文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月25日
Yarrow, a perennial plant with feathery leaves that may be both a blessing and a curse in the home landscape, is often called yarrow weed. Ornamental or common yarrow is not native, but Western yarrow is indigenous to North America. Both have a spreading habit and extremely tolerant, hardy natures. It’s the spreading habit that is of most concern to homeowners. Once the plant is in your yard, it’s there to stay and it can be very difficult to remove yarrow.
What is Yarrow?
Yarrow is a low-growing plant that produces flower stalks four times its foliage height. The plant is recognized by the feathery almost fern-like green foliage. Each leaf is between 1 and 6 inches long. Each plant can produce several flower stalks covered by fine hairs. Flower heads are borne in corymbs or umbrella shaped clusters. Each flower has five colored flowers surrounding 10 to 20 pale yellow florets. The flowers are commonly white or soft pink but now come in yellows, coral and red.
Is Yarrow an Invasive Weed?
The answer to that question is complex but really boils down to opinion. Many people appreciate the easy care nature of yarrow and there are several new cultivars that are introducing new colors and sizes to the home landscape. Yarrow produces season-long umbrella shaped flower clusters that enliven the garden. There are also those who find the plant colonizing entire beds and even the grass. That would classify it as an invasive weed. In these gardener’s minds, yarrow control is paramount. Yarrow is an extremely adaptable plant. It can grow on any soil and in many conditions. It spreads from its rhizomes. When the plant is disturbed and small piece of rhizome can become a whole new plant. The clustered flowers on their 3-foot tall stocks produce thousands of seeds. The tiny seeds spread by wind and can remain viable in soil for up to nine years. The longevity of the seeds makes complete yarrow control impossible.
How to Remove Yarrow
Killing Yarrow without Chemicals
It’s much nicer to use the term yarrow control but the goal is the same — to eliminate yarrow plants. Digging and hoeing areas where yarrow has spread can remove some of the rhizomes but mechanical control is only effective if it goes down 12 inches and removes every speck of yarrow weed. Providing superior care to the lawn will make it thick and prevent some of the spread of the pest.
Chemical Yarrow Control
There are several chemicals available for killing yarrow. They must be used during the period of growth from spring to autumn. Dicamba, chlorsulfuron, clopyralid, MCPA, triclopyr and 2,4D are all listed as useful for yarrow control by the University of Illinois. Yarrow will require several treatments over the growing season, so it’s best to define the problem early and apply controls as soon as possible. Remember to follow all precautions listed by the chemical manufacturer.
What is Yarrow?
Yarrow is a low-growing plant that produces flower stalks four times its foliage height. The plant is recognized by the feathery almost fern-like green foliage. Each leaf is between 1 and 6 inches long. Each plant can produce several flower stalks covered by fine hairs. Flower heads are borne in corymbs or umbrella shaped clusters. Each flower has five colored flowers surrounding 10 to 20 pale yellow florets. The flowers are commonly white or soft pink but now come in yellows, coral and red.
Is Yarrow an Invasive Weed?
The answer to that question is complex but really boils down to opinion. Many people appreciate the easy care nature of yarrow and there are several new cultivars that are introducing new colors and sizes to the home landscape. Yarrow produces season-long umbrella shaped flower clusters that enliven the garden. There are also those who find the plant colonizing entire beds and even the grass. That would classify it as an invasive weed. In these gardener’s minds, yarrow control is paramount. Yarrow is an extremely adaptable plant. It can grow on any soil and in many conditions. It spreads from its rhizomes. When the plant is disturbed and small piece of rhizome can become a whole new plant. The clustered flowers on their 3-foot tall stocks produce thousands of seeds. The tiny seeds spread by wind and can remain viable in soil for up to nine years. The longevity of the seeds makes complete yarrow control impossible.
How to Remove Yarrow
Killing Yarrow without Chemicals
It’s much nicer to use the term yarrow control but the goal is the same — to eliminate yarrow plants. Digging and hoeing areas where yarrow has spread can remove some of the rhizomes but mechanical control is only effective if it goes down 12 inches and removes every speck of yarrow weed. Providing superior care to the lawn will make it thick and prevent some of the spread of the pest.
Chemical Yarrow Control
There are several chemicals available for killing yarrow. They must be used during the period of growth from spring to autumn. Dicamba, chlorsulfuron, clopyralid, MCPA, triclopyr and 2,4D are all listed as useful for yarrow control by the University of Illinois. Yarrow will require several treatments over the growing season, so it’s best to define the problem early and apply controls as soon as possible. Remember to follow all precautions listed by the chemical manufacturer.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月25日
While often sold as a flowering perennial, yarrow plant (Achillea millefolium) is actually an herb. Whether you decide to grow yarrow in your flower beds or in your herb garden, it’s still a lovely addition to your yard. Yarrow care is so easy that the plant is virtually care-free. Let’s take a look at how to plant yarrow and also tips for how to grow yarrow.
How to Plant Yarrow
Yarrow is most often propagated by division, so chances are you’ll buy your yarrow as a plant. Space your plants 12 to 24 inches apart if you’re planting more than one yarrow plant.
You can also start your yarrow herb from seed. Start seeds indoors about six to eight weeks before your last frost date. Sow the seeds in moist, normal potting soil. The seeds should just barely be covered by the potting soil. Place the pot with the yarrow seeds in a sunny and warm location. The seeds should germinate in 14 to 21 days, depending on the conditions. You can speed up the germination by covering the top of the pot with plastic wrap to keep in moisture and heat. Remove the plastic wrap once the seeds have sprouted. Regardless of whether your yarrow plants are grown from seed or bought as full plants, you will want to plant them in full sun. They thrive in a wide variety of soils but do best in well drained soil. Yarrow plant will even grow in very poor dry soils with low fertility soil. Some caution should be taken when growing yarrow, as in the right conditions, it can become invasive and will then be in need of control.
How to Grow Yarrow
Once you have planted your yarrow, it needs little care. It doesn’t need to be fertilized and only needs to be watered during times of severe drought. While yarrow needs little care, it is susceptible to a few diseases and pests. Most commonly, plants will be affected by either botrytis mold or powdery mildew. These will both appear as a white powdery covering on the leaves. Both can be treated with a fungicide. Yarrow plants are also occasionally affected by spittlebugs.
Using Yarrow Herb
Yarrow has many uses as an herb. It is commonly used as a medicinal herb that can treat the bleeding of minor wounds, swollen or cramping muscles, reducing fever or to help with relaxing. As with any medicinal herb, yarrow herb should not be taken without first consulting a physician. On the non-medicinal side, yarrow herb is an astringent and makes a good facial wash or shampoo. Whether you grow yarrow as a decorative plant or an herb, you can be sure that it will add beauty to your garden. Since yarrow care is so easy, you have nothing to lose by giving this ancient herb a small place in one of your flower beds.
How to Plant Yarrow
Yarrow is most often propagated by division, so chances are you’ll buy your yarrow as a plant. Space your plants 12 to 24 inches apart if you’re planting more than one yarrow plant.
You can also start your yarrow herb from seed. Start seeds indoors about six to eight weeks before your last frost date. Sow the seeds in moist, normal potting soil. The seeds should just barely be covered by the potting soil. Place the pot with the yarrow seeds in a sunny and warm location. The seeds should germinate in 14 to 21 days, depending on the conditions. You can speed up the germination by covering the top of the pot with plastic wrap to keep in moisture and heat. Remove the plastic wrap once the seeds have sprouted. Regardless of whether your yarrow plants are grown from seed or bought as full plants, you will want to plant them in full sun. They thrive in a wide variety of soils but do best in well drained soil. Yarrow plant will even grow in very poor dry soils with low fertility soil. Some caution should be taken when growing yarrow, as in the right conditions, it can become invasive and will then be in need of control.
How to Grow Yarrow
Once you have planted your yarrow, it needs little care. It doesn’t need to be fertilized and only needs to be watered during times of severe drought. While yarrow needs little care, it is susceptible to a few diseases and pests. Most commonly, plants will be affected by either botrytis mold or powdery mildew. These will both appear as a white powdery covering on the leaves. Both can be treated with a fungicide. Yarrow plants are also occasionally affected by spittlebugs.
Using Yarrow Herb
Yarrow has many uses as an herb. It is commonly used as a medicinal herb that can treat the bleeding of minor wounds, swollen or cramping muscles, reducing fever or to help with relaxing. As with any medicinal herb, yarrow herb should not be taken without first consulting a physician. On the non-medicinal side, yarrow herb is an astringent and makes a good facial wash or shampoo. Whether you grow yarrow as a decorative plant or an herb, you can be sure that it will add beauty to your garden. Since yarrow care is so easy, you have nothing to lose by giving this ancient herb a small place in one of your flower beds.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月25日
There are many varieties of Artemisia, also known as mugwort and wormwood plant. One of the most common varieties grown for its sweet-smelling, silvery foliage is sweet wormwood (A. annua) or sweet Annie plant. Growing sweet Annie and other wormwood plants is easy. They make interesting additions to nearly any garden as they’re quite adaptable and hardy plants. In fact, some varieties are even considered invasive if not kept properly maintained. Let’s look at how to grow wormwood plant in your garden.
How to Grow Wormwood Plant
Grow wormwood or sweet Annie plant in a sunny location and well-drained soil. This plant doesn’t like being overly wet. Wormwood is generally planted in spring. If starting plants from seeds, sow the small seeds in flats and set the seedlings out in the garden well after the last frost in spring.
Once established, wormwood plants require little care. In addition to occasional watering, these plants can be fertilized once a year. Light pruning can be performed to help keep these plants from becoming unruly, especially the spreading varieties. Wormwood plants are not typically affected by many disease problems, other than root rot from overly wet soil. Their scented foliage also deters many garden pests.
Growing Sweet Annie Plant
Sweet Annie is typically grown in the garden for its feathery, sweet-smelling foliage and yellow blooms, which are often used in floral decorations and wreaths. Although this variety is considered an annual, sweet Annie generally reseeds itself readily in the garden and in some cases, can become a nuisance. The feathery, fern-like foliage appears in spring and blooms in late summer. As sweet Annie takes up space in the garden, growing to about 2 feet tall, allow plenty of room for it in the garden.
Harvest sweet Annie plant just as its blooms begin to appear in late summer for use in floral arrangements or wreaths. When drying sweet Annie, place branches in small bundles and hang upside down in a dark, well-ventilated area for about two to three weeks or until dry. When collecting seeds, cut the foliage to the ground (leave some plants remaining for self-seeding) and place in a paper bag. Allow to dry and then gently shake the seeds loose. Growing sweet Annie plants, like all other wormwood varieties, is easy. These plants make great additions to many gardens and can even be grown in containers. Their attractive, sweet-smelling foliage provides year-round interest and also deters many common garden pests. Best of all, sweet Annie plants require little maintenance once established.
How to Grow Wormwood Plant
Grow wormwood or sweet Annie plant in a sunny location and well-drained soil. This plant doesn’t like being overly wet. Wormwood is generally planted in spring. If starting plants from seeds, sow the small seeds in flats and set the seedlings out in the garden well after the last frost in spring.
Once established, wormwood plants require little care. In addition to occasional watering, these plants can be fertilized once a year. Light pruning can be performed to help keep these plants from becoming unruly, especially the spreading varieties. Wormwood plants are not typically affected by many disease problems, other than root rot from overly wet soil. Their scented foliage also deters many garden pests.
Growing Sweet Annie Plant
Sweet Annie is typically grown in the garden for its feathery, sweet-smelling foliage and yellow blooms, which are often used in floral decorations and wreaths. Although this variety is considered an annual, sweet Annie generally reseeds itself readily in the garden and in some cases, can become a nuisance. The feathery, fern-like foliage appears in spring and blooms in late summer. As sweet Annie takes up space in the garden, growing to about 2 feet tall, allow plenty of room for it in the garden.
Harvest sweet Annie plant just as its blooms begin to appear in late summer for use in floral arrangements or wreaths. When drying sweet Annie, place branches in small bundles and hang upside down in a dark, well-ventilated area for about two to three weeks or until dry. When collecting seeds, cut the foliage to the ground (leave some plants remaining for self-seeding) and place in a paper bag. Allow to dry and then gently shake the seeds loose. Growing sweet Annie plants, like all other wormwood varieties, is easy. These plants make great additions to many gardens and can even be grown in containers. Their attractive, sweet-smelling foliage provides year-round interest and also deters many common garden pests. Best of all, sweet Annie plants require little maintenance once established.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月25日
If you are a salad lover, as I am, it is more than likely that you are familiar with watercress. Because watercress thrives in clear, slow moving water, many gardeners refrain from planting it. The fact is that the plant is very adaptable and watercress cultivation can be attained in a number of different ways at home. So, how to grow watercress in the home garden? Read on to learn more.
Watercress Cultivation
Watercress is a perennial cultivated for its clean, slightly peppery tasting leaves and stems. Seen wild, it grows partially submerged in running water and flooded areas in moderately cool climates. If you have a water feature in your landscape, this is a great place to cultivate watercress, but don’t despair if not. Watercress can also be grown in consistently wet soil with a soil pH of 6.5-7.5 in full sun, or you can mimic natural conditions by growing watercress plants in a bucket or other container. In the garden proper, you can dig out a 6-inch furrow, line it with 4-6 mil polyethylene and then fill with 2 inches of composted soil or peat moss. Of course, if you have a running stream on your property, watercress cultivation is about as simple as it gets.
Growing Watercress Plants
Watercress can be grown from seed, transplants or cuttings. Watercress varieties abound, but the most common home grown variety is Nasturtium officinale. Prior to planting, choose a sunny location and amend the garden soil with 4-6 inches of composted organic matter down to a depth of 6-8 inches. Seeds are tiny, so they need to be lightly broadcast over the prepared site. Sow three weeks before the frost free date for your area. This plant germinates best in cool conditions (50-60 degrees F. or 10-15 C.) but not frigid. Keep the planting area moist but not covered with water. Container grown plants can be placed in a saucer filled with water to retain moisture. Seedlings will appear in about five days. If you are transplanting, space the plants 8 inches apart once all chance of frost has passed.
Care of Watercress
Consistent moisture is the number one concern in the care of watercress; after all, water is its milieu. Container grown plants can be placed in a bucket filled with 2-3 inches of water so the roots stay submerged. Although the plant does not have high nutrient requirements, cultivated cress may show signs of potassium, iron or phosphorus deficiencies. A complete soluble fertilizer applied at the recommended rate should mitigate any of these issues. In the garden, keep the area around the plants free from weeds and mulch to aid in water retention. Snails love watercress and should be removed by hand or trapped. Whiteflies also like the plant and can be controlled with soapy water or insecticidal soap. Spider mites cause leaf discoloration and general deterioration of the plant. Natural predators such as lady beetles, predatory mites or thrips can help control these pests.
Watercress Harvesting
The flavor of watercress is best during the cool months of the year. Once the plant blossoms, the flavor is compromised. Watercress harvesting can commence about three weeks after emergence. Cutting or pruning the plants will encourage them to be thicker and lush. Cut the plants to a height of about 4 inches. Wash the cuttings thoroughly and store in a plastic bag in the refrigerator for as long as week. Harvesting can continue year round, adding a boost of vitamins A and C, along with niacin, ascorbic acid, thiamine, riboflavin and iron to your ho-hum salad or an added zing to compound butters or sauces.
Watercress Cultivation
Watercress is a perennial cultivated for its clean, slightly peppery tasting leaves and stems. Seen wild, it grows partially submerged in running water and flooded areas in moderately cool climates. If you have a water feature in your landscape, this is a great place to cultivate watercress, but don’t despair if not. Watercress can also be grown in consistently wet soil with a soil pH of 6.5-7.5 in full sun, or you can mimic natural conditions by growing watercress plants in a bucket or other container. In the garden proper, you can dig out a 6-inch furrow, line it with 4-6 mil polyethylene and then fill with 2 inches of composted soil or peat moss. Of course, if you have a running stream on your property, watercress cultivation is about as simple as it gets.
Growing Watercress Plants
Watercress can be grown from seed, transplants or cuttings. Watercress varieties abound, but the most common home grown variety is Nasturtium officinale. Prior to planting, choose a sunny location and amend the garden soil with 4-6 inches of composted organic matter down to a depth of 6-8 inches. Seeds are tiny, so they need to be lightly broadcast over the prepared site. Sow three weeks before the frost free date for your area. This plant germinates best in cool conditions (50-60 degrees F. or 10-15 C.) but not frigid. Keep the planting area moist but not covered with water. Container grown plants can be placed in a saucer filled with water to retain moisture. Seedlings will appear in about five days. If you are transplanting, space the plants 8 inches apart once all chance of frost has passed.
Care of Watercress
Consistent moisture is the number one concern in the care of watercress; after all, water is its milieu. Container grown plants can be placed in a bucket filled with 2-3 inches of water so the roots stay submerged. Although the plant does not have high nutrient requirements, cultivated cress may show signs of potassium, iron or phosphorus deficiencies. A complete soluble fertilizer applied at the recommended rate should mitigate any of these issues. In the garden, keep the area around the plants free from weeds and mulch to aid in water retention. Snails love watercress and should be removed by hand or trapped. Whiteflies also like the plant and can be controlled with soapy water or insecticidal soap. Spider mites cause leaf discoloration and general deterioration of the plant. Natural predators such as lady beetles, predatory mites or thrips can help control these pests.
Watercress Harvesting
The flavor of watercress is best during the cool months of the year. Once the plant blossoms, the flavor is compromised. Watercress harvesting can commence about three weeks after emergence. Cutting or pruning the plants will encourage them to be thicker and lush. Cut the plants to a height of about 4 inches. Wash the cuttings thoroughly and store in a plastic bag in the refrigerator for as long as week. Harvesting can continue year round, adding a boost of vitamins A and C, along with niacin, ascorbic acid, thiamine, riboflavin and iron to your ho-hum salad or an added zing to compound butters or sauces.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月25日
Thyme plants, like most woody herbs, do best when they are pruned regularly. Taking the time to trim thyme not only creates a nicer looking plant, but also helps improve the amount you can harvest from the plant. Keep reading to learn how to cut thyme so that it grows best for you.
When to Prune Thyme Plants
The right time to trim thyme will depend on the kind of pruning you plan on performing on the plant. There are four ways of pruning thyme plants and they are:
Hard Rejuvenation – Late fall after first frost
Light Rejuvenation – After blooming in the summer
Shaping – Spring
Harvesting – Anytime during active growth (spring and summer)
Let’s look at why and how to prune thyme in these different ways.
How to Prune Thyme
Pruning Thyme for Hard Rejuvenation
In most cases, thyme plants don’t need hard rejuvenation pruning because they are normally harvested on a regular basis and harvesting prevents the thyme plant from becoming too woody. Sometimes, a neglected thyme plant may need to be pruned back hard to remove woody growth and encourage tender, usable growth. Hard rejuvenation pruning normally take a few years to complete. In late fall, after the first frost, select one-third of the oldest and woodiest stems on your thyme plant. Using sharp, clean shears, cut these stems back by half. Repeat the process the next year until your thyme plant has returned to growing younger, more tender stems all over the plant.
Pruning Thyme for Light Rejuvenation
When you trim thyme for light rejuvenation, you are basically ensuring that your thyme plant doesn’t become too woody in the future. In late summer, after the thyme plant has flowered, select the one-third oldest stems on the plant. Using sharp, clean shears, cut these back by two-third. This should be done yearly for the best health of the plant.
Pruning Thyme for Shaping
All thyme, whether it is upright thyme or creeping thyme, tends to get a little wild looking if not shaped regularly. If you’re okay with your thyme getting a bit wild looking, you don’t need to cut your thyme to shape it. But, if you want a thyme plant that is a little more formal, you’ll want to shape your thyme plant yearly. In the spring, after new growth has started to appear, take a moment to picture how you would like your thyme plant to look. Keeping that shape in mind, use a sharp, clean pair of shears to trim the thyme plant in that shape. Don’t cut the thyme plant back more than one-third when shaping. If you need to cut back your thyme plant by more than one-third in order to achieve the shape that you would like, only do a one-third cut back each year until the desired shape of the thyme plant is achieved.
Cutting Thyme for Harvesting
Thyme can be cut at any time during the spring and summer to harvest. It is best though to stop harvesting thyme about three to four weeks before the first frost. This will allow the more tender stems on the thyme plant to harden off some before the cold comes and will make it so you have less dieback on the thyme plant over the winter.
When to Prune Thyme Plants
The right time to trim thyme will depend on the kind of pruning you plan on performing on the plant. There are four ways of pruning thyme plants and they are:
Hard Rejuvenation – Late fall after first frost
Light Rejuvenation – After blooming in the summer
Shaping – Spring
Harvesting – Anytime during active growth (spring and summer)
Let’s look at why and how to prune thyme in these different ways.
How to Prune Thyme
Pruning Thyme for Hard Rejuvenation
In most cases, thyme plants don’t need hard rejuvenation pruning because they are normally harvested on a regular basis and harvesting prevents the thyme plant from becoming too woody. Sometimes, a neglected thyme plant may need to be pruned back hard to remove woody growth and encourage tender, usable growth. Hard rejuvenation pruning normally take a few years to complete. In late fall, after the first frost, select one-third of the oldest and woodiest stems on your thyme plant. Using sharp, clean shears, cut these stems back by half. Repeat the process the next year until your thyme plant has returned to growing younger, more tender stems all over the plant.
Pruning Thyme for Light Rejuvenation
When you trim thyme for light rejuvenation, you are basically ensuring that your thyme plant doesn’t become too woody in the future. In late summer, after the thyme plant has flowered, select the one-third oldest stems on the plant. Using sharp, clean shears, cut these back by two-third. This should be done yearly for the best health of the plant.
Pruning Thyme for Shaping
All thyme, whether it is upright thyme or creeping thyme, tends to get a little wild looking if not shaped regularly. If you’re okay with your thyme getting a bit wild looking, you don’t need to cut your thyme to shape it. But, if you want a thyme plant that is a little more formal, you’ll want to shape your thyme plant yearly. In the spring, after new growth has started to appear, take a moment to picture how you would like your thyme plant to look. Keeping that shape in mind, use a sharp, clean pair of shears to trim the thyme plant in that shape. Don’t cut the thyme plant back more than one-third when shaping. If you need to cut back your thyme plant by more than one-third in order to achieve the shape that you would like, only do a one-third cut back each year until the desired shape of the thyme plant is achieved.
Cutting Thyme for Harvesting
Thyme can be cut at any time during the spring and summer to harvest. It is best though to stop harvesting thyme about three to four weeks before the first frost. This will allow the more tender stems on the thyme plant to harden off some before the cold comes and will make it so you have less dieback on the thyme plant over the winter.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月24日
Elfin creeping thyme plant is as cherubic as its name implies, with small glossy, green aromatic leaves and teeny weensy purple or pink blossoms. Keep reading for information on elfin thyme care.
What is Elfin Thyme?
This nugget of information does not completely answer the question of, “What is elfin thyme?” Elfin creeping thyme plant (Thymus serpyllum) is a low growing (1-2 inches tall) herbaceous perennial sub shrub with a dense mounding habit. In cold climates, this little herb is deciduous, while in milder regions, the plant will retain its foliage year round. Flowers are borne upon the fragrant green to grayish blue foliage in summer and are extremely attractive to bees. Native to Europe, this little creeping variety of thyme is not only drought and heat tolerant, but deer and rabbit resistant, making it a lovely option for a natural garden landscape.
How Do I Plant Elfin Thyme?
The slightly fuzzy or haired foliage of a growing elfin thyme works well among stepping stones, trailing through a rock garden and even as a forgiving substitute for grassy lawns. These little guys are adaptable to foot traffic, even fairly heavy foot traffic, and continue to spread while being tromped on, filling the air with their heavenly scent. Growing elfin thyme is hardy to USDA hardiness zone 4 and should be planted in full sun and well draining soil, although it will also adapt to shadier areas. Shaded areas of growing elfin thyme will tend to clump more while sun exposure encourages the thyme to become more of a ground cover, spreading to a width of about 4 to 8 inches. When growing elfin thyme, the plants require at least five hours of sun per day and should be spaced 6 inches apart.
Elfin Thyme Care
The care of elfin thyme isn’t complicated. These hardy and forgiving herbs adapt to a variety of climatic and environmental conditions, even able to survive cold winter weather and sustained frost. Needing no fertilization or frequent watering and with an ability to withstand both hot, dry conditions or chilly weather, elfin creeping thyme plant is often a prized selection for xeriscaping, a landscaping plan that requires no irrigation. Although the leaves are flavorful and aromatic, the tiny 1/8 to 3/8 inch leaves are rather a pain to pick, so most people use other varieties of common thyme for their culinary herb uses and allow elfin thyme to play the role of an ornamental.
What is Elfin Thyme?
This nugget of information does not completely answer the question of, “What is elfin thyme?” Elfin creeping thyme plant (Thymus serpyllum) is a low growing (1-2 inches tall) herbaceous perennial sub shrub with a dense mounding habit. In cold climates, this little herb is deciduous, while in milder regions, the plant will retain its foliage year round. Flowers are borne upon the fragrant green to grayish blue foliage in summer and are extremely attractive to bees. Native to Europe, this little creeping variety of thyme is not only drought and heat tolerant, but deer and rabbit resistant, making it a lovely option for a natural garden landscape.
How Do I Plant Elfin Thyme?
The slightly fuzzy or haired foliage of a growing elfin thyme works well among stepping stones, trailing through a rock garden and even as a forgiving substitute for grassy lawns. These little guys are adaptable to foot traffic, even fairly heavy foot traffic, and continue to spread while being tromped on, filling the air with their heavenly scent. Growing elfin thyme is hardy to USDA hardiness zone 4 and should be planted in full sun and well draining soil, although it will also adapt to shadier areas. Shaded areas of growing elfin thyme will tend to clump more while sun exposure encourages the thyme to become more of a ground cover, spreading to a width of about 4 to 8 inches. When growing elfin thyme, the plants require at least five hours of sun per day and should be spaced 6 inches apart.
Elfin Thyme Care
The care of elfin thyme isn’t complicated. These hardy and forgiving herbs adapt to a variety of climatic and environmental conditions, even able to survive cold winter weather and sustained frost. Needing no fertilization or frequent watering and with an ability to withstand both hot, dry conditions or chilly weather, elfin creeping thyme plant is often a prized selection for xeriscaping, a landscaping plan that requires no irrigation. Although the leaves are flavorful and aromatic, the tiny 1/8 to 3/8 inch leaves are rather a pain to pick, so most people use other varieties of common thyme for their culinary herb uses and allow elfin thyme to play the role of an ornamental.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月24日
The thyme herb (Thymus vulgaris) is frequently used for both culinary and decorative uses. The thyme plant is a versatile and lovely plant to grow both in an herb garden and in your garden in general. Growing thyme isn’t hard, and with the correct knowledge, this herb will flourish in your yard.
Growing Thyme Seeds
The thyme plant can be grown from seed, but frequently people choose to avoid growing thyme seeds. Thyme seeds are difficult to germinate and can take a long time to sprout. If you would like to grow thyme from seeds, follow these steps for growing thyme seeds: Gently scatter seeds over the soil in the container you will be planting thyme seeds. Next, gently scatter soil over the seeds. Water thoroughly. Cover with plastic wrap. Place the container in a warm location. Seeds will germinate in one to 12 weeks. Once thyme seedlings are 4 inches high, plant them where you will be growing thyme in your garden.
Planting Thyme from Divisions
Normally, a thyme plant is grown from a division. Thyme is easy to divide. In the spring or fall, find a mature thyme plant. Use a spade to gently lift the clump of thyme up from the ground. Tear or cut a smaller clump of thyme from the main plant, making sure there is a root ball intact on the division. Replant the mother plant and plant the division where you would like to grow the thyme herb.
Tips for Growing Thyme
The flavor of the thyme plant benefits from active neglect. Growing thyme in poor soil with little water will actually cause the thyme to grow better. For this reason, thyme herb is an excellent choice for xeriscaping or low water landscapes. In the late fall, if you live in an area that freezes, you’ll want to mulch the thyme plant. Be sure to remove the mulch in the spring.
Harvesting Thyme Herb
Harvesting thyme is easy. Simply snip off what you need for your recipe. Once a thyme plant is established (about a year), it’s very hard to over-harvest the plant. If you have just planted your thyme, cut back no more than one-third of the plant.
Growing Thyme Seeds
The thyme plant can be grown from seed, but frequently people choose to avoid growing thyme seeds. Thyme seeds are difficult to germinate and can take a long time to sprout. If you would like to grow thyme from seeds, follow these steps for growing thyme seeds: Gently scatter seeds over the soil in the container you will be planting thyme seeds. Next, gently scatter soil over the seeds. Water thoroughly. Cover with plastic wrap. Place the container in a warm location. Seeds will germinate in one to 12 weeks. Once thyme seedlings are 4 inches high, plant them where you will be growing thyme in your garden.
Planting Thyme from Divisions
Normally, a thyme plant is grown from a division. Thyme is easy to divide. In the spring or fall, find a mature thyme plant. Use a spade to gently lift the clump of thyme up from the ground. Tear or cut a smaller clump of thyme from the main plant, making sure there is a root ball intact on the division. Replant the mother plant and plant the division where you would like to grow the thyme herb.
Tips for Growing Thyme
The flavor of the thyme plant benefits from active neglect. Growing thyme in poor soil with little water will actually cause the thyme to grow better. For this reason, thyme herb is an excellent choice for xeriscaping or low water landscapes. In the late fall, if you live in an area that freezes, you’ll want to mulch the thyme plant. Be sure to remove the mulch in the spring.
Harvesting Thyme Herb
Harvesting thyme is easy. Simply snip off what you need for your recipe. Once a thyme plant is established (about a year), it’s very hard to over-harvest the plant. If you have just planted your thyme, cut back no more than one-third of the plant.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月24日
Growing tarragon indoors allows you easy access to the herb and gives the plant protection from cold temperatures. Tarragon is only half hardy and doesn’t perform well when exposed to winter chill. There are a few tips to learning how to grow tarragon indoors. Herbs generally like dry soil, bright light and temperatures near 70 F. (21 C.). Growing tarragon inside is easy if you just follow a few simple requirements.
How to Grow Tarragon Indoors
Tarragon is an attractive herb with slender, slightly twisted leaves. The plant is a perennial and will reward you will many seasons of flavor if you care for it well. Tarragon grows as a many stemmed bush that can get semi-woody as it ages. While most herbs thrive in full sun, tarragon seems to perform best in a lower or diffused light situation. Allow a location of at least 24 inches height for growing tarragon inside. If your kitchen has a window facing anywhere but south, you can successfully grow tarragon. The leaves are the useful part of the plant and are best used fresh. They add a light anise flavor to foods and are good paired with fish or chicken. Tarragon leaves also impart their flavor to vinegar and lends its flavor to sauces, dressings and marinades. Planting tarragon indoors in the kitchen herb garden is an excellent way to take advantage of this fresh herb.
Herbs need good drainage so the choice of pot is important. A clay pot that is not glazed will allow excess moisture to evaporate. The pot also needs several drainage holes and should be at least 12 to 16 inches deep. Use three parts of a good potting soil with the addition of one part sand to give the mixture good tilth and enhance draining. Add other herbs with similar requirements when planting tarragon indoors. This will give you many flavors and textures to chose from when cooking. Give tarragon growing indoors at least six to eight hours of light. Fertilize the herb with a dilution of fish fertilizer every two weeks. Don’t overwater when growing tarragon inside. Indoor herbs should be kept on the dry side. Provide a thorough watering and then allow the plant to dry out between periods of irrigation. Provide humidity by spritzing the plant with water every couple of days.
Moving Tarragon Outside
Tarragon can get almost 2 feet in height and may require pruning or division. If you want to just move the plant outside and get a smaller one for indoors, you need to acclimate it first by moving the plant outdoors for gradually longer periods over two weeks. You can also cut the root ball of the tarragon in half and replant both halves in different locations for more plants. If the tarragon growing indoors is well cared for, it will need pruning. Prune back to a growth node or remove entire stems back to the primary stem.
How to Grow Tarragon Indoors
Tarragon is an attractive herb with slender, slightly twisted leaves. The plant is a perennial and will reward you will many seasons of flavor if you care for it well. Tarragon grows as a many stemmed bush that can get semi-woody as it ages. While most herbs thrive in full sun, tarragon seems to perform best in a lower or diffused light situation. Allow a location of at least 24 inches height for growing tarragon inside. If your kitchen has a window facing anywhere but south, you can successfully grow tarragon. The leaves are the useful part of the plant and are best used fresh. They add a light anise flavor to foods and are good paired with fish or chicken. Tarragon leaves also impart their flavor to vinegar and lends its flavor to sauces, dressings and marinades. Planting tarragon indoors in the kitchen herb garden is an excellent way to take advantage of this fresh herb.
Herbs need good drainage so the choice of pot is important. A clay pot that is not glazed will allow excess moisture to evaporate. The pot also needs several drainage holes and should be at least 12 to 16 inches deep. Use three parts of a good potting soil with the addition of one part sand to give the mixture good tilth and enhance draining. Add other herbs with similar requirements when planting tarragon indoors. This will give you many flavors and textures to chose from when cooking. Give tarragon growing indoors at least six to eight hours of light. Fertilize the herb with a dilution of fish fertilizer every two weeks. Don’t overwater when growing tarragon inside. Indoor herbs should be kept on the dry side. Provide a thorough watering and then allow the plant to dry out between periods of irrigation. Provide humidity by spritzing the plant with water every couple of days.
Moving Tarragon Outside
Tarragon can get almost 2 feet in height and may require pruning or division. If you want to just move the plant outside and get a smaller one for indoors, you need to acclimate it first by moving the plant outdoors for gradually longer periods over two weeks. You can also cut the root ball of the tarragon in half and replant both halves in different locations for more plants. If the tarragon growing indoors is well cared for, it will need pruning. Prune back to a growth node or remove entire stems back to the primary stem.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月24日
St. John’s wort (Hypericum spp.) is a pretty little shrub with cheery yellow flowers that have a burst of long, showy stamen in the center. The blossoms last from midsummer until fall, and they are followed by colorful berries. St. John’s wort plant care is a snap, so let’s find out how easy it is to grow these delightful shrubs.
Can I Grow St. John’s Wort?
If you live in USDA plant hardiness zones 5 or 6 to 10 and have a partially shaded site, you can probably grow St. John’s wort. The plant isn’t particular about the soil type. It grows well in sand, clay, rocky soil or loam, and tolerates acidic to slightly alkaline pH. St. John’s wort adapts to both moist and dry soil, and even tolerates occasional flooding. It also withstands drought but grows best with irrigation during prolonged dry spells. You won’t find a plant that will thrive in more situations.
How to Grow St. John’s Wort
Growing St. John’s wort herb in a location with too much sun can lead to leaf scorch, while too much shade reduces the number of flowers. The best location is one with bright morning sunlight and a little shade in the hottest part of the afternoon. If your soil isn’t particularly fertile, prepare the bed before transplanting. Spread about 2 inches of compost or rotted manure over the area and dig it in to a depth of at least 8 inches. Transplant the shrubs into the garden, setting them at the height at which they grew in their containers. They grow only 1 to 3 feet tall with a spread of 1.5 to 2 feet, so space them 24 to 36 inches apart. Water slowly and deeply after planting and keep the soil moist until the transplants are well-established.
St John’s Wort Plant Uses
St. John’s wort makes an attractive ground cover and soil stabilizer. Once established, the plants need no care, and this makes them ideal for out-of-the-way locations. You can also use it as an edging or to mark boundaries and pathways where you don’t want to obstruct the view. Other uses include containers, rock gardens and foundation plantings. The species plants self-seed and can become weedy, particularly common St. John’s wort (H. perforatum). Ornamental cultivars are well-behaved plants that aren’t likely to grow out of control. Here are a few cultivars you might want to try: H. x moserianum ‘Tricolor’ – This cultivar is noted for its variegated foliage with a rainbow of color that includes red, pink, cream and green. H. frondosum ‘Sunburst’ – This is one of the cultivars that can take winter temperatures down to zone 5. It forms a bushy mound up to 2 feet in diameter. The Hypearls series includes the cultivars ‘Olivia’, ‘Renu’, ‘Jacqueline’ and ‘Jessica.’ This series is one of the best for hot climates. H. calycinum ‘Brigadoon’ – The flowers on this cultivar aren’t as conspicuous as some of the others, but it has chartreuse foliage that turns golden orange in bright sun.
Can I Grow St. John’s Wort?
If you live in USDA plant hardiness zones 5 or 6 to 10 and have a partially shaded site, you can probably grow St. John’s wort. The plant isn’t particular about the soil type. It grows well in sand, clay, rocky soil or loam, and tolerates acidic to slightly alkaline pH. St. John’s wort adapts to both moist and dry soil, and even tolerates occasional flooding. It also withstands drought but grows best with irrigation during prolonged dry spells. You won’t find a plant that will thrive in more situations.
How to Grow St. John’s Wort
Growing St. John’s wort herb in a location with too much sun can lead to leaf scorch, while too much shade reduces the number of flowers. The best location is one with bright morning sunlight and a little shade in the hottest part of the afternoon. If your soil isn’t particularly fertile, prepare the bed before transplanting. Spread about 2 inches of compost or rotted manure over the area and dig it in to a depth of at least 8 inches. Transplant the shrubs into the garden, setting them at the height at which they grew in their containers. They grow only 1 to 3 feet tall with a spread of 1.5 to 2 feet, so space them 24 to 36 inches apart. Water slowly and deeply after planting and keep the soil moist until the transplants are well-established.
St John’s Wort Plant Uses
St. John’s wort makes an attractive ground cover and soil stabilizer. Once established, the plants need no care, and this makes them ideal for out-of-the-way locations. You can also use it as an edging or to mark boundaries and pathways where you don’t want to obstruct the view. Other uses include containers, rock gardens and foundation plantings. The species plants self-seed and can become weedy, particularly common St. John’s wort (H. perforatum). Ornamental cultivars are well-behaved plants that aren’t likely to grow out of control. Here are a few cultivars you might want to try: H. x moserianum ‘Tricolor’ – This cultivar is noted for its variegated foliage with a rainbow of color that includes red, pink, cream and green. H. frondosum ‘Sunburst’ – This is one of the cultivars that can take winter temperatures down to zone 5. It forms a bushy mound up to 2 feet in diameter. The Hypearls series includes the cultivars ‘Olivia’, ‘Renu’, ‘Jacqueline’ and ‘Jessica.’ This series is one of the best for hot climates. H. calycinum ‘Brigadoon’ – The flowers on this cultivar aren’t as conspicuous as some of the others, but it has chartreuse foliage that turns golden orange in bright sun.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月24日
Tutsan is the larger flowered variety of Hypericum, or St. John’s Wort. It is native to western and southern Europe and from the Mediterranean to Iran. It was a common medicinal plant. Regional gardeners were growing Tutsan shrubs to make tinctures that cured all sorts of ills. Today, it is a spectacular deciduous flowering shrub that makes its best showing in June to August with large attractive berries following into September.
Tutsan Plant Info
If you are looking for an easy-to-grow, showy plant with several seasons of interest, look no further than Tutsan St. John’s Wort. The plant is fast growing and can even be sheared severely, giving it a refreshed look in spring. It is a high ground cover that may get 3 feet tall with a similar spread. Mass plantings of Tutsan flowers evoke woodsy appeal in even the most manicured of landscapes.
Tutsan St. John’s Wort is an ancient herb with ornamental appeal. Are Tutsan and St John’s Wort the same? They are both forms of Hypericum but Tutsan has larger floral displays than the Hypericum peiforatum, the wild form of the plant. Tutsan is classed as Hypericum androsaemum. An interesting bit of Tutsan plant info, states that this Hypericum’s leaves were apparently gathered and burned to ward off evil spirits on the eve of St. John’s Day. It has also been used since ancient times to treat wounds and inflammation. You can find it growing wild in damp woods and hedges, rambling around trees and other taller bushes. Tutsan comes from the French words “tout” (all) and “sain” (healthy), an apparent reference to the plant’s use as a healing compound.
Growing Tutsan Shrubs
Tutsan shrubs produce oval to oblong, 4-inch long leaves of glossy green often adorned with rusty hues. Tutsan flowers are 5 petaled, golden yellow and star shaped with bushy yellow stamens. These give way to small round, red fruits that become black with age. Flowers, seeds and leaves have a camphor-like odor when crushed or bruised. Tutsan seems to take to any soil type so long as it is well draining and any pH, even alkaline. It prefers shady to semi-shaded locations that mimic its natural positioning at the base of woods but can also thrive in sun. Plant seeds in fall or take hardwood cuttings in summer.
Tutsan Care
Hypericum are hardy plants suitable for USDA plant hardiness zones 5 to 10. Keep this species moist but not boggy. Rust is a common issue but it is relatively unbothered by insects and other disease. Cut the plant back hard in fall for better spring displays. In cold regions, apply a few inches of mulch around cut plants to protect roots from freezes. Other than that, Tutsan care is practically effortless. Enjoy the frilled golden blooms and bright berries as another performance winner and seasonal eye candy.
Tutsan Plant Info
If you are looking for an easy-to-grow, showy plant with several seasons of interest, look no further than Tutsan St. John’s Wort. The plant is fast growing and can even be sheared severely, giving it a refreshed look in spring. It is a high ground cover that may get 3 feet tall with a similar spread. Mass plantings of Tutsan flowers evoke woodsy appeal in even the most manicured of landscapes.
Tutsan St. John’s Wort is an ancient herb with ornamental appeal. Are Tutsan and St John’s Wort the same? They are both forms of Hypericum but Tutsan has larger floral displays than the Hypericum peiforatum, the wild form of the plant. Tutsan is classed as Hypericum androsaemum. An interesting bit of Tutsan plant info, states that this Hypericum’s leaves were apparently gathered and burned to ward off evil spirits on the eve of St. John’s Day. It has also been used since ancient times to treat wounds and inflammation. You can find it growing wild in damp woods and hedges, rambling around trees and other taller bushes. Tutsan comes from the French words “tout” (all) and “sain” (healthy), an apparent reference to the plant’s use as a healing compound.
Growing Tutsan Shrubs
Tutsan shrubs produce oval to oblong, 4-inch long leaves of glossy green often adorned with rusty hues. Tutsan flowers are 5 petaled, golden yellow and star shaped with bushy yellow stamens. These give way to small round, red fruits that become black with age. Flowers, seeds and leaves have a camphor-like odor when crushed or bruised. Tutsan seems to take to any soil type so long as it is well draining and any pH, even alkaline. It prefers shady to semi-shaded locations that mimic its natural positioning at the base of woods but can also thrive in sun. Plant seeds in fall or take hardwood cuttings in summer.
Tutsan Care
Hypericum are hardy plants suitable for USDA plant hardiness zones 5 to 10. Keep this species moist but not boggy. Rust is a common issue but it is relatively unbothered by insects and other disease. Cut the plant back hard in fall for better spring displays. In cold regions, apply a few inches of mulch around cut plants to protect roots from freezes. Other than that, Tutsan care is practically effortless. Enjoy the frilled golden blooms and bright berries as another performance winner and seasonal eye candy.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月24日
That bushy plant in your garden bearing yellow flowers summer through fall, the one known as St. John’s wort (Hypericum “Hidcote”) may be considered low-maintenance, but it flowers more prolifically if you give it an annual haircut. Read on for information about St. John’s wort pruning, including how and when to cut back St. John’s wort.
St. John’s Wort Pruning
St. John’s wort is an undemanding shrub that grows in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 5 through 9. If your shrub has fewer and fewer flowers every year, you may want to start pruning St. John’s wort. These are delightful plants to have in your garden, bright and colorful and easy-care. However, an annual pruning is necessary to keep the St. John’s wort nicely shaped and full of summer flowers. It also helps keep the plant in check overall, as it can be prone to getting out of control in some places.
When to Cut Back St. John’s Wort
St. John’s wort flowers on new growth. This means that all the blossoms you see in summer bud and bloom on the new wood the plant grows in spring. You must take this timing into account as you decide when to cut back St. John’s wort. You don’t want to reduce summer flowers by cutting off the new growth that will produce them. In fact, early spring is the time to do St. John’s wort pruning. Cutting back St. John’s wort shrub just before the new growth begins is ideal.
How to Prune a St. John’s Wort Shrub
Before you start cutting back St. John’s wort, be sure your shears are clean and sharp. Sterilize them if necessary in a mixture of bleach and water. If you are wondering how to prune a St. John’s wort shrub, here are some tips: Plan on pruning off about one-third of the total height of the shrub in mid or late March. Pruning St. John’s wort involves reducing all branch tips and selectively removing some branches to thin the plant. You should remove any branches that are dead, damaged or crossing. Remove others from crowded areas. Cutting back St. John’s wort increases flowering because every place you make a cut will branch into two stems. Each of those stem tips will develop a separate blossom cluster. Even if your shrub hasn’t flowered for a long time or appears beyond repair, give it a chance. You can prune St. John’s wort very severely – almost all the way to the ground – to rejuvenate it.
St. John’s Wort Pruning
St. John’s wort is an undemanding shrub that grows in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 5 through 9. If your shrub has fewer and fewer flowers every year, you may want to start pruning St. John’s wort. These are delightful plants to have in your garden, bright and colorful and easy-care. However, an annual pruning is necessary to keep the St. John’s wort nicely shaped and full of summer flowers. It also helps keep the plant in check overall, as it can be prone to getting out of control in some places.
When to Cut Back St. John’s Wort
St. John’s wort flowers on new growth. This means that all the blossoms you see in summer bud and bloom on the new wood the plant grows in spring. You must take this timing into account as you decide when to cut back St. John’s wort. You don’t want to reduce summer flowers by cutting off the new growth that will produce them. In fact, early spring is the time to do St. John’s wort pruning. Cutting back St. John’s wort shrub just before the new growth begins is ideal.
How to Prune a St. John’s Wort Shrub
Before you start cutting back St. John’s wort, be sure your shears are clean and sharp. Sterilize them if necessary in a mixture of bleach and water. If you are wondering how to prune a St. John’s wort shrub, here are some tips: Plan on pruning off about one-third of the total height of the shrub in mid or late March. Pruning St. John’s wort involves reducing all branch tips and selectively removing some branches to thin the plant. You should remove any branches that are dead, damaged or crossing. Remove others from crowded areas. Cutting back St. John’s wort increases flowering because every place you make a cut will branch into two stems. Each of those stem tips will develop a separate blossom cluster. Even if your shrub hasn’t flowered for a long time or appears beyond repair, give it a chance. You can prune St. John’s wort very severely – almost all the way to the ground – to rejuvenate it.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月24日
The sorrel herb is a tangy, lemony flavored plant. The youngest leaves have a slightly more acidic taste, but you can use mature leaves steamed or sautéed like spinach. Sorrel is also called sour dock and is a perennial herb that grows wild in many parts of the world. The herb is widely used in French cuisine but not as well known in the United States. Learn how to grow sorrel and add a citrus touch to your culinary herb garden.
Sorrel Plant
There are many varieties of sorrel plant but the most commonly used in cooking is French sorrel (Rumex scutatus). Sheep’s sorrel (Rumex acetosella) is native to North America and is not palatable to humans but produces nutritious fodder for animals. Leaf sorrel is cultivated as a garden herb and grows 2 feet high with upright stems. The leaves are smooth to crinkled and are from 3 to 6 inches long. When sorrel herb bolts, it produces an attractive whorled purple flower.
Planting Sorrel
Sow seeds for sorrel plant in spring when the soil has warmed up. Prepare a well drained bed with well tilled soil. Seeds should be 6 inches apart and just under the surface of the soil. Keep the bed moderately moist until germination and then thin the plants when they reach 2 inches high. Sorrel will not need a lot of supplemental care, but the bed does need to be kept weeded and the plants should receive at least 1 inch of water per week.
How to Grow Sorrel
Garden sorrel (Rumex acetosa) and French sorrel are the two cultivated varieties of the herb. Garden sorrel needs damp soils and temperate conditions. French sorrel performs best when it is grown in dry, open areas with inhospitable soils. The plants have very deep and persistent tap roots and grow well with little attention. Planting sorrel from seed or dividing the roots are the two most common ways to propagate the herb. Sorrel will usually bolt when temperatures begin to soar, usually in June or July. When this happens, you can allow the flower to bloom and enjoy it, but this slows the production of leaves. If you want to encourage larger and more leaf production, cut the flower stalk off and the plant will give you a few more harvests. You can even cut the plant to the ground and it will produce a full new crop of foliage.
Harvesting Sorrel Herb
Sorrel can be used from late spring until fall, with management. Harvest only what you need from the plant. It is much like lettuce and greens, where you can cut the outer leaves and the plant will continue to produce foliage. You can begin to harvest when the plants are 4 to 6 inches tall. The smallest leaves are best in salads and add an acidic tang. The larger leaves are more mellow. The herb is a traditional accompaniment to eggs and melts into creamy soups and sauces.
Sorrel Plant
There are many varieties of sorrel plant but the most commonly used in cooking is French sorrel (Rumex scutatus). Sheep’s sorrel (Rumex acetosella) is native to North America and is not palatable to humans but produces nutritious fodder for animals. Leaf sorrel is cultivated as a garden herb and grows 2 feet high with upright stems. The leaves are smooth to crinkled and are from 3 to 6 inches long. When sorrel herb bolts, it produces an attractive whorled purple flower.
Planting Sorrel
Sow seeds for sorrel plant in spring when the soil has warmed up. Prepare a well drained bed with well tilled soil. Seeds should be 6 inches apart and just under the surface of the soil. Keep the bed moderately moist until germination and then thin the plants when they reach 2 inches high. Sorrel will not need a lot of supplemental care, but the bed does need to be kept weeded and the plants should receive at least 1 inch of water per week.
How to Grow Sorrel
Garden sorrel (Rumex acetosa) and French sorrel are the two cultivated varieties of the herb. Garden sorrel needs damp soils and temperate conditions. French sorrel performs best when it is grown in dry, open areas with inhospitable soils. The plants have very deep and persistent tap roots and grow well with little attention. Planting sorrel from seed or dividing the roots are the two most common ways to propagate the herb. Sorrel will usually bolt when temperatures begin to soar, usually in June or July. When this happens, you can allow the flower to bloom and enjoy it, but this slows the production of leaves. If you want to encourage larger and more leaf production, cut the flower stalk off and the plant will give you a few more harvests. You can even cut the plant to the ground and it will produce a full new crop of foliage.
Harvesting Sorrel Herb
Sorrel can be used from late spring until fall, with management. Harvest only what you need from the plant. It is much like lettuce and greens, where you can cut the outer leaves and the plant will continue to produce foliage. You can begin to harvest when the plants are 4 to 6 inches tall. The smallest leaves are best in salads and add an acidic tang. The larger leaves are more mellow. The herb is a traditional accompaniment to eggs and melts into creamy soups and sauces.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月24日
Summer savory (Satureja hortensis) may not be as well known as some of its herb counterparts, but it’s a serious asset to any herb garden. Keep reading to learn more about growing summer savory herbs, including summer savory plant care.
Summer Savory Uses in the Garden
What is summer savory? It’s the annual equivalent of its close perennial cousin winter savory. While summer savory lasts for only one growing season, it’s thought to have the most superior flavor. It’s a popular ingredient in meat recipes, as well as oil, butter and vinegar infusions. Its flavor shines the most in bean dishes, however, earning it the name “the bean herb.” Summer savory plants grow in a mound-like formation and tend to reach a foot in height. The plant has many thin, branching stems with a purple cast that are covered in fine hairs. The inch long leaves are much longer than they are wide and have a gray green color to them.
How to Grow Summer Savory Plants
Growing summer savory herbs is very easy. The plant likes rich, moist, well-drained soil and full sun. It also grows quickly and easily enough that it’s not at all a hassle to start a new crop each spring. Summer savory plants can be sown as seed directly into the ground after all danger of frost has passed. The seeds can also be started indoors about 4 weeks before the last frost, then transplanted out in warmer weather. It can even be grown indoors during the winter.
Little summer savory plant care is necessary, other than watering. Harvest your summer savory by cutting off the tops when buds are just beginning to form. In order to have summer savory all summer long, sow new seeds once per week. This will allow you to have a constant supply of plants that are ready to harvest. Savory herb plants, both summer and winter types, can provide your garden (and food dishes) with that extra pizazz.
Summer Savory Uses in the Garden
What is summer savory? It’s the annual equivalent of its close perennial cousin winter savory. While summer savory lasts for only one growing season, it’s thought to have the most superior flavor. It’s a popular ingredient in meat recipes, as well as oil, butter and vinegar infusions. Its flavor shines the most in bean dishes, however, earning it the name “the bean herb.” Summer savory plants grow in a mound-like formation and tend to reach a foot in height. The plant has many thin, branching stems with a purple cast that are covered in fine hairs. The inch long leaves are much longer than they are wide and have a gray green color to them.
How to Grow Summer Savory Plants
Growing summer savory herbs is very easy. The plant likes rich, moist, well-drained soil and full sun. It also grows quickly and easily enough that it’s not at all a hassle to start a new crop each spring. Summer savory plants can be sown as seed directly into the ground after all danger of frost has passed. The seeds can also be started indoors about 4 weeks before the last frost, then transplanted out in warmer weather. It can even be grown indoors during the winter.
Little summer savory plant care is necessary, other than watering. Harvest your summer savory by cutting off the tops when buds are just beginning to form. In order to have summer savory all summer long, sow new seeds once per week. This will allow you to have a constant supply of plants that are ready to harvest. Savory herb plants, both summer and winter types, can provide your garden (and food dishes) with that extra pizazz.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月24日
Salad burnet plant is a Mediterranean native with hardy tolerance. It is a perennial herb, which is naturalized in Europe and North America. Salad burnet herb is a member of the rose family and is used as an erosion control, salad green and used for flavoring in vinegars and sauces. There are also old cosmetic and medicinal applications for the plant. Salad burnet is easy to grow and makes a useful addition to the herb garden or perennial bed.
Salad Burnet Herb
The salad burnet herb (Sanguisorba minor) is a low 6- to 18-inch leafy plant that begins as a rosette. It has pinnate basal leaves with four to 12 pairs of leaflets. The leaflets are oval and lightly serrated at the edges. The leaves taste like cucumber and add a fresh taste to salads. The herb is savory when mixed into an herb butter, mixed into spreading cheese, chopped and sprinkled over vegetables or as part of a potato dish. Clumps of the plant get 12 inches across and remain small with consistent harvesting.
Salad Burnet Flowers
Salad burnet flowers appear in spring and are in a rounded cluster of purple to pink tiny blooms. Salad burnet flowers can be used as a garnish for fresh drinks or cakes. Salad burnet plant has male, bisexual and female flowers that appear in late spring and early summer. The top flowers are male, middle flowers bisexual and the female flowers grow on the top of the cluster. The flowering stems rise from the basal rosette and can grow to 1 foot in height.
How to Grow Salad Burnet
Learning how to grow salad burnet is similar to learning any herbal cultivation. It thrives in well-drained soil with a pH of 6.8 and a sunny to partially shady location. The herb starts easily from seed, which should be planted 12 inches apart. The old foliage and flowering stems need to be removed, as they appear to force new growth. The bed needs to be weeded and salad burnet should be watered during dry periods. Salad burnet does not tolerate transplanting so ensure you like the location before you plant the herb. The flowers of salad burnet herb are not self-pollinating and must be pollinated by wind. In good conditions, the plants will form seed in fall. They will self-seed easily and form a patch of the herb. Older plants should be removed because their flavor is not as good as the plant ages. New plants grow so easily that a constant supply of tender new leaves can be had by saving seed and successional sowing. Sprinkle the seed in the garden bed and cover lightly with a dusting of sand. With moderate moisture, salad burnet growing is easy and fast.
Salad Burnet Herb
The salad burnet herb (Sanguisorba minor) is a low 6- to 18-inch leafy plant that begins as a rosette. It has pinnate basal leaves with four to 12 pairs of leaflets. The leaflets are oval and lightly serrated at the edges. The leaves taste like cucumber and add a fresh taste to salads. The herb is savory when mixed into an herb butter, mixed into spreading cheese, chopped and sprinkled over vegetables or as part of a potato dish. Clumps of the plant get 12 inches across and remain small with consistent harvesting.
Salad Burnet Flowers
Salad burnet flowers appear in spring and are in a rounded cluster of purple to pink tiny blooms. Salad burnet flowers can be used as a garnish for fresh drinks or cakes. Salad burnet plant has male, bisexual and female flowers that appear in late spring and early summer. The top flowers are male, middle flowers bisexual and the female flowers grow on the top of the cluster. The flowering stems rise from the basal rosette and can grow to 1 foot in height.
How to Grow Salad Burnet
Learning how to grow salad burnet is similar to learning any herbal cultivation. It thrives in well-drained soil with a pH of 6.8 and a sunny to partially shady location. The herb starts easily from seed, which should be planted 12 inches apart. The old foliage and flowering stems need to be removed, as they appear to force new growth. The bed needs to be weeded and salad burnet should be watered during dry periods. Salad burnet does not tolerate transplanting so ensure you like the location before you plant the herb. The flowers of salad burnet herb are not self-pollinating and must be pollinated by wind. In good conditions, the plants will form seed in fall. They will self-seed easily and form a patch of the herb. Older plants should be removed because their flavor is not as good as the plant ages. New plants grow so easily that a constant supply of tender new leaves can be had by saving seed and successional sowing. Sprinkle the seed in the garden bed and cover lightly with a dusting of sand. With moderate moisture, salad burnet growing is easy and fast.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月24日
The piney scent of a rosemary plant is a favorite of many gardeners. This semi hardy shrub can be grown as hedges and edging in areas that are USDA Plant Hardiness Zone 6 or higher. In other zones, this herb makes a delightful annual in the herb garden or can be grown in pots and brought indoors. Because rosemary is such a wonderful herb, many gardeners want to know how to propagate rosemary. You can propagate rosemary from either rosemary seeds, rosemary cuttings or layering. Let’s look at how.
Step-by-Step Instructions Stem Cutting Rosemary
Rosemary cuttings are the most common way in how to propagate rosemary.
Take a 2- to 3-inch cutting from a mature rosemary plant with a clean, sharp pair of shears. Rosemary cuttings should be taken from the soft or new wood on the plant. The soft wood is most easily harvested in the spring when the plant is in its most active growth phase. Remove the leaves from the bottom two-thirds of the cutting leaving at least five or six leaves. Take the rosemary cuttings and place it in a well draining potting medium. Cover the pot with a plastic bag or plastic wrap to help the cuttings retain moisture. Place in indirect light. When you see new growth, remove plastic. Transplant to a new location.
How to Propagate Rosemary with Layering
Propagating a rosemary plant through layering is much like doing so through rosemary cuttings, except the “cuttings” stay attached to the mother plant. Choose a somewhat long stem, one that when bent over can reach the ground. Bend the stem down to the ground and pin it to the ground, leaving at least 2 to 3 inches of the tip on the other side of the pin. Strip away the bark and leaves that are 1/2 inch on either side of the pin. Bury the pin and the bare bark with soil. Once new growth appears on the tip, cut the stem away from the mother rosemary plant. Transplant to a new location.
How to Propagate Rosemary with Rosemary Seeds
Soak seeds is warm water overnight.
Scatter across the soil.
Cover lightly with soil.
Germination may take up to three months
Step-by-Step Instructions Stem Cutting Rosemary
Rosemary cuttings are the most common way in how to propagate rosemary.
Take a 2- to 3-inch cutting from a mature rosemary plant with a clean, sharp pair of shears. Rosemary cuttings should be taken from the soft or new wood on the plant. The soft wood is most easily harvested in the spring when the plant is in its most active growth phase. Remove the leaves from the bottom two-thirds of the cutting leaving at least five or six leaves. Take the rosemary cuttings and place it in a well draining potting medium. Cover the pot with a plastic bag or plastic wrap to help the cuttings retain moisture. Place in indirect light. When you see new growth, remove plastic. Transplant to a new location.
How to Propagate Rosemary with Layering
Propagating a rosemary plant through layering is much like doing so through rosemary cuttings, except the “cuttings” stay attached to the mother plant. Choose a somewhat long stem, one that when bent over can reach the ground. Bend the stem down to the ground and pin it to the ground, leaving at least 2 to 3 inches of the tip on the other side of the pin. Strip away the bark and leaves that are 1/2 inch on either side of the pin. Bury the pin and the bare bark with soil. Once new growth appears on the tip, cut the stem away from the mother rosemary plant. Transplant to a new location.
How to Propagate Rosemary with Rosemary Seeds
Soak seeds is warm water overnight.
Scatter across the soil.
Cover lightly with soil.
Germination may take up to three months
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