文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月31日
The Katura tree is a wonderful ornamental plant for cold to temperate regions. Although this is a low maintenance plant, a little information on how to take care of a Katsura tree will help you keep it healthy and strong as an attractive presence in your landscape.
About Japanese Katsura Trees
The grown up name for Katsura tree, Cercidiphyllum, refers to a genus of trees from Asia, in particular Japan and China. The trees are suited for moist soil in full sun and get no larger than 45 feet tall. In fact, the majority of the trees are almost better classified as big bushes rather than trees.
While there are other varieties, Katsura tree (Cercidiphyllum japonica) is one of the most popular landscape trees. This type hails from Japan and is an economically important deciduous forest tree. The leaves are multi-hued with heavy veins and tones of pink and green. In fall the heart-shaped leaves take on autumnal tones of gold, orange and red before they fall from the tree. Katsura flowers are tiny, white and insignificant, but the foliage has a strong brown sugar smell in fall, which adds to the tree’s appeal. An interesting fact about Katsura trees is that the botanical name translates to ‘red leaf.’
Growing Katsura Trees
Katsura trees will thrive in USDA plant hardiness zones 4b to 8. They need plenty of water at establishment, but once they are mature can handle short periods of drought. Plant the tree in well drained soil that is acid or neutral. The plant is sensitive to frost and does drop its leaves once cold temperatures arrive. Choose either full sun or light shade for growing Katsura trees. The trees are weak limbed, so a sheltered spot is preferable with protection from wind gusts. Pruning is not a necessary part of Katsura tree care, but you can remove any damaged or crossed limbs that prevent the tree from producing a strong scaffold.
How to Take Care of a Katsura
Katsura trees are slow growing and may take up to 50 years to reach their full size. During this time, if the tree was planted in an appropriate soil and site, it will need very little care. Katsuras are not susceptible to many pests and they are basically disease free. Avoid overhead watering to prevent mildew on the ornamental leaves. Spread mulch around the base of the tree out to the root line to minimize competitive weeds and enhance water conservation.
Lightly prune out suckers and dead wood in spring and apply a 10-10-10 balanced granular fertilizer to the root zone of the plant. Water the fertilizer in well. Young Katsura tree care requires tree wraps and slings to protect the thin bark and establish a firm, strong shape. Water the tree daily for the first year to increase health and growth.
About Japanese Katsura Trees
The grown up name for Katsura tree, Cercidiphyllum, refers to a genus of trees from Asia, in particular Japan and China. The trees are suited for moist soil in full sun and get no larger than 45 feet tall. In fact, the majority of the trees are almost better classified as big bushes rather than trees.
While there are other varieties, Katsura tree (Cercidiphyllum japonica) is one of the most popular landscape trees. This type hails from Japan and is an economically important deciduous forest tree. The leaves are multi-hued with heavy veins and tones of pink and green. In fall the heart-shaped leaves take on autumnal tones of gold, orange and red before they fall from the tree. Katsura flowers are tiny, white and insignificant, but the foliage has a strong brown sugar smell in fall, which adds to the tree’s appeal. An interesting fact about Katsura trees is that the botanical name translates to ‘red leaf.’
Growing Katsura Trees
Katsura trees will thrive in USDA plant hardiness zones 4b to 8. They need plenty of water at establishment, but once they are mature can handle short periods of drought. Plant the tree in well drained soil that is acid or neutral. The plant is sensitive to frost and does drop its leaves once cold temperatures arrive. Choose either full sun or light shade for growing Katsura trees. The trees are weak limbed, so a sheltered spot is preferable with protection from wind gusts. Pruning is not a necessary part of Katsura tree care, but you can remove any damaged or crossed limbs that prevent the tree from producing a strong scaffold.
How to Take Care of a Katsura
Katsura trees are slow growing and may take up to 50 years to reach their full size. During this time, if the tree was planted in an appropriate soil and site, it will need very little care. Katsuras are not susceptible to many pests and they are basically disease free. Avoid overhead watering to prevent mildew on the ornamental leaves. Spread mulch around the base of the tree out to the root line to minimize competitive weeds and enhance water conservation.
Lightly prune out suckers and dead wood in spring and apply a 10-10-10 balanced granular fertilizer to the root zone of the plant. Water the fertilizer in well. Young Katsura tree care requires tree wraps and slings to protect the thin bark and establish a firm, strong shape. Water the tree daily for the first year to increase health and growth.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月31日
Jatropha (Jatropha curcas) was once touted as the new wunderkind plant for biofuel. What is a Jatropha curcas tree? The tree or bush grows in any type of soil at a rapid rate, is toxic and produces fuel fit for diesel engines. Read on for more Jatropha tree info and see how you rate this plant.
What is a Jatropha Curcas Tree?
Jatropha is a perennial shrub or tree. It is drought resistant and easy to grow in tropical to semi-tropical locations. The plant lives for up to 50 years and may grow nearly 20 feet tall. It has a deep thick taproot which makes it adaptable to poor dry soil. The leaves are oval and lobed and deciduous. Overall, the plant is not particularly visually appealing but it does get attractive green cymes of flowerets which turn into a tri-compartment fruit with large black seeds. These large black seeds are the reason for all the hullaballoo, because they are high in burnable oil. An interesting piece of Jatropha tree info is that it is listed as a weed in Brazil, Fiji, Honduras, India, Jamaica, Panama, Puerto Rico and Salvador. This proves how adaptable and hardy the plant is even when introduced to a new region.
Jatropha curcas cultivation can produce oil that is a good substitute for current biofuel. Its usefulness has been challenged but it is true the plant can produce seeds with an oil content of 37%. Unfortunately, it is still a part of the food vs. fuel debate, as it requires land that could go into food production. Scientists are trying to develop a “super Jatropha” with bigger seeds and, therefore, bigger oil yields.
Jatropha Curcas Cultivation
Jatropha uses are rather limited. Most parts of the plant are toxic to eat due to the latex sap, but is used as a medicinal. It is useful in treating snakebite, paralysis, dropsy and apparently some cancers. The plant may have originated in Central to South America but has been introduced around the world and flourishes wild in places like India, Africa and Asia. Chief among Jatropha uses is its potential as a clean burning fuel to replace fossil fuels. Plantation cultivation in certain areas has been attempted, but overall Jatropha curcas cultivation has been a dismal failure. This is because the production mass of oil cannot equal the land use by cropping Jatropha.
Jatropha Plant Care and Growth
The plant is easy to grow from cuttings or seed. Cuttings result in faster maturity and quicker seed production. It prefers warm climates but can survive a light frost. The deep taproot makes it drought tolerant, although best growth will be achieved with supplemental water occasionally. It doesn’t have any major disease or pest issues in its natural regions. It may be pruned, but flowers and fruit form on terminal growth, so it is best to wait until after flowering. No other Jatropha plant care is necessary.
This plant is useful as a hedge or living fence, or just as an ornamental stand alone specimen.
What is a Jatropha Curcas Tree?
Jatropha is a perennial shrub or tree. It is drought resistant and easy to grow in tropical to semi-tropical locations. The plant lives for up to 50 years and may grow nearly 20 feet tall. It has a deep thick taproot which makes it adaptable to poor dry soil. The leaves are oval and lobed and deciduous. Overall, the plant is not particularly visually appealing but it does get attractive green cymes of flowerets which turn into a tri-compartment fruit with large black seeds. These large black seeds are the reason for all the hullaballoo, because they are high in burnable oil. An interesting piece of Jatropha tree info is that it is listed as a weed in Brazil, Fiji, Honduras, India, Jamaica, Panama, Puerto Rico and Salvador. This proves how adaptable and hardy the plant is even when introduced to a new region.
Jatropha curcas cultivation can produce oil that is a good substitute for current biofuel. Its usefulness has been challenged but it is true the plant can produce seeds with an oil content of 37%. Unfortunately, it is still a part of the food vs. fuel debate, as it requires land that could go into food production. Scientists are trying to develop a “super Jatropha” with bigger seeds and, therefore, bigger oil yields.
Jatropha Curcas Cultivation
Jatropha uses are rather limited. Most parts of the plant are toxic to eat due to the latex sap, but is used as a medicinal. It is useful in treating snakebite, paralysis, dropsy and apparently some cancers. The plant may have originated in Central to South America but has been introduced around the world and flourishes wild in places like India, Africa and Asia. Chief among Jatropha uses is its potential as a clean burning fuel to replace fossil fuels. Plantation cultivation in certain areas has been attempted, but overall Jatropha curcas cultivation has been a dismal failure. This is because the production mass of oil cannot equal the land use by cropping Jatropha.
Jatropha Plant Care and Growth
The plant is easy to grow from cuttings or seed. Cuttings result in faster maturity and quicker seed production. It prefers warm climates but can survive a light frost. The deep taproot makes it drought tolerant, although best growth will be achieved with supplemental water occasionally. It doesn’t have any major disease or pest issues in its natural regions. It may be pruned, but flowers and fruit form on terminal growth, so it is best to wait until after flowering. No other Jatropha plant care is necessary.
This plant is useful as a hedge or living fence, or just as an ornamental stand alone specimen.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月31日
Native to Australia, foxtail palm (Wodyetia bifurcata) is an attractive palm tree with a rounded, symmetrical shape and a smooth, grey trunk and tufted fronds that resemble foxtails. This Australian native is suitable for growing in USDA plant hardiness zones 10 and 11. Common means of propagation such as cuttings, division or air layering aren’t usually effective, so if you want to propagate a foxtail palm, seeds are your best option. That project often involves picking foxtail palm seeds and planting them when they’re fresh. Harvesting foxtail palm seeds is easy. Read on to find out how.
How to Collect Foxtail Palm Seeds
Bright red foxtail palm fruit, about the size of small tomatoes, grow in large clusters, with a single seed in each mature fruit. Picking foxtail palm seeds is best when the seeds are unblemished and overripe, as very ripe seeds are more likely to germinate. Soak the seeds in warm water for 48 to 72 hours to loosen the pulp. Change the water daily. Discard any seeds that float to the top and keep the ones that sink to the bottom. Floating seeds lack an endosperm and will not germinate. Rinse the seeds to remove any remaining pulp, then dip them in a solution of one part bleach to ten parts water. Rinse thoroughly.
At this point, it’s necessary to scarify, or rough up the seeds, which mimics the natural course of events when seeds drop from high in the tree. To scarify the seeds, rub them gently with sandpaper or a file, or nick the outer coating with the tip of a knife. Don’t apply too much pressure. Plant the seeds in your garden immediately, as foxtail palm seeds don’t store well. The fresher, the better. Alternatively, you can propagate a foxtail palm indoors.
How to Propagate a Foxtail Palm Indoors
Plant fresh foxtail palm seeds in a container filled with a moist, sandy, well-drained potting mix. The pot should be at least 6 inches (15 cm.) deep, although 10 to 12 inches (25-30 cm.) is even better. You can plant several seeds in a pot, not touching, or you can plant a single seed in a pot. Plant the seed horizontally. Some gardeners plant the seed with the top of the seeds exposed, others prefer to cover the seeds with about ¼ inch (.6 cm.) of potting mix. Place the pot in a plastic bag. Unless you have a greenhouse or you live in a very warm climate, you’ll need to place the pot on a heat mat set to 86 to 95 F. (30-35 C.). Germination generally takes one to three months, but may take as long as a year. The heat mat will speed the process substantially.
Keep the potting mix lightly moist at all times, but never soggy, as too much moisture will rot the seed. The seeds may look a little shriveled and worse for wear by the time germination occurs, and they may even look dead. Don’t give up. This is normal. Once the seed sprouts, move the pot to a warm, humid area in your house and mist the seedling often. A bathroom or kitchen is often a good location. Transplant the seedling outdoors in spring or summer when it has at least three to four sets of leaves.
How to Collect Foxtail Palm Seeds
Bright red foxtail palm fruit, about the size of small tomatoes, grow in large clusters, with a single seed in each mature fruit. Picking foxtail palm seeds is best when the seeds are unblemished and overripe, as very ripe seeds are more likely to germinate. Soak the seeds in warm water for 48 to 72 hours to loosen the pulp. Change the water daily. Discard any seeds that float to the top and keep the ones that sink to the bottom. Floating seeds lack an endosperm and will not germinate. Rinse the seeds to remove any remaining pulp, then dip them in a solution of one part bleach to ten parts water. Rinse thoroughly.
At this point, it’s necessary to scarify, or rough up the seeds, which mimics the natural course of events when seeds drop from high in the tree. To scarify the seeds, rub them gently with sandpaper or a file, or nick the outer coating with the tip of a knife. Don’t apply too much pressure. Plant the seeds in your garden immediately, as foxtail palm seeds don’t store well. The fresher, the better. Alternatively, you can propagate a foxtail palm indoors.
How to Propagate a Foxtail Palm Indoors
Plant fresh foxtail palm seeds in a container filled with a moist, sandy, well-drained potting mix. The pot should be at least 6 inches (15 cm.) deep, although 10 to 12 inches (25-30 cm.) is even better. You can plant several seeds in a pot, not touching, or you can plant a single seed in a pot. Plant the seed horizontally. Some gardeners plant the seed with the top of the seeds exposed, others prefer to cover the seeds with about ¼ inch (.6 cm.) of potting mix. Place the pot in a plastic bag. Unless you have a greenhouse or you live in a very warm climate, you’ll need to place the pot on a heat mat set to 86 to 95 F. (30-35 C.). Germination generally takes one to three months, but may take as long as a year. The heat mat will speed the process substantially.
Keep the potting mix lightly moist at all times, but never soggy, as too much moisture will rot the seed. The seeds may look a little shriveled and worse for wear by the time germination occurs, and they may even look dead. Don’t give up. This is normal. Once the seed sprouts, move the pot to a warm, humid area in your house and mist the seedling often. A bathroom or kitchen is often a good location. Transplant the seedling outdoors in spring or summer when it has at least three to four sets of leaves.
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0
文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月31日
The American elm populations has been decimated by Dutch Elm disease, so gardeners in this country often choose to plant Japanese elm trees instead. This lovely group of trees is hardier and equally attractive, with smooth gray bark and an appealing canopy. Read on for Japanese elm tree facts, including information about how to grow a Japanese elm tree.
Japanese Elm Tree Facts
Japanese elm tree includes not one, but six genera with 35 species of elm native to Japan. All are deciduous trees or shrubs that are native to Japan and northeastern Asia.
Japanese elms are resistant to Dutch Elm disease, a disease fatal to the American elm. One type of Japanese elm, Ulmus davidiana var. japonica, is so highly resistant that is has been used to develop resistant cultivars. Japanese elm trees can mature to 55 feet tall with a 35-foot canopy spread. The bark is grayish brown and the crown of the tree rounded and spreads out in an umbrella shape. The fruits of Japanaese elm trees depend on the genera and variety of the tree. Some are samaras and some are nuts.
How to Grow a Japanese Elm Tree
If you want to start growing Japanese elm trees, you’ll have the easiest time if you plant the trees in an appropriate location. Japanese elm tree care requires a sunny planting site with well-draining, loamy soil. If you’re already growing Japanese elm trees in hard clay soil, you aren’t obliged to move them. The trees will survive, but they will grow much more slowly than in rich soil that drains well. The optimal soil will have a pH between 5.5 and 8.
Japanese Elm Tree Care
Also, when growing Japanese elm trees, you need to understand Japanese elm tree care requirements. When and how to water is perhaps the most important part of caring for these trees. Like other elms, Japanese elm trees need to be watered during extended dry periods. Provide water at the outside edge of their canopies, not close to the trunks. The root hairs of these trees that absorb water and nutrients are found on the root tips. Ideally, irrigate with a drip hose during periods of drought.
Japanese elm tree care also involves weeding around the trees. Weeds under an elm tree canopy compete for available water. Remove them regularly to keep your tree healthy.
Japanese Elm Tree Facts
Japanese elm tree includes not one, but six genera with 35 species of elm native to Japan. All are deciduous trees or shrubs that are native to Japan and northeastern Asia.
Japanese elms are resistant to Dutch Elm disease, a disease fatal to the American elm. One type of Japanese elm, Ulmus davidiana var. japonica, is so highly resistant that is has been used to develop resistant cultivars. Japanese elm trees can mature to 55 feet tall with a 35-foot canopy spread. The bark is grayish brown and the crown of the tree rounded and spreads out in an umbrella shape. The fruits of Japanaese elm trees depend on the genera and variety of the tree. Some are samaras and some are nuts.
How to Grow a Japanese Elm Tree
If you want to start growing Japanese elm trees, you’ll have the easiest time if you plant the trees in an appropriate location. Japanese elm tree care requires a sunny planting site with well-draining, loamy soil. If you’re already growing Japanese elm trees in hard clay soil, you aren’t obliged to move them. The trees will survive, but they will grow much more slowly than in rich soil that drains well. The optimal soil will have a pH between 5.5 and 8.
Japanese Elm Tree Care
Also, when growing Japanese elm trees, you need to understand Japanese elm tree care requirements. When and how to water is perhaps the most important part of caring for these trees. Like other elms, Japanese elm trees need to be watered during extended dry periods. Provide water at the outside edge of their canopies, not close to the trunks. The root hairs of these trees that absorb water and nutrients are found on the root tips. Ideally, irrigate with a drip hose during periods of drought.
Japanese elm tree care also involves weeding around the trees. Weeds under an elm tree canopy compete for available water. Remove them regularly to keep your tree healthy.
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Missysunflo
2017年08月30日
Trying something new trying to propagate a snake plant and a Christmas cactus😊
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月30日
The gray dogwood isn’t a tidy or attractive plant that you would want to plant in a well-groomed garden, but if you are planting a wildlife area or want a shrub for difficult conditions, it may be just what you need. Read on for information about this humble shrub.
Gray Dogwood Information
Gray dogwood (Cornus racemosa) is rangy and even a little scraggly, with suckers springing up all around it. The fall leaves are dark reddish purple, and while the color is interesting, you wouldn’t call it attractive. The white winter berries only last a short time and don’t add much to the appearance of the shrub. Although you may not want to plant it in a formal garden, it is right at home in a wildlife area or a location with poor, wet soil. As wildlife plants, gray dogwood thickets provide shelter, hiding places and nesting sites for birds and small mammals. Several species of birds eat the berries, including Eastern bluebirds, Northern cardinals, Northern flickers and downy woodpeckers. The flowers attract butterflies, and some species use them as larval host plants.
Growing Gray Dogwoods
Although you can grow it as a tree, a gray dogwood tree soon becomes a multi-stemmed shrub without constant attention in removing the suckers. Growing gray dogwood shrubs in a row provides a screen against unsightly views, strong winds, and harsh sunlight. Gray dogwood care is a snap too. The shrubs thrive in full sun or partial shade and almost any soil. They aren’t bothered by air pollution. These shrubs tolerate dry soil, so they seldom need watering, and never need fertilizer. The biggest task in caring for gray dogwood is keeping the suckers at bay. Pull them up whenever possible. If you have to cut them, cut at the source below the surface of the soil. Partially removed suckers soon return.
Is Gray Dogwood Invasive?
Any plant growing in its native range has natural controls to keep it in check, so native plants aren’t invasive. Gray dogwood is a native plant that is not considered invasive in any part of the U.S. In fact, it is recommended as an alternative to invasive shrubs such as non-native honeysuckle.
Gray dogwood can, however, become aggressive in the landscape. It produces multiple suckers that become new stems. Over time, the shrub forms a thicket unless it’s thinned from time to time.
Gray Dogwood Information
Gray dogwood (Cornus racemosa) is rangy and even a little scraggly, with suckers springing up all around it. The fall leaves are dark reddish purple, and while the color is interesting, you wouldn’t call it attractive. The white winter berries only last a short time and don’t add much to the appearance of the shrub. Although you may not want to plant it in a formal garden, it is right at home in a wildlife area or a location with poor, wet soil. As wildlife plants, gray dogwood thickets provide shelter, hiding places and nesting sites for birds and small mammals. Several species of birds eat the berries, including Eastern bluebirds, Northern cardinals, Northern flickers and downy woodpeckers. The flowers attract butterflies, and some species use them as larval host plants.
Growing Gray Dogwoods
Although you can grow it as a tree, a gray dogwood tree soon becomes a multi-stemmed shrub without constant attention in removing the suckers. Growing gray dogwood shrubs in a row provides a screen against unsightly views, strong winds, and harsh sunlight. Gray dogwood care is a snap too. The shrubs thrive in full sun or partial shade and almost any soil. They aren’t bothered by air pollution. These shrubs tolerate dry soil, so they seldom need watering, and never need fertilizer. The biggest task in caring for gray dogwood is keeping the suckers at bay. Pull them up whenever possible. If you have to cut them, cut at the source below the surface of the soil. Partially removed suckers soon return.
Is Gray Dogwood Invasive?
Any plant growing in its native range has natural controls to keep it in check, so native plants aren’t invasive. Gray dogwood is a native plant that is not considered invasive in any part of the U.S. In fact, it is recommended as an alternative to invasive shrubs such as non-native honeysuckle.
Gray dogwood can, however, become aggressive in the landscape. It produces multiple suckers that become new stems. Over time, the shrub forms a thicket unless it’s thinned from time to time.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月30日
Growing crabapple trees in the landscape is commonplace for many homeowners, but if you haven’t yet tried it, you may be asking, “How do you grow crabapple trees?” Continue reading to find out how to plant a crabapple tree as well as how to care for a crabapple tree in the landscape.
Flowering Crabapple Trees
Often called “the jewels of the landscape” flowering crabapple trees create four seasons of outstanding visual impact. In spring, the tree leafs out while the flower buds swell until they burst open to reveal fragrant blossoms in shades that range from white or pale pink to red.
As the flowers fade, they are replaced by small fruit that are relished by birds and squirrels. Most crabapple trees have vibrant fall colors, and once the leaves fall, the fruit stands out against the bare or snow-covered branches. The fruit often lasts well into the winter months. The difference between an apple and a crabapple is the size of the fruit. Fruit less than 2 inches in diameter are considered crabapples, while larger fruit are called apples.
How to Plant a Crabapple Tree
Choose a location in full sun with well-drained soil. Trees that are shaded develop an open canopy instead of a more attractive, dense growth habit. Shaded trees produce fewer flowers and fruit, and they are more susceptible to disease. Dig the hole for the tree as deep as the root ball and two to three times as wide. When you set the tree in the hole, the soil line on the tree should be even with the surrounding soil. Fill the hole half full with soil and water well to remove the air pockets. When the soil settles and the water drains through, finish filling the hole and water thoroughly.
How to Care for a Crabapple Tree
Growing crabapple trees in the home landscape is much easier if you choose disease- and insect-resistant varieties. This allows you to focus your attention on care essentials like fertilizing, watering and pruning. Newly Planted Trees – Newly planted crabapple trees don’t need fertilization until the following spring, but they do need regular watering during their first year. Keep the soil over the tree’s root zone evenly moist. A 2- to 4-inch layer of mulch over the roots prevents the soil from drying out too quickly. Established Flowering Crabapple Trees – Crabapple trees are drought-resistant once established, but they grow best if you water them when there is less than an inch of rain in a week during summer. A 2-inch layer of mulch applied every spring provides sufficient nutrients for a crabapple tree. If you prefer, you can apply a light feeding of slow-release fertilizer instead.
Crabapple trees need very little pruning. Remove dead, diseased and damaged twigs and branches in spring and remove suckers as they appear. Pruning crabapple trees after the end of June significantly reduces the number of flowers and fruit in the following year.
Flowering Crabapple Trees
Often called “the jewels of the landscape” flowering crabapple trees create four seasons of outstanding visual impact. In spring, the tree leafs out while the flower buds swell until they burst open to reveal fragrant blossoms in shades that range from white or pale pink to red.
As the flowers fade, they are replaced by small fruit that are relished by birds and squirrels. Most crabapple trees have vibrant fall colors, and once the leaves fall, the fruit stands out against the bare or snow-covered branches. The fruit often lasts well into the winter months. The difference between an apple and a crabapple is the size of the fruit. Fruit less than 2 inches in diameter are considered crabapples, while larger fruit are called apples.
How to Plant a Crabapple Tree
Choose a location in full sun with well-drained soil. Trees that are shaded develop an open canopy instead of a more attractive, dense growth habit. Shaded trees produce fewer flowers and fruit, and they are more susceptible to disease. Dig the hole for the tree as deep as the root ball and two to three times as wide. When you set the tree in the hole, the soil line on the tree should be even with the surrounding soil. Fill the hole half full with soil and water well to remove the air pockets. When the soil settles and the water drains through, finish filling the hole and water thoroughly.
How to Care for a Crabapple Tree
Growing crabapple trees in the home landscape is much easier if you choose disease- and insect-resistant varieties. This allows you to focus your attention on care essentials like fertilizing, watering and pruning. Newly Planted Trees – Newly planted crabapple trees don’t need fertilization until the following spring, but they do need regular watering during their first year. Keep the soil over the tree’s root zone evenly moist. A 2- to 4-inch layer of mulch over the roots prevents the soil from drying out too quickly. Established Flowering Crabapple Trees – Crabapple trees are drought-resistant once established, but they grow best if you water them when there is less than an inch of rain in a week during summer. A 2-inch layer of mulch applied every spring provides sufficient nutrients for a crabapple tree. If you prefer, you can apply a light feeding of slow-release fertilizer instead.
Crabapple trees need very little pruning. Remove dead, diseased and damaged twigs and branches in spring and remove suckers as they appear. Pruning crabapple trees after the end of June significantly reduces the number of flowers and fruit in the following year.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月30日
Exotic plants like the coral tree lend unique interest to the warm region landscape. What is a coral tree? The coral tree is an amazing tropical plant that is a member of the legume family, Fabaceae. It may be spiny or smooth, deciduous or evergreen, with a spectacle of a flower in brilliant pink, red or orange hues. Growing coral trees is only appropriate outdoors in USDA zones 9 and up. Coral tree care is easy if you are in the correct region, but some growers may find them messy. Find out how to grow coral trees and add some of their intense beauty to your garden.
What is a Coral Tree?
Coral trees are members of the genus Erythrina and are primarily found in South Africa and South America. There are approximately 112 different species of Erythrina around the world. They are also found in Mexico, Central America, the West Indies, Asia, Australia and even Hawaii. The wide area covered by the plants seems to indicate coastal dispersal of seeds. Some interesting coral tree information regards their extremely buoyant seeds, which have the ability to float for up to one year and are so hard they pass unharmed through animal and bird digestive tracts. These tough seeds wind up tossed from surf on fertile tropical soils where they take off and eventually adapt and evolve to take advantage of their environment.
Coral Tree Information
The average height of a coral tree is 35 to 45 feet tall, but some varieties exceed 60 feet in height. The leaves have three distinct leaflets and the stems may have thorns or may be smooth, depending upon their evolutionary adaptations. The trees have a thick trunk, usually with several smaller trunks joining the main stem. Roots push out of the ground as they age and may become a hazard. The bark is a thin grayish brown and the wood is pithy and weak, prone to breaking in the wind or due to overwatering. The flowers are the standout, appearing in late winter. They are outlandish constructions of thick bright pedals standing erect around the corolla. Hummingbirds are extremely attracted to the loud colors and striking scent.
Coral Tree Care
Coral trees need very little water. Too much water actually promotes a weak limb structure and subsequent breakage. Overwatering causes the tree to grow too quickly, and its soft wood cannot support such spurts. Then in the dry season, the weight of the tree can actually pull it out of the soil. Pruning the tree in spring to remove the heavier stems or any damaged material will help prevent limb loss and trees from tipping.
Fertilizer is also not recommended when growing coral trees. Fertilizer also causes them to have aggressive growth that can cause problems later. Cover over the root zone with a good organic mulch, which will gradually leach a light dose of nutrients into soil over time.
What is a Coral Tree?
Coral trees are members of the genus Erythrina and are primarily found in South Africa and South America. There are approximately 112 different species of Erythrina around the world. They are also found in Mexico, Central America, the West Indies, Asia, Australia and even Hawaii. The wide area covered by the plants seems to indicate coastal dispersal of seeds. Some interesting coral tree information regards their extremely buoyant seeds, which have the ability to float for up to one year and are so hard they pass unharmed through animal and bird digestive tracts. These tough seeds wind up tossed from surf on fertile tropical soils where they take off and eventually adapt and evolve to take advantage of their environment.
Coral Tree Information
The average height of a coral tree is 35 to 45 feet tall, but some varieties exceed 60 feet in height. The leaves have three distinct leaflets and the stems may have thorns or may be smooth, depending upon their evolutionary adaptations. The trees have a thick trunk, usually with several smaller trunks joining the main stem. Roots push out of the ground as they age and may become a hazard. The bark is a thin grayish brown and the wood is pithy and weak, prone to breaking in the wind or due to overwatering. The flowers are the standout, appearing in late winter. They are outlandish constructions of thick bright pedals standing erect around the corolla. Hummingbirds are extremely attracted to the loud colors and striking scent.
Coral Tree Care
Coral trees need very little water. Too much water actually promotes a weak limb structure and subsequent breakage. Overwatering causes the tree to grow too quickly, and its soft wood cannot support such spurts. Then in the dry season, the weight of the tree can actually pull it out of the soil. Pruning the tree in spring to remove the heavier stems or any damaged material will help prevent limb loss and trees from tipping.
Fertilizer is also not recommended when growing coral trees. Fertilizer also causes them to have aggressive growth that can cause problems later. Cover over the root zone with a good organic mulch, which will gradually leach a light dose of nutrients into soil over time.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月30日
Chinese perfume tree (Aglaia odorata) is a small evergreen tree in the mahogany family. It is an ornamental plant in American gardens, typically growing to 10 feet or under and producing intensely fragrant sprays of unusual yellow flowers. If you want to start growing Chinese perfume trees, read on for information on these lovely plants and for tips on Chinese perfume tree care.
Chinese Perfume Tree Facts
Chinese perfume trees, also called Aglaia odorata plants, are native to low regions of China. They also grow in Taiwan, Indonesia, Cambodia, Laos, Thailand and Vietnam. The plant’s genus name comes from Greek mythology. Aglaia was the name of one of the three Graces.
In the wild, Aglaia ordorata plants can grow to 20 feet high. They grow in thickets or sparse forests. In the United States, they grow only in cultivation and are often planted for their fragrant blossoms.
You’ll find some interesting Chinese perfume tree facts when you read about those blossoms. The tiny yellow flowers—each about the size and shape of a grain of rice—grow in panicles about 2 to 4 inches long. They are shaped like tiny balls but do not open when the flowers bloom. The scent exuded by Chinese perfume tree flowers is sweet and lemony. It is stronger during the day than at night.
Growing Chinese Perfume Trees
If you are growing Chinese perfume trees, you need to know that an individual tree will bear either male or female flowers. Both types of flowers are fragrant, but only a pollinated female flower produces the fruit, a small berry with one seed inside. Chinese perfume tree care begins with planting the tree in an appropriate location. The trees are only hardy in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 10 through 11. In cooler regions, you can grow Aglaia odorata plants in containers and move them indoors when temperatures drop. The trees will need well-draining soil and a location with full or partial sun. Plant them in a location with some shade if your region is hot in the summer.
Container plants brought inside should be located next to sunny windows. They’ll need moderate but regular irrigation. The soil must dry out between watering times.
Chinese Perfume Tree Facts
Chinese perfume trees, also called Aglaia odorata plants, are native to low regions of China. They also grow in Taiwan, Indonesia, Cambodia, Laos, Thailand and Vietnam. The plant’s genus name comes from Greek mythology. Aglaia was the name of one of the three Graces.
In the wild, Aglaia ordorata plants can grow to 20 feet high. They grow in thickets or sparse forests. In the United States, they grow only in cultivation and are often planted for their fragrant blossoms.
You’ll find some interesting Chinese perfume tree facts when you read about those blossoms. The tiny yellow flowers—each about the size and shape of a grain of rice—grow in panicles about 2 to 4 inches long. They are shaped like tiny balls but do not open when the flowers bloom. The scent exuded by Chinese perfume tree flowers is sweet and lemony. It is stronger during the day than at night.
Growing Chinese Perfume Trees
If you are growing Chinese perfume trees, you need to know that an individual tree will bear either male or female flowers. Both types of flowers are fragrant, but only a pollinated female flower produces the fruit, a small berry with one seed inside. Chinese perfume tree care begins with planting the tree in an appropriate location. The trees are only hardy in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 10 through 11. In cooler regions, you can grow Aglaia odorata plants in containers and move them indoors when temperatures drop. The trees will need well-draining soil and a location with full or partial sun. Plant them in a location with some shade if your region is hot in the summer.
Container plants brought inside should be located next to sunny windows. They’ll need moderate but regular irrigation. The soil must dry out between watering times.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月30日
Cassia trees are also called candlebrush, and it’s easy to see why. In late summer, the golden yellow flowers that hang from the branches in long clusters resemble candles. This large, spreading shrub or small tree makes a great container accent plant that looks fantastic on patios and near entryways. You can also use it as a specimen or lawn tree. Pruning cassia trees helps strengthen the structure and keeps it looking neat.
When to Trim Cassia Trees
Prune cassia trees at planting time only if necessary to removed dead and diseased branches and those that cross and rub against each other. Rubbing causes wounds that can provide entry points for insects and disease organisms. Cassia trees are normally pruned in late winter or early spring. Early pruning gives the shrub plenty of time to form the buds that will bloom in late summer. Do the first structural pruning the first spring after planting. Early spring is also a good time to pinch out the tips of new growth to encourage more lateral shoots and flowers.
How to Prune Cassia Trees
Cassia tree pruning begins by removing dead and diseased branches. If you are removing just a portion of a branch, make the cut one-quarter inch above a bud or twig. New stems will grow in the direction of the bud or twig, so choose the site carefully. Cut out diseased and damaged branches several inches below the damage. If the wood in the cross section of the cut is dark or discolored, cut a little further down the stem. When pruning for structure, remove branches that shoot straight up and leave those that have a wide crotch between the branch and the trunk. Make a clean cut flush with the trunk when removing a branch. Never leave a long stub.
Removing the tips of new growth encourages more new branches and flowers. Take off the tips of the stems, cutting just above the last bud on the branch. Since the flowers form on new growth, you’ll get more flowers as the new shoots form.
When to Trim Cassia Trees
Prune cassia trees at planting time only if necessary to removed dead and diseased branches and those that cross and rub against each other. Rubbing causes wounds that can provide entry points for insects and disease organisms. Cassia trees are normally pruned in late winter or early spring. Early pruning gives the shrub plenty of time to form the buds that will bloom in late summer. Do the first structural pruning the first spring after planting. Early spring is also a good time to pinch out the tips of new growth to encourage more lateral shoots and flowers.
How to Prune Cassia Trees
Cassia tree pruning begins by removing dead and diseased branches. If you are removing just a portion of a branch, make the cut one-quarter inch above a bud or twig. New stems will grow in the direction of the bud or twig, so choose the site carefully. Cut out diseased and damaged branches several inches below the damage. If the wood in the cross section of the cut is dark or discolored, cut a little further down the stem. When pruning for structure, remove branches that shoot straight up and leave those that have a wide crotch between the branch and the trunk. Make a clean cut flush with the trunk when removing a branch. Never leave a long stub.
Removing the tips of new growth encourages more new branches and flowers. Take off the tips of the stems, cutting just above the last bud on the branch. Since the flowers form on new growth, you’ll get more flowers as the new shoots form.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月30日
Perfect for the summer container garden, brugmansia is a fast-growing, easy-care shrub. This beautiful, flowering plant is not only easy to grow but propagating brugmansia is easy too. There are three methods of brugmansia propagation — by seeds, cuttings, and air layering — so you’re sure to find the method that works best for you.
Growing Brugmansia from Seeds
Brugmansia seeds are enclosed in a cork-like covering. The seeds themselves resemble small beans. When growing brugmansia from seeds, you can choose to leave this covering in place or remove it. Keep in mind, however, that taking the seed covering off will allow for faster germination and sprouting. Plant brugmansia seeds about half an inch deep in a mixture of sand and peat. Water well. The seeds should germinate within two to four weeks. Once seedlings have obtained their second leaves, they can be gently lifted and repotted individually in well-draining potting soil. Place in an area with indirect light.
Rooting Brugmansia Cuttings
Rooting brugmansia cuttings is the easiest way to propagate plants. They can be rooted in soil or water using both hardwood and softwood cuttings. Select cuttings from older wood and make them at least 6 inches long. When rooting brugmansia in water, remove all the bottom leaves. Change the water daily and once roots appear, move cuttings to a soil environment. If rooting in soil, place cutting about two inches deep in well-draining potting soil. Use your finger or a stick to make this easier. Likewise, you can make a small “trench” with your finger and place the cutting inside, firming the soil around the bottom part of the brugmansia cutting. Water the cutting and place it in a semi-shaded location until well rooted, at which time you can provide additional light.
Brugmansia Propagation Using Air Layering
Air layering allows you to root brugmansia cuttings while remaining on the mother plant. Choose a branch and cut an angled notch in the bottom side. Apply rooting hormone and then place some moistened peat mix (or soil) around the wound. Lightly wrap clear plastic over this. Once significant rooting has taken place, cut the branch from the mother plant and remove the plastic. Plant this in a pot of well-draining soil and keep it watered. Move to a shady location until well established before adding more light.
Brugmansia propagation is an easy and effective way to add more of these lovely plants to your garden. And with three different methods to choose from, propagating brugmansia is sure to be a success.
Growing Brugmansia from Seeds
Brugmansia seeds are enclosed in a cork-like covering. The seeds themselves resemble small beans. When growing brugmansia from seeds, you can choose to leave this covering in place or remove it. Keep in mind, however, that taking the seed covering off will allow for faster germination and sprouting. Plant brugmansia seeds about half an inch deep in a mixture of sand and peat. Water well. The seeds should germinate within two to four weeks. Once seedlings have obtained their second leaves, they can be gently lifted and repotted individually in well-draining potting soil. Place in an area with indirect light.
Rooting Brugmansia Cuttings
Rooting brugmansia cuttings is the easiest way to propagate plants. They can be rooted in soil or water using both hardwood and softwood cuttings. Select cuttings from older wood and make them at least 6 inches long. When rooting brugmansia in water, remove all the bottom leaves. Change the water daily and once roots appear, move cuttings to a soil environment. If rooting in soil, place cutting about two inches deep in well-draining potting soil. Use your finger or a stick to make this easier. Likewise, you can make a small “trench” with your finger and place the cutting inside, firming the soil around the bottom part of the brugmansia cutting. Water the cutting and place it in a semi-shaded location until well rooted, at which time you can provide additional light.
Brugmansia Propagation Using Air Layering
Air layering allows you to root brugmansia cuttings while remaining on the mother plant. Choose a branch and cut an angled notch in the bottom side. Apply rooting hormone and then place some moistened peat mix (or soil) around the wound. Lightly wrap clear plastic over this. Once significant rooting has taken place, cut the branch from the mother plant and remove the plastic. Plant this in a pot of well-draining soil and keep it watered. Move to a shady location until well established before adding more light.
Brugmansia propagation is an easy and effective way to add more of these lovely plants to your garden. And with three different methods to choose from, propagating brugmansia is sure to be a success.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月30日
If there ever was a flower you just had to grow, brugmansia is it. The plant is in the toxic Datura family so keep it away from children and pets, but the massive blooms are nearly worth any risk. The plant produces a season long display of 6- to 8-inch trumpet-shaped blooms in hues of pink, yellow and white. Knowing how to fertilize brugmansias will enhance and extend the parade of these brilliantly colored flowers.
Feeding Angel’s Trumpet
Brugmansia is also known as angel’s trumpet because of the large drooping blooms. The plant can grow to a massive shrub in good lighting and, with good care, up to 8-10 feet tall. The blooms release an intoxicating scent in the night air, adding to their angelic mien. Brugmansia is a voracious feeder and thrives when fed frequently.
Plant food enhances most plant’s growth by providing extra macro-nutrients not found in soil – nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium – which are commonly found NPK ratios on fertilizer products. N – The first number on any fertilizer formula is the nitrogen, which directs strong plant growth and stem and leaf formation. P – The second number is phosphorus, which assists with bloom and fruit production. K – The third number, potassium, enhances roots and overall plant health. The type of fertilizer for brugmansia depends upon the time of development. During initial growth, use a balanced fertilizer such as a 20-20-20. By the time buds begin to form, alternate with one higher in phosphorus to promote bigger, lustier blooms.
When to Feed Brugmansia Plants
Every two weeks is when to feed brugmansia according to the American Brugmansia and Datura Society. Angel’s trumpet requires high amounts of additional nutrients to achieve maximum size and blooms. Use the all-purpose fertilizer once per week during its start-up period, then begin the higher phosphorus formula once per week about 3 to 4 weeks before bloom time. The best type of fertilizer for brugmansia is a water soluble one, which is readily available for the plant to uptake. Start at half dilutions when the plant is little and graduate to the full dose once the plant is mature. Water any fertilizer in well.
How to Fertilize Brugmansias
Young brugmansia can take 2 to3 years to flower from a hybrid cross. Most nurseries sell them ready to bloom, but if you are self-propagating, your young plant will need special care. Besides the macro-nutrients your young plant needs:
Magnesium
Iron
Zinc
Copper
You can find these in a good all-purpose plant food starters. These are easy to apply either as a foliar drench or watered into soil. When young plants are ready to repot, use a time-release fertilizer mixed into the soil for slow, gradual nutrient release. Feeding angel’s trumpet frequently will result in big spectacular bloom shows all summer long.
Feeding Angel’s Trumpet
Brugmansia is also known as angel’s trumpet because of the large drooping blooms. The plant can grow to a massive shrub in good lighting and, with good care, up to 8-10 feet tall. The blooms release an intoxicating scent in the night air, adding to their angelic mien. Brugmansia is a voracious feeder and thrives when fed frequently.
Plant food enhances most plant’s growth by providing extra macro-nutrients not found in soil – nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium – which are commonly found NPK ratios on fertilizer products. N – The first number on any fertilizer formula is the nitrogen, which directs strong plant growth and stem and leaf formation. P – The second number is phosphorus, which assists with bloom and fruit production. K – The third number, potassium, enhances roots and overall plant health. The type of fertilizer for brugmansia depends upon the time of development. During initial growth, use a balanced fertilizer such as a 20-20-20. By the time buds begin to form, alternate with one higher in phosphorus to promote bigger, lustier blooms.
When to Feed Brugmansia Plants
Every two weeks is when to feed brugmansia according to the American Brugmansia and Datura Society. Angel’s trumpet requires high amounts of additional nutrients to achieve maximum size and blooms. Use the all-purpose fertilizer once per week during its start-up period, then begin the higher phosphorus formula once per week about 3 to 4 weeks before bloom time. The best type of fertilizer for brugmansia is a water soluble one, which is readily available for the plant to uptake. Start at half dilutions when the plant is little and graduate to the full dose once the plant is mature. Water any fertilizer in well.
How to Fertilize Brugmansias
Young brugmansia can take 2 to3 years to flower from a hybrid cross. Most nurseries sell them ready to bloom, but if you are self-propagating, your young plant will need special care. Besides the macro-nutrients your young plant needs:
Magnesium
Iron
Zinc
Copper
You can find these in a good all-purpose plant food starters. These are easy to apply either as a foliar drench or watered into soil. When young plants are ready to repot, use a time-release fertilizer mixed into the soil for slow, gradual nutrient release. Feeding angel’s trumpet frequently will result in big spectacular bloom shows all summer long.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月30日
Also known as angel trumpet or simply “brug,” brugmansia is a shrubby plant with masses of impressive, trumpet-shaped flowers measuring up to 20 inches in length. The stunning blooms appear from spring until early winter. Although little care is required to grow this beauty, brugmansia pests and diseases may compromise the health and longevity of the plant.
Brugmansia Diseases
The most common Brugmansia diseases include:
Fungal wilts
Fungal issues affecting brugmansia include fusarium and verticillium wilt. Both diseases, which enter the plant through the roots and travel up the stem, block transmission of water and cause stunted growth and wilted foliage. Fusarium wilt is usually seen in warm weather, while verticillium is more common when the weather is cool. There are no practical chemical controls for fusarium and verticillium wilt, and the fungi can live in the soil for long periods. The best recourse is to begin with healthy, disease-resistant plants and grow them in contaminant-free potting medium.
Mosaic virus
Tobacco mosaic virus is identified by mosaic-like, yellow or light green areas. Although the virus rarely kills the plant, it can affect its appearance. Once infected, the disease remains for the life of the plant.
Root rot
Rot is a common, usually deadly, fungal disease caused by excessive watering. To prevent root rot, keep the potting mix moist, but never soggy, during the summer months. Decrease watering when temperatures drop in late summer or autumn.
Pests of Brugmansia
Brugmansia problems include pests such as:
Whiteflies
Weevils
Thrips
Scale
Aphids
Mites
Take steps to control the pests without chemicals; avoidance of insecticides is an important aspect of pest management. Chemicals are counterproductive because they kill insects such as lady beetles and lacewings that help keep pests in check. Insecticidal soap is useful in the control of sap-sucking insects and poses minimal danger to beneficial insects. Use the product only as directed, and never spray when beneficial insects are present on the leaves. Neem oil is another option.
Tomato hornworms are a different type of pest that can defoliate a plant quickly. The best control is to hand-pick the large, caterpillar-like pests, which are most often seen in mornings and early evenings. If squishing the pests makes you squeamish, drop them into a container of soapy water. Leave hornworms alone if you notice small larvae feeding on the pests. The larvae are trichogramma, parasitic wasps that are extremely effective when it comes to eating the eggs of numerous garden pests. These tiny wasps are highly beneficial in the garden, and they don’t sting.
Brugmansia Diseases
The most common Brugmansia diseases include:
Fungal wilts
Fungal issues affecting brugmansia include fusarium and verticillium wilt. Both diseases, which enter the plant through the roots and travel up the stem, block transmission of water and cause stunted growth and wilted foliage. Fusarium wilt is usually seen in warm weather, while verticillium is more common when the weather is cool. There are no practical chemical controls for fusarium and verticillium wilt, and the fungi can live in the soil for long periods. The best recourse is to begin with healthy, disease-resistant plants and grow them in contaminant-free potting medium.
Mosaic virus
Tobacco mosaic virus is identified by mosaic-like, yellow or light green areas. Although the virus rarely kills the plant, it can affect its appearance. Once infected, the disease remains for the life of the plant.
Root rot
Rot is a common, usually deadly, fungal disease caused by excessive watering. To prevent root rot, keep the potting mix moist, but never soggy, during the summer months. Decrease watering when temperatures drop in late summer or autumn.
Pests of Brugmansia
Brugmansia problems include pests such as:
Whiteflies
Weevils
Thrips
Scale
Aphids
Mites
Take steps to control the pests without chemicals; avoidance of insecticides is an important aspect of pest management. Chemicals are counterproductive because they kill insects such as lady beetles and lacewings that help keep pests in check. Insecticidal soap is useful in the control of sap-sucking insects and poses minimal danger to beneficial insects. Use the product only as directed, and never spray when beneficial insects are present on the leaves. Neem oil is another option.
Tomato hornworms are a different type of pest that can defoliate a plant quickly. The best control is to hand-pick the large, caterpillar-like pests, which are most often seen in mornings and early evenings. If squishing the pests makes you squeamish, drop them into a container of soapy water. Leave hornworms alone if you notice small larvae feeding on the pests. The larvae are trichogramma, parasitic wasps that are extremely effective when it comes to eating the eggs of numerous garden pests. These tiny wasps are highly beneficial in the garden, and they don’t sting.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月30日
Often known simply as “Brug,” brugmansia is a distinctive plant with big, fuzzy leaves and huge, drooping, trumpet-shaped blooms as long as your foot and interesting bean-like seedpods. This flashy tropical plant is surprisingly easy to grow, but it helps to know exactly how to water brugmansias.
When to Water Brugmansia
The frequency of brugmansia irrigation depends on a number of factors, including temperature, sunlight, time of year, and whether the plant is in a pot or in the ground. The key is to get acquainted with your brugmansia and it will tell you when it’s thirsty. Basically, water the plant when the top of the soil feels dry to the touch and the leaves begin to look a little wilted.
How much water does brugmansia need? As a general rule, the plant will require fairly large amounts of water during the summer. If your brugmansia is in a pot, you may need to water it every day when the weather is hot and dry. Brugmansia in the ground needs water less frequently. Potted brugmansia should be watered sparingly and allowed to dry out somewhat during the winter months, but don’t allow your plant to become completely bone dry.
How to Water Brugmansia
Watering brugmansia plants isn’t difficult. If possible, fill a watering can or bucket with water a day or so before you plan to water your brugmansia. This will allow harmful chemicals to evaporate and your plant will be happier and healthier. Pour the water over the soil slowly until water trickles through the drainage hole, then let the pot drain thoroughly. Never let the bottom of the pot stand in water; soggy, poorly drained soil invites root rot, a disease that is often fatal. A pot with a drainage hole is an absolutely necessity.
Give the plant a nutritional boost by mixing a general-purpose, water-soluble fertilizer into the water every couple of weeks or so.
When to Water Brugmansia
The frequency of brugmansia irrigation depends on a number of factors, including temperature, sunlight, time of year, and whether the plant is in a pot or in the ground. The key is to get acquainted with your brugmansia and it will tell you when it’s thirsty. Basically, water the plant when the top of the soil feels dry to the touch and the leaves begin to look a little wilted.
How much water does brugmansia need? As a general rule, the plant will require fairly large amounts of water during the summer. If your brugmansia is in a pot, you may need to water it every day when the weather is hot and dry. Brugmansia in the ground needs water less frequently. Potted brugmansia should be watered sparingly and allowed to dry out somewhat during the winter months, but don’t allow your plant to become completely bone dry.
How to Water Brugmansia
Watering brugmansia plants isn’t difficult. If possible, fill a watering can or bucket with water a day or so before you plan to water your brugmansia. This will allow harmful chemicals to evaporate and your plant will be happier and healthier. Pour the water over the soil slowly until water trickles through the drainage hole, then let the pot drain thoroughly. Never let the bottom of the pot stand in water; soggy, poorly drained soil invites root rot, a disease that is often fatal. A pot with a drainage hole is an absolutely necessity.
Give the plant a nutritional boost by mixing a general-purpose, water-soluble fertilizer into the water every couple of weeks or so.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月30日
Brugmansia is an eye-catching flowering plant native to Central and South Americas. The plant is also known as angel trumpet due to its 10-inch long blooms. Brugmansia angel trumpet is a monster of a plant and can grow up to 12 feet tall. These plants are not winter hardy but can be grown as annuals in northern climates in the summer. Growing brugmansia in ground works well in United States Department of Agriculture zones 9 to 12. Try a brugmansia in the garden for show-stopping color and dynamic proportions.
Brugmansia Angel Trumpet
Brugmansia are a popular collector’s plant. There are seven species of brugmansia but innumerable cultivars. The seven species are listed as extinct in the wild and today these plants are grown as ornamental specimens.
Brugmansia are heavy feeders and require quite a bit of water. Good brugmansia plant care will result in a small tree decorated with dangling trumpet-shaped flowers. Caring for brugmansia outdoors requires warm temperatures and a sunny location with protection from midday sun.
Brugmansia are divided into two groups that are genetically and regionally different. The warm group prefers warmer, sunny locations while the cool group flowers best in cooler temperatures. Both groups produce massive, woody stemmed plants with alternate toothed leaves, up to 12 inches long. The gigantic blooms are pendant and may be white, pink, yellow, orange, green or red with single, double or even triple petals. The flowers are very showy and often bear an attractive scent. Most brugmansia are pollinated by butterflies and they have a host relationship with many species. One brugmansia species is pollinated by a hummingbird.
Planting Brugmansia in Ground
Using brugmansia in the garden setting offers exotic impact with surprising ease of care. Amend the soil with plenty of organic material and loosen to a depth of a foot before installing the plant. Many gardeners prefer to grow the plants in containers so it is easy to move them indoors over winter. Gardeners in southern regions can simply plant them in a prepared garden plot. Some growers swear that brugmansia grow best in shade with only morning sun. They can also handle full sun but they may get wilted and stressed during the hottest point of the day. A better solution might be to choose a partial shade location. The most important consideration once you have chosen the location is good drainage and consistent moisture. Brugmansia angel trumpet is a huge feeder and needs plenty of moisture to sustain the massive amount of plant matter it produces.
Brugmansia Plant Care
Caring for brugmansia outdoors in summer is no trickier than any other plant so long as it gets 3 inches of water per week and a liquid feeding at least once per month. Brugmansia in warm climates will maintain a dormant state in winter but those in northern climates will either die if left outdoors or must be moved inside before cold weather threatens. Use a good commercial potting soil and a pot large enough to contain the root mass. Brugmansia respond well to pruning in spring. Most pruning consists of cutting back the branch tips to a growth node, but the plant can also withstand a hard pruning to within a few inches of the ground.
Brugmansia are prey to the standard sucking insects and some caterpillars and larvae. Use horticultural insecticide soaps to control any unwanted visitors.
Brugmansia Angel Trumpet
Brugmansia are a popular collector’s plant. There are seven species of brugmansia but innumerable cultivars. The seven species are listed as extinct in the wild and today these plants are grown as ornamental specimens.
Brugmansia are heavy feeders and require quite a bit of water. Good brugmansia plant care will result in a small tree decorated with dangling trumpet-shaped flowers. Caring for brugmansia outdoors requires warm temperatures and a sunny location with protection from midday sun.
Brugmansia are divided into two groups that are genetically and regionally different. The warm group prefers warmer, sunny locations while the cool group flowers best in cooler temperatures. Both groups produce massive, woody stemmed plants with alternate toothed leaves, up to 12 inches long. The gigantic blooms are pendant and may be white, pink, yellow, orange, green or red with single, double or even triple petals. The flowers are very showy and often bear an attractive scent. Most brugmansia are pollinated by butterflies and they have a host relationship with many species. One brugmansia species is pollinated by a hummingbird.
Planting Brugmansia in Ground
Using brugmansia in the garden setting offers exotic impact with surprising ease of care. Amend the soil with plenty of organic material and loosen to a depth of a foot before installing the plant. Many gardeners prefer to grow the plants in containers so it is easy to move them indoors over winter. Gardeners in southern regions can simply plant them in a prepared garden plot. Some growers swear that brugmansia grow best in shade with only morning sun. They can also handle full sun but they may get wilted and stressed during the hottest point of the day. A better solution might be to choose a partial shade location. The most important consideration once you have chosen the location is good drainage and consistent moisture. Brugmansia angel trumpet is a huge feeder and needs plenty of moisture to sustain the massive amount of plant matter it produces.
Brugmansia Plant Care
Caring for brugmansia outdoors in summer is no trickier than any other plant so long as it gets 3 inches of water per week and a liquid feeding at least once per month. Brugmansia in warm climates will maintain a dormant state in winter but those in northern climates will either die if left outdoors or must be moved inside before cold weather threatens. Use a good commercial potting soil and a pot large enough to contain the root mass. Brugmansia respond well to pruning in spring. Most pruning consists of cutting back the branch tips to a growth node, but the plant can also withstand a hard pruning to within a few inches of the ground.
Brugmansia are prey to the standard sucking insects and some caterpillars and larvae. Use horticultural insecticide soaps to control any unwanted visitors.
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