文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月19日
If you have one pitcher plant and you’d like more, you may be thinking of growing pitcher plants from seed taken from its spent blooms. Pitcher plant seed sowing is one of the best ways to reproduce the beautiful plant. But like the seeds of other carnivorous plants, they need special treatment to give them their best chance at growing. Read on for information about how to grow pitcher plants from seed.
How to Grow Pitcher Plants from Seed
If you are growing pitcher plants from seeds, you have to provide them with a lot of humidity to get them to germinate. Experts recommend that pitcher plant growing take place in transparent pots that have lids to keep in the moisture. It is also possible to use regular pots with glass or plastic domes over them to serve the same purpose.
Most growers recommend that you use pure peat moss as a growing medium for pitcher plant seeds to be sure that it is sterile and won’t mold. You may also dust the seeds with a fungicide beforehand to control mold. You can mix in a little silica sand, or washed river sand, and perlite if you have some handy.
Stratification for Pitcher Plant Seeds
Pitcher plant seed growing requires stratification. This means that the seeds grow best when put in a cold location for several months before they germinate to reproduce the chilly winters of their native lands. Moisten the planting medium first, then sow pitcher plant seeds by placing them on the medium surface. Place the pots in a warm area for a few days, then in the refrigerator for 6 to 8 weeks. After the appropriate amount of stratification time, move the entire pitcher plant seed growing operation to a warmer area with bright light. If you are growing pitcher plants from seeds, you have to be patient. Allow the pitcher plant seeds all the time they need to germinate.
Germination for carnivorous plants like the pitcher takes far longer than germination of flowers or garden vegetables. They rarely germinate within a few weeks. Many times they take months to start sprouting. Keep the soil moist and the plant in bright light, then try to forget about the seeds until you see the pitcher plant seed growing.
How to Grow Pitcher Plants from Seed
If you are growing pitcher plants from seeds, you have to provide them with a lot of humidity to get them to germinate. Experts recommend that pitcher plant growing take place in transparent pots that have lids to keep in the moisture. It is also possible to use regular pots with glass or plastic domes over them to serve the same purpose.
Most growers recommend that you use pure peat moss as a growing medium for pitcher plant seeds to be sure that it is sterile and won’t mold. You may also dust the seeds with a fungicide beforehand to control mold. You can mix in a little silica sand, or washed river sand, and perlite if you have some handy.
Stratification for Pitcher Plant Seeds
Pitcher plant seed growing requires stratification. This means that the seeds grow best when put in a cold location for several months before they germinate to reproduce the chilly winters of their native lands. Moisten the planting medium first, then sow pitcher plant seeds by placing them on the medium surface. Place the pots in a warm area for a few days, then in the refrigerator for 6 to 8 weeks. After the appropriate amount of stratification time, move the entire pitcher plant seed growing operation to a warmer area with bright light. If you are growing pitcher plants from seeds, you have to be patient. Allow the pitcher plant seeds all the time they need to germinate.
Germination for carnivorous plants like the pitcher takes far longer than germination of flowers or garden vegetables. They rarely germinate within a few weeks. Many times they take months to start sprouting. Keep the soil moist and the plant in bright light, then try to forget about the seeds until you see the pitcher plant seed growing.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月19日
Some indoor plant enthusiasts think pitcher plants are easy to grow, while others believe the carnivorous plants are headaches waiting to happen. The truth is somewhere in the middle, and for the most part, pitcher plants are happy if you can meet their needs for water, light and humidity. If you’re having carnivorous plant problems, such as a pitcher plant not making pitchers, it may require some troubleshooting to determine the problem. Read on for helpful tips.
My Pitcher Plant Has No Pitchers!
How to get pitchers on pitcher plants? Be patient, as pitcher plants take time to develop the first pitcher. Oftentimes, if the plant looks healthy and the tendrils are developing, a little time is all it needs. You’ll probably notice pitchers before you know it!
How to Get Pitchers on Pitcher Plants
If your plant doesn’t seem to be thriving in addition to not developing pitchers, the following tips will help with fixing pitcher plant problems: Light – Most pitcher plant varieties need at least three to four hours of bright sunlight per day. Failure to produce pitchers is an indication that the plant isn’t receiving adequate light. However, although the light should be bright, it should be indirect and not too intense. If the leaves are turning yellow, the plant may be getting a little too much light. Experimentation will help you determine the right amount of light for your plant. Water and potting mix – Pitcher plants don’t appreciate the minerals and additives in tap water. If possible, give them only filtered or distilled water. Better yet, collect rainwater and use it to water your pitcher plant. Water the pitcher plant whenever the top of the potting mix feels dry. The potting mix should never be bone dry, nor should it be soggy or waterlogged. Use a well-drained, low-nutrient potting mix such as a mix consisting of half sphagnum moss and half perlite, vermiculite or lava rock. Humidity – Although requirements vary depending on the species, most types of pitcher plants prefer relatively high humidity; excessively dry air can cause the plant not to develop pitchers. Mist the plant regularly or increase the humidity in your home with a humidifier. An easy way to increase the humidity around the plant is to place the pot on a humidity tray. Just place a layer of pebbles on a tray, then set the pot on the pebbles. Add just enough water to keep the pebbles wet, but be sure the pot is sitting on the pebbles but not standing in water. The plant will rot if water seeps up through the drainage hole.
Feeding – Pitcher plants require very little supplemental fertilizer, but they do benefit from a light feeding of an acidic fertilizer. Mix 1/8 teaspoon of acid fertilizer with 1 quart of water, or use a fertilizer formulated for orchids. Avoid over-feeding. Too much fertilizer can create a lush plant with no pitchers.
My Pitcher Plant Has No Pitchers!
How to get pitchers on pitcher plants? Be patient, as pitcher plants take time to develop the first pitcher. Oftentimes, if the plant looks healthy and the tendrils are developing, a little time is all it needs. You’ll probably notice pitchers before you know it!
How to Get Pitchers on Pitcher Plants
If your plant doesn’t seem to be thriving in addition to not developing pitchers, the following tips will help with fixing pitcher plant problems: Light – Most pitcher plant varieties need at least three to four hours of bright sunlight per day. Failure to produce pitchers is an indication that the plant isn’t receiving adequate light. However, although the light should be bright, it should be indirect and not too intense. If the leaves are turning yellow, the plant may be getting a little too much light. Experimentation will help you determine the right amount of light for your plant. Water and potting mix – Pitcher plants don’t appreciate the minerals and additives in tap water. If possible, give them only filtered or distilled water. Better yet, collect rainwater and use it to water your pitcher plant. Water the pitcher plant whenever the top of the potting mix feels dry. The potting mix should never be bone dry, nor should it be soggy or waterlogged. Use a well-drained, low-nutrient potting mix such as a mix consisting of half sphagnum moss and half perlite, vermiculite or lava rock. Humidity – Although requirements vary depending on the species, most types of pitcher plants prefer relatively high humidity; excessively dry air can cause the plant not to develop pitchers. Mist the plant regularly or increase the humidity in your home with a humidifier. An easy way to increase the humidity around the plant is to place the pot on a humidity tray. Just place a layer of pebbles on a tray, then set the pot on the pebbles. Add just enough water to keep the pebbles wet, but be sure the pot is sitting on the pebbles but not standing in water. The plant will rot if water seeps up through the drainage hole.
Feeding – Pitcher plants require very little supplemental fertilizer, but they do benefit from a light feeding of an acidic fertilizer. Mix 1/8 teaspoon of acid fertilizer with 1 quart of water, or use a fertilizer formulated for orchids. Avoid over-feeding. Too much fertilizer can create a lush plant with no pitchers.
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Misspgy：You Are brave
文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月19日
Pitcher plants are interesting and beautiful carnivorous plants that rely primarily on insect pests for sustenance. Do pitcher plants bloom? They certainly do, and pitcher plant flowers are just as fascinating as the colorful, mysterious pitchers. Read on for more pitcher plant (Sarracenia) flower information. 
Pitcher Plant Flowers
Have you noticed something different about your pitcher plant or one from someone else’s garden – something appearing somewhat like a flower? Then the plant is blooming, or getting ready to.
Flowers of pitcher plants make an appearance in a two- to three-week span of time in April or May, depending on the climate and the specific plant type. The flowers, which look much like upside-down umbrellas, rise above the pitchers, a functional design that serves to protect friendly pollinators from inadvertently getting caught in the pitcher.
Flowers of pitcher plants may be purple, red, burgundy, white, yellow or pink, which also varies depending on the type. In some cases, pitcher plant flower petals are multi-colored, and often, pitcher plant blooming is made even more dramatic by the contrasting stigma. Sometimes, the colorful blooms are sweetly scented, but may, on the other hand, have a less pleasant odor reminiscent of cat urine. Unlike the pitchers, which are deadly to visiting insects, pitcher plant flowers are perfectly harmless. In fact, the flowers function like regular flowers by providing insects (mostly bees) with nectar and pollen.
The spent flowers eventually shrivel, form seed capsules and scatter seeds for the production of brand new plants. One seed capsule can release as many as 300 tiny, papery seeds. Germination of a new pitcher plant from seed generally is a slow process with new flowers or pitchers developing after three to six years. Now that you know a little more about the flowering in pitcher plants, you have yet another reason to grow these wonderful, fun plants.
Pitcher Plant Flowers
Have you noticed something different about your pitcher plant or one from someone else’s garden – something appearing somewhat like a flower? Then the plant is blooming, or getting ready to.
Flowers of pitcher plants make an appearance in a two- to three-week span of time in April or May, depending on the climate and the specific plant type. The flowers, which look much like upside-down umbrellas, rise above the pitchers, a functional design that serves to protect friendly pollinators from inadvertently getting caught in the pitcher.
Flowers of pitcher plants may be purple, red, burgundy, white, yellow or pink, which also varies depending on the type. In some cases, pitcher plant flower petals are multi-colored, and often, pitcher plant blooming is made even more dramatic by the contrasting stigma. Sometimes, the colorful blooms are sweetly scented, but may, on the other hand, have a less pleasant odor reminiscent of cat urine. Unlike the pitchers, which are deadly to visiting insects, pitcher plant flowers are perfectly harmless. In fact, the flowers function like regular flowers by providing insects (mostly bees) with nectar and pollen.
The spent flowers eventually shrivel, form seed capsules and scatter seeds for the production of brand new plants. One seed capsule can release as many as 300 tiny, papery seeds. Germination of a new pitcher plant from seed generally is a slow process with new flowers or pitchers developing after three to six years. Now that you know a little more about the flowering in pitcher plants, you have yet another reason to grow these wonderful, fun plants.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月19日
Pitcher plants are exotic, fascinating plants, but they’re prone to many of the same problems that affect any other plant, including pests. If you’re wondering how to get rid of bugs on carnivorous plants, keep in mind that pitcher plant pest control can be tricky. Read on to find out why.
Pests of Pitcher Plants
Common pitcher plant problems include pests; and if you’re dealing with pitcher plant pests, you have a challenge on your hands. For example, beneficial insects that help control pests on most plants aren’t always very helpful. Why? Because the pitcher plant may dine on the helpful bugs! If that’s not bad enough, pitcher plants are sensitive to chemicals. Even non-toxic insecticidal soap spray may damage (or kill) pitcher plants.
So, how to get rid of bugs on carnivorous plants? Unless you really know what you’re doing, it’s best to remove pests manually. Here are a few of the most common offenders, along with some possible solutions:
Mealybugs – Mealybugs are tiny, sap-sucking insects with a waxy, cottony coating. They usually gather at the joints of stems and leaves. A cotton swab dipped in rubbing alcohol is often an effective solution. Alternatively, you can remove the pests with a toothpick. Caterpillars – Larval moths and butterflies are big and it’s hard to miss the ragged, chewed holes in the leaves. This one is easy – just pick the caterpillar pests off the plant and drop them in a bucket of soapy water. Fungal gnats – Tiny flying gnats are often a problem for pitcher plants grown indoors. Although they are tremendous nuisances, fungus gnats usually aren’t harmful and, in fact, provide a healthy snack for the plants. However, it’s good to keep the pests in check because serious damage may result when the pitcher plant pests lay eggs in the soil. Many gardeners find that a thin layer of coarse horticultural sand over the surface of the potting soil discourages egg laying.
Slugs and snails – These slimy pests are the bane of outdoor plants, and pitcher plants are no exception. There are numerous ways to control slugs and snails, and you may need to experiment to determine which methods work best for you. For example, limit mulch, which provides a handy hiding place. Similarly, keep the area free of leaves and other debris. You may have good luck with a non-toxic slug bait, or a beer trap. It may be unpleasant and time consuming, but picking the pests off the plants by hand is a good way to go. Pick the slugs in evening or early morning (Tips: Use a flashlight. Wear gloves!). Thrips – Tiny thrips are hard to see, but they create havoc when they suck the juices from pitcher plants. The leaves often become dry and crisp, and you may notice tiny, sticky black spots. Some gardeners have good luck with systemic insecticides, but again, use chemicals with extreme care. Sticky traps are one non-toxic option. Scale – Another sap-sucking insect, scale is a tiny pest that hides under a hard, waxy shell. The shells are relatively easy to scrape off with a toothpick or soft toothbrush. Aphids – You might think pitcher plant would turn tiny green aphids into a hearty lunch, but aphids are apparently not attracted to the plentiful pests. Neem oil may be effective, but use the substance with caution. Some gardeners prefer pyrethrum-based insecticides, although others report that the substance killed their plant. The best recourse may be to simply squish the pests or pick them off with tweezers. Keep in mind that unhealthy plants are more prone to insect attacks. Water and fertilizer properly and make sure your plant has adequate sunlight and air circulation.
Pests of Pitcher Plants
Common pitcher plant problems include pests; and if you’re dealing with pitcher plant pests, you have a challenge on your hands. For example, beneficial insects that help control pests on most plants aren’t always very helpful. Why? Because the pitcher plant may dine on the helpful bugs! If that’s not bad enough, pitcher plants are sensitive to chemicals. Even non-toxic insecticidal soap spray may damage (or kill) pitcher plants.
So, how to get rid of bugs on carnivorous plants? Unless you really know what you’re doing, it’s best to remove pests manually. Here are a few of the most common offenders, along with some possible solutions:
Mealybugs – Mealybugs are tiny, sap-sucking insects with a waxy, cottony coating. They usually gather at the joints of stems and leaves. A cotton swab dipped in rubbing alcohol is often an effective solution. Alternatively, you can remove the pests with a toothpick. Caterpillars – Larval moths and butterflies are big and it’s hard to miss the ragged, chewed holes in the leaves. This one is easy – just pick the caterpillar pests off the plant and drop them in a bucket of soapy water. Fungal gnats – Tiny flying gnats are often a problem for pitcher plants grown indoors. Although they are tremendous nuisances, fungus gnats usually aren’t harmful and, in fact, provide a healthy snack for the plants. However, it’s good to keep the pests in check because serious damage may result when the pitcher plant pests lay eggs in the soil. Many gardeners find that a thin layer of coarse horticultural sand over the surface of the potting soil discourages egg laying.
Slugs and snails – These slimy pests are the bane of outdoor plants, and pitcher plants are no exception. There are numerous ways to control slugs and snails, and you may need to experiment to determine which methods work best for you. For example, limit mulch, which provides a handy hiding place. Similarly, keep the area free of leaves and other debris. You may have good luck with a non-toxic slug bait, or a beer trap. It may be unpleasant and time consuming, but picking the pests off the plants by hand is a good way to go. Pick the slugs in evening or early morning (Tips: Use a flashlight. Wear gloves!). Thrips – Tiny thrips are hard to see, but they create havoc when they suck the juices from pitcher plants. The leaves often become dry and crisp, and you may notice tiny, sticky black spots. Some gardeners have good luck with systemic insecticides, but again, use chemicals with extreme care. Sticky traps are one non-toxic option. Scale – Another sap-sucking insect, scale is a tiny pest that hides under a hard, waxy shell. The shells are relatively easy to scrape off with a toothpick or soft toothbrush. Aphids – You might think pitcher plant would turn tiny green aphids into a hearty lunch, but aphids are apparently not attracted to the plentiful pests. Neem oil may be effective, but use the substance with caution. Some gardeners prefer pyrethrum-based insecticides, although others report that the substance killed their plant. The best recourse may be to simply squish the pests or pick them off with tweezers. Keep in mind that unhealthy plants are more prone to insect attacks. Water and fertilizer properly and make sure your plant has adequate sunlight and air circulation.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月19日
Nepenthes, often called pitcher plants, are native to tropical regions in South East Asia, India, Madagascar and Australia. They get their common name from the swellings in the mid-veins of the leaves that look like small pitchers. Nepenthes pitcher plants are often grown as houseplants in cooler climates. If you own one, you may see your pitcher plant leaves turning red. There are various possible reasons for a pitcher plant with red leaves; some require fixing, some do not.
Nepenthes Pitcher Plants
Nepenthes pitcher plants use their pitchers to attract insects, not for pollination but for nutrition. Insects are attracted to the pitchers by their nectar secretions and coloration. The rim and inner walls of the leaf swelling are slippery, causing visiting insects to slide into the pitcher. They get trapped in the digestive fluid, and absorbed by the nepenthes pitcher plants for their nutrients.
Pitcher Plant with Red Leaves
The standard color for mature pitcher plant leaves is green. If you see your pitcher plant leaves turning red, it may or may not signal a problem. If the pitcher plant leaves turning red are young leaves, the coloration can be perfectly normal. New leaves often grow in with a distinct reddish tinge. If, on the other hand, you see mature pitcher plant leaves turning red, it can be a cause for concern. You can determine whether a leaf is mature or new by its placement on the vine. Read on for information about fixing a nepenthes with red leaves.
Fixing a Nepenthes with Red Leaves
Too Much Light
Pitcher plants with red leaves can signal “sunburn,” caused by too much light. They generally require bright light, but not too much direct sun. Indoor plants can thrive with plant lights as long as they are broad spectrum and kept sufficiently far away to prevent overheating or scorching. Too much light can cause the leaves facing the light to turn red. Fix this problem by moving the plant farther from the light source.
Too Little Phosphorous
If your pitcher plant leaves become deep red in autumn, it can indicate inadequate phosphorus. Carnivorous nepenthes pitcher plants get phosphorus from the insects they attract and digest. These plants use phosphorus from insect meals to augment the green chlorophyll in its leaves for photosynthesis. A pitcher plant with red leaves may not have consumed enough insects to do this. One solution is to add small insects, like flies, to your mature pitchers.
Nepenthes Pitcher Plants
Nepenthes pitcher plants use their pitchers to attract insects, not for pollination but for nutrition. Insects are attracted to the pitchers by their nectar secretions and coloration. The rim and inner walls of the leaf swelling are slippery, causing visiting insects to slide into the pitcher. They get trapped in the digestive fluid, and absorbed by the nepenthes pitcher plants for their nutrients.
Pitcher Plant with Red Leaves
The standard color for mature pitcher plant leaves is green. If you see your pitcher plant leaves turning red, it may or may not signal a problem. If the pitcher plant leaves turning red are young leaves, the coloration can be perfectly normal. New leaves often grow in with a distinct reddish tinge. If, on the other hand, you see mature pitcher plant leaves turning red, it can be a cause for concern. You can determine whether a leaf is mature or new by its placement on the vine. Read on for information about fixing a nepenthes with red leaves.
Fixing a Nepenthes with Red Leaves
Too Much Light
Pitcher plants with red leaves can signal “sunburn,” caused by too much light. They generally require bright light, but not too much direct sun. Indoor plants can thrive with plant lights as long as they are broad spectrum and kept sufficiently far away to prevent overheating or scorching. Too much light can cause the leaves facing the light to turn red. Fix this problem by moving the plant farther from the light source.
Too Little Phosphorous
If your pitcher plant leaves become deep red in autumn, it can indicate inadequate phosphorus. Carnivorous nepenthes pitcher plants get phosphorus from the insects they attract and digest. These plants use phosphorus from insect meals to augment the green chlorophyll in its leaves for photosynthesis. A pitcher plant with red leaves may not have consumed enough insects to do this. One solution is to add small insects, like flies, to your mature pitchers.
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Misspgy：Such an AMAZING plant plus all your pictures are so Q
文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月19日
A pitcher plant isn’t for gardeners who like to take home an interesting plant, set it on the windowsill, and hope they remember to water it now and then. It’s a plant with specific needs, and it lets you know with alarming clarity when those needs aren’t being met. This article explains what to do when you find your pitcher plant’s leaves turning black.
Why are Pitcher Plants Turning Black?
When pitcher plant (Nepenthes) leaves are turning black, it is usually the result of shock or a sign that the plant is going into dormancy. Something as simple as a change in conditions the plant experiences when you bring it home from the nursery can cause shock. A pitcher plant can also go into shock when any of its needs aren’t being met. Here are some things to check:
Is it getting the right amount of light? Pitcher plants need at least 8 hours of direct sunlight every day. It will thrive outdoors in hot, humid climates. Does it have enough water? Pitcher plants like to be thoroughly wet. Set the pot in a shallow dish and keep an inch or two of water in the dish at all times. Not just any water will do. Pitcher plants need filtered or purified water. Are you feeding your plant? If you set it outside, it will attract its own food. Indoors, you’ll have to drop a cricket or mealworm down the pitcher from time to time. You can buy crickets and mealworms at a bait shop or a pet store.
Here’s another tip to help you avoid shock (and black pitcher plant leaves): leave it in the pot it came in. It will be fine for a few years. Transplanting a pitcher plant into a new pot is an advanced skill, and you should take lots of time to get to get to know your plant first. If the pot is unattractive, set it inside another pot.
Dormant Pitcher Plant with Black Leaves
You may occasionally see dormant pitcher plants with black leaves, but it’s even more likely that the plant is dead. Pitcher plants go dormant in fall. First, the pitcher turns brown and may die back to the ground. You may also lose some leaves. It’s hard for beginners to tell the difference between dormancy and death, but remember that tinkering with the plant and sticking your finger into the soil to feel the roots can kill it. It’s best to just wait it out and see if the plant comes back.
You can help your plant survive dormancy by keeping it cool and giving it lots of sunlight. You can leave it outdoors if your winters are mild—just remember to bring it in if a frost threatens. Providing cool, well-lit conditions in cold climates is more of a challenge, but if all goes well, you’ll be rewarded with flowers in the spring.
Why are Pitcher Plants Turning Black?
When pitcher plant (Nepenthes) leaves are turning black, it is usually the result of shock or a sign that the plant is going into dormancy. Something as simple as a change in conditions the plant experiences when you bring it home from the nursery can cause shock. A pitcher plant can also go into shock when any of its needs aren’t being met. Here are some things to check:
Is it getting the right amount of light? Pitcher plants need at least 8 hours of direct sunlight every day. It will thrive outdoors in hot, humid climates. Does it have enough water? Pitcher plants like to be thoroughly wet. Set the pot in a shallow dish and keep an inch or two of water in the dish at all times. Not just any water will do. Pitcher plants need filtered or purified water. Are you feeding your plant? If you set it outside, it will attract its own food. Indoors, you’ll have to drop a cricket or mealworm down the pitcher from time to time. You can buy crickets and mealworms at a bait shop or a pet store.
Here’s another tip to help you avoid shock (and black pitcher plant leaves): leave it in the pot it came in. It will be fine for a few years. Transplanting a pitcher plant into a new pot is an advanced skill, and you should take lots of time to get to get to know your plant first. If the pot is unattractive, set it inside another pot.
Dormant Pitcher Plant with Black Leaves
You may occasionally see dormant pitcher plants with black leaves, but it’s even more likely that the plant is dead. Pitcher plants go dormant in fall. First, the pitcher turns brown and may die back to the ground. You may also lose some leaves. It’s hard for beginners to tell the difference between dormancy and death, but remember that tinkering with the plant and sticking your finger into the soil to feel the roots can kill it. It’s best to just wait it out and see if the plant comes back.
You can help your plant survive dormancy by keeping it cool and giving it lots of sunlight. You can leave it outdoors if your winters are mild—just remember to bring it in if a frost threatens. Providing cool, well-lit conditions in cold climates is more of a challenge, but if all goes well, you’ll be rewarded with flowers in the spring.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月19日
Pitcher plants have the appearance of an exotic, rare plant but they are actually native to parts of the United States. They grow in parts of Mississippi and Louisiana where soils are poor and nutrient levels must be acquired from other sources. The plants are carnivorous and have fleshy funnels or tubes that function as traps for insects and small animals. Growing pitcher plants as indoor plants is common, but raising them outdoors requires a little know-how. Learn how to grow a pitcher plant for an interesting conversation piece in the home interior or exterior garden.
Types of Pitcher Plants
There are around 80 types of pitcher plants found in the genus names Sarracenia, Nepenthes and Darlingtonia. Not all of these are suitable for outdoor growing, as Nepenthes are tropical pitcher plants, but purple pitcher plant (Sarracenia purpurea) has a zonal tolerance of 2 to 9 and is exceptionally adaptable to a wide range of areas. The northern pitcher plant is another name for the purple type and grows wild in Canada. It is suited for temperate to cool regions. Yellow pitcher plant (Sarracenia flava) is found in Texas and boggy parts of Florida. Parrot pitcher (Sarracenia psittacina) and the green spotted pitcher (syn. yellow pitcher plant) are warm season plants. Both are found on the endangered species list and are not available for sale. They should not be harvested from the wild either. Cobra pitcher plants (Darlingtonia californica) are native only to extreme northern California and southern Oregon. They are also more difficult to grow. Growing pitcher plants should start with a species that is native to your region or adaptable to the climate where you live.
How to Grow a Pitcher Plant
Growing pitcher plants is easy as long as you pay attention to some key items. Pitcher plant’s unusual shape and carnivorous habit are the result of nutrient deficiencies in their native soil. The regions where they grow are nitrogen deprived so the plant catches insects to harvest their nitrogen. Growing pitcher plants outdoors and pitcher plant care starts with the site and soil. They do not need rich organic soil but do need a medium that drains well. Potted pitcher plants need to be in well-drained soils. Use any type of pot for indoor plants and provide a low fertility mixture in which the plants will grow. For instance, the potted pitcher plant thrives in a mixture of peat moss, bark and vermiculite. The pot can be small and they can even do well in a terrarium. Outdoor specimens live in slightly acidic soils. Pitcher plants must be kept wet and can even grow in water gardens. The plants need boggy, moist soil and will perform well at the margins of a pond or bog garden. Pitcher plants thrive in full sun to light shade.
Care of Pitcher Plants
Caring for pitcher plants is minimal. The best temperature for pitcher plants that are grown inside is between 60 and 70 F. (16-21 C.). Indoor plants should be fertilized at the start of the growing season with a good orchid food and every month until fall. Most of the plant’s nutrient needs come from the insects they catch in the pitcher shaped organs. Because of this, the care of pitcher plants outdoors does not require much fertilization. Outdoor plants will naturally lose some of the pitcher shaped leaves. Cut them off as they die back. New leaves will form from the rosette base. Pitcher plant care also includes protecting plants in the ground from freezes by mounding mulch around the base of the rosette.
Types of Pitcher Plants
There are around 80 types of pitcher plants found in the genus names Sarracenia, Nepenthes and Darlingtonia. Not all of these are suitable for outdoor growing, as Nepenthes are tropical pitcher plants, but purple pitcher plant (Sarracenia purpurea) has a zonal tolerance of 2 to 9 and is exceptionally adaptable to a wide range of areas. The northern pitcher plant is another name for the purple type and grows wild in Canada. It is suited for temperate to cool regions. Yellow pitcher plant (Sarracenia flava) is found in Texas and boggy parts of Florida. Parrot pitcher (Sarracenia psittacina) and the green spotted pitcher (syn. yellow pitcher plant) are warm season plants. Both are found on the endangered species list and are not available for sale. They should not be harvested from the wild either. Cobra pitcher plants (Darlingtonia californica) are native only to extreme northern California and southern Oregon. They are also more difficult to grow. Growing pitcher plants should start with a species that is native to your region or adaptable to the climate where you live.
How to Grow a Pitcher Plant
Growing pitcher plants is easy as long as you pay attention to some key items. Pitcher plant’s unusual shape and carnivorous habit are the result of nutrient deficiencies in their native soil. The regions where they grow are nitrogen deprived so the plant catches insects to harvest their nitrogen. Growing pitcher plants outdoors and pitcher plant care starts with the site and soil. They do not need rich organic soil but do need a medium that drains well. Potted pitcher plants need to be in well-drained soils. Use any type of pot for indoor plants and provide a low fertility mixture in which the plants will grow. For instance, the potted pitcher plant thrives in a mixture of peat moss, bark and vermiculite. The pot can be small and they can even do well in a terrarium. Outdoor specimens live in slightly acidic soils. Pitcher plants must be kept wet and can even grow in water gardens. The plants need boggy, moist soil and will perform well at the margins of a pond or bog garden. Pitcher plants thrive in full sun to light shade.
Care of Pitcher Plants
Caring for pitcher plants is minimal. The best temperature for pitcher plants that are grown inside is between 60 and 70 F. (16-21 C.). Indoor plants should be fertilized at the start of the growing season with a good orchid food and every month until fall. Most of the plant’s nutrient needs come from the insects they catch in the pitcher shaped organs. Because of this, the care of pitcher plants outdoors does not require much fertilization. Outdoor plants will naturally lose some of the pitcher shaped leaves. Cut them off as they die back. New leaves will form from the rosette base. Pitcher plant care also includes protecting plants in the ground from freezes by mounding mulch around the base of the rosette.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月19日
The piggyback plant is a notoriously easy to care for houseplant. A native to western North America, the piggyback plant can be found from northern California on into Alaska. Piggyback plant care is minimal whether grown out in the garden or indoors.
Piggyback Houseplant Info
The piggyback plant’s scientific name, Tomiea menziesii is derived from its botanical discoverers—Dr. William Fraser Tokmie (1830-1886), a Scottish physician working for the Hudson Bay Company at Fort Vancouver, and his colleague, Dr. Archibald Menzies (1754-1842), a naval surgeon by trade and botanist who was a great collector of North American plants. A novel feature of the piggyback plant is its means of propagation. Its common name may give you a hint. Piggybacks develop buds at the base of each leaf where it meets the leaf stalk (petiole). New plants develop a “piggyback” style off the parent leaf, forcing it to bend under the weight and touch the ground. The new piggyback will then develop roots and become a new separate plant. To propagate at home, simply push a leaf into some soil medium where it will easily root.
Growing a Piggyback
When the piggyback is found in its natural habitat, it is an evergreen that prefers moist cool areas protected from overly bright sunlight. This tiny plant (under a foot in height) is amazingly resilient and does well as a perennial in many zones planted in a shady location. The piggyback plant has an astounding tendency to spread outdoors and soon creates a significant ground covering. The stems of this plant grow below or just at the surface of the soil. The star-shaped leaves seem to spring from the soil medium. Grown outside, the evergreen leaves tend to become somewhat straggly looking by spring, but new foliage rapidly fills in. The usual piggyback plant has pleasing light green leaves, but the variety Tolmiea Menziesii variagata (Taff’s Gold) has mottled hues of yellow and green creating a mosaic of patterns. Piggyback blooms are tiny purplish blossoms that flower on tall stalks, which shoot up from the foliage. The piggyback does not usually bloom when used as a houseplant but will make lovely dense hanging or potted plants.
How to Care for Piggyback Indoors
Whether using piggyback plants in a hanging basket or pot, place them in an area of indirect bright, moderate or low light. An east or west exposure is best. Keep the soil evenly moist. Check daily and water only when necessary. Do not let your piggyback houseplant sit in water. Fertilize piggyback plants each month between May and September with a liquid fertilizer, following the instructions of the manufacturer. Thereafter, feed the piggyback every six to eight weeks for the remainder of the year. In May, you can move the plant outside for the summer, making sure to bring it back inside in early September. This extremely tolerant plant will survive an array of temperatures, but prefers a temperature above 70 F. (21 C.) during the day and 50 to 60 F. (10-16 C.) at night. Lastly, while the piggyback can survive almost any condition that would kill most other plants, it’s no match for deer. Deer find the piggyback plant delicious; however, they usually only munch on them when other food is scarce. This is another reason why growing a piggyback plant indoors is preferable.
Piggyback Houseplant Info
The piggyback plant’s scientific name, Tomiea menziesii is derived from its botanical discoverers—Dr. William Fraser Tokmie (1830-1886), a Scottish physician working for the Hudson Bay Company at Fort Vancouver, and his colleague, Dr. Archibald Menzies (1754-1842), a naval surgeon by trade and botanist who was a great collector of North American plants. A novel feature of the piggyback plant is its means of propagation. Its common name may give you a hint. Piggybacks develop buds at the base of each leaf where it meets the leaf stalk (petiole). New plants develop a “piggyback” style off the parent leaf, forcing it to bend under the weight and touch the ground. The new piggyback will then develop roots and become a new separate plant. To propagate at home, simply push a leaf into some soil medium where it will easily root.
Growing a Piggyback
When the piggyback is found in its natural habitat, it is an evergreen that prefers moist cool areas protected from overly bright sunlight. This tiny plant (under a foot in height) is amazingly resilient and does well as a perennial in many zones planted in a shady location. The piggyback plant has an astounding tendency to spread outdoors and soon creates a significant ground covering. The stems of this plant grow below or just at the surface of the soil. The star-shaped leaves seem to spring from the soil medium. Grown outside, the evergreen leaves tend to become somewhat straggly looking by spring, but new foliage rapidly fills in. The usual piggyback plant has pleasing light green leaves, but the variety Tolmiea Menziesii variagata (Taff’s Gold) has mottled hues of yellow and green creating a mosaic of patterns. Piggyback blooms are tiny purplish blossoms that flower on tall stalks, which shoot up from the foliage. The piggyback does not usually bloom when used as a houseplant but will make lovely dense hanging or potted plants.
How to Care for Piggyback Indoors
Whether using piggyback plants in a hanging basket or pot, place them in an area of indirect bright, moderate or low light. An east or west exposure is best. Keep the soil evenly moist. Check daily and water only when necessary. Do not let your piggyback houseplant sit in water. Fertilize piggyback plants each month between May and September with a liquid fertilizer, following the instructions of the manufacturer. Thereafter, feed the piggyback every six to eight weeks for the remainder of the year. In May, you can move the plant outside for the summer, making sure to bring it back inside in early September. This extremely tolerant plant will survive an array of temperatures, but prefers a temperature above 70 F. (21 C.) during the day and 50 to 60 F. (10-16 C.) at night. Lastly, while the piggyback can survive almost any condition that would kill most other plants, it’s no match for deer. Deer find the piggyback plant delicious; however, they usually only munch on them when other food is scarce. This is another reason why growing a piggyback plant indoors is preferable.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月19日
Growing Persian violet indoors can add a splash of color and interest to the home. These easy to care for plants will reward you with beautiful blooms when given optimal conditions. Read on for more about Persian violet plant care.
What is a Persian Violet?
Persian violet (Exacum affine), or Exacum Persian violet, is an attractive perennial with bluish or white star-shaped flowers and shiny green leaves. These plants can be grown indoors, but they also flourish outdoors in USDA plant hardiness zones 5-11. This violet is usually purchased in full bloom and the flowers are evenly spaced over a rounded ball of foliage. The Persian violet blooms for about three or four months; after that, it can be difficult to get it to bloom again. A good thought to have with this plant is to enjoy it while you can!
Growing Persian Violets Indoors
The care of Persian violet houseplants is relatively easy. The best thing to do is to buy a plant that has many unopened buds. This way, you will get to enjoy each blooming flower. The Persian violet loves bright light, but not direct light, so it would be best to keep the plant near a window. They enjoy cooler rooms and higher humidity. Doing this will keep the flowers blooming for three to four months. Keep the soil moist and be careful not to water it too much; this will cause rotting of the roots. Root rot is the most common problem with these plants. If it should happen, you will have to discard the plant. A sign that your Persian violet has root rot is wilting of the leaves. If you leave dried flowers on the plant, they will start to create seeds. Should this happen, it will shorten the life span of the plant. To avoid this, pop off the dead flower heads as soon as you notice them.
Persian Violet Plant Care After Blooming
Once your Persian violet has lost all its blooms and the foliage turns yellow, it is moving into the dormant stage. Stop watering the plant and place it in a cool room with moderate light. The leaves will eventually dry out. Complete drying takes approximately two months. When this happens, remove the tuber and transplant it in a pot that is one size bigger. Fill the pot with peat moss potting mixture and place the tuber in the soil so that the top half sticks out. Do not water the tuber until leaves appear next season. When you see new growth, place your Persian violet near a window. The plant should bloom again, but the flowers may be smaller and you may get fewer of them.
What is a Persian Violet?
Persian violet (Exacum affine), or Exacum Persian violet, is an attractive perennial with bluish or white star-shaped flowers and shiny green leaves. These plants can be grown indoors, but they also flourish outdoors in USDA plant hardiness zones 5-11. This violet is usually purchased in full bloom and the flowers are evenly spaced over a rounded ball of foliage. The Persian violet blooms for about three or four months; after that, it can be difficult to get it to bloom again. A good thought to have with this plant is to enjoy it while you can!
Growing Persian Violets Indoors
The care of Persian violet houseplants is relatively easy. The best thing to do is to buy a plant that has many unopened buds. This way, you will get to enjoy each blooming flower. The Persian violet loves bright light, but not direct light, so it would be best to keep the plant near a window. They enjoy cooler rooms and higher humidity. Doing this will keep the flowers blooming for three to four months. Keep the soil moist and be careful not to water it too much; this will cause rotting of the roots. Root rot is the most common problem with these plants. If it should happen, you will have to discard the plant. A sign that your Persian violet has root rot is wilting of the leaves. If you leave dried flowers on the plant, they will start to create seeds. Should this happen, it will shorten the life span of the plant. To avoid this, pop off the dead flower heads as soon as you notice them.
Persian Violet Plant Care After Blooming
Once your Persian violet has lost all its blooms and the foliage turns yellow, it is moving into the dormant stage. Stop watering the plant and place it in a cool room with moderate light. The leaves will eventually dry out. Complete drying takes approximately two months. When this happens, remove the tuber and transplant it in a pot that is one size bigger. Fill the pot with peat moss potting mixture and place the tuber in the soil so that the top half sticks out. Do not water the tuber until leaves appear next season. When you see new growth, place your Persian violet near a window. The plant should bloom again, but the flowers may be smaller and you may get fewer of them.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月19日
The peace lily is an ornamental plant generally sold for the home interior. It produces a white spathe or flower, which is forced by commercial growers to make it more appealing at market. Once the spathe is gone, you are left with lovely glossy green leaves, but what if you want that flower back. Often, a peace lily won’t flower no matter how you care for it. This can be frustrating but there is a very good reason for this condition.
Peace Lily Facts
Peace lilies are members of the same family as philodendrons, both of which are Aroids. They are very popular tropical houseplants. Peace lily’s flower is especially appealing set amongst the dark green leaves. It lasts for at least a month but then eventually fades and dies. A peace lily never flowers until it is mature. Professional growers know how to get a peace lily plant to bloom on command. They use a natural plant hormone to stimulate the plant into production.
It is not uncommon to find a peace lily not blooming, even when it is a healthy plant. They are native to the tropical Americas and found in dense forests where dappled sun is the chief source of light. They need humus rich soil and moderate moisture. The optimum growing conditions are between 65 and 86 degrees Fahrenheit (18-30 C). Warmer conditions encourage blooming. The white spathe is actually not the flower but a modified leaf that encloses the actual flowers, which are tiny and insignificant. A peace lily won’t flower unless it is moist and warm enough with gentle lighting.
When Do Peace Lilies Flower?
Peace lilies are sold with a flower or spathe. It is an attractive feature, rising up creamy white from the center of the arching sword-like foliage. They are forced to bloom with gibberellic acid, a natural plant hormone that stimulates cell division and elongation. The plants used to be raised to maturity and natural flowering before the appearance of gibberellic acid. The process could take up to a year before there were sellable plants. Your plant is usually not mature when it comes from a commercial grower today. That means it is not old enough to flower naturally. Additionally, site conditions need to be ideal and the plant needs to be fertilized. When do peace lilies flower? They naturally flower in spring or early summer.
How to Get a Peace Lily Plant to Bloom
Your best chance if your peace lily never flowers is to check that you are giving it the correct cultivation. It needs well-draining potting soil, rich in organic matter. Water the plant two or three times per week. It is bet to use distilled water, as these plants can be sensitive to some minerals and chemicals found in tap water. Try feeding your plant a balanced houseplant fertilizer every 2 to 3 months. Keep the plant in a low light situation out of direct sunlight, but bright enough you could read a book. Gradually move the plant to brighter light if it is in a very dark room. This could spur a peace lily not blooming to flower just by virtue of more candles of light.
Peace Lily Facts
Peace lilies are members of the same family as philodendrons, both of which are Aroids. They are very popular tropical houseplants. Peace lily’s flower is especially appealing set amongst the dark green leaves. It lasts for at least a month but then eventually fades and dies. A peace lily never flowers until it is mature. Professional growers know how to get a peace lily plant to bloom on command. They use a natural plant hormone to stimulate the plant into production.
It is not uncommon to find a peace lily not blooming, even when it is a healthy plant. They are native to the tropical Americas and found in dense forests where dappled sun is the chief source of light. They need humus rich soil and moderate moisture. The optimum growing conditions are between 65 and 86 degrees Fahrenheit (18-30 C). Warmer conditions encourage blooming. The white spathe is actually not the flower but a modified leaf that encloses the actual flowers, which are tiny and insignificant. A peace lily won’t flower unless it is moist and warm enough with gentle lighting.
When Do Peace Lilies Flower?
Peace lilies are sold with a flower or spathe. It is an attractive feature, rising up creamy white from the center of the arching sword-like foliage. They are forced to bloom with gibberellic acid, a natural plant hormone that stimulates cell division and elongation. The plants used to be raised to maturity and natural flowering before the appearance of gibberellic acid. The process could take up to a year before there were sellable plants. Your plant is usually not mature when it comes from a commercial grower today. That means it is not old enough to flower naturally. Additionally, site conditions need to be ideal and the plant needs to be fertilized. When do peace lilies flower? They naturally flower in spring or early summer.
How to Get a Peace Lily Plant to Bloom
Your best chance if your peace lily never flowers is to check that you are giving it the correct cultivation. It needs well-draining potting soil, rich in organic matter. Water the plant two or three times per week. It is bet to use distilled water, as these plants can be sensitive to some minerals and chemicals found in tap water. Try feeding your plant a balanced houseplant fertilizer every 2 to 3 months. Keep the plant in a low light situation out of direct sunlight, but bright enough you could read a book. Gradually move the plant to brighter light if it is in a very dark room. This could spur a peace lily not blooming to flower just by virtue of more candles of light.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月19日
Peace lily (Spathipnyllum) is happy when its roots are a little on the crowded side, but your plant will give you clear signals when it needs a little more space. Keep reading and we’ll give you the scoop on peace lily repotting.
Does My Peace Lily Need a New Pot?
Knowing when to repot a peace lily is important. If your plant is rootbound, it’s definitely time for repotting. For example, you may notice roots growing through the drainage hole or emerging on the surface of the soil. The easiest way to tell if your peace lily is rootbound is to slide the plant carefully from the pot so you can see the roots.
A severely rootbound plant is unable to absorb water because the roots are so tightly packed. The plant will wilt because even though you may water generously, liquid simply runs through the drainage hole. If your peace lily is severely rootbound, it’s best to repot as soon as possible. If your plant can wait a little longer, spring is the ideal time for repotting a peace lily.
Steps for Repotting Peace Lily Houseplants
Select a slightly larger pot with a diameter only 1 or 2 inches more than the current container. Avoid planting in a larger container, as the moisture retained in the excess potting soil may cause the roots to rot. Cover the drainage hole with a coffee filter or a small piece of mesh to keep potting mix from washing through the hole. Water the peace lily an hour or two before repotting. Place fresh potting mix in the container. Use just enough so that once repotted, the top of the plant’s root ball will be about ½ to 1 inch below the rim of the container. The goal is for the plant to sit at the same level it was situated in the old pot; burying the plant too deeply may cause the plant to rot. Slide the peace lily carefully from its current pot. Tease the rootball gently with your fingers to release the compacted roots. Place the peace lily in the new container. Fill in around the root ball with potting mix, then firm the mix gently with your fingers. Water lightly to settle the soil, and then add a little more potting soil, if needed. Again, it’s important to situate the plant at the same level it was planted in its old pot.
Place the peace lily in the new container. Fill in around the root ball with potting mix, then firm the mix gently with your fingers. Water lightly to settle the soil, and then add a little more potting soil, if needed. Again, it’s important to situate the plant at the same level it was planted in its old pot. Place the plant in a shady area for a couple of days. Don’t worry if the plant looks a little bedraggled for the first few days. Slight wilting often occurs when repotting peace lily houseplants. Withhold fertilizer for a couple of months after repotting a peace lily to give the plant time to settle into its new home. Note: Peace lily repotting is a perfect time to divide a mature plant into new, smaller plants. Once you’ve removed the plant from its old pot, remove offshoots carefully and plant each one into a small pot filled with fresh potting mix.
Does My Peace Lily Need a New Pot?
Knowing when to repot a peace lily is important. If your plant is rootbound, it’s definitely time for repotting. For example, you may notice roots growing through the drainage hole or emerging on the surface of the soil. The easiest way to tell if your peace lily is rootbound is to slide the plant carefully from the pot so you can see the roots.
A severely rootbound plant is unable to absorb water because the roots are so tightly packed. The plant will wilt because even though you may water generously, liquid simply runs through the drainage hole. If your peace lily is severely rootbound, it’s best to repot as soon as possible. If your plant can wait a little longer, spring is the ideal time for repotting a peace lily.
Steps for Repotting Peace Lily Houseplants
Select a slightly larger pot with a diameter only 1 or 2 inches more than the current container. Avoid planting in a larger container, as the moisture retained in the excess potting soil may cause the roots to rot. Cover the drainage hole with a coffee filter or a small piece of mesh to keep potting mix from washing through the hole. Water the peace lily an hour or two before repotting. Place fresh potting mix in the container. Use just enough so that once repotted, the top of the plant’s root ball will be about ½ to 1 inch below the rim of the container. The goal is for the plant to sit at the same level it was situated in the old pot; burying the plant too deeply may cause the plant to rot. Slide the peace lily carefully from its current pot. Tease the rootball gently with your fingers to release the compacted roots. Place the peace lily in the new container. Fill in around the root ball with potting mix, then firm the mix gently with your fingers. Water lightly to settle the soil, and then add a little more potting soil, if needed. Again, it’s important to situate the plant at the same level it was planted in its old pot.
Place the peace lily in the new container. Fill in around the root ball with potting mix, then firm the mix gently with your fingers. Water lightly to settle the soil, and then add a little more potting soil, if needed. Again, it’s important to situate the plant at the same level it was planted in its old pot. Place the plant in a shady area for a couple of days. Don’t worry if the plant looks a little bedraggled for the first few days. Slight wilting often occurs when repotting peace lily houseplants. Withhold fertilizer for a couple of months after repotting a peace lily to give the plant time to settle into its new home. Note: Peace lily repotting is a perfect time to divide a mature plant into new, smaller plants. Once you’ve removed the plant from its old pot, remove offshoots carefully and plant each one into a small pot filled with fresh potting mix.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月19日
Is peace lily toxic to cats? A lovely plant with lush, deep green leaves, peace lily (Spathiphyllum) is prized for its ability to survive nearly any indoor growing condition, including low light and neglect. Unfortunately, peace lily and cats are a bad combination, as peace lily is indeed toxic to cats (and dogs, too). Read on to learn more about peace lily toxicity.
Toxicity of Peace Lily Plants
According to Pet Poison Hotline, the cells of peace lily plants, also known as Mauna Loa plants, contain calcium oxalate crystals. When a cat chews or bites into the leaves or stems, the crystals are released and cause injury by penetrating the animal’s tissues. The damage can be extremely painful to the animal’s mouth, even if the plant isn’t ingested.
Fortunately, peace lily toxicity isn’t as great as that of other types of lilies, including Easter lily and Asiatic lilies. The Pet Poison Hotline says that peace lily, which isn’t a true lily, doesn’t cause damage to the kidneys and liver.
Toxicity of peace lily plants is considered mild to moderate, depending on the amount ingested. The ASPCA (American Society for the Prevention of Cruelty to Animals) lists signs of peace lily poisoning in cats as follows: Severe burning and irritation of the mouth, lips and tongue Difficulty swallowing Vomiting Excessive drooling and increased salivation To be safe, think twice before keeping or growing peace lilies if you share your home with a cat or dog.
Treating Peace Lily Poisoning in Cats
If you suspect your pet may have ingested peace lily, don’t panic, as your cat is unlikely to suffer long-term harm. Remove any chewed leaves from your cat’s mouth, and then wash the animal’s paws with cool water to remove any irritants. Never try to induce vomiting unless advised by your veterinarian, as you may unintentionally make matters worse.
Toxicity of Peace Lily Plants
According to Pet Poison Hotline, the cells of peace lily plants, also known as Mauna Loa plants, contain calcium oxalate crystals. When a cat chews or bites into the leaves or stems, the crystals are released and cause injury by penetrating the animal’s tissues. The damage can be extremely painful to the animal’s mouth, even if the plant isn’t ingested.
Fortunately, peace lily toxicity isn’t as great as that of other types of lilies, including Easter lily and Asiatic lilies. The Pet Poison Hotline says that peace lily, which isn’t a true lily, doesn’t cause damage to the kidneys and liver.
Toxicity of peace lily plants is considered mild to moderate, depending on the amount ingested. The ASPCA (American Society for the Prevention of Cruelty to Animals) lists signs of peace lily poisoning in cats as follows: Severe burning and irritation of the mouth, lips and tongue Difficulty swallowing Vomiting Excessive drooling and increased salivation To be safe, think twice before keeping or growing peace lilies if you share your home with a cat or dog.
Treating Peace Lily Poisoning in Cats
If you suspect your pet may have ingested peace lily, don’t panic, as your cat is unlikely to suffer long-term harm. Remove any chewed leaves from your cat’s mouth, and then wash the animal’s paws with cool water to remove any irritants. Never try to induce vomiting unless advised by your veterinarian, as you may unintentionally make matters worse.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月19日
Growing peace lily in an aquarium is an unusual, exotic way to display this deep green, leafy plant. Although you can grow peace lily aquarium plants without fish, many people like to add a betta fish to the aquarium, which makes the underwater environment even more colorful. Read on to learn how to grow peace lilies in fish tanks and aquariums.
Growing Peace Lily in an Aquarium or Container
Select a wide-based aquarium that holds at least a quart of water. Clear glass is best, especially if you plan to add a betta fish. Pet stores sell inexpensive goldfish bowls that work very well. Rinse the container thoroughly, but don’t use soap.
Select a small to medium-size peace lily with a healthy root system. Be sure the diameter of the peace lily is smaller than the opening of the container. If the opening of the aquarium is too crowded, the plant may not receive enough air. You’ll also need a plastic plant tray; craft knife or scissors; decorative rock, pebbles or aquarium gravel; a jug of distilled water; large bucket and a betta fish, if you choose. You may also want to add figurines or other decorative accessories.
How to Grow Peace Lilies in Fish Tanks or Aquariums
The first step is to create a lid from the plastic plant tray, as this will serve as a support for the peace lily. Use a sharp craft knife or scissors to trim the plant tray (or similar object) so that it fits snugly into the opening without falling through. Cut a hole in the center of the plastic. The hole should be about the size of a quarter, but probably no larger than a silver dollar, depending on the size of the root mass. Rinse the decorative rocks or gravel thoroughly (again, no soap) and arrange them in the bottom of the aquarium or fish tank. Pour room temperature distilled water into the aquarium, up to about 2 inches from the rim. (You can also use tap water, but be sure to add a water de-chlorinator, which you can purchase at pet stores.) Remove the soil from the roots of the peace lily. Although you can do this in the sink, the easiest method is to fill a large bucket with water, then swish the roots of the lily gently through the water until ALL of the soil is removed. Once the soil has been removed, trim the roots neatly and evenly so they don’t touch the bottom of the aquarium. Feed the roots through the plastic “lid” with the peace lily plant resting on the top and the roots below. (This is where you will add a betta fish, if you choose to do so.) Insert the lid into the fish bowl or aquarium, with the roots dangling into the water.
Care of Peace Lily in Aquariums
Place the aquarium where the peace lily is exposed to low light, such as under a fluorescent light or near a north- or east-facing window. Change one-quarter of the water every week to keep it clear and clean, especially if you decide to add a fish. Avoid flake food, which will cloud the water very quickly. Remove the fish, clean the tank and fill it with fresh water whenever it begins to look brackish – usually every couple of weeks.
Growing Peace Lily in an Aquarium or Container
Select a wide-based aquarium that holds at least a quart of water. Clear glass is best, especially if you plan to add a betta fish. Pet stores sell inexpensive goldfish bowls that work very well. Rinse the container thoroughly, but don’t use soap.
Select a small to medium-size peace lily with a healthy root system. Be sure the diameter of the peace lily is smaller than the opening of the container. If the opening of the aquarium is too crowded, the plant may not receive enough air. You’ll also need a plastic plant tray; craft knife or scissors; decorative rock, pebbles or aquarium gravel; a jug of distilled water; large bucket and a betta fish, if you choose. You may also want to add figurines or other decorative accessories.
How to Grow Peace Lilies in Fish Tanks or Aquariums
The first step is to create a lid from the plastic plant tray, as this will serve as a support for the peace lily. Use a sharp craft knife or scissors to trim the plant tray (or similar object) so that it fits snugly into the opening without falling through. Cut a hole in the center of the plastic. The hole should be about the size of a quarter, but probably no larger than a silver dollar, depending on the size of the root mass. Rinse the decorative rocks or gravel thoroughly (again, no soap) and arrange them in the bottom of the aquarium or fish tank. Pour room temperature distilled water into the aquarium, up to about 2 inches from the rim. (You can also use tap water, but be sure to add a water de-chlorinator, which you can purchase at pet stores.) Remove the soil from the roots of the peace lily. Although you can do this in the sink, the easiest method is to fill a large bucket with water, then swish the roots of the lily gently through the water until ALL of the soil is removed. Once the soil has been removed, trim the roots neatly and evenly so they don’t touch the bottom of the aquarium. Feed the roots through the plastic “lid” with the peace lily plant resting on the top and the roots below. (This is where you will add a betta fish, if you choose to do so.) Insert the lid into the fish bowl or aquarium, with the roots dangling into the water.
Care of Peace Lily in Aquariums
Place the aquarium where the peace lily is exposed to low light, such as under a fluorescent light or near a north- or east-facing window. Change one-quarter of the water every week to keep it clear and clean, especially if you decide to add a fish. Avoid flake food, which will cloud the water very quickly. Remove the fish, clean the tank and fill it with fresh water whenever it begins to look brackish – usually every couple of weeks.
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