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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月30日
It’s no wonder the scientific name of the exceptional Bismarck palm is Bismarckia nobilis. It’s one of the most elegant, massive and desirable fan palms you can plant. With a stout trunk and symmetrical crown, it makes a great focal point in your backyard.
Planting Bismarck Palm Trees
Bismarck palms are huge, gracious trees native to the island of Madagascar, off the east coast of Africa. If you are planting Bismarck palm trees, be sure that you reserve enough space. Each tree can grow to 60 feet high with a spread of 16 feet.
In fact, everything about this attractive tree is oversized. The silvery-green copalmate leaves can grow to 4 feet wide, and it isn’t unusual to see trunks as thick as 18 inches in diameter. Experts do not recommend growing Bismarck palms in a small backyard since they tend to dominate the space. Growing Bismarck palms is easiest in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 10 through 11, since the species can be damaged by freezing temperatures. Bismarck palm care is not difficult or time-consuming once the tree is established in an appropriate location.
Growing Bismarck Palms
Plant this stunning palm in full sun if you can, but you can succeed at growing Bismarck palms in partial sun too. Select a wind-protected area if possible, since these trees can be injured in windstorms. Soil type is not critical, and you’ll do fine planting Bismarck palm trees in either sand or loam. Keep an eye out for soil deficiencies. When you are trying to care for a Bismarck palm tree, you will have problems if your soil lacks potassium, magnesium or boron. If a soil test reveals a deficiency, correct it by using a controlled-release granular fertilizer of 8-2-12 plus micronutrients.
Bismarck Palm Care
Aside from mineral deficiencies, you won’t have much to worry about to care for a Bismarck palm tree. Irrigation is important when the palm is young, but established palms are drought tolerant. They also resist disease and pests. You can prune this palm during every season. However, only remove leaves that are completely dead. Cutting partially dead leaves attracts pests and depletes a palm’s potassium supply.
Planting Bismarck Palm Trees
Bismarck palms are huge, gracious trees native to the island of Madagascar, off the east coast of Africa. If you are planting Bismarck palm trees, be sure that you reserve enough space. Each tree can grow to 60 feet high with a spread of 16 feet.
In fact, everything about this attractive tree is oversized. The silvery-green copalmate leaves can grow to 4 feet wide, and it isn’t unusual to see trunks as thick as 18 inches in diameter. Experts do not recommend growing Bismarck palms in a small backyard since they tend to dominate the space. Growing Bismarck palms is easiest in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 10 through 11, since the species can be damaged by freezing temperatures. Bismarck palm care is not difficult or time-consuming once the tree is established in an appropriate location.
Growing Bismarck Palms
Plant this stunning palm in full sun if you can, but you can succeed at growing Bismarck palms in partial sun too. Select a wind-protected area if possible, since these trees can be injured in windstorms. Soil type is not critical, and you’ll do fine planting Bismarck palm trees in either sand or loam. Keep an eye out for soil deficiencies. When you are trying to care for a Bismarck palm tree, you will have problems if your soil lacks potassium, magnesium or boron. If a soil test reveals a deficiency, correct it by using a controlled-release granular fertilizer of 8-2-12 plus micronutrients.
Bismarck Palm Care
Aside from mineral deficiencies, you won’t have much to worry about to care for a Bismarck palm tree. Irrigation is important when the palm is young, but established palms are drought tolerant. They also resist disease and pests. You can prune this palm during every season. However, only remove leaves that are completely dead. Cutting partially dead leaves attracts pests and depletes a palm’s potassium supply.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月30日
Ash yellows is a devastating disease of ash trees and related plants. It can infect lilacs as well. Find out how to recognize the disease and what you can do to prevent it in this article.
What is Ash Yellows?
Ash yellows is a newly discovered plant disease, first detected in the 1980’s. It probably existed long before that, but wasn’t detected because the symptoms are so similar to those of other plant diseases. In many cases, you won’t be able to get a firm diagnosis without laboratory tests. A tiny, mycoplasma-like organism that we call the ash yellows phytoplasma causes the infection. A disease that infects members of the ash (Fraxinus) family, ash yellows only exists in North America. The symptoms are similar to those of environmental stress and opportunistic fungi. Although we see it most often in white and green ash trees, several other species of ash can also become infected.
Symptoms of Ash Yellows
Ash yellows doesn’t discriminate about location. We find it in commercial woodlots, natural forests, home landscapes and urban plantings. Dieback may be rapid or very slow. Although it may be several years before the tree deteriorates to the point where it is unsightly or a danger to your landscaping and buildings, it’s best to remove it promptly to prevent the spread of disease. Replace it with trees that aren’t members of the ash family. It may be as long as three years after infection before the symptoms of ash yellows appear. An infected tree usually grows at about half the rate of a healthy tree. Leaves may be smaller, thinner, and pale in color. Infected trees often produce tufts of twigs or branches, called witches’ brooms.
There is no effective ash yellows disease treatment. The disease is spread from plant to plant by insects. The best course of action if you have a tree with ash yellows is to remove the tree to prevent the spread to other trees. Does this mean that you have to give up ash trees and lilacs in the landscape? If you know there is a problem with ash yellows in the area, don’t plant ash trees. You can plant lilacs as long as you choose common lilacs. Common lilacs and hybrids of common lilacs are known to resist ash tree yellows.
What is Ash Yellows?
Ash yellows is a newly discovered plant disease, first detected in the 1980’s. It probably existed long before that, but wasn’t detected because the symptoms are so similar to those of other plant diseases. In many cases, you won’t be able to get a firm diagnosis without laboratory tests. A tiny, mycoplasma-like organism that we call the ash yellows phytoplasma causes the infection. A disease that infects members of the ash (Fraxinus) family, ash yellows only exists in North America. The symptoms are similar to those of environmental stress and opportunistic fungi. Although we see it most often in white and green ash trees, several other species of ash can also become infected.
Symptoms of Ash Yellows
Ash yellows doesn’t discriminate about location. We find it in commercial woodlots, natural forests, home landscapes and urban plantings. Dieback may be rapid or very slow. Although it may be several years before the tree deteriorates to the point where it is unsightly or a danger to your landscaping and buildings, it’s best to remove it promptly to prevent the spread of disease. Replace it with trees that aren’t members of the ash family. It may be as long as three years after infection before the symptoms of ash yellows appear. An infected tree usually grows at about half the rate of a healthy tree. Leaves may be smaller, thinner, and pale in color. Infected trees often produce tufts of twigs or branches, called witches’ brooms.
There is no effective ash yellows disease treatment. The disease is spread from plant to plant by insects. The best course of action if you have a tree with ash yellows is to remove the tree to prevent the spread to other trees. Does this mean that you have to give up ash trees and lilacs in the landscape? If you know there is a problem with ash yellows in the area, don’t plant ash trees. You can plant lilacs as long as you choose common lilacs. Common lilacs and hybrids of common lilacs are known to resist ash tree yellows.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月30日
What is an African tulip tree? Native to Africa’s tropical rainforests, African tulip tree (Spathodea campanulata) is a big, impressive shade tree that grows only in the non-freezing climates of U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 10 and above. Want to know more about this exotic tree? Interested in knowing how to grow African tulips trees? Keep reading to find out.
Is African Tulip Tree Invasive?
A cousin to the rambunctious trumpet vine, African tulip tree tends to be invasive in tropical climates, such as Hawaii and southern Florida, where it forms dense thickets that interfere with native growth. It is less problematic in drier climates like southern California and central or northern Florida.
African Tulip Tree Information African tulip tree is indeed an impressive specimen with gigantic, reddish-orange or golden yellow trumpet-shaped flowers and huge, glossy leaves. It can reach heights of 80 feet, but growth is usually limited to 60 feet or less with a width of about 40 feet. The flowers are pollinated by birds and bats and the seeds are scattered by water and wind.
How to Grow African Tulip Trees
African tulip trees are somewhat difficult to grow by seed but easy to propagate by taking tip or root cuttings, or by planting suckers. As far as growing conditions, the tree tolerates shade but performs best in full sunlight. Similarly, although it is relatively drought tolerant, African tulip tree is happiest with plenty of moisture. Although it likes rich soil, it will grow in nearly any well-drained soil.
African Tulip Tree Care
Newly planted African tulip trees benefit from regular irrigation. However, once established, the tree requires little attention. It is rarely bothered by pests or disease, but may temporarily shed its leaves during periods of severe drought. African tulip trees should be pruned regularly because the branches, which tend to be brittle, break easily in harsh winds. For this reason, the tree should be planted away from structures or smaller trees that may be damaged.
Is African Tulip Tree Invasive?
A cousin to the rambunctious trumpet vine, African tulip tree tends to be invasive in tropical climates, such as Hawaii and southern Florida, where it forms dense thickets that interfere with native growth. It is less problematic in drier climates like southern California and central or northern Florida.
African Tulip Tree Information African tulip tree is indeed an impressive specimen with gigantic, reddish-orange or golden yellow trumpet-shaped flowers and huge, glossy leaves. It can reach heights of 80 feet, but growth is usually limited to 60 feet or less with a width of about 40 feet. The flowers are pollinated by birds and bats and the seeds are scattered by water and wind.
How to Grow African Tulip Trees
African tulip trees are somewhat difficult to grow by seed but easy to propagate by taking tip or root cuttings, or by planting suckers. As far as growing conditions, the tree tolerates shade but performs best in full sunlight. Similarly, although it is relatively drought tolerant, African tulip tree is happiest with plenty of moisture. Although it likes rich soil, it will grow in nearly any well-drained soil.
African Tulip Tree Care
Newly planted African tulip trees benefit from regular irrigation. However, once established, the tree requires little attention. It is rarely bothered by pests or disease, but may temporarily shed its leaves during periods of severe drought. African tulip trees should be pruned regularly because the branches, which tend to be brittle, break easily in harsh winds. For this reason, the tree should be planted away from structures or smaller trees that may be damaged.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月30日
Wedelia is a plant that has some very mixed reviews, and rightly so. While praised by some for its small, bright yellow flowers and ability to prevent erosion, it is also reviled by others for its aggressive spreading tendencies. Keep reading to learn both about growing wedelia groundcover and the dangers of wedelia propagation.
How to Grow Wedelia
Wedelia (Wedelia trilobata) is an herbaceous perennial that’s hardy in USDA zones 8b through 11. It tends to grow to between 18 and 24 inches (45-62 cm.) high. It thrives in full shade, full sun, and everything in between, but it produces flowers most impressively in full sun. Its flowers are its most appealing feature: small, yellow, daisy-like, and very prolific. It can handle a wide range of pH levels and will perform well in virtually any soil. In other words, wedelia plant care is extremely low maintenance. It will grow and thrive almost anywhere as long as the weather is warm enough. The plant is extremely tough and can handle pruning almost down to the ground. The optimal height for blossom production is about 4 inches (10 cm.).
Managing Wedelia Plants
The main aspect of wedelia plant care isn’t making sure it grows well, but rather making sure it doesn’t grow too well. Whenever wedelia stems touch the ground, they take root. This means the plant has an extremely aggressive spreading habit. While this is good news for one of the main wedelia plant uses, holding down soil in otherwise barren sites that are prone to erosion, it makes it very unsuited to backyards and gardens, where it is likely to completely take over.
In some states, it is classified as an invasive species. Check with your local extension office before planting. Even if it’s not an invasive species where you live, be very wary of planting this aggressive groundcover. If you do decide to plant, keep it in check by providing it only minimal water and fertilizer. With ample amounts of either, it will truly take off and overwhelm you.
How to Grow Wedelia
Wedelia (Wedelia trilobata) is an herbaceous perennial that’s hardy in USDA zones 8b through 11. It tends to grow to between 18 and 24 inches (45-62 cm.) high. It thrives in full shade, full sun, and everything in between, but it produces flowers most impressively in full sun. Its flowers are its most appealing feature: small, yellow, daisy-like, and very prolific. It can handle a wide range of pH levels and will perform well in virtually any soil. In other words, wedelia plant care is extremely low maintenance. It will grow and thrive almost anywhere as long as the weather is warm enough. The plant is extremely tough and can handle pruning almost down to the ground. The optimal height for blossom production is about 4 inches (10 cm.).
Managing Wedelia Plants
The main aspect of wedelia plant care isn’t making sure it grows well, but rather making sure it doesn’t grow too well. Whenever wedelia stems touch the ground, they take root. This means the plant has an extremely aggressive spreading habit. While this is good news for one of the main wedelia plant uses, holding down soil in otherwise barren sites that are prone to erosion, it makes it very unsuited to backyards and gardens, where it is likely to completely take over.
In some states, it is classified as an invasive species. Check with your local extension office before planting. Even if it’s not an invasive species where you live, be very wary of planting this aggressive groundcover. If you do decide to plant, keep it in check by providing it only minimal water and fertilizer. With ample amounts of either, it will truly take off and overwhelm you.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月30日
If you’re looking for a ground cover that thrives in deep shade where grass and other plants refuse to grow, look no further than snow on the mountain plant (Ageopodium podograria). Also called bishop’s weed or goutweed, the shallow roots of this quick-growing, deciduous ground cover sit above those of most companion plants so that they don’t interfere with their growth. Solid green varieties provide a lush, uniform appearance, and variegated forms have white highlights that glisten in deep shade.
Growing Snow on the Mountain Ground Cover
Snow on the mountain plant is hardy in USDA plant hardiness zones 3 through 9. Growing Aegopodium is easy in the right location. It tolerates almost any soil as long as it is well-drained, and needs full or partial shade. Shade is particularly important in areas with hot summers. In locations with mild summer temperatures, snow on the mountain ground cover won’t mind some morning sun.
One of the most difficult things about growing Aegopodium is preventing it from spreading into areas where it isn’t wanted. The plants spread by means of brittle underground rhizomes, and digging up unwanted plants often causes them to spread even more because broken bits of rhizomes quickly form new plants.
To compensate for this, install an edging that sinks a few inches under the soil around the bed to contain the plants. If it spreads beyond the desired area, an herbicide may be the only solution. Snow on the mountain plant only responds to herbicides when there is new growth on the plant, so use it in early spring or mow down the plants and allow new growth to emerge before spraying the plants. When growing variegated forms of snow on the mountain plant, you may occasionally see a solid green plant. Dig these plants out immediately, getting rid of as much of the rhizomes as you can. Solid forms are much more vigorous than the variegated ones and will soon overtake the area.
Care of Snow on the Mountain
Bishop’s weed requires very little care. The plants grow best if watered during dry spells. In late spring or early summer, the plants produce small, white flowers. Many growers think the flowers detract from the attractive foliage and pick them off as they appear, but removing the flowers isn’t necessary to keep the plants healthy. After the bloom period, run a lawn mower over the plants to rejuvenate them. They’ll be ankle high again in no time.
Growing Snow on the Mountain Ground Cover
Snow on the mountain plant is hardy in USDA plant hardiness zones 3 through 9. Growing Aegopodium is easy in the right location. It tolerates almost any soil as long as it is well-drained, and needs full or partial shade. Shade is particularly important in areas with hot summers. In locations with mild summer temperatures, snow on the mountain ground cover won’t mind some morning sun.
One of the most difficult things about growing Aegopodium is preventing it from spreading into areas where it isn’t wanted. The plants spread by means of brittle underground rhizomes, and digging up unwanted plants often causes them to spread even more because broken bits of rhizomes quickly form new plants.
To compensate for this, install an edging that sinks a few inches under the soil around the bed to contain the plants. If it spreads beyond the desired area, an herbicide may be the only solution. Snow on the mountain plant only responds to herbicides when there is new growth on the plant, so use it in early spring or mow down the plants and allow new growth to emerge before spraying the plants. When growing variegated forms of snow on the mountain plant, you may occasionally see a solid green plant. Dig these plants out immediately, getting rid of as much of the rhizomes as you can. Solid forms are much more vigorous than the variegated ones and will soon overtake the area.
Care of Snow on the Mountain
Bishop’s weed requires very little care. The plants grow best if watered during dry spells. In late spring or early summer, the plants produce small, white flowers. Many growers think the flowers detract from the attractive foliage and pick them off as they appear, but removing the flowers isn’t necessary to keep the plants healthy. After the bloom period, run a lawn mower over the plants to rejuvenate them. They’ll be ankle high again in no time.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月30日
Also known as goutweed and snow on the mountain, bishop’s weed is a rambunctious plant native to western Asia and Europe. It has naturalized across most of the United States, where it isn’t always welcome due to its extreme invasive tendencies. However, bishop’s weed plant may be just the thing for tough areas with poor soil or excessive shade; it will grow where most plants are doomed to fail. A variegated form of bishop’s weed plant is popular in home gardens. This form, (Aegopodium podagraria ‘Variegatum’) displays small, bluish-green leaves with white edges. The creamy white color provides a luminous effect in shady areas, which probably explains why bishop’s weed plant is also known as “snow on the mountain.” Eventually, you may notice variegation loss in bishop’s weed plants. If your bishop’s weed is losing its variegation, read on for information.
Variegation Loss in Bishop’s Weed
Why is my snow on the mountain losing color? Well, for starters, it’s normal for the variegated form of bishop’s weed to revert back to solid green. You may even notice areas of solid green leaves and variegated leaves mixed together in a single patch. Unfortunately, you may not have much control over this phenomenon.
Variegation loss in bishop’s weed may be more prevalent in shady areas, where the plant has the misfortune of both low light and low chlorophyll, which are required for photosynthesis. Going green may be a survival tactic; as the plant goes green, it produces more chlorophyll and is able to absorb more energy from sunlight.
You may be able to do some trimming and pruning of trees or shrubs that keep your bishop’s weed plant in shade. Otherwise, variegation loss in bishop’s weed is probably irreversible. The only answer is to learn to enjoy the non-variegated, bluish-green leaves. After all, it’s just as attractive.
Variegation Loss in Bishop’s Weed
Why is my snow on the mountain losing color? Well, for starters, it’s normal for the variegated form of bishop’s weed to revert back to solid green. You may even notice areas of solid green leaves and variegated leaves mixed together in a single patch. Unfortunately, you may not have much control over this phenomenon.
Variegation loss in bishop’s weed may be more prevalent in shady areas, where the plant has the misfortune of both low light and low chlorophyll, which are required for photosynthesis. Going green may be a survival tactic; as the plant goes green, it produces more chlorophyll and is able to absorb more energy from sunlight.
You may be able to do some trimming and pruning of trees or shrubs that keep your bishop’s weed plant in shade. Otherwise, variegation loss in bishop’s weed is probably irreversible. The only answer is to learn to enjoy the non-variegated, bluish-green leaves. After all, it’s just as attractive.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月30日
If “snakebush” makes you think of a long, scaly vine, you’re in for a surprise. According to snakebush plant information, this lovely little plant offers delicate mauve flowers that look wonderful in hanging baskets. So exactly what is a snakebush? Read on for tips on growing snakebush plants.
What is a Snakebush Plant?
Native to Western Australia, snakebush bears the scientific name of Hemiandra pungens, and it’s also known as the snake plant. But the only thing snake-like about it is how it stays very close to the ground. Snakebush plant information tells you that this tiny plant offers dense, pointed foliage that looks like needles. Its mauve or light purple flowers arrive in spring and last much of the summer. The flowers grow in tube shapes. Each blossoms has an upper “lip” with two lobes and a lower “lip” with three and carry a sweet fragrance.
Growing Snakebush Plants
Since snakebush is dense, and prostrate, it makes an excellent ground cover. Snakebush ground cover has the added advantage of being drought resistant when mature. You’ll need a sunny location to make this plant happy. Growing snakebush plants is easier in well-drained soil, but the plants will also survive in sites with poor drainage. On the other hand, you may have a hard time finding the seeds in commerce. You can grow snakebush by taking cuttings from a friend’s garden. Growing snakebush is fairly easy from cuttings.
Care of Snakebush
Once you’re able to acquire the snakebush, you’ll find that you won’t have much to do if you plant it in the right location. It is both drought and frost tolerant. Snakebush ground cover accepts temperatures down to 25 degrees Fahrenheit (-4 C.) without any damage. You’ll have a better experience growing snakebush plants if you live in a dry climate. Those gardeners in regions with hot, wet summer will have the hardest time. Care of snakebush plants in humid areas is difficult and the species cannot be grown reliably.
It works well as part of a low-maintenance backyard, beside the swimming pool or a courtyard garden. If you are putting in a cottage or flower garden, include snakebush in the mix.
What is a Snakebush Plant?
Native to Western Australia, snakebush bears the scientific name of Hemiandra pungens, and it’s also known as the snake plant. But the only thing snake-like about it is how it stays very close to the ground. Snakebush plant information tells you that this tiny plant offers dense, pointed foliage that looks like needles. Its mauve or light purple flowers arrive in spring and last much of the summer. The flowers grow in tube shapes. Each blossoms has an upper “lip” with two lobes and a lower “lip” with three and carry a sweet fragrance.
Growing Snakebush Plants
Since snakebush is dense, and prostrate, it makes an excellent ground cover. Snakebush ground cover has the added advantage of being drought resistant when mature. You’ll need a sunny location to make this plant happy. Growing snakebush plants is easier in well-drained soil, but the plants will also survive in sites with poor drainage. On the other hand, you may have a hard time finding the seeds in commerce. You can grow snakebush by taking cuttings from a friend’s garden. Growing snakebush is fairly easy from cuttings.
Care of Snakebush
Once you’re able to acquire the snakebush, you’ll find that you won’t have much to do if you plant it in the right location. It is both drought and frost tolerant. Snakebush ground cover accepts temperatures down to 25 degrees Fahrenheit (-4 C.) without any damage. You’ll have a better experience growing snakebush plants if you live in a dry climate. Those gardeners in regions with hot, wet summer will have the hardest time. Care of snakebush plants in humid areas is difficult and the species cannot be grown reliably.
It works well as part of a low-maintenance backyard, beside the swimming pool or a courtyard garden. If you are putting in a cottage or flower garden, include snakebush in the mix.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月30日
Rock cress is an herbaceous perennial and member of the Brassicaceae or mustard family. The flowers and leaves of rock cress are edible. Growing rock cress requires no special skill and this plant is well suited for the novice gardener. Rock cress has many uses in the garden but its most popular uses are as an attractive border in a rock garden or dangling down over a rock wall or ledge. Rock cresses are alpine plants and will thrive where other plants fail, such as on hills and slopes.
Purple rock cress ground cover (Aubrieta deltoidea) hugs the ground like a mat and displays rich purple flowers in April through the middle of May and has a lovely scent. Rock wall cress (Arabis caucasica) is more likely to bloom in white or pink. Both make attractive low mounds that look great at the edge of retaining wall where they get full sun and excellent drainage.
How to Grow Rock Cress
Rock cress plants are hardy in USDA plant hardiness zones 4-7. They are easily grown from seed and can be directly sown into the garden in early spring or started indoors four to six weeks before the date of your last expected frost. Rock cress prefers full sun but will tolerate some shade, especially in warmer climates. Space rock cress plants 15 to 18 inches apart and they will fill in quickly forming a mat in any open space.
Care of Rock Cress Plants
Regardless of the type you choose to grow, the care of rock cress plants is relatively minimal. Water new rock cress plants regularly and only when the soil is dry once they are established. Rock cress ground cover does well in fair soil that has good drainage, and is slightly acidic. Applying a light pine needle mulch helps retain moisture and increase acidity. A high nitrogen fertilizer can be applied when first planting and a phosphorus fertilizer just after blooming. Rock cress will bloom the second spring after planting and every year after that. Regular pruning to remove dead flowers will keep the plant healthy and encourage new growth.
It is seldom necessary to treat rock cress for pests or disease. Now that you know the basics on how to grow rock cress ground cover, you can add an attractive touch to a rock garden or wall
Purple rock cress ground cover (Aubrieta deltoidea) hugs the ground like a mat and displays rich purple flowers in April through the middle of May and has a lovely scent. Rock wall cress (Arabis caucasica) is more likely to bloom in white or pink. Both make attractive low mounds that look great at the edge of retaining wall where they get full sun and excellent drainage.
How to Grow Rock Cress
Rock cress plants are hardy in USDA plant hardiness zones 4-7. They are easily grown from seed and can be directly sown into the garden in early spring or started indoors four to six weeks before the date of your last expected frost. Rock cress prefers full sun but will tolerate some shade, especially in warmer climates. Space rock cress plants 15 to 18 inches apart and they will fill in quickly forming a mat in any open space.
Care of Rock Cress Plants
Regardless of the type you choose to grow, the care of rock cress plants is relatively minimal. Water new rock cress plants regularly and only when the soil is dry once they are established. Rock cress ground cover does well in fair soil that has good drainage, and is slightly acidic. Applying a light pine needle mulch helps retain moisture and increase acidity. A high nitrogen fertilizer can be applied when first planting and a phosphorus fertilizer just after blooming. Rock cress will bloom the second spring after planting and every year after that. Regular pruning to remove dead flowers will keep the plant healthy and encourage new growth.
It is seldom necessary to treat rock cress for pests or disease. Now that you know the basics on how to grow rock cress ground cover, you can add an attractive touch to a rock garden or wall
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月30日
Pachysandra, also called Japanese spurge, is an evergreen ground cover that looks like a great idea when you plant it–after all, it stays green year round and spreads quickly to fill an area. Unfortunately, this aggressive plant doesn’t know when to stop. Read on for information on removing pachysandra ground cover. Pachysandra is an invasive perennial ground cover that spreads throughout the garden by means of underground stems and roots. Once it gets a foothold in the garden, it is very difficult to control. Pachysandra plants can overrun your garden and escape into wild areas where it displaces native plants.
How to Get Rid of Pachysandra in the Garden
If you find your garden overrun with this ground cover, then you’ll need to know how to control pachysandra plant. There are three ways to get rid of pachysandra in the garden, and none of them are particularly pleasant. Dig it up. Digging is hard work, but it is environmentally safe, and it works well in small areas. Pachysandra has a shallow root system. To make sure you get all of the roots, cut through the foliage and remove the top 4 to 6 inches of soil across the area where the plants grow.
Cover it with black plastic. The soil under the plastic will heat up, and the plastic will deprive the plants of sunlight and water. The drawback is that it is unsightly, and it takes three months to a year to completely kill the plants. Plants in shady areas require the most time. Kill it with chemicals. This is a method of last resort, but if your choice is between using chemicals or giving your landscape over to pachysandra weeds, this may be an option for you.
Pachysandra Removal Tips UsingChemicals
Unfortunately, you’ll have to use a systemic herbicide to get rid of pachysandra. An herbicide containing glyphosate, such as Roundup, is a good choice. Roundup kills any vegetation it comes in contact with, so use it carefully. If you spray it on, choose a calm day so the wind won’t carry it to other plants. Don’t use the herbicide where it may run off into bodies of water. If you have herbicide left over, store it in its original container and out of the reach of children.
How to Get Rid of Pachysandra in the Garden
If you find your garden overrun with this ground cover, then you’ll need to know how to control pachysandra plant. There are three ways to get rid of pachysandra in the garden, and none of them are particularly pleasant. Dig it up. Digging is hard work, but it is environmentally safe, and it works well in small areas. Pachysandra has a shallow root system. To make sure you get all of the roots, cut through the foliage and remove the top 4 to 6 inches of soil across the area where the plants grow.
Cover it with black plastic. The soil under the plastic will heat up, and the plastic will deprive the plants of sunlight and water. The drawback is that it is unsightly, and it takes three months to a year to completely kill the plants. Plants in shady areas require the most time. Kill it with chemicals. This is a method of last resort, but if your choice is between using chemicals or giving your landscape over to pachysandra weeds, this may be an option for you.
Pachysandra Removal Tips UsingChemicals
Unfortunately, you’ll have to use a systemic herbicide to get rid of pachysandra. An herbicide containing glyphosate, such as Roundup, is a good choice. Roundup kills any vegetation it comes in contact with, so use it carefully. If you spray it on, choose a calm day so the wind won’t carry it to other plants. Don’t use the herbicide where it may run off into bodies of water. If you have herbicide left over, store it in its original container and out of the reach of children.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月30日
Japanese pachysandra is a ground cover plant, often used by gardeners in areas too shady to allow grass to grow. When the plant is stressed by too much water on their leaves or too little water to drink, it is prone to certain infectious diseases, including pachysandra Volutella blight (Volutella pachysandrae). Read on for more information about Volutella blight of pachysandra and different kinds of pachysandra leaf blight treatment.
What is Volutella Blight of Pachysandra?
Pachysandra Volutella blight is a type of leaf blight that can be detrimental to pachysandra plants. The first symptoms of this disease are tan spots on the leaves. Although they start small, they grow fast and can cover entire leaves.
The pachysandra leaves yellow and die, while the infected twigs darken and die. When Volutella blight of pachysandra attacks plants during moist weather, you can sometimes spot salmon-colored spores on the blackened twigs. Volutella blight of pachysandra is much more likely to attack your plants if they are crowded together. Wet conditions also increase the risk of pachysandra Volutella blight.
Treating Volutella Blight on Pachysandra
While treating Volutella blight on pachysandra is possible, prevention is always easier than cure when it comes to leaf blight fungal diseases. The very best pachysandra leaf blight treatment is good cultural care to prevent infection. If you keep your plants healthy and vigorous, they are much less likely to get leaf blight. Be sure the pachysandra are healthy when you buy them, and check the leaves carefully for suspicious tan spots. Where to plant your pachysandra? Select a site that gets some sun. Never plant pachysandra in areas of deep shade, or other spots where the plant is likely to retain water on its leaves for a long time. Don’t compromise on soil; it must be well-draining.
Once the plants are established, thin them out during dry periods to prevent densely packed garden beds. It also helps to remove debris from the bed on a regular basis. If, despite your efforts, your pachysandra develops leaf blight, remove and destroy any severely diseased plants. Burn them or bury them to avoid spreading the fungus. If all else fails, consider fungicides. If you decide to use them, start in spring and apply every 7 to 14 days through early summer.
What is Volutella Blight of Pachysandra?
Pachysandra Volutella blight is a type of leaf blight that can be detrimental to pachysandra plants. The first symptoms of this disease are tan spots on the leaves. Although they start small, they grow fast and can cover entire leaves.
The pachysandra leaves yellow and die, while the infected twigs darken and die. When Volutella blight of pachysandra attacks plants during moist weather, you can sometimes spot salmon-colored spores on the blackened twigs. Volutella blight of pachysandra is much more likely to attack your plants if they are crowded together. Wet conditions also increase the risk of pachysandra Volutella blight.
Treating Volutella Blight on Pachysandra
While treating Volutella blight on pachysandra is possible, prevention is always easier than cure when it comes to leaf blight fungal diseases. The very best pachysandra leaf blight treatment is good cultural care to prevent infection. If you keep your plants healthy and vigorous, they are much less likely to get leaf blight. Be sure the pachysandra are healthy when you buy them, and check the leaves carefully for suspicious tan spots. Where to plant your pachysandra? Select a site that gets some sun. Never plant pachysandra in areas of deep shade, or other spots where the plant is likely to retain water on its leaves for a long time. Don’t compromise on soil; it must be well-draining.
Once the plants are established, thin them out during dry periods to prevent densely packed garden beds. It also helps to remove debris from the bed on a regular basis. If, despite your efforts, your pachysandra develops leaf blight, remove and destroy any severely diseased plants. Burn them or bury them to avoid spreading the fungus. If all else fails, consider fungicides. If you decide to use them, start in spring and apply every 7 to 14 days through early summer.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月30日
Pachysandra is a favorite ground cover plant in hard-to-plant areas such as under trees, or in shady areas with poor or acidic soil. Unlike other plants, pachysandra ground cover does not mind competing for its nutrients, and growing pachysandra plants is easy if you have an abundance of shade in your landscape. Learn more about how to plant pachysandra and its care so you can enjoy the small white, fragrant flowers (which appear in the spring) of this low maintenance plant.
How to Plant Pachysandra
There are several varieties of pachysandra available to choose from. The recommended pachysandra growing zone for U.S. Department of Agriculture is 4 through 7.
Pachysandra is easily transplanted from garden flats or divisions in the spring. Space the plants 6 to 12 inches apart to accommodate their spread. Pachysandra prefers soil that is moist and amended with rich organic matter. Make sure the planting area is clear from debris before planting and that the soil is loose. Holes for new plants should be 4 inches deep and 6 inches wide. Pachysandra ground cover has evergreen leaves that will burn in the sun. It is always best to plant on an overcast day and in shady locations. Water new plants thoroughly and provide 2 inches of mulch to help with water retention.
Pachysandra Plant Care
Pachysandra requires only minimal care to look its best. New plants can be pinched back for several years to encourage bushiness. Keep areas of pachysandra free from weeds and monitor young plants during dry weather. Once plants are established, they can handle some period of drought; however, young plants require adequate moisture in order to become established.
Now that you know a little more about pachysandra plant care, you can enjoy this low-growing beauty in the shady spots of your landscape.
How to Plant Pachysandra
There are several varieties of pachysandra available to choose from. The recommended pachysandra growing zone for U.S. Department of Agriculture is 4 through 7.
Pachysandra is easily transplanted from garden flats or divisions in the spring. Space the plants 6 to 12 inches apart to accommodate their spread. Pachysandra prefers soil that is moist and amended with rich organic matter. Make sure the planting area is clear from debris before planting and that the soil is loose. Holes for new plants should be 4 inches deep and 6 inches wide. Pachysandra ground cover has evergreen leaves that will burn in the sun. It is always best to plant on an overcast day and in shady locations. Water new plants thoroughly and provide 2 inches of mulch to help with water retention.
Pachysandra Plant Care
Pachysandra requires only minimal care to look its best. New plants can be pinched back for several years to encourage bushiness. Keep areas of pachysandra free from weeds and monitor young plants during dry weather. Once plants are established, they can handle some period of drought; however, young plants require adequate moisture in order to become established.
Now that you know a little more about pachysandra plant care, you can enjoy this low-growing beauty in the shady spots of your landscape.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月30日
Mazus ground cover is a very tiny perennial plant, growing only two inches tall. It forms a dense mat of foliage that stays green throughout spring and summer, and well into fall. In the summer, it is dotted with tiny blue flowers. Learn to grow mazus in this article.
Mazus Reptans Information
Mazus (Mazus reptans) spreads quickly by means of creeping stems that take root where they touch the ground. Even though the plants spread aggressively to fill in bare spots, they aren’t considered invasive because they don’t become a problem in wild areas.
Native to Asia, Mazus reptans is a tiny perennial that can make a big impact in the landscape. It’s the perfect, quick-growing groundcover for small areas. Plant it at the rate of six plants per square yard for the fastest coverage. You can also grow it in shaped patches with the aid of barriers to stop the spread. Mazus grows well in rock gardens and in the gaps between the rocks in a rock wall. It tolerates light foot traffic so you can plant it in between stepping stones too.
Mazus Reptans Care
Creeping mazus plants need a location in full sun or partial shade. It tolerates moderate to high moisture levels, but the roots shouldn’t stand in water. It can live in soil with low fertility, but the ideal location has fertile, loamy soil. It is suitable for U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 5 through 7 or 8. To grow mazus where you now have a lawn, first remove the grass. Mazus will not outcompete lawn grass, so you need to make sure you take up all the grass and get as much of the roots as possible. You can do this with a flat shovel that has a fairly sharp edge.
Mazus may not require annual fertilization. This is especially true if the soil is rich. Spring is the best time to fertilize the plants if necessary, however. Apply 1 to 1.5 pounds of 12-12-12 fertilizer per 100 square feet. Rinse the leaves thoroughly after applying fertilizer to prevent leaf burn. Growing Mazus reptans is made easy by the fact that it seldom suffers from disease or insect infestation.
Mazus Reptans Information
Mazus (Mazus reptans) spreads quickly by means of creeping stems that take root where they touch the ground. Even though the plants spread aggressively to fill in bare spots, they aren’t considered invasive because they don’t become a problem in wild areas.
Native to Asia, Mazus reptans is a tiny perennial that can make a big impact in the landscape. It’s the perfect, quick-growing groundcover for small areas. Plant it at the rate of six plants per square yard for the fastest coverage. You can also grow it in shaped patches with the aid of barriers to stop the spread. Mazus grows well in rock gardens and in the gaps between the rocks in a rock wall. It tolerates light foot traffic so you can plant it in between stepping stones too.
Mazus Reptans Care
Creeping mazus plants need a location in full sun or partial shade. It tolerates moderate to high moisture levels, but the roots shouldn’t stand in water. It can live in soil with low fertility, but the ideal location has fertile, loamy soil. It is suitable for U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 5 through 7 or 8. To grow mazus where you now have a lawn, first remove the grass. Mazus will not outcompete lawn grass, so you need to make sure you take up all the grass and get as much of the roots as possible. You can do this with a flat shovel that has a fairly sharp edge.
Mazus may not require annual fertilization. This is especially true if the soil is rich. Spring is the best time to fertilize the plants if necessary, however. Apply 1 to 1.5 pounds of 12-12-12 fertilizer per 100 square feet. Rinse the leaves thoroughly after applying fertilizer to prevent leaf burn. Growing Mazus reptans is made easy by the fact that it seldom suffers from disease or insect infestation.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月30日
What is Japanese butterbur? Also known as Japanese sweet coltsfoot, Japanese butterbur plant (Petasites japonicus) is a gigantic perennial plant that grows in soggy soil, primarily around streams and ponds. The plant is native to China, Korea and Japan, where it thrives in woodland areas or beside moist streambanks. Still wondering exactly what is Japanese butterbur? Keep reading to find out more.
Japanese Butterbur Information
Japanese butterbur is a dramatic plant with sturdy, pencil-size rhizomes, yard-long stalks and round leaves that can measure as much as 48 inches across, depending on the variety. The stalks are edible and often known as “Fuki.” Spikes of small, sweet-smelling white flowers decorate the plant in late winter, just before the leaves make an appearance in early spring.
Growing Japanese Butterbur
Growing Japanese butterbur is a decision that shouldn’t be taken lightly, as the plant spreads vigorously and, once established, is extremely difficult to eradicate. If you decide to give it a try, plant Japanese butterbur where it can spread freely without bothering you or your neighbors, or be sure it’s in an area where you can maintain control by implementing some type of root barrier. You can also control Japanese butterbur by planting it in a large container or tub (without drainage holes), then sink the container into the mud, a solution that works well around small ponds or boggy areas of your garden. Japanese butterbur prefers partial or full shade. The plant tolerates nearly any type of soil, as long as the ground is consistently wet. Be careful about locating Japanese butterbur in windy areas, as wind may damage the huge leaves.
Caring for Japanese Butterbur
Caring for Japanese butterbur plants can be summed up in a sentence or two. Basically, just divide the plant in early spring, if needed. Be sure to keep the soil wet at all times. That’s it! Now just sit back and enjoy this unusual, exotic plant.
Japanese Butterbur Information
Japanese butterbur is a dramatic plant with sturdy, pencil-size rhizomes, yard-long stalks and round leaves that can measure as much as 48 inches across, depending on the variety. The stalks are edible and often known as “Fuki.” Spikes of small, sweet-smelling white flowers decorate the plant in late winter, just before the leaves make an appearance in early spring.
Growing Japanese Butterbur
Growing Japanese butterbur is a decision that shouldn’t be taken lightly, as the plant spreads vigorously and, once established, is extremely difficult to eradicate. If you decide to give it a try, plant Japanese butterbur where it can spread freely without bothering you or your neighbors, or be sure it’s in an area where you can maintain control by implementing some type of root barrier. You can also control Japanese butterbur by planting it in a large container or tub (without drainage holes), then sink the container into the mud, a solution that works well around small ponds or boggy areas of your garden. Japanese butterbur prefers partial or full shade. The plant tolerates nearly any type of soil, as long as the ground is consistently wet. Be careful about locating Japanese butterbur in windy areas, as wind may damage the huge leaves.
Caring for Japanese Butterbur
Caring for Japanese butterbur plants can be summed up in a sentence or two. Basically, just divide the plant in early spring, if needed. Be sure to keep the soil wet at all times. That’s it! Now just sit back and enjoy this unusual, exotic plant.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月30日
Gotu kola is often known as Asiatic pennywort or spadeleaf – an appropriate nickname for plants with attractive leaves that look like they were stolen from a deck of cards. Looking for more gotu kola plant information? Want to learn how to grow gotu kola in your own garden? Keep on reading!
What is Gotu Kola?
Gotu kola (Centella asiatica) is a low-growing perennial plant native to the warm, tropical climates of Indonesia, China, Japan, South Africa and the South Pacific. It has been used for many centuries as a treatment for respiratory ailments and a variety of other condition, including fatigue, arthritis, memory, stomach problems, asthma and fever.
In the garden, gotu kola grows nearly anywhere as long as conditions are never dry, and works well near water or as a groundcover in dark, shady areas. If you live in USDA plant hardiness zones 9b or above, you should have no trouble growing gotu kola in your own garden. Keep in mind that gotu kola plants can be aggressive, especially in warm, moist climates. If this is a concern, you can grow gotu kola plants in containers.
How to Grow Gotu Kola by Seed
Plant gotu kola seeds in a container filled with moist, lightweight potting soil. Be sure the container has a drainage hole in the bottom. Water thoroughly after planting. Thereafter, water as needed to keep the soil evenly and consistently moist. Transplant the tiny plants into individual containers when they have at least one set of true leaves – the leaves that appear after the tiny seedling leaves. Allow gotu kola plants to mature for several months, then plant them in the garden when you’re sure all danger of frost has passed.
Planting Gotu Kola Starter Plants
If you’re fortunate enough to find gotu kola bedding plants, probably in a nursery specializing in herbs, just place the plants – in their nursery pots – in the garden for a few days. Once the plants have hardened off, plant them in their permanent location.
Gotu Kola Care
Ensure the soil never dries out. Otherwise, no gotu kola care is necessary; just stand back and watch them grow.
What is Gotu Kola?
Gotu kola (Centella asiatica) is a low-growing perennial plant native to the warm, tropical climates of Indonesia, China, Japan, South Africa and the South Pacific. It has been used for many centuries as a treatment for respiratory ailments and a variety of other condition, including fatigue, arthritis, memory, stomach problems, asthma and fever.
In the garden, gotu kola grows nearly anywhere as long as conditions are never dry, and works well near water or as a groundcover in dark, shady areas. If you live in USDA plant hardiness zones 9b or above, you should have no trouble growing gotu kola in your own garden. Keep in mind that gotu kola plants can be aggressive, especially in warm, moist climates. If this is a concern, you can grow gotu kola plants in containers.
How to Grow Gotu Kola by Seed
Plant gotu kola seeds in a container filled with moist, lightweight potting soil. Be sure the container has a drainage hole in the bottom. Water thoroughly after planting. Thereafter, water as needed to keep the soil evenly and consistently moist. Transplant the tiny plants into individual containers when they have at least one set of true leaves – the leaves that appear after the tiny seedling leaves. Allow gotu kola plants to mature for several months, then plant them in the garden when you’re sure all danger of frost has passed.
Planting Gotu Kola Starter Plants
If you’re fortunate enough to find gotu kola bedding plants, probably in a nursery specializing in herbs, just place the plants – in their nursery pots – in the garden for a few days. Once the plants have hardened off, plant them in their permanent location.
Gotu Kola Care
Ensure the soil never dries out. Otherwise, no gotu kola care is necessary; just stand back and watch them grow.
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求助
soniadcm
2017年08月30日
What is the name of this plant?
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Cristel：ETs finger Jade
Ueca：... or finger jade.
Ueca：Trumpet jade, but also goes by Gollum jade, Crassula ovata convoluta "Gollum", or
