and pots. The cascading habit also makes this attractive plant perfect for rock walls or window boxes. This low maintenance plant with fan-shaped foliage, does well in full sun, requires only minimal care and is drought resistant.
How to Grow Dichondra
Proper preparation of the seedbed is essential to growing dichondra plants. A weed-free raked area is best. Dichondra prefers loose, clod-free and well-drained soil in partial shade to full sun. Seed should be lightly scattered over the loosened soil bed and watered until wet but not soggy. Depending on how sunny the planting area is, seeds may need to be watered a few times a day until they begin to sprout. Covering the seeds with a light layer of peat moss helps with moisture retention.
It is best to plant seed when the temperatures are in the 70’s (21 C.) during the day and the 50’s (10 C.) at night. This can be in either early spring or even early fall. The growing dichondra seeds will sprout within 7 to 14 days depending on conditions.
Dichondra Care
Once plants are established, a deep and infrequent watering is necessary. It is best to allow the plants to dry out slightly between watering. If using as a lawn alternative, the dichondra can be mowed to a suitable height. Most people find that mowing to around 1 ½ inches in the summer is best and requires cutting every two weeks. Provide ½ to 1 pound of nitrogen per month during the growing season for a healthy cover.
Apply a pre-emergent weed control on the ground cover to keep weeds at bay. Never use an herbicide containing 2-4D on dichondra plants, as they will die. Remove broadleaf weeds by hand for best results.
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