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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月27日
Artemisia is in the Aster family and mostly belongs to the dry regions of the Northern Hemisphere. It is a plant that is not used to the cold, freezing temperatures of the colder zones in the area and may need special care to withstand a winter. Winter care for Artemisia is fairly minimal, but there are few tips and tricks to remember so the plant has the best chance of survival over the cold season. This article will help with information on caring for Artemisia over winter.
Is Winter Care for Artemisia Necessary?
Most Artemisia plants are hardy to United States Department of Agriculture zones 5 to 10 and occasionally down to 4 with protection. These tough little plants are primarily herbaceous and many have medicinal and culinary properties. Most Artemisia in winter do quite well, shedding some leaves but, otherwise, the root zone stays safely underground. Plants that are growing in extremely northern climates, however, can have severe issues and the roots can be killed by a deep frost, so some steps need to be taken to protect the plant.
There are ways of winterizing Artemisia in the ground or in containers. Which method you choose will depend upon where you live and how severe your winter conditions will get. One of the first questions to ask yourself is, “what is my zone?” Before you can decide how much effort you need to put into saving your plant, the region in which you live has to be vetted. Since most Artemisia can live in USDA zone 5, just a little bit of Artemisia winter care is required. But if you live in zone 4 or lower, it is probably a good idea to keep the plant in a container, or dig it up in fall and move it indoors.
Store these plants in a frost free area, and water once per month deeply, but no more, as the plant will not be actively growing. When caring for Artemisia over the winter, place the plant where it receives medium light. Begin to increase water as the temperatures warm up. Gradually reintroduce the plant to outdoor conditions and replant in the ground if you wish or continue growing in the container.
In-ground Artemisia Winter Care
Plants in regions that are warm or temperate enough to sustain Artemisia outdoors may still want to do a little winter preparation. The plants will benefit from 2 to 3 inches of organic mulch, such as fine bark chips, over the root zone. This will act like a blanket and protect the roots from any sudden or sustained freezes. If a really bad freeze is coming, use a blanket, burlap, bubble wrap or any other cover to make a cocoon over the plant. This is a cheap and effective way of winterizing Artemisia or any sensitive plant. Don’t forget to remove it when the danger has passed. Make sure to water if the winter is dry. Artemisia are very drought tolerant but need occasional moisture. Evergreen Artemisia in winter especially need some moisture, as their leaves will lose moisture from the foliage. If your plant has died back due to winter and does not appear to be coming back, it may not be too late. Some Artemisia in winter naturally lose their leaves and new foliage may be forming. Additionally, if the root ball was not killed, you can probably get the plant to come back. Use a clean, sharp pruner and gently scrape the woody stems and trunk. If you see green under the bark, the plant is still alive and there is a chance.
Remove any plant material that is brown after scraping. This may mean cutting the plant back to the main stem, but there is still a chance all is not lost. Make sure the plant is in a location that is well draining and receives some moisture during spring as it battles its way back. Fertilize with a gentle formula, such as a diluted mixture of fish fertilizer and water. Feed the plant once per month for two months. Gradually, you should see the plant come back to itself if the roots survived and produce new foliage. Caring for Artemisia over the winter is a simple, straightforward process that can save these unique plants.
Is Winter Care for Artemisia Necessary?
Most Artemisia plants are hardy to United States Department of Agriculture zones 5 to 10 and occasionally down to 4 with protection. These tough little plants are primarily herbaceous and many have medicinal and culinary properties. Most Artemisia in winter do quite well, shedding some leaves but, otherwise, the root zone stays safely underground. Plants that are growing in extremely northern climates, however, can have severe issues and the roots can be killed by a deep frost, so some steps need to be taken to protect the plant.
There are ways of winterizing Artemisia in the ground or in containers. Which method you choose will depend upon where you live and how severe your winter conditions will get. One of the first questions to ask yourself is, “what is my zone?” Before you can decide how much effort you need to put into saving your plant, the region in which you live has to be vetted. Since most Artemisia can live in USDA zone 5, just a little bit of Artemisia winter care is required. But if you live in zone 4 or lower, it is probably a good idea to keep the plant in a container, or dig it up in fall and move it indoors.
Store these plants in a frost free area, and water once per month deeply, but no more, as the plant will not be actively growing. When caring for Artemisia over the winter, place the plant where it receives medium light. Begin to increase water as the temperatures warm up. Gradually reintroduce the plant to outdoor conditions and replant in the ground if you wish or continue growing in the container.
In-ground Artemisia Winter Care
Plants in regions that are warm or temperate enough to sustain Artemisia outdoors may still want to do a little winter preparation. The plants will benefit from 2 to 3 inches of organic mulch, such as fine bark chips, over the root zone. This will act like a blanket and protect the roots from any sudden or sustained freezes. If a really bad freeze is coming, use a blanket, burlap, bubble wrap or any other cover to make a cocoon over the plant. This is a cheap and effective way of winterizing Artemisia or any sensitive plant. Don’t forget to remove it when the danger has passed. Make sure to water if the winter is dry. Artemisia are very drought tolerant but need occasional moisture. Evergreen Artemisia in winter especially need some moisture, as their leaves will lose moisture from the foliage. If your plant has died back due to winter and does not appear to be coming back, it may not be too late. Some Artemisia in winter naturally lose their leaves and new foliage may be forming. Additionally, if the root ball was not killed, you can probably get the plant to come back. Use a clean, sharp pruner and gently scrape the woody stems and trunk. If you see green under the bark, the plant is still alive and there is a chance.
Remove any plant material that is brown after scraping. This may mean cutting the plant back to the main stem, but there is still a chance all is not lost. Make sure the plant is in a location that is well draining and receives some moisture during spring as it battles its way back. Fertilize with a gentle formula, such as a diluted mixture of fish fertilizer and water. Feed the plant once per month for two months. Gradually, you should see the plant come back to itself if the roots survived and produce new foliage. Caring for Artemisia over the winter is a simple, straightforward process that can save these unique plants.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月27日
Herbs are fun, easy to grow plants, celebrated for their culinary and medicinal uses. One of the lesser known or rather underutilized in some regions, is the southernwood herb plant, also known as southernwood Artemisia. Read on to learn more.
What is Southernwood Artemisia?
Native growing southernwood herb plant can be found in regions of Spain and Italy and has since been naturalized in the United States where it grows wild. This member of Asteraceae is related to European wormwood or absinthe.
Southernwood Artemisia (Artemisia abrotanum) is a woody, perennial herb with gray-green, fern-like leaves that, when crushed, emits a sweet lemony aroma. This gray-green foliage is slightly haired, growing less so as the season progresses. Leaves are small, alternate with yellow-white dioecious flowers that bloom in late summer in southern regions. Artemisia grown in northern areas rarely flowers. Southernwood herb plants grow to a height of between 3 and 5 feet tall with a spread of about 2 feet across. There are over 200 species in the Artemisia genus. Depending upon the variety, the essential oil in the crushed leaves may emit an aroma of lemon, as mentioned, or even camphor or tangerine. With such a dizzying array, southernwood Artemisia has just as many aliases. Southernwood has been referred to as Applering, Boy’s Love, European Sage, Garden Sagebrush, and Lad’s Love due to its reputation as an aphrodisiac. It’s also known as Lover’s Plant, Maid’s Ruin, Our Lord’s Wood, Southern Wormwood and Old Man Wormwood in reference to the plants rather tattered looking winter foliage, which protects it from harsh winds in northern climates. The name ‘Southernwood’ has Old English roots and means “woody plant that comes from the south.” The genus name, Artemisia, is derived from the Greek word “abros,” meaning delicate and stems from Artemis, the Goddess of chastity. Artemis was also known as Diana, the Mother of all Creatures and Goddess of the Herbalist, the Hunt and Wild things.
How to Grow Southernwood Artemisia
Southernwood plant care is similar to that of most herbs hailing from the Mediterranean. These herbs like full to partial sun, well draining soil, and adequate moisture although they are tolerant of drought. Growing southernwood is usually cultivated for its essential oil, which contains absinthol and is used in herbal teas, potpourris or medicinally. The young shoots were used to add flavor to pastries and puddings, while branches were used to dye wool a deep yellow hue. Medicinally, southernwood herb plants were used as an antiseptic, astringent, stimulant and tonic, and have also been used to fight coughs, tumors and cancers. There is some thought that southernwood Artemisia can also be used as an insect repellent. When used in a potpourri or sachet, ancient cultural myth implies that southernwood’s aroma will summon one’s beloved. Maybe it won’t summon your beloved; in any case, southernwood plant is a unique specimen to add to the home gardener’s collection in the herb garden.
What is Southernwood Artemisia?
Native growing southernwood herb plant can be found in regions of Spain and Italy and has since been naturalized in the United States where it grows wild. This member of Asteraceae is related to European wormwood or absinthe.
Southernwood Artemisia (Artemisia abrotanum) is a woody, perennial herb with gray-green, fern-like leaves that, when crushed, emits a sweet lemony aroma. This gray-green foliage is slightly haired, growing less so as the season progresses. Leaves are small, alternate with yellow-white dioecious flowers that bloom in late summer in southern regions. Artemisia grown in northern areas rarely flowers. Southernwood herb plants grow to a height of between 3 and 5 feet tall with a spread of about 2 feet across. There are over 200 species in the Artemisia genus. Depending upon the variety, the essential oil in the crushed leaves may emit an aroma of lemon, as mentioned, or even camphor or tangerine. With such a dizzying array, southernwood Artemisia has just as many aliases. Southernwood has been referred to as Applering, Boy’s Love, European Sage, Garden Sagebrush, and Lad’s Love due to its reputation as an aphrodisiac. It’s also known as Lover’s Plant, Maid’s Ruin, Our Lord’s Wood, Southern Wormwood and Old Man Wormwood in reference to the plants rather tattered looking winter foliage, which protects it from harsh winds in northern climates. The name ‘Southernwood’ has Old English roots and means “woody plant that comes from the south.” The genus name, Artemisia, is derived from the Greek word “abros,” meaning delicate and stems from Artemis, the Goddess of chastity. Artemis was also known as Diana, the Mother of all Creatures and Goddess of the Herbalist, the Hunt and Wild things.
How to Grow Southernwood Artemisia
Southernwood plant care is similar to that of most herbs hailing from the Mediterranean. These herbs like full to partial sun, well draining soil, and adequate moisture although they are tolerant of drought. Growing southernwood is usually cultivated for its essential oil, which contains absinthol and is used in herbal teas, potpourris or medicinally. The young shoots were used to add flavor to pastries and puddings, while branches were used to dye wool a deep yellow hue. Medicinally, southernwood herb plants were used as an antiseptic, astringent, stimulant and tonic, and have also been used to fight coughs, tumors and cancers. There is some thought that southernwood Artemisia can also be used as an insect repellent. When used in a potpourri or sachet, ancient cultural myth implies that southernwood’s aroma will summon one’s beloved. Maybe it won’t summon your beloved; in any case, southernwood plant is a unique specimen to add to the home gardener’s collection in the herb garden.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月27日
When you’re looking for something attractive to quickly fill in a large area, then you can’t go wrong with ajuga (Ajuga reptans), also known as carpet bugleweed. This creeping evergreen plant quickly fills in empty areas, smothering out weeds while adding exceptional foliage color and blooms. It’s also good for erosion control. The flowers of bugleweed are normally bluish to purple but they can be found in white as well. And in addition to the traditional green foliage, this ground cover can also provide the landscape with stunning copper or purple-colored foliage too, making it great for adding year-round interest. There’s even a variegated form available.
Growing Ajuga Bugleweed
Ajuga ground cover spreads through runners, and as a member of the mint family, it can get out of control without proper care. However, when placed in strategic locations, its quick growth and mat-forming trait can provide instant coverage with only a few plants. One good way to keep this jewel in bounds is by enclosing your garden beds with edging. Another way, which I’ve found to be useful, is by planting ajuga plants in a somewhat sunny area. Ajuga is typically grown in shady locations but will thrive just as well in the sun, albeit more slowly, making it much easier to control. The plant also likes fairly moist soil but is remarkably adaptable and will even tolerate a little drought.
Caring for Carpet Bugle Plants
Once established, ajuga plants requires little care. Unless it’s really dry, ajuga can usually sustain itself with normal rainfall and there’s no need to fertilize this plant. Of course, if it’s located in the sun, you may need to water it more often. It is self-seeding, so if you don’t want any unexpected pop-ups, deadheading would definitely help. Removing some of the runners periodically can also help keep this ground cover in line. Runners are also easy to redirect. Simply lift them up and point them in the right direction and they will follow. You can also cut the runners and replant them elsewhere. Division may be necessary every few years in spring to prevent overcrowding and crown rot.
Growing Ajuga Bugleweed
Ajuga ground cover spreads through runners, and as a member of the mint family, it can get out of control without proper care. However, when placed in strategic locations, its quick growth and mat-forming trait can provide instant coverage with only a few plants. One good way to keep this jewel in bounds is by enclosing your garden beds with edging. Another way, which I’ve found to be useful, is by planting ajuga plants in a somewhat sunny area. Ajuga is typically grown in shady locations but will thrive just as well in the sun, albeit more slowly, making it much easier to control. The plant also likes fairly moist soil but is remarkably adaptable and will even tolerate a little drought.
Caring for Carpet Bugle Plants
Once established, ajuga plants requires little care. Unless it’s really dry, ajuga can usually sustain itself with normal rainfall and there’s no need to fertilize this plant. Of course, if it’s located in the sun, you may need to water it more often. It is self-seeding, so if you don’t want any unexpected pop-ups, deadheading would definitely help. Removing some of the runners periodically can also help keep this ground cover in line. Runners are also easy to redirect. Simply lift them up and point them in the right direction and they will follow. You can also cut the runners and replant them elsewhere. Division may be necessary every few years in spring to prevent overcrowding and crown rot.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月27日
Ajuga (Ajuga spp.), also known as carpet bugle or bugleweed, is an adaptable, low growing plant that forms a thick carpet of foliage, often with a grayish-green, bronze or reddish tint. The plant is covered with springtime blooms of blue, purple, violet, white or pink, depending on the variety. Although most varieties are relatively well-behaved, Ajuga reptans is a rambunctious cultivar that spreads by long runners. It tends to escape its boundaries and invades flower beds and lawns if it isn’t carefully contained. Ajuga weed control is tricky, and tackling ajuga plants in lawns is especially challenging. Read on for more information about getting rid of bugleweed.
How to Control Ajuga
Below are the most effective methods for treating bugleweeds that have become invasive. Hand pulling – It’s always best to manage unwanted plants without use of chemicals whenever possible. If you want to remove ajuga in an environmentally friendly manner, the best solution is pulling – and a lot of it. Watering the area the day before will make ajuga easier to pull, as will loosening the soil around the plants with a spade or garden fork. Use a weeding fork to dig deep under the roots for more thorough ajuga weed control. Take your time and remove as many roots as possible because even small pieces that remain in the soil can take root and spread. Keep a careful watch on the area and pull new plants as soon as they appear. It will take time, but if you are persistent, you will eventually gain the upper hand.
Dispose of the plants properly and don’t toss them on your compost pile; they’ll take root and you’ll be back at square one – or worse. Homemade herbicide – Another option for getting rid of bugleweed is to create a homemade, environmentally friendly herbicide by mixing equal parts very hot water and vinegar. Stir in a small amount of salt and a few drops of liquid dish soap. Apply the solution with a spray bottle or a garden sprayer. Black plastic – If the ajuga isn’t in your lawn, you may be able to smother large patches with black plastic. Secure the plastic with bricks or rocks and leave it alone for two weeks so the sun can “bake” the ajuga. If the plants are still alive, leave the plastic in place for an additional two weeks. Chemical herbicides – If all else fails, ajuga weed control may require an herbicide such as Round-up. If the ajuga is in your lawn, read the label carefully and be sure to use a non-selective herbicide that will kill the ajuga without harming your lawn.
How to Control Ajuga
Below are the most effective methods for treating bugleweeds that have become invasive. Hand pulling – It’s always best to manage unwanted plants without use of chemicals whenever possible. If you want to remove ajuga in an environmentally friendly manner, the best solution is pulling – and a lot of it. Watering the area the day before will make ajuga easier to pull, as will loosening the soil around the plants with a spade or garden fork. Use a weeding fork to dig deep under the roots for more thorough ajuga weed control. Take your time and remove as many roots as possible because even small pieces that remain in the soil can take root and spread. Keep a careful watch on the area and pull new plants as soon as they appear. It will take time, but if you are persistent, you will eventually gain the upper hand.
Dispose of the plants properly and don’t toss them on your compost pile; they’ll take root and you’ll be back at square one – or worse. Homemade herbicide – Another option for getting rid of bugleweed is to create a homemade, environmentally friendly herbicide by mixing equal parts very hot water and vinegar. Stir in a small amount of salt and a few drops of liquid dish soap. Apply the solution with a spray bottle or a garden sprayer. Black plastic – If the ajuga isn’t in your lawn, you may be able to smother large patches with black plastic. Secure the plastic with bricks or rocks and leave it alone for two weeks so the sun can “bake” the ajuga. If the plants are still alive, leave the plastic in place for an additional two weeks. Chemical herbicides – If all else fails, ajuga weed control may require an herbicide such as Round-up. If the ajuga is in your lawn, read the label carefully and be sure to use a non-selective herbicide that will kill the ajuga without harming your lawn.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月27日
Ajuga – also known as bugleweed – is a tough, low-growing ground cover. It offers bright, semi-evergreen foliage and showy flower spikes in amazing shades of blue. The vigorous plant grows in a carpet of shiny foliage and massed flowers, swiftly forming dense mats that require little maintenance. Ajuga plant propagation is so easy that the plants easily become invasive, rambling across the lawn and into places in the garden reserved for other plants. Read on for information about propagating ajuga plants.
Propagation of Ajuga Plants
Growing ajuga is easier than getting rid of it, so take its rapid growth into account before you decide on ajuga plant propagation. You’ll first want to prepare a garden space to plant your new ajuga. You’ll succeed best at ajuga plant propagation if you select a sunny area or one that is in light shade for the plant’s new home. Ajuga won’t flower well in full shade. Ajuga plants do best in moist, fertile soil. It’s a good idea to work in humus or other organic material to the soil before planting time.
How to Propagate Bugleweed
You can start propagating ajuga plants from plant seeds or by division.
Seeds
One way to start propagating ajuga plants is by planting seeds. If you decide to do this, sow ajuga plant seeds in containers in fall or spring. Just cover the seeds with a thin layer of compost and keep the soil moist. The seeds germinate in a month or less. Prick out the individual plants and place in larger containers. In summer, move the young plants to your garden beds.
Division
Ajuga spread by underground runners called stolons. These runners root the plant in nearby soil and form clumps. The ajuga clumps will eventually get crowded and begin to lose vigor. This is the time to lift and divide them in order to obtain additional ajuga plants.Propagation of ajuga by division is an operation for early spring or fall. It’s a simple process. All you have to do is dig out the clumps and pull or cut them apart into smaller sections, then replant them in another location. You can also simply cut out big sections of plant mats – like lawn sod – and move them to a new location.
Propagation of Ajuga Plants
Growing ajuga is easier than getting rid of it, so take its rapid growth into account before you decide on ajuga plant propagation. You’ll first want to prepare a garden space to plant your new ajuga. You’ll succeed best at ajuga plant propagation if you select a sunny area or one that is in light shade for the plant’s new home. Ajuga won’t flower well in full shade. Ajuga plants do best in moist, fertile soil. It’s a good idea to work in humus or other organic material to the soil before planting time.
How to Propagate Bugleweed
You can start propagating ajuga plants from plant seeds or by division.
Seeds
One way to start propagating ajuga plants is by planting seeds. If you decide to do this, sow ajuga plant seeds in containers in fall or spring. Just cover the seeds with a thin layer of compost and keep the soil moist. The seeds germinate in a month or less. Prick out the individual plants and place in larger containers. In summer, move the young plants to your garden beds.
Division
Ajuga spread by underground runners called stolons. These runners root the plant in nearby soil and form clumps. The ajuga clumps will eventually get crowded and begin to lose vigor. This is the time to lift and divide them in order to obtain additional ajuga plants.Propagation of ajuga by division is an operation for early spring or fall. It’s a simple process. All you have to do is dig out the clumps and pull or cut them apart into smaller sections, then replant them in another location. You can also simply cut out big sections of plant mats – like lawn sod – and move them to a new location.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月27日
Sometimes known as succulent sesame, Uncarina is a striking shrubby plant, large enough to be considered a small tree in its native Madagascar. Uncarina is an otherworldly-looking plant with a swollen, succulent base, thick, twisty branches and fuzzy leaves. If this smattering of Uncarina information has piqued your interest, read on to learn more about growing Uncarina and caring for Uncarina plants.
Uncarina Information
The color of Uncarina blooms, which vary depending on the species, ranges from various shades or orange-yellow or golden-yellow, or even purple or rose. One popular species, Uncarina grandidieri, produces bright yellow blooms that resemble petunias with contrasting dark throats. Similarly, the shape of the leaves depends on the species. Uncarina is also known as claw plant or mousetrap tree for a very good reason – the seed pods are armed with stout, hooked barbs that frequently grab unsuspecting animals unlucky enough to pass by. If you’re daring enough to try growing this unusual, somewhat eerie plant, don’t touch the pods, as the barbs are extremely difficult to remove from fingers.
Growing Uncarina Plants
Uncarina is a deciduous shrub that can be grown in a container, or in the ground where is can reach heights of 10 to 12 feet. If you opt to grow Uncarina in a container, a smaller pot will keep growth in check. Propagating Unicarina is done via cuttings or seeds.
Caring for Uncarina Plants
Uncarina plants require plenty of bright light, although the plant will tolerate light shade when grown outdoors in sunny climates. Uncarina requires well-draining soil; indoor plants do well in a potting mix formulated for cactus. Uncarina care is uninvolved, as Uncarina is relatively drought tolerant once established. It benefits from regular water during its growing period, but should be kept dry during winter dormancy. This tropical plant won’t tolerate frost.
Uncarina Information
The color of Uncarina blooms, which vary depending on the species, ranges from various shades or orange-yellow or golden-yellow, or even purple or rose. One popular species, Uncarina grandidieri, produces bright yellow blooms that resemble petunias with contrasting dark throats. Similarly, the shape of the leaves depends on the species. Uncarina is also known as claw plant or mousetrap tree for a very good reason – the seed pods are armed with stout, hooked barbs that frequently grab unsuspecting animals unlucky enough to pass by. If you’re daring enough to try growing this unusual, somewhat eerie plant, don’t touch the pods, as the barbs are extremely difficult to remove from fingers.
Growing Uncarina Plants
Uncarina is a deciduous shrub that can be grown in a container, or in the ground where is can reach heights of 10 to 12 feet. If you opt to grow Uncarina in a container, a smaller pot will keep growth in check. Propagating Unicarina is done via cuttings or seeds.
Caring for Uncarina Plants
Uncarina plants require plenty of bright light, although the plant will tolerate light shade when grown outdoors in sunny climates. Uncarina requires well-draining soil; indoor plants do well in a potting mix formulated for cactus. Uncarina care is uninvolved, as Uncarina is relatively drought tolerant once established. It benefits from regular water during its growing period, but should be kept dry during winter dormancy. This tropical plant won’t tolerate frost.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月27日
Holiday cacti bloom around the season for which they are named. Therefore, it comes as no surprise that the Thanksgiving cactus blooms around November. The Thanksgiving holiday cactus is an easy to grow interior plant. Both Christmas and Thanksgiving cacti are in the genus Schlumbergera and are native to the tropical forests of Brazil. They are attractive plants commonly sold and given as gifts around the holidays but are also easy to propagate from stem cuttings. Read on for Thanksgiving holiday cactus information that will keep you growing and giving away these plants for a lifetime.
Thanksgiving Cactus Information
Schlumbergera truncata is the Thanksgiving cactus. It is called a leaf cactus but is not a true cactus. Rather it is an epiphyte, those plants which live on other plants. The leaves are broad and flat with slight serrations on the edges in the Thanksgiving vs. Christmas cactus, which has smoother edges. The flowers that appear in fall are similar to fuchsia blooms and come in hues of yellow, white, pink and red.
These plants are classed as Zygocactus, which some scholars call a misnomer, while others shout it from the roof tops. Whatever type of plant it is, the Thanksgiving holiday cactus is a proven winner, with blooms that last for 2 to 4 months and an easy-going nature. The only real problem with the plant is its need to be fooled in order to bloom again the next year.
Forcing Thanksgiving cactus to bloom requires cool temperatures and shorter daylight hours. That means if you live in a region with no frost, you can leave the cactus outside to experience just what is naturally occurring. Those of us who live where temperatures get cold will have to create false conditions indoors to protect them from the cold, but can experience cool temps down to 40 degrees Fahrenheit (4 C.) and reduced light, including artificial light. Start forcing Thanksgiving cactus to bloom in late summer to early fall.
Thanksgiving Cactus Plant Care
One of the most crucial aspects of Thanksgiving cactus plant care is water. These tropical plants should not be allowed to dry out; however, excess water at the roots can cause rotting and fungal issues. As an epiphyte, it often has exposed roots and gathers most of its moisture through humidity in the air. Potted plants need well-draining soil and good drainage. Water thoroughly and then allow the top 1/3 of soil dry out before you water again.
Growing Thanksgiving Cactus Cuttings
The plants are easy to propagate and multiply. Snip off a stem with 4 to 5 sections and leaves. Dust the end with fungicide and allow it to callus for a week in a dry location. Fill a small clay pot with vermiculite or perlite mixed with potting soil. Alternatively, you can use damp sand. Push the callused end into the mixture and place the pot in bright but indirect light. Tent over the cutting with a plastic bag and remove it for an hour each day to let in air. In approximately 3 weeks, the cutting will have rooted and you will have a brand new plant. Growing Thanksgiving cactus to blooming stage will take a couple of years.
Thanksgiving Cactus Information
Schlumbergera truncata is the Thanksgiving cactus. It is called a leaf cactus but is not a true cactus. Rather it is an epiphyte, those plants which live on other plants. The leaves are broad and flat with slight serrations on the edges in the Thanksgiving vs. Christmas cactus, which has smoother edges. The flowers that appear in fall are similar to fuchsia blooms and come in hues of yellow, white, pink and red.
These plants are classed as Zygocactus, which some scholars call a misnomer, while others shout it from the roof tops. Whatever type of plant it is, the Thanksgiving holiday cactus is a proven winner, with blooms that last for 2 to 4 months and an easy-going nature. The only real problem with the plant is its need to be fooled in order to bloom again the next year.
Forcing Thanksgiving cactus to bloom requires cool temperatures and shorter daylight hours. That means if you live in a region with no frost, you can leave the cactus outside to experience just what is naturally occurring. Those of us who live where temperatures get cold will have to create false conditions indoors to protect them from the cold, but can experience cool temps down to 40 degrees Fahrenheit (4 C.) and reduced light, including artificial light. Start forcing Thanksgiving cactus to bloom in late summer to early fall.
Thanksgiving Cactus Plant Care
One of the most crucial aspects of Thanksgiving cactus plant care is water. These tropical plants should not be allowed to dry out; however, excess water at the roots can cause rotting and fungal issues. As an epiphyte, it often has exposed roots and gathers most of its moisture through humidity in the air. Potted plants need well-draining soil and good drainage. Water thoroughly and then allow the top 1/3 of soil dry out before you water again.
Growing Thanksgiving Cactus Cuttings
The plants are easy to propagate and multiply. Snip off a stem with 4 to 5 sections and leaves. Dust the end with fungicide and allow it to callus for a week in a dry location. Fill a small clay pot with vermiculite or perlite mixed with potting soil. Alternatively, you can use damp sand. Push the callused end into the mixture and place the pot in bright but indirect light. Tent over the cutting with a plastic bag and remove it for an hour each day to let in air. In approximately 3 weeks, the cutting will have rooted and you will have a brand new plant. Growing Thanksgiving cactus to blooming stage will take a couple of years.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月27日
If you’re looking for an easy succulent to grow indoors, opt for the string of beads (Senecio rowleyanus) plant. In addition to its carefree growth habit, this interesting houseplant can provide a unique focal point in the home. Sprawling over the edges of containers or hanging baskets, the string of beads plant resembles a beaded necklace with its fleshy green, pea-like foliage. Learn more about growing string of beads houseplant so you can also enjoy its unique characteristics and ease of care.
What is a String of Beads Houseplant?
Also called rosary string of beads or string of pearls plant, this creeping succulent is an odd looking plant that many people enjoy adding to their indoor gardens. Though the flowers may seem small and unattractive to some people, if they’re even lucky enough to get them, others find the faint white blooms (which smell a bit like cinnamon) quite welcome. Still, it’s the thin thread-like stems and fleshy round, bead-like leaves that make this unusual houseplant a great addition to the home. Learning how to grow a string of pearls houseplant is extremely easy.
How to Grow a String of Pearls Houseplant
The string of pearls plant grows well in bright light, including sunlight. You should provide this string of beads houseplant with average indoor temperatures (around 72 F./22 C.) throughout its active growth. During its dormancy, however, you’ll need to provide cooler conditions, generally somewhere between 50 to 55 F. (10-13 C.). Give this houseplant a well-draining sandy soil, preferably the type most suitable for growing cacti and succulent plants. Pot your plant in a hanging basket so its trailing foliage can hang down.
String of Pearls Care
As with most succulent plants, the string of beads requires little care. However, while there’s little maintenance involved with growing a rosary string of beads plant, you will need to provide it with some care. This succulent plant is drought tolerant, surviving long periods without water. In fact, the plant’s water-storing abilities allow it to be watered thoroughly one week and then pretty much forgotten the next week or two. Watering too often can increase the chances of root rot. So be sure to let the soil dry out at least half an inch or so between waterings. In winter, cut back watering to about once monthly. Occasionally, you may find that pruning becomes necessary as part of your string of pearls care in order to maintain its size or appearance. This is simple to do. Trim off any dead stems and pearls, as well as any stems that have lost a lot of their ‘beads.’ Pruning back will help promote fuller, more compact plants.
Even better than its ease of care is the fact that you can share the plant with others. Whenever pruning is in order, you can take advantage of the plant’s easy propagation. Simply place a cutting or two in a pot of soil and they will easily take root. The string of beads houseplant makes an excellent conversation piece. Your family, friends, and neighbors will love it as much as you will.
What is a String of Beads Houseplant?
Also called rosary string of beads or string of pearls plant, this creeping succulent is an odd looking plant that many people enjoy adding to their indoor gardens. Though the flowers may seem small and unattractive to some people, if they’re even lucky enough to get them, others find the faint white blooms (which smell a bit like cinnamon) quite welcome. Still, it’s the thin thread-like stems and fleshy round, bead-like leaves that make this unusual houseplant a great addition to the home. Learning how to grow a string of pearls houseplant is extremely easy.
How to Grow a String of Pearls Houseplant
The string of pearls plant grows well in bright light, including sunlight. You should provide this string of beads houseplant with average indoor temperatures (around 72 F./22 C.) throughout its active growth. During its dormancy, however, you’ll need to provide cooler conditions, generally somewhere between 50 to 55 F. (10-13 C.). Give this houseplant a well-draining sandy soil, preferably the type most suitable for growing cacti and succulent plants. Pot your plant in a hanging basket so its trailing foliage can hang down.
String of Pearls Care
As with most succulent plants, the string of beads requires little care. However, while there’s little maintenance involved with growing a rosary string of beads plant, you will need to provide it with some care. This succulent plant is drought tolerant, surviving long periods without water. In fact, the plant’s water-storing abilities allow it to be watered thoroughly one week and then pretty much forgotten the next week or two. Watering too often can increase the chances of root rot. So be sure to let the soil dry out at least half an inch or so between waterings. In winter, cut back watering to about once monthly. Occasionally, you may find that pruning becomes necessary as part of your string of pearls care in order to maintain its size or appearance. This is simple to do. Trim off any dead stems and pearls, as well as any stems that have lost a lot of their ‘beads.’ Pruning back will help promote fuller, more compact plants.
Even better than its ease of care is the fact that you can share the plant with others. Whenever pruning is in order, you can take advantage of the plant’s easy propagation. Simply place a cutting or two in a pot of soil and they will easily take root. The string of beads houseplant makes an excellent conversation piece. Your family, friends, and neighbors will love it as much as you will.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月27日
Saguaro cactus (Carnegiea gigantea) blossoms are the state flower of Arizona. The cactus is a very slow growing plant, which may add only 1 to 1 ½ inches in the first eight years of life. The Saguaro grows arms or lateral stems but it may take up to 75 years to produce the first one. Saguaro are very long lived and many found in the desert are 175 years old. It is likely that rather than growing Saguaro cactus in the home garden, you may find yourself the becoming owner of a well established Saguaro cactus when you buy a new home or build a home on land where Saguaro cactus already grow.
Saguaro Cactus Characteristics
Saguaro have barrel-shaped bodies with peripheral stems called arms. The exterior of the trunk is pleated due to the way it grows. The pleats expand, allowing the cactus to gather extra water in the rainy season and storing it in its tissues. An adult cactus may weigh 6 tons or more when filled with water and requires a strong internal support skeleton of connected ribs. A young growing Saguaro cactus may only be a few inches tall as ten year old plants and take decades to resemble the adults.
Where Do Saguaro Cactus Grow?
These cacti are native to and only grow in the Sonoran Desert. Saguaro are not found in the entire desert but only in areas that don’t freeze and at certain elevations. The freezing point is one of the most important considerations of where do Saguaro cactus grow. The cactus plants are found from sea level up to 4,000 feet. If they are growing above 4,000 feet, the plants survive only on south slopes where there are fewer freezes of shorter duration. Saguaro cactus plants are important parts of the desert ecology, both as habitat and as food.
Saguaro Cactus Care
It is not legal to procure a Saguaro cactus for home cultivation by digging it out of the desert. Beyond that, mature Saguaro cactus plants almost always die when transplanted. Saguaro cactus babies grow under the protection of nurse trees. The cactus will continue to grow and often its nurse tree will expire. It is thought the cactus may cause the nurse tree to die by competing for resources. The nurse trees provide Saguaro cactus babies with shelter from the harsh rays of the sun and dispersing moisture from evaporation. Saguaro cactus needs to grow in well-drained grit and receive low levels of water, with the soil drying out completely between irrigation. Annually fertilizing with cactus food in spring will help the plant complete its growth cycle. There are common cactus pests, such as scale and mealybugs, that will require manual or chemical controls.
Saguaro Cactus Blossoms
Saguaro cactus are slow to develop and may be 35 years of age or more before they produce the first flower. The flowers bloom in May until June and are a creamy white color and about 3 inches across. The Saguaro cactus blossoms only open at night and close in the day, which means they are pollinated by moths, bats and other nocturnal creatures.. The flowers are generally located at the end of the arms but may occasionally decorate the sides of the cactus.
Saguaro Cactus Characteristics
Saguaro have barrel-shaped bodies with peripheral stems called arms. The exterior of the trunk is pleated due to the way it grows. The pleats expand, allowing the cactus to gather extra water in the rainy season and storing it in its tissues. An adult cactus may weigh 6 tons or more when filled with water and requires a strong internal support skeleton of connected ribs. A young growing Saguaro cactus may only be a few inches tall as ten year old plants and take decades to resemble the adults.
Where Do Saguaro Cactus Grow?
These cacti are native to and only grow in the Sonoran Desert. Saguaro are not found in the entire desert but only in areas that don’t freeze and at certain elevations. The freezing point is one of the most important considerations of where do Saguaro cactus grow. The cactus plants are found from sea level up to 4,000 feet. If they are growing above 4,000 feet, the plants survive only on south slopes where there are fewer freezes of shorter duration. Saguaro cactus plants are important parts of the desert ecology, both as habitat and as food.
Saguaro Cactus Care
It is not legal to procure a Saguaro cactus for home cultivation by digging it out of the desert. Beyond that, mature Saguaro cactus plants almost always die when transplanted. Saguaro cactus babies grow under the protection of nurse trees. The cactus will continue to grow and often its nurse tree will expire. It is thought the cactus may cause the nurse tree to die by competing for resources. The nurse trees provide Saguaro cactus babies with shelter from the harsh rays of the sun and dispersing moisture from evaporation. Saguaro cactus needs to grow in well-drained grit and receive low levels of water, with the soil drying out completely between irrigation. Annually fertilizing with cactus food in spring will help the plant complete its growth cycle. There are common cactus pests, such as scale and mealybugs, that will require manual or chemical controls.
Saguaro Cactus Blossoms
Saguaro cactus are slow to develop and may be 35 years of age or more before they produce the first flower. The flowers bloom in May until June and are a creamy white color and about 3 inches across. The Saguaro cactus blossoms only open at night and close in the day, which means they are pollinated by moths, bats and other nocturnal creatures.. The flowers are generally located at the end of the arms but may occasionally decorate the sides of the cactus.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月27日
Drought tolerant plants are important parts of the home landscape. Prickly pear plant is an excellent arid garden specimen that is appropriate for USDA plant hardiness zones 9 to 11. Growing prickly pear in colder climates can be done in containers where they are moved indoors when cold temperatures threaten. The question, “How to grow prickly pear?” is best answered with a little background on the plant.
Prickly Pear Plant Characteristics
Prickly pears are vigorously growing cactus with detachable spines which means they may not be suitable for every garden. The plants are perfect for the hot as a griddle areas of your garden. The plant is comprised of wide, flat, thick pads that are covered in spines and segmented stems. There are 181 species of prickly pear plant that range from low growing plants just over a foot high to 18 foot high giants.
Types of Prickly Pear
The wide range of cactus available for the home garden, provide a plant for every warm season situation. The diminutive Beavertail prickly pear (Opuntia basilaris) has bluish gray pads that are slightly triangular in shape and carried on a 20 inch tall frame that can spread 20 to 30 inches wide. The Indian fig prickly pear (Opuntia ficus-indica) is a monster of a cactus that grows in a treelike habit. It bears an edible fruit and large orange or yellow flowers. The types of prickly pear have numerous descriptive names, among them bunny ears (Opuntia microdasys) and cow’s tongue (Opuntia engelmannii).
Planting Prickly Pear
The first thing to remember when planting prickly pear is to wear thick gloves and full length sleeves. It will be helpful to have a second pair of hands to keep the cactus stable when lowering it into the hole. Plant the prickly pear at the same level it was growing in the nursery pot. Some exterior support may be necessary for larger specimens while it establishes. Planting prickly pear cactus requires careful handling to avoid damaging the plant and you.
How to Grow a Prickly Pear
Prickly pears are easy to grow. They need well-drained soil and can survive on rainwater after established. During rooting, the plant should be irrigated every two or three weeks. When you choose a cactus, consider the size it will eventually become and plant it away from pathways and areas where people will brush against it. Growing prickly pear successfully relies on a warm, dry climate. You can easily grow your own prickly pear. Propagation from pads is quick and quite simple. The pads are actually specialized flattened stems. Six month old pads are removed from the plant and set out in a dry area to form a callus on the cut end for several weeks. A half and half mix of soil and sand is good for planting prickly pear pads. The pad will form roots in a few months. During this time, it needs support and should not be watered. The pad can be watered after it will stand on its own.
Prickly Pear Plant Characteristics
Prickly pears are vigorously growing cactus with detachable spines which means they may not be suitable for every garden. The plants are perfect for the hot as a griddle areas of your garden. The plant is comprised of wide, flat, thick pads that are covered in spines and segmented stems. There are 181 species of prickly pear plant that range from low growing plants just over a foot high to 18 foot high giants.
Types of Prickly Pear
The wide range of cactus available for the home garden, provide a plant for every warm season situation. The diminutive Beavertail prickly pear (Opuntia basilaris) has bluish gray pads that are slightly triangular in shape and carried on a 20 inch tall frame that can spread 20 to 30 inches wide. The Indian fig prickly pear (Opuntia ficus-indica) is a monster of a cactus that grows in a treelike habit. It bears an edible fruit and large orange or yellow flowers. The types of prickly pear have numerous descriptive names, among them bunny ears (Opuntia microdasys) and cow’s tongue (Opuntia engelmannii).
Planting Prickly Pear
The first thing to remember when planting prickly pear is to wear thick gloves and full length sleeves. It will be helpful to have a second pair of hands to keep the cactus stable when lowering it into the hole. Plant the prickly pear at the same level it was growing in the nursery pot. Some exterior support may be necessary for larger specimens while it establishes. Planting prickly pear cactus requires careful handling to avoid damaging the plant and you.
How to Grow a Prickly Pear
Prickly pears are easy to grow. They need well-drained soil and can survive on rainwater after established. During rooting, the plant should be irrigated every two or three weeks. When you choose a cactus, consider the size it will eventually become and plant it away from pathways and areas where people will brush against it. Growing prickly pear successfully relies on a warm, dry climate. You can easily grow your own prickly pear. Propagation from pads is quick and quite simple. The pads are actually specialized flattened stems. Six month old pads are removed from the plant and set out in a dry area to form a callus on the cut end for several weeks. A half and half mix of soil and sand is good for planting prickly pear pads. The pad will form roots in a few months. During this time, it needs support and should not be watered. The pad can be watered after it will stand on its own.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月27日
Opuntia ficus-indica is more commonly known as a Barbary fig. This desert plant has been used for centuries as food, fending, and even dye. Growing Barbary fig plants, as long as you live in the right climate, is both rewarding and useful.
What is a Barbary Fig?
Barbary fig, a variety of prickly pear cactus, is thought to be native to Mexico where it has long been used for a variety of purposes. The fruits and pads can be eaten by humans and livestock, and the size, sprawling growth, and thorns make this cactus a good natural fence and barrier.
The insects that are used to make red dye feed on prickly pear, which has made it an economically useful plant. Today, the plant has spread far from Mexico. It is common in the southwest U.S. and is considered invasive in Africa. While Opuntia/Barbary fig info is practical for so many purposes, this plant is also great as simply an attractive addition to the garden. The plant grows green “pads,” which are covered in spines. At the tips of the pads, yellow to orange flowers bloom, followed by red fruits. The fruits are also known as tunas. Both these and the pads can be prepared and eaten.
How to Grow a Barbary Fig
As a cactus, this plant requires a desert climate to thrive: dry, hot conditions. It is hardy through zone 8, but is best in hotter regions. For the right location, Barbary fig care is easy. Give it a spot that gets full sun and little water. If you live in the desert, you can essentially put your cactus in a suitable area of the garden and leave it alone. It will grow and thrive. If you want to grow it indoors, it will do well in a container that is big enough. With the right sunny spot and dry soil, your Barbary fig may grow as tall as ten feet (3 meters), so give it plenty of space, or plan spacing accordingly if you want to use it as a fence.
What is a Barbary Fig?
Barbary fig, a variety of prickly pear cactus, is thought to be native to Mexico where it has long been used for a variety of purposes. The fruits and pads can be eaten by humans and livestock, and the size, sprawling growth, and thorns make this cactus a good natural fence and barrier.
The insects that are used to make red dye feed on prickly pear, which has made it an economically useful plant. Today, the plant has spread far from Mexico. It is common in the southwest U.S. and is considered invasive in Africa. While Opuntia/Barbary fig info is practical for so many purposes, this plant is also great as simply an attractive addition to the garden. The plant grows green “pads,” which are covered in spines. At the tips of the pads, yellow to orange flowers bloom, followed by red fruits. The fruits are also known as tunas. Both these and the pads can be prepared and eaten.
How to Grow a Barbary Fig
As a cactus, this plant requires a desert climate to thrive: dry, hot conditions. It is hardy through zone 8, but is best in hotter regions. For the right location, Barbary fig care is easy. Give it a spot that gets full sun and little water. If you live in the desert, you can essentially put your cactus in a suitable area of the garden and leave it alone. It will grow and thrive. If you want to grow it indoors, it will do well in a container that is big enough. With the right sunny spot and dry soil, your Barbary fig may grow as tall as ten feet (3 meters), so give it plenty of space, or plan spacing accordingly if you want to use it as a fence.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月27日
Elephants eat it, but you need not fear for your Portulacaria unless you have a pet pachyderm. The plant is a succulent with fleshy, glossy leaves that grows as a small bush. They are only hardy in USDA plant hardiness zones 10 and 11. Elephant bush houseplants (Portulacaria afra) thrive in bright light in a warm, draft free room. A few rules on how to care for elephant bush will help you grow a specimen of interest that may be a stand-alone plant or part of an intricate succulent garden.
Elephant Bush Succulents
Elephant bush plant may get 6- to 20-feet tall in habitat where it is a favorite food of elephants. In the home interior, it is much more likely to remain just a few feet tall. The bush has thick succulent brown stems with small tender green leaves that resemble a diminutive jade plant. The home interior is an excellent place to grow elephant bush houseplants. Portulacaria care requires warm temperatures and bright light. After a dormant period in winter, the bush produces small pink flowers grouped in clusters at the ends of the branches.
Growing Elephant Bush Houseplants
These succulents need well drained soil and an unglazed pot that will help excess moisture evaporate. The best mixture for this type of plant is cactus soil or potting soil cut by half with sand, vermiculite or pumice. Choose a location with indirect sunlight when growing elephant bush indoors. Overly bright sunlight can char the leaves and cause them to drop off. Ensure that the container you choose has wide drainage holes. Elephant bush succulents work well as part of a succulent display with plants that require similar care and situations.
How to Care for Elephant Bush
Portulacaria care is similar to other succulent plants. If planted outdoors in warm climates, dig in 3 inches of sand or gritty material to provide well drained soil. Watch for pests like whitefly, spider mites and mealybugs. The most common mistake made in succulent plants is watering. They are drought tolerant but do require watering from April to October. In winter the plants are dormant and you may suspend watering. Elephant bush succulents in the home interior should not have consistently wet feet. Make sure the pot drains well and don’t leave a saucer with water sitting under the container. Fertilize in late winter to early spring with an indoor plant fertilizer diluted by half.
Propagation of Elephant Bush Succulents
Like most succulents, elephant bush is easy to reproduce from cuttings. Take cuttings in spring or summer for best results. Let the cutting dry out and callous for a couple of days and then plant the cutting in damp gritty soil in a small pot. Place the cutting in a moderately lit area where temperatures are at least 65 F. (18 C.). Keep the soil lightly moist and in a few weeks the cutting will root and you will have a new elephant bush succulent to share with a friend or add to your collection.
Elephant Bush Succulents
Elephant bush plant may get 6- to 20-feet tall in habitat where it is a favorite food of elephants. In the home interior, it is much more likely to remain just a few feet tall. The bush has thick succulent brown stems with small tender green leaves that resemble a diminutive jade plant. The home interior is an excellent place to grow elephant bush houseplants. Portulacaria care requires warm temperatures and bright light. After a dormant period in winter, the bush produces small pink flowers grouped in clusters at the ends of the branches.
Growing Elephant Bush Houseplants
These succulents need well drained soil and an unglazed pot that will help excess moisture evaporate. The best mixture for this type of plant is cactus soil or potting soil cut by half with sand, vermiculite or pumice. Choose a location with indirect sunlight when growing elephant bush indoors. Overly bright sunlight can char the leaves and cause them to drop off. Ensure that the container you choose has wide drainage holes. Elephant bush succulents work well as part of a succulent display with plants that require similar care and situations.
How to Care for Elephant Bush
Portulacaria care is similar to other succulent plants. If planted outdoors in warm climates, dig in 3 inches of sand or gritty material to provide well drained soil. Watch for pests like whitefly, spider mites and mealybugs. The most common mistake made in succulent plants is watering. They are drought tolerant but do require watering from April to October. In winter the plants are dormant and you may suspend watering. Elephant bush succulents in the home interior should not have consistently wet feet. Make sure the pot drains well and don’t leave a saucer with water sitting under the container. Fertilize in late winter to early spring with an indoor plant fertilizer diluted by half.
Propagation of Elephant Bush Succulents
Like most succulents, elephant bush is easy to reproduce from cuttings. Take cuttings in spring or summer for best results. Let the cutting dry out and callous for a couple of days and then plant the cutting in damp gritty soil in a small pot. Place the cutting in a moderately lit area where temperatures are at least 65 F. (18 C.). Keep the soil lightly moist and in a few weeks the cutting will root and you will have a new elephant bush succulent to share with a friend or add to your collection.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月27日
Growing pincushion cactus is an easy gardening project for the novice gardener. The plants are drought tolerant and native to the arid upper Sonoran desert. They are small cacti that make excellent additions to succulent displays. Pincushion cactus plant is a perennial that is most often found in heavily grazed pastureland and woody scrub.
Pincushion Cactus Plant Varieties
Pincushion cactus is a member of a family called Mammillaria, which includes 250 species of cactus. Some of the species of pincushion have colorful names. The Giant Snake or Crawling Log cactus (Mammillaria matudae) produce long stems. Snowball cushion cactus (Mammillaria candida) is a ball-shaped plant with white felt or fuzz on the skin of the plant. Old Lady cactus (Mammillaria hahniana) is a solitary cactus with white fuzzy hair-like spines and purplish red flowers. There are also Powder puff (Mammillaria bocasa-na) and Rose (Mammillaria zeilmanniana) among many others. Cactus and succulent stores can provide you with more pincushion cactus information.
Pincushion Cactus Information
Pincushion cacti are small, squat plants that usually don’t grow more than 6 inches in height. They can be ball or barrel shaped, and are native to the warmer regions of the United States. The pincushion cactus plant is most commonly grown indoors but it can tolerate some chilling temperatures if grown outside. Pincushion cactus is so called because it is covered in white spines over the entire surface of the plant. It is a very prickly little specimen that is best handled with thick gloves.
Growing Pincushion Cactus
Pincushion cactus care is very simple and suitable for the beginning gardener. Cactus plants are used to dry conditions and limited fertility. The soil for a pincushion needs to be well drained and gritty. The soil needs to dry out between watering, which is best accomplished with a sandy topsoil. The cactus goes dormant in winter and needs no additional irrigation until spring. Potted plants do well in unglazed clay pots, which allow any extra moisture to evaporate. Temperatures should be between 50 and 75 F. (10-24 C.). Small gravel spread around the base of the plant out to the root zone will act as a mulch to deter stem rot. The cactus produces offsets when it is mature. These can be divided from the mother plant and potted in a sandy soil mixture. You can also start the plants from seed in spring. Plant seed in a flat filled with cactus mix. Surface sow and then sprinkle sand lightly over the top and moisten the soil evenly. Place the flat in a warm location of at least 70 F. (21 C.). Keep seeds wet when growing pincushion cactus. Seedlings are transplanted when they can easily be moved.
Flowering Pincushion Cactus
If optimum heat and watering conditions are met, the pincushion cactus may reward you with flowers in spring. Enhance the chance of blooming by holding off watering until several weeks into spring. You can also apply a cactus food in early spring to give the plant the nutrients it needs to produce blooms.
Pincushion Cactus Plant Varieties
Pincushion cactus is a member of a family called Mammillaria, which includes 250 species of cactus. Some of the species of pincushion have colorful names. The Giant Snake or Crawling Log cactus (Mammillaria matudae) produce long stems. Snowball cushion cactus (Mammillaria candida) is a ball-shaped plant with white felt or fuzz on the skin of the plant. Old Lady cactus (Mammillaria hahniana) is a solitary cactus with white fuzzy hair-like spines and purplish red flowers. There are also Powder puff (Mammillaria bocasa-na) and Rose (Mammillaria zeilmanniana) among many others. Cactus and succulent stores can provide you with more pincushion cactus information.
Pincushion Cactus Information
Pincushion cacti are small, squat plants that usually don’t grow more than 6 inches in height. They can be ball or barrel shaped, and are native to the warmer regions of the United States. The pincushion cactus plant is most commonly grown indoors but it can tolerate some chilling temperatures if grown outside. Pincushion cactus is so called because it is covered in white spines over the entire surface of the plant. It is a very prickly little specimen that is best handled with thick gloves.
Growing Pincushion Cactus
Pincushion cactus care is very simple and suitable for the beginning gardener. Cactus plants are used to dry conditions and limited fertility. The soil for a pincushion needs to be well drained and gritty. The soil needs to dry out between watering, which is best accomplished with a sandy topsoil. The cactus goes dormant in winter and needs no additional irrigation until spring. Potted plants do well in unglazed clay pots, which allow any extra moisture to evaporate. Temperatures should be between 50 and 75 F. (10-24 C.). Small gravel spread around the base of the plant out to the root zone will act as a mulch to deter stem rot. The cactus produces offsets when it is mature. These can be divided from the mother plant and potted in a sandy soil mixture. You can also start the plants from seed in spring. Plant seed in a flat filled with cactus mix. Surface sow and then sprinkle sand lightly over the top and moisten the soil evenly. Place the flat in a warm location of at least 70 F. (21 C.). Keep seeds wet when growing pincushion cactus. Seedlings are transplanted when they can easily be moved.
Flowering Pincushion Cactus
If optimum heat and watering conditions are met, the pincushion cactus may reward you with flowers in spring. Enhance the chance of blooming by holding off watering until several weeks into spring. You can also apply a cactus food in early spring to give the plant the nutrients it needs to produce blooms.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月27日
Native to the desert climates of the Arabian Peninsula and South Africa, pig’s ear succulent plant (Cotyledon orbiculata) is a hardy succulent with fleshy, oval, red-rimmed leaves that resemble a pig’s ear. Bell-shaped orange, yellow or red blooms grow atop tall, 24-inch stems in late summer or early autumn. Pig’s ear plant may reach heights of 4 feet at maturity. Keep reading for tips on growing pig’s ear plants and their subsequent care.
Growing Pig’s Ear Plants
Often known simply as a cotyledon pig’s ear plant, it is well suited for nearly any dry area of the garden, including rock gardens, succulent beds, hanging baskets or window boxes. Pig’s ear succulent plant is suitable for growing in USDA plant hardiness zones 9b through 12. If you live in a cool climate north of zone 9, cotyledon plant does just fine indoors. Cotyledon pig’s ear prefers a sunny location, but tolerates partial shade. Be sure the soil drains well and allow at least 24 inches around the plant, as succulents require excellent air circulation to prevent rot and other diseases.
Pig’s Ear Plant Care
Water pig’s ear succulent plant deeply when the soil is dry, then let the soil dry before watering again. In its natural environment, the plant needs very little water – only enough to survive. Too little water is preferable to too much. Pig’s ear requires very little fertilizer, and a light feeding in late spring is sufficient. Use a highly diluted, general-purpose fertilizer. Water well after feeding, as fertilizing dry soil can scorch the roots. To keep the plant healthy and support continued growth, remove blooms, along with the stalk, as soon as the flowers wilt. Pig’s ear plant care isn’t complicated, as the plant isn’t fussy. However, keep watch for snails and slugs, which are easy to spot by the chewed holes in the leaves and by the silvery, slimy trail they leave behind. Keep the area clean and free of debris. Apply slug bait or use snail traps, if necessary.
Growing Pig’s Ear Plants
Often known simply as a cotyledon pig’s ear plant, it is well suited for nearly any dry area of the garden, including rock gardens, succulent beds, hanging baskets or window boxes. Pig’s ear succulent plant is suitable for growing in USDA plant hardiness zones 9b through 12. If you live in a cool climate north of zone 9, cotyledon plant does just fine indoors. Cotyledon pig’s ear prefers a sunny location, but tolerates partial shade. Be sure the soil drains well and allow at least 24 inches around the plant, as succulents require excellent air circulation to prevent rot and other diseases.
Pig’s Ear Plant Care
Water pig’s ear succulent plant deeply when the soil is dry, then let the soil dry before watering again. In its natural environment, the plant needs very little water – only enough to survive. Too little water is preferable to too much. Pig’s ear requires very little fertilizer, and a light feeding in late spring is sufficient. Use a highly diluted, general-purpose fertilizer. Water well after feeding, as fertilizing dry soil can scorch the roots. To keep the plant healthy and support continued growth, remove blooms, along with the stalk, as soon as the flowers wilt. Pig’s ear plant care isn’t complicated, as the plant isn’t fussy. However, keep watch for snails and slugs, which are easy to spot by the chewed holes in the leaves and by the silvery, slimy trail they leave behind. Keep the area clean and free of debris. Apply slug bait or use snail traps, if necessary.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月27日
Peyote (Lophophora williamsii) is a spineless cactus with a rich history of ritual use in the First Nation culture. In the United States the plant is illegal to cultivate or eat unless you are a member of the Native American Church. The plant is considered poisonous by U.S. officials but First Nations people use it as a sacrament and pathway to religious and personal enlightenment. While growing peyote is not allowed unless you are a member of the NAC, it is a fascinating plant with attributes worth learning about. There are, however, peyote plant look-a-likes you can grow at home that will satisfy your urge to cultivate this cute little cactus without breaking the law.
What is the Peyote Cactus?
Peyote cactus is a small plant native to the Rio Grande Valley of Texas and northeastern Mexico. It has numerous psychoactive chemicals, chiefly mescaline, which is used in religious ceremonies to elevate awareness and cause a mental and physical high. Peyote cultivation is a time-consuming process, as the plant can take up to 13 years to mature. In any event, growing peyote is illegal unless you are a member of the church and have filed the proper paperwork. The bulk of the plant is underground where thick, wide roots form, looking much like parsnips or carrots. The upper part of the cactus grows about an inch out of the ground in a rounded habit with a diameter of less than 2 inches. It is greenish blue with 5 to 13 ribs and fuzzy hairs. Peyote plants often have tubercles, which give the ribs a spiral appearance. Occasionally, the plant will produce pink flowers which become club-shaped, edible pink berries. The plant is considered endangered due to over harvesting and land development. A similar looking cactus, Astrophytum asterias, or star cactus, is legal to grow, but it is also endangered. Star cactus has only 8 ribs and a fibrous root system. It is also called the sand dollar or sea urchin cactus. Star cactus requires similar care to that of peyote and other cacti.
Additional Peyote Plant Info
The part of peyote that is used for ritual is the small cushion-like upper part. The larger root is left in the ground to regenerate a new crown. The upper part is dried or used fresh and is called a peyote button. These are generally no larger than a quarter once dried and the dosage is 6 to 15 buttons. Older peyote plants produce offsets and develop into larger clumps of many plants. The cactus has 9 narcotic alkaloids of the isoquinoline series. The bulk of the effect is visual hallucinations, but auditory and olfactory alterations are also present. Church members use the buttons as a sacrament and in religious teaching sessions. Care of peyote cacti is similar to most cacti. Grow them in a half and half mix of coconut husk and pumice. Restrict water after seedlings establish and keep the plants in indirect sun where temperatures are between 70 and 90 degrees Fahrenheit (21 to 32 C.).
A few words on peyote cultivation
An interesting bit of peyote plant info is the form of documentation necessary to grow it. You must be in Arizona, New Mexico, Nevada, Oregon or Colorado. You must be a member of the NAC and at least 25% First Nations. You are required to write a Declaration of Religious Belief, get it notarized and file it with the county Recorder’s Office. You must post a copy of this document above the location where plants will be grown. Only the 5 states listed allow church members to grow the plant. It is illegal in all other states and is federally unlawful. In other words, it is not a good idea to try to grow it unless you are a documented member of the Native American Church. For the rest of us, the star cactus will provide similar visual appeal and growth habit, without the danger of jail time.
What is the Peyote Cactus?
Peyote cactus is a small plant native to the Rio Grande Valley of Texas and northeastern Mexico. It has numerous psychoactive chemicals, chiefly mescaline, which is used in religious ceremonies to elevate awareness and cause a mental and physical high. Peyote cultivation is a time-consuming process, as the plant can take up to 13 years to mature. In any event, growing peyote is illegal unless you are a member of the church and have filed the proper paperwork. The bulk of the plant is underground where thick, wide roots form, looking much like parsnips or carrots. The upper part of the cactus grows about an inch out of the ground in a rounded habit with a diameter of less than 2 inches. It is greenish blue with 5 to 13 ribs and fuzzy hairs. Peyote plants often have tubercles, which give the ribs a spiral appearance. Occasionally, the plant will produce pink flowers which become club-shaped, edible pink berries. The plant is considered endangered due to over harvesting and land development. A similar looking cactus, Astrophytum asterias, or star cactus, is legal to grow, but it is also endangered. Star cactus has only 8 ribs and a fibrous root system. It is also called the sand dollar or sea urchin cactus. Star cactus requires similar care to that of peyote and other cacti.
Additional Peyote Plant Info
The part of peyote that is used for ritual is the small cushion-like upper part. The larger root is left in the ground to regenerate a new crown. The upper part is dried or used fresh and is called a peyote button. These are generally no larger than a quarter once dried and the dosage is 6 to 15 buttons. Older peyote plants produce offsets and develop into larger clumps of many plants. The cactus has 9 narcotic alkaloids of the isoquinoline series. The bulk of the effect is visual hallucinations, but auditory and olfactory alterations are also present. Church members use the buttons as a sacrament and in religious teaching sessions. Care of peyote cacti is similar to most cacti. Grow them in a half and half mix of coconut husk and pumice. Restrict water after seedlings establish and keep the plants in indirect sun where temperatures are between 70 and 90 degrees Fahrenheit (21 to 32 C.).
A few words on peyote cultivation
An interesting bit of peyote plant info is the form of documentation necessary to grow it. You must be in Arizona, New Mexico, Nevada, Oregon or Colorado. You must be a member of the NAC and at least 25% First Nations. You are required to write a Declaration of Religious Belief, get it notarized and file it with the county Recorder’s Office. You must post a copy of this document above the location where plants will be grown. Only the 5 states listed allow church members to grow the plant. It is illegal in all other states and is federally unlawful. In other words, it is not a good idea to try to grow it unless you are a documented member of the Native American Church. For the rest of us, the star cactus will provide similar visual appeal and growth habit, without the danger of jail time.
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