文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月30日
Using plants between pavers softens the look of your pathway or patio and keeps weeds from filling in bare spaces. Wondering what to plant? This article can help.
Planting Between Pavers
When using ground covers around pavers, you want them to meet several criteria. Look for plants that are tough so you don’t have to tiptoe around them. Choose short plants that won’t obstruct your path, and plants that are suited to the current light exposure. Using plants that spread to fill the space around them make growing plants between pavers easier. Here are a few suggestions. Irish moss – Irish moss adds soft, spongy texture to paths in shady areas. Only a couple of inches tall, it doesn’t create an obstruction. It’s usually sold in flats like sod. Just cut it to fit and lay it where you want it to grow. It is sometimes sold as Scottish moss.
Elfin thyme – Elfin thyme is a miniature version of creeping thyme. It grows only an inch or two tall, and you’ll enjoy its pleasant fragrance. You can plant it in the sun, where it grows flat, or in the shade where it forms little hills. It bounces back after short periods of dry weather, but you’ll need to water it if the dry weather lasts very long. Dwarf mondo grass – Dwarf mondo grass is a good choice for full or partial shade, and it is one of the few plants you can grow near black walnuts. The best dwarf mondo varieties for planting between pavers grow only an inch or two tall and spread readily. Baby’s tears – Baby’s tears is another selection for shady locations. They are often sold as houseplants, but they also make wonderful little plants to grow within pavers. It isn’t for everyone because it only grows in USDA zones 9 and warmer. The pretty foliage forms mounds about 5 inches tall.
Dichondra – Carolina ponysfoot is a pretty little North American native and species of Dichondra that grows in sun or partial shade. It stands up to heat but needs a little watering during prolonged dry spells. It also needs a little fertilizer every spring to keep its bright color. This low-growing ground cover grows in all 48 states in the continental U.S. It features bright green, round leaves that spread to fill an area.
Planting Between Pavers
When using ground covers around pavers, you want them to meet several criteria. Look for plants that are tough so you don’t have to tiptoe around them. Choose short plants that won’t obstruct your path, and plants that are suited to the current light exposure. Using plants that spread to fill the space around them make growing plants between pavers easier. Here are a few suggestions. Irish moss – Irish moss adds soft, spongy texture to paths in shady areas. Only a couple of inches tall, it doesn’t create an obstruction. It’s usually sold in flats like sod. Just cut it to fit and lay it where you want it to grow. It is sometimes sold as Scottish moss.
Elfin thyme – Elfin thyme is a miniature version of creeping thyme. It grows only an inch or two tall, and you’ll enjoy its pleasant fragrance. You can plant it in the sun, where it grows flat, or in the shade where it forms little hills. It bounces back after short periods of dry weather, but you’ll need to water it if the dry weather lasts very long. Dwarf mondo grass – Dwarf mondo grass is a good choice for full or partial shade, and it is one of the few plants you can grow near black walnuts. The best dwarf mondo varieties for planting between pavers grow only an inch or two tall and spread readily. Baby’s tears – Baby’s tears is another selection for shady locations. They are often sold as houseplants, but they also make wonderful little plants to grow within pavers. It isn’t for everyone because it only grows in USDA zones 9 and warmer. The pretty foliage forms mounds about 5 inches tall.
Dichondra – Carolina ponysfoot is a pretty little North American native and species of Dichondra that grows in sun or partial shade. It stands up to heat but needs a little watering during prolonged dry spells. It also needs a little fertilizer every spring to keep its bright color. This low-growing ground cover grows in all 48 states in the continental U.S. It features bright green, round leaves that spread to fill an area.
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Raghad Osama Al-rifai
2017年08月29日
Can someone help me identify this plant?
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Raghad Osama Al-rifai：@Ueca thank you ❤️
Ueca：Echeveria agavoides. May or may not be a cultivar.
文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月29日
There’s little doubt about the attractiveness of English ivy in the garden. The vigorous vine not only grows rapidly, but is hardy too with little maintenance involved with its care, making this ivy an exceptional groundcover plant. That being said, without periodic pruning to keep it in check, English ivy can become a nuisance, especially with regards to trees in the landscape. Read on to learn more about ivy damage to trees and what can be done to alleviate the problem.
Does it Harm Trees for Ivy to Grow?
In spite of differing opinions, English ivy can and will, in fact, damage trees and shrubs at some point, especially when the vine is allowed to run rampant. Overgrown ivy plants will eventually suppress nearby vegetation and engulf tree trunks. This can lead to a number of issues affecting the overall health of trees. While a tree may survive initially, the growth of ivy vines can weaken it over time, leaving it susceptible to pests, disease and wind damage as well as poor foliage growth.
English Ivy Tree Damage
Ivy damage to trees can eventually result in strangulation due to the sheer weight of overgrown English ivy vines, which can become rather large. As the vine climbs the trunk, it causes fierce competition for water and nutrients. Ivy roots themselves can become intertwined with the tree roots, which can further limit suitable this uptake. Once it surrounds branches or reaches the tree canopy, English ivy can block out sunlight and deprive contact with air…essentially choking the tree out.
Additionally, ivy damage to trees includes the possibility of rot, pest infestation and disease issues as trees without proper water, nutrients, light or air circulation are weaker and more susceptible to problems. Weakened trees are also more likely to fall during storms, putting homeowners at risk for possible injury or property damage. Removing ivy from trees is imperative to ensure the continued health of your trees. Even with aggressive pruning of English ivy, there’s no guarantee the vine will remain well behaved. Getting rid of English ivy is difficult, and unbeknownst to many gardeners is the fact that these vines when reaching full maturity produce small greenish flowers, which are followed by black berries. These berries are favored by wildlife, like birds, and may result in further spread via random droppings here and there.
How to Remove English Ivy from Trees
When removing ivy from trees, it should be done carefully to avoid damage to both the trunk and the roots. Additionally, it should be noted that the sap of English ivy can cause a rash in sensitive individuals, so wear gloves and long sleeves. There’s a term referred to as the “Life-saver” method which can be performed in removing ivy from trees. Basically, this involves removal of ivy in a 3- to 5-foot circle from the tree, like lifesaver candy, with the tree itself being the hole in the middle. The first step of this pruning method involves cutting away all the English ivy vines around the tree at eye level. Likewise, you can simply choose to cut an inch or two section from the ivy stem. Depending on the size of these vines, clippers, loppers or even a hand saw may be necessary.
As the individual vines are cut, they can be slowly peeled downward from the bark. Work your way down the trunk to the base of the tree, pulling back the ivy at ground level at least 3 to 5 feet. You can then cut the vines at ground level, treating the fresh cuts with an appropriate herbicide, like triclopyr and glyphosate. Paint the cuts on the still attached stem at full recommended strength. While you can normally apply herbicides at any time of year to English ivy, sunny winter days seem to be more effective, as the cooler temperatures allow the spray to penetrate the plant more easily.
You will likely have to come back later to treat any new sprouts, but these will eventually weaken the vine and it will stop putting out new growth. As the vine dries out in the tree, the dead ivy can be easily removed from the tree with a slight tug.
Does it Harm Trees for Ivy to Grow?
In spite of differing opinions, English ivy can and will, in fact, damage trees and shrubs at some point, especially when the vine is allowed to run rampant. Overgrown ivy plants will eventually suppress nearby vegetation and engulf tree trunks. This can lead to a number of issues affecting the overall health of trees. While a tree may survive initially, the growth of ivy vines can weaken it over time, leaving it susceptible to pests, disease and wind damage as well as poor foliage growth.
English Ivy Tree Damage
Ivy damage to trees can eventually result in strangulation due to the sheer weight of overgrown English ivy vines, which can become rather large. As the vine climbs the trunk, it causes fierce competition for water and nutrients. Ivy roots themselves can become intertwined with the tree roots, which can further limit suitable this uptake. Once it surrounds branches or reaches the tree canopy, English ivy can block out sunlight and deprive contact with air…essentially choking the tree out.
Additionally, ivy damage to trees includes the possibility of rot, pest infestation and disease issues as trees without proper water, nutrients, light or air circulation are weaker and more susceptible to problems. Weakened trees are also more likely to fall during storms, putting homeowners at risk for possible injury or property damage. Removing ivy from trees is imperative to ensure the continued health of your trees. Even with aggressive pruning of English ivy, there’s no guarantee the vine will remain well behaved. Getting rid of English ivy is difficult, and unbeknownst to many gardeners is the fact that these vines when reaching full maturity produce small greenish flowers, which are followed by black berries. These berries are favored by wildlife, like birds, and may result in further spread via random droppings here and there.
How to Remove English Ivy from Trees
When removing ivy from trees, it should be done carefully to avoid damage to both the trunk and the roots. Additionally, it should be noted that the sap of English ivy can cause a rash in sensitive individuals, so wear gloves and long sleeves. There’s a term referred to as the “Life-saver” method which can be performed in removing ivy from trees. Basically, this involves removal of ivy in a 3- to 5-foot circle from the tree, like lifesaver candy, with the tree itself being the hole in the middle. The first step of this pruning method involves cutting away all the English ivy vines around the tree at eye level. Likewise, you can simply choose to cut an inch or two section from the ivy stem. Depending on the size of these vines, clippers, loppers or even a hand saw may be necessary.
As the individual vines are cut, they can be slowly peeled downward from the bark. Work your way down the trunk to the base of the tree, pulling back the ivy at ground level at least 3 to 5 feet. You can then cut the vines at ground level, treating the fresh cuts with an appropriate herbicide, like triclopyr and glyphosate. Paint the cuts on the still attached stem at full recommended strength. While you can normally apply herbicides at any time of year to English ivy, sunny winter days seem to be more effective, as the cooler temperatures allow the spray to penetrate the plant more easily.
You will likely have to come back later to treat any new sprouts, but these will eventually weaken the vine and it will stop putting out new growth. As the vine dries out in the tree, the dead ivy can be easily removed from the tree with a slight tug.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月29日
English ivy (Hedera helix) is a vigorous, widely grown plant appreciated for its glossy, palmate leaves. English ivy is extremely hale and hearty, tolerating severe winters as far north as USDA zone 9. However, this versatile vine is just as happy when grown as a houseplant. Whether English ivy is grown indoors or out, this fast-growing plant benefits from an occasional trim to stimulate new growth, improve air circulation and keep the vine within boundaries and looking its best. Trimming also creates a full, healthy-looking plant. Read on to learn more about pruning English ivy.
When to Trim Ivy Plants Outdoors
If you’re growing English ivy as a ground cover, ivy plant trimming is best done before new growth appears in spring. Set your mower on the highest cutting height to prevent scalping the plant. You can also prune English ivy with hedge shears, especially if the ground is rocky. English ivy pruning depends on growth, and may need to be done every other year, or as often as every year. Use clippers or a weed trimmer to trim along sidewalks or borders as often as needed. Similarly, if your English ivy vine is trained to a trellis or other support, use clippers to prune out unwanted growth.
Ivy Plant Trimming Indoors
Pruning English ivy indoors prevents the plant from becoming long and leggy. Simply pinch or snap the vine with your fingers just above a leaf, or prune the plant with clippers or scissors. Although you can discard the cuttings, you can also use them to propagate a new plant. Just stick the cuttings in a vase of water, then set the vase in a sunny window. When roots are about ½ to 1 inch long, plant the new English ivy in a pot filled with well-drained potting mix.
When to Trim Ivy Plants Outdoors
If you’re growing English ivy as a ground cover, ivy plant trimming is best done before new growth appears in spring. Set your mower on the highest cutting height to prevent scalping the plant. You can also prune English ivy with hedge shears, especially if the ground is rocky. English ivy pruning depends on growth, and may need to be done every other year, or as often as every year. Use clippers or a weed trimmer to trim along sidewalks or borders as often as needed. Similarly, if your English ivy vine is trained to a trellis or other support, use clippers to prune out unwanted growth.
Ivy Plant Trimming Indoors
Pruning English ivy indoors prevents the plant from becoming long and leggy. Simply pinch or snap the vine with your fingers just above a leaf, or prune the plant with clippers or scissors. Although you can discard the cuttings, you can also use them to propagate a new plant. Just stick the cuttings in a vase of water, then set the vase in a sunny window. When roots are about ½ to 1 inch long, plant the new English ivy in a pot filled with well-drained potting mix.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月29日
English ivy plants (Hedera helix) are superb climbers, clinging to almost any surface by means of small roots that grow along the stems. English ivy care is a snap, so you can plant it in distant and hard-to-reach areas without worrying about maintenance.
Growing English Ivy Plants
Plant English ivy in a shady area with an organically rich soil. If your soil lacks organic matter, amend it with compost before planting. Space the plants 18 to 24 inches apart, or 1 foot apart for quicker coverage.
The vines grow 50 feet long or more, but don’t expect quick results in the beginning. The first year after planting, the vines grow very slowly, and in the second year they begin to put on noticeable growth. By the third year the plants take off, and quickly cover trellises, walls, fences, trees or anything else they encounter.
These plants are useful as well as attractive. Hide unsightly views by growing English ivy as a screen on a trellis or as a cover for unattractive walls and structures. Since it loves shade, the vines make an ideal ground cover under a tree where grass refuses to grow. Indoors, grow English ivy in pots with a stake or other vertical structure for climbing, or in hanging baskets where it can tumble over the edges. You can also grow it in a pot with a shaped wire frame to create a topiary design. Variegated types are especially attractive when planted in this way.
How to Care for English Ivy
There’s very little involved with English ivy care. Water them often enough to keep the soil moist until the plants are established and growing. These vines grow best when they have plenty of moisture, but they tolerate dry conditions once established. When grown as a ground cover, shear off the tops of the plants in spring to rejuvenate the vines and discourage rodents. The foliage regrows quickly.
English ivy seldom needs fertilizer, but if you don’t think your plants are growing as they should, spray them with half-strength liquid fertilizer.
Growing English Ivy Plants
Plant English ivy in a shady area with an organically rich soil. If your soil lacks organic matter, amend it with compost before planting. Space the plants 18 to 24 inches apart, or 1 foot apart for quicker coverage.
The vines grow 50 feet long or more, but don’t expect quick results in the beginning. The first year after planting, the vines grow very slowly, and in the second year they begin to put on noticeable growth. By the third year the plants take off, and quickly cover trellises, walls, fences, trees or anything else they encounter.
These plants are useful as well as attractive. Hide unsightly views by growing English ivy as a screen on a trellis or as a cover for unattractive walls and structures. Since it loves shade, the vines make an ideal ground cover under a tree where grass refuses to grow. Indoors, grow English ivy in pots with a stake or other vertical structure for climbing, or in hanging baskets where it can tumble over the edges. You can also grow it in a pot with a shaped wire frame to create a topiary design. Variegated types are especially attractive when planted in this way.
How to Care for English Ivy
There’s very little involved with English ivy care. Water them often enough to keep the soil moist until the plants are established and growing. These vines grow best when they have plenty of moisture, but they tolerate dry conditions once established. When grown as a ground cover, shear off the tops of the plants in spring to rejuvenate the vines and discourage rodents. The foliage regrows quickly.
English ivy seldom needs fertilizer, but if you don’t think your plants are growing as they should, spray them with half-strength liquid fertilizer.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月29日
Creeping phlox (Phlox subulata) produces a colorful spring carpet of soft pastel hues. Little expert knowledge is needed on how to plant and care for creeping phlox. Growing creeping phlox over a rockery or in tough soil conditions provides a nearly carefree ground cover or cascading plant. Consider growing it in between pavers, in a planter or just as a part of a bright spring bed as well.
About Creeping Phlox
A perennial nature and semi-evergreen habit are important facts about creeping phlox. These plants have needle-like foliage with small starry, five-pointed flowers in red, lavender, pink, white or bluish-purple. Creeping phlox blooms in spring and produces long, spreading stems, which become woody with age. These thicker growths cease to produce flowers over time and may be cut out of the plant to encourage the newer, softer stems that do bloom. In addition, the plant has a moderate growth rate and can get 4 to 6 inches high with a 2 foot spread.
Creeping Phlox Planting Instructions
Learning how to plant and care for creeping phlox is quite simple. The plant has an easy going nature and thrives in a variety of conditions. Almost any soil is suitable for growing creeping phlox as long as it is in full sun to partial shade. For best results, however, plant it in a sunny location where soils are moist but well drained. Dig in some organic soil amendments to enrich the soil and water the plant until it is established. Plant creeping phlox at soil level and avoid burying the stem in the earth. Follow these easy creeping phlox planting instructions for years of early spring color.
Care of Creeping Phlox
Little special care or maintenance is necessary when growing creeping phlox. The plant benefits from an early spring application of fertilizer to encourage new growth and flowering. Even established plants should have supplemental watering in hot summer periods and plants along rockeries may show signs of scorching due to the hot surroundings. The stems can be cut back after flowering to promote a second bloom. Care of creeping phlox may also include cutting the plant back in late winter to allow for rejuvenation and to produce young, more compact stems. Watching for mites and other pests and dealing with these infestations as soon as they are spotted using an organic insecticidal soap is also important for the plant’s care.
Creeping Phlox Propagation
The plant can also be divided to provide more growing creeping phlox plants. Simply dig the plant up, preserving the root ball. Cut through the center of the plant and through the roots with a sharp soil knife or even a spade. Replant one-half of the phlox in the original hole and plant the other anywhere you want more of the colorful ground cover. The process can be done every few years to create healthier plants. You can also take stem cuttings for rooting in summer or fall. Dip these in a plant hormone and plant in a soil-less medium to take root.
About Creeping Phlox
A perennial nature and semi-evergreen habit are important facts about creeping phlox. These plants have needle-like foliage with small starry, five-pointed flowers in red, lavender, pink, white or bluish-purple. Creeping phlox blooms in spring and produces long, spreading stems, which become woody with age. These thicker growths cease to produce flowers over time and may be cut out of the plant to encourage the newer, softer stems that do bloom. In addition, the plant has a moderate growth rate and can get 4 to 6 inches high with a 2 foot spread.
Creeping Phlox Planting Instructions
Learning how to plant and care for creeping phlox is quite simple. The plant has an easy going nature and thrives in a variety of conditions. Almost any soil is suitable for growing creeping phlox as long as it is in full sun to partial shade. For best results, however, plant it in a sunny location where soils are moist but well drained. Dig in some organic soil amendments to enrich the soil and water the plant until it is established. Plant creeping phlox at soil level and avoid burying the stem in the earth. Follow these easy creeping phlox planting instructions for years of early spring color.
Care of Creeping Phlox
Little special care or maintenance is necessary when growing creeping phlox. The plant benefits from an early spring application of fertilizer to encourage new growth and flowering. Even established plants should have supplemental watering in hot summer periods and plants along rockeries may show signs of scorching due to the hot surroundings. The stems can be cut back after flowering to promote a second bloom. Care of creeping phlox may also include cutting the plant back in late winter to allow for rejuvenation and to produce young, more compact stems. Watching for mites and other pests and dealing with these infestations as soon as they are spotted using an organic insecticidal soap is also important for the plant’s care.
Creeping Phlox Propagation
The plant can also be divided to provide more growing creeping phlox plants. Simply dig the plant up, preserving the root ball. Cut through the center of the plant and through the roots with a sharp soil knife or even a spade. Replant one-half of the phlox in the original hole and plant the other anywhere you want more of the colorful ground cover. The process can be done every few years to create healthier plants. You can also take stem cuttings for rooting in summer or fall. Dip these in a plant hormone and plant in a soil-less medium to take root.
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文章
Miss Chen
2017年08月29日
Rose (Rosa spp.) cuttings root slowly and with little indication on top of the soil that there's anything going on below it. The first sign that the process is progressing – the appearance of new foliage -- comes months after you plant the cutting. It will be several more months until the cutting has taken root enough to be transplanted outdoors. It can be a frustrating wait for the impatient, but it's the best way to get a new rosebush that's identical to the parent plant.
The Best of Times
Roses, depending on the species, cultivar or variety, are hardy in all U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones. Know the zones for your particular plant, because the best time to take a rose cutting depends largely on climate. Typically, cuttings are ready in late fall, just after the last of the season's flowers fade and the weather cools. Cuttings can be taken in spring, as long as you wait until the stem is no longer soft and green.
Plan Ahead
Once the cutting is removed from the bush, work quickly so it doesn't dry out. Prepare in advance before you head out to the garden: Be sure your pruning shears are razor sharp and disinfected. Soak them for five minutes in a solution of 1 part bleach and 3 parts water; rinse them with water and allow them to air dry before using them. Fill a 4-inch nursery pot that has drainage holes in the bottom with a combination of 3 parts sand and 1 part peat moss and pour water over the mixture until it is saturated. Use your finger or a pencil to create a 3- to 4-inch deep planting hole, and set the pot aside to drain. Grab a moist paper towel and a plastic produce bag as you head out to the garden.
Be Choosy
Look for a rose stem that has recently bloomed. Measure 6 inches, from the tip of the stem back toward the main stem, and make a 45-degree angled cut to remove it from the bush. Immediately wrap the stem in the moist paper towel and enclose it in the bag. Do not allow the cutting to dry out for even a short amount of time.
Plant It
Remove all the foliage from the bottom part of the stem, and allow three or four leaves to remain at the top. If there are hips or faded flowers, remove those as well. Use a small, sharp knife to scrape the outer layer of bark from the bottom inch of stem. Dip that portion of the stem in water, and then roll it in rooting hormone powder until it's covered. Immediately stick the hormone-tipped end of the cutting into the prepared hole in the planting medium and use your hands to pack the medium around the cutting.
Care While Rooting
Rose cuttings require humidity to produce roots, so mist the plant with water from a spray bottle. Insert four wood craft sticks, equally spaced, into the planting medium around the inside perimeter of the pot. Slide the pot into a plastic bag, adjusting the plastic so that the sticks hold it away from the cutting. Secure the bag and place the pot in an outdoor area where there's filtered sunlight. Open the bag for about 15 minutes every other day to allow air to circulate. Remove the bag when you notice new foliage. Water the soil to keep it moist but otherwise do not disturb the cutting until it's ready to be planted in a permanent spot outdoors -- typically one year from taking the cutting.
The Best of Times
Roses, depending on the species, cultivar or variety, are hardy in all U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones. Know the zones for your particular plant, because the best time to take a rose cutting depends largely on climate. Typically, cuttings are ready in late fall, just after the last of the season's flowers fade and the weather cools. Cuttings can be taken in spring, as long as you wait until the stem is no longer soft and green.
Plan Ahead
Once the cutting is removed from the bush, work quickly so it doesn't dry out. Prepare in advance before you head out to the garden: Be sure your pruning shears are razor sharp and disinfected. Soak them for five minutes in a solution of 1 part bleach and 3 parts water; rinse them with water and allow them to air dry before using them. Fill a 4-inch nursery pot that has drainage holes in the bottom with a combination of 3 parts sand and 1 part peat moss and pour water over the mixture until it is saturated. Use your finger or a pencil to create a 3- to 4-inch deep planting hole, and set the pot aside to drain. Grab a moist paper towel and a plastic produce bag as you head out to the garden.
Be Choosy
Look for a rose stem that has recently bloomed. Measure 6 inches, from the tip of the stem back toward the main stem, and make a 45-degree angled cut to remove it from the bush. Immediately wrap the stem in the moist paper towel and enclose it in the bag. Do not allow the cutting to dry out for even a short amount of time.
Plant It
Remove all the foliage from the bottom part of the stem, and allow three or four leaves to remain at the top. If there are hips or faded flowers, remove those as well. Use a small, sharp knife to scrape the outer layer of bark from the bottom inch of stem. Dip that portion of the stem in water, and then roll it in rooting hormone powder until it's covered. Immediately stick the hormone-tipped end of the cutting into the prepared hole in the planting medium and use your hands to pack the medium around the cutting.
Care While Rooting
Rose cuttings require humidity to produce roots, so mist the plant with water from a spray bottle. Insert four wood craft sticks, equally spaced, into the planting medium around the inside perimeter of the pot. Slide the pot into a plastic bag, adjusting the plastic so that the sticks hold it away from the cutting. Secure the bag and place the pot in an outdoor area where there's filtered sunlight. Open the bag for about 15 minutes every other day to allow air to circulate. Remove the bag when you notice new foliage. Water the soil to keep it moist but otherwise do not disturb the cutting until it's ready to be planted in a permanent spot outdoors -- typically one year from taking the cutting.
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文章
Miss Chen
2017年08月29日
Roses (Rosa spp.) are hardy in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 4 through 9, depending on the variety. Varieties include climbing or rambling, bush, hybrid and miniature. Some roses bloom on canes produced the previous year and others on the current year's growth. Pruning at the wrong time can lead to poor blossom production or make the plants susceptible to pests diseases and weather damage. Hard-prune hybrid, bush and miniature roses in spring just before they produce leaves, and hard-prune climbing roses right after their blooms fade in summer. About one-third of a rose bush remains after a hard prune. Trimming instead of hard-pruning, however, removes only enough growth to shape the bushes and to encourage new blooms. Trim all kinds of roses throughout the growing season for size control, additional flowering or to remove faded blooms and damaged branches.
Step 1
Remove rose bushes' dead canes any time you notice them. Cut back each dead portion of a cane to the green part of the cane, using pruning shears. Check whether or not the pith -- the center of the cane -- is white. If the pith is brown, prune back the cane to its part that has a white pith.
Step 2
Cut away branches that are smaller in diameter than a pencil throughout the growing season. Make each cut at a 45-degree angle away from an outward-facing stem bud.
Step 3
Trim back stems that cross each other or may grow into each other when you notice the problem. Cut such a stem back to the main cane, leaving about 1/4 inch of the stem remaining. Use loppers or pruning shears.
Step 4
Cut the stem of each spent flower just below the first set of a five-leaf leaflet. Cut just below a seven-leaf leaflet if you want to reduce a rose bush's height. Removing spent flowers is called deadheading.
Step 5
Remove two or three center, old canes at the base of a crowded or overgrown rose bush by using loppers. This technique opens the bush's center, providing it better air circulation during the growing season.
Step 1
Remove rose bushes' dead canes any time you notice them. Cut back each dead portion of a cane to the green part of the cane, using pruning shears. Check whether or not the pith -- the center of the cane -- is white. If the pith is brown, prune back the cane to its part that has a white pith.
Step 2
Cut away branches that are smaller in diameter than a pencil throughout the growing season. Make each cut at a 45-degree angle away from an outward-facing stem bud.
Step 3
Trim back stems that cross each other or may grow into each other when you notice the problem. Cut such a stem back to the main cane, leaving about 1/4 inch of the stem remaining. Use loppers or pruning shears.
Step 4
Cut the stem of each spent flower just below the first set of a five-leaf leaflet. Cut just below a seven-leaf leaflet if you want to reduce a rose bush's height. Removing spent flowers is called deadheading.
Step 5
Remove two or three center, old canes at the base of a crowded or overgrown rose bush by using loppers. This technique opens the bush's center, providing it better air circulation during the growing season.
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文章
Miss Chen
2017年08月29日
Roses make a wonderful addition to any garden. If you are fortunate to come across a wild rose, you can easily transplant it to your own garden, adding beauty and uniqueness. With the right know-how and the proper tools, you can add this thriving plant to just about any setting.
Step 1
Find the plant you prefer. If you have a choice of multiple plants, look for one that is particularly healthy. Make sure you choose a plant that is the right size for your garden as well.
Step 2
Wait until the dormant season to transplant. Wild roses are best transplanted in their dormant season, sometime from November through February. You can of course try to transplant them during other parts of the year, but the dormant season gives the best results.
Step 3
Dig up the plant. Dig as deeply as you can to get as much of the long taproot as possible. Depending on the age of the plant, you may not be able to dig out the entire root. So long as you get most of the root, the plant should not suffer any damage if the root is cut. Wild roses also have numerous smaller roots. These can be trimmed if necessary.
Step 4
Transfer the plant to a large piece of plastic, a tarp or a large flower pot. Dig up some of the surrounding soil as well, and place it into the plastic or pot. This will help the rose acclimate to its new home.
Step 5
Dig a hole in your garden to accommodate the new rose. Dig deeply and add in some of the original soil and some humus or other organic material. This is very important for the rose's growth in the new growing season.
Step 6
Gently place the rose into the hole, and with a mixture of soil and organic material, fill the hole. Water the rose in well as this will help the transplant thrive. Add a mound of mulch around the base of the rose and wait until the spring for new growth.
Step 1
Find the plant you prefer. If you have a choice of multiple plants, look for one that is particularly healthy. Make sure you choose a plant that is the right size for your garden as well.
Step 2
Wait until the dormant season to transplant. Wild roses are best transplanted in their dormant season, sometime from November through February. You can of course try to transplant them during other parts of the year, but the dormant season gives the best results.
Step 3
Dig up the plant. Dig as deeply as you can to get as much of the long taproot as possible. Depending on the age of the plant, you may not be able to dig out the entire root. So long as you get most of the root, the plant should not suffer any damage if the root is cut. Wild roses also have numerous smaller roots. These can be trimmed if necessary.
Step 4
Transfer the plant to a large piece of plastic, a tarp or a large flower pot. Dig up some of the surrounding soil as well, and place it into the plastic or pot. This will help the rose acclimate to its new home.
Step 5
Dig a hole in your garden to accommodate the new rose. Dig deeply and add in some of the original soil and some humus or other organic material. This is very important for the rose's growth in the new growing season.
Step 6
Gently place the rose into the hole, and with a mixture of soil and organic material, fill the hole. Water the rose in well as this will help the transplant thrive. Add a mound of mulch around the base of the rose and wait until the spring for new growth.
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文章
Miss Chen
2017年08月29日
Bananas continue their usefulness even after you've eaten the fruit. The inedible peels provide potassium and magnesium to nutrient-hungry plants, including rose bushes (Rosa spp), which thrive in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 3 to 11. Some gardeners also swear by banana peels' ability to deter aphids -- the bane of rose growers everywhere. If you're a banana lover, you have a few options for using the castoff peels to nourish and protect roses.
A Banana a Day
Whole peels deteriorate more slowly than strips or chunks, robbing your roses of the more immediate benefits of the decomposing plant material. Once you've peeled your banana, chop the peels into strips or chunks. This is also a good time to get rid of the blackened whole bananas you never got around to -- just chop the whole fruit, flesh and all, and mix it with the processed peels. If you don't eat bananas frequently, save the chopped pieces in the freezer, either in a jar or a tightly sealed bag.
Daily Dose
To feed individual rose bushes, gently remove about 1 inch of soil in a circular trench around the bush's base. After scattering the chopped peels in this circular trench, backfill it with soil and replace mulch, if necessary. If you have a rose hedge, work your way along the row over the course of the growing season. Dig a short shallow trench in front of a new section of the rose hedge each day, backfilling with soil and mulch as you go. When rotting fruit makes up a portion of the daily dose, digging the trench more deeply will deter foraging pests, as will mixing in wood ashes to neutralize the scent.
Tropical Mulch
If you have the room to spread out peels to dry them, you can make a material that mulches and nourishes your rose bushes at the same time. Spreading the peels flat on screens in a dark, dry room is the least labor-intensive method -- especially if you are consuming bananas during the roses' long dormant season -- but you can also dry the peels in a dehydrator or in a low oven. Once you've accumulated several pounds of dried peels, grind them in a food processor. Scatter this mulch around the rose bushes in the spring.
Piling On
Mixing chopped banana peels into the compost pile is another option for feeding rose bushes. This method is especially helpful if you either don't wish to bury the bananas around the rose bushes every few days or don't eat enough of the fruit to make feeding individual roses worth the while. Instead, mix the peels in with your other fruit and vegetable peelings, and toss them on the compost pile, where the peels will add their nutrients as they break down. It's best to either bury the fresh food scraps a few feet into the compost pile or mix them with wood ashes before tossing them on the pile.
A Banana a Day
Whole peels deteriorate more slowly than strips or chunks, robbing your roses of the more immediate benefits of the decomposing plant material. Once you've peeled your banana, chop the peels into strips or chunks. This is also a good time to get rid of the blackened whole bananas you never got around to -- just chop the whole fruit, flesh and all, and mix it with the processed peels. If you don't eat bananas frequently, save the chopped pieces in the freezer, either in a jar or a tightly sealed bag.
Daily Dose
To feed individual rose bushes, gently remove about 1 inch of soil in a circular trench around the bush's base. After scattering the chopped peels in this circular trench, backfill it with soil and replace mulch, if necessary. If you have a rose hedge, work your way along the row over the course of the growing season. Dig a short shallow trench in front of a new section of the rose hedge each day, backfilling with soil and mulch as you go. When rotting fruit makes up a portion of the daily dose, digging the trench more deeply will deter foraging pests, as will mixing in wood ashes to neutralize the scent.
Tropical Mulch
If you have the room to spread out peels to dry them, you can make a material that mulches and nourishes your rose bushes at the same time. Spreading the peels flat on screens in a dark, dry room is the least labor-intensive method -- especially if you are consuming bananas during the roses' long dormant season -- but you can also dry the peels in a dehydrator or in a low oven. Once you've accumulated several pounds of dried peels, grind them in a food processor. Scatter this mulch around the rose bushes in the spring.
Piling On
Mixing chopped banana peels into the compost pile is another option for feeding rose bushes. This method is especially helpful if you either don't wish to bury the bananas around the rose bushes every few days or don't eat enough of the fruit to make feeding individual roses worth the while. Instead, mix the peels in with your other fruit and vegetable peelings, and toss them on the compost pile, where the peels will add their nutrients as they break down. It's best to either bury the fresh food scraps a few feet into the compost pile or mix them with wood ashes before tossing them on the pile.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月29日
Chameleon plants (Houittuynia) are a colorful ground cover in areas that might otherwise remain bare because of poor or wet soil. Chameleon ground cover is adaptable to many areas and can be useful in the landscape. However, chameleon plant care includes containing the plant and keeping its invasive tendencies within bounds. Chameleon ground cover, of the Lizard’s-Tail family, is attractive. Colors of red, bronze, cream, and yellow border green leaves when growing chameleon plants. Chameleon ground cover is an herbaceous perennial, dying back in winter. In June and July, inconspicuous flowers bloom, but are most often not noticeable.
Containing Growing Chameleon Plants
If you’re interested in having the chameleon plant growing in your yard, pond or bog, look at ways to minimize chameleon plant care by planting in containers and contained areas. Learning how to grow chameleon ground cover is not hard, once you’ve learned how to keep it under control. Growing chameleon plants need little encouragement. They can quickly cover an area. Just as easily, chameleon ground cover can get out of hand. Plant rhizomes into a large container and sink it into a hole in the ground in the area where coverage is desired. Get the chameleon plant growing near a buried fence or sidewalk that may limit growth and spread. Sprigs growing out of the designated area should be removed at the rhizome.
How to Grow Chameleon Ground Cover
Plant chameleon ground cover in a full sun or a partially shaded area. Best color develops in a sunny spot, but the plant remains vigorous in a shaded area. Have the chameleon plant growing in large areas where it can be mowed, if desired. You don’t want this plant growing near landscaped areas that it might invade. Avoid growing it near the porch or deck, as growing chameleon plants emit a fragrance similar to diesel fuel. Chameleon ground cover is useful around ponds and boggy areas where color is needed in wet soil. Pot chameleon plants as you would any other water plant and get them going for sensational interest in the water garden or bog.
Now that you’ve learned how to grow chameleon ground cover and it’s pros and cons, plant it responsibly, so that it doesn’t invade forests and destroy native plants. Take advantage of this useful ground cover while keeping it under control.
Containing Growing Chameleon Plants
If you’re interested in having the chameleon plant growing in your yard, pond or bog, look at ways to minimize chameleon plant care by planting in containers and contained areas. Learning how to grow chameleon ground cover is not hard, once you’ve learned how to keep it under control. Growing chameleon plants need little encouragement. They can quickly cover an area. Just as easily, chameleon ground cover can get out of hand. Plant rhizomes into a large container and sink it into a hole in the ground in the area where coverage is desired. Get the chameleon plant growing near a buried fence or sidewalk that may limit growth and spread. Sprigs growing out of the designated area should be removed at the rhizome.
How to Grow Chameleon Ground Cover
Plant chameleon ground cover in a full sun or a partially shaded area. Best color develops in a sunny spot, but the plant remains vigorous in a shaded area. Have the chameleon plant growing in large areas where it can be mowed, if desired. You don’t want this plant growing near landscaped areas that it might invade. Avoid growing it near the porch or deck, as growing chameleon plants emit a fragrance similar to diesel fuel. Chameleon ground cover is useful around ponds and boggy areas where color is needed in wet soil. Pot chameleon plants as you would any other water plant and get them going for sensational interest in the water garden or bog.
Now that you’ve learned how to grow chameleon ground cover and it’s pros and cons, plant it responsibly, so that it doesn’t invade forests and destroy native plants. Take advantage of this useful ground cover while keeping it under control.
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文章
Miss Chen
2017年08月29日
Roses should be pruned each year to keep the plant healthy and promote the fullest and best blooms. If your rose bush has been neglected, it may not be too late to return it to a healthy status. Once you have cut out all of the old, dead or diseased canes, the plant gains increased air flow and you gain a healthy bush with blooms to enjoy throughout the growing season.
Preparation
Step 1
Put on a long-sleeved shirt to protect your arms from the thorns on the plant.
Step 2
Wear thorn-resistant gloves. Leather or coated gloves are good choices.
Step 3
Dip the blades of your pruning equipment into hydrogen peroxide to disinfect the blades before beginning.
Procedures
Step 4
Cut an area out of the side of the bush with hand pruners to allow access to the center of the plant.
Step 5
Reach into the center of the plant to cut out dead or dried-out canes.
Step 6
Cut out all dead canes at the base of the plant. Use the loppers for the thicker canes and the hand pruners for the smaller canes.
Step 7
Select one-third of the remaining strong canes to stay on the plant. The canes should be about the diameter of a pencil. Remove the rest of the canes using the hand pruners.
Step 8
Cut the remaining canes down by one-half to two-thirds of the plant. Cut the stems about 1/4 inch above an outward facing leaf bud at a 45-degree angle. The cut should slant away from the bud. Apply wood glue to the cut stems to seal them and prevent wood borers from getting inside the stems.
Step 9
Trim all leaves from the remaining stems. Dig down to the root to remove any suckers. Tear them off where they originate to prevent additional suckers from growing.
Step 10
Clean up any leaves that drop to the ground around the base of the plant to prevent the spread of fungal disease that may be present in the leaves. Apply rose plant food around the base of the plant.
Preparation
Step 1
Put on a long-sleeved shirt to protect your arms from the thorns on the plant.
Step 2
Wear thorn-resistant gloves. Leather or coated gloves are good choices.
Step 3
Dip the blades of your pruning equipment into hydrogen peroxide to disinfect the blades before beginning.
Procedures
Step 4
Cut an area out of the side of the bush with hand pruners to allow access to the center of the plant.
Step 5
Reach into the center of the plant to cut out dead or dried-out canes.
Step 6
Cut out all dead canes at the base of the plant. Use the loppers for the thicker canes and the hand pruners for the smaller canes.
Step 7
Select one-third of the remaining strong canes to stay on the plant. The canes should be about the diameter of a pencil. Remove the rest of the canes using the hand pruners.
Step 8
Cut the remaining canes down by one-half to two-thirds of the plant. Cut the stems about 1/4 inch above an outward facing leaf bud at a 45-degree angle. The cut should slant away from the bud. Apply wood glue to the cut stems to seal them and prevent wood borers from getting inside the stems.
Step 9
Trim all leaves from the remaining stems. Dig down to the root to remove any suckers. Tear them off where they originate to prevent additional suckers from growing.
Step 10
Clean up any leaves that drop to the ground around the base of the plant to prevent the spread of fungal disease that may be present in the leaves. Apply rose plant food around the base of the plant.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月29日
Brass buttons is the common name given to the plant Leptinella squalida. This very low growing, vigorously spreading plant is a good choice for rock gardens, the spaces between flagstones, and lawns where turf won’t grow. Keep reading to learn more Leptinella information, including the growing and care of brass button plants.
Leptinella Information
Brass buttons gets its name from the small yellow to green flowers it produces in the spring. The plant is in the daisy family, and its flowers look very much like the centers of daisy flowers, minus the long white petals. These small, hard looking flowers are said to resemble buttons.
Leptinella brass button plants are native to New Zealand but are widespread now. They are hardy from USDA zones 4 through 9, though just what that means depends on the zone. In 9 and 10, the plants are evergreen and will last all year. In colder climates, the leaves may die back. If protected by snow or mulch, the leaves will turn brown but stay in place. If exposed to the cold winter air, the leaves will die and new ones will grow in the spring. This is fine, though the new leaf growth will take a month or two to come back and the plant won’t be as attractive in the spring.
Growing Brass Buttons
Growing brass buttons in the garden is very easy. In cooler climates, the plants like full sun, but in hotter areas, they fare better with partial light shade. They will grow in a wide range of soils, though they prefer well drained, rich soil with frequent watering. They spread aggressively through runners just underground. You may need to dig them up and separate them every now and again in order to keep them in check.
While some varieties boast green leaves, one particular variety that is very popular is called Platt’s Black, named for the garden of Jane Platt in which the plant was first documented. This variety has dark, almost black leaves with green tips and very dark flowers. Growing black brass buttons in the garden is a matter of personal taste – some gardeners think it looks on the verge of death, while others think it looks fascinating, especially interspersed with a bright green variety. Either way, the plant makes an exceptional specimen in the garden.
Leptinella Information
Brass buttons gets its name from the small yellow to green flowers it produces in the spring. The plant is in the daisy family, and its flowers look very much like the centers of daisy flowers, minus the long white petals. These small, hard looking flowers are said to resemble buttons.
Leptinella brass button plants are native to New Zealand but are widespread now. They are hardy from USDA zones 4 through 9, though just what that means depends on the zone. In 9 and 10, the plants are evergreen and will last all year. In colder climates, the leaves may die back. If protected by snow or mulch, the leaves will turn brown but stay in place. If exposed to the cold winter air, the leaves will die and new ones will grow in the spring. This is fine, though the new leaf growth will take a month or two to come back and the plant won’t be as attractive in the spring.
Growing Brass Buttons
Growing brass buttons in the garden is very easy. In cooler climates, the plants like full sun, but in hotter areas, they fare better with partial light shade. They will grow in a wide range of soils, though they prefer well drained, rich soil with frequent watering. They spread aggressively through runners just underground. You may need to dig them up and separate them every now and again in order to keep them in check.
While some varieties boast green leaves, one particular variety that is very popular is called Platt’s Black, named for the garden of Jane Platt in which the plant was first documented. This variety has dark, almost black leaves with green tips and very dark flowers. Growing black brass buttons in the garden is a matter of personal taste – some gardeners think it looks on the verge of death, while others think it looks fascinating, especially interspersed with a bright green variety. Either way, the plant makes an exceptional specimen in the garden.
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文章
Miss Chen
2017年08月29日
Miniature roses may look delicate with their tiny blooms, but they are a surprisingly hardy plant. Although they have been bred specifically to curtail their size, they retain much of the hardiness of rose bushes that tower over them in size. Many can be grown outside year round in zones 6 through 10 and will survive to zone 4 if heavily mulched and protected from winter weather. Their size makes them ideal as houseplants that thrive on sunny windowsills.
Step 1
Plant miniature roses in all-purpose potting soil. Provide adequate drainage by covering the drainage holes with pebbles or broken shards from clay pots.
Step 2
Grow on a sunny windowsill. Some require supplemental lighting. Watch your roses for signs of inadequate light. If the stems stretch leaving bare spaces between leaves, it may be an indication that the rose bush is reaching for more light. A miniature rose should be short and compact with full foliage.
Step 3
Pinch out new growth to encourage the plant to bush out. This creates a full plant with abundant foliage. If the plant still stretches for light, you may need to add supplemental lighting. You can purchase grow lights for plants at your local hardware or garden supply store.
Step 4
Place the pot on a pebble tray. Add water to cover the pebbles. The bottom of the pot should rest above the water level. As the water evaporates, it will provide your miniature rose with the added humidity it desires.
Step 5
Keep the soil moist, but avoid soggy soil. Allow the soil to dry slightly between waterings.
Step 6
Fertilize with a water-soluble fertilizer designed for roses. Mix the solution to quarter-strength and use to water the rose every seven to 10 days from March until November. Allow the plant to rest during the winter months and resume fertilizing in the spring.
Step 7
Deadhead spent blooms to encourage the rose bush to continue blooming. Removing the flowers before they can set seed; this tricks the plant into thinking it has not produced enough blooms.
Step 1
Plant miniature roses in all-purpose potting soil. Provide adequate drainage by covering the drainage holes with pebbles or broken shards from clay pots.
Step 2
Grow on a sunny windowsill. Some require supplemental lighting. Watch your roses for signs of inadequate light. If the stems stretch leaving bare spaces between leaves, it may be an indication that the rose bush is reaching for more light. A miniature rose should be short and compact with full foliage.
Step 3
Pinch out new growth to encourage the plant to bush out. This creates a full plant with abundant foliage. If the plant still stretches for light, you may need to add supplemental lighting. You can purchase grow lights for plants at your local hardware or garden supply store.
Step 4
Place the pot on a pebble tray. Add water to cover the pebbles. The bottom of the pot should rest above the water level. As the water evaporates, it will provide your miniature rose with the added humidity it desires.
Step 5
Keep the soil moist, but avoid soggy soil. Allow the soil to dry slightly between waterings.
Step 6
Fertilize with a water-soluble fertilizer designed for roses. Mix the solution to quarter-strength and use to water the rose every seven to 10 days from March until November. Allow the plant to rest during the winter months and resume fertilizing in the spring.
Step 7
Deadhead spent blooms to encourage the rose bush to continue blooming. Removing the flowers before they can set seed; this tricks the plant into thinking it has not produced enough blooms.
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文章
Miss Chen
2017年08月29日
Rose bushes (Rosa spp.) must be pruned at least once or twice each year. Heavy pruning is done in winter or, in some climates, early spring. Roses are hardy in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 2 through 11, depending on the species. Prune the roses again in summer or fall right after they bloom to tidy them up and encourage new cane growth. Roses that produce flowers in spring and again in fall bloom more profusely in fall when pruned right after their spring bloom cycle.
The Right Pruning Tool
Use sharp, scissor-type hand pruners to prune roses. Pour household disinfectant over the open hand pruner blades, and let it sit on them for a few minutes to sterilize them, preventing the spread of plant diseases. Rinse off the disinfectant with clear water, and dry the blades with a clean towel. Disinfectant can harm rose stem tissue.
Basics for All Roses
Deadhead, or remove, all remaining faded blooms. Do so by cutting each faded flower's stem ¼ inch above the first set of five leaflets. A flower stem cut higher than that point produces weak new stem growth that either will not have flowers or will have flowers that are smaller than normal.
Prune off all dead, diseased or crossing stems whenever you notice them throughout the growing season. Make each of those cuts at the base of a stem.
Make each pruning cut on a healthy rose cane or stem ¼ inch above a growth bud, which is usually where there are five leaflets. Also make each cut at a 45-degree angle parallel to the growth bud. Buds facing outward produce stems that grow away from the bush's center. Buds facing inward produce stems that grow toward the bush's center. Do not make a cut at too sharp of an angle or too close to the growth bud. A bud damaged by pruning does not grow a new stem.
Insect and Disease Protections
Seal the cut ends of stems that are wider than a pencil by using white household glue to keep out boring insects. Throw dead flowers and stem trimmings in the trash. Leaving them in the garden provides a growing environment for fungal and bacterial diseases that can infect rose bushes.
Shrub and Old Garden Roses
Shrub roses and antique or old garden roses should be trimmed to about two-thirds their heights when they finish blooming. This method is especially important for roses that bloom only once annually, in spring or summer. They bloom on "old wood," or stems that grew the previous year. Pruning them later in the growing season results in less stem growth and reduced blooming the following year.
Climbing Roses
Climbing roses should not be pruned until they are 2 to 3 years old. The stems that produce flowers on climbing roses are called lateral stems. After a climber finishes blooming, use hand pruners to cut each lateral stem ¼ inch above the second or third growth bud. Ever-blooming climbers need to have their old, woody canes completely removed. Those canes are 2 to 3 years old and brown or tan at their bases. Adjust the position of the remaining canes so they are spread evenly across the bushes' support structure. Once-blooming climbers and ramblers need to have their dead, weak or unproductive canes cut back to healthy, white tissue.
All Other Types of Roses
All other roses, including hybrid teas, should be trimmed only lightly after they bloom. Remove their spent blooms with disinfected hand pruners. Trim all their stems about only a few inches, just enough to give the bushes a neater appearance.
The Right Pruning Tool
Use sharp, scissor-type hand pruners to prune roses. Pour household disinfectant over the open hand pruner blades, and let it sit on them for a few minutes to sterilize them, preventing the spread of plant diseases. Rinse off the disinfectant with clear water, and dry the blades with a clean towel. Disinfectant can harm rose stem tissue.
Basics for All Roses
Deadhead, or remove, all remaining faded blooms. Do so by cutting each faded flower's stem ¼ inch above the first set of five leaflets. A flower stem cut higher than that point produces weak new stem growth that either will not have flowers or will have flowers that are smaller than normal.
Prune off all dead, diseased or crossing stems whenever you notice them throughout the growing season. Make each of those cuts at the base of a stem.
Make each pruning cut on a healthy rose cane or stem ¼ inch above a growth bud, which is usually where there are five leaflets. Also make each cut at a 45-degree angle parallel to the growth bud. Buds facing outward produce stems that grow away from the bush's center. Buds facing inward produce stems that grow toward the bush's center. Do not make a cut at too sharp of an angle or too close to the growth bud. A bud damaged by pruning does not grow a new stem.
Insect and Disease Protections
Seal the cut ends of stems that are wider than a pencil by using white household glue to keep out boring insects. Throw dead flowers and stem trimmings in the trash. Leaving them in the garden provides a growing environment for fungal and bacterial diseases that can infect rose bushes.
Shrub and Old Garden Roses
Shrub roses and antique or old garden roses should be trimmed to about two-thirds their heights when they finish blooming. This method is especially important for roses that bloom only once annually, in spring or summer. They bloom on "old wood," or stems that grew the previous year. Pruning them later in the growing season results in less stem growth and reduced blooming the following year.
Climbing Roses
Climbing roses should not be pruned until they are 2 to 3 years old. The stems that produce flowers on climbing roses are called lateral stems. After a climber finishes blooming, use hand pruners to cut each lateral stem ¼ inch above the second or third growth bud. Ever-blooming climbers need to have their old, woody canes completely removed. Those canes are 2 to 3 years old and brown or tan at their bases. Adjust the position of the remaining canes so they are spread evenly across the bushes' support structure. Once-blooming climbers and ramblers need to have their dead, weak or unproductive canes cut back to healthy, white tissue.
All Other Types of Roses
All other roses, including hybrid teas, should be trimmed only lightly after they bloom. Remove their spent blooms with disinfected hand pruners. Trim all their stems about only a few inches, just enough to give the bushes a neater appearance.
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