文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月28日
Mondo grass is also known as monkey grass. It is an evergreen perennial that makes a great groundcover or standalone grass-like plant. These plants perform well in almost any soil and lighting condition. Mondo grass is a slow growing plant that can be divided to make more of them and requires minimal care once established. A truly attractive and outstanding landscape plant with a multitude of uses, it is well worth the gardener’s time to learn how to grow mondo grass.
Mondo Grass Information
Mondo grass can tolerate almost anything, including deer, but fails without adequate moisture. What is mondo grass? It is not a true grass but does have strappy leaves and a clumping habit. In summer it brightens up the area with lavender or white flowers that develop into glossy black fruit.
Growing mondo grass is easy, as the plant withstands neglect in regions where plentiful moisture is naturally available. Once established, you can pretty much forget about the plant unless you want to go check out its seasonal beauty, or it is time to divide it.
Imagine great grassy tussocks shrunk down to fairly land size and you can envision mondo grass. These small plants grow only 6 to 10 inches tall (15 to 25 cm.) and have a clumping or mounding nature depending upon variety. Ophiopogon japonicus is the scientific name and refers to the plant’s native region of Asia. The components of the name are derived from the Latin words for snake and beard, a reference to the spiky flowers. As a lawn substitute in shady to partially sunny locations, it is a great sod alternative that never needs mowing. Mondo grass spreads by stolons, or underground stems, and can slowly form dense colonies. Leaves are ½ inch wide (1.3 cm.) and glossy green or even variegated.
How to Grow Mondo Grass
Mondo grass care is extremely minimal but you do need to choose the correct site and prepare the bed for best results. Plants are light green in full sun but deeper green in shade. Either location works well provided soil is well draining and free of competitive weeds. You can separate clumps into sections, each with several stolons and plant 4 to 12 inches (10-30 cm.) apart depending on how quickly you want the area to fill in. Dwarf mondo should be planted 2 to 4 inches (5-10 cm.) apart. Cover roots and stolons with loose soil but avoid covering the crown of the plant. Keep soil moderately moist during establishment.
Mondo Grass Care
If you are growing mondo grass as a lawn, there is little you need to maintain it. Remove any weeds as they appear and keep the area moist in the dry season. After winter storms, leaves may be ragged and can be trimmed back a bit for best appearance. Divide clumps every 3 years if grown as standalone plants. Mondo grass needs very little fertilizing. A once annual feeding in spring with a diluted grass feed is sufficient. Any mondo grass information should list its pest and disease issues. Snailsand slugsmay be a problem as can the pest scale. Disease issues are fungal and form during wet, warm periods. Serious damage by any of these is unlikely. There are numerous cultivars from which to choose, with variant flower colors and size. There is even a black-leaved mondo, which is an excellent foil for both green-leaved plants and brightly colored flora.
Mondo Grass Information
Mondo grass can tolerate almost anything, including deer, but fails without adequate moisture. What is mondo grass? It is not a true grass but does have strappy leaves and a clumping habit. In summer it brightens up the area with lavender or white flowers that develop into glossy black fruit.
Growing mondo grass is easy, as the plant withstands neglect in regions where plentiful moisture is naturally available. Once established, you can pretty much forget about the plant unless you want to go check out its seasonal beauty, or it is time to divide it.
Imagine great grassy tussocks shrunk down to fairly land size and you can envision mondo grass. These small plants grow only 6 to 10 inches tall (15 to 25 cm.) and have a clumping or mounding nature depending upon variety. Ophiopogon japonicus is the scientific name and refers to the plant’s native region of Asia. The components of the name are derived from the Latin words for snake and beard, a reference to the spiky flowers. As a lawn substitute in shady to partially sunny locations, it is a great sod alternative that never needs mowing. Mondo grass spreads by stolons, or underground stems, and can slowly form dense colonies. Leaves are ½ inch wide (1.3 cm.) and glossy green or even variegated.
How to Grow Mondo Grass
Mondo grass care is extremely minimal but you do need to choose the correct site and prepare the bed for best results. Plants are light green in full sun but deeper green in shade. Either location works well provided soil is well draining and free of competitive weeds. You can separate clumps into sections, each with several stolons and plant 4 to 12 inches (10-30 cm.) apart depending on how quickly you want the area to fill in. Dwarf mondo should be planted 2 to 4 inches (5-10 cm.) apart. Cover roots and stolons with loose soil but avoid covering the crown of the plant. Keep soil moderately moist during establishment.
Mondo Grass Care
If you are growing mondo grass as a lawn, there is little you need to maintain it. Remove any weeds as they appear and keep the area moist in the dry season. After winter storms, leaves may be ragged and can be trimmed back a bit for best appearance. Divide clumps every 3 years if grown as standalone plants. Mondo grass needs very little fertilizing. A once annual feeding in spring with a diluted grass feed is sufficient. Any mondo grass information should list its pest and disease issues. Snailsand slugsmay be a problem as can the pest scale. Disease issues are fungal and form during wet, warm periods. Serious damage by any of these is unlikely. There are numerous cultivars from which to choose, with variant flower colors and size. There is even a black-leaved mondo, which is an excellent foil for both green-leaved plants and brightly colored flora.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月28日
Japanese silver grass is an ornamental clumping grass in the genus Miscanthus. There are many cultivars of the attractive plant with most suitable for USDA plant hardiness zones 5 to 9. The Japanese silver grass plant usually produces a feathery whitish gray inflorescence that is the source of the name. There are also pink and reddish flowering varieties.
Ornamental Japanese Silver Grass Uses
Japanese silver grass (Miscanthus sinensis) is useful as a living hedge or border when planted 3 to 4 feet apart. It also makes an interesting specimen plant alone as the center of a bed or in a large pot as an accent. The ornamental Japanese silver grass group contains numerous cultivars.
Autumn Light and November Sunset are two varieties that may be grown in USDA zone 4. Some other interesting varieties are:
Adagio
Blondo
Dixieland
Flamingo
Kaskade
Little Nicky
Malepartus
Puenktchen
Variegatus
The latter has foliage striped with a silver white color.
Growing Japanese Silver Grass
The plant can get 3 to 6 feet in height and has thick, rather coarse foliage. The blades are long and arcing and stay close in a tight clump. In fall it produces reddish color and the inflorescence persists, creating an attractive seasonal display. Growing Japanese silver grass requires no special soil type but it does need a fertile, moist planting area. Japanese silver grass can become invasive in the southern states. The inflorescence becomes fluffy seeds that spread on the wind when they are ripe. The seeds readily sprout and produce numerous seedlings. To avoid this tendency, it is best to remove the flower before it seeds in warmer zones. This ornamental grass performs best when positioned in full sun. While it needs moist soil, it will tolerate drought periods after it is fully established. The grass should be cut back in spring before new shoots appear. Japanese silver grass plant is a perennial but the leaves will become brown and dry in winter as it assumes a dormant habit. Japanese silver grass care is easy, as the plant has no special requirements and few pests or disease issues.
Propagation of Japanese Silver Grass Plant
Ornamental Japanese silver grass will spread to 4 feet in diameter. When the center begins to die out and the plant is no longer looking full and healthy, it is time to divide it. Division takes place in spring. Simply dig up the plant and use a root saw or sharp spade or knife to cut the plant into sections. Each section needs a good clump of roots and foliage. Replant the sections to create new plants.
Ornamental Japanese Silver Grass Uses
Japanese silver grass (Miscanthus sinensis) is useful as a living hedge or border when planted 3 to 4 feet apart. It also makes an interesting specimen plant alone as the center of a bed or in a large pot as an accent. The ornamental Japanese silver grass group contains numerous cultivars.
Autumn Light and November Sunset are two varieties that may be grown in USDA zone 4. Some other interesting varieties are:
Adagio
Blondo
Dixieland
Flamingo
Kaskade
Little Nicky
Malepartus
Puenktchen
Variegatus
The latter has foliage striped with a silver white color.
Growing Japanese Silver Grass
The plant can get 3 to 6 feet in height and has thick, rather coarse foliage. The blades are long and arcing and stay close in a tight clump. In fall it produces reddish color and the inflorescence persists, creating an attractive seasonal display. Growing Japanese silver grass requires no special soil type but it does need a fertile, moist planting area. Japanese silver grass can become invasive in the southern states. The inflorescence becomes fluffy seeds that spread on the wind when they are ripe. The seeds readily sprout and produce numerous seedlings. To avoid this tendency, it is best to remove the flower before it seeds in warmer zones. This ornamental grass performs best when positioned in full sun. While it needs moist soil, it will tolerate drought periods after it is fully established. The grass should be cut back in spring before new shoots appear. Japanese silver grass plant is a perennial but the leaves will become brown and dry in winter as it assumes a dormant habit. Japanese silver grass care is easy, as the plant has no special requirements and few pests or disease issues.
Propagation of Japanese Silver Grass Plant
Ornamental Japanese silver grass will spread to 4 feet in diameter. When the center begins to die out and the plant is no longer looking full and healthy, it is time to divide it. Division takes place in spring. Simply dig up the plant and use a root saw or sharp spade or knife to cut the plant into sections. Each section needs a good clump of roots and foliage. Replant the sections to create new plants.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月28日
Japanese forest grass plant is an elegant member of the Hakonechloa family. These ornamental plants are slow growing and require little extra care once established. The plants are semi-evergreen (depending on where you live, and may die back over winter) and show best in a partially shaded location. There are several different colors of Japanese forest grass plants. Choose a color that enlivens the surrounding landscape when you are growing forest grass.
Japanese Forest Grass Plant
Japanese forest grass is an attractive, graceful plant that grows slowly and is not invasive. The grass gets 18 to 24 inches tall and has an arching habit with long flat, foliar blades. These arching blades sweep from the base and gracefully re-touch the earth. Japanese forest grass comes in several hues and may be solid or striped. Most varieties are variegated and have stripes. The variegation is white or yellow. Golden Japanese forest grass (Hakonechloa macra) is one of the more popular types and is a completely sunny, bright yellow variety. The golden Japanese forest grass is best planted in full shade. Sunlight will fade the yellow leaf blades to a white. The leaves get a pink tinge to the edges as fall arrives, increasing the appeal of this easy to grow plant. The following cultivars of golden Japanese forest grass are most commonly grown in the garden:
All Gold’ is a sunny golden Japanese forest grass that brightens up dark areas of the garden.
‘Aureola’ has green and yellow blades.
‘Albo Striata’ is striped with white.
Growing Forest Grass
Japanese forest grass plant is suitable for USDA zones 5 to 9. It can survive in zone 4 with heavy protection and mulching. The grass grows from stolens and rhizomes, which will cause it to slowly spread over time. The plant thrives in moist soils in low light situations. The blades become slightly narrower at the ends and the tips may become dry or brown when exposed to bright light. For best results, plant it in moderate to full shade in a well-drained area with nutrient rich soil.
Caring for Japanese Forest Grasses
Caring for Japanese forest grasses is not a very time consuming chore. Once planted, Japanese forest grass is an easy to care for ornamental. The grass should be kept evenly moist, but not soggy. Spread an organic mulch around the base of the plant to help conserve moisture. Hakonechloa doesn’t need supplemental fertilizing in good soils but if you do fertilize, wait until after the first blush of growth in spring. When sun hits the blades, they tend to brown. For those planted in sunnier areas, cut off the dead ends as needed to improve the appearance of the plant. In winter, cut back spent blades to the crown.
Older plants can be dug up and cut in half for quick propagation. Once the grass matures, it is easy to divide and propagate a new Japanese forest grass plant. Divide in spring or fall for the best plant starts.
Japanese Forest Grass Plant
Japanese forest grass is an attractive, graceful plant that grows slowly and is not invasive. The grass gets 18 to 24 inches tall and has an arching habit with long flat, foliar blades. These arching blades sweep from the base and gracefully re-touch the earth. Japanese forest grass comes in several hues and may be solid or striped. Most varieties are variegated and have stripes. The variegation is white or yellow. Golden Japanese forest grass (Hakonechloa macra) is one of the more popular types and is a completely sunny, bright yellow variety. The golden Japanese forest grass is best planted in full shade. Sunlight will fade the yellow leaf blades to a white. The leaves get a pink tinge to the edges as fall arrives, increasing the appeal of this easy to grow plant. The following cultivars of golden Japanese forest grass are most commonly grown in the garden:
All Gold’ is a sunny golden Japanese forest grass that brightens up dark areas of the garden.
‘Aureola’ has green and yellow blades.
‘Albo Striata’ is striped with white.
Growing Forest Grass
Japanese forest grass plant is suitable for USDA zones 5 to 9. It can survive in zone 4 with heavy protection and mulching. The grass grows from stolens and rhizomes, which will cause it to slowly spread over time. The plant thrives in moist soils in low light situations. The blades become slightly narrower at the ends and the tips may become dry or brown when exposed to bright light. For best results, plant it in moderate to full shade in a well-drained area with nutrient rich soil.
Caring for Japanese Forest Grasses
Caring for Japanese forest grasses is not a very time consuming chore. Once planted, Japanese forest grass is an easy to care for ornamental. The grass should be kept evenly moist, but not soggy. Spread an organic mulch around the base of the plant to help conserve moisture. Hakonechloa doesn’t need supplemental fertilizing in good soils but if you do fertilize, wait until after the first blush of growth in spring. When sun hits the blades, they tend to brown. For those planted in sunnier areas, cut off the dead ends as needed to improve the appearance of the plant. In winter, cut back spent blades to the crown.
Older plants can be dug up and cut in half for quick propagation. Once the grass matures, it is easy to divide and propagate a new Japanese forest grass plant. Divide in spring or fall for the best plant starts.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月28日
Hostas make a lovely shade garden plant but there is no reason that these hardy and versatile foliage plants need to remain tucked away in your shade garden. Hostas will also thrive in containers and look wonderful accenting a shady patio or porch. Also, if you have serious trouble with slugs in your garden, container gardening with your hostas may be the answer.
How to Plant Hosta Plants in Containers
To plant your hostas in containers:
Fill the base of the pot you’ve chosen with rocks for drainage. One or two inches will do. Fill the pot with your choice of soil mix. Don’t fill it completely just yet, though. Place a handful of slow release fertilizer in the container. Add a little bit of soil to the fertilizer, mix it up well and then put the hosta on top of that. Remove the hosta from its growing pot and fork over the rootball to help free the roots. This will help the plant establish quickly in the new container, but will not damage the roots. Center the hosta in the pot and then fill the container with more soil. Make sure you water the plant carefully. Finally, cover the surface of the container with a thick layer of small pebbles. This stops any slugs and will help keep the roots of your hosta cool. It’s also going to prevent the soil from drying quickly.
Remember that hostas in containers need water regularly. Make sure you water them below the leaf canopy and around the crowns. Excessive wetting can mark the leaves. At the same time, make sure that the container you plant your hostas in has good drainage. This is important to keep root rot from setting in. You can tuck in a few other shade loving flowers and plants as well. Hostas make a wonderful backdrop to help make the colors of the flowers pop. Even on their own, hostas can help add a tropical feel to a shady but soilless area in your garden.
How to Plant Hosta Plants in Containers
To plant your hostas in containers:
Fill the base of the pot you’ve chosen with rocks for drainage. One or two inches will do. Fill the pot with your choice of soil mix. Don’t fill it completely just yet, though. Place a handful of slow release fertilizer in the container. Add a little bit of soil to the fertilizer, mix it up well and then put the hosta on top of that. Remove the hosta from its growing pot and fork over the rootball to help free the roots. This will help the plant establish quickly in the new container, but will not damage the roots. Center the hosta in the pot and then fill the container with more soil. Make sure you water the plant carefully. Finally, cover the surface of the container with a thick layer of small pebbles. This stops any slugs and will help keep the roots of your hosta cool. It’s also going to prevent the soil from drying quickly.
Remember that hostas in containers need water regularly. Make sure you water them below the leaf canopy and around the crowns. Excessive wetting can mark the leaves. At the same time, make sure that the container you plant your hostas in has good drainage. This is important to keep root rot from setting in. You can tuck in a few other shade loving flowers and plants as well. Hostas make a wonderful backdrop to help make the colors of the flowers pop. Even on their own, hostas can help add a tropical feel to a shady but soilless area in your garden.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月28日
One of the beautiful features of hostas are their rich green leaves. When you find your hosta plant leaves turning yellow, you know something is wrong. Yellowing leaves on hosta doesn’t necessarily mean disaster, but it is definitely time to investigate. The problem could be anything from too much sun to incurable diseases. If you want to find out why hosta leaves turn yellow, read on.
Reasons for Yellow Hosta Leaves
Hosta leaves turn yellow for a wide variety of reasons, and it is important for you to figure out the particular reason that applies to your plant.
Hosta Leaves Turning Yellow from Scorch
Perhaps the easiest situation to remedy is when yellow hosta leaves indicate too much sun. Hosta are plants that grow best in partial shade or even full shade. In fact, they are regular fixtures in the shade garden. If you grow them in full sun, you can expect yellow hosta leaves. The foliage turns yellow and scorches at the margins. When you see hosta plant leaves turning yellow because of too much sun, it is termed hosta scorch. Hosta scorch is even more pronounced if the plant is also grown in poor soil. The plant prefers soil rich in organic matter that will hold water. During a drought, or when dried out in full sun, the hosta leaves become pale and the margins scorch. You can give the plant temporary relief by watering well early in the day, but the better and more permanent solution is to transplant the hosta to a shaded site in high organic matter soil.
Yellowing Leaves on Hosta Indicating Disease
When yellow hosta leaves indicate disease, the options for treating the problem are more difficult. When you see yellowing leaves on hosta, the plant may have petiole rot, caused by the fungus Sclerotium rolfsii var. delphinii. The earliest symptoms are yellowing and browning of the lower leaf margins. If you see brown, mushy decay and white fungal threads or fungal fruiting structures about the size of mustard seeds at the base of the petiole, your plant probably has this disease. You cannot save plants infected with petiole rot. Prevent the problem by inspecting young plants carefully before you plant them. You should also remove and destroy all infected plants and remove and replace the soil to 8 inches.
Other fungal diseases, rots and virus diseases that cause yellowing leaves on hosta are equally impossible to cure. For fusarium root and crown rot, bacterial soft rot, hosta virus X and other viruses, all you can do is remove the plants and destroy them, trying not to spread the disease to other plants. Since fungal diseases live in the soil and attack hosta at or below the surface of the soil, you may need to kill the fungus by solarizing the soil with black plastic. Be sure to keep your garden tools clean, keep the area free of debris, and avoid transplanting diseased plants. Other fungal diseases, such as root and stem rot, are generally caused by excessive moisture and are usually deadly. Be careful not to overwater and don’t limit air circulation by crowding the plants. Water your hosta at the soil level to keep the leaves dry.
Pests Causing Yellow Hosta Leaves
Foliar nematodes are microscopic worms that live inside the leaves. Symptoms, which are usually first noticed in June, begin as a yellow discoloration that later turn into brown streaks between the leaf veins. Keep an eye on the plant and remove affected leaves immediately to prevent the pests from spreading.
Hosta Leaves Turning Yellow Naturally
Once the growing season dies down, hostas will naturally begin to enter dormancy. When this happens, you may notice yellowing hosta leaves. This is perfectly normal and nothing to worry about. Once the leaves have completely died back in fall, you can cut the plant back.
Reasons for Yellow Hosta Leaves
Hosta leaves turn yellow for a wide variety of reasons, and it is important for you to figure out the particular reason that applies to your plant.
Hosta Leaves Turning Yellow from Scorch
Perhaps the easiest situation to remedy is when yellow hosta leaves indicate too much sun. Hosta are plants that grow best in partial shade or even full shade. In fact, they are regular fixtures in the shade garden. If you grow them in full sun, you can expect yellow hosta leaves. The foliage turns yellow and scorches at the margins. When you see hosta plant leaves turning yellow because of too much sun, it is termed hosta scorch. Hosta scorch is even more pronounced if the plant is also grown in poor soil. The plant prefers soil rich in organic matter that will hold water. During a drought, or when dried out in full sun, the hosta leaves become pale and the margins scorch. You can give the plant temporary relief by watering well early in the day, but the better and more permanent solution is to transplant the hosta to a shaded site in high organic matter soil.
Yellowing Leaves on Hosta Indicating Disease
When yellow hosta leaves indicate disease, the options for treating the problem are more difficult. When you see yellowing leaves on hosta, the plant may have petiole rot, caused by the fungus Sclerotium rolfsii var. delphinii. The earliest symptoms are yellowing and browning of the lower leaf margins. If you see brown, mushy decay and white fungal threads or fungal fruiting structures about the size of mustard seeds at the base of the petiole, your plant probably has this disease. You cannot save plants infected with petiole rot. Prevent the problem by inspecting young plants carefully before you plant them. You should also remove and destroy all infected plants and remove and replace the soil to 8 inches.
Other fungal diseases, rots and virus diseases that cause yellowing leaves on hosta are equally impossible to cure. For fusarium root and crown rot, bacterial soft rot, hosta virus X and other viruses, all you can do is remove the plants and destroy them, trying not to spread the disease to other plants. Since fungal diseases live in the soil and attack hosta at or below the surface of the soil, you may need to kill the fungus by solarizing the soil with black plastic. Be sure to keep your garden tools clean, keep the area free of debris, and avoid transplanting diseased plants. Other fungal diseases, such as root and stem rot, are generally caused by excessive moisture and are usually deadly. Be careful not to overwater and don’t limit air circulation by crowding the plants. Water your hosta at the soil level to keep the leaves dry.
Pests Causing Yellow Hosta Leaves
Foliar nematodes are microscopic worms that live inside the leaves. Symptoms, which are usually first noticed in June, begin as a yellow discoloration that later turn into brown streaks between the leaf veins. Keep an eye on the plant and remove affected leaves immediately to prevent the pests from spreading.
Hosta Leaves Turning Yellow Naturally
Once the growing season dies down, hostas will naturally begin to enter dormancy. When this happens, you may notice yellowing hosta leaves. This is perfectly normal and nothing to worry about. Once the leaves have completely died back in fall, you can cut the plant back.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月28日
Do hosta plants have flowers? Yes, they do. Hosta plants grow flowers, and some are lovely and fragrant. But hosta plants are known for their gorgeous overlapping leaves, not for hosta plant flowers. Read on for information about flowers on hosta plants and for an answer to the question: should you let hosta grow flowers.
Do Hosta Plants Have Flowers?
Every hosta plant grows flowers. But not every hosta plant flowering is a welcome sight to the gardener. Many gardeners select hostas for the shade garden because of their lush foliage, not hosta plant flowers. The mounding leaves of cultivars can be spectacular, ranging in color from standard green to blues, white and gold. They also come in many shapes, sizes and textures. For example, if you want a very small hosta, you can plant “Baby Bunting” that even at maturity is only a few inches wide. Other hosta plants, like “Blue Angel,” can grow to over 8 feet in diameter. Because of this emphasis on foliage, hosta flowers can be viewed as an extra plus for the plant. They can also been seen as a distraction from the main show.
Flowers on Hosta Plants
Hosta plant flowering can be a very fancy affair. The plants flower in summer, offering spikes of blossoms that look like lilies, in shades of lavender or white. The bell-shaped blooms can be showy and exceptionally fragrant, attracting hummingbirds and bees. New cultivars are being developed that offer even larger, more impressive blooms. Some offer up to 75 flowers per stem. In short, hosta flowers can add ornamental value to a hosta plant. Yet, many gardeners still ask: should you let hosta grow flowers?
Should You Let Hosta Grow Flowers?
Whether you want pure foliage or will accept hosta plant flowers is a matter of personal taste. Each gardener must make up his or her own mind. The quality of the blossoms your hosta plant flowering produces might influence your decision. Many gardeners like tall flower scapes, but not every plant produces them. Sometimes, especially with the white-flowered hostas, the flower scapes are awkwardly short and stunted. And whether or not you allow them to bloom, you’ll want to clip the scapes when the blossoms fade. Faded hosta flowers are not attractive.
Do Hosta Plants Have Flowers?
Every hosta plant grows flowers. But not every hosta plant flowering is a welcome sight to the gardener. Many gardeners select hostas for the shade garden because of their lush foliage, not hosta plant flowers. The mounding leaves of cultivars can be spectacular, ranging in color from standard green to blues, white and gold. They also come in many shapes, sizes and textures. For example, if you want a very small hosta, you can plant “Baby Bunting” that even at maturity is only a few inches wide. Other hosta plants, like “Blue Angel,” can grow to over 8 feet in diameter. Because of this emphasis on foliage, hosta flowers can be viewed as an extra plus for the plant. They can also been seen as a distraction from the main show.
Flowers on Hosta Plants
Hosta plant flowering can be a very fancy affair. The plants flower in summer, offering spikes of blossoms that look like lilies, in shades of lavender or white. The bell-shaped blooms can be showy and exceptionally fragrant, attracting hummingbirds and bees. New cultivars are being developed that offer even larger, more impressive blooms. Some offer up to 75 flowers per stem. In short, hosta flowers can add ornamental value to a hosta plant. Yet, many gardeners still ask: should you let hosta grow flowers?
Should You Let Hosta Grow Flowers?
Whether you want pure foliage or will accept hosta plant flowers is a matter of personal taste. Each gardener must make up his or her own mind. The quality of the blossoms your hosta plant flowering produces might influence your decision. Many gardeners like tall flower scapes, but not every plant produces them. Sometimes, especially with the white-flowered hostas, the flower scapes are awkwardly short and stunted. And whether or not you allow them to bloom, you’ll want to clip the scapes when the blossoms fade. Faded hosta flowers are not attractive.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月28日
Have you ever thought about growing hosta indoors? Typically, hostas are grown outdoors in shady or semi-shady areas, either in the ground or in containers. However, just because growing hosta as an indoor plant isn’t the norm, that doesn’t mean it can’t be done – beautifully! Read on to learn how to grow hosta indoors.
Can I Grow Hosta Inside?
Definitely! However, growing hosta indoors requires a bit more care and attention to ensure the plant’s needs are met.
How to Grow Hosta Indoors
Begin with the right container for your hosta. Some varieties require a very large pot, while small cultivars do fine in a relatively small container. To prevent rot, be sure the container has a drainage hole in the bottom. Place the hosta where it receives bright, indirect sunlight. Avoid direct sunlight, which is too intense. As with many other houseplants, they appreciate time outdoors during spring and summer, preferably in a somewhat shady location. With hosta houseplant care, you’ll want to water indoor hosta plants whenever the soil feels slightly dry, as hosta prefers soil that is consistently moist, but never soggy. Water deeply until excess trickles through the drainage hole, then let the pot drain thoroughly. Avoid wetting the leaves.
Fertilize hosta every other week during the growing season, using a water-soluble fertilizer for houseplants. Unlike most indoor plants, indoor hostas require a period of dormancy during the winter, which replicates the plant’s normal outdoor growing conditions. Move the plant to a dark room where temperatures remain cool – about 40 F. (4 C.), but never freezing. The leaves may drop off during dormancy. Don’t worry; this is par for the course. Protect the roots with a layer of shredded bark or other organic mulch. Water the hosta lightly once a month throughout the winter months. While the plant requires little moisture during this time, the soil shouldn’t be allowed to become bone dry.
Return the hosta to its normal location in spring and care for as normal. Move the hosta to a larger container whenever the plant outgrows its pot – generally once every two or three years. If the plant has become larger than you like, this is a good time to divide it.
Can I Grow Hosta Inside?
Definitely! However, growing hosta indoors requires a bit more care and attention to ensure the plant’s needs are met.
How to Grow Hosta Indoors
Begin with the right container for your hosta. Some varieties require a very large pot, while small cultivars do fine in a relatively small container. To prevent rot, be sure the container has a drainage hole in the bottom. Place the hosta where it receives bright, indirect sunlight. Avoid direct sunlight, which is too intense. As with many other houseplants, they appreciate time outdoors during spring and summer, preferably in a somewhat shady location. With hosta houseplant care, you’ll want to water indoor hosta plants whenever the soil feels slightly dry, as hosta prefers soil that is consistently moist, but never soggy. Water deeply until excess trickles through the drainage hole, then let the pot drain thoroughly. Avoid wetting the leaves.
Fertilize hosta every other week during the growing season, using a water-soluble fertilizer for houseplants. Unlike most indoor plants, indoor hostas require a period of dormancy during the winter, which replicates the plant’s normal outdoor growing conditions. Move the plant to a dark room where temperatures remain cool – about 40 F. (4 C.), but never freezing. The leaves may drop off during dormancy. Don’t worry; this is par for the course. Protect the roots with a layer of shredded bark or other organic mulch. Water the hosta lightly once a month throughout the winter months. While the plant requires little moisture during this time, the soil shouldn’t be allowed to become bone dry.
Return the hosta to its normal location in spring and care for as normal. Move the hosta to a larger container whenever the plant outgrows its pot – generally once every two or three years. If the plant has become larger than you like, this is a good time to divide it.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月28日
I love ferns and we have our share of them in the Pacific Northwest. I’m not the only admirer of ferns and, in fact, many people collect them. One little beauty begging to be added to a fern collection is called the heart fern plant. Growing heart ferns as houseplants may take a little TLC, but is well worth the effort.
Information About the Heart Fern Plant
The scientific name for the heart leaf fern is Hemionitis arifolia and is commonly referred to by a number of names, including tongue fern. First identified in 1859, heart leaf ferns are native to Southeast Asia. It is a delicate dwarf fern, which is also an epiphyte, meaning it grows upon trees as well.
It makes not only an attractive specimen to add to the fern collection, but is being studied for purported beneficial effects in the treatment of diabetes. The jury is still out, but early Asian cultures utilized heart leaf to treat the disease. This fern presents itself with dark green heart-shaped fronds, about 2-3 inches long and borne on black stems, and reaches a height of between 6-8 inches tall. Leaves are dimorphic, meaning some are sterile and some are fertile. The sterile fronds are heart shaped upon a 2- to 4-inch thick stalk, while the fertile fronds are shaped like an arrowhead on a thicker stalk. The fronds are not the stereotypical fern leaves. Heart fern’s foliage is thick, leathery and slightly waxy. Like other ferns, it does not flower but reproduces from spores in the spring.
Heart Fern Care
Because this fern is native to regions of warm temperatures and high humidity, the challenge for the gardener growing heart ferns as houseplants is in maintaining those conditions: low light, high humidity and warm temperatures. If you reside in an area with climactic outdoor conditions that mimic those above, then heart fern may do well in an area outdoors, but for the rest of us, this little fern should grow in a terrarium or a shaded place in an atrium or greenhouse. Keep the temperature between 60-85 degrees F. (15-29 C.) with lower temps at night and high ones during the day. Increase the humidity level by keeping a gravel filled drainage tray beneath the fern. Heart fern care also tells us that this evergreen perennial needs well-draining soil that is fertile, moist and humus rich. A mix of clean aquarium charcoal, one part sand, two parts humus and two parts garden soil (with a bit of fir bark for both drainage and moisture) is recommended. Ferns don’t need a lot of extra fertilizer, so only feed once a month with a water-soluble fertilizer diluted in half.
The heart fern houseplant needs bright, indirect sunlight. Keep the plant moist, but not wet, as it is prone to rot. Ideally, you should use soft water or let hard tap water sit overnight to dissipate the harsh chemicals and then use the next day. Heart fern is also prone to scale, mealybugs and aphids. It is best to remove these by hand rather than relying on a pesticide, though neem oil is an effective and organic option. All in all, heart fern is a fairly low maintenance and thoroughly delightful addition to a fern collection or for anyone that wants a unique houseplant.
Information About the Heart Fern Plant
The scientific name for the heart leaf fern is Hemionitis arifolia and is commonly referred to by a number of names, including tongue fern. First identified in 1859, heart leaf ferns are native to Southeast Asia. It is a delicate dwarf fern, which is also an epiphyte, meaning it grows upon trees as well.
It makes not only an attractive specimen to add to the fern collection, but is being studied for purported beneficial effects in the treatment of diabetes. The jury is still out, but early Asian cultures utilized heart leaf to treat the disease. This fern presents itself with dark green heart-shaped fronds, about 2-3 inches long and borne on black stems, and reaches a height of between 6-8 inches tall. Leaves are dimorphic, meaning some are sterile and some are fertile. The sterile fronds are heart shaped upon a 2- to 4-inch thick stalk, while the fertile fronds are shaped like an arrowhead on a thicker stalk. The fronds are not the stereotypical fern leaves. Heart fern’s foliage is thick, leathery and slightly waxy. Like other ferns, it does not flower but reproduces from spores in the spring.
Heart Fern Care
Because this fern is native to regions of warm temperatures and high humidity, the challenge for the gardener growing heart ferns as houseplants is in maintaining those conditions: low light, high humidity and warm temperatures. If you reside in an area with climactic outdoor conditions that mimic those above, then heart fern may do well in an area outdoors, but for the rest of us, this little fern should grow in a terrarium or a shaded place in an atrium or greenhouse. Keep the temperature between 60-85 degrees F. (15-29 C.) with lower temps at night and high ones during the day. Increase the humidity level by keeping a gravel filled drainage tray beneath the fern. Heart fern care also tells us that this evergreen perennial needs well-draining soil that is fertile, moist and humus rich. A mix of clean aquarium charcoal, one part sand, two parts humus and two parts garden soil (with a bit of fir bark for both drainage and moisture) is recommended. Ferns don’t need a lot of extra fertilizer, so only feed once a month with a water-soluble fertilizer diluted in half.
The heart fern houseplant needs bright, indirect sunlight. Keep the plant moist, but not wet, as it is prone to rot. Ideally, you should use soft water or let hard tap water sit overnight to dissipate the harsh chemicals and then use the next day. Heart fern is also prone to scale, mealybugs and aphids. It is best to remove these by hand rather than relying on a pesticide, though neem oil is an effective and organic option. All in all, heart fern is a fairly low maintenance and thoroughly delightful addition to a fern collection or for anyone that wants a unique houseplant.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月28日
The hart’s tongue fern plant (Asplenium scolopendrium) is a rarity even in its native ranges. The fern is a perennial that was once prolific in cool North American ranges and high hill lands. Its gradual disappearance is probably due to human intervention and expansion, which has removed or destroyed much of its natural growing zones. It has a limited distribution today, but some nurseries specialize in hart’s fern cultivation and these plants are part of an important reintroduction to the environment. You will have to be very lucky to find one of these plants for home cultivation. Whatever you do, don’t remove a wild plant! Growing a hart’s tongue fern in the landscape is an attractive notion, but harvesting the native plants will only further deplete their territory and help eradicate them from native environs.
Recognizing Hart’s Tongue Fern Plants
This fern is remarkably attractive with long glossy untoothed evergreen fronds. Leaves are 20 to 40 centimeters in length and strap-like with an almost tropical appearance. The plants can be found in Michigan and parts of New York on north- or east-facing slopes with plenty of rock cover, and at the edges of mossy tree zones. They are often accompanied in the environment by bryophytes, other ferns, mosses and sugar maple trees. The leaves stay evergreen all year and plants can develop up to 100 leaves per root zone, although 10 to 40 is more common.
Hart’s Tongue Fern Cultivation
The fern grows in shaded, cool areas with protection from environmental influences. Primarily found in northern forests, the plant requires moisture and is often found clinging to cracks in white limestone and other rocky regions. It is epipetric and needs just a few inches of rich humus in which to grow. Hart’s tongue fern plants grow from spores that start out asexual in the first year and give rise to the next generation, which has sex organs and is called a gametophyte. The plants are slow growing and the process is difficult to mimic in culture. Mature plants will produce swollen bases which can be removed and held in a bag of moist peat until they form rootlets.
Hart’s Tongue Fern Care
Due to the plant’s sensitivity to environmental influences, organic methods are necessary to take care of hart’s tongue ferns. Plant the fern in rich soil in a partially sunny to full shade location. A sheltered location is best, but you can also situate the fern in a rockery where it will feel right at home. Enrich the soil before planting with compost, leaf litter or other organic amendment. Slightly acidic soil is the best medium for hart’s tongue fern care. Water the plant during the first season regularly and thereafter when temperatures are unusually dry. Exposure to pesticides, insecticides and fungicides must not occur when you take care of hart’s tongue ferns due to their intolerance of non-organic chemicals.
Recognizing Hart’s Tongue Fern Plants
This fern is remarkably attractive with long glossy untoothed evergreen fronds. Leaves are 20 to 40 centimeters in length and strap-like with an almost tropical appearance. The plants can be found in Michigan and parts of New York on north- or east-facing slopes with plenty of rock cover, and at the edges of mossy tree zones. They are often accompanied in the environment by bryophytes, other ferns, mosses and sugar maple trees. The leaves stay evergreen all year and plants can develop up to 100 leaves per root zone, although 10 to 40 is more common.
Hart’s Tongue Fern Cultivation
The fern grows in shaded, cool areas with protection from environmental influences. Primarily found in northern forests, the plant requires moisture and is often found clinging to cracks in white limestone and other rocky regions. It is epipetric and needs just a few inches of rich humus in which to grow. Hart’s tongue fern plants grow from spores that start out asexual in the first year and give rise to the next generation, which has sex organs and is called a gametophyte. The plants are slow growing and the process is difficult to mimic in culture. Mature plants will produce swollen bases which can be removed and held in a bag of moist peat until they form rootlets.
Hart’s Tongue Fern Care
Due to the plant’s sensitivity to environmental influences, organic methods are necessary to take care of hart’s tongue ferns. Plant the fern in rich soil in a partially sunny to full shade location. A sheltered location is best, but you can also situate the fern in a rockery where it will feel right at home. Enrich the soil before planting with compost, leaf litter or other organic amendment. Slightly acidic soil is the best medium for hart’s tongue fern care. Water the plant during the first season regularly and thereafter when temperatures are unusually dry. Exposure to pesticides, insecticides and fungicides must not occur when you take care of hart’s tongue ferns due to their intolerance of non-organic chemicals.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月28日
If you’re looking to make a statement in your yard and have some low-lying ground to plant, the Gunnera is a great choice for visual impact. Let’s learn more about how to grow Gunnera plants.
Gunnera Plant Information
Sometimes called Dinosaur Food (Gunnera manicata), the Gunnera’s deeply-lobed leaves can get up to 4 feet across and the plant can stand up to 8 feet tall. Gunnera tinctoria, also known as prickly rhubarb, is similar and just as big. Both of these prehistoric-looking greenery plants will fill in large empty spaces in the corners and edges of your yard, and will thrive in boggy ground where other plants’ roots might drown.
Growing and Caring for Gunnera
The most difficult part about caring for Gunnera is its moisture requirements. If you have a piece of ground that is constantly saturated from deck run-off or some low ground at the bottom of a hill, you’ve found the ideal place for growing Gunnera plants. Gunnera loves moist and boggy ground and must be kept well-watered at all times. Set a sprinkler next to the plant and let it go for an hour or so, as the leaves love moisture as much as the roots do. Choose your planting spot in low ground that gets full sunlight for at least most of the day. Dig in lots of compost and other organic material when preparing the ground for planting. Give the plant a heavy feeding when you first plant it to give it a good start.
It takes a lot of energy to create this much growth, and this makes Gunnera a heavy feeder. In addition to the fertilizer you dig in with the first planting, feed them twice more during the season with a good, all purpose fertilizer. Side dress the plants and water the fertilizer into the soil next to the crown. Many perennial plants can be propagated by dividing, but the Gunnera is so large that this method is hard to use. The best way to increase your Gunnera plot is by cutting out a portion of the crown much like you’d remove a wedge of pie. Do this in April or May before the main growth has begun. Plant this new juvenile plant at least 10 feet away to give both plants room to grow.
Gunnera may be tough, but it can be damaged by winter frost. Cut the leaves down around November and pile them on top of the center crown left in the ground. This will insulate the more tender parts of the plant from the cold. Remove the dead leaves early in the spring to allow new growth to spring up.
Gunnera Plant Information
Sometimes called Dinosaur Food (Gunnera manicata), the Gunnera’s deeply-lobed leaves can get up to 4 feet across and the plant can stand up to 8 feet tall. Gunnera tinctoria, also known as prickly rhubarb, is similar and just as big. Both of these prehistoric-looking greenery plants will fill in large empty spaces in the corners and edges of your yard, and will thrive in boggy ground where other plants’ roots might drown.
Growing and Caring for Gunnera
The most difficult part about caring for Gunnera is its moisture requirements. If you have a piece of ground that is constantly saturated from deck run-off or some low ground at the bottom of a hill, you’ve found the ideal place for growing Gunnera plants. Gunnera loves moist and boggy ground and must be kept well-watered at all times. Set a sprinkler next to the plant and let it go for an hour or so, as the leaves love moisture as much as the roots do. Choose your planting spot in low ground that gets full sunlight for at least most of the day. Dig in lots of compost and other organic material when preparing the ground for planting. Give the plant a heavy feeding when you first plant it to give it a good start.
It takes a lot of energy to create this much growth, and this makes Gunnera a heavy feeder. In addition to the fertilizer you dig in with the first planting, feed them twice more during the season with a good, all purpose fertilizer. Side dress the plants and water the fertilizer into the soil next to the crown. Many perennial plants can be propagated by dividing, but the Gunnera is so large that this method is hard to use. The best way to increase your Gunnera plot is by cutting out a portion of the crown much like you’d remove a wedge of pie. Do this in April or May before the main growth has begun. Plant this new juvenile plant at least 10 feet away to give both plants room to grow.
Gunnera may be tough, but it can be damaged by winter frost. Cut the leaves down around November and pile them on top of the center crown left in the ground. This will insulate the more tender parts of the plant from the cold. Remove the dead leaves early in the spring to allow new growth to spring up.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月28日
Fountain grass (Pennisetum) is a mound-forming ornamental grass and a garden favorite, as the care of fountain grass is easy. The cascading leaves on this plant have a fountain-like appearance. Clump-forming grasses grow in mounds or clumps, making them ideal for many areas without becoming invasive. It can be used alone as a specimen plant or in a border alongside other perennials. Fountain grass is an attractive perennial grass densely clumped growth. Blooming of its foxtail-looking flowers generally takes place from late summer through the fall. The small flowers of fountain grass are tan, pink or purple. During fall and throughout winter, this plant will also reward gardeners with spectacular foliage displays.
Types of Fountain Grass
There are different types of fountain grass to choose, ranging in size from 12 inches to 3 feet. One of the most common varieties is dwarf fountain grass Hameln (P. alopecuroides ‘Hameln’). Its light tan blooms turn pinkish brown in fall. This fountain grass blooms earlier than the others, making it a great choice for gardens with shorter growing seasons. Purple fountain grass (P. setaceum) has both purple foliage and blooms. Used for its reddish foliage and showy flowers is red fountain grass (P. setaceum ‘Rubrum’), which grows about 3 to 4 feet tall. Other types of fountain grass cultivars include ‘Cassian,’ ‘Little Bunny’, ‘Little Honey’, and ‘Moudry’.
Growing Fountain Grass
Growing fountain grass is easy. As with most ornamental grasses, fountain grass is extremely adaptable. Care of fountain grass is easy as well. It’s sometimes helpful to cut back the foliage in the spring prior to growth. Although not specifically a requirement for fountain grass, fertilizer can be applied as growth resumes in the spring. Established plants do not need regular watering, except during periods of drought. Fountain grass does well in nearly any type of soil; however, for greater results, fountain grass should be planted in fertile, well-drained soil. Fountain grass enjoys full sun but tolerates some light shade. Look for areas receiving full sun, as these plants prefer warm conditions. Warm-season grasses thrive in warmer temperatures ranging from 75 to 85 F. (24-29 C.).
Transplanting Fountain Grass
Transplanting fountain grass is not always necessary; however, it can be dug up and divided in areas where overcrowding may occur or if more plants are simply desired. Division usually depends on spacing or visual appearance. For instance, plants suffering from die-out in the center can be divided to improve their appearance. Division can be performed in early spring prior to new growth or after the growing season in the late summer or fall. Taking care of fountain grass is a rewarding undertaking for a gardener. By growing fountain grass, you add a low maintenance option to your garden.
Types of Fountain Grass
There are different types of fountain grass to choose, ranging in size from 12 inches to 3 feet. One of the most common varieties is dwarf fountain grass Hameln (P. alopecuroides ‘Hameln’). Its light tan blooms turn pinkish brown in fall. This fountain grass blooms earlier than the others, making it a great choice for gardens with shorter growing seasons. Purple fountain grass (P. setaceum) has both purple foliage and blooms. Used for its reddish foliage and showy flowers is red fountain grass (P. setaceum ‘Rubrum’), which grows about 3 to 4 feet tall. Other types of fountain grass cultivars include ‘Cassian,’ ‘Little Bunny’, ‘Little Honey’, and ‘Moudry’.
Growing Fountain Grass
Growing fountain grass is easy. As with most ornamental grasses, fountain grass is extremely adaptable. Care of fountain grass is easy as well. It’s sometimes helpful to cut back the foliage in the spring prior to growth. Although not specifically a requirement for fountain grass, fertilizer can be applied as growth resumes in the spring. Established plants do not need regular watering, except during periods of drought. Fountain grass does well in nearly any type of soil; however, for greater results, fountain grass should be planted in fertile, well-drained soil. Fountain grass enjoys full sun but tolerates some light shade. Look for areas receiving full sun, as these plants prefer warm conditions. Warm-season grasses thrive in warmer temperatures ranging from 75 to 85 F. (24-29 C.).
Transplanting Fountain Grass
Transplanting fountain grass is not always necessary; however, it can be dug up and divided in areas where overcrowding may occur or if more plants are simply desired. Division usually depends on spacing or visual appearance. For instance, plants suffering from die-out in the center can be divided to improve their appearance. Division can be performed in early spring prior to new growth or after the growing season in the late summer or fall. Taking care of fountain grass is a rewarding undertaking for a gardener. By growing fountain grass, you add a low maintenance option to your garden.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月28日
Sprays of slender foliage and bright flower tips create a look of electric excitement on fiber optic grass. What is fiber optic grass? Fiber optic grass s not really a grass but is actually sedge. It is useful around moist spaces and ponds. The plant is easy to grow and has few pest or disease problems. Ornamental fiber optic grass is also deer resistant, which makes it a great addition to gardens prone to these often pesky plant eaters.
What is Fiber Optic Grass?
The plant is hardy in USDA plant hardiness zones 8-11. It can be potted up and moved indoors in other areas or just enjoy it as an annual.
Ornamental fiber optic grass forms a mound with sprays of errant stems springing from the center of the plant like a punk hairdo. The ends of the stems have tiny white flowers that give the overall effect of little lights at the end of the foliage. The plant is native to Western and Southern Europe and found in sandy to peaty zones, often near the sea or other water bodies. Try growing fiber optic grass in a container or water garden.
Growing Fiber Optic Grass
Plant the grass in a mixture of potting soil and peat moss for container plants. The grass grows best in full sun to partial sun. If you want to use it as part of a water garden, allow the roots to sit in deeper and deeper water levels to acclimate. The plant can be trimmed back if it sustains cold or other types of damage. Cut it to within 2 inches of the ground and it will re-sprout within a couple of weeks. Divide ornamental fiber optic grass every two to three years and plant each section for more of this interesting grass. Growing fiber optic grass from seed is easy. Simply sow in flats with a light dusting of soil. Keep the flat covered and moderately moist in a bright warm area. Allow the seedlings to grow a substantial root system before transplanting them.
Fiber Optic Plant Care
If you want a spectacular plant for soggy situations that brings grace and movement to any bed or display, ornamental fiber optic plant is a great choice. This is a low maintenance grass that just needs consistent moisture and good light to perform well. Re-pot or divide the plant in spring. Plants in the lower zones benefit from a layer of mulch around the root zone to protect them from cold snaps. Feed monthly with a half dilution of plant food up until fall. Then suspend food during the winter. Not much more is needed for fiber optic plant care.
Ornamental fiber optic grass can be overwintered in the colder zones. Bring the plant indoors to a draft free room with moderate light. Water once per week and keep a fan going to prevent humidity build up and the promotion of fungal issues.
What is Fiber Optic Grass?
The plant is hardy in USDA plant hardiness zones 8-11. It can be potted up and moved indoors in other areas or just enjoy it as an annual.
Ornamental fiber optic grass forms a mound with sprays of errant stems springing from the center of the plant like a punk hairdo. The ends of the stems have tiny white flowers that give the overall effect of little lights at the end of the foliage. The plant is native to Western and Southern Europe and found in sandy to peaty zones, often near the sea or other water bodies. Try growing fiber optic grass in a container or water garden.
Growing Fiber Optic Grass
Plant the grass in a mixture of potting soil and peat moss for container plants. The grass grows best in full sun to partial sun. If you want to use it as part of a water garden, allow the roots to sit in deeper and deeper water levels to acclimate. The plant can be trimmed back if it sustains cold or other types of damage. Cut it to within 2 inches of the ground and it will re-sprout within a couple of weeks. Divide ornamental fiber optic grass every two to three years and plant each section for more of this interesting grass. Growing fiber optic grass from seed is easy. Simply sow in flats with a light dusting of soil. Keep the flat covered and moderately moist in a bright warm area. Allow the seedlings to grow a substantial root system before transplanting them.
Fiber Optic Plant Care
If you want a spectacular plant for soggy situations that brings grace and movement to any bed or display, ornamental fiber optic plant is a great choice. This is a low maintenance grass that just needs consistent moisture and good light to perform well. Re-pot or divide the plant in spring. Plants in the lower zones benefit from a layer of mulch around the root zone to protect them from cold snaps. Feed monthly with a half dilution of plant food up until fall. Then suspend food during the winter. Not much more is needed for fiber optic plant care.
Ornamental fiber optic grass can be overwintered in the colder zones. Bring the plant indoors to a draft free room with moderate light. Water once per week and keep a fan going to prevent humidity build up and the promotion of fungal issues.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月28日
Devil’s club is a ferocious Pacific Northwest native plant. With its wicked spines and impressive height, it makes an interesting conversation point in the garden and as part of a natural landscape. Oplopanax devil’s club is perfect for shady areas of the garden where soil is nitrogen rich and moist. If you are looking for a unique, but native specimen, a devil’s club growing in your garden will provide a wonderful surprise and many seasons of interest.
Devil’s Club Information
Devil’s club plant (Oplopanax horridus) is a historical medicinal and herbal plant used for centuries by First Nations people. It is also known as devil’s walking stick or bear’s claw.
Oplopanax devil’s club is found from Alaska down through the western-most Canadian provinces and into Washington, Oregon, Idaho and Montana. It is also found in the Great Lakes area. The plant is well armored, with spines of many different sizes decorating the stems and even undersides of leaves. Leaves are reminiscent of maples and the plant can grow 3 to 9 feet (0.9-2.7 m.) in height. The plant also produces panicles of white flowers which become thick clusters of red berries, favored by bears and other wild animals.
Devil’s Club Plant Uses
Devil’s club has medicinal properties, but it’s also been known to be used for fishing lures, charcoal, and to make tattoo ink. Other uses include deodorant and lice control. No devil’s club information would be complete without mentioning some of its traditional uses. Tribal medicine indicates that the plant was used to treat colds, arthritis, digestive tract issues, ulcers, and even diabetes. It was also used to combat tuberculosis and as a purgative. Is devil’s club poisonous? All of the literature that I have read states it is used as a medicine but no mention is made of its toxicity. The plant is certainly safe to have in the landscape, but it does have fairly wicked spines, so ensure it is out of the reach of small children and pets. Outside of its medicinal uses, devil’s club was thought to have spiritual powers. Sticks of it were used to ward off evil spirits.
Devil’s Club Growing Tips
To enjoy this amazing plant in your garden, find it in a native garden center. Never harvest wild plants from nature. Choose a shady to semi-shady location where drainage is good but there is plenty of organic material to keep moisture in the soil. Mulch around the plant after installation. Keep the plant moderately moist but not soggy. Devil’s club doesn’t need much fertilizing, but adding some well-rotted compost or leaf litter around the root zone will enhance its health. Cut off any damaged or dead leaves as they occur. This cousin of wild ginger will drop leaves after a cold snap, but new ones form in early spring. Enjoy the strange architecture of the naked plant but be careful of those stinging spines!
Devil’s Club Information
Devil’s club plant (Oplopanax horridus) is a historical medicinal and herbal plant used for centuries by First Nations people. It is also known as devil’s walking stick or bear’s claw.
Oplopanax devil’s club is found from Alaska down through the western-most Canadian provinces and into Washington, Oregon, Idaho and Montana. It is also found in the Great Lakes area. The plant is well armored, with spines of many different sizes decorating the stems and even undersides of leaves. Leaves are reminiscent of maples and the plant can grow 3 to 9 feet (0.9-2.7 m.) in height. The plant also produces panicles of white flowers which become thick clusters of red berries, favored by bears and other wild animals.
Devil’s Club Plant Uses
Devil’s club has medicinal properties, but it’s also been known to be used for fishing lures, charcoal, and to make tattoo ink. Other uses include deodorant and lice control. No devil’s club information would be complete without mentioning some of its traditional uses. Tribal medicine indicates that the plant was used to treat colds, arthritis, digestive tract issues, ulcers, and even diabetes. It was also used to combat tuberculosis and as a purgative. Is devil’s club poisonous? All of the literature that I have read states it is used as a medicine but no mention is made of its toxicity. The plant is certainly safe to have in the landscape, but it does have fairly wicked spines, so ensure it is out of the reach of small children and pets. Outside of its medicinal uses, devil’s club was thought to have spiritual powers. Sticks of it were used to ward off evil spirits.
Devil’s Club Growing Tips
To enjoy this amazing plant in your garden, find it in a native garden center. Never harvest wild plants from nature. Choose a shady to semi-shady location where drainage is good but there is plenty of organic material to keep moisture in the soil. Mulch around the plant after installation. Keep the plant moderately moist but not soggy. Devil’s club doesn’t need much fertilizing, but adding some well-rotted compost or leaf litter around the root zone will enhance its health. Cut off any damaged or dead leaves as they occur. This cousin of wild ginger will drop leaves after a cold snap, but new ones form in early spring. Enjoy the strange architecture of the naked plant but be careful of those stinging spines!
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月28日
What is a crocodile fern? Native to Australia, crocodile fern (Microsorium musifolium ‘Crocydyllus’), sometimes known as crocodyllus fern, is an unusual plant with wrinkled, puckery leaves. The light green, segmented leaves are marked with dark green veins. Although the distinctive texture has been compared to a crocodile’s hide, the crocodile fern plant actually has a graceful, delicate appearance.
Facts about Crocodyllus Fern
What is a crocodile fern? Crocodile fern plant is a tropical fern suitable for growing outdoors only in the temperate climates of USDA plant hardiness zones 10 and 11 (and sometimes 9, with protection). Grow crocodile fern indoors if your climate has even a possibility of winter frost; chilly temps will kill the plant in a hurry. At maturity, crocodile fern reaches heights of 2 to 5 feet with a similar width. Although the broad green leaves appear to arise directly from the soil, the fronds actually grow from rhizomes that grow just under the surface.
Crocodile Fern Care
Growing crocodile ferns requires a bit more attention than your average houseplant, but crocodile fern care really isn’t involved or complicated. Crocodile ferns need regular water, but the plant won’t last long in soggy, poorly drained soil. A rich, well-drained potting soil such as a soil formulated for African violets works very well. To keep the plant happy, water whenever the surface of the potting mix feels slightly dry. Water until liquid drips through the drainage hole (always use a pot with a drainage hole!), then let the pot drain thoroughly. A kitchen or bathroom is an ideal environment because crocodile ferns benefit from humidity. Otherwise, increase humidity by placing the pot on a tray or plate with a layer of wet pebbles, but never let the bottom of the pot stand in the water.
Crocodile fern plants perform best in indirect or low light. A spot in front of a sunny window is too intense and may scorch the fronds. Cool to average room temperatures are fine, but avoid heating vents, drafts or air conditioners. To ensure your crocodyllus fern has adequate nutrients to keep it looking its best, provide a diluted water-soluble fertilizer or a special fern fertilizer once every month during spring and summer. Read the instructions carefully. Too much fertilizer won’t make your plant grow faster. In fact, it may kill the plant.
Facts about Crocodyllus Fern
What is a crocodile fern? Crocodile fern plant is a tropical fern suitable for growing outdoors only in the temperate climates of USDA plant hardiness zones 10 and 11 (and sometimes 9, with protection). Grow crocodile fern indoors if your climate has even a possibility of winter frost; chilly temps will kill the plant in a hurry. At maturity, crocodile fern reaches heights of 2 to 5 feet with a similar width. Although the broad green leaves appear to arise directly from the soil, the fronds actually grow from rhizomes that grow just under the surface.
Crocodile Fern Care
Growing crocodile ferns requires a bit more attention than your average houseplant, but crocodile fern care really isn’t involved or complicated. Crocodile ferns need regular water, but the plant won’t last long in soggy, poorly drained soil. A rich, well-drained potting soil such as a soil formulated for African violets works very well. To keep the plant happy, water whenever the surface of the potting mix feels slightly dry. Water until liquid drips through the drainage hole (always use a pot with a drainage hole!), then let the pot drain thoroughly. A kitchen or bathroom is an ideal environment because crocodile ferns benefit from humidity. Otherwise, increase humidity by placing the pot on a tray or plate with a layer of wet pebbles, but never let the bottom of the pot stand in the water.
Crocodile fern plants perform best in indirect or low light. A spot in front of a sunny window is too intense and may scorch the fronds. Cool to average room temperatures are fine, but avoid heating vents, drafts or air conditioners. To ensure your crocodyllus fern has adequate nutrients to keep it looking its best, provide a diluted water-soluble fertilizer or a special fern fertilizer once every month during spring and summer. Read the instructions carefully. Too much fertilizer won’t make your plant grow faster. In fact, it may kill the plant.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月28日
Unless you take precautions beforehand, that first bout of cold weather or frost will quickly kill off your coleus plants. Therefore, winterizing coleus is important.
Wintering a Coleus Plant
Overwintering coleus plants is actually quite easy. They can be dug up and overwintered indoors, or you can take cuttings from your healthy plants to make additional stock for next season’s garden.
How to Keep Coleus Through Winter
Given adequate light, coleus overwinters easily indoors. Dig up healthy plants in the fall (usually August), just before cold weather hits. Make sure you get as much of the root system as possible. Pot your plants in suitable containers with well-draining soil and water them thoroughly. It may also help to trim back the top half of growth to reduce shock, though this is not required. Allow your plants to acclimate for about a week or so prior to moving them inside. Then place the newly potted plants in a sunny location, such as a south- or southeast-facing window, and water only as needed. If desired, you can include half-strength fertilizer once a month with your regular watering regimen. You may also want to keep new growth pinched to maintain a bushier appearance. In spring you can replant the coleus back in the garden.
How to Overwinter Coleus Cuttings
Alternatively, you can learn how to keep coleus through winter by taking cuttings. Simply root three- to four-inch cuttings in late August (or prior to cold weather) by potting them up and moving them indoors. Remove the bottom leaves of each cutting and insert the cut ends into damp potting soil, peat moss, or sand. If desired, you can dip the ends in rooting hormone but you don’t have to since coleus plants root readily. Keep them moist in bright, indirect light for about six weeks, at which time they should have enough root growth for transplanting to larger pots. Likewise, you can keep them in the same pots. Either way, move them to a brighter location, such as a sunny window.
Wintering a Coleus Plant
Overwintering coleus plants is actually quite easy. They can be dug up and overwintered indoors, or you can take cuttings from your healthy plants to make additional stock for next season’s garden.
How to Keep Coleus Through Winter
Given adequate light, coleus overwinters easily indoors. Dig up healthy plants in the fall (usually August), just before cold weather hits. Make sure you get as much of the root system as possible. Pot your plants in suitable containers with well-draining soil and water them thoroughly. It may also help to trim back the top half of growth to reduce shock, though this is not required. Allow your plants to acclimate for about a week or so prior to moving them inside. Then place the newly potted plants in a sunny location, such as a south- or southeast-facing window, and water only as needed. If desired, you can include half-strength fertilizer once a month with your regular watering regimen. You may also want to keep new growth pinched to maintain a bushier appearance. In spring you can replant the coleus back in the garden.
How to Overwinter Coleus Cuttings
Alternatively, you can learn how to keep coleus through winter by taking cuttings. Simply root three- to four-inch cuttings in late August (or prior to cold weather) by potting them up and moving them indoors. Remove the bottom leaves of each cutting and insert the cut ends into damp potting soil, peat moss, or sand. If desired, you can dip the ends in rooting hormone but you don’t have to since coleus plants root readily. Keep them moist in bright, indirect light for about six weeks, at which time they should have enough root growth for transplanting to larger pots. Likewise, you can keep them in the same pots. Either way, move them to a brighter location, such as a sunny window.
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