文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月25日
What is galangal? Pronounced guh-LANG-guh, galangal (Alpinia galangal) is often mistaken for ginger, although galangal roots are a little bigger and a lot firmer than ginger roots. Native to tropical Asia, galangal is a huge perennial plant grown primarily for its ornamental qualities and underground rhizomes, which are used to flavor a variety of ethnic dishes. What to learn how to grow galangal? Read on.
Galangal Plant Information
Galangal is a tropical plant that grows in USDA plant hardiness zones 9 and above. The plant requires partial shade and moist, fertile, well-drained soil.
Galangal rhizomes, or “hands,” widely available at ethnic supermarkets are ideal for planting. Many gardeners prefer to plant whole rhizomes, but if the rhizomes are too large, cut them into chunks with at least two “eyes.” Keep in mind that larger pieces produce bigger rhizomes at harvest time. Plant galangal after all danger of frost has passed in early spring, but be careful about planting if the soil is too soggy. Although galangal roots need moist soil, they may rot in cool, soggy conditions. Allow 2 to 5 inches between rhizomes. Add a few inches of compost or well-rotted manure if soil is poor. An application of a timed-release fertilizer gets growth off to a good start. The rhizomes will be ready to harvest in early winter, typically ten to 12 months after planting.
Galangal Plant Care
Galangal is a very low maintenance plant. Just water as needed to keep the soil evenly moist but not saturated. The plant also benefits from monthly fertilization, using a general purpose, water-soluble fertilizer. Leave a few galangal roots in the ground in autumn if you want to continue growing galangal the following spring. Mulch the plant well to protect the roots during the winter months.
Galangal Plant Information
Galangal is a tropical plant that grows in USDA plant hardiness zones 9 and above. The plant requires partial shade and moist, fertile, well-drained soil.
Galangal rhizomes, or “hands,” widely available at ethnic supermarkets are ideal for planting. Many gardeners prefer to plant whole rhizomes, but if the rhizomes are too large, cut them into chunks with at least two “eyes.” Keep in mind that larger pieces produce bigger rhizomes at harvest time. Plant galangal after all danger of frost has passed in early spring, but be careful about planting if the soil is too soggy. Although galangal roots need moist soil, they may rot in cool, soggy conditions. Allow 2 to 5 inches between rhizomes. Add a few inches of compost or well-rotted manure if soil is poor. An application of a timed-release fertilizer gets growth off to a good start. The rhizomes will be ready to harvest in early winter, typically ten to 12 months after planting.
Galangal Plant Care
Galangal is a very low maintenance plant. Just water as needed to keep the soil evenly moist but not saturated. The plant also benefits from monthly fertilization, using a general purpose, water-soluble fertilizer. Leave a few galangal roots in the ground in autumn if you want to continue growing galangal the following spring. Mulch the plant well to protect the roots during the winter months.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月25日
Dill weed is an essential flavoring for pickling. The feathery, fresh young leaves add a delicate flavor to fish, potatoes and sauces and yield thick stems at maturity. The plant bolts in high heat and produces umbrella-shaped flower appendages topped with hard little seeds. The herb literally grows “like a weed,” which is the genesis of the name dill weed. Learn how to harvest dill and how to store dill weed to keep the delicate flavor around all year.
How to Harvest Dill
Dill weed is preserved by drying the leaves, seeds or entire stem of the herb. Use pruners or sharp scissors when harvesting dill weed for drying. Cut just the leafy foliage or remove entire stems to dry for canning and seeds. Remove the stems when the seeds are brown and ripe. Dill flavor is best when it just begins to flower. Wash the herbs after harvesting dill weed to remove dirt and insects.
How to Dry Dill
Dill weed refers to the greenish blue leaves of the herb, while dill seeds are just the seeds of the dill plant. The overall name of dill is used to describe the entire plant. Dill weed is delicate even when fresh and should be added to dishes at the end of the cooking process to preserve the light, grassy flavor. Dry dill weed leaves lose some of their pungency and require more of the seasoning to produce the same flavor profile as fresh. Dill seeds are more flavorful and are often used where a stronger dill flavor is desired, such as in pickling.
Drying Dill Seeds
Drying dill seeds actually accentuates their flavor and ensures a supply of seasoning for the next pickle-canning. You can bunch dry dill seeds by tying the stems together and hanging the herbs upside down. Keep the bunches lightly bundled so air can circulate. Cover the bunches with paper bags that have been liberally punched with holes on the side. The bags will catch the seeds as they dry, along with any pieces of leaf.
Drying Dill Weed
Dill leaves or dill weed are used dried as a crushed aromatic. The flavor is very light but the aroma is strong and adds complexity to foods. Dry dill by clipping off the individual leaflets and laying them in one layer on a dehydrator sheet or bakers rack. The leaves will dry in less than a day in a food dehydrator but will take several days on a baker’s rack in a warm, dry location. Turn the leaves every day so they are evenly exposed to the warm air.
How to Store Dill Weed
Crumble or crush the leaflets after they are completely dry. Herbs must be stored in a cool, dark area to avoid diminishing the color and flavor. Dry dill weed will keep for four to six months and can be used just like fresh dill leaves.
How to Harvest Dill
Dill weed is preserved by drying the leaves, seeds or entire stem of the herb. Use pruners or sharp scissors when harvesting dill weed for drying. Cut just the leafy foliage or remove entire stems to dry for canning and seeds. Remove the stems when the seeds are brown and ripe. Dill flavor is best when it just begins to flower. Wash the herbs after harvesting dill weed to remove dirt and insects.
How to Dry Dill
Dill weed refers to the greenish blue leaves of the herb, while dill seeds are just the seeds of the dill plant. The overall name of dill is used to describe the entire plant. Dill weed is delicate even when fresh and should be added to dishes at the end of the cooking process to preserve the light, grassy flavor. Dry dill weed leaves lose some of their pungency and require more of the seasoning to produce the same flavor profile as fresh. Dill seeds are more flavorful and are often used where a stronger dill flavor is desired, such as in pickling.
Drying Dill Seeds
Drying dill seeds actually accentuates their flavor and ensures a supply of seasoning for the next pickle-canning. You can bunch dry dill seeds by tying the stems together and hanging the herbs upside down. Keep the bunches lightly bundled so air can circulate. Cover the bunches with paper bags that have been liberally punched with holes on the side. The bags will catch the seeds as they dry, along with any pieces of leaf.
Drying Dill Weed
Dill leaves or dill weed are used dried as a crushed aromatic. The flavor is very light but the aroma is strong and adds complexity to foods. Dry dill by clipping off the individual leaflets and laying them in one layer on a dehydrator sheet or bakers rack. The leaves will dry in less than a day in a food dehydrator but will take several days on a baker’s rack in a warm, dry location. Turn the leaves every day so they are evenly exposed to the warm air.
How to Store Dill Weed
Crumble or crush the leaflets after they are completely dry. Herbs must be stored in a cool, dark area to avoid diminishing the color and flavor. Dry dill weed will keep for four to six months and can be used just like fresh dill leaves.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月25日
Delicious on fish and a must for any self-respecting dill pickle lover, dill (Anethum graveolens) is an herb native to the Mediterranean. As with most herbs, dill is fairly easy to care for but it does have its share of dill plant pests. Read on to find out about getting rid of insects on dill and other dill plant care.
Pests on Dill Plants
Dill isn’t bothered by too many pests. That said, there are a few frequent insects that enjoy feasting on these plants.
Aphids
One of the more common pests on dill plants are aphids. This comes as no surprise since aphids seem to enjoy munching on everything. A few aphids are no big deal, but aphids tend to multiply rapidly and can then severely weaken the plant. Interestingly, you may have heard that if you have plants that are being attacked, you should plant dill near them. The dill acts as a magnetic to the aphids, drawing them to the herb, and removing the threat from other plants. Aphid pests on dill plants usually meet their downfall in the form of the herb’s flowers. The small flowers are a powerful attractor to ladybugs, and ladybugs just happen to love dining on aphids. If your dill is in bloom, the problem will probably take care of itself. If not, you can always buy some ladybugs and sprinkle them onto the aphid infested dill.
Caterpillars and Worms
Another dill plant pest is the parsley worm. These caterpillars will eventually become gorgeous black swallowtail butterflies. They are usually not so plentiful that they will destroy the dill, but if you want to avoid any damage, simply remove them by hand. Less benign, is the armyworm whose young larvae feed heavily wreaking havoc on foliage. The armyworm reproduces rapidly as well, with from 3-5 generations in a single year. Biological control of Bacillus thuringiensis can be used to parasitize the larvae. Chemical control for the home gardener is limited in its usefulness. Cutworm larvae can eat clean through stems at the soil line. These pests are active at night but can be seen when the soil is disturbed during the day in their tell-tale curled C-shape. Cutworms, sort of like aphids, like almost everything to eat. They are difficult to treat. Remove all plant detritus from the area post-harvest or at least two weeks prior to replanting. Use plastic or foil collars around the plant stems, dug down into the soil several inches to prevent the larvae from severing stems. Also, spread diatomaceous earth around the base of the plants which will cut the worms if they crawl over it.
Other Dill Pests
Other less common pests affecting dill plants include grasshoppers, tomato hornworms, slugs and snails.
Dill Plant Care and Pest Control
Dill plant care is simple but vital to the health of the plant. If the dill is in good health, generally getting rid of insects on dill is not imperative unless there is a severe infestation. Dill thrives in a full sun location in well-draining soil amended with organic fertilizer like compost. Sow the seeds in early spring once the ground has warmed. Plant the seeds just below the surface of the soil. Keep the plant regularly watered. A self-seeding annual, healthy dill will return year after year. The lovely lacy, yellow flowers will attract not only ladybugs, but parasitic wasps, which attack all manner of caterpillars. Between these two predator insects, dill stands a good chance of making it into those homemade dill pickles.
Pests on Dill Plants
Dill isn’t bothered by too many pests. That said, there are a few frequent insects that enjoy feasting on these plants.
Aphids
One of the more common pests on dill plants are aphids. This comes as no surprise since aphids seem to enjoy munching on everything. A few aphids are no big deal, but aphids tend to multiply rapidly and can then severely weaken the plant. Interestingly, you may have heard that if you have plants that are being attacked, you should plant dill near them. The dill acts as a magnetic to the aphids, drawing them to the herb, and removing the threat from other plants. Aphid pests on dill plants usually meet their downfall in the form of the herb’s flowers. The small flowers are a powerful attractor to ladybugs, and ladybugs just happen to love dining on aphids. If your dill is in bloom, the problem will probably take care of itself. If not, you can always buy some ladybugs and sprinkle them onto the aphid infested dill.
Caterpillars and Worms
Another dill plant pest is the parsley worm. These caterpillars will eventually become gorgeous black swallowtail butterflies. They are usually not so plentiful that they will destroy the dill, but if you want to avoid any damage, simply remove them by hand. Less benign, is the armyworm whose young larvae feed heavily wreaking havoc on foliage. The armyworm reproduces rapidly as well, with from 3-5 generations in a single year. Biological control of Bacillus thuringiensis can be used to parasitize the larvae. Chemical control for the home gardener is limited in its usefulness. Cutworm larvae can eat clean through stems at the soil line. These pests are active at night but can be seen when the soil is disturbed during the day in their tell-tale curled C-shape. Cutworms, sort of like aphids, like almost everything to eat. They are difficult to treat. Remove all plant detritus from the area post-harvest or at least two weeks prior to replanting. Use plastic or foil collars around the plant stems, dug down into the soil several inches to prevent the larvae from severing stems. Also, spread diatomaceous earth around the base of the plants which will cut the worms if they crawl over it.
Other Dill Pests
Other less common pests affecting dill plants include grasshoppers, tomato hornworms, slugs and snails.
Dill Plant Care and Pest Control
Dill plant care is simple but vital to the health of the plant. If the dill is in good health, generally getting rid of insects on dill is not imperative unless there is a severe infestation. Dill thrives in a full sun location in well-draining soil amended with organic fertilizer like compost. Sow the seeds in early spring once the ground has warmed. Plant the seeds just below the surface of the soil. Keep the plant regularly watered. A self-seeding annual, healthy dill will return year after year. The lovely lacy, yellow flowers will attract not only ladybugs, but parasitic wasps, which attack all manner of caterpillars. Between these two predator insects, dill stands a good chance of making it into those homemade dill pickles.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月25日
As with most herbs, dill (Anethum graveolens) is a fairly easy to grow plant. Even so, the gardener may have to deal with his or her share of dill plant problems, from pests to dill plant diseases. The following article contains information on identifying and treating diseases affecting dill plants.
Dill Plant Problems
Dill is an herbaceous plant grown as an annual. A member of the family Apiaceae, dill is cultivated for its leaves and seeds which are used in foods and medicinally. Dill means “to calm or soothe,” hinting at its ancient use to calm upset stomachs or colicky babies.
Believed to originate in the Mediterranean, dill (like other Mediterranean herbs) can be grown in a variety of soils but thrives in well-draining sandy loam, rich in organic matter. Again, like its Mediterranean relatives, dill is a sun lover and needs 6-8 hours of direct sun each day.
The plant is grown for either its seeds that are produced once the starburst shaped, yellow flower heads begin to die back or for its feathery, fern-like foliage. Dill does not like to be transplanted, so it is best to direct sow in the spring once all danger of frost has passed. Once the plants have emerged (7-21 days later), thin to 12-15 inches between plants. Thereafter, promote a bushy habit by regularly pruning the plants back and take care not to over water. Once the plants have established, they are less likely to succumb to dill plant problems. That said, there are always the aphids that seem to be drawn to anything green and a plethora of other pests that must be watched for. Dill plant diseases are generally more deadly than pest infestation, but pests often are the source of dill diseases. Identifying and prompt treating of these issues with dill are the keys to saving the dill plants.
Diseases of Dill
As mentioned, insects are often the vectors for disease and aphids are one of the major culprits. Aphid infestations may result in the dill acquiring Carrot Motley Dwarf disease. This disease is caused by two viruses, carrot redleaf virus and carrot mottle virus, both of which must be present to infect the plant. The disease causes yellow and red discoloration of leaves and general stunting of plant growth. As the name suggests, carrots have are the origin for this disease, the aphids just pass it along. To prevent this disease of dill, control aphids with insecticidal soap and avoid planting the herb near areas of the garden where carrots have overwintered. Other diseases affecting dill plants are not insect related at all but fungal. Cercospora leaf blight fungus is one such disease that causes necrotic areas on the plant accompanied by a characteristic halo. These dying blemishes begin to blend together, resulting in large necrotic regions with the result of leaf die off. This disease may be the result of infested seed that is then spread via wind, rain or irrigation. To thwart cercospora leaf blight, use disease free seeds, rotate crops, eliminate crop debris, and use fungicide sprays according to the manufacturer’s instructions. Another fungal disease, damping off, may also afflict dill. This disease results in soft, rotting seeds which do not germinate, or seedlings that emerge with reddish lesions around their stems and soon after die. Fungal spores can be spread in water, soil or on equipment. Treatment involves applying a fungicide to seeds prior to planting; planting in raised beds to aid in soil drainage; and avoiding planting in cool, wet, poorly draining soil. Additional fungal diseases that afflict dill are downy mildew fungus and powdery mildew fungus.
Downy mildew fungus appears as yellow spots on foliage accompanied by a white, fluffy growth on the underside of the leaves. As the disease progresses, the yellow spots begin to darken. This disease targets young, tender leaves and is fostered by wet leaves. Use disease free seed, don’t overcrowd the plants and rotate crops to minimize the incidence of downy mildew. Powdery mildew looks just what it sounds like, a powdery growth that attacks leaves and flower stalks. The results are chlorotic leaves and distorted blossoms. This fungal disease may float on air currents for long distances and is favored by conditions of high humidity combined with moderate temps. Avoid over fertilizing and apply protective fungicides to prevent this disease from affecting dill. If infection is spotted early in the season, treat with an application of sulfur.
Treating Issues with Dill
There are a few common denominators when treating disease issues with dill. These include:
Planting disease resistant seeds, when possible
Keeping the garden free of plant detritus and weeds that act as havens for disease and insects that transmit them
Treating insect infestations
Rotating crops
Planting dill in well-draining soil
Watering early in the morning at the base of the plants so the foliage does not stay wet
Using sanitation practices on tools, boots, and gloves to avoid the spread of disease
Dill Plant Problems
Dill is an herbaceous plant grown as an annual. A member of the family Apiaceae, dill is cultivated for its leaves and seeds which are used in foods and medicinally. Dill means “to calm or soothe,” hinting at its ancient use to calm upset stomachs or colicky babies.
Believed to originate in the Mediterranean, dill (like other Mediterranean herbs) can be grown in a variety of soils but thrives in well-draining sandy loam, rich in organic matter. Again, like its Mediterranean relatives, dill is a sun lover and needs 6-8 hours of direct sun each day.
The plant is grown for either its seeds that are produced once the starburst shaped, yellow flower heads begin to die back or for its feathery, fern-like foliage. Dill does not like to be transplanted, so it is best to direct sow in the spring once all danger of frost has passed. Once the plants have emerged (7-21 days later), thin to 12-15 inches between plants. Thereafter, promote a bushy habit by regularly pruning the plants back and take care not to over water. Once the plants have established, they are less likely to succumb to dill plant problems. That said, there are always the aphids that seem to be drawn to anything green and a plethora of other pests that must be watched for. Dill plant diseases are generally more deadly than pest infestation, but pests often are the source of dill diseases. Identifying and prompt treating of these issues with dill are the keys to saving the dill plants.
Diseases of Dill
As mentioned, insects are often the vectors for disease and aphids are one of the major culprits. Aphid infestations may result in the dill acquiring Carrot Motley Dwarf disease. This disease is caused by two viruses, carrot redleaf virus and carrot mottle virus, both of which must be present to infect the plant. The disease causes yellow and red discoloration of leaves and general stunting of plant growth. As the name suggests, carrots have are the origin for this disease, the aphids just pass it along. To prevent this disease of dill, control aphids with insecticidal soap and avoid planting the herb near areas of the garden where carrots have overwintered. Other diseases affecting dill plants are not insect related at all but fungal. Cercospora leaf blight fungus is one such disease that causes necrotic areas on the plant accompanied by a characteristic halo. These dying blemishes begin to blend together, resulting in large necrotic regions with the result of leaf die off. This disease may be the result of infested seed that is then spread via wind, rain or irrigation. To thwart cercospora leaf blight, use disease free seeds, rotate crops, eliminate crop debris, and use fungicide sprays according to the manufacturer’s instructions. Another fungal disease, damping off, may also afflict dill. This disease results in soft, rotting seeds which do not germinate, or seedlings that emerge with reddish lesions around their stems and soon after die. Fungal spores can be spread in water, soil or on equipment. Treatment involves applying a fungicide to seeds prior to planting; planting in raised beds to aid in soil drainage; and avoiding planting in cool, wet, poorly draining soil. Additional fungal diseases that afflict dill are downy mildew fungus and powdery mildew fungus.
Downy mildew fungus appears as yellow spots on foliage accompanied by a white, fluffy growth on the underside of the leaves. As the disease progresses, the yellow spots begin to darken. This disease targets young, tender leaves and is fostered by wet leaves. Use disease free seed, don’t overcrowd the plants and rotate crops to minimize the incidence of downy mildew. Powdery mildew looks just what it sounds like, a powdery growth that attacks leaves and flower stalks. The results are chlorotic leaves and distorted blossoms. This fungal disease may float on air currents for long distances and is favored by conditions of high humidity combined with moderate temps. Avoid over fertilizing and apply protective fungicides to prevent this disease from affecting dill. If infection is spotted early in the season, treat with an application of sulfur.
Treating Issues with Dill
There are a few common denominators when treating disease issues with dill. These include:
Planting disease resistant seeds, when possible
Keeping the garden free of plant detritus and weeds that act as havens for disease and insects that transmit them
Treating insect infestations
Rotating crops
Planting dill in well-draining soil
Watering early in the morning at the base of the plants so the foliage does not stay wet
Using sanitation practices on tools, boots, and gloves to avoid the spread of disease
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月25日
Curry leaf plants are a component of the Indian seasoning called curry. Curry seasoning is a compilation of many herbs and spices, whose flavor can sometimes come from curry leaf plants. Curry leaf herb is a culinary plant whose leaves are used as an aromatic and the fruit of the plant is a component of desserts in some Eastern nations.
About the Curry Leaf Herb
The curry leaf tree (Murraya koenigii) is a small bush or tree that only grows 13 to just under 20 feet in height. The plant is tropical to sub-tropical and produces small fragrant white flowers that become small, black, berry-like fruits. The fruit is edible, but the seed is poisonous and must be removed prior to use. The foliage is the real standout and are arranged alternately on the stem, pinnate and comprised of many leaflets. The aromatic scent is spicy and heady and best when the leaves are fresh.
Growing Curry Leaves
Curry leaf plants may be grown from cuttings or seed. The seed is the pit of the fruit and can either be cleaned or the entire fruit may be sown. Fresh seed shows the greatest rate of germination. Sow the seeds in potting soil and keep them damp but not wet. They will need a warm area of at least 68 degrees Fahrenheit (20 C.) to germinate. Growing curry leaf tree from seed is not an easy task because germination is fickle. Other methods are more consistent. You can also use fresh curry leaves with petiole or stem and start a plant. Treat the leaves as a cutting and insert into a soilless potting medium. Take a piece of stem from the tree that is about 3 inches long and has several leaves. Remove the bottom 1 inch of leaves. Immerse the bare stem into the medium and mist thoroughly. It will root in about three weeks if you keep it warm and moist. Growing curry leaves to produce a new plant is the easiest method of propagation. Growing curry leaf tree in the home garden is only advisable in areas without freezes. Curry leaf plant is frost tender but it can be grown indoors. Plant the tree in a well drained pot with good potting mix and place in a sunny area. Feed it weekly with a diluted solution of seaweed fertilizer and trim the leaves as needed. Watch the plant for mites and scale. Use an insecticidal soap to combat the pests. Curry leaf requires moderately moist soil. Curry leaf care is quite straight forward and even suitable for a beginner.
Using Curry Leaf Herb
Curry leaves have the strongest flavor and aroma when fresh. You can use them in soups, sauces and stews as you would use a bay leaf and fish it out when the leaf has steeped. You can also dry the leaves and crush them for use. Store them in a sealed glass jar out of light and use within a couple of months. Because they lose flavor quickly, growing curry leaf tree is the best way to have a good, constant supply of this flavorful herb.
About the Curry Leaf Herb
The curry leaf tree (Murraya koenigii) is a small bush or tree that only grows 13 to just under 20 feet in height. The plant is tropical to sub-tropical and produces small fragrant white flowers that become small, black, berry-like fruits. The fruit is edible, but the seed is poisonous and must be removed prior to use. The foliage is the real standout and are arranged alternately on the stem, pinnate and comprised of many leaflets. The aromatic scent is spicy and heady and best when the leaves are fresh.
Growing Curry Leaves
Curry leaf plants may be grown from cuttings or seed. The seed is the pit of the fruit and can either be cleaned or the entire fruit may be sown. Fresh seed shows the greatest rate of germination. Sow the seeds in potting soil and keep them damp but not wet. They will need a warm area of at least 68 degrees Fahrenheit (20 C.) to germinate. Growing curry leaf tree from seed is not an easy task because germination is fickle. Other methods are more consistent. You can also use fresh curry leaves with petiole or stem and start a plant. Treat the leaves as a cutting and insert into a soilless potting medium. Take a piece of stem from the tree that is about 3 inches long and has several leaves. Remove the bottom 1 inch of leaves. Immerse the bare stem into the medium and mist thoroughly. It will root in about three weeks if you keep it warm and moist. Growing curry leaves to produce a new plant is the easiest method of propagation. Growing curry leaf tree in the home garden is only advisable in areas without freezes. Curry leaf plant is frost tender but it can be grown indoors. Plant the tree in a well drained pot with good potting mix and place in a sunny area. Feed it weekly with a diluted solution of seaweed fertilizer and trim the leaves as needed. Watch the plant for mites and scale. Use an insecticidal soap to combat the pests. Curry leaf requires moderately moist soil. Curry leaf care is quite straight forward and even suitable for a beginner.
Using Curry Leaf Herb
Curry leaves have the strongest flavor and aroma when fresh. You can use them in soups, sauces and stews as you would use a bay leaf and fish it out when the leaf has steeped. You can also dry the leaves and crush them for use. Store them in a sealed glass jar out of light and use within a couple of months. Because they lose flavor quickly, growing curry leaf tree is the best way to have a good, constant supply of this flavorful herb.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月25日
Cotton growing with kids is easy and most will find this to be a fun project in addition to an educational one, especially once the finished product is harvested. Let’s learn more about how to grow cotton both indoors and out.
Cotton Plant Info
While cotton (Gossypium) has been around for a long time and grown mainly for its fibers, cotton growing with kids can be a fun learning experience. Not only will they get a chance to learn some cotton plant info, but they will love the fluffy, white product of all their labor. You can take the lesson further by exploring how your harvested cotton gets processed to make the clothes we wear. Cotton is a warm climate plant. It cannot tolerate temperatures cooler than 60°F. (15 C.). If you live in a cooler climate, it is better to start the plant indoors and then transplant it out once the temps have warmed up. Cotton is also self-pollinating, so you don’t need a lot of plants.
How to Grow Cotton Outdoors
Cotton is planted outdoors in spring once the threat of frost has passed. Check the soil temperature with a soil thermometer to ensure that it is at least 60 degrees F. six inches down. Keep checking this for a three-day period every morning. Once the soil maintains this temperature, you can work the soil, adding an inch or so of compost to it. Compost is a great source of nitrogen, potassium, and trace minerals necessary for strong plant growth. Help your child create a furrow with a garden hoe. Moisten the soil. Plant your cotton seeds in groups of three, one inch deep and four inches apart. Cover and firm the soil. Within a couple weeks, the seeds should begin to sprout. Under optimal conditions, they will sprout within a week but temps under 60 degrees F. will prevent or delay germination.
Growing Cotton Plants Indoors
Planting cotton seeds indoors is also possible, keeping temperatures over 60 degrees F. (which shouldn’t be difficult in the house). Pre-moisten potting soil and mix this with healthy soil from the garden. Cut the top from a ½ gallon milk jug and add some drainage holes in the bottom (You can also use any 4-6 inch pot of your choosing). Fill this container with the potting mix, leaving a space of about two inches or so from the top. Place about three cotton seeds on top of the soil and then cover with another inch or so of potting mix. Place in sunlight and keep moist, adding water as needed so the upper portion of soil does not get too dry. You should begin to see sprouts within 7-10 days. Once the seedlings have sprouted, you can thoroughly water the plants each week as part of your cotton plant care. Also, rotate the pot so the cotton seedlings grow uniformly. Transplant the strongest seedling to a larger container or outdoors, making sure to provide at least 4-5 hours of sunlight.
Cotton Plant Care
You will need to keep the plants watered throughout the summer months as part of optimal cotton plant care. At around four to five weeks, the plants will begin branching. By eight weeks you should start to notice the first squares, after which blooming soon follows. Once the creamy, white flowers have been pollinated, they will turn pink. At this point the plants will begin producing a boll (which becomes the ‘cotton ball.’). It is crucial that water be given during this entire process to ensure adequate growth and production. Cotton is ready for harvesting once all of the bolls have cracked open and looks like a fluffy ball. This normally occurs within four months of planting. The growing cotton plants will naturally dry up and shed their leaves just prior to the bolls cracking. Be sure to wear some glove when harvesting cotton from your plants to protect your little one’s hands from getting cut. Your harvested cotton can be dried and the seeds saved for planting again next year.
Cotton Plant Info
While cotton (Gossypium) has been around for a long time and grown mainly for its fibers, cotton growing with kids can be a fun learning experience. Not only will they get a chance to learn some cotton plant info, but they will love the fluffy, white product of all their labor. You can take the lesson further by exploring how your harvested cotton gets processed to make the clothes we wear. Cotton is a warm climate plant. It cannot tolerate temperatures cooler than 60°F. (15 C.). If you live in a cooler climate, it is better to start the plant indoors and then transplant it out once the temps have warmed up. Cotton is also self-pollinating, so you don’t need a lot of plants.
How to Grow Cotton Outdoors
Cotton is planted outdoors in spring once the threat of frost has passed. Check the soil temperature with a soil thermometer to ensure that it is at least 60 degrees F. six inches down. Keep checking this for a three-day period every morning. Once the soil maintains this temperature, you can work the soil, adding an inch or so of compost to it. Compost is a great source of nitrogen, potassium, and trace minerals necessary for strong plant growth. Help your child create a furrow with a garden hoe. Moisten the soil. Plant your cotton seeds in groups of three, one inch deep and four inches apart. Cover and firm the soil. Within a couple weeks, the seeds should begin to sprout. Under optimal conditions, they will sprout within a week but temps under 60 degrees F. will prevent or delay germination.
Growing Cotton Plants Indoors
Planting cotton seeds indoors is also possible, keeping temperatures over 60 degrees F. (which shouldn’t be difficult in the house). Pre-moisten potting soil and mix this with healthy soil from the garden. Cut the top from a ½ gallon milk jug and add some drainage holes in the bottom (You can also use any 4-6 inch pot of your choosing). Fill this container with the potting mix, leaving a space of about two inches or so from the top. Place about three cotton seeds on top of the soil and then cover with another inch or so of potting mix. Place in sunlight and keep moist, adding water as needed so the upper portion of soil does not get too dry. You should begin to see sprouts within 7-10 days. Once the seedlings have sprouted, you can thoroughly water the plants each week as part of your cotton plant care. Also, rotate the pot so the cotton seedlings grow uniformly. Transplant the strongest seedling to a larger container or outdoors, making sure to provide at least 4-5 hours of sunlight.
Cotton Plant Care
You will need to keep the plants watered throughout the summer months as part of optimal cotton plant care. At around four to five weeks, the plants will begin branching. By eight weeks you should start to notice the first squares, after which blooming soon follows. Once the creamy, white flowers have been pollinated, they will turn pink. At this point the plants will begin producing a boll (which becomes the ‘cotton ball.’). It is crucial that water be given during this entire process to ensure adequate growth and production. Cotton is ready for harvesting once all of the bolls have cracked open and looks like a fluffy ball. This normally occurs within four months of planting. The growing cotton plants will naturally dry up and shed their leaves just prior to the bolls cracking. Be sure to wear some glove when harvesting cotton from your plants to protect your little one’s hands from getting cut. Your harvested cotton can be dried and the seeds saved for planting again next year.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月25日
Cotton plants have flowers that resemble hibiscus and seed pods that you can use in dried arrangements. Your neighbors will ask about this attractive and unique garden plant, and they won’t believe it when you tell them what you’re growing. Find out how to sow cotton seeds in this article.
Cotton Seed Planting
Before you begin, you should know that it is illegal to grow cotton in your garden if you live in a state where it’s grown commercially. That’s because of the boll weevil eradication programs, which require the growers to use traps that the programs monitor. The eradication zone runs from Virginia to Texas and as far west as Missouri. Call your Cooperative Extension Service if you aren’t sure whether you are in the zone.
Cotton Seed Placement
Plant cotton seeds in a location with loose, rich soil where the plants will receive at least four or five hours of direct sunlight every day. You can grow it in a container, but the container must be at least 36 inches deep. It helps to work an inch or so of compost into the soil before planting. Putting them in the ground too soon slows germination. Wait until temperatures are consistently above 60 degrees F. (15 C.). It takes 65 to 75 days of temperatures above 60 degrees Fahrenheit for cotton to go from seed to flower. The plants need an additional 50 days after the flowers bloom for the seed pods to mature. Gardeners sowing cotton seeds in cool climates may find that they can bring the plants to flower, but don’t have enough time remaining to watch the seed pods mature.
How to Plant a Cotton Seed
Sow the seeds when the soil temperature is close to 60 degrees F. (15 C.) first thing in the morning for several consecutive days. If the soil is too cool, the seeds will rot. Plant the seeds in groups of 3, spacing them 4 inches apart. Cover them with about an inch of soil. Water the soil so that the moisture penetrates to a depth of at least six inches. You shouldn’t have to water again until seedlings emerge. Gardeners new to planting cotton may wonder which way to plant cotton seeds; in other words, which way is up or down. The root will emerge from the tip of the seed, but you don’t have to concern yourself with placing the seed in the soil just so. No matter how you plant it, the seed will sort itself out.
Cotton Seed Planting
Before you begin, you should know that it is illegal to grow cotton in your garden if you live in a state where it’s grown commercially. That’s because of the boll weevil eradication programs, which require the growers to use traps that the programs monitor. The eradication zone runs from Virginia to Texas and as far west as Missouri. Call your Cooperative Extension Service if you aren’t sure whether you are in the zone.
Cotton Seed Placement
Plant cotton seeds in a location with loose, rich soil where the plants will receive at least four or five hours of direct sunlight every day. You can grow it in a container, but the container must be at least 36 inches deep. It helps to work an inch or so of compost into the soil before planting. Putting them in the ground too soon slows germination. Wait until temperatures are consistently above 60 degrees F. (15 C.). It takes 65 to 75 days of temperatures above 60 degrees Fahrenheit for cotton to go from seed to flower. The plants need an additional 50 days after the flowers bloom for the seed pods to mature. Gardeners sowing cotton seeds in cool climates may find that they can bring the plants to flower, but don’t have enough time remaining to watch the seed pods mature.
How to Plant a Cotton Seed
Sow the seeds when the soil temperature is close to 60 degrees F. (15 C.) first thing in the morning for several consecutive days. If the soil is too cool, the seeds will rot. Plant the seeds in groups of 3, spacing them 4 inches apart. Cover them with about an inch of soil. Water the soil so that the moisture penetrates to a depth of at least six inches. You shouldn’t have to water again until seedlings emerge. Gardeners new to planting cotton may wonder which way to plant cotton seeds; in other words, which way is up or down. The root will emerge from the tip of the seed, but you don’t have to concern yourself with placing the seed in the soil just so. No matter how you plant it, the seed will sort itself out.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月25日
Comfrey is more than just an herb found in cottage gardens and seasoning blends. This old fashioned herb has been used as both a medicinal plant and food crop for grazing animals and hogs. The large hairy leaves are an excellent source of the three macro-nutrients found in fertilizer. As such, it makes an excellent liquid fertilizer or composted tea to feed plants and help reduce insect pests. Making comfrey tea for plants is easy and requires no special skills or tools. Try comfrey fertilizer on your plants and see the benefits in your garden.
Comfrey as a Fertilizer
All plants need specific macro-nutrients for maximum growth, bloom and fruiting. These are nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium. Much like humans, they also need micro-nutrients such as manganese and calcium. Comfrey has the three major nutrients plus high levels of calcium, which can be very beneficial if harvested and made into comfrey tea for plants. This nutrient-rich food is applied as a liquid soil drench or as a foliar spray. The composted leaves yield a rich deep greenish-brown liquid. The nitrogen content in comfrey fertilizer helps with green leafy growth. The phosphorus helps the plants remain vigorous and fight off disease and pest damage. Potassium is instrumental in flower and fruit production.
Comfrey Plant Food
Comfrey is a hardy perennial plant that grows quickly. The plant needs no special care and grows in partial shade to sun. Harvest the leaves and put them just halfway in a container. Wear long sleeves and gloves to protect your hands and arms from the prickly hairs on the leaves. Making comfrey tea will only take a few weeks. Weight the leaves with something heavy to hold them down and then fill the container with water. In about 20 days you can strain out the leaves and the deep brew is ready to add to your containers or spray on garden beds. Dilute the comfrey plant food with water by half before you apply to plants. Use the removed leaf debris as a side dressing along your vegetable plants. You can also try using comfrey as mulch or as a compost enhancer.
Comfrey Fertilizer and Mulch
The herb’s leaves are easy to use as mulch. Nature will take its course and soon complete the rotting process, allowing the nutrients to seep into the ground. Just spread the leaves around the edges of plant roots and then bury them with 2 inches of soil. You can also dig a trench 6 to 8 inches deep and bury chopped up leaves. Plant fruiting vegetable seeds on top but avoid leafy and root crops. Comfrey as a fertilizer has many forms, all of which are easy to use and make. The best thing about the plant is you can cut the leaves several times in a season for a constant supply of this nutrient-rich, useful herb.
Comfrey as a Fertilizer
All plants need specific macro-nutrients for maximum growth, bloom and fruiting. These are nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium. Much like humans, they also need micro-nutrients such as manganese and calcium. Comfrey has the three major nutrients plus high levels of calcium, which can be very beneficial if harvested and made into comfrey tea for plants. This nutrient-rich food is applied as a liquid soil drench or as a foliar spray. The composted leaves yield a rich deep greenish-brown liquid. The nitrogen content in comfrey fertilizer helps with green leafy growth. The phosphorus helps the plants remain vigorous and fight off disease and pest damage. Potassium is instrumental in flower and fruit production.
Comfrey Plant Food
Comfrey is a hardy perennial plant that grows quickly. The plant needs no special care and grows in partial shade to sun. Harvest the leaves and put them just halfway in a container. Wear long sleeves and gloves to protect your hands and arms from the prickly hairs on the leaves. Making comfrey tea will only take a few weeks. Weight the leaves with something heavy to hold them down and then fill the container with water. In about 20 days you can strain out the leaves and the deep brew is ready to add to your containers or spray on garden beds. Dilute the comfrey plant food with water by half before you apply to plants. Use the removed leaf debris as a side dressing along your vegetable plants. You can also try using comfrey as mulch or as a compost enhancer.
Comfrey Fertilizer and Mulch
The herb’s leaves are easy to use as mulch. Nature will take its course and soon complete the rotting process, allowing the nutrients to seep into the ground. Just spread the leaves around the edges of plant roots and then bury them with 2 inches of soil. You can also dig a trench 6 to 8 inches deep and bury chopped up leaves. Plant fruiting vegetable seeds on top but avoid leafy and root crops. Comfrey as a fertilizer has many forms, all of which are easy to use and make. The best thing about the plant is you can cut the leaves several times in a season for a constant supply of this nutrient-rich, useful herb.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月25日
Growing comfrey plants in the garden can offer a wide variety of uses. Attractive and beneficial, this plant will add something extra to your medicinal herb arsenal. Let’s learn more about growing this herb in the garden and which comfrey uses are generally employed.
What is Comfrey?
Symphytum officinale, or comfrey herb plant, has a long history of use as a medicinal herb but not as a culinary plant. Otherwise known as knitbone or slippery root, comfrey plants have been used medicinally since 400 BC to stop heavy bleeding and to treat bronchial issues. From the family Boraginaceae, comfrey is a perennial herb with a spreading habit that attains a height of up to 4 feet. This plant is native to Europe and Asia where is thrives in moist, shady locations and bears ½-inch long flowers in May. The leaves of the comfrey are deep green in color, hairy and 10 inches or so in length.
Growing Comfrey Plants
Growing comfrey plants requires a climate in hardiness zone USDA 3-9 (although some ornamental varieties are only hardy to zone 5) with rich, moist, alkaline soil (pH of 6.7-7.3). Comfrey plants generally prefer shade to part shade exposures in warm moist soil, although some cultivars require full sunlight to attain highest yields. There are some aggressive species and many self-sow readily. Propagation can be done via seed, division or separation. Sow comfrey seeds in fall or early spring directly in the garden or in a cold frame, and pot seedlings to be over wintered inside. Division of comfrey herb plants may occur at any time; however, spring is suggested. Divide by cutting off 3 inches of root below the soil level and then plant directly into a pot or another area of the garden. As comfrey can be an aggressive spreader, you may want to plant within a physical barrier and deadhead flowers to rein in its spreading habit. Comfrey plants are easy to grow and require very little maintenance once established. This perennial is generally frost and drought hardy as well as being primarily disease and pest resistant.
Comfrey Uses
As mentioned above, the comfrey herb plant has a long history of medicinal usage. Useful not only for staunching blood flow and arresting some bronchial ailments, comfrey has also been used to heal broken bones. Comfrey tea is often ingested for internal illness and poultices are applied to external ailments. Comfrey contains high amounts of allantioin (also found in nursing mother’s milk) and is said to increase the rate of cell growth, which in turn increases the number of white blood cells. The application of allantoin has been shown to heal wounds and burns more quickly and promotes healthy skin with high mucilage content. Due to this by-product of moisturizing and soothing, comfrey may be added to some cosmetics, cream, lotions and some people even add it to their bath water. At one time, comfrey herb plant was used as a forage crop but has been found to be unpalatable to some animals and recently has also been found to be possibly carcinogenic. Today the herb is restricted as a food crop and essentially used commercially for cosmetics and ornamental uses, including its use as a dye. Comfrey fertilizer is also used for composting, mulching or green manure. Some people eat comfrey, as it is a great source of plant-derived vitamin B12 primarily for vegetarians and vegans. Larger amounts of essential amino acids are found in turnip greens and spinach, so the jury is still out about whether the beneficial nutrition outweighs the possible harmful carcinogenic issues.
What is Comfrey?
Symphytum officinale, or comfrey herb plant, has a long history of use as a medicinal herb but not as a culinary plant. Otherwise known as knitbone or slippery root, comfrey plants have been used medicinally since 400 BC to stop heavy bleeding and to treat bronchial issues. From the family Boraginaceae, comfrey is a perennial herb with a spreading habit that attains a height of up to 4 feet. This plant is native to Europe and Asia where is thrives in moist, shady locations and bears ½-inch long flowers in May. The leaves of the comfrey are deep green in color, hairy and 10 inches or so in length.
Growing Comfrey Plants
Growing comfrey plants requires a climate in hardiness zone USDA 3-9 (although some ornamental varieties are only hardy to zone 5) with rich, moist, alkaline soil (pH of 6.7-7.3). Comfrey plants generally prefer shade to part shade exposures in warm moist soil, although some cultivars require full sunlight to attain highest yields. There are some aggressive species and many self-sow readily. Propagation can be done via seed, division or separation. Sow comfrey seeds in fall or early spring directly in the garden or in a cold frame, and pot seedlings to be over wintered inside. Division of comfrey herb plants may occur at any time; however, spring is suggested. Divide by cutting off 3 inches of root below the soil level and then plant directly into a pot or another area of the garden. As comfrey can be an aggressive spreader, you may want to plant within a physical barrier and deadhead flowers to rein in its spreading habit. Comfrey plants are easy to grow and require very little maintenance once established. This perennial is generally frost and drought hardy as well as being primarily disease and pest resistant.
Comfrey Uses
As mentioned above, the comfrey herb plant has a long history of medicinal usage. Useful not only for staunching blood flow and arresting some bronchial ailments, comfrey has also been used to heal broken bones. Comfrey tea is often ingested for internal illness and poultices are applied to external ailments. Comfrey contains high amounts of allantioin (also found in nursing mother’s milk) and is said to increase the rate of cell growth, which in turn increases the number of white blood cells. The application of allantoin has been shown to heal wounds and burns more quickly and promotes healthy skin with high mucilage content. Due to this by-product of moisturizing and soothing, comfrey may be added to some cosmetics, cream, lotions and some people even add it to their bath water. At one time, comfrey herb plant was used as a forage crop but has been found to be unpalatable to some animals and recently has also been found to be possibly carcinogenic. Today the herb is restricted as a food crop and essentially used commercially for cosmetics and ornamental uses, including its use as a dye. Comfrey fertilizer is also used for composting, mulching or green manure. Some people eat comfrey, as it is a great source of plant-derived vitamin B12 primarily for vegetarians and vegans. Larger amounts of essential amino acids are found in turnip greens and spinach, so the jury is still out about whether the beneficial nutrition outweighs the possible harmful carcinogenic issues.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月25日
If there were an award for “easiest herb to grow,” growing chives (Allium schoenoprasum) would win that award. Learning how to grow chives is so easy that even a child can do it, which makes this plant an excellent herb to help introduce children to herb gardening.
How to Plant Chives from Divisions
Divisions are the most common way how to plant chives. Find an established clump of chives in early spring or mid fall. Gently dig the clump and pull away a smaller clump from the main clump. The smaller clump should have at least five to 10 bulbs. Transplant this small clump to the desired location in your garden where you will be growing chives.
How to Plant Chives from Seeds
While chives are frequently grown from divisions, they are just as easy to start from seeds. Chive can be started indoors or outdoors. Plant chives seeds about 1/4-inch deep in the soil. Water well. If you’re planting chive seeds indoors, place the pot in a dark spot in temperatures 60 to 70 F. (15 to 21 C.) until the seeds sprout, then move them into the light. When the chives reach 6 inches, you can transplant them to the garden. If you’re planting the chive seeds outdoors, wait ’till after the last frost to plant the seeds. The seeds may take a little extra time to sprout until the soil warms up.
Where to Grow Chives
Chives will grow just about anywhere, but prefer strong light and rich soil. Chives also don’t do as well in soil that is too wet or too dry.
Growing Chives Indoors
Growing chives indoors is also easy. Chives do very well indoors and will frequently be the herb that will do the best in your indoor herb garden. The best way how to grow chives indoors is to plant them in a pot that drains well, but is filled with a good potting soil. Place the chives where they will get bright light. Continue harvesting chives as you would if they were outdoors.
Harvesting Chives
Harvesting chives is as easy as growing chives. Once the chives are about a foot tall, simply snip off what you need. When harvesting chives, you can cut the chive plant back to half its size without harming the plant. If your chive plant starts to flower, the flowers are edible as well. Add the chive flowers to your salad or as decorations for soup. Knowing how to grow chives is as easy as knowing how to chew bubble gum. Add these tasty herbs to your garden today.
How to Plant Chives from Divisions
Divisions are the most common way how to plant chives. Find an established clump of chives in early spring or mid fall. Gently dig the clump and pull away a smaller clump from the main clump. The smaller clump should have at least five to 10 bulbs. Transplant this small clump to the desired location in your garden where you will be growing chives.
How to Plant Chives from Seeds
While chives are frequently grown from divisions, they are just as easy to start from seeds. Chive can be started indoors or outdoors. Plant chives seeds about 1/4-inch deep in the soil. Water well. If you’re planting chive seeds indoors, place the pot in a dark spot in temperatures 60 to 70 F. (15 to 21 C.) until the seeds sprout, then move them into the light. When the chives reach 6 inches, you can transplant them to the garden. If you’re planting the chive seeds outdoors, wait ’till after the last frost to plant the seeds. The seeds may take a little extra time to sprout until the soil warms up.
Where to Grow Chives
Chives will grow just about anywhere, but prefer strong light and rich soil. Chives also don’t do as well in soil that is too wet or too dry.
Growing Chives Indoors
Growing chives indoors is also easy. Chives do very well indoors and will frequently be the herb that will do the best in your indoor herb garden. The best way how to grow chives indoors is to plant them in a pot that drains well, but is filled with a good potting soil. Place the chives where they will get bright light. Continue harvesting chives as you would if they were outdoors.
Harvesting Chives
Harvesting chives is as easy as growing chives. Once the chives are about a foot tall, simply snip off what you need. When harvesting chives, you can cut the chive plant back to half its size without harming the plant. If your chive plant starts to flower, the flowers are edible as well. Add the chive flowers to your salad or as decorations for soup. Knowing how to grow chives is as easy as knowing how to chew bubble gum. Add these tasty herbs to your garden today.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月25日
Combining uses for plants in the garden brings a utilitarian and beautification aspect to the landscape. An example might be planting culinary or medicinal herbs that also bloom or have appealing foliage. Bupleurum is an excellent plant for such use. What is bupleurum? It is a plant with a long history as an Asian herbal medicine and is a lovely foil for many other types of plants. Growing bupleurum in the garden bed brings in traditional natural medicine paired with unmatched annual color.
What is Bupleurum?
Although bupleurum is from Asia, it can’t really be classed as a cool season or warm season annual. The plant is hardy in United States Department of Agriculture zones 3 to10, a pretty broad spectrum for a leafy herb. Most gardeners across North America and beyond can learn how to grow bupleurum and keep a ready supply of this useful herb on hand, either fresh or dried.
Once a common name among Chinese herb plant info, Bupleurum gibraltaricum, or hare’s ear, grows readily from seed. It can be recognized by bluish-green foliage which resembles eucalyptus leaves. The flowers are useful in a cut garden and arrive in yellowish green umbels. Most species grow about 24 inches tall (61 cm.) with a 12-inch spread (30.5 cm.). Although the plant is generally considered to be annual, it can be a short-lived perennial in frost-free zones. The plant has a dense, compact habit that contrasts nicely with other herbs or when added to the cut flower garden. The herb blooms from mid-summer all the way into fall and the first frost. Bupleurum is closely related to fennel, dill and other umbel-forming plants.
Chinese Herb Plant Info
Unless you are a long-time herbalist or licensed practitioner of herbal medicine, it is inadvisable to try to medicate yourself with this herb. However, it has been used for centuries to relieve such problems as arthritis, menopause, skin ailments, some ulcers and mental disorders. It has even been found to have use calming the withdrawal of steroid use. Much of the plant’s power comes from the high level of saponins found concentrated in the roots. Expert advice warns against side effects such as dizziness and headaches. Most of us wouldn’t be growing bupleurum for such uses, but it is nonetheless an attractive addition to any landscape situation.
How to Grow Bupleurum
Seed germination can be capricious, but starting the herb from seed is the most common method. Sow seed in a well-draining, prepared garden bed when soil temperatures are at least 60 degrees Fahrenheit (16 C.). Surface sow and cover with a light dusting of soil. Keep moderately moist until germination, usually in 14 days. Thin plants until they are spaced 12 inches apart (30.5 cm). In frost free zones, divide the plant in spring. Bupleurum needs little extra food and has few insect and pest issues. As a cut flower it lasts for 7 to 10 days. This lovely plant is underused but care of bupleurum plants is relatively easy and low maintenance. Disclaimer: The contents of this article is for educational and gardening purposes only. Before using ANY herb or plant for medicinal purposes, please consult a physician or a medical herbalist for advice.
What is Bupleurum?
Although bupleurum is from Asia, it can’t really be classed as a cool season or warm season annual. The plant is hardy in United States Department of Agriculture zones 3 to10, a pretty broad spectrum for a leafy herb. Most gardeners across North America and beyond can learn how to grow bupleurum and keep a ready supply of this useful herb on hand, either fresh or dried.
Once a common name among Chinese herb plant info, Bupleurum gibraltaricum, or hare’s ear, grows readily from seed. It can be recognized by bluish-green foliage which resembles eucalyptus leaves. The flowers are useful in a cut garden and arrive in yellowish green umbels. Most species grow about 24 inches tall (61 cm.) with a 12-inch spread (30.5 cm.). Although the plant is generally considered to be annual, it can be a short-lived perennial in frost-free zones. The plant has a dense, compact habit that contrasts nicely with other herbs or when added to the cut flower garden. The herb blooms from mid-summer all the way into fall and the first frost. Bupleurum is closely related to fennel, dill and other umbel-forming plants.
Chinese Herb Plant Info
Unless you are a long-time herbalist or licensed practitioner of herbal medicine, it is inadvisable to try to medicate yourself with this herb. However, it has been used for centuries to relieve such problems as arthritis, menopause, skin ailments, some ulcers and mental disorders. It has even been found to have use calming the withdrawal of steroid use. Much of the plant’s power comes from the high level of saponins found concentrated in the roots. Expert advice warns against side effects such as dizziness and headaches. Most of us wouldn’t be growing bupleurum for such uses, but it is nonetheless an attractive addition to any landscape situation.
How to Grow Bupleurum
Seed germination can be capricious, but starting the herb from seed is the most common method. Sow seed in a well-draining, prepared garden bed when soil temperatures are at least 60 degrees Fahrenheit (16 C.). Surface sow and cover with a light dusting of soil. Keep moderately moist until germination, usually in 14 days. Thin plants until they are spaced 12 inches apart (30.5 cm). In frost free zones, divide the plant in spring. Bupleurum needs little extra food and has few insect and pest issues. As a cut flower it lasts for 7 to 10 days. This lovely plant is underused but care of bupleurum plants is relatively easy and low maintenance. Disclaimer: The contents of this article is for educational and gardening purposes only. Before using ANY herb or plant for medicinal purposes, please consult a physician or a medical herbalist for advice.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月25日
You’ve probably heard about black cohosh with respect to women’s health. This interesting herb plant has much to offer for those wishing to grow it. Keep reading for more information on black cohosh plant care.
About Black Cohosh Plants
Found in the eastern United States, black cohosh plants are herbaceous wildflowers with an affinity for moist, partially shaded growing areas. Black cohosh is a member of the Ranunculaceae family, Cimicifuga reacemosa, and commonly referred to as black snakeroot or bugbane. Growing black cohosh gets the name ‘Bugbane’ in reference to its unpleasant odor, which renders it repellent to insects.
This wildflower has small plumes of star-shaped white flowers that soar upwards of 8 feet (more commonly 4 to 6 feet tall) above deep green, fern-like leaves. Growing black cohosh plants in the home landscape will definitively lend some drama due to its spectacular height and late summer blooms. Black cohosh perennials have foliage similar to that of astilbe, sharply serrated, and show themselves off nicely in shade gardens.
Black Cohosh Herb Benefits
Native American people once used growing black cohosh plants for a medley of medical issues, from snake bites to gynecological conditions. During the 19th century, physicians availed themselves of black cohosh herb benefits with regards to fever reduction, menstrual cramping, and arthritis pain. Additional benefits deemed the plant useful in the treatment of sore throats and bronchitis. Most recently, black cohosh has been utilized as an alternative medicine in the treatment of menopausal and premenopausal symptoms with a proven “estrogen-like” balm to reduce disagreeable symptoms, most especially hot flashes and night sweats. The roots and rhizomes of black cohosh are the medicinal portion of the plant and will be ready for harvesting three to five years after planting.
Black Cohosh Plant Care
In order to plant black cohosh in the home garden, either purchase seeds from a reputable nursery or collect your own. To collect seeds, do so in the fall when the seeds are mature and have dried out in their capsules; they will have started to split open and when shaken make a rattling sound. Sow these seeds immediately. Seeds for growing black cohosh plants must be stratified or exposed to a warm/cold/warm cycle to stimulate germination. To stratify the black cohosh seeds, expose them to 70 degrees F. (21 C.) for two weeks, and then 40 degrees F. (4 C.) for three months. Once the seeds have gone through this process, plant them 1 ½ to 2 inches apart and about ¼ inch deep in prepared moist soil that is high in organic matter and covered with a 1-inch layer of mulch. Although this herb prefers shade, it will grow in full sun; however, the plants will be of a lighter shade of green and may have more of a propensity for scalding of the foliage. You may want to sow seeds in a cold frame for germination the following spring if you have a particularly hostile climate. Black cohosh may also be propagated via division or separation in the spring or fall but not sooner than three years after planting. Maintain a consistently moist soil for your black cohosh plants, as they dislike drying out. Additionally, tall flower stalks may likely need staking. These perennials are slow growers and may require a little patience but will lend visual interest in the home landscape. Even the spent seed casings may be left throughout the winter to add texture to the garden.
About Black Cohosh Plants
Found in the eastern United States, black cohosh plants are herbaceous wildflowers with an affinity for moist, partially shaded growing areas. Black cohosh is a member of the Ranunculaceae family, Cimicifuga reacemosa, and commonly referred to as black snakeroot or bugbane. Growing black cohosh gets the name ‘Bugbane’ in reference to its unpleasant odor, which renders it repellent to insects.
This wildflower has small plumes of star-shaped white flowers that soar upwards of 8 feet (more commonly 4 to 6 feet tall) above deep green, fern-like leaves. Growing black cohosh plants in the home landscape will definitively lend some drama due to its spectacular height and late summer blooms. Black cohosh perennials have foliage similar to that of astilbe, sharply serrated, and show themselves off nicely in shade gardens.
Black Cohosh Herb Benefits
Native American people once used growing black cohosh plants for a medley of medical issues, from snake bites to gynecological conditions. During the 19th century, physicians availed themselves of black cohosh herb benefits with regards to fever reduction, menstrual cramping, and arthritis pain. Additional benefits deemed the plant useful in the treatment of sore throats and bronchitis. Most recently, black cohosh has been utilized as an alternative medicine in the treatment of menopausal and premenopausal symptoms with a proven “estrogen-like” balm to reduce disagreeable symptoms, most especially hot flashes and night sweats. The roots and rhizomes of black cohosh are the medicinal portion of the plant and will be ready for harvesting three to five years after planting.
Black Cohosh Plant Care
In order to plant black cohosh in the home garden, either purchase seeds from a reputable nursery or collect your own. To collect seeds, do so in the fall when the seeds are mature and have dried out in their capsules; they will have started to split open and when shaken make a rattling sound. Sow these seeds immediately. Seeds for growing black cohosh plants must be stratified or exposed to a warm/cold/warm cycle to stimulate germination. To stratify the black cohosh seeds, expose them to 70 degrees F. (21 C.) for two weeks, and then 40 degrees F. (4 C.) for three months. Once the seeds have gone through this process, plant them 1 ½ to 2 inches apart and about ¼ inch deep in prepared moist soil that is high in organic matter and covered with a 1-inch layer of mulch. Although this herb prefers shade, it will grow in full sun; however, the plants will be of a lighter shade of green and may have more of a propensity for scalding of the foliage. You may want to sow seeds in a cold frame for germination the following spring if you have a particularly hostile climate. Black cohosh may also be propagated via division or separation in the spring or fall but not sooner than three years after planting. Maintain a consistently moist soil for your black cohosh plants, as they dislike drying out. Additionally, tall flower stalks may likely need staking. These perennials are slow growers and may require a little patience but will lend visual interest in the home landscape. Even the spent seed casings may be left throughout the winter to add texture to the garden.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月25日
You’ve probably heard all the buzz about Bacopa and its restorative properties on TV shows like Dr. Oz. Calming nerves and assisting in a peaceful sleep, we might all benefit from learning how to grow a Bacopa plant (Sutera cordata). In addition to the calming effects, growing Bacopa plants adds perky color and finely textured foliage to the garden bed or nearby hanging basket. Let’s find out how to grow a Bacopa plant.
Bacopa Plant Info
Growing Bacopa trailing annual is simple, with many uses in the sunny to part shade garden. Bacopa plant info indicates that the small plant reaches no more than 6-12 inches in maturity. The low-growing specimen spreads vigorously to cascade over a wall or quickly cover bare spots under taller plants.
The happy Bacopa trailing annual is often covered with tiny flowers from June through October. Flowers are in shades of white, pink, lavender, blue and even coral red. The cultivar ‘Giant Snowflake’ has larger, white flowers and reaches just 3 to 6 inches in height and is one of the original varieties of Bacopa trailing annual. When growing Bacopa plants, experiment with different varieties of the hybrids. ‘Cabana’ is a newer white-flowering form of the plant that is more compact. ‘Olympic Gold’ also has white flowers with variegated leaves of gold and green that requires a more shaded spot. Bacopa plant info says white flowering varieties offer the most long-lasting bloom. Also, when shopping for Bacopa plants, look for the name Sutera on plant labels.
How Do You Care for Bacopa?
Growing Bacopa plants is most easily done in containers. This allows for the consistent moisture necessary to avoid the interruption of flowering. Use Bacopa trailing annual as a filler plant in mixed containers and hanging baskets. Grow Bacopa trailing annual in a full sun to part shade location. Bacopa plant info on how to grow a Bacopa plant advises growing the plant where afternoon shade is available in the hottest areas.
The tender annual is sometimes bothered by aphids, which can be dispersed with a strong blast of water from the sprayer. If aphids persist on new growth, treat them with a soapy spray or insecticidal soap. Neem oil is also beneficial. Now that you’ve learned the basics of how do you care for Bacopa and the many uses for the diminutive, spreading plant, add some to your garden this year.
Bacopa Plant Info
Growing Bacopa trailing annual is simple, with many uses in the sunny to part shade garden. Bacopa plant info indicates that the small plant reaches no more than 6-12 inches in maturity. The low-growing specimen spreads vigorously to cascade over a wall or quickly cover bare spots under taller plants.
The happy Bacopa trailing annual is often covered with tiny flowers from June through October. Flowers are in shades of white, pink, lavender, blue and even coral red. The cultivar ‘Giant Snowflake’ has larger, white flowers and reaches just 3 to 6 inches in height and is one of the original varieties of Bacopa trailing annual. When growing Bacopa plants, experiment with different varieties of the hybrids. ‘Cabana’ is a newer white-flowering form of the plant that is more compact. ‘Olympic Gold’ also has white flowers with variegated leaves of gold and green that requires a more shaded spot. Bacopa plant info says white flowering varieties offer the most long-lasting bloom. Also, when shopping for Bacopa plants, look for the name Sutera on plant labels.
How Do You Care for Bacopa?
Growing Bacopa plants is most easily done in containers. This allows for the consistent moisture necessary to avoid the interruption of flowering. Use Bacopa trailing annual as a filler plant in mixed containers and hanging baskets. Grow Bacopa trailing annual in a full sun to part shade location. Bacopa plant info on how to grow a Bacopa plant advises growing the plant where afternoon shade is available in the hottest areas.
The tender annual is sometimes bothered by aphids, which can be dispersed with a strong blast of water from the sprayer. If aphids persist on new growth, treat them with a soapy spray or insecticidal soap. Neem oil is also beneficial. Now that you’ve learned the basics of how do you care for Bacopa and the many uses for the diminutive, spreading plant, add some to your garden this year.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月25日
Brahmi is a plant that goes by many names. Its scientific name is Bacopa monnieri, and while it’s native to India, it has since spread to tropical regions all over the world. It is an edible plant that is frequently used for medicinal purposes. Keep reading to learn more about brahmi plant care and how to grow brahmi herbs.
Brahmi Plant Information
What is brahmi? It’s a low growing, creeping herb that reaches a maximum of about 6 inches in height and grows outward in a sprawling pattern. If left to its own devices, it can spread rapidly. Brahmi plant care is pretty easy and forgiving.
It prefers part to full sun and will grow in a wide range of soils. As long as it gets sufficient water, it can thrive in rock, sand and mud. It will even grow directly in water features, forming its foliage as floating mats. Feed the plants moderately with slow release fertilizer. They’re not heavy feeders, but they do appreciate the nutrients. If you’re growing brahmi in water, however, don’t use any fertilizer, as this will just encourage algae growth.
What are the Benefits of Brahmi?
Brahmi has soft, hairy stems and bright green, oval, succulent leaves. Its flowers are small and white with yellow centers. It is completely edible and is very popular as a medicine when it is steeped into a tea, mixed with oil or worked into a paste. So what are the benefits of brahmi? There is a huge list of ailments brahmi can be used to treat, from respiratory and stomach problems to memory loss to leprosy. It’s especially common in traditional Indian medicine. It’s also good for promoting general good health. Disclaimer: The contents of this article is for educational and gardening purposes only. Before using ANY herb or plant for medicinal purposes, please consult a physician or a medical herbalist for advice.
Brahmi Plant Information
What is brahmi? It’s a low growing, creeping herb that reaches a maximum of about 6 inches in height and grows outward in a sprawling pattern. If left to its own devices, it can spread rapidly. Brahmi plant care is pretty easy and forgiving.
It prefers part to full sun and will grow in a wide range of soils. As long as it gets sufficient water, it can thrive in rock, sand and mud. It will even grow directly in water features, forming its foliage as floating mats. Feed the plants moderately with slow release fertilizer. They’re not heavy feeders, but they do appreciate the nutrients. If you’re growing brahmi in water, however, don’t use any fertilizer, as this will just encourage algae growth.
What are the Benefits of Brahmi?
Brahmi has soft, hairy stems and bright green, oval, succulent leaves. Its flowers are small and white with yellow centers. It is completely edible and is very popular as a medicine when it is steeped into a tea, mixed with oil or worked into a paste. So what are the benefits of brahmi? There is a huge list of ailments brahmi can be used to treat, from respiratory and stomach problems to memory loss to leprosy. It’s especially common in traditional Indian medicine. It’s also good for promoting general good health. Disclaimer: The contents of this article is for educational and gardening purposes only. Before using ANY herb or plant for medicinal purposes, please consult a physician or a medical herbalist for advice.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月25日
One of the strongest flavors available in nature is anise. Anise plant (Pimpinella anisum) is a Southern European and Mediterranean herb with a flavor reminiscent of licorice. The plant is attractive with lacy leaves and a profusion of white flowers and grows as a bushy ornamental herb. Growing anise in the herb garden provides a ready source of the seed for curries, baking and flavoring liqueurs.
What is Anise Plant?
Anise flowers are born in umbels like Queen Anne’s Lace. The seeds are the useful part of the plant and resemble caraway or carrot seeds. It’s easy to grow anise and the feathery leaves are borne on slightly purple stems. The plant, which grows just under 2 feet tall, requires a warm growing season of at least 120 days. Anise is widely cultivated in many European and Asian countries but has not been an important crop in the United States. Due to its delightful appearance and fragrance, there are now many gardeners who grow anise.
Growing Anise
Anise requires a fairly alkaline soil pH of 6.3 to 7.0. Anise plants need full sun and well-drained soil. Directly sow the seed into a prepared seed bed that is free of weeds, roots and other debris. Growing anise needs regular water until the plants are established and then can tolerate periods of drought. Anise plant may be harvested in August to September when the flowers go to seed. Save the seed heads in a paper bag until they dry enough for the seed to fall out of the old flowers. Keep the seeds in a cool dark location until spring sowing.
How to Plant Anise
Growing anise is an easy gardening project and can provide seed for a multitude of uses. Anise seeds are small and are easier to sow with a seed syringe for indoor planting or mixed in sand for outside planting. Temperature of the soil is an important consideration for how to plant anise. Soil should be workable and 60 F./15 C. for best germination. Space the seeds in rows 2 to 3 feet apart at a rate of 12 seeds per foot. Plant the seed ½ inch deep in well cultivated soils. Water the plants after emergence twice a week until they are 6 to 8 inches high and then gradually reduce irrigation. Apply a nitrogen fertilizer prior to flowering in June to July.
Anise Uses
Anise is an herb with culinary and medicinal properties. It is a digestive aid and to help respiratory illness. Its numerous uses in food and beverage span a wide range of international cuisines. The eastern European communities have used it widely in liqueurs such as Anisette. The seeds, once crushed, yield an aromatic oil that is used in soaps, perfume and potpourris. Dry the seeds for future use in cooking and store them in a glass container with a tightly sealed lid. The many uses of the herb provide an excellent incentive to grow anise plant.
What is Anise Plant?
Anise flowers are born in umbels like Queen Anne’s Lace. The seeds are the useful part of the plant and resemble caraway or carrot seeds. It’s easy to grow anise and the feathery leaves are borne on slightly purple stems. The plant, which grows just under 2 feet tall, requires a warm growing season of at least 120 days. Anise is widely cultivated in many European and Asian countries but has not been an important crop in the United States. Due to its delightful appearance and fragrance, there are now many gardeners who grow anise.
Growing Anise
Anise requires a fairly alkaline soil pH of 6.3 to 7.0. Anise plants need full sun and well-drained soil. Directly sow the seed into a prepared seed bed that is free of weeds, roots and other debris. Growing anise needs regular water until the plants are established and then can tolerate periods of drought. Anise plant may be harvested in August to September when the flowers go to seed. Save the seed heads in a paper bag until they dry enough for the seed to fall out of the old flowers. Keep the seeds in a cool dark location until spring sowing.
How to Plant Anise
Growing anise is an easy gardening project and can provide seed for a multitude of uses. Anise seeds are small and are easier to sow with a seed syringe for indoor planting or mixed in sand for outside planting. Temperature of the soil is an important consideration for how to plant anise. Soil should be workable and 60 F./15 C. for best germination. Space the seeds in rows 2 to 3 feet apart at a rate of 12 seeds per foot. Plant the seed ½ inch deep in well cultivated soils. Water the plants after emergence twice a week until they are 6 to 8 inches high and then gradually reduce irrigation. Apply a nitrogen fertilizer prior to flowering in June to July.
Anise Uses
Anise is an herb with culinary and medicinal properties. It is a digestive aid and to help respiratory illness. Its numerous uses in food and beverage span a wide range of international cuisines. The eastern European communities have used it widely in liqueurs such as Anisette. The seeds, once crushed, yield an aromatic oil that is used in soaps, perfume and potpourris. Dry the seeds for future use in cooking and store them in a glass container with a tightly sealed lid. The many uses of the herb provide an excellent incentive to grow anise plant.
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