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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月26日
Pickerel rush (Pontederia cordata) is a native North American plant with a wide zone range in USDA plant hardiness zones 3 to 10. The plant may become invasive due to a rhizomous rooting system, but it is an attractive plant that bears blue spiked flowers from early summer well into fall. Pickerel rush care is easy and the tenacious plant is an unusual addition to riparian zones and along home ponds. Few tips are necessary to learn how to grow pickerel rush, but this semi-aquatic plant is worth a try if you plant it in a submerged pot to prevent unwanted spreading.
About Pickerelweed Plants
Pickerelweed plants are rushes that are closely related to grasses. The plants are in the family Pontederia, named after an 18th century botany professor. These plants grow in clumps with thick to flat stems. The foliage is glossy and dark green with a heart-shaped leaf and grows 24 to 30 inches high. Stems on mature plants arch gracefully on water grown plants. The flower spires are a deep to soft blue and rise several inches above the body of the rush. Decorative and useful plants for around the home water feature should include pickerel rush for ponds because of its ease of care and hardiness. When the plant is partially submerged, the floating leaves provide important shade to prevent excess algae growth. They also form a network of foliage in which fish can hide.
How to Grow Pickerel Rush
You can share new starts of the plant with friends easily. Divide the rhizomes in late winter to early spring. Simply dig up the plant or remove it from its pot. Use a clean sharp soil knife or pruners to cut apart the roots, leaving each piece with several healthy leaves and thick rhizomes. Replant the new clumps and they will take off quickly, increasing your pickerel weed inventory. You can also save and dry the seeds from the plant to start inside in flats in late winter. Seeded plants can take several seasons to produce the bright flowers. Caring for pickerelweeds once the seeds have germinated just requires consistent moisture and bright sunlight. Plant outside in spring.
Pickerel Rush Care
Negligence is the word of the day in caring for pickerelweed plants. These unfussy little rushes can tolerate almost anything except full shade and drought. Pickerels should be kept in deep pots where the roots can remain moist. You can also submerge the entire pot and just let the broad leaves float out around the plant. Pickerel rush for ponds performs best when soils are heavy and rich. Loamy soils with moderate to slightly acidic pH create the best growing conditions for the plant. Pickerelweed plants that are grown in pots thrive in potting mix blended with a good quality topsoil and peat.
About Pickerelweed Plants
Pickerelweed plants are rushes that are closely related to grasses. The plants are in the family Pontederia, named after an 18th century botany professor. These plants grow in clumps with thick to flat stems. The foliage is glossy and dark green with a heart-shaped leaf and grows 24 to 30 inches high. Stems on mature plants arch gracefully on water grown plants. The flower spires are a deep to soft blue and rise several inches above the body of the rush. Decorative and useful plants for around the home water feature should include pickerel rush for ponds because of its ease of care and hardiness. When the plant is partially submerged, the floating leaves provide important shade to prevent excess algae growth. They also form a network of foliage in which fish can hide.
How to Grow Pickerel Rush
You can share new starts of the plant with friends easily. Divide the rhizomes in late winter to early spring. Simply dig up the plant or remove it from its pot. Use a clean sharp soil knife or pruners to cut apart the roots, leaving each piece with several healthy leaves and thick rhizomes. Replant the new clumps and they will take off quickly, increasing your pickerel weed inventory. You can also save and dry the seeds from the plant to start inside in flats in late winter. Seeded plants can take several seasons to produce the bright flowers. Caring for pickerelweeds once the seeds have germinated just requires consistent moisture and bright sunlight. Plant outside in spring.
Pickerel Rush Care
Negligence is the word of the day in caring for pickerelweed plants. These unfussy little rushes can tolerate almost anything except full shade and drought. Pickerels should be kept in deep pots where the roots can remain moist. You can also submerge the entire pot and just let the broad leaves float out around the plant. Pickerel rush for ponds performs best when soils are heavy and rich. Loamy soils with moderate to slightly acidic pH create the best growing conditions for the plant. Pickerelweed plants that are grown in pots thrive in potting mix blended with a good quality topsoil and peat.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月26日
Super plant or invasive weed? The mosquito fern plant has been called both. So what is a mosquito fern? The following will uncover some fascinating mosquito fern facts and leave you to be the judge.
What is a Mosquito Fern?
Native to California, the mosquito fern plant, Azolla filculoides or just Azolla, is named thus due to its habitat. While the plant starts off as small as ¼ inch, mosquito fern habitat is that of a matting, aquatic plant that can double its size in a couple of days! This thick-living carpet is named mosquito fern plant because it repels mosquito attempts to lay eggs in the water. The mosquitoes may not like mosquito ferns, but the waterfowl certainly do and, in fact, this plant is an important food source for them. This floating aquatic fern, like all ferns, propagates through spores. However, Azolla also multiplies by stem fragments, making it a prolific grower.
Mosquito Fern Facts
The plant is sometimes mistaken for duckweed, and like duckweed, mosquito fern plant is initially green. It soon turns to a reddish-brown hue as a result of excess nutrients or bright sunlight. A red or green carpet of mosquito fern is most often found in ponds or muddy banks, or in areas of standing water in streams. The plant has a symbiotic relationship with another organism called Anabeana azollae; this organism is a nitrogen-fixing cyanobactrium. The bacterium resides safely in the fern and supplies it with the excess nitrogen it produces. This relationship has long been utilized in China and other Asian countries as a “green manure” to fertilize rice paddies. This centuries old method has been known to increase production by as much as 158%! So far, I think you will agree that this is a “super plant.” However, for some people, there is a down side. Because mosquito plant breaks apart so easily and, thereby, reproduces rapidly, it may become a problem. When there is an excess of nutrients introduced into the pond or irrigation water, either due to runoff or erosion, mosquito plant will seemingly explode in size overnight, clogging screens and pumps. Additionally, it is said that cattle will not drink from ponds that are clogged with mosquito fern. Now this “super plant” is more an “invasive weed.”
If the mosquito fern plant is more of a thorn in your side than a boon, you can try dragging or raking the pond to rid it of the plant. Keep in mind that any broken stems will likely multiply into new plants and the problem will likely repeat itself. If you can figure out a way to mitigate the amount of runoff to lessen the nutrients entering the pond, you can slow down mosquito fern’s growth somewhat. Of last resort is spraying Azolla with an herbicide. This isn’t highly recommended, as it only affects a small portion of the mat of fern and the resulting rotting plant can affect water quality.
What is a Mosquito Fern?
Native to California, the mosquito fern plant, Azolla filculoides or just Azolla, is named thus due to its habitat. While the plant starts off as small as ¼ inch, mosquito fern habitat is that of a matting, aquatic plant that can double its size in a couple of days! This thick-living carpet is named mosquito fern plant because it repels mosquito attempts to lay eggs in the water. The mosquitoes may not like mosquito ferns, but the waterfowl certainly do and, in fact, this plant is an important food source for them. This floating aquatic fern, like all ferns, propagates through spores. However, Azolla also multiplies by stem fragments, making it a prolific grower.
Mosquito Fern Facts
The plant is sometimes mistaken for duckweed, and like duckweed, mosquito fern plant is initially green. It soon turns to a reddish-brown hue as a result of excess nutrients or bright sunlight. A red or green carpet of mosquito fern is most often found in ponds or muddy banks, or in areas of standing water in streams. The plant has a symbiotic relationship with another organism called Anabeana azollae; this organism is a nitrogen-fixing cyanobactrium. The bacterium resides safely in the fern and supplies it with the excess nitrogen it produces. This relationship has long been utilized in China and other Asian countries as a “green manure” to fertilize rice paddies. This centuries old method has been known to increase production by as much as 158%! So far, I think you will agree that this is a “super plant.” However, for some people, there is a down side. Because mosquito plant breaks apart so easily and, thereby, reproduces rapidly, it may become a problem. When there is an excess of nutrients introduced into the pond or irrigation water, either due to runoff or erosion, mosquito plant will seemingly explode in size overnight, clogging screens and pumps. Additionally, it is said that cattle will not drink from ponds that are clogged with mosquito fern. Now this “super plant” is more an “invasive weed.”
If the mosquito fern plant is more of a thorn in your side than a boon, you can try dragging or raking the pond to rid it of the plant. Keep in mind that any broken stems will likely multiply into new plants and the problem will likely repeat itself. If you can figure out a way to mitigate the amount of runoff to lessen the nutrients entering the pond, you can slow down mosquito fern’s growth somewhat. Of last resort is spraying Azolla with an herbicide. This isn’t highly recommended, as it only affects a small portion of the mat of fern and the resulting rotting plant can affect water quality.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月26日
If you’re in need of a good, easy-care plant that enjoys plenty of moisture, then growing lizard’s tail swamp lily may be just what you desire. Keep reading for lizard’s tail information and care.
Lizard’s Tail Information
Lizard’s tail plants (Saururus cernuus), also known as lizard’s tail swamp lilies and Saururus lizard’s tail, are perennial plants that can grow up to 4 feet tall. They have a hairy stem with very few, if any, branches. Leaves are large and heart-shaped.
Found in marshes, along the banks of ponds and streams, it is not uncommon to see some of the plant growing under water. This provides habitats for small aquatic invertebrates, which draw fish and other species. In addition, after the plant dies, it is decomposed by fungi and bacteria which provide food for aquatic invertebrates. This interesting plant produces white aromatic flowers on top of the hairy stems opposite the top leaf. The flower structure is a spike with lots of small white flowers that form an arch. The seeds form a structure that looks similar to a wrinkled lizard’s tail. This water-loving species has an orange aroma and spreads by rhizomes to form colonies.
Growing Lizard’s Tail Swamp Lily
If you have a boggy area in your yard, a small pond, or even a shallow pool of water, that receives part shade, a lizard’s tail plant may be a great option. It is an herbaceous perennial that grows best in USDA plant hardiness zones 4 through 11. Considered a good plant for beginner gardeners, Saururus lizard’s tail is not difficult to plant or care for.
Lizard’s Tail Care
This plant requires extremely little attention once planted. It spreads by rhizomes and can be divided by root propagation. No special care is needed to over winter this plant, and it is not susceptible to bugs or disease. As long as it receives plenty of water and partial sun, it will thrive.
Lizard’s Tail Information
Lizard’s tail plants (Saururus cernuus), also known as lizard’s tail swamp lilies and Saururus lizard’s tail, are perennial plants that can grow up to 4 feet tall. They have a hairy stem with very few, if any, branches. Leaves are large and heart-shaped.
Found in marshes, along the banks of ponds and streams, it is not uncommon to see some of the plant growing under water. This provides habitats for small aquatic invertebrates, which draw fish and other species. In addition, after the plant dies, it is decomposed by fungi and bacteria which provide food for aquatic invertebrates. This interesting plant produces white aromatic flowers on top of the hairy stems opposite the top leaf. The flower structure is a spike with lots of small white flowers that form an arch. The seeds form a structure that looks similar to a wrinkled lizard’s tail. This water-loving species has an orange aroma and spreads by rhizomes to form colonies.
Growing Lizard’s Tail Swamp Lily
If you have a boggy area in your yard, a small pond, or even a shallow pool of water, that receives part shade, a lizard’s tail plant may be a great option. It is an herbaceous perennial that grows best in USDA plant hardiness zones 4 through 11. Considered a good plant for beginner gardeners, Saururus lizard’s tail is not difficult to plant or care for.
Lizard’s Tail Care
This plant requires extremely little attention once planted. It spreads by rhizomes and can be divided by root propagation. No special care is needed to over winter this plant, and it is not susceptible to bugs or disease. As long as it receives plenty of water and partial sun, it will thrive.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月26日
Hydrilla is an invasive aquatic weed. It was introduced to the United States as an aquarium plant but escaped cultivation and is now a serious weed. Controlling hydrilla weeds is necessary to prevent diminishment of native flora. In most states, it is illegal to possess or transport the species. The plant grows rapidly, spreads easily and out competes native vegetation. It also fouls waterways with its thick tangled mats of stems. The plant is a federally listed noxious weed. Read on to learn more.
What is Hydrilla?
Hydrilla management is the responsibility of pond and lake denizens. What is hydrilla? The plant is often confused with our native Elodea, but it has one or more teeth on the underside of the midrib. This gives the plant a rough feel when you drag your hand down the length of the stem.
The plant is native to Africa, Australia and parts of Asia but has managed to take over many areas of our native flora here in the U.S. The plant is of greatest concern in the southern states but has managed to migrate in small populations to the western regions. It has also been discovered in some northern and Midwest regions. Identification is the first step to eradication. Hydrilla is a perennial plant with dense mats of stems that grow in water over 20 feet in depth. Stems are snaky and numerous, floating in a tangle on the surface of the water. Leaves are narrow with some serration, 1/8 to 3/8 inch long and have spines on the underside of the midrib.
This plant reproduces by seed which is carried on the water but also by fragmentation. Any tiny bit of the plant that is broken off has the capacity to become another plant. In areas with aquatic recreation, plants are consistently torn up to perpetuate the problem. One positive note of hydrilla plant information is its contribution as habitat for fish and animals. Initially, the plant has beneficial effects on fishing areas but, over time, the low oxygen levels in the mats do not support the growth of local animals.
How to Kill Hydrilla
Aquatic and wildlife managers have discovered how difficult hydrilla management can be. This is because of its ease of spread and reproduction. Controlling hydrilla weeds is an issue of concern in most of the United States and has become an economic problem in some regions. As early as the 1980s, $49 million was spent on hydrilla management. The numbers have since increased until infestations have become a budgetary burden in those localities with the highest populations of the plant. It is now known that cold tolerance is another aspect of hydrilla plant information, a detail that makes management even more challenging.
Methods of Controlling Hydrilla Weeds
Dredging and hand pulling or trawling are not effective strategies. This is because of the ease with which the plant establishes itself from small fragments. Stem fragments with only one node can form roots and shoots in just a couple of days. Physical control such as lowering water levels, adding aquatic dye or covering the surface of the water to reduce light have minimal effect. Drained ponds may respond to granular herbicides applied to the mud to eliminate tubers. Grass carp have been introduced in some areas and are efficient at eating and removing some of the plants.
Chemical control is the most effective but cannot be used where there is drinking water. Copper, when mixed with other herbicides, is a useful tool but care must be used around fish. Other chemicals include diquat, endothall, fluridone and dichlobenil. Each of these has extensive hazards and should be applied by a professional or by use of approved formulas recommended for aquatic management. Apply all cautions and respect the instructions regarding application methods and rates completely.
What is Hydrilla?
Hydrilla management is the responsibility of pond and lake denizens. What is hydrilla? The plant is often confused with our native Elodea, but it has one or more teeth on the underside of the midrib. This gives the plant a rough feel when you drag your hand down the length of the stem.
The plant is native to Africa, Australia and parts of Asia but has managed to take over many areas of our native flora here in the U.S. The plant is of greatest concern in the southern states but has managed to migrate in small populations to the western regions. It has also been discovered in some northern and Midwest regions. Identification is the first step to eradication. Hydrilla is a perennial plant with dense mats of stems that grow in water over 20 feet in depth. Stems are snaky and numerous, floating in a tangle on the surface of the water. Leaves are narrow with some serration, 1/8 to 3/8 inch long and have spines on the underside of the midrib.
This plant reproduces by seed which is carried on the water but also by fragmentation. Any tiny bit of the plant that is broken off has the capacity to become another plant. In areas with aquatic recreation, plants are consistently torn up to perpetuate the problem. One positive note of hydrilla plant information is its contribution as habitat for fish and animals. Initially, the plant has beneficial effects on fishing areas but, over time, the low oxygen levels in the mats do not support the growth of local animals.
How to Kill Hydrilla
Aquatic and wildlife managers have discovered how difficult hydrilla management can be. This is because of its ease of spread and reproduction. Controlling hydrilla weeds is an issue of concern in most of the United States and has become an economic problem in some regions. As early as the 1980s, $49 million was spent on hydrilla management. The numbers have since increased until infestations have become a budgetary burden in those localities with the highest populations of the plant. It is now known that cold tolerance is another aspect of hydrilla plant information, a detail that makes management even more challenging.
Methods of Controlling Hydrilla Weeds
Dredging and hand pulling or trawling are not effective strategies. This is because of the ease with which the plant establishes itself from small fragments. Stem fragments with only one node can form roots and shoots in just a couple of days. Physical control such as lowering water levels, adding aquatic dye or covering the surface of the water to reduce light have minimal effect. Drained ponds may respond to granular herbicides applied to the mud to eliminate tubers. Grass carp have been introduced in some areas and are efficient at eating and removing some of the plants.
Chemical control is the most effective but cannot be used where there is drinking water. Copper, when mixed with other herbicides, is a useful tool but care must be used around fish. Other chemicals include diquat, endothall, fluridone and dichlobenil. Each of these has extensive hazards and should be applied by a professional or by use of approved formulas recommended for aquatic management. Apply all cautions and respect the instructions regarding application methods and rates completely.
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0
文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月26日
Have you ever looked at a stand of cattails and wondered is the cattail plant edible? Using edible parts of a cattail in the kitchen is nothing new, except maybe the kitchen part. Native Americans routinely harvested the cattail plant for use as tinder, diaper material, and, yes, food. Cattail starch has even been found on Paleolithic grinding stones dating back tens of thousands of years. So what parts of cattail are edible and how do you use cattails in the kitchen?
What Parts of Cattail are Edible?
Cattails are incredibly unique looking plants and, in fact, are actually grasses. There are dozens of species found growing in the Northern Hemisphere and Australia with the largest and most common being Typha latifolia. They can be found in some marshy areas in such proliferation it’s no wonder that ancient man discovered that the cattail plant is edible.
Many parts of these tall, reedy plants can be ingested. Each cattail has both male and female flowers on the same stalk. The male flower is at the top and the female is below. Once the male has released all of its pollen, it dries up and drops to the ground, leaving the female flower atop the stalk. The female flower looks much like a fuzzy hotdog on a stick and is commonly seen in dried flower arrangements, but that isn’t all it’s useful for.
Before the male pollinates the female in the spring, the pollen can be collected and used in combination with traditional flower to make pancakes or muffins. The cattail pollen is a great source of protein. The female flower is green prior to pollination and at this juncture can be harvested, cooked and eaten with butter, sort of a marsh corn on the cob. The green flowers can also be used in soups or frittatas or even made into cattail flower refrigerator pickles.
Additional Edible Parts of Cattail Plants
Young cattail shoots and roots are also edible parts of cattail plants. The young shoots are found once the outer leaves are stripped and can then be used stir fried or sautéed. They are referred to as Cossack asparagus, although the tender, white shoots taste more like cucumbers. The tough, fibrous roots can also be harvested. They are then dried and ground into flour or boiled down with water to separate the starch. The starch is then used much like corn starch to thicken gravies and sauces. Care should be taken when using the edible root parts of a cattail, however. They act as a filtration system for the plant and if in polluted water, will absorb those pollutants which could then be passed along to you as you ingest them.
All in all, cattails may be the perfect survival food. They are also easy to harvest and a supply can be laid aside for later use as well as for medicinal purposes, clothing and shelter – altogether a truly remarkable plant.
What Parts of Cattail are Edible?
Cattails are incredibly unique looking plants and, in fact, are actually grasses. There are dozens of species found growing in the Northern Hemisphere and Australia with the largest and most common being Typha latifolia. They can be found in some marshy areas in such proliferation it’s no wonder that ancient man discovered that the cattail plant is edible.
Many parts of these tall, reedy plants can be ingested. Each cattail has both male and female flowers on the same stalk. The male flower is at the top and the female is below. Once the male has released all of its pollen, it dries up and drops to the ground, leaving the female flower atop the stalk. The female flower looks much like a fuzzy hotdog on a stick and is commonly seen in dried flower arrangements, but that isn’t all it’s useful for.
Before the male pollinates the female in the spring, the pollen can be collected and used in combination with traditional flower to make pancakes or muffins. The cattail pollen is a great source of protein. The female flower is green prior to pollination and at this juncture can be harvested, cooked and eaten with butter, sort of a marsh corn on the cob. The green flowers can also be used in soups or frittatas or even made into cattail flower refrigerator pickles.
Additional Edible Parts of Cattail Plants
Young cattail shoots and roots are also edible parts of cattail plants. The young shoots are found once the outer leaves are stripped and can then be used stir fried or sautéed. They are referred to as Cossack asparagus, although the tender, white shoots taste more like cucumbers. The tough, fibrous roots can also be harvested. They are then dried and ground into flour or boiled down with water to separate the starch. The starch is then used much like corn starch to thicken gravies and sauces. Care should be taken when using the edible root parts of a cattail, however. They act as a filtration system for the plant and if in polluted water, will absorb those pollutants which could then be passed along to you as you ingest them.
All in all, cattails may be the perfect survival food. They are also easy to harvest and a supply can be laid aside for later use as well as for medicinal purposes, clothing and shelter – altogether a truly remarkable plant.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月26日
If you plant an herb garden, by all means use it! Herbs are meant to be cut; otherwise, they get gangly or woody. Parsley is no exception and if you don’t prune it, you end up with leggy parsley plants. So what can you do about overgrown or leggy parsley plants?
Droopy, Leggy, Overgrown Parsley
If you have a drooping parsley plant or parsley plants falling over every which way, it may be too late, especially if the plant has blossomed and gone to seed. Don’t despair. Parsley grows rapidly from seed or you can get some inexpensive starts from the local nursery. Moving forward, however, you will want to learn how to trim parsley (and use it!) to avoid drooping and falling over parsley plants.
Of course, if your parsley plant is droopy, you might just need to give it some water. If it doesn’t appear to be leggy and the temps have been high, some extra irrigation just might remedy the situation. If you ascertain that the parsley plant is droopy due to extreme temps and dry soil, trim the plant back and water it generously. Trimming parsley increases the yield of the plant. If it is not occasionally thinned, it loses vigor. Cutting it back will also prevent it from taking over and choking out other plants or herbs. Also, parsley flowers should be routinely cut back or pinched. If allowed to go to seed, you’ll have more parsley than you know what to do with. When you remove the blossoms, the energy the plant was using towards seed production is redirected towards foliage production, which makes the plant grow more vigorously. Pruning also helps prevent some diseases, such as powdery mildew, by opening up the plant and increasing air flow.
How to Trim Parsley
If the parsley has any flowers, pinch them back (deadhead) or remove them with scissors. First, check and see of your parsley plants have grown any blooms. If these blooms have begun to fade, it’s important that you deadhead them. To deadhead means to remove the dying flowers before they form seeds. You may have also heard of this process described as pinching back the flowers. By “deadheading” or “pinching back” the dying flower blooms, you prevent the plant from over seeding all over your herb garden. This will keep your parsley vigorous and assist in preventing the plant from taking over. Take a sharp pair of scissors and cut off the flower stalk at the root. Next, remove any yellowed, spotted or shriveled leaves as well as those that are munched on by insects. Then give the parsley a 1/3 inch trim. Cut or pinch off 1/3 inch off the tops of the plant which will control the growth of the parsley. You can do this any time the parsley is getting too large.
Harvesting for use in cooking can take place any time after the leaves have become well formed. Cut the outer leaves and stems down to the ground, leaving the inner stems to grow. Don’t be afraid to cut too much. Your parsley will love it. Once you have pruned the parsley, mulch around the plants with mature compost to aid in water retention. Remember that parsley is a biennial herb. This means that it grows for only two years. At the end of the two years, parsley bolts, or sends up a bunch of flower stalks, goes to seed, and dies. In fact, many people treat parsley as an annual and discard and replant each year.
Droopy, Leggy, Overgrown Parsley
If you have a drooping parsley plant or parsley plants falling over every which way, it may be too late, especially if the plant has blossomed and gone to seed. Don’t despair. Parsley grows rapidly from seed or you can get some inexpensive starts from the local nursery. Moving forward, however, you will want to learn how to trim parsley (and use it!) to avoid drooping and falling over parsley plants.
Of course, if your parsley plant is droopy, you might just need to give it some water. If it doesn’t appear to be leggy and the temps have been high, some extra irrigation just might remedy the situation. If you ascertain that the parsley plant is droopy due to extreme temps and dry soil, trim the plant back and water it generously. Trimming parsley increases the yield of the plant. If it is not occasionally thinned, it loses vigor. Cutting it back will also prevent it from taking over and choking out other plants or herbs. Also, parsley flowers should be routinely cut back or pinched. If allowed to go to seed, you’ll have more parsley than you know what to do with. When you remove the blossoms, the energy the plant was using towards seed production is redirected towards foliage production, which makes the plant grow more vigorously. Pruning also helps prevent some diseases, such as powdery mildew, by opening up the plant and increasing air flow.
How to Trim Parsley
If the parsley has any flowers, pinch them back (deadhead) or remove them with scissors. First, check and see of your parsley plants have grown any blooms. If these blooms have begun to fade, it’s important that you deadhead them. To deadhead means to remove the dying flowers before they form seeds. You may have also heard of this process described as pinching back the flowers. By “deadheading” or “pinching back” the dying flower blooms, you prevent the plant from over seeding all over your herb garden. This will keep your parsley vigorous and assist in preventing the plant from taking over. Take a sharp pair of scissors and cut off the flower stalk at the root. Next, remove any yellowed, spotted or shriveled leaves as well as those that are munched on by insects. Then give the parsley a 1/3 inch trim. Cut or pinch off 1/3 inch off the tops of the plant which will control the growth of the parsley. You can do this any time the parsley is getting too large.
Harvesting for use in cooking can take place any time after the leaves have become well formed. Cut the outer leaves and stems down to the ground, leaving the inner stems to grow. Don’t be afraid to cut too much. Your parsley will love it. Once you have pruned the parsley, mulch around the plants with mature compost to aid in water retention. Remember that parsley is a biennial herb. This means that it grows for only two years. At the end of the two years, parsley bolts, or sends up a bunch of flower stalks, goes to seed, and dies. In fact, many people treat parsley as an annual and discard and replant each year.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月26日
Parsley is a staple of the cottage garden with numerous herbal and culinary uses. It is easy to grow and there are several varieties from which to choose. Parsley plant problems are rare but a few insects and fungal diseases can become troublesome. Most disease pathogens affect the foliage but a few diseases of parsley can attack the crown and roots and cause the plant to die. Preventing parsley plant diseases begins with good site control and cultivation.
Problems with Parsley Plants
There are very few cuisines that don’t taste and look better with a bit of fresh parsley, but this old-fashioned herb is more than a garnish on your breakfast plate. It has a history of use as wreaths and garland, medication and flavoring.
Growing parsley is simple once you get over the slow germination hurdle and it is easy to harvest in a progressive manner, so a fresh supply is always available. Parsley plant problems are usually pest related, but occasionally, a plant will become afflicted with a disease. Some of the more common symptoms are listed here as well as a guide to treatment for the various diseases of parsley. The tasty herb is a favorite of insects, rabbits and grazing wild animals. If you can keep your parsley from succumbing to these munchers, you still have some other obstacles with which to contend. Aster yellows, for instance, is a disease of parsley that is transmitted from leafhoppers.
Parsley is a member of the same family as carrots and celery and is prey to similar diseases. The most common issue is fungal disease. These come in many forms and generally afflict plants in moist regions or when unseasonably wet, warm weather is present. Soil borne pathogens transmit to the plants from the roots or by splattering onto the leaves. Overhead watering and improper circulation cement the formation of fungal spores and their transport. Cultural care is essential to preventing these forms of parsley plant diseases. Crown/root rot – Crown and root rot are associated with soggy soil. The perpetrators are both a fungi and bacteria found in soil that burst into action when the ground is moist. Leaves turn yellow and brown followed by stems and the entire plant discoloring and dying. Roots will blacken and decay and new shoots will not form. Leaf Spot – Another of the common problems with parsley plants is leaf spot, caused by the Septoria fungus. Yellow spots show up on the foliage and darken to brown with a golden halo. Leaves wilt and occasionally fall off. The entire plant is weakened by the disease. The fungus is seed borne or splashed onto plants. This is considered the most important of the parsley plant diseases and has caused entire crops to fail. Blight – Blight is caused by the fungus Botrytis and is also called gray mold. The disease starts out with brown to black spots on the leaves. White-gray fungal growth is sported on all leaf surfaces over time. Leaves fail to thrive and die.
Treating Parsley Diseases
There are a few varieties of parsley that are resistant to the most common diseases, among them ‘Paramount.’ If seed is not available from one of the resistant varieties, cultural control is often effective at combating these diseases. Use a drip line to water plants and irrigate in the morning so there is plenty of time for the parsley to dry. Practice crop rotation to prevent soil borne pathogens from infesting successive crops. Thin the herbs to encourage circulation and plant parsley in a sunny location. Air and sunlight are crucial to treating parsley diseases. Some fungal diseases will respond to sulfur fungicide applied at the first sign of infection. If plants are already heavily infested and failing, pull them up and discard them and start anew.
Problems with Parsley Plants
There are very few cuisines that don’t taste and look better with a bit of fresh parsley, but this old-fashioned herb is more than a garnish on your breakfast plate. It has a history of use as wreaths and garland, medication and flavoring.
Growing parsley is simple once you get over the slow germination hurdle and it is easy to harvest in a progressive manner, so a fresh supply is always available. Parsley plant problems are usually pest related, but occasionally, a plant will become afflicted with a disease. Some of the more common symptoms are listed here as well as a guide to treatment for the various diseases of parsley. The tasty herb is a favorite of insects, rabbits and grazing wild animals. If you can keep your parsley from succumbing to these munchers, you still have some other obstacles with which to contend. Aster yellows, for instance, is a disease of parsley that is transmitted from leafhoppers.
Parsley is a member of the same family as carrots and celery and is prey to similar diseases. The most common issue is fungal disease. These come in many forms and generally afflict plants in moist regions or when unseasonably wet, warm weather is present. Soil borne pathogens transmit to the plants from the roots or by splattering onto the leaves. Overhead watering and improper circulation cement the formation of fungal spores and their transport. Cultural care is essential to preventing these forms of parsley plant diseases. Crown/root rot – Crown and root rot are associated with soggy soil. The perpetrators are both a fungi and bacteria found in soil that burst into action when the ground is moist. Leaves turn yellow and brown followed by stems and the entire plant discoloring and dying. Roots will blacken and decay and new shoots will not form. Leaf Spot – Another of the common problems with parsley plants is leaf spot, caused by the Septoria fungus. Yellow spots show up on the foliage and darken to brown with a golden halo. Leaves wilt and occasionally fall off. The entire plant is weakened by the disease. The fungus is seed borne or splashed onto plants. This is considered the most important of the parsley plant diseases and has caused entire crops to fail. Blight – Blight is caused by the fungus Botrytis and is also called gray mold. The disease starts out with brown to black spots on the leaves. White-gray fungal growth is sported on all leaf surfaces over time. Leaves fail to thrive and die.
Treating Parsley Diseases
There are a few varieties of parsley that are resistant to the most common diseases, among them ‘Paramount.’ If seed is not available from one of the resistant varieties, cultural control is often effective at combating these diseases. Use a drip line to water plants and irrigate in the morning so there is plenty of time for the parsley to dry. Practice crop rotation to prevent soil borne pathogens from infesting successive crops. Thin the herbs to encourage circulation and plant parsley in a sunny location. Air and sunlight are crucial to treating parsley diseases. Some fungal diseases will respond to sulfur fungicide applied at the first sign of infection. If plants are already heavily infested and failing, pull them up and discard them and start anew.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月26日
It’s inevitable, but there are a few things that can delay it. What am I talking about? Bolting parsley plants. Basically that means that rather suddenly your parsley has flowered and then the parsley plant has gone to seed. Read on to find out what to do when your parsley bolts?
What to Do When Parsley Bolts
By the time the parsley plant has gone to seed or bolted, it’s too late. The best idea is to learn how to keep parsley from bolting in the first place, or at least how to slow down the inevitable process. If your parsley plant is bolting, it will likely have not much left in it. Probably the best idea is to pull it up and replant.
How to Keep Parsley from Bolting
Bolting usually occurs when the weather goes into overdrive and rapidly heats up. The plant does the same, flowering rapidly and setting seeds. At this juncture, the plant also stops producing leaves. Before you get to that point of no return, what can be done to prevent parsley plant bolting? The following tips may help keep parsley from bolting: First of all, keep or move parsley to a cooler or lightly shaded area, especially if temperatures soar. Plant your parsley earlier in the spring to extend to allow the herb to utilize the cool growing season. No matter what, the plant will likely bolt as temps heat up, but you will have more time to harvest. On the subject of harvest, as with all herbs, the more leaves you harvest, the more energy the plant focuses on regrowing foliage and not flowers. Don’t get too scissor happy though. Only take one-quarter to one-third of a stem at any one time. Again, this will work for a while, but the plant will eventually bolt. If the plant does begin to flower, nip them in the bud, literally. Pinch the flowers off ASAP.
Lastly, to thwart bolting parsley plants, stagger plantings of parsley. Start the seeds indoors and then gradually introduce the seedlings to the outdoors. Begin by placing them outside just in the morning for a week and then gradually increase their time outside. If you live in a scorching hot region, be sure to do this in an area with dappled shade or place the seedlings under or behind a larger plant that will shade them somewhat. You can also try growing parsley indoors on the windowsill or the like. The temperature indoors is often more comfortable for us as well as the parsley.
What to Do When Parsley Bolts
By the time the parsley plant has gone to seed or bolted, it’s too late. The best idea is to learn how to keep parsley from bolting in the first place, or at least how to slow down the inevitable process. If your parsley plant is bolting, it will likely have not much left in it. Probably the best idea is to pull it up and replant.
How to Keep Parsley from Bolting
Bolting usually occurs when the weather goes into overdrive and rapidly heats up. The plant does the same, flowering rapidly and setting seeds. At this juncture, the plant also stops producing leaves. Before you get to that point of no return, what can be done to prevent parsley plant bolting? The following tips may help keep parsley from bolting: First of all, keep or move parsley to a cooler or lightly shaded area, especially if temperatures soar. Plant your parsley earlier in the spring to extend to allow the herb to utilize the cool growing season. No matter what, the plant will likely bolt as temps heat up, but you will have more time to harvest. On the subject of harvest, as with all herbs, the more leaves you harvest, the more energy the plant focuses on regrowing foliage and not flowers. Don’t get too scissor happy though. Only take one-quarter to one-third of a stem at any one time. Again, this will work for a while, but the plant will eventually bolt. If the plant does begin to flower, nip them in the bud, literally. Pinch the flowers off ASAP.
Lastly, to thwart bolting parsley plants, stagger plantings of parsley. Start the seeds indoors and then gradually introduce the seedlings to the outdoors. Begin by placing them outside just in the morning for a week and then gradually increase their time outside. If you live in a scorching hot region, be sure to do this in an area with dappled shade or place the seedlings under or behind a larger plant that will shade them somewhat. You can also try growing parsley indoors on the windowsill or the like. The temperature indoors is often more comfortable for us as well as the parsley.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月26日
Parsley root (Petroselinum crispum), also known as Dutch parsley, Hamburg parsley and rooted parsley, shouldn’t be confused with the related leaf parsley. If you plant curly or Italian flat leaf parsley expecting a big edible root, you will be disappointed. If you plant parsley root, however, you’ll get a big parsnip-like root, as well as greens, that can be harvested and regrown throughout the summer. Keep reading to learn more about how to grow parsley root.
What is Parsley Root?
Though its root sets it apart, parsley root is indeed a variety of parsley. Parsley is a member of the carrot family, which goes a long way to explain its appearance. Although its root could be mistaken for a parsnip or a white carrot, its flavor is most similar to celery. Its texture is dry like a parsnip, however, and it can be cooked like one. The leaves are broader and tougher than those of herb parsley varieties, and their flavor is stronger and a bit more bitter. They’re great for garnish, or as an herb when you want a bold taste.
How to Grow Parsley Root
Parsley root plants can be grown from seed. The roots need a long growing season to develop, so start them indoors 5-6 weeks before the last frost date if you live in an area with hard winters. Germination can take as long as 3 weeks, so soak the seeds for 12 hours in warm water first to help it along. When your parsley root plants are 3 inches (7.5 cm) tall, harden them off outdoors, then transplant them when all risk of frost has passed. In hot areas without frost, plant your parsley root plants during the cool season in autumn, winter, or early spring.
Growing parsley root plants like rich loamy soil and frequent watering. They can also be grown in containers provided they are deep enough to accommodate the long roots. Parsley root harvesting happens in phases. If you’re after the leaves, cut the outer stalks off at ground level to encourage new growth. Always leave the inner stalks in place. At the end of the growing season, dig up the entire plant and separate the stalks from the root. Store the root in damp sand or peat and freeze or dry the leaves.
What is Parsley Root?
Though its root sets it apart, parsley root is indeed a variety of parsley. Parsley is a member of the carrot family, which goes a long way to explain its appearance. Although its root could be mistaken for a parsnip or a white carrot, its flavor is most similar to celery. Its texture is dry like a parsnip, however, and it can be cooked like one. The leaves are broader and tougher than those of herb parsley varieties, and their flavor is stronger and a bit more bitter. They’re great for garnish, or as an herb when you want a bold taste.
How to Grow Parsley Root
Parsley root plants can be grown from seed. The roots need a long growing season to develop, so start them indoors 5-6 weeks before the last frost date if you live in an area with hard winters. Germination can take as long as 3 weeks, so soak the seeds for 12 hours in warm water first to help it along. When your parsley root plants are 3 inches (7.5 cm) tall, harden them off outdoors, then transplant them when all risk of frost has passed. In hot areas without frost, plant your parsley root plants during the cool season in autumn, winter, or early spring.
Growing parsley root plants like rich loamy soil and frequent watering. They can also be grown in containers provided they are deep enough to accommodate the long roots. Parsley root harvesting happens in phases. If you’re after the leaves, cut the outer stalks off at ground level to encourage new growth. Always leave the inner stalks in place. At the end of the growing season, dig up the entire plant and separate the stalks from the root. Store the root in damp sand or peat and freeze or dry the leaves.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月26日
Many of us cultivate herbs for use in cooking or for medicinal use. We normally plant the usual standbys parsley, sage, rosemary, mint, thyme, etc. If you’re finding your herbs a bit ho-hum, you should try introducing some Japanese Mitsuba parsley into the garden. What is Japanese parsley and what other interesting Mitsuba plant info can we unearth?
What is Japanese Parsley?
Japanese Mitsuba parsley (Cryptotaenia japonica) is a member of the Apiaceae family, which includes carrots. Although it is technically a biennial/annual herb, Japanese parsley use is more commonly cultivated as a vegetable in Japan. Mitsuba may also be found under the names Purple-Leaved Japanese Wild Parsley, Mitsuba, and Purple-Leaved Japanese Honewort. Plants are low growing, about 18-24 inches tall by 8 inches across with heart-shaped, lightly ruffled leaves borne off of purple/bronze stems. The plant flowers light pink in mid-summer.
Japanese Parsley Uses
Mitsuba is native to eastern Asia. It can be used in shade gardens where its foliage contrasts nicely with other shade lovers such as:
Hostas
Ferns
Solomon’s seal
Columbine
Lungwort
In Asian cuisine, Japanese parsley is used as a seasoning, a potency tonic and the leaves and root are cooked as a vegetable while sprouts are eaten in salads. All parts of the plant are edible from roots to seed; however, some people report toxic effects (dermatitis) from repeated contact and toxicity from eating large quantities of the plant. The flavor is said to be akin to celery combined with parsley, sorrel and coriander. Yum!
Additional Mitsuba Plant Info
The lovely trefoil leaves are sometimes used in Japanese flower arranging (Ikebana). The stems are tied into a knot to decorate traditional Japanese dishes designed to bring good luck to the happy couple. This is a moderately growing plant which prefers moist conditions in shaded areas. It is not winter hardy and will die back, but have no fear, Mitsuba readily self-seeds and another crop will undoubtedly be peeking up from the soil in the spring. Some folks report that Japanese parsley can be invasive. If you want to have more control of where it will spring up, be sure to cut back the blossoms before they go to seed.
Growing Japanese Parsley
Japanese parsley can be grown in USDA zones 4-7 in, as mentioned, a moist, shady area – ideally under trees. Unlike other herbs, Mitsuba wants to stay damp but, like other herbs, doesn’t want “wet feet,” so there is a fine line here. Be sure to plant Japanese parsley in an area with good drainage. When growing Japanese parsley, sow seeds in April indoors, or wait until temps have warmed outside and direct sow. Germination is fairly rapid. When the seedlings are small, they must be protected from slugs and snails, who apparently adore the flavor as well. Other than these guys, Mitsuba has no significant pests or problems. Harvest Japanese parsley a few leaves at a time in bunches just as you would any other herb. Use fresh or add to cooked dishes at the last minute. Overcooking Mitsuba will destroy its wonderful aroma and flavor.
What is Japanese Parsley?
Japanese Mitsuba parsley (Cryptotaenia japonica) is a member of the Apiaceae family, which includes carrots. Although it is technically a biennial/annual herb, Japanese parsley use is more commonly cultivated as a vegetable in Japan. Mitsuba may also be found under the names Purple-Leaved Japanese Wild Parsley, Mitsuba, and Purple-Leaved Japanese Honewort. Plants are low growing, about 18-24 inches tall by 8 inches across with heart-shaped, lightly ruffled leaves borne off of purple/bronze stems. The plant flowers light pink in mid-summer.
Japanese Parsley Uses
Mitsuba is native to eastern Asia. It can be used in shade gardens where its foliage contrasts nicely with other shade lovers such as:
Hostas
Ferns
Solomon’s seal
Columbine
Lungwort
In Asian cuisine, Japanese parsley is used as a seasoning, a potency tonic and the leaves and root are cooked as a vegetable while sprouts are eaten in salads. All parts of the plant are edible from roots to seed; however, some people report toxic effects (dermatitis) from repeated contact and toxicity from eating large quantities of the plant. The flavor is said to be akin to celery combined with parsley, sorrel and coriander. Yum!
Additional Mitsuba Plant Info
The lovely trefoil leaves are sometimes used in Japanese flower arranging (Ikebana). The stems are tied into a knot to decorate traditional Japanese dishes designed to bring good luck to the happy couple. This is a moderately growing plant which prefers moist conditions in shaded areas. It is not winter hardy and will die back, but have no fear, Mitsuba readily self-seeds and another crop will undoubtedly be peeking up from the soil in the spring. Some folks report that Japanese parsley can be invasive. If you want to have more control of where it will spring up, be sure to cut back the blossoms before they go to seed.
Growing Japanese Parsley
Japanese parsley can be grown in USDA zones 4-7 in, as mentioned, a moist, shady area – ideally under trees. Unlike other herbs, Mitsuba wants to stay damp but, like other herbs, doesn’t want “wet feet,” so there is a fine line here. Be sure to plant Japanese parsley in an area with good drainage. When growing Japanese parsley, sow seeds in April indoors, or wait until temps have warmed outside and direct sow. Germination is fairly rapid. When the seedlings are small, they must be protected from slugs and snails, who apparently adore the flavor as well. Other than these guys, Mitsuba has no significant pests or problems. Harvest Japanese parsley a few leaves at a time in bunches just as you would any other herb. Use fresh or add to cooked dishes at the last minute. Overcooking Mitsuba will destroy its wonderful aroma and flavor.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月26日
Parsley (Petroselinum crispum) is a hardy herb grown for its flavor, which is added to many dishes, as well as its use as a decorative garnish. Growing parsley also makes an attractive edging plant. Its curly, fern-like foliage is high in vitamins and the plant is rarely affected by disease, though pests such as aphids, can occasionally present a problem. Parsley is considered a biennial but is treated as an annual in cold climates. This herb can be grown in containers or out in the garden and is generally established through seeds. Read on to learn more about how to grow parsley.
When to Plant Parsley Seeds
Parsley seeds can be started indoors or out. While they can be sown directly in the garden as soon as the soil is manageable in spring, the best time when to plant parsley seeds is to sow them indoors about six weeks beforehand. This is typically due to its slow germination rate, which can take up to three weeks or more. As parsley seeds are quite small, there’s no need for covering them with soil. When planting parsley, simply sprinkle seeds on top of the soil and mist well with water. Once seeds have sprouted, thin them down to only one or two plants per pot. Spring is the ideal time for planting parsley seedlings in the garden.
How to Grow Parsley
Although this herb tolerates poor soil and drainage, it’s always preferable to situate plants in organic-rich, well-drained soil when growing parsley. Planting parsley in areas with full sun to partial shade is also recommended. This easy-care herb requires little maintenance, other than occasional watering or weeding, once established. These tasks, however, can be reduced by applying mulch around the plants.
Harvesting Parsley
Parsley can be harvested throughout the year, especially when growing parsley in a cold frame or indoors during winter. You can begin harvesting parsley once the leaves start to curl. For optimal flavor, pick parsley early in the day (morning hours) when the plant’s oil is strongest. Parsley is best used while fresh; however, it can be frozen until ready for use. It’s also better to freeze parsley rather than drying, as this may cause the herb to lose some of its flavor. Now that you know more about how to grow parsley, you can add it to your garden. Growing parsley not only adds a delicious herb to your garden, but a lovely one as well.
When to Plant Parsley Seeds
Parsley seeds can be started indoors or out. While they can be sown directly in the garden as soon as the soil is manageable in spring, the best time when to plant parsley seeds is to sow them indoors about six weeks beforehand. This is typically due to its slow germination rate, which can take up to three weeks or more. As parsley seeds are quite small, there’s no need for covering them with soil. When planting parsley, simply sprinkle seeds on top of the soil and mist well with water. Once seeds have sprouted, thin them down to only one or two plants per pot. Spring is the ideal time for planting parsley seedlings in the garden.
How to Grow Parsley
Although this herb tolerates poor soil and drainage, it’s always preferable to situate plants in organic-rich, well-drained soil when growing parsley. Planting parsley in areas with full sun to partial shade is also recommended. This easy-care herb requires little maintenance, other than occasional watering or weeding, once established. These tasks, however, can be reduced by applying mulch around the plants.
Harvesting Parsley
Parsley can be harvested throughout the year, especially when growing parsley in a cold frame or indoors during winter. You can begin harvesting parsley once the leaves start to curl. For optimal flavor, pick parsley early in the day (morning hours) when the plant’s oil is strongest. Parsley is best used while fresh; however, it can be frozen until ready for use. It’s also better to freeze parsley rather than drying, as this may cause the herb to lose some of its flavor. Now that you know more about how to grow parsley, you can add it to your garden. Growing parsley not only adds a delicious herb to your garden, but a lovely one as well.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月26日
Catmint is an aromatic herb that is commonly grown in the garden. It produces clusters of lavender-blue flowers amid mounds of gray-green foliage. This easily grown plant has an interesting history regarding its various uses in the landscape. For example, the herb is thought to have been first cultivated in the Roman town of Nepeti, where it was used as herbal tea and insect repellent. This is also believed to be the origin of its genus name, Nepeta.
Difference Between Catnip and Catmint
Many people wonder what is the difference between catnip and catmint. While basically considered the same plant that shares many of the same characteristics, there are differences between the two species. Catnip (Nepeta cataria) has less ornamental value in the garden than its catmint (Nepeta mussinii) counterpart. Catnip is also found to be highly attractive to cats, with many of them exhibiting a naturally induced euphoria around the plant. They may nibble on it or even roll around in the foliage. This type is most suitable for “cat friendly” gardens. If you don’t want your garden overrun with felines, plant catmint instead, which is much less attractive to them.
How to Grow Catmint
Catmint herb is easy to grow. These plants are good for mass planting or edging and are suitable near vegetables as an insect deterrent—especially aphids and Japanese beetles. Catmint can be grown in sun or partial shade with average, well-draining soil. They are even heat and drought tolerant, making them excellent plants for dry garden areas. Catmint is most often grown by seed or through division.
How & When to Plant Catmint
The seeds or divisions of catmint plant are planted in spring. They require plenty of space too and should be spaced (or thinned) to at least a foot or so apart. Overcrowded plants can lead to powdery mildew or leaf spot, especially in hot, humid climates. Caution is needed when planting some types of catmint plants, as they can be aggressive growers. Therefore, you may want to add some edging around them. Likewise, catmint can be planted and grown in containers.
Care of Catmint
Basic care of catmint is easy. Water catmint plants regularly until they become well established. Mulch will help retain moisture and keep down weeds. Once plants are a few inches tall, pinch them back to promote bushier growth. Catmint blooms throughout summer and fall. Deadheading spent blooms promotes additional flowering. It can also help prevent reseeding. Faassen’s catmint (Nepeta x faassenii) is sterile however, and doesn’t require deadheading. Shear the plants back to half their size in fall or following harvest.
Harvesting and Uses of Catmint Herb
Catmint can be used fresh, dried, or frozen for both culinary and herbal use. Harvest leaves as flowers begin to bloom, cutting top leaves, stems, and flowers if desired. Spread out to dry in a cool, ventilated area and store the dried herb in an airtight container or bag to preserve its potency. The leaves and shoots can be added to soups and sauces. Tea made from the leaves and flowers can be used for calming nerves and relieving coughs, congestion, and menstrual cramps.
Difference Between Catnip and Catmint
Many people wonder what is the difference between catnip and catmint. While basically considered the same plant that shares many of the same characteristics, there are differences between the two species. Catnip (Nepeta cataria) has less ornamental value in the garden than its catmint (Nepeta mussinii) counterpart. Catnip is also found to be highly attractive to cats, with many of them exhibiting a naturally induced euphoria around the plant. They may nibble on it or even roll around in the foliage. This type is most suitable for “cat friendly” gardens. If you don’t want your garden overrun with felines, plant catmint instead, which is much less attractive to them.
How to Grow Catmint
Catmint herb is easy to grow. These plants are good for mass planting or edging and are suitable near vegetables as an insect deterrent—especially aphids and Japanese beetles. Catmint can be grown in sun or partial shade with average, well-draining soil. They are even heat and drought tolerant, making them excellent plants for dry garden areas. Catmint is most often grown by seed or through division.
How & When to Plant Catmint
The seeds or divisions of catmint plant are planted in spring. They require plenty of space too and should be spaced (or thinned) to at least a foot or so apart. Overcrowded plants can lead to powdery mildew or leaf spot, especially in hot, humid climates. Caution is needed when planting some types of catmint plants, as they can be aggressive growers. Therefore, you may want to add some edging around them. Likewise, catmint can be planted and grown in containers.
Care of Catmint
Basic care of catmint is easy. Water catmint plants regularly until they become well established. Mulch will help retain moisture and keep down weeds. Once plants are a few inches tall, pinch them back to promote bushier growth. Catmint blooms throughout summer and fall. Deadheading spent blooms promotes additional flowering. It can also help prevent reseeding. Faassen’s catmint (Nepeta x faassenii) is sterile however, and doesn’t require deadheading. Shear the plants back to half their size in fall or following harvest.
Harvesting and Uses of Catmint Herb
Catmint can be used fresh, dried, or frozen for both culinary and herbal use. Harvest leaves as flowers begin to bloom, cutting top leaves, stems, and flowers if desired. Spread out to dry in a cool, ventilated area and store the dried herb in an airtight container or bag to preserve its potency. The leaves and shoots can be added to soups and sauces. Tea made from the leaves and flowers can be used for calming nerves and relieving coughs, congestion, and menstrual cramps.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月26日
Lots of people grow mint out in the garden and for those who know just how vigorous this herb plant is, then it’s no surprise to learn that it thrives easily in a potted environment just as well. In fact, not only can it grow happily in the garden and in pots, but growing mint indoors can also be achieved.
How to Grow Mint Indoors
Growing and planting mint indoors is easy. You can find mint growing indoors in a pot of soil or even in a bottle of water. For starters, you need a container with adequate drainage for healthy plant growth. Pot up your mint plant with a good potting mix, either a regular commercial type or one with equal amounts of sand, peat, and perlite mixed in.
Water the mint plant well after planting and place it in an area with indirect light, preferably an east-facing window during spring and summer or a west- or south-facing one in fall and winter. You’ll also want to locate your mint plant in an area with an indoor temperature of around 65-70 F. (18-21 C.) during the day and 55-60 F. (13-15 C.) at night.
If you wish to grow mint plants in water, simply take tip cuttings of about 5 to 6 inches in length from an established mint plant. Remove the bottom leaves and place the cuttings in a water-filled glass or bottle. Set this in a sunny window with at least four to six hours of light each day.
Care for Mint Growing Indoors
When growing mint inside, there are a few things necessary for its continual care. One is watering. These plants prefer to be kept moist but not overly wet. If the upper part of soil becomes dry to the touch, then watering is needed. Otherwise, try to keep it evenly moist. Humidity is another important factor, so mist the plant between watering or set the container on a water-filled tray of pebbles.
In addition, you should rotate the plant every three to four days or so to maintain a more even appearance, as plants tend to bend towards the light, becoming somewhat lopsided. If desired, you can move your mint outdoors for summer, too. While fertilizing isn’t a must with this plant, you can give it an occasional dose of all-purpose, water soluble fertilizer or fish emulsion. Mix the fertilizer at half strength. Don’t over fertilize, as this can cause the herb to lose its flavor.
How to Grow Mint Indoors
Growing and planting mint indoors is easy. You can find mint growing indoors in a pot of soil or even in a bottle of water. For starters, you need a container with adequate drainage for healthy plant growth. Pot up your mint plant with a good potting mix, either a regular commercial type or one with equal amounts of sand, peat, and perlite mixed in.
Water the mint plant well after planting and place it in an area with indirect light, preferably an east-facing window during spring and summer or a west- or south-facing one in fall and winter. You’ll also want to locate your mint plant in an area with an indoor temperature of around 65-70 F. (18-21 C.) during the day and 55-60 F. (13-15 C.) at night.
If you wish to grow mint plants in water, simply take tip cuttings of about 5 to 6 inches in length from an established mint plant. Remove the bottom leaves and place the cuttings in a water-filled glass or bottle. Set this in a sunny window with at least four to six hours of light each day.
Care for Mint Growing Indoors
When growing mint inside, there are a few things necessary for its continual care. One is watering. These plants prefer to be kept moist but not overly wet. If the upper part of soil becomes dry to the touch, then watering is needed. Otherwise, try to keep it evenly moist. Humidity is another important factor, so mist the plant between watering or set the container on a water-filled tray of pebbles.
In addition, you should rotate the plant every three to four days or so to maintain a more even appearance, as plants tend to bend towards the light, becoming somewhat lopsided. If desired, you can move your mint outdoors for summer, too. While fertilizing isn’t a must with this plant, you can give it an occasional dose of all-purpose, water soluble fertilizer or fish emulsion. Mix the fertilizer at half strength. Don’t over fertilize, as this can cause the herb to lose its flavor.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月26日
Mint is a fast-growing, aromatic herb plant in the Mentha genus. There are literally hundreds of mint plant varieties and far too many to name here. However, a number of these mint types are commonly grown in the garden. Keep reading for information on how to grow some of these different varieties of mint.
Growing Different Mint Plant Varieties
Most types of mint require the same, or similar, growing conditions. They like full sun to partial shade and most prefer moist, but well-draining, soil.
Another aspect that most mint types have in common is their invasive tendency. Therefore, regardless of the types of mint grown, care should be taken in keeping these plants under control — preferably with the use of containers. In addition to their invasiveness, consideration must also be given to spacing when growing various mint plant varieties in the garden. Different mint types should be planted as far apart as possible — like opposite ends of the garden. Why? True mint varieties are known to cross pollinate with other types of mint when planted within close proximity. This can result in characteristics from different mint types to appear in one plant, leading to the loss of the plant’s integrity with unfavorable scents or flavors.
Choosing Mint Plant Varieties
Each mint variety has its own flavor or scent, though some may be similar. Most, however, vary greatly between mint types. Be sure the type you choose not only is well suited to your growing region, but also its intended use in the garden. Not all mint varieties are used for culinary purposes. Some are better utilized for their aromatic properties or aesthetic appearances while others, like field mint, are normally treated as medicinal plants.
Types of Mint for the Garden
Listed below are some of the more commonly grown varieties of mint for the garden:
Peppermint
Spearmint
Pineapple mint
Apple mint (Woolly mint)
Pennyroyal
Ginger mint
Horsemint Red Raripila mint
Catmint
Chocolate mint
Orange mint
Lavender mint
Grapefruit mint
Calamint
Licorice mint
Basil mint
Chewing Gum mint
Watermint
Corn or Field mint
Growing Different Mint Plant Varieties
Most types of mint require the same, or similar, growing conditions. They like full sun to partial shade and most prefer moist, but well-draining, soil.
Another aspect that most mint types have in common is their invasive tendency. Therefore, regardless of the types of mint grown, care should be taken in keeping these plants under control — preferably with the use of containers. In addition to their invasiveness, consideration must also be given to spacing when growing various mint plant varieties in the garden. Different mint types should be planted as far apart as possible — like opposite ends of the garden. Why? True mint varieties are known to cross pollinate with other types of mint when planted within close proximity. This can result in characteristics from different mint types to appear in one plant, leading to the loss of the plant’s integrity with unfavorable scents or flavors.
Choosing Mint Plant Varieties
Each mint variety has its own flavor or scent, though some may be similar. Most, however, vary greatly between mint types. Be sure the type you choose not only is well suited to your growing region, but also its intended use in the garden. Not all mint varieties are used for culinary purposes. Some are better utilized for their aromatic properties or aesthetic appearances while others, like field mint, are normally treated as medicinal plants.
Types of Mint for the Garden
Listed below are some of the more commonly grown varieties of mint for the garden:
Peppermint
Spearmint
Pineapple mint
Apple mint (Woolly mint)
Pennyroyal
Ginger mint
Horsemint Red Raripila mint
Catmint
Chocolate mint
Orange mint
Lavender mint
Grapefruit mint
Calamint
Licorice mint
Basil mint
Chewing Gum mint
Watermint
Corn or Field mint
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月26日
What is a shiso herb? Shiso, otherwise known as perilla, beefsteak plant, Chinese basil and purple mint, is a member of the Lamiaceae or mint family. For centuries, growing perilla mint, or shiso, has been cultivated in China, India, Japan, Korea, Thailand, and other Asian countries but is more often classified as a weed in North America. Perilla mint plants are often found growing along fences, roadsides, in hay fields or pastures and are, hence, more often termed a weed in other countries. These mint plants are also quite toxic to cattle and other livestock, so it’s no wonder why shiso is considered more of a noxious, undesirable weed in some area of the world.
Uses for Perilla Mint Plants
Prized in Asian countries not only for its culinary uses, the oil extracted from these mint plants is also utilized as a valuable fuel source, while the leaves themselves are used medicinally and as a food coloring. The seeds from the perilla beefsteak plant are also eaten by people and as bird food. Perilla mint plants (Perilla frutescens) may also be grown as ornamentals due to their erect habitat and green or purplish-green to red serrated leaves. Growing perilla mint also has a distinctive minty aroma, especially when mature. In Japanese cuisine, where shiso is a common ingredient, there are two types of shiso: Aojiso and Akajiso (green and red). More recently, ethnic food markets in the United States carry many perilla mint plant products from fresh greens, oil, and condiments such as pickled plums or plum sauce. Perilla added to condiments not only colors the product but adds an antimicrobial agent to pickled food.
Oil from perilla mint is not only a fuel source in some countries but has recently been found to be an excellent source of omega-3 fatty acids and is now sold as such to health conscious Western consumers. Additionally, perilla mint plant oil is used similarly to tung or linseed oil and also in paints, lacquers, varnish, inks, linoleum and waterproof coating on cloth. This unsaturated oil is slightly unstable but is 2,000 times sweeter than sugar and four ti eight times sweeter than saccharin. This high sugar content makes it a great candidate for alcohol production for consumption, but more usually used in the manufacture of fragrances or perfumes.
How to Grow Perilla Shiso
So, sounds intriguing, yes? The question now then is how to grow perilla shiso? Growing perilla mint plants are summer annuals which do best in warm, humid climates. When cultivating perilla, its downfall is its limited seed viability in storage, so store seeds at lower temperatures and humidity to improve the storage life and plant before they are a year old. Seeds for perilla plants can be sown as soon as possible in the spring and will self pollinate. Plant perilla seedlings 6 to 12 inches apart in well-drained but moist soil with full to partial sun exposure or direct sow them in well-drained soil and lightly cover. The shiso seeds will germinate rapidly at 68 degrees F. (20 C.) or even a little cooler.
Perilla Shiso Care
Perilla shiso care requires a medium amount of water. If the weather is exceedingly warm and humid, the plants’ tops should be pinched back to encourage bushier, less rangy plant growth. Flowers of the growing perilla mint bloom from July to October and are white to purple, attaining their maximum height of 6 inches to 3 feet tall before dying off during the coming frost. After the first year of growing perilla mint plants, they will easily self-seed in successive seasons.
Uses for Perilla Mint Plants
Prized in Asian countries not only for its culinary uses, the oil extracted from these mint plants is also utilized as a valuable fuel source, while the leaves themselves are used medicinally and as a food coloring. The seeds from the perilla beefsteak plant are also eaten by people and as bird food. Perilla mint plants (Perilla frutescens) may also be grown as ornamentals due to their erect habitat and green or purplish-green to red serrated leaves. Growing perilla mint also has a distinctive minty aroma, especially when mature. In Japanese cuisine, where shiso is a common ingredient, there are two types of shiso: Aojiso and Akajiso (green and red). More recently, ethnic food markets in the United States carry many perilla mint plant products from fresh greens, oil, and condiments such as pickled plums or plum sauce. Perilla added to condiments not only colors the product but adds an antimicrobial agent to pickled food.
Oil from perilla mint is not only a fuel source in some countries but has recently been found to be an excellent source of omega-3 fatty acids and is now sold as such to health conscious Western consumers. Additionally, perilla mint plant oil is used similarly to tung or linseed oil and also in paints, lacquers, varnish, inks, linoleum and waterproof coating on cloth. This unsaturated oil is slightly unstable but is 2,000 times sweeter than sugar and four ti eight times sweeter than saccharin. This high sugar content makes it a great candidate for alcohol production for consumption, but more usually used in the manufacture of fragrances or perfumes.
How to Grow Perilla Shiso
So, sounds intriguing, yes? The question now then is how to grow perilla shiso? Growing perilla mint plants are summer annuals which do best in warm, humid climates. When cultivating perilla, its downfall is its limited seed viability in storage, so store seeds at lower temperatures and humidity to improve the storage life and plant before they are a year old. Seeds for perilla plants can be sown as soon as possible in the spring and will self pollinate. Plant perilla seedlings 6 to 12 inches apart in well-drained but moist soil with full to partial sun exposure or direct sow them in well-drained soil and lightly cover. The shiso seeds will germinate rapidly at 68 degrees F. (20 C.) or even a little cooler.
Perilla Shiso Care
Perilla shiso care requires a medium amount of water. If the weather is exceedingly warm and humid, the plants’ tops should be pinched back to encourage bushier, less rangy plant growth. Flowers of the growing perilla mint bloom from July to October and are white to purple, attaining their maximum height of 6 inches to 3 feet tall before dying off during the coming frost. After the first year of growing perilla mint plants, they will easily self-seed in successive seasons.
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