求助
stamey_lisa
2017年08月21日
Does anyone know what these brown spots are? They are only on the side the sun hits. Could they be sunburn? I thought this plant required full sun...
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meriunkat：Maybe they weren't ready for full sunlight exposure? You must expose them to sunlight gradually so they are allowed to get used to it.
Ueca：Sadly it won't go away...
Jeannie：Sun burn seems likely to me. My succulents, believe your plant is a Jade plant, prefer light shade. We live in a very sunny area in California.
sunnyzou：yes，they are sunburn。It like sunlight，but not direct sunlight。It needs bright scattered light。
求助
Lili1919
2017年08月21日
Can someone help me to identify this plant? Thanks !!
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Lili1919：@sunnyzou they're not shiny like the leaves of hoya carnosa. I have one of Those at home too.
sunnyzou：It's leafs really like Hoya carnosa（L.f.）R. B
文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月21日
If ever there was the perfect plant for the ultimate brown thumb, the easy ZZ plant is it. This virtually indestructible houseplant can take months and months of neglect and low light and still look amazing. Previously, the ZZ plant would only be found in planters in malls and large office buildings where they would frequently be mistaken for fake plants, partially because they needed so little care and always looked healthy. But in recent years, they have found their way onto the shelves of both big box and hardware stores where anyone can purchase one. This has led to many people wondering how to grow ZZ plants. The short answer is that it takes very little effort.
Learn About the ZZ Plant
The ZZ plant (Zamioculcas zamiifolia) gets its common name from its botanical name. As Zamioculcas zamiifolia was long and difficult to say, many nursery workers simply shortened it to Zz. ZZ plant stems grow in a graceful, wand-like shape that starts thick and bulbous at the base and then tapers to a point. Along the stem are fleshy, oval-shaped leaves that make the plant look like stylized feathers. The entire plant has a waxy, shiny coating that makes it appear to resemble those made of plastic. Between the sculptural qualities of the plant and its waxy coating, it is not uncommon for people to insist that it must be an artificial plant.
How to Grow ZZ Plants
ZZ plants do best in bright to moderate, indirect light but will do fine in extremely low levels of light. This plant makes an ideal plant for a window-less office or bathroom where it will only receive small amounts of fluorescent light. While ZZ plants can take direct light, you may see some scalding on the leaves if it is left in direct light. Additionally, curling leaves, yellowing and leaning can all be an indication of too much light. When you notice curling taking place, it typically means the plant is trying to move away from the light source. Move the plant to a shadier location or farther away from the light source. You can also try filtering the light with curtains or blinds if moving the plant is not feasible.
Caring for a ZZ Plant
ZZ plant care starts with a lack of care. In fact, ZZ plants will do better if you leave them alone. Much like cacti, they need less rather than more water. Water the plant only when the soil has dried out. The rare way you can kill this plant is to over water it. A ZZ plant turning yellow means that it is getting too much water and its underground rhizomes may be rotting. So if you remember nothing else about caring for a ZZ plant, just remember to forget to water it. It can survive months without water, but will grow faster if watered somewhat regularly. ZZ plants are happy without fertilizer, but if you would like, you can give the plants half strength fertilizer one to two times a year and only in the summer months. Growing ZZ houseplants is easy and especially suited for the forgetful gardener.
Learn About the ZZ Plant
The ZZ plant (Zamioculcas zamiifolia) gets its common name from its botanical name. As Zamioculcas zamiifolia was long and difficult to say, many nursery workers simply shortened it to Zz. ZZ plant stems grow in a graceful, wand-like shape that starts thick and bulbous at the base and then tapers to a point. Along the stem are fleshy, oval-shaped leaves that make the plant look like stylized feathers. The entire plant has a waxy, shiny coating that makes it appear to resemble those made of plastic. Between the sculptural qualities of the plant and its waxy coating, it is not uncommon for people to insist that it must be an artificial plant.
How to Grow ZZ Plants
ZZ plants do best in bright to moderate, indirect light but will do fine in extremely low levels of light. This plant makes an ideal plant for a window-less office or bathroom where it will only receive small amounts of fluorescent light. While ZZ plants can take direct light, you may see some scalding on the leaves if it is left in direct light. Additionally, curling leaves, yellowing and leaning can all be an indication of too much light. When you notice curling taking place, it typically means the plant is trying to move away from the light source. Move the plant to a shadier location or farther away from the light source. You can also try filtering the light with curtains or blinds if moving the plant is not feasible.
Caring for a ZZ Plant
ZZ plant care starts with a lack of care. In fact, ZZ plants will do better if you leave them alone. Much like cacti, they need less rather than more water. Water the plant only when the soil has dried out. The rare way you can kill this plant is to over water it. A ZZ plant turning yellow means that it is getting too much water and its underground rhizomes may be rotting. So if you remember nothing else about caring for a ZZ plant, just remember to forget to water it. It can survive months without water, but will grow faster if watered somewhat regularly. ZZ plants are happy without fertilizer, but if you would like, you can give the plants half strength fertilizer one to two times a year and only in the summer months. Growing ZZ houseplants is easy and especially suited for the forgetful gardener.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月21日
ZZ plant is a slow growing, reliable performer that is doggedly loyal even when you mistreat it. It is such an easy plant that creating more of them to share with friends and family seems like a good idea. Propagating ZZ plants is easy but can take up nine months or more. Learn how to root ZZ plant cuttings for a better chance at success.
ZZ Plant Leaf Propagation
It is common to find a ZZ plant in an office setting with low light and no fresh air. The uncomplaining plant, Zamioculcus zamiifolia, is also known as eternity plant, fat boy, aroid palm and many more common names. It hails from the Southeast coast of Africa and has been an important houseplant in the industry for years. ZZ plants grow from large thick rhizomes. Propagating ZZ plants is as easy as separating these or you can try rooting leaf cuttings.
Propagation of ZZ plants by division can only be done once in a while. This is because the plant produces new rhizomes very slowly and removing some frequently will damage the parent plant. Since rhizomes are slow, it is best to look at leaf cuttings as the source of material for propagation. Stems cuttings alone will not work well, but if you take a cutting with two leaves and a bit of stem, the rooting and growth is quicker than just a single leaf and no stem. ZZ plant leaf cuttings are the recommended method by professional growers and can result in new rhizomes in about 4 weeks when grown in nearly 80 degree Fahrenheit (26 C.) conditions. However, most of us don’t have greenhouse conditions so the process could take nine months or more.
Soil for ZZ Leaf Cuttings
Once you have the correct type of cutting, it is time to consider the medium. Some houseplants can root in just a glass of water; however, rooting ZZ plant in water will likely result in a rotten cutting and isn’t the best way to establish new plants. They need to be in well-drained soil or the newly forming rhizomes will mold and fall away. The best mixture for rooting is often one that is almost soilless. At best, it should have superior drainage. Try a good potting soil with plenty of vermiculite or perlite added into it or use a mixture of half peat and half perlite. The perlite or vermiculite will give the medium a light texture and help prevent soil from maintaining too much moisture.
How to Root ZZ Plant Cuttings
Take your ZZ plant leaf cuttings from mature stems. Allow the cut end to callus over for a few hours. Then insert it into your medium, cut end down. Place in a warm area with bright light during the day. Check for roots and rhizome formation after a month. Once you have a few tiny rootlets and the bud of a rhizome, you can transplant the cuttings to larger containers. It is a good idea to start many cuttings with ZZ plant leaf propagation because some of them may not take off. Additionally, checking to see if they have roots may actually kill the cutting, but if you have more than one you still have a chance of more ZZ plants. Be very patient. Some growers have mentioned the nine month period as the end of all your waiting, but it could take even longer if the cutting doesn’t have enough light and temperatures aren’t warm enough. Simply put the cuttings somewhere that you will remember to water them occasionally and wait it out. Over time, this slow grower will jump into action and provide you with the start of a new plant.
ZZ Plant Leaf Propagation
It is common to find a ZZ plant in an office setting with low light and no fresh air. The uncomplaining plant, Zamioculcus zamiifolia, is also known as eternity plant, fat boy, aroid palm and many more common names. It hails from the Southeast coast of Africa and has been an important houseplant in the industry for years. ZZ plants grow from large thick rhizomes. Propagating ZZ plants is as easy as separating these or you can try rooting leaf cuttings.
Propagation of ZZ plants by division can only be done once in a while. This is because the plant produces new rhizomes very slowly and removing some frequently will damage the parent plant. Since rhizomes are slow, it is best to look at leaf cuttings as the source of material for propagation. Stems cuttings alone will not work well, but if you take a cutting with two leaves and a bit of stem, the rooting and growth is quicker than just a single leaf and no stem. ZZ plant leaf cuttings are the recommended method by professional growers and can result in new rhizomes in about 4 weeks when grown in nearly 80 degree Fahrenheit (26 C.) conditions. However, most of us don’t have greenhouse conditions so the process could take nine months or more.
Soil for ZZ Leaf Cuttings
Once you have the correct type of cutting, it is time to consider the medium. Some houseplants can root in just a glass of water; however, rooting ZZ plant in water will likely result in a rotten cutting and isn’t the best way to establish new plants. They need to be in well-drained soil or the newly forming rhizomes will mold and fall away. The best mixture for rooting is often one that is almost soilless. At best, it should have superior drainage. Try a good potting soil with plenty of vermiculite or perlite added into it or use a mixture of half peat and half perlite. The perlite or vermiculite will give the medium a light texture and help prevent soil from maintaining too much moisture.
How to Root ZZ Plant Cuttings
Take your ZZ plant leaf cuttings from mature stems. Allow the cut end to callus over for a few hours. Then insert it into your medium, cut end down. Place in a warm area with bright light during the day. Check for roots and rhizome formation after a month. Once you have a few tiny rootlets and the bud of a rhizome, you can transplant the cuttings to larger containers. It is a good idea to start many cuttings with ZZ plant leaf propagation because some of them may not take off. Additionally, checking to see if they have roots may actually kill the cutting, but if you have more than one you still have a chance of more ZZ plants. Be very patient. Some growers have mentioned the nine month period as the end of all your waiting, but it could take even longer if the cutting doesn’t have enough light and temperatures aren’t warm enough. Simply put the cuttings somewhere that you will remember to water them occasionally and wait it out. Over time, this slow grower will jump into action and provide you with the start of a new plant.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月21日
Growing waffle plants as part of a dish garden or a mixed container provides unusual, cascading foliage with a purple color and metallic tint. Waffle plant info indicates that the plant, also known as red ivy or red flame ivy, grows easily indoors under the right growing conditions.
Growing Waffle Plants
Learning how to grow Hemigraphis alternata and other waffle plant species is fairly simple once you have it in the right location. Red ivy plant care requires that the plant get bright, but indirect light, meaning direct sunlight should not reach the foliage. When growing waffle plants in direct sun, much of the foliage color washes out and leaf tips can burn. Keep growing waffle plants away from drafts as well.
Waffle plant info says growing waffle plants need evenly moist soil. Consistent watering of well drained soil promotes growth and well-being of the waffle plant. However, do not allow roots of the plant to remain in a soggy soil.
Info also indicates high humidity is an integral part of red ivy plant care. Mist the plant regularly, or better yet, create a pebble tray to provide humidity to all your indoor plants. Place layers of pebbles in a plant saucer, or any container without drainage holes. Fill three-quarters of the way with water. Set the plants on top of the pebbles, or near the pebble tray. Indoor humidity is usually low, especially in winter. Pebble trays are an easy way to give your houseplants what they need. Waffle plant info says it is easy to get more growing waffle plants by propagating from stem cuttings. Take 4- to 6-inch stem pieces from the waffle plant, removing all but the top leaves, and place in small containers in moist soil.
Fertilize with a liquid houseplant food or granulated fertilizer. Water as needed to keep the soil moist and you should have rooted cuttings ready to transplant in seven to 10 days. Use the cuttings with compatible plants for more dish gardens. Now that you’ve learned how to grow Hemigraphis alternata, take advantage of its showy color in different houseplant combinations.
Growing Waffle Plants
Learning how to grow Hemigraphis alternata and other waffle plant species is fairly simple once you have it in the right location. Red ivy plant care requires that the plant get bright, but indirect light, meaning direct sunlight should not reach the foliage. When growing waffle plants in direct sun, much of the foliage color washes out and leaf tips can burn. Keep growing waffle plants away from drafts as well.
Waffle plant info says growing waffle plants need evenly moist soil. Consistent watering of well drained soil promotes growth and well-being of the waffle plant. However, do not allow roots of the plant to remain in a soggy soil.
Info also indicates high humidity is an integral part of red ivy plant care. Mist the plant regularly, or better yet, create a pebble tray to provide humidity to all your indoor plants. Place layers of pebbles in a plant saucer, or any container without drainage holes. Fill three-quarters of the way with water. Set the plants on top of the pebbles, or near the pebble tray. Indoor humidity is usually low, especially in winter. Pebble trays are an easy way to give your houseplants what they need. Waffle plant info says it is easy to get more growing waffle plants by propagating from stem cuttings. Take 4- to 6-inch stem pieces from the waffle plant, removing all but the top leaves, and place in small containers in moist soil.
Fertilize with a liquid houseplant food or granulated fertilizer. Water as needed to keep the soil moist and you should have rooted cuttings ready to transplant in seven to 10 days. Use the cuttings with compatible plants for more dish gardens. Now that you’ve learned how to grow Hemigraphis alternata, take advantage of its showy color in different houseplant combinations.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月21日
Carnivorous plants are endlessly fascinating. One such plant, the Venus flytrap, or Dionaea muscipula, is native to boggy areas of North and South Carolina. While the flytrap photosynthesizes and garners nutrients from the soil just as other plants, the fact is that boggy soil is less than nutritious. For this reason, the Venus flytrap has adapted to ingesting insects to round out its need for nutrients. If you are lucky enough to have one of these charmingly strange plants, you may have encountered some Venus flytrap problems – namely getting a Venus flytrap to close.
My Venus Flytrap Won’t Close
Probably the biggest reason your Venus flytrap does not snap shut is because it’s exhausted, sort of. The leaves of the flytrap have short, stiff cilia or trigger hairs. When something touches these hairs enough to bend them, the dual lobes of the leaves close, effectively trapping the “something” inside in less than a second.
There is a lifespan for these leaves, however. Ten to twelve times of snapping shut and they cease to function as trapping leaves and remain open, functioning as photosynthesizers. Chances are good that a store bought plant has already been jostled in transit and played with by any number of potential buyers and are just plain done. You will have to wait patiently for new traps to grow. It is also possible that the reason your Venus flytrap doesn’t snap shut is because it’s dying. Blackening leaves may signal this and are caused by bacteria, which may infect the trap if it hasn’t completely closed when feeding, as when an overly large bug is caught and it can’t shut tightly. A complete seal of the trap is needed to keep the digestive juices in and bacteria out. A dead plant will be brown-black, mushy, and have a rotting odor.
Getting a Venus Flytrap to Close
If you feed your Venus flytrap a dead insect, it will not struggle and signal the cilia to close. You have to manipulate the trap gently to simulate a live insect and allow the trap to snap shut. The trap then secretes digestive juices, dissolving the soft innards of the bug. After five to 12 days, the digestive process is completed, the trap opens and the exoskeleton is blown away or washed out with the rain. Getting your flytrap to close may be a matter of temperature regulation. Venus flytraps are sensitive to the cold which will cause the traps to close very slowly.
Keep in mind that the hairs on the traps or lamina have to be stimulated for the trap to shut. At least one hair must be touched twice or several hairs in rapid succession as when an insect is struggling. The plant can distinguish between a living insect and say, raindrops, and will not close for the latter. Lastly, like most plants, the Venus flytrap lies dormant during the fall through to the following spring. During this time period, the trap is in hibernation and has no need for additional nutrition; hence, the traps do not respond to stimulus. Overall green color in the leaves indicates the plant is simply resting and fasting and not dead.
My Venus Flytrap Won’t Close
Probably the biggest reason your Venus flytrap does not snap shut is because it’s exhausted, sort of. The leaves of the flytrap have short, stiff cilia or trigger hairs. When something touches these hairs enough to bend them, the dual lobes of the leaves close, effectively trapping the “something” inside in less than a second.
There is a lifespan for these leaves, however. Ten to twelve times of snapping shut and they cease to function as trapping leaves and remain open, functioning as photosynthesizers. Chances are good that a store bought plant has already been jostled in transit and played with by any number of potential buyers and are just plain done. You will have to wait patiently for new traps to grow. It is also possible that the reason your Venus flytrap doesn’t snap shut is because it’s dying. Blackening leaves may signal this and are caused by bacteria, which may infect the trap if it hasn’t completely closed when feeding, as when an overly large bug is caught and it can’t shut tightly. A complete seal of the trap is needed to keep the digestive juices in and bacteria out. A dead plant will be brown-black, mushy, and have a rotting odor.
Getting a Venus Flytrap to Close
If you feed your Venus flytrap a dead insect, it will not struggle and signal the cilia to close. You have to manipulate the trap gently to simulate a live insect and allow the trap to snap shut. The trap then secretes digestive juices, dissolving the soft innards of the bug. After five to 12 days, the digestive process is completed, the trap opens and the exoskeleton is blown away or washed out with the rain. Getting your flytrap to close may be a matter of temperature regulation. Venus flytraps are sensitive to the cold which will cause the traps to close very slowly.
Keep in mind that the hairs on the traps or lamina have to be stimulated for the trap to shut. At least one hair must be touched twice or several hairs in rapid succession as when an insect is struggling. The plant can distinguish between a living insect and say, raindrops, and will not close for the latter. Lastly, like most plants, the Venus flytrap lies dormant during the fall through to the following spring. During this time period, the trap is in hibernation and has no need for additional nutrition; hence, the traps do not respond to stimulus. Overall green color in the leaves indicates the plant is simply resting and fasting and not dead.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月21日
Venus flytraps are enjoyable and entertaining plants. Their needs and growing conditions are quite different from those of other houseplants. Find out what this unique plant needs to stay strong and healthy, and what to do when Venus flytraps are turning black in this article.
Why to Flytraps Turn Black?
Each trap on a Venus flytrap plant has a limited lifespan. On average, a trap lives about three months. The end may look dramatic, but there is usually nothing wrong with the plant.
When you find that the traps on a Venus flytrap turn black much sooner than they should or when several traps die at once, check your feeding practices and growing conditions. Correcting the problem can save the plant.
Feeding flytraps
Venus flytraps kept indoors depend on their caretakers to provide the insect meals they need to thrive. These plants are so much fun to feed that it’s easy to get carried away. It takes a lot of energy to close a trap and digest the food inside. If you close too many at once, the plant uses all of its reserves and the traps begin to blacken. Wait until the traps are fully open and feed just one or two a week. If you’re feeding the right amount and the Venus flytrap is turning black anyway, perhaps the problem is what you are feeding it. If a bit of the insect, such as a leg or a wing, sticks outside the trap, it won’t be able to make a good seal so that it can digest the food properly. Use insects that are no more than one-third the size of the trap. If the trap catches a bug that is too large on its own just leave it alone. The trap may die, but the plant will survive and grow new traps.
Growing conditions
Venus flytraps are a bit fussy about their soil, water and container. The fertilizers and minerals that are added to commercial potting soils help most plants grow, but they are fatal to Venus flytraps. Use a potting mix labeled specifically for Venus flytraps, or make your own from peat moss and sand or perlite. Clay pots also contain minerals, and they leach out when you water the plant, so use plastic or glazed ceramic pots. Water the plant with filtered water to avoid the introduction of chemicals that may be in your tap water. The plant also needs plenty of sunlight. Strong light coming in from a south-facing window is best. If you don’t have strong natural light available, you will have to use grow lights. Good care and proper conditions are essential to preserve the life and health of the plant.
Why to Flytraps Turn Black?
Each trap on a Venus flytrap plant has a limited lifespan. On average, a trap lives about three months. The end may look dramatic, but there is usually nothing wrong with the plant.
When you find that the traps on a Venus flytrap turn black much sooner than they should or when several traps die at once, check your feeding practices and growing conditions. Correcting the problem can save the plant.
Feeding flytraps
Venus flytraps kept indoors depend on their caretakers to provide the insect meals they need to thrive. These plants are so much fun to feed that it’s easy to get carried away. It takes a lot of energy to close a trap and digest the food inside. If you close too many at once, the plant uses all of its reserves and the traps begin to blacken. Wait until the traps are fully open and feed just one or two a week. If you’re feeding the right amount and the Venus flytrap is turning black anyway, perhaps the problem is what you are feeding it. If a bit of the insect, such as a leg or a wing, sticks outside the trap, it won’t be able to make a good seal so that it can digest the food properly. Use insects that are no more than one-third the size of the trap. If the trap catches a bug that is too large on its own just leave it alone. The trap may die, but the plant will survive and grow new traps.
Growing conditions
Venus flytraps are a bit fussy about their soil, water and container. The fertilizers and minerals that are added to commercial potting soils help most plants grow, but they are fatal to Venus flytraps. Use a potting mix labeled specifically for Venus flytraps, or make your own from peat moss and sand or perlite. Clay pots also contain minerals, and they leach out when you water the plant, so use plastic or glazed ceramic pots. Water the plant with filtered water to avoid the introduction of chemicals that may be in your tap water. The plant also needs plenty of sunlight. Strong light coming in from a south-facing window is best. If you don’t have strong natural light available, you will have to use grow lights. Good care and proper conditions are essential to preserve the life and health of the plant.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月21日
Carnivorous plants are fun to grow and fascinating to watch and learn about. The Venus fly trap (Dionaea muscipula) is a moisture loving plant that grows near marshes and bogs. The plants have been overharvested in their native habitat and are becoming rare. Native to only a few areas in North and South Carolina, Venus fly traps grow in nitrogen depleted soils. This is why they trap insects, which provide them with the necessary nitrogen. Venus fly trap care is relatively easy and makes a great family project.
How to Care for a Venus Fly Trap
The Venus fly trap needs slightly acidic moist soils. Grow a Venus fly trap in a peat moss and sand mixture, which will provide mild acidity and help hold water without keeping soils too soggy. The plant needs at least 60 percent humidity and day time temperatures of 70 to 75 F. (22-24 C.). Nighttime temperatures should not go below 55 F. (13 C.). The Venus fly trap is sensitive to chemicals and heavy mineral contents, so a distilled or bottled water is best. Keep water off the foliage by soaking the plant for an hour in a dish of water to moisten the soil. In order to make Venus fly trap care easier, make it a terrarium. An old aquarium makes a good housing for the plant if you cover it. This encourages humidity and moisture retention and you can allow insects to fly around inside for the plant to catch. Line the inside with TWO parts sphagnum moss and one part sand. The Venus fly trap can then be placed in an east- or west-facing window with high indirect lighting.
Venus fly trap is a rosette form with four to six leaves that are hinged and able to close. They are tinged a rosy pink on the edges and secrete an attractive nectar. The edges of the leaves have numerous fine sensitive cilia. When an insect touches the cilia the leaf closes and traps the insect. Special digestive juices disintegrate the insect and the plant feeds on the insects bodily fluid. Caring for a venus fly trap must ensure that it is exposed to areas where it can capture insects. Learn how to care for a Venus fly trap to help this disappearing species continue.
What to Feed a Venus Fly Trap Plant
The fly trap lives up to its name by using its clasping leaves to trap insects. Its diet is not only confined to flies and it will eat creeping insects such as ants, too. When you are caring for a Venus fly trap indoors, you need to assist them by capturing insects. Use tweezers and place the insect on an open leaf pad and tickle the little hairs on the edge until it closes. Some people try to water with beef bouillon or another protein but this can cause mold to form and is not recommended.
How to Care for a Venus Fly Trap
The Venus fly trap needs slightly acidic moist soils. Grow a Venus fly trap in a peat moss and sand mixture, which will provide mild acidity and help hold water without keeping soils too soggy. The plant needs at least 60 percent humidity and day time temperatures of 70 to 75 F. (22-24 C.). Nighttime temperatures should not go below 55 F. (13 C.). The Venus fly trap is sensitive to chemicals and heavy mineral contents, so a distilled or bottled water is best. Keep water off the foliage by soaking the plant for an hour in a dish of water to moisten the soil. In order to make Venus fly trap care easier, make it a terrarium. An old aquarium makes a good housing for the plant if you cover it. This encourages humidity and moisture retention and you can allow insects to fly around inside for the plant to catch. Line the inside with TWO parts sphagnum moss and one part sand. The Venus fly trap can then be placed in an east- or west-facing window with high indirect lighting.
Venus fly trap is a rosette form with four to six leaves that are hinged and able to close. They are tinged a rosy pink on the edges and secrete an attractive nectar. The edges of the leaves have numerous fine sensitive cilia. When an insect touches the cilia the leaf closes and traps the insect. Special digestive juices disintegrate the insect and the plant feeds on the insects bodily fluid. Caring for a venus fly trap must ensure that it is exposed to areas where it can capture insects. Learn how to care for a Venus fly trap to help this disappearing species continue.
What to Feed a Venus Fly Trap Plant
The fly trap lives up to its name by using its clasping leaves to trap insects. Its diet is not only confined to flies and it will eat creeping insects such as ants, too. When you are caring for a Venus fly trap indoors, you need to assist them by capturing insects. Use tweezers and place the insect on an open leaf pad and tickle the little hairs on the edge until it closes. Some people try to water with beef bouillon or another protein but this can cause mold to form and is not recommended.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月21日
What is a tortoise plant? Also known as elephant foot yam, tortoise plant is a weird but wonderful plant named for its large tuberous stem that resembles a tortoise or an elephant’s foot, depending how you look at it.
Tortoise Plant Info
Attractive, heart-shaped vines grow from the corky bark of the tortoise plant. The starchy tuber, which is partially buried, grows slowly; however, in time, the tuber can reach heights of more than 3 feet and width of up to 10 feet. With proper care, tortoise plant can live as long as 70 years.
Native to South Africa, tortoise plant is drought tolerant and does fine in extreme heat. The plant may survive a frost but a hard freeze is likely to kill it. If you decide to try your hand at growing this fascinating plant, be sure to ask for the plant by its scientific name – Dioscorea elephantipes. The Dioscorea genus includes other unique plants such as Chinese yam, air potato and water yam.
How to Grow Tortoise Plants
In most climates, tortoise plants are grown as indoor plants, and the plant is relatively easy to grow from seed. The roots aren’t deep, so plant tortoise plant in a shallow pot filled with a porous, well-drained potting mix. Water the plant around the edges of the pot and not directly on the tuber. Allow the soil to become nearly dry before watering again. Tortoise plant care is simple. Feed the plant with a very dilute (25 percent of normal) fertilizer with each watering. Withhold fertilizer and water sparingly during the plant’s dormant period – when the vines turn yellow and die back. Plants often go dormant during the summer, but there is no set pattern or time schedule.
If the vine dries up completely during dormancy, move the plant to a cool place and withhold water completely for about two weeks, then return it to the sunny location and resume normal care. If you grow tortoise plant outdoors, place it in sandy soil amended with rich, well-rotted compost. Be careful not to overwater.
Tortoise Plant Info
Attractive, heart-shaped vines grow from the corky bark of the tortoise plant. The starchy tuber, which is partially buried, grows slowly; however, in time, the tuber can reach heights of more than 3 feet and width of up to 10 feet. With proper care, tortoise plant can live as long as 70 years.
Native to South Africa, tortoise plant is drought tolerant and does fine in extreme heat. The plant may survive a frost but a hard freeze is likely to kill it. If you decide to try your hand at growing this fascinating plant, be sure to ask for the plant by its scientific name – Dioscorea elephantipes. The Dioscorea genus includes other unique plants such as Chinese yam, air potato and water yam.
How to Grow Tortoise Plants
In most climates, tortoise plants are grown as indoor plants, and the plant is relatively easy to grow from seed. The roots aren’t deep, so plant tortoise plant in a shallow pot filled with a porous, well-drained potting mix. Water the plant around the edges of the pot and not directly on the tuber. Allow the soil to become nearly dry before watering again. Tortoise plant care is simple. Feed the plant with a very dilute (25 percent of normal) fertilizer with each watering. Withhold fertilizer and water sparingly during the plant’s dormant period – when the vines turn yellow and die back. Plants often go dormant during the summer, but there is no set pattern or time schedule.
If the vine dries up completely during dormancy, move the plant to a cool place and withhold water completely for about two weeks, then return it to the sunny location and resume normal care. If you grow tortoise plant outdoors, place it in sandy soil amended with rich, well-rotted compost. Be careful not to overwater.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月21日
If you’re looking for something unusual to grow inside the home, you may want to consider growing a telegraph plant. What is a telegraph plant? Read on to learn more about this odd and interesting plant.
Telegraph Plant Info
What is a telegraph plant? Also known as the dancing plant, the telegraph plant (Codariocalyx motorius – formerly Desmodium gyrans) is a fascinating tropical plant that dances as the leaves move up and down in bright light. Telegraph plant also responds to warmth, high frequency sound waves or touch. During the night, the leaves droop downwards. Telegraph plant is native to Asia. This low-maintenance, problem-free member of the pea family is usually grown indoors, surviving outdoors only in the warmest climates. Telegraph plant is a vigorous grower that reaches heights of 2 to 4 feet at maturity.
Why Does a Telegraph Plant Move?
The plant’s hinged leaves move to reposition themselves where they receive more warmth and light. Some botanists believe the movements are caused by special cells that cause the leaves to move when water molecules swell or shrink. Charles Darwin studied the plants for many years. He believed the movements were the plant’s way of shaking water droplets from the leaves after a heavy rainfall.
How to Grow Telegraph Houseplants
Growing a dancing telegraph plant isn’t difficult, but patience is needed because the plant can be slow to germinate. Plant seeds indoors any time. Fill pots or seed trays with a compost-rich potting mix, such as orchid mix. Add a small amount of sand to improve drainage, then wet the mixture so it is evenly moist but not saturated. Soak the seeds in warm water for one to two days to soften the outer shell, and then plant them about 3/8 inch deep and cover the container with clear plastic. Place the container in a dimly lit, warm location where temperatures are between 75 and 80 F. or 23 to 26 C. Seeds usually sprout in about 30 days, but germination can take as long as 90 days to occur or as quickly as 10 days. Remove the plastic and move the tray to bright light when the seeds germinate. Water as needed to keep the potting mix consistently moist, but never soggy. When the seedlings are well-established, move them to 5-inch pots.
Telegraph Plant Care
Water telegraph plant when the top inch of soil feels slightly dry. Allow the pot to drain thoroughly and never let it stand in water. Feed the plant monthly throughout spring and summer using fish emulsion or a balanced houseplant fertilizer. Withhold fertilizer after the plant drops its leaves and enters winter dormancy.
Telegraph Plant Info
What is a telegraph plant? Also known as the dancing plant, the telegraph plant (Codariocalyx motorius – formerly Desmodium gyrans) is a fascinating tropical plant that dances as the leaves move up and down in bright light. Telegraph plant also responds to warmth, high frequency sound waves or touch. During the night, the leaves droop downwards. Telegraph plant is native to Asia. This low-maintenance, problem-free member of the pea family is usually grown indoors, surviving outdoors only in the warmest climates. Telegraph plant is a vigorous grower that reaches heights of 2 to 4 feet at maturity.
Why Does a Telegraph Plant Move?
The plant’s hinged leaves move to reposition themselves where they receive more warmth and light. Some botanists believe the movements are caused by special cells that cause the leaves to move when water molecules swell or shrink. Charles Darwin studied the plants for many years. He believed the movements were the plant’s way of shaking water droplets from the leaves after a heavy rainfall.
How to Grow Telegraph Houseplants
Growing a dancing telegraph plant isn’t difficult, but patience is needed because the plant can be slow to germinate. Plant seeds indoors any time. Fill pots or seed trays with a compost-rich potting mix, such as orchid mix. Add a small amount of sand to improve drainage, then wet the mixture so it is evenly moist but not saturated. Soak the seeds in warm water for one to two days to soften the outer shell, and then plant them about 3/8 inch deep and cover the container with clear plastic. Place the container in a dimly lit, warm location where temperatures are between 75 and 80 F. or 23 to 26 C. Seeds usually sprout in about 30 days, but germination can take as long as 90 days to occur or as quickly as 10 days. Remove the plastic and move the tray to bright light when the seeds germinate. Water as needed to keep the potting mix consistently moist, but never soggy. When the seedlings are well-established, move them to 5-inch pots.
Telegraph Plant Care
Water telegraph plant when the top inch of soil feels slightly dry. Allow the pot to drain thoroughly and never let it stand in water. Feed the plant monthly throughout spring and summer using fish emulsion or a balanced houseplant fertilizer. Withhold fertilizer after the plant drops its leaves and enters winter dormancy.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月21日
Sweetheart hoya plant, also known as Valentine plant or sweetheart wax plant, is a type of Hoya appropriately named for its thick, succulent, heart-shaped leaves. Like other Hoya varieties, sweetheart hoya plant is a stunning, low-maintenance indoor plant. Read on for additional wax plant info.
Hoya Wax Plant Info
Native to Southeast Asia, sweetheart hoya (Hoya kerrii) is often a quirky Valentine’s Day gift with a single 5-inch leaf planted upright in a small pot. Although the plant is relatively slow-growing, it appreciates a hanging basket, where it eventually becomes a bushy mass of green hearts. Mature plants can reach lengths of up to 13 feet. During the summer, clusters of white, burgundy-centered blooms provide bold contrast to the deep green or variegated leaves. One mature plant can display up to 25 blooms.
How to Grow a Sweetheart Wax Plant
Sweetheart hoya care isn’t complicated or involved, but the plant is somewhat particular about its growing conditions. This Valentine hoya tolerates relatively low light, but not full shade. However, the plant performs best and is more likely to bloom in bright or indirect sunlight. Room temperatures should be maintained between 60 and 80 F. or 15 and 26 C. With its fleshy, succulent leaves, sweetheart hoya is relatively drought-tolerant and can get by with as little as one or two waterings per month. Water deeply when the soil is slightly dry to the touch, then let the pot drain thoroughly.
Although the soil should never become bone dry, wet, soggy soil can result in deadly rot. Be sure sweetheart hoya is planted in a pot with a drainage hole. Sweetheart hoya is a light feeder and requires little fertilizer. A light solution of balanced, water-soluble houseplant fertilizer mixed at a rate of ¼ teaspoon in a gallon of water is plenty. Feed the plant once a month during the growing season and discontinue feeding in winter. If a mature plant doesn’t bloom, try exposing the plant to brighter light or cooler nighttime temperatures.
Hoya Wax Plant Info
Native to Southeast Asia, sweetheart hoya (Hoya kerrii) is often a quirky Valentine’s Day gift with a single 5-inch leaf planted upright in a small pot. Although the plant is relatively slow-growing, it appreciates a hanging basket, where it eventually becomes a bushy mass of green hearts. Mature plants can reach lengths of up to 13 feet. During the summer, clusters of white, burgundy-centered blooms provide bold contrast to the deep green or variegated leaves. One mature plant can display up to 25 blooms.
How to Grow a Sweetheart Wax Plant
Sweetheart hoya care isn’t complicated or involved, but the plant is somewhat particular about its growing conditions. This Valentine hoya tolerates relatively low light, but not full shade. However, the plant performs best and is more likely to bloom in bright or indirect sunlight. Room temperatures should be maintained between 60 and 80 F. or 15 and 26 C. With its fleshy, succulent leaves, sweetheart hoya is relatively drought-tolerant and can get by with as little as one or two waterings per month. Water deeply when the soil is slightly dry to the touch, then let the pot drain thoroughly.
Although the soil should never become bone dry, wet, soggy soil can result in deadly rot. Be sure sweetheart hoya is planted in a pot with a drainage hole. Sweetheart hoya is a light feeder and requires little fertilizer. A light solution of balanced, water-soluble houseplant fertilizer mixed at a rate of ¼ teaspoon in a gallon of water is plenty. Feed the plant once a month during the growing season and discontinue feeding in winter. If a mature plant doesn’t bloom, try exposing the plant to brighter light or cooler nighttime temperatures.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月21日
Plant enthusiasts are often looking for a bit of tropical flare to add to the landscape or home interior. Spindle palms are about as tropical looking as you can have, along with ease of care and paced growth that makes them a trouble free addition. This endangered plant is commonly cultivated and performs well in a range of areas provided enough light and space are available and freezing temperatures are not an issue. Learn how to care for a spindle palm plant and invite exotic specimen to your home.
Spindle Palm Plants
Spindle palms (Hyophorbe verschaffeltii) are slow growing plants equally at home in containers or in-ground. The plants are native to the Mascarene Islands in the Indian Ocean. Spindle palm plants are so called because of the ridges on the trunk that resemble a spindle and the shape, which is narrow at the base, widens and then constricts where fronds begin to grow.
The spindle palm is a true palm that may grow up to 25 feet in full sun conditions. The fronds are pinnately compound and up to10 feet long with a foot long petiole. This creates an arching effect that is elegant and pleasing as the leaves rustle in the wind. The trunk is light gray and swells midpoint, narrowing again into a slim, smooth green crown shaft from which leaves emerge. The creamy inflorescences are up to 2 feet long in clusters and become orange to red fleshy fruits just under an inch in diameter. In habitat, spindle palm growing conditions include sandy, well-drained soil and full sun. They often cluster together naturally in a grove. These plants look amazing in a similar form in the landscape or as stand-alone specimens in containers or garden beds. Many states do not have the correct spindle palm growing conditions for outdoor plants, but they can perform well potted in the home interior or greenhouse.
Growing Spindle Palm Trees
As an outdoor plant, spindle palms are recommended for United States Department of Agriculture zone 10 and down to 9b. In areas with minimal frost, plant them in a large container on casters so you can move the palm to a protected area if a cold snap threatens. Container plants require good drainage, bright light, consistent moisture and annual fertilizing. The nutrients most often needed in larger amounts are potassium and magnesium. Potassium deficiency will exhibit by large orange spots on the fronds. Good spindle palm tree care recommends an annual fertilization with a high potassium ratio once per year in early spring. In ground plants should be planted with top soil or peat moss added to the hole. Growing spindle palm trees in a bright western or southern edge of the house can help protect them and provide the lighting experience they crave. Install them 4 feet away from the house to give the fronds room to grow.
How to Care for a Spindle Palm
Spindle palms are remarkably unfussy. Once established, they can tolerate brief periods of drought and saline conditions. They are not technically self-cleaning, but grow so slowly you will only occasionally need to prune off dead fronds. Protection from frost is a large part of the plant’s care. Make a frame around the tree with chicken wire and cover with frost barrier fabric or even an old blanket when cold threatens. The plants also benefit from several inches of organic mulch around the root zone. Just be careful to leave a couple of inches around the stem free of mulch to prevent moisture build up and fungal issues. Water once per week during the growing season but, otherwise, this stoic plant can tolerate quite a bit of neglect and still stand elegant sentry to your landscape.
Spindle Palm Plants
Spindle palms (Hyophorbe verschaffeltii) are slow growing plants equally at home in containers or in-ground. The plants are native to the Mascarene Islands in the Indian Ocean. Spindle palm plants are so called because of the ridges on the trunk that resemble a spindle and the shape, which is narrow at the base, widens and then constricts where fronds begin to grow.
The spindle palm is a true palm that may grow up to 25 feet in full sun conditions. The fronds are pinnately compound and up to10 feet long with a foot long petiole. This creates an arching effect that is elegant and pleasing as the leaves rustle in the wind. The trunk is light gray and swells midpoint, narrowing again into a slim, smooth green crown shaft from which leaves emerge. The creamy inflorescences are up to 2 feet long in clusters and become orange to red fleshy fruits just under an inch in diameter. In habitat, spindle palm growing conditions include sandy, well-drained soil and full sun. They often cluster together naturally in a grove. These plants look amazing in a similar form in the landscape or as stand-alone specimens in containers or garden beds. Many states do not have the correct spindle palm growing conditions for outdoor plants, but they can perform well potted in the home interior or greenhouse.
Growing Spindle Palm Trees
As an outdoor plant, spindle palms are recommended for United States Department of Agriculture zone 10 and down to 9b. In areas with minimal frost, plant them in a large container on casters so you can move the palm to a protected area if a cold snap threatens. Container plants require good drainage, bright light, consistent moisture and annual fertilizing. The nutrients most often needed in larger amounts are potassium and magnesium. Potassium deficiency will exhibit by large orange spots on the fronds. Good spindle palm tree care recommends an annual fertilization with a high potassium ratio once per year in early spring. In ground plants should be planted with top soil or peat moss added to the hole. Growing spindle palm trees in a bright western or southern edge of the house can help protect them and provide the lighting experience they crave. Install them 4 feet away from the house to give the fronds room to grow.
How to Care for a Spindle Palm
Spindle palms are remarkably unfussy. Once established, they can tolerate brief periods of drought and saline conditions. They are not technically self-cleaning, but grow so slowly you will only occasionally need to prune off dead fronds. Protection from frost is a large part of the plant’s care. Make a frame around the tree with chicken wire and cover with frost barrier fabric or even an old blanket when cold threatens. The plants also benefit from several inches of organic mulch around the root zone. Just be careful to leave a couple of inches around the stem free of mulch to prevent moisture build up and fungal issues. Water once per week during the growing season but, otherwise, this stoic plant can tolerate quite a bit of neglect and still stand elegant sentry to your landscape.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月21日
An indication that there’s a problem with your beloved houseplant may be when a spider plant is sticky. Normally pest free, your first thought will likely be, “Why is my spider plant sticky?” Before you start blaming the kids for spilling something, take a look at the underside of the leaves.
Sticky Residue on Spider Plants
Sticky spider plant leaves are a signal that the piercing, sucking insect known as scale has come to live on your spider plant, making it sticky. There are different kinds of scale and all are invisible to the naked eye until they form colonies of many. When colonies form on spider plant leaves, a sticky residue remains. Colonies will be visible as small brown patches, usually underneath the leaves of the sticky spider plant. Sometimes scale insects appear as a white, cottony blob – mealybugs. The substance causing sticky leaves on spider plants is called honeydew. Sticky spider plant leaves may also be caused by aphids or spider mites. What you see when you check the underneath of leaves with sticky residue on spider plants may give you an indication of which pest you’re dealing with.
Treating Sticky Leaves on Spider Plant
There are various ways to get rid of the scale and other insects that cause sticky leaves on spider plants. Swabbing the leaves with a cotton swab dipped in alcohol is one way to treat them. This is a time consuming process, but effective when treatments are applied weekly. Drenching applications of insecticidal soap can also control the problem. You can make your own concoction of insecticidal soap to use when controlling pests that cause sticky spider plant leaves. Neem oil is also effective. Cover all parts of the plant, paying special attention to the underside of the leaves and the center of the spider plant. Fresh potting soil can sometimes help ease the pest problem when combined with treatment. Aphids and other pests are often attracted to the succulent new growth that comes from a regular routine of watering and fertilization. Withhold plant food and reduce watering to a minimum until you’ve cleared up the problem that is causing sticky spider plant leaves.
Now that you’ve learned the answer to, “Why is my spider plant sticky,” take the necessary steps to control the pests. Spider plants are resilient and will likely recover from this infestation. In the meantime, root the little plantlets that cascade from the container so you’ll always have great spider plants in your home or outdoor basket.
Sticky Residue on Spider Plants
Sticky spider plant leaves are a signal that the piercing, sucking insect known as scale has come to live on your spider plant, making it sticky. There are different kinds of scale and all are invisible to the naked eye until they form colonies of many. When colonies form on spider plant leaves, a sticky residue remains. Colonies will be visible as small brown patches, usually underneath the leaves of the sticky spider plant. Sometimes scale insects appear as a white, cottony blob – mealybugs. The substance causing sticky leaves on spider plants is called honeydew. Sticky spider plant leaves may also be caused by aphids or spider mites. What you see when you check the underneath of leaves with sticky residue on spider plants may give you an indication of which pest you’re dealing with.
Treating Sticky Leaves on Spider Plant
There are various ways to get rid of the scale and other insects that cause sticky leaves on spider plants. Swabbing the leaves with a cotton swab dipped in alcohol is one way to treat them. This is a time consuming process, but effective when treatments are applied weekly. Drenching applications of insecticidal soap can also control the problem. You can make your own concoction of insecticidal soap to use when controlling pests that cause sticky spider plant leaves. Neem oil is also effective. Cover all parts of the plant, paying special attention to the underside of the leaves and the center of the spider plant. Fresh potting soil can sometimes help ease the pest problem when combined with treatment. Aphids and other pests are often attracted to the succulent new growth that comes from a regular routine of watering and fertilization. Withhold plant food and reduce watering to a minimum until you’ve cleared up the problem that is causing sticky spider plant leaves.
Now that you’ve learned the answer to, “Why is my spider plant sticky,” take the necessary steps to control the pests. Spider plants are resilient and will likely recover from this infestation. In the meantime, root the little plantlets that cascade from the container so you’ll always have great spider plants in your home or outdoor basket.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月21日
If you’re looking to increase your collection of houseplants without spending any money, propagating spiderettes, (spider plant babies), from an existing plant is as easy as it gets. Even kids or brand new gardeners can easily learn how to root spider plantlets. Read on to learn more about propagating your spider plants.
Spider Plant Propagation
When you’re ready to propagate your spider plant babies, you have the option of rooting the plantlets by growing directly in soil or you can choose to root them in water.
Growing Plantlets from Spider Plants
There are a couple of ways to plant spider plant babies, and they’re both easy peasy. Look closely at the spiderettes dangling from your adult plant and you’ll see little knob-like protrusions and tiny roots on the bottom of each spiderette. Spider plant propagation simply involves planting the spiderette in a pot filled with any lightweight potting mix. Be sure the pot has drainage holes in the bottom. You can leave the baby attached to the parent plant until the new plant takes root, then separate it from the parent by snipping the runner. Alternatively, go ahead and separate the baby from the parent plant by snipping the runner immediately. Spiderettes will root easily either way, but if you have a hanging spider plant, the latter is the best way to go.
How to Root Spider Plantlets in Water
Planting spiderettes in potting soil is the easiest and quickest way to propagate spider plant babies. However, if you like, you can stick the spiderette in a glass of water for a week or two, then plant the rooted spiderette in a pot of soil. This is an unnecessary step, but some people enjoy rooting a new plant the old-fashioned way – in a jar on the kitchen windowsill.
Caring for Spider Plant Babies
If you want a thick, bushy plant, start several spider plant babies in the same pot. Similarly, if your adult spider plant isn’t as full as you would like, plant a couple of spiderettes alongside the mama plant. Water the fledgling spider babies as needed to keep the soil slightly moist, but never saturated, until healthy new growth indicates the plant has rooted. Your new spider plant is well on its way, and you can resume normal care.
Spider Plant Propagation
When you’re ready to propagate your spider plant babies, you have the option of rooting the plantlets by growing directly in soil or you can choose to root them in water.
Growing Plantlets from Spider Plants
There are a couple of ways to plant spider plant babies, and they’re both easy peasy. Look closely at the spiderettes dangling from your adult plant and you’ll see little knob-like protrusions and tiny roots on the bottom of each spiderette. Spider plant propagation simply involves planting the spiderette in a pot filled with any lightweight potting mix. Be sure the pot has drainage holes in the bottom. You can leave the baby attached to the parent plant until the new plant takes root, then separate it from the parent by snipping the runner. Alternatively, go ahead and separate the baby from the parent plant by snipping the runner immediately. Spiderettes will root easily either way, but if you have a hanging spider plant, the latter is the best way to go.
How to Root Spider Plantlets in Water
Planting spiderettes in potting soil is the easiest and quickest way to propagate spider plant babies. However, if you like, you can stick the spiderette in a glass of water for a week or two, then plant the rooted spiderette in a pot of soil. This is an unnecessary step, but some people enjoy rooting a new plant the old-fashioned way – in a jar on the kitchen windowsill.
Caring for Spider Plant Babies
If you want a thick, bushy plant, start several spider plant babies in the same pot. Similarly, if your adult spider plant isn’t as full as you would like, plant a couple of spiderettes alongside the mama plant. Water the fledgling spider babies as needed to keep the soil slightly moist, but never saturated, until healthy new growth indicates the plant has rooted. Your new spider plant is well on its way, and you can resume normal care.
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Michele Ondra：Thanks! I’ve been wondering how to do this.
文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月21日
Most interior gardeners are familiar with the charismatic spider plant. This classic houseplant produces numerous dangling clusters of leaves, resembling parachuting baby spiders. If you find your spider plant not producing babies like these, it might simply be due to the young age of the plant or cultural issues such as lighting. Don’t despair, as these types of spider plant problems won’t affect the overall health of the plant and can often be corrected with some simple tips. Chlorophytum comosum is one of the most shared houseplants due to the offsets it produces, which can be culled from the parent plant and started as separate spider plants. The attractive hanging offsets, or babies, occur when a mature plant is in the right conditions. The comment that “my spider plant has no babies” is a common theme in garden blogs. We will investigate possible reasons for this condition and some easy solutions to get your plant producing these aerial growths with whimsical appeal.
Age and No Babies on Spider Plants
It’s awkward to use the tale of the birds and the bees in mammalian relations to describe plant life cycles, but useful at the same time. Spider plants need to be old enough to have these spider-like growths. What age is appropriate for getting spiderettes on plants? Just as a mammal needs to be mature enough for reproduction, so too, must a plant. A newly sprouted seed of any type cannot be expected to produce fruit, seeds, reproductive vegetative growth or flowers. An offset that you have recently potted up should be considered a baby plant. It needs time to send out a rich network of roots and establish itself in its environment. That being said, there is no definitive time for getting spiderettes on plants. It can take years even in the best conditions and the best advice is patience.
Why is a Mature Spider Plant Not Producing Babies?
In the absence of an age issue, if it is several years old and you still see no babies on spider plant, you may want to examine the conditions in which it is growing. Spider plants produce those offsets from runners. These are aerial in a hanging basket which then suspend from the parent. Many plants reproduce vegetatively in this manner. Vinca is one plant that comes to mind. It sends out stolons, or runners, which root at the internodes and create carbon copies of the parent. Each can be divided away from the mature plant and become stand along representatives of the species. If no runners are present, then the foliar spiderettes cannot develop. It seems to be the opinion in many online forums that a spider plant needs to be root bound to form these offsets. A tightly planted container may be the key to a spider plant not producing babies. Make sure you ensure good drainage too, or root rot may become a problem.
Other Spider Plant Problems That Prevent Babies
Just as humans and other animals need appropriate food, water and living conditions to grow and flourish, spider plants have their own specialized environmental needs. Should my spider plant have no babies, I would first turn my attention to these circumstances. Chlorophytum comosum is an herbaceous flowering perennial native to parts of Africa. It requires light but should not receive bright direct sunlight. Spider plants need to be evenly moist and do not tolerate dry conditions. They may be offended by high concentrations of fluoride and other chemicals in drinking water, so try rain or distilled water to irrigate your plant. Temperatures of 65 to 75 degrees Fahrenheit (18-23 C.) will promote flowering and enhance the chance of runners and babies forming. Spider plants are heavy feeders. Use a good liquid houseplant food from spring to summer every two weeks. Spider plants are one of the easiest indoor plants to care for and should thrive with proper light, food and water.
Age and No Babies on Spider Plants
It’s awkward to use the tale of the birds and the bees in mammalian relations to describe plant life cycles, but useful at the same time. Spider plants need to be old enough to have these spider-like growths. What age is appropriate for getting spiderettes on plants? Just as a mammal needs to be mature enough for reproduction, so too, must a plant. A newly sprouted seed of any type cannot be expected to produce fruit, seeds, reproductive vegetative growth or flowers. An offset that you have recently potted up should be considered a baby plant. It needs time to send out a rich network of roots and establish itself in its environment. That being said, there is no definitive time for getting spiderettes on plants. It can take years even in the best conditions and the best advice is patience.
Why is a Mature Spider Plant Not Producing Babies?
In the absence of an age issue, if it is several years old and you still see no babies on spider plant, you may want to examine the conditions in which it is growing. Spider plants produce those offsets from runners. These are aerial in a hanging basket which then suspend from the parent. Many plants reproduce vegetatively in this manner. Vinca is one plant that comes to mind. It sends out stolons, or runners, which root at the internodes and create carbon copies of the parent. Each can be divided away from the mature plant and become stand along representatives of the species. If no runners are present, then the foliar spiderettes cannot develop. It seems to be the opinion in many online forums that a spider plant needs to be root bound to form these offsets. A tightly planted container may be the key to a spider plant not producing babies. Make sure you ensure good drainage too, or root rot may become a problem.
Other Spider Plant Problems That Prevent Babies
Just as humans and other animals need appropriate food, water and living conditions to grow and flourish, spider plants have their own specialized environmental needs. Should my spider plant have no babies, I would first turn my attention to these circumstances. Chlorophytum comosum is an herbaceous flowering perennial native to parts of Africa. It requires light but should not receive bright direct sunlight. Spider plants need to be evenly moist and do not tolerate dry conditions. They may be offended by high concentrations of fluoride and other chemicals in drinking water, so try rain or distilled water to irrigate your plant. Temperatures of 65 to 75 degrees Fahrenheit (18-23 C.) will promote flowering and enhance the chance of runners and babies forming. Spider plants are heavy feeders. Use a good liquid houseplant food from spring to summer every two weeks. Spider plants are one of the easiest indoor plants to care for and should thrive with proper light, food and water.
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