文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月24日
Whether in the garden or containers, lavender is a fabulous plant to have on hand. You can cook with it, dry it into sachets, or just leave it where it grows to perfume the air. But what do you do when it starts to fail? Keep reading to learn about lavender plant care and how to deal with drooping lavender plants.
Lavender Flowers Drooping
Lavender flowers drooping is a very common problem, and if often comes down to water. Knowing how often to water lavender is usually all it takes to get it fighting fit. Lavender is a Mediterranean plant that prefers sandy, low quality soil that drains very quickly. If you’ve planted it in dense soil or are watering it daily, this might be the cause of your lavender flowers drooping. The key to lavender plant care is, in a way, keeping yourself from caring too much and killing it with kindness. If you’ve planted it in well fertilized, rich soil, move it to somewhere less forgiving, like a rocky slope that receives full sun. The lavender will thank you. If you’ve been watering every day, stop it. Young lavender does need considerably more water than usual to get established, but too much will eventually kill it. Always check the soil around the plant before watering – if it’s totally dry, give it a soak. If it’s still wet, leave it alone. Don’t water from above, as extra moisture on the leaves can spread disease.
Fixing Droopy Lavender Plants
While lavender flowers drooping might be the sign of an unhappy plant, it’s not always the case. On hot days, lavender will droop to conserve water, even if it’s not thirsty. It’s just a natural strategy to stay hydrated. If you notice your plant drooping but don’t think it’s over watered or in the wrong kind of soil, check on it later when the day is cooler. It may very well have perked up on its own.
Lavender Flowers Drooping
Lavender flowers drooping is a very common problem, and if often comes down to water. Knowing how often to water lavender is usually all it takes to get it fighting fit. Lavender is a Mediterranean plant that prefers sandy, low quality soil that drains very quickly. If you’ve planted it in dense soil or are watering it daily, this might be the cause of your lavender flowers drooping. The key to lavender plant care is, in a way, keeping yourself from caring too much and killing it with kindness. If you’ve planted it in well fertilized, rich soil, move it to somewhere less forgiving, like a rocky slope that receives full sun. The lavender will thank you. If you’ve been watering every day, stop it. Young lavender does need considerably more water than usual to get established, but too much will eventually kill it. Always check the soil around the plant before watering – if it’s totally dry, give it a soak. If it’s still wet, leave it alone. Don’t water from above, as extra moisture on the leaves can spread disease.
Fixing Droopy Lavender Plants
While lavender flowers drooping might be the sign of an unhappy plant, it’s not always the case. On hot days, lavender will droop to conserve water, even if it’s not thirsty. It’s just a natural strategy to stay hydrated. If you notice your plant drooping but don’t think it’s over watered or in the wrong kind of soil, check on it later when the day is cooler. It may very well have perked up on its own.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月24日
Lavender is a fantastic plant to have around – it looks good, it smells amazing, and it can be harvested for use in cooking and making sachets. It’s also extremely easy to care for, as long as you know how to do it. Keep reading to learn more about when and how to fertilize lavender plants.
Fertilizing Lavender Plants
Lavender is a tricky plant to grow, though its needs are actually very simple. But time and again gardeners find theirs dying on them. Why is this? More often than not, the plants have actually been cared for to death. Lavender needs very little water to survive, and it’s frequently drowned by well-intentioned gardeners who think they’re doing it a favor. And the very same thing goes for fertilizer.
How and When to Feed Lavender
Lavender plants really prefer nutrient poor soil. Fertilizing lavender too heavily may cause it to grow excess foliage and never flower (particular if the fertilizer for lavender is rich in nitrogen) or it may flat out kill it. This isn’t to say that lavender plant feeding is completely out of the question – it’s all just a matter of doing it right. The best (and only) time for fertilizing lavender is in the springtime at the start of the growing season. The easiest and best thing to do is to put down an inch of good compost around the plant. This should provide plenty of nutrients for the year to come.
Alternatively, you can feed your lavender with a small amount of slow release fertilizer. Once you’ve done this, leave it alone. Fertilizing lavender too much can hurt it. Don’t fertilize in the fall, either. This will make the plant produce tender new growth that will only get damaged or killed in the winter. With lavender plant feeding, a little really does go a long way.
Fertilizing Lavender Plants
Lavender is a tricky plant to grow, though its needs are actually very simple. But time and again gardeners find theirs dying on them. Why is this? More often than not, the plants have actually been cared for to death. Lavender needs very little water to survive, and it’s frequently drowned by well-intentioned gardeners who think they’re doing it a favor. And the very same thing goes for fertilizer.
How and When to Feed Lavender
Lavender plants really prefer nutrient poor soil. Fertilizing lavender too heavily may cause it to grow excess foliage and never flower (particular if the fertilizer for lavender is rich in nitrogen) or it may flat out kill it. This isn’t to say that lavender plant feeding is completely out of the question – it’s all just a matter of doing it right. The best (and only) time for fertilizing lavender is in the springtime at the start of the growing season. The easiest and best thing to do is to put down an inch of good compost around the plant. This should provide plenty of nutrients for the year to come.
Alternatively, you can feed your lavender with a small amount of slow release fertilizer. Once you’ve done this, leave it alone. Fertilizing lavender too much can hurt it. Don’t fertilize in the fall, either. This will make the plant produce tender new growth that will only get damaged or killed in the winter. With lavender plant feeding, a little really does go a long way.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月24日
When it comes to French vs. English lavender there are some important differences. Not every lavender plant is the same, although they are all great to grow in the garden or as houseplants. Know the differences between these popular types to choose the best one for your conditions and needs.
Are English and French Lavender Different?
They are related, but different types of lavender. French lavender is Lavendula dentata and it is not actually that commonly cultivated, although we often think of France when picturing fields of lavender. English lavender is Lavendula angustifolia. This variety is much more commonly cultivated and is typical in gardens and containers. Here are some other important differences:
Hardiness. A big difference between French and English lavender is that the latter is much hardier. French lavender is only hardy through about zone 8 and won’t tolerate cold winters. Size. French lavender is large and will grow from about two to three feet (.5 to 1 meter) tall and wide, while English lavender stays much smaller and more compact, although it may grow up to two feet. Bloom time. The flowers on these plants are similar in size, but they last much longer on French lavender. This variety has one of the longest bloom times, starting in spring and continuing to produce flowers throughout the summer. Scent. If you’re looking for the characteristic lavender smell, choose English lavender. It produces the strong scent that permeates the air, while French lavender has a much lighter scent, which while nice, is more reminiscent of rosemary.
Other Types of Lavender
French and English are just two of many varieties of this popular plant. You’ll also see Spanish lavender, which like French lavender, has a softer scent and is used more for landscaping than for producing the scented oil. Lavandin is a hybrid cultivar that was developed to produce even more oil than English lavender, so it has a very potent aroma. French and English lavender varieties are both great plants, but they are not the same. Along with the other types of lavender, you have plenty of options to choose the right variety for your home or garden.
Are English and French Lavender Different?
They are related, but different types of lavender. French lavender is Lavendula dentata and it is not actually that commonly cultivated, although we often think of France when picturing fields of lavender. English lavender is Lavendula angustifolia. This variety is much more commonly cultivated and is typical in gardens and containers. Here are some other important differences:
Hardiness. A big difference between French and English lavender is that the latter is much hardier. French lavender is only hardy through about zone 8 and won’t tolerate cold winters. Size. French lavender is large and will grow from about two to three feet (.5 to 1 meter) tall and wide, while English lavender stays much smaller and more compact, although it may grow up to two feet. Bloom time. The flowers on these plants are similar in size, but they last much longer on French lavender. This variety has one of the longest bloom times, starting in spring and continuing to produce flowers throughout the summer. Scent. If you’re looking for the characteristic lavender smell, choose English lavender. It produces the strong scent that permeates the air, while French lavender has a much lighter scent, which while nice, is more reminiscent of rosemary.
Other Types of Lavender
French and English are just two of many varieties of this popular plant. You’ll also see Spanish lavender, which like French lavender, has a softer scent and is used more for landscaping than for producing the scented oil. Lavandin is a hybrid cultivar that was developed to produce even more oil than English lavender, so it has a very potent aroma. French and English lavender varieties are both great plants, but they are not the same. Along with the other types of lavender, you have plenty of options to choose the right variety for your home or garden.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月24日
Lavender (Lavandula angustifolia) is a commonly grown herb plant popular for its fragrant aroma. This easy-care plant enjoys hot, dry conditions, making it suitable for use in a variety of landscape settings and an excellent candidate for areas prone to drought. Keep reading to learn more about lavender plant care.
How to Grow Lavender in the Garden
As lavender seeds are slow to germinate, purchasing seedling plants is the most reliable way to grow this plant. Growing lavender plants is an easy endeavor provided you give them what they need. Although lavender can tolerate a variety of growing conditions, this plant thrives best under warm, sunny conditions in well-drained soil. In addition, an alkaline soil rich in organic matter can encourage higher plant oil production, enhancing the fragrance in lavender plants. As lavender is native to arid regions, the plant will not tolerate moist or overly wet conditions; therefore, it’s important to consider location when growing lavender plants. They should be located in areas with adequate drainage and spaced far enough apart to ensure good air circulation. This will help reduce the chance of developing root rot.
Lavender Plant Care
Once established, lavender plants require little care or maintenance. While they should be watered regularly early on, established plants need little water, as they are extremely drought tolerant. Regular pruning not only keeps lavender plants neat looking in appearance, but also helps to encourage new growth. Low-growing varieties can be cut back to the new growth while larger types can be pruned to about a third of their overall height. Generally, lavender plants take up to a year or more before they are ready for harvesting. However, once they are ready, it’s best to harvest the plants early in the day, picking flower spikes that haven’t fully opened yet. Bundle the plants up and hang upside down in a dry, dark area for about one to two weeks.
How to Grow Lavender Indoors
Growing lavender plants indoors is no different from out in the garden. However, when growing lavender inside, make sure that the plants receive plenty of light and warm temperatures. Water only when the plants are significantly dry and do not fertilize. We hope that after reading these growing tips, lavender will make it into your garden. Once you know how to grow lavender, you can enjoy these fragrant plants for years to come.
How to Grow Lavender in the Garden
As lavender seeds are slow to germinate, purchasing seedling plants is the most reliable way to grow this plant. Growing lavender plants is an easy endeavor provided you give them what they need. Although lavender can tolerate a variety of growing conditions, this plant thrives best under warm, sunny conditions in well-drained soil. In addition, an alkaline soil rich in organic matter can encourage higher plant oil production, enhancing the fragrance in lavender plants. As lavender is native to arid regions, the plant will not tolerate moist or overly wet conditions; therefore, it’s important to consider location when growing lavender plants. They should be located in areas with adequate drainage and spaced far enough apart to ensure good air circulation. This will help reduce the chance of developing root rot.
Lavender Plant Care
Once established, lavender plants require little care or maintenance. While they should be watered regularly early on, established plants need little water, as they are extremely drought tolerant. Regular pruning not only keeps lavender plants neat looking in appearance, but also helps to encourage new growth. Low-growing varieties can be cut back to the new growth while larger types can be pruned to about a third of their overall height. Generally, lavender plants take up to a year or more before they are ready for harvesting. However, once they are ready, it’s best to harvest the plants early in the day, picking flower spikes that haven’t fully opened yet. Bundle the plants up and hang upside down in a dry, dark area for about one to two weeks.
How to Grow Lavender Indoors
Growing lavender plants indoors is no different from out in the garden. However, when growing lavender inside, make sure that the plants receive plenty of light and warm temperatures. Water only when the plants are significantly dry and do not fertilize. We hope that after reading these growing tips, lavender will make it into your garden. Once you know how to grow lavender, you can enjoy these fragrant plants for years to come.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月24日
Horseradish is a plant that can grow anywhere once started. This trait makes it both an easy to grow herb and an unwanted invasive that leaves gardeners wondering how to eliminate horseradish plants. When it comes to trying to get rid of horseradish, most people have difficulty doing so because of its hardiness. Keep reading to learn more about how to kill horseradish plants or to simply control them.
Tips for Controlling Horseradish
If you have had difficulty controlling horseradish, there are a few things to remember. First of all, horseradish is one of those plants that grows from cultivars. This means that the smallest piece of root can yield plants. Controlling horseradish is difficult because of this hardy trait.
Basically, controlling horseradish is best done by digging up as much of the plant as possible, including the roots, every year. By doing this, you can eliminate some of the plants, and make a good attempt at keeping these plants in the area you want it located instead of allowing it to spread. One way to keep your horseradish under control is to prepare the area before you even plant it. Sometimes using a large barrel or bucket underground to plant the roots in will help to keep the horseradish reined into one area of your yard or garden. Controlling horseradish is easier than killing it, so preparation before planting is probably the best control chance you will get.
How to Kill Horseradish Plants
When you are thinking about killing horseradish plants, your best bet is to dig them up as much as possible first. There is no chemical or natural agent that will kill the plant completely if it is growing wildly. Killing horseradish plants isn’t difficult, but it is tedious because you have to keep up on it. If you are trying to eliminate horseradish plants, you should realize that digging up the roots is the best way to eliminate as much as possible. Once you do that, you can wait and see what grows and use a chemical or natural weed killing agent on the area to kill off the rest. This process will need to be repeated until the plant does not come back. Instead of killing horseradish, consider camouflaging it. Depending on how large a patch of plants you have, eliminating horseradish is best done by just mowing over the area and planting some grass seed among the mowed plants. This way, the plant isn’t eliminated, but it is controlled and it should stop spreading if you keep it mowed.
Eliminating horseradish can be done, but be aware that if you want to get rid of horseradish, you’ll probably have to do a lot of work. This includes digging, chopping, cutting and spraying. One final note on how to kill horseradish plants: do not try using a rototiller to eliminate horseradish plants. Rototilling doesn’t work because it just makes a whole bunch of root pieces in the ground; each makes a new plant and makes it easier for the horseradish to spread.
Tips for Controlling Horseradish
If you have had difficulty controlling horseradish, there are a few things to remember. First of all, horseradish is one of those plants that grows from cultivars. This means that the smallest piece of root can yield plants. Controlling horseradish is difficult because of this hardy trait.
Basically, controlling horseradish is best done by digging up as much of the plant as possible, including the roots, every year. By doing this, you can eliminate some of the plants, and make a good attempt at keeping these plants in the area you want it located instead of allowing it to spread. One way to keep your horseradish under control is to prepare the area before you even plant it. Sometimes using a large barrel or bucket underground to plant the roots in will help to keep the horseradish reined into one area of your yard or garden. Controlling horseradish is easier than killing it, so preparation before planting is probably the best control chance you will get.
How to Kill Horseradish Plants
When you are thinking about killing horseradish plants, your best bet is to dig them up as much as possible first. There is no chemical or natural agent that will kill the plant completely if it is growing wildly. Killing horseradish plants isn’t difficult, but it is tedious because you have to keep up on it. If you are trying to eliminate horseradish plants, you should realize that digging up the roots is the best way to eliminate as much as possible. Once you do that, you can wait and see what grows and use a chemical or natural weed killing agent on the area to kill off the rest. This process will need to be repeated until the plant does not come back. Instead of killing horseradish, consider camouflaging it. Depending on how large a patch of plants you have, eliminating horseradish is best done by just mowing over the area and planting some grass seed among the mowed plants. This way, the plant isn’t eliminated, but it is controlled and it should stop spreading if you keep it mowed.
Eliminating horseradish can be done, but be aware that if you want to get rid of horseradish, you’ll probably have to do a lot of work. This includes digging, chopping, cutting and spraying. One final note on how to kill horseradish plants: do not try using a rototiller to eliminate horseradish plants. Rototilling doesn’t work because it just makes a whole bunch of root pieces in the ground; each makes a new plant and makes it easier for the horseradish to spread.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月24日
A pungent perennial, horseradish (Armoracia rusticana) is a member of the Cruciferae family (Brassicaceae). A very hardy plant, horseradish flourishes in USDA zones 4-8. It is used primarily for its roots, which are grated and used as a condiment. Like its cousins, broccoli and radish, the horseradish plant has flowers; the question is, are horseradish flowers edible? If not, should you cut horseradish flowers?
Are Horseradish Flowers Edible?
As mentioned, horseradish is grown primarily for its peppery root. A cold hardy crop, horseradish thrives in either sun or partial shade and is propagated from root cuttings. Horseradish establishes rapidly and even after harvesting the roots, will more than likely pop up in the garden whether you want it to or not. For this reason, many people plant horseradish in pots to retard the possibility of spreading.
If you plant horseradish in the garden, choose a sunny to partially sunny site and allow 18-20 inches between plantings. Plant the root cuttings as soon as the ground is thawed enough to dig in the spring. Plant the cuttings twice as deep as the piece of root since the plants develop a very long taproot. This, of course, is why they plants tend to return and can become invasive. Although you are digging up the root to harvest, it’s very difficult to get every bit. The remaining root pieces easily propagate and, voila, you have horseradish growing again.
As the plants grow, you can pick young leaves to add to salads for a peppery kick. The older leaves, while edible, are tough and unpalatable. So how about flowers on horseradish? On some crops, the flowers are pinched or cut back to encourage leafy growth, especially on herbaceous plants. On other plants, flowers are encouraged because the end goal is for fruit. Horseradish falls into neither of these categories. While you may see a horseradish plant flowering, the blooms are neither here nor there. As the plant grows, small leaves become large, up to 2 feet long, and coarse, and a flower stalk pokes out from atop the plant. From the stalks, small, insignificant, white flowers are borne. In the summer, you may or may not see the horseradish plant flowering. Flowers on horseradish are not of any great importance since they produce little, if any, viable seed. Some years the plant may not bloom at all. In either case, while the aromatic young leaves are used in cooking, the flowers are not.
Because the plant is being grown for its root, there is no need to cut horseradish flowers, unless, of course, you wish to use them for indoor flower arrangements – although the flowers are not showy. If your horseradish plant has flowers, it may even be of some benefit to leave the blossoms alone. They may attract pollinators to the rest of the vegetable garden, which is certainly not a bad thing.
Are Horseradish Flowers Edible?
As mentioned, horseradish is grown primarily for its peppery root. A cold hardy crop, horseradish thrives in either sun or partial shade and is propagated from root cuttings. Horseradish establishes rapidly and even after harvesting the roots, will more than likely pop up in the garden whether you want it to or not. For this reason, many people plant horseradish in pots to retard the possibility of spreading.
If you plant horseradish in the garden, choose a sunny to partially sunny site and allow 18-20 inches between plantings. Plant the root cuttings as soon as the ground is thawed enough to dig in the spring. Plant the cuttings twice as deep as the piece of root since the plants develop a very long taproot. This, of course, is why they plants tend to return and can become invasive. Although you are digging up the root to harvest, it’s very difficult to get every bit. The remaining root pieces easily propagate and, voila, you have horseradish growing again.
As the plants grow, you can pick young leaves to add to salads for a peppery kick. The older leaves, while edible, are tough and unpalatable. So how about flowers on horseradish? On some crops, the flowers are pinched or cut back to encourage leafy growth, especially on herbaceous plants. On other plants, flowers are encouraged because the end goal is for fruit. Horseradish falls into neither of these categories. While you may see a horseradish plant flowering, the blooms are neither here nor there. As the plant grows, small leaves become large, up to 2 feet long, and coarse, and a flower stalk pokes out from atop the plant. From the stalks, small, insignificant, white flowers are borne. In the summer, you may or may not see the horseradish plant flowering. Flowers on horseradish are not of any great importance since they produce little, if any, viable seed. Some years the plant may not bloom at all. In either case, while the aromatic young leaves are used in cooking, the flowers are not.
Because the plant is being grown for its root, there is no need to cut horseradish flowers, unless, of course, you wish to use them for indoor flower arrangements – although the flowers are not showy. If your horseradish plant has flowers, it may even be of some benefit to leave the blossoms alone. They may attract pollinators to the rest of the vegetable garden, which is certainly not a bad thing.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月24日
Garlic is an easy to grow plant that is used for its bulb and its greens. Garlic scapes are the first tender green shoots on garlic which will become bulbils. They are edible when young and add a delicate garlic flavor to salads, soups and sauces. You can use them just as you would use chives. Most gardeners wouldn’t encourage growing garlic scapes but when they appear, remove them and use them for early spring flavor.
What is a Garlic Scape?
Garlic scapes are curly tendrils of greenery that come up from hard necked garlic plants. They terminate in something that looks like a bud. If you let the scape grow, it will flower with a wiry white-tipped cluster of tiny blooms. Each bloom will swell at the tip and produce seeds that bloat and turn brown. The protuberances become bulbils or tiny bulbs, which may be planted and will become garlic in three to four years. They can be removed without damaging the plant and eaten when young.
Growing Garlic Scapes
There’s nothing you need to do to grow garlic scapes other than to plant garlic. Their formation is a natural part of the garlic growth cycle and part of the plant’s reproductive process. Provide good care to the garlic and watch in spring for the curly slender stems. Cutting scapes of garlic is an early season activity in March or April. If you allow the scapes to develop, they become woody and lose their flavor.
Should I Cut Garlic Scapes?
Cutting scapes of garlic off the plant is an individual decision. Many gardeners believe that the removal of the scapes will increase the bulb production because the plant can put its energy into the underground growth. You can also leave them and allow them to mature so you can harvest the bulbils for future harvests. Consider the size of cloves you like to have when you ask yourself, “Should I cut garlic scapes?” If you’re trying to grow monstrous garlic, you will likely want to remove the scapes.
How to Harvest Garlic Scapes
The only tools necessary for cutting scapes of garlic are scissors and a container. Cut the scape at the base of the plant. You can eat the slim green leaves and the bud-like structure. You can also just pinch or bend off the stems. They should snap off easily. Rinse them and put them in a glass of water or in a zip top bag in the refrigerator where they will keep for several days.
Using Garlic Scapes
Once you’ve tried these little delicacies, you will never wonder, what is a garlic scape? The fresh, delicate garlic flavor will be imprinted on your culinary memory with recipes to follow. Use garlic scapes in soups, stews and sauces. Slice them into salads or sauté them as a quick addition to pasta. Use them to flavor foods like fish or go crazy and make them into a flavorful pesto. These flavorful shoots are too good to waste.
What is a Garlic Scape?
Garlic scapes are curly tendrils of greenery that come up from hard necked garlic plants. They terminate in something that looks like a bud. If you let the scape grow, it will flower with a wiry white-tipped cluster of tiny blooms. Each bloom will swell at the tip and produce seeds that bloat and turn brown. The protuberances become bulbils or tiny bulbs, which may be planted and will become garlic in three to four years. They can be removed without damaging the plant and eaten when young.
Growing Garlic Scapes
There’s nothing you need to do to grow garlic scapes other than to plant garlic. Their formation is a natural part of the garlic growth cycle and part of the plant’s reproductive process. Provide good care to the garlic and watch in spring for the curly slender stems. Cutting scapes of garlic is an early season activity in March or April. If you allow the scapes to develop, they become woody and lose their flavor.
Should I Cut Garlic Scapes?
Cutting scapes of garlic off the plant is an individual decision. Many gardeners believe that the removal of the scapes will increase the bulb production because the plant can put its energy into the underground growth. You can also leave them and allow them to mature so you can harvest the bulbils for future harvests. Consider the size of cloves you like to have when you ask yourself, “Should I cut garlic scapes?” If you’re trying to grow monstrous garlic, you will likely want to remove the scapes.
How to Harvest Garlic Scapes
The only tools necessary for cutting scapes of garlic are scissors and a container. Cut the scape at the base of the plant. You can eat the slim green leaves and the bud-like structure. You can also just pinch or bend off the stems. They should snap off easily. Rinse them and put them in a glass of water or in a zip top bag in the refrigerator where they will keep for several days.
Using Garlic Scapes
Once you’ve tried these little delicacies, you will never wonder, what is a garlic scape? The fresh, delicate garlic flavor will be imprinted on your culinary memory with recipes to follow. Use garlic scapes in soups, stews and sauces. Slice them into salads or sauté them as a quick addition to pasta. Use them to flavor foods like fish or go crazy and make them into a flavorful pesto. These flavorful shoots are too good to waste.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月24日
Most epicureans use garlic on an almost daily basis to enhance the flavor of our culinary creations. Another plant that can be used to impart a similar, though lighter, flavor of garlic is the elephant garlic. How do you grow elephant garlic and what are some of elephant garlic uses? Read on to learn more.
What is Elephant Garlic?
Elephant garlic (Allium ampeloprasum) looks like a giant garlic clove but in fact, is not a true garlic but more closely related to a leek. It is a hardy bulb with large blue-green leaves. This perennial herb boasts an outsized pink or purple flower stalk that appears in the spring or summer. Under the ground, a large bulb consisting of five to six large cloves surrounded by smaller bulblets grows. This allium plant attains a height of about 3 feet from bulb to the tip of the strap-like leaves and originates in Asia.
How to Grow Elephant Garlic
This herb is easy to grow and once established, requires little maintenance. Purchase large seed cloves from a supplier or try setting those found at the grocers. Elephant garlic bought at the grocers may not sprout, however, as they are often sprayed with a growth inhibitor to prevent sprouting. Look for heads that are firm with a dry, papery covering. With elephant garlic planting, most any soil will do, but for the largest bulbs begin with a well-draining soil medium. Dig down a foot into the soil and amend with a 1.5 gallon bucket of sand, granite dust, humus/peat moss mix per 2’x 2’to 3’x 3′ section and mix in well. Top dress with some well-aged manure and mulch around the plants with chopped leaves and/or sawdust to keep weeds at bay and also to nourish as the amendments decompose or break down. Elephant garlic prefers full sun and can be grown in temperate regions all the way into tropical zones. In cooler climates, plant in the fall or spring while in warmer regions the herb can be planted in spring, fall, or winter. Break up the bulb into cloves for propagation. Some cloves are much smaller and are called corms, which grow on the outside of the bulb. If you plant these corms, they will produce a non-blooming plant in the first year with a solid bulb or single large clove. In the second year, the clove will begin to separate into multiple cloves, so don’t ignore the corms. It may take two years, but eventually you will get a good head of elephant garlic.
Caring for and Harvesting Elephant Garlic
Once planted, elephant garlic care is pretty simple. The plant does not have to be divided or harvested each year, but rather can be left alone where it will spread into a clump of multiple flowering heads. These clumps can be left as ornamentals and as deterrents to pests such as aphids, but will eventually become over crowded, resulting in stunted growth. Water the elephant garlic when first planted and regularly in the spring with 1 inch of water per week. Water the plants in the morning so the soil dries by nightfall to discourage diseases. Stop watering when the garlic’s leaves start drying out, which is an indication it’s harvest time. Elephant garlic should be ready to pick when the leaves are bent over and dying back — about 90 days after planting. When half of the leaves have died back, loosen the soil around the bulb with a trowel. You can also top off the immature plant tops (scapes) when they are tender prior to blooming. This will direct more of the plant’s energy into creating large bulbs.Elephant Garlic Uses
Scapes can be pickled, fermented, stir fried, etc. and even frozen in a resealable bag, raw, for up to a year. The bulb itself can be used just as regular garlic, albeit with a milder flavor. The entire bulb can be roasted whole and used as a spread on bread. It can be sautéed, sliced and eaten raw, and minced. Drying the bulb out in a cool, dry basement for a few months will extend the life of the garlic and induce a fuller flavor. Hang the bulbs to dry and store for up to 10 months.
What is Elephant Garlic?
Elephant garlic (Allium ampeloprasum) looks like a giant garlic clove but in fact, is not a true garlic but more closely related to a leek. It is a hardy bulb with large blue-green leaves. This perennial herb boasts an outsized pink or purple flower stalk that appears in the spring or summer. Under the ground, a large bulb consisting of five to six large cloves surrounded by smaller bulblets grows. This allium plant attains a height of about 3 feet from bulb to the tip of the strap-like leaves and originates in Asia.
How to Grow Elephant Garlic
This herb is easy to grow and once established, requires little maintenance. Purchase large seed cloves from a supplier or try setting those found at the grocers. Elephant garlic bought at the grocers may not sprout, however, as they are often sprayed with a growth inhibitor to prevent sprouting. Look for heads that are firm with a dry, papery covering. With elephant garlic planting, most any soil will do, but for the largest bulbs begin with a well-draining soil medium. Dig down a foot into the soil and amend with a 1.5 gallon bucket of sand, granite dust, humus/peat moss mix per 2’x 2’to 3’x 3′ section and mix in well. Top dress with some well-aged manure and mulch around the plants with chopped leaves and/or sawdust to keep weeds at bay and also to nourish as the amendments decompose or break down. Elephant garlic prefers full sun and can be grown in temperate regions all the way into tropical zones. In cooler climates, plant in the fall or spring while in warmer regions the herb can be planted in spring, fall, or winter. Break up the bulb into cloves for propagation. Some cloves are much smaller and are called corms, which grow on the outside of the bulb. If you plant these corms, they will produce a non-blooming plant in the first year with a solid bulb or single large clove. In the second year, the clove will begin to separate into multiple cloves, so don’t ignore the corms. It may take two years, but eventually you will get a good head of elephant garlic.
Caring for and Harvesting Elephant Garlic
Once planted, elephant garlic care is pretty simple. The plant does not have to be divided or harvested each year, but rather can be left alone where it will spread into a clump of multiple flowering heads. These clumps can be left as ornamentals and as deterrents to pests such as aphids, but will eventually become over crowded, resulting in stunted growth. Water the elephant garlic when first planted and regularly in the spring with 1 inch of water per week. Water the plants in the morning so the soil dries by nightfall to discourage diseases. Stop watering when the garlic’s leaves start drying out, which is an indication it’s harvest time. Elephant garlic should be ready to pick when the leaves are bent over and dying back — about 90 days after planting. When half of the leaves have died back, loosen the soil around the bulb with a trowel. You can also top off the immature plant tops (scapes) when they are tender prior to blooming. This will direct more of the plant’s energy into creating large bulbs.Elephant Garlic Uses
Scapes can be pickled, fermented, stir fried, etc. and even frozen in a resealable bag, raw, for up to a year. The bulb itself can be used just as regular garlic, albeit with a milder flavor. The entire bulb can be roasted whole and used as a spread on bread. It can be sautéed, sliced and eaten raw, and minced. Drying the bulb out in a cool, dry basement for a few months will extend the life of the garlic and induce a fuller flavor. Hang the bulbs to dry and store for up to 10 months.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月24日
Companion planting is a modern term applied to an age old practice. American Indians certainly utilized companion planting when cultivating their vegetables. Among the myriad of companion plant options, planting garlic with tomatoes, as well as with other types of vegetables, holds a unique place.
Can You Plant Garlic Near Tomatoes?
Companion planting works by increasing plant diversity. Simply put, companion planting is alternating two or more types of veggies in a single row. This practice seeks to confound insects that tend to consume certain crops, leading them to move onto greener pastures, so to speak. This practice is also referred to as intercropping — that is combining plants that are desired by insects among those that are undesirable.
The American Indians commonly intercropped three specific crops — corn, pole beans, and squash — called the Three Sisters method. This mutually advantageous planting system allows the beans to make use of the corn stalks to climb up, provides the corn nitrogen through the beans and the squash provides living mulch. There are many common combinations for companion planting. Some of these involve other vegetables or often flowers and herbs that repel insect marauders or attract pollinators. The answer to the above question is of course, you can plant garlic near tomatoes, but is there a benefit to such a companion planting? Strong smelling and tasting plants like onions and garlic are known to repel specific insect species.
Garlic and Tomato Companion Planting
So what benefit is there to planting garlic with tomatoes? Garlic is said to repel aphids when companion planted with roses. When garlic is grown around fruit trees, it deters borers, and specifically protects peach trees from leaf curl and apples from apple scab. Garlic in the garden is also said to deter:
Codling moths
Japanese beetles
Root maggots
Snails
Carrot root fly
Growing tomato plants next to garlic repels spider mites known to ravage the tomato crop. It seems that while most of us love the pungent flavor and aroma of garlic, the insect world finds it less irresistible. Keep in mind, however, that not all plants in the garden coexist with garlic as readily as companion planting garlic with tomatoes. Veggies such as peas, beans, cabbage, and strawberries have abhorrence for garlic.
You cannot only plant tomato plants next to garlic as a natural insecticide, but you can make your own garlic spray too. To make a garlic insecticidal spray, simply crush four cloves of garlic and steep them in a liter of water for several days. Pour this brew into a spray bottle for use as an insecticide, provided you are one of the many of us who love the smell of garlic.
Can You Plant Garlic Near Tomatoes?
Companion planting works by increasing plant diversity. Simply put, companion planting is alternating two or more types of veggies in a single row. This practice seeks to confound insects that tend to consume certain crops, leading them to move onto greener pastures, so to speak. This practice is also referred to as intercropping — that is combining plants that are desired by insects among those that are undesirable.
The American Indians commonly intercropped three specific crops — corn, pole beans, and squash — called the Three Sisters method. This mutually advantageous planting system allows the beans to make use of the corn stalks to climb up, provides the corn nitrogen through the beans and the squash provides living mulch. There are many common combinations for companion planting. Some of these involve other vegetables or often flowers and herbs that repel insect marauders or attract pollinators. The answer to the above question is of course, you can plant garlic near tomatoes, but is there a benefit to such a companion planting? Strong smelling and tasting plants like onions and garlic are known to repel specific insect species.
Garlic and Tomato Companion Planting
So what benefit is there to planting garlic with tomatoes? Garlic is said to repel aphids when companion planted with roses. When garlic is grown around fruit trees, it deters borers, and specifically protects peach trees from leaf curl and apples from apple scab. Garlic in the garden is also said to deter:
Codling moths
Japanese beetles
Root maggots
Snails
Carrot root fly
Growing tomato plants next to garlic repels spider mites known to ravage the tomato crop. It seems that while most of us love the pungent flavor and aroma of garlic, the insect world finds it less irresistible. Keep in mind, however, that not all plants in the garden coexist with garlic as readily as companion planting garlic with tomatoes. Veggies such as peas, beans, cabbage, and strawberries have abhorrence for garlic.
You cannot only plant tomato plants next to garlic as a natural insecticide, but you can make your own garlic spray too. To make a garlic insecticidal spray, simply crush four cloves of garlic and steep them in a liter of water for several days. Pour this brew into a spray bottle for use as an insecticide, provided you are one of the many of us who love the smell of garlic.
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1
文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月24日
Growing your own food is an incredibly rewarding experience, but it can also be frustrating since plant diseases and pests seem to be everywhere. This fall, why not try planting a few garlic cloves for next spring? If you’re trying your hand at growing garlic, keep an eye out for these common garlic problems.
Garlic Problems in the Garden
Garlic pests and disease can ruin your harvest, sometimes without your even knowing it until it’s too late. Others wait to emerge until later, causing problems when drying garlic. Either way, it’s a huge headache. The most common problems of garlic are caused by these common types of pathogens:
Fungal
By far, fungal problems are the most common garlic plant problems. You may get an early hint that something’s wrong, like early yellowing of foliage or white or gray, fluffy growth low on the stem. Unfortunately, there’s very little that can be done about fungal diseases in garlic. The best strategy is to practice a four year crop rotation. If you can’t do this, some fungal pathogens, like Botrytis, can be discouraged by wide spacing between plants. Drying garlic quickly will often prevent storage spoilage. When you must use the same garden space, minimize sources of fungal spores like dead leaves and spent plants by immediately removing and burning or bagging.
Nematodes
These tiny roundworms live in the soil and feed on roots and bulbs – they can destroy an entire crop in no time. If your plants are lacking in vigor or the leaves look bloated, nematodes may be the cause. Fungus and bacteria can further complicate diagnosis by moving into the nematodes’ feeding sites. Nematode control in the home garden isn’t easy, which is why most gardeners simply move to another garden spot for several years to starve the pests out. You’ll have to take care to ensure that no members of the onion or nightshade family pop up unexpectedly to give the nematodes something new to feed upon during that time.
Mites
Bulb mites sometimes bother garlic and onions, feeding on stem plates and roots. Infected plants will be much smaller than non-infected plants and may easily pull out of the soil because of their damaged root system. You may be able to see tiny cream colored mites with purple-brown legs clustered under garlic scales or at the base of roots.
Like with nematodes, the feeding of these mites allows other pathogens to invade the garlic bulb. You’ll also need to practice crop rotation to destroy these mites. They’re more flexible in their feeding than nematodes, so leaving your garden fallow or planting it out with a green, non-bulbing manure is recommended.
Garlic Problems in the Garden
Garlic pests and disease can ruin your harvest, sometimes without your even knowing it until it’s too late. Others wait to emerge until later, causing problems when drying garlic. Either way, it’s a huge headache. The most common problems of garlic are caused by these common types of pathogens:
Fungal
By far, fungal problems are the most common garlic plant problems. You may get an early hint that something’s wrong, like early yellowing of foliage or white or gray, fluffy growth low on the stem. Unfortunately, there’s very little that can be done about fungal diseases in garlic. The best strategy is to practice a four year crop rotation. If you can’t do this, some fungal pathogens, like Botrytis, can be discouraged by wide spacing between plants. Drying garlic quickly will often prevent storage spoilage. When you must use the same garden space, minimize sources of fungal spores like dead leaves and spent plants by immediately removing and burning or bagging.
Nematodes
These tiny roundworms live in the soil and feed on roots and bulbs – they can destroy an entire crop in no time. If your plants are lacking in vigor or the leaves look bloated, nematodes may be the cause. Fungus and bacteria can further complicate diagnosis by moving into the nematodes’ feeding sites. Nematode control in the home garden isn’t easy, which is why most gardeners simply move to another garden spot for several years to starve the pests out. You’ll have to take care to ensure that no members of the onion or nightshade family pop up unexpectedly to give the nematodes something new to feed upon during that time.
Mites
Bulb mites sometimes bother garlic and onions, feeding on stem plates and roots. Infected plants will be much smaller than non-infected plants and may easily pull out of the soil because of their damaged root system. You may be able to see tiny cream colored mites with purple-brown legs clustered under garlic scales or at the base of roots.
Like with nematodes, the feeding of these mites allows other pathogens to invade the garlic bulb. You’ll also need to practice crop rotation to destroy these mites. They’re more flexible in their feeding than nematodes, so leaving your garden fallow or planting it out with a green, non-bulbing manure is recommended.
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0
文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月24日
Garlic is a plant that requires some patience. It takes around 240 days to mature and it’s worth every second. In our household there really is no such thing as too much garlic! During the course of those 240 days, any number of pests, diseases and weather conditions can affect the garlic crop. One such crisis occurs when garlic is falling over. So, how to fix drooping garlic? Read on to learn more.
Help, My Garlic Fell Over!
First things first. I’m stating the obvious for most garlic growers, but here goes. When garlic is reaching maturation, the leaves begin to sag and brown. You end up with garlic plants drooping. If you do a quick math calculation to figure out how many months it has been since you planted the garlic, you may just realize that it’s nearing harvest time.
If you’re still in doubt and your memory is like mine (that is like a sieve), simply pull up one of droopy plants. If the bulb is large and ready, there’s no need to wait for full dieback, but leave the foliage on to dry naturally. This extends the garlic’s storage time. If the bulb is ready, then there’s no further need for troubleshooting floppy garlic. If, however, the garlic is falling over and readiness isn’t a factor, it’s time to look further for another possible cause.
Troubleshooting Floppy Garlic
How to fix drooping garlic depends on what other problems may be affecting the plants.
Moisture issues
Another reason for a drooping garlic plant is the most common reason for drooping in any plant — lack of water. Garlic requires consistently moist soil. Water the plants with 2 inches of water at least two times a week. Conversely, too much water can also affect the garlic, resulting in garlic that is falling over. Sometimes during heavy rainstorms, your garlic may get beaten down by the force of the storm. Don’t worry; it’s likely that the garlic will bounce back as it dries.
Nutrient problems
Yet another reason for drooping garlic plants may be that they are hungry. Lack of nitrogen, potassium, calcium, and magnesium will affect the growth of the plants. You can bring them around by doing a foliar feed or root zone feeding.
Insect pests
A more dire possibility may be that the garlic has become the host for onion root maggot or wireworms. Although garlic is a hardy veggie, it’s also prone to any number of insect infestations and fungal diseases, not to mention the above soil deficiencies.
Poor location
Perhaps you have planted your garlic in the wrong spot. Garlic needs at least six hours of sun in quick draining soil, rich with nutrients. Maybe you should try replanting the garlic. Prepare a new site for it if you think the wilt is caused by poor soil or if the plants are in too shady of an area.Amend the soil in a sunny area with equal parts of organic compost and well-draining soil. Dig 3 inches of this into the top 3 inches of soil in the new site. Dig the garlic up and transfer them in the morning of a cool day. Feed the garlic with a side dressing of nitrogen fertilizer. Dig this into the top inch of soil around each plant and water the plants immediately thereafter. Spread 2-3 inches of organic mulch around the plants to maintain warmth and moisture. Hopefully, all this will perk up the garlic and you will no longer need to say, “Help, my garlic fell over!”
Help, My Garlic Fell Over!
First things first. I’m stating the obvious for most garlic growers, but here goes. When garlic is reaching maturation, the leaves begin to sag and brown. You end up with garlic plants drooping. If you do a quick math calculation to figure out how many months it has been since you planted the garlic, you may just realize that it’s nearing harvest time.
If you’re still in doubt and your memory is like mine (that is like a sieve), simply pull up one of droopy plants. If the bulb is large and ready, there’s no need to wait for full dieback, but leave the foliage on to dry naturally. This extends the garlic’s storage time. If the bulb is ready, then there’s no further need for troubleshooting floppy garlic. If, however, the garlic is falling over and readiness isn’t a factor, it’s time to look further for another possible cause.
Troubleshooting Floppy Garlic
How to fix drooping garlic depends on what other problems may be affecting the plants.
Moisture issues
Another reason for a drooping garlic plant is the most common reason for drooping in any plant — lack of water. Garlic requires consistently moist soil. Water the plants with 2 inches of water at least two times a week. Conversely, too much water can also affect the garlic, resulting in garlic that is falling over. Sometimes during heavy rainstorms, your garlic may get beaten down by the force of the storm. Don’t worry; it’s likely that the garlic will bounce back as it dries.
Nutrient problems
Yet another reason for drooping garlic plants may be that they are hungry. Lack of nitrogen, potassium, calcium, and magnesium will affect the growth of the plants. You can bring them around by doing a foliar feed or root zone feeding.
Insect pests
A more dire possibility may be that the garlic has become the host for onion root maggot or wireworms. Although garlic is a hardy veggie, it’s also prone to any number of insect infestations and fungal diseases, not to mention the above soil deficiencies.
Poor location
Perhaps you have planted your garlic in the wrong spot. Garlic needs at least six hours of sun in quick draining soil, rich with nutrients. Maybe you should try replanting the garlic. Prepare a new site for it if you think the wilt is caused by poor soil or if the plants are in too shady of an area.Amend the soil in a sunny area with equal parts of organic compost and well-draining soil. Dig 3 inches of this into the top 3 inches of soil in the new site. Dig the garlic up and transfer them in the morning of a cool day. Feed the garlic with a side dressing of nitrogen fertilizer. Dig this into the top inch of soil around each plant and water the plants immediately thereafter. Spread 2-3 inches of organic mulch around the plants to maintain warmth and moisture. Hopefully, all this will perk up the garlic and you will no longer need to say, “Help, my garlic fell over!”
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月24日
Garlic is a component to most international cuisines. The herb’s popularity is a testament to its powers and intoxicating flavor. Add a little garlic to almost any dish and it perks up perceptibly. Garlic plant propagation is a noteworthy pursuit for those of us who need our garlic fix. Fresh bulbs, scapes and leaves add punch or delicate notes, depending upon your desires. Learn how to propagate garlic for a garden fresh supply of this Allium plant year around.
How to Propagate Garlic
You know you want it. Garlic with its pungent, zesty flavor and intense aromatic properties is actually quite easy to grow. Choice of variety that is suitable for your growing zone and soil is the first concern when propagating garlic bulbs. Softneck varieties grow best in warm climates, while the hardneck types are more suited to cooler climes. For the indecisive gardener, the Asian species can perform well in either climate.
Planting Garlic Cloves
Fall is the best time to plant most garlic. In climates with longer growing seasons, you can plant in late winter to early spring as soon as all danger of frost has passed. Garlic plant propagation requires deeply cultivated beds with plenty of compost added in to enrich the soil and enhance drainage. Dig trenches 1 inch deep and 2 inches wide. Keep trenches 6 inches apart and plant individual cloves at the same spacing. A single garlic bulb can yield up to eight plants. Separate the cloves, ensuring the papery covering is intact. Place each clove with the pointed top upright and cover the trenches with amended soil. Place several inches of mulch such as straw over the top of the beds.
Propagating Garlic Bulbs from Seed
Garlic seed is tiny and contained in the mature, dried flowers of the plants. Shake out the tiny black seeds and plant them immediately or save them in a cool, dry location until ready to plant. Growing the Allium from seed can be a frustrating process, as it takes much longer than plants established from cloves or bubils, and germination is capricious. Plant seeds indoors in fall to early winter after a storage period of four weeks in the refrigerator to encourage germination. Use a good seed starting mixture and plant seeds in flats with ¼ inch soil covering them. They need to be in an area of at least 65 degrees Fahrenheit (15 C.), covered to retain moisture and heat, and in a place with bright light after seedlings emerge. Harden off seedlings before transplanting to prepared beds in spring. Propagating garlic cloves will result in edible bulbs in a few months as opposed to seeded garlic, which produces bulbs the following year.
Planting Garlic Bulbils
Another method of garlic plant propagation is through the use of bulbils. Bulbils are located in the scape of hardneck varieties or on the false neck of softneck species. They are small undivided bulbs that can function like seed. The advantages to using bulbils are their ability to prevent soil borne disease and their faster production. Plant garlic bulbils 1 inch deep in fall, much the same way you would plant cloves. Care and cultivation is the same as bulb-planted garlic. Be careful not to weed out the tiny seedlings in spring, which will emerge looking much like common grass. Leave the plants in the ground until the tops turn brown and then harvest. The resulting bulbs will be smaller than those you get when propagating from cloves but equally delicious and you can get many more from bulbils.
How to Propagate Garlic
You know you want it. Garlic with its pungent, zesty flavor and intense aromatic properties is actually quite easy to grow. Choice of variety that is suitable for your growing zone and soil is the first concern when propagating garlic bulbs. Softneck varieties grow best in warm climates, while the hardneck types are more suited to cooler climes. For the indecisive gardener, the Asian species can perform well in either climate.
Planting Garlic Cloves
Fall is the best time to plant most garlic. In climates with longer growing seasons, you can plant in late winter to early spring as soon as all danger of frost has passed. Garlic plant propagation requires deeply cultivated beds with plenty of compost added in to enrich the soil and enhance drainage. Dig trenches 1 inch deep and 2 inches wide. Keep trenches 6 inches apart and plant individual cloves at the same spacing. A single garlic bulb can yield up to eight plants. Separate the cloves, ensuring the papery covering is intact. Place each clove with the pointed top upright and cover the trenches with amended soil. Place several inches of mulch such as straw over the top of the beds.
Propagating Garlic Bulbs from Seed
Garlic seed is tiny and contained in the mature, dried flowers of the plants. Shake out the tiny black seeds and plant them immediately or save them in a cool, dry location until ready to plant. Growing the Allium from seed can be a frustrating process, as it takes much longer than plants established from cloves or bubils, and germination is capricious. Plant seeds indoors in fall to early winter after a storage period of four weeks in the refrigerator to encourage germination. Use a good seed starting mixture and plant seeds in flats with ¼ inch soil covering them. They need to be in an area of at least 65 degrees Fahrenheit (15 C.), covered to retain moisture and heat, and in a place with bright light after seedlings emerge. Harden off seedlings before transplanting to prepared beds in spring. Propagating garlic cloves will result in edible bulbs in a few months as opposed to seeded garlic, which produces bulbs the following year.
Planting Garlic Bulbils
Another method of garlic plant propagation is through the use of bulbils. Bulbils are located in the scape of hardneck varieties or on the false neck of softneck species. They are small undivided bulbs that can function like seed. The advantages to using bulbils are their ability to prevent soil borne disease and their faster production. Plant garlic bulbils 1 inch deep in fall, much the same way you would plant cloves. Care and cultivation is the same as bulb-planted garlic. Be careful not to weed out the tiny seedlings in spring, which will emerge looking much like common grass. Leave the plants in the ground until the tops turn brown and then harvest. The resulting bulbs will be smaller than those you get when propagating from cloves but equally delicious and you can get many more from bulbils.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月24日
Garlic is one of the best companion crops out there. A natural pest and fungus deterrent with few incompatible neighbors, garlic is a good crop to plant scattered throughout your garden. Keep reading for information about the benefits of garlic and the key to successful garlic companion planting.
Garlic Companion Planting
Companion planting is a great low maintenance, low impact way to improve the health and flavor of your garden. Mainly because of the tendency of some plants to repel certain pests, there are pairings you can make when you plan your garden that just work. Garlic, in particular, is something of a wonder plant that improves the quality and health of almost anything it’s planted next to.
Garlic takes up very little space and can grow in most conditions, as long as it has full sun. As a result, it will thrive near plenty of other plants that may have more specific growing needs and can benefit from its proximity. Garlic is definitely one of the more pungent plants you can grow. Maybe it’s because of this that makes it’s so good at driving away pests. It’s a great deterrent to all kinds of pests including:
Fungus gnats
Codling moths
Spider mites
Cabbage loopers
Japanese beetles
Aphids
Ants
Snails
Onion flies
Garlic can even drive away rabbits and deer. If your garden suffers from any of these, try planting garlic next season. It grows best if planted late in the fall, however, so be careful not to miss its planting season. Garlic also naturally builds up sulfur, which is an effective fungicide for neighboring plants.
Plants That Grow Well With Garlic
Because of its many benefits, the list of plants that grow well with garlic is long. Companion plants for garlic include:
Fruit trees
Dill
Beets
Kale
Spinach
Potatoes
Carrots
Eggplants
Tomatoes
Peppers
Cabbage
Cauliflower
Broccoli
Kohlrabi
Flower plant companions for garlic include:
Roses
Geraniums
Marigolds
Nasturtiums
Companion plants for garlic that improve garlic’s overall growth include:
Rue, which will drive away maggots
Chamomile, which will improve its flavor
Yarrow
Summer savory
Though few, there are some plants that actually suffer when planted near garlic. Be sure to keep asparagus, peas, beans, sage, and parsley far away from it, as their growth can be stunted.
Companion planting is a great way to effectively grow plants without the use of any harsh chemicals. Plant companions for garlic and the like will help ensure a bountiful season. Simply intersperse your garlic throughout the garden to maximize its many benefits.
Garlic Companion Planting
Companion planting is a great low maintenance, low impact way to improve the health and flavor of your garden. Mainly because of the tendency of some plants to repel certain pests, there are pairings you can make when you plan your garden that just work. Garlic, in particular, is something of a wonder plant that improves the quality and health of almost anything it’s planted next to.
Garlic takes up very little space and can grow in most conditions, as long as it has full sun. As a result, it will thrive near plenty of other plants that may have more specific growing needs and can benefit from its proximity. Garlic is definitely one of the more pungent plants you can grow. Maybe it’s because of this that makes it’s so good at driving away pests. It’s a great deterrent to all kinds of pests including:
Fungus gnats
Codling moths
Spider mites
Cabbage loopers
Japanese beetles
Aphids
Ants
Snails
Onion flies
Garlic can even drive away rabbits and deer. If your garden suffers from any of these, try planting garlic next season. It grows best if planted late in the fall, however, so be careful not to miss its planting season. Garlic also naturally builds up sulfur, which is an effective fungicide for neighboring plants.
Plants That Grow Well With Garlic
Because of its many benefits, the list of plants that grow well with garlic is long. Companion plants for garlic include:
Fruit trees
Dill
Beets
Kale
Spinach
Potatoes
Carrots
Eggplants
Tomatoes
Peppers
Cabbage
Cauliflower
Broccoli
Kohlrabi
Flower plant companions for garlic include:
Roses
Geraniums
Marigolds
Nasturtiums
Companion plants for garlic that improve garlic’s overall growth include:
Rue, which will drive away maggots
Chamomile, which will improve its flavor
Yarrow
Summer savory
Though few, there are some plants that actually suffer when planted near garlic. Be sure to keep asparagus, peas, beans, sage, and parsley far away from it, as their growth can be stunted.
Companion planting is a great way to effectively grow plants without the use of any harsh chemicals. Plant companions for garlic and the like will help ensure a bountiful season. Simply intersperse your garlic throughout the garden to maximize its many benefits.
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1
文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月24日
Growing garlic (Allium sativum) in the garden is a great thing for your kitchen garden. Fresh garlic is a great seasoning. Let’s look at how to plant and grow garlic.
How to Grow Garlic
Growing garlic needs cool temperatures. Plant hard-neck garlic in the fall. Where there are cold winters, you can plant the garlic four to six weeks before the ground freezes. In milder winter areas, plant your garlic through winter but before February.
How to Plant Garlic
Follow these steps for growing garlic:
1. Unless your soil is naturally loose, add a lot of organic matter like compost or well-aged manure. 2. Separate the garlic bulb into individual cloves (just like you do when cooking but without peeling them). 3. Plant garlic cloves about an inch deep. The fatter end that was at the bottom of the bulb should be at the bottom of the hole. If your winters are colder, you can plant the pieces deeper. 4. Space your cloves 2 to 4 inches apart. Your rows can go 12 to 18 inches apart. If you want bigger garlic bulbs, you can try spacing cloves on a 6 inch by 12 inch grid.
5. While the plants are green and growing, fertilize them, but stop fertilizing after they begin to “bulb-up.” If you feed your garlic too late, your garlic won’t go dormant. 6. If there isn’t much rain in your area, water the garlic plants while they are growing just as you would any other green plant in your garden. 7. Your garlic is ready to harvest once your leaves turn brown. You can start checking when five or six green leaves are left. 8. Garlic needs to cure before you store it anywhere. Make sure to bundle eight to a dozen together by their leaves and hang them in a place to dry. Now that you know how to grow garlic, you can add this tasty herb to your kitchen garden.
How to Grow Garlic
Growing garlic needs cool temperatures. Plant hard-neck garlic in the fall. Where there are cold winters, you can plant the garlic four to six weeks before the ground freezes. In milder winter areas, plant your garlic through winter but before February.
How to Plant Garlic
Follow these steps for growing garlic:
1. Unless your soil is naturally loose, add a lot of organic matter like compost or well-aged manure. 2. Separate the garlic bulb into individual cloves (just like you do when cooking but without peeling them). 3. Plant garlic cloves about an inch deep. The fatter end that was at the bottom of the bulb should be at the bottom of the hole. If your winters are colder, you can plant the pieces deeper. 4. Space your cloves 2 to 4 inches apart. Your rows can go 12 to 18 inches apart. If you want bigger garlic bulbs, you can try spacing cloves on a 6 inch by 12 inch grid.
5. While the plants are green and growing, fertilize them, but stop fertilizing after they begin to “bulb-up.” If you feed your garlic too late, your garlic won’t go dormant. 6. If there isn’t much rain in your area, water the garlic plants while they are growing just as you would any other green plant in your garden. 7. Your garlic is ready to harvest once your leaves turn brown. You can start checking when five or six green leaves are left. 8. Garlic needs to cure before you store it anywhere. Make sure to bundle eight to a dozen together by their leaves and hang them in a place to dry. Now that you know how to grow garlic, you can add this tasty herb to your kitchen garden.
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Penney
2017年08月23日
So excited !! Moved bolder plant to larger pot and wow! It was happy, it started to get another set of bolders and then all of a sudden BAM! A beautiful flower !! Does anyone know the botanical name? Thnx
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Ueca：It is most likely in the genus Cheiridopsis but I can't ascertain the species.
