文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月28日
There are few more colorful and diverse plants than coleus. Coleus plants do not withstand freezing temperatures but cool, shorter days do spur an interesting development in these foliage plants. Do coleus plants have flowers? Coleus plant flowering begins as a signal that winter is coming and the plant should produce seed to continue its genetic dynasty. Flowering often leads to a rangy plant, however, so it is best to learn what to do with coleus blooms if you want to keep a compact, thickly leafed plant.
Do Coleus Plants Have Flowers?
Many gardeners are charmed by the spikes of tiny blue or white flowers produced on coleus at the end of the season. These little blooms make a charming cut flower or may be left to enhance the beauty of the plant. Once a coleus has flower spikes, though, it may become leggy and develop a less attractive form. You can stop this in its tracks with a little word of advice or enjoy the new display made by the energetic blooms – whatever you prefer.
Coleus are often thought of as shady foliage specimens that brighten up the dark corners of the garden. While this is somewhat true, the plants can also grow in full sun with some protection from noontime searing rays. The age of the plant and stress can contribute to the formation of blooms on your coleus.
Stress can come in the form of excess heat, dry conditions and late season cold nights. The plant knows it will die if continued exposure to unfavorable conditions continues, so it blooms to produce seed. Coleus plant flowering signals the end of the plant’s life cycle, and plants usually die soon after they are allowed to produce blooms. Flowers are attractive to bees and butterflies and occasionally hummingbirds and add a significant color punch to the plant in hues of blue, white or lavender. You can just leave them on and enjoy the plant as an annual or take steps to encourage thicker growth and continued life in a greenhouse or cold frame.
What to Do With Coleus Blooms
What you do with the flower spikes is up to you. Leaving the flowers tends to cause less foliar development and leggier stems, probably because the plant is directing its energy to flower formation. You can pinch off the spikes just as they are forming and redirect that energy back into leaf formation while helping create a more compact, thick form. Trim the stem back to the first growth node before the spike forms. Use scissors, pruners or just pinch off the growth on slender stems. Over time, new leaves will sprout from the cut area and fill in the space left by the spike. Alternately, you can let the blooms grow and produce seeds. If a coleus plant has flower spikes, simply wait until the petals fall off and a small fruit is formed. Seeds are tiny and will show themselves when the capsule or fruit splits. Save these in a plastic bag until you are ready to plant them. Coleus plants are easy to start from seed, either indoors or outside when temperatures are at least 65 degrees Fahrenheit (18 C.).
Sowing Coleus Seeds
Coleus may be started with cuttings or seeds. If you saved your seeds, you can plant them at any time if growing them indoors. If you intend to use them outside, wait until soil temperatures have warmed up and all danger of frost has passed, or sow them indoors in flats 10 weeks before the date of your last frost. Sow the seed into moistened sterile medium in flats. Cover the tiny seeds with a fine sifting of the medium. Cover the tray with a plastic lid and keep moist in a warm location until sprouting occurs.
Thin the seedlings and transplant them to larger pots when they have two sets of true leaves. Grow them on in containers indoors until outdoor temperatures are at least 65 degrees Fahrenheit (18 C.) and then gradually harden them off before transplanting them to containers or prepared garden beds. In this way, the flower spikes can adorn the plants for added appeal and provide a new generation of the plants for years to come.
Do Coleus Plants Have Flowers?
Many gardeners are charmed by the spikes of tiny blue or white flowers produced on coleus at the end of the season. These little blooms make a charming cut flower or may be left to enhance the beauty of the plant. Once a coleus has flower spikes, though, it may become leggy and develop a less attractive form. You can stop this in its tracks with a little word of advice or enjoy the new display made by the energetic blooms – whatever you prefer.
Coleus are often thought of as shady foliage specimens that brighten up the dark corners of the garden. While this is somewhat true, the plants can also grow in full sun with some protection from noontime searing rays. The age of the plant and stress can contribute to the formation of blooms on your coleus.
Stress can come in the form of excess heat, dry conditions and late season cold nights. The plant knows it will die if continued exposure to unfavorable conditions continues, so it blooms to produce seed. Coleus plant flowering signals the end of the plant’s life cycle, and plants usually die soon after they are allowed to produce blooms. Flowers are attractive to bees and butterflies and occasionally hummingbirds and add a significant color punch to the plant in hues of blue, white or lavender. You can just leave them on and enjoy the plant as an annual or take steps to encourage thicker growth and continued life in a greenhouse or cold frame.
What to Do With Coleus Blooms
What you do with the flower spikes is up to you. Leaving the flowers tends to cause less foliar development and leggier stems, probably because the plant is directing its energy to flower formation. You can pinch off the spikes just as they are forming and redirect that energy back into leaf formation while helping create a more compact, thick form. Trim the stem back to the first growth node before the spike forms. Use scissors, pruners or just pinch off the growth on slender stems. Over time, new leaves will sprout from the cut area and fill in the space left by the spike. Alternately, you can let the blooms grow and produce seeds. If a coleus plant has flower spikes, simply wait until the petals fall off and a small fruit is formed. Seeds are tiny and will show themselves when the capsule or fruit splits. Save these in a plastic bag until you are ready to plant them. Coleus plants are easy to start from seed, either indoors or outside when temperatures are at least 65 degrees Fahrenheit (18 C.).
Sowing Coleus Seeds
Coleus may be started with cuttings or seeds. If you saved your seeds, you can plant them at any time if growing them indoors. If you intend to use them outside, wait until soil temperatures have warmed up and all danger of frost has passed, or sow them indoors in flats 10 weeks before the date of your last frost. Sow the seed into moistened sterile medium in flats. Cover the tiny seeds with a fine sifting of the medium. Cover the tray with a plastic lid and keep moist in a warm location until sprouting occurs.
Thin the seedlings and transplant them to larger pots when they have two sets of true leaves. Grow them on in containers indoors until outdoor temperatures are at least 65 degrees Fahrenheit (18 C.) and then gradually harden them off before transplanting them to containers or prepared garden beds. In this way, the flower spikes can adorn the plants for added appeal and provide a new generation of the plants for years to come.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月28日
Coleus is a fantastic plant for adding color to your garden or house. A member of the mint family, it’s not known for its flowers, but for its beautiful and vibrantly colored leaves. On top of that, it’s extremely well suited to growing in containers. But how do you grow coleus in pots? Keep reading to learn about potted coleus care and how to grow coleus in containers.
Caring for Coleus in Containers
Growing coleus in a pot is an ideal way to keep it. It won’t grow larger than the container it’s in, but if moved to a bigger container, it will fill it out, reaching as high as 2 feet tall. Since they will stay compact if need be, coleus in pots pair well with other plants. You can plant them as shorter ground cover in large pots featuring a tree or tall shrub, or you can plant them as the main tall attraction surrounded by other trailing plants around the outside edge. They also work very well in hanging baskets, particularly the trailing varieties.
How to Grow Coleus in Pots
To keep your coleus in pots from getting gangly, pinch back the new growth. Simply pinch back the very ends of the stems with your fingers – this will encourage new shoots to branch out on the sides, making for an overall bushier plant. Plant your coleus in a sturdy container that won’t tip over if it does get to be 2 feet tall. Fill your container with well-draining soil and fertilize moderately. Be careful not to over fertilize, though, or your coleus in pots may lose their brilliant color. Water regularly, keeping the soil moist.
Keep them out of the wind to avoid breakage. Coleus will not survive a frost, so either treat your plant as an annual or move it inside when temperatures begin to drop.
Caring for Coleus in Containers
Growing coleus in a pot is an ideal way to keep it. It won’t grow larger than the container it’s in, but if moved to a bigger container, it will fill it out, reaching as high as 2 feet tall. Since they will stay compact if need be, coleus in pots pair well with other plants. You can plant them as shorter ground cover in large pots featuring a tree or tall shrub, or you can plant them as the main tall attraction surrounded by other trailing plants around the outside edge. They also work very well in hanging baskets, particularly the trailing varieties.
How to Grow Coleus in Pots
To keep your coleus in pots from getting gangly, pinch back the new growth. Simply pinch back the very ends of the stems with your fingers – this will encourage new shoots to branch out on the sides, making for an overall bushier plant. Plant your coleus in a sturdy container that won’t tip over if it does get to be 2 feet tall. Fill your container with well-draining soil and fertilize moderately. Be careful not to over fertilize, though, or your coleus in pots may lose their brilliant color. Water regularly, keeping the soil moist.
Keep them out of the wind to avoid breakage. Coleus will not survive a frost, so either treat your plant as an annual or move it inside when temperatures begin to drop.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月27日
Perennial blue eyed grass wildflower is a member of the Iris family, but it is not a grass at all. It is native to North America and forms clumps of slender long foliage topped in spring with small periwinkle flowers. The plant is a bright addition to any location in the garden. Almost any garden soil is where to plant blue eyed grass and it will attract bees and feed wild birds throughout the years.
What is Blue Eyed Grass?
The gardener looking for a substitute for iris or other bulb flowers should explore the blue-eyed grass plant (Sisyrinchium spp.). So what is blue eyed grass and is it a suitable plant for the garden? This plant is clumping and can get 4 to 16 inches tall and equally wide. Blue eyed grass wildflower grows from hardy rhizomes that send out tall, blade-like foliage, much like grass blades and this is where the “grass” in its name derives.
The nearly foot tall foliage bears wiry stems topped with the brilliant blue flowers but may also be white or violet and have a yellow “eye” in the center. This yellow corolla earns the plant its colorful name. USDA zones 4 to 9 are suitable locations for growing blue eyed grass. Blue eyed grass wildflower is useful in rock gardens, borders, containers and as part of a wildflower meadow. Growing blue eyed grass is an excellent way to introduce native plant life to your garden. This promotes natural landscaping and helps wild animals with food and nesting materials.
Where to Plant Blue Eyed Grass
Knowing where to plant blue eyed grass is important for its overall health. So when growing blue eyed grass, choose a partially sunny location. While the plant can grow in full sun, it performs best in low light situations. It is tolerant of any soil pH as long as it drains well. Blue eyed grass will thrive in moist to average garden soil. The plant is easy to propagate by dividing plantlets away from the parent plant. Break off or cut the rhizomes away from the main plant, including the slender foliage of the young plants that form at the base. Plant them as individual specimens for increased spring beauty. The clump will get large year by year but you can dig it up and cut it into sections for new plants. Divide the plant in late winter every two to three years, and you will have a scattering of the pretty flowers across the landscape. In addition to propagation by division, the flowers will produce seed in spring. Seeds spread easily in gardens with adequate moisture.
Blue Eyed Grass Care
Growing blue eyed grass care isn’t difficult. Allow the leaves to remain on the plant after the blooms fade in summer. This gives the foliage time to gather energy to store in the rhizomes for the following season’s bloom. After they turn brown, cut them back to just above the crown. Mulch around the plants with organic material to provide nutrients and help protect the plants during freezing temperatures. In zones below 4 or where hard freezes last all winter, dig up the plant in fall and pot up in garden soil. Move the plant to a low light location where temperatures are above freezing. When soils are workable, replant in spring and enjoy blue eyed grass wildflowers until summer.
What is Blue Eyed Grass?
The gardener looking for a substitute for iris or other bulb flowers should explore the blue-eyed grass plant (Sisyrinchium spp.). So what is blue eyed grass and is it a suitable plant for the garden? This plant is clumping and can get 4 to 16 inches tall and equally wide. Blue eyed grass wildflower grows from hardy rhizomes that send out tall, blade-like foliage, much like grass blades and this is where the “grass” in its name derives.
The nearly foot tall foliage bears wiry stems topped with the brilliant blue flowers but may also be white or violet and have a yellow “eye” in the center. This yellow corolla earns the plant its colorful name. USDA zones 4 to 9 are suitable locations for growing blue eyed grass. Blue eyed grass wildflower is useful in rock gardens, borders, containers and as part of a wildflower meadow. Growing blue eyed grass is an excellent way to introduce native plant life to your garden. This promotes natural landscaping and helps wild animals with food and nesting materials.
Where to Plant Blue Eyed Grass
Knowing where to plant blue eyed grass is important for its overall health. So when growing blue eyed grass, choose a partially sunny location. While the plant can grow in full sun, it performs best in low light situations. It is tolerant of any soil pH as long as it drains well. Blue eyed grass will thrive in moist to average garden soil. The plant is easy to propagate by dividing plantlets away from the parent plant. Break off or cut the rhizomes away from the main plant, including the slender foliage of the young plants that form at the base. Plant them as individual specimens for increased spring beauty. The clump will get large year by year but you can dig it up and cut it into sections for new plants. Divide the plant in late winter every two to three years, and you will have a scattering of the pretty flowers across the landscape. In addition to propagation by division, the flowers will produce seed in spring. Seeds spread easily in gardens with adequate moisture.
Blue Eyed Grass Care
Growing blue eyed grass care isn’t difficult. Allow the leaves to remain on the plant after the blooms fade in summer. This gives the foliage time to gather energy to store in the rhizomes for the following season’s bloom. After they turn brown, cut them back to just above the crown. Mulch around the plants with organic material to provide nutrients and help protect the plants during freezing temperatures. In zones below 4 or where hard freezes last all winter, dig up the plant in fall and pot up in garden soil. Move the plant to a low light location where temperatures are above freezing. When soils are workable, replant in spring and enjoy blue eyed grass wildflowers until summer.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月27日
For glossy, bright red foliage, you can’t beat the Iresine bloodleaf plant. Unless you live in a frost-free climate, you’ll have to grow this tender perennial as an annual or bring it indoors at the end of the season. It also makes a lovely houseplant.
Iresine Plant Info
Bloodleaf (Iresine herbstii) is also called chicken-gizzard, beefsteak plant, or Formosa bloodleaf. Iresine bloodleaf plants are native to Brazil where they thrive in warm temperatures and bright sunlight. In their native environment, the plants reach heights of up to 5 feet with a spread of 3 feet, but when grown as annuals or potted plants they only grow 12 to 18 inches tall.
The red leaves are often variegated with green and white markings, and add contrast to beds and borders. They occasionally produce small, greenish-white flowers, but they are not ornamental, and most growers simply pinch them off. Here are two exceptional cultivars to watch for: ‘Brilliantissima’ has bright red leaves with pink veins. ‘Aureoreticulata’ has green leaves with yellow veins.
Growing Bloodleaf Plants
Bloodleaf plants enjoy high heat and humidity, and you can grow them outdoors year round in USDA plant hardiness zones 10 and 11. Plant in a location with full sun or partial shade and organically rich soil that drains freely. Growing bloodleaf in full sun results in better color. Amend the bed with compost or aged manure before planting, unless your soil is exceptionally high in organic matter. Set out the plants in spring after all danger of frost has passed and the soil stays warm both day and night. Keep the soil evenly moist all summer by watering deeply every week in the absence of rain. Use a 2- to 3-inch layer of organic mulch to help prevent the moisture from evaporating. Reduce the moisture in fall and winter if you are growing bloodleaf plants as perennials. Pinch out the growth tips while the plants are young to promote a dense growth habit and attractive shape. You might also consider pinching off flower buds. The flowers aren’t particularly attractive, and supporting flowers depletes energy that would otherwise go toward growing dense foliage. Plants grown in less than ideal conditions rarely flower.
Indoor Care of Bloodleaf Plants
Whether you are growing bloodleaf as a houseplant or bringing it indoors for winter, pot it up in a loamy, soil-based potting mixture. Place the plant near a bright, preferably south-facing window. If it becomes leggy, then it probably isn’t getting enough light. Keep the potting mix moist in spring and summer by watering when the soil feels dry at a depth of about an inch. Add water until it runs from the drainage holes in the bottom of the pot. About 20 minutes after watering, empty the saucer under the pot so the roots aren’t left sitting in water. Bloodleaf plants need less water in fall and winter, but you should never allow the soil to dry out.
Iresine Plant Info
Bloodleaf (Iresine herbstii) is also called chicken-gizzard, beefsteak plant, or Formosa bloodleaf. Iresine bloodleaf plants are native to Brazil where they thrive in warm temperatures and bright sunlight. In their native environment, the plants reach heights of up to 5 feet with a spread of 3 feet, but when grown as annuals or potted plants they only grow 12 to 18 inches tall.
The red leaves are often variegated with green and white markings, and add contrast to beds and borders. They occasionally produce small, greenish-white flowers, but they are not ornamental, and most growers simply pinch them off. Here are two exceptional cultivars to watch for: ‘Brilliantissima’ has bright red leaves with pink veins. ‘Aureoreticulata’ has green leaves with yellow veins.
Growing Bloodleaf Plants
Bloodleaf plants enjoy high heat and humidity, and you can grow them outdoors year round in USDA plant hardiness zones 10 and 11. Plant in a location with full sun or partial shade and organically rich soil that drains freely. Growing bloodleaf in full sun results in better color. Amend the bed with compost or aged manure before planting, unless your soil is exceptionally high in organic matter. Set out the plants in spring after all danger of frost has passed and the soil stays warm both day and night. Keep the soil evenly moist all summer by watering deeply every week in the absence of rain. Use a 2- to 3-inch layer of organic mulch to help prevent the moisture from evaporating. Reduce the moisture in fall and winter if you are growing bloodleaf plants as perennials. Pinch out the growth tips while the plants are young to promote a dense growth habit and attractive shape. You might also consider pinching off flower buds. The flowers aren’t particularly attractive, and supporting flowers depletes energy that would otherwise go toward growing dense foliage. Plants grown in less than ideal conditions rarely flower.
Indoor Care of Bloodleaf Plants
Whether you are growing bloodleaf as a houseplant or bringing it indoors for winter, pot it up in a loamy, soil-based potting mixture. Place the plant near a bright, preferably south-facing window. If it becomes leggy, then it probably isn’t getting enough light. Keep the potting mix moist in spring and summer by watering when the soil feels dry at a depth of about an inch. Add water until it runs from the drainage holes in the bottom of the pot. About 20 minutes after watering, empty the saucer under the pot so the roots aren’t left sitting in water. Bloodleaf plants need less water in fall and winter, but you should never allow the soil to dry out.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月27日
If you have been on a nature hike in Eastern North America, you have likely come across bladder fern plants. The bulblet bladder fern is a native plant found in shaded cliffs and dry, rocky slopes. Growing bladder ferns in the landscape lends an air of the wild to a naturalized garden. Plus, these little ferns are easy to care for and grow in full to partial shade areas of the garden that are often difficult to populate with many choice plants.
Bladder Fern Information
Bulblet bladder fern (Cystopteris bulbifera) is named for the tiny green bladder-like structures on the underside of some leaves. These are potential reproductive structures that eventually fall off and produce new ferns. The fern is a rock-loving species found in limestone or sandstone formations. As part of the home garden, they add lacy-leaved elegance and low maintenance greenery to the shadier spots in the landscape.
Bladder fern plants reproduce semi-vegetatively but also develop spores which fuel the development of the bulblets. These are found on the underside of leaves on the stem which divide the leaflets, or pinnae. Bulblets are bright green, semi-glossy and start out as tiny balls, developing into kidney shaped pre-leaves. When mature, these bulblets fall off the parent plant and can become new ferns in the correct conditions. Dividing the spreading rootstock is another way of growing bladder ferns. To add to bladder fern information, a single adult frond can produce more than 50 bulblets, indicating the ease of spread of this little plant. As a result, bladder ferns make excellent ground cover over time, increasing their numbers in just a few seasons exponentially.
Conditions for Growing Bladder Ferns
Bladder ferns prefer moist soil in dappled areas. The plants are often found in tree lined outcrops and cliff sides. The leaves are deciduous and spread by prolific rhizomes. They can thrive in sandy, clay or loam soil but requires good drainage. The ferns are also adaptable to any pH soil. Healthy plants need a thin layer of organic material, which in nature casually filters into the crevasses the plant prefers to grow into and slowly breaks down to release nutrients. In the home landscape, a little bit of well-rotted compost added to the planting hole will increase plant health. Always plant ferns at the depth in which they were installed in their nursery container. A note about acquisition of the plants: Do not harvest these or any other plant from the wild, as such activities can disrupt the careful balance of nature and potentially harm existing populations. Be sure to obtain plants from a reputable nursery that specializes in them.
Bladder Fern Care
Bladder fern is a low maintenance plant if situated in conditions it prefers. Low to medium light conditions favor the plant. In fall, when cold temperatures arrive, the leaves will begin to die back. Leave the dead foliage on the plant, if possible, over winter to form a type of protective canopy over the core. In late winter to early spring, cut off the dead leaves to make way for new leaflets. There is no need to fertilize this fern but, in fall, spread compost around the base of the plant to gradually break down and feed the roots. Bladder fern care is minimal and the plant is fast growing, spreading quickly. In the garden, the plant will make a lush green ground cover from spring to fall.
Bladder Fern Information
Bulblet bladder fern (Cystopteris bulbifera) is named for the tiny green bladder-like structures on the underside of some leaves. These are potential reproductive structures that eventually fall off and produce new ferns. The fern is a rock-loving species found in limestone or sandstone formations. As part of the home garden, they add lacy-leaved elegance and low maintenance greenery to the shadier spots in the landscape.
Bladder fern plants reproduce semi-vegetatively but also develop spores which fuel the development of the bulblets. These are found on the underside of leaves on the stem which divide the leaflets, or pinnae. Bulblets are bright green, semi-glossy and start out as tiny balls, developing into kidney shaped pre-leaves. When mature, these bulblets fall off the parent plant and can become new ferns in the correct conditions. Dividing the spreading rootstock is another way of growing bladder ferns. To add to bladder fern information, a single adult frond can produce more than 50 bulblets, indicating the ease of spread of this little plant. As a result, bladder ferns make excellent ground cover over time, increasing their numbers in just a few seasons exponentially.
Conditions for Growing Bladder Ferns
Bladder ferns prefer moist soil in dappled areas. The plants are often found in tree lined outcrops and cliff sides. The leaves are deciduous and spread by prolific rhizomes. They can thrive in sandy, clay or loam soil but requires good drainage. The ferns are also adaptable to any pH soil. Healthy plants need a thin layer of organic material, which in nature casually filters into the crevasses the plant prefers to grow into and slowly breaks down to release nutrients. In the home landscape, a little bit of well-rotted compost added to the planting hole will increase plant health. Always plant ferns at the depth in which they were installed in their nursery container. A note about acquisition of the plants: Do not harvest these or any other plant from the wild, as such activities can disrupt the careful balance of nature and potentially harm existing populations. Be sure to obtain plants from a reputable nursery that specializes in them.
Bladder Fern Care
Bladder fern is a low maintenance plant if situated in conditions it prefers. Low to medium light conditions favor the plant. In fall, when cold temperatures arrive, the leaves will begin to die back. Leave the dead foliage on the plant, if possible, over winter to form a type of protective canopy over the core. In late winter to early spring, cut off the dead leaves to make way for new leaflets. There is no need to fertilize this fern but, in fall, spread compost around the base of the plant to gradually break down and feed the roots. Bladder fern care is minimal and the plant is fast growing, spreading quickly. In the garden, the plant will make a lush green ground cover from spring to fall.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月27日
A healthy stand of bamboo is surprisingly resistant to pests and diseases. Even so, you may occasionally notice spots and discolorations that indicate problems. This article has the answer to common bamboo plant problems.
Preventing Bamboo Diseases
It’s easier to prevent bamboo plant diseases than to cure them once they take hold. Good growing conditions promote healthy plants that resist diseases. Here’s what a bamboo plant needs to thrive: Good water management is essential. The plants need a steady supply of moisture, but at the same time, the soil should drain well so that it doesn’t stay soggy for long. Organically rich soils help regulate moisture. A location with plenty of bright sunlight promotes good health and vigor. Proper nutrition helps keep plants green and growing. A bamboo fertilizer is best, but not always available. Palm fertilizers also work well, and in a pinch you can use a lawn fertilizer. Be careful that you don’t use a weed and feed product that contains herbicides. Some diseases in bamboo plants are spread primarily through nurseries that sell diseased plants. Make sure you buy your plants from a reputable nursery, and ask if the plants have been tested for disease.
Treating Bamboo Problems
Before you can treat bamboo diseases, you have to identify the problem. Fortunately, there aren’t many diseases that affect bamboo, and they are easily distinguished. If the bamboo disease treatment calls for pruning, disinfect the pruning shears between cuts by flaming the blades so that you don’t spread the disease. Fungal spots – Fungal spots, like rust, sometimes appear on older plants. The spots are round and mostly cosmetic. They appear most often in humid climates. You can treat the disease with a copper-based fungicide, but since the plants that have spots are old, consider culling them to make room for younger, more vigorous plants. Bamboo Mosaic Virus – this virus is usually acquired in a nursery setting where it is transmitted on the blades of pruning tools. The first symptom is a mosaic discoloration pattern on the leaves. You will eventually see dieback beginning at the top of the plant. There is no cure for the disease, but you may be able to keep the plants alive for a while with aggressive pruning. Remember to sterilize pruners between cuts. Sooty mold – Sooty mold is caused by small, sucking insects such as mealybugs, aphids and scale insects. As these insects feed, they excrete a sticky substance called honeydew. The honeydew quickly becomes infested with the sooty mold fungus, causing unsightly black spots. You can wash it off the plant, but as long as you have an insect infestation, it returns repeatedly. Get rid of the insects with frequent applications of insecticidal soaps or oils. Follow the label instructions, and apply as often as the instructions allow until the insects are gone. With oils, it is important to follow the timing guidelines on the label. Rot issues – Root rots and heart rots also affect bamboo. Heart rot is a fungus living inside the stems and can occur in any part of the stem. Root rot affects the roots and lower part of the stem. Either type of rot may be accompanied by mushrooms growing on the bamboo or on the soil at the base of the plant. These diseases can’t be cured and will eventually kill the plant. Remove the plants, taking care to remove all of the roots to prevent the spread of the disease to other plants.
Preventing Bamboo Diseases
It’s easier to prevent bamboo plant diseases than to cure them once they take hold. Good growing conditions promote healthy plants that resist diseases. Here’s what a bamboo plant needs to thrive: Good water management is essential. The plants need a steady supply of moisture, but at the same time, the soil should drain well so that it doesn’t stay soggy for long. Organically rich soils help regulate moisture. A location with plenty of bright sunlight promotes good health and vigor. Proper nutrition helps keep plants green and growing. A bamboo fertilizer is best, but not always available. Palm fertilizers also work well, and in a pinch you can use a lawn fertilizer. Be careful that you don’t use a weed and feed product that contains herbicides. Some diseases in bamboo plants are spread primarily through nurseries that sell diseased plants. Make sure you buy your plants from a reputable nursery, and ask if the plants have been tested for disease.
Treating Bamboo Problems
Before you can treat bamboo diseases, you have to identify the problem. Fortunately, there aren’t many diseases that affect bamboo, and they are easily distinguished. If the bamboo disease treatment calls for pruning, disinfect the pruning shears between cuts by flaming the blades so that you don’t spread the disease. Fungal spots – Fungal spots, like rust, sometimes appear on older plants. The spots are round and mostly cosmetic. They appear most often in humid climates. You can treat the disease with a copper-based fungicide, but since the plants that have spots are old, consider culling them to make room for younger, more vigorous plants. Bamboo Mosaic Virus – this virus is usually acquired in a nursery setting where it is transmitted on the blades of pruning tools. The first symptom is a mosaic discoloration pattern on the leaves. You will eventually see dieback beginning at the top of the plant. There is no cure for the disease, but you may be able to keep the plants alive for a while with aggressive pruning. Remember to sterilize pruners between cuts. Sooty mold – Sooty mold is caused by small, sucking insects such as mealybugs, aphids and scale insects. As these insects feed, they excrete a sticky substance called honeydew. The honeydew quickly becomes infested with the sooty mold fungus, causing unsightly black spots. You can wash it off the plant, but as long as you have an insect infestation, it returns repeatedly. Get rid of the insects with frequent applications of insecticidal soaps or oils. Follow the label instructions, and apply as often as the instructions allow until the insects are gone. With oils, it is important to follow the timing guidelines on the label. Rot issues – Root rots and heart rots also affect bamboo. Heart rot is a fungus living inside the stems and can occur in any part of the stem. Root rot affects the roots and lower part of the stem. Either type of rot may be accompanied by mushrooms growing on the bamboo or on the soil at the base of the plant. These diseases can’t be cured and will eventually kill the plant. Remove the plants, taking care to remove all of the roots to prevent the spread of the disease to other plants.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月27日
Bamboo has a reputation for being invasive and hard to control, and because of this, gardeners tend to shy away from it. This reputation isn’t unfounded, and you shouldn’t plant bamboo without first doing some research. If you plan accordingly and pay attention to what variety you’re planting, however, bamboo can be a great addition to your garden. Keep reading to learn about different varieties of bamboo.
Bamboo Plant Types
Bamboo can be split into two general types: running and clumping.
Clumping bamboo grows just as the name suggests – in a big clump of grass that mainly grows up and stays put where you’ve planted it. This is the recommended type if you want a well-behaved bamboo stand in your garden that you don’t have to worry about spreading. Running bamboo, on the other hand, will spread like crazy if not kept in check. It propagates by sending out underground runners, called rhizomes, which send up new shoots elsewhere. These rhizomes can travel more than 100 feet before sprouting, meaning your new bamboo patch may suddenly become your neighbor’s new bamboo patch as well. And then their neighbor’s. Because of this, you should not plant running bamboo unless you know how to contain it and are willing to keep an eye on it. You can achieve a containing effect underground by surrounding the bamboo with metal sheeting, concrete, or a store-bought root barrier, buried a minimum of 2 feet below ground and extending a minimum of 4 inches above ground. Bamboo roots are surprisingly shallow, and this should stop any runners. You should still check on the bamboo regularly, though, to make sure no rhizomes have escaped. Planting your bamboo in a large above-ground container that does not rest on soil is a more foolproof option.
Common Bamboo Varieties
Bamboo is an evergreen grass that has different cold tolerances for different types of bamboo. The varieties of bamboo you can plant outdoors will be dictated by the coldest temperature your area reaches in winter.
Cold-hardy types
Three running bamboo varieties that are very cold hardy include: Golden Grove Black bamboo Kuma bamboo Two cold hardy clumping bamboo plant types are: Chinese Mountain Umbrella bamboo The warmer your climate, the more your options you have for different types of bamboo.
Warm climate types
Clumping bamboo varieties: Chinese Goddess Hedge bamboo Fernleaf Silverstripe Running types include: Black bamboo Red Margin Golden Golden Giant Japanese Timber
Bamboo Plant Types
Bamboo can be split into two general types: running and clumping.
Clumping bamboo grows just as the name suggests – in a big clump of grass that mainly grows up and stays put where you’ve planted it. This is the recommended type if you want a well-behaved bamboo stand in your garden that you don’t have to worry about spreading. Running bamboo, on the other hand, will spread like crazy if not kept in check. It propagates by sending out underground runners, called rhizomes, which send up new shoots elsewhere. These rhizomes can travel more than 100 feet before sprouting, meaning your new bamboo patch may suddenly become your neighbor’s new bamboo patch as well. And then their neighbor’s. Because of this, you should not plant running bamboo unless you know how to contain it and are willing to keep an eye on it. You can achieve a containing effect underground by surrounding the bamboo with metal sheeting, concrete, or a store-bought root barrier, buried a minimum of 2 feet below ground and extending a minimum of 4 inches above ground. Bamboo roots are surprisingly shallow, and this should stop any runners. You should still check on the bamboo regularly, though, to make sure no rhizomes have escaped. Planting your bamboo in a large above-ground container that does not rest on soil is a more foolproof option.
Common Bamboo Varieties
Bamboo is an evergreen grass that has different cold tolerances for different types of bamboo. The varieties of bamboo you can plant outdoors will be dictated by the coldest temperature your area reaches in winter.
Cold-hardy types
Three running bamboo varieties that are very cold hardy include: Golden Grove Black bamboo Kuma bamboo Two cold hardy clumping bamboo plant types are: Chinese Mountain Umbrella bamboo The warmer your climate, the more your options you have for different types of bamboo.
Warm climate types
Clumping bamboo varieties: Chinese Goddess Hedge bamboo Fernleaf Silverstripe Running types include: Black bamboo Red Margin Golden Golden Giant Japanese Timber
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月27日
My bamboo is turning brown; is that normal? The answer is – maybe, or maybe not! If you’re noticing your bamboo plant tips are brown, it’s time to do some troubleshooting to determine the cause. Read on to determine possible reasons for a browning bamboo plant.
Causes for a Browning Bamboo Plant
Insect pests are often to blame for a bamboo with brown tips, and the most likely culprits are sap-sucking insects such as mites, mealybugs, scale or aphids. Mites – These miniscule pests, which are difficult to see with the naked eye, are especially common during dry weather when bamboo leaves are dusty. If you suspect mites, look for tiny specks and fine webbing on the leaves. Aphids – One of the most common sap-sucking pests, tiny aphids can do a lot of damage when left unchecked. Although aphids are usually green, they may also be tan, brown, red, yellow, grey or even black. Aphids excrete generous quantities of honeydew, which attracts hordes of ants. The sticky substance can also invite sooty mold. Scale – Scale are tiny, sap-sucking insects recognized by their waxy, brown or tan shell-like covering. Like aphids, many types of scale create honeydew that, in turn, draws ants and sooty mold to the bamboo plant. Mealybugs – These common bamboo pests are easy to spot by their whitish, cottony protective covering. Again, ants and sooty mold may result with an infestation of mealybugs. Most sap-sucking insects are relatively easy to control by spraying the plants with insecticidal soap or neem oil. If the infestation is light, a strong blast of water with a spray nozzle may be enough to knock them off the leaves. Chemical insecticides generally aren’t necessary and tend to do much more harm than good as the toxins kill bees, ladybugs, and other beneficial insects. Cultural or environmental conditions can also lead to browning on bamboo plants. Heat – Too much heat or direct sunlight may be the reason for a browning bamboo plant, as most bamboo varieties prefer shade or partial sunlight. Water – Both under- and over-watering can cause a bamboo with brown tips. A new bamboo plant benefits from watering once or twice a week until the plant reaches the three- to six-month mark. After that time, in-ground plants usually require no supplemental irrigation. When it comes to potted bamboo, slightly on the dry side is always preferable to wet, soggy soil. A mature bamboo plant will let you know when it’s thirsty; don’t water the plant until the leaves begin to curl. Fertilizer – Be careful about using too much fertilizer, which may be responsible if bamboo plant tips are brown. Even natural fertilizer, such as fish emulsion, may contain salts that can burn bamboo leaves. Winter Damage – Most bamboo varieties tolerate winters in climates as far north as USDA planting zone 5. However, chilly weather can burn the leaves of many types of bamboo. Some of the leaves may even drop from the plant, but they’ll soon be replaced by new leaves.
Care of a Browning Bamboo
Once you‘ve resolved the reason for a browning bamboo plant, the plant should rebound nicely. However, it’s a good idea to trim the browned leaves or tips with a clean, sharp pair of scissors. Cut the leaves at an angle to create a more natural appearance. If the leaves are completely brown, just pull them gently from the plant.
Causes for a Browning Bamboo Plant
Insect pests are often to blame for a bamboo with brown tips, and the most likely culprits are sap-sucking insects such as mites, mealybugs, scale or aphids. Mites – These miniscule pests, which are difficult to see with the naked eye, are especially common during dry weather when bamboo leaves are dusty. If you suspect mites, look for tiny specks and fine webbing on the leaves. Aphids – One of the most common sap-sucking pests, tiny aphids can do a lot of damage when left unchecked. Although aphids are usually green, they may also be tan, brown, red, yellow, grey or even black. Aphids excrete generous quantities of honeydew, which attracts hordes of ants. The sticky substance can also invite sooty mold. Scale – Scale are tiny, sap-sucking insects recognized by their waxy, brown or tan shell-like covering. Like aphids, many types of scale create honeydew that, in turn, draws ants and sooty mold to the bamboo plant. Mealybugs – These common bamboo pests are easy to spot by their whitish, cottony protective covering. Again, ants and sooty mold may result with an infestation of mealybugs. Most sap-sucking insects are relatively easy to control by spraying the plants with insecticidal soap or neem oil. If the infestation is light, a strong blast of water with a spray nozzle may be enough to knock them off the leaves. Chemical insecticides generally aren’t necessary and tend to do much more harm than good as the toxins kill bees, ladybugs, and other beneficial insects. Cultural or environmental conditions can also lead to browning on bamboo plants. Heat – Too much heat or direct sunlight may be the reason for a browning bamboo plant, as most bamboo varieties prefer shade or partial sunlight. Water – Both under- and over-watering can cause a bamboo with brown tips. A new bamboo plant benefits from watering once or twice a week until the plant reaches the three- to six-month mark. After that time, in-ground plants usually require no supplemental irrigation. When it comes to potted bamboo, slightly on the dry side is always preferable to wet, soggy soil. A mature bamboo plant will let you know when it’s thirsty; don’t water the plant until the leaves begin to curl. Fertilizer – Be careful about using too much fertilizer, which may be responsible if bamboo plant tips are brown. Even natural fertilizer, such as fish emulsion, may contain salts that can burn bamboo leaves. Winter Damage – Most bamboo varieties tolerate winters in climates as far north as USDA planting zone 5. However, chilly weather can burn the leaves of many types of bamboo. Some of the leaves may even drop from the plant, but they’ll soon be replaced by new leaves.
Care of a Browning Bamboo
Once you‘ve resolved the reason for a browning bamboo plant, the plant should rebound nicely. However, it’s a good idea to trim the browned leaves or tips with a clean, sharp pair of scissors. Cut the leaves at an angle to create a more natural appearance. If the leaves are completely brown, just pull them gently from the plant.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月27日
Bamboo gets a bad rap. Famous for spreading rapidly through underground rhizomes, it’s a plant that a lot of gardeners deem not worth the trouble. And while some varieties of bamboo can take over if not kept in check, there’s one surefire way to prevent those rhizomes from getting all over your yard: growing bamboo in pots. Keep reading to learn more about container grown bamboo and caring for bamboo in pots.
Growing Bamboo in Containers
Bamboo varieties can be split into two main categories: running and clumping. It’s the running ones that spread all over garden if you let them, while clumping varieties stay put and expand at a slow and respectable rate.
Growing bamboo in pots is possible for both varieties, though there will be a difference in how quickly you have to repot them. Bamboo grows a lot, even the clumping kind, and leaving it in the same pot for too long will make it become root bound and weak, eventually killing it. Since running bamboo puts out so many runners, it’s likely to become root bound much faster. Part of caring for bamboo in pots is making sure it has ample room for its roots. Ten gallons is the smallest reasonable container size, and bigger is always better. Big 25- to 30-gallon wine barrels are ideal. If your container grown bamboo is in a smaller pot, you’ll have to either transplant it or divide it every few years to keep it healthy. Bamboo can be transplanted at any time of year, but division should take place in the autumn or winter.
How to Care for Bamboo in Containers
Other than root space, caring for bamboo in pots is easy. Bamboo needs plenty of water and good drainage. In the winter, the roots are at risk of cold. Protect them by wrapping the pot in burlap or mulching heavily. If you have especially cold winters, it might be safest and easiest to bring your container grown bamboo indoors. Keep the plants at 40-50 degrees Fahrenheit (4-10 C.) and give them plenty of light until outdoor temperatures rise again.
Growing Bamboo in Containers
Bamboo varieties can be split into two main categories: running and clumping. It’s the running ones that spread all over garden if you let them, while clumping varieties stay put and expand at a slow and respectable rate.
Growing bamboo in pots is possible for both varieties, though there will be a difference in how quickly you have to repot them. Bamboo grows a lot, even the clumping kind, and leaving it in the same pot for too long will make it become root bound and weak, eventually killing it. Since running bamboo puts out so many runners, it’s likely to become root bound much faster. Part of caring for bamboo in pots is making sure it has ample room for its roots. Ten gallons is the smallest reasonable container size, and bigger is always better. Big 25- to 30-gallon wine barrels are ideal. If your container grown bamboo is in a smaller pot, you’ll have to either transplant it or divide it every few years to keep it healthy. Bamboo can be transplanted at any time of year, but division should take place in the autumn or winter.
How to Care for Bamboo in Containers
Other than root space, caring for bamboo in pots is easy. Bamboo needs plenty of water and good drainage. In the winter, the roots are at risk of cold. Protect them by wrapping the pot in burlap or mulching heavily. If you have especially cold winters, it might be safest and easiest to bring your container grown bamboo indoors. Keep the plants at 40-50 degrees Fahrenheit (4-10 C.) and give them plenty of light until outdoor temperatures rise again.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月27日
Once considered an exotic plant in the garden, many gardeners have discovered that bamboo is a versatile and robust addition to the home garden. Bamboo growth is fast and thick, and can quickly add a lovely and lush feature to the garden in no time. Caring for bamboo plants is easy and simple. Here are a few tips on bamboo plant care to help you.
Choosing a Location for Bamboo Plants
Bamboo (Bambusa spp.) is a versatile plant and most species can survive in many conditions. But bamboo growing in full sun will grow the fastest. Bamboo plants also like to have fertile, slightly acidic, well drained but moist soil. Remember, these are simply the best conditions under which to get the best bamboo growth. As long as you provide a few of these conditions, most bamboos will still be happy.
Planting Bamboo Plants
Once you have chosen a place to start your bamboo growing, you can plant your bamboo. Dig a hole that is twice as wide as the rootball on your bamboo. Set the bamboo in the hole and spread the roots out some in the hole. Gently backfill the hole, tamping down the soil some as you go. Water the hole thoroughly to help fill in any air pockets. Planting the bamboo this way allows the bamboo to establish faster, as the soil around it will be loose and the roots and rhizomes will be able to grow in it more quickly. Water weekly until the bamboo plants are established. If possible, provide some shade to the newly planted bamboo for the first two weeks after planting.
Caring for Bamboo Plants
Bamboo plant care after the plants are established is pretty straightforward. Bamboo does best if it gets at least 1 inch of water a week, either from rainfall or manual watering. Water bamboo deeply to encourage deep roots, which will help protect your bamboo from drought. If possible, do not rake up bamboo leaves from the bamboo roots. The leaves will help keep the roots protected and moist. They will also return essential nutrients to the soil as they decompose, which will encourage bamboo growth. Adding a layer of mulch to bamboo roots will also keep your bamboo growing strong. Proper bamboo plant care recommends that a layer of compost or balanced fertilizer be added in the spring.
Controlling Bamboo Growth
Sometimes bamboo growing in your yard will grow too much. It is important to find out how aggressive your variety of bamboo plants are. If you have a vigorous growing bamboo, such as the running type, you will want to consider planting it in a barrier or installing a barrier if the clump is already established. The barrier should go down at least 2 to 3 inches underground, if not more, and be 2 to 3 inches above ground. The barrier should surround the bamboo completely. Once the barrier is installed, check the top of the barrier at least once a year. Cut back any bamboo growing over the top of the barrier to prevent it from escaping. Caring for bamboo plants is almost care free, especially if growing the clumping variety vs. the running, more invasive type. Also, check with your local extension office beforehand to see if planting the running bamboo varieties is allowed, as in some areas it may be banned, though the clumping bamboo is typically fine. Enjoy the tropical and Asian flair that having bamboo growing in your garden is sure to add.
Choosing a Location for Bamboo Plants
Bamboo (Bambusa spp.) is a versatile plant and most species can survive in many conditions. But bamboo growing in full sun will grow the fastest. Bamboo plants also like to have fertile, slightly acidic, well drained but moist soil. Remember, these are simply the best conditions under which to get the best bamboo growth. As long as you provide a few of these conditions, most bamboos will still be happy.
Planting Bamboo Plants
Once you have chosen a place to start your bamboo growing, you can plant your bamboo. Dig a hole that is twice as wide as the rootball on your bamboo. Set the bamboo in the hole and spread the roots out some in the hole. Gently backfill the hole, tamping down the soil some as you go. Water the hole thoroughly to help fill in any air pockets. Planting the bamboo this way allows the bamboo to establish faster, as the soil around it will be loose and the roots and rhizomes will be able to grow in it more quickly. Water weekly until the bamboo plants are established. If possible, provide some shade to the newly planted bamboo for the first two weeks after planting.
Caring for Bamboo Plants
Bamboo plant care after the plants are established is pretty straightforward. Bamboo does best if it gets at least 1 inch of water a week, either from rainfall or manual watering. Water bamboo deeply to encourage deep roots, which will help protect your bamboo from drought. If possible, do not rake up bamboo leaves from the bamboo roots. The leaves will help keep the roots protected and moist. They will also return essential nutrients to the soil as they decompose, which will encourage bamboo growth. Adding a layer of mulch to bamboo roots will also keep your bamboo growing strong. Proper bamboo plant care recommends that a layer of compost or balanced fertilizer be added in the spring.
Controlling Bamboo Growth
Sometimes bamboo growing in your yard will grow too much. It is important to find out how aggressive your variety of bamboo plants are. If you have a vigorous growing bamboo, such as the running type, you will want to consider planting it in a barrier or installing a barrier if the clump is already established. The barrier should go down at least 2 to 3 inches underground, if not more, and be 2 to 3 inches above ground. The barrier should surround the bamboo completely. Once the barrier is installed, check the top of the barrier at least once a year. Cut back any bamboo growing over the top of the barrier to prevent it from escaping. Caring for bamboo plants is almost care free, especially if growing the clumping variety vs. the running, more invasive type. Also, check with your local extension office beforehand to see if planting the running bamboo varieties is allowed, as in some areas it may be banned, though the clumping bamboo is typically fine. Enjoy the tropical and Asian flair that having bamboo growing in your garden is sure to add.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月27日
Also known as Japanese shield fern or Japanese wood fern, autumn fern (Dryopteris erythrosora) is a hardy plant suitable for growing as far north as USDA hardiness zone 5. Autumn ferns in the garden offer beauty throughout the growing season, emerging coppery red in spring, eventually maturing to a bright, glossy, kelly green by summer. Read on to learn how to grow autumn ferns.
Autumn Fern Info and Growing
Like all ferns, the autumn fern produces no seeds and no flowers are required. Thus, ferns are strictly foliage plants. This ancient woodland plant thrives in partial or full shade and moist, rich, well-drained, slightly acidic soil. However, autumn fern can tolerate short periods of afternoon sunlight, but won’t perform well in intense heat or prolonged sunlight. Is autumn fern invasive? Although autumn fern is a non-native plant, it is not known to be invasive, and growing autumn ferns in gardens couldn’t be easier. Adding a few inches of compost, peat moss or leaf mold to the soil at planting time will improve growing conditions and get the fern off to a healthy start. Once established, autumn fern care is minimal. Basically, just provide water as needed so the soil never becomes bone dry, but be careful not to overwater. Although fertilizer isn’t an absolute necessity and too much will damage the plant, autumn fern benefits from a light application of slow-release fertilizer just after growth appears in spring. Keep in mind that autumn fern is a naturally slow-growing plant. Fall is a good time to apply an inch or two of compost or mulch, which will protect the roots from possible damage caused by freezing and thawing. Apply a fresh layer in spring. Autumn fern tends to be disease resistant, although the plant may rot in soggy, poorly-drained soil. Pests are rarely a problem, with the exception of possible damage from slugs.
Autumn Fern Info and Growing
Like all ferns, the autumn fern produces no seeds and no flowers are required. Thus, ferns are strictly foliage plants. This ancient woodland plant thrives in partial or full shade and moist, rich, well-drained, slightly acidic soil. However, autumn fern can tolerate short periods of afternoon sunlight, but won’t perform well in intense heat or prolonged sunlight. Is autumn fern invasive? Although autumn fern is a non-native plant, it is not known to be invasive, and growing autumn ferns in gardens couldn’t be easier. Adding a few inches of compost, peat moss or leaf mold to the soil at planting time will improve growing conditions and get the fern off to a healthy start. Once established, autumn fern care is minimal. Basically, just provide water as needed so the soil never becomes bone dry, but be careful not to overwater. Although fertilizer isn’t an absolute necessity and too much will damage the plant, autumn fern benefits from a light application of slow-release fertilizer just after growth appears in spring. Keep in mind that autumn fern is a naturally slow-growing plant. Fall is a good time to apply an inch or two of compost or mulch, which will protect the roots from possible damage caused by freezing and thawing. Apply a fresh layer in spring. Autumn fern tends to be disease resistant, although the plant may rot in soggy, poorly-drained soil. Pests are rarely a problem, with the exception of possible damage from slugs.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月27日
The asparagus fern plant (Asparagus aethiopicus syn. Asparagus densiflorus) is normally found in a hanging basket, decorating the deck or patio in summer and helping to clean indoor air in winter. The asparagus fern plant is not really a fern at all, but a member of the Liliaceae family. When growing asparagus ferns outside, place them in a part sun to shady location for best foliage growth. While the asparagus fern plant may sometimes flower, the tiny white flowers are small and not necessary for the beauty of growing asparagus fern.
Information on Asparagus Fern Care
Growing asparagus fern is easy. The frilly, feathery asparagus fern plant appears soft and fuzzy, but when taking care of asparagus ferns you may be surprised to find they have thorny spurs. This, however, is no reason not to grow asparagus ferns, simply wear gloves during asparagus fern care. Asparagus fern can provide small flowers and berries when it is happy in its location. Berries can be planted to propagate the asparagus fern plant. Medium green, cascading foliage that will quickly fill a container can be expected when growing asparagus fern. Growing asparagus fern indoors takes a little more effort. Humidity is necessary and indoor areas are often dry because of winter heat. Mist the plant daily and provide a nearby pebble tray to keep the tiny leaves from turning brown and dropping. The fern may dry out to the point it appears dead; however, outdoor springtime temperatures generally revive them. Keep the plant well watered in all situations and repot every few years.
Care of asparagus ferns indoors involves misting the arching stems to provide humidity to the plant. When you grow asparagus ferns outside in summer, asparagus fern care involves watering, fertilizing to encourage growth and occasionally pruning out dead stems. Asparagus ferns prefer to be pot bound, so yearly division is not needed or desirable. Combine this reliable specimen with summer blooms and foliage plants for an attractive container. A spiky, shade loving plant does well at the center of the pot, surrounded by the cascading branches of the asparagus fern.
Information on Asparagus Fern Care
Growing asparagus fern is easy. The frilly, feathery asparagus fern plant appears soft and fuzzy, but when taking care of asparagus ferns you may be surprised to find they have thorny spurs. This, however, is no reason not to grow asparagus ferns, simply wear gloves during asparagus fern care. Asparagus fern can provide small flowers and berries when it is happy in its location. Berries can be planted to propagate the asparagus fern plant. Medium green, cascading foliage that will quickly fill a container can be expected when growing asparagus fern. Growing asparagus fern indoors takes a little more effort. Humidity is necessary and indoor areas are often dry because of winter heat. Mist the plant daily and provide a nearby pebble tray to keep the tiny leaves from turning brown and dropping. The fern may dry out to the point it appears dead; however, outdoor springtime temperatures generally revive them. Keep the plant well watered in all situations and repot every few years.
Care of asparagus ferns indoors involves misting the arching stems to provide humidity to the plant. When you grow asparagus ferns outside in summer, asparagus fern care involves watering, fertilizing to encourage growth and occasionally pruning out dead stems. Asparagus ferns prefer to be pot bound, so yearly division is not needed or desirable. Combine this reliable specimen with summer blooms and foliage plants for an attractive container. A spiky, shade loving plant does well at the center of the pot, surrounded by the cascading branches of the asparagus fern.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月27日
Fine, delicate foliage and an attractive, mounding habit are just a couple of reasons gardeners like growing the silver mound plant (Artemisia schmidtiana ‘Silver Mound’). As you learn about growing and caring for silver mound plant, you will likely find other reasons to grow a few more in the garden.
Uses for Silver Mound Artemisia
This attractive plant is useful as a spreading border for the flower bed, when used as edging in the perennial garden and growing along paths and walkways. The delicate foliage retains its shape and color during the hottest months of summer.
Of the Asteraceae family, the silver mound Artemisia is the only member with a prostrate, spreading habit. Unlike others of the species, the silver mound plant is not invasive. Often called silver mound wormwood, this cultivar is a relatively dwarf plant. Scattered among tall, flowering summer blooms, the silver mound plant serves as a long lasting ground cover, shading out growing weeds and further reducing silver mound care.
Information on Caring for Silver Mound
full to partial sun location in average soil. Planting this specimen in less than fertile soil decreases some aspects of silver mound care. Soils that are too rich or too poor create the condition of splitting, dying out or separating in the middle of the mound. This is best corrected by division of the plant. Regular division of the silver mound Artemisia is a part of caring for silver mound, but is required less often if planted in the proper soil. The silver mound Artemisia is a small, resilient plant, resistant to deer, rabbits and many pests, making it an excellent addition for outlying rock gardens or beds near wooded or natural areas. Silver mound Artemisia care, other than division every two to three years, consists of infrequent watering during periods of no rain and a mid-summer trim, usually around the time the insignificant flowers appear in late June. Trimming keeps the plant tidy and helps it maintain its mounding shape and avoid splitting. Plant the silver mound Artemisia in your garden or flower bed for attractive, silver foliage and low maintenance. Drought and pest resistant, you may discover it is a desirable addition to your garden.
Uses for Silver Mound Artemisia
This attractive plant is useful as a spreading border for the flower bed, when used as edging in the perennial garden and growing along paths and walkways. The delicate foliage retains its shape and color during the hottest months of summer.
Of the Asteraceae family, the silver mound Artemisia is the only member with a prostrate, spreading habit. Unlike others of the species, the silver mound plant is not invasive. Often called silver mound wormwood, this cultivar is a relatively dwarf plant. Scattered among tall, flowering summer blooms, the silver mound plant serves as a long lasting ground cover, shading out growing weeds and further reducing silver mound care.
Information on Caring for Silver Mound
full to partial sun location in average soil. Planting this specimen in less than fertile soil decreases some aspects of silver mound care. Soils that are too rich or too poor create the condition of splitting, dying out or separating in the middle of the mound. This is best corrected by division of the plant. Regular division of the silver mound Artemisia is a part of caring for silver mound, but is required less often if planted in the proper soil. The silver mound Artemisia is a small, resilient plant, resistant to deer, rabbits and many pests, making it an excellent addition for outlying rock gardens or beds near wooded or natural areas. Silver mound Artemisia care, other than division every two to three years, consists of infrequent watering during periods of no rain and a mid-summer trim, usually around the time the insignificant flowers appear in late June. Trimming keeps the plant tidy and helps it maintain its mounding shape and avoid splitting. Plant the silver mound Artemisia in your garden or flower bed for attractive, silver foliage and low maintenance. Drought and pest resistant, you may discover it is a desirable addition to your garden.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月27日
Sagebrush (Artemisia tridentata) is a common sight along roadsides and in open fields in parts of the Northern Hemisphere. The plant is characteristic with its grayish green, needle-like leaves and spicy, yet acrid, smell. During the heat of the day, the scent is a recognizable fragrance in desert and scrublands. Growing sagebrush plants in the home landscape provides a natural look for the open field or pasture.
What is Sagebrush?
While familiar to most people, there are wonderful attributes to this plant. What is sagebrush and what are uses for sagebrush? This amazingly adaptive plant is tough enough to thrive in inhospitable terrain.
It has fine hairs on the leaves that help prevent moisture loss and produces a deep taproot that dredges moisture from nearly subterranean deposits of moisture under the earth. This plant is a member of the family Artemisia, or wormwood, of which there are varieties across the globe. Artemisia is a genus of plants with pronounced medicinal abilities. Sagebrush plants are no exception and teas were made from the bush and used for the healthful properties.
Additional Sagebrush Plant Information
appearance. They are about an inch long and end in a three-pronged set of “teeth.” This characteristic is important sagebrush plant information and sets them apart from other species of Artemisia. The young bark is gray and covered in fine hairs while older growth is dressed in shredded bark that falls off easily. Most plants do not grow taller than 4 feet but occasionally they have been found 10 feet tall in their native habitat. The shorter size is more likely when growing sagebrush plants in the home landscape.
Uses for Sagebrush
In addition to the medicinal uses for sagebrush, it is important habitat for native birds, small rodents and reptiles. The plant was used as building material for baskets and rope, and the wood was fuel for early Native American people. It also has importance as a spiritual and ritual aromatic plant. The smoke is thought to have cleansing properties by those with belief in spirits. As a poultice, it clears lungs and eases aches and pains. It was once chewed for its ability to soothe stomach problems and bowel issues. Another of the uses for sagebrush included lining cloth with the leaves of the plant as a diaper.
How to Care for a Sagebrush Plant
Sagebrush is a member of a hardy and adaptive genus that thrives where moisture and nutrients are low. They can survive ferocious winds and extreme periods of drought. As such, the worst thing you can do to sagebrush is overwater it. If you give the plant supplemental water in spring, it will bloom. There is no need to water after the plant has been established. Most pests and insects are repelled naturally by the plant’s strong taste and odor. Plant the bush in well-drained soil with plenty of sand or gritty material mixed into a depth of at least 8 inches. Potted plants should grow in a mixture of half sand and half perlite. This provides the dry conditions even in a container that the plants need. Pruning to remove dead wood or errant growth should be done in late winter. Try a sagebrush plant for part of your xeriscape garden or as an anchoring plant for unused and arid zones of the landscape.
What is Sagebrush?
While familiar to most people, there are wonderful attributes to this plant. What is sagebrush and what are uses for sagebrush? This amazingly adaptive plant is tough enough to thrive in inhospitable terrain.
It has fine hairs on the leaves that help prevent moisture loss and produces a deep taproot that dredges moisture from nearly subterranean deposits of moisture under the earth. This plant is a member of the family Artemisia, or wormwood, of which there are varieties across the globe. Artemisia is a genus of plants with pronounced medicinal abilities. Sagebrush plants are no exception and teas were made from the bush and used for the healthful properties.
Additional Sagebrush Plant Information
appearance. They are about an inch long and end in a three-pronged set of “teeth.” This characteristic is important sagebrush plant information and sets them apart from other species of Artemisia. The young bark is gray and covered in fine hairs while older growth is dressed in shredded bark that falls off easily. Most plants do not grow taller than 4 feet but occasionally they have been found 10 feet tall in their native habitat. The shorter size is more likely when growing sagebrush plants in the home landscape.
Uses for Sagebrush
In addition to the medicinal uses for sagebrush, it is important habitat for native birds, small rodents and reptiles. The plant was used as building material for baskets and rope, and the wood was fuel for early Native American people. It also has importance as a spiritual and ritual aromatic plant. The smoke is thought to have cleansing properties by those with belief in spirits. As a poultice, it clears lungs and eases aches and pains. It was once chewed for its ability to soothe stomach problems and bowel issues. Another of the uses for sagebrush included lining cloth with the leaves of the plant as a diaper.
How to Care for a Sagebrush Plant
Sagebrush is a member of a hardy and adaptive genus that thrives where moisture and nutrients are low. They can survive ferocious winds and extreme periods of drought. As such, the worst thing you can do to sagebrush is overwater it. If you give the plant supplemental water in spring, it will bloom. There is no need to water after the plant has been established. Most pests and insects are repelled naturally by the plant’s strong taste and odor. Plant the bush in well-drained soil with plenty of sand or gritty material mixed into a depth of at least 8 inches. Potted plants should grow in a mixture of half sand and half perlite. This provides the dry conditions even in a container that the plants need. Pruning to remove dead wood or errant growth should be done in late winter. Try a sagebrush plant for part of your xeriscape garden or as an anchoring plant for unused and arid zones of the landscape.
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